Farm Impliments: Old Plans

FARM
BABY TRACTOR For Odd Jobs

By no means a mere toy, this little tractor has ample power and maneuverability to perform all sorts of light tasks.
NY small gasoline engine geared low - enough will develop considerable pull in this junior tractor and a handy boy not only should have a lot of fun with it, but may be able to pick up various odd jobs of hauling and towing in the neighborhood. It can be used to pull small loads of dirt, gravel or rubbish, or tow two or three coaster wagons full of youngsters. It is geared to travel as fast as a brisk walk and is designed to run over rough or soft ground as well as on the sidewalk. Its lines are similar to those of a full-size job, as seen in Fig. 1; its wide tread prevents tipping over on the side of a hill and it has a very short turning radius for work in close quarters. The large drive wheels are very simply made. Two 20-in. disks are built up of 3/4-in. x 7-in. boards cleated on the inside, as shown in Fig. 2. The tire is a 6-in. wide strip of heavy galvanized sheet iron with cross treads nailed over it. A section of brass tube serves as a hub. The wheel turns on a 3/4-in. 116
cold-rolled steel axle. It is highly important that the hub, which is driven in to a tight fit, be accurately centered and true in the wood disks. The driving load is carried by carriage bolts through V-pulley and one side of the wheel. Make the chassis frame of parallel two-bytwo's (net) with cross pieces as indicated in Fig. 3. The hood may need to be altered from dimensions given here if a larger engine is used. The dummy radiator is merely a 1-in. board cut as shown with heavy screen nailed over it. The "instrument board" is merely a duplicate of the radiator. These two ends of the engine compartment are tied together with strips on the sides, as shown, and covered with galvanized sheet iron. Use an old steering wheel from a sidewalk auto. The wheel should be fairly small. A length of 3/4-in. galvanized pipe makes a good steering shaft, and the spool is 3-in. x 3-in. wood. The cables must be crossed in order to steer the same as an auto. A coil tension spring keeps the cable taut. Mechanix Illustrated
FARM
The rear axle is clamped to the two-by-three cross members by means of Ubolts, as is the front axle to its two-by-five inch member. The 3/4-in. steel jackshaft is carried in b r a s s - t u b e bearings clamped to the frame with wood blocks as shown. Small pulleys on the ends of the jackshaft carry belts to the drive wheels, and as these belts are not adjusted too tightly, they allow slippage in turning corners, thus serving as a differential. In this connection the writer has found by experience that a good V-belt is very accomodating in this way; it will slip if the load becomes excessive but pulls like fury when not overtaxed. A 10-in. (Delta) V-pulley is driven direct by the engine pulley. The Vbelt between the two is adjusted loosely enough to permit the motor to run free. An idler pulley serves as belt tightener and when thrown in position the tractor starts in motion. October, 1941
The diagram, Fig. 4, illustrates operation. When the lever is forward the idler pulley is free and the brake shoes engage with the rear drive-pulleys. Drawing the lever back brings the idler-pulley against the engine ,belt and tightens it. Note that the idler should be swung on an arm about 3-in. long, and so installed that when engaged the arm is past center and is automatically held in this position until released by the operator. [Continued on page 136] 117
whichif delivered at ten-pound pressure through a 12-inch pipewould stretch all the way to the moon and two-thirds of the way back again. The statistically-minded will agree that that's more than just a lot of hot air. If you joined a party of tourists and went looking for the New York Steam Corporation's plant, the chances are you'd be disappointed. It isn't distinguished by a maze of pipes, boilers and retorts; if it weren't for four large smokestacks, you'd probably miss the plant completely, since more than half of its total assets lie buried beneath the city's streets and sidewalks. This is the beauty of a central steam plant, as the founders of the New York company realized almost sixty years ago. Coal is delivered to the plant in barges, thus eliminating the rumbling of coal trucks through the city streets, and, by being able te press a button to get his heat or cut it off, Mr. Citizen does his part to do away with ash removal trucks and the soot that is the scourge of most big cities. But, even though it is the centralized core of a $10,000,000 enterprise, the company's plant is not the roaring maelstrom one might expect it to be. Only about 1,800 menincluding executives and office staff, distribution gangs and the plant force are required to run this gigantic organization, with less than 300 needed at the plant itself to manipulate the levers, buttons and switches that keep the wheels turning. Probably no business in the world is as dependent on buttons as the New York steam plant. Virtually everything is done with buttons; one button starts the scoops that grab up the coal from barges and dump it into the crushers; another starts the machinery which pulverizes it into black dust at the rate of 160 tons an hour; another sets the furnaces into roaring action, and [Continued on page 137] 136
Baby Tractor For Odd Jobs

[Continued jrom page 117] The job can be greatly simplified because the belt tightener and brake are not absolutely necessary. The slow speed of the tractor does not involve any hazards, especially if the engine belt is always tight, for by shutting off the ignition the motor itself serves as a brake. In starting, the operator simply works the kick-starter with one hand and pushes the light vehicle forward with the other until it takes hold, after which he can easily hop aboard. If one wishes to work over uneven ground the chassis can be made flexible by the use of a swivelled king bolt, Fig. 5. This, however, is a blacksmith's job if you haven't the proper equipment to make it yourself. A brace should be installed as in Fig. 4. In case of a swivelled king bolt this brace must also be swivelled at the top connection. For greater power use as large pulleys as are available on the drive wheels, and as small as possible for those driving them.
Power Tool Bracket

[Continued jrom page 123] socket for the post from thicker wood and after removing sharp corners with sandpaper, screw it to the edge of the workbench. The post may be stored on a shelf when not required, as it can be slipped into the socket in an instant. Provide a padlock for the hasp so that you may lock the hand piece and prevent use of the tool in your absence. By using a clip and hasp of suitable size and shape, this bracket is easily adapted for use with other types of flexible-shaft tools.
This bale loader is constructed almost entirely of discarded car parts and stock sizes of both angle iron and sheet metal
The neat, trim lines of the bale loader, shown above in operation, will appeal to every farmer who likes to build efficient, labor-saving equipment in his shop
efficient bale loader, coupled to the side of a truck, picks up individual bales from the field and elevates them high enough to enable one man to build a six-tier load on either a truck or trailer platform. Fig. 1 pictures the offset hitch by means of which the loader is coupled to the side of the truck. The manner in which the loader is towed to and from the field behind the truck or trailer is shown in Fig. 2. Figs. 3. to 15, inclusive, detail the construction and assembly of the unit. First, note in the top view, Fig. 4, that the loader axle is offset to bring the loader as close as possible to the truck. The offset hitch is shown assembled for attachment to the side of the truck
Shaw and George BUILT BY LemCalifornia ranchers,Hammerschmidt, this
Above, an adjustable offset hitch of special design couples the loader to the side of the truck frame. Below, the loader coupled behind truck for transport
FEBRUARY 1950
217
5"
TOW AND PUSH BAR 1" PIPE, 92" LONG
" X 1"
FLAT IRON
WELDED TO PIPE
" BAR
SPACER BAR 1" PIPE, 32" LONG
FLAT IRON
TOW AND PUSH
BAR
2"
ROUND
1"
2"
6"
PICKUP DOG ( = 62 INTN'L. HARV. CHAIN)
36"
SPACER
ELEVATOR
DOG
BAR 16' - 4"
7' - 5"
15 36"
28"
30" 19" 10"
CENTER LINE OF BALE LOADER
OFFSET 41/2" CENTER OF AUTO AXLE
7"
6"
19"
8' - 10"
TOP VIEW
WELDED
(CHAINS AND SPROCKETS NOT SHOWN)
GALV. SHEET METAL BENT AROUND SHAFT
2" R.
CHANNELS FOR PICKUP CHAINS CHANNEL FOR ELEVATOR CHAIN SPROCKETS NOT SHOWN ADJUSTABLE BEARING
ADJUSTING BOLT
7
V PLATE FOR CHAIN ADJUSTMENT BRACKET
" X 1"
FLAT TIP BENT OUTWARD
STEEL PLATE
FIXED BEARING
3"
18" 15
IRON
SHOE WELDED ON PARALLEL WITH LINE OF TRAVEL
ELEVATOR CHAIN, 330 LINKS OR 27' - 6" LONG
26 30
52"
" STEEL TRUCKSPRING LEAF " X 1" FLAT IRON ONE DOG EVERY 9th LINK
8
5"
SIDE V I E W
4" SQS.
9
HOUSING FOR BALL BEARING
SHOE
PICKUP CHAIN, 30 LINKS OR 6' OF CHAIN. ONE DOG EVERY 3rd LINK WELDED
PICKUP SPROCKETS (FORWARD)
X 1" X 1"
10
X 1" X 1"
ANGLE IRON
ANGLE IRON
" X "
FLAT IRON
" X 1" WELDED CHANNEL
" PLATE FOR CHAIN-ADJUSTMENT BRACKET
8"
14-GA. GALV. SHEET METAL
19"
X 1" X 1"
ANGLE IRON
" X 1"
FLAT IRON
4"
X 1" FLAT IRON

28"
4"
"
70"
PIPE
1" PIPE
7" 11
FRAME ASSEMBLY
23"
4" SQS.
" PIPE
1" PIPE, 8" LONG
TOW BAR, 1 " PIPE
ENGAGED POSITION
BALL BEARING HOLES FOR PIN SPLINED SLEEVE SPLINED SHAFT
DEVELOPED PATTERN OF 14-GA. GALV. PLATFORM SIDES SHEET METAL
WELDED " PIPE
4" SQS.
4"
DISENGAGED POSITION
NEEDLE BEARING
WELDED
"
6"
PLATE
12
8' - 4"
13
SECTIONAL VIEW OF CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
CLUTCH
14" PITCH DIA.
88
WELDED TO AXLE
WELDED
FORD, MODEL-A REAR AXLE
PIN
" PIPE
14
LARGE SPROCKET, TEETH FOR #62 INTN'L. HARV. CHAIN (1 REQD.)
23"
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
3"
PITCH DIA.
LUG WELDED TO AXLE
7"
PIVOT 16"-WHEEL (6" X 26" AIRPLANE TIRE)
PIVOT HOLE
15
SMALL SPROCKET (5 REQD.)
VIEW LOOKING F O R W A R D
Lugs on the pickup chain are curved slightly to release bale. Those on the elevator chain are straight
Short pickup chains start bale on its way up the elevator bed, or "flight," to the loading platform
Above, chain tighteners are fitted on the pickup idler shaft. Below, ground drive is through car axle
frame. The parallel spacing bars are adjustable so that the loader can be located to suit the width of the truck platform. The long member of the hitch, top detail in Fig. 3 and also Fig. 11, serves the dual purpose of tow bar when the loader is towed on the road and that of push bar when the hitch is assembled for operation of the loader in the field. The three views of the drive mechanism, Figs. 13, 14 and 15, show the assembly of the drive unit. Note that the offset axle brings the drive sprocket, Fig. 14, in the center of the elevator bed. This position lines up the sprocket with the channel for the elevator chain, Figs. 4 and 5. Two Ford Model-A rear axles are assembled to form the drive as in Figs. 13, 14, 18 and 21. One axle, with the housings removed, is mounted on the end of the torque tube of the second axle which is used intact, including the radius rods, Fig. 15. The open ends of the upper differential housing are closed with steel plates, welded on. One plate extends to form a mounting bracket, Fig. 13, and is bored and slotted for mounting bolts and for the drive-sprocket shaft. The throwout clutch mounted on the end of the torque tube between the two differentials is assembled from stock parts as in Fig. 12. In addition to the large drive sprocket, Fig. 14, five small sprockets of 3-in. pitch diameter are required to carry the elevating chain and the pickup chains. The pickup chains travel in steel channels welded into the lower end of the elevator bed as in Fig. 5. The pickup sprocket assembly, with fixed and adjustable bearings, is detailed in Fig. 7, and is also pictured in Figs. 16, 17 and 19. The bottom of the elevator bed, or "flight," is covered with galvanized sheet metal and the sides are built up and braced as in Figs.
POPULAR MECHANICS
220
4, 8 and 10. Sheet metal forms the floor of the bale platform at the top of the elevator bed, Fig. 20. The sheet-metal guide, or fender, which forms one side and the end of the bale platform, is curved to turn the bale as it slides onto the platform. A layout pattern for cutting the sheet-metal part to correct size is shown in Fig. 8, and the detailed pattern for the bottom of the platform is shown in Fig. 4. Note that a "beading" of -in. pipe is welded to the top edge of the platform fender, Fig. 15. The wings, or gatherers, Fig. 16, are made up for both right and left sides as in Fig. 6. A shoe is welded to the bottom of each wing to carry the lower end of the elevator. It is important that each shoe be welded parallel with the line of travel, otherwise it will wear rapidly and may cause side draft. The lugs, or dogs, welded to the elevator chain are straight while those on the short pickup chains are curved back as in Fig. 3. This backward curve is important as it permits the lugs to disengage freely from the bale as they pass downward over the idler sprockets. Tension on the pickup chains should be sufficient to prevent buckling. Chain tension can be changed by adjusting the idler sprockets, Fig. 7. After the frame and elevator assembly has been completed, the axle assembly is trial-fitted in the frame and mounting lugs are welded onto the axle housings as in Fig. 15. Bolts passing through holes drilled in the lugs and the horizontal members of the frame hold it firmly in position. The upper end of the drive unit is bolted to a lug welded to the platform frame. Slots in the differential lug, or plate, Fig. 13, permit adjustment of the drive sprocket to the proper height with relation to the chain channel. The elevator chain need not run tightly as the weight of the chain ordinarily will give sufficient tension to prevent buckling. Note in Fig. 15 that the tires specified are of the airplane type and are mounted on 16-in. wheels. While tires of this type are satisfactory under ordinary field conditions, it may be necessary at times to use tire chains or casings with high-traction lugs in order to prevent slippage. The truck, or tractor pulling a trailer, should be driven at uniformly slow speed and the unit guided so that the pickup chains engage the end of the bale. To save time, bales which are dropped from the baler crosswise of the line of travel should be straightened before being picked up by the loader. As designed, the loader will pick up the standard size bale either flat or edgewise, depending on how it is dropped. If the larger, three-wire bales are handled, the elevator flight should be made correspondingly wider. Keep the drum and clutch units well lubricated to prevent undue wear on the parts. FEBRUARY 1950
Above, rear view showing curved platform fender which turns the bale at top of elevator. Below, differential and clutch are mounted on torque tube
221
Power Concrete Mixer Eases Home Improvements
Supporting frame. Two identical sides with handles are welded over layout drawn with chalk on cellar floor. Sides are braced to stand vertically and cross members added. Short lengths of 7/16" rod for axles are welded into lower cross member at rear.
Pouring yoke. Cross members of the yoke are bent 1 1/8" below level of side members so that mixer-shatt bearings will be centered. Motor is 1/3 hp., 1,725 r.p.m., fitted with 1" pulley. Speed-reduction shaft and pulley ratio turn drum at 43 r.p.m.
206 POPULAR SCIENCE
This midget mixer is just right for a one-man job. It'll mix concrete as fast as you can spread and smooth it.
FEW spare hours spent building this mixer will save you many hours with a mixing hoe when you tackle that new driveway or barbecue. Though its capacity is small, the mixer is no bottleneck on the job. I get through more bags of cement in less time than I did with a rented quarter-bag job. The 10-gal. drum is a type commonly used for sodafountain syrups, paint and bakers' supplies. Mine is 15" in diameter and stands 18" high. In or out of doors. The convenient handlebars permit you to roll it like a hand truck, and easily get through a basement doorway. The front legs of the frame can stand in a shallow form when you pour, eliminating the need for a chute or wheelbarrow. Construction. A light welder, electric drill and hacksaw are the tools you'll need. Materials can come from a plumber's scrap pile3/8'' and " pipe, and a few short pieces of " rod. The mixing blades are bent from 16-gauge sheet steel and bolted to the inside of the drum at a slight angle in the direc-
Maple bearings, soaked in oil and dusted with graphite, support drum shaft. Steel straps and J bolts secure bearings. With motor, drum and all parts in place, yoke is balanced to locate trunnions. These are welded 4" forward of balance point so drum swings up. tion of rotation to toss the mix toward the bottom of the drum. Speed-reduction shaft. A " insidediameter ball bearing is housed in each pipe cap to support the pulley shaft. The shaft assembly pivots on a " rod held between the yoke cross members by " bolts.Evan Wright, Topeka, Kan.
Loading up. Mixer takes about a tenth of a bag of cement for most sand-and-aggregate mixes. In final assembly, the frame is sprung apart just enough to admit the trunnions into the supporting washers. Cotter pins prevent trunnions from slipping out and keep frame from spreading while mixer is moved about.
That's right! 100 blocks per hour . . . provided you have the help and the space and racks to cure the blocks properly. In Fig. 1 you see the outfit complete, ready for work. It's a self-contained unit mounted on its own two-wheeled, pneumatictired trailer with a supporting caster wheel under the drawbar. There's nothing to take apart and put together again when you move the machine. Merely disconnect the water hose and the power line, hitch it to a truck, and away you go. Figs. 4 to 7 inclusive show how it works. Fig. 2 details the metal mold and Fig. 3 the ejector plates and assembly. In Fig. 4 the mold, supported by a crane, is being lowered into place on the molding "board", in this case a steel plate somewhat larger than the mold. In Fig. 5 the mix is being scraped and troweled into the mold. When full the mold is vibrated by means of a footoperated take-off drive, and then the excess material is struck off the top with the fence or striker board. Next, the crane is hooked to the mold and the ejector is swung into place. In Fig. 6 the operator bears down on the ejector and simultaneously presses a foot pedal to raise the mold off the formed blocks. In Fig. 7 the finished blocks are being moved to the curing racks. Fig. 8 shows the main frame, entirely a welded job using 3- and 4-
inch pipe, steel plate, and steel channel. Only general dimensions are given as some of these parts must be sized to fit during the assembly of other parts of the machine. With the exception of the motor, which is only a representation, the crosshatched views in Fig. 9 are intended to give a general guide to proportionate sizes of the machine parts and their relative positions. To make the manner of assembly more clear, certain parts have been omitted from these details. No detailed dimensions have been given in Fig. 9 because these will vary somewhat according to the materials and parts which you have or which are available. Figs. 10 to 15 inclusive show the assembly. From these details you will see first that the main drive from the motor to the mixing chamber is made from a Ford Model-A rear axle and drive shaft, (Fig. 11). One axle housing is removed and the open end of the differential housing is covered with a sheet-metal disk bolted on with a gasket between to prevent leakage of lubricant. A roller-chain drive sprocket is welded or keyed to the axle and a two-step V-pulley is attached to the drive shaft. The drive thus formed from this unit is welded to the trailer frame at three points: at the end of the Model-A axle housing where it passes through a hole in
the mixing-drum bracket, and at the differential and the forward end of the drive-shaft housing, where it also is supported on brackets. The hopper, Fig. 10, and the mixing drum are made of heavy sheet metal welded at all joints and reinforced with steel angles welded on as stiffeners wherever large areas of the metal are subjected to severe strain. The steel mixing blades of the agitator, Fig. 9, the top view, have a clearance of about 3 inches inside the drum. Figs. 13 and 14 and the two upper views in Fig. 11 detail the crane and ejector arm. The crane is an allwelded assembly of standard rod and pipe sizes and is operated by a pedal which extends underneath the machine. However, the ejector mechanism is a somewhat more intricate affair. The ejector plates must raise and lower in the same plane, making two pairs of adjustable parallel arms necessary. A "helper" spring eases the lift of the assembly and another coil spring swings it to one side. Bearings at both ends of the four arms should fit accurately. Fig. 11 shows the frame which supports the crane and ejector. The hopper is raised for dumping by a hydraulic cylinder, Fig. 11. Arrangement of the hydraulic system is shown in Fig. 12 and the drive to
First step is placing the molding "board" on the vibrator arms. Some material from the discharge door of the mixer is on the platform above the mold, which is still supported in the raised position.
Here the mold has been lowered and locked, the crane released and ejector swung aside. Operator is filling mold. After filling and vibrating the mold, the material is struck off flush with the top.
both the hydraulic pump and the mixer is detailed in Fig. 15. Raising and lowering of the hopper is controlled by a three-way valve, Figs. 11 and 12. By-passing the hydraulic fluid allows the pump to be operated continuously, thereby simplifying the drive. The vibrator shaft, Fig. 15, is pedal-operated and runs only when the pedal is depressed. One belt from the two-step cone pulley passes around an idler. The pulley driving the vibrator is located between the driving pulley and the idler as shown in Fig. 15. When the pedal is depressed the center pulley engages the belt, and "throw" of the off-center weights, Fig. 11, vibrates the mold. The mold must be held rigidly in place for this operation and Fig. 11-A details the quickacting clamping device especially made for this purpose. The mold and the ejector, Figs. 2 and 3, are made for three blocks. There are two cores in each compartment of the mold and note especially that each core is vented (Fig. 2) and tapered slightly so that it will draw easily without breaking the edges of the block. Cores can be cast from a rich cement-sand mixture or they can be made of heavy sheet metal, welded. Where facilities and
Next, crane is attached to mold and the
materials are available, they also could be cast from aluminum. Fig. 16, details A to E inclusive, shows a one-core mold (A and B) which is suitable for certain special types of blocks. Detail C supplements Fig. 6 and shows more clearly the procedure and placement of the hands in ejecting the block from the mold, while details D and E suggest types of elevated tracks or rails for moving blocks away from the machine and to the curing yard, as in Fig. 7. Curing racks of any convenient size may be assembled from hardwood boards, steel angles, and flanged rollers as in Fig. 16-D. Detail E suggests one way of providing for easy handling of the blocks from the machine to the curing racks. General assembly views of a hand-operated machine for making a few blocks at a time are given in Fig. 17. Here most of the work is done by hand, only the vibrator being motor driven. It's easy to build for either a one-, two-, or threeblock mold. Proportions of the mix which have been found most satisfactory are 7 parts pea gravel, 12 parts sharp sand, 2 parts silt, and 2-1/2 parts portland cement. The amount of water is determined by experiment as it depends on the dampness of the aggregate. 9
Here's the final step . . . moving blocks
ejector swung into position. Holding the ejector down, operator depresses a pedal, lifting the mold. Then after moving the blocks, the process is repeated.
to the curing yard on racks especially designed for the purpose. It usually is best to cure blocks in shade. They should not be handled until cured thoroughly.
" THE ODD-JOB

IT WON'T take long to figure the needs for this tractor on your farm. That problem will immediately take care of itself when you get the tractor built, for Farmette is just chore-boy size and it's faster than any team of horses. So far as its uses are concerned you can take it from there. Power from Farmette's 7-hp. air-cooled engine is taken off the engine crankshaft by flat belt to a 4-speed truck transmission and through this to a cut-down rear axle taken from a 1934 Chevrolet car. Of course, any suitable rear axle can be used, including a light truck axle. Positive clutching action is obtained by an idler pulley running on the slack side of the flat-belt drive from engine to transmission. The idler pulley is actuated by a pedal, the arrangement giving smooth foot-clutch control of the tractor. The pedal works against tension springs attached to the frame and to the idler-pulley yoke as in Pig. 3. Provision is made for adjusting the spring tension, which determines the tension on the belt when the clutch is engaged. In Fig. 3 notice also that essentially the same clutching arrangement is used in controlling the power takeoff. This consists of a short shaft with Vpulley mounted between bearings. The whole assembly is bolted to a hinged bracket. Movement is controlled by a rod carrying a compression spring, one end of which bears against an adjustable collar. The free
Here's Farmette mowing a fence row and making a good job of it, too. One can easily put together a small mower with a 31/2 or 4-ft. cutter bar from stock parts. It's also possible to adapt some small tractor mowers to this type of mounting with very little alteration. A rigid, welded frame is essential for front mounting
32
TRACTOR
Small jobs that tie up big tractors at busy times cost money for extra fuel and extra man-hours. That's where a nimble, pint-sized riding tractor like Farmette :omes in. Farmette is narrow enough to slip between rows of standing corn or pass through a footpath gate, and it's ideal for mowing fence rows and plowing snow
end of the rod passes through a hole drilled in a bracket piece as shown. A wire cable, passing through an awning pulley on the bracket, is attached to the adjustable collar. The free end of the cable is hooked to a con:rol lever near the driver's seat. Moving the lever swings the power take-off assembly inward toward the tractor frame, slackening the V-belt. This whole driving assembly and clutch mechanism is shown clearly in the perspective view, Fig. 4. Speed range is from 1 to about 20 miles per hour. Before cutting the parts it's a good idea to have all the necessary materials at hand, including the engine, such pulleys as are specified, belts, frame members, steel plates and the rear axle, wheel disks and tires. Looking over the cutaway view, Fig. 2, you get a good idea of what is needed. One of the first questions that comes up is the rear-wheel tread. By using "dished" trucktype wheel disks the tread can be varied by simply reversing the wheels and, if you expect to use Farmette as a cultivating tractor in narrow-rowed truck crops, this also must be taken into account in figuring the wheel tread. The axle can be any length up to the full tread width but of course the narrower tread is handier in close quarters. Where the axle housing is cut down it will be necessary to turn new axles. This is better than cutting and welding the original axles. With the axle cut down to the tread width you require, weld lengths of angle iron to the axle housing. These form mounting brackets for the longitudinal frame members, Fig. 2. The latter should be cut from seasoned oak, 2 by 3 in. sectional size. These frame members in the original
tractor are 78 in. long but some variation in length is possible. Don't attach frame members to the rear-axle brackets until you are sure of the exact location of the axle. Next, assemble the frame as in Fig. 2 and the down view in Fig. 7. Then assemble the steering gear and front-wheel fork. The complete gear from a 1928 Chevrolet truck, including the wheel, spark and gas control levers, steering-wheel column and the stub shaft, are used. The steering-gear housing is supported on a length of 1 -in. pipe which screws into a pipe flange welded to the steel plate as indicated. The steering shaft, which is welded to the wheel fork, passes through this column. A ball thrust bearing carries the front end of the frame. One bearing race is welded to the wheel fork, the other to the bottom of the steel plate which forms the lower front cross member of the tractor frame. Now comes the transmission-to-rearaxle hookup. Block the frame level and clamp the frame side members to the rearaxle brackets. Then the splined shaft projecting from the front end of the transmission is turned down to 1 in. in diameter, and a *4-in. keyway is cut to a length that will take two separate keys, one for each pulley. The front end of the shaft is carried on a self-aligning ball-bearing pillow block as in Fig. 4. Put on the 12-in. cast-iron drive pulley first and key in place, then the 4%in. V- pulley which drives the power takeoff. This means a careful job of machining. Locate the transmission between the frame members, blocking it in position if necessary, and hook up to the rear axle. Make a careful adjustment for alignment. When
33
you're sure of this, mark the location, of bolt holes for brackets supporting the transmission, the pillow-block bearing at the front of the transmission, and also the bolt holes through the rear-axle brackets and sideframe members. One thing to look out for here is the alignment of the rear axle with the transmission. This is especially important because the axle is not sprung to the frame in the regular way, hence the transmission and drive-shaft housing are rigid when assembled. When you locate holes for bolts through the platform plate, side frames and axle brackets be sure that the
parts fit snugly together so that when these parts are bolted in place there will be no strain or twist on the axle housing. It may be necessary to shim slightly under one or the other of the side frames. Care in welding to make sure that the brackets are exactly in line -will generally make shimming unnecessary. After bending the front wheel fork to shape as in Fig. 8, the next step is locating the holes for the wheel spindle. On the original tractor the rear tires are 6.50 by 20 in. and the front tire 4.00 by 8 in., as given in Fig. 2. These sizes stand the tractor level. When you know the tire size
measure and drill holes in the front-wheel fork for the 'wheel spindle. The nut on the spindle should be cotter-pinned as shown. This last step puts the frame on wheels and leaves the engine mounting, hood and grille and other small parts yet to be made and assembled. High-speed air-cooled engines of the type used on the original tractor generally are self-contained units with fuel tank, air cleaner and other parts either built in or attached directly to the engine itself. In order to get the engine properly positioned over the transmission drive pulley it will be necessary, on most engines of
Above and below are views of the simple clutch assembly and power take-off drive. Clutch is pedal operated and is nothing more than an idler pulley which serves the dual purpose of belt tightener and clutch. Releasing pressure of the idler allows the flat belt to slip, thus stopping the tractor
this type, to remove the fuel tank and mount it on the dash as in Figs. 2 and 5. But before the fuel tank is placed get the engine in position. Be sure that the pulleys line up properly, then locate and drill holes for the mounting bolts. Bolt the engine in place. It may be necessary to provide an extension for the air cleaner as it should be located above the hood as in Fig. 2. The extension should be a tight fit on the original tube so that there are no air leaks between the cleaner and carburetor. The dash, Fig. 2, is cut from -in. waterproof plywood and is attached to the frame with angle brackets as shown. The steering column is supported in a U-shaped notch cut in the dash. The fuel tank is mounted on the dash as in Fig. 2. Probably you can make use of the original brackets in mounting the tank but it may be necessary to use spacers. These can be cut from % or %-in. pipe to whatever length is required. The fuel tank should be located at about the same height in relation to the engine as it was on the original engine mountings. It also may be necessary to install new copper tubing from the tank to the carburetor. Fig. 8 gives general dimensions of the hood frame, which is made of hardwood. The parts are held in place with metal angle brack-
36
ets as shown. Hood and grille are of sheet metal and a clean, neat job of rorming these parts adds much to the appearance of the tractor. Unless, of course, you have facilities for working sheet metal you'll want to take this job to your local tinsmith. The idler pulley which runs on the drive belt serves the two-fold purpose of maintaining the proper tension on the belt and providing the clutching action when starting the tractor under load. Use a pulley fitted with oilless bushings. The pulley should run on a hollow shaft provided with a pressure grease fitting. The drive belt should be of fullgrain leather running with the hair side next to the drive pulleys. To avoid pounding of the idler pulley the lacing should be made carefully so that it will be flat. After the new belt lias been in use a few hours it will be necessary to adjust the idler-pulley tension springs to compensate for stretch of the belt. The idler support arms are mounted on a short cross shaft, one end of which is inserted in a hole drilled in the transmission support as in Fig. 2. The other end of the shaft is carried in an angle bracket welded to the pillow-block bearing support as in Fig. 4. Collars hold both shaft and arms in position. Note the belt guide in Fig. 4. Next comes the pulley, or flywheel guard, Fig. 2. This is made from 12-gauge sheet steel, welded, and it is bolted directly to the tractor frame. Be sure the
slot for the power take-off drive belt is large enough to clear the belt. The power take-off assembly as you see it in Figs. 2, 4 and 5 is optional equipment, but of course is essential for driving any mounted machine such as the frontmounted mower in Fig. 1. The swinging drawbar enables you to make short turns with pulled equipment, Fig. 6. To finish up, there remain the installation of the clutch pedal, brake pedals, linkage and driver's seat, connecting a control lever on the steering column to the throttle and installing a choke control on the dash. Installation of the clutch pedal is very simple, as you can see from Fig. 2. Adjust the brakes so that they apply equally on both rear -wheels. Install an implement seat as in Fig. 2. Then fit the drawbar as detailed in Fig. 2 and there you are, ready for work. Two coats of outdoor enamel applied with a spray gun make a fine-appearing job and help to prevent rusting of bare metal. And if you want the maximum in tractive effort the rear tires should be of the cleated-tread type supplied for farm tractors. On some jobs dual tires on the rear wheels and an oversize balloon tire on the front wheel make the best combination, especially where light-footedness and easy maneuverability are the first requirement. Also, -weight can be added by filling the tires with a nonfreezing solution.
SURPLUS and SALVAGE PROJECTS
Here's What It Costs

For less than $175, including a new engine, you can have Pow'r Pup rolling in your yard or garden. You can hold costs below this figure by doing all the work yourself, or you can buy some of the harder-to-make components listed so that construction becomes primarily an assembly job. Your actual cost may therefore range from below $175 to $350, and your finished Pow'r Pup will be comparable to commercial garden tractors selling at $500 to $600.
SuburbanTractor
Will: mow the lawnhaul leavesdo light grading bulldoze snowroll the lawnplow gardenpull a disc or harrowcultivate cropspull a seedertow a sled
By S. S. MINER
OT a toy, but a real man-sized tool, the Pow'r Pup goes a step beyond the straddle-type tractors now in widespread use and brings to the home workshopper, for home construction, a rugged, simple, and economical machine for yard and garden work and for leisure enjoyment too. Many Sears tractor attachments will fit it, and you can build it for $175 or less. Based on used car parts (widely available in junk yards) and various components from Sears Roebuck Co., it is extremely stable and maneuverable. With three speeds forward plus reverse, it will do any job from light hauling to heavy plowing. The design calls principally for cutting, drilling, and welding operations. By special arrangement, a supplier has been established for components you may wish to buy rather than make (see Materials List). The design is flexible enough to permit a wide choice of automotive parts: you could base a small tractor design on almost any manual-shift transmission and symmetrical rear end, and many small air-cooled engines from 3 to 10 hp would be suitable. However, any departure from the design given here will require careful study of the problems involved. If you make changes, keep in mind that the ready-made parts listed will fit only the Pow'r Pup as designed. Your First Step in building the Pow'r Pup is to locate the used drive-train parts from the right vintage Ford. These need not be in first class condition when you buy them and probably will not be, but be sure you get, from one source or another, all the essen-
121
Craft Print Project No. 321
TRACTOR STEERING WHEEL ADAPTED TO STUDE STEERING GEAR 3 TO 10 UP AIR COOLED ENGINE TRACTOR SEAT AND SPRING THROTTLE A-FRAME
7 . 5 0 / 1 5 OR 16 KNOBBY REAR TIRES 2- STAGE SPEED REDUCTION & SLIPPING BELT CLUTCH MOTOR MOUNT '51 TO'53 STUDEBAKER STEERING COMPONENTS
38" TREAD
LOCKHEED MASTEB BRAKE CYLINDER 33 70 48 FORD REAR END AND DRIVE 5HAFT, '32 TO '38 TRANSMISSION DRIVE SHAFT AND AXLES SHORTENED
BATTERY SPACE IF NEEDED 16X4 FRONT WHEELS RETAINING COLLAR
5 2 " WHEELBASE ROLL PIN RETAINING COLLAR
tial parts: a transmission, driveshaft and housing, universal joint and joint cover, and rear end complete with drums and internal brake parts. Lay all this loot out on the ground somewhere and clean off the outside (it will probably be pretty dirty) with a putty knife and kerosene, or use a commercial degreaser. Before taking the parts into your workshop drain the rear end and transmission. Then remove the two axle housings from the differential housing. In these earlier Fords, the bevel pinion gear at the inner end of the axle shaft is forged directly on the end of the axle itself, hence the axle housing must be removed from the differential housing, and the differential carrier must be taken apart in order to withdraw the axles. Disassemble
the rear end, clean up the axles and housings preparatory to working on them, and unfasten the backing plates and lay them aside. First Job is to Cut the spring perch arm (Fig. 2B) off each axle housing. Hack saw it as close as possible to the housing bolting flanges. Then cut a section out of the axle housing itself close to the bolting flange (Fig. 3A) with a hack saw, or in a power cut-off saw if one is available. The amount to be removed will depend upon two things: the rear wheel tread of the original car, and the tractor tread width desired. Half the difference between these two dimensions is the amount to cut out. Make these cuts at 90 to the centerline of the housing. Check one of the brake backing plates to see that it is not bent, then bolt the cut-off
housing end to it. Support this on blocking and clamp the axle housing in assembled position with three 1/4-in. rods, hooked at one end and threaded at the other (Fig. 3). Check with a carpenter's square and steel tape to determine parallelism and proper centering of the backing plate and bell flange. Be sure to align the wheel cylinder opposite one hole of the bell flange so that when assembly is completed the wheel cylinders will be at the top on each side. An alternate alignment method is to clamp the bell flange of the axle housing to the face plate of a large lathe and support the cut-off housing end in aligned position on an arbor.
In either case, once proper alignment has been achieved, weld the two parts together, tack-welding first on opposite sides to avoid distortion. Shorten both axle housings in this manner. There are Three Methods (Fig. 3B) for shortening the axles themselves: 1. Cut them off to the desired length, retaper and thread the ends; 2. Cut a section out and butt-weld the remaining portions together; and 3. Cut a section out, slip a perforated sleeve over the cut ends, and weld together. For the amateur the third method is easiest but has the disadvantage (with the Ford axle) that the inner shaft bearing and other parts must be
slipped over the axle before the sleeve is welded on, and they can never be removed. The second method is best for those with the necessary welding skill but no lathe. Choose the method best suited to your skills and tools, then shorten both axles by the same amount that you shortened the housings. Similar problems will be encountered in shortening the driveshaft and torque tube. The front end of the Ford torque tube contains a roller bearing race; therefore the portion removed must be back of this, preferably at the rear end of the tube (Fig. 3). Bolt the rear tube-flange to the differential housing and lay the assembly on a flat surface to secure proper alignment while welding. Since both ends of the Ford driveshaft are splined, the method chosen for shorten-
ing it will probably be #2 or #3 (above), rather than # 1 , to avoid the problem of resplining a cut-off end. The sleeve method will be satisfactory for this shortening operation as it will not interfere with assembly or disassembly. Remember to remove the same amount from the shaft as from the tube. After the shortening operations are completed, coat all parts with a film of grease and reassemble. Now, before going further with the reassembly, check the brake drums, shoes, and cylindersthese will probably need reconditioning. Worn shoes can be relined or replaced (see Materials List), and scored drums can be turned at your local automotive repair shop. Finish the assembly of the rear end after overhauling the brakes.
Next Job is the Frame (Fig. 4). If you are going to take this part of the job to a com-
MATERIALS LIST POW'R PUP
SURPLUS and SALVAGE PROJECTS mercial welding shop, you will save time and money if you get all parts cut to length first. Cut front axle parts at this same time, and have both welding jobs done in one visit to the welder. Check the drawings to determine according to your facilities which holes in the various weldments you will drill before welding, and which afterwards. Take pains to get the frame corners square and the side rails parallel when clamping up, as there will be no way of correcting a crooked frame after welding. Note that in the boxed construction of the front cross member and the front axle the angle iron flanges are lapped so as to keep a 2-in. vertical dimension through these parts. Before welding on the spindle bushing supports to the axle ends, make the spindle bushings (Fig. 4A) and position them in the supports when clamping up, to make it possible to check the spindle and caster angles. Bend the Wheel Spindles to a 105 angle (Fig. 4B), first heating them with a welding torch to a bright red at the point of bend. Then weld heavy steel washers to the spindle to form the shoulders (Fig. 4B). Weld the axle pivot pin to the front cross member, spaced from it with a 1/4-in.-thick pad, so that the axle and front cross member will lie in the same plane. Slip the axle onto the pivot pin and secure the retaining collar with a 1/4-in. bolt (Fig. 4C). It may be necessary to ream or hone out the spindle bushings because of distortion caused by welding. Make the fit of the spindle in the bushings fairly free, then drill and tap Zerk fitting holes in the rear sides of the bushings. Install the front wheels and spindles now, withr brass thrust washers where shown (Fig. 4A), and fasten the wheel retaining collars with 3/16-in. roll pins. Make the motor mount according to Fig. 4D for the Sears 5.75 engineotherwise modify it to suit whatever engine you have chosen. Prop the Rear End of the frame up at the proper height (10 in.). Notch the transmission bell with a hacksaw to clear the frame side rails (Fig. 5), then set the transmission in place. Make two short sleeves (Fig. 5) and secure them with 3/8-in. bolts (in the old clutch pivot holes in the transmission) to holes drilled in the tractor frame. These support the front end of the transmission. Its rear end is supported on two clips (Fig. 4D) and bolted there with 1/2-in bolts. Bring the rear end and driveshaft into position, engage the universal joint, and center up the differential housing in the frame. Jam four pieces of 1 x 1 x 1/8-in. angle iron under the tapered axle-housings and weld them in place. Mark and drill holes for the U-bolts (Fig. 4D), then fasten the whole rear end in solidly. Now you can put on the automobile rear wheels and lug tires, and roll the unit about the shop on its own wheels.
Make a clamping plate (Fig. 3) and secure the Sears tractor spring and seat on the drive shaft housing. Later you can slide this back or forward to get the best position. Heat the shift lever to a cherry red at two places, and bend it to the dog-leg shape shown in Fig. 2. You will have to cut off the end, too, and re-thread it for the shift knob. Now for the Steering. The mechanism used was taken in its entirety from a 1952 Studebaker (any Stude, '51 through '53, has the right gear). Be sure to get the steering knuckle arms, both tie rods, the connecting rod, steering gear box, the end of the intermediate arm, and six tie rod ends. Cut the knuckle arms and weld them to collars (Fig. 4A) so that the tie rod end centers will be 4 in. from the spindle center lines. Cut the tie rods in two, and lengthen them to 29 in. by
welding in pieces of 1/2-in. pipe. Cut the connecting rod and weld in a 6-in. piece of 3/8-in. rod bent to a 10 angle. Cut the pitman arm in two, lap it, and weld it to a 4-in. radius. Make the equalizing bar of 1/2 x 1-1/2-in. HRS.Weld the cut-off ends of the Stude intermediate steering arm to the equalizer bar, making certain you get the tapered holes big end up (Fig. 4E). Make the steering gear bracket and fasten it to the transmission housing in place of the old inspection plate. Cut the Stude steering column off 1-1/2-in. above the steering box, make the adapter to take the Sears steering column, and drill for 3/16-in. roll pins. The adapter will just fill the space between the steering box and the A-frame sleeve, a piece of 3/4-in. I.D. tubing welded to two pieces of 1 x 1 x 1/8-in. angle iron (Fig. 6). Assemble the steering
mechanism, adjust the drag link length to produce a 25 knuckle arm angle (Fig. 4A), and pin the knuckle collars to the spindles with two 3/16-in. roll pins each. This operation should be performed with steering wheel centered and front wheels pointed straight ahead. The Drive Mechanism is a two-stage reduction lowering engine speed (3600 rpm) to 375 rpm at the transmission input shaft. The Vbelted first stage functions as a clutch; the second stage is chain, for high torque. Make the jackshaft arm (Fig. 5A) out of 1/2 x1-1/2 HRS welded to a piece of 2-1/4-in. O.D. x1-3/4 in. I.D. steel tubing. Make the jackshaft carrier out of the same 1/2 x 1-1/2 HRS stock.Turn a shoulder on the hub of the 6-in. diameter V-belt pulley to receive the 15 tooth sprocket (which will have to be bored out for this purpose) and braze the sprocket in place.
Press two flanged bronze bushings in the bore of the pulley, and mount the pulley on the carrier with a 2-1/4-in. long x 5/8-in diameter shoulder screw as the shaft itself. Then assemble this mechanism, with the chain adjusted to about 1/2-in. slack. Make the clutch parts next (Fig. 5B), assemble them, and bolt the toggle bracket and bracket stay to the transmission housing. If you are using the Sears engine, you can
With a 5.75-hp engine, the Pow'r Pup makes light work of a heavy job, turning an 8-in.-wide furrow 8 in. deep in medium sod with the Sears 6-in. plow.
position it on the mount according to Figs. 2 & 5. With other engines it will be necessary to check clearances on all sides of the engine and alignment of the drive pulley with the jackshaft pulley before drilling the mounting holes. To avoid interference with the grille, make a diagonal extension for the air cleaner (Fig. 2) if your engine requires it. Make the Hood Frame (Fig. 7) of 3/16 x 1in. HRS and 3/8-in. HRS rod bent and welded together. Cover it with sheet aluminum (see Materials List) carefully bent around the frame and secured at the bottom with #10-24 rh screws and nuts. Trim the metal far enough from the frame edge so you can form it around the frame members to finish off and secure it. Make the grille of 1/2-in. expanded metal, or perforated aluminum sheet, and secure it in place with #10 rh screws 1/2 in. long, and nuts. Make a 10-in. diameter ring of 1/4-in. or 3/8in. steel rod and braze it to the surface of the grille, centering it laterally and positioning it vertically so as to clear the starting mechanism of the engine. Then cut out the portion of the grille inside the ring, hammer down the cut edges and cover them with braze where necessary. If your grille is aluminum, simply trim it about 3/4 in. inside the ring and form it back over the ring.
Place the Hood in position on the tractor and push it backward far enough so the starter pull rope is freely accessible through the grille opening, then mark for, and drill and tap, the hood pivot-bolt holes (Fig. 4D). Then locate and bolt on (or weld) the rear hood support clips (Fig. 4). Make the brake pedal (Fig. 3), of 1/2 x 1-in. HRS and pivot it to the right side of the frame. Mount a Lockheed (or similar) master cylinder well back on the frame and make a %-in. diameter brake push rod to connect the pedal with the cylinder. Connect the master cylinder by means of regular steel tube brake line, including a tee fitting, to both rear wheel brake cylinders. Install a throttle control (see Materials List) on the A-frame and connect it to the engine carburetor. Use a similar control for the choke, if desired. This Completes the Mechanical Work on the Pow'r Pup. Now clean up the whole machine and paint it with good quality machine enamel (see Materials List). Before starting the tractor, service it completely. The following article will tell how to make and use the various attachments the Pow'r Pup is designed for.
Putting Pow'r Pup to Work

Part 2
Mowing the lawn is not a choreit's fun with Pow'r Pup. Castering wheels make it possible to push most mowers. Separate mower engine is a great advantage when working around trees and when backing up. The mower keeps on cutting, regardless of tractor speed.
HEN you have completed the mechanical work on Pow'r Pup, as described in the preceding article, there is one additional feature, the rear wheel fenders, that should be added. These protect you from being jostled against the wheels when riding on rough or muddy ground. Make them out of 1/2-in. black iron pipe (Fig. 5A), covered with sheet metal. After cutting the pipe to the required lengths, bend the four long pieces with a plumber's hickey to the radius shown. File or grind the ends of the transverse pieces to fit between the curved upright members and weld them in place. Make the four 1/4 x2in. hot rolled steel clips and bolt them to the bottom ends of the fender frames. Then weld the clips to the brake backing plates, positioning the top pipe of the fender frame about 1 in. above the tire. Cover the frames with 16 gage black iron sheet, securing it with #10 x 1/2-in. self tapping screws. Smooth up all rough edges on the fenders, then paint them to match the tractor.
You Can Use Pow'r Pup, with a variety of
plows, mowers, and other gardening tools already on the market, many of which are available second hand. For lawnmowing, either pull or push-type reel mowers or rotary mowers can be adapted for use. Fig. 1 shows a Sears Roebuck 24-in. rotary mower attached to the front axle of the tractor with the hitch in Fig. 5C. Several Sears mowers can be used with this hitch or with slight modifications of it. Make this hitch of 2 x 2 x 1/4-in. angle iron, cut, drilled, and welded as shown. Attach the Sears mower to it with the 1/4 x 2-in. HRS strap. The clamping plates (Fig. 5C) permit the mower to be lined up with either the left or right wheels of the tractor for cutting along shrubbery and walls. The front end of the Sears mower is supported with two castering forks and brackets (see Materials List) bolted to the holes originally provided for the adjustable mower wheels. The mower wheels themselves can be mounted in the forks, using 3/8-in. bolts as axles. Lead the mower throttle control back to a convenient point on the hood, as seen in Fig. 1.
Rear-Attaching Imple-
129
Grading is another heavy job Pow'r Pup revels in. Shown is the Sears snow blade, used here for smoothing off recent earth fill. When winter comes, Pow'r Pup really comes into its own, taking all the strain out of that winter back breaker, snow removal.
130
Small-scale farming is well within the scope of Pow'r Pup. You can plow over an acre a day, and disk it too, doing a first-class job of seedbed preparation.
ments should be hitched to the tractor tow bar (Fig. 3). If you wish to use Sears garden tractor implements, make the adapter shown in Fig. 5B, which provides the sloping surface required by the Sears implement hitch. Mount the adapter on the center of the tow bar for most implements, but toward the right side for the plow, so the right wheels of the tractor will run in the old furrow, while the plowshare cuts a new furrow and throws the dirt directly behind the right wheel (Fig. 6). It will be necessary to straighten the handle of the Sears implement hitch so it will miss the right fender when the handle is swung forward. Do this with a welding torch, or simply cut off the bent part with a hacksaw. To use the Sears bulldozer with Pow'r Pup, make the adapter (Fig. 5D) using a piece of the Sears 'dozer hitch with a welded-on strap. Bolt this to the implement cljps on the tractor front axle. Bend the 'dozer operating handle to the right to clear the tractor hood (Fig. 4). For a Decorative Finishing Touch, add the Pow'r Pup emblem to the sides of the hood, following the 2-in.-sq. layout in Fig. 2. Reverse the design (except for the name) on the left side of the hood so the Pup will be pulling forward. Whatever you use Pow'r Pup for, remember it is a real machine, not a toy. Study Fig. 3 to see why it is necessary always to hitch pull-loads below the axle center. Most instances of turning tractors over come from ignoring this simple rule. Pow'r Pup, with its low-slung weight and spread-out wheelbase, is a very stable tractor, much more so than the average straddle-type garden tractor with its high center of gravity. So use care and common sense, and you will derive years of pleasure and service from Pow'r Pup.
Thorough disking breaks up the clods so small rootlets can get a start. Note the straightened lifting handle. Pulling it forward lifts the implement (plow or disk) when turning at the end of the row.
Sears Implements Useable with Pow'r Pup

*24-in. Mower (or similar style) *6-in. Plow *30-in. Disc Harrow *42-in. Snow Blade 34-in. Drag Harrow Straddle-Row Cultivator *Caster fork and bracket (one RH, one LH req'd) from 32F54SIN mower Caster wheels and tire (2 req'd) 9936M , W99A9125N W32F9812N W32F9813N W32F9810N W32F9814N W32F9817N 575PAS26
*3-point plow hitch W32F9811C (Also, any pull-tool such as carts, seeders, rollers, etc.) *These implements and parts are seen in the photographs accompanying this article.
TRACTOR SCRAPER
made in farm shop
YOU can make this tractor scraper easily in your farm shop at low cost for materials. It's especially designed for moving loose soil, leveling large areas before planting, light grading, preparing fields for irrigationany leveling or filling job where loose dirt, gravel or sand must be moved or leveled quickly at a minimum cost in labor and time. Although shown arranged for two-man operation it can be handled by one man on occasional jobs by fitting a footlift mechanism as suggested in Fig. 1, which shows a lift linkage designed for hand or foot operation. With minor changes this linkage can be fitted to most tractors of cultivating height and having sidemounting frames. Fig. 1 also shows the assembly of the scraper body, which consists of a steel scraper blade and two hardwood boards held in place
Photo and certain details courtesy State College of Washington
with angle-iron "cleats." This construction serves the purpose on most jobs and greatly reduces the weight, thereby making the implement easier to handle. Start with the scraper body and assemble it before cutting any other parts to size. Place the scraper under the tractor on a concrete floor or other level surface and block it securely at an angle of about 15 deg. as in Fig. 2. Be sure to get the assembled scraper blade centered under the tractor. With the blade thus in working position you can determine the exact length of the parts of the lift linkage, Fig. 1, and the dual drawbars, Fig. 4. Dimensions of these parts have been
purposely omitted as these measurements must be taken direct from the tractor on which the scraper is to be mounted. Ordinarily the lift linkage should be so assembled as to give a lift of about 3 in. above the ground when the tractor is on the level, Fig. 2. Of course, a higher lift can be arranged if desired. On some tractors it may be necessary to make the scraper body of a lesser height than indicated in order to allow room for the higher lift. Figs. 3 and 5 show how the drawbars are attached to the scraper and the tractor frame. Use lock washers under all nuts so that parts do not jar loose.
BALED-HAY CART saves heavy lifting

FARMERS, poultrymen and feed dealers who have occasion to transport individual bales of hay or straw will have regular use for this unusual bale cart. It straddles the bale and carries it suspended in a welded frame in a manner similar to a lift truck. The method of loading the bale is pictured in Fig. 1, and construction details and dimensions of the cart are given in Fig. 2. Note that the complete frame is made from 3/4-in. pipe with all joints welded and that it consists of two similar frames, one above the other with pipe spacers welded between. The lower frame has one open end, permitting the cart to straddle the bale when loading. While it is possible to mount bicycle wheels on stub axles as indicated, a stronger straddletype mounting is shown in the lower left-hand detail. Note that the sharpened metal spurs on the hinged bracket at the front of the frame are welded on at an angle of about 30 deg. so that when the bracket is lowered the spurs will engage the bale and support it in the horizontal position with ample ground clearance when the cart is tilted for transport, as in one of the illustrations at the right. MARCH 1951 .
215
By MAURICE ORLAREY
Technical Art by Peter Trojan
IFTING a heavy bulldozer blade manually is for the birds even when it's only a fairly small one on a garden tractor. Pulling a lever to raise and lower the blade can make you armweary after only a few hours of grading or snow pushing. That's why I decided to do it the easy way and add a hydraulic lift so a mere push of a button would lift and lower the blade. Now I feel like a big-time heavy-equipment operator! The first step I took to add this pushbutton convenience was a trip to the local junkyard to pick up the power
unita hydraulic system from the convertible top of a car. (The one I selected happened to be from an Oldsmobile.) For a total cash outlay of $10 I purchased: Motor, pump, reservoir unit. Cylinder with bottom plate. Hydraulic hose. Wiring and dashboard switch for above motor. Since at this point I wasn't sure whether one cylinder would provide enough muscle for the job, I also bought the second cylinder (manufac-
CYLINDER BOTTOM ARMS are attached to plate with bolt and to cylinder with shaft, washer and cotter pin
BLADE RESTING ON GROUND exposes -in. threaded rod. Extended down, it allows room for adjustment 174
turers use two per car) for an additional $2. As it turned out, one cylinder was sufficient. It will, in fact, effortlessly raise and lower the blade at a touch of the button, even with an average-size male sitting atop the blade. Recognizing that prices can vary and probably will, depending upon the number of junkyards in a particular geographical location, a visit to your local junkyard for a materials price quote before starting the job is a practical approach. Some changes on the manual lifting unit were necessary so that the cylinder could be fitted in place. First, I had to disassemble the lifting lever and linkage that connects it to the upper-lift frame. Then, using x 1 x 14-in. flat iron, I made a flat brace (Detail F) and fastened it to the tractor as shown on page 173. Finally, I fastened the cylinder base to the upper and lower braces. The cylinder that I bought came equipped with a base plate which was adaptable to my tractor when bottom arms were added. If this part is missing on the unit that you purchase, you can make the alternate base plate shown in the lower left-hand comer on page 173. With this version, the bottom arms can be eliminated since the cylinder-holding UPOPULAR MECHANICS
channel provides ample swing-clearance. The motor-pump reservoir unit fits snugly under the tractor hood (see drawing shown above). On my rig it had to be positioned on the top left side of the en,gine between the air cleaner, gas tank and left headlight. To make room, it was necessary to move the air-cleaner cover slightly to the right. Current draw is given at about 35 amps, which is no problem for my 12-v. heavyduty battery. The "on" time is very short since the blade is lifted at a speed of roughly 2 in. per second. If your blade doesn't stay up, due to slow leakage through the pump, it can be corrected by stiffening the pivot points of the upper and lower frames by inserting spring lock washers under the bolt heads. All of the dimensions shown were determined by trial-and-error fitting as I built the lift to suit the tractor (Sears 10hp XL). For other makes I would recommend experimenting with cardboard and/ or plywood templates to check for fit and clearance before cutting, shaping and welding the iron. Working at a leisurely pace, I completed the setup in my spare time. I'm so pleased with the results that I feel it borders on understatement to say that my effort was worth every minute. ***
JUNE 1970
WITH THREADED ROD almost vertical, floating arm position indicates that the blade is free to float.
POWER UNIT fits neatly under hood on engine's left side when air cleaner was moved slightly 75
ELECTRICAL AND HOSE CONNECTIONS Green wire to switch

Red wire to switch Yellow wire, switch to pos. ( + ) Hydraulic hose Cylinder Black Wire to neg. (+) 3 / 8 " hose clamp
Switch, up to raise blade, down to lower blade.
Plug, made from
T-fitting
"-20 x " screw.
AFTER CUTTING HOSE to unused second cylinder, plug T-fitting with -in.-diameter bolt and 3/8-in. clamp.
3/8 dia.
DETAIL A Tap -13 (through) 1-" 1-1/8" 2-1 /4" 3 - 3/4"
H Y D R A U L I C Floating arms See det.
L I F T
See detail A
DETAIL
3/8 dia. 1-1/2"
See detail B
15/16" 3/16" 11/16" 1-1/2" 1-1/4" 5/8"
Z-brace
1/2" - 13 threaded rod. 9" long
3"
DETAIL C 3/8" dia. To front 1 - " Cylinder See detail D 3/8" 1 - 1/8" 2-3/8" DETAIL See detail E D 7-5/16" 3/4" steel pipe 1/2" dia. hole
See detail F 3 - 21/32" 70 3/16" dia. 1/4" deep (To hold nut when tightening bolt) 7/8" DETAIL E 1" dia.
Pipe pivots
around nuts both ends.
Bottom arm
13/16" dia.
1/2" dia. 7" Cylinder base plate

Z-brace 1/4" flat steel
1/4"
Tap 7/16"-14 1-1/8"
2"
Alternate cylinder base plate 1/4" dia.
75
2 - 15/32"
Hole
location to suit cylinder
5/8" 3/8" - dia. 1-1/4" 1-1/4"
1-1/2" 3/8 dia. 1-1/2"
3/4" 1" 3/4" 3/8" dia. 1 - 15/16" DETAIL F 3/4" 6-5/8"
5-5/8"
1/2"
1-1/4" 1- 1/16"
JUNE
1970
173
LIMESTONE SPREADER
Saves, Time and Material
ground fertilizing material such as rock or lime phosphate, limestone, etc. It is made almost e n t i r e l y of wood, only a few pieces of flat iron, rods and bolts being required. It will operate satisfactorily at speeds up to 10 m.p.h. Fig. 1 shows the spreader in use on a truck, but it operates equally well on a r u b b e r - t i r e d tractor trailer or an ordinary farm wagon. About all t h a t is necessary to adapt it is to change the l e n g t h of the h a n g e r s and perhaps the "knocker" or agitator arm. On a farm wagon, the knockerarm contacts on the wheel can be clamped to the spokes. The hopper, Fig. 3, is 12 ft. long overall and is divided into four compartments. The compartments add to the strength of the assembly and also make it easier to keep a uniform amount of material in the hopper. However, the hopper can be made somewhat longer or shorter, and wider at the top and deeper if desired. In any case the inside width at the bottom should be 2-1/2 in. The ends of the lower and HERE'Sl i na gpracticala d e r inexpensive s p r e for h a n d any finely-
57
boards are notched to take a 2 by 4-in. block as shown. Be sure the partition pieces are all the same size, and before assembling paint all joining edges with an oil paint. Use screws in assembling. They hold much better than nails. Plane the edge of each of the bottom boards flush with the partition pieces so that the bottom of the hopper is square across. Parts shown in Figs. 2 and 5 can be made by a blacksmith or a welder. Two each of parts A in Fig. 2 are required, but only one each of
58
parts B, and one eyebolt and rod as shown in Fig. 5. This latter part is assembled at the center of the hopper. Parts A and B of Fig. 2 are shown in position in Figs. 6 and 7. The agitator consists of two lengths of 2 by 4-in. stock assembled with bolts as in Fig. 6. The lower stiffener is tapered from the center toward the ends. Although not essential, the tapers cut down the weight somewhat without weakening the piece. Note, in Fig. 6, the position of the center pivot, which is detailed in Fig. 5. The exact position of the agitator arm is not given as this has to be determined by measurements taken directly from the truck, trailer or wagon on which the spreader is to be used, Once the location is determined the arm is bolted in place as shown in Fig. 4. It's s good idea to use waterproof glue in all joints of the hopper and agitator. Fig. 8 suggests cne way of fitting a knocker disk to a rubber-tired wheel. Of course, the construction of the wheel will determine how the knocker disk is to be attached. On some types of disk wheels it is not necessary to drill holes for the knocker pins as there are equally-spaced openings near the rim. The knocker pins are lengths of 1/2-in. iron rod threaded from one end to such distance that they will pass through the disks and project about 6 in. as indicated. Be sure to cut an opening in the outer wood disk for the valve stem. A similar arrangement can be made for use on wood-wheeled farm wagons, using larger diameter wood disks. The hcpper is supported on hangers as in Figs. 9 and 11. Length of the hanger is not given as this has to be determined by
measurement of the wagon or truck. On a wagon or tractor trailer the hangers are simply hooked over the endgate, and on a truck they usually can be hooked to the bed. Ordinarily, the bottom of the hopper should be about 24 in. from the ground and in most cases two braces will be required to hold the hopper level as at A in Fig. 9. Nearly all users fit the hopper with a canvas dust shield as in Fig. 1. This prevents loss of the fine material. The completed spreader should be given two coats of oil paint to prevent warping and shrinking. To determine the setting for a given amount of fertilizer spread per acre, first draw the agitator snugly against the bottom of the hopper by turning down the nuts on the three eyebolts as in Fig. 4. Then release the nuts a given number of turns until the agitator moves freely without binding when actuated by the knocker assembly. This will give a check setting. Then fill the hopper with a known quantity of fertilizer and drive across the field until the spreader is empty. Measure the distance traveled in feet. Then multiply thewidth of the hopper by the distance traveled and divide by 43,560. As an example, assume that 300 lbs. of material in the 12-ft. hopper cover a strip 1820 ft. long; 1820 ft. multiplied by 12 ft. equals 21,840 sq. ft.;
21,840 divided by 43,560 equals .501, or approximately one half acre covered. More or less can be spread by adjusting the agitator. When you have the spreader adjusted for the amount or amounts desired, make index marks at the ends and center of the hopper as in Fig. 10. The marks then will enable you quickly to set the agitator to spread any given amount. Always adjust the center pivot whenever you change the setting of the end pivots.
Constructional details on limestone spreader printed by courtesy of the Agricultural Experiment Station, College of Agriculture, University of Illinois; Englert Engineering Co., Nashville, Tenn.; and Ruhm Phosphate and Chemical Co., Mt. Pleasant, Tenn.
A powerful midget, it shows what you can do with junk-yard bargains, a hacksaw, and a welding outfit. PS photos by W. W . Morris
OON after Paul E. Matous completed his $50 tractor, a friend's automobile got stuck in the mud. "As a gag, he yelled to me to come and pull him out," says Matous, a building contractor at Orangeburg, N. Y. "He thought I couldn't possibly move the car." Matous was doubtful too. After all, a tractor with a 7-hp. engine is no road-building giant. Another car already had failed to budge the stuck car, even with the
It weighs 450 lbs. One man can easily tip it over. But don't let that fool you about its stability. The builder reports it never "rears up."
MAY 1950 209
Individual brakes make short turns possible. Axle is hooked in notched frame, but U bolts, as in drawing at bottom of page, would be better.
Front-wheel assembly pivots on a boiler-plate "fifth wheel." A " rod through the 2" pipe ties assembly to boiler-plate engine mount.
help of a couple of well-muscled pushers. As Matous hooked on, the pushers winked at each other. But the little tractor buckled down and dragged the car free. Matous then turned to the others. "You guys certainly can push," he grinned. "Push!" one of them said. "We weren't pushing! We were riding!" Matous is a shrewd bargainer, as well as a good craftsman. Otherwise, he couldn't have kept the cost of his doodlebug so low. He paid only $35 for a surplus engine-a single-cylinder, air-cooled, four-cycle Briggs & Stratton. A Ford transmission, Ford steering gear, pre-war Austin rear end, and other parts came from a junk yard. In assembling these, Matous worked mostly with a hacksaw and welding outfit. No machining was required. The Matous tractor doesn't compare in looks with some of the commercial jobs, but its builder offers to bet it will easily outperform at least two famous makes. On that score, Matous argues with some authority. His main job several years ago consisted of repairing agricultural tractors. Matous is proud of the tractor's stability. By experimenting, he produced a nice balance between traction and power. For easy maneuvering, the wheelbase was kept short. But so far Matous has not found a situation that will cause the front wheels to leave the ground. Good weight distribution explains this. The engine rests as far forward on the frame
as he could get it. This shoves the balance point ahead, but there is no loss of traction. The operator's weight helps here. For some jobs, Matous adds about 100 lb. by filling the rear tires with water. Sprockets, countershaft, and chains carry the drive to the Model-A transmission. Speeds are about 10 m.p.h. in high, 4 m.p.h. in second, and 1 m.p.h. in low. A brake-equalizer hanger from a Ford V-8 provided a readymade countershaft bearing. The shaft itself is a 9" length of 7/8" rod, tapped " deep for setscrews that secure the sprockets. Each of the two bearing points was drilled and tapped for a grease fitting. Bolted through slots to its angle-iron mount, the countershaft hanger can be moved to adjust chain tension. When Matous set out to build the tractor, he intended to cut down a Ford rear end. But he decided to forego this job on finding
that an available Austin unit had the 44" tread he wanted. He installed this with considerable misgivings. But despite its lightness it has stood up well. Buick wheels at the rear take 7.00 by 15 mud-grip tires. Inflated to less than 10 lb., these put a large area of rubber on the ground. For some jobs, Matous puts on tire chains. The front tires are 4.00 by 8 (the wheelbarrow type), standing 16" high. These roll on a 1" axle, bent 10 for the proper camber. Welded to the center of the axle is a length of 2" pipe, welded and braced at the upper end to a 10" disk of " boiler plate. In operation, this disk bears against a sheet of " boiler plate that ties together the front end of the channel-iron frame. A " threaded rod, running down through the 2" pipe, holds the wheel assembly to the frame boiler plate. At the lower end, this rod is
MAY 1950 211
Homemade bulldozer attachment hangs on rear axle of tractor. As the sketch shows, Matous
made generous use of junked auto parts when building bulldozer as well as the tractor itself.
bent toward the rear to clear the axle. A nut on its end provides adjustment. The steering assembly came from a Ford V-8. After shortening the shaft to 24", Matous reversed and centered the steering arm. Then he attached the drag link to another steering arm welded to the disk. For the frame, Matous welded together bed-spring angles in channel form. The engine is bolted to the boiler plate that brackets the front end of the frame. For easy starting, the engine is located with the starting pulley overhanging the plate. The tractor has no bumper, but one could easily be added, as suggested in the drawing. At the present time, the lights draw juice directly from a 6-volt battery. The headlamps are back-up lights fitted with 32-candlepower bulbs. Future plans for the tractor include installation of a generator high up under the rear part of the hood. This part
is flat, and for a reason: it makes a convenient spot to lay tools or the gas-can cap. A remote control for varying the tension of the governor spring from the driver's seat is another proposed improvement. A third is a conveniently located toggle switch to stop the engine by shorting out the magneto. About the time Matous built the tractor he also bought a tract of rolling woodland. On this tract, which he refers to as his private Aberdeen proving ground, Matous has made the tractor a real workhorse. Among other jobs, he has used it to snake heavy logs, drag a heavily loaded trailer, and level off the ground with a homemade bulldozer blade. He hasn't yet gotten around to setting it to the routine small-farm and garden chores plowing, cultivating, mowing, and the likebut he feels confident the machine will take all these jobs in good stride. END
A shear pin protects power train. Universal joint was kept only to make assembly easier. Since rear is unsprung, it could be omitted.
A brake-equalizer hanger from a Ford V-8 supports the countershaft. Drive-chain tension is adjusted by moving the hanger in and out.
Clutch linkage is simple. When you press the pedal, a transverse bar pivots forward. Short arm depresses the button, disengaging clutch.
Sprockets and chains carry drive from engine to transmission. Sketch shows power train and clutch linkage from viewpoint directly above.
How to Build a Midget Tractor

You can look forward to those yard chores this coming spring with a motorized helper that takes over all the heavy work. By Howard G. McEntee
a in the garage, Dad WITH bebaby tractor toThis chores before will lucky to get the Junior beats him to it. husky little power wagon lets you do the hard work sitting down, and makes fun of it to boot. It has plenty of pep to drag a heavy lawn roller, pull a gang mower up slopes, draw a spiker or leaf sweeper, or hustle along a heavily loaded garden, cart. What's more, if you want to run a power saw, small concrete mixer or water pump where there is no electricity, you can drive the tractor to the spot and take power off the engine. The midget has enough getup to spin its wheels on a dry road, and upshifts on the run to attain respectable speeds. It is not meant for heavy work like plowing, deep cultivating or snow removal, which require a heavier frame, cleated tires and a greater engine-to-wheels reduction ratio. If built entirely of new parts, the tractor will cost about $150, a bargain in view of what it can do. Still, careful shopping and junk-box scavenging may cut that figure by a worthwhile margin. How the drive works. A l 1/2-hp., fourcycle engine, bought at a sale for $40, delivers all the torque that the tractor can
MARCH 1954 133
use. This power plant has magneto ignition, an air cleaner and a governor-controlled throttle. The hand throttle used by the driver merely changes the governor setting, so that engine speed remains constant at any load, an advantage on most jobs. A used engine of similar type will cut your cost considerably, but be sure to check the engine base and make any
changes in the chassis mounts necessary. The heart of the drive system, and the solution to the knotty problem of a differential (to allow the rear wheels to turn at different speeds on curves) is an automatic double centrifugal clutch. This drives two separate countershafts, from each of which a chain runs to one rear wheel. Each belt sheave on the clutch has one fixed flange or cone, and one movable one controlled by internal weights. When the engine is idling, the movable flanges are held back from the fixed ones and the belts are not gripped. As the throttle is advanced, centrifugal force causes the weights to pinch the flanges on the belts. As engine speed rises further, the flanges squeeze still closer and push the belt outward to a larger diameter, in effect changing the size of the drive pulleys. A pair of springtensioned idlers keeps the belts taut at all pulley positions. The clutch thus provides automatic up or down shifting to suit the load, giving
LONG MEMBERS of chassis are notched, bent and welded at rear corners. Front and lower rear crosspieces are full 13" width, overlap sidepieces to form closed corners. Top rear
184 POPULAR SCIENCE
crosspiece is shorter, fitting inside the 1 1 0 corners. Rear motor mount is narrowed for part of its length to clear belts. To make slots, drill several holes and file between.
the tractor the equivalent ot a transmission. On turns, the inside wheel tends to turn, more slowly and therefore down-shifts, while the outer one speeds up and goes into "high." There are no brakes, but the large engineto-wheel ratio supplies ample engine braking to hold the tractor even on a hill. No reverse is needed; it is possible to back up by pushing with both feet. For close maneuvering, you can easily swing the machine by lifting the front end. Start with the frame. This is of angle iron and can be riveted, bolted or welded together. Welding saves so much drilling, extra brackets and fussy joining that it is worth what it costs to have it done if you're not equipped to do it yourself. All the welding on the tractor shown came to $9. A welded frame will stay tight despite the shocks and torsion that it has to take in actual use. If you do have welding done, cut and fit all parts with care and clamp them in DIAGONAL BRACES are welded inside chassis
position insofar as possible before taking them to the welder. The less time he needs to spend on these preliminaries the less his work is liable to cost you. Drill as many holes as you can before assembly. Where holes must line up (like the ones for the rear axle), poke a rod or piece of shafting through when clamping up the parts. The steering gear, fork shaft and hood are supported by two square-cornered . frames, each made of a single length of 1" angle by notching and welding at the corners. Fitting the wheels. You will have to take apart the big wheels to mount the drive sprockets. As the tires bulge when the four bolts are loosened, disassembly will be easier if you first run a long bolt TIRES AND WHEELS are aircraft surplus. Air pressure of 10 or 15 lb. in tubes keeps wheels from slipping inside the casings. Each wheel consists of a pair of aluminum-alloy hubs, with ball bearings for 5/8" shaft, held together by four long bolts. Rear wheels are 14 1/2" in diameter. A 1/2" bolt serves as axle to hold 10" front wheel in the steering fork.
members. One flange of these (and of the center countershaft mount) is notched at bottom end to clear bottom crosspiece and axle.
MARCH 1954 |B5
It Hauls a Cart
through the bearings and tigliten a nut on it. The wheel hubs have a concentric shoulder, and if you have a lathe the sprockets can be bored to a close fit on this to make them run true. Any well-equipped garage or machine shop can do this for you. You can avoid machining by filing or sawing the sprocket to an oversize fit on the shoulder and drilling the bolt holes oversize. Mount the sprocket with spacers cut from 1/4" pipe, long enough to set the teeth out at least 5/8" from the tire. You'll have to replace the original wheel bolts with longer ones. Leave the nuts a bit loose. Set the wheel rotating on a 5/8" shaft. Then shift the sprocket about on the bolts, with taps of a soft hammer, until it runs perfectly true, and tighten the nuts securely. Take the time to do a good job, for an off-center sprocket will make the chain run noisily and wear rapidly. DRIVE SPROCKETS are mounted on rear wheels with 1/4"-by-6" bolts. Spacers cut from 1/4" pipe are slipped on the bolts first; they should be long enough to set sprocket 5/8" out from side of inflated tire. The distance from sprocket face to frame should be at least 7/8 ",. Ends of axle must. be squarely shouldered and threaded to provide for adjustment of ball bearings. To fac i l i t a t e assembly, clamp hubs with a bolt through the bearings.
The axle should be shouldered and threaded in a lathe. After it has been welded into the frame, slip a shaft collar on each end. Slide the wheels up against the collars and put enough washers between the wheels and nut to take all slack out of the bearings. Then back off each nut one notch and cotter-pin it. It is a good idea to pack the bearings with grease beforehand and put rings of heavy felt between them and the collars or washers to keep out dirt. The steering fork. The single front wheel is mounted in a fork bent cold from 3/8"-by-2" iron. A second similarly bent piece is welded inside to reinforce it. Both pieces are drilled 1/2" for the 3/4" fork shaft, which is 'shouldered to fit and welded both above and below. At the top, the shaft turns in a hole in the front hood frame. Below, it runs in a ball bearing recessed into a 1/2" plate (I used two 1/4" thicknesses of dural). In mounting the wheel, pull up the axle nut until the bearings have neither slack nor bind. Two bevel gears from an Easy washingmachine wringer connect the steering-wheel shaft to the fork. These gears have 15 and 25 teeth, or a ratio of less than 1 to 2. This makes steering quite sensitive, and you may prefer gears that give a larger
OVERSIZE HOLE, a free fit for 3/4," fork shaft, is drilled near flange corner of front frame crosspiece. A 1/2" thick plate to house the ball bearing is bolted under this. The fork is bent up of 1/8 " flat stock, with an extra piece welded inside the top leg. Shaft is turned or filed to a 1/2" shoulder where it enters the fork hole. Footrest hangers are welded inside the long chassis members..
7/8 hole inN CROSS MEMBER
SEPARATE COUNTERSHAFTS turn in ball-bearing pillow blocks. For long shaft on right side, these are mounted on center support and frame brace. For the short countershaft on left side, both blocks are mounted on a steel plate bolted to the left-hand frame brace. All bolt holes are slotted to provide for taking HOOD FRAMES are built up from 1" angle, notched and welded at corners. Front flange of forward frame is long enough to overlap the chassis crosspiece; other flange is notched to rest on top. Diagonal brace helps resist twist. Metal between saw cuts on top of dash frame is bent up to clear steering shaft. The
up chain at least one link length. Inner races of the bearings have protruding hubs with setscrews to lock shafts against end movement. File flats on shafts to give screws a good grip. Chain sprockets are secured with No. 0 taper pins, left one hub out to keep chain near frame despite bearing overhang. gears are held with taper pins. A spacer in front of the smaller gear maintains correct tooth mesh. Steering wheel was made by cutting alternate spokes out of a 10" pulley; use a cast-iron, not a die-cast pulley, for this. A piece of rubber tubing in the groove is wrapped with plastic tape to finish the rim.
ratio; 1 to 4 would be quite fast enough. Mounting the countershafts. These run in ball-bearing pillow blocks, which are easy to align and come sealed and lubricated for life. Slotted mounting holes in the chassis members allow for adjusting chain tension. The eight-tooth sprockets come only with a 1/2" hole, so if 5/8" countershafts are used they will have to be shouldered in a lathe to fit. An alternative is to use 1/2" countershafts, bearings and pulleys. Align countershaft sprockets carefully with the wheel sprockets. If these are well centered, the chains
need little slack. But they should not be tight. With the top of the chain taut, the bottom should have 3/4" up-and-down slack. Installing the engine. Slotted holes in the frame mounts allow for tensioning of the V belts. Align the 8" countershaft pulleys with the fixed cones of the clutch. Adjust the engine fore and aft so that the belts climb just to the outside of the fixed flanges when the sliding ones are at their closest. The idlers pivot on a shaft that runs across the frame below one engine mount. They are pulled upward against the outside of the belts by long springs attached to the dash frame. The rollers are ball bearings and must be about 7s" wide to keep the belts from sliding off when they shift sidewise because of the clutch action. You will find that the tension of the idler springs affects the ratio shift; if the clutch goes into "high" as soon as the engine speeds up slightly, idler tension should be increased. With the engine idling, the belts should be slack, so the idler brackets are fitted with stop screws. Adjust these so that the rollers put no tension on the belt when the clutch cones are wide open. The gas tank was removed from the engine and mounted under the hood of the tractor shown. A new lever was made for the governor spring, with a downward ex-
SPRING-TENSIONED IDLERS keep belts taut as automatic clinch shifts. Stops limit idler movement to let belts so slack as engine runs slow. Idler shaft, centered below front of rear motor mount, enters 1/2 " hole in right of frame. Left end shown is shouldered for 3/8" hole and threaded for a nut. To use engine for sawing wood and the like, centrifugal clutch must be pulled off shaft. Running it with belts off may cause internal damage.
188 POPULAR SCIENCE
FRONT-WHEEL TURN must be limited because centrifugal clutch cannot stop inner wheel dead. Stop is a l"-by-3" piece of flat iron bolted to fork shaft, which is tapped for the bolt. Swing of 45 each way gives good maneuverability. Exhaust pipe is clamped to frame with a U boll. Sheet-metal front is screwed to shaped wooden blocks bolted to crosspieces. Block on top, made from a twoby-four, is also shaped for 2" radius of hood.
tension having a hole for the throttle cable. The dashboard throttle is one made for power mowers and is connected to the governor lever. An auto-choke cable was cut short for the choke control, and a steel wire run to the stop lever on the engine. The seat. A comfortable motorcycle saddle provides springing and soaks up a lot of engine vibration. It is mounted on a 3' length of 5/8" steel rod welded to the crosspiece of the dash frame and to the top rear member of the chassis. The saddle can be adjusted fore and aft on this. Building the body. A panel of composition board is bolted to the rear of the chassis. The deck and sidepieces are bent from one piece of light sheet iron. A long slot in the back will let you worry this piece
around and under the tractor's seat bar. Pieces of wood rounded to shape are formers for the sheet-metal radiator and hood. I bent the hood metal over a rolling pin to a 2" radius, and rolled the straight edges over a piece of 1/8" iron wire. Clean all metal parts well; then apply metal primer and two coats of enamel. END
LIST OF MATERIALS
SOURCES from which many of the parts specified were obtained are noted below. Where source is not given, parts can be bought from local suppliers or .mail-order houses. ANGLE IRON: 11' of 1/8" x 1 1/2' x 1 1/2"; 15' of 1/8" x 1" x 1". STRAP IKON: 10' of Vs" x 1"; 4' of Vs" x 2"; 2 1/2' of 3/16" x 2". COLD-ROLLED STEEL ROD: 3' of V" dia.; 6' of 5/8" dia.; 18 1/2" of 3/4" dia. PIPE: 10" of 1/4"; 13" of 1/2; 3" of 3/4" i.d. tubing; two '1/2" elbows {one 90, one 45). WHEELS: Two 14 1/2" channel-trend tires with tubes, wheels and bearings for 5/8" axle. One 10" cliannel-tread tire with tube, wheel and bearings for 1/2" shaft. (Midget Motors Supply, Athens, Ohio.) ENGINE: Lauson RSC 1 1/2 hp,, four-cycle engine with governor, air cleaner, gas tank. CLUTCH: Dual centrifugal clutch for 5/8" shaft and 1/2 V belts. (V-Plcx Clutch Division, Hagerstown, Ind.) PULLEYS: Two 8" dia. for 5/8" shaft and 1/2" V belts. One 10" dia., cast iron, for 1/2" shaft. DRIVE: Two 1/2" V belts, 56" long. Three 5/8" .shaft collars. Three ]/' shaft collars. 7' of No. 41 roller chain and two connectors*. Two 8tooth sprockets. Diamond B-308*. Two 50tooth sprockets, Diamond A-350*. ( "11. M. Barwise, 75 Varick St., NYC.) BEARINGS: Four hall-bearing pillow blocks for 5/8" shaft No. 6-500-6. (Master Mechanic Mfg. Co., Burlington, Wis.) One unground flanged ball bearing for 3/4" shaft, 1 3/4" o.d., Nice No. 5891. Two high-speed, doublerow ball bearings 7/8" wide, Norma DF5. (Co-lumbo Trading Co., 383 Canal St., NYC.) . MISCELLANEOUS: Power-mower throttle, auto choke- cable, stop wire; bevel gears, 1:2 ratio or larger; heavy-duty motorcycle saddle (Midget Motors .Supply); 1/2" x 2" x 3" forkbearing plate (dural or steel); 2 sq. ft. 3/16" hard composition board; 7 sq. ft. 24-ga. sheet iron; two 1/4" x 7 1/2" idler springs; eight V," x 6" bolts and nuts: 25" of 7/8" o.d. conduit; 4' of 2-by-4 wood; two crutch tips; nuts, bolts, lock washers, wood screws, taper pins, cotter pins. 33" rubber tubing, tape, metal primer and auto enamel.
DASH FRAME also has shaped block bolted to it. Dashboard is 3/16" composition board. Deck and sides under the saddle bar are one piece of sheet metal, with narrow flange bent down at rear end to overlap rear panel, and a similar flange at front to slip under the dashboard. Chain guards must be strong enough not to bend and foul chains if stepped on. Make them of angle iron and mount with short brackets cut from the same stock.
MARCH 1954
By Manley Mills
the original machine at a total cost of less than $150. This included a number of items that were bought new, such as the 2 1/2 hp Briggs & Stra.tton engine, tires, countershaft bearings, pulleys and some of the raw metal stock. Naturally, this figure can be reduced by using second-hand materials on a larger scale. Although frequently mistaken for a factory-built machine, the tractor is built, entirely from materials that are cheaply and easily obtainable in most localities. Construction follows conventional practice and requires only hand tools for the greater part of the job. If you aren't equipped or qualified to do certain phases of the work, like the welding, you can have those things done at your local machine shop or garage. In a test to determine its drawbar capacity, the tractor was hitched to a full-size automobile on a level asphalt street. It was a hot day, and the asphalt had just enough stickiness to prevent Rear view shows the Cushman chain and drive sprockets attached to the two countershafts.
ALTHOUGH this little tractor may be a midget in size, it's a giant in performance. With plenty of power to do all the light hauling and towing jobs around the home or farm, it takes all the hard work out of these chores. In fact, you're going to have a problem trying to reserve that right for yourself. There's something fascinating about the little tractor at work, and everybody wants to get into the act. In addition to its usefulness for lawn and yard work, it could be employed in small plants, warehouses or airports for light towing jobs. John F. Mills, automotive technician of Marietta, Georgia, designed and built The 36-in. high tractor has a speed of 8 mph. weighs 190 lbs; 2]/2 hp engine provides power.
Pronounced camber of front wheels reduces deflecting action caused by small stones.
No need to burden yourself with heavy work when you can build this multi-purpose tractor for under $150.
20 GAUGE HOOD 16 1/4* X 20" 2 MOTOR PULLEY 1/8 X 1 STRAPS FOR GRILL AND SIDE CLEATS
V4 PLYWOOD DASH GAS CONTROL LEVER MOUNTS ON HOOD FRAME CHOKE CABLE RIG KILLS SPARK PLUG BRIGGS STRATTON GAS ENGINE 2 1/2 H.R
1"X 1" ANGLE IRON ENGINE HOOD FRAME
WHEEL AND POST (SEE DETAILS)
PILLOW ' BLOCK AND BRACKETS FUEL PUMP COVERS AS CAPS
IDLER ARM ASSEM (SEE DETAIL-)
COUNTERSHAF T (SEE DETAIL)
1/4VX 1 STOCK FOR DRAW BAR
wheel-spin, so no trouble was experienced in starting and pulling the load. With its present gearing the tractor has a maximum speed of about 8 miles an hour; it weighs 190 pounds. A greater reduction, which might be desirable for certain jobs, can be had by changing the sizes of the countershaft pulleys. The rear wheels have an overall diameter of 16 inches, will turn at 21 rpm. The ratio between the engine and forward countershaft is 5:1 (2 in. and 10 in. pulleys); rear countershaft to wheels is 4.5:1 (standard Cushman sprockets). With countershaft pulleys of equal size for front and rear, the total gear ratio is 22.5:1, which means that at an engine speed of 3800 rpm, the road speed is 8 miles an hour. With 3 in. pulleys on the forward countershaft and 5 in. ones on the rear, or sprocket shafts, the ratio is 37.35:1, which at maximum rpm would give a speed of a little under 5 miles an hour. Dimensions not specified in the plans are left to your own judgment. Some may have to be altered to suit materials you may have available. Generally speaking, however, it's best to stick to the basic dimensions given. Construction starts with the frame. Angle iron could be used in place of tubing for the side rails if it happens to be more easily obtainable, but the tubular type is better looking and stronger. The original rear wheel struts were spare-wheel brackets from a 1931 Cadillac. They needed practically no re-work other than welding them together to form an assembly something like a Cessna-type airplane, landing gear. Since these parts are not too plentiful, an alternate method of construction is illustrated in the plans. But, if you're lucky enough to find a pair of these brackets, a lot of your work is already done for you. The problem of a differential was solved in a simple but effective manner, without the use of gears, by driving the wheels through independent belt-driven countershafts controlled by a pedaloperated idler. Thus, the power to either wheel can be disengaged without affecting the other. When a sharp turn is made, the inside wheel is disengaged
The two belts ride on four 4-in. dia. pulleys. Note clutch spring attached to frame.
Engine drive belt and pulleys are covered by metal guard, located on left-hand side. Detail below shows foot rest and clutch pedal; both are covered by rubber hose.
STUDEBAKER CONNECTING BALL BEARING BOD LARGE END AS CLAMP PILLOW BLOCK SKF OR
CUSHMAN GEAR SECTION THROUGH COUNTERSHAFT
3/4 X 24 PIPE FOOT REST
LOCK NUTS SLIDE FIT RADIUS RODS
SIMILAR CLUTCH PEDAL ASSEMBLY (DISENGAGED POSITION)
IDLER ARM PULLEYS(4) ASSEMBLY
A-A SECTIDN
to prevent slippage, and all the power goes to the outside wheel. Relative to this operation, an odd fact was discovered during test runs of the tractor. Only in the sharpest turns do the clutches have to be manually operated. During normal maneuvering the action is automatic; the belt on the inside of a curve will slacken visibly, then tighten up again when you straighten out. Manual operation of the clutches is a natural, almost instinctive action, and has its parallel in the handling of a big tractor when you apply the individual brakes to facilitate turning. As illustrated in the plans, the device that locks the transmission in neutral, necessary for starting the engine, operates only when you depress both pedals simultaneously. To make a smooth start just hold the clutch pedals down while you release the lock with the lever, then hold the lever up until power is engaged by easing back on the pedals. Simple wooden jigs can be impro vised to hold parts in position for welding. [Continued on page 190] Mechanix Illustrated
Midget Tractor
[Continued from page 150] Correct alignment is most important in the provided since the engine compression acts installation of the countershafts and other very effectively. But, it is a fairly easy parts of the transmission system, both for matter to rig brakes, either on the rear the sake of smooth operation and preven- wheels or on the rear countershafts, and tion of excessive wear to the belts, chains operate them from the same pedals that work the clutches. With such an arrangeand sprockets. The cable-operated steering gear is ade- ment, de-clutching and braking could be quate, yet simple, easy to adjust, and per- performed in one operation. mits the steering post to be installed at a For a better riding comfort, if you're convenient angle, rather than horizontally going to drive for long periods, a spring along the top of the engine as on most small mount for the seat should be incorporated. tractors. A wheel from an outboard mo- However, the simple rigid mount as illustorboat steering gear or a similar wheel of trated is comfortable enough for average suitable diameter can be used if you don't use. The standard fuel tank supplied with care to build one up yourself. Shortly after small engines of the type we're using holds the photographs were taken, the steering enough fuel for more than two hours, but ratio was increased by removing the pulley there's room under the hood for a larger on the steering post and winding the cable tank if you want to increase the range of on the shaft itself, adding circular flanges operation. to retain the cable. This change is covered The pronounced camber of the front in the plans. With the original arrange- wheels, as shown in the photos, is to miniment, it was felt that the response was a mize the deflecting action of small stones little too quick for comfortable handling. and irregularities of the ground. A single The countershafts, as well as the engine, fork-mouthed front wheel could be incan be shifted to regulate belt or chain stalled. Using two wheels gives a better tension by providing elongated mounting ride over the soft spots, due to greater holes. The rear countershafts can be ground contact area. moved back and forth along the side rails, The name-plate, made from commercial clamped in position, and radius rods ad- Decal letters, adds a professional touch. justed accordingly. Put a coat of clear varnish over the letters In setting up the drive system, you for protection against peeling. On the should start with the chains and work for- right-hand rear vertical member of the ward. Adjust them so that a slight pres- hood frame is the hand throttle control for sure will show about 1/2 in. of slack at a regulating the governor to the desired oppoint midway the front and rear sprockets. erating speed. A commercial product, this Because the slack in the countershaft belts item is easy to install. On the left-hand will be taken up by the spring-loaded idler side opposite the throttle is a kill-switch rollers, the setting of the front countershaft for stopping the engine. It was made from isn't so critical as long as the slack isn't an automobile manual choke control and excessive. You'll be just about right if pulls a piece of spring steel against the you'll locate this shaft as specified in the spark plug, shorting it out. plans. Finally, locate the engine so that The rope-starter pulley is situated so that the the primary belt will "give" about 1/2 in. engine can be started from the driver's seat. at its midpoint. Rope-type starters with an automatic return If the tractor is to be used under ex0 are now available for most engines. With tremely dusty conditions, the chains will one of these gadgets, you don't have to wind give longer service if they are enclosed in up the rope for a start, or have to be careful sheet metal guards. With reasonable care not to loose it. there is little danger of getting your clothFinally, a few words of caution. Don't ing caught in the chains and sprockets. let the small size of this machine fool you However, abbreviated guards might be in- into treating it as a toy. For the sake of stalled over the countershaft sprockets. safety, handle it with exactly the same In the original design no brakes are respect and caution you give a big tractor.
190
April, 19S6
FEEJEE
An All-Purpose Dump Truck
FeejeeBuilt by Don W. Street, a California poultry rancher, takes its name from a contraction of the words Feed and Jeep.
Comparative size of truck is shown by man in seat. Half-body is used for hauling sacked grain and items not in bulk
the HANDYthearound barn,poultry farm, dairy in the feedlot and in industrial plants, this capable midget dump truck has the capacity for half-ton loads, weighs 600 lbs. empty and has a tread width of only 31 in. A 3-hp. air-cooled engine drives through two standard automobile transmissions hooked up in tandem, thus giving a wide variation in gear ratios for the heavy pulls. A power-driven hydraulic lift, separate foot brakes on the rear wheels and a foot accelerator combine to give a degree of control equal to that of any standard dump truck. The narrow width lets the midget through small gates and feed-bunk alleys and its ability to turn in its own length gets it around square corners and into and out of narrow driveways with a full load. Some departures from the design as detailed are possible. A 3 or 5-hp. engine equipped with integral clutch will save building the spring-loaded clutch arrangement shown. Where the going is fairly level and there are no steep grades to negotiate regularly, a 3-hp. engine driving through a single transmission will give satisfactory performance. Two types of side panels are fitted to the platform to provide three body types: a half box, a flat bed and a deep double
With the sides removed the flat bed can be used to haul bulky articles such as baled hay, lumber or large crates
With box-body half a ton of feed or fertilizer can be hauled. Hydraulic cylinders hoist the body to the dumping position
box, with, endgates, for small grains, ensilage or ground feeds. Side panels are made of white pine or waterproof plywood and fitted with hardwood cleats and stakes spaced to fit openings in the platform. Both cleats and stakes are riveted to the panels for extra strength. Endgates are of the same construction, and wagon-box, rods cut down to the proper length are provided to hold the endgates in place. Only general dimensions are given for the frame, Fig. 1. Parts of a Model T Ford frame are used, as will be noted. However,
you can use steel channels for the frame side members and save welding on stiffeners, which are called for in Fig. 1. In building the chassis frame it is necessary to adapt it to the parts and equipment you have available or at hand. The frame should be long enough to accommodate engine, clutch, two transmissions, hydraulic pump and the rear axle. If you use the same equipment as on the original vehicle, the frame dimensions will correspond closely to those given in Fig. 1. Assembly of the driving parts is illus-
trated in the perspective view in Fig. 3. Mainframe channels are cut and welded to form the "kick-up" forward portion. Stiffeners of flat steel are welded along the b o t t o m of the straight section to give additional rigidity. A steel floor plate is welded to the front end, with a round opening to receive the steeringpost bearing. Seat frame is built up of 1/8 by 1 1/2 by 1 1/2-in. angle iron with all joints welded. This should be dimensioned to accommodate the cushions you will use. Supports for engine, transmissions, etc., are located where required, and a shaft carrying the lower eye bearings of the hydraulic cylinders is supported by bearings welded to the side frames as shown. Place the transmissions, engine and other parts in position and from this trial set-up determine the location of supporting members on the frame. Don't weld frame crossmembers in place until you make this trial assembly. Using an engine with an inte-
gral clutch, Fig. 3, A, will change the relative positions of these parts. Provide for a tow hook at the rear end of the frame and install guides for brake cables on each side. The cables should be located after brake pedals are installed. Holes are drilled in the extreme rear ends of the channel members to receive the bolts on which the dump body hinges. Relative locations of the parts, when using a spring-loaded clutch, Fig. 3, D, can be worked out on the partially completed frame. Generally, it's best to begin by bolt-
Narrow tread and single-wheel steering permits use in close quarters
ing the rear axle in position and then work back to the engine. The angle of the drive shaft is determined by the height of the crankshaft above the center of the rear axle, Fig. 2. With the frame blocked up, the axle is bolted directly to the frame, under the channels and at the ends of the stiffeners as shown. Ubolts made from 3/8-in. round rods will serve to hold the axle in place. In the original job a Willys rear-axle assembly is used and the tread is narrowed to 31 in. by cutting out a 12-in. section of the housing and 11 1/2 in. of the live axles on each side as in Fig. 3, detail F. The ends of the axles then are turned in a lathe as shown in the detail and welded, as is the housing. A coupling to connect with the rear transmissionin this case a Buick transmission is made as shown. Any similar coupling will be satisfactory if a different make of transmission is used. In order that the tops of the transmissions will clear the bottom of the body, it is necessary to mount them at an angle as in Fig. 3, C. The second transmission, taken from a Graham car, was originally fitted with an emergency brake, the drum of which is utilized to drive the hydraulic pump through a friction pulley, Fig. 3, detail G. Next comes the clutch assembly, shown in Fig. 3, details D and E. On the original job this was made especially for the purpose. The driving disk is faced with clutch facing and is fitted with an oilimpregnated bearing in which the drive shaft turns when the clutch is disengaged. The clutch throw-out arm is fitted with rollers which bear against a flange on the driven disk. Foot pedals may be practically any standard automobile clutch or foot-brake type and are linked up as shown in Fig. 3. Gearshift levers are mounted on a frame crossmember as indicated. Link bars are bent to clear the body. The brake shaft is fitted with a ratchet footoperated lock, Fig. 3, B. A g e a r - typ e hy d r a u l ic pump is mounted on the frame as indicated. The leather-faced pulley on the pump shaft contacts the emergency brake drum, and is thrown into and out of contact by a hand lever with a ratchet. The ratchet lever and bell-crank linkage which controls the pump is shown in position in Fig. 3. Fluid is drawn from the hydraulic storage tank and delivered to two hydraulic cylinders through flexible tubing.
Independent brakes on rear wheels are operated by separate pedals which can be locked to hold truck on a grade
FEEJEE-AN ALL-PURPOSE
THE upper ends of the hydraulic-cylinder plungers are mounted as in Fig. 4, B, and the platform is pivoted at the rear end of the truck frame in the manner shown. For a high lift of the truck body, the hydraulic lift units are lengthened by removing the upper head and plunger guide and substituting a longer cylinder of seamless steel tubing and longer bolts. Dimensions of the steel platform or bed are given in Fig. 4, details C and D. All parts which comprise the platform are welded together, as strength and rigidity are necessary in this unit. The overall size as detailed was found to be the most practical for all ordinary purposes and, due to the low center of gravity, there is little danger of tipping even with comparatively high, bulky loads. When you have heavy parts or materials to load you'll appreciate the low platform. The full-box and halfbox body were referred to in the first installment of this story, and dimensions were suggested for these parts. Of course, either or both of the boxes can be altered to suit any special requirements. The next step is the mounting of the rearwheel disks on the brake drums of the rear axle. Refer to Part I, Fig. 3, detail F, which shows how the wheel disks are welded to
DUMP TRUCK
the brake drums. As you can see from Fig. 4, the wheels are 4 by 8 by 16 in. in size and are fitted with 4-ply pneumatic tires. Twoply tires in the same size will not be satisfactory for the purpose except perhaps for very light loads. Although it is possible to bolt the 8-in. wheel disks to the original axle-wheel flanges by means of spacers, this method is not as satisfactory as welding the disks to the drums. As a rule, wheel disks of the type used consist of two halves held together with bolts and, as these will be inaccessible after the disks are welded to the drums, it's a good idea to weld the bolt heads beforehand to prevent them from loosening or turning. Care must be taken when welding the disks in place to
As you see here, the truck has a comfortable spring cushioned seat mounted on an angle-iron frame
FORK CANTED 114"
assure true-running wheels. Even a slight wobble will result in undue wear on the tires. The drums should be cleaned thoroughly before reassembling and, if necessary, the brake shoes should be relined. Another welding job calling for the same care and precision is the assembly of the front-wheel fork, bearing and steering post. Details of this assembly are shown at E and F in Fig. 4. The front wheel is the same size as the rear wheels, but of course the hub and bearings are retained. The wheel fork is made from 1 1/8-in. seamless steel tubing bent to the shape indicated. The ends are flattened before bending and are drilled to take a steel shaft having both ends shouldered and threaded for nuts and lock washers. This work can be done in a lathe. When mounting the wheel in the fork it may be necessary to use spacers at both ends of the hub. Short lengths cut from ordinary iron pipe will do, but the spacers must be a close fit on the shaft and the length must be such that the hub of the wheel has about 1/16 in. end play when the assembly is complete. The hub should be provided with a pressure grease fitting. A steering-post bearing, Fig. 4, E, is adapted from a Ford front-wheel hub and the steering shaft is made up from a length of the live axle which was removed from the rear-axle assembly when cutting it down to a narrower tread. One end of this shaft is drilled and tapped to screw over the threaded end of the spindle, to which it is
' : - 55
making the assembly the wheel fork is welded to the end of the spindle and when making this weld care must be taken to cant the fork back 1 1/2 in. at the lower end. This arrangement gives the wheel the proper caster for stability and ease of steering. Before assembling the steering column completely, ream the outer end of the hub cap to a close fit over the steering shaft to keep out dirt and When fitted with the full-box body the truck will handle loose grain, grit. Provide a pressure ensilage, ground feeds or any small, loose parts of either metal or weed grease fitting for convenient lubrication of the bearing. When assembled in the truck frame it's important that the wheel, fork and steering column stand on a perpendicular center line as in detail F, Fig. 4. If the wheel is off-center or the column cants in relation to the frame, the truck will not steer properly. As the final step in the construction you have the seat frame, Fig. 4, and perhaps a few minor adjustments of pedals and control levers to assure that everything is in working order. The seat can be just about anyFor a higher body lift the original hydraulic cylinders are easily lengthened with seamless steel tubing of the same diameter and longer stay bolts
pinned as indicated. The opposite end of the shaft is machined and threaded to take a 16 or 18-in.-dia. steering wheel. Usually a steering wheel of this type is keyed to the steering shaft with a semicircular or "halfmoon" key. This work can be done in your local machine shop. The wheel-mounting flange is bolted to the floor plate of the truck frame when assembly is made. In
thing that suits you individually so long as it is safely constructed and serves the purpose. By fitting cushions from an ordinary auto seat in the angle-iron seat frame you finish up with something like that shown in several of the photos. And finally, although the truck will run just as well without painting, a coat of outdoor enamel will add to its appearance and keep off the rust.
POST-HOLE AUGER
Driven By Tractor
Assembled from junk parts, this post-hole auger makes easy work of a tiresome job
from tractor D RIVENtakeoff theauger ahas power through Vbelt, this post-hole
the advantage of an easily controlled hand feed which makes it possible to dig holes in fence rows where roots, stones and other obstructions sometimes cause delay and breakage. The necessary angle drive is made by adapting an old Dodge differential, but any of the older automobile differentials having square holes for the axles can be used. Of course, complete dimensions cannot be given in the detail drawing, nor can the arrangement be followed closely when mounting the auger on the various makes of tractors. Hence the details shown at the right are only suggestions on how to make the assembly of the various parts. In this case the square drive shaft was taken from a rod weeder, but any square steel shaft of good quality material can be used. The top end of the shaft is carried in a single ball bearing and fitting this properly likely will require some alteration, such as turning down the end of the shaft to fit the inner ball race. On a tractor of a different make than that shown it will be necessary to alter the horizontal driveshaft support so that it will fit the tractor transmission housing. It also will be necessary to change the braces to the tractor drawbar. The details show one way of making these adjustable for length. Other methods of accomplishing this can be used when necessary. The combine header lift makes a handy arrangement for lowering and raising the auger and controlling the rate of feed. Although one man can operate the auger there is less danger of breakage where there are two operators, one to drive the tractor, the other to handle the digger.
Photo and certain constructional details courtesy of State College at Washington
63
is SIMPLEPOWERED with a single-cylinder motorcycle engine or any motor of 2 or 3 hp., this tractor is ideal for the small truck garden. Built as shown, it is essentially a cultivator, but other units can readily be added to meet existing conditions. Start by making the wooden frame, as shown in Fig. 2, fitting the axle to the underside by means of two bearings or spring-shackle brackets drilled to a neat fit. The axle itself is a standard Ford rear axle, welded to measure 25 1/4 in. long, as shown in Fig. 5. You will need a Ford flywheel gear, which is to be riveted to a disk of 1/4-in. boiler plate, inserting the rivets through the original ring-gear holes, as in Fig. 6. The plate, in turn, is bolted to a Ford rear wheel, again locating the fastenings to match the original holes, as in Fig. 7. The wheel rims should be of the demount-able type, each being fitted with eight metal cleats welded into place equidistantly around the circumference, as in Fig. 4. Fig. 8 pictures the first step of the as-
Ford parts and a motorcycle engine are used in making this simple garden tractor; the manner of fitting the axle and wheels to the frame is shown above
sembly. The two wheels, minus the brake drums, are fitted and keyed to the Ford axle as in the original, 1-in. pipe sections, 1 in. long, being used for spreaders, as indicated in the photograph. The next thing is the countershaft. This is turned from a Ford driveshaft, to the dimensions given in Fig. 11. The end of the shaft, which is to take the Ford bendix gear, must be turned just a trifle oversize, so that the gear can be heated
GARDEN TRACTO
and shrunk on. Because of the greater speed of the countershaft, it is advisable to fit grease cups on the bearings. A suitable size can be obtained from the Ford driveshaft and tapped into place. The countershaft pulley is made up according to Fig. 10, using a Ford rear hub and a Ford brake drum. Bore the hub so that it will fit tightly over the countershaft and tap for a setscrew in order to make everyforward so that each hoe will have a tendency to drag straight back when the tractor is in use. One important point here: You will notice that the cultivator is supported by two strap-iron arms at the rear and by a V-shaped hanger at the front. Be sure that these are parallel, as can be seen in Fig. 18. Otherwise, either the front or rear steels will dig in at various depths. Now we come to the motor. You can get fairly good results from a 3/4-hp. motor although one of 2 or 3 hp. is prefer-
thing solid. Fig. 12 shows the completed countershaft being bolted to the frame. This must be done carefully, so that the bendix gear will mesh perfectly with the ring gear on the wheel. Test before going further by pushing the partly finished tractor backward and forward across the floor. The cultivator selected is a five-tooth arrangement, intended principally for work between rows. The general details of the construction are given in Figs. 15, 16 and 17. The control arms, which regulate the depth of the cut, must be slightly curved, as in Fig. 13, in order to slide freely. The teeth are simply spring ends, cut to fit and turned over at right angles to allow bolting, as in Fig. 14. In fastening, locate the holes
motor is mounted. Various engines will differ here, but in any case the metal support brackets should offer no difficulties. As there is no clutch on this tractor, it is evident that control must be through an idler pulley, which, when released, will let the motor run without transferring the energy to the wheels. This part of the unit is made from a Ford fan pulley, as shown in Fig. 24, and the mounting is by means of the original Ford fan bracket, as shown in Fig. 25. The control rod runs back to an L-shaped lever,
able. The motor shown here is a single-cylinder motorcycle engine, capable of developing 3 hp. and a peak speed of about 3,500 r.p.m. Thus, running at half speed, this outfit would develop a good tractor speed of 2 1/2 miles per hour, the gearing being as shown in Fig. 19, and based on a 2 1/4-in. pulley at the motor end. Inasmuch as a motorcycle engine will be the choice of the average builder, a detail on how the pulley is adapt-ed is given in Figs. 20 and 21. The original sprocket is removed and a 1-in. length of 1 1/2-in. pipe nip-ple is brazed into place. This is turned into a length of 1 1/2-in. pipe coupling, which, with the flanges shown in Fig. 20, make the actual pulley. The V-groove on the heavier flange makes the take-off to the air-circulating fan. In mounting the completed pulley, the original shaft key and nut are used as before, as shown in Fig. 21. Fig. 22 details how the
made from automobile gascontrol fittings, and then up the plow handle to another lever taken from an automobile emergency brake. In use, a spring holds the idler clear, motive power being obtained by depressing the control lever so that the idler is forced
against the belt. Notice, in Fig. 27, that the circulating fan is simply a small electric fan coupled with a small V-pulley. The whole unit is held with a suitable bracket from No. 16-gauge metal stock clamped to the top of the cylinder, as in Fig. 26. Starting is done by inserting the crank between the spokes of the wneei to engage the pin inside the motor pulley, as shown in Fig. 28. The gas and oil supply is carried in a small tank mounted with flat-iron stock, as
shown in Fig. 29. This can be made from galvanized stock to fit, or any small tank can be adapted for the purpose. Don't forget the paint. Of course, it doesn't make the thing run any better,
but it does stamp your work as well done. In constructing this garden tractor, it is advisable to follow the instructions in all details, using the various parts that have been recommended. Where these are not available, other similar parts may have to be substituted and, in this case, it may be necessary to deviate from the exact mounting arrangement shown.
MATERIAL LIST
1. 10 ft., 1 3/8 by 3-in. Wh. Oak, for frame 2. One Axle (Ford rear) 3 Four Spring-Shackle Brackets 4. Two Wheels (Ford rear) 5. 7 ft., 1-in. Angle Iron 6. 1/4-in. Boiler Plate, 15 En. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15 Ring Gear (Ford) One Roar Hub (Ford) One 8-in. Brake Drum (Ford) One Driveshaft (Ford) Three Spring Leaves (1 1/2ln, wide) Strap Stock for Cultivator 25 in.. 1-in.T-Stock 11/2-in. Pipe Coupling 11/2 in Pipe Nipple 16. 1/8-in. Pipe Nipple 17. Two 1/8 in. Locknuts 18. 5ft.,11/2by2in.,Oak 19. One Fan Pulley (Ford) with Bracket 20. Small Electric Fan 21. Small V-Pulley 22. Two Gas Control Levers (from any car) 23. 5ft.,3/16in.Rod 24. Emergency Brake Handle (from any car) 25. Two Plow Handles 26. One Bendix Gear (Ford) 27. Motor, Motor Mount, Fasten ings and Small Items to Com plete Assembly
SNOWPLOWS
BLOWER
Clears Feed Lots and Lanes
By Paul Andre
Head-on view of snow-blower shows clearly how auger with rods welded to blade is positioned to "condition" all snow that is forced into impeller of blower
Forward end of auxiliary drive shaft is fitted with a universal joint that couples it to a system of chains and sprockets that drive blower impeller and a short jackshaft
Jackshaft it geared at right angles to shaft that drives auger by means of sprockets and chain. Changing sprockets varies auger speed
2157
SNOW
sides of the scoop. The snow scoop is fabricated from sheet steel, angles and flats, and is bolted to the blower housing. The complete snow-blower unit is bolted to the hydraulic loader, from which the scoop has been removed. For added rigidity, braces are bolted to the blower housing and to steel plates on the loader arms. The braces are lengths of pipe flattened on the end and drilled for bolts. By using the hydraulic system of the loader, the operator can adjust the snow scoop to any desired height. This latter is a practical feature when snow is being removed from an irregular surface or from an area that might contain rocks or other objects that could damage the auger blade or the impeller of the blower. In operation, the tractor is driven forward, shoving the scoop into the snow, so that it is forced into the auger. Short lengths of steel rod welded to the auger blade break up chunks of frozen snow and pieces of ice before they can enter the blower. After being "preconditioned" by the auger, the snow is forced into the w h i r l ing impeller of the blower by the continuing forward movement of the tractor, and the "center feeding" effect of the auger blade. The impeller pulverizes the snow completely and it is blown about 40 ft. to one side of the tractor. Power to rotate the blower and auger is provided by the power take-off of the tractor. Sprockets and chain are used to deliver the power from the take-off at the rear of the tractor to a drive shaft mounted alongside the tractor. A universal joint at the forward end of the drive shaftnecessary to allow for the up-and-down adjustments of the blower assemblyconnects to a system of sprockets and chains mounted on the blower housing. This system rotates the blower and a short shaft at one side of the housing. The latter shaft is geared to another shaft positioned at right angles. Sprockets and chain transfer power from this shaft to that of the auger blade. A l l shaft bearings are greased frequently to offset the rust problem that results when the snow packs around the bearings and melts. A suggested modification that another builder might use would be to provide a swivel action for the blower spout. This would permit blowing the snow to the opposite side in a situation where snow had to be cleared from alongside a building, and deep snow prevented driving in from the other direction. This also would permit allowing for wind direction. * * *
Benton County, Iowa, since he built this snow-blower unit for his tractor. Cost of constructing the unit was low, as he utilized discarded farm machinery for the main components, and all welding and work was done in the farm workshop. No special tools, not found in the average farm shop, were required for the construction. The blower mechanism itself is the fan and housing of a unit originally used to blow hay and silage into the barn and silo. Positioned just in front of the blower, inside the snow scoop, is an auger of the type used in combines. It rotates in bearings bolted to brackets that are welded to the
Power for snow-blower is routed from power take-off at rear of tractor by chain and sprockets through a drive shaft located along one tide of the tractor.
SNOWDRIFTS on the feed lot or DEEPaany of the to Myron Hanson of on farm lanes no longer present problem
2156
Garden Tractor
has 4-cylinder power, differential, dual transmission, starter, variable tread and hand-controlled brakes from a few pipe, BUILT fittings and. pieces of parts, pipe old auto Including the engine, this powerful garden tractor handles all the larger garden-tractor implements such as a 10 or 12-in. turning plow, 5 or 6ft. disk harrow, any of the larger cultivators, mowing machines, etc., with plenty of power left over for the hard pulls. Because of its extra weight and compact-unit construction it's easy to handle even on the heaviest jobs. Stability and balance plus a close throttle control make it easy to steer and prevent whipping of the handles so common the lighter garden tractors. Controls are located on the handle bars within easy reach of the operator. A heavy perforated steel grille protects the radiator core from damage in case you bump into something, Handles and frame are one unit, built up from pipe and fittings. Power is taken off the front end of the engine crankshaft by roller chain to a Harley-Davidson m o t o r c y c l e transmission which contains an "over-center" clutch controlled by a lever on the handle bars. From this transmission, power is taken by roller chain to a second transmission, the latter from a Ford ModelA or 1931 Dodge automobile. This second transmission is bolted directly to a cut-down Ford Model-T rear axle as you see in Fig. 1. The "worm's eye" view in Fig. 1 gives a clear idea of the compact, efficient drive. Sounds like a cranky job to assemble, but it happens that these parts fit together with the minimum of alteration. In the process the drive pinion of the rear axle is "transplanted" to the transmission and then the two parts are "telescoped" together. A study of the exploded view in Fig. 2 will give you an idea of how these various parts are assembled. No dimensions are given on any of the parts except the size of pipe used for the frame.
12
The "worm's eye" view below shows the drive. Transmission it bolted directly to The differential hauling of a Ford Model-T rear axle. Brakes and hubs are from a Ford Modal-A axle
This whole job is of such a nature that size of the parts must be determined as you go along. Much, depends on what you will use the tractor for, what engine you use, whether 1931 Willys auto engine, as was used on the original, or the popular Willys Jeep engine, now so readily available. Due to variations in the mounting brackets on the Jeep engine alterations must be made from the original plan of assembly. This is not at all difficult, but will make material differences in the dimensions of certain parts. The first thing to determine is the distance, measured both lengthwise and across the width, of the engine mounting brackets. Distance across the width of the Willys auto engine used in the original tractor was cut down to approximately 16 in This done, you remove the clutch assembly and the clutch housing. Then make a sling from light chain and fit the chains with hooks attached to the engine in such a way that when it is raised with a tackle block the engine will hang level. Now you're ready for the rest of the job. It's a good idea to get all the necessary material at hand before you begin work. For the handle bars you need two pieces of 1-in. pipe of the grade known to the trade as "extra heavy," also one piece approximately 15 in. long for
semble the transmission, machine a taper on the transmission shaft, also cut a thread and drill the shaft transversely for a castle nut and cotter pin. Then, to reassemble, first make a paper template of the form of the Model-T propellershaft mounting boss and from this scribe four evenly spaced holes on the driven end of the transmission c a s e , keeping in mind that the transmission is turned 90 degrees as in the lower detail, Fig. 2, and also in Fig. 1. Discard the retainer ring for the end ball bearing and also the 1/8-in. spacer where the main shaft t e l e s c o p e s into the driveshaft. This allows the end bearing to seat flush with the end of the case. Make a washer of thin sheet metal to hold the bearing in place. Drill .328" clearance holes in the transmission case. Reassemble the main shaft and bolt the transmission case directly to the differential housing, using 5/16-in. studs, tightening nuts from inside the case. Check clearance of the pinion. It may be necessary to shim between the two parts. Then cut off the end-plate flange and the front member. Over-all width of the weld on a 1 by l-in. pipe coupling, frame when assembled is 17 in. In addition, shown separately in Fig. 2. Cut off the two 90-dcgree elbows, two 45-degree el- transmission lever to about 8 in. long and bows, two 6-in. nipples and two caps are weld on a ball-joint fitting taken from a required. Then for the engine supports you Model-T tie rod. Later a suitable ball end require three pieces of flat steel 3/8 by 4 by is welded to the lower end of the gearshift 20 in. and one piece 3/8 by 4 by 22 in. long. lever which extends to the handle bars. These dimensions make considerable alAssemble the frame and handle-bar unit, lowance. In addition several pieces of an- making a 30-degree bend in the long lengths gle iron are needed for bearing supports, of pipe, the bond 24 in. from the end on axle brackets, etc. both pieces. Bolt the engine supports in Next, you work on the axle assembly, place with 5/16-in. U-bolts. Block up the axle shown in the lower detail, Fig. 2. Tread of and frame assemblies in their relative posithe suspended Lower the original tractor with the furrow wheel tions underinto position and engine. or othclamp reversed was 34 in. However, the tread the engine the parts in place. With the width depends on the work to be done with erwiseathold stage you can easily determine the tractor. If, for example, you plan to cul- setup this of the first transmission which tivate multiple rows of such garden truck the location of the engine supports as in the bolts to one crops as carrots or onions, then the tread center detail, Fig. 2. Also the location of width with the wheels "in" must be planned the bearing support A, the amount of the accordingly. Either way, cut up two axle bend in the engine support B and the locaassemblies to make one. You'll require one tion of the bracket pieces C to which the Ford Model-T rear axle complete and one bearing support A is welded. This bearing Ford Model-A axle. Then, with the tread takes the power takeoff shaft and is opwidth required in mind, cut up the axle tional equipment. Also the position of the housings and reassemble the parts as axle brackets shown in the center detail, shown in the lower view, Fig. 2. Machine and the bearing bracket which supports the separate axle shafts. This is a job for the bearing D. Mark the locations of all these local machine shop, unless, of course, you parts. Support pieces are welded to the enhave equipment. The Model-T drive pinion gine brackets and the other parts are either and bearing are removed from the differen- welded or bolted in place as shown. tial assembly and the pinion is mounted on. Use 16-gauge sheet metal for the hood the transmission as in the lower detail, Fig. 2. To do this it will be necessary to disas- and instrument panel and also the fuel 14
AMMETEROIL PRESSURE GUAGE
IGNITION SWITCH CHOKE
HOOD
FAN BLADES CUT DOWN TO CLEAR HOOD
MANUAL SPARK CONTROL
FUEL TANK
STARTER GEAR HOUSING STARTER SWITCH 1931 WILLYS ENGINE OR JEEP ENGINE
The power plant completeconventional 4-cylinder auto engine with starter, lights if you want them, and the usual complement of radiator, heavy protective grille, fuel tank, instrument panel and hoodall assembled into one self-contained unit. . .
9-TOOTH SPROCKET
HANDLE GRIPS 2 REQ'D
FRAME 1" IRON PIPE
GUIDE FOR GEARSHIFT LEVER
which is welded to the standing supports of the frame unit. The latter includes GRILLE the first transmission (GRAVEL SCREEN) as shown. Standing supports are U-bolted to the main frame. ANGLE-IRON BRACKETS This manner of assemWELDED TO ENGINE bling permits easy SUPPORT removal of the power unit if necessary.
HANDLE TO ADJUST PLOW CLEVIS WELDED MOTORCYCLE TRANSMISSION
BATTERY
1" x 1" ANGLE-IRON BRACKET 2 REQ'D

FORD MODEL-T DIFFERENTIAL
BEARING BRACKET
SEPARATE SHAFT MACHINED TO FIT 2 REQ'D
Right and left braking and differential action are essential to easy operation of a "walking" tractor. This composite axle has all three features. The brakes are sufficiently powerful to lock either wheel at full load and are finger-tip controlled from the handle grips
WELDED TAPERED
WELDED CASTLE NUT

FORD MODEL-A REAR HUB, 2 REQ'D 1" x 1 PIPE COUPLING 1931 DODGE OR FORD MODEL-A TRANSMISSION 22-TOOTH SPROCKET
SPLINED ADAPTER SPLIT BEARING
5/16" U-BOLT 2 REQ'D.
The second transmission and the axle assemble info one unit which is D-bolted to the frame in such a position that there is just enough weight at the rear to tip fhe tractor back on the handles when it's in the level position. 15
ASSEMBLY
LEFT SIDE THROTTLE BRAKE LEVER CLUTCH LEVER WELDED FRICTION TAPE
REAR VIEW SHIFT LEVER (2nd TRANSMISSION) BRAKE LEVER (R.R. BRAKE-SHOE WEDGE) 3 REQ'D FORD MODEL-A BRAKE CABLE 2 REQ'D WELDED
WELDED
IMPLEMENT CONTROL BAR WELDED IMPLEMENT LIFT UNIT TRACTOR CONTROLS
and attach the controls, ignition switch, oil-pressure gauge and ammeter, and wire to the battery. Increase the engine oil pressure to the maximum. Fit the c a r b u r e t o r with an air cleaner. Fuel feed to the carburetor is by vacuum tank, although of course a fuel pump can be fitted. Note in detail B, Fig. 2, the sleeve welded to the engine support. This serves as a bearing for the lower end of the clutch lever, which is a -in. rod with a short length of gearshift lever welded on at an angle as you see in Fig. 3. A short arm welded to the clutch lever
tank, which is welded to the panel as indicated. The starter-gear housing is a domed cover from a discarded gasoline pump, and is welded over the hole cut in the panel. In most cases the fan blades must be cut down to clear the hood. Radiator used on the original tractor was taken from a 1931 Willys automobile and cut down in width. Have this done by a service shop. It's also necessary in most cases to straighten the top hose connection. Do this by cutting diagonally and then soldering together to make a straight connection. Finish the assembly by fitting sprockets as indicated and hooking up the drive chains. Bolt the grille and hood in place
16
at the lower end connects to the clutch throw-out arm on the motorcycle transmission-clutch assembly by means of a short link bent from a piece of -in. steel rod. Weld in a cross member about 8 in below the handle grips to serve as a stiffener, Fig. 3. Balance of the detail in Fig. 3 is more or less optional and must be arranged to suit the implements you will use. A rubber-tired caster wheel is fitted at the center of the implement-control bar to carry the weight of certain other implements and serve as a rest when the tractor is standing idle. Use Ford wheels on the Model-A hubs. Other wheels can be used but likely it will be necessary to lengthen the studs.

Farm Impliments: Old Plans

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FARM

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ELECTRICAL AND HOSE CONNECTIONS Green wire to switch

Switch, up to raise blade, down to lower blade.

Plug, made from

"-20 x " screw.

DETAIL A Tap -13 (through) 1-" 1-1/8" 2-1 /4" 3 - 3/4"

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3/8 dia. 1-1/2"

15/16" 3/16" 11/16" 1-1/2" 1-1/4" 5/8"

1/2" - 13 threaded rod. 9" long

1/2" dia. 7" Cylinder base plate

Tap 7/16"-14 1-1/8"

Alternate cylinder base plate 1/4" dia.

5/8" 3/8" - dia. 1-1/4" 1-1/4"

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