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Walking guide for
discovering Paris
paris
FOr YOU!
1
Just how you imagined it Paris has something for everyone in a mul-
tifaceted, magical, mythical and sometimes surprising capital that is
always exciting.
People come to Paris to admire its exceptional architectural and cultural
heritage, which makes it one of the worlds most beautiful cities. This
dynamic heritage is constantly being updated and enriched.
Paris is also the capital of gastronomy, fashion and shopping a city where
something is always happening. It is committed to the notions of quality
of life and sustainable development and offers its inhabitants and visitors
a particularly pleasant setting. Innovative, audacious and vibrant, Paris
has leapt boldly into the 21st century
The Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau has created this guide to help
you discover the many aspects of the city and the surrounding areas, to
accompany you as you visit Paris, all of Paris, according to your time here,
your interests or simply your spur of the moment impulses.
Thirteen walks will take you on a relaxed discovery tour of different neigh-
bourhoods, with their different atmospheres and lifestyles. And whatever
you may feel like doing going out, shopping, relaxing, etc. you will get
the most out of the French capital with pages on useful tips and addresses
that alternate with the walks.
We are delighted to share the citys treasures with you. So, here is Paris
for you. Have a great stay!
Paris for you,
Welcome!
3
par Bertrand Delano,
maire de Paris
This new edition of the Paris for you! guide invites you to choose how you would
like to discover the French capital. It also reveals the places that are an essential
part of the identity of our city.
A dynamic city, Paris welcomed 29 million visitors in 2011, and with its
20 arrondissements it always has many surprises and discoveries in store.
Cultural life in Paris boasts 200 museums and monuments, 145 theatres and
380 cinemas. Parisians and visitors have much to choose from: outdoors with
Nuit Blanche, Paris-Plages, Paris Face Cache, the CENTQUATRE an outstanding
arts centre , with the literary festival Paris En Toutes Lettres, the Trois Baudets
events venue, or the Gat lyrique a venue entirely devoted to digital culture.
Nightlife in Paris offers night owls mythical venues: prestigious jazz clubs, Latino
cafes, night clubs and cabarets The Nuit Capitales event and the website
www.parisnightlife.fr will guide you around the Paris Nightlife scene with the new
iPhone application.
Everyone can find the typical Paris of yesteryear and the diversity of the Paris
of today just around a street corner in districts like Montmartre, Belleville, the
Marais, or in one or our 82 local markets. With the Vlib self-service bicycle
hire network, everyone can explore our entire city in a relaxed way on a fun and
environmentally-friendly means of transport. A similar service, Autolib, is now
available with self-service non-polluting cars for hire throughout the city.
Cosmopolitan Paris is also about creativity, fashion and design, and arts &
crafts where you will encounter crafts people in Faubourg Saint-Antoine and at
the Viaduc des Arts, as well as the Cit de la Mode et du Design which opens its
doors this year.
On behalf of Parisians, and myself, I wish you a wonderful stay in our city, with
many magical experiences and new discoveries.
By Bertrand Delano,
Mayor of Paris
foreWorD
5
par Bertrand Delano,
maire de Paris
Thirteen walks, useful suggestions and addresses
to get the most out of the French capital.
conTenTs
p.7 Paris conVenTion
anD VisiTors Bureau
WalKs

p.12 riVer seine Paris
Rivers Seine / Bridges / Quays /
Ports

p.18 Timeless Paris
le de la Cit (4th) / Quartier
latin (5th) / le Saint-Louis (4th) /
Jardin des Plantes (5th)
p.28 TrenDy Paris
Marais (4th) / Montorgueil (2nd) /
Htel de Ville (4th) / Les Halles (1st)
p.36 Glamorous Paris
Palais Royal (1st) / Madeleine (8th) /
Opra (9th) / Grands
Boulevards (9th)
p.46 VillaGe Paris
Montmartre (18th) / Pigalle (9th) /
Saint-Georges (9th) / Trinit (9th) /
Batignolles (17th)
p.54 arTisTs Paris
Muse dOrsay (7th) /
Saint-Germain-des-Prs (6th) /
Luxembourg (6th) /
Montparnasse (14th)
p.62 monumenTal Paris
Tour Eiffel (7th) /
Champ-de-Mars (15th) /
Invalides (7th) / Trocadro (16th)
p.70 cHic Paris
Auteuil (16th) /
Bois de Boulogne (16th) /
Porte Maillot (16th) /
Passy, La Muette (16th)
surrounding area:
Hauts-de-Seine
useful TiPs
anD aDDresses
p.16 Along the water
p.25 Architecture and heritage
p.34 Parisian nights
p.44 Fashion and shopping
p.53 Gourmet capital
p.60 Artistic creation
p.68 Culture and museums
p.75 A taste for luxury
p.82 Visiting the capital
p.90 Outdoor city life
p.98 Meeting the Parisians
p.104 Music and shows
p.76 myTHical Paris
Concorde (8th) /
Champs-lyses (8th) /
Tuileries (1st) / Louvre (1st)
p.84 unDiscoVereD Paris
Viaduc des Arts (12th) /
Place dItalie (13th) / Bercy (12th),
Tolbiac (13th) /
Bois de Vincennes (12th)
surrounding area:
Val-de-Marne

p.92 cosmoPoliTan Paris
Canal Saint-Martin (10th) /
La Villette (19th) / Buttes-
Chaumont (19th) / Belleville (20th)
surrounding area:
Seine-Saint-Denis
p.100 PeoPles Paris
Rpublique (10th) / Bastille (11th) /
Oberkampf (11th) /
Pre-Lachaise (20th)
p.108 siGHTseeinG in le-De-france
p.112 inDex
7
The Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau is your key
contact for preparing your trip to Paris, and for helping
you to have a wonderful stay when you arrive.
WeBsiTe Parisinfo.com
All the latest events, museums, walks, hotels, transport, practical information,
and more. Discover the destination and organize your stay with the help of the
Bureaus website (in French, English, German and Spanish).
At the online boutique, book your accommodation and purchase all the essential
tourist products.
maPs anD GuiDeBooKs
In addition to this guide, the Bureau provides complimentary publications, notably:
- the map-guide in ten languages (French, English, German, Spanish, Italian,
Portuguese, Russian, Japanese, Chinese and Korean);
- the French-English Paris gourmand/Good food guide;
- the French-English Paris Shopping Book guide;
- the French-English brochure of guided thematic visits Paris se visite/ Visiting Paris.
Ask for these at the Bureaus information centres!
informaTion cenTres
The Bureaus reception staff will answer your enquiries and give you advice in
your own language, in our offices (see below times subject to change).
At the information centres, you can:
- purchase passes for cultural venues or theme parks;
- choose a coach tour, a cruise on the Seine, an evening at a cabaret, etc;
- book the accommodation of your choice, in Paris or le-de-France.
Main welcome centre
25 rue des Pyramides (1st).
M Pyramides, Tuileries and Opra; RER A Auber.
2 May to 31 Oct: daily, 9am to 7pm.
1 Nov to 30 Apr: daily, 10am to 7pm.
Closed 1 May.
Gare de Lyon
20 bd Diderot (12th). M and RER A and D Gare-de-Lyon.
Daily: 8am to 6pm, except Sun and public hols.
Anvers
72 bd de Rochechouart (9th). M Anvers.
Daily: 10am to 6pm, except 1 Jan, 1 May and 25 Dec.
Gare de lEst
Place du 11-Novembre-1918 (10th).
On the arrival side of the TGV international
Rue dAlsace side. M Gare-de lEst.
Daily: 8am to 7pm, except Sun and public hols.
Gare du Nord
18 rue de Dunkerque (10th).
At the kiosk, under glass roof of train station.
M and RER B and D Gare-du-Nord.
Daily: 8am to 6pm, except 1 Jan, 1 May and 25 Dec.
Paris-Expo Porte-de-Versailles
1 place de la Porte-de-Versailles (15th).
Gate A, M Porte-de-Versailles.
11am to 7pm during trade shows and fairs.
Paris conVenTion
anD VisiTors Bureau
9
Pictograms
i
Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau.
Welcome ambassador kiosks
(summer season).
Tickets on sale in the offices of the Bureau
and/or on parisinfo.com
Sites included in the Paris Museum Pass
(see p.68).

Sites with activities for children.
abbreviations
M: metro station.
Mon: Monday, Tues: Tuesday, etc.
Jan: January, Feb: February, etc.
RR: reduced rate.
W/e: weekend (Saturday, Sunday).
Wk: weekday (Monday, Tuesday, etc.).
7th: 7th arrondissement.
Sch hols: school holidays.
Res: reservation.
Public hols: public holidays.
Info: information.
EU: European Union.
Welcome ambassador kiosks
Daily during summer season, except 1 May.
Champs-lyses Clemenceau
Corner of av. des Champs-lyses/av. de Marigny (8th).
M Champs-lyses Clemenceau.
Notre-Dame
Parvis de Notre-Dame (4th). M Cit.
Htel de Ville
Place de lHtel-de-Ville, rue de Rivoli side (4th).
M Htel-de-Ville.
Bastille
4 place de la Bastille (11th). M Bastille.
Partner welcome centres
Paris City Hall
29 rue de Rivoli (4th). M Htel-de-Ville.
Mon to Sat: 10am to 7pm (during exhibitions)
and 10am to 6pm (outside exhibitions).
Tel: 39 75 (0.15/min). www.paris.fr
Comit rgional du tourisme
Paris le-de-France
Information points: at the airports of Charles-de-
Gaulle and Orly, Versailles and Disneyland Paris.
www.nouveau-paris-ile-de-france.fr
Montmartre tourist office
21 place du Tertre (18th). M Abbesses.
Mon to Fri: 10am to 6pm, except 1 May.
Sat and Sun: 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 6pm.
Tel: 01 42 62 21 21.
www.montmartre-guide.com
DisaBleD PeoPle
Consult parisinfo.com for information on tourist facilities accessible to disabled
people and adapted services essential for an enjoyable stay (transport, specialized
equipment, toilets, etc.).
Tourisme & Handicap
The national Tourisme & Handicap label provides accurate information for disabled
people on the accessibility of venues (physical, mental, auditive or visual disabilities).
Cultural and leisure sites with the label are indicated in this guide by the logo
showing accessibility for one or more categories of disability.
Infomobi
Infomobi is a free service of the le-de-France transport authorities (STIF). It gives
information on facilities for accessibility on the public transport system and helps
people prepare their journeys according to their disability. Ask for the Parisian
transport network free maps, adapted for disabled people, at the welcome office
of the Bureau or by mail by telephoning 0 810 64 64 64 (price of a local call from a landline).
Telephone answering service daily, 6am to 12-midnight. www.infomobi.com
i
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Following the Seine through Paris is a way
of enjoying a thousand different escapades
on the river, its bridges and islands. Daytime
or night time, Left Bank or Right Bank,
you will appreciate the buzz of activity along
the quaysides and the lapping of the waves.
There are any number of ways to relax aboard
a boat, cycling, walking briskly, sauntering
lazily, or working out, dining, dancing on
barges, exploring an area between two
exhibitions, taking a post-shopping break,
or sunbathing in a swimsuit. You never fail
to be filled with wonder at these riverbanks,
classed as a world heritage site by Unesco.
Through the arch of a bridge youll catch sight
of the Grand and Petit Palais, people fishing,
mallard ducks circling in the water, the Louvre
playing hide and seek with a pleasure boat,
Notre-Dame looming up to the sound
of a street musician playing a violin and,
in the distance, the silhouette of a crane in
a naval construction yard between weeping
willow trees
Paris owes its motto to the Seine, fluctuat nec
mergitur it is buffeted by the waves but does
not sink. The Seine tells the story of Paris,
from its birthplace on the le de la Cit
to the transformation of the quays at Bercy
upstream and the triumphant Eiffel Tower
downstream.
River Seine
Bridges
Quays
Ports
P
A
R
I
S
DonT miss
13
wooden footbridge, which links
the weighty knowledge of the
Bibliothque Nationale library to
the gardens of Bercy in a graceful,
uplifting arch. That leaves thirty-two
bridges: discover your favourite.
seine riverside
booksellers
For four hundred years, booksellers
offering an array of great and
less familiar literature have lined
the embankment walls on both
sides of the river, from the Pont
Royal to the Pont de Sully. Each
of these small green boxes offers
up a marvellous assortment of
rare books, original editions,
engravings, postcards, illustrated
journals, comic strips, novels,
or intriguing odds and ends,
to passers-by.
Bridges of Paris
These thirty-seven bridges offer
stunning views of the city seen
from the river and recount thirty-
seven wonderful stories of kings,
battles, legends, etc., to discover
with the wind in your hair. Since
it was built in 1604, the Pont Neuf,
Pariss oldest bridge with its
385 sculpted masks and famous
half-moon-shaped turrets, has
seen the entire history of Paris
go by. The Pont Alexandre III,
star of the 1900 Exposition
Universelle, is a celebration
of Franco-Russian friendship
with an exuberance of sculpted
nymphs and garlands, bronze
candelabras and gleaming gold
equestrian statuary. The Pont
des Arts the haunt of lovers
is also a favourite place to linger
for dreamers and picnickers,
as is the Lopold-Sdar-Senghor
footbridge, which links the
Muse dOrsay to the Tuileries
gardens. The citys most recent
bridge is the Simone de Beauvoir
Josphine-Baker
swimming pool
Maybe you didnt know, but
floating baths were already
fashionable in the 18th century.
There were once several on
the Seine. The Josphine Baker
swimming pool, moored on
the Left Bank, reaffirms the genre
in a version that is high-tech
and ecologically-friendly,
with all modern comforts.
Facilities include a main pool
and a 50 sq.m. paddling pool
for children. There are also
solariums, saunas, a hammam,
a jacuzzi, and a fitness
and weights room.
Quai Franois-mauriac (13th).
m Quai-de-la-gare.
information (opening times,
prices and activities):
www.paris.fr
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fauna anD flora
good news! Fish and aquatic flora are returning
to the seine and the canals of Paris thanks
to an improvement in water quality, which gets
better every year. some thirty-two species are
now present (compared to only three in 1970):
chub, gudgeon, pike, bream, roach and even
salmon! Keeping them company, and sometimes
in competition with the fishermen, common
gulls, black-headed gulls, grey wagtails
and kingfishers animate the riverbanks,
not forgetting mallard ducks, and even coots
in winter.
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square du Vert-Galant
Henry IV was not considered a Don Juan or
a Casanova, simply because they hadnt been
born when he was alive. However, this great king
of France was well-known for his amorous exploits.
This square, accessible from the steps on the Pont
Neuf, carries its royal nickname to great effect
and forms the western point of the le de la Cit.
The equestrian statue of the monarch dominates
the small garden and forms an intimate haven
of calm, or romance if your heart be so inclined
from which to admire the two banks of the Seine,
its bridges and monuments.
Port de larsenal
The port has everything from landing stages and little
boats to a harbour masters office, gulls, and seafood
restaurants. Without the Colonne de Juillet rearing its
head nearby, one would almost think this marina
was a seaside harbour. Sheltered from the rivers
ebb and flow by a lock, the canal basin of this former
mercantile port links the River Seine with the Canal
Saint-Martin. The port provides 180 mooring spots
and a picturesque terraced garden where you can
step back onto terra firma amid the roses.
Jardin Tino-rossi
The Saint-Bernard quayside on the Left Bank,
between Pont de Sully and Pont dAusterlitz, has been
turned into a pleasant garden featuring works by
contemporary artists like Brancusi, Csar and Gilioli.
During the day this outdoor sculpture museum is a
paradise for joggers and walkers, while on spring
and summer evenings, it becomes an open-air
dance floor. Aficionados and beginners from all
over the world meet up here to dance the salsa,
rock and tango by the waterside. Magical moments
guaranteed!
Pniche du cercle de la mer
For ocean lovers. This boat moored at the quayside,
fires an enthusiasm for the sea and related maritime
activities with its library, exhibitions, visits, lunch
or dinner discussion sessions, the organization of
private receptions, etc.
Port-de-suffren (7th). m bir-Hakeim.
tel: 01 45 56 19 35. www.cercledelamer.com
DiscoVer
?
did yOu knOw?
Those firemen are everywhere, even near
the Pont Neuf, on a floating fire station. From
here, they can patrol the Seine in dinghies or
in light watercraft. Rescue, evacuation, assistance
to boats, floods, fire along the waterside
whatever the emergency, theyre on the alert.
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THE WATER
Dont miss the river seine!
there are lovely long walks
along its banks. but even
better is a boat trip on the
water.
For navigating the seine and
the picturesque canals in the
north-east of Paris, you have
a choice of vessels: barges,
panoramic boats, paddle boats,
shuttle boats, small yachts
and more. You also have a wide
choice of tours: trips with
commentaries translated into
numerous languages to ensure
you learn everything about the
history of the French capital,
lunch cruises or even
a candlelight dinner cruise.
and for those who are not
keen sailors, there are some
thirty or so boats and barges
transformed into cafes,
restaurants, discos and
entertainment venues.
these floating establishments
welcome the public aboard for
exhibitions, theatre plays,
concerts and are a complete
change of scene!
addresses and programmes:
see www.paris-ports.fr,
the website of the Paris port
authorities.
lunch and dinner
cruises, trips with
commentary
bateaux mistinguett and aliz
Port de la Rpe (12th).
M Gare-de-Lyon.
Tel: 01 45 85 07 43.
www.diner-croisiere-peniche.fr
Thematic dinner-show cruises:
Paris in song: Fri: 6.30pm
and 9.30pm. Sat: 6.30pm. 67.
Paris with a taste of the
Caribbean: Sat: 9.30pm. 80, 99.
bateaux mouches

+
Port de la Confrence (8th).
M Alma Marceau.
Tel: 01 42 25 96 10.
www.bateaux-mouches.fr
Cruises with commentary:
1 Apr to 30 Sept: every 45 min
from 10.15am-7pm and
every 20 min from 7-11pm.
1 Oct to 31 Mar: every 45 min
from 11am-9pm. (10.15am w/e).
11. Under 12s: 5.50.
Under 4s: free.
Lunch cruises: every Sat,
Sun and public hols: 1pm.
55. Under 12s: 29.
Dinner cruises:
every evening: 8.30pm.
99 and 140.
bateaux Parisiens +
Port de la Bourdonnais (7th).
M Trocadro, Bir-Hakeim.
Tel: 0 825 01 01 01 (0.15/min).
www.bateauxparisiens.com
Cruises with commentary:
Apr to Sept: every 30 min
from 10am-10.30pm.
Oct to Mar: every hour
from 10am-10pm.
Except 1.30pm and 7.30pm.
12. Under 12s: 5. Under 3s: free.
Lunch cruises:
daily (except 1 Jan): 12.45pm.
55, 64, 80.
Dinner cruises:
daily: 8.30pm.
99, 125, 160, 188.
Childrens sightseeing cruise.
canauxrama
Bassin de la Villette.
13 quai de la Loire (19th).
M Jaurs.
Tel: 01 42 39 15 00.
www.canauxrama.com
Reservations necessary.
Canal Saint-Martin:
daily, 9.45am and 2.30pm
from Port de lArsenal or 9.45am
and 2.45pm from Bassin
de la Villette.
16. RR: 12; 4-12 yrs: 8.50;
under 4s: free.
Cruise Bistrot on Seine
(May to Sept): Wed to Sat:
6pm and 9pm from Port
de lArsenal.
16, 4-12 yrs: 8.50,
under 4s: free.
Banks of the River Marne Day
(Apr to Oct): 9am from Port de
lArsenal. 35 (meal not included).
Cruise Atmosphere Evenings
on the Canal Saint-Martin
(July and Aug, Fri and Sat):
6pm from the Bassin de la Villette
or 9pm from the Port de lArsenal.
16. 4-12 yrs: 8.50;
under 4s: free.
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compagnie de la seine
capitaine Fracasse +
le aux cygnes (15th),
port de Grenelle.
M Bir-Hakeim.
Tel: 01 46 21 48 15.
www.lecapitainefracasse.com
Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, Oct and Nov:
Mon to Thurs: 8.30pm.
Fri and Sat: 7pm and 9.45pm.
Sun: 8.30pm.
May, June, July, Aug, Sept
and Dec:
Mon to Thurs: 7pm and 9.30pm.
Fri and Sat: 7pm and 9.45pm.
Sun: 8.30pm.
50 to 90. Children: 40.
compagnie de la seine
Paris en scne +
Quai des Orfvres (1st).
M and RER Saint-Michel
Notre-Dame.
Tel: 01 41 41 90 70.
www.paris-en-scene.com
One-hour Dinner-cruises.
Daily except Mon: 6.15pm, 8pm,
9.30pm. Fri and Sat: 11.30pm.
29, 39.
Sun: dinner-cruise by starred chef.
39 (check for information).
Leather armchairs facing
the Seine.
marina de Paris (La) +
Port de Solfrino (7th).
RER Muse-dOrsay.
Tel: 01 43 43 40 30.
www.marinadeparis.com
Lunch cruises:
Fri to Sun, 12.45pm.
36; 43. Under 11s: 32.
Dinner cruises:
6.45pm: 52. Under 11s: 32.
9.15pm: 65, 81, 94.
Under 11s: 32.
Paris canal
Bassin de la Villette.
19-21 quai de la Loire (19th).
M Jaurs.
Tel: 01 42 40 96 97.
www.pariscanal.com
Canal Saint-Martin
and the Seine (2h30):
daily on reservation:
9.30am (departure Muse
dOrsay) or 2.30pm (departure
Parc de la Villette).
19. 12-25 yrs and over 60s:
16. 4-11 yrs: 12.
Canal Saint-Martin and the Seine
(1hr30). 9.30am (depart from
Muse dOrsay).
14. 4-11 yrs: 11.
Boats can be privatized for groups
of 2 to 200 people.
vedettes de Paris
Port de Suffren (7th).
M Bir-Hakeim.
Tel: 01 44 18 19 50.
www.vedettesdeparis.com
One-hour multilingual cruises
with commentary: 12.
4-12 yrs: 5. Under 4s: free.
Themed cruises (7 to 45).
Apr, May, June and Sept:
from 11am-10pm, every 30 min.
July, Aug, Easter hols: from
10.30am-11pm, every 20 min.
Jan, Feb and from Oct to Dec:
from 11am-7pm, every 45 min.
Dinner-cruises: Sat, at 8pm.
80. Under 12s: 40.
vedettes du Pont-neuf
Square du Vert Galant (1st).
M Pont-Neuf.
Tel: 01 46 33 98 38.
www.vedettesdupontneuf.com
Daily, every 30 min/45 min.
13. 4-12 yrs: 7. Under 4s: free.
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Paris-PlaGes (Paris-BeacHes)
From mid-July to mid-August, the banks of the
Seine close to traffic and are transformed into a
free beach resort with sand, palm trees, deckchairs
and parasols. On the right bank it extends from
the Louvre to the Pont de Sully, and includes the
La Villette canal basin, and on the left bank, from
the Pont de Tolbiac to the Simone-de-Beauvoir
footbridge. Paris-Plages also offers sporting activities
and cultural events. informations: www.paris.fr
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Port de la Rape (12th).
M Gare-de-Lyon.
Tel: 01 48 84 45 30.
www.le-vip-paris.com
Dinner-cruises with
accommodation aboard.
Every w/e except during
privatization or special events.
159, 229, 279.
http://store.le-vip-paris.com
Yachts de Paris
Port Henri-IV (4th).
M Sully-Morland.
Tel: 01 44 54 14 70.
www.yachtsdeparis.fr
Upscale and bespoke lunches
and dinners.
Dinner-cruises: 8.30pm.
198. Cruises of 45 min and 1hr15
for groups from 20 people.
Shuttle boat
batobus +
Tel: 0 825 05 01 01 (0.15/min).
www.batobus.com
Seasonal transport service
on the Seine with 8 stops.
(Tour Eiffel, Muse dOrsay,
Saint-Germain-des-Prs,
Notre-Dame, Jardin des Plantes,
Htel de Ville, Louvre,
Champs-lyses).
Daily, every 17 to 35 min.
1-day ticket: 15; under 16s: 7.
2-consecutive-day ticket: 18;
under 16s: 9.
5-consecutive-day ticket:
21; under 16s: 10.
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who said that ancient stone wasnt exciting?
In the Latin Quarter and on the le de la Cit
and le Saint-Louis, which form the historic
heart of Paris, they are charged with emotion,
light and magical shadows. Embark on a
treasure hunt and discover the impressive
sculpted facade of Notre-Dame or the sublime
series of stained-glass windows of Sainte-
Chapelle.
Venture through the labyrinth of alleyways
on the Left Bank, once bustling with hawkers,
charlatans, already rebellious students,
and cut-throats. Or like Baudelaire and Camille
Claudel, opt for a gentle walk past private
mansion houses on the le Saint-Louis.
On this walk, you will pass bishops, rare
birds and tulips at a little flower market,
a queen, several poisoners, and the Girondins
assembled for their last banquet at the
Conciergerie. You will come across scientists
from the Museum, mammoths and Japanese
cherry-blossom trees, the jewellery of fine
ladies of times gone by at the Htel de Cluny,
Gallo-Romans at a grand event or the baths,
and the patron saint of Paris Bon voyage.
le de la Cit (4th)
Quartier latin (5th)
le Saint-Louis (4th)
Jardin des plantes (5th)
DonT miss
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PARADIS LATIN
PARADIS LATIN
Cit (line 4) Saint-Michel (line 4) Odon (lines 4, 10) Jussieu (lines 7, 10)
Censier-daubenton (line 7) Cluny-la-Sorbonne (line 10) Cardinal-Lemoine (line 10)
a breathtaking view across
the rooftops of Paris.
Parvis notre-Dame.
Place Jean-Paul-ii (4th). m cit.
cathedral
tel: 01 42 34 56 10.
mon to Fri: 8am-6.45pm.
sat and sun: 8am-7.15pm.
Limited access on sun
due to services.
www.cathedraledeparis.com
towers
Pass
Daily except 1 Jan, 1 may
and 25 Dec.
1 oct to 31 mar: 10am-5.30pm.
1 apr to 30 sept: 10am-6.30pm.
sat and sun, from 1 Jul to 31 aug:
10am-11pm. 8.50 rr: 5.50.
Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU and
1st sun of the month (from nov
to mar): free.
www.monuments-nationaux.fr
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notre-Dame de Paris
The beginning of its long
construction coincided with the
choice of Paris as a capital and,
on the square in front of the
cathedral, a bronze star inscribed
zero kilometre indicates the
centre of the country in terms of
travelling distances. A symbol of
Gothic art, its harmonious layout
seems to be the work of just one
architect, yet dozens followed on
from the 12th to the 19th century,
the date of its restoration by
Viollet-le-Duc. The cathedral has
witnessed Saint Louis, barefoot,
wearing the Crown of Thorns in
1239, the coronation of Napolon
in 1804, the celebration of the
Liberation of Paris in 1944 and
you too, as you climb the 422 steps
leading to the top. Like Victor
Hugos Quasimodo, you will then
find yourself face to face with
some of its grimacing gargoyles.
You will also be able to make the
acquaintance of the thirteen-ton
bell named Emmanuel, and enjoy
archaeological crypt
of the parvis notre-Dame
Pass
tel: 01 55 42 50 10.
Daily: 10am-6pm, except mon,
easter sun and Whit sun.
4 rr: 2, 3.
Under 14s: free.
www.crypte.paris.fr

le de la cit
and le saint-louis
Despite being the birthplace of
Paris, these two neighbouring
islands, embraced by the arms
of the Seine, are very different.
On the le de la Cit, amid a flurry
of uniforms and lawyers gowns,
you go from one historic site to
another: Place Dauphine, the
Conciergerie, Sainte-Chapelle,
?
did yOu knOw?
It was here on the le de la Cit
that the centre of Paris first
developed, in Gallo-Roman
times: you can see vestiges
of its remains in the crypt.
Htel-Dieu, Notre-Dame
The Pont Saint-Louis marks the
boundary often with music
beyond which lies the tranquility
of sumptuous mansion houses.
A refuge for artists and poets, the
le Saint-Louis is also a haven for
gourmets judging by the profusion
of restaurants, cafes, ice-cream
makers and confectioners, whose
tempting windows line the rue
Saint-Louis-en-lle.
Panthon +
Pass
Its dome dominates the Latin
Quarter and gives its name
to the similarly solemn square,
at the centre of which it stands.
This colossal civic temple worthily
upholds the motto inscribed on
its pediment that honours the
nations great men. An irony of
history, this monument dedicated
to Republican liturgies was
commissioned by Louis XV in 1744
to honour Sainte-Genevive.
But with the Revolution underway,
the scarcely finished basilica
was transformed into a civic
temple in 1791 and consecrated
as the national Panthon in 1885,
at the funeral of Victor Hugo.
A synthesis of neoclassical and
Gothic-style architecture, it also
houses the tombs of Pierre and
Marie Curie, Alexandre Dumas,
Jean Jaurs, Andr Malraux,
Jean Moulin, Jean-Jacques
Rousseau and Voltaire.
Place du Panthon (5th).
rer Luxembourg.
tel: 01 44 32 18 00.
summer: 10am-6.30pm.
Winter: 10am-6pm.
Daily except 1 Jan, 1 may
and 25 Dec.
8.50 rr: 5.50.
Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU and
1st sun of month from nov
to mar: free.
www.monuments-nationaux.fr



Quartier latin
On the Left Bank, in the vicinity
of the University founded in
the 12th century, Latin was the
language most commonly spoken
by professors and students. This
tradition seems to have died out
but the name remains. Around the
Sorbonne, the Collge de France,
prestigious schools and the
Sainte-Genevive library, there
are still numerous bookshops,
publishers, and cafes, where
students revise for their exams,
as well as tiny art-house cinemas.
Of course, the Saint-Michel
fountain is not only a meeting
point for students, many
businesses have now moved
into the area, but the memory of
Professor Ablard and the paving
stones of May 1968 still linger
here and there.
sainte-chapelle +
Pass
Next to the Palais de Justice
(law courts), Sainte-Chapelle and
the Conciergerie are the precious
remains of what was once the
palace of the kings of France from
the 10th to the 14th century. The
Sainte-Chapelle, a triumphantly
flamboyant example of the Gothic
style, was commissioned by
Saint Louis. In the lower chapel,
dedicated to the Virgin, gilded
lilies on an azure-blue star-
studded vault are a wonderful
sight. But reserve your praise
for the upper chapel, designed
to house the relics of Christs
Passion, dispersed during the
French Revolution, and lined
with predominantly red and blue
stained-glass windows the
largest expanse of 13th century
stained glass in the world.
6 bd du Palais (1st).
m cit.
Daily except 1 Jan, 1 may
and 25 Dec.
summer: 9.30am-6pm. Winter:
9am-5pm. Wed (mid-may to
mid-sept): 9.30pm.
8.50 rr: 5.50.
combined ticket with the
conciergerie: 12.50 rr: 8.50.
Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU and
1st sun of the month (from nov
to mar): free.
www.monuments-nationaux.fr
conciergerie +
Pass
The Conciergerie was once a royal
palace. Imagine the enormous
Salle des Gens dArmes with
two thousand persons sitting
down to eat, and kitchens buzzing
with kitchen boys. Above all the
Conciergerie was a prison up until
the 19th century: the regicidal
Ravaillac, Marie-Antoinette and
many others, especially during
the darker days of the French
Revolution, spent their last
days here.
Palais de la cit.
2 bd du Palais (1st). m cit.
Daily: 9.30am-6pm.
1 Jan, 1 may and 25 Dec: closed.
8.50 rr: 5.50. combined
ticket with the sainte-chapelle:
12.50 rr: 8.50.
Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU and
1st sun of the month (from nov
to mar): free.
www.monuments-nationaux.fr
?
did yOu knOw?
Lon Foucault set up an
experiment with a pendulum,
under a cupola of the
Panthon, to prove the rotation
on the Earth.
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DiscoVer
Institut du monde arabe
Pass
Arab-Muslim civilization is showcased at the centre
of timeless Paris in this superb glass and steel
building, designed by Jean Nouvel and Architecture
Studio, and built in 1987. Behind the mobile
moucharabiyah screens that regulate the amount
of sunlight entering the building, tradition and
modern technology work together to set the tone.
An ultra-modern oriental gentleness reigns over
the museum, exhibition rooms, auditorium, library
and media library for young people, language centre,
bookshop, restaurant and literary cafe. One can also
enjoy temporary exhibitions, mint tea and concerts,
dance and cinema, conferences, sugar-covered
shortbread crescents, art workshops and more.

collections of the ima
The museums collections showcase the very
essence of Arab-Muslim art, from ancient history
to the 20th century and from the far reaches of
central Asia to the shores of the Atlantic. Phoenician
amphora and Yemenite perfume burners bear witness
to the pre-Islamic era before the flourishing dynasties
of Damascus and Baghdad, and the blossoming
of science. And finally, explore the treasures
of the golden age: glass, metal, ceramics, wood
encrusted with ivory, shell, pewter, and mother
of pearl, and the ideal, sacred world of carpets.
1 rue des Fosss-saint-bernard (5th).
m Jussieu. tel: 01 40 51 38 38.
tues to Fri: 10am-6pm. mon and 1 may: closed.
sat, sun and public hols: 10am to 7pm.
www.imarabe.org
muse de cluny -
muse national du moyen ge
Pass
Since 1843, the muse de Cluny has encompassed
two architectural marvels: the Gallo-Roman baths,
dating from the end of the 1st century BC, and the
Htel des Abbs de Cluny, built in the 15th century.
The main building and the wings of the htel reveal
the layout of subsequent centuries, but the Middle
Ages is resplendent and even more so inside.
Sculpture, gold and silver plate, ceramics, tapestry,
furniture, and everyday objects provide a unique
picture of medieval art and society. Between the
little chapel sculpted with foliage and the secular
sanctuary dedicated to the La Dame la Licorne
(The Lady with the Unicorn) tapestries, there is
an extensive collection of golden crowns, Byzantine
ivory, daggers and coats of chain mail. Of the ancient
Gallo-Roman baths, one can see the remains
of the tepid baths and caldarium, a kind of sauna.
However, the best conserved part is the frigidarium.
Here one was sprayed with cold water after passing
through the steam baths. See also the impressive
fifteen-metre-high vaults and the remains
of the sculpted pillars of tritons that pay tribute
to the corporation of nautes (Gallic boatmen).
6 place Paul-Painlev (5th). m cluny-la-sorbonne.
tel: 01 53 73 78 16. Daily: 9.15am-5.45pm,
except tues, 1 Jan, 1 may and 25 Dec. 8 rr: 6.
Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU and 1st sun of the month: free.
www.musee-moyenage.fr
medieval garden
The museums gardens, of medieval inspiration,
prolong the journey in the Unicorn Forest. Take
a walk through the mnagier (a kitchen garden for pot
plants), observe the medicinal plants, and admire
the inner courtyard dotted with flowers, the Heavenly
Garden and the Garden of Love.
laDy WiTH THe unicorn
Up until the 19th century, this series of six
tapestries adorned the walls of a chateau
in the creuse region. each represents a lady
surrounded by a lion, a unicorn and a monkey
on a vermillion background strewn with flowers.
the first five tapestries are allegories of the
senses with a sweetmeat, an organ, a mirror,
flowers and the unicorns horn held by the lady.
the sixth, entitled mon seul dsir (to my
only desire) depicts jewels placed in a casket,
symbolising what lies beyond our passions.
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?
did yOu knOw?
Before coming back down to earth, you can
prolong the enchantment on the terrace
and take in all of Paris in one glance!
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musum national dhistoire
naturelle
This has been one of the favourite walks
of Parisians since 1640! It was in this year that
the Jardin Royal des Plantes Mdicinales (Royal
Medicinal Plants Garden), created by Louis XIII
in 1635, became the first public garden in Paris.
Under the influence of Buffon and the Jussieu
botanist brothers, the garden was enlarged and an
emphasis placed on research. Renamed Musum
National dHistoire Naturelle in 1793, exhibition
galleries were added in the 19th and 20th centuries.
The Natural History Museum is set within over
23 hectares of plants and trees and harmoniously
combines the natural sciences with crpes and sweets
kiosks. But what exactly is there to do here ?
57 rue cuvier (5th). m Jussieu.
tel: 01 40 79 56 01/54 79. www.mnhn.fr

Jardin des plantes
Wander peacefully among the statues, lime trees
from Russia, the olive trees from Bohemia, and twenty
or so trees over one hundred years old. The oldest a
Cedar of Lebanon was planted in 1734. Climb to the
belvedere, at the top of a little hill named Labyrinthe,
for a romantic embrace. Youll pass school children
out on the trail of dinosaurs or here to learn about
gardening. Explore the greenhouses, the educational
vegetable garden, the Alpine garden, and the rose,
iris, rock and peony gardens.
Daily: from sunrise to sunset. Free.
www.jardindesplantes.net
galeries de palontologie et danatomie compare
In a building dating back to 1900 characterized
by girders and metallic sculptures, visitors learn
the alphabet of vertebrates and invertebrates.
Admire the skeleton of Louis XVs rhinoceros and
hundreds of fossilized exhibits, including dinosaurs,
mammoths, etc.
Wed to mon: 10am-5pm. sat, sun and public hols:
10am-6pm (apr to sept).
1st may: closed. 7 tr: 5. Under 26s: free.

galerie de minralogie et de gologie
Discover over 600,000 rocks and minerals, gigantic
crystals, meteorites and even precious stones from
former royal collections.
closed for renovation work.

greenhouses
Fully renovated and reorganized, the greenhouses
of the Jardin des plantes delight the public. They
are laid out in such a way that the visitor is guided
like an explorer through a discovery of the different
environments and learns about their fragility
and the current challenges for preserving them.
Wed to mon: 10am-5pm in winter; 10am-6pm
(6.30pm sun and public hols) in summer.
1 may: closed. 6 rr: 4.
grande galerie de lvolution
In subdued lighting under a huge glass roof, one can
see a spectacular parade of stuffed animals
and you would swear that they were about to move!
The surrounding permanent exhibition provides an
educational journey through our diverse living world,
the evolution of organisms and the effect of man on
his environment.
Daily, except tues and 1 may: 10am-6pm.
7 rr: 5. Under 26s: free. With the temporary
exhibition: 9 rr: 7. Under 4s: free. With the
galerie des enfants: 9 rr: 7. Under 4s: free.
res. advised on www.galeriedesenfants.fr
mnagerie
This little zoo is home to Sichuan takins, Seychelles
turtles and almost one thousand mammals, birds
and reptiles, in a landscape with footbridges and
small pavilions. Visitors can picnic here. Not to be
missed are the monkey house and wild-cat house
major architectural feats from the 1930s nor the
white storks and black-crowned cranes, under the
finely netted dome of the great aviary, which dates
from 1888.
Daily: 9am-6pm (6.30pm sun and public hols)
in summer, 9am to 5pm in winter. 9 rr: 7.
Under 4s: free.

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sainTe GeneViVe,
PaTron sainT of Paris
born in nanterre, genevive (422-512) was
a member of the gallo-roman aristocracy.
When the Francs invaded gaul and besieged
Paris in 451, she ensured supplies got to
the city. Later, she encouraged clovis to be
baptised and, so it is said, accomplished many
miracles. buried at the top of the hill which
carries her name (on the present site of
the Pantheon), genevive was canonized
in the 8th century. she is invoked especially
whenever any ill threatens the city and she
is always the object of the greatest devotion,
particularly at the church of saint-tienne-
du-mont, situated behind the Panthon.
rue mouffetard
and Place de la contrescarpe
In the small paved Place de la Contrescarpe,
restaurant and cafe terraces encircle the village
fountain. The Pomme de Pin store, still visible
at no.1, is a reminder that the area was once filled
with cabarets. It is here that the rue Mouffetard,
once the only road leading from Lutetia (Paris)
to Rome, starts to trace its medieval line; today
it is the place to pause for an affordable bite to eat
in the lively pubs and cafes. But good food is making
its mark again, and under many a sloping faade
youll find window displays of traditional breads
and cakes, stalls of charcuterie, and mounds of fruit
and vegetables, leading to the small and colourful
market that stretches from the bottom of the street
to the Saint-Mdard church bell tower.
Ancienne abbaye royale
du Val-de-Grce
Anne of Austria, the young queen abandoned by her
husband Louis XIII, vowed to build a magnificent
temple to God if he sent her a son. Her wish was
granted with the birth of the future Louis XIV, in
1638, after over twenty years of marriage. She had
to wait another seventeen years to see the beginning
of the building work, which was completed after
her death, in 1669. Magnificently preserved thanks
to the military hospital established here since 1796,
the royal abbey of Val-de-Grce is a unique gem
of 17th century religious architecture.
abbey: rue saint-Jacques (church court
entrance) (5th). rer b Port-royal.
muse du service de sant des armes :
1 place alphonse-Laveran (5th). tel: 01 40 51 51 92.
tues, Wed, sat and sun:12-noon to 6pm.
5 rr: 2.50.
another Paris
A visit with commentary, aboard a little enclosed
train, allowing visitors to discover the different
areas of Paris.
mon to Fri: marais, Quartier Latin, saint-germain-
des-Prs, Louvre-opra (one-hour tour).
12. 4-12 yrs: 6.50.
sat and sun: montparnasse, montsouris, Puces
de vanves (two-hour tour). 19. 4-12 yrs: 9.
French, english, german, spanish and italian spoken.
Departure: rue Lagrange (5th).
m saint-michel or rue de lamiral-de-coligny (1st).
m Louvre-rivoli. tel: 06 31 99 29 38.
www.another-paris.com

Paradis latin
Situated a short walk away from Notre Dame
and the Panthon, the Paradis Latin is the oldest
of Pariss cabarets. Founded by Napolon Bonaparte,
the cabaret fell into ruin but was eventually rebuilt
by Gustave Eiffel. It was a gathering place for artists,
intellectuals and students but it wasnt until
the famous singer Yvette Guilbert achieved glory
on its stage that the venue became a truly successful
and popular one.
28 rue du cardinal-Lemoine (5th).
m cardinal-Lemoine. see p.106.
arnes de lutce
In the 1st and 2nd centuries BC, this amphitheatre
held up to 15,000 people, who came to see plays,
comedies, gladiator combats and wild beasts
fighting. Together with the forum and the baths,
the amphitheatre constituted the centre of the
Gallo-Roman city. Rediscovered in 1869, while
building rue Monge, the restored amphitheatre has
been reopened, offering its stone terracing and stage
to the city impromptu football matches take place
here after school, as well as games of ptanque
and just general lazing around in the sun.
49 rue monge (5th). m cardinal-Lemoine.
opening times vary according to season. Free.
the splendour of Pariss
monuments and the
diversity of its architecture
are a source of constant
fascination. centuries of
magnificent works have
left masterpieces like
the Louvre palace, the
cathedral of notre-Dame,
the eiffel tower and the
basilica of sacr-cur.
but in addition to these
legendary sites, the capital
offers an incomparable
historical treasure trove
for visitors, who only have
to look around them or
peep through gates into the
former carriage courtyards
of htels particuliers.
the city unveils its treasures
in palaces, splendid town
houses, churches and chapels,
the metro, covered arcades,
train stations, warehouses
and industrial wasteland.
even certain street numbers
or plaques merit a look.
From the remains of Lutetia
(the citys first name in
roman times) to the great
contemporary projects of
today, each era has left its
special mark. to discover this
wonderful heritage, a good
pair of shoes is recommended
together with a map of Paris,
insatiable curiosity and, why
not the insight of a guide.
Did you know, for example,
that at night, one can stroll
through phantom, that is
disused, metro stations?
The metro
The Mtropolitain was inaugurated
at the Exposition Universelle of
1900 and linked its major sites.
Designed by the engineer Fulgence
Bienvene, it was Hector Guimard
who designed the 84 art nouveau
entrances, two of which still
exist at the Abbesses and Porte-
Dauphine metro stations. White
earthenware tiles and sculpted
frames are the hallmark of the
Parisian metro. Over the years, the
metro has accumulated works of
art: the Kiosque des Noctambules
by Othoniel, in Place Colette (the
entrance to the Palais-Royal
Muse-du-Louvre) metro station;
the Constitution written on the
walls on the platforms of Concorde
metro station; a revolutionary
fresco at Bastille; the Nautilus
submarine as seen by Jules Verne
at Arts-et-Mtiers; the history
of the 20th century in pictures
at Tuileries, and more.
Train stations
In the 19th century the railway was
the definitive symbol of modern
times and the train station its
temple. Built in 1851, then rebuilt
thirty years later, Saint-Lazare,
with its metal structure and glass
roofs avant-gardist in their
time- inspired artists. The Orsay
train station (today a magnificent
museum) was inaugurated for the
Exposition Universelle of 1900. The
Lyon train station was given a new
makeover for the same occasion;
the prestige of the train, a new
way of travel, is still apparent
in the luxurious salons of its
restaurant Le Train Bleu. The train
stations are the gateways of Paris.
They bore witness to the first
departures of paid holidays
and saw the arrival of the first
troops back from the front
in times of war; they saw
the arrival of inhabitants from
the Alsace, the Auvergne,
and Brittany, who came to seek
work as servants or building
workers, or even open brasseries.
These places, charged with history
and endowed with architectural
splendours and the latest
technology, are well worth a visit!
Private mansions
(htels particuliers)
One has to go back to the Middle
Ages to find the origins of the
Parisian htel. The residence of
a powerful lord or rich bourgeois
was set around an interior
courtyard. In the 16th century
the U-shaped plan became the
fashion: a main building, looking
on to both the courtyard and
the garden, was flanked by
two wings. In the 17th century,
the model spread to the Marais
and the faubourgs Saint-Germain
and Saint-Honor, giving rise to
wonderful architectural mansions.
Although the hotels Biron,
Carnavalet, de Cluny, Dassault,
Matignon, Salomon de Rothschild
and de Sully are the most
well-known, there are countless
others to be discovered as you
walk around.
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AND HERITAGE
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nuiT Des muses (museum niGHT)
On 19 May 2012, this Europe-wide event enabled an ever greater
number of people to visit Parisian museums for free, between
6pm and midnight. The secret of its success? It is free in most
museums, it is night time, but above all it is the opportunity for
chance encounters in museums discovered in the moonlight.
Establishments vie with each other for unusual ideas, searching
their collections to present a rich programme of special events
around the annual theme. Visitors who have not yet explored
Museum Night should go along to the 9th edition in May 2013.
squares
Designed for gatherings and
celebrations, the places (squares),
of royal or republican origin, are
highly symbolic places. Their
layout was artfully thought out
to glorify the statue of a king or
the emblem of power erected at
their centre. Place Dauphine was
thus linked to Henri IV, Place des
Vosges to Louis XIII, and Place des
Victoires to Louis XIV. Louis XV
was replaced in Place Vendme
by the column of Napolon, and
dethroned at Concorde by the
obelisk of Louis-Philippe. As their
names indicate, the Place de la
Bastille, Place de la Rpublique
and Place de la Nation seek rather
to exalt revolutions and values of
citizenship.
Historic streets
How many streets of Paris have
witnessed major events? Their
name or commemorative plaques
keep history alive. So, boulevard
Saint-Germain is inextricably
linked to May 68, just like
the Champs-lyses is to the
jubilation of the Liberation of
Paris. The boulevard des grands
magasins (of major department
stores) bears the name of Baron
Haussmann, who transformed
the capital in the 19th century with
wide avenues. Sometimes, small
streets have their story to tell.
In May 1610, the carriage of Henri
IV entered the small street de la
Ferronnerie, which was narrow and
full of stalls. The royal equipage
had to slow down and Ravaillac
took advantage of the occasion
to stab the king who died on his
return to the Louvre. To relive
these great historical moments
consult the brown plaques that
relate these fascinating episodes
of the history of Paris in the places
that they actually happened.
street furniture
The stamp placed on the Parisian
landscape by Haussmann
and Guimard is quite familiar.
However, it is the architect
Davioud who gave the city its
street furniture, be it functional
or decorative and which still
characterizes the capital today.
The circular cast-iron frameworks
that encircle trees are identical
to those created at the time of
the Second Empire. Some lamp
posts, lanterns and double
benches, as well as the Morris
columns (where the programme
of shows are displayed) and the
Wallace fountains also date from
this period.
Places of worship
Paris has two hundred churches
and among these the most
emblematic and most visted:
the Sacr-Cur, the Madeleine,
Notre-Dame cathedral, etc.
Tourists and Parisians come
together during church services or
for programmed concerts.
Other faiths are also represented
with the orthodox cathedral
Saint-Alexandre-Nevsky, the
Grande Mosque or the Grande
Synagogue of the community
de la Victoire.
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euroPean HeriTaGe Days (Journes
euroPennes Du PaTrimoine)
Each year, on the 3rd weekend in September (15 and
16 September 2012), public and private buildings
open exceptionally for this occasion. In Paris, you
can visit the lyse Palace (the official residence of
the French president), the Snat (the upper house
of the French parliament), town halls, the backstage
of theatres Visits to public heritage sites are free,
private sites often charge a reduced fee.
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Take a gentle stroll between the Place du
Chtelet and Place des Vosges to enjoy a spot
of shopping, or discover local heritage in
fact, everything is possible as long as you know
how to juggle with different styles.
The medieval Jean-sans-Peur Tower surges
out from amongst Haussmanian buildings,
while the flamboyant Gothic architecture
of the Saint-Jacques Tower is just a stones
throw from the fountain at Chtelet, built in
praise of Napolon I. The square in front of
the neo-Renaissance Paris City Hall is also
an impromptu venue for beach-volleyball.
The church of Saint-Eustache, where Molire
was christened, stands next to the metallic
footbridges of the Les Halles gardens
due to be completely revamped between
now and 2016. A few steps away from the
Renaissance bas-reliefs of the Fountain
of the Innocents is the Pompidou Centre,
symbol of 20th-century architecture and home
to modern and contemporary art collections.
The Marais district combines a whirl of creative
design with the delights of the Jewish Quarter,
around rue des Rosiers, and a magnificently
preserved historic centre. Busy streets give
way to tiny enclosed squares and gardens and
numerous museums, including the Carnavalet,
Picasso and the National Archives, housed
in mansion houses that rival each other
in splendour.
Marais (4th)
Montorgueil (2nd)
Htel de Ville (4th)
Les Halles (1st)
DonT miss
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Saint-Paul (line 1) Htel-de-Ville (lines 1, 11) Rambuteau (line 11) Arts-et-Mtiers
(lines 3, 11) Chtelet (lines 1, 4, 7, 11, 14) tienne-Marcel (line 4) Les Halles (line 4)
Place des Vosges and
maison de Victor Hugo
Formerly known as the Place
Royale, this square has remained
intact miraculously so since it
was commissioned by Henri IV in
1604. The thirty-six townhouses
have constituted a perfect
symmetry from the day they were
built, with their brick facades,
deep-pitched slate roofs and
the ground floor made up of a
gallery of arcades for walking.
Add a few musketeers and youd
think you were in a swashbuckling
adventure film or back to
the splendid carrousel that
inaugurated the square in 1612
to celebrate the wedding of
Louis XIII and Anne of Austria.
Since then, each house has
boasted a rich history of art,
literature and many a famous
name. Madame de Svign was
born at the Htel de Coulanges;
Cardinal Richelieu, Thophile
Gautier and the tragic actress
Rachel, also lived there, as well
as Victor Hugo, from 1832 to 1848.
Transformed into a museum, his
apartment in the Htel de Rohan-
Gumne reveals the story of
his life, from the antechamber
of his youth to his death bed, not
forgetting a visit to the Chinese
salon, where he played out his
love affair with Juliette Drouet.
If you look closely, youll see their
initials in trompe-loeil.
Htel de rohan-gumne.
6 place des vosges (4th).
m saint-Paul.
tel: 01 42 72 10 16.
Daily: 10am-6pm, except mon,
public hols, easter sun and
Whit sun.
Permanent collections free.
www.musee-hugo.paris.fr

Pompidou centre
Pass
At the heart of the Marais,
the Centre Pompidou a
project completed by Renzo
Piano and Richard Rogers in
1977 exemplifies a unique,
timeless and resolutely modern
architectural style, and provides
visitors with one of the most
beautiful views of the capital.
Behind its coloured pipe meshing,
the building houses a large
number of exhibition spaces
dedicated to culture and art,
making it the largest museum
of modern and contemporary art
in Europe. The museum displays
masterpieces of the key figures of
modern art Picasso, Kandinsky,
Matisse, Chagall, Lger, Miro,
Dal, Dubuffet, Klein as well
as important artists from the
contemporary scene Buren,
Boltanski, Opalka, Twombly,
Hanta, Tallon, Widmer,
Garouste Contemporary culture
is for everyone, and the choice
here is impressive: exhibition
rooms, performance spaces,
a cinema, a gallery for children,
library and book shop.
Place georges-Pompidou (4th).
m Htel-de-ville.
tel: 01 44 78 12 33.
11am-9pm, except tues and 1 may.
the entrance ticket muse et
expositions gives access to the
muse national dart moderne,
the exhibitions and panoramic
terrace.
11 to 13 according to period.
rr: 9/10. Under 18s (museum
and exhibitions), 18-25 yrs eU
(except exhibition) and 1st sun of
the month (except exhibition):
free. www.centrepompidou.fr


around beaubourg

Beaubourg, which takes its
nickname from the name of
the district, has blended into
the landscape, and is a great
success with millions of visitors
each year, extending its popularity
to the esplanade and the Place
Stravinsky that surround it.
In the former, which feels rather
like a mini Woodstock, you can
sit around jugglers, listen to
guitar music, and visit the
Brancusi workshop. In the second,
you can take in the multicoloured
mobile fountain by Jean Tinguely
and Niki de Saint Phalle.
Htel de Ville
Do you know the Maison aux
Piliers? Of course you do its
on the Place de Grve! On this
square, you can ice-skate in
winter, watch top match events
on big screens, and take part
in free activities every summer
when the banks of the Seine
turn into Paris-Plages.
Feeling lost? Well actually,
thats understandable. In the
12th century, the administration
of Paris was entrusted to the
corporation of water merchants,
who controlled navigation
on the Seine. tienne Marcel,
the provost of the merchants,
transferred the seat of the
municipality to the Maison
aux Piliers the current site
of the Paris City Hall in 1357.
The square then Place de
Grve became a spot for popular
merrymaking and public
punishment. Crowds congregated
to witness all sorts of executions
until 1830. Workers also used to
wait for work here, giving rise in
the 19th century to the expression
tre en grve (to be on strike).
As for the Htel de Ville (Paris
City Hall), which replaced the
Maison aux Piliers, it burnt down
over eight days, in 1871, during
the events of the Commune.
Completed in 1882, the current
building reflects the splendor
of the 3rd Republic. A sumptuous
interior boasts chandeliers,
gilding and wood panelling, while
the external neo-Renaissance
facades are decorated with
a profusion of niches and no less
than 378 sculpted works.
Paris city Hall (4th).
m Htel-de-ville.
tel: 01 42 76 50 49.
Free guided tours (French,
english) of the salons of
the Htel de ville, by prior
appointment only, according
to official events. rooms
accessible to disabled people.
www.paris.fr
muse Picasso
Pass
Completed in 1659, the mansion
which houses the museum has
retained the cheeky nickname
Sal (salty) in memory of the
ostentatious tastes of its first
owner who made a fortune
by taxing salt. Behind its
monumental facade, you can
admire a unique collection of
works by Picasso. 203 paintings,
158 sculptures, more than
3,000 engravings and drawings,
sketchbooks, etc.
Htel sal.
5 rue de thorigny (3rd).
m saint-Paul.
tel: 01 42 71 25 21.
closed for renovation work
until summer 2013.
www.musee-picasso.fr
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?
did yOu knOw?
It is possible to surf on the
Place Pompidou! There is a
free Wi-Fi connection in and
around the Centre and at
more than 260 municipal sites
(gardens, town halls, etc.).
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muse carnavalet histoire de Paris
The museum of the history of Paris takes its visitors
from the Neolithic canoes of the Gallic Parisii tribe
to the bedroom of Marcel Proust. Two resplendent
adjoining townhouses offer the perfect setting for this
fascinating story. The Htel Carnavalet, built in 1548,
traces the the Paris of the Renaissance, the wars
of Religion and the city in the 18th century.
In the Htel Le Peletier de Saint-Fargeau, it is
Paris-Revolution, then Napolon leaving on one
of his campaigns with his personal effects in gilded
silver. And again it is the Paris of Mucha, art nouveau,
a ballroom from the roaring Twenties, etc.
23 rue de svign (3rd). m saint-Paul.
tel: 01 44 59 58 58. Daily: 10am-6pm, except mon,
public hols, easter sun and Whit sun. Permanent
collections free. www.carnavalet.paris.fr
Htel de sully
Ploughing and grazing are the two teats of France
affirmed Maximilien of Bthune, Duke of Sully
and superintendent of the finances of Henri IV.
Nevertheless, in 1634, he opted for a sumptuous
pied--terre in the Marais completed four years
earlier rather than the greenery of the countryside.
This archetypal 17th-century Parisian mansion
house wowed fashionable society before housing
a dairy and a shop for the latest goods in
the 19th century. Today, it houses the Centre
des monuments nationaux.
62 rue saint-antoine (4th). m saint-Paul, bastille.
information centre for the centre des monuments
nationaux. tel: 01 44 61 21 50.
mon to Fri: 9am-5.30pm.
www.monuments-nationaux.fr
Place du chtelet
Dont come here looking for tranquillity this is
one of the busiest crossroads in Paris. There are
however many lovely things to see, including
the Chtelet or Palm Fountain, erected in 1806
to commemorate the victories of Napolon I,
and two Italian Renaissance-inspired theatres,
designed by Davioud in 1862. The Thtre du Chtelet,
with over two thousand seats, is devoted primarily
to opera and music. The Thtre de la Ville almost
its twin was for a long time named after the actress
Sarah Bernhardt, who performed there for over
twenty years. Today, its programme is divided between
drama, dance and music.
see p.105.
muse des arts et mtiers
Pass
The metro station sets the tone. Since the bicentenary
of the museum, in 1994, the Arts et Mtiers metro
station has taken on the appearance of Jules Vernes
submarine the Nautilus, complete with copper walls
and portholes. In this faithfully-renovated abbey,
the history of technology from the 16th century
onwards is split into seven domains: communication,
construction, energy, scientific instruments,
materials, mechanical engineering, and transport.
Visitors will learn all about great inventions and stand
in wonder before the automatons and velocipedes,
Lavoisiers late-18th-century laboratory or Clment
Aders airplane, just a century older.




60 rue raumur (3rd). m arts-et-mtiers.
tel: 01 53 01 82 00. Daily: 10am-6pm, except
mon, 1 may and 25 Dec. thurs: 10am-9.30pm.
6.50 rr : 4.50. Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU, 1st sun
of the month and thurs: (6pm to 9.30pm): free.
www.arts-et-metiers.net

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sHoPPinG sTreeTs
anD laTesT TrenDs
From the montorgueil neighbourhood to the
busy winding narrow streets of the marais, you
will find unconventional fashion, up-and-
coming galleries, and small designers rubbing
shoulders with big names and richly-coloured
boutiques decked out with curious, original,
ethnic and poetic objects. in rue montorgueil,
market gardeners and delicatessens share this
delightful street with gourmet bistros. also
in the area, discover the stream of designers
and fashionable labels that have moved into
the workshops of the former clothing factories
on rue montmartre and rue tienne-marcel. a
few minutes walk away, the Forum des Halles
shopping mall has more affordable stores.
in the marais, young designers and artists have
opened boutiques and workshops in rues
des blancs-manteaux, des Francs-bourgeois,
vieille-du-temple, charlot not forgetting,
of course, rue charlemagne and rue saint-Paul.
this avant-gardist paradise is also bursting with
trendy canteens!
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glise saint-eustache
Built over a century, this church features Gothic
and Renaissance influences combined with an
18th-century classical facade, along with traces of
a questionable restoration after 1840. Nevertheless,
Saint-Eustache is truly beautiful and houses
treasures like a Rubens painting and a statue of
Pigalle. And it has an impressive celebrity line-up,
including the baptism of Richelieu, Molire and
Mme de Pompadour, Louis XIVs first communion,
the mariage of Lulli, the funeral of La Fontaine and
Mirabeau as well as Colbert, Marivaux and Rameau,
who found their final resting places here.
Place du Jour (1st). m chtelet-les-Halles.
tel: 01 42 36 31 05. mon to Fri: 9.30am-7pm.
sat and sun: 10am-7pm.
muse dart et dhistoire
du Judasme
Pass
The culture and traditions of the Jewish community
come to life in this rich collection of art objects, such
as paintings by Chagall, Modigliani and Soutine that
are stunning, popular, religious, everyday, humble,
precious, ancestral and near contemporary.




Htel de saint-aignan. 71 rue du temple (3rd).
m rambuteau. tel: 01 53 01 86 53.
Daily: 11am-6pm, except sat. sun: 10am-6pm.
closed 1 Jan, 1 may for rosh ha-shanah and
Yom Kippour celebrations. 6.80 rr: 4.50.
Under 25s: free. www.mahj.org

mmorial de la shoah
Opened on the site of the tomb of the Unknown
Jewish Martyr, the Memorial is a place of
remembrance and documentation about the Shoah
and also a museum of vigilance, designed for
teaching, learning and experiencing. A bastion against
oblivion, the Wall of Names, perpetuates the memory
of the 76,000 Jewish victims deported from France
with the cooperation of the Vichy government.
17 rue geoffroy-lasnier (4th). m saint-Paul.
tel: 01 42 77 44 72.
Daily, except sat:10am-6pm.
thurs: late opening until 10pm. Public hols
and certain Jewish holidays: closed. Free.
www.memorialdelashoah.org
Tour Jean-sans-Peur
Lets step back in time for a moment. During an
interlude in the One Hundred Years War, Jean,
Duke of Burgundy, took advantage of the situation
to order the assassination of his cousin Louis
dOrlans and seize power. He ruled from his Parisian
mansion, in which, in 1409, he had the tower built
the only remaining vestige of the building today.
A magnificent spiral staircase with a vault sculpted
in oak, hop, and hawthorn leads to the meeting
rooms. Today, a permanent exhibition in the six rooms
of the tower portrays the history of early-15th century
society and architecture; and temporary exhibitions
show daily life in the Middle Ages.
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20 rue tienne-marcel (2nd). m tienne-marcel.
tel: 01 40 26 20 28. apr to nov: Wed to sun.
nov to mar: Wed, sat, sun: 1.30-6pm. 5 rr: 3.
www.tourjeansanspeur.com
centre historique des archives
nationales muse de lhistoire
de france
As their name suggests, the National Archives
preserve the records of France, from the Merovingians
to 1958, and house the Muse de lHistoire de France.
Located in the Palais de Soubise since 1808,
with its extravagant rocaille-style decoration behind
a fine classical facade, the National Archives have
continued to grow, and now extend into the superb
Htel de Rohan.
Htel de soubise. 60 rue des Francs-bourgeois (3rd).
m Htel-de-ville. tel: 01 40 27 60 96.
mon to Fri, except tues and public hols:
10am-12.30pm and 2pm-5.30pm.
sat and sun: 2-5.30pm. 4/6 rr: 2/4.
Under 26s and 1st sun of the month: free.
www.archivesnationales.culture.gouv.fr
Tour saint-Jacques
What a history! This curious Gothic belfry is the only
remaining vestige of the church of Saint-Jacques-de-
la-Boucherie, a meeting point for pilgrims journeying
to Santiago de Compostela in Spain in the Middle
Ages. In the 17th century, Pascal experimented here
with gravity. The tower escaped demolition in 1797
and was converted into a meteorological station in
1891, where air quality is measured. The little garden
in which it stands is much appreciated by Parisians
and visitors.
square de la tour saint-Jacques (1st).
m Htel-de-ville.
muse de la Poupe
First, came dolls dressed like perfect little Parisian
ladies in the elegant outfi ts of a marchioness.
In 1878 after the Exposition Universelle, came the
porcelain doll. In the twentieth century, baby dolls
in celluloid were all the fashion until a certain
blonde-haired doll with the svelte figure of a model
appeared on the scene. Happy day dreaming in the
world of little girls!
impasse berthaud (3rd). m rambuteau.
tel: 01 42 72 73 11. Daily: 10am-6pm, except mon
and public hols. 8 rr: 4/6. Under 3s: free.
www.museedelapoupeeparis.com
muse de la curiosit et de la magie
This labyrinth of vaulted cellars was said to have
been as a place of debauchery for the Marquis de
Sade. Today, it is a perfectly commendable place for
those with a sense of curiosity and lovers of tricks,
and recounts the history of magic, illusionists and
conjurers from the 18th century onwards. Indian mail,
automatons, unusual boxes of surprises and secrets,
magic wands, distorting mirrors: everything is here!
11 rue saint-Paul (4th). m saint-Paul.
tel: 01 42 72 13 26. Wed, sat, sun: 2-7pm.
9 rr: 7. www.museedelamagie.com

forum des Halles and its garden
From the 12th century until 1969, the belly of Paris
and its colourful population, so well depicted
in the novels of mile Zola, supplied the capital
with food. Transferred to Rungis, the covered market
was replaced by galleries including a shopping
centre, a swimming pool, a tropical hothouse,
numerous cinema auditoriums On the garden side,
there are lawns, fountains, and childrens play areas
to enjoy, with a new renovation of the whole area
planned for 2016 and code named project Canopy,
by the architects Patrick Berger and Jacques Anziutti.
1-7 rue Pierre-Lescot (1st).
m chtelet-les-Halles.
muse cognacq-Jay
The couple Cognacq-Jay, founders of the Samaritaine
department stores, devoted part of their great
wealth to buying works and objects of art (paintings,
sculptures, furniture, etc.) with a preference for those
of the French 18th century.
8 rue elzvir (3rd). m saint-Paul.
tel: 01 40 27 07 21.
Daily: 10am-6pm, except mon, public hols,
easter sun and Whit sun.
Permanent collections: free.
www.cognacq-jay.paris.fr
34
Parisian
NIGHTS
this capital never sleeps.
From happy hour the
bell rings in some bars
between 6pm and 8pm for
a reduced-price aperitif ,
to the rest of the night for
those who like to dance
until dawn, one-off night
revellers or regular night
birds will find everything
they could wish for on the
Paris night scene.
night transport
taxis are available at any of the
134 taxi ranks (indicated by a
sign marked with a T on a blue
background). They can also be
ordered by telephone or haled in
the street if the light shows green.
the Parisian metro operates
from 5.30am or 6am in the
morning, according to line. In the
week, the last metro runs between
12.40am and 1.15am, according
to line, and between 1.40am and
2.15 am on Friday, Saturday and
the night before public holidays.
This is also the case for the RER
and the tramway. On certain
occasions (31 December, Fte de
la musique, 14 July Bastille Day)
it is even free and operates all
night! Information at: www.ratp.fr
the noctilien is a night bus
service with more than 45 lines
operating from 12.30am to
5.30am, throughout le-de-France.
In Paris, the network is linked to
Chtelet, gares de lEst, de Lyon,
Montparnasse, Saint-Lazare) and
services the entire city.
Information at: www.noctilien.fr
Discos
Fans of house and techno, as well
as tango, mambo and disco will
find clubs for dancing from 11pm
to dawn, in atmospheres that cover
all the ranges: select, off-beat,
musette, electric, tropical, etc.
Many nightclubs organise theme
nights, or afternoon dances that
are sometimes free for ladies.
A few addresses:
arc Paris (L)
12 rue de Presbourg (16th).
M Charles-de-Gaulle toile.
Tel: 01 45 00 78 70.
www.larc-paris.com
bains Douches (Les)
7 rue du Bourg-lAbb (3rd).
M tienne-Marcel.
Tel: 01 53 01 40 60.
baron (Le)
6 av. Marceau (8th).
M Alma Marceau.
Tel: 01 47 20 04 01.
bus Palladium
6 rue Fontaine (9th).
M Blanche.
Tel: 01 53 21 07 33.
Duplex
2 bis av. Foch (16th).
M Charles-de-Gaulle toile.
Tel: 01 45 00 45 00.
el globo
8 bd de Strasbourg (10th).
M Strasbourg-Saint-Denis.
Tel: 01 42 41 55 70.
machine du moulin rouge (La)
90 bd de Clichy (18th).
M Blanche.
Tel: 01 53 41 88 89.
www.lamachinedumoulinrouge.com
Queen (Le)
102 av. des Champs-lyses (8th).
M George-V.
Tel: 01 53 890 890.
regines
49-51 rue de Ponthieu (8th).
M Franklin D.-Roosevelt.
Tel: 01 43 59 21 13.
viP room theater
188 bis rue de Rivoli (1st).
M Palais-Royal
Muse-du-Louvre.
Tel: 01 58 36 46 00.
Bars
There are lounge atmospheres
and velvet settees, the lively
Irish pubs, bars of top hotels,
live music performances and more.
Except in the case of special
dispensation, bars close at 2am
in the morning. Information
at parisinfo.com.
Gay discos and bars
Paris is an open and tolerant
city, where everyone can be
themselves. There is a vast
number of gay or gay-friendly
addresses, often situated around
Chtelet, the Htel de Ville, and
especially in the Marais district.
Information at parisinfo.com.
35
cinema
Paris loves cinema and film shoots
regularly take place in the streets
and apartments of the capital
(940 in 2011). The capital has
almost 110 cinemas. In addition
to mainstream films, many
cinemas screen art-house films,
documentaries and films for
children. And for cinema fans,
the festival Paris cinema (from
30 June to 10 July 2012) is the
not-to-be missed summer event.
At the price of 5 for every film,
it is possible to enjoy previews,
and short and full-length films.
Information on
www.pariscinema.org
Forum des images
Porte Saint-Eustache.
Forum des Halles (1st).
M Chtelet-les-Halles.
www.forumdesimages.fr
gode
26 av. Corentin-Cariou (19th).
M Porte-de-la-Villette.
Tel: 01 40 05 79 99.
www.lageode.fr
Les toiles du rex
grand rex
1 bd Poissonnire (2nd).
M Bonne-Nouvelle.
Tel: 0 892 68 05 96 (0.34/min).
www.legrandrex.com
See p.40.
Larchipel
17 bd de Strasbourg (10th).
M Strasbourg-Saint-Denis.
Tel: 0 826 02 99 24 (0.34/min).
max Linder Panorama
24 bd Poissonnire (9th).
M Grands-Boulevards.
Tel: 0 892 68 00 31 (0.34/min).
www.maxlinder.com
mK2 bibliothque
128-162 av. de France (13th).
M Bibliothque-Franois-
Mitterrand.
Tel: 0 892 69 84 84 (0.34/min).
www.mk2.com
Paris story ! +
11 bis rue Scribe (9th).
M Opra.
Tel: 01 42 66 62 06.
www.paris-story.com
See p.42.
ask for the
programme!
The weekly magazines Pariscope
(0.40) and LOfficiel des spectacles
(0.35), on sale at kiosks and in
newsagents, give the programmes
for all Parisian cinemas. The
bimonthly Paris-Mmes (free
supplement with the Libration
newspaper) lists entertainment
for children.
ParisniGHTlife.fr
In Paris the night belongs to those who go to bed late!
Parisnightlife.fr, devised by the Paris City Council in collaboration
with the federation of cabarets and night clubs, is a unique bilingual
(French-English) information resource about the Paris nightlife scene.
It combines a map-guide available at art, music and entertainment
venues, the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau information centres,
train stations, youth hostels, etc. and an innovative website
www.parisnightlife.fr offering multiple search criteria (dates, hours,
arrondissement, type of music and public ) and a map of places
and events for nightlife in the capital. Everything you need to know
about Parisian nightlife at your fingertips!
P
a
r
i
s
i
a
n

n
i
g
h
t
s
Paris, ciTy of liGHT
For the end of year festivities, Paris illuminates
Paris, the City commissions artists to create
illuminations for more than 120 streets. The result
is a captivating circuit: rivers of garlands and other
original creations decorate the night in a magical
way. The Eiffel Tower sparkles at dusk throughout
the year. In total, 296 sites (hotels, churches,
statues ) and 33 Parisian bridges are illuminated
at nightfall.
E
V
E
N
T
open all night
In need of medicine? Looking
to buy a bouquet of flowers?
Feeling peckish, or even,
ravenous? Everything is possible
at night in the capital. Even for
the most unexpected of problems:
a computer breakdown, an
Internet cafe where you can send
an email to the other side of
the world, urgent documents
to be photocopied, a yearning
for a nocturnal makeover
Information at parisinfo.com.
G
l
a
m
o
r
o
u
s
P
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I
S
witness Paris in all its splendour of gold,
marble and crystal. Admire the dome of the
Opera House, the rue Royale and rue de la Paix,
English tailors, tearooms, prestigious hotels,
bellboys, the diamonds of Place Vendme,
and the gardens of the Palais-Royal.
Its not just the nearby Comdie-Franaise
theatre that puts on a show the stores in
this district are entertainment enough! Admire
boxes (of the musical and chocolate variety),
exhibition rooms hung with silks or artful
displays of goat skins, antique engravings,
and much more. Rumour has it though that
these elegant arcades were home to risqu
goings-on, where scooters now fly by.
And if the truth be told, many a man has been
ruined by dancing girls from the Opera House.
And, of course, there are the grands
boulevards, these broad avenues with buzzing
music halls, cafe-theatres, and numerous
shows with a cheeky edge. Like the big
department stores, which illuminate the
boulevard Haussmann, this is the centre
of chic with a sprinkling of stardust.
Everything seems much more refined under
the stained-glass art nouveau cupolas!
Thats what the Belle poque was all about,
and its alive and well in this part of Paris.
Palais-Royal (1st)
Madeleine (8th)
Opra (9th)
Grands Boulevards (9th)
DonT miss
37
Palais Garnier
opra national de Paris
The Opera House was
inaugurated under the Third
Republic, following fifteen
years of setbacks, including
the nightmarish discovery by
the architect Charles Garnier,
of an underground expanse of
water. This rather deep lake, the
stage for executions during the
Commune, was the inspiration for
writer Gaston Lerouxs Phantom
of the Opera. But lets start with
the main auditorium, with its
ceiling painted by Chagall, its
eight-ton crystal chandelier, and
purple velvet seats set around an
Italian-style stage, where operas
and ballets are performed.
The vestibules and main staircase
going up to the auditorium are
made of marble and filled with
sculptures of harps and lyres
leading the dance. Outside,
Baroque and neo-Renaissance
styles intertwine above a flight
of steps that are a popular place
for people to meet up.
Place de lopra (9th).
m opra.
tel: 892 89 90 90 (0.34/min).
Daily: 10am-5pm, except for
matinees and exceptional events.
9 rr: 6.
Under 10s, Passopera Jeunes,
carte culture, unemployed: free.
www.operadeparis.fr
Place de la madeleine
The square surrounding the
church also bears its name.
Thoughts turn quickly to the
little sponge cakes known as
madeleines, which Marcel Proust
made famous many years
after having lived at no.9. The
square seems to have been given
over to gourmet pleasures since
1854 when a certain Ferdinand
Hdiard opened a delicatessen
store here, joined in 1886 by that
of Auguste Fauchon and followed
by chocolate, truffle and caviar
houses
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Passages and galeries
Passage Bourg-lAbb
Passage Brady
Passage du Caire
Pas. Choiseul/Ste-Anne
Galeries Colbert/Vivienne
Passage du Grand-Cerf
Passage Jouffroy
Galerie de la Madeleine
Passage des Panoramas
Passage des Princes
Passage Verdeau
Galerie Vro-Dodat
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Temple
Strasbourg-
St-Denis
Chteau
dEau
Raumur-
Sbastopol
Arts et Mtiers
Rambuteau
Les Halles
tienne
Marcel
Sentier
Louvre-
Rivoli
Chtelet
Palais Royal
Muse du Louvre
Pyramides
Tuileries
Concorde
Muse
dOrsay
Quatre-Septembre
Opra
Madeleine
Auber Chausse
dAntin
Bourse
Richelieu-
Drouot
Grands
Boulevards
Bonne
Nouvelle
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JARDIN DES
TUILERIES
JARDIN DU
CARROUSEL
GRANDS MAGASINS
OLYMPIA
PLACE DE
LA CONCORDE
PLACE DE
LOPRA
250 m
JARDINS
DU PALAIS
ROYAL
OBLISQUE
ST-GERMAIN-
LAUXERROIS
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PORTE
ST-DENIS
PORTE
ST-MARTIN
LOUVRE DES ANTIQUAIRES
MUSE
DES ARTS
DCORATIFS
BIBLIOTHQUE NATIONALE
DE FRANCE
i
Opra (lines 3, 7, 8) Madeleine (lines 8, 12, 14) Palais-Royal (lines 1, 7)
Grands-Boulevards (lines 8, 9) Pyramides (lines 7, 14) Tuileries (line 1)
?
did yOu knOw?
Fish, fed by the scene shifters,
glide through the underground
waters of the Opera House and
bees, from two hives on the
roof, collect their nectar in
the nearby Tuileries gardens.
coVereD arcaDes
at the beginning of the 19th
century, Haussmann redesigned
Paris. built for the crowds
thronging the caf terraces and
theatres along the boulevards,
covered shopping arcades
were a huge success with their
boutiques of chinese ornaments,
curiosities and gifts, along with
tea, chocolate and coffee houses.
they were the meeting places for
the elegantly dressed, a haven
from wet weather. then came
the department stores. With
the magic of electricity and
pavements the passageways
became less fashionable,
and some were demolished.
indulge yourself! these human
aquariums, as the French writer
aragon described them, still offer
an original shopping experience
complete with wonderful wood
panelling: discover the exciting
creations of Passage vivienne
or Passage du grand-cerf;
marble, art and knowledge await
you in the galeries vro-Dodat
and colbert, while the prints,
sepia photos and antique toys in
passages verdeau and Jouffroy
contrast with the kitsch bazaar in
the passage des Panoramas
38
glise de la madeleine
The construction of the Madeleine
church was fraught with drama.
Scarcely had work begun in 1764,
than it was stopped. Begun again
in 1777, only to be interrupted
by the French Revolution, before
being restarted under Napolon,
who altered the plans to make the
building a pantheon to the glory
of his armies. The building was
designated a place of worship
again and the church was
completed in 1842. With no bell
tower or cross on the outside,
its more like a Greek temple,
with two monumental doors and
a forest of Corinthian columns.
From the top of the steps is a view
worthy of Olympia: firstly the rue
Royale, with its luxury goods and
prestigious addresses, then the
Obelisk at Concorde and beyond,
looking in the same direction,
yet another temple, the Palais
Bourbon.
Place de la madeleine (8th).
m madeleine.
tel: 01 44 51 69 00.
Daily: 9.30am-7pm.
Place Vendme
Louis XIV had desired a grandiose
setting to embody absolute
power at the heart of Paris. And
Napolon was quick to replace the
kings statue, dismantled in 1792,
with a bronze column made from
1,200 enemy canons. However,
since the Second Empire, the
square, an octagonal gem of
classic urban design, has changed
its affinities. Politics have given
way to luxury, and the great
names in jewellery have made
Place Vendme and the adjoining
rue de la Paix a continuous stream
of diamonds, rubies and emeralds.
Place des Victoires
Before being given over to the
cult of fashion and local fashion
designers, this almost perfect
circle was an important place
for royal adoration. In order to
curry favour with the king, the
Marquis de la Feuillade designed
the square to house a triumphant
statue of the monarch. Louis was
delighted but the courtier died
in financial ruin.
?
did yOu knOw?
Behind Place des Victoires,
the military successes of
Louis XIII were celebrated in
the basilica of Notre-Dame-
des-Victoires on the pretty
Place des Petits-Pres.
40
DiscoVer
40
Palais-royal
Richelieu started the saga by building his residence
here; Louis XIV inherited it and gave it to his brother.
Philippe dOrlans and his son extended it. In 1780,
the indebted Philippe galit opened up the area
around the gardens to commerce: sixty buildings
supported by arcades were built to house the stores.
Prostitution, gambling and scandal took hold of the
palace. And as the police were not authorised to
operate there, it became a bastion for revolutionary
unrest until 1793. The peaceful Palais-Royal
now houses the Ministry of Culture and several
institutions, some very chic boutiques, gourmet
restaurants and a garden planted with four rows of
lime trees. Although the striped Buren columns
almost reignited the revolution here in 1986.
Place du Palais-royal (1st). m Palais-royal
muse-du-Louvre. tel : 01 47 03 92 16.
www.monuments-nationaux.fr
choco-story
le muse gourmand du chocolat
The museum explores the 4,000 years of the history,
making and secrets of this delicious product. Smooth
creamy chocolate from Costa Rica, fruity from Peru
or mild flavours from Vanuatu tasting essential.
28 bd bonne-nouvelle (10th). m bonne-nouvelle.
tel: 01 42 29 68 60. Daily: 10am-6pm.
9 tr: 6/8. www.museeduchocolat.fr
comdie-franaise
Here are two words that inspire respect:
Comdie-Franaise. And youre right here! This
theatre is home to the prestigious French theatre
group, the Comdiens-Franais. And its here,
on the corner of Palais-Royal, that the theatres
permanent troupe, originating from the union of
two troupes Molires and that of the Htel de
Bourgogne in 1680, has performed the French
repertory since the end of the 18th century.
Candelabras and busts of great writers escort you
to the padded doors of the red and gold auditorium.
Shhh!
1 place colette (1st). m Palais-royal
muse-du-Louvre. res: 0 825 10 16 80.
www.comedie-francaise.fr
les toiles du rex Grand rex
Founded in 1932 on the Grands Boulevards,
the Grand Rex, a listed building, is one of the largest
cinemas in Europe with its 2,800 seats under
a star-studded ceiling, its Mediterranean baroque
decor and art deco facade. The 50-minutes
audioguided and interactive show Les toiles
du Rex reveals the behind-the scenes of cinema,
from the shooting to the screening of a film:
archive images, special effects room, sound effects
room and projection room, etc.
1 bd Poissonnire (2nd). m bonne-nouvelle.
visits in French, english, italian, german, spanish
and russian. tel: 01 45 08 93 58.
Wed to sun and public hols: 10am-7pm.
Daily during sch hols. 10. Under 12s: 8.
www.legrandrex.com

Grvin +
Each new arrival (four personalities per year) is
elected by a panel of personalities. Then follows a
sitting, a wax and resin moulding, make-up, costume
and accessories. Since 1882, the waxworks
museum has been producing and displaying wax
figures of great historical figures and stars of sport,
the arts, science and politics. 250 personalities!
Michael Jackson, Jimi Hendrix, Einstein
and Louis XIV all under the same roof!
10 bd montmartre (9th). m grands-boulevards.
tel: 01 47 70 85 05. mon to Fri: 10am-6.30pm.
sat, sun, and public hols: 10am-7pm.
sch hols: 9.30am-7pm (Feb, spring and summer
hols), 9am-7pm (autumn mid-term and christmas).
Last admission 1hr before closing time.
annual closure: 1 to 5 oct 2012.
21.50. 6-14 yrs: 14. rr: 18.50/11.
www.grevin.com

42
Pinacothque de Paris
The Pinacothque de Paris makes art accessible to
everyone thanks to a varied and eclectic programme
of exhibitions. The first cross-disciplinary Parisian
museum, the Pinacothque houses a permanent
collection based on a new vision of the history of
art. Rejecting traditional classifications by artist or
movement, it offers visitors an imaginary museum,
a veritable cabinet of curiosities that is enriched
and brought to life by temporary exhibitions.
28 place de la madeleine/8 rue vignon (8th).
m madeleine. tel: 01 42 68 02 01.
Daily: 10.30am-6.30pm. Wed and Fri: open until 9pm.
some public hols: 2pm-6.30pm. 10 rr: 8.
Under 12s: free. www.pinacotheque.com
muse maxims
Maxims was chic and decadent in 1900. During
the Belle poque, courtesans lounged in the rooms
above the restaurant, which have been recreated for
this museum with objects from Pierre Cardins art
nouveau collection. Discover suggestive paintings,
Tiffany lamps, a table set for an intimate supper
and a bed carved by Majorelle, evoking the rustle
of petticoats of the famous beauty Otro.
3 rue royale (8th). m concorde.
tel: 01 42 65 30 47. guided visits Wed to sun: 2pm,
3.15pm and 4.30pm. Public hols: closed.
www.maxims-musee-artnouveau.com
The fragonard perfume museums
In a wonderful Napolon III town house, the Muse
du parfum, offers a fascinating journey tracing 3,000
years of the history and technique of perfume making.
The Thtre Muse des Capucines houses the finest
objects of an important private collection of perfume.
Finally, at the end of a visit, it is impossible to resist
products offered at factory prices.
muse du parfum. 9 rue scribe (9th). m opra.
tel: 01 47 42 04 56. mon to sat: 9am-6pm.
sun and public hols: 9am-5pm. Free guided tour.
www.fragonard.com
thtre muse des capucines.
39 bd des capucines (2nd). m opra.
tel: 01 42 60 37 14.
mon to sat: 9am-6pm. Free guided tour.
Muse en Herbe
For children! Exhibitions are fun and based on games
and developing sensibility, curiosity, and creativity
in children.
21 rue Hrold (1st). m Les Halles.
tel: 01 40 67 97 66. mon to sun: 10am-7pm.
thurs: open until 9pm. From 4 yrs: 10 rr: 9
adults: 6 rr: 5. www.musee-en-herbe.com
Paris story ! +
Take a multimedia museum where Victor Hugo brings
the history of Paris to life; add an interactive model
Paris-Miniature and Paris exprience with thematic
videos screened on a revolutionary 3D screen: 2,000
years in the history of the capital for you to enjoy.
11 bis rue scribe (9th). m opra.
tel: 01 42 66 62 06. Daily, every hour (translation
in 14 languages): 10am-6pm. 10. 6-18s: 6.
www.paris-story.com
Bibliothque nationale de France
site richelieu
The library has retained the departments of Manuscripts,
Maps and Plans, Music, Prints and Photography,
Theatrical Arts, and Money, Medals and Antiques.
Reassuringly, this venerable institution, founded
in the distant era of Charles V, and established
on the Richelieu site since 1721, has also preserved
the throne of Dagobert, the fan of Diane de Poitiers, etc.
5 rue vivienne (2nd). m bourse.
tel: 01 53 79 49 49.
Temporary exhibitions (daily except Mon)
in the mansart gallery (photography).
Muse des Mdailles et Antiques: daily: 1-5.45pm,
sat: 1-4.45pm, sun: noon-6pm. Free.
closure of a part of the departments until 2014:
contact for information. www.bnf.fr
Bourse de Paris palais Brongniart
In 1987, after over 150 years of the clamour and
shouting of stockbrokers, silence fi nally reigned
under the cupola of the Palais Brongniart.
The stock exchange was computerised and today
the neoclassical temple encircled with columns
opens its marble hall and nave, decorated with
wood panelling and frescoes, to curious visitors.
Around the famous trading floor, glass cubicles
and a blackboard displaying stocks and shares
recreate the atmosphere of the trading floor.
rue vivienne (2nd). m bourse. tel: 01 83 92 20 20.
visits by appointment only.
44
fasHion
AND SHOPPING
From interior decoration
to accessories for pets,
from hats to gardening kits,
you will find everything
you could wish. there are
constantly new places and
ways to buy fair trade,
artisanal, on sunday,
in the evening, with a
personal coach, etc.
the latest trends are
boutique-art galleries,
bookshop-tearooms,
workshop-shops and
flagship stores of brands
which are flourishing
from the champs-lyses
to rue de rivoli.
Paris shopping Book
To discover Paris on a shopping
spree, ask for the free guide
Paris Shopping Book
(French-English) published
by the Paris Convention and
Visitors Bureau and visit
www.shoppingbyparis.com.
This guide details six hand-sewn
itineraries, each reflecting
the great trends of Parisian
fashion. These ready-to-discover
itineraries cover a selection
of areas and shops, cultural
sites and gastronomic stops.
A representative, yet modest
selection of the variety that
Paris has to offer!
Department stores
Beneath their art nouveau glass
roofs, the boulevard Haussmann
and Left Bank department stores
have a legendary reputation.
Together with the department
stores on rue de Rivoli, they are
essential places for up-market
shopping.
N.B.: at Christmas time their
windows are decorated with
magical mises en scne. A great
success with the kids!
bHv (bazar de lHtel-de-ville)
52-64 rue de Rivoli (4th).
M Htel-de-Ville.
Tel: 01 42 74 90 00.
Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri:
9.30am-7.30pm.
Wed: 9.30am-9pm.
Sat: 9.30am-8pm.
www.bhv.fr
galeries Lafayette
40 bd Haussmann (9th).
M Chausse-dAntin La Fayette.
Tel: 01 42 82 34 56.
Mon, Tues, Wed, Fri, Sat:
9.30am-8pm.
Thurs: 9.30am-9pm.
www.galerieslafayette.com
Le bon march rive gauche
24 rue de Svres (7th).
M Svres-Babylone.
Tel: 01 44 39 80 00.
Mon, Tues, Wed, Sat: 10am-8pm.
Thurs, Fri: 10am-9pm.
www.lebonmarche.com
Printemps Haussmann
64 bd Haussmann (9th).
M Havre-Caumartin.
Tel: 01 42 82 50 00.
Mon to Sat: 9.35am-8pm.
Late opening Thurs: 9.35am-10pm.
www.printemps.com
shopping galleries
and boutiques
Fashion, beauty, DIY, well-being,
sport, culture, high-tech toys
not forgetting those gourmet
interludes, and everything under
one roof in the shopping galleries!
Visitors are also sure to find
something to their liking in any
one of the 17,000 Parisian shops
bercy village
Cour Saint-milion (12th).
See p.87.
boutiques du Palais
des congrs
Porte Maillot (17th).
M Porte-Maillot.
Daily: 10am-7.30pm.
www.lesboutiquesdupalais.com
carrousel du Louvre
99 rue de Rivoli (1st).
M Palais-Royal
Muse-du-Louvre.
Tel: 01 43 16 47 10.
Daily: 10am-8pm.
Restaurants: daily 8.30am-8pm.
www.carrouseldulouvre.com
Forum des Halles
1-7 rue Pierre-Lescot (1st).
M Chtelet-les-Halles.
Mon to Sat: 10am-8pm.
Tel: 01 44 76 96 56.
www.forumdeshalles.com
See p.33.
shopping galleries
champs-lyses
Arcades du Lido, Berri, Claridge,
Rond-Point des Champs-lyses (8th).
M Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.
italie 2
30, av. dItalie (13th).
M Place-dItalie.
Mon to Sat: 10am-8pm.
Thurs: open until 9pm.
www.italie2.com
Loccitane
Tel: 01 55 35 17 00.
www.loccitane.com
Skincare, body care, natural
and authentic fragrances.
22 boutiques in Paris.
Les Quatre temps
15, parvis de la Dfense,
92092 La Dfense.
M Grande-Arche-de-la-Dfense.
Mon to Sat: 10am-8pm.
Sun: 11am-7pm.
www.les4temps.com
maine-montparnasse
Tour Maine-Montparnasse (14th).
M Montparnasse Bienvene.
Mon to Sat: 10am-7pm.
march saint-germain
Rue Clment (6th).
M Mabillon.
Mon to Sat: 10am-7.30pm
(Aug: 11am-7pm).
www.marche-saint-germain.com
Passage du Havre
12-14 rue du Havre (9th).
M Saint-Lazare.
Mon to Sat: 10am-7.30pm.
Thurs and Fri: open until 8pm.
www.passageduhavre.com
sphora
79 bd Saint-Germain (6th).
M Maubert-Mutualit.
Tel: 01 55 42 62 90.
22 place de la Madeleine (8th).
M Madeleine.
Tel: 01 53 30 84 90.
21-23 bd Haussmann (9th).
M Chausse dAntin Lafayette.
Tel: 01 53 24 99 65.
Atrium du Palais level A
2 place de la Porte-Maillot (17th).
M Porte-Maillot.
Tel: 01 58 05 02 00.
75 rue de Rivoli (1st).
M Chtelet.
Tel: 01 40 13 16 50.
Les 4 Temps Shopping
Centre level 1.
La Dfense (92).
Tel: 01 47 73 55 02.
72 av. des Champs-lyses (8th).
M Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.
Tel: 01 53 93 22 50.
www.sephora.fr
on sunday as well!
For relaxing shopping, Paris
has several areas (often
pedestrianized) that are open on
Sunday: the Marais, Montmartre,
around the canal Saint-Martin
or even at the Saint-Ouen flea
market If youre looking for
something at one of the big chain
stores or themed boutiques, then
the Champs-lyses, the Carrousel
du Louvre, Bercy Village or La Valle
Village are the places to go.
N.B.: a certain number of shops
are open on the five Sundays
leading up to the end of year
festive season.
stock shops
and brand outlets
Ready-to-wear boutiques offer
articles at discount prices or
from previous collections with
substantial reductions on the
original price. In Paris, there are
a large number in rue dAlsia
(14th). Good discounts are also to
be found in the big brand factory
shops around Paris.
valle village (La)
3 cours de la Garonne.
77700 Serris.
RER A Val-dEurope.
Tel: 01 60 42 35 00.
Mon to Sun: 10am-7pm.
www.lavalleevillage.com
Take advantage
of duty-free
You can benefit from duty free
shopping if you are not a European
citizen, are over 15 years-old,
and have made your purchases
(175.01 minimum) within the last
three months. To be reimbursed
for the VAT (value added tax), ask
for Tax-free Shopping France
receipts in the tax-free tourist
stores. Have them stamped
at customs and return the pink
stamped copies within the three
months in the pre-stamped
envelope that you received when
you paid for your purchase(s).
euro Free shopping
218 bd Saint-Germain (7th).
M Rue-du-Bac. Tel: 06 22 08 15 48.
www.eurotaxfree.eu
global blue France
18 rue de Calais (9th). M Blanche.
Tel: 01 41 61 51 51.
www.global-blue.com
f
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WinTer anD summer sales
These take place over a maximum of five
weeks in January with Soldes by Paris,
and in July, when shops sell off the previous
seasons stock with discounts of between
20 and 60% on the original price. Some stores
open at midnight, others on Sundays.
And on Saturday, everyone is out hunting
for a bargain!
Information: www.shoppingbyparis.com
E
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45
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Following in the footsteps of a horde of street
entertainers, climb the picturesque Butte
(little hill), crowned by the Sacr-Cur
the second most-visited site in Paris.
A leisurely stroll will enable you to enjoy the
pleasures of this wonderful Parisian village.
And going from one village to another you can
venture as far as the popular Batignolles area,
a hidden gem, before wandering through the
Saint-Georges theatre district and the little
Place Gustave-Toudouze.
Surrounded by bell towers, the day begins at
the counter of a cafe with a caf crme and
crusty buttered baguette. One can browse idly,
filling ones shopping basket full of delicious
treats in rue Lepic, rue des Martyrs,
rue Caulaincourt and also with fabrics
in rue dOrsel and the Saint-Pierre market,
and why not guitars in rue de Douai and rue
Victor-Mass. Lunch is at a bistro offering
simple, hot dishes or crunchy salads.
And given that the village is a bit of a fashion
victim, there are designer boutiques and
galleries to check out amid the charcuteries
and dairy shops. In the evening, you can dress
up, stay casual, dance the java, enjoy the nouba
or a fiesta, or just go to the movies.
Montmartre (18th)
Pigalle (9th)
Saint-Georges (9th)
Trinit (9th)
Batignolles (17th)
DonT miss
47


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250 m
LA CIGALE
LYSE
MONTMARTRE
SAINTE-TRINIT
MUSE DE LA
FRANC-MAONNERIE
i
MUSE DE LA FRANC-MAONNERIE
Abbesses (line 12) Pigalle (lines 2, 12) Barbs-Rochechouart (lines 2, 4) Anvers (line 2)
Place-de-Clichy (lines 2, 13) Trinit (line 12) Saint-Georges (line 12) Blanche (line 2)
Butte montmartre
Venice has its gondolas,
Montmartre its steps physically
demanding but Romanesque in
the extreme. Countless novels,
legends and fabulous destinies
are set in the Butte, such as the
Bateau-Lavoir in Place mile-
Goudeau, where Picasso painted
the Demoiselles dAvignon, and
the cafe made famous by Amlie
Poulain in rue Lepic. The grocery
from the film is higher up on rue
des Trois-Frres. And theres
even more climbing to do but
Montmartres well worth it! Walk
up rue Tholoz, for example, for a
film or a drink in the winter garden
of a tiny cinema patronised
by Buuel and Cocteau. Pause at
the top of the street under the last
remaining windmills, before
continuing on up Keep going! At
the top is Sacr-Cur, surrounded
by a labyrinth of extraordinary little
streets, and a vineyard, where the
grape harvest is celebrated each
year. There is also the flattering
bust of Dalida in the square of the
same name, breathtaking views
over the rooftops of Paris, amazing
crowds and hundreds of tranquil
spots. From the square de la
Turlure or the rue de la Chevalier-
de-la-Barre, the Sacr-Cur is just
as wonderful from the side,
the back or the front!
Basilique
du sacr-cur
In 1873, the National Assembly
voted for the construction of a
basilica devoted to the Sacred
Heart on the butte Montmartre.
The site was chosen as much
for its altitude (127 metres) as for
its symbolism; it was sanctified
long before with the martyrdom
of Saint Denis and sullied by the
violent acts of the Commune,
in 1870. Pitfalls, controversies,
underground quarries, and
83 buried pillars caused the
work to extend over forty years.
All these efforts were rewarded!
From below, the Romano-
Byzantine contours take on
the appearance of a whipped
cream palace set on a hill of
gardens and terraces: green
and white outlined against
swathes of azure. The view
from the top of the steps,
and especially from the top
of the dome, is simply stunning.
Parvis du sacr-cur (18th).
m anvers.
tel: 01 53 41 89 00.
basilica: 6am-11pm.
www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com
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Place du Tertre
Welcome to picture-postcard
Montmartre, with its restaurant
terraces and artists easels and
portrait painters, who share
140 allotted spaces 1 sq.m. for
two artists working alternately.
But the historic village square
merits a little tour. The commune
of Montmartre established its
town hall at no.3, in 1790; no.19 is
the headquarters of the Commune
libre du Vieux Montmartre, which
organises fun events and
was founded in 1920. Another
institution is the cafe Chez la mre
Catherine where the word bistro
was said to have originated, in
1814. Hurry cried the occupying
Russian soldiers, eager to down a
drink before rejoining their ranks.
The waitresses thought they were
simply asking for something to
drink Standing serenely at
the centre of all this activity, the
adjoining church of Saint-Pierre
de Montmartre conceals the Roman
vestiges of the Abbaye des Dames.
moulin-rouge

+
Montmartre hill once bristled with
windmills. They closed one after
the other, while the Moulin de la
Galette became a popular dance
hall. In 1889, another opened with
just the exterior decor of
a windmill. Soon the French
Cancan black stockings, garters
and petticoats created an air
of euphoria and stardom for
Pigalle
From Place dAnvers to Place de Clichy, night
revellers, neon lights and illuminated signs ensure
that, almost for as long as Paris has existed, this
area never sleeps. In the Paris of yesteryear, wine,
taxed at the entry to the city, was more expensive.
So, Montmartre was the lively out-of-town place
to go with its mix of lower classes, artists, young
women and free thinkers. Later, the village was
absorbed into the capital but the rowdiness
continued. Piano-bars, night clubs, private clubs,
concert halls, cafe-theatres, music halls, dinner
shows, pubs, cabarets lasted for three seasons
or over one hundred years. In the 1960s, Serge
Gainsbourg sang les petits gars de Liverpool causing
a sensation at the Bus Palladium. Others followed.
When the Paris of Jacques Dutronc awakes at 5am,
Place Blanche at the end of turbulent rue Fontaine
often looks the worse for wear. But after a short rest,
all is well again.
espace Dal +
300 works by the major Catalan artist in a scenography
alternating sound and light. Engravings, sculptures
and surrealist furniture, including the famous Montres
Molles, Alice in Wonderland, the Mae West lip sofa,
The Space Elephant and an array of fantastic creatures,
recreating the phantasmagorias of Salvador Dal.
On certain dates, workshops initiate children into
the playful creativity of the great surrealist.
11 rue Poulbot (18th). m abbesses, anvers.
tel: 01 42 64 40 10.
Daily: 10am-6pm. July and aug: 10am-8pm.
audioguides available for hire. 11 rr: 7/6.
Under 8s: free. www.daliparis.com
cimetire de montmartre
Lovers of Montmartre come to the cemetery
to admire the outdoor art, catch a glimpse of the sun,
watch the squirrels hopping between maple trees
or to make the acquaintance of a string of poets,
generals, thinkers, inventors and the Lady of the
Camellias. Discover Vigny, Nijinsky or Guitry in a
labyrinth of mossy rows and irregular stone steps.
Cross the path of stray tomcats, a bust of Rodin,
the bridge of Caulaincourt and finally, Alexandre
Dumas, Zola, Degas and Dalida. Then, its off again to
look for Poulbot, Truffaut and Feydeau. Up above the
DiscoVer
La Goulue and her fellow dancers.
The first revues were staged and,
in 1907, a certain Mistinguett
began her music-hall career.
After the war, a new generation
of artists arrived, including
Edith Piaf, Montant, Trenet and
Aznavour... Every evening, glitz,
feathers and sequins continue to
weave their magic at the Moulin
Rouge la ferie du Moulin-Rouge.
82 bd de clichy (18th).
m blanche. see p.106.
48
statues and carved chapels, and the tombs
of Stendhal and Berlioz, a brood of young sparrows
chirp high in the chestnut trees. Eleven enchanting
hectares.
muse de montmartre
Numerous personalities including Renoir, Suzanne
Valadon, Raoul Dufy or Poulbot lived here in
Montmartres oldest house. The heyday of
this independent and bohemian area attached
to Paris is displayed here: Le Chat Noir, le Lapin
agile, le Bal du Moulin Rouge the glory days
of Montmartre A visit to the museum includes
a walk in the gardens surrounding the museum,
overlooking the Montmartre vineyard. Its a little
bit of the countryside in the heart of Paris.
12 rue cortot (18th). m anvers, Lamarck-caulaincourt
and funicular. tel: 01 49 25 89 39.
Daily: 10am-6pm. 8 rr: 6, under 10s: free.
www.museedemontmartre.fr
Promotrain +
les petits trains de montmartre
Give the steps a miss with Promotrain. Children will
be delighted, and parents too. For the price of a metro
ticket, but without a commentary, the funicular will
take you from the bottom to the top of Sacr-Cur
and the Montmartrobus makes the ascent from
Place Pigalle to the 18th arrondissement city hall,
in Place Jules-Joffrin.
Les petits trains de montmartre
131 rue de clignancourt (18th).
m simplon. tel: 01 42 62 24 00.
www.promotrain.fr

Jardin sauvage saint-Vincent
For a long time, this sloping parcel of land was
overgrown with alders, foxgloves, brambles, ivy
and wildlife. One day the citys landscape gardeners
decided to make it into a garden again. But impressed
by the wild natural beauty of the site, spades and
secateurs were put to one side. The decision was
taken to preserve this fragile and poetic site as a
place for observing the ecosystem and biodiversity,
the trees, the charm of wild flowers, etc.
muse Gustave-moreau
Pass
At a time of world-stage museums, here is the
exclusive domain of an artist, laid-out by himself,
in his family home. At the end of his life, Gustave
Moreau assembled precious memorabilia in a little
sentimental museum on the first floor. In 1895,
he had two huge glazed workshops built on the upper
floors, linked by a fine spiral staircase of wrought-
iron steps. On the plum-pink walls there are some
5,000 wooden-framed drawings, and on the ceilings
your eyes are drawn to admire Italian-style, symbolist
and fauvist paintings : a fantastical body of work.
14 rue de la rochefoucauld (9th). m trinit.
tel: 01 48 74 38 50. mon, Wed and thurs:
10am-12.45pm and 2pm-5.15pm.
Fri, sat and sun: 10am-5.15pm.
closed: tues, 1 Jan, 1 may and 25 Dec.
5 rr: 3. Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU
and 1st sun of the month: free.
www.musee-moreau.fr
Place de clichy
In 1814, Marshal Moncey and his troops bravely
defended the former Place de la barrire de Clichy
against the invading Russians. Today, this lively
and popular square at the crossroads of four
arrondissements reputed for its brasseries
and cinemas has regained its former calm
after important renovation works that give
more place to pedestrians.
m Place de clichy.
muse de la Vie romantique
A tree-lined path, a rectangular flower garden, a little
mansion far from the buzz of the city: this is where
the painter and sculptor Ary Scheffer lived from 1830
50
to 1858. Delacroix, George Sand, Chopin dropped in as
neighbours; the whole of the intellectual and artistic
world of Paris (Liszt, Rossini, Turgenev, Dickens, etc.)
frequented his workshop-salon. Even today, as you go
from room to room, Chopin will accompany you with
his piano as you discover George Sand, and the
paintings of Ary Scheffer and his contemporaries.
16 rue chaptal (9th). m saint-georges.
tel: 01 55 31 95 67. Daily: 10am-6pm, except mon,
public hols, easter sun and Whit sun.
Free permanent collections.
www.vie-romantique.paris.fr



muse de lrotisme
Eroticism is an art and it needed a showcase.
Pigalle was the obvious home for these statuettes,
amulets, saucy photos, satirical sketches, little
tantric totems, painted, modelled, sculpted and
engraved idols. Two rounded Buddhas form the
entrance to this arousing but never shocking world,
where 2,000 objects displayed over seven exhibition
floors and from all over the world, explore popular,
contemporary and sacred erotic art.
72 bd de clichy (18th). m blanche.
tel: 01 42 58 28 73. Daily: 10-2am. 10.
www.musee-erotisme.com
Parc clichy-Batignolles
martin-luther-King
This park open but still being laid out will be the
biggest green area in the north-west of Paris. It will
need 624 trees, 5,600 shrubs, 200 climbing plants,
51,000 perennial plants and aquatic plants,
47,000 bulbs, 8,400 sq.m. lawned areas, 25,000 sq.m.
of gardens, 2,900 sq.m. of ornamental ponds, and
3,460 sq.m. of play areas for children and adolescents
to embellish it. The parks three themes will be sport,
water and the seasons.
172 rue cardinet (17th). m brochant.
Quartier des Batignolles
Considered a quiet neighbourhood, with its market,
church, garden and brand new Clichy-Batignolles
park. Batignolles was annexed to Paris in 1860. At the
time, this ancient hamlet between the city and fields,
close to Montmartre, offered cheap living for artists.
Impressionism took form here in a cafe frequented by
Manet, Degas, Czanne, Monet and Renoir. This was
not just a centre for artists, and writers Zola, Verlaine,
Max Jacob, luard and Simenon also lived here. And
as you stroll down the rue des Dames and rue des
Batignolles, something tells you that these windows,
tables and welcoming cafe counters are still a refuge
for tamed bohemians and a slower pace of life.
square des Batignolles
Its grotto, waterfall and a miniature lake, where black
swans ruffle their feathers, make this English-style
garden appear much larger than it is. Among
the things to see are a Turkish hazel tree, swings,
a sweets kiosk, a lemon tree, carp, a sequoia,
a skate area, a sculpture in black stone from
Volvic and table-tennis tables.

Windmills of the past
While the Moulin Rouge is only there for decoration,
of the fifteen windmills that used to dot Montmartre,
only two now remain the Moulin de la Galette and
the Moulin Radet. Their grinding stones ground grain,
plaster of Paris and grapes from the Montmartre
vineyard, of which a few slopes remain.
Place des Abbesses
There are lifts for passengers at the deepest
underground station in Paris it is thirty metres
below ground but hale and hearty walkers are
encouraged to climb the fresco-painted steps before
emerging exhausted into the little square to catch
their breath on one of the benches. In a glance,
one takes in the art nouveau metro entrance by
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did yOu knOw?
Around 1820, neoclassical houses were built
in and around rue Chaptal. Grecomania was all
the rage, and the architecture was nicknamed
Nouvelle Athnes (New Athens). Painters,
writers, poets and actors were attracted to
the area and soon the whole neighbourhood
of Saint-Georges the epicentre of artistic life
took on the new name.
51
Hector Guimard, the merry-go-round, the cast-iron
street lights and the Wallace fountain. In the
adjoining Square Jhan-Rictus, kids play at the
foot of a wall in enamelled lava, where I love you
is declared in 311 languages. Opposite, the church
Saint-Jean lvangliste, nicknamed Notre-Dame-
des-Briques (Our-Lady-of-Bricks) since 1904, mixes
Byzantine and art nouveau influences. On both
sides of rue des Abbesses, rue Durantin, and rue de
la Vieuville, and rue Yvonne-le-Tac trendy local
boutiques rub shoulders with cafe terraces, where it
is nice to do nothing more than watch the world go by.
avenue Junot and villa landre
Still on the hillside of the Butte, but beyond
the sculpture of the Passe-Muraille in the square
where its creator Marcel Aym once lived is the
start of avenue Junot with its cubic art deco unfussy
architecture, the beauty of pure forms, and harmony
of volumes, as at no.15, the house built in 1926
for the dada poet Tristan Tzara. Further on, there
is a new change of scene at Villa Landre, where
you can wander around in a fairytale setting
between two rows of red and white brick
Anglo-Norman pavilions with painted shutters,
arbors and chocolate-box London-style gardens.
Halle saint Pierre art Brut
art singulier art contemporain
Populaire
Below the Sacr-Cur, the Saint-Pierre fabric market
is gaily-coloured and its neighbouring covered
multicoloured market offers popular, naive and
unusual art. Built in 1868 by a disciple of Baltard,
this ancient covered market houses a cheerful
cultural centre. Stop by for a snack or a coffee,
amidst the canvasses and works exhibited by the
gallery or to flick through the colourful art books
in the bookshop, under the circle of the mezzanine.
This is also the place to come for shows and concerts
in the auditorium, activity trails for children and,
of course, for the 600 items in the Max Fourny
collection, representing Naive art from the 1970s.
2 rue ronsard (18th). m abbesses.
tel: 01 42 58 72 89. mon to Fri: 10am-6pm,
sat: 10am-7pm, sun: 11am-6pm, except 1 Jan,
1 may, 14 July, 15 aug and 25 Dec.
aug: 12-noon to 6pm, except sat and sun.
temporary exhibitions: 8 rr: 6.50.
www.hallesaintpierre.org

March Barbs
On Saturday mornings under the overhead metro,
the boulevard de la Chapelle is home to a colorful
market, where Africans in boubous, dazed night-owls
and Arabs in burnous rub shoulders with mothers and
their young children looking for a watch, a headscarf
or fruit and vegetables.
Wed: 8am-1pm. sat: 7am-3pm.
muse de la franc-maonnerie
Htel du Grand orient de france
Although it has been established in France for almost
three centuries, Freemasonry continues to raise many
questions. The aim of this museum is to answer these
questions by allowing visitors to discover its origins,
rituals and the contribution of its lodges to the
history of France.
16 rue cadet (9th). m cadet, grands-boulevards.
tel : 01 45 23 43 97. tues to Fri: 10am-12.30pm and
2pm-6pm. sat: 10am-1pm and 2pm-7pm.
closed : sun, mon and public hols. 6 rr: 4.
www.museefm.org
?
did yOu knOw?
At number 21, Place du Tertre, the tourist office
of Old Montmartre will tell you everything
there is to know about the Butte, and offers
a programme of guided visits and events.
21 place du tertre (18th). m abbesses.
tel: 01 42 62 21 21. mon to Fri: 10am-6pm, except
1 may. sat and sun: 10am-1pm and 2pm-6pm.
www.montmartre-guide.com
52
GourmeT
CAPITAL
gastronomy is king in Paris.
restaurants provide varied
and refined menus to tempt
the palate. and there are
numerous delicatessens,
caterers, bakers, wine
merchants, butchers,
confectioners, pastry cooks
and grocers in every area
of the city with delicious
produce to take away.
choosing a restaurant
For grande cuisine, there are the
Michelin-starred top gastronomic
restaurants or, more affordable,
restaurants opened by chefs of
French cuisine. Another trend is
fortable dhtes and canteen
restaurants. Here one eats
shoulder to shoulder with others,
passing the salt and exchanging
conversation over lunch, a wok or
enormous open sandwiches. More
typical, the brasseries some
of which are very chic , bistros,
and wine bars serve up regional,
traditional and country cooking.
Good food guide
The Paris gourmand/Good
food guide edited by the Paris
Convention and Visitors Bureau
offers you a list of not-to-be-
missed addresses. Ask for it at
our offices!
cosmopolitan
restaurants
and markets
Around the rue des Rosiers,
grocery stores and restaurants
serve up kosher, European and
oriental specialities. In the vicinity
of the passage Brady, you will
find India; China and the flavours
of south-east Asia in the 13th
and in Belleville; Japan in and
around rue Sainte-Anne; tajines
and couscous in Mnilmontant;
South America on the montagne
Sainte-Genevive, and Africa and
the West Indies in the Chteau-
Rouge district.
cooking and
wine lessons
Cookery workshops teach students
the clever tricks of the trade of
French chefs and the famous
savoir-faire of our grandmothers.
Savoury, sweet, basic or inventive,
authentic, and exotic, private
lessons or as a group: the choice
is yours! And as a good dinner
is always accompanied by a fine
wine, there are courses in oenology
to reveal the secrets of wine
tasting. The science of wine is no
longer just the preserve of a few
experts. Selection of addresses
at parisinfo.com and in the
brochures Paris se visite/ Visiting
Paris and Paris gourmand/Good
food guide.
fine food stores
Here, you will find fresh,
top-quality products, regional
specialities and delicacies from
all over the world. Selection of
addresses on parisinfo.com
and in the Paris gourmand/Good
food guide.
caterers
These high-class establishments
will give your soires a festive
touch with petits fours, foie gras
and champagne. Culinary dishes,
gateau and fine wines are chosen
on the premises or ordered
and then delivered. As an optional
extra: waiters, wine waiter and
even decoration at your home!
Selection of addresses at
parisinfo.com and in the Paris
gourmand/Good food guide.
cheese or dessert?
Both! Cheese sellers offer a large
selection among the 400 varieties
of French cheeses. Confectionery,
ice-cream and fine chocolate
also have specialist shops.
As for Parisian patisseries, they
are famous for their deliciously
tempting cakes and pastries to
take away or enjoy at the shop,
accompanied by a cup of tea
or a hot chocolate.
monTmarTre Wine HarVesT
The arrival of the latest vintages from the Buttes vineyard has been
celebrated since 1935, on the second weekend of October.
Tastings, traditional parades, brass bands and street entertainment
fill the village. www.fetedesvendangesdemontmartre.com
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welcome to the Left Bank, the Babylon of
beautiful things, where browsing through
the pages of a fashion magazine or an art
revue is an art in itself. This elegant world
is sprinkled with chic and shock fashion
designers, art galleries, antique galleries,
literary cafes, and publishing houses with a
whole string of prizes. Not surprising when you
consider what the muses have given it the
Acadmie Franaise, the Thtre de lOdon,
the Beaux-Arts, the Muse dOrsay, not to
mention, Montparnasse which, during The
Roaring Twenties, was a Mecca for artists from
all over the world, before drawing them
to Saint-Germain.
So much to see! Everywhere, art spills over
the threshold of museum-workshops and
boutiques. There is the Centaure by Csar at
the Carrefour de la Croix-Rouge, 17th-century
wrought-iron balconies in rue de Buci and rue
Saint-Andr-des-Arts, the Fontaine des Quatre
Parties du monde, on avenue de lObservatoire.
And if the urban scene sets your head spinning,
then go for greenery in the Luxembourg
gardens, the parks of Montsouris,
Georges-Brassens and the Jardin Atlantique.
Muse dOrsay (7th)
Saint-Germain-des-Prs (6th)
Luxembourg (6th)
Montparnasse (14th)
DonT miss
55
muse dorsay +
Pass

There is no draught in this
train station, just art and light!
Inaugurated during the Exposition
Universelle of 1900, the Orsay
train station resembled a fine
arts palace to the painter
douard Detaille which was
what it was to become 86 years
later. Unsuitable for modern
trains, its deserted platforms
finally closed in 1979. Plans
to demolish it in 1970 were
overturned just in time and
it became a listed building.
Its immense volumes were
transformed into a museum
whose canopy, nave, cupolas,
pillars, iron girders and stucco
decors draw unanimous praise.
The huge clock in the glass roof
of the central alley dominates
a chronological layout over
three main levels, focussing on
the major artistic movements in
Western art from 1848 to 1914:
painting, sculpture, graphic
arts and art objects, as well as
furniture, architecture and
photography. The period was
so productive, the collections
so rich in wonderful works (and
in isms: expressionism, fauvism,
etc.) that it seems impossible
to cite one unique masterpiece.
1 rue de la Lgion-dHonneur (7th).
m solfrino.
tel: 01 40 49 48 14.
tues to sun: 9.30am-6pm.
closed: mon, 1 Jan, 1 may and
25 Dec.
thurs: late opening until 9.45pm.
9/12 rr and on late night
opening (from 6pm): 6.50/9.50.
Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU and
1st sun of the month: free.
www.musee-orsay.fr

saint-Germain-
des-Prs
The area is bound by the Seine,
the Luxembourg gardens, the
boulevard Saint-Michel and rue
des Saints-Pres. Its name comes
from the church, the first stones
of which date back to 557.
From the 1920s, the frenzied
literary and art cliques
gravitated towards the cafes
of Saint-Germain. During the
Liberation, existentialism took
off, led by Camus and Sartre,
while basement jazz shook the
foundations with Sidney Bechet
on the clarinet and the writer
Boris Vian on the trumpet.
Saint-Germain remains an oasis of
ancient streets full of wonderful
places for art, books and the
latest must-have little items.
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Odon (lines 4, 10) Assemble-nationale (line 12) Svres-Babylone (lines 10, 12)
Montparnasse Bienvene (lines 4, 6, 12, 13) Saint-Germain-des-Prs (line 4)
Jardin and muse
du Luxembourg
Children love the Luxembourg
gardens for their wooden horses,
their model yachts to push along
with a cane on the ornamental
pond, for their refreshment
kiosks, puppet theatre, ponies,
etc. The wrought-iron chairs are
perfect for a delightful nap below
the Dames de France which form
a circle of statues. What would
Marie de Mdicis think of the
success of the palace and garden
commissioned by her? At the
time, the widow of Henri IV had
sought to recapture a little of
her native Florence. The Fontaine
Mdicis with all its niches and
nymphs is all that remains of
the Italianate grotto that she
had built in 1630. The palace has
become the seat for the Snat
(the upper house of the French
parliament). It oversees the
running of the garden and
the museum, which stages
exhibitions on modern art and
the Renaissance, of course, in
memory of the Florentine queen.
19 rue de vaugirard (6th).
m odon, rer Luxembourg.
tel: 01 40 13 62 00.
Fri to mon: 9am-10pm.
tues to thurs: 10am-8pm.
Daily: sch hols, 9am-10pm.
24 Dec and 31 Dec: 6pm closing.
closed: 25 Dec.
www.museeduluxembourg.fr
odon
Meet up in front of Danton!
The statue stands firm amongst
the wave of passers-by at the
Carrefour de lOdon, some in
a hurry, others sauntering along,
traffic, cafe lights and snaking
queues in front of cinemas keep
this neighbourhood buzzing at all
hours. The entrance to the Cour
du Commerce Saint-Andr opens
onto the crossroads. This cobbled
pedestrian street houses the
remains of the ancient city wall
of Philippe-Auguste, and amidst
the profusion of old-style shop
and restaurant signs stands
the Procope. Opened in 1688,
it is perhaps the oldest cafe in
Paris. It was the first to serve
ice creams to its clients, who
included Diderot, Rousseau
and Voltaire. The Thtre de
lEurope Thtre de lOdon
until 1990 and temple from the
Enlightenment period inaugurated
in 1792 is the stunning centre
piece of Place de lOdon. Its
programme of events represents
an important part of European
artistic heritage.
fondation cartier pour
lart contemporain
Under the auspices of a Cedar of
Lebanon planted by Chateaubriand
in the 19th century, the glass
arch envisaged by Jean Nouvel
has, since 1994, revived the
artistic tradition of the area. The
Theatrum Botanicum lies behind
a glass screen, which extends
the perspective of boulevard
Raspail. This wild-looking garden
surrounds the building, whose
entrance is adorned with a wall
of plants. Inside, a space of steel
and glass provides the perfect
showcase for contemporary
creation.
261 bd raspail (14th). m raspail.
tel: 01 42 18 56 72.
Daily: 11am-8pm, except mon,
25 Dec and 1 Jan.
tues: late opening until 10pm.
9.50 rr: 6.50. Under 10s: free.
www.fondation.cartier.com
fondation Henri-
cartier-Bresson
The lens on the 20th century,
Henri Cartier-Bresson
photographed colonial Africa, the
Spanish Civil War, the Liberation
of Paris, the last hours of Gandhi,
etc. His portraits captured Camus,
Faulkner, Mauriac and a hundred
other contemporary figures. In a
workshop dating back to 1910,
the Foundation displays the work
of the photographer, as well as
showing works by other artists.
2 impasse Lebouis (14th).
m gat. tel: 01 56 80 27 00.
tues to sun: 1pm-6.30pm.
sat: 11am-6.45pm. Wed: late
opening until 8.30pm. closed mon
and between each exhibiton.
6 rr: 4.
www.henricartierbresson.org
culT cafes
the caf de Flore, the Deux-
magots and the brasserie Lipp
make up the golden triangle
of the boulevard and Place
saint-germain and were once
the headquarters of sartre
and beauvoir, luard and
breton, Fargue and Faulkner,
as well as an antechamber
for politics and a second
office for publishers. Whats
more, all three are listed as
historical monuments.
56
?
did yOu knOw?
The Luxembourg may also be
admired from the outside:
the parks railings showcase
exhibitions of large-scale
photographs to great effect.
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57
DiscoVer
ladresse muse de la Poste
Pass
The museum conserves and exhibits a rich historic,
artistic, philatelic and scientific heritage featuring a
wide range of objects including the first postal route
maps, uniforms of postal workers, stamps, etc.
34 bd de vaugirard (15th). m montparnasse
bienvene. tel: 01 42 79 24 24. Daily: 10am-6pm,
except sun and public hols. 5 rr: 3.50.
Under 26s: free. www.ladressemuseedelaposte.fr
cole nationale suprieure
des Beaux-arts
Only the select few study at the Beaux-Arts, but
guided tours are available on reservation. Visit the
19th century at the Loges, Palais des tudes, etc.
and the Htel de Chimay for a spectrum of the 17th
and 18th centuries. After whetting your appetite, visit
the Chapelle des Louanges. Its replicas of works by
Michelangelo are housed beneath the oldest dome
in Paris, in the remains of the Couvent des Petits-
Augustins, built at the beginning of the 17th century
for Queen Margot.
institut de france
The Acadmie Franaise, founded by Richelieu in
1635, rather overshadows the smaller Acadmies
Belles-Lettres, Sciences, Beaux-Arts, Architecture,
Sciences Morales and Politiques, as well as
the Mazarine library. But each has its members
immortals seated around the famous cupola.
The Instituted promotes cultural heritage.
23 quai conti (6th). m odon.
tel: 01 44 41 44 41.
visits by appointment.
www.institut-de-france.fr
Jardin atlantique
To keep to the high ground and take in the wide open
spaces, the Montparnasse traveller can climb up to
the Jardin Atlantique a garden on top of the train
station. Yes, a roof garden! An amazing feat with an
undulating wave-like fl oor surface, evergreen pines,
the bassin des Miroitements, a fountain from the
island of Hesperides, tennis courts and fantastic
ocean-inspired kids play areas.
m montparnasse bienvene (15th).
access by lifts or steps.


Tour montparnasse +
Its 59 floors of steel and smoked glass provoked
cries of indignation when it was constructed in
1973. Since then, the tower has become a familiar
landmark, visible from all over Paris. Visitors
have an exceptional 360 view from a height
of 210 metres of all of Paris and its surroundings
within a circumference of 40 km.
33 av. du maine (15th). m montparnasse
bienvene. tel: 01 45 38 52 56.
From 1 apr to 30 sept: 9.30am-11.30pm.
From 1 oct to 31 mar: 9.30am-10.30pm.
Fri, sat, pre-public holiday: 9.30am-11pm.
13; 7-15 yrs: 7.50; 16-20 yrs: 9.50.
Under 7s: free. www.tourmontparnasse56.com
muse des lettres et manuscrits
In this museum, literary, historical and scientific
documents, as well as musical scores and
antiquarian books are on display. Relive some of
the finer moments of French history in the company
of Napolon Bonaparte, Antoine de Saint-Exupry,
Balzac, Mozart, etc.
222 bd saint-germain (7th). m rue-du-bac.
tel: 01 40 51 02 25. Daily: 10am-7pm, except mon.
thurs: late opening until 9.30pm. 7 rr: 5.
Under 12s: free. www.museedeslettres.fr
muse eugne-Delacroix
Pass
Open the door of this decidedly charming home, in
the very words of Delacroix himself. The portrait of
?
did yOu knOw?
The graffiti and little messages covering
the walls at no.5 bis rue de Verneuil (7th) are
a reminder that the singer-songwriter Serge
Gainsbourg once lived in this private town house,
now a mythical place for admirers.
m rue-du-bac.
Jenny Le Guillou, the faithful governess, is displayed
beside the Madeleine dans le dsert, which Baudelaire
marvelled at. From the lounge to the workshop
opening onto the garden, there are other paintings
and travel albums.
6 rue de Frstenberg (6th).
m saint-germain-des-Prs. tel: 01 44 41 86 50.
Daily: 9.30am-5pm. tues, 1 Jan, 1 may and 25 Dec:
closed. 5/7. Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU, 1st sun of the
month and 14 July: free. www.musee-delacroix.fr
muse Bourdelle
At the beginning of the 20th century, artists studios
filled Montparnasse. Today, that of mile-Antoine
Bourdelle numbers 500 sculpted works in marble,
plaster and bronze, along with canvases and
watercolours. The Centaure mourant stands in the
great hall. The exhibition continues in the studios
and then in rooms. It continues in a winter garden
of ivy and acacias where, declared the sculptor,
spring laughs, summer burns and time dreams.
18 rue antoine-bourdelle (15th).
m montparnasse bienvene. tel: 01 49 54 73 73.
Daily: 10am-6pm, except mon, public hols, easter sun
and Whit sun. Permanent collections: free.
www.bourdelle.paris.fr
glise saint-sulpice
The church has the dimensions and majesty of a
cathedral. Its construction began in the 17th century
on the site of a previous building dating back to the
13th century and lasted over 135 years, due to a lack
of funds, giving it treasures from each period: a choir
decorated with statues by Bouchardon, a Vierge
lEnfant and two fonts in the shape of shells sculpted
by Pigalle, the Chapelle des Saints-Anges whose
frescoes, filled the last years of Delacroix life.
Place saint-sulpice (6th). m saint-sulpice.
tel: 01 46 33 21 78. Daily: 7.30am-7.30pm.
mmorial du marchal leclerc
de Hautecloque et de la Libration
de Paris muse Jean moulin
Focus on the action of two emblematic figures of
WWII: one a leader of the free French units, the other
a French resistance leader. A wall of images from
audiovisual archives plunges the visitor into occupied
Paris, insurgent Paris, and finally liberated Paris.
23 alle de la 2
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Db. Jardin atlantique covering
the gare montparnasse (15th). m montparnasse
bienvene. tel: 01 40 64 39 44.
Daily, except mon, public hols, easter sun and Whit
sun: 10am-6pm. Permanent collections: free.
www.ml-leclerc-moulin.paris.fr
cimetire du montparnasse
Since 1824, the cemetery in the south of Paris has
been a green campo santo of artists and men and
women of letters: Bartholdi, Baudelaire, Csar, Duras,
Ionesco, Maupassant, Sartre and Beauvoir, Zadkine.
Gainsbourg, the Lilas ticket-puncher, collects metro
tickets (in reference to the song he wrote). Brancusi
placed a cubist Kiss and Niki de Saint Phalle a cat
in mosaic to brighten the grave of a friend. But those
who enjoy something really original will fi nd it at
the grave of Monsieur and Madame Charles Pigeon!
Parc montsouris
Like the Buttes-Chaumont, this landscaped garden
of the Second Empire takes its inspiration from
the parks of London. The grotto, artificial mounds
and valleys are so convincing that even the crested
tit and the serin are duped. On the island, they nest
close to turtles from Florida, male mallard ducks
and their female companions. Around the lake,
there are rolling lawns, play areas, a ginkgo biloba
and 1,399 other trees, and even a weather station.
14th. rer b cit-Universitaire.

muse curie institut du radium
It was here that Marie Curie, her daughter and
son-in-law, Irne and Frdric Joliot-Curie, carried
out their research after the death of Pierre Curie in
1906. The laboratory, now a museum, retraces an
episode in the history of the sciences inextricably
linked to this family with fi ve Nobel prizes.
1 rue Pierre-et-marie-curie (5th).
rer Luxembourg. tel: 01 56 24 55 33.
www.curie.fr/musee
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Parc Georges-Brassens
A brief tram ride will take you from the Cit
Universitaire to Georges-Brassens park for further
bucolic adventures amongst the beehives, Pinot Noir
grapes, and honeysuckle and jasmine in the
scented garden; playful adventures too with table
tennis, merry-go-round, ponies and climbing;
intellectual adventures can be found at the book
market, each weekend, under the covered Halle
aux Chevaux of the former Vaugirard abattoir.
rue des morillons (15th). m convention.

Place Denfert-rochereau
and Catacombes
At the intersection of a constellation of avenues,
the bronze lion by Bartholdi faces West so as not
to offend the Prussian enemy, defeated at Belfort in
1870. Around the perimeter stand the two unpopular
tax pavilions that punctuated the wall encircling
Paris until the 19th century. Denfert is also the
entrance to the Land of the Dead or catacombs
the underground tunnels used as the ossuary of the
cemetery of the Innocents in 1785. A wall of skulls
and a rotunda of tibias isnt for sensitive souls, so you
might prefer to get away to the area in and around rue
Daguerre with its attractive small shops and eateries.
catacombes de Paris
1 av. du colonel-Henri-rol-tanguy (14th).
m Denfert-rochereau. tel: 01 43 22 47 63.
tues to sun: 10am-5pm. cash desks close at 4pm.
closed mon, easter sun and Whit sun.
8. rr: 4, 6. www.catacombes.paris.fr
monnaie de Paris
Pass
La Monnaie de Paris has committed to an ambitious
renovation project MtaLmorphoses of its Parisian
site in order to allow a larger number of the public
to enjoy its heritage. This project will turn the
Monnaie de Paris into a new venue, welcome and
open to the public from January 2013, with a new
cultural programme offering art workshops, as well
as displaying never-before-seen treasures from the
collection of the Monnaie de Paris.
Htel de la monnaie. 11 quai conti (6th).
m Pont-neuf. tel: 01 40 46 56 66.
closed for renovation until beginning 2013.
www.monnaiedeparis.fr
Observatoire de Paris
Your majestys glory depends on it, scientists
assured Louis XIV when they pleaded for an
astronomical observatory. Eight years later, in 1672,
the building was completed according to the plans of
architect Claude Perrault, brother of the story writer.
There are guided visits of the Moon, the phases
of Venus and some Sunspots by appointment.
77 av. Denfert-rochereau (14th).
m Denfert-rochereau. tel: 01 40 51 22 21.
2hr guided visits by an astronomer on Fri from
2pm-4pm. For groups only.
res. necessary. www.grandpublic.obspm.fr
chapelle notre-Dame-
de-la-mdaille-miraculeuse
In 1830, the Virgin ordered Catherine Labour, a
novice at the Couvent des Filles-de-la-Charit-de-
Saint-Vincent-de-Paul, to have a medal minted that
would protect its bearers. The first miracles were
indicated when cholera ravaged Paris. The medals
favours spread across the world, Catherine was
canonized and pilgrims fl ocked to the chapel.
140 rue du bac (7th). m svres-babylone.
www.chapellenotredamedelamedaille
miraculeuse.com
muse Zadkine
The museum houses the home and workshops where
Ossip Zadkine (1890-1967), the French sculptor
of Russian origin and a major figure of the cole
de Paris, lived and worked from 1928 to 1967.
100 bis rue dassas (6th). m notre-Dame-des-
champs. tel: 01 55 42 77 20. Daily: 10am-6pm, except
mon, and public hols, easter sun and Whit sun.
Permanent collections: free (except during temporary
exhibition periods). www.zadkine.paris.fr
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Youll find artistic design
everywhere in Paris.
not just in museums but
in haute couture, design,
jewellery, objects and
works of art all very
much in the present.
the capital of fashion is a
breeding ground for young
stylists. this avant-garde
current runs through the
area in and around Place
des victoires, Palais-royal,
and in the marais. Discover
contemporary creation at
one of the seasonal fashion
events (the biennale de Paris,
the festivals dautomne et
mergences, the Fiac, the
mois de la photographie,
etc.). but also in galleries,
specialist markets, museums
of course, art foundations (la
maison rouge, les fondations
eDF-electra, cartier, etc.),
cultural centres: swedish
(rue Payenne) or swiss (rue
des Francs-bourgeois), the
institutes: du monde arabe
(Place mohammed-v), goethe
(avenue dina), Finnish (rue
des coles) or mexican (rue
vieille-du-temple) and more.
on a smaller scale, there are
workshops, and alternative
scenes like artists in residence
as well as authorised squats,
like the Point phmre
(quai de valmy), the squat
59 rivoli-lectrons libres
(rue de rivoli) or La gnrale
(rue du gnral-Lassalle).
artists studios
It is possible to see artists
other than in museums and art
galleries. You can visit them
in their workplace and some
even open up their studios on a
permanent basis; others just open
from time to time, notably during
the Journes Portes Ouvertes,
organized by associations of
artists. Dont miss them: they take
place in the summer, sometimes
in quite unusual places.
anvers aux abbesses (9th)
3rd w/e in November.
Tel: 08 77 04 45 10.
www.anversauxabbesses.fr
ateliers de belleville (20th)
In May.
Tel: 01 77 12 63 13.
www.ateliers-artistes-belleville.org
ateliers de mnilmontant (20th)
In September/October.
Tel: 01 43 66 54 87.
www.ateliersdemenilmontant.org
ateliers des Frigos (13th)
In May.
www.les-frigos.com
Pre-Lachaise (20th)
In November.
Tel: 06 11 20 77 06.
www.apla.fr
markets/specialist
shops
These markets and shops are
full of beautiful things! Discover
the expertise of designers
watercolourists, ceramicists,
arTisTic
CREATION
creators of original jewellery
and textiles, designers, engravers,
painters, photographers, visual
artists, sculptors and give
in to temptation!
Les artistes du march
de la cration de Paris
montparnasse
At the foot of Montparnasse Tower.
Boulevard Edgar-Quinet (14th).
M Edgar Quinet.
Sun: 10am-7pm.
Tel: 03 86 96 80 93.
www.marchecreation.com
The artists and craft workers are
present to talk about and sell
their work.
galerie elsa vanier
7 rue du Pr-aux-Clercs (7th).
M Rue-du-Bac.
Tel: 01 47 03 45 00.
www.elsa-vanier.fr
Jewellery of jewellers and goldand
silverware designers.
Lle aux images
51 rue Saint-Louis-en-lle (4th).
M Pont-Marie.
Tel: 01 56 24 15 22.
www.lileauximages.com
Purchase-sale of collectors
photographs and lithographs.
march de la cration
Paris bastille
Bd Richard-Lenoir (11th).
M Bastille.
Sat: 10am-7pm.
www.artistesparisbastille.fr
200 artists (water-colourists, etc.)
present and sell their works.
61
Paris, caPiTal of creaTion
Each year, this operation brings together some thirty professional
trade fairs for fashion, design, art professions and house and home.
Over 400,000 sq.m. of exhibition space play host to professionals from
115 countries: 17,500 designers and manufacturers, of which 50%
foreigners, and 700,000 buyers including 350,000 foreign buyers.
Get the Guide des 200 adresses incontournables (200 top addresses
guide). Also available to download from the website, it suggests
a design trail across the capital to discover designers, museums,
art galleries, fashion designers, cafes, bookshops, etc.
information: www.pariscapitaledelacreation.com
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Every first Saturday in October, from 7pm to
dawn, this event organized by the City of Paris,
provides free access to contemporary design
sites that are sometimes quite surprising, in
several neighbourhoods of Paris. It is a great
success! Interactive works, concerts of images,
live shows: these aesthetic explorations with
their festive air are becoming ever more
popular. Programme on www.paris.fr
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talents ateliers dart de France
1 bis rue Scribe (9th).
Tel: 01 40 17 98 38.
www.ateliersdart.com
Unique pieces and limited series
by more than 100 French creative
artists.
art galleries
Take your time to examine that
highly-coveted object, discuss it
with the gallery owner and if
a sale is agreed you will receive
a certificate of authenticity.
Prestigious galleries of art objects
and antiques (fine paintings,
jewellery, furniture, etc.) have,
since the 1850s, occupied the area
near the Drouot auction rooms
(9th), the surrounding covered
arcades and the neighbourhood
of the Bourse (2nd). Also very
up-market are the numerous
galleries in Saint-Germain-des-
Prs. Contemporary design reigns
at Bastille, around the Centre
Pompidou and in the Marais,
rues Saint-Claude, de Turenne
and Vieille-du-Temple. Every
two months or so, each gallery
renews its exhibition of objects
for sale: photos, paintings and
installations. A new generation
of gallery owners has moved into
the former industrial districts of
the 13th arrondissement, rues
Chevaleret, Duchefdelaville,
Louise-Weiss.
n.b.: contemporary art is also
becoming popular on the heights
of Belleville and around the Parc
des Buttes-Chaumont.
carr dartistes galeries dart
66 rue Saint-Andr-des-Arts (6th).
Tel: 01 43 25 61 72.
29 rue Vieille-du-Temple (4th).
Tel: 01 44 61 73 23.
14-16 rue Yvonne-Le-Tac (18th).
Tel: 01 42 54 97 84.
www.carredartistes.com
250 professional artists.
graff art
27 rue Paul-Bert.
93400 Saint-Ouen.
Tel: 01 40 10 15 86.
Fri to Mon: 10am-6pm and by
appointment from Tues to Thurs.
www.graffart.fr
First permanent Graffiti gallery.
outdoor art
and street art
The streets, squares and gardens
of Paris are home to thousands of
works of art. There are well-known
ones like the Buren columns at
the Palais-Royal or the Stravinsky
fountain on the esplanade at the
Centre Pompidou. Others are more
unobtrusive, as were the 135 Arago
medallions, by Jan Dibbets, before
the success of the Da Vinci Code.
The medallions are set into the
pavement on the old Paris Meridian
line. On the sidelines of official
commissions, clandestine art
expression frescoes, graffiti,
stencils, ceramics, etc. occupy
public areas. Nmos art works
can be found in Belleville along
with the phantom silhouettes of
Jrme Mnager. As for the love
graffiti of the tagger Andr and the
mysterious mosaic Space Invaders,
just look around and you will see
them more or less all over!
Green design
Being environmentally conscious
and responsible is a growing trend
today. Design raises consumer
awareness. Brands are therefore
offering hand-made products,
using renewable materials in
conditions that respect the
environment. See specialist
retail outlets.
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The area around the Eiffel Tower is on a fitting
scale to the tower itself. On a clear night,
its beam sweeps through the sky in a radius
covering 80 kilometres. The spectacle
is awesome and one feels so small in this
grandiose area with its massive buildings
and vast green spaces! Just opposite, for
example, are the gems of the 1937 Exposition
Universelle: seventy-one artists decorated
the Palais de Chaillot and a quartet of
architects designed the Palais de Tokyo
and its white colonnade. On show in the latter
is the acclaimed fresco La Fe lectricit
by Dufy and the monumental La Danse triptychs
by Matisse. For La Porte de lEnfer, see
the Muse Rodin.
And what spectacular perspectives! One
stretching from the Esplanade des Invalides
to beyond Pont Alexandre III. Another between
the equestrian statues of the two marshals,
Foch in Place du Trocadro and Joffre in the
Champ-de-Mars, in front of the cole Militaire.
Did you know that this institution trained
a young Corsican, who was an excellent sailor,
and who was none other than Napolon
Bonaparte? Today, his imperial remains lie
beneath the golden dome of the Invalides.
Tour Eiffel (7th)
Champ-de-Mars (15th)
Invalides (7th)
Trocadro (16th)
DonT miss
63
?
did yOu knOw?
The Wall of Peace erected
at the foot of the Eiffel Tower
on the Champ de Mars is
similar to the Wailing Wall
in Jerusalem.
champ de mars
and the eiffel Tower
The vast park laid out below the
famous tower has nothing warlike
about it! Its name, borrowed from
the god of war, relates to its early
history as an exercise area for
the young cadets of the military
school. Later, as the centre point
of the Expositions universelles,
it was chosen as the site of the
biggest attraction of 1889, the
Eiffel Tower. Stop to gaze up
at all of its 324 metres!
The tower was saved from
demolition after twenty years
because of its scientific utility.
A few more figures: 10,100 tons,
2,500,000 rivets, 1,665 steps,
two years of relentless work for
the 50 engineers and 132 workers
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invalides (lines 8, 13) cole-Militaire (line 8) Trocadro (lines 6, 9) ina (line 9)
La-Tour-Maubourg (line 8) Bir-Hakeim (line 6) Varenne (line 13) Rue-du-Bac (line 12)
directed by Gustave Eiffel, and
more than 250 million visitors
since its construction. The tower
is a special landmark symbolizing
Paris and France throughout
the world and it sparkles every
evening for the first five minutes
of every hour until 1am.
champ-de-mars (7th).
m bir-Hakeim.
tel: 08 92 70 12 39 (0.337/min).
From 1 Jan to 14 Jun and from
2 sept until 31 Dec: 9.30am-11pm.
From 15 Jun to 1 sept:
9am-midnight.
Lifts: 8.50 rr: 4/7.
stairs: 5 rr: 3/3.50.
summit by lift: 14
rr: 9.50/12,50.
Under 4s: free.
www.tour-eiffel.fr
Trocadro
The elevated Troca has a
privileged viewpoint of the Eiffel
Tower on the opposite bank of
the Seine. Between the curved
wings of the vast Palais de
Chaillot emblem of the 1930s
are gently sloping terraces and
gardens, bordered by century-old
Caucasian wingnut and hazel
trees, and dotted with gilded
bronze statues. Skaters and
rollerbladers weave alongside
the fountains beneath the gaze
of Apollo and Hercules, sculpted
on the pediment of the pavilions.
?
did yOu knOw?
The 20 cannons of the large
basin discharge 8,240 m
3

of water per hour and 56
fountains or jets complete the
display with a waterfall effect.
?
did yOu knOw?
Under the famous dome,
redecorated with 12kg of gold
in 1989, the remains of the
emperor lie in five successive
coffins set into a block of red
quartzite from Finland!
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invalides
In 1671, Louis XIV decided to build
a royal hostel that would be large
and spacious enough to house
all officers, crippled, old and
retired alike. The pensioners
began arriving in 1674. The
glise Saint-Louis or Soldiers
Church and the glise du Dme
(transformed into a military
pantheon) were built afterwards.
This magnificent ensemble, with
its wonderful green lawn, today
houses cannons, the Muse de
lArme and the Muse des Plans
et Reliefs. The Muse de lArme
houses the tomb of Napolon I,
the department of arms and
ancient armoury and that of
the two world wars and the
Charles de Gaulle History
Museum. As for the modern
department (17th-19th centuries),
it has reopened following
restoration work.
Htel national des invalides
129 rue de grenelle (7th).
m La-tour-maubourg,
invalides.
tel: 0 810 11 33 99 (price of a local call).
muse de lordre
de la Libration
Pass

closed until 2014.
www.ordredelaliberation.fr
muse des Plans-reliefs
Pass
129 rue de grenelle (7th).
m La-tour-maubourg, invalides.
tel: 01 45 51 95 05.
1 oct to 31 mar: 10am-5pm.
1 apr to 30 sept: 10am-6pm.
1st mon of the month, 1 Jan,
1 may, 1 nov and 25 Dec: closed.
9 rr: 7.
Under 26s: free.
www.museedesplansreliefs.
culture.fr
muse de larme
tomb of napolon i
Pass
Htel national des invalides.
129 rue de grenelle (7th).
m La-tour-maubourg, invalides.
tel: 0 810 11 33 99 (price of a local call).
1 apr to 30 sept: 10am-6pm.
1 oct to 31 mar: 10am-5pm.
1 Jan, 1 may, 25 Dec and
1st mon of the month (except from
July to sept): closed. 9 rr: 7.
Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU: free.
www.invalides.org
muse national
rodin
Pass
Auguste Rodin took up residence
here in 1908, surrounded by
a park teeming with brambles
and rabbits. The museum opened
in 1919, two years after his death.
Sculptures in marble, bronze,
and terracotta alternate with
drawings by the master, works
by Camille Claudel (his muse),
paintings by his friends Carrires,
Monet, Van Gogh and others.
In the garden, roses and statues
have replaced the rabbits,
but the charm remains unique.
Htel biron
79 rue de varenne (7th).
m varenne.
tel: 01 44 18 61 10.
Daily: 10am-5.45pm. mon, 1 Jan,
1 may, 25 Dec: closed.
Partial opening of the museum
during renovation work from
apr 2012 until 2013.
www.musee-rodin.fr
muse du
quai Branly
Pass
In a green setting, at the foot
of the Eiffel Tower and on the
banks of the Seine, the Muse
du Quai Branly showcases
the arts and civilizations of Africa,
Asia, Oceania and the Americas.
Visitors can discover over
3,500 objects, international
temporary exhibitions, stunning
architecture, an unusual plant
wall, an excellent bookshop,
restaurant Les Ombres and
the caf Branly.
37 quai branly (7th).
m alma marceau.
tel: 01 56 61 70 00.
tues, Wed, sun: 11am-7pm.
thurs, Fri, sat: 11am-9pm.
8.50 rr: 6.
Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU,
1st sun of the month: free.
www.quaibranly.fr
DiscoVer
JusT arounD
THe corner
the museums Panthon bouddhique displays
pieces brought back from Japan in 1876
by mile guimet, an industrialist from Lyon,
a fervent admirer of the culture of the Far east
and founder of the museum that bears his name.
19 av. dIna (16th). M Ina.
Tel: 01 40 73 88 00.
Daily: 9.45am-5.45pm. Closed Tues.
Free.
muse national des arts asiatiques
Guimet
Pass
Wonderfully renovated with modern design, it is
the biggest museum in Europe devoted entirely to
Asian art. From Buddhas from Afghanistan to Zen
monks from Japan, Indian fabric, Samourai weapons,
treasures from Angkor, and refined art from China,
the museums collections are outstanding and a
wonderful way to get to the heart of Asian culture.
6 place dina (16th). m ina.
tel: 01 56 52 53 00.
Daily: 10am-6pm, except tues. 7.50 rr: 5.50.
Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU: free. www.guimet.fr
Palais de Tokyo, contemporary
creation
The spacious dimensions brightened with acid tones
are a showcase for emerging contemporary art.
From midday to midnight, experimental, irreverent,
international, and often interactive exhibitions
and events brighten the line-up. The shop disguised
as a petrol station from the suburbs of Stockholm
is stocked with amusing objects in limited series;
under the luminous pink and green saucers of
the restaurant, one can enjoy peas with mint and
clementines en gratin.
13 av. du Prsident-Wilson (16th). m ina.
tel: 01 47 23 54 01.
tues to sun: 12pm-9pm. 1 Jan, 1 may
and 25 Dec: closed. 3 rr: 1. Under 18s,
disabled: free. www.palaisdetokyo.com

muse dart moderne
de la Ville de Paris
It shows the pure tones of the fauvists,
the deconstructed shapes of the cubists and
Les Disques by Fernand Lger. It features all the
trends in non-figurative art, from the cole de Paris,
Modigliani, Soutine, and Giacomettis search for
the absolute to photos by Brassa. It also covers the
1950s and the following decades with New Realism,
Arte Povera, Support/Surface, Fluxus, and more.
It honours great contemporary figures, such as
Boltanski, Bourgeois, and Buren, and supports
the most outstanding trends in new design.
The Citys museum of modern art illuminates
the east wing of the Palais de Tokyo!
11 av. du Prsident-Wilson (16th). m ina.
tel: 01 53 67 40 00. Daily: 10am-6pm, except mon,
public hols, easter sun and Whit sun.
thurs: late opening until 10pm.
Permanent collections free.
www.mam.paris.fr
muse de lHomme
Even its name will change! Currently closed for
renovation work, the Muse de lHomme will
reopen in 2015 as a brand new wonderful museum
of mankind. On the programme: a great journey
through time from mans appearance 150,000 years
ago to the present day, in a totally new laid out
museum.
Palais de chaillot. 17 place du trocadro (16th).
m trocadro. www.mnhn.fr

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muse national de la marine
Pass
Discover more than 1,000 extraordinary objects
retracing 300 years of maritime history: models of
ships and machines, figureheads, paintings, sailors
souvenirs, weapons, navigation instruments, etc.
Palais de chaillot. 17 place du trocadro (16th).
m trocadro. tel: 01 53 65 69 53 (info and res).
mon, Wed, thurs, Fri: 11am-6pm. sat, sun:
11am-7pm. tues, 1 Jan, 1 may, 25 Dec: closed.
museum: 7 rr: 5.
museum and exhibition: 9 rr: 7.
(audioguide included).
18-25 yrs eU: free. www.musee-marine.fr

muse maillol
fondation Dina-Vierny
Dina Vierny was the muse and friend of the painter
and sculptor Aristide Maillol. The foundation
and the museum reveal the work of the artist
and offer a panorama of 20th-century art through
his collection and that of Dina: B for Bonnard,
D for Duchamp, K for Kandinsky S for seductive!
Fondation Dina-vierny. 61 rue de grenelle (7th).
m rue-du-bac. tel: 01 42 22 59 58.
From mon to thurs and from sat to sun:
10.30am-7pm, except 25 Dec and 1 Jan.
Fri: open until 9.30pm. 11 rr: 9/7.
Under 16s: free. www.museemaillol.com
The american church
Built in 1931, this was the first American church
built outside of the United States. Believers,
students, expatriates of all nationalities
and all faiths are welcome at this Gothic-inspired
cathedral where mass is said in English.
65 quai dorsay (7th). m alma marceau.
tel: 01 40 62 05 00. www.acparis.org
Palais Galliera muse
de la mode de la Ville de Paris
In the course of temporary exhibitions showcasing
a part of its invaluable and fragile collections
90,000 costumes and accessories from the
18th-century to today the museum offers
an insight into past and contemporary fashion.
10 av. Pierre-i
er
-de-serbie (16th). m ina.
tel: 01 56 52 86 00. closed for renovation until
the first trimester of 2013. www.galliera.paris.fr
les gouts de Paris
Pass
Underground Paris, what an adventure! 2,400 km
of pipes; some 31,600 manhole covers for easy
access; 500 sewer workers responsible for the
upkeep and 1 underground visit to find out
everything there is to know about the water cycle.
opposite 93, quai dorsay (7th). m alma marceau.
tel: 01 53 68 27 81. Daily except thurs, Fri and
2 weeks mid-Jan.1 may to 30 sept: 11am-5pm.
1 oct to 30 apr: 11am-4pm. 4.30 rr: 3.50.
Under 6s: free. www.paris.fr
cit de larchitecture
et du patrimoine
Pass
Housed in a wing of the Palais de Chaillot,
this cit open to all devotes its 23,000 sq.m.
to the urban environment. The museums galleries
present architectural moulds, medieval and
Renaissance wall paintings and an architectural
panorama from 1850 to the present day.
Palais de chaillot. 1 place du trocadro (16th).
m trocadro. rer c champ-de-mars tour-eiffel.
tel: 01 58 51 52 00. mon, Wed, Fri, sat, sun:
11am-7pm. thurs: 11am-7pm. closed tues,
1 Jan, 1 may and 25 Dec.
8 rr: 5. Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU,
1st sun of the month: free. www.citechaillot.fr

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if youd like an idea of what
there is to do then how
about exploring 6,500 years
of history, 200 museums
and monuments, 171
churches and temples,
3 opera houses and more?
The top ten classics
To brush up on the classic sights,
start with the top ten: 13,650,000
people visited Notre-Dame in 2010.
Behind this star site, the 9 most-
visited museums and monuments
are the Sacr-Cur, the Louvre, the
Eiffel Tower, the Centre Pompidou,
the Muse dOrsay, the Cit des
Sciences et de lIndustrie de la
Villette, the Chapelle Notre-Dame
de la Mdaille miraculeuse, the
Muse dhistoire naturelle and the
Galeries nationales du Grand Palais.
national museums
Their missions are: an acquisitions
policy to enrich the national
collections, the reception of the
general public and the organization
of temporary exhibitions.
There are 15 in Paris: the Muses
Eugne-Delacroix, Ennery, Hbert
(closed), Jean-Jacques-Henner,
Louvre, Gustave-Moreau, Cluny
Muse national du Moyen ge,
Orangerie, Orsay, Picasso
(closed for work until 2013),
Rodin, Galeries Nationales du
Grand Palais, Palais de la Porte-
Dore tropical aquarium,
the Arts asiatiques-Guimet
and the Muse du Luxembourg.
culTure
AND MUSEUMS
ciTy of Paris museums
Art, history, literature the City of Paris presents the second most
important collections after those of the State! 14 sites and museums
belong to the Paris City Council: the Muses dArt Moderne, Bourdelle,
Carnavalet histoire de Paris, Cernuschi arts de lAsie, Cognacq-Jay,
Galliera muse de la Mode, Vie Romantique, Zadkine, the house
of Balzac, the Catacombes, the Crypte Archologique du parvis de
Notre-Dame, the Mmorial du Marchal Leclerc de Hauteclocque et
de la Libration de Paris the Muse Jean-Moulin, the Petit Palais
muse des Beaux-Arts and the house of Victor Hugo.
N.B.: admission to these sites is free for everyone, except for
temporary exhibitions, the Catacombes, the Crypte de Notre-Dame,
and Galliera Muse de la mode (closed for work until spring 2013).
www.paris.fr
museums,
good to know
They open at 10am, close at 5pm
or 6pm, and sometimes open late
one evening each week. Most are
closed on Monday or Tuesday,
and on some public holidays.
For guided visits, contact
museums for information.
free
The permanent collections of
national museums and monuments
are free for young Europeans aged
18 to 25 as well for currently
employed French teachers.
The places concerned are
indicated in this guide. Admission
is free on the first Sunday of each
month in the national museums.
And free all the time for under 18s,
art history students, journalists
and teachers (www.rmn.fr).
On presentation of proof of status,
reductions or free admission will
be given to young people aged
under 18, or under 26, students,
disabled people, unemployed
people, teachers, etc. Contact
each site for details.
Paris museum Pass +
This pass gives you free and
unlimited access without having
to queue to over 60 museums
and monuments in Paris and the
Paris region (except temporary
exhibitions). Three different
passes (2, 4 or 6 consecutive
days for 39, 54 or 69) are on
sale at the Paris Convention and
Visitors Bureau, on parisinfo.com
and at participating sites
(www.parismuseumpass.fr).
The places included in the pass
are indicated in this guide
by the pictogram
Pass

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This elegant district grew from two small
villages Passy and Auteuil. Fine houses line
the quiet avenues, concerts are regularly given
by the Radio France Philharmonic Orchestra,
horse riders trot along the sandy pathways,
the hamlets are shrouded in foliage, and birds
chirp above the tennis courts.
In the past, people came here to enjoy
the thermal springs and pleasures of the
countryside away from Paris. Boileau,
La Fontaine, Molire, Racine and Ninon de
Lenclos were regular visitors to the Auberge
du Mouton Blanc, rue dAuteuil. Formerly the
parade ground for carriages and fine clothes,
people now come to the Bois on Sunday to enjoy
the open air, jog, or row on the lake. Several
mansion houses were built here, along with
some rather crazy-looking villas.
Today, the district makes for surprising
architectural tours. Looking for Guimard, one
comes across the Studio Building by Sauvage,
rue dAgar, and the sandstone building
by the Perret brothers, rue Franklin.
Visiting Le Corbusier, square du Docteur-
Blanche, one discovers the nearby light and
cubic Cit Mallet-Stevens, built in the 1920s
Chic, simple, and peaceful.
Auteuil (16th)
Bois de Boulogne (16th)
Porte Maillot (16th)
Passy, La Muette (16th)
DonT miss
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did yOu knOw?
Since 1860, the Jardin
dAcclimatation has been a
paradise for children with its
Enchanted River, little train,
fairground rides, farm and
vegetable garden, museum,
puppet theatre, and workshops
(cooking, calligraphy, magic,
etc.) for children aged 3 to 10.
There is something for parents
too with chocolate, perfume,
and dance workshops.
bois de boulogne (16th).
m Les sablons.
tel: 01 40 67 90 82.
oct to mar: 10am-6pm.
apr to sept: 10am-7pm.
Park: 2.90 rr: 1.45.
train (return trip): 2.70.
Park + train: 5.60
rr: 4.15.
Under 3s: free.
www.jardindacclimatation.fr
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Porte-Maillot (line 1) Porte-dauphine (line 2) La Muette (line 9) Passy (line 6)
Porte-dAuteuil (line 10) Alma Marceau (line 9)
Bois de Boulogne
A part of the forest that once
surrounded ancient Paris, the
Bois (Wood), a place of debauchery
in the 18th century, became a
fashionable promenade in the
Belle poque period thanks to
the wide lane linking it to Paris,
the creation of lakes and little
rivers, the Pr-Catelan in 1855,
along with racecourses in 1857
and 1873. A green 845 hectare
lung, whose paths are a favourite
place for joggers, horses and
cyclists; the great waterfall
attracts photographers, while
rowing boat fans enjoy the lake,
and children have fun in
the play areas.
16th. m Porte-maillot.

Hippodrome dauteuil
and Hippodrome
de longchamp
Do you have a preference for
steeplechases or flat racing?
The former take place on the
eastern side of the Bois de
Boulogne, at the 33-hectare
Auteuil racecourse, with
18 hectares of track, hedges and
steeplechase. For cheering on the
jockeys and thoroughbreds in flat
racing, the 57-hectare Longchamp
racecourse in the western part
of the Bois is the place to go.
You dont have to be a betting fan
to enjoy a day out here! Around
the track and stands, you have the
choice of panoramic restaurants,
brasseries, picnic areas, free
childrens play areas, ponies
and behind-the-scenes visits.
?
did yOu knOw?
In 1874, Monet exhibited Une
chose faite au Havre (something
done at Le Havre), which he
did not know how to name.
Put Impression, he said.
The thing known as Impression,
Soleil levant (Sunrise) gave
its name to the movement
that revolutionized painting at
the end of the 19th century
Impressionism.
DiscoVer
muse
marmottan monet
A former hunting lodge devoted to
several passions. From the Middle
Ages, there are illuminated
manuscripts, while under the
Third Republic, the art historian
Paul Marmottan reconstituted
the grandeur of the First Empire
with a bronze and mahogany
bed belonging to Napolon, a
backgammon table and pieces of
Svres biscuit porcelain. Also over
a hundred Impressionist paintings
by Degas, Manet, Berthe Morisot,
Pissarro, Renoir, Sisley and
especially Monet. The Nymphas
(Water Lilies) are here, as well as
the Cathdrale de Rouen, and
the Pont Japonais.
2 rue Louis-boilly (16th).
m La muette.
tel: 01 44 96 50 33.
thurs: open until 8pm.
tues to sun: 10am-6pm.
mon, 1 Jan, 1 may and 25 Dec:
closed. 10 rr: 5. Under 7s:
free. www.marmottan.com
Parc de Bagatelle
city of Paris Botanical
Garden
The result of a bet wagered
between Marie-Antoinette and
the Comte dArtois, this Anglo-
Chinese bagatelle nestling
in the Bois de Boulogne was
created in just 64 days!
The garden has a renowned rose
garden, peacocks, little bridges,
water lilies, pagoda, waterfalls,
a restaurant, classical concerts,
and temporary exhibitions!
bois de boulogne (16th).
m Porte-maillot.
tel: 01 53 64 53 80/82.
contact for opening times.
muse Dapper
Since 1986, ancestral and
contemporary African arts have
been showcased here with
exhibitions, shows, meetings,
and a cinema club. With time,
the scope of the collections has
been extended to include the
culture of the Caribbean and the
diasporas of sub-Saharan Africa.
35 bis rue Paul-valry (16th).
m victor-Hugo.
tel: 01 45 00 91 75. Daily: 11am-
7pm, except tues. 6 rr: 4.
Under 26s, and last Wed of the
month: free. www.dapper.com.fr
stade roland-Garros muse
de la fdration franaise de
Tennis and behind-the-scenes tour
Borg, Connors, McEnroe, Noah What tennis
champion has not played on the centre court
or no.1 court? The stadium was built in 1928 to create
a venue worthy of defending the Davis Cup (won on
American soil). Since then, Roland-Garros has staged
the International Tennis Championships each year
welcoming 500 players and 400,000 spectators!
The tennis museum offers permanent and thematic
exhibitions. Also, discover the changing rooms,
press centre, famous centre court, and memorable
anecdotes on a guided tour (French/English).
2 av. gordon-bennett (16th). m Porte-dauteuil.
tel: 01 47 43 48 48. Wed, Fri, sat, and sun:
10am-6pm. 10. Under 18s and students: 8.
combined with the museum: 15; students: 12;
Under 18s: 10. www.fft.fr/site-tenniseum/
Jardin des serres dauteuil
city of Paris Botanical Garden
This garden is a world of surprises: classic and
regular, then winding and hilly in the English style;
Japanese here, Mediterranean there, rich in art with
its Dalou fountain and Rodin mascarons , and in
botany with its 230 varieties of trees and flowers.
And so exotic too, in the tropics of the 19th-century
hothouses! Palm trees, birds in an aviary, banana
trees, hibiscus, carps and passionfl owers thrive.
16th. m Porte-dauteuil. tel: 39 75.
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Fondation Le Corbusier
The foundation which houses the work of the
Swiss-born, French-naturalized architect, designer
and painter, occupies the Jeanneret and La Roche
maisons (houses), built in 1923. The latter is open
to visitors and applies the five points of modern
architecture defined by Le Corbusier: free-standing
pillars, roof garden, free facade, an open plan,
and long windows. White dominates, light floods in,
and the configuration is astonishing.
8-10 square du Dr-blanche (16th). m Jasmin.
tel: 01 42 88 41 53.
maison La roche: tel: 01 42 88 75 72.
mon: 1.30-6pm. tues, Wed, thurs: 10am-6pm.
Fri, sat: 10am-5pm.
visit Le corbusiers apartment: tel: 01 42 88 75 72.
24 rue nungesser et coli (16th). m Porte-dauteuil.
sat: 10am-1pm and 1.30pm-5pm.
www.fondationlecorbusier.asso.fr
fondation Pierre Berg
yves saint laurent
The Foundation organizes fashion, painting, photography
and decorative arts exhibitions every year Another
mission of the Foundations is the conservation
and promotion of Yves Saint Laurents work.
5 av. marceau (16th). m alma marceau.
tel: 01 44 31 64 00. From tues to sun: 11am-6pm.
closed: mon and public hols. 7 rr: 5.
www.fondation-pb-ysl.net
muse Baccarat
The magic of this mansion founded in 1764 and
transformed into a crystal palace by the designer
Philippe Starck, operates on three levels. Everything
begins with monumental rooms and candelabras
Folie des Grandeurs. Next is Alchimie, where some
of the secrets of crystal glass are unveiled. Finally,
Au-del de la Transparence, presents the facets
of a prolific knowledge with masterpieces.
11 place des tats-Unis (16th).
m Klber, ina. tel: 01 40 22 11 00.
mon to sat: 10am-6.30pm, except tues, sun
and public hols. 5 rr: 3.50. Under 18s: free.
reservation recommended. www.baccarat.fr
muse du Vin
Former wine cellars in rue des Eaux are a delightful
place to find out more about the history of wine,
wine regions, and utensils. Oenology courses
and tasting sessions are also offered as an option.
rue des eaux. 5 square charles-Dickens (16th).
m Passy. tel: 01 45 25 63 26.
tues to sun: 10am-6pm. admission + a glass of wine
(under 18s: fruit juice) + audioguide: 11.90
rr: 9.90. Under 14s: free.
www.museeduvinparis.com
maison de Balzac
On the run from his creditors, Balzac took refuge
in the village of Passy in 1840. He spent seven years
of intensely productive writing in the garden level
of the house, rented in the name of M. de Breugnol.
The writer corrected La Comdie humaine here,
and wrote La Cousine Bette, etc.
47 rue raynouard (16th). m Passy.
tel: 01 55 74 41 80. Daily: 10am-6pm, except mon,
public hols, easter sun and Whit sun. Permanent
collections: free (except during temporary exhibition
times). www.balzac.paris.fr
le Parc des Princes Discover
the behind-the-scenes of PSG
Take a one-hour guided tour behind the scenes
of Pariss prestigious football club. Visit the VIP area,
changing rooms and trophy area of this legendary
stadium.
24 rue du commandant-guilbaud (16th).
m Porte-de-saint-cloud. tel: 32 75 (0.34/min).
Wed, Fri, sat: 10 rr: 5.
www.leparcdesprinces.fr and www.psg.fr
rue de Passy
A good place to browse for a fashionable new
wardrobe. For something to eat, stop off at Place
de Passy, with its covered market leading on to rue
de lAnnonciation and the church past delicatessens,
greengrocers
GuimarD facaDes
the castel branger was completed in 1898,
in rue La Fontaine. given the nickname castel
drang (crazy castle), this apartment block
is representative of Hector guimards artistic
style. He became the prominent exponent of
the art nouveau style. see his work in the 16th
arrondissement at numbers 14, 17, 19 and 21
rue La Fontaine, numbers 8, 10, 40, 60 rue agar,
Htel guimard, 120 and 122 avenue mozart, etc.
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surrounDinG area
10 km
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Paris
conTacT
Comit dpartemental du tourisme
des Hauts-de-Seine
8 place de La Dfense.
92974 Paris-La-Dfense cedex.
tel: 01 46 93 92 92. contact@tourisme92.com
www.tourisme92.com
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svres cit de la cramique
Pass
Unique in Europe, the porcelain factory has been
conserving and passing on its expertise since
the 18th century. Its collections include works
from all countries and all periods.
2 place de la manufacture. 92310 svres.
m Pont-de-svres. tel: 01 46 29 22 00.
Factory visit by appointment.
6 rr: 4.50. Under 25s and 1st sun of the month:
free. www.sevresciteceramique.fr
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muse du chteau de malmaison
Pass
Acquired in 1799 by Josphine Bonaparte, the Chteau
de Malmaison became the residence of the future
emperor and his wife and the seat of the French
government.
av. du chteau. 92500 rueil-malmaison.
rer a La Dfense grande-arche, then bus 258.
tel: 01 41 29 05 55. Daily except tues. contact for
opening times. 6. Under 18 to 25 yrs: 4.50.
18-25 yrs eU: free. www.chateau-malmaison.fr
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Domaine national de saint-cloud
On this estate there is no chateau but 460 hectares of
greenery for walking and cycling, a pedagogical farm
for children and also a museum retracing the history.
m boulogne Pont-de-saint-cloud.
tel: 01 41 12 02 90. Daily. Free for pedestrians.
contact for opening times and admission prices (cars).
18-25 yrs eU: free.
www.saint-cloud.monuments-nationaux.fr
La ferme du Piqueur:

Thousands of wonderful moments await you in
the Hauts-de-seine area. Within easy reach of
Paris by metro or bus, you will discover famous
people and fall in love with havens of greenery
and their inhabitants youll be amazed at
what there is!
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chteau de sceaux, muse
dle-de-france, Parc de sceaux
Jean-Baptiste Colbert, a minister of Louis XIV,
commissioned the greatest artists of the time to
make his residence fit for a king. Since 1937, the
chateau has housed the Muse de lle-de-France.
rer b Parc-de-sceaux.
museum: tel: 01 41 87 29 50. Daily, except tues.
3 rr: 1.50. Park: free.
www.domaine-de-sceaux.fr


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maison des Jardies
This former wine-growers house was transformed in
the 18th century into a country house and was home
to Balzac in 1838, who was fleeing his creditors, then
to Lon Gambetta in 1878, who came here to relax.
14 av. gambetta. 92310 svres.
tel: 01 41 12 02 90. contact for opening times.
5.50 rr: 4. 18-25 yrs eU: free.
www.monuments-nationaux.fr
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Albert-Kahn, museum and gardens
The banker Albert Kahn laid-out wonderful
gardens and created an exceptional collection
of 183,000 metres of film footage and
72,000 autochromes between 1909 and 1931.
10-14 rue du Port. 92100 boulogne-billancourt.
m boulogne Pont-de-saint-cloud.
tel: 01 55 19 28 00. Daily except mon. contact for
opening times. 3 rr: 1.50. Under 12s and
1st sun of the month: free. www.albert-kahn.fr
Hauts-de-seine
fasHion sHoWs
In January and July, Paris
stages dozens of haute couture
fashion shows that present the
spring-summer and autumn-
winter collections. It is not easy
to get a seat next to the happy
few alongside the catwalks.
However, the fashion shows
organized by Galeries Lafayette
each Friday, at 3pm, are free
and open to everyone.
www.galerieslafayette.com
And for even more information
on shopping and top fashion
designers, visit parisinfo.com.
a TasTe
FOR LUXURY
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Pariss reputation as
the capital of luxury is
carried high by perfumers,
jewellers, designers of
haute couture, antique
dealers and the large
auction houses like Drouot,
christies and sothebys.
not forgetting the artisans,
who create luxury goods
gold- and silversmiths,
trunk and suitcase makers,
leather craftsmen, saddlers
or artists in glassmaking
and more.
some stars
Idyllic decor, impeccable service,
illustrious guests upscale
hotels are not lacking in Paris!
Twenty-seven of them have been
rated five-star since the new
classifications in the rules and
regulations of the hotel industry
came into effect, and two of them
are rated four-star Luxe. Discrete
and efficient, the concierges
satisfy (almost) all the wishes
of their guests. The price of a
suite may leave you dreaming but
everyone can enjoy palace life
with a light snack or a drink.
More information on
parisinfo.com.
chic districts
To get a close look at Baccarat,
Cartier, Chanel, Christofle, Daum,
Dior, Guerlain, Herms, Lacroix,
Lalique, Saint Laurent or even
Vuitton, go along to the Champs-
lyses, avenue Montaigne, Saint-
Germain-des-Prs, the prestigious
Place Vendme and the equally
famous rue de la Paix.
Jewellery
Paris would not be Paris without
jewellery: The biggest names
unveil their wonderful creations
with the greatest respect for
French tradition. Here, a piece
of jewellery is a work of art that
will add sparkle to your outfits or
simply be a pleasure for the eyes.
antiques
village st-Paul (4th)
M Saint-Paul.
Tel: 01 48 87 00 65.
www.village-saint-paul.com
village suisse
78 av. de Suffren
54 av. de la Motte-Picquet (15th).
M La Motte-Picquet Grenelle.
Daily except Tues and Wed:
10.30am-7pm.
www.levillagesuisseparis.com
Well-being
benjalong thai
27 rue Saint-Sauveur (2nd).
M Raumur-Sbastopol.
Tel: 01 42 33 45 35.
www.benjalongthai.fr
Institute of traditional Thai
massage.
club med gym
www.clubmedgym.com
22 sport halls in Paris.
ergotonic
Tel: 06 62 89 43 75.
www.ergotonic.net
Massages by appointment
at your hotel.
Le cercle
12 rue du Faubourg-
Saint-Honor (8th).
Tel: 01 42 68 29 79.
http://lecercle-by-regineferrere.com
Upscale spa.
spa occitane
47 rue de Svres (6th).
M Svres-Babylone.
Tel: 01 42 22 88 62.
www.loccitane.fr
Skin care, traditional massages, etc.
ZZZ...Zen Le bar sieste
29 passage Choiseul (2nd).
M Quatre-Septembre.
Tel: 01 71 60 81 55.
www.barasieste.com
From Mon to Sat: 12pm-8pm.
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There is no escaping the fascination of
this legendary district, starting of course,
with the smile of Mona Lisa and the hieroglyphs
at the Place de la Concorde. Then, at the
Louvre, there is The Wedding Feast at Cana,
The Winged Victory of Samothrace, discovered
on the banks of the Aegean Sea and
The Lacemaker by Vermeer. Theres the Cour
Carre, the Grande Galerie, and the 175-metre
colonnade a brief history tour that continues
up to the gates of the lyse Palace.
And beyond, the voluted columns of the Grand
and Petit Palais, the Seine from the railings
of the Tuileries gardens, town houses in
avenue Gabriel, fashion designers in avenue
Montaigne, a few Picassos at the Orangerie.
Visitors will fall under the spell of the silky
bedroom of Jeanne Lanvin at the Decorative
Arts museum and the palace of the courtesan
Pava, a few steps from the rond point des
Champs-lyses. At the top of the avenue,
the futuristic vessel-like Drugstore is quite
impressive too. The 1918 and Liberation
parades, the cycles of the Tour de France,
the tanks of the 14 July, the celebrations
following the 1998 Football world Cup all
contribute to the making of a myth!
Concorde (8th)
Champs-lyses (8th)
Tuileries (1st)
Louvre (1st)
DonT miss
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Charles-de-Gaulle toile (lines 1, 2, 6) Champs-lyses Clemenceau (lines 1, 13)
Concorde (lines 1, 8, 12) Tuileries (line 1) Palais-Royal Muse-du-Louvre (lines 1, 7)
arc de Triomphe
and the Tomb of the
unknown soldier +
Pass
At the top of the Champs-lyses,
directly in line with the Arc du
Carrousel and the Arche de la
Dfense, is Napolons triumphant
antique arch. Commissioned in
1806 to celebrate the victories of
the Great Army, it was completed
in 1836. Its huge proportions
50 metres high and 45 wide are
decorated with fi ne sculpture by
Cortot and tex, along with Rudes
famous Marseillaise. The arch
became a national symbol.
A flame is rekindled each evening
at 6.30pm and the inscription
Here lies a French soldier, who
died for his country is written on
the tomb of an unknown soldier
laid to rest here in 1921.
Place du gnral-de-gaulle (8th).
m charles-de-gaulle toile.
tel: 01 55 37 73 77.
Daily. From 1 apr to 30 sept:
10am-11pm. From 1 oct-31 mar:
10am-10.30pm. open after
the parades on 8 may, 14 Jul
and 11 nov.
1 Jan, 1 may and 25 Dec: closed.
9.50 rr: 6. Under 18s,
18-25 yrs eU, 1st sun of
the month (nov to end mar): free.
www.monuments-nationaux.fr
champs-lyses
Between Concorde and toile,
is the emblematic section of a
perspective that extends from
the Louvre Pyramid to La Dfense.
The first steps of this glorious
way, an obligatory passage for
patriotic parades, were however
modest. Lined with undergrowth,
the avenue reached the current
site of Place de ltoile in 1724.
A fashionable place to walk, the
gardens were devastated at the
fall of the Empire. They regained
their splendour around 1840:
candelabras, fountains, creamy
pavilions, landscaping with
flowers and copses date from this
period of balls and theatres. It
was one hundred years later that
rapid development occurred when
affluence spread to the west of
?
did yOu knOw?
From the roof dominating place
de ltoile, twelve avenues
radiate outwards, some with
the names of victories
(Friedland, Ina, Wagram)
and generals of the Empire
(Carnot, Hoche, Klber,
Marceau). When the sun sets
under the Arch directly in line
with the Champs, it really
is a spectacular sight!
the capital. The avenue was then
adorned with prestigious palaces,
cafes and restaurant terraces
and cinemas joined today by
ready-to-wear fashion stores
and high-tech showrooms.
Everything can be found on
the Champs: films, dresses,
lunch, cotton and compresses,
racing cars, yoghurts and fresh
vegetables, books, CDs,
perfume from morning
to midnight, sometimes 24 hours
a day, often 7 days a week.
muse du louvre
+
Pass
The biggest museum in Paris,
and home of the Mona Lisa,
The Raft of the Medusa, and Venus
de Milo was, first and foremost,
the jewel in the crown of the
kings, emperors and republics
of France. From the sombre
late-12th century fortress to Pes
glass pyramid, inaugurated in
1989, many have reigned here
and practically everyone has
left their mark Renaissance,
Classic, First and Second Empire,
contemporary The Louvre,
a museum since 1793, houses
collections of Western art from
the Middle Ages to 1848, and
collections of ancient oriental,
Egyptian, Greek, Etruscan
and Roman civilizations which
preceded and influenced
them, graphic arts and Islamic
arts. At the end of summer 2012,
a new space devoted to Islamic
arts will open, displaying 18,000
works over an extra 2,800 m
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main entrance via
the pyramid (1st).
m Palais-royal
muse-du-Louvre.
tel: 01 40 20 53 17.
Daily: 9am-6pm, except tues,
1 Jan, 1 may and 25 Dec.
Wed and Fri: open until 10pm.
11. Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU,
under 26s (Fri late opening,
except exhibitions Hall napolon)
and 1st sun of the month: free.
exhibitions Hall napolon: 12.
combined ticket: 15. multimedia
guide (commentary of works
according to profile of visitor):
3/5.
www.ticketlouvre.fr
www.louvre.fr

Place de la concorde
Work began on Place Louis XV
in 1755. It broke with the tradition
of enclosed royal squares,
to open up the perspective to
the Tuileries gardens. The fine
mansion houses the Htel
de la Marine and the Htel
Crillon underlined the axis of the
statue of the monarch were
demolished after thirty years.
Place de la Revolution is where
Louis XVI, Marie-Antoinette,
Danton and Robespierre were
guillotined. However, Place de
la Concorde spells reconciliation.
Louis-Philippe sought a
monument that would cool
revolutionary and royalist
passions, which he found
in the 3,300-year-old Obelisk,
a gift from the pasha of Egypt.
Erected in 1836, its 23 metres
and 230 tons of pink granite took
four years to travel from Luxor!
Two fountains, embellished
with golden mermaids and fish,
enliven the grey, green and
golden dcor of the square.
Jardin des Tuileries
Statues populate the terraces,
the lawns and flowerbeds
laid out in the French style, the
copses and the areas around the
ornamental ponds: an academic
Spartacus on a marble pedestal
and the contemporary Welcoming
Hands, by Louise Bourgeois,
plus classical allegories and
Tinguelys tricolor. The green
Maillol bronzes emerge from
the labyrinth of hedges that
connect the Tuileries to the
Louvre. At the other end,
in a direct line with the great
axis, the garden opens out
spectacularly onto Concorde.
Lush greenery, games,
refreshment chalets, and
farniente lie between the two.

1st. m concorde.
lido de Paris +
The Clerico brothers bought the
Lido from Lon Volterra in 1946.
They renovated it and decorated
it in the most luxurious fashion.
They created the dinner-show
concept which has been copied
all over the world. At the Lido,
each revue was a roaring success
thanks to the quality of the
entertainment. Eventually,
the Lido became known
the world over.
116 bis av. des
champs-lyses (8th).
m george-v.
see p.106.

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?
did yOu knOw?
Uncovered by archaeological
excavations in 1985, the
foundations of the donjon and
the moat of the castle, built at
the gateway to the city, under
the reign of Philippe Auguste
(1180 to 1223), can be visited
in the medieval part of the
museum.
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Grand Palais
This impressive stone building, crowned with a
splendid metallic-framed glass roof, was constructed
for the Exposition Universelle in 1900. Architecturally
daring in its time, the Grand Palais hosts diverse
events under the great nave and four exhibitions
per year in the Galeries nationals. It also houses
the Palais de la dcouverte.
entrance to galeries nationales du grand Palais:
avenue du gnral-eisenhower (8th).
entrance to nave: avenue Pdt-Winston-churchill (8th).
m champs-lyses clemenceau.
tel: 01 44 13 17 17. opening times and rates vary.
www.grandpalais.fr
Petit Palais muse des Beaux-
arts de la Ville de Paris
Like its Grand neighbour, the Petit (little) Palais
is an example of the eclectic splendour of the
Exposition of 1900. The building alternates white
and coloured marble, moulding and garlands, painted
ceilings, mosaic flooring and opal stained-glass
windows around an interior garden. The citys Fine
Arts museum since 1902, the Petit Palais displays
collections of painting, sculpture and art objects
from antiquity to 1918. Amongst other marvels,
visitors will admire Greek amphora, orthodox icons,
Gothic ivories, Italian Madonnas, paintings by Rubens,
Saxe porcelain and blown-crystal glass vases.
av. Pdt-Winston-churchill (8th).
m champs-lyses clemenceau.
tel: 01 53 43 40 00. Daily: 10am-6pm, except mon,
public hols, easter sun and Whit sun.
thurs: open until 8pm during temporary exhibitions.
Permanent exhibitions free. www.petitpalais.paris.fr
muse de lorangerie
Pass
Built in 1852, the Orangery of the Tuileries soon lost
its fruit trees to become a storehouse, and a room
for examinations and dog competitions. Its destiny
became clearer when Monet chose it to house the
complete cycle of the Nymphas (Water Lilies) on
which he worked from 1914. Since its renovation,
the panels of a landscape of water lilies, weeping
willows, reflections of trees and clouds 2 metres
high, almost 100 long have regained their beauty
and meaning in daylight. This exceptional venue
also does justice to the collection of art dealer
Paul Guillaume of whom it was said the paintings
and statues whispered in his ear. And his Renoir,
Czanne, Rousseau, Modigliani, Marie Laurencin,
Matisse, Derain, Picasso, Soutine and Utrillo
paintings definitely reveal a certain flair.
Jardin des tuileries (1st). m concorde.
tel: 01 44 77 80 07. Daily: 9am-6pm, except tues,
1 may and 25 Dec. 7.50 rr: 5.
+ 2 for temporary exhibitions.
Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU, 1st sun of the month: free.
www.musee-orangerie.fr
studio Harcourt Paris
Established in 1934, the studio soon became
a place not to be missed for Pariss in-crowd.
Famous writers, painters, singers, sportsmen
and actors such as Marlene Dietrich, Salvador Dal,
Brigitte Bardot, Zindine Zidane and John Galliano
all came here to be photographed.
10 rue Jean-goujon (8th). m champs-lyses
clemenceau. tel: 01 42 56 67 67. visit with
commentary. www.studio-harcourt.eu
79
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did yOu knOw?
For 30 years, Monet placed his easel opposite
his water garden to capture the changes
in nature: the Nymphas cycle numbers
some 300 paintings!
muse Jacquemart-andr
Nlie Jacquemart was commissioned to paint
the portrait of douard Andr, the heir of a banking
family. They were to remain inseparable and devoted
their fortune to the collection exhibited in their
mansion, built in 1875. The magnificent reception
rooms, winter garden and private apartments are
decorated with Louis XV and Louis XVI furniture,
paintings by Boucher, Chardin and Fragonard and
treasures of the Italian Renaissance. The smoking
room is English with Hoppner, Lawrence and Reynolds.
The Flemish and Dutch masters of the 17th century,
led by Rembrandt, are displayed in the library.
158 bd Haussmann (8th). m miromesnil.
tel: 01 45 62 11 59. Daily: 10am-6pm.
10 rr: 8.50. Under 7s: free.
www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com
Palais-Bourbon
The Palais Bourbon, which has housed the Assemble
Nationale (the lower house of the French parliament),
was built in 1726 for Louise-Franoise, daughter
of Louis XIV and Madame de Montespan, the widow
of the Duc de Bourbon.
33 quai dorsay (7th). m assemble-nationale.
Proof of identity essential. admission and visit by
appointment by post 2 to 3 months in advance.
Free. www.assemblee-nationale.fr
les arts dcoratifs
This institute pursues the objectives it was given
at the outset, to promote what is both beautiful
and useful and groups together the Muse
Nissim-de-Camondo and the Muses des Arts
dcoratifs, de la Publicit, de la Mode et du Textile.
107 rue de rivoli (1st). m Palais-royal
muse-du-Louvre. tel: 01 44 55 57 50.
tues to sun: 11am-6pm. thurs: open until 9pm.
9 8. Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU: free.
www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr
muse des arts dcoratifs
Pass
A stroll through the nave and galleries is a wonderful
experience. The setting is all whiteness and airy
spaces with calligraphy quotations in red on the
walls. The riches of the Medieval and Renaissance
periods embellish the residence and testify to its
grandeur. From Henri IV to Louis XVI, it is pure
magnificence. Ebony and rosewood, classical ideals,
useful objects and philosophy all contribute to the
rich pomp of the salons. Bourgeois splendor triumphs
in the 19th century. Then come the sinuous curves
of art nouveau, the geometry of art deco, and
the industrial logic and functionalism of the 1950s,
before plastic and anti-conformism give way to
individualism and the desire for natural comfort.
The trend for the 21st century is predicted to be
low-key.
muse de la Publicit
Pass
The collection of posters (some of which date
from the 18th century), and press, film, and radio
advertisements showcase advertising in all its forms,
including a retrospective of Chinese posters, a tribute
to the pioneers of the advertisement, displays
of logos, the power of images from Man Ray to
Jean-Paul Goude, the epic story of the Nantais
biscuit and a Senegalese soldier on a box of cocoa.
These works cannot be on permanent display due
to their fragile nature and are thus presented in
temporary exhibitions only. However the multimedia
library is open to everyone.
muse de la mode et du textile
Pass
Silks, embroidery, printed fabrics, lace, tapestry
31,000 pieces in total present the history of textiles
from the 14th century onwards. Fashion is showcased
with a collection of outfi ts and accessories from
the 17th century to creations by Balmain, Chanel,
Courrges, Dior, Lanvin, Lacroix, Poiret, Saint Laurent,
etc. These works cannot be on permanent display
due to their fragile nature and so appear in temporary
exhibitions only.
muse nissim-de-camondo
Pass
In the first decade of the twentieth century, the
banker Mose de Camondo, a passionate collector
of 18th-century decorative arts, had a magnificent
mansion built on the edge of Parc Monceau, inspired
by the Petit Trianon at Versailles but equipped with all
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modern comforts. In his wood-panelled apartments,
he artfully displayed his collection. From the blue
salon to porcelain collections, he takes us from
Versailles to the table of Catherine II of Russia.
In 1936, the mansion became a museum.
A wonderful opportunity to visit an exceptionally
refined family residence.
63 rue de monceau (8th). m villiers.
tel: 01 53 89 06 50. Wed to sun: 10am-5.30pm.
closed mon and tues. 7.50 5.50.
18-25 yrs eU: free. www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr

chapelle expiatoire
Pass
Guillotined in 1793, Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette
were hastily buried in the Madeleine cemetery,
on the actual site of square Louis XVI. During
the Restoration, their remains were exhumed
and transferred to the Basilique de Saint-Denis.
Louis XVIII erected a funerary chapel, completed
in 1826, on the site of their first tomb. Laid out
as a Greek cross, it is decorated inside with angels,
fleurs-de-lis, an altar in white marble, and a sculpture
of Marie-Antoinette soutenue par la Religion, by Cortot.
29 rue Pasquier (8th). m saint-Lazare.
tel: 01 44 32 18 00. thurs, Fri, sat: 1-5pm.
and some public hols. 5.50 rr: 4.
Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU and 1st sun of the month
(from nov to mar): free.
www.monuments-nationaux.fr


Palais de la dcouverte
universcience
How does a light bulb light up? Do animals speak?
What is out there in space? To answer these
questions, scientist-mediators carry out spectacular
experiments before the public on four themes
(the Earth and the Universe, matter and energy,
mathematics, and living things), which provide
the focus for the permanent and temporary
exhibitions. And the planetarium is an invitation
to travel through the universe.
av. Franklin-D.-roosevelt (8th).
m champs-lyses clemenceau.
tel: 01 56 43 20 21. tues to sat: 9.30am-6pm.
sun and some public hols: 10am-7pm.
mon and some public holidays: closed.
8 rr: 6. Planetarium: (over 6s): 3 supplement.
www.palais-decouverte.fr

muse cernuschi
Philanthropic financier and aesthete traveller,
Henri Cernuschi (1821-1896) bequeathed the works
of art he had collected on his long travels together
with his mansion, at the edge of Parc Monceau to
the City. Rooted in the art and archaeology of ancient
China, from the Neolithic period to the 13th century,
the museum gives centre stage to a huge bronze
Buddha. Around this sage meditating opposite a bay
window inundated with light, are jade necklaces,
ceramics and much more.
7 av. velasquez (8th). m villiers.
tel: 01 53 96 21 50. Daily: 10am-6pm, except mon,
public hols, easter sun and Whit sun.
Permanent collections free.
www.cernuschi.paris.fr
Parc monceau
This 18th-century Anglo-Chinese folly was one of
the first irregular gardens designed like a cabinet
of outdoor curiosities. Amongst the lawns and play
areas, there remain some extravagances: the mock
antique ruins surrounding the ornamental pond,
a little bridge, a grotto, rocks and even an Egyptian
tomb covered with moss! The last folly of note
was the capture of a wolf, in 1972.
8th. m monceau.
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VisiTinG
THE CAPITAL
rollerBlaDinG
TriPs
Every week, free skating trips
are organized in the capital.
The rando-rollers on Sunday
is for families and beginners
and starts from Place de
la Bastille at 2.30pm
(www.rollers-coquillages.org).
The Friday evening tour is more
energetic and is for experienced
skaters. Unless the weather
is rainy, it starts at 10pm from
Place Raoul-Dautry, below the
Tour Montparnasse, and returns
around 1am in the morning
(www.pari-roller.com).
Hundreds of ways of
visiting Paris there is
the traditional way of
seeing Paris: visiting the
citys top sites and getting
around on foot and other
modes of transport whether
public or private. but there
are also less-well known
or offbeat itineraries and
sites to discover, literally
hundreds of ways of getting
around and seeing the city
in a new light.
Do you dream of following in
the footsteps of impressionist
or contemporary painters?
Discovering street art,
funerary art or sacred art?
touring india, the West indies
or china without taking a
plane? Would you like to know
everything about the fauna,
flora and statuary of parks and
gardens? go on an art nouveau
or art deco architectural
walking tour? Historical,
literary, cinematographic,
gastronomic, and other
themed walks? all types of
tours are possible! visits that
are guided, thematic, on
the water (see p.16), by bike,
on foot, by electric scooter,
on rollerblades, even in
the air: here are some ideas
for discovering another side
of Paris.
cultural visits
The profession of tour guide is
regulated in France by the law of
22 July 2009. Only holders of a
professional card are authorized
to give guided tours of exhibitions
and inside museums and
monuments. Having the services
of a tour guide is a guarantee
of quality and expertise. Guides
will also take you on walking,
cycling tours and elaborate
tours according to your wishes.
Whether for a group or an
individual, do not hesitate to
call on the professionals below,
all members of the tourist office
and listed on parisinfo.com,
and request the brochure Paris
se visite/Visiting Paris (full of
ideas for different ways of visiting
Paris) at our information centres.
More information on this
profession from the
Fdration nationale des
guides interprtes et
confrenciers (Fngic):
www.fngic.fr
other visits
There is more to visit in Paris than
the Louvre Museum and the Eiffel
Tower! Whether it is your first visit
to the capital or not, you will also
enjoy discovering other aspects
of the city visiting the behind-
the-scenes of theatres, shopping,
taking part in a treasure hunt
there is something for everyone!
Where to get
information?
Find information about guided
tours in Paris and its surroundings
in the brochure, Paris se visite/
Visiting Paris available at our
information centres and on
parisinfo.com.
Heritage walks
For those who prefer to explore
the city by themselves, the Paris
City Council has devised thematic
itineraries to download from its
website: Paris and its faubourgs,
On the trail of the Middle Ages,
and Parisian stained-glass
windows
www.paris.fr
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The south-east of Paris is undergoing a
renaissance. The disused former railway line
has been landscaped, and benches and skater
ramps installed. The futuristic portico of
the Ministry of Finance straddles the quay
and is refl ected in the water. Artistic creation
and rehearsals take place at the Frigos,
the former Paris-Ivry refrigerator station.
The tramway is back in service. The Diderot
University is open to students on the site of
the former Grands Moulins flour mills. La Cit
de la mode et du design (centre for fashion
and design) occupies the site of the former
bonded warehouses. A shopping centre now
flourishes on the paving stones of abandoned
covered markets, and pagodas dot 1970s
tower blocks. You wont believe your eyes!
Flowering palisades, workers housing
blocks standing shoulder to shoulder with
skyscrapers, organic vegetable gardens on
the waste ground of warehouses that back on
to smoked-glass offices. And to go from one
side of the Seine to the other, there are lush
green tunnels, bridges of spindle-shaped
steel, and an undulating footbridge between
the four book-shaped towers of Frances
national library the Bibliothque Nationale
de France and the contemporary cinema
Since the time of the medieval tanners on the
banks of the River Bivre, nothing has been
lost, everything has metamorphosed!
Viaduc des Arts (12th)
Place dItalie (13th)
Bercy (12th), Tolbiac (13th)
Bois de Vincennes (12th)
DonT miss
85
cit de la mode
et du design
Designed by the architects
Jakob+MacFarlane, the Cit
de la mode et du design
(ex-Magasins gnraux) seeks
to familiarize the public with
all types of fashion, beauty and
design. The site includes concept
stores, exhibition spaces and
the French fashion institute.
The 2,500 sq.m. terrace,
accessible to the public, offers
an exceptional view over the river.
on the corner of the pont
charles-de-gaulle.
34 quai-dausterlitz (13th).
m Quai-de-la-gare.
www.paris-docks-en-seine.fr
Bois de Vincennes
995 hectares of trees, lakes,
islands and grass! This royal
hunting ground, now Pariss largest
green space, is crisscrossed
with 32 km of car-free roads,
some 20 km of cycle paths and
a similar number of bridle paths.
And whats more, the wood also
has a zoo (closed until 2014 for
renovation work), a race track, an
ornithological reserve, a theatre,
a Buddhist temple, and more.
12th. m Porte-Dore.
Parc floral de Paris
City of Paris botanical
garden
In summertime, jazz and classical
music concerts fill the air of
the park, with its little vales,
water features, patios, pine
wood, cedars and beeches. In
the orchard, the Jardin Insolite
cultivates exotic species and
vegetables from the past, while
the hothouses of the Butterfly
garden are mostly home to
cocoons and chrysalises.
Dont miss the Dahlia garden,
the Valley of Flowers, etc.
esplanade du chteau (12th).
m chteau-de-vincennes.
tel: 01 43 43 92 95. 5.
www.paris.fr
chteau de Vincennes
Pass
The Capetian kings established
their hunting manor in the
surrounding forest in the 12th
century. Two centuries went by,
Charles V had a keep built here
along with ramparts and a Holy
Chapel. In the 17th century,
Louis XIII grew up here and
Louis XIV stayed here. Half
fortified castle, half classic
palace, it is a wonderful
ensemble!
av. de Paris. vincennes.
m chteau-de-vincennes.
tel: 01 48 08 31 20.
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St-Marcel
Campo-
Formio
Quai de
la Rape
Gare de Lyon
Place
Monge
Censier
Daubenton
Gobelins
Place
dItalie
Nationale
Chevaleret
Quai de
la Gare
Bercy
Montgallet
Reuilly-
Diderot
Cour St-milion
Bibliothque
Fr. Mitterrand
PALAIS
OMNISPORT
DE PARIS-BERCY
i
Place-ditalie (lines 5, 6 ,7) Gobelins (line 7) Gare-de-Lyon (lines 1, 14)
Cour-Saint-milion (line 14) Bercy (lines 6, 14)
arTs anD
crafTs
over 50 craft workers
and designers have their
ateliers under the vaults
of the viaduc des arts.
Wood, leather, copper,
bark, thread, gouache,
marble, moss, straw, clay,
paper, pigments, and
glass are transformed
before your eyes.
1 au 129 av.
Daumesnil (12th).
M Ledru-Rollin
Gare-de-Lyon.
Tel: 01 44 75 80 66.
www.viaducdesarts.fr
eventually give way to the former
residence of the Merovingian
kings, now the Jardin de Reuilly,
with its half-moonshaped lawn.
A footbridge, a tunnel, and that
just about sums up this stretch
of greenery that was once Pariss
circular railway line. In total,
4.5 km of pure delight.
12th. m bastille.
DiscoVer
Bibliothque nationale
de france site
franois-mitterrand
Once upon a time, there were
four towers in the shape of open
books, dominating the Seine on
a wooden square and set around
a garden. Since 1996, they have
been the repository for books
while the Haut-de-jardin and
Rez-de-jardin levels devote their
reading rooms red carpet, steel
and natural wood to all fields
of knowledge, printed material
as well as multimedia and many
fine exhibitions.
Quai Franois-mauriac (13th).
m bibliothque-
Franois-mitterrand.
tel: 01 53 79 49 49 (res, tours).
tues to sat: 10am-7pm.
sun: 1-7pm.
closed on public hols and two
weeks in sept. bibliothque
dtudes: 3.50 (accessible
from aged 16).
temporary exhibitions:
7/5. www.bnf.fr
la Butte-aux-cailles
This churchless village, which witnessed popular
uprisings in 1871, owes its name to a certain
Monsieur Caille, who planted vines here around 1540.
Although the libertarian spirit has disappeared with
time, good humour remains among the little houses
with flowers, and the small, cobbled alleyways such
as the rues de lEsprance, des Cinq-Diamants, and
de la Butte-aux-Cailles. Discover its small and co-op
run cafes with walls tattooed with poetic Miss.Tic
stencils.
Palais de la Porte-Dore
aquarium tropical
Pass
Opened in 1931 for the Exposition Coloniale,
the tropical aquarium allows the public to view
some 5,000 animals from over 300 different species,
ranging from primitive to electric fish, and from
the waters of Asia to the aquatic fauna of Africa and
South America, without forgetting the thrill of seeing
the crocodile pit, sharks and piranhas! Families
can enjoy a unique experience discovering aquatic
biodiversity within a grand art deco style setting.
293 av. Daumesnil (12th). m Porte-Dore.
tel: 01 53 59 58 60. tues to Fri: 10am-5.15pm.
sat and sun: 10am-7pm. closed mon, 1 may and 1 Jan.
4.50 - rr: 3. During exhibitions: 6.50 rr: 5.
www.aquarium-portedoree.fr

1 apr to 30 sept: 10am-6.15pm.
1 oct to 31 mar: 10am-5.15pm.
Daily, except 1 Jan, 1 may, 1 and
11 nov and 25 Dec. 8 rr: 5.
Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU and 1st
sun of the month (nov to mar): free.
www.monuments-nationaux.fr



Viaduc des arts and
promenade plante
The walk begins in mid-air, on
avenue Daumesnil. A staircase
leads up to the viaduct of a former
railway line. Brick mansions
?
did yOu knOw?
A 5-hectare working organic
farm, the Ferme de Paris
allows young city-dwellers to
explore country life through
the seasons with its meadow,
stables and farmyard.
route du Pesage (12th).
www.paris.fr
86
cHinaToWn in Paris
neon lights flash in chinese ideograms.
even Uncle sams fast food restaurant has
a pagoda roof! below the tower blocks on the
olympiades paved area, youll find guavas, silk
tunics, tonkinese soups and karaoke DvDs in
the shopping arcades. and here, new Year is
celebrated a good month after 1 January! since
the 1970s, dragon dances, kites, gongs and
flowers have been parading in the triangle of
avenue divry, avenue de choisy and boulevard
massena, which form the heart of this asian
quarter in the 13th arrondissement.
u
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Palais de la Porte-Dore
cit nationale de lhistoire
de limmigration
This national museum traces two centuries of
immigration in France. The permanent exhibition
Repres evokes departure, frontiers, the living
environment, exclusion, work, and the mutual
enrichment of cultures.
293 av. Daumesnil (12th). m Porte-Dore.
tel: 01 53 59 58 60. tues to Fri: 10am-5.30pm.
sat and sun: 10am-7pm. closed mon and some public
hols. 3/5 rr: 2/3.50. Under 26s and 1st sun
of the month: free. www.histoire-immigration.fr
la cinmathque franaise
muse du cinma
Pass
Optical instruments, cameras, magic lanterns,
legendary costumes, posters, documents from film
shoots and cult objects all make up the collection
of this museum. Film buffs will find the greatest
names in cinema including Charlie Chaplin, Fritz Lang,
Buuel and Alfred Hitchcock.
51 rue de bercy (12th). m bercy.
tel: 01 71 19 33 33. mon to sat: 12-noon to 7pm.
sun: 10am-8pm. tues, 1 Jan, 1 may, 3 weeks in aug,
25 Dec: closed. 5 rr: 4. Under 18s: 2.50.
www.cinematheque.fr
Bercy Village
Like the neighbouring Bercy Park, the village is
reserved for pedestrians. Themed restaurants,
cinema, shops for good wine and good living, Zen
culture for the mind and body occupy these former
19th-century wine storehouses with their pointed
roofs and stonework.
cour saint-milion (12th). m cour-saint-milion.
tel: 0 825 166 075 (0.15/min). Daily: 11am-9pm.
restaurants: 11am to 2 in the morning.
www.bercyvillage.com
muse national du sport
The museum showcases some 100,000 objects
related to sport: the poster for the first Football
World Cup in 1930, the gloves and dressing gown
of Marcel Cerdan, an 18th-century plate with
an illustration of royal tennis, medals from
the Albertville Olympic Games (1992), a racket
of Yannick Noah (1983), etc.
93 av. de France (13th). m bibliothque-
Franois-mitterrand. tel: 01 45 83 15 80.
tues to Fri: 10am-6pm. sat, 1st sun of the month
and public hols: 2pm-6pm. closed: mon, 25 Dec,
1 Jan and 15 aug. 4 rr: 2. Under 18s, 1st sun
of the month: free. www.museedusport.fr
Manufacture nationale des Gobelins,
de Beauvais et de la savonnerie
Around 1440, Jean Gobelin, a scarlet dyer came to
live on the banks of the River Bivre. Later in 1667,
Colbert grouped together tapestry, ebony, gold and
silversmith workshops to form the Manufacture
Royale des Meubles de la Couronne. At the rate of
1 sq.m. of tapestry per year and using the high warp
technique, tapestry-making goes on with respect
for this traditional art.
42 av. des gobelins (13th). m gobelins.
tel: 01 44 08 53 49.
Daily: 11am-6pm. closed: mon, 25 Dec, 1 Jan and
1 may. 6 rr: 4. Free: 1st sun of the month.
www.mobiliernational.culture.gouv.fr
?
did yOu knOw?
This village is 6,500-years-old! In 1990, the
building site for the renovation of the storehouses
and the creation of the park unearthed three oak
flat-bottomed sailing boats and thousands
of artefacts from the Neolithic period.
87
6
1
5 4
2
3
10 km
val-de-marne
Paris
There are plenty of ideas for places to go in
the Val-de-marne area. its proximity to Paris
means you can easily spend a day exploring
museums and losing all sense of time in
wonderful gardens
surrounDinG area
conTacT
Comit dpartemental du tourisme
du Val-de-Marne
16 rue Josphine-de-beauharnais.
94500 champigny-sur-marne. tel: 01 55 09 16 20.
cdt94@tourisme-valdemarne.com
www.tourisme-valdemarne.com
1
roseraie du Val de marne
The garden devised by Jules Gravereaux and
landscaped by douard Andr in 1899 boasts
3,177 varieties of old roses. A work of art that has
received the label of Remarkable Garden and been
included in the list of historical monuments.
rue albert-Watel. 94240 LHa-les-roses.
m Porte-ditalie, then bus 184.
tel: 01 43 99 82 80 (local council parks and gardens
department). From 4 may to 16 sept 2012: 10am-8pm.
3 rr: 1.50. Under 5s: free.
guided visits: contact for information.
www.roseraieduvaldemarne.fr
2
muse fragonard de lcole
Vtrinaire de maisons-alfort
Situated in the park of the prestigious cole Nationale
Vtrinaire de Maisons-Alfort, this cabinet of
curiosities presents a unique collection devoted to
pet animals: skeletons, moulds, natural anomalies
(cyclops, mermaids ) and the famous corchs of
Honor Fragonard (1732-1799).
7 av. du gnral-de-gaulle. 94700 maisons-alfort.
m cole-vtrinaire-de-maisons-alfort.
tel: 01 43 96 71 72. Wed, thurs: 2-6pm. W/e: 1-6pm.
7 with audioguide rr: 5. Under 18s,
18-25 yrs eU: free. http://musee.vet-alfort.fr/
3
The Marne river bends
There is nothing like a trip along the river for
discovering the exceptional natural beauty of the
Marne riverbanks. The guinguette (open-air cafes
with dancing) synonymous with local popular
culture and merriment, and Sundays at the waters
edge during the belle poque combine well with
water sports activities for nature enthusiasts.
4
exploradme
A museum for exploring the sciences, multimedia
and sustainable development and where it is
prohibited not to touch! You can start a tornado,
stick your shadow to the wall, etc.
18 av. Henri-barbusse. 94400 vitry-sur-seine.
m villejuif Louis-aragon, then bus 172.
tel: 01 43 91 16 20. contact for opening times.
6 rr: 4.50. www.exploradome.com
5
mac/Val
This amazing museum of contemporary art boasts
a rich collection of over 2,000 artworks that presents
the art scene in France from the 1950s to the present.
It is also a vibrant arts venue with exhibition spaces,
a cinema, a documentation centre and art workshops.
Place de la Libration. 94400 vitry-sur-seine.
m Porte-de-choisy, then bus 183.
tel: 01 43 91 64 20. tues to Fri:10am-6pm. sat, sun
and public hols: 12pm-7pm. closed: mon, 1 Jan,
1 may and 25 Dec. 5 rr: 2.50. Under 26s,
students, 1st sun of the month: free. www.macval.fr
6
march international de rungis
The leading fresh-food market in the world, Rungis
can be visited on the second Friday of each month
(except Aug), departing from the Place Denfert-
Rochereau (Paris), at 4.30 in the morning.
1 rue de la tour. bP 316. 94152 rungis cedex.
tel: 03 83 50 10 85. 80 (entrance fee and coach).
www.visiterungis.com
88
Paris air-Balloon
In addition to initiating passengers into the joys of flying in an aerostat
(according to weather conditions), the balloon is also an air-quality
indicator. An information space has been set up below the balloon
to explain the impact each of us has on the quality of the air.
M Javel, Balard. Flights daily: 9am until 30 min before closure of
park. 12/10 RR: 10/9/6/5. Under 3s: free. Exhibition: free.
www.ballondeparis.com
ouTDoor
CITY LIFE
VliB
A fleet of 20,600 self-service
bicycles, provided by the Paris
City Council, offers Parisians
and tourists all the pleasure of
free wheeling around the city.
30 towns and villages on the
outskirts of the capital are also
served by 300 stations.
www.velib.paris.fr
more than 450 parks and
gardens, 2,199 hectares
of municipal parks open
to the public, 3,700 trees
planted each year, over
300 kilometres of cycling
paths (600 between now
and 2014), an ever larger
number of pedestrian
areas all that for
relaxation and farniente!
in Paris, nature and culture
make a delightful mix.
one can enjoy listening
to openair concerts in
the parks and admire art
in the garden: fountains,
sculptures, statues from
all periods abound.
become more acquainted
with the French, and
english gardening styles,
botanical, picturesque,
and anglo-chinese
gardens, and the so
called Haussmanian, or
contemporary, parks.
then there is the surprising
richness and diversity of
Pariss fauna and flora
to discover!
Public gardens,
parks and woods
From the small public gardens
that dot each neighbourhood to
the huge woods of Boulogne and
Vincennes, one is never far from an
area of greenery in Paris. Closed
in the event of bad weather, parks
have different opening hours which
also vary according to the time of
year. Some lawns are prohibited
to the public, and intruders are
whistled off the grass by park
personnel!
choose your park:
modern at Andr-Citron,
Bercy and Clichy-Batignolles
(see p.49), romantic at Bagatelle
(see p.72), Monceau (see p.81) and
Montsouris (see p.58), the lively
parc de la Villette (see p.93) and
Parc Floral de Paris (see p.85), etc.
other parks and gardens
to discover:
Jardins dole champions
of ecology , Luxembourg and
Acclimatation, with their play
areas for children (see p.56 and
71), Atlantique on the roof of
the Montparnasse train station
(see p.57), the busy les Halles
(see p.33) or the tranquillity of
Palais-Royal (see p.40), the Jardin
des Plantes and its little zoo (see
p.23), the hothouses at Auteuil
(see p.72), Trocadro with its
fountains, etc.
Pedestrianized areas
These traffic-free areas are great
favourites with pedestrians.
The main pedestrian thoroughfares
are rues Daguerre (14th), de Lappe
(9th), de Levis (17th), Mouffetard
(5th), Montorgueil (2nd) and
cour Saint-milion (12th).
Some areas are also closed to
traffic on Sunday and public
holidays (as part of the initiative
Paris respire Paris breathes ,
90
Paris Treasure HunT
Every summer, this treasure hunt offers a discovery tour of the cultural
and historical heritage of Paris for Parisians and visitors, in a
team or as a family. The 2012 edition is accessible to people with
physical disabilities and is expected to draw 20,000 participants.
It will take place on Saturday 7 July, in the 3rd, 6th, 9th, 10th,
11th, 12th, 13th, 15th, 17th, 18th and 20th arrondissements and
in Saint-Ouen. Differents itineraries, one of which will be in English.
information: www.paris.fr
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Paris resPire (Paris BreaTHes)
The riverside expressways are closed to motor
vehicles on Sunday and public hols, from 9am to
5pm. Cyclists, walkers have 10 different areas
of Paris all to themselves, as well as the right bank
of the Seine voie G.-Pompidou, from the entrance
to the tunnel at the Tuileries (1st) to the Charles-
de-Gaulle bridge (12th) and the left bank from
the entrance quai A.-France (7th) to the exit quai
Branly (7th). information: www.paris.fr
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cf. box), neighbourhoods of the
Sentier (2nd), Mouffetard (5th),
Luxembourg (6th), la Roquette
(11th), Montmartre (18th),
rues des Martyrs (9th)
and Poteau (18th).
Theme parks
aquaboulevard de Paris
4-6 rue Louis-Armand (15th).
M Balard.
Tel: 01 40 60 10 00.
Mon to Thurs: 9am-11pm.
Fri: 9am-midnight.
Sat: 8am-midnight.
Sun and public hols: 8am-11pm.
Cash desks close at 9pm.
22/28. 3 to 11 yrs: 15/18.
Under 3s: not allowed.
www.aquaboulevard.fr
Leisure pool with water slides,
saunas, Jacuzzis for children
and adults.
aquarium tropical
(palais de la Porte-Dore)
293 av. Daumesnil (12th).
M Porte-Dore.
Tel: 01 53 59 58 60.
Tues to Fri: 10am-5.15pm.
Sat and Sun: 10am-7pm.
Closed: Mon.
4.50 RR: 3.
18-25 yrs EU: free.
www.aquarium-portedoree.fr
See p.86.
Jardin dacclimatation
Bois de Boulogne (16th).
M Les Sablons.
Tel: 01 40 67 90 82.
Apr to Sept: 10am-6pm.
Oct to Mar: 10am-7pm.
Park: 2.90, train: 2.70 (return).
RR: 50%. Under 3s: free.
www.jardindacclimatation.fr
See p.71.
mnagerie du Jardin des plantes
57 rue Cuvier (5th).
M Jussieu, Gare-dAusterlitz.
Tel: 01 40 79 37 94.
Daily: 9am-6pm.
Sun and public hols: 9am-6.30pm.
Winter: 9am-5pm.
8. 4-13 yrs: 6.
Under 4s: free.
www.mnhn.fr
See p.23.
on the outskirts of Paris
aquarium sea Life
Centre commercial international
Val-dEurope.
14 cours du Danube/Les Terrasses.
77700 Serris.
RER A Val-dEurope.
Tel: 01 60 42 33 66.
Daily: 10am-5.30pm.
16.
Under 12s: 12.50.
Under 3s: free.
www.sealife.fr
Discover the richness of marine
life and the importance
of protecting it.
Disneyland Paris +
See p.110.
Parc astrix +
60128 Plailly
Tel: 0 826 30 10 40 (0,15/min).
June, July, Aug: daily.
Apr, May, Sept, Oct, Nov, Dec:
contact for information.
44 3 to 11 yrs: 33.
Under 3s: free.
www.parcasterix.fr
New Pharaonic attraction in 2012!
Test the effects of the magic
potion, teach the very youngest
how to repel Roman chariots, etc.
chteau, jardins
and zoo de thoiry
78770 Thoiry.
Tel: 01 34 87 53 76.
Opening times and dates variable:
contact for information.
26.50. 3-14 yrs: 20.
Under 3s: free.
Closed: from 12 Nov to 1 Feb 2013.
www.thoiry.net
Discover the zoological garden,
castle and freely roaming animals
from the comfort of your own
car in Thoirys African reserve.

91
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Taking flight from the end of rue des Envierges,
on the high terrace of Belleville Park, above
Maison de lAir, you fly over four-storey Chinese
restaurants, city gardens and a schoolboys
huge blackboard on which Ben has written that
we shouldnt trust in words.
Next stop, the Canal Saint-Martin, where
a blue barge passes through a green lock
its a lengthy process. On the Ourcq, a rowing
boat races a kayak, and a graffiti-covered van
overtakes them on the quay. Call in at the
CENTQUATRE, rue dAubervilliers, for a novel
cultural adventure. Next stop, a 3,000 sq.m.
bamboo plantation, surrounded with lawned
areas you are in la Villette Park. Zigzagging
your way through the Jardin des Voltiges then
the Jardin des Dunes and Vents, youll find
pedal-driven windmills, weather vanes, kites
before you reach an enormous ball that reflects
the clouds the Gode!
A spatial odyssey on a giant screen
it definitely gives you an appetite. Choose
your menu: maf in Place Sainte-Marthe
and a Technicolor film? A slam session, soup
and kebabs at Mnilmuche? Curry, capoiera
dances and ragga hip hop performances?
Chilli with birds beak pepper and a theatre
bar? Tagine and a pop-electro concerto
and more.
Canal Saint-Martin (10th)
La Villette (19th)
Buttes-Chaumont (19th)
Belleville (20th)
DonT miss
93
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P
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H
H
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Colonel
Fabien
Bolivart
Gare
de lEst
Gare
du Nord
Botzaris
Porte
de Pantin
Danube
Hoche
Jourdain
Tlgraphe
St-Fargeau
Pyrnes
Belleville
Buttes-
Chaumont
Pr St-Gervais
Pl. des
Ftes
Jaurs
Stalingrad
Marx-Dormoy
Louis
Blanc
Chteau
Landon
La Chapelle
Simplon
Chteau Rouge
Marcadet-
Poissonniers
Barbs-
Rochechouart
Riquet
Crime
Ourcq
Laumire
Corentin
Cariou
Filles
du
Calvaire
St-Ambroise
Oberkampf
Parmentier
Temple
Chteau
dEau
Raumur-
Sbastopol
Arts et
Mtiers
Rambuteau
Les Halles
tienne
Marcel
Sentier
Gambetta
Pre Lachaise
Mnilmontant
Palais Royal
Muse du Louvre
Pyramides
Tuileries
Concorde
Quatre
Septembre
Opra
Madeleine
Auber
Havre-Caumartin
Chausse d'Antin
Grands
Boulevards
Bonne
Nouvelle
Poissonnire
Cadet
Porte de
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SAINT-
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MANOIR DE PARIS
MANOIR
DE PARIS
le cenTQuaTre
city of Paris artistic
establishment
The CENTQUATRE makes
art accessible for everyone
thanks to a resolutely popular,
contemporary and demanding
programme of events. The venue
is a lively one, with shops and
spaces devoted to amateur
artistic activities and childrens
events.
5 rue curial (19th).
m riquet.
tel: 01 53 35 50 00.
tues to Fri: 12pm-7pm.
sat and sun: 11am-7pm.
closed: mon.
www.104.fr
la Villette
In the 19th century, the commune
of La Villette was an industrial
centre. In 1867, a cattle market
and huge abattoirs were built on
the site. In 1974, their closure led
in the 1980s to its reconversion
into a cultural centre, symbolic of
the renewal of the East of Paris.
Parc de la Villette
The parks wide lawns crossed by
the Canal de lOurcq and dotted
with red pavilions are a popular
place to play ball, read or enjoy
the sounds of live percussion
In fine weather, people gather
to picnic and enjoy open-air
concerts and films. Scattered
around the four corners of the
perimeter: the Grande Halle, the
former Bourse aux Cuirs now the
Thtre Paris-Villette, the Znith
concert hall, an equestrian centre,
the big top of the Cabaret Sauvage,
a dragon slide, and more.
211 av. Jean-Jaurs (19th).
m Porte-de-la-villette,
Porte-de-Pantin.
tel: 01 40 03 75 75.
www.villette.com
grande Halle :

cit des sciences
et de lindustrie
universcience
Pass
Behind its steel and glass exterior,
this futuristic giant, surrounded
by water offers a multitude of
activities that make science and
technology fun and accessible.
Conferences, aquarium, 3-D
cinema, Cits des Enfants, des
Mtiers, de la Sant, exhibitions,
media library, planetarium,
workshops It is difficult
to fit everything in at one go!
30 av. corentin-cariou (19th).
m Porte-de-la-villette.
Belleville (lines 2, 11) Pyrnes (line 11) Buttes-Chaumont (line 7 bis) Botzaris (line 7 bis)
Porte-de-la-Villette (line 7) Porte-de-Pantin (line 5) Jaurs (lines 2, 5, 7 bis)
94 94
?
did yOu knOw?
From Port de lArsenal, as
well as from Port de Solfrino
(below the Orsay museum)
to Parc de la Villette, or the
other way round, cruises with
a commentary will take you
on a peaceful voyage through
the 4th, 10th, 11th and 19th
arrondissements (see p.16).
tel: 01 40 05 80 00.
individual reservations:
0 892 69 70 72 (0.34/min).
group reservations:
01 40 05 12 12.
tues to sat: 10am-6pm.
sun: 10am-7pm. 1 Jan, 1 may
and 25 Dec: closed.
explora exhibitions: 8 rr: 6.
Under 6s: free.
Planetarium (from 3 yrs): 3
supplement.
www.cite-sciences.fr
the cit des enfants
It offers two exhibitions
(2-7 yrs and 5-12 yrs) in the form
of interactive learning activities:
building a house, playing with
water in a recently-renovated
Cit. Even parents will love it!
8 rr and over 2s: 6.
www.cite-sciences.fr

Three spectacular
satellite sites
The Argonaute, a former naval
submarine; the Cinaxe with
a mobile projection room that
simulates a high-speed flight;
the sparkling silver Gode,
a 36-diameter stainless
steel ball with a 1,000 sq.m.
hemispheric screen that makes
for thrilling cinema.

the argonaute
tues to sat: 10am-6pm.
sun: 10am-7pm. 3. From 3 yrs.
www.cite-sciences.fr
the cinaxe
From 4 yrs.
tues to sun: film shows
lasting approx. 15 min
from 11am-5pm.
sch hols and some mon:
11am-6pm.
5.40 rr: 4.80.
the gode
26 av. corentin-cariou (19th).
m Porte-de-la-villette.
10.50 rr: 9.
Under 3s: not allowed.
www.lageode.fr
cit de la musique
muse de
la musique
Pass
Situated in the south of the
Parc de la Villette, the Cit de
la musique provides the widest
access to musical culture for
all, with concerts, a museum,
educational activities and
publications for adults and
children. The museum showcases
a collection of almost 1,000
objects (instruments, paintings,
sculpture and furniture) from
the 17th century to the present.
221 av. Jean-Jaurs (19th).
m Porte-de-Pantin.
tel: 01 44 84 44 84.
tues to sat: 12-noon-6pm.
sun: 10am-6pm.
8 rr: contact for information.
Under 26s: free entry to the
permanent collection.
www.citedelamusique.fr
Belleville

In the beginning there were
the sources, hence the names
of the streets rue de la Mare
(pond), rue des Rigoles (rivulets),
and wine fresh from the vines,
called piquette (cheap local wine).
In 1730, the Grand-Rue of the
village (rues de Belleville and
du Faubourg-du-Temple) were
paved. Carousing took place under
shady trees. From cheap eating
houses to popular dance halls,
every carnival was rounded off
with an extravagant parade down
the Courtille. In the 19th century,
people of modest means flooded
into the factories: misery
and workers movements went
hand-in-hand. The Armenians
arrived in 1918, Greeks in 1920,
German Jews in 1933, Spaniards in
1939 In Babelville, the whole
world mixes, except perhaps
the blackbird and song thrush
nesting in the heights of the park.
canal saint-martin
Extending over 4.5 km, of which
two are underground, it has linked
the Port de lArsenal to the
La Villette canal basin since
1825. Its course across working
class areas, punctuated with
locks, swing bridges, Venice-style
footbridges, and lined with
chestnut trees and squares,
inspired Georges Simenon, Lo
Malet and Marcel Carn in the
film Htel du Nord. Yes! It was
from the little iron bridge at the
Grange-aux-BellesVinaigriers
crossroads reconstructed
in the studio that Arletty
famously quipped to Louis Jouvet
Atmosphre. Not surprising,
serenading by the water and
supper have become an institution
here.
95
Bassin de la Villette
and canal de lourcq
Until the industrial decline of La Villette, after the
Second World War, wood, coal, fodder, and sugar
passed in transit along its long quaysides. Today,
they are the location for attractive cinemas, ptanque
players, cosy cafes to warm up in, benches in the
fresh air looking on to the lapping water, fishermen,
barge-theatres, a water sports centre in a reconverted
19th-century warehouse, etc. In the background youll
hear the cries of gulls and the referees whistle.
mnilmontant
Of all the Belleville hamlets this one is the most
famous, with its rough wine and guingette dance halls
that played host to Piaf, Chevalier, Trenet and others.
The old songs can still be heard in its winding streets
mixed with contemporary melodies: informal bars,
groovy apros, gypsy jazz or philosophical debates
at the cafe, colourful bazaars and tropical stalls,
trompe-loeil and artistic graffiti at the bend in rue
des Cascades or on rue de lErmitage, rickety small
houses and the red citadels of the affordable housing
built in the 1920s.
Quartier Jourdain
Also known as Haut-Belleville, the area around
the glise Saint-Jean-Baptiste, built in the Gothic
style in 1859, and a patisserie thats almost as old,
in rue du Jourdain, offers typical Parisian dishes
and quiet walks past hidden courtyards and artists
workshops opening onto flower gardens.
Parc des Buttes-chaumont
In 1860, the buttes (little hills) of the mont chauve
were still quarried for gypsum and blasted in the open
air. Seven years later, on the orders of Napolon III,
the steepest and most picturesque of the landscaped
parks was inaugurated. In the interval, titanic work
was carried out using dynamite to terrace and
reshape the landscape, creating waterfalls, a lake,
a grotto with fake stalactites, and an island of rocks
30-metres-high, crowned with the fanciful little
temple of Sibyls. From here, there are sweeping
DiscoVer
views across the horizon or down to the balletic black
swans and moorhens below.
19th. m Pyrnes, buttes-chaumont.
manoir de Paris
The first haunted museum in France, the Manoir
de Paris allows visitors to relive thirteen Parisian
urban legends (the crocodile in the sewers of Paris,
the bloodthirsty patissier, the phantom of the
Opra ) in the prestigious setting of a building
that has been classified as a historical monument.
Thrills guaranteed!
18 rue de Paradis (10th). m gare-de-lest.
tel: 06 70 89 35 87. opening times: contact for
information. 20 rr: 18/15.
www.lemanoirdeparis.fr
Quartier de la mouzaa
It is a working-class housing estate built between the
end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century!
Running down the side of the hill are some twenty
pedestrianized little streets, with delightful villas
laid out in a star shape from rue de Mouzaa and rue
Michel-Hidalgo. Red brick dominates but each of
the houses has its own character a pink facade
here, yellow tiles there, shutters with heart-shaped
cut-outs, tidy yards and wild gardens.
le Plateau
centre dart contemporain
Immaculate walls display contemporary art for
the public with exhibitions and an experimental
space that presents the works of artists in residence
in Paris. 50 metres away at 22, cours du 7
e
-Art,
the Antenne organises contemporary creation-related
educational events.
Place Hannah-arendt. corner of rue des alouettes
and the rue de carducci (19th).
m buttes-chaumont. tel: 01 76 21 13 41.
Wed to Fri: 2pm-7pm. sat, sun: 12-noon-8pm.
Free (except events).
www.fracidf-leplateau.com
c
o
s
m
o
P
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a
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P
A
R
I
S
96
1
Basilique cathdrale
de saint-Denis
Pass
The basilica is a cradle of gothic architecture. A royal
abbey in the Middle Ages, it became the official burial
place for Merovingian aristocrats, then Carolingian
and Capetian kings. From its illustrious past, the
basilica retains a unique ensemble of recumbent
statues and more than 70 sculpted tombs, including
those of Clovis, Franois I, Catherine de Mdicis
1 rue de la Lgion-dHonneur. 93200 saint-Denis.
m basilique-saint-Denis.
tel: 01 48 09 83 54. opening times: contact for
information. 7.50 rr: 4.50.
Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU: free.
www.monuments-nationaux.fr
2
stade de france
The stadium boasts 6 hectares of roofing, 45 km
of terraces and 9,000 sq.m. of turf, and hosts a round
of sporting events, concerts and shows. A visit
and museum trail recount all these great moments,
the behind-the-scenes and public areas.
93216 saint-Denis-la-Plaine. m saint-Denis
Porte-de-Paris. tel: 0 892 700 900 (0.34/min).
10am-6pm. tours daily, except during events:
10am-5pm. access gate g. contact for times.
15 rr: 10/12. Under 5s: free.
www.stadefrance.com
3
Puces de Paris-saint-ouen
This flea market brings together more than 1,500
second-hand and antique dealers on some 16 markets
and little streets, and attracts several million visitors
each year for its inimitable atmosphere and the
quality of its old furniture, gilded wood, glassware
and other unusual objects for bargain hunters!
m Porte-de-clignancourt, garibaldi.
tel: 01 40 12 32 58. sat: 9am-6pm. sun: 10am-6pm.
mon: 11am-5pm. www.parispuces.com. see p.99.
4
muse Pierre cardin
Referred to as an architect of clothing, a pioneer
and a fashion reference, Pierre Cardin gives us here
a selection of the most original and representative
creations of his career.
33 bd victor-Hugo. 93400 saint-ouen.
m mairie-de-saint-ouen. tel: 01 49 21 08 20.
mon, Fri, sat and sun: 2-5pm. 15.
5
muse de lair et de lespace
Pass
150 planes bring the history of aviation alive
for you, from the epic adventures of Louis Blriot,
or Saint-Exupry to the high-tech Mirage and Ariane
rockets. Climb aboard a Boeing 747 or Concorde.
Enjoy a visit with the family to the new Plante Pilote
exhibition area where children can learn all about
flying and space.
aroport de Paris Le bourget. 93350 Le bourget.
rer b Le bourget. tel: 01 49 92 70 00.
contact for opening times. closed: mon.
Free (except exhibitions). www.museedelair.org

conTacT
Comit dpartemental du tourisme
de la Seine-Saint-Denis
140 av. Jean-Lolive. 93695 Pantin cedex.
tel: 01 49 15 98 98.
info@tourisme93.com www.tourisme93.com
seine-saint-Denis
1
2
3 4
5
10 km
Paris
surrounDinG area
Just north-east of Paris the seine-saint-Denis
area possesses many treasures. There is
something for all tastes: sporting adventures,
relaxing shopping, a full programme of artistic
events, great outings with the family.
Take your pick!
meeTinG
THE PARISIANS
resPecT THe enVironmenT,
liKe THe Parisians
Sorting household rubbish, cleanliness of roads, keeping an eye on air
quality, developing non-polluting public transport, the City Councils
sustainable development week in Paris, the protection of the
environment is the responsibility of everyone. Visitors are also
invited to contribute to this initiative: wherever you are staying,
avoid wasting water and energy; use preferably public transport
to get around; whenever possible, sort your rubbish, etc.
information: www.paris.fr
You might know the capital.
but what do you know about
daily life here?
to enjoy all those little
unexpected pleasures,
there is nothing better than
local neighbourhood life in
markets, cafes, local buses
or the tramway share
in the leisure activities of
Parisians, their favourite
places and their moments
of relaxation with friends
or family and even get
to learn some French.
markets
In addition to permanent, often
covered markets, there are many
marchs (markets) that set up
their stalls several mornings
per week, especially towards
the end of the week, in every
local neighbourhood. People shop
here for the fresh and varied
range of produce, and the lively
and friendly atmosphere. You can
ask the fishmonger for advice,
taste samples of goodies that
will make you want to fill your
shopping basket and much more.
Some have a speciality: organic
at the Raspail and des Batignolles
markets and in rue Saint-Charles,
exotic products at Aligre, Barbs
and Belleville. Flowers, and
stamps (rond-point des Champs-
lyses), rare and second-hand
books (parc Georges-Brassens,
see p.59). Not forgetting the flea
markets! More information at
parisinfo.com.
covered markets
alsia
Rue de la Glacire
et de la Sant (14th).
M Glacire.
Wed: 7am-2.30pm.
Sat: 7am-3pm.
barbs
Bd de la Chapelle (18th).
M Barbs-Rochechouart.
Wed: 8am-1pm.
Sat: 7am-3pm.
See p.52.
bastille
Bd Richard-Lenoir (11th).
Between rue Amelot
and rue Saint-Sabin.
M Bastille.
Thurs: 7am-2.30pm.
Sun: 7am-3pm.
batignolles
96 bis rue Lemercier (17th).
M Brochant.
Tues to Fri: 8.30am-1pm
and 3.30pm-8pm.
Sat: 8.30am-8pm.
Sun: 8.30am-2pm.
Les enfants rouges
39 rue de Bretagne (3rd).
M Filles-du-Calvaire.
Tues to Sat: 8.30am-1pm
and 4pm-7.30pm
(until 8pm Fri and Sat).
Sun: 8.30am-2pm.
monge
Place Monge (5th). M Place-Monge.
Wed and Fri: 7am-2.30pm.
Sun: 7am-3pm.
saint-germain
4-8 rue Lobineau (6th).
M Mabillon.
Tues to Fri: 8.30am-1pm and
4pm-8pm. Sat: 8.30am-1.30pm
and 3.30pm-8pm. Sun: 8am-1.30pm.
ternes
8 bis rue Lebon (17th). M Ternes.
Tues to Sat: 8am-1pm and
4pm-7.30pm. Sun: 8am-1pm.
flower markets
le de la cit
Place Louis-Lpine (4th).
M Cit. Daily: 8pm-7.30pm
(until 7pm on Sun).
98
Place de la madeleine
East side of the church (8th).
M Madeleine.
Daily: 8am-7.30pm, except Sun.
Place des ternes
On the central reservation (17th).
M Ternes.
Wed to Sun: 8am-7.30pm.
animal markets
Place Louis-Lpine (4th)
M Cit.
Sun: 8am-7pm.
Quai de la mgisserie (1st)
M Pont-Neuf.
Daily: 10am-7pm.
flea markets
The puces (flea markets) at the
portes (gateways) to Paris are a
paradise for those who like to hunt
around for antiques, the curious,
vintage fans and those who enjoy
hunting for a bargain.
At Saint-Ouen, more than
1,500 exhibitors on some fifteen
or so markets offer a large choice
of clothes, unusual objects and
highquality antiques. Montreuil is
top for knick-knacks, second-hand
bikes, small items of furniture and
secondhand clothes. The march
de Vanves (400 antiques dealers)
is essentially a secondhand
market and overflows with old
toys, paintings and advertising
objects and more.
Porte de montreuil
Av. de la Porte-de-Montreuil (20th).
M Porte-de-Montreuil.
Sat to Mon: 7am-7.30pm.
www.paris.fr
Porte de saint-ouen
Av. de la Porte-de-Clignancourt
(18th). M Porte-de-Clignancourt.
Sat: 9am-6pm. Sun: 10am-6pm.
Mon: 11am-5pm.
Association des Puces de Paris
Saint-Ouen:
Tel: 01 40 12 32 58.
www.parispuces.com
meeTinG Parisians
If you are already familiar with the classic sights in Paris and are
curious about Parisian-style living, then we suggest that you go
along and meet Parisians in their local neighbourhoods to share
a few pleasant moments with them, their leisure time and their
favourite addresses. Details on parisinfo.com.
m
e
e
t
i
n
g

t
h
e

P
a
r
i
s
i
a
n
s
ouTDoor cinema fesTiVal
Every summer, a giant screen is set up on the grass
of the Triangle in the Parc de la Villette for a season
of free films shown in their original version.
At nightfall, people enjoy getting together to picnic
on the grass before the start of the film. From
25 Jul to 26 Aug, Parisians and visitors can embark
on a journey with the 2012 edition, whose theme
is Metamorphosis.
information: www.villette.com
E
V
E
N
T
99
Office de Tourisme de Saint-Ouen:
Tel: 01 40 11 77 36.
www.st-ouen-tourisme.com
See p.96.
Porte de vanves
Porte de Vanves, Porte Didot.
Av. Georges-Lafenestre and
Av. Marc-Sangnier (14th)
(W/e: 7am-2pm).
http://pucesdevanves.typepad.
com/
galerie cristo
33-41 rue Paul-Bert.
93400 Saint-Ouen.
Tel: 01 40 11 05 16.
www.galeriecristo.com
Antique Chinese furniture
and objects at the heart of
the Saint-Ouen flea market.
Do you speak french?
Would you like to improve your
French and learn more about
French culture? Contact language
schools which will help make
this language (reputed to be
difficult) easier. Some schools
will even help you to arrange
your language stay. More
information on parisinfo.com.
Smile, youre being
filmed!
Take advantage of a free ride on
a magic carpet to crack jokes at
Parisians. It all lasts 3 minutes
and is filmed in a studio. If you
want to, you can take the DVD
(29.90 ) away with you to add
to your holiday souvenirs.
Paris magic souvenirs
4 bd de Clichy (18th).
Tel: 09 53 37 96 17.
Daily: 11am-11pm.
www.parismagicsouvenirs.com
auToliB
Why not take the plunge
and do as the Parisians by
renting a 100% electric car,
freely available throughout
Paris and 45 locations in the
le-de-France region? This is a
new service offered by the Paris
City Council and has a range
of advantageous price options.
www.autolib.eu
P
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Mix accordion, a musette waltz and the
oompahpah-pahs of the Firemens Ball.
Take a tightrope walker in midair from under
the cupola of the Cirque dHiver. Throw in a
sandwich and liqueurs from a pre-war cafe on
rue de la Main-dOr, some shiny souvenirs of
oldtime trades boiler makers, scrap-metal
merchants, and matchstick sellers and thats
the first third.
Next, take a parade of demonstrators marching
and chanting from the column at the Bastille
to the statue with its Phrygian bonnet at
Rpublique. Incorporate several revolutions,
powder and canons.
Finally, the last third: spice with a pinch of
Brazil, lemon, cane sugar, Cap Vert, salsa
and tapas, one after the other. Sprinkle with
showrooms and fashionable spots, soup stores,
wi-Fi, fruit juice, and make-up. Season with
plush sofas, silver dance floors, moleskin wall
seats and the soft lighting of inner-rooms and
glean some glam rock, jungle, disco remix,
high-spirited DJs, and alternative labels.
Do not shake the cocktail is self-activating!
Rpublique (10th)
Bastille (11th)
Oberkampf (11th)
Pre-Lachaise (20th)
101
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Brguet-
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Chemin Vert
Sully-Morland
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St-Sbastien-
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Filles
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STE-MARGUERITE
250 m
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BIBLIOTHQUE
DE LARSENAL
LA GAT
LYRIQUE
Gambetta (lines 3, 3 bis) Filles-du-Calvaire (line 8) Rue-Saint-Maur (line 3)
Voltaire (line 9) Parmentier (line 3)
DonT miss
Place de la Bastille
In the 14th century, an eight-
towered fortress was built here
to defend the royal city. However,
the city quickly expanded and
the Bastille lost its military role.
It became a prison, the cells of
which symbolised the arbitrary
nature of royal power.
Six hundred rioters, mostly from
the Faubourg Saint-Antoine,
stormed it on 14 July 1789, and
at the cost of one hundred deaths,
they set free six prisoners.
The fortress was demolished
soon afterwards, and the legend
built. In the centre of the square,
the Colonne de Juillet, crowned
by a winged figure of Liberty,
commemorates the revolutionary
days of 1830 that also set alight
this rebellious neighbourhood.
opra Bastille
opra national de Paris
Inaugurated in Place Bastille
on 14 July 1989, it has brought
ballets and orchestras to the
industrial East, to form the Opra
national de Paris in tandem
with the Palais Garnier. This
imposing building by Carlos Ott
has a modern elegance about it:
state-of-the-art acoustics and
technology, integrated dcor
and costume workshops, etc.
Performances or guided visits
provide the perfect opportunity
to marvel at the blue granite,
pear wood from China, and
2,700 black velvet seats in the
great auditorium, the Monde
by Niki de Saint Phalle and
Jean Tinguely at the bottom
of the central staircase.
Place de la bastille (12th).
m bastille.
tel: 0 892 89 90 90 (0.34/min).
www.operadeparis.fr
Place de la Rpublique
The squares huge dimensions
were drawn up in 1854, at
the convergence of the new
Haussmanian boulevards.
Its creation severed the boulevard
du Temple from its most lively
section, nicknamed the boulevard
of crime in reference to the
melodramas played out in
its many theatres. Among
the allegories of Liberty,
Equality and Fraternity, a nine
and a half metre-high bronze
Marianne was erected at the
centre of the square. Draped
with a classical toga and leaning
on the Tables of Law, she
brandishes an olive branch and
will get a new makeover between
now and 2013 for the delight
of passers-by.
cimetire
du Pre-lachaise
This huge city of the dead owes
its name to Pre de La Chaise,
the confessor of Louis XIV, who
lived on this hill. Opened in 1804,
the cemetery retained the little
pathways, undulating topography,
lime trees and chestnut trees
of the former Jesuit domain.
But that did not entice Parisian
families to bury their dead in this
disreputable area. It took the
transfer of Hlose and Ablard,
and Molire and La Fontaine in
1817 to reverse the trend. From
then onwards, a fashionable craze
was to transform it into a mossy
hillside museum of funerary art.
Countesses, black cats, Gothic
chapels and famous people
Apollinaire, Chopin, Colette,
luard, Kardec (the father of
Spiritism), Jim Morrison, Musset,
Piaf, Proust, Oscar Wilde weave
a thousand tales that will capture
your imagination and set you
dreaming.
16 rue du repos (20th).
m Pre-Lachaise.
Daily, except public hols.
102
DiscoVer
areas for fashion and streets
for partying
around bastille
In rue de Charonne and rue Keller, the shop
windows of fashion designers vie with each other
in colour: orange, turquoise blue, candy pink ... the
neighbourhood is also a favourite of neo-punk Lolitas,
fans of vintage, mangas and tattooing. At the end of
the day, bars ring the bell for happy hour. Towards
rue de la Roquette, there is a concentrated cocktail
of Latino apro bars, pulsing restaurants, lounge
cafes and euphoric dance floors.

a few steps away from rpublique
The bustling crossroads of rue Oberkampf and rue
Saint-Maur, as well as rue Jean-Pierre-Timbaud,
teem with big crowded bistros and bars with live
music and with dancing. In this little area, youll find
music and everything you could want to nibble, sip,
whistle and mix right through the night.
Pavillon de larsenal
information, documentation and
exhibition centre for urban design and
architecture in Paris and metropolitan
Paris
The permanent exhibition Metropolitan Paris and its
projects is a multimedia, bilingual display thats also
suitable for children. Images, landmarks, interactive
terminals, and a giant computerized model present
the capital from the origins of the city to projects
for the future. The decor on the first floor changes
three times a year! Under the aegis of architectural
experts, the centre adapts completely to the theme
exhibited. And as it is always a fine show, visitors
enjoy prolonging their visit in the bookshop.
21 bd sully-morland (4th).
m sully-morland, bastille. tel: 01 42 76 33 97.
tues to sat: 10.30am-6.30pm. sun: 11am-7pm.
admission free. www.pavillon-arsenal.com
?
did yOu knOw?
In May 1871, at the end of
Bloody Week, the Communard
rebels from working class
areas, entrenched in the
cemetery, launched their last
offensive on Versaillais.
The 147 survivors were shot
onsite and thrown into a ditch.
Around the Federalists wall,
several monuments built
with stones from the original
walls pay tribute to the
victims of Nazi concentration
camps.
fauBourG
sainT-anToine
this has been a traditional area for woodworking
crafts since the 15th century! Furniture shops
are still scattered along rue du Faubourg
saint-antoine. in and around a maze of poetic
names the toile-dor and bel-air courtyards,
the alleyways of cheval-blanc and bonne-graine
lacquerers, gilders and upholsterers carry
on traditional savoir faire. some of the
workshops are now occupied by new
professions under the old shop signs.
la Gat lyrique
The Gat lyrique explores digital culture in all its
forms: music, cinema, theatre, dance, the visual arts,
design, etc., through a varied and eclectic programme
of concerts, shows, film screenings and talks.
3 bis rue Papin (3rd). m raumur-sbastopol.
tues to sat: 2pm-8pm. sun: 2pm-6pm and evenings
depending on programming. closed: mon.
www.gaite-lyrique.net. see p.105.
march daligre
Already in the 18th century, the market supplied
the Faubourg Saint-Antoine with vegetables
and pork products. It is one of the most lively
and mouth-watering markets. The covered Beauveau
market boasts regional products like tomatoes
from Provence, beef from the Limousin, goats cheese
from the Charolais, and much more. The surrounding
outdoor market offers shellfish and seafood, exotic
products, second-hand goods, light-hearted songs,
and fruit and flowers at unbeatable prices at the end
of the morning.
between rue du Faubourg-saint-antoine
and rue de charenton (12th). tues and Wed: 9am-1pm
and 4pm-7.30pm. thurs to sat: 9am-1pm.
closed: sun and mon.
muse du fumeur
From the cigars of the Maya gods to peace pipes, from
Dutch smoking dens to oriental hookas, the smoking
museum presents a practice as old as mankind.
Sacred, diabolic, and refined, the history of smoking
is recounted through short briar pipes, rustic snuff
boxes, Chinese opium pipes, and posters by Mucha.
7 rue Pache (11th). m voltaire. tel: 01 46 59 05 51.
Daily: 12.30-7pm, except sun, mon, 1 may, 1st week
of Jan and 1st three weeks of aug, 25 Dec.
5 rr: 3. www.museedufumeur.net
la maison rouge fondation
Antoine-de-Galbert
Contemporary art collector Antoine de Galbert set up
the headquarters of his foundation in a former factory.
He named it maison (house) so people would feel
at home. It offers three major monographic or
thematic exhibitions each year, complemented
with talks, a bookshop and a restaurant.
10 bd de la bastille (12th). m bastille, gare-de-Lyon.
tel: 01 40 01 08 81. Wed to sun: 11am-7pm.
thurs: open until 9pm. 1 Jan, 1 may, 25 Dec: closed.
7 rr: 5. Under 13s: free.
www.lamaisonrouge.org

cirque de la Porte des lilas
A short walk from the Serge Gainsbourg Garden,
a new circus school has opened its doors as part
of the urban redevelopment scheme at the
Porte-des-Lilas. Classes are available for children
and adults alike and the venue also programmes
shows. Contact for more information.
La dalle aux chapiteaux. m Porte-des-Lilas (20th).
www.paris.fr
la maison des mtallos
City of Paris cultural establishment
Firstly a factory, then a place for the manufacture
of wind-instruments, the Maison des Mtallos has
been converted into a place for professional and
amateur performance and the exchange of expertise.
94 rue Jean-Pierre-timbaud (11th). m couronnes.
tel: 01 48 05 88 27. 14 rr: 10, 8, 5.
www.maisondesmetallos.org
Pavillon de lermitage
The only Regency-style Parisian folly, built by
the Duchess of Orlans, the daughter of Louis XIV.
148 rue de bagnolet (20th). m Porte-de-bagnolet.
tel: 01 40 24 15 95. Fri and sat: 2-5pm.
From christmas hols to beginning mar: closed.
3 rr: 2. www.pavillondelermitage.com
103
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music
AND SHOWS
104
With 150 theatres, 3 opera
houses, 120 show and
concert halls, some thirty
cafe-theatres, and the
conservatories and venues
of associations, Paris has
a highly-charged agenda
of shows and concerts, etc.
all year round, artists from
all over the world come
to perform on legendary,
intimist, alternative,
permanent or improvised
stages. there is something
for everyone. revues and
musicals, ballets, operas,
one-man comedy shows,
contemporary theatre
and more.
the music is also eclectic.
international stars, rising
stars or amateurs fill the
stadiums, auditoriums
or tiny back-rooms of
local bars, for classical
or contemporary concerts.
Young people also have
their own programme.
circus, magic and puppet
shows, theatre and stories
for children can be found
everywhere, especially
during the school holidays.
show and theatre
venues, and circuses
batofar
Opposite 11 quai
Franois-Mauriac (13th).
M Bibliothque-F.- Mitterrand.
Tel: 01 53 60 17 00.
www.batofar.org
bercy
8 bd de Bercy (12th). M Bercy.
Tel: 0 892 390 100 (0.34/min).
www.bercy.fr
cirque national alexis gruss
Pelouse de Saint-Cloud
Bois de Boulogne (16th).
M Porte-de-Saint-Cloud.
Tel: 01 45 01 71 26.
www.alexis-gruss.com
cit de la musique
221 av. Jean-Jaurs (19th).
M Porte-de-Pantin.
Tel: 01 44 84 44 84.
www.cite-musique.fr
See p.94.
Folies bergre
32 rue Richer (9th).
M Cadet.
Tel: 0 892 68 16 50.
www.foliesbergere.com
gat lyrique (La)
3 bis rue Papin (3rd).
M Raumur-Sbastopol.
www.gaite-lyrique.net
See p.104.
olympia
28 bd des Capucines (9th).
M Opra, Madeleine.
Tel: 0 892 68 33 68 (0.34/min).
www.olympiahall.com
opra bastille
opra national de Paris
Place de la Bastille (12th).
M Bastille.
Tel: 0 892 89 90 90 (0.34/min).
www.operadeparis.fr
See p.101.
Palais garnier
opra national de Paris
Place de lOpra (9th).
M Opra.
Tel: 0 892 89 90 90 (0.34/min).
www.operadeparis.fr
See p.37.
salle Pleyel
252 rue du Faubourg-
Saint-Honor (8th).
M Ternes.
Tel: 01 42 56 13 13.
www.sallepleyel.fr
thtre du chtelet
1 place du Chtelet (1st).
Tel: 01 40 28 28 40.
www.chatelet-theatre.com
thtre mogador
25 rue de Mogador (9th).
M Havre-Caumartin.
Tel: 0 820 88 87 86 (0.12/min).
www.mogador.net
thtre national de chaillot
1 place du Trocadro (16th).
Tel: 01 53 65 30 00.
www.theatre-chaillot.fr
thtre de la ville
2 place du Chtelet (4th).
M Chtelet-les-Halles.
Tel: 01 42 74 22 77.
www.theatredelaville-paris.com
fTe De la musiQue, 21 June
Since 1982, the beginning of summer has been
celebrated with music until late into the night.
Professional and amateur musicians take to
the streets, squares, gardens, churches, bars
and clubs, etc., of Paris to give free concerts.
The press and Internet publishes a comprehensive
programme.There are always huge concerts
and itinerant musicians at Bastille, Rpublique
and Place Denfert-Rochereau.
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106
Zenith
211 av. Jean-Jaurs (19th).
M Porte-de-Pantin.
www.zenith-paris.com
Cabarets
crazy Horse Paris (Le) +
12 av. George-V (8th).
M Alma Marceau, George-V.
Res: 01 47 23 32 32.
www.lecrazyhorseparis.com
Le Double Fond,
le caf-thtre de la magie
1 pl du March Sainte-Catherine (4th).
M Saint-Paul.
Tel: 01 42 71 40 20.
www.doublefond.com
Happy Days
23 rue Saint-Marc (2nd).
M Bourse.
Tel: 01 42 96 81 00.
www.happydaysparis.com
Lido de Paris (Le) +
116 bis av. des Champs-lyses (8th).
M George-V.
Tel: 01 40 76 56 10.
www.lido.fr
See p.78.
moulin rouge (Le)

+
82 bd de Clichy (18th).
M Blanche.
Tel: 01 53 09 82 82.
www.moulinrouge.com
See p.48.
Paradis Latin (Le)
28 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine (5th).
M Cardinal-Lemoine.
Tel: 01 43 25 28 28.
www.paradislatin.com
See p.24.
village russe
21 quai dAusterlitz
1 place Augusta-Holmes (13th).
M Quai-de-la-Gare.
Tel: 01 45 86 37 06.
www.villagerusse.com
Zbre de belleville (Le)
63 bd de Belleville (11th).
M Belleville.
Tel: 01 43 55 55 55.
www.lezebre.com
Jazz
caveau de la Huchette (Le)
5 rue de la Huchette (5th).
M Saint-Michel.
Tel: 01 43 26 65 05.
www.caveaudelahuchette.fr
Duc des Lombards (Le)
42 rue des Lombards (1st).
M Chtelet.
Tel: 01 42 33 22 88.
www.ducdeslombards.com
new morning (Le)
7-9 rue des Petites-curies (10th).
M Chteau-dEau.
Tel: 01 45 23 51 41.
www.newmorning.com
Petit Journal montparnasse (Le)
13 rue du Cdt-Mouchotte (14th).
M Montparnasse Bienvene.
Tel: 01 43 21 56 70.
www.petitjournalmontparnasse.com
Petit Journal saint-michel (Le)
71 bd Saint-Michel (5th).
M Cluny-la-Sorbonne.
Tel: 01 43 26 28 59.
Programme
and tickets
Programmes of events are given
in the general and cultural press,
and by the Pariscope and the
LOfficiel des spectacles. Tickets
can be purchased at ticket desks
at the venue on the day of the
show, or, preferably, in advance.
Tickets may also be purchased
from specialist agencies,
the Theatre Kiosk (tickets for
the same day sold at -50%),
or from the Fnac and Virgin stores
or even on parisinfo.com.
cultival
42 rue des Jeneurs (2nd).
M Bourse.
Tel: 0 825 05 44 05 (0.15/min).
www.cultival.fr
Kiosque thtre (Le)
(the theatre Kiosk)
Kiosque Madeleine.
Opposite no. 15 place de
la Madeleine (8th). M Madeleine.
Kiosque Montparnasse.
In front of the station entrance (15th).
M Montparnasse.
Kiosque Ternes.
In the middle of the Place
des Ternes (17th). M Ternes.
Tues to Sat: 12.30pm-7.45pm.
Sun: 12.30pm-3.45pm.
www.kiosquetheatre.com
Paris eventicket
Tel: 01 46 47 66 03.
www.pariseventicket.com
starlight
Tel: 0 899 700 760
(1.35/call then 0.34/min).
www.starlight-europe.com
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Tempted by an excursion? Then leave Paris
behind for a moment to visit the surrounding
le-de-France region. with nine royal towns,
the le-de-France is a land of chateaux
a tapestry of brick and slate titles, interlacing
of stucco, intricate hedging and elaborate
garden water features. whether historic
or artistic, these trips are always a delight
for the eyes.
In the 19th century, steam trains offered
painters luminous landscapes on the outskirts
of Paris. Follow them! Renoir set up his easel
at Chatou, Van Gogh at Auvers-sur-Oise, and
other no less-famous painters passed along
the banks of the Marne. It is still a place for art.
Events and festivals, music, dance and theatre
attract an ever larger public. And the region
has something for everyone with theme parks
and entertainment all year round.
Seine-et-Marne (77)
Yvelines (78)
Essonne (91)
Hauts-de-Seine (92)
Seine-Saint-Denis (93)
Val-de-Marne (94)
Val-dOise (95)
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DonT miss
chteau
de Versailles +
Pass

This symbol of the absolute power
and glory of Louis XIV was nothing
more than a modest hunting
lodge built for Louis XIII, until
Louis XIV had it renovated in 1661
by his architect Le Vau. Still not
sufficiently grand, the Sun King
commissioned further extensions
and embellishments, notably
the Grand Appartement du Roi,
and the fabulous Hall of Mirrors.
The Queens Bedroom can be seen
just as Marie-Antoinette left it in
1789. Visitors can also discover
her private estate a haven of
intimacy and simplicity compared
to the baroque splendours of
the chateau and which includes
the Thtre and Hameau de la
Reine (a mock farm), the Petit
Trianon, the dairy, an English
garden, and more. The inventory
of the chateaus treasures is
innumerable, and extends to the
French-style gardens designed
by Le Ntre and the Grand Trianon
built for Madame de Maintenon.
rP 834. 78000 versailles.
tel: 01 30 83 78 00.
Daily except mon, 1 Jan, 1 may,
25 Dec and official ceremonies.
1 apr to 31 oct: 9am-6.30pm.
1 nov to 31 mar: 9am-5.30pm.
15 rr: 13 (including access
to temporary exhibitions).
Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU: free.
marie-antoinettes estate
and chteaux de trianon:
10 rr: 6.
Pass: chateau and park
and gardens: 18 in high
and low seasons.
25 during the grandes eaux
musicales or Jardins
musicaux days in high season.
www.chateauversailles.fr
chteau de
Fontainebleau
Pass
Fond of hunting here, the kings
of France built a manor house,
which was embellished by
thirty-four successive kings
over eight centuries, to become
the grandiose Chteau de
Fontainebleau in the midst
of a huge forest. Between
the Cour dHonneur and the
Jardin de Diane, one goes from
Renaissance rooms to the
apartment of Napolon I, from
?
did yOu knOw?
A visit to Versailles is more
than just a visit to the
chateau Special events and
shows are also on the agenda:
Grandes Eaux Musicales,
Grandes Eaux Nocturnes,
Ftes de Versailles at the
Neptune fountain, Versailles
Off Not forgetting the
Bartabas Equestrian Show
Academy!
state apartments to the Chinese
museum of the Empress Eugnie.
Ornately decorated and boasting
exceptional pieces of furniture,
the Chteau de Fontainebleau
is today one of the few French
chateaux to be entirely furnished.
77300 Fontainebleau.
tel: 01 60 71 50 60/70.
Daily, except tues, 1 Jan, 1 may
and 25 Dec.
apr to sept: 9.30am-6pm.
oct to mar: 9.30am-5pm.
10 rr: 8 (inc. temporary
exhibitions).
www.chateaudefontainebleau.fr



chteau
dauvers-sur-oise
At the heart of Auvers-sur-Oise,
the multimedia tour at the Chteau
dAuvers Voyage au temps des
Impressionnistes takes you on
the trail of the great impressionist
painters, who marked the history
of this village: Daubigny, Pissarro,
Czanne, Monet, Van Gogh.
rue de Lry.
95430 auvers-sur-oise/
cergy-Pontoise.
tel: 01 34 48 48 48. tues to sun.
1 Apr to 30 Sept: 10.30am-6pm.
1 Oct to 31 Mar: 10.30am-
4.30pm.
13.50. 6-18 yrs: 9.40.
Under 6s: free.
www.chateau-auvers.fr
Disneyland

Paris +
Its a fact children are not the only
ones to enjoy parades, shows,
stores, themed restaurants,
magical hotels, and giant
attractions and rides. Travelling
through the five different
imaginary countries of the park,
there are many surprises in store:
the buccaneers in Adventureland,
the chateau of Sleeping Beauty in
Fantasyland, Nemos submarine,
the 36-metre high Space Mountain,
a 13-floor plummeting drop in
the Tower of Terror At the Walt
Disney Studios park youll meet
your favourite stars and will even
be able to get into their skin.
To celebrate its 20th birthday,
Disneyland

Paris has a new

evening show thats not to be
missed under any circumstances:
Disney Dreams

!
77777 marne-la-valle.
rer a marne-la-valle chessy.
tel: 0 825 30 60 30 (0.15/min).
ticket prices subject
to modification.
1 day/1 park: 61; 3-11 yrs: 55.
1 day/2 parks: 74; 3-11 yrs: 66.
www.disneylandparis.com

Disneyland Paris
express
Disneyland Paris Express
transports you to the very heart
of magical Disneyland

Paris
for a very reasonable price. Travel
on board an air-conditioned coach
from the Gare du Nord, Opra,
Madeleine or Chtelet and benefit
from a fast-pass ticket allowing
entry to the park(s).
1 park: 76 rr: 59.
2 parks: 86 rr: 69.
www.disneylandparis-
express.com
chteau de
Vaux-le-Vicomte
Three geniuses of the
17th century the architect
Le Vau, the painter and sculptor
Le Brun and the landscape
gardener Le Ntre combined
their talents so well to create this
site that Louis XIV subsequently
commissioned them to work on
the Chteau de Versailles. The
view of the dome, the painted
decors and hangings in the
Salon des Muses, the borders
in the French-style garden, its
ornamental ponds and fountains
are spellbinding. And the candlelit
visit well, that goes without
saying!
77950 maincy.
tel: 01 64 14 41 90.
Daily: from 17 mar to 11 nov,
22 Dec to 6 Jan 2013 and from
16 mar onwards. closed: 25 Dec
and 1 Jan. 16 rr: 13.
Under 6s: free. shuttle service
from Paris and melun.
www.vaux-le-vicomte.com
For half-day sightseeing-trips
outside Paris in the Hauts
de- seine, the val-de-marne
or seine-saint-Denis
dpartements see p.74,
p.88 and p.96.
110
?
did yOu knOw?
Every Sunday and public
holiday, from April to October,
a direct train operates
between Paris-Gare du Nord
and Auvers-sur-Oise.
?
did yOu knOw?
In the Oise, less than one
hour from Paris, the Chantilly
estate with its chateau, Muse
Cond, park, gardens, grand
stables, etc. is open to the
public and is one of the jewels
of French heritage.
Domaine de chantilly
Pass
tel: 03 44 27 31 80.
Daily, except tues.
www.domainedechantilly.com
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DiscoVer
Villa savoye
Pass
This villa revolutionized the traditional conception of
a house. White and smooth on a green lawn, it applies
the main principles of Le Corbusier: free-standing
pillars, roof garden, free facade, and long windows.
82 rue de villiers. 78300 Poissy.
tel: 01 39 65 01 06. Daily except mon, 1 may, 1 nov,
11 nov, 25 Dec to 1 Jan. From 1 mar to 30 apr, from
1 sept to 31 oct: 10am-5pm. From 2 may to 31 aug:
10am-6pm. From 2 nov to 28 Feb: 10am-1pm and
2-5pm. 7.50 rr: 4.50.
Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU: free.
www.monuments-nationaux.fr
Domaine de chamarande
Invited each year to the (17th century) chateau
and its 98-hectare landscaped park, contemporary
creation is revealed in all its forms, with exhibitions,
dance, music and more.
38 rue du commandant-maurice-arnoux.
91730 chamarande. tel: 01 60 82 52 01. Free.
www.chamarande.essonne.fr
medieval city of Provins
Visitors come here to admire the ramparts of
the medieval city, the former capital of the counts
of Champagne and a market town, which is today
a Unesco world heritage site. One goes away dazzled
by the falconry and cavalry demonstrations
and by the fantastic battles between knights.
office de tourisme de Provins. tel: 01 64 60 26 26.
www.provins.net
chteau de maisons
Pass
A listed monument since 1914, this chateau, built
by the architect Franois Mansart between 1632 and
1646, is a model of the French style of architecture:
magnificent facades, elegant proportions, high
chimneys, etc. In 1777, the Comte dArtois brother
of Louis XVI became the owner of the estate and
had work carried out there until he ran out of money.
After the Revolution, the chateau was sold and bought
many times before being purchased by the State
in 1905 to save it from demolition.
2 av. carnot. 78600 maisons-Laffitte.
tel: 01 39 62 01 49.
From 15 may to 14 sept: 10am-12.30pm and 2-6pm.
From 15 sept to 14 may: 10am-12.30pm and 2-5pm.
Daily, except tues, 1 Jan, 1 may, 1 and 11 nov
and 25 Dec. 7.50 rr: 4.50.
Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU and 1st sun of the month
(nov to may): free. www.monuments-nationaux.fr
chteau de champs-sur-marne
Pass
It regularly plays host to the shooting of period
films (including Marie-Antoinette by Sofia Coppola
in 2005) This example of classic architecture
boasts refined interiors: rocaille decor, fine furniture,
as well as, painted wooden panelling by Christophe
Huet the painter of animals admired by
the marquise de Pompadour. The French-style
formal gardens are wonderful.
Domaine national de champs-sur-marne.
31 rue de Paris. 77420 champs-sur-marne.
tel: 01 60 05 24 43. chateau closed for restoration
until 2013. Free admission to park.
www.monuments-nationaux.fr
Chteau de Rambouillet
Pass
Situated in the middle of a wonderful estate
of woodland, water features, islands and gardens,
the Chteau de Rambouillet was originally a royal
residence, before attracting several French
presidents who organized hunting parties here
or summer holidays. Franois I, who loved to hunt
died here, Louis XIII, like Louis XV and Louis XVI
(and many others ) commissioned major work
here. For example, the Queens Dairy under
Louis XVI for Marie-Antoinette or the Bergerie
Nationale, the Ermitage or the Shell Cottage.
78120 rambouillet. tel: 01 34 83 00 25.
From 1 apr to 30 sept: 9.50am-12-noon and 1.50-6pm.
From 1 oct to 31 mar: 9.50am-12-noon and 1.50-5pm.
Daily, except tues, 1 Jan, 1 may, 1 and 11 nov,
and 25 Dec. 8.50 rr: 5.50.
gives admission to the chateau, the Laiterie de
la reine and the chaumire aux coquillages.
Under 18s, 18-25 yrs eU, and 1st sun of the month
(nov to may): free.
www.monuments-nationaux.fr
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Each monument, theme or place is listed alphabetically.
inDex
A
Abbaye royale du Val-de-Grce (Ancienne) ................ 24
Air et de lEspace (muse de l) ................................ 96
along the water ............................................16
American church (The) ............................................. 67
animal markets ............................................99
Another Paris .......................................................... 24
antiques ......................................................75
Aquaboulevard de Paris ........................................... 91
Aquarium Sea Life ................................................... 91
Arc de triomphe ....................................................... 77
architecture and Heritage ...............................25
Architecture et du patrimoine (cit de l) .................. 67
Archives nationales (centre historique des)
Muse de lhistoire de France ............................... 33
Arnes de Lutce ..................................................... 24
Argonaute (The) ....................................................... 94
Arme (muse de l) ................................................. 64
Arsenal (port de l) ................................................... 14
Art et dhistoire du judasme (muse d) ................... 32
art galleries .................................................61
Art moderne de la Ville de Paris (muse d) .............. 66
artistic creation ............................................60
artists studios ..............................................60
Arts asiatiques Guimet
(muse national des) ............................................... 66
Arts dcoratifs (Les) ................................................ 80
Arts et Mtiers (muse des) ..................................... 31
Autolib ................................................................... 99
B
Baccarat (muse) .................................................... 73
Balzac (maison de) .................................................. 73
Barbs (march) ...................................................... 52
bars ............................................................34
Bassin de la Villette ................................................ 95
Bastille ................................................................. 102
Beaubourg ............................................................... 30
Beaux-arts (cole nationale suprieure des) ............. 57
Belleville ................................................................. 94
Bercy Village ........................................................... 87
Bibliothque nationale site Franois-Mitterrand .... 86
Bibliothque nationale site Richelieu .................... 42
Bois de Boulogne ..................................................... 71
Bois de Vincennes ................................................... 85
Booksellers ............................................................. 13
Bourdelle (muse) ................................................... 58
Bourse de Paris (palais Brongniart) .......................... 42
boutiques ....................................................44
Bridges of Paris ....................................................... 13
Butte-aux-Cailles (la) .............................................. 86
Butte Montmartre .................................................... 47
C
cabarets .................................................... 106
cafes ...........................................................56
Canal de lOurcq ...................................................... 95
Canal Saint-Martin .................................................. 94
Carnavalet histoire de Paris (muse) ..................... 31
Cardin (muse Pierre) .............................................. 96
Cartier-Bresson (fondation Henri-) ........................... 56
Cartier pour lArt contemporain (fondation) ............... 56
Catacombes ............................................................ 59
caterers .......................................................53
CENTQUATRE (Le) .................................................... 93
Cernuschi (muse) ................................................... 81
Champ-de-Mars ...................................................... 63
Champs-lyses ...................................................... 77
Chapelle expiatoire .................................................. 81
Chteau dAuvers-sur-Oise ..................................... 110
Chteau de Champs-sur-Marne .............................. 111
Chteau de Fontainebleau ...................................... 109
Chteau de Maisons .............................................. 111
Chteau de Malmaison (muse du) .......................... 74
Chteau de Rambouillet ........................................ 111
Chteau de Sceaux, muse dle-de-France .............. 74
Chteau de Vaux-le-Vicomte .................................. 110
Chteau de Versailles ............................................ 109
Chteau de Vincennes ............................................. 85
Chtelet (thtre du) ............................................... 31
Chinatown ............................................................... 87
Choco-Story Le muse gourmand du Chocolat ....... 40
Cimetire de Montmartre ......................................... 48
Cimetire du Montparnasse ..................................... 58
Cimetire du Pre-Lachaise ................................... 102
Cinaxe (The) ............................................................ 94
cinema .................................................35 99
Cinmathque franaise muse du Cinma ........... 87
circuses ........................................... 103 104
Cirque de la Porte des Lilas ................................... 103
Cit de la mode et du design .................................... 85
Cit de la musique ................................................... 94
Cit des enfants ...................................................... 94
Cit des sciences et de lindustrie La Villette ........ 93
Cit nationale de lhistoire de limmigration ............. 87
Cluny (muse de) muse national
du Moyen ge........................................................... 22
Cognacq-Jay (muse) .............................................. 33
Comdie-Franaise .................................................. 40
Conciergerie ............................................................ 20
cooking lessons ...........................................53
covered arcades ...........................................38
covered markets ...........................................98
cruises ........................................................16
culture and museums ....................................68
Curie (muse) Institut du radium .......................... 58
D
Dapper (muse) ....................................................... 72
Delacroix (muse Eugne-) ...................................... 57
Department stores ........................................44
Dinner-cruises ..............................................16
Disabled people ............................................. 9
Discos .........................................................34
Disneyland Paris ............................................ 91 110
Disneyland Paris Express ........................................ 110
Domaine de Chamarande ....................................... 111
Domaine de Chantilly ............................................. 110
Domaine national de Saint-Cloud ............................. 74
Duty-Free ..............................................................45
E
gouts de Paris (Les) ............................................... 67
Eiffel Tower ............................................................. 63
environment (respect the) ..............................98
rotisme (muse de l) ............................................. 51
Espace Dal ............................................................. 48
toiles du Rex (Les) Grand Rex (Le) ....................... 40
european Heritage Days .................................26
events programme ............................... 35 106
Exploradme ........................................................... 88
F
Fashion and shopping ....................................44
Fashion shows ..............................................75
Fauna and flora ....................................................... 14
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Fines food stores ..........................................53
Flea markets .........................................96 99
Flower markets ............................................98
Fragonard (Perfume museums) ................................ 42
Fragonard cole Vtrinaire
de Maisons-Alfort (muse) ....................................... 88
Franc-Maonnerie (muse de la) .............................. 52
Free admission in museums ...........................68
Fumeur (muse du) ................................................ 103
G
Gainsbourg (Maison de Serge) .................................. 58
Gat lyrique (La) .................................................... 103
gardens .......................................................90
gay discos and bars ......................................34
Gode (The) ............................................................. 94
Gobelins, de Beauvais et de la Savonnerie
(manufacture nationale des) .................................... 87
good food guide ............................................53
gourmet capital ............................................53
Grand Palais ............................................................ 79
green design ................................................61
Grvin ..................................................................... 40
Guimard (facades) ................................................... 73
H
Halle Saint Pierre Art Brut Art Singulier
Art contemporain Populaire ...................................... 52
Halles (Forum des) .................................................. 33
Harcourt Paris (Studio) ............................................ 79
Hauts-de-seine area .....................................74
Herbe (muse en) .................................................... 42
Heritage walks .............................................82
Hippodrome dAuteuil .............................................. 71
Hippodrome de Longchamp ...................................... 71
Histoire naturelle (Musum national d) ................... 23
Historic streets .............................................26
Homme (muse de l) ............................................... 66
Htel de Ville .......................................................... 30
Hugo (maison de Victor) ........................................... 29
I
le-de-France ............................. 74 88 96 108
le de la Cit ............................................................ 19
le Saint-Louis ......................................................... 19
infomobi ..................................................................9
Institut de France .................................................... 57
Institut du monde arabe .......................................... 22
Invalides (htel des) ................................................ 64
J
Jacquemart-Andr (muse) ...................................... 80
Jardin Atlantique ..................................................... 57
Jardin dAcclimatation ..................................... 71 91
Jardin des Halles ..................................................... 33
Jardin des plantes ................................................... 23
Jardin des serres dAuteuil ....................................... 72
Jardin des Tuileries ................................................. 78
Jardin du Luxembourg ............................................. 56
Jardin sauvage Saint-Vincent ................................... 50
Jardin Tino-Rossi .................................................... 14
Jazz .....................................................................106
Jewellery .....................................................75
Jourdain (quartier) ................................................... 95
Junot (avenue) ........................................................ 52
K
Kahn (Albert-), museum and gardens ....................... 74
Kiosque Thtre (Le) (the Theatre Kiosk) ................ 106
L
LAdresse Muse de la Poste .................................... 57
La Villette ............................................................... 93
Language schools .................................................... 99
Le Corbusier (fondation) .......................................... 73
Landre (villa) ......................................................... 52
Lettres et Manuscrits (muse des) ........................... 57
Libration (muse de lOrdre de la) ........................... 64
Lido de Paris ................................................. 78 106
Louvre (muse du) ................................................... 78
114
Lunch-cruises ..............................................16
Luxury .........................................................75
Luxembourg (muse du) .......................................... 56
M
MAC/VAL ................................................................. 88
Madeleine (glise de la) .......................................... 38
Magie (muse de la Curiosit et de la) ..................... 33
Manoir de Paris ....................................................... 95
Maillol (muse) Fondation Dina-Vierny .................. 67
Maison des Jardies .................................................. 74
Maison des Mtallos (La) ....................................... 103
Maison Rouge
Fondation Antoine de Galbert ................................. 103
March international de Rungis ............................... 88
Marine (muse national de la) .................................. 67
markets ................................................53 98
March dAligre ..................................................... 103
markets/specialist shops ..............................60
Marmottan-Monet (muse) ...................................... 72
Marne River bends ................................................... 88
Maxims (muse) ..................................................... 42
Mdaille-Miraculeuse (chapelle
Notre-Dame-de-la-) ................................................ 59
meeting the Parisians ....................................98
Mmorial du marchal Leclerc de Hautecloque
et de la Libration de Paris muse Jean Moulin ..... 58
Mnagerie du Jardin des plantes ...................... 23 91
Mnilmontant .......................................................... 95
metro .......................................... 25 34 120
Mode et du Textile (muse de la) .............................. 80
Monnaie de Paris ..................................................... 59
Montmartre (muse de) ........................................... 50
montmartre wine harvest ...............................53
Moreau (muse Gustave-) ........................................ 50
Moulin de la Galette ................................................ 52
Moulin Radet ........................................................... 52
Moulin-Rouge

............................................. 48 106
Mouzaa (quartier de la) ........................................... 95
museums (national and city of Paris) ..............68
music ........................................................ 104
musique (fte de la) .................................... 106
Musique (muse de la) ............................................ 94
N
night transport ..............................................34
Nissim-de-Camondo (muse) ................................... 80
Noctilien ................................................................. 34
Notre-Dame de Paris ............................................... 19
nuit blanche ................................................61
nuit des muses (museum night) ...................26
O
Observatoire de Paris .............................................. 59
Odon ..................................................................... 56
Opra Bastille Opra national de Paris ................ 101
Orangerie (muse de l) ............................................ 79
Orsay (muse d) ..................................................... 55
outdoor art ...................................................61
outdoor cinema festival .................................99
outdoor city life ............................................90
outlets ........................................................45
P
Palais Bourbon (Assemble nationale) .................... 80
Palais de la Dcouverte Universcience .................. 81
Palais de la Porte-Dore Aquarium tropical ... 86 91
Palais de Tokyo contemporary creation ................. 66
Palais Galliera muse de la Mode
de la Ville de Paris .................................................. 67
Palais Garnier Opra national de Paris .................. 37
Palais-Royal ............................................................ 40
Panthon ................................................................ 20
Panthon bouddhique .............................................. 66
Paradis Latin .................................................. 24 106
Parc Astrix ............................................................. 91
Parc Clichy-Batignolles Martin-Luther-King .......... 51
Parc de Bagatelle .................................................... 72
Parc de la Villette .................................................... 93
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Parc de Sceaux ........................................................ 74
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont ...................................... 95
Parc des Princes Discover
the behind-the-scenes of PSG ................................. 73
Parc Floral de Paris ................................................. 85
Parc Georges-Brassens ............................................ 59
Parc Monceau ......................................................... 81
Parc Montsouris ...................................................... 58
Paris air-ballon .............................................90
Paris, capital of creation ...............................61
Paris, city of lights .......................................35
Paris convention and visitors bureau .......... 7 9
Paris illuminates Paris ..................................35
Paris museum Pass .......................................68
Paris-Plages (Paris beaches) .........................17
Paris respire (Paris breathes) .......................91
Paris shopping book .....................................44
Paris Story ! ............................................................ 42
Paris treasure hunt .......................................91
Parisian nights ..............................................34
Parisnightlife.fr ............................................35
Parks ...........................................................90
Pavillon de lArsenal .............................................. 102
Pavillon de lErmitage ............................................ 103
Pedestrianized areas .....................................90
Pniche du Cercle de la Mer .................................... 14
Petit Palais (muse des Beaux-arts
de la Ville de Paris) ................................................. 79
Picasso (muse) ...................................................... 30
Pigalle .................................................................... 48
Pinacothque de Paris ............................................. 42
Place de Clichy ........................................................ 50
Place de la Bastille ............................................... 101
Place de la Concorde ............................................... 78
Place de la Contrescarpe ......................................... 24
Place de la Madeleine ............................................. 37
Place de la Rpublique .......................................... 101
Place Denfert-Rochereau ......................................... 59
Place des Abbesses ................................................. 51
Place des Victoires .................................................. 38
Place des Vosges .................................................... 29
Place du Chtelet .................................................... 31
Place du Tertre ........................................................ 48
Place Vendme ........................................................ 38
Places of workship ........................................26
Plans-Reliefs (muse des) ....................................... 64
Plateau centre dart contemporain (le) .................. 95
Pompidou (Centre) ................................................... 29
Poupe (muse de la) .............................................. 33
Private mansions (htels particuliers) ............25
Promenade plante ................................................. 86
Promotrain .............................................................. 50
Provins (medieval city of) ...................................... 111
Publicit (muse de la) ............................................ 80
Puces de Paris-Saint-Ouen .............................. 96 99
Pyramide du Louvre ................................................. 78
Q
Quai Branly (muse du) ............................................ 64
Quartier des Batignolles .......................................... 51
Quartier latin ........................................................... 20
R
Racecourses ............................................................ 71
Rpublique ............................................................ 102
restaurants .................................................53
Rodin (muse national) ............................................ 64
Roland-Garros (stade) Tennis (muse
de la Fdration Franaise de) ................................. 72
rollerblading tours .......................................82
Roseraie du Val de Marne ........................................ 88
Rue de Passy ........................................................... 73
Rue Mouffetard ....................................................... 24
S
Sacr-Cur (basilique du) ....................................... 47
Saint-Antoine (faubourg) ....................................... 103
Saint-Denis (basilique cathdrale) ........................... 96
Saint-Eustache (glise) ........................................... 32
116
Saint-Germain-des-Prs .......................................... 55
Saint-Laurent (Fondation Pierre-Berg Yves-) ........ 73
Saint-Sulpice (glise) .............................................. 58
Sainte-Chapelle ...................................................... 20
Sainte-Genevive ..................................................... 24
sales ...........................................................45
seine-saint-Denis area ..................................96
Svres Cit de la cramique .................................. 74
Shoah (mmorial de la) ............................................ 32
shopping ........................................32 44 45
shopping streets ...........................................32
shows ....................................................... 104
shows and theatre venues ........................... 104
shuttle boat .................................................17
Sport (muse national du) ....................................... 87
squares ...............................................26 90
Square du Vert-Galant ............................................. 14
Square des Batignolles ............................................ 51
Stade de France ....................................................... 96
stocks and outlets ........................................45
street art .....................................................61
street furniture ............................................26
sunday shopping ...........................................45
Sully (htel de) ........................................................ 31
Swimming pool (Josphine-Baker) ........................... 13
Syndicat dinitiative de Montmartre .................... 9 52
T
Taxi ......................................................................... 34
theatres .................................................... 104
theme parks ................................................91
Thoiry (Chteau, jardins and zoo)............................... 91
tickets ...................................................... 106
Tomb of Napolon I .................................................. 64
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier ................................... 77
Tour Jean-sans-Peur ............................................... 32
Tour Montparnasse .................................................. 57
Tour Saint-Jacques .................................................. 33
tourisme & Handicap ...................................... 9
train stations ...............................................25
trips with commentary ..................................16
Trocadro ................................................................ 63
V
val-de-marne area ........................................88
vlib .....................................................................90
Viaduc des Arts ....................................................... 86
Vie romantique (muse de la) .................................. 50
Villa Savoye .......................................................... 111
Vin (muse du) ........................................................ 73
visits ...........................................................82
W
Well-being ...................................................75
Wine lessons ...............................................53
Woods ...........................................71 85 90
Z
Zadkine (muse) ...................................................... 59
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Publication Director P. Roll Publication manager S. Petit editor
C. Jean-Louis english translation D. Lindsay-Mc Geown, E. Lingwood.
contributors to this guide: E. Filliot (CDT du Val-de-Marne), O. Gangnard
and A. Epeche (Mairie de Paris), J. M. Grgoire (PCVB), A. Jacquemart
(CDT des Hauts-de-Seine), M. Privier (CDT de Seine-Saint-Denis),
N. Preuvot (PCVB) and I. Vignaud (PCVB). advertising System Media
Design Publicis Consultants Verbe Photo (cover) C. Maufroid
author V.Vidalou, PCVB Production L. Augereau maps AFDEC
Photogravure Asto Printed by Casterman.
Photos Pcvb: M. Bertrand, R. Casal, F. Charaffi, B. Desprez
(Organization: Gad Weil/La Fonderie/Agence VU); A. Dupont, J. H3D,
F. Jousselin, L. Lammerhuber, J. Lebar, D. Lefeuvre, D. Lefranc, A. Potignon,
S. Querbes, S. Rivoal, J. Serur Yedid, A. Terrier.
Moulin Rouge: H. Smadja, Muse de la Marine Grande galerie des
modles historiques: A. Fux, Musum dhistoire naturelle, Pavillon de
lArsenal, Muse du Louvre: S. Cardinale, Muse de la Poste, Stade Roland
Garros: D. Milherou.
cDt Hauts-de-seine: Muse du chteau de Malmaison F. Watbled.
cDt val-de-marne: La Roseraie. CDT Seine-Saint-Denis:
Stade de France

Macary, Zublena and Regembal, Costantini Architects,

ADAGP Paris 2012 Photo: F. Aguilhon.
le-de-France: Grandes Eaux musicales de Versailles: C. Milet;
Disney/DR Chteau de Vaux-le-Vicomte: F. Jaumier.
Paris city council: J. Blachas, E. Boucher, C. Boyer, G. Bruneel, R. Casal,
A. Clment, H. Garat, S. Krauss, Laurent, D. Lefeuvre, E. Lefeuvre,
M. Lemonnier, R. Mesnildrey, A. Moreau, J.-M. Paz, F. Perrot, C. Pignol,
W. Ripka, S. Robichon, B. Ruggeri, T. Sanson, C. Thiebault, M. Verhille.
Please note: the PCVB may in no way be held
responsible for any possible errors or omissions in this
guidebook. Some changes may occur during the year.
The PCVB remains at your disposal for any additional
information or clarifi cations. This guidebook lists
tourism professionals who were members of the Paris
Convention and Visitors Bureau on 9 January 2012.
June 2012
118
Paris conVenTion
anD VisiTors Bureau
25 rue des Pyramides,
75001 Paris France.
www.parisinfo.com
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Walking guide for
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