Beginning Sewing eBook

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Use this sewing machine map to help you get acquainted with the parts of your sewing machine.

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1. Spool Pin This holds your thread as you sew. 2. Bobbin winder spindle Holds the bobbin in place when winding bobbins. 3. Bobbin release Once your thread fills the bobbin, this releases, causing bobbin winding to stop. 4. Stitch width dial Controls the width of your stitch. Higher number equals a wider stitch. Use this on zig zag stitches. 5. Stitch Selection dial Use this to select from the various stitches on your machine. Computerized machines may have buttons and an LCD screen to indicate stitch selection. 6. Handwheel Use this to manually raise and lower the needle from the fabric. Always turn the handwheel toward you.

this to change the length of your stitch. A higher number indicates a longer stitch. The longest setting is called a basting stitch, and is used to hold fabrics together temporarily. 8. Reverse stitch lever Use this to sew backward. Predominantly used to lock stitches at the start and end of seams. 9. Power Switch Turns machine power on and off. 10. Bobbin winder tension guide Regulates the tension on the thread when winding a bobbin. Use your manual or use indicators on the machine to determine the threading process for bobbin winding. 11. Thread tension dial Controls the tension of your top thread. A higher number indicates more tension applied to the thread. 12. Thread take-up lever Moves up and down with the needle bar as you sew. 13. Needle clamp screw Holds the needle in place. Loosen to remove an old needle, put a new needle in place, then tighten to secure the needle. 14. Presser Foot Is raised and lowered using a lever on the back or right side of

137. Stitch length dial Use

the needle bar. When down, holds fabric in place for sewing. When it is raised it releases thread tension. Always thread the machine with the presser foot in the raised position. 15. Bobbin cover Covers the bobbin area while sewing. 16. Bobbin cover release button Push to release the bobbin case cover and insert a new bobbin. 17. Feed dog Group of teeth that feed fabric forward when sewing. Some machines have a lever to drop the feed dogs, enabling the user to feed fabric manually (not recommended for beginners used for special applications). 18. Needle Moves up and down to create stitches. 19. Needle plate a metal plate beneath the needle and presser foot. Often contains markings to aid in stitch placement. Contains an opening for the needle, and one for the feed dogs. Special thanks to sew4home.com.

Cutting
Shears Snips Seam Rippers Pinking Shears

Measuring and Marking

Chalk Pencil Tape Meausre Gridded Ruler Vanishing Fabric Marker Regular Pencil

Sewing
Thread Pins Needles Iron Bobbins Fabric

Your Machine

Mechanical
Use dials for stitch selection Components are controlled by mechanical means, rather than a computer The Janome Sewist 500

Computerized
Computerized machines offer a wider range of features, and memory capabilities The Janome Magnolia 7330

Mechanical Machines
Stitch Selection Change stitches by dial selector May be called Pattern Selection Stitch Width Adjustment Use this to make your stitches wider especially helful on zig-zag stitch Be careful which foot you have on when making adjustments, so you dont break your needle! Handwheel Use this to manually raise and lower your needle Very important for turning corners, when you want your needle to remain in the fabric Always turn the handwheel toward you

Reverse Stitch Lever Used to secure stitching at the start and end of seams

Tension Adjustment When diagnosing tension problems, always rethread your top and bobbin thread and try sewing again. This often does the trick When tension is out of balance, threads will break, or seams will pucker Problems with the top thread will appear on the bottom and vice versa To loosen, adjust to lower number. To tighten, go to higher number; move 1/2 step increments and test This only adjusts the top tension, if you have loops on the top of your fabric, make sure the bobbin thread is in the case correctly

Stitch Length Adjustment Use this to adjust your stitch length for different applications Adjust stitches from 1-5; Use 2-3 for normal sewing A long stitch (5), called a basting stitch, can be used to hold fabric together temporarily Remember: the smaller your stitches, the harder it is to remove them!

Threading Make sure you always thread your machine with the presser foot up Many machines have numbered guides to follow Reference your manual for specific threading instructions

Computerized Machines
Convenience Features Computerized machines include a number of additional features to make sewing easier These include a locking stitch button, a memorized needle up/down button and a start/stop button

Stitch Adjustment Buttons Buttons, rather than dials, allow you to change stitches and settings

Speed Control Slider Use the slider to control your speed. Set it low for difficult angles and curves

Feed Dog
The more advanced machines may have a higher number of feed dogs, or may have additional abilities, like a built in walking foot, to advance fabric from the top and bottom at once This feature pulls your fabric forward when sewing

Plate Guides
Line the fabric with a guide, and look at that as you sew, not at the needle and fabric There are also add-on fabric guides, and feet with guides for special tasks Use seam guides to help guide your fabric as you are sewing

Winding a Bobbin
Reference your machines manual for specifics Push-Pull type pull out handwheel to wind Follow threading instructions

Auto-Declutch Push over the bobbin pin; the bobbin releases when full

Inserting the Bobbin

Reference your machines manual for specific instructions The bobbin locks the stitches on the bottom of your seam

The bobbin thread has its own tension, and you have to make sure that the thread is engaged in the tension spring

Use the reverse stitch lever/button to sew in reverse at the start and end of seams

You need to secure or lock your stitches at the beginning and ending of each seam

Making Seams

When sewing, line the fabric up with the needle so that your stitches catch when you start sewing.

If your machine offers it, you can use a Locking Stitch button at the start and end of seams. This function will tie off your seams for you.

Backtacking
Press the reverse button or lever Release lever and sew forward Repeat at the end of the seam Start at the edge of the fabric and sew a few stitches Sew backward to the edge of the fabric

Locking Stitch
Keep the foot pedal depressed until needle stops moving Makes a knot at the back of fabric Simply press the button at the start and end of each seam

Stitching Corners
Needle up/down keep needle in fabric at corner, raise presser foot to pivot Clip the corners when turning to reduce bulk

Important Stitches
Straight Stitch Blind Hem Stitch Zig Zag Stitch

Buttonhole

Overedge Stitch

Decorative Stitches

Basting Stitch (straight stitch with longer stitch length)

Supplies & Materials Fabric of Choice for Napkin You will need one 18 square for each napkin (You can get four napkins out of 1 yard of fabric Thread in a color to match napkin Scissors Pins Iron Sewing Machine Make a Simple Hem Step 1: Cut the fabric into one 18 square Step 2: With wrong sides together, fold one edge over and press in place. Fold over another and press again. The raw edge is now enclosed in the fold. Step 3: Repeat Step 2 on the edge across from the edge you just folded. Step 4: Pin the two pressed and folded edges in place. Step 5: At the machine, stitch the hems in place, keeping your stitches about 1/8 from the folded edge. One trick is to put the right outside edge of the presser foot against the fold to keep a straight line. Step 6: Repeat steps 2-5 for the remaining two opposite edges of the napkin. Pay special attention to the corner folds, as there is added bulk in that seam. Step 7: Press the finished napkin. Repeat steps to complete additional napkins.

Make a Napkin

Step 1

Step 5

Step 2 Step 6

Step 3

Step 7

Step 4

Step 8

Supplies & Materials Scraps of fabric for top and bottom of acorn Thread in colors to match fabric scraps Scissors Pins Pencil or fabric marking pen Template plastic or cardboard for acorn templates Iron Sewing Machine

Appliqu is attaching fabric for embellishment to a base fabric. With raw edge appliqu, you just stitch the shape to the base fabric without turning under the raw edges of the fabric.

Appliqu - Raw Edge

Step One: Create the acorn template. Step Two: Trace the template onto the back of your fabric, and cut out the pieces. Step Three: Pin the acorn bottom piece to your base fabric and stitch in place, making your stitches about 1/8 from the edge of the fabric. Step Four: Pin the acorn top piece on the fabric, and stitch in place, making stitches about 1/8 from the edge of the fabric. Step Five: Press. Supplies & Materials Napkin or other product for embellishment Scraps of fabrics in two colors for acorn Thread in colors to match fabric scraps Template plastic or cardboard for acorn templates Scissors Pins Pencil or Fabric Marking Pen Sewing Machine

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

In Faced Appliqu, you stitch two pieces of fabric together, then turn them right side out so that the edge of the fabric is finished.

Appliqu - Faced

Finished Raw Edge Appliqu

Step One: Make a template. Step Two: Place the two pieces of fabric for the acorn bottom with right sides together. Trace around the acorn bottom template with a pencil or fabric marking pen. You may choose to pin the fabric pieces together.
Step 1

Steps 2-4

Step 5

Step Three: At your machine, stitch the two pieces of fabric together, following the line drawn from the template. Step Four: Trim around the shape, leaving about 1/8 of fabric past the stitches. Cut a hole in the fabric of the back for turning right side out. Be careful to stay away from the seam edges when cutting, and dont cut into the front of the acorn! Step Five: Turn the shape right side out and press flat. Step Six: Repeat steps 2-5 to create the acorn top. Step Seven: Pin the acorn bottom in place on the napkin, then stitch in place, placing stitches 1/8 from the edge of the acorn.
Finished Faced Appliqu

Step 6

Step Eight: Pin the acorn top in place (we overlapped the bottom slightly). Stitch in place, making stitches 1/8 from the edge of the acorn top.