Jeans Order of Operations

* Jean Fly Front Order of Operations 1. fold wider (2 ply), right fly piece in half lengthwise w/ right sides together. 2. stitch across the bottom of the fly piece in a diagonal direction, starting at the bottom cut edges, stitching UP toward the fold. Backstitch. 3. Turn right side out, poke point out and press flat. 4. Overlock along outer curved edge of LEFT fly piece (narrow, single ply piece) 5. Overlock straight edge of right front pant rise from the notch up. 6. Overlock straight edge of right fly piece (the folded one w/ "point"). 7. Place closed zipper FACE DOWN on top of left fly piece (single ply) w/ right edge of zipper tape 1/2" in from straight edge of fly piece. 8. Stitch along LEFT side of zipper tape, as close to the teeth as possible. 9. Attach left fly (narrower single ply) to straight edge of left front pant rise w/ right sides together. 10. Fold left fly piece to inside and press. Roll seam slightly under to the inside of the fly. 11. Edgestitch along left edge along seam, stopping at notch. 12. Baste right edge of zipper tape to right front rise w/ edge of tape 1/4" in from cut edge of pant. 13. Set right folded fly piece to top of right front pant w/ zipper sandwiched in between and sew a 1/2" seam. 14. Place face side of pants facing up and edgestitch along left edge of zipper on face, close to fold. 15. Fold crotch seam below notch on right front pant to the face and edgestitch. 16. Place pants with wrong side up and sew "J" stitch along curve of fly (single or double needle). Lift lower edge of zipper tape out of the way when stitching so it doesn't get caught in stitching. 17. With face side of pants up, lap left front over right front and stitch double needle "faux flat-felled" seam from the bottom of the zipper to the bottom of the crotch by turning under 1/2" on the left front crotch. 18. Bar tack at bottom of "J" stitch where it meets the crotch seam, and again at curve of "J" stitch, being sure to also catch the right fly piece underneath.

** Front Pockets 1. Overlock curved edges of small front pocket facings.

2. Turn under double folded hem across top of watch pocket, stitch across top w/ either single or double needle topstitching. 3. Turn under on 3 remaining edges of watch pocket.

4. Position and pin the watch pocket on top of one of the pocket facings. Single or double needle topstitch watch pocket to either the right (traditional) or left front pocket facing, whichever you prefer. 5. Lay out 2 pocketing pieces (non-denim) w/ face side up (if using a print), otherwise, if using a solid fabric, you will have a left and a right pocketing 6. Set denim pocket facings ON TOP of the pocketing, pin pieces together, aligning the top & side edges of the pocket facing w/ the pocketing. 7. 8. Single needle stitch around the curved edge of the pocket facings to attach. Sew across the top and sides of the pocket facings .

9. Place face side of one pocketing piece to the face side of jeans, pinning to upper front pocket curve. Stitch w/ single needle seam. Repeat for opposite side. 10. Press pocketing to inside along curved edge. Topstitch along edges of curve on face side of denim w/ either single or double needle topstitching. 11. Place WRONG sides of pocketing piece together at bottom edge. Stitch w/ a scant single needle seam. 12. Turn pocketing w/ RIGHT sides together at bottom edge and stitch a second seam, thus enclosing the first seam in a mock French seam method. 13. 14. Baste sideseam of pant leg to pocketing edges on sides. Baste top edge of pant to pocketing edges across top.

After you finish your front pockets, you need to attach the back risers. Remember to mark a sew line w/ chalk up fro. the lower cut edge of the back risers. Be sure to attach correctly, the straight grain will fin. at the top waist and the shorter, narrower edge goes to the sideseam, w/ the shortest side of the riser finishing up. Sew w/ a 5 thread safety stitch (the one threaded in navy) OR w/a mock flat felled seam. When sewing, the LEFT hand needle on the 5 thread should stitch right along the sewline you marked.

After sewing seam, press seams allowances either UP or DOWN, depending on finished desired look. Then Dbl. or single ndl. topstitch on top of the seam allowances on the face side of pant, either on riser sections, or back pant sections, depending on which direction the seams were pressed. Then sew the center back rise, making sure to match up seams of risers. Sew w/ a 5 thread safety stitch (the one threaded in navy). After sewing seam, press seams allowances towards one side and dbl. Needle topstitch. Next, attach your back pockets to ea. Side of the back pant, being sure to keep the left and right pockets even w/ ea. Other. Be sure to press edges under before attaching. Stitch w/ dbl. ndl. Topstitching. Then attach front pant to back pant @ inseam, sewing from the bottom of one leg to the bottom of the other in one operation. Sew w/ the 5 thread safety stitch. If you prefer, after sewing seam, you can press the seam allowance to the FRONT and single or dbl. ndl. topstitch along the fold on the front leg. Then sew the outseams. Also w/ 5 thread. After sewing, press seam to back and single needle stitch seam down to a few inches beyond the pocket opening. There are some jeans in the office for reference, also a fly demo in denim is on the right desk. Attach waistband w/ single ndl. lockstitch w/ reg. thread. First, attach RIGHT/FACE side of band to WRONG side of pant on INSIDE. Front edges of band should extend 1/2" beyond C.F. Then, press under 1/2" on long side of band that is loose. Then, fold front ends of band w/ rt. sides together and stitch across short ends of waistband at front edges, keeping folded edge 1/2" UP from btm. edge. Trim seam and then fold band over to the FRONT of the pant, press and single ndl. stitch down w/ contrasting topstitch thread. Roll folded edge of band over to just cover the seam that attached the band to the back. Stitch about 1/8" in from the fold, making sure to cover seam. For hem, press under 1/2", press again w/ 1/2" under, single needle stitch w/ contrasting topstitch thread. Cut a 1/2" square out on inseam and or outseam to reduce bulk. Lastly, work buttonhole in left front waistband (pls. do not use the Singer machine, as we have an industrial buttonhole machine on its way-the denim is too thick for the Singer). Then, bartack stress points, attach rivets, if desired, and attach stud button to rt. frt. waist.