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2nd COPY,
WORKS OF
PROFESSOR ALFRED
G,
COMPTON
PUBLISHED BY
to
Working.
The Speed-lathe.
Being Part
cloth.
I
of
i2mo,
ADVANCED METAL-WORK.
LESSONS ON THE SPEED-LATHE, ENGINELATHE, AND PLANING-MACHINE.
FOB THE USE OF TECHNICAL SCHOOLS, MANUAL-TRAINING SCHOOLS,
AND AMATEURS.
IN THREE PARTS.
PART
I.
THE SPEED-LATHE.
BY
ALFRED
JAMES
H.
G.
COMPTON
AND
DE &ROODT.
FIRST EDITION.
FIRST THOUSAND.
Limited,
nr
213
Copyright,
1898,
BY
A. G.
COMPTON
AND
J.
H.
DE GROODT.
REC:
DEC221g98
'
))
Q/
V^
^
rs
/^
cl
PREFACE.
The lessons
in lathe- work
which an experience of
course in
City of
this
New
is
York.
The mechanical
college
and leading to the degree of Bachelor of Sciences. To the workshop and the laboratory is given an average of four hours a week throughout the five years. These lessons represent the work of the sophomore year, four hours a week, and the junior year, three hours a week, or, deducting holidays, about two hundred and thirty-eight hours in all. The
character, like the other courses,
imparting
facility, are
performed by
all
the stu-
a few are
divided
among them
* la Part
in such a
I,
way
that
and 36
iU
iv
PBEFAGE,
how-
being,
in
such
cases,
by all. The lessons represent, therefore, about what a student who has had good training
stood
in
While these
be
able, in
most
cases, to
if
he
The authors
which a
is
only a part^
and not even the most valuable part, of the training which the workshop and laboratory can give the power of intelligent reading and of accurate and orderly description is equally important, and
so
is
the
power
These powers
help to impart.
is
may
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
PAGE
Preface
LESSON
iii
Parts of the Lathe. Care and Management of THE Lathe and Tools Calculating the Speed.. II. Starting and Stopping. Centring and Mounting Work. Plain Turning III. with the Gouge IV. Turning Concave and Convex Surfaces with the
I,
10
14 23
Chisel
Chuck work
32 43
58
IX.
X.
XI.
XII.
XIII.
Wood-turning. Gouge-work Oval Turning Metal-spinning and Burnishing Special Tools and Appliances Underhand Cutting with the Gouge The Compound Best
90 98
102 108 113
123
131
Alphabetical Index
V
ADYANCED METAL-WORK.
PART
LESSON
I.
PAKTS OF THE LATHE. CAEE AND MANAGEMENT OF THE LATHE AND TOOLS.
As you
Parts of lathe.
is
the spur-
At your right
is
H^ the tail-pin I^ and the handle J of the spindle-screw, which moves the dead-spindle in or out. Between the head-stock and the tail-stock
dead-spindle
is
rests.
and
parallel guides,
is
To
THE 8PEED-LATEB.
0, holding
it fixed,
loosened,
pleasure.
should be wiped
clean
after
using.
on the
belt
nicked.
The
must be
kept
and
free
this
from twist
it
To
work
and
in
care of the
^i*-
should be
to keep
carefully
folded
in
such a
it is
way
When
use
found
The smooth
side
is
the side
on which the hair was. In the process of tanning the skin and removing the hair, and thus converting
the skin into leather, the oily substance at the root
of each hair
is
or holes. If this
which
is
these
is
with greater
more
around a small pulley and made to touch its whole width, and it Avill transmit more power before slipping. With the rough or flesh
easily curved
h,
the
reverse
is
true
Above
the lathe
is
a counter-shaft
which receives
THE SPEED-LATHE.
motion from the main shaft. On the main shaft is fixed a pulley, and on the counter-shaft are two, each of half the width of this one. Examining
Fig.
2.
mounted
find
model in a convenient place, you will that one of the two pulleys is firmly attached
as a
to the counter-shaft
is loose, Shafts and
pulleys.
by
so that
main shaft
to the
is
on
it
and counter-shaft and you will find them "crowned," or the surfaces high in the middle.
a pulley revolves the centrifugal force tends
is
When
to
on
it,
as
you have
Thus
a small
revolves creeps
up from
When
the surface of a
made curved
running side by side would, thus keeping the belt at the middle of
two
belts
the pulley.
have
flat
faces,
while
of
"
it
lathes,
faces.
The
all
crowning
wrong, since
belts
were
perfect.
Both centres
spindles.
are frequently
live-spindle
.
The
its
T
often
hole
whole lensrth, and in Exercise 1. M this case the centre is easily removed Removing by passing through the hole a piece of ^^^ repiac^^^' round iron and driving the centre out *"^ ^^^ by gentle blows of the hammer. The deadcentre or tail-centre is sometimes removed by
bored throusrh
the
action
of
the
tail-
screw.
inserted, the
Fig.
3.
contact
it
with
the
base
of
the
centre
and
last,
pushes
out.
Both
in this case
and in the
THE 8PEED-LAT3E.
it is
pressure or blows,
enlarged.
It
likely to
become upset or
for a
in.
small part of
at
the end, a
it
little
fit
smaller, so that
thus enlarged
may
The
not
through
steel
perpendicular to
its axis
into
which a
re-
It
is
then easily
moved by turning
no special centre, whether live or dead, a copper hammer (not a steel one) should be held under it, and then with a hammer and drift or dull chisel it should be jarred loose by gentle taps against its
shoulder.
There
is
but one correct way of inserting a cenFirst see that the centre
and and if
remove them with an old smooth file. Put the centre into the hole and push and turn it in Driving the centre its place, but never drive it. is apt to make it hold so tight that blows are required to remove it, and both actions are
likely to injure the
lathe.
A
;
chalk-line
drawn
keep
is
VII on Engine-lathe
the
dead-spindle
it
Work.
To
prevent
injury
to
tail-
necessary to allow
easily.
Exercise 2
Setting the
*^*^-s*^^-
work
as
To
set
back
it
will go,
stock up
work
as
you hold it between the centres with your left hand now screw the spindle out, and the centre, pressing against the work, will push the stock back along the shears let the stock go back thus till you have room enough to allow of taking the work out and putting it back easily, and fasten
;
The
tail-
stock and
Fig.
4.
spline or
side, into
which a
feather or pin
fitted.
To move
this spindle
THE SPEED-LATHE.
is
there
is
It
supported and held in place by a beariog B, screwed fast to the end of the tail-stock. This
screw turns in a corresponding brass nut C in one end of the spindle, which is made hollow and has
a conical or taper hole in one end for the insertion
of the dead-centre,
in
The thread on
the screw
may be
either right- or
it is
spindle forward
if
it
evident that
is
a left-handed one
the nut
must move forward on the screw, whereas if it were right-handed the reverse would happen, the spindle would be drawn backward and the work loosened between centres. In some lathes, however, the right-handed screw
is
Besides being
which would move the centre twice as far for the same number of turns of the handle as a single thread would, without materially weakening the
60 degrees and the depth of an ordinary square one is about equal to its width, it is evident that if the pitch is a coarse one the thread will be correspondingly deep. For example, if it is desired to
screw.
As
V thread
is
the spindle \ of an inch for ever)' turn of the handle, and the diameter
move
of
the screw
is
thread having a pitch of \ in. will reduce the diameter of the core or bottom of the thread to \
K.,.^__
Fig.
5.
of an inch, w^hich
is
shown
in the figure.
many
spised.
not to be de-
10
THE 8PEEB-LATEE.
LESSON
STARTII^G
11.
AND STOPPING.
In starting the lathe the belt should be run gradually, not suddenly, from the loose to the
tight
Exercise
3.
pulley.
it
If
it
is
shifted
too
quickly
will slip
which
is
more troublesome,
pulley altogether.
To
lathe-belt
Exercise
^gj^^
4.
which causes the belt to run faster, and from a larger to a smaller step on the lathe-cone. The latter change of course
step
on
the
counter-shaft,
must be made
posite changes
first.
To
must be made.
speed
Practise the
two
left
changes successively.
First, to increase the
:
Holding the
left
push the belt with the right hand so as to guide it off from the large step of the cone to the small one. (The holding of the left hand as directed has for its object to prevent
11
left,
which
it
might cause
be caught in the gear-wheel and injured. Though this danger does not exist in the case of the speed-lathe, it is important to form the correct
to
The
belt
is
now
slack,
and of the
lathe-cone.
It is
now
to be shifted to
To accomplish
Removing
this
belt
forward with
it
hand, stretching
little.
hand quickly, you will allow the belt to spriug back by its elasticity, and at this moment, giving it a push or throw with the right hand, you will guide it on to the larger step on the cone of the counter-shaft. It will require some The practice to get facility in this movement. reverse operation, first on the counter-shaft and then on the cone, will reduce the speed. Measure the diameters, first, of the drivingpulley of the engine and the driven pulley on the main shaft second, of the driving- Exercise 5. pulley on the main shaft and the Calculating *^sp^" driven pulley on the counter-shaft;
;
third,
the
driving-cone
on the counter-shaft and the corresponding steps on the lathe-cone. Then, counting the number of
revolutions per minute of the engine, either
by the
eye or by the
ear, or
by
a so-called tachometer or
12
THE SPEED-LATHE.
:
speed-counter, determine
shaft
;
first,
the speed of
;
tlie
third, that
completed you
the tachometer.
may
The measured and the calculated results should They will not agree exactly, first, nearly agree.
because of small errors in the measurements of the
and second, because the belts always slip to some extent on the pulleys, making the driven pulley run less rapidly than the calculation would indicate.
several diameters,
measured so as to include one half the thickness of the belt which is around the pulley or cone. The
diameter of the pulley plus one thickness of the
belt will give the correct result.
Some
fast-run-
have the speed at which they should be run stamped on the machine in
engine-governors,
etc., etc.,
plain sight.
Now, knowing
sizes
of the pulleys
is
When
added
to each j)ulley,
as,
13
on the counter-shaft, the proportion is changed the driving-pulley would now be 8^" instead of 8", and the driven pulley 4^" instead of 4". One
:
pulley would
or
now be
i|- of
|,
1^1^, which would make on a machine at a speed of 500 revolutions, a difference of about 9 revolu-
14
THE SPEED-LATHE.
LESSON
III.
Cut
off
a piece
of
tlie
2 J" square.
Exercise
6.
Find
intersection
two
diagonals,
and
mount^g^^
per hammer.
a cylinder 2" in diameter
From
by the
turn
You
five
tools
chisels,
two gouges, large and small two large and small and a square-nose or part:
ing tool.
with their handles under the bed of the lathe and their cutting edges far enough out to be seen as
you stand
up
To mount
work
by
will go
hold the
QOJJGB.
15
it
and move
tlie tail-stock
up
to
till
end
of the piece
and holds
tail-stock,
it
loosely.
Now,
before
fastening
so as to
the
turn
the
centre-screw
push the centre forward against the work, thus pushing the tail-stock back, till there is room enough to allow of removing the work by screwing the centre back without moving the stock, and not
much
is
more.
it
than
necessary
to
work
stock
bend or " spring," and cause the chatter and turn rough. Clamp the tailwill
chisel are very
fast.
cor-
form of
the
wood-turner's
from those of the carpenter: the bevel of the gouge is on the convex
^), while that of the carpenter's paring-gouge is on the concave side (Fig. 6, ^), and The the turner's chisel is bevelled on both sides.
side (Fig.
6,
edge also
penter's
is
differently shaped
is
gouge
gouge
is
is
curved
analogous to
16
TEE 8PEEDLATHE.
is
the former
and would
The
cutting edge
B
Fig.
6.
is
pendicular to
it,
The
depends on the kind of wood to be worked, and may be about the same as in the carpenter's tools.
11
The
is
piece of
the
At
Any
Plain turning.
excess of pres-
undue friction on the shoulders of the journal and face of the bearings, with heating
sure will cause
and
when
the
rapid
wear.
the
Set
the
rest
work and
so that
the
cutting
centre,
the
gouge lies on the rest edge shall be above Do not hold the gouge
lar to the length of the
perpendicu-
o r
(as
shown
in
obliquely (as
position
Fig. 8).
In this
all
you
edge
Fig.
7.
the
with
flying
its
on the
the handle
swung
piece
it
18
left,
THE SPEED-LATHE.
taking
off
all
along
Cany
You
left to right in
left,
keeping the
concave
to
side
right,
of the tool
the
it
and propelthe
ling
hand
from to t h e
at
left
right hand,
Kun
speed,
in
a
this
moderate
case
the
wnll
cone
along
to
steadily
from
Fig.
8.
left
right,
till
take
successive
cuts
the corners
are
all
turned
off
and the
as,
piece
is
approximately cylindrical.
first
The
if
cut
]gQust
be made cautiously,
so,
while
the piece
is
square or nearly
there
is
danger,
by
the
19
the corners,
You
must stop occasionally and test the work, and take up any play which may have resulted from the
w^earing
away
or compression
of the
wood
at
work
be turned true, or it may even fall out. After you have become a little accustomed to the handling of the tool you should keep your eye on the work rather than on the cutting edge of the tool just
wood. As in forge-work, so in wood-turning you must learn to work by eye measurement. Turn the piece down to as near 2'^ as you can by eye before using the calipers. Then face off the end with the chisel, holding it flat on the rest, perpendicular to the axis of the piece, and with the long side towards the piece. Push the chisel down towards the centre, cutting off enough to make the work run true. We now call the work approxi-' mately true and balanced, and it will now be safe to change to a higher speed before finishing. point of the utmost importance in turning is to use only properly ground and sharpened tools. It will be worth while to try for once to work with improperly ground tools, so as to impress this thoroughly on your mind. After such experiments
as
in chipping metal or chiselling
you do
20
THE SPEED-LATHE.
likely to
tliat in
your work is true and pai'allel finish it smooth with the chisel. The chisel, like the smoothChisel. ing-plane in carpentry and the flatter All work in forge-work, is only a finishing-tool.
When
Fm.
9.
should be prepared and brought near to a finish with the gouge, after which the chisel, if in proper
condition and properly used, will finish the better than you can do it with sandpaper.
work The
OOXTGE.
21
as the
held in about
tlie
same position
9.
gouge, with
will cut
In this position
and polish at the s.ame time. The short side should lie on the rest, the long side or acute angle being turned towards the right, and the handle swung horizontally to the right. All Give carethese points are shown in the figure.
is
held thus,
and
to
firmly,
it
and dig
two tools till you are able turn very near to size, smooth and parallel, with
the pieces of
From
cises
work
left in
and
the
Taper turning.
fac-
Bring the cutting edge carefully against the piece at A^ Fig. 10, about from the tail-centre end, and move it along steadily from left to right. Carry the gouge back again and takeanotlier cut;
till
the piece of
work
for
about I" of
diameter.
straight
its
length
in the
is
Now
and
true,
22
THE 8PEBDLATHE.
etc.,
D,
tlie
taking successive
cuts
downwards from
Finish the
Fig. 10.
surface
exercise.
chisel,
as in
the last
LESSON
IV.
Cut
2|^"
off
wood 8" x
2y
in the figure.
Fig. 11.
Mark
is
off
the
at rest,
9.
mark with
^
the
"-'
Exercise
curved
*^"-
sur-
work
at the
faces to pat-
convex
a, a,
surfaces or
made
at
^,
h,
not to be cut
down
at the ends.
Turn
fillets
24
alone.
THE SPEED-LATHE,
(The gonge
is is
of the lesson
cnisel.
After this
accomplished
it
that better
work can be done than with the gouge and more quickly.) In doing this you will appreciate the advantage of having learned to work
with your eye fixed on the surface to be cut rather than on the cutting-tool. The convex surfaces
To
on the
tee of the
rest, as
~~~^
I.
.*'-
-'%. jk
Fig. 12.
in Fig.
1 2,
the handle
swung round
to the left
and
little raised,
25
it
af.
the heel
the
middle of the bead A, Fig. 11. Turn the chisel gradually up on the short edge af until its plane or face /^ is nearly vertical, and at the same time swing the handle to the right and upward, which
Fm.
13.
work
13.
to the left
bead is cut by similar but reverse motions. That is, you will stand in the same position, but with the handle of the tool (in the same hand) swung round to the right in-
The other
half ce of the
stead of
26
THE SPEED-LATHE.
and slightly
12.
raised,
while the
the chisel
fiat,
resting on the
short edge
a'f'j
Then turn
towards
left
the
and upheel
of
ward, making
the
the tool
move
toward
right
the
and
takes
downward,
till
it
again
position
left to
right
to
Fig. 14.
the
left.
The importance
ciated in
underhand cutting
is
It is
obvious
hand
that
hand
or to pick
up
doing which
it is
To
chisel alone,
h,
hi
to cut bl.
For the
short
first,
begin with
edge or right=
hand corner
af^
eceh V 1 t III
A
I
^
I
v'
V
I
r^O
.LA_A^
Fig. 15.
towards the right, and the handle swung round towards the left. As
but inclined over a
little
edge more and more from the vertical towards the right, and
the tool cuts, tui'u the cutting
by
the
is
reached, the
28
to
THE SPEED-LATHE,
In cutting h'l the the work, as in Fig. 16. plane of the edge of the chisel inclines increasthe
left,
ingly towards
is
swung
far to
the
>
' I
! I
Mill
1 1 I
II
I
iSrN
.^\ V'--^^,K.K>,
Fig. 16.
nearly perpendicular,
In
finish-
ing up remove the ridge that will form in the middle by going over the surfaces lightly with the middle part of the edge (and not with the heel)
passing a
little
of the
fillet,
and symmetrical. Your ability to do good work on this exercise depends upon having sharp and properly ground tools. The heel does
polishes.
and
If
in
you
wood with
a cut-
In turning the curved surfaces of the bead and the hollow the heel or obtuse corner of the chisel is the cutting one, while in turning down a side
face
it
is
is
used, tilted a
Fig. 17.
little as
shown
in Fig. 17.
This angle
off
is
almost
but
if
30
THE SPEED-LATHE.
it is
square surface
apt to
make
work wavy.
For practice with the tools, and to train the eye and learn the behavior of different kinds of
wood, repeat the nut or cherry.
last exercise
To
file
Exercise 8 (a
taper plug).
Work
eye,
and copy by
ments.
After your
difficulty
last exercise
in
finishing
oif
this
with the
chisel.
a,
First
mark
the
d, as in
the
fio-ure.
Fig. 18.
With the acute angle of the large chisel cut well down into the work at c and 4 slightly at , and make only a light mark at b. Place the point
the
work
at
h,
little
mark,
and cut out part of the fillet he down to the Next round off the end, cutting down notch c. to the notch c/, a task very much the same as When cutting from that of turning the bead. left to right do not change hands, but, as before, hold the handle in your right hand and the blade of the tool in your left, as when cutting from right The reasons for this have been given to left. Now with the heel placed to the left of before. c cut from left to right, shaping and connecting the two surfaces at c. It is possible to turn out a perfect form at once
without these auxiliary cuts
least at
parts.
first,
;
but
it is
better, at
Make
if
necessary,
and repeat the operation until the convex and con= cave surfaces are gradually brought down to the This will desired shape and proper dimensions. give more practice for the chisel and eye, which
at this stage is
very important.
is
The
small end
be finished
exercise.
32
THE SPEED-LATHE.
LESSON
V,
CHUCK-WORK.
It
is
Exercise 11.
diameter of
cross-
A ring.
Glue together two pieces of pine each f " thick and ^\" square. Remove the live-centre and put a small piece of waste in the hole of the spindle Screw on the face-plate, to keep out the dust.
iSrst
and the
clean.
The
it
on with
will
do so
if
the face-plate approaches the shoulder of the spindle, bring it up into contact carefully
As
and without using undue force. If it is jammed too tight it will be difficult to remove it without injuring the lathe, and besides the thread of the plate may ride up on that of the spindle and one
or both be damaged.
up into
close contact.
CHUCK-WOBK.
33
when
little
Holding the
chisel flat
on the
rest,
Fig. 19.
toward the
right, turn
down
is,
-that
to a diameter of
3"-
long edge
be towards the
'
that
Now
34
THE SPBBD-LATHE.
and
at the
same height
as
and with the parting-tool placed y^-g-" to the left of the face of the piece and perpendicular to the length of the lathe cut in about f " deep.
You
is
much
tool
when
it
circle or to
make a
of the tool.
is
may make
cut a
tool,
which
will lessen
You
drawing the temper of the tool, which you may easily do if you force it too much. If this does happen it will be necessary to re temper the tool. You have now turned the outside and inside diameters and the thickness of the ring to within Shape and finish it with the Yg-" of its true size. chisel and sand-paper. In doing this it is obvious that you cannot cut with the chisel, as you did in forming the file-handle, for instance. In that case
speed, so as
wood
it is
be used
edge on
now
with
its
CHUCK-WORK.
the
rest,
85
and with its length perpendicular to the surface which is being cut; the direction of the motion of the revolving; wood
but with
its flat face,
is
tool,
as in
Exercise 10.
After turning as
piece off
chisel
much and
by running the
parting-tool
or
small
through at h in the figure, meeting the channel a, and the ring will then drop off on to the tool and will have a nearly circular cross-section. To finish it you must use a " chuck " made from Before doing a piece of 1" pine about 5" square.
this face off the
and glue to it a piece of cherry, maple, or other hard wood, 3J" square and about f" thick, from which to turn another ring. While this is drying make the chuck and finish
before taking
it
the ring.
Fasten the piece for the chuck to the face-plate as you did the piece Just used and turn it to a circular form, leaving
it
as large as
it
will hold.
Cut
just large
enough to hold the ring firmly, but not so tight that you will run the risk of breaking the ring The bottom of the chuck and the in forcing it in. cylindrical surface must be turned perfectly true.
36
THE SPEED-LATHE.
In chucking work, and also in reversing
it
in
pushed in till it bears firmly all round against the bottom of the recess. Then, usin^y the chisel as a Exercise 12. scrapcr and cutting very lightly, finish Making a chuck. the ring, and smooth it with fine sandpaper. It can be removed and reversed any number of times without impairing the accuracy of the work provided the chuck
the chuck,
sure that
it
make
is
is
perfectly true.
To
familiarize
different
piece of
the last
woods under the chisel, turn, from the maple already prepared, a duplicate of exercise by eye.
Cut off a piece of black walnut about 8" long and 2^" square. Mount it and turn it to the larerest possible diameter. Face off ^ Exercise 13. Hollow work, oiic end either plane or very slightly A vase or coucave, but Certainly not convex. Bore this end and fit it to the faceplate. The end being square, the piece should run
.
neverthe-
can in
rough out and do all you such cases between face-plate and centre.
is
The work
now balanced.
Remove
the tail-stock
and bore the cylindrical cavity as in the last exercise, roughing it out with the small chisel. Before doing this make a mark upon the chisel at a distance from the point equal to the depth of the
CHUCK-WORK.
required hollow.
chisel until the
37
mark on
of the work.
later,
can be bored
not without
skilful, as
gouge,
is
but very
the
and be jerked from the hand. Make a number of cuts, Fig. 20, each cut being sue-
38
THE SPESD-LATHE.
Fig. 21.
made
for
file
flat
ground down thin at the cutting edge. As this is your first attempt at hollow or inside
cutting,
it is
well to finish
all
Fm.
fore
23.
commencing work on the outer portion, as the work is more firm and is not so apt to chatter and snap off as it would be after having been partly
CHUCK- WORK.
turned on the outside.
side of the
39
off
In rounding
the out-
cup the
If
used as a cut-
is
Now
ing
it
to
is
make
its
own
piece
revolving.
Clamp
fast,
Fig. 33.
work between
the outside as
face-plate
finish
First
mark
and the base c and Cj as in the filehandle exercise. Using the acute edge of the large
^,
bowl
chisel, insert
down
into the
work
making a notch as shown in the figure, and pare or cut down and partly round it off as in the
at
by
last exercise.
cut
With the acute angle make another and pare down to it. Repeat the operation
bowl is nearly completed, turn to the true dimensions, and make the thin portion of the inside
until the
'
40
of the
THE SPEED-LATHE.
bowl
at
with the small gouge and chisel, finishing the fillets and beads with the special tools. Finish the stem and all the curved parts nearest the bowl first and
first
Rough
M
b
'I'
1
'^-
Vf-t-.
I
I
I
cnt,.
\
Ocni,
w
Fig. 24.
^SS"
Sciir.
-~^
'~~
gradually
in
work toward
the
base
of
the
cup
stem-
let
the chisel
especially in w^orking
is
h.
A dull tool
ever ready to
and should not be used. In an exercise of this kind when the desisfn is more complicated, with many curves of different do
this
radii,
several special
tools are
necessary, called
pattern-maker's tools.
They
are all
made
in the
CHUCK- WOBK.
41
just used
are
roughing
For further practice in such work as the last, abundance of time, the following if there is variations may be made Pieces of _ Sxercise 14. maple, cherry, and other woods being a broad vase
:
.
or card-re-
and one of the pieces being exactly central, so that the colors shall be symmetrically arranged, a In pleasing variety of effect will be obtained.
this
way
may be
with
made by
the
card-receiver, a vase
broad and shallow bowl, may be turned. Centre the piece exactly at the middle of one of the colored pieces and, between centres, turn to
the largest possible cylinder. If the piece has been
correctly centred,
Face off the end, boi*e it and fit it to the face-plate, and then at a low speed and with a light cut turn the outside true. When it is quite true and perfectly balanced, run at a higher speed and turn the cavity for the base, which should be slightly concave, and bore and fit this end to the face-plate. Now cut out the top and finish it to the shape and size given iix
symmetrical.
42
THE SPEED-LATHE.
Kough
the
work between
size,
breaking, but
altogether.
be taken to
to
For the same reason great care must use sharp tools and light cuts, and
of the operations of
make
For repetition
Exercise 15. An egg or an
9, 10,
Exercises
egg-
shaped solid, an Indian club, and other ^^q\ objccts may, if time allows, be made from plain bard wood or from colored w^oods glued together. The work should always be
Indian club.
done from drawings, and should be exact to measThese exercises involve no new princiurement. ples and are not necessary, except for the purpose of acquiring quickness and precision.
"
PATTERN-MAKING.
43
LESSON
VI.
PATTERN^-MAKING.
The
cast-
is
to be made, the
bench
a cast-
making
ing from
and the process of finishing the casting to its proper form and dimensions. This knowledge your previous exercises have already furnished, and you have now to apply it. You remember that wood shrinks and warps, and you will endeavor to prevent this, or to counit,
teract
effect
You
it
to
give
the greatest
possible
strength.
As
the sand
is to
be packed closely
it
round
it,
or inclination of
sides to allow
be
easily
44:
THE 8PEED-LATHE.
removed from the mould. As the metal will shrink in cooling, you must make the proper allowance for this in designing the pattern. Finally, as the casting will have to be finished up, allowance must be made also for the loss of size in the
process of finishing.
which enters deeply into the mould or flask a draught of |" or J" to the foot is given. The allowance for shrinkage of the metal depends very much upon the shape and the size of the pattern. The shrinkage is the greatest where there is the greatest amount of metal. It is found in practice that in all patterns about 4" or less in any direction no allowance need be
one,
made
necessary to
the
mould enough
of the pattern.
to
make up
Above
this size,
however, the
cast-
The
foot,
usual allowance
contraction of
and for brass ^" per foot and over, as you have learned in your course in moulding. First glue up and turn a simple cylinder pat-
PATTEBN-MAKINQ.
tern for a casting wLicli
is
45
be turned and finished to a diameter of 3f " and a Exercise i6 length of 8". Make the proper al- a pattern for lowance for shrinkage, and for turning ^ cylinder, in the metal lathe. The size then for the pattern will be diameter, 3f ", plus ^" per foot for shrinkage,
to
:
plus ^" for the surface, or 3J"; length, 8"^ plus /' per foot, plus J", or 8f I"'
Cut
find
off
V X 4" X 10".
Test
if
you
them straight glue them together making two pieces 2" X 4" X 10".
in twos,
To do
before
it
the glue
is
of the proper
consistency
is
it is
in proper condition.
This
is
a very
The room
and the pieces should be heated. You have learned from your soldering and welding exercises that the closer metal and metal are brought together the stronger will be the joint, and the same is true in glueing the closer the pieces are brought together by rubbing and press-
ing out
all
it is
in
proper con-
Glue and
This pattern
to be
is
composed
of
two
halves,
moulded
in a two-part flask
46
THE SPEED-LATHE.
aa shows the division of the pattern. Ghie the pieces together, but at the end only, for about \" of their length, and you will then have a The parting-line piece 4" square and 10" long.
line
The
when
the pattern
is
Fig. 35.
be exact semi-cylinders. In large work (and it will be safer in this case) clamps are fastened to the ends of the pieces to hold them together. Fasten to the ends the washers, h, h^ provided for the purpose, with the hole enlarged to admit the
shall
centres.
is apt,
from a
break apart. It is not necessary, however, to use them in very small work. After turning the piece to the proper diameter (31 ''_^ 1" per foot i" = 3|")> before separating the pieces, bore and fit two dowel-pins, one at each end. The length of the piece is now 2" too
great.
PATTERN-MAKINO.
47
boring through the bottom half h. The object in fitting one dowel-pin nearer the end than the other
is
together
turned.
in
If
the
position
in
the
der.
mould they might not form a perfect cylinMark and cut off the pins, which should fit
place.
oi'
With
the
amount
8f ",
necessary, from
each end to
make
the pattern
Fig. 26.
giving
at each
it
This waste
end will remove the holes made by the screws to fasten on the washers, and also the part in the line aa of division which has been glued. When these ends are cut off with the back-saw
the parts of the pattern will easily separate.
If
48
THE SPEED-LATHE.
find,
you
a
fit
little
with sandpaper.
They should
easy,
when
it is
dry
it
will be
Next turn a pattern for a simple hollow cylinder 4" long and 4" in diameter. The casting from
Exercise
a
17.
this pattern is to
ercise
be used as an exlathe,
hoHow^
on the metal
and
to
be
cylinder.
finished all
and
bored.
Allowance must be made for shrinkage as in the last exercise, and also for the turning and finishing up of the casting to the given di=
mensions.
As
the cylinder
is
to
it,
To do
this,
form a part of the pattern, they will not be a part of the casting, and they are generally distinguished from the pattern
core-prints ^4,
While the
49
They
are
added to
tlie
form an impression
which the core (the exact size of the print) can be laid and supported in the mould. the space round the core is the core and into which the metal flows and thus forms the cast-
BB
50
THE SPEED-LATHE.
.Z
05
^
^rl
S/
\%l-
PA TTEEN-MAKING.
length given in the drawing,
Fig.
51
29
(which
Fm.
30.
Allowance for shrinkage and the tool is made in the same way As there is to be no turnfor the steam-chest A. ing of the metal between the flanges, no allowance
age, plus the allowance for the tool.
52
need be made
is
The
shown in Fig. 30, omitting the core-prints at JD. The dimensions must be found, from those given in Fig. 29, by adding the proper
allowances.
First, glue
up and
shown
31,
a for the
flanges.
fit
PA TTEBN-MAKING.
face-plate witli screws, taking
53
line
drawn through
Fig. 32.
half,
up
to
the
edge of the
first
piece.
It will then be
ready
1''
for turning.
Turn the
outside
larger
diameter
make
Fig. 38.
width of the grooves aa in the cylinder. Be sure the face is square with the inside diameter before removing the pieces from
the face-plate.
The
when compared.
If the pieces are square
and
true,
remove them
54
TBB SPBED-LATHB.
face-plate,
from the
remount the
fit
cylinder,
and
fin-
Use
When
they are
fitted,
it
there
remove the clamps and turn and finish the flange part of the pattern and the core-print, as shown in the sketch. As this is a difficult pattern to draw from the sand, give the
proper draught, not only to the pattern proper,
When
but to
all
same manner the der for the steam-chest and then glue it on
steam-cylinder, as in the drawing. Fig. 30.
Turn and
to the
The hollow
Exercise 19.
be cut into
(Part
II.,
gs
in
a later
exercise
13, Pistou-rings).
,
without
prints.
the same
object
PA TTERN-MAKING.
55
is
As
up
tliis
it
to
be built
of several
layers or rings, as
consisting,
elevation
A, each ring
56
THE SPEED-LATHE.
a sufficient
number of pieces to build up the pattern, and saw them out. Build the first course upon a piece of w^ood, say
cherry or maple, 6" square.
First with the com-
wood
passes describe a circle J" smaller than the inside diameter of the pattern. Place two of the seg-
ments upon the block with their ends touching and their inside edges coinciding with the circle, Fig. 35. Fasten them to the block temporarily with four small brads, and saw through the joint carefully with the back-saw, Fig. 35. If, after removing the brads and bringing the ends up together again they do not fit accurately run the saw through a second time. If the pieces are marked and sawn out carefully from the template, they ought to fit after running the saw through
Fig. 36.
first
time.
last
Fit
all
segment may be a little long, so that as it is brought up to the circle, Fig. 36, it will need sawing two or three times through the joint to make the edge and the circle Upon the block as a foundation the segagree.
same manner.
The
PATTERN-MAKING.
57
ments of the first course are to be glued, each one being glued on its side face to the base-board and its end to its next segment. The segments of the second course are glued to the first in the same manner, but breaking joints, that is, with the joints opposite the middles of the
pieces of the
first
same plane.
Fit
of
and glue up
courses to
in this
manner a
sufficient
number
make
When
the
the glue
fin-
much
cup or
card-receiver.
Make allowance
for
shrinkage,
etc.,
tern-turning.
After
it
fin-
bact
and compass- saws to make the casting as light as The lugs are used to bolt the casting possible.
to the
face-plate
^
exercise.
58
THE SPEED-LATHE.
LESSON
VII.
BRAS S-TURNING.
The methods and
processes in brass-turning are
similar to those in wood-turning, but
the tools
may be
some of the
to a straw
The
must be ground off, because the advantage gained by the top-rake in assisting the tool to cut freely is more than counterbalanced by its tendency to dig into the work, spoiling it, and often breaking the point of the
there
is
any,
tool.
it is
almost
woodwork
first
true
and nearly of the required dimensions. As the flatter-tool blacksmi thing, the smoothingin plane in carpentry, and the chisel in wood-turning
BRASS- TUnNlNQ.
are used for finishing,
59
and not for roughing out, so in metal- working, the broad finishing-tool should be preceded by a roughing-out tool. Such roughing-out tool is most commonly the graver. This is made from a bar of square steel or an old square file, by grinding the end obliquely to
Fig. 37.
is the heel of the form the cutting edges a, a. tool, used as pivot, and rests on the T as a fulcrum. For parallel turning the straight flat-faced tool
(Fig. 38)
is
the best.
<?,
The lower
surface,
shown
not
in elevation at
is
^, is flat,
3^
7
Fig. 38.
gouge for wood-turning. The cutting edge may be round-nosed or diamondshaped. The method of holding and operating the tool is to grasp the handle in the right hand and place the tool on the top of the T, holding it down with the thumb of the left hand, with the fingers round the socket of the rest, as in Fig. 39.
hollow
as in the
60
THE 8PEED-LATBE.
of the
must be smooth, so that the Adjust the T so tool may slide along freely. that when the tool is upon it, resting on the heel By in a horizontal position, the cutting edge shall be on a level with, or a little below, the cen-
The top
FiG. 39.
tre of the
is
it.
The
tool
guided by the thumb of the left hand. From a piece of brass tubing provided for this
exercise, cut off
Exercise 20.
ferrule ouc
\,^yy
Remove
ed2:e ^
file.
the
A ferrule.
Use
of the
with a
the
graver.
scrapcr or a half-round
With
file-handle to
fit
the ferrule
BUASS-TURNmO.
61
way up
off
to the shoulder,
The parting
might be used here, but it is better to learn to face with the graver, thus avoiding loss of time in changing tools. Cut with the broad face of the tool, with one of the top faces resting upon the
tool
hand-rest, as in Fig. 40.
Scrape
oif
the burr
made
Fig. 40.
by
off
if
the end
is
true reverse
up
to the shoulder,
and face
as a roughing-, a finishing-,
To
use
it
as a roughing-tool to
your right with the left grasp the tool close to the hand-rest, holding the edge or heel J3 firmly to the face of the T, with the knuckles on top. The work can be turned very true and parallel if proper care be taken to make the point of the tool move in a
line parallel to the axis of the lathe.
up the ferrule, grip the handle in hand with the knuckles below, and
This can
rota-
which are
to
be made together
First. If
62
THE SPEED-LATHE.
is
rest,
the
point will be carried round the circumference of a small vertical circle, reaching its highest point
when
the
it
semi- circumference
the circle.
As this
the
rotation
brings
nearer
the
to
cutting
point
horizontal
work
cut
(it
was below
and
this
it
more
it
more
its
deeply
till
reaches
it
would be
cir-
cumference of a horizontal
the axis of the
circle,
coming nearest to
the
work
at the
moment when
This
BRASS-TTTRmNO.
63
in
movement
surface.
also,
by
itself,
to
a cylindrical
and the horizontal movement respectively, and let each be divided into two halves. During the first half of the vertical movement the depth of the cut increases, and during the second it decreases. During the
first
from right to left, and therefore the cutting point from left to right), and during the second it decreases.
If,
zontal
with the
this
movement, and
same horizontal movement be reversed during the second half of the vertical movement, it will be
possible so to adjust the rates of the
two
as to
move
in a straight line
and cut a cylindrical surface. Practise the two movements separately, holding the cutting point at a short distance from the work, Then, in the same way, practise so as not to cut. them in combination. Lastly, apply the point
to the
work
first,
As
the ferrule
it
a solid cylinder.
From
64
THE SPEED-LATHE.
and
parallel.
cylinder true
Exercise 21. Practice with
First screw on
the
chuck.
Hemember
the
precautions
on the faceP^^^^? ^'^^ ^se the same, and if postooi.^^u^rrof the chuck. siblc greater care, with the chuck, particularly if the chuck is a loose rather than a close fit on the spindle and offers no resistance. There is even more risk in the case of the chuck than in that of the face-plate of bringing it up to the shoulder too quickly and jamming it, for the reason that it is heavier, and has, therefore,
^q j^g taken lu scrcwiug
more momentum. The chuck is a very delicate tool, easily injured and made useless for accurate work hence very great pains should be taken to screw it on and off the spindle carefully. As the chuck approaches the shoulder of the spindle bring it up into contact gently, and without using undue force. If it is Jammed too tight it will be difficult to remove it without injuring the lathe, and besides the thread of the chuck may ride up on that of the spindle and
;
Fasten the piece of brass in the chuck with the end projecting about 2" from the Jaws of the
chuck, and with the centring-tool centre the end.
BRASS-TURNING.
65
The
centring-tool
saw-file at
is
made by grinding
in figure 43.
the end of
an old
lathe-centre, as
shown
The edge a
Fig. 43.
and not h and c being the cutting part, the edges h and c are purposely ground off a little so that
<^.4
Fig. 43.
Bore a hole with an awl or make a mark with a centre-punch at the end of the handle and the tool will be ready for use. Set the T rest about \" from the end of the work and at right angles to the axis of the work. The end of the work must be faced ^^
only one edge,
a, shall cut.
quite true,
if
not so already.
Place
<^"-
work
as
you are
down
to
it
GQ
THE SPEED-LATHB.
tlie
and
centre.
T
it
rest
with the edge and corner a up, the point shall be about -3^" below the centre. Grasp the handle in your left hand, start the lathe in motion, and you will feel the tool wabble or rotate a little if the point is not exactly at the To stop this eccentric mocentre of the work.
so that
when
the
face
is
rested
upon
and to centre the w^ork perfectly true requires some skill in handling the tool. The tail-centre being placed in the hole in the end of the wooden handle, hold the tool with the flat face down and parallel to the top of the T rest, but not touching When the point has entered the metal about it. ^~' steady the tool upon the rest by allowing
tion
till
one of
its
The
a
rest
fulcrum and the edges at h and c being rounded off, leaving but one edge a to cut, the tool has a tendency to feed itself in towards the
centre.
It is necessary, therefore, to
do
this
very
tool
carefully
work.
when
this rotary
movement
of the tool
ceases.
Now
BBASS-TUMNINQ.
piece between the chuck and
tlie
67
dead-centre.
Set
the rest at a convenient distance (about f ") from the work. Adjust the height of the rest so that when the
and held in the proper position the point shall be on a level with the point
graver
is
resting
upon
it
of the dead-centre.
Run
at a
As
in wood-turning,
re-
away
danger
if
you
Fig. 44.
if
the
work
is
forcing the
centre,
centre.
work out
point of the
When you
allel
smooth
08
THE SPEED-LATHE.
tool^
tool.
and
will
The edges
tool
a, a,
Fig. 43,
do the
cutting.
The same
it
may be used
to
as a scraper
or as a cutting-tool, according
is
and
For further practice with the graver, reverse the piece in the chuck and turn the end to a conical
Exercise 23.
f^^
^^^^
the
Taper
ing.
turn-
lathe-ccntre as
cone.
you can judge by the ^^^ then reuiovc the centre and
fit
the centre-gauge.
file-handle be-
Remove
tween
graver,
file,
the chuck,
mount the
the
centres,
and
finish
ferrule with
the
Cut
An
off
Exercise 24.
oil-hole
and emery-paper. a piece of J" round brass 2 J" long. ^crcw ou the chuck carefully. Grip
the piece of brass in the chuck, with the
P^"^'
end projecting out far enough to allow the work to be turned and finished. For all light turning, if the work does not project too far from the face of the chuck, the centre may be dispensed with, which will give more room. Work as close to the chuck as possible,
BBASS-TURMNG.
and with the graver-tool turn and
lathe-spindle.
fit
69
the plug to
Rough out
tool
as
point
of the
and face
^^^- ^^
down the
shoulder a as in the
ferrule exercise.
ring exercise in
ball
cutting
before
it
off.
With the
I'ound-nose
tool
turn out
fillet
the
the
h to
proper
very
light
depth.
For
delicate
turning,
and even
graver-tool
may
be
used,
held
fii'mly against
the
better,
Fig
ro
THE SPEED-LATHE.
it.
and guide
is
The
tool
more
and used as a With the tool in the position shown, scra]3er. Grip the small end finish and cut off the plug. in the chuck and finish the ball.
applied in the reverse
position
From
turn the binding-post and screw, Fig. 47, to dimenExercise 25. sious. Tum and finish up with the
A bindingpost. Turning,
tool
little
mill
the ends.
of
the holder.
On
this
I'oller
file.
teeth
are
cut
With
each holder
and cut or
tje^^*
pitch,
selected best
In this par-
may be
used.
Hold
Adjust the
BRASS-TVBNINO.
71 resting
work
so that
when
the tool
is
upon
it
and held in a horizontal position the centre of the knurl shall be below
the
centre
of
the
work,
cutting
The
and not bind when applied to the work, and it must be oiled frequently. Start the lathe in motion and apply the tool,
pressing the tool
the work.
soft
upward
as a lever
This pressure against the brass will reproduce the teeth cut
on the knurl. Fig. 48. Centre with the hand centring-tool, and drill a hole 1" deep in the end of the piece with a drill whose diameter is equal to that of the bottom
of the thread on the tap to be used.
The
hole
is
Fasten this
This chuck
is
self-centring.
mandrel which fits the hole in the spindle, and in There is inside the end of the mandrel is a centre. of the chuck a revolving disk with a coil or thread cut upon its inside surface and a corresponding To open or thread on the sui'face of the jaws.
close the Jaws
it is
T2
THE SPEED-LATHE.
of a steel pin inserted in a hole provided
by means
placed in the
centring-tool,
the metal
by the
and the
tail-centre
being inserted in
HCDC
Fig. 49.
is
then pressed
forward with the dead-centre by the right hand, while the chuck is gripped with the left to prevent it and the drill from turning.
You have
drilling
from your experience in with the common flat drill, the most simlearned
first,
very carefully at
drill a cavity
till
a depth sufficient to
drill
is
has
been
cut.
not
run or spring away from its cut, as it is supported all round by the metal. If the drill has entered this depth without springing away from its centre, and is true, it may be fed in to the proper depth, 1". This drill is called a twist-drill from the fact of
so apt to
BRASS-TURNma.
its
Y3
having two helices cut from end to end. It is very nearly round aud cylindrical, being only very slightly tapering from the cutting end to the shank, and the diameter is ground away at a, a a. short distance from behind the cutting edge to
give clearance.
The advantages
Fig. 50.
that
it
always runs
true,
and
if it
breaks requires
no forging or tempering. It offers very little resistance in cutting, but time must be given for the drill to cut and for the dirt or shavings to escape, otherwise it will heat and lose its temper and
possibly break.
The
is
tap
is
considered
to
Taps
are
are
ad-
used
of
cut the
They The
much
time.
is
In
a
a
made
much
little
longer.
long taper
The threaded end is turned with (Fig. 51). The end at a is turned
74
at
hj
and the end c is squared to receive a socket or Avrench. Between b and c is the shank, which is also turned down to the diameter of the bottom of the thread and left long to receiv^e the nuts.
This long taper allows the tap to cut free and easily. If this tap is screwed through the hole in the nut or piece of work a full thread will be cut
is
made long
When
a sufficient
Fig.
51.
amount of work has been tapped to fill the shank the machine is stopped, the work removed, and the
shank again
filled if
necessary.
When
screws to hold
used.
down
^'' in
diame-
made
forming
set,
and bottoming
taps.
The
first
tap (Fig.
52,^)
is
made tapering
almost from end to end, the end, as in the machine-tap, being of the same size as the hole to
BRASS-TURNING.
75
be tapped or the bottom of the thread. The second or plug tap, which follows the taper tap, is also turned tapering, but only for a short distance
The
cylindrical the
whole length
is
To form
Fig. 52.
The
cutters
of the twistfile,
or in the
fric-
As
its size
it is
All taps are made to standard and of uniform pitch, so that the bolts and
The
pitch
is
the dis-
parallel to
76
TEE SPEED-LATHE.
The
taps
and
square.
The
friction,
the amount of
incli-
temper necessary to prevent wear, and the twisting or torsional strain to which the tap is subjected make this a very delicate tool and one very apt to break unless great care After some experience you is taken in using it. will be able to judge by the feeling while using the tap whether it is cutting freely, or whether, if the cutting is continued the tap will break, and
will learn to
manage
it
accordingly.
To
as
al-
it.
:
To
Hold
the
tap in the
Exercise 27.
Tapping.
wrench hold it up to the tail-centre in the same manner as in the drilling exercise, except that no pressure must be put on the tap, the object being only to guide it and keep it horizontal. Allow the tap to play Turn the tap back oca little in the centre. casionally (by unscrewing it a little) to free it
^j^d of the
BRASS-TUBNINQ.
from the cuttings and dirt, and it will cut better and Mall not be so apt to break. Follow up the tap with the tail-centre as it is fed in, and when it has been run in very nearly to the bottom of the hole it may be backed out, wiped off, and put away. Mark out and drill the hole f oi' the wire. First, mark with the tool a ring aa round the middle of
Fm.
the post dividing
53.
taking
it
out of
into
mark two
and one for the tail-centre. Remove the chuck from the lathe and also the work from
for the drill
the chuck.
With the
in the drill-chuck
work up
in
to
centre-punch
mark and
the
tail-centre
the
78
other.
THE SPEED-LATHE.
Push the
drill in
way now
and with the hole held up to the tail-centre and the punchthrough, then reverse
first hole.
At
this point
as it has a
tendency to feed
itself in.
It
must be held back at this point of the drilling, rather than pushed forward. Before cutting off and finishing the bindingpost grip
it
Fig. 54.
To
turn the
first
Rough
J" of the size of the tap, and while the work is between centre and chuck. Fig. 54, mill the head with the knurling-tool, as in the last exercise,
BRASS-TUBNmG.
79
Remove
larger,
if
^^^
die."
The thread
die,
is
same purpose
the
is
wrench does
a small disk
The
made
first
of steel
The
steel
annealed
Fig. 55.
and a tapping-hole
It
is
drilled
through
its
centre.
then chamfei'ed and tapped, very much as in the binding-post exercise, except that a
hob or master
stronger tool.
tap, as it is
often called,
is
used
The hob
is
much
as in
The
off,
the tap, but more gi'ooves are cut along the axis
of the tool.
sizes
and no
so
THE SPEED-LATHE.
Some hobs
with a large diameter have a fine pitch, and some have no screw at all, but simply a series of rings. Hobs are special tools, and are used only for
making
tools,
such as
with a
file
to
To
file
up
do
its
much
skill
and
thought.
tap, to
filed
back, as in the
and also to prevent the teeth from breaking off while unscrewing the die, and the other edge is filed u]3 to form the teeth. It should also be filed so that the die can start square and so make a true thread. To do this
give
the cutting edges are
made
it.
away
all
the
first
make
filed
Some
out,
the thread
off,
BBAS8-TURNING.
Dies for general use are made
parts
in
81
two halves
or
and
fitted so as to slide
together in a stock,
is
or
milled
may
This
die
thus be
hole
made
tight
to
fit
the
tapped
is
or
loose.
by means
three
small
To
stock
A
C
die
by turning the screw toward the right and and toward the left. Hold the
up
work
right,
it
and turn
holding
towards the
leading
and
as
as
straight as possible.
Use the
to
same
of
care
in
tapping,
and without
otherwise
as
you are
likely
to
I'lG
56.
break
die.
off
Kemove
by unscrewing
it
and try
82
TEE SPEED-LATHE.
little
brass nut
and
to be used as a gauge,
and
if
it is
together
by unscrewing
it
the adjusting-screw
towards the left) and turning the and O toward the right, which will press screws or contract the die, causing it to cut deeper the
(turning
second time
it is
The
points
and the die is pierced to receive them, so that to expand or open the die it is only necessary to unscrew the adjustingin, thus and 6^ and to turn the screw screws forcing the conical point forward between the two parts of the die and opening it. Take a sufficient number of cuts over the screw-blank to fit the screw to the gauge easy Cut off the screw with the without shake. parting or square-nosed tool and finish the bindingpost to the proper length before removing it from
of the screws are conical
the chuck.
Grip the screw lightly in the chuck, protecting the thread with paper, or, better, screw the head
well up into the binding-post or nut, fasten the latter true in the chuck, and with the graver and
emery-paper finish
it
smooth.
To make
an end-piece of brass left over, first face off the ends to the proper length, centre, drill, and tap, as Then remove the brass from in the last exercise.
BBASS-TURNlNa.
the chuck and replace
it
83
of soft-steel wire
by a piece
having about the same diameter as the tap or binding-screw. True up the end and file it to the exact size if it is too large. Thread \" of the length of the wire and screw the piece of brass on it, but only so far that the end of the wire shall not project, but shall remain about \" inside of the brass,
leaving room for the point of the tail-centre.
You
will find in this exercise that without the tail-centre inserted in the hole of the brass as described
would not be practicable to turn It. Attempt to turn it and you will find it impossible, and will thus impress on your mind the principle already
it
work the
be used
Exercise 29.
must
certainly
Use
of chaser,
whenever it is possible to do so. w-iththe"^ Bring up the tail-centre and finish as chaser, you did in the last exercise, with the centre in the hole of the brass. With a piece of \'' round brass 2^" long, mounted in the chuck, centre, face and chamfer the end with the graver-tool. It will not be necessary in the first lesson to true or turn off any of the metal with the graver, as, if accurately centred, it will be quite true enough for practice-work with the chaser-tools. The object in not turnino; it true at first is to save time and
material.
Now
it,
84
Tlie chaser-tool
TEE SPEED-LATSE.
is
lield
up
first
to the
work
in about
roughing and turning the metal. Grasping the handle in your right hand with the knuckles under, and not on top, hold the tool down firmly to the rest, and in a horizontal position, with the
left
Adjust the T so that the top or face of the cutting edge shall be on a line with the axis
hand.
of the lathe-centres
when
it is
zontal position.
fingers
Now
round the socket of the T thumb pressing down on top, give the handle a circular movement, the point directly under the thumb serving as a pivot. The movement, with the exception of the twisting and raising of the handle, is very much the same as the circular move-
ment given
to the graver-tool.
To
tal)
commence
first at
the very
up to the end of the work, and with this circular movement, and only a little sliding movement or even none, use the tool as if it were pivoted on Cut a screw with the middle part of the T rest.
the chaser (an expert will cut this
first
thread with
the graver).
With
it
the
first trail
own
track.
Avoid
(as
you
are
now
BRASS-TUBNINO.
85
be coarser than the pitch on the chaser too much sliding motion has been given to the tool, and the
reverse
is,
of course, true
if
the pitch
is finer.
Fig. 57.
The
The
If
left-handed screw
difficult to cut
shown
in Fig. 57
would
be more
cutting
you
find
difficult to
is
if
sliding motion,
which
straight thread, or
in
drunken,
fasten
chuck a piece of f " round iron threaded at one end and practice, allowing the
the
"
86
motion and try to give the same motion to the tool when applying it to your work. Cut over with the tool (keeping in the same trail)
as often as
it is
necessary to cut
it
to the required
depth.
sharp.
To
turn and
Exercise 30.
Cutting a standard
thread.
a thread to a standard f " use Turn off the the Same piece of brass.
fit
with the point of the graver and finish in the same manner as in Exercise 28. Cut a thread on this with the chaser, to fit the thread in the nut, To so that it can be screwed on easily by hand. withdraw the chaser at the end of each cut with-
Turn
out touching the shoulder or injuring the thread will require skill, which you will acquire by practice.
To
rouud
off
To
start a
chaser in very
a scraper or a
much
file.
the same
manner
off
file
as
you would
To round
hold the
file
you will
first
an angle and
BBASS-TURNINO.
then
87
round till it becomes This motion, parallel with the axis of the work. if properly performed ^vith the chaser, will trace a thread on the corner. Then, with the chaser supported upon the hand-rest and the cutting edge or
gradually bring
it
teeth held parallel to the inside diameter of the hole, trace and finish the thread.
FiCx.
58.
the same precaution in tracing the first cut for the thread as you did with the outside chaser. Hold the tool up to and inside the hole, touching it,
Use
and with the thumb of the left hand draw the tool up and slide it along carefully with both hands.
Fit
it
88
THE SPEED-LATHE.
Turn
anotlier screw as in Exercise 29,
it off
and before
screw on the brass nut (Exercise 31) and, using tlie screw as a mandrel, mill and finish
cutting
the nut.
To turn and
inside
.
fit
a cylinder or plug
by means
^'
of
and outside gauges, a method called a cutand-try"fit, you must be provided with ^^ Exercise 32. 7 /
.
Use
of inside
m
.
a cylm-
^^ ^^^ Cylinder or
work down
duplicate or
till
it
is
as
near
of
the
you can measure with the calipers. Try the work in the hollow cylinder and turn off and try again until an easy
gauge
as
Fig. 59.
fit
without shake
is
obtained.
Then
Having fitted one cylinder to the hole in the disk by repeated trials, fit another one without trying the two pieces before they are finished, depending only upon calipers for the fit. The accuracy of your work will depend very much on the manner of holding the calipers while setting
recentre.
BBASS-TUBNING.
89
tbem and while applying tliem to the work after they are set. Read the lesson in Engine-lathe
Work
on
fitting
with
calipers.
Fia, 60.
For additional
59,
exercise
make an
oil -cup,
Fig.
and a glove-powder box, Fig. 60. These exercises involve no new principles, and Exercise 33.
are
tice.
not
necessary
the
except
flat
for
prac-
Practice^j^^
Use
common
tool or the
graver
heavy
and gouge,
and
iron- work.
Hold
the
Other exercises which will afford practice with the gouge on both inside and outside work are
shown
in Fig. 61.
90
TEE SPEED-LATHE.
LESSON
WOOD-TUENING.
VIII.
GOUGE-WOEK.
wood-turning exercises Mtherto, including even those on wliicli concave surfaces have been
formed, as in the case of the file-handle (Fig. 18,
Our
page 30), have been performed with the chisel. There were two reasons for thus deferring the introduction of the gouge first, it is a dangerous tool in the hands of a beginner, and even in those of
:
61.
handled very carefully and secondly, when the chisel is thoroughly mastered much work can be done with it for which the gouge
it is
;
would otherwise be
saved. It
is
used,
now, however, necessary to learn to use the gouge. For this purpose we will turn a box or
WOOD-TURNING,
cup,
91
shown
in Fig. 61.
This
is
Exercise 13, page 37, and might be performed with the chisel, though imperfectly and with more difficulty than that exercise, because of
cutting at
c.
the
under-
Kough
Exercise 34,
-'^^"p-
up
after the
.
Use
of the
gouge.
One
made
in using the
gouge is to attempt to cut up an incline. Always cut downwards, and turn the concave part of the
Fig. 63.
gouge away from the surface you are cutting. Finish the moulding aa and all you can of the outside first, and then proceed to face and bore. To face and bore, the position of the T is to remain just as it would be for outside work,
92
especially
if if tlie
TEE SPEED-LATHE,
cavity to be cut
is
a shallow one
obliquely,
deep, the
should be
moved
little
but not at right angles to the axis of the lathe, Now if the as for other tools used in boring. gouge is properly ground and has but one slope ah, place it on the T with the hollow inclined to the length of the T, and with the bevelled
face bearing
flat
which has been already faced off square and true. In this position the gouge of course cannot cut. Still holding the gouge thus, move it up or down,
Fig. 63.
Now
swing the handle of the tool just a little toward your right, still keeping the point or cutting edge a at the centre and still holding the conThis movement will cave face towards the right. cause the heel h to move a little from the surface,
in,
cutting a
WOOD-TURNING.
small cavity in the face.
tool
93
Now
must be pushed in and over still a little farther aAvay from the centre, cutting on the farther side
rather than on the side of the centre nearest you.
This will perhaps become clear to you if you stop your lathe and use the gouge as you would a carving-tool.
This will give it about the movement and the position it should have on the rest. You
in this case naturally grasp the handle of
would
left,
from you, gradually raising the point or edge a (Fig. 63) and turning or twisting the tool over and round toward
little
the
lie
I'ight, till
on the T, having made a quarter turn. If the work had been revolving at the time instead of being at rest a cavity would have been cut all round the face, and not only one quarter of the way round, as would have happened if the wopk were at rest. Start the lathe running and repeat this, pushing the gouge ahead, raising the cutting edge and twisting the handle, and compelling the tool to cut on the side farthest away from you, repeating the operation until the prpper depth has been reached. It may be necessary to .move the T round obliquely in order to finish this exercise. Deep holes cannot be cut with the gouge a hole can be bored, but it cannot so easily be
almost
flat
enlarged.
94
TEE SPEED-LATEE.
First turn a true cylinder having the diameter
With
a parting-tool turn
down
Turning a
hand end
ch
bau by hand,
Be-
two
and ha equal to half the diameter of the ball, and at the three points thus set off mark lines round the circumference wdth a fine
distances
Fig. 64.
Sink
the parting-tool in at
faces thus
<^
and
<9
The
formed should be parallel and the distance between them equal to the diameter of the ball, the line h being exactly midway between Before cutting any deeper with the the faces. parting-tool chamfer the ends off till, tested with the calipers, the work measures the same across Then cut off and chuck the aCy ac^ hh, and dd. partly turned ball, with the line hh a little outside of the chuck, Fig. 65, and running perfectly true. One half of the ball can now be finished.
WOOL-TURNING.
Rougli out the exterior
first
95
with the chisel or other scraping-tool, cutting away half the breadth of the line hh. As the ball is to be of a standard size, apply to it the
finish
and
Fig. 65.
gauge, Fig. 65, a piece of sheet brass about yV" Several such gauges are kept on hand to thick.
be used for
or
block
c
iuG. GU.
holes
balls.
accurately
turned
in
it
to
test
finished
to receive
far
enough
96
TBE SPBED-LATBE.
off,
angles to be turned
side a little distance
from
face of
tlie
chuck, in
which
it
same manner. must gauge precisely the same at all points. Test with calipers and gauge, including the ring-plate if you have one, and mark with a pencil or with the gauges themselves any little protuberances found. These protuberances can all be removed very quickly between female centres or blocks, Fig. 67, having in each a small cavity or hollow
this outer half in the
Fia. 67.
ball.
The chuck-block
h is
while the block a is loose and held up to the ball by the dead-centre this block or centre should be jDerfectly true, so
fast to the face-plate,
made
can be
desired
concenac-
This
is
and it requires much more skill. Metal balls, used as valves in some pumps, are
WOOD-TURNING.
often turned
97
and
on a stem, so that they can be roughed ^ rtieisi bail, out to size and shape between the centi'es, after which they are nicked and cut off with a metalsaw, or
if
the nick
is
balls,
as at a, they can
filed off to fit
be broken
the gauge.
are then prepared to
The chucks
are turned
the partly
and finished
in
Fig. 68.
which should have been turned very close to the form of the gauge and set of calipers, is now chucked either in a chuck with a hollow large and deep enough to receive about one half of the ball and hold it firmly, or between the shallow chuck and female centre, as described
ball.
wooden
The
ball,
Now
little flat
Turn the
cutting
down till it
just touches
98
THE 8PBED-LATHE.
first ring.
the
By
marks
shall
many
as
convenient,
by
when
it
is
ground to
with
glass, sand, or
burnt foundry-sand,
and
oil, it
OVAL TURNING,
99
LESSON
IX.
OVAL TURNINa.
Whe]^ two
head- and tail-stocks from lathes of
mounted together temporarily on one bed by means of a plate made for the purpose, and with a long drum or overhead gear, as it is called, of the same length as the bed, the machine
the same size are
thus produced
will have
is
It
dead-spindles.
of
This
the other.
the other,
or, if
one belt
is
The work
between the
cutters,
to be turned
front-centres.
?>,
is,
of course,
mounted
a
The
tool
may be
and driven by the overhead drum. The shape or form of the cutters is made to suit the special kind of work. The disk is carried in a slide moving in and out, to and from the centre,
100
TEi: 8PEED-LATBE.
The
by a
by
of
a weight
moved along
the
the bed
screw or
lever.
Now
pattern
an axe-
Fm.
69.
is
mounted
be-
tween the back-centres and the proper speed given to it, which in this case must be the same as that of the work to be turned. The two mandrels, one driving the pattern and
one the w^ork to be turned, are revolved. pulley a, having the same diameter and form as
OVAL TURmNQ.
the cutter not
h, is
101
is
held in
by
a weight or spring,
this oval pattern re-
shown
it
in the figure.
As
volves,
and as it continues to revolve the weight or spring draws the slide back toward the centre again. The pulley is thus kept close to and bearing against the pattern, and if the cutting edge of the cutter or disk and the form and circumference of
further
the pulley
ai'e
the same, an
the
exact
copy of
pattern
^^^' ^^'
will be produced.
to see that the to
It is easy
common
made
and
An
^'
index-plate," a
fixed
on beds of lathes
by special names. With such machines the workman is valued not so much for the amount and accuracy of the work
or machines designated and sold
and
set
up
be seen
later in the
102
TEE SPEED-LATHE.
LESSON
X.
on the hand-lathe without the use of other attachments all that is needed is the T, necessary chucks, mandrels, and the ordinary hand-tools, tilting-rest and compound rest. For this work the lathe should make about 800 or more revolu;
Fig. 71.
103
To
burnisli a piece of
work
it
is
is
to polish or give
done by holding up to the work a burnisher, a tool with a small, bright surface, generally rounded at the end. The tool must be made very hard and kept cool. To burnish a piece of work, a ring, for Exercise 37. instance, Fig. 71, the work must first Burnishing, be finished smooth, and all the scratches removed with files, emery, and oil. The tool is then applied by holding it in the rest and pressing it against the work as it revolves at a high speed. This gives that high polish to the surface that in highly finished silver- and steelis found work.
Fig. 73.
Spinning
is
is
almost
a business in
itself.
To
must
be high and the metal thin and properly annealed. rest with a long T is required, with a number
104
THE SPEED-LATHE.
which is But little to serve as a fulcrum for the tool. skill is required in spinning, compared with that
of holes for the insertion of the steel pin
of
lathe-work.
The
produced by pressing against the metal with a smooth tool free from all sharp corFor ordinary use the most convenient tool ners. is the one shown in Fig. 72, having an elliptical cross-section but sometimes several different tools are used in one piece of work. Try as an exercise to spin a common bowl or any
;
concave vessel.
Exercise 38
Spinning.
P^^^P^^'
of the required
metal cup.
is
The disk
centre.
by the
Fig. 73.
little
on
its
face
centre the
disk
105
tlie
by holding
tlie
tool or a piece of
wood on
Fig. 74.
the
work by hand,
work
to revolve concen-
and a speed which will generally be the highest that can be obtained on the ordinary lathe, place
the steel pin in one of the several holes that will
bed when held ready for work. Holding the centring-tool, made of wood, in the left hand and the tool of steel in the right, place them both on the rest, with the disk between them. Now bring
a gentle pressure to bear against the metal, near
and if you give it time you will cause the metal to conform perfectly to the mould, but if you force it too rapidly the metal will crack.
the centre
first,
The
wooden
tool
is
to prevent
106
this cracking or
and the tool. speed probably is not high enough. It is this high speed and a light j)ressure, such as would produce a slight indentation if the lathe w^ere at rest and a
series of circles
when
you
to
any de-
FiG. 75.
an expert after spinning a piece of work like this can spin it back again to its origi;
sired shape
Spinning
is
some cases soap-suds are used. Presswork or stamping is taking the place of spinning to some extent, particularly in sheet-brass work,
although
in
when
is
White metal
cannot so easily be
107
it is
Though
it
needs more
stamped
is
and time than sheet brass, and when likely to tear under the great pressure,
if
The
spinner, like
is
lathe-hand,
supposed to
tools,
know how
etc.
to design
and
the
make
all
his
moulds,
Some
of
moulds used for spinning faucy oil-cans, sugarbowls, teapots, and some of the large work spun for locomotive and marine engines require much thought and skill; the moulds, instead of being solid, are in sections and would puzzle an inexperienced woi'kman to put them together.
108
THE SPEED-LATHE.
LESSON XL
SPECIAL TOOLS
AND APPLIANCES.
a considerable time
any exercise
of opera-
If
great
number
a
of such pieces
required
quickly
to
sample
would
were first be
special
tools
would
machine.
different
the
gear-cutter,
the
monitor,
the
turret-lathe,
designed for
in large quantities.
you could
screw in the screw-cutter you would find that a very great number can be produced in a short time. These special tools and machines are all very costly, and if a tap, die, or forming-tool should
be ruined by cutting a dirty casting or piece of work with iron or steel in its composition, the loss
would be
considerable,
SPECIAL TOOLS
AND APPLIANCES.
109
and the finisher must insist upon this. wellequipped shop will have in connection with it a foundry and all the necessary tools. It will be provided with a separator to separate all the iron and steel chips and filings from the brass. This consists of a vertically revolving magnetic disk, over the edge of which is fastened a band of
very thin sheet brass, covering the rear half of
the edge.
The
put in a funnel directly over the slowly revolving disk and allowed to fall on the brass strip, and thence on the magnet. The brass filings and chips are not attracted by the magnet, and as the
disk turns they drop
off into
a receptacle placed
and iron revolves with the magnet, but before making a complete turn is brushed off by brushes which come in This operation is close contact with the cylinder. sometimes repeated. All castings are washed or cleaned by putting them into a revolving barrel called a tumbler. This barrel is sometimes made of iron, but wood
to receive them, while all the steel
is
much
is
two or
floor of
110
the foundry,
tlie
THE SPEED-LATHE.
burnt sand, pieces of scrap-iron, and dirt or dust are put into the bai'rel with the castings.
not only
Fig. 76.
chips also.
The
inclination
cause
all
The
dirty
water and the pieces of brass that are washed out through the cre^ ices made in the barrel drop into
the tub, the heavier pieces in the
first
compart-
ment, the next lighter in the second, and the lightest in the third, the dirty
lost,
The
is
called a
good
"
SPECIAL TOOLS
AND AFPLIANGES.
Ill
The
al]
work
accu-
rately
Til is
and quickly, are very expensive. Exercise 39. will readily be seen, for instance. The forming*
and beer-pump
This
is
width, with
The
Fig. 77.
roughed out or cleaned with a common hand-tool. The tool, which is set vertically and at the proper distance from the line of centres and parallel to it, is brought down in the same
stock
is first
way
end of the piece, and gradually along the whole length of the tool,
acute
angle, at the very
112
THE 8PBED-LATHE.
little resistance.
If this
the
it,
it
as a scraper-tool, as it
would
cuts
the
work
"-marks
little
like those
on milled work.
to
it
with a series of vibrations; but with the cutting edge at an angle as just described, properly ground and tempered, it will
cut a very smooth surface and a great
many
such,
making them
all alike.
With
finished
work
in
brass
is
by cheap
labor, as that of
boys or unis
The rag-wheel
12" or more in diameter, fastened to a mandrel and revolving at a speed as high as 4000 revolutions or more per minute, giving a fine polish to the work which is pressed
made
of disks of rags,
against
it.
LESSON
XII.
Having
tow
may now
ways
First.
When
the
left
your
side,
left
hand
either above or
handle in your right hand and the blade in your left, with the thumb on top and the forefinger
under the T, as
in Fig. 78.
wood
or brass,
hard or angular and it is necessary to hold the blade of the tool very
the
is
when
work
thumb
in
the
con-
lU
THE SPEED-LATHE.
Fia. 78.
115
the
rest, as in
Fig. 79.
Fourth. In turning small work, when it is necessary to use the gouge or calipers frequently, hold the knuckles underneath, as in Fig. 80, so
that the tool
may drop
116
THE 8PEED-LATHK
Fm.
80.
Fm.
81.
Il7
Wlien using the fingers of the left hand measure and dismount the work quickly while
running, place the
it is
thumb
in the
hollow of
as in Fig. 81.
Sixth.
Work
that
is
fas-
called
chuck work. For such woik the gouge is held as in Figs. 78-81 to turn the exterior, and as
or
described on pages 91 to 93
to
bore, enlarge
and
finish
the inside.
The
exercises
shown
in
Fig. 82.
Fig. 83.
the following figures are suitable for practice in these several ways of working, none of which,
118
tbe SPEED-LATBE.
Fancy Handles.
Knobs.
Chessman.
Fig. 84.
119
overhand " turning. Fig. 82 shows the frame and Fig. 83 the cylinder of a small vertical engine. This is to be turned by the first method, except when the workman prefers to turn it on an engine-lathe.
come
skilful in "
Fig.
85,
Fig. 86.
120
THE SPEED-LATHE.
The
pieces
in
Fig.
86
are
suitable
for
the
or of the "sizing-chisel"
shown
in Fig.
87, is required.
Fig. 87.
and
tables,
Fig. 88.
large quantities
sense
of
and cheaply, are gauged by the touch and mounted and dismounted
lathe.
They
are suitable
method
of workinsr.
Figures 89 and 895 show objects suitable for the sixth method.
Fig. 89a,
121
iiiiifiim
r\
Fig. 895.
122
Select your
THE SPEEB-LATHB.
mg
own method
cases;
Gavel.
Mallet-gavel.
Fig. 90.
Glove-darner.
TEE SLIDE-BEST,
123
LESSON
XIII.
EEST.
THE COMPOUND
by means of a bolt. The depth of cut is adjusted by means of the handle aa or hh. The slide can be swung around so
rest,
Fig. 91.
may be
parallel to
with them.
It is operated transversely
by means
124
of the screw
called a
h.
THE SPEED-LATHE.
compound
and
is
constructed to turn
work tapering
lathe,
as well as parallel.
as in Exercise
rest
.
Exercise 40.
The
aiiei.
shde-rest.
Turning par-
commou
SDced-lathe, ^
an
ta-
and
tools
work
on that machine.
a miniature Sellers shaft-coupling. Fig.
To make
92,
such as
may be found on
shopS,
^^^^j^^j
the shafts in
many
7
first
CUt off
loufif,
twO
picCCS of 1"
7
making a
coupling.
-^-^"
brass 1"
o^
Now
replace
it
Fia. 92.
from the face of the chuck 3" or more, centre and turn about 1" of its length to fit the hole
it
in
THE
the cylinder tight.
8LIDE-RE8T.
it
125
Drive
V at
one end and \^" at the other. This can be done by first turning the ends to the proper dimensions and
setting the slide so that as the tool
is
moved along
it
shall
FiG. 93.
It
can be set
and very exactly by holding a piece of metal which fits closely, first between the point of the tool and the small diameter, and then between the tool and the large diamIf the piece feels the same at both places eter.
approximately by
sight,
the rest
may be
considered properly
set.
In cases
126
THE SPEED-LATHE.
exactly,
you can test it very accurately by running the tool up and scraping off a chalk-mark and a little of the metal at one end, and then, without touching the screw or the
and replaced
Fig. 94.
running the tool along to the other end, where it should scrape off the same
handle of the
as at the first.
rest,
Fig. 95.
Turn the two pieces so that they are alike. Having now finished the cones, aa. Fig. 92, turn and fit the shell or ring, hh. Chuck a piece of
THE
1 J"
SLIDE-REST.
127
round brass about 2 J" long. Face and centre it and drill a J" hole through it. Then enlarge with a I" drill. Now with a brass-boring tool bore it true to' |" diameter. Next bore a recess
end 1" in diameter and J" deep. The chuck for this exercise should be absolutely true, and the ends or face of the work must be pushed back against the face of the chuck. Now set the tool and bore the taper, as shown in Fig. 96,
at
the
Fig. 96.
boring
first
one half to
fit
fit
The
setting
128
THE SPEED-LATHE.
cones placed in position and fitting snugly in tlie shell or rino;, mark and drill three holes, about
1"
in diametei', to
fit
the binding-post
screw-tap.
clearance-
hole in one cone and a tapping-hole in the other. Saw with a metal-saw each cone half through,
as at a, Fig. 97, so that it can
be sprung together.
Fig. 97.
Turn and
each of the cones, easy without shake, 8" in length of the piece
fit
to the hole in
Fig. 98.
Fasten the cones tightly on used as a mandrel. it with the little screws and true off and finish the
outside of the ring or shell.
This exercise takes in about all that the lathe is capable of doing, including facing, boring, drill-
THE SLIDE-REST.
129
and parallel
polisMug.
fitting,
iinisliing
on a mandrel and
Such pieces
and
Fig. 99.
They
are useful
exer.
new
methods of working.
ALPHABETICAL INDEX.
Appliances, special
Ball, turning a.
. .
PAGE 108 94
1 1
Bearings
Bed
of the lathe
Belt, care of
Belt, shifting the
3 10 58-89
Brass-turning
Built-up patterns
50-57
103
60
11
88
5
14 65 65
Centring-tool
83 112
20,
30 24-31 64 32
35 46
Chuck, care of the Chuck-work Chuck, wooden Clamps for divided patterns.
Cleaning work
.,
109
123 23-29
131
Compound
rest
,
132
ALPHABETICAL INDEX.
PAGE 49
Cores
Core-prints
48
3
Counter-shaft
Coupling, turning a
124
Crowning
of pulleys
4
86
81
5
1
Cutting an inside screw witli a cbaser Cutting a screw with, a die Dead-centre Dead-spindle Dies
79
Double-headed lathe
99
...
46 43
71
71
72
112
Emery-wheel
Face-plate
32
61
^
60 59
52
Flanges in patterns
Flat-faced tool
59
Ill
Forming-tools
Gluing
45
for turning
Gouge
wood
16
Gouge, holding the Gouge, use of the, in wood-turning Graver Graver, cylindrical turning with the Hand-rest Head-stock
90-93
59
62
1
Hobs
Holding Holding the gouge Hollow patterns Hollow work
the chisel
20,
80 24-31
48-57
36
1
Journals
Knurling-tool
Live-centre
<
70
5
ALPHABETICAL INDEX.
Live-spindle
133
PAGE
1
Metul-spinning
103
14
,
Mounting work
Oval turning
Parting-tool
99
34
43 43 43 50-57
,
Patterns, built-up
46 48-57
53
75 68
Pitch of taps
Plug
4 4
113
1
Kag-wheel
Rest
Ring, turning a
33
59 38
81
Roughing-out tool Round-nosed tool Screw, cutting with a die .... Screw, cutting with the chaser
Screw, inside
83
86
Screw of Screw of
tail-stock,
double thread on
8 8 109
.-
7
1
Shears
Shifting the belt
,
in patterns
IG 43
130
133 108
Special appliances
Special tools
108
11
Speed-counter
Speed-lathe, care and
Speed-lathe, parts of
13
management
of
1 1
Spindle screw
134
ALPHABETICAL INDEX.
GB
Spindles, live
and dead.
Spinning
Spline in the dead-spindle
102
7
1
Spur-centre
Starting and stopping
10
11
1 1
Tachometer
Tail-pin Tail-stock
Tail-stock, setting the
124
76
73
75 15
108
wood turning
Tools, special
Turner's gouge
16
,
Turning a ball Turning a binding-post Turning a chisel-handle Turning a coupling Turning a ferrule Turning a plug for an oil-hole Turning a ring Turning concave and convex surfaces
,.
94 70 30
,
124
60
68
32
23-29
15
Turning-tools, for
wood
99
109
72
the
gouge
113
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