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Basic Welding Terms

Scroll down or Jump straight to a heading below Welding Consumables Welding Equipment Cutting Welding Automation / Robotic Welding

What is Arc Welding? Arc welding is a method of joining two pieces of metal into one solid piece. To do this, the heat of an electric arc is concentrated on the edges of two pieces of metal to be joined. The metal melts, while the edges are still molten, additional melted metal is added. This molten mass then cools and solidifies into one solid piece. Find out more by reading one of the articles below:
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Safe Practices Promote Arc Welding Safety Arc Welding Fundamentals Power Shopping: Choosing the Ideal Welding Power Source by Selecting the Proper Welding Process 20 Frequently Asked Questions AWS Classifications Explained

Welding Consumables

Stick Electrode A short stick of welding filler metal consisting of a core of bare electrode covered by chemical or metallic materials that provide shielding of the welding arc against the surrounding air. It also completes the electrical circuit, thereby creating the arc. (Also known as SMAW, or Stick Metal Arc Welding.)

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Creating High Quality Stick Welds: A Users Guide How To Strike and Establish an Arc 20 Frequently Asked Questions

MIG Wire Like a stick electrode, MIG wire completes the electrical circuit creating the arc, but it is continually fed through a welding gun from a spool or drum. MIG wire is a solid, non-coated wire and receives shielding from a mixture of gases. (Process is also known as GMAW, or Gas Metal Arc Welding.) Learn More:
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Common Problems and Remedies for GMAW 20 Frequently Asked Questions Frequently Asked MIG welding Questions MIG vs. Flux-Cored: Which Welding Process is Right for You?

Cored Wire (Flux-Cored Wire) Cored wire is similar to MIG wire in that it is spooled filler metal for continuous welding. However, Cored wire is not solid, but contains flux internally (chemical & metallic materials) that provides shielding. Gas is often not required for shielding. (Process is also known as FCAW, or Flux-Cored Arc Welding.) Learn More:
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20 Frequently Asked Questions MIG vs. Flux-Cored: Which Welding Process is Right for You?

Submerged Arc A bare metal wire is used in conjunction with a separate flux. Flux is a granular composition of chemical and metallic materials that shields the arc. The actual point of metal fusion, and the arc, is submerged within the flux. (Process is also known as SAW, or Submerged Arc Welding.)

Stainless Steel Stainless steel electrodes and wire are used for welding applications where corrosion resistance is required. Stainless steel consumables are designed to match the composition of stainless steel base metals. Learn More:
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MIG welding Stainless Steel

Hardfacing A stick of electrode or cored wire that is designed not to fuse two pieces of metal together, but to add a layer of surface metal to a work-piece in order to reduce wear. An example of this is the shovel on an excavator.

Welding Equipment

Stick Welders Heating the coated stick electrode and the base metal with an arc creates fusion of metals. An AC and/or DC electrical current is produced by this machine to create the heat needed. An electrode holder handles stick electrodes and a ground clamp completes the circuit. Learn More:
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Creating High Quality Stick Welds: A Users How To Strike and Establish an Arc 20 Frequently Asked Questions Summer Projects: Weld Your Own Texas Grill!

TIG Welders A less intense current produces a finer, more aesthetically pleasing weld appearance. A tungsten electrode (non-consumable) is used to carry the arc to the workpiece. Filler metals are sometimes supplied with a separate electrode. Gas is used for shielding. (Process is also known as GTAW, or Gas Tungsten Arc Welding.)

MIG Welders and Multi-Process Welders Constant Voltage and Constant Current welders are used for MIG welding and are a semi-automated process when used in conjunction with a wire feeder. Wire is fed through a gun to the weld-joint as long as the trigger is depressed. This process is easier to operate than stick welding and provides higher productivity levels. CC/CV welders operate similarily to CC (MIG) welders except that they possess multiprocess capabilities - meaning that they are capable of performing flux-cored, stick and even TIG processes as well as MIG. Learn More:
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Common Problems and Remedies for GMAW 20 Frequently Asked Questions Frequently Asked MIG welding Questions

Engine Driven Welders Large stick or multi-process welders are able to operate independent of input power and are powered by a gasoline, diesel, or LPG engine instead. Ideal for construction sites and places where power is unavailable. Learn More:
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How To Select the Right Engine Driven Welder for the Job

Wire Feeder / Welders For MIG welding or Flux-Cored wire welding, wire feeder welders are usually

complete and portable welding kits. A small built in wire feeder guides wire through the gun to the piece. Learn More:
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How To Select a Compact Wire Feeder Welder Using tools Wire-Feeder Welders Common Problems and Remedies for GMAW 20 Frequently Asked Questions Frequently Asked MIG welding Questions MIG Welding Aluminum with Lincoln Compact Wire Feeder Welders

Semiautomatic Wire Feeders For MIG welding or Flux-Cored welding, semiautomatic wire feeders are connected to a welding power source and are used to feed a spool of wire through the welding gun. Wire is only fed when the trigger is depressed. These units are portable.

Automatic Wire Feeders For MIG, Flux-Cored, or submerged arc welding, automatic wire feeders feed a spool of wire at a constant rate to the weld joint. They are usually mounted onto a fixture in a factory/industrial setting and are used in conjunction with a separate power source.

Magnum Guns / Torches MIG welding guns and TIG welding torches are handheld welding application tools connected to both the wire feeder and power source. They direct the welding wire to the weld joint and control the wire feed with the use of a trigger mechanism.

Cutting

Plasma Cutters A constricted cutting arc is created by this machine, which easily slices through metals. A high velocity jet of ionized gas removes molten material from the application. Learn More:
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Plasma cutting: Determining if its Right for You and What to Look for in a Machine

Oxyfuel Gas Cutting Oxyfuel gas cutting process involves preheating the base metal to a bright cherry red, then introducing a stream of cutting oxygen which will ignite and burn the metal. Learn more on Oxyfuel Gas Cutting

Welding Automation / Robotic Welding Robotic Welding Systems The combination of a robotic arm, a welding power source and a wire feeder produces welds automatically using various programs, welding fixtures and accessories. Learn More on Robotic Welding and Welding Automation.

Environmental Systems Also known as fume extraction, these systems are often incorporated into a robotic fixture to remove welding fumes natural to the process from the welding environment. Usually a vacuum unit, they can be portable or mounted onto a wall. View Fume Extraction Packages

If you would like the definition for a term that does not appear on this page or would like to read articles on information that you can't find here, please e-mail us

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by Ken Brown, Project Research Manager, The Lincoln Electric Company

Safe Practices Promote Arc Welding Safety

Arc welding is a safe process when sufficient measures are taken to protect the welder from potential hazards and when proper operating practices are followed. Major hazards welders can encounter if these dangers are overlooked include fumes and gases, arc rays and sparks, and electric shock. Here are a few of the main precautions that will help welders avoid trouble. For further safety information and details on safe welding, contact the manufacturer of your welding equipment or the American Welding Society. Everyone with welding responsibility should also be familiar with ANSI standard Z49.1, "Safety in Welding and Cutting." Fumes and Gases Are Silent Hazards The fumes and gases that result from the welding process can cause acute or chronic health effects if proper precautions are ignored. The fume plume contains solid particles from the consumables (electrodes), base metal, base metal coating and gases formed in the process, which include oxides of nitrogen and ozone.. The gases used for shielding (argon, helium, and carbon dioxide) are nontoxic, but as they are released, they displace oxygen in breathing air. This can cause dizziness, unconsciousness, and even death with longer exposures. Avoid exposure to fumes and gases whenever possible, and use ventilation equipment or a respirator when necessary.

Here are some suggestions:

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Keep your head out of the fumes. Use enough ventilation or exhaust to remove fumes and gases from the work area. Mechanical equipment should exhaust at least 2000 cfm of air for each welder, except where individual exhaust hoods, booths, or air-line respirators

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Natural ventilation may be used under certain conditions. For welding or cutting mild steel, natural ventilation is usually sufficient if a room has at least 10,000 cubic feet per welder, with a ceiling height of at least 16 feet. Cross-ventilation should not be blocked, and welding should not be done in a confined space.

Don't get too close to the arc ("Avoid the plume"). Use corrective lenses to help you maintain the proper distance if necessary. Read and understand the Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for the product. Read and obey warning labels on all containers of welding materials. Use a smoke extractor-type welding gun for semiautomatic welding processes. Arc Rays and Sparks Can Injure Eyes and Burn Skin These are the most obvious hazards because they are the most visible. However, they should not be taken for granted. While the dangers may be well recognized, consider these factors:
q Protect your eyes and face with a properly fitted welding helmet that is equipped with the correct grade of filter plate (See ANSI Z49.1 and Z87.1 standards). Fig. 1 shows suggested shade numbers for various arc welding processes. Infrared radiation can cause retinal burning and cataracts. Even brief exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation can cause an eye burn known as "welder's flash," which results in extreme discomfort, swelling, fluid excretion, and possibly temporary blindness.

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Protect your body from welding spatter and arc flash with clothing made from durable, flame-resistant material, such as woolen fabrics, and gear that includes flame-proof apron and gloves, leather leggings, and high boots. Avoid clothing made of synthetic materials, which can melt when exposed to extreme heat or sparks, or cotton unless it is specially treated for fire protection. Keep your clothes free of grease and oil, which may ignite. Protect others from spatter, flash, and glare with non-flammable protective screens or curtains. Be sure to wear safety glasses with side shields when in a welding area.

Electric Shock Can Kill

The hazards of electric shock are one of the most serious risks facing a welder. Contact with equipment or metal parts that are electrically "hot' can cause injury or death from the shock or from a fall that results from reaction to the shock. Primary voltage shock (i.e., 230, 460 volts) is the most serious danger because it is much greater than secondary voltage shock (i.e, 60 - 100 volts). Primary voltage shock comes from touching a lead inside the welding power source while you have your body or hand in contact with the welder case or other grounded metal. Turning the equipment's power switch "off" does not turn power off inside the case. Never remove panels without unplugging the input power cord or turning the power disconnect switch off. Secondary voltage shock comes from touching part of the welding circuit, such as a bare spot on the electrode cable, while also touching the grounded metal workpiece. Avoid touching both parts of a circuit at the same time.
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Be sure you are insulated from the workpiece and ground, as well as other live electrical parts. Don't lean on the workpiece. Use plywood, rubber mats or other dry insulation to stand on, and wear dry, hole-free gloves. Stay dry, and do not weld when you are wet. Never dip the electrode in water to cool it. Check equipment to be sure it is properly grounded, in good repair, and installed according to prevailing codes. Be sure equipment is turned off when not in use. Electric current flowing through a conductor causes Electric and Magnetic Fields (EMF), which can interfere with pacemakers and may effect health in other ways. Consult your physician before arc welding if you have a pacemaker. To avoid excessive exposure to EMF, keep the electrode and work cables together, never place your body between the two cables or coil the electrode lead around your body, and do not work directly next to the welding power source. Other Hazards to Watch Welding sparks can cause fire or explosion and can easily go through small cracks and openings or spray up to 35 feet to adjacent areas. Remove fire hazards from the welding area or cover them with a fire-resistant shield if necessary. Do not weld near unshielded fuel or hydraulic lines.

Cylinders used for shielding gas in some processes can explode if handled improperly. Always store and handle them safely, keep them upright, and protect them from mechanical shocks or falling. Maintain all hoses, fittings and regulators in good condition. Never allow the electrode or any electrically "hot" parts of the welding equipment to touch a cylinder.

Do not weld near fumes from other processes, such as cleaning, degreasing or painting. Some fumes may cause an explosion, and others can form highly toxic gases when exposed to welding arcs and heat. Ear plugs or muffs will help prevent hearing loss from working around noisy arc welding equipment or some processes. They also will keep flying sparks out of your ears, especially when welding overhead or in close quarters. Hearing loss can be gradual and will add up over time, so ear protection is always a good idea.

Welding is indispensable to numerous industrial and consumer products, as it plays a key role in building and maintaining the equipment, tools and infrastructure that make our abundant lifestyle possible. Done properly, it is safe, productive and efficient. Poor safety techniques often translate into poor quality as well as posing a hazard to operators and other people in the area. Insistence on strict safety requirements for welding operations will pay off in employee health and productivity. Supplement 1 Guide for Shade Numbers Electrode Size 1/32 in. (mm) Less than 3 (2.5) 3-5 (2.5-4) 5-8 (4.-6.4) More than 8 (6.4) .. Arc Current (A) Less than 60 60-160 160-250 250-550 Less than 60 60-160 260-250 250-500 Less than 50 50-150 150-500 (Light) (Heavy) Less than 500 500-1000 Minimum Suggested(1) Protective Shade No. Shade (Comfort) 7 8 10 11 7 10 10 10 8 8 10 10 11 10 12 14 11 12 14 10 12 14 12 14

Operation Shielded metal arc welding

Gas metal arc welding and flux cored arc welding

Gas tungsten arc welding

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Air carbon arc cutting

Plasma arc welding .. Plasma arc cutting (Light)2 (Medium)2 (Heavy)2 .. .. ..

Less than 20 20-100 100-400 400-800 Less than 300 300-400 400-800 mm Under 3.2 3.2 to 12.7 Over 12.7 Under 25 25 to 150 Over 150

6 8 10 11 8 9 10 ..

6 to 8 10 12 14 9 12 14 3 or 4 2 14 .. 4 or 5 5 or 6 6 or 8 3 or 4 4 or 5 5 or 6

Torch brazing Torch soldering Carbon arc welding .. Gas welding Light Medium Heavy Oxygen cutting Light Medium Heavy in.

Plate thickness

Under 1/8 1/8 to 1/2 Over 1/2 Under 1 1 to 6 Over 6

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(1) As a rule of thumb, start with a shade that is too dark to see the weld zone. Then go to a lighter shade which gives sufficient view of the weld zone without going below the minimum. In oxyfeul gas welding or cutting where the torch produces a high yellow light, it is desirable to use a filter lens that absorbs the yellow or sodium line in the visible light of the (spectrum) operation. (2) These values apply where the actual arc is clearly seen. Experience has shown that lighter filters may be used when the arc is hidden by the workpiece. Data from ANSI/ASC Z49.1-88 Welding Safety

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The Lincoln Electric Company, 1994.

Arc-Welding Fundamentals

Arc welding is one of several fusion processes for joining metals. By applying intense heat, metal at the joint between two parts is melted and caused to intermix - directly, or more commonly, with an intermediate molten filler metal. Upon cooling and solidification, a metallurgical bond is created. Since the joining is an intermixture of metals, the final weldment potentially has the same strength properties as the metal of the parts. This is in sharp contrast to non-fusion processes of joining (i.e. soldering, brazing etc.) in which the mechanical and physical properties of the base materials cannot be duplicated at the joint. In arc welding, the intense heat needed to melt metal is produced by an electric arc. The arc is formed between the actual work and an electrode (stick or wire) that is manually or mechanically guided along the joint. The electrode can either be a rod with the purpose of simply carrying the current between the tip and the work. Or, it may be a specially prepared rod or wire that not only conducts the current but also melts and supplies filler metal to the joint. Most welding in the manufacture of steel products uses the second type of electrode. Basic Welding Circuit Fig. 1 The basic arc-welding circuit

The basic arc-welding circuit is illustrated in Fig. 1. An AC or DC power source, fitted with whatever controls may be needed, is connected by a work cable to the workpiece and by a "hot" cable to an electrode holder of some type, which makes an electrical contact with the welding electrode. An arc is created across the gap when the energized circuit and the electrode tip touches the workpiece and is withdrawn, yet still with in close contact. The arc produces a temperature of about 6500F at the tip. This heat melts both the base metal and the electrode, producing a pool of molten metal sometimes called a "crater." The crater solidifies behind the electrode as it is moved along the joint. The result is a fusion bond.

Arc Shielding However, joining metals requires more than moving an electrode along a joint. Metals at high temperatures tend to react chemically with elements in the air - oxygen and nitrogen. When metal in the molten pool comes into contact with air, oxides and nitrides form which destroy the strength and toughness of the weld joint. Therefore, many arc-welding processes provide some means of covering the arc and the molten pool with a protective shield of gas, vapor, or slag. This is called arc shielding. This shielding prevents or minimizes contact of the molten metal with air. Shielding also may improve the weld. An example is a granular flux, which actually adds deoxidizers to the weld. Figure 2 illustrates the shielding of the welding arc and molten pool with a Stick electrode. The extruded covering on the filler metal rod, provides a shielding gas at the point of contact while the slag protects the fresh weld from the air. The arc itself is a very complex phenomenon. Indepth understanding of the physics of the arc is of little value to the welder, but some knowledge of its general characteristics can be useful. Nature of the Arc An arc is an electric current flowing between two electrodes through an ionized column of gas. A negatively charged cathode and a positively charged anode create the intense heat of the welding arc. Negative and positive ions are bounced off of each other in the plasma column at an accelerated rate. Fig. 2 This shows how the coating on a coated (stick) electrode provides a gaseous shield around the arc and a slag covering on the hot weld deposit.

In welding, the arc not only provides the heat needed to melt the electrode and the base metal, but under certain conditions must also supply the means to transport the molten metal from the tip of the electrode to the work. Several mechanisms for metal transfer exist. Two (of many) examples include: 1. Surface Tension Transfer - a drop of molten metal touches the molten metal pool and is drawn into it by surface tension. 2. Spray Arc - the drop is ejected from the molten metal at the electrode tip by an electric pinch propelling it to the molten pool. (great for overhead welding!) If an electrode is consumable, the tip melts under the heat of the arc and molten droplets are detached and transported to the work through the arc column. Any arc welding system in which the electrode is melted off to become part of the weld is described as metal-arc. In carbon or tungsten (TIG) welding there are no molten droplets to be forced across the gap and onto the work. Filler metal is melted into the joint from a separate rod or wire. More of the heat developed by the arc is transferred to the weld pool with consumable

electrodes. This produces higher thermal efficiencies and narrower heat-affected zones. Since there must be an ionized path to conduct electricity across a gap, the mere switching on of the welding current with an electrically cold electrode posed over it will not start the arc. The arc must be ignited. This is caused by either supplying an initial voltage high enough to cause a discharge or by touching the electrode to the work and then withdrawing it as the contact area becomes heated. Arc welding may be done with direct current (DC) with the electrode either positive or negative or alternating current (AC). The choice of current and polarity depends on the process, the type of electrode, the arc atmosphere, and the metal being welded.

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Power Shopping: Choosing the Ideal Welding Power Source by Selecting the Proper Welding Process

The process of choosing a welding power source is much like that of buying a car. It involves searching for a product that is efficient, powerful, easy to handle and, most importantly, suited to the customer's particular needs. But with such a wide selection of power sources on the market, how do welders select the right one for them? The first step is to understand their shop's internal needs. To determine this, examine some commonly used welding processes and for which materials they are best suited. Gas Metal Arc Welding (GMAW)/Flux-Cored Arc Welding (FCAW) GMAW/FCAW (most commonly referred to as MIG or Flux-Cored Welding) uses a spool of wire that is either housed inside the power source or fed from an external wire feeder. This wire or filler material is fed through a welding gun. The power source is used to start and maintain the arc between the wire and the base metal. GMAW or MIG welding utilizes solid metal wire, which requires the use of a shielding gas to protect the weld puddle from the atmosphere. FCAW uses a hollow wire filled with a flux powder that may or may not need an external shielding gas, because the gas may be produced from the flux within the wire as it burns in the arc. The flux in the wire serves many of the same purposes as the electrode coating in SMAW.

GMAW requires the least operator skill, because the machine feeds the wire. The welding operator holds the gun in one hand, squeezes the trigger, and welds. It's that easy! The shielding gas makes for a very smooth arc that remains stable. Since other processes

typically require very specific electrode positioning and manipulation, GMAW is the fastest growing process. With compact units now retailing for less than $500 and the ability to easily weld on much thinner material than stick electrode, this type of unit has become very popular. Welding speeds are also higher because of the continuously fed electrode, absence of slag (with GMAW) and higher filler metal deposition rates. Its operating factor is typically 30-50 percent so 3-5 minutes out of every 10 can be spent creating an arc. In addition, GMAW/ FCAW does not require the degree of operator skill that TIG or stick welding does. GMAW can be used on all of the major commercial metals. FCAW is currently used primarily on steels and stainless steels. These two processes also can be used over a wide range of material thickness and operate in all positions. For these reasons, they are usually the welding processes of choice for most fabrication and production shops. On the downside, equipment for GMAW and FCAW is more complex, more costly and traditionally less portable than stick welding processes (although some new portable models do exist). Welding is typically done within a 10 to 12 foot radius of the wire feeder and the work is usually brought to the weld station. Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW) SMAW, or stick welding, is the most common form of arc welding. In the process, a stick or electrode is placed at the end of a holder. Using electricity from the power source, an arc is struck between the tip of the electrode and the metal welding surface. The heat of the arc melts the tip of the electrode creating the filler material that is deposited as the electrode is consumed. A coated material on the electrode burns and protects the arc from the atmosphere. The burning of the coating produces CO2, which becomes the shielding gas. A slag is also formed which helps refine the weld metal and protect it as it freezes. SMAW is one of the easiest and most versatile ways to weld, since filler material can be easily changed to match different metals just by switching stick electrodes. Whether it is steel, stainless steel, cast iron or high alloy metals, users can clamp in a new rod to be ready for the next project. In addition, stick is versatile because it takes the least equipment, which makes it easy to setup or move to a new location.

When compared to other types of power sources, SMAW welders are generally the least expensive. As a result, they are utilized most often by novice welders, farmers, smaller fabricating shops, maintenance shops and large field construction contractors that weld on a variety of jobs over a large physical area.

The main disadvantage to SMAW is the amount of downtime associated with the process. An electrode is only so many inches in length and must be changed once it is consumed. This requires the operator to stop welding to change the electrode. Frequently, the amount of skill required by the operator is greater than that required for wire fed processes. In addition, it takes time to chip or grind the slag or impurities from the weld. The operating factor or time that the welder is actually "creating sparks" is typically two to three minutes per 10-minute interval. In general, stick welders sacrifice productivity for versatility. Gas Tungsten Arc Welding (GTAW) In GTAW, an electric arc is established between a non-consumable tungsten electrode and the base metal. The arc zone is filled with an inert gas, typically argon, which protects the tungsten and molten metal from oxidation and provides an easily ionized path for the arc current. GTAW produces high quality welds on almost all metals and alloys. Because it can be controlled at very low amperages, it is ideally suited for welding on thin metal sheets and foils. The biggest advantage of GTAW is that high quality welds can be made on almost any weldable metal or alloy. Another major advantage is that filler metal can be added to the weld pool independently of the arc current. With other arc welding processes, the rate of filler metal addition controls the arc current. Other advantages include low spatter, no slag and relatively easy clean up.

The main disadvantage of GTAW is that it produces the slowest metal deposition rate of all the processes. The emphasis is on making welds that are perfect in appearance, which means lower welding current and more welding time. The operator needs to learn to coordinate precise movements of the torch in one hand with adding filler metal from the other hand and controlling current with a foot pedal. The operator also needs to learn how to properly setup the GTAW machine. Tungsten preparation, spark intensity, upslope, downslope, pulsing rate, peak intensity, background current, high frequency and proper grounding can all be very important issues for a GTAW welder. Combined with lower deposit rates, it's easy to see how the GTAW process has a great following in industries such as aerospace, where quality is much more important than cost. Submerged Arc Welding (SAW) SAW uses a continuously fed wire with a granular material called flux to cover the weld area.

This type of welding is used primarily on heavier plate applications such as structural steel and on specialized high speed welding of light sections. The flux plays a central role in achieving high speed and a quality weld. Very little welding fume is produced, leaving the shop air much cleaner. Since the flux covers the whole arc, a welding helmet is not required, leading to a higher operating factor. On long, large welds, multipass and overlay applications, the process can approach a 100 percent operating factor. Productivity can be very high with welding currents over 1000 amps common on automatic applications.

Disadvantages include limited welding positions, because flux comes in granular form. Operators must weld on flat surfaces to assure the flux covers the weld puddle. Another disadvantage is that hot flux can burn shoes and cause handling problems that must be addressed. With some knowledge of the types of welding processes that are available, you should now be able to make a decision as to which process best suits your needs. The next step is to start looking for a power source. Your ideal power source should accommodate your welding process, meet your size requirements, fit within your budget and offer the technology features that are needed in your shop. In the end, a reliable power source-like a reliable carwill continue to serve you for many years to come. Lincoln Electric Products

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20 Frequently Asked Questions

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The E7018 welding rods I've been buying are now marked E7018 H4R. What does the H4R mean? Are these rods different than the E7018 rods I've used before? Why is hydrogen a concern in welding? What is the maximum plate thickness which can be welded with Innershield NR211MP (E71T-11) wire? What electrode can I use to join mild steel to stainless steel? What consumable should be used to weld cast iron? What consumable can be used to weld on SAE 4130 steel tubing? What consumable should be used for weathering steel? What are you recommendations for welding AR400 plate? What consumables are better for welding over rusty, dirty steel? What flux-cored wires are better for welding on high sulfur steel? What precautions should I take when welding T-1 steels? Why are the Charpy impact values from my test welds lower than that printed on your Certificate of Conformance? I'm using Outershield 71M (E71T-1) flux-cored wire with 75Ar/25CO2. Why am I getting gas marks on the weld surface? I'm welding with an Innershield FCAW-SS wire and occasionally get porosity. How can I eliminate this? Can I use flux-cored wires (FCAW-GS or FCAW-SS) on a constant current (CC) stick welding power source? Why is preheat sometimes required before welding? How should preheat be measured? What is interpass temperature? Do I need an oven to store low hydrogen electrodes?

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1. The E7018 welding rods I've been buying are now marked E7018 H4R. What does the H4R mean? Are these rods different than the E7018 rods I've used before? H4R is an optional supplementary designator, as defined in AWS A5.1-91 (Specification for shielded metal arc welding electrodes). Basically, the number after the "H" tells you the hydrogen level and the "R" means it's moisture resistant. "H4" identifies electrodes meeting the requirements of 4ml average diffusible hydrogen content in 100g of deposited weld metal when tested in the "asreceived" condition. "R" identifies electrodes passing the absorbed moisture test after exposure to an environment of 80F(26.7C) and 80% relative humidity for a period of not less than 9 hours. The H4R suffix is basically just additional information printed on the rod, and does not necessarily mean a change in an electrode previously marked E7018. Back to Top 2. Why is hydrogen a concern in welding? Hydrogen contributes to delayed weld and/or heat affected zone cracking. Hydrogen combined with high residual stresses and crack-sensitive steel may result in cracking hours or days after the welding has been completed. High strength steels, thick sections, and heavily restrained parts are more susceptible to hydrogen cracking. On these materials, we recommend using a low hydrogen process and consumable, and following proper preheat, interpass, and postheat procedures. Also, it is important to keep the weld joint free of oil, rust, paint, and moisture as they are sources of hydrogen. Back to Top 3. What is the maximum plate thickness which can be welded with Innershield NR-211-MP (E71T-11) wire? NR-211-MP is restricted to welding these maximum plate thicknesses: Wire diameter .035"(0.9mm) .045"(1.1mm) .068"(1.7mm) 5/64"(2.0mm) 3/32"(2.4mm) Maximum plate thickness 5/16"(8mm) 5/16"(8mm) 1/2"(13mm) 1/2"(13mm) 1/2"(13mm)

For thicker steels, look to NR-212. It has similar welding characteristics to NR211-MP but is designed for use on materials up to 3/4" (19.0mm) thick. Back to Top 4. What electrode can I use to join mild steel to stainless steel? Electrode selection is determined from the base metal chemistries and the percent weld admixture. The electrode should produce a weld deposit with a small amount of ferrite (3-5 FN) needed to prevent cracking. When the chemistries are not known, our Blue Max 2100 electrode, which produces a high ferrite number, is commonly used. Back to Top 5. What consumable should be used to weld cast iron? Cast irons are alloys which typically have over 2% carbon plus 1-3% silicon and are difficult to weld. Electrodes with a high percentage of nickel are commonly used to repair cast iron. Nickel is very ductile, making it a good choice to weld on cast iron, which is very brittle. Softweld 99Ni and Softweld 55Ni are the Lincoln Electric electrodes designed for welding cast iron. Back to Top 6. What consumable can be used to weld on SAE 4130 steel tubing? On light chrome-moly tubing, mild steel electrodes are commonly used. There is enough pickup of alloy from the base material to give the required tensile strength in the as-welded condition. On multiple pass welds, Cro-Mo alloy electrodes are usually specified. Back to Top 7. What consumable should be used for weathering steel? Core Ten (A242 & A588) steels are weathering steels commonly used for outdoor structures. These steels have a higher resistance to atmospheric corrosion than typical mild steels. Often, welds on these steels are specified for similar corrosion resistance and color match. On single pass welds, mild steel electrodes are commonly used. There is usually enough pickup from the base metal to obtain a good color match. On multiple pass welds, low-alloy electrodes are commonly used to obtain a good color match and similar corrosion resistance. The electrodes commonly specified include those with the suffixes -B1, -B2, -C1, -C2, and -C3.

Back to Top 8. What are you recommendations for welding AR400 plate? AR400 is a quench and tempered steel and may be difficult to weld due its high strength and hardenability. The base steel around the weld rapidly heats and cools during welding, resulting in a heat affected zone (HAZ) with high hardness. Any hydrogen in the weld metal may diffuse into HAZ and may cause hydrogen embrittlement, resulting in delayed underbead or toe cracks outside of the weld. To minimize heat affected zone cracking: 1. Use a low hydrogen consumable with an -H4 or -H2 designation. 2. Preheat to slow the cooling rate. Note that excessive preheat may anneal the base material. 3. Slow cool. More time at elevated temperatures allows the dissolved hydrogen to escape. 4. Peen the weld beads to minimize residual weld stresses. 5. Use the lowest strength filler metal meeting design requirements. If making fillet welds, the weld can be oversized to give the specified strength 6. Minimize weld restraint. Back to Top 9. What consumables are better for welding over rusty, dirty steel? Steel should be cleaned of any oil, grease, paint, and rust before using any arc welding process. However, if complete cleaning cannot be performed, consumables that form a slag, have deeper penetration, are slower freezing, or have higher Silicon and Manganese are recommended for dirty steels. These consumables include: SMAW: Fleetweld 5P+ GMAW: SuperArc L-56, MC-710 FCAW-GS: Outershield 75 FCAW-SS: Innershield NR-311 SAW: Lincolnweld 761 and 780 fluxes Back to Top 10. What flux-cored wires are better for welding on high sulfur steel? AWS D5.20-95 FCAW Specification states that E70T-4 and E70T-7 flux-cored wires are designed with a slag system to produce welds very low in sulfur and resistant to hot cracking. Corresponding Lincoln products are Innershield NS3M and NR-311 self-shielded flux-cored wires. Also our E70T-5, Outershield 75-H gas-shielded flux-cored wire is also a better choice for welding on high sulfur steels.

Back to Top 11. What precautions should I take when welding T-1 steels? T-1 is a quenched and tempered steel. Welding quenched & tempered steels may be difficult due its high strength and hardenability. The base steel around the weld is rapidly being heated and cooled during welding, resulting in a heat affected zone (HAZ) with high hardness. Hydrogen in the weld metal may diffuse into HAZ and cause hydrogen embrittlement, resulting in delayed underbead or toe cracking outside of the weld. To minimize heat affected zone cracking: 1. Use a low hydrogen consumable, like a -H4 or -H2. 2. Preheat. This slows the cooling rate. Note that excessive preheat may anneal the base material. 3. Slow cool. More time at elevated temperatures allows the dissolved hydrogen to escape. 4. Peen the weld beads to minimize residual weld stresses. 5. Use the lowest strength filler metal meeting design requirements. If making fillet welds, the weld can be oversized to give the specified strength 6. Minimize weld restraint. Back to Top 12. Why are the Charpy impact values from my test welds lower than that printed on your Certificate of Conformance? The test results on our Certificate of Conformance were obtained from welding an AWS filler metal test plate. Any change in welding procedure will affect Charpy impact values. Below are common practices for welding test plates when Charpy impact specimens are required: 1. 2. 3. 4. Controlled heat input Controlled preheat and interpass temperature Even number of passes per layer Build-up cap pass to maximum allowed in specification

Back to Top 13. I'm using Outershield 71M (E71T-1) flux-cored wire with 75Ar/25CO2. Why am I getting gas marks on the weld surface? The fast freezing rutile slag on an E71T-1 Outershield wire gives it excellent out-of-position characteristics, but can also trap gases under the slag as the weld solidifies, resulting in gas marks. Gas marks are more commonly observed welding at high procedures under a high Argon blend shielding gas. Gas marking and/or can be minimized by:

1. Switching to 100% CO2 shielding gas 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Lowering the welding procedure Cleaning the weld joint of paint, rust, and moisture Minimize any wind disturbance Cleaning spatter from inside gas nozzle Increasing the shielding gas flow rate

Back to Top 15. I'm welding with an Innershield FCAW-SS wire and occasionally get porosity. How can I eliminate this? First, make sure the steel is clean. Vaporization of contaminants on the base metal such as moisture, rust, oil, and paint may cause porosity. Second, this can be commonly caused by excessive voltage or too short a stickout (the length of wire from the end of the contact tip to the workpiece). Make sure these are within our recommended parameters. Also, reducing the travel speed also helps minimize porosity. Back to Top 16. Can I use flux-cored wires (FCAW-GS or FCAW-SS) on a constant current (CC) stick welding power source? Our flux-cored wires are designed to operate on constant voltage (CV) DC machines. If used on a constant current (CC) machine, any small changes in electrical stickout (length of the wire from the end of the contact tip to workpiece) will produce large voltage fluctuations, resulting in stubbing and porosity. Therefore, using flux-cored wires on CC is not recommended. Back to Top 17. Why is preheat sometimes required before welding? Preheating the steel to be welded slows the cooling rate in the weld area. This may be necessary to avoid cracking of the weld metal or heat affected zone. The need for preheat increases with steel thickness, weld restraint, the carbon/ alloy content of the steel, and the diffusible hydrogen of the weld metal. Preheat is commonly applied with fuel gas torches or electrical resistance heaters. Back to Top 18. How should preheat be measured? AWS D1.1 Structural Steel Welding Code, Section 5.6 states: Preheat and all

subsequent minimum interpass temperatures shall be maintained during the welding operation for a distance at least equal to the thickness of the thickest welded part, but not less than 3 in. [75mm] in all directions from the point of welding. In general, when preheat is specified, the entire part should be thoroughly heated so the minimum temperature found anywhere on that part will meet or exceed the specified preheat temperature. Back to Top 19. What is interpass temperature? Interpass temperature refers to the temperature of the steel just prior to the depositing of an additional weld pass. It is identical to preheat, except that preheating is performed prior to any welding. When a minimum interpass temperature is specified, welding should not be performed when the base plate is below this temperature. The steel must be heated back up before welding continues. A maximum interpass temperature may be specified to prevent deterioration of the weld metal and heat affected zone properties. In this case, the steel must be below this temperature before welding continues. Back to Top 20. Do I need an oven to store low hydrogen electrodes? All low-hydrogen consumables must be dry to perform properly. Unopened Lincoln hermetically sealed containers provide excellent protection in good storage conditions. Once cans are opened, they should be stored in a cabinet at 250-300F (121-149C). When the electrodes are exposed to the air, they will pickup moisture and should be redried. Electrodes exposed to the air for less than 1 week with no direct contact with water should be redried as follows: E7018: E8018, E9018, E10018, E11018: 1 hour at 650-750F 1 hour at 700-800F

If the electrodes come in direct contact with water or have been exposed to high humidity, they should be predried for 1-2 hours at 180-220F first before following the above redrying procedure. Standard EXX18 electrodes should be supplied to welders twice per shift. Low hydrogen electrodes with the suffix "MR" have a moisture resistant coating and may be left out up to 9 hours or as specified by code requirements.

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AWS Classifications Explained

The American Welding Society (AWS) numbering system can tell a welder quite a bit about a specific stick electrode including what application it works best in and how it should be used to maximize performance. With that in mind, let's take a look at the system and how it works. The prefix "E" designates an arc welding electrode. The first two digits of a 4-digit number and the first three digits of 5-digit number indicate tensile strength. For example, E6010 is a 60,000 psi tensile strength electrode while E10018 designates a 100,000 psi tensile strength electrode. E Electrode 60 Tensile strength 1 Position "10" Type of Coating and Current

The next to last digit indicates position. The "1" designates an all position electrode, "2" is for flat and horizontal positions only; while "3" indicates an electrode that can be used for flat, horizontal, vertical down and overhead. The last 2 digits taken together indicate the type of coating and the correct polarity or current to use. See chart below: Digit 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 27 18 20 22 24 Type of Coating High cellulose sodium High cellulose potassium High titania sodium High titania potassium iron powder titania low hydrogen sodium low hydrogen potassium iron powder iron oxide iron powder low hydrogen High iron oxide High iron oxide iron powder titania Welding Current DC+ AC or DC+ or DCAC or DCAC or DC+ AC or DC- or DC+ DC+ AC or DC+ AC or DC+ or DCAC or DC+ AC or DC+ or DCAC or DCAC or DC- or DC+

28

Low hydrogen potassium iron powder

AC or DC+

As a welder, there are certain electrodes that you will most likely see and use time and time again as you go about your daily operations. A DC machine produces a smoother arc. DC rated electrodes will only run on a DC welding machine. Electrodes which are rated for AC welding are more forgiving and can also be used with a DC machine. Here are some of the most common electrodes and how they are typically used: E6010 DC only and designed for putting the root bead on the inside of a piece of pipe, this is the most penetrating arc of all. It is tops to dig through rust, oil, paint or dirt. It is an allposition electrode that beginning welders usually find extremely difficult, but is loved by pipeline welders world-wide. Lincoln 5P+ sets the standard in this category. E6011 This electrode is used for all-position AC welding or for welding on rusty, dirty, less-thannew metal. It has a deep, penetrating arc and is often the first choice for repair or maintenance work when DC is unavailable. The most common Lincoln product is Fleetweld 180 for hobby and novice users. Industrial users typically prefer Fleetweld 35. E6013 This all-position, AC electrode is used for welding clean, new sheet metal. Its soft arc has minimal spatter, moderate penetration and an easy-to-clean slag. Lincoln Fleetweld 37 is most common of this type. E7018 A low-hydrogen, usually DC, all-position electrode used when quality is an issue or for hardto-weld metals. It has the capability of producing more uniform weld metal, which has better impact properties at temperatures below zero. The Lincoln products are typically Jetweld LH-78 or our new Excalibur 7018. E7024 Typically used to make a large weld downhand with AC in plate that is at least " thick, but more commonly used for plate that is " and up. Lincoln has several electrodes in this category that are called Jetweld 1, 2, or 3. Other Electrodes Although not nearly as common, an electrode may have additional numbers after it such as E8018-B2H4R. In this case, the "B2" indicates chemical composition of the weld metal deposit. The "H4" is the diffusible hydrogen designator, which indicates the maximum diffusible hydrogen level obtained with the product. And "R" stands for the moisture resistant designator to indicate the electrode's ability to meet specific low moisture pickup limits under controlled humidification tests.

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Creating High Quality Stick Welds: A User's Guide

by Harry Sadler, Applications Engineering, The Lincoln Electric Company

Stick welding is the most common form of arc welding, but creating a good weld may not be easy for the beginner. Unlike wire welding where you basically "point and shoot," stick welding has a higher skill level and requires mastery of certain techniques. This article will offer tips that you can follow to increase your chances of creating a high quality stick weld - right from the start. It will also discuss how to troubleshoot problems and correct them. Tips 1. Select Steel in the Normal Range Whenever possible, select steel within the "normal range," these include AISI-SAE 1015 to 1025 steels with 0.1 percent maximum silicon and sulfur content under .035 percent. Selecting these steels will make the stick welding process easier since they can be welded at fast speeds with minimum cracking tendencies. If you are welding with low-alloy steels and carbon steels with chemistry compositions above the "normal range", they will have a tendency to crack, particularly when welding on heavy plate and rigid structures. Because of this, you should use special precautions. In addition, steels with high sulphur and phosphorus contents are not recommended for production welding. If they must be welded, use small diameter, low hydrogen electrodes. Welding with a slow travel speed will further keep the puddle molten allowing gas bubbles time to boil out, creating a better-finished weld. 2. Choose a Joint Position and Electrode that is Conducive to the Metal Joint position can have a great affect on finished weld quality. When welding on 10 to 18 gauge sheet steel, the fastest travel speeds are obtained with the work positioned at a 45 to 75 degrees downhill angle. Also, don't overweld or make a weld that is larger than needed for joint strength - this may lead to burnthrough. For welding mild steel plate with a thickness greater than or equal to 3/16", it is best to have the work positioned flat, because this will make operator manipulation of the electrode the easiest. Lastly, high carbon and low-alloy steel plate can

best be welded with the work in the level position. 3. Follow Simple Principles for Joint Geometry and Fitup Joint dimensions are chosen for fast welding speeds and good weld quality. Proper joint geometry is based upon some simple principles: 1) Fitup must be consistent for the entire joint. Since sheet metal and most fillet and lap joints are tightly clamped for their entire length, gaps or bevels must accurately be controlled over the entire joint. Any variations in a given joint will force the operator to slow his or her welding speed to avoid burnthrough and manipulate the electrode to adjust for the fitup variation. 2) Sufficient bevel is required for good bead shape and penetration; insufficient bevel prevents the electrode from getting into the joint. For example, a deep, narrow bead may lack penetration and has a strong tendency to crack. 3) Sufficient root opening is needed for full penetration, while excessive root opening wastes weld metal and slows welding speed. It is important to note that the root opening must be consistent with the diameter of the electrode being used. 4) A root face or a backup strip is required for fast welding and good quality. Feather edge preparations require a slow costly seal bead. However, double V butt joints without a land are practical when the seal bead cost is offset by easier edge preparation and the root opening can be limited to approximately 3/32". In general, weld seal beads on flat work with 3/16" E6010 at approximately 150 amps DC+. Use 1/8" at approximately 90 amps DC+ for vertical, overhead, and horizontal butt welds. For low hydrogen and seal beads, weld with an EXX18 electrode at approximately 170 amps. 4. Avoid Buildup and Overwelding Fillets should have equal legs and a nearly flat bead surface. Buildup rarely should exceed 1/16". Extra buildup is costly in material and time, adds little to weld strength and increases distortion. For example, doubling the size of a fillet requires four times as much weld metal. Also, it costs 2/3 more to butt weld a Π" plate (single-V with 1/8" land and 1/32" root opening) when the excess buildup approaches 1/8". 5. Clean the Joint Before Welding To avoid porosity and attain the ideal weld travel speeds, it is important to remove excessive scale, rust, moisture, paint, oil and grease from the surface of joints. If such elements cannot be removed, use E6010 (5P+) or E6011 (35 or 180) electrodes to penetrate through the contaminants and deeply into the base metal. Slow the travel speed to allow time for gas bubbles to boil out of the molten weld before it freezes. 6. Choose the Right Electrode Size Large electrodes weld at high currents for high deposit rates. Therefore, use the largest electrode practical to be consistent with good weld quality. But, electrode size may be limited especially on sheet metal and root passes, where burnthrough can occur. As a general rule, 3/16" is the maximum electrode size practical for vertical and overhead welding, while 5/32" is the maximum size practical for low hydrogen. In addition, joint dimensions sometimes limit the electrode diameter that will fit into the joint.

Troubleshooting Weld Defects Here are some of the most common stick welding problems and how to correct them. Spatter Although spatter does not affect weld strength, it does create a poor appearance and increases cleaning costs. There are several ways to control excessive spatter. First, try lowering the current. Make sure it is within the range for the type and size electrode you are welding with and that the polarity is correct. Another way to control spatter is to try a shorter arc length. If the molten metal is running in front of the arc, change the electrode angle. Finally, look for arc blow conditions (commonly referred to as a wandering arc), and be sure the electrode is not wet. Undercutting Undercutting is frequently just an appearance problem, but it can impair weld strength when the weld is loaded in tension or subjected to fatigue. To eliminate undercut, reduce current and slow travel speed, or simply reduce size until you have a puddle size you can handle. Then change the electrode angle so the arc force holds the metal in the corners. Use a uniform travel speed and avoid excessive weaving. Wet electrodes If polarity and current are within the electrode manufacturer's recommendations but the arc action is rough and erratic, the electrodes may be wet. Try dry electrodes from a fresh container. If the problem recurs frequently, store open containers of electrodes in a heated cabinet. Wandering arc With DC welding, stray magnetic fields cause the arc to wander from its aimed course. This is a greater problem at high currents and in complex joints. To control a wandering arc, the best option is to change to AC welding. If that doesn't work, try using lower currents and smaller electrodes or reduce the arc length. In addition, you can change the electrical path by shifting the work connection to the other end of the piece or by making connections in several locations. You may also do this by welding toward heavy tacks or finished welds, using run-out tabs; adding steel blocks to change work current path or tacking small plates across the seam at the weld ends. Porosity Most porosity is not visible. However, since severe porosity can weaken the weld, you should know when it tends to occur and how to combat it. Begin by removing scale, rust, paint, moisture and dirt from the joint. Be sure to keep the puddle molten for a longer time to allow gases to boil out before it freezes. If the steel has a low carbon or manganese content, or a high sulfur (free machining steel) or phosphorus content, it should be welded with a lowhydrogen electrode. Sometimes the sulfur content of free machining steels can be high enough to prevent successful welding. Minimize admixture of base metal into weld metal by using low current and fast travel speeds for less penetration. Or, try using a shorter arc length. A light drag technique is recommended for low hydrogen electrodes. For surface holes, use the same solutions that are used for porosity. If you are using E6010 or 11 electrodes, make sure that they are not too dry. Poor Fusion Proper fusion means the weld must physically bond strongly to both

walls of the joint and form a solid bead across the joint. Lack of fusion is often visible and must be eliminated for a sound weld. To correct poor fusion, try a higher current and a stringer bead technique. Be sure the edges of the joint are clean, or use an E6010 or 11 electrode to dig through the dirt. If the gap is excessive, provide better fitup or use a weave technique to fill the gap. Shallow Penetration Penetration refers to the depth the weld enters into the base metal, and usually is not visible. For full- strength welds, penetration to the bottom of the joint is required. To overcome shallow penetration, try higher currents or slower travel. Use small electrodes to reach down into deep narrow grooves. Remember to allow some gap at the bottom of the joint. Cracking Cracking is a complex subject because there are many different types of cracks that occur in different locations throughout a weld. All cracks are potentially serious, as they can lead to complete failure of the weld. Most cracking is attributed to high carbon or alloy content, or high sulfur content in the base metal. To control this cracking, try these tips: 1. Weld with low hydrogen electrodes 2. Use high preheats for heavier plate and rigid joints 3. Reduce penetration by using low currents and small electrodes. This reduces the amount of alloy added to the weld from melted base metal. 4. Fill each crater before breaking the arc 5. On multiple pass or fillet welds, be sure the first bead is of sufficient size and of flat or convex shape to resist cracking until the later beads can be added for support. To increase bead size, use slower travel speed and a short arc technique or weld 5 degrees uphill. Always continue welding while the plate is hot. 6. Rigid parts are more prone to cracking. If possible, weld toward the unrestrained end. Leave a 1/32" gap between plates for free shrinkage movement as the weld cools. Peen each bead while it is still hot to relieve stresses. Conclusion By following the tips offered here, even a beginner can create a high quality weld. And, if you are experiencing problems, being able to troubleshoot and make corrections will also turn a beginning stick welder into a professional in no time. Stick Electrodes Stainless Steel Consumables Hardfacing Consumables

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How to Strike and Establish an Arc

Source: adapted from New Lessons in Arc Welding, The Lincoln Electric Company, 1990

A welding arc is maintained when the welding current is forced across a gap between the electrode tip and the base metal. A welder must be able to strike and establish the correct arc easily and quickly. There are two general methods of striking the arc: 1. Scratching 2. Tapping The scratching method is easier for beginners and when using an AC machine. The electrode is moved across the plate inclined at an angle, as you would strike a match. As the electrode scratches the plate an arc is struck. When the arc has formed, withdraw the electrode momentarily to form an excessively long arc, then return to normal arc length. (See Figure 1) In the tapping method, the electrode is moved downward to the base metal in a vertical direction. As soon as it touches the metal it is withdrawn momentarily to form an excessively long arc, then returned to normal arc length. (See Figure 2) The principal difficulty encountered in striking the arc is "freezing," or when the electrode sticks or fuses to the work. This is caused by the current melting the electrode tip and sticking it to the cold base metal before it is withdrawn from contact. The extra high current drawn by the Figure 2 "Tapping" method of arc starting "short circuit" will soon overheat an electrode and melt it or the flux, unless the circuit is broken. Giving the electrode holder a quick snap backward from the direction of travel will generally free the electrode. If it does not, It will be necessary to open the circuit by releasing the electrode from the holder. Warning: Never remove your face shield from your face if the electrode is frozen. Free the electrode with the shield in front of your eyes, as it will "flash" when it comes loose.

Tip: Brush your work free of dirt and scale before you strike an arc. To view Lincoln's outstanding line of stick welders click here To view Lincoln's complete line of stick electrodes click here

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Reprinted with permission from the September/October, 1997 issue of Practical Welding Today magazine, copyright 1997 by The Croydon Group, Ltd., Rockford, IL

Common Problems and Remedies for GMAW

In much the same way that the automatic transmission has simplified the process of driving, Gas Metal Arc Welding (GMAW) has simplified the process of welding. Of all welding methods, GMAW is said to be one of the easiest to learn and perform. The main reason is because the power source does virtually all the work as it adjusts welding parameters to handle differing conditions; much like the sophisticated electronics of an automatic transmission. Because less skill is required, many operators are able to GMA weld at an acceptable level with limited training. These same operators run into trouble, however, when they begin creating inferior welds and are unable to diagnose and correct their own problems. The guidelines listed below will help even inexperienced operators create high quality welds as well as offering tips for those who have been using the GMAW process for a number of years. Most common welding problems fall into four categories: I. Weld porosity, II. Improper weld bead profile, III. Lack of fusion, and IV. Faulty wire delivery related to equipment set-up and maintenance. I. Weld Metal Porosity Porosity Problem #1: Improper Surface Conditions The most common cause of weld porosity is an improper surface condition of the metal. For example, oil, rust, paint or grease on the base metal may prevent proper weld penetration and hence lead to porosity. Welding processes that generate a slag such as Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW) or Flux-Cored Arc Welding (FCAW) tend to tolerate surface contaminates better than GMAW since components found within the slag help to clean the metals surface. In GMAW, the only contamination protection is provided by the elements which are alloyed into the wire. Remedies To control porosity, use a deoxidizer within the wire such as silicon, manganese or trace amounts of aluminum, zirconium or titanium. Wire chemistry can be determined by referring

to the American Welding Society (AWS) wire classification system. Test the various types of wire available to find the right chemistry for a given application. To start, try the most common wire type, ER70S-3 (Lincoln L50) which contains 0.9-1.4 percent manganese and 0.45-0.75 percent silicon. If porosity is still present in the finished weld, increase the amount of silicon and manganese found in the wire by switching to an ER70S-4 (Lincoln L54) or an ER70S-6 which has the highest levels of silicon (0.8 -1.15 percent) and manganese (1.4-1.8 percent). Some operators prefer to use a triple deoxidizer such as ER70S-2 (Lincoln L52) which contains aluminum, zirconium or titanium in addition to the silicon and manganese. In addition to changing the wire, further prevent porosity by cleaning the surface of the metal with a grinder or chemical solvents (such as a degreaser.) A word of caution though if using solvents, be certain not to use a chlorinated degreaser such as trichlorethylene near the welding arc -- the fume may react with the arc and produce toxic gases. Porosity Problem #2: Gas Coverage The second leading cause of porosity in welds is a problem with the shielding gas coverage. The GMAW process relies on the shielding gas to physically protect the weld puddle from the air and to act as an arc stabilizer. If the shielding gas is disturbed, there is a potential that air could contaminate the weld puddle and lead to porosity. Remedies Shielding gas flow varies depending on wire size, amperage, transfer mode and wind speed. Typical gas flow should be approximately 30-40 cubic feet per hour. Using a flow meter, check that the shielding gas flow is set properly. There are a variety of flow meters on the market today ranging from simple dial gauges to ball flows all the way up to sophisticated, computerized models. Some operators mistakenly think that a pressure regulator is all that is needed, but the pressure meter will not set flow. A pure carbon dioxide shielding gas requires the use of special flow meters designed specifically for carbon dioxide. These special flow meters are not affected by the frosting that may occur as the carbon dioxide changes from liquid form to a gas. If high winds are blowing the shielding gas away from the puddle, it may be necessary to erect wind screens. According to the AWS Structural Welding Code, it is advisable not to GMA weld when wind speeds are greater than 5 mph. Indoors, ventilation systems may hamper gas coverage. In this case, redirect air flow away from the puddle. If fume extraction is necessary, use equipment designed specifically for this purpose such as MAGNUM Extraction Guns from Lincoln Electric -- they will remove the fume, but not disturb the shielding gas. A turbulent flow of gas as it exits the gun may also lead to porosity problems. Ideally, the gas will lay over the weld puddle much like a blanket. Turbulent gas flow can be caused by too high a flow, an excessive amount of spatter inside the gun nozzle, or spatter build-up in the gas diffuser. Other possible causes of insufficient gas flow may be damaged guns, cables, gas lines, hoses or loose gas fittings. These damaged accessories may create what is referred to as a venturi effect where air is sucked in through these openings and flow is reduced. Lastly, welding with a drag or backhand technique can lead to gas coverage problems. Try to weld with a push or forehand technique which lays the gas blanket out ahead of the arc and lets the gas settle into the joint.

Porosity Problem#3: Base Metal Properties Another cause of weld porosity may be attributed simply to the chemistry of the base metal. For instance, the base metal may be extremely high in sulfur content. Remedy Unfortunately, if the problem with porosity lies within the base metal properties, there is not much that can be done. The best solution is to use a different grade of steel or switch to a slaggenerating welding process. II. Improper Weld Bead Profile If operators are experiencing a convex-shaped or concave-shaped bead, this may indicate a problem with heat input or technique. Improper Bead Problem #1: Insufficient Heat Input A convex or ropy bead indicates that the settings being used are too cold for the thickness of the material being welded. In other words, there is insufficient heat in the weld to enable it to penetrate into the base metal. Remedies To correct a problem with running too cold, an operator must first determine if the amperage is proper for the thickness of the material. Charts are available from the major manufacturers, including Lincoln Electric, that provide guidelines on amperage use under varying conditions. If the amperage is determined to be high enough, check the voltage. Voltage that is too low usually is accompanied by another telltale sign of a problem: a high amount of spatter. On the other hand, if voltage is too high, the operator will have problems controlling the process and the weld will have a tendency to undercut. One way to check if the voltage is set properly is to test it by listening. A properly running arc will have a certain sound. For instance, in short arc transfer at low amperages, an arc should have a steady buzz. At high amperages using spray arc transfer, the arc will make a crackling sound. The arc sound can also indicate problems -- a steady hiss will indicate that voltage is too high and the operator is prone to undercut; while a loud, raspy sound may indicate voltage that is too low. Improper Bead Problem #2: Technique A concave or convex-shaped bead may also be caused by using an improper welding technique. For example, a push or forehand technique tends to create a flatter bead shape than a pull or backhand technique. Remedy For best bead shapes, it is recommended to use a push angle of 5-10 degrees. Improper Bead Problem #3: Inadequate Work Cable Problems with the work cable can result in inadequate voltage available at the arc. Evidence of a work cable problem would be improper bead shape or a hot work cable. Remedy Work cables have a tendency to overheat if they are too small or excessively worn. In replacing the cable, consult a chart to determine size based on length and current being

used. The higher the current and longer the distance, the larger the cable needed. III. Lack of Fusion If the consumable has improperly adhered to the base metal, a lack of fusion may occur. Improper fusion creates a weak, low quality weld and may ultimately lead to structural problems in the finished product. Lack of Fusion Problem: Cold Lapping in the Short Arc Transfer Process In short arc transfer, the wire directly touches the weld pool and a short circuit in the system causes the end of the wire to melt and detach a droplet. This shorting happens 40 to 200 times per second. Fusion problems may occur when the metal in the weld pool is melted, but there is not enough energy left to fuse it to the base plate. In these cases, the weld will have a good appearance, but none of the metal has actually been joined together. Since lack of fusion is difficult to detect visually, it must be checked by dye-penetrant, ultrasonic or bend testing. Remedies: To guarantee correct fusion, ensure that voltage and amperage are set correctly. If the operator is still having problems after making those adjustments, it may require a change in the welding technique. For example, changing to a flux-cored wire or using the spray arc transfer method instead. In spray arc transfer, the arc never goes out so cold lapping and lack of fusion are not issues. Spray arc welding takes place at amperages high enough to melt the end of the wire and propel the droplet across the arc into the weld puddle. IV. Faulty Wire Delivery If the wire is not feeding smoothly or if the operator is experiencing a chattering sound within the gun cable, there may be a problem with the wire delivery system. Most of the problems related to wire delivery are attributed to equipment set-up and maintenance. Faulty Wire Delivery Problem #1: Contact Tip There is a tendency among operators to use oversized tips, which can lead to contact problems, inconsistencies in the arc, porosity and poor bead shape. Remedies: First, make sure that the contact tip in the gun is in working order and sized appropriately to the wire being used. Visually inspect the tip and if it is wearing out (becoming egg-shaped), it will need to be replaced. Faulty Wire Delivery Problem #2: Gun Liner A gun liner, like the contact tip, must be sized to the wire being fed through it. It also needs to be cleaned or replaced when wire is not being fed smoothly. Remedy: To clean the liner, blow it out with low-pressure compressed air from the contact tip end, or replace the liner. Faulty Wire Delivery Problem #3: Worn Out Gun Inside the gun are very fine strands of copper wire that will eventually break and wear out with time.

Remedy: If the gun becomes extremely hot during use in one particular area, that is an indication that there is internal damage and it will need to be replaced. In addition, be certain that the gun is large enough for the application. Operators like to use small guns since they are easy on the hand, but if the gun is too small for the application, it will overheat. Faulty Wire Delivery Problem #4: Drive Roll Drive rolls on the wire feeder periodically wear out and need to be replaced. Remedies: There are usually visual indications of wear on the grooves of the rolls if replacement is necessary. Also, make sure that the drive roll tension is set properly. To check tension, disconnect the welding input cable from the feeder or switch to the cold feed option. Feed the wire and pinch it as it exits the gun with the thumb and forefinger. If the wire can be stopped by pinching, more drive roll tension is needed. The optimum tension will be indicated by feeding that is not stopped while pinching the wire. If the drive roll tension is too high, it may deform the wire leading to birdnesting (tangling) and a burn back (when the arc climbs the wire and fuses the wire to the contact tip.) Make sure that the drive rolls and the guide tube are as close together as possible. Next, check the path from where the wire leaves the reel to where it enters the drive rolls. The wire must line up with the incoming guide tubes so there is no scrapping of the wire as it goes through the tube. On some wire feeders, the wire spool position is adjustable -- align it so that it makes a straight path into the tube. Faulty Wire Delivery Problem #5: Wire Coming Off Reel and Tangling Some wire feeding problems occur because the inertia from the wire reel causes it to coast after the gun trigger is released. Remedy: If the reel continues to coast, the wire on the reel will loosen and the wire may come off or become tangled. Most wire feeding systems have an adjustable brake on the wire reel. The brake tension should be set so that the reel does not coast. By following these four guidelines, a GMAW operator new to the world of welding or even someone more experienced should have an easier time diagnosing problems before they affect the quality of the work.

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Developed by The Lincoln Electric Company

Frequently Asked MIG Welding Questions

Here are some of the most frequently asked questions that The Lincoln Electric Company receives regarding general MIG welding issues.
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Does my choice of MIG welding wire really affect the quality of the weld? Does shielding gas affect the quality of the finished weld? Are there any other tips you can provide for higher quality MIG welding? How important is a good electrical ground in MIG welding? How important is the Contact Tip in MIG welding?

Q: Does my choice of MIG welding wire really affect the quality of the weld? A: While there are many options on the market today for mild steel welding wire, we will concentrate on the two most popular for small shops or hobbyists. Lincoln Electric offers several types of its copper-coated SuperArc MIG wire - including the popular L-50 and L-56. Although both are 70,000 lb. tensile strength wires designed for welding mild or carbon steels, it is the amount of deoxidizers found in the wires that sets them apart. SuperArc L-50 (AWS classification ER70S-3) is a great general fabrication MIG wire and it usually allows you to make quality welds on clean steel. For production work, .035, and .045 are the most common diameters. However, you may want consider SuperArc L-56 when you need to weld steels that have less than perfect surface conditions. In the same way you can upgrade gasoline for your automobile from regular to premium for enhanced performance, you can do the same for welding wire. For this reason, SuperArc L-56 wire (AWS classification of ER70S-6) carries more deoxidizers in its chemistry. This means that it has more built-in cleaning action to handle contaminants of welding such as surface rust, oil, paint and dirt. With L-56, you may not be required to do as much cleaning of the steel before welding. This higher quality of cleaning offered by the deoxidizers usually translates into a higher quality weld materials with less than stellar surface conditions. Most automotive manufacturers now mandate this type of

wire for any automotive repairs. In addition, this wire is available in diameters ranging from .025 to 1/16 which meet the welding performance demands of thin sheet metal (24 gage) to heavy plate welding. TRY SUPER ARC L-56! For more information on SuperArc Products Click Here SuperArc/SuperArc MIG Wire -- Order Bulletin C4.10 Q: Does shielding gas affect the quality of the finished weld? A: For most mild steel applications, CO2 will provide adequate shielding, but when you must have a flatter bead profile, less spatter or better wetting action, you may want to consider adding 75 to 90% argon to your CO2 shielding gas mix. Why? Argon is essentially inert to the molten weld metal and therefore will not react with the molten weld metal. When CO2 is mixed with Argon, the reactivity of the gas is reduced and the arc becomes more stable. But, Argon is more expensive. In production welding, selecting the perfect shielding gas can be a science of its own. Attributes such as material thickness, welding position, electrode diameter, surface condition, welding procedures and others can affect results. Common gas mixes for the home hobbyist and small fabricator would be:
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100% CO2 -Lowest price, generally greatest penetration, and higher levels of spatter. Limited to short circuit and globular transfer. 75% Argon - 25% CO2 -Higher price, most commonly used by home hobbyist and light fabricator, lower levels of spatter and flatter weld bead than 100% CO2. Limited to short circuit and globular transfer. 85% Argon - 15% CO2-Higher price, most commonly used by fabricators, with a good combination of lower spatter levels and excellent penetration for heavier plate applications and with steels that have more mill scale. Can be used in short circuit, globular, pulse and spray transfer. 90% Argon - 10% CO2- Higher price, most commonly used by fabricators, with a good combination of lower spatter levels and good penetration for a wide variety of steel plate applications. Can be used in short circuit, globular, pulse and spray transfer.

TRY C-25 SHIELDING GAS (75% Argon, 25% CO2 ) Q: Are there any other tips you can provide for higher quality MIG welding? A: Try a smaller diameter wire. Although the most common diameters of welding wire are .035 and .045, a smaller diameter wire usually will make it easier to create a good weld. Try an .025 wire diameter, which is especially useful on thin materials of 1/8 or less. The reason? Most welders tend to make a weld that is too big - leading to potential

burnthrough problems. A smaller diameter wire welds more stable at a lower current which gives less arc force and less tendency to burn through. If you keep your weld current lower, you will have a greater chance of success on thinner materials. This is a good recommendation for thinner materials; but be careful using this approach on thicker materials (>3/16) because there may be a risk of lack of fusion. Whenever a change like this is made, always verify the quality of the weld meets its intended application. TRY SuperArc .025" L-56! For more information on SuperArc Products Click Here SuperArc/SuperArc MIG Wire -- Order Bulletin C4.10 Q: How important is a good electrical ground in MIG welding? A: In arc welding, an arc is established from the electrode to the workpiece. To do this properly, the arc requires a smooth flow of electricity through the complete electrical circuit, with minimum resistance. If you crimp a garden hose while watering the lawn, the flow at the sprinkler head is much reduced. Beginning welders often make the mistake of attaching the work clamp (or electrical ground) to a painted panel or a rusty surface. Both of these surfaces are electrical insulators and do not allow the welding current to flow properly. The resulting welding arc will be difficult to establish and not very stable. Other telltale signs of an improper electrical connection are a work clamp that is hot to the touch or cables that generate heat. Another key point to consider when attaching the welding ground is to place the welding ground on the piece being welded. Welding current will seek the path of least resistance so if care is not taken to place the welding ground close to the arc, the welding current may find a path unknown to the operator and destroy components unintended to be in the welding circuit. SO . . . FIRMLY ATTACH WORK CABLES TO CLEAN BARE METAL AND CLOSE TO THE WELDING ARC. To receive additional safety information Click Here Q: How important is the Contact Tip in MIG welding? A: Very important. Make sure the gun tip isnt worn out or that weld spatter is not on the tip near the exit hole. The contact tip in the gun should be perfectly round and just a few thousandths larger than the wire itself. Worn tips are typically oval and can cause an erratic arc from the random electrical connection and physical movement of the wire inside the worn tip. Genuine Lincoln contact tips are precisely made from a wear-resistant copper alloy for superior welding performance. If the contact tip enters the molten weld pool, it should be immediately replaced. For most casual welders, a good rule of thumb to assure high quality welding is to change the tip after ever 100 lbs. of wire. Another point to remember about contact tips is that they should always be threaded completely into the gas diffuser and tightened prior to welding to give a smooth flow of welding current. IF THE CONTACT TIP LOOKS QUESTIONABLE, GET A NEW LINCOLN TIP, THREAD IT COMPLETELY INTO THE GAS DIFFUSER AND TIGHTEN.

To view or order our MIG / MAG Welding Guide -- Order Bulletin C4.200 Conclusion: The Lincoln Electric Company offers a full range of MIG solutions Take a look at our equipment like the mid-sized PowerMIG 255, the Waveform Control TechnologyTM tour de force named the PowerWave 455, and rugged, adaptive Series 10 wire feeders capable of MIG pulsing. Even more importantly, try for yourself the consistent quality and feedability of our SuperArc copper-coated and SuperGlide bare mild steel wires, the carefully crafted Blue Max Stainless MIG wires and the wide range of aluminum SuperGlaze MIG wires now available. In addition to products, we at Lincoln take pride in our MIG welding expertise and application assistance. If you have a question regarding our MIG solutions for your application, please contact us via phone at 1.888.921.9353 or via e-mail.

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MIG vs. Flux-Cored: Which Welding Process Is Right for You?

You are about to make the plunge and buy your first wirefeed welder. Being a toolguy (or gal), you don't want to waste your money on a toy that goes out with the trash in a few weeks. You most likely are very comfortable building things from wood, but you always wanted to step up to steel. You probably want to run it off of 115 volt input, so that it is very portable, but maybe stepping up to the 230 volt input machines with the option of welding thicker material(more than ") is a valid point. You think the decisionmaking process is over when you are hit with yet another question - which welding process will you use? . . . GMAW (MIG) or FCAW (fluxcored)? If you are like most novice welding operators, you may be confused as to the differences of these two choices. The best answer depends on 3 things. First, what you are welding. Second, where are you welding it. And Third, the surface finish of what you are welding. We will help you to decipher between the two processes, then describe advantages and disadvantages of each and wrap up by giving you usage tips. Ultimately, we hope to help you decide on a solution that will give you the best results for your application. The suggestions here are conservative and should be attainable by a beginner. Welding is a skill and an art about 95% can learn to do. Very few baseball players are able to hit over .350 in the majors. Very few welders have the skills to make picture perfect welds. It is critical to have good eye/hand coordination and a steady hand. Arc practice time is the only instructor that will teach you to truly set the machine properly. With basic motor skills, practice and patience, you should attain success at making sound welds. The Definitions Gas Metal-Arc Welding: (GMAW) as identified by the American Welding Society, is also popularly known as MIG (Metal Inert Gas) and uses a continuous solid wire electrode for filler metal and an externally supplied gas(typically from a high-pressure cylinder) for shielding. The wire is usually mild steel, typically copper colored because it is electroplated with a thin layer of

copper to protect it from rusting, improve electrical conductivity, increase contact tip life and generally improve arc performance. The welder must be setup for DC positive polarity. The shielding gas, which is usually carbon dioxide or mixtures of carbon dioxide and argon, protects the molten metal from reacting with the atmosphere. Shielding gas flows through the gun and cable assembly and out the gun nozzle with the welding wire to shield and protect the molten weld pool. Molten metal is very reactive to oxygen, nitrogen and hydrogen from the atmosphere, if exposed to it. The inert gas usually continues to flow for some time after welding to keep protecting the metal as it cools. A slight breeze can blow the shielding away and cause porosity, therefore welding outdoors is usually avoided unless special windscreens are erected. However, if done properly, operator appeal and weld appearance are excellent with MIG and it is most welders' favorite process to use. Good technique will yield excellent results. The properly made finished weld has no slag and virtually no spatter. A "push" gun angle is normally used to enhance gas coverage and get the best results. If the material you are welding is dirty, rusty, or painted it must be cleaned by grinding until you see shiny bare metal. MIG welding may be used with all of the major commercial metals, including low carbon steel, low alloy steel, and stainless steel and aluminum with potential for excellent success by a novice. Aluminum MIG Welding aluminum requires much more than just changing to aluminum wire. Get comfortable welding steel first. Since aluminum is very soft, it requires aluminum drive rolls that have a U-groove and no teeth to bite or cause wire flaking. Cleanliness of the wire and base metal are critical. Wipe the material with acetone on a clean shop rag. Use stainless steel wire brushes that have only been used on aluminum. Drive roll tension and gun length must be minimized. A Teflon, nylon or similar gun liner is needed to minimize friction in feeding the wire and 100% pure Argon gas is required for shielding. Special contact tips are often recommended. Special gun movement techniques are often highly desirable. It is a challenge, but it can be done. Self-shielded Flux-Cored Arc-Welding process (FCAW per the American Welding Society), or flux-cored for short, is different in that it uses a wire which contains materials in its core that, when burned by the heat of the arc, produce shielding gases and fluxing agents to help produce a sound weld, without need for the external shielding gas. We achieve a sound weld, but in a very different way. We have internal shielding instead of external shielding. The shielding is very positive and can endure a strong breeze. The arc is forceful, but has spatter. When finished, the weld is covered with a slag that usually needs to be removed. A "drag" angle for the gun is specified which improves operator visibility. The settings on the wirefeeder / power source are slightly more critical for this process. Improper technique will have results that are magnified. This type of welding is primarily performed on mild steel applications outdoors. The Innershield .035" NR-211MP is often used for the 115 volt machines and the .045" Innershield NR-211MP is typically used in the 230 volt machines. Farmers have found that these products can save a planting or harvest by repairing a broken machine out in the middle of the field in record time. General Usage Rules

MIG As a rule of thumb, it is recommended to use a compact 115volt input (or 230 volt) MIG wirefeeder/welder indoors on clean new steel that is 24 to 12 gauge thick. 12 gauge is a little less than 1/8" thick. 24 gauge is less than 1/16" thick. The smallest wire(.025") will make it the easiest to weld the thinnest(24 gauge) material. The .030" diameter wire will weld a little faster deposition rate. If you need to weld 1/8" to " thick material with MIG, you will need the higher capacity compact machine which will require 230 volt input. The higher amperage range of this machine can better handle your welding needs in a single pass and you may not have to waste time with second or third passes. The 230 volt machine could also run .035" diameter wire. To MIG weld material more than " thick, you need a higher capacity truly industrial machine. If most of your welding will be performed indoors on clean material that is less than 1/8" thick, a MIG machine that operates on 115 volts is probably your best bet for economic reasons in that a 230 volt input machine will be more expensive. Flux-Cored The flux-cored process is only recommended on materials as thin as 20 gauge, a bit thicker than the 24 gauge we said for MIG. In general, this process is best for welding thicker materials with a single pass, especially if you need to weld outdoors such as to repair a tractor out in the field. A 115 volt flux-cored machine using an electrode such as .035" Innershield NR-211-MP will generally allow you to weld steel up to "thick. Note that this is more than double the thickness maximum of 12 gauge with MIG on 115 volts. With the proper electrode on a proper machine, such as .045" Innershield NR-211MP, and a 230 volt input machine, you can weld steel up to 1/2" thick. Note that NR-211MP requires that the machine be setup for DC negative polarity. Advantages/Disadvantages While there are advantages and disadvantages to both processes, we will try to outline for you some of the most common. MIG Advantages
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The best choice when cosmetic appearance is an issue since it provides lower spatter levels than flux-cored. The arc is soft and less likely to burn through thin material.

The lower spatter associated with MIG also means no slag to chip off and faster cleaning time. MIG is the easiest type of welding to learn and is more forgiving if the operator is somewhat erratic in holding arc length or providing a steady travel speed. Procedure settings are more forgiving. If you are skilled and get specific proper guns, shielding gas, liners, drive rolls, and electrode, MIG can weld a wider range of material including thinner materials and different materials such as stainless, nickel alloys or aluminum.

Disadvantages
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Since a bottle of external shielding gas is required, MIG may not be the process of choice if your are looking for something that offers portability and convenience. MIG also requires additional equipment such as a hose, regulator, solenoid(electric valve) in the wire feeder and flowmeter. The welders first job is to prepare the surface by removing paint, rust and any surface contamination. MIG has a soft arc which will not properly weld thicker materials (10 gauge would be the maximum thickness that MIG could soundly weld with the 115 volt compact wirefeed welders we are referring to or " with the 230 volt input compact wirefeed machine.) As the thickness of the material(steel) increases, the risk of cold lapping also increases because the heat input needed for good fusion is just not possible with these small machines.

Flux-Cored Advantages
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The Self-Shielded electrodes are optimal for outdoor procedures since the flux is built into the wire for positive shielding even in windy conditions. An external shielding gas and additional equipment are not needed, so setting up is simpler, faster and easier. The flux-cored process is most suited for applications with thicker materials as it is less prone to cold lapping.

Disadvantages
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It is not recommended for very thin materials (less than 20 gauge). When flux-cored welding, machine settings need to be precise. A slight change in a knob position can make a big difference in the arc. In addition, the gun position is more critical in that it must be held consistently, and at the proper angle, to create a good weld. This process creates spatter and slag that may need to be cleaned for painting or finishing.

It should be noted that the same machine can be used to weld with both MIG and fluxcored processes though a special package is usually needed to change from one application to the other. Drive rolls, shielding gas, gun liners and contact tips and procedure settings need to be addressed when changing processes. Choosing Wire Another area that may cause the novice welder some concern is how to choose the best wire. Proper electrode diameter is related to plate thickness and the welder you have. A smaller wire makes it easier to weld thinner plate. For a 110 volt input MIG machine, an electrode such as Lincoln's .025" SuperArc L-56 is the smallest available size and the easiest to use on very thin material. A .030" SuperArc would weld slightly thicker material a little faster. For flux-cored, a 110v machine would run a .035" wire (such as Lincoln's NR-211-MP) because this is the smallest size made and this is all the machine can run. For a 230v MIG machine, most people are welding heavier plate and step up to the .030" or even .035" diameter solid electrode such as .030" or .035" Super Arc L-56 because they deposit weld metal faster and they can weld heavier plate. For flux-cored with the 230 volt input machine, most people move up to Lincoln's .045" diameter Innershield NR-211MP for plate up to " thick. Realize that these small machines are excellent at what they do, but they cannot do everything. Electrodes for production welding, hardfacing to resist wear, and most specialty electrodes will exceed the capacity of these machines. You must be careful to match the output voltage of your machine with the voltage of the electrode and the appropriate wire diameter and wire feed speeds to make sure you have a compatible system. Tips for All 1) It is very important to get a good, solid work connection. This means you should thoroughly clean or grind the surface of the metal where attaching the work clamp and use a tightly attached work clamp so electricity can easily flow through the workpiece and back to the welder. Paint and rust are insulators. Remove them. This is a very common mistake to overlook. 2) Put the welder on a separate circuit breaker that is properly fused as stated in your Operators Manual. This is not another strand of Christmas lights. You are melting steel at around 5,000 degrees F. You cannot weld with inadequate input power. Don't even try. 3) Good fitup is a big plus. Weld joints are laps, fillets and butts. Avoid gaps whenever possible to minimize burnthrough problems. This is especially critical on thin sheet metal. 4) Keep the gun cable as straight as possible for smooth wire feeding. Don't sharply bend it. 5) Make sure the contact tip looks good(not elongated or melted) and it is tightened to the

diffuser. 6) Cut the wire at an angle to a point before starting to weld for better starts. 7) Use correct electrode stickout and maintain it as well as proper welding procedures. 8) Make sure the driverolls feed smoothly with proper tension. 9) Relax and try to hold the gun as steady and smooth as possible. 10) Make sure you observe and follow all welding safety precautions as specified in your Operators Manual. Pay special attention to the potential for electric shock, arc rays that can burn skin and eyes, fire and explosion, and proper ventilation. For more details, consult ANSI Z 49.1. Happy Welding. Lincoln Compact MIG Welders Lincoln Compact Flux-Cored Welders

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MIG Welding Stainless Steel

Source: Adapted from The Procedure Handbook of Arc Welding. The Lincoln Electric Company, 1994.

Although welding stainless steel may not be as difficult as welding aluminum, the metal does have its specific properties that vary from your more common steels. When MIG welding on stainless, you usually have three choices of transfer depending on your equipment: sprayarc, short-circuiting, or pulsed-arc transfer.

Spray-Arc Transfer Filler metals for gas metal arc welding stainless steel are specified in AWS - A5.9-93. Click here to view full-size Acrobat .pdf file. Electrode diameters as great as 1/16-in., but usually 0.045", 0.035", and 0.030", are used with relatively high currents to create the spray-arc transfer. A current of approximately 300350 amperes is required for a 1/16-in. electrode, depending on the shielding gas and type of stainless wire being used. The degree of spatter is dependent upon the composition and flow rate of the shielding gas, wire-feed speed, and the characteristics of the welding power supply. DCEP (Direct Current Electrode Positive) is used for most stainless-steel welding. A 1or 2% argon-oxygen mixture is recommended for most stainless steel spray arc welding. On square butt welds, a backup strip should be used to prevent weld-metal drop through. When fitup is poor or copper backing cannot be used, drop-through may be minimized by short-circuit welding the first pass.

Forehand techniques are beneficial when welding with a semiautomatic gun. Although the operator's hand is exposed to more heat, better visibility is obtained. For welding plate -in. and thicker, the gun should be moved back and forth in the direction of the joint and at the same time moved slightly from side to side. On thinner metal, however, only back and forth motion along the joint is used. The more economical short-circuiting transfer process for thinner material should be used in the overhead and horizontal position for, at least, the root and first passes. Although some operators use a short digging spray arc to control the puddle, the weld is apt to be unduly porous. Short-Circuiting Transfer Power supply units with slope, voltage, and inductance controls are recommended for the welding of stainless steel with short-circuiting transfer. Inductance, in particular, plays an important part in obtaining proper puddle fluidity. The shielding gas recommended for short-circuiting welding of stainless-steel contains 90% helium, 7.5% argon, and 2.5% carbon dioxide. The gas gives the most desirable bead contour while keeping the CO2 level low enough so that it does not influence the corrosion resistance of the metal. High inductance in the output is beneficial when using this gas mixture.

Single-pass welds may also be made by using argon-CO2 gas. The CO2 in the shielding gas will affect the corrosion resistance of multipass welds made with short-circuiting transfer. Wire extension or stickout should be kept as short as possible. Backhand welding is usually easier on fillet welds and will result in a neater weld. Forehand welding should be used for butt welds. Outside corner welds may be made with a straight motion. A slight backward and forward motion along the axis of the joint should be used. Short-circuiting transfer welds on stainless steel made with a shielding gas of 90% He, 7-1/2% A, 2-1/2% CO2 show good corrosion resistance and coalescence. Butt, lap, and single fillet welds in material ranging from 0.60-in. to .125-in. in 321, 310, 316, 347, 304, 410, and similar stainless steels can be successfully made. Pulsed-Arc Transfer The pulsed arc process is normally a process wherein one small drop of molten metal is transferred across the arc for each high current pulse of weld current. The high current pulse

must be of sufficient magnitude and duration to cause at least one small drop of molten metal to form and be propelled by the pinch effect from the end of the wire to the weld puddle. During the low current portion of the weld cycle the arc is maintained and the wire is heated, but the heat developed is not adequate to transfer metal. For this reason, the time duration at the low current value must be limited otherwise metal would be transferred in the globular mode. Wire diameters of 0.030", 0.035", and 0.045" are most commonly used with this process. Gases for pulsed arc welding are argon plus 1% oxygen, the same as used for spray arc welding. These and other wire sizes can be welded in the spray transfer mode at lower average current with pulsed current than with continuous weld current. The advantage of this is that thin material can be welded in the spray transfer mode which produces a smooth weld with less spatter than the short circuiting mode. Another advantage is that for a given average current, spray transfer can be obtained with a larger wire. Larger diameter wires are less costly than smaller sizes, and the lower ratio of surface to volume reduces the possibility of weld contamination from surface oxides. Pulsed MIG welding characteristics are excellent with lower currents. There are many advantages with the process including low spatter, penetration without melt-through and excellent operator appeal. Check out Lincoln's superior line of Blue Max Stainless Steel MIG wire by clicking here. To order a copy of Lincoln Electric's Procedure Handbook of Arc Welding or other welding textbooks and educational aids, click here to order online.

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Build Your Own Texas Grill

If you are a traditional barbecue connoisseur like me, then this is your grill. Dont you love that smooth smoky flavor charcoal lends to all your grilled foods? To make sure you have a grill that can handle the heavy season of barbecue parties and gettogethers youre planning, lets talk a little bit about pulling this project together. This is a do-it-yourself welding project that wont cost a fortune to build. And, with the right equipment this project requires only one person with little to no welding experience. A great start for the metal working hobbyist. If youve never welded before, just practice for an hour or so on scrap metal. To get started, I walked down to my workshop, eyed my trusty Lincoln Electric AC-225 stick welder, saw my tool box and smiled as the light bulb flashed above my head. A large Texas grill, just like the ones you see on TV was what I needed for a season of fun filled barbecues. It wouldnt require much just an empty liquid barrel (be sure it has not contained any flammable or harmful chemicals), some pieces of angle iron, a grill of some sort, and maybe a couple of added touches! You can see from the list of materials, tools youll need and the all important safety equipment below the trouble of where and how to get started on this great project has been done for you. So what do you say lets get started!
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Strips of angle iron Lincoln Electric Fleetweld 35 (6011) stick electrode A pair of 7 wheels with bolts (Lawn Mower Wheels) A liquid barrel IMPORTANT! the barrel must be a liquid barrel that is sealed on both sides, but make

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sure it has not contained any FLAMMABLE SUBSTANCES. You can pick one up from a number of places and certain manufacturers may be willing to give you one for free. 1" x 4" cedar board for shelving. 3 3 butt hinges A handle 1" strip of steel and a 1 wood dowel

Once home, I prepared my tools. To complete this project the way I wanted, I knew just what I needed, although there are a number of variations that I could have used. See below Measure out the angle iron, keeping in mind that the BBQ should sit about waist level. Placing each piece into your table clamp [see photo], and cut through the angle iron with a jig saw. It should cut fairly easily. Some of the cuts will need to be at 45 angles so that they fit properly against opposing pieces. At this stage, you may want to form the metal strip for the handle and cut the cedar planks to size for the side shelves.

With all the pieces laid out, its time to start welding. Ventilation is important so make sure you have the garage door or the windows open before you begin. If you have a portable fan, turn that on too. Place the pieces that will make onehalf the BBQ on the floor and measure the angles and diagonals to ensure that the entire piece is square. Place the Fleetweld stick in the electrode holder and attach the ground clamp to the work piece to complete the weld circuit. Set the amperage to 90 (an appropriate setting for the type of electrode being used), and make a small tack weld to each of the joints [see photo notice the proper gear; a full-face welding helmet and the right gloves]. Repeat these steps for the back half of the frame.

With the two halves welded, it is time to weld them together with the three cross pieces [as in the photo]. In order to stand each half up independently, use a C-clamp with a scrap piece of angle iron as a temporary kickstand for each half.

Important remember to repeat the measuring stage. Squaring off everything is vital to ensure that you have a proper fit and that your BBQ will provide many seasons of cooking pleasure. Measure the diagonals, vertical and horizontal line between ends to be sure they are equal. Attach the ground clamp to the frame and make tack welds to attach the crossbars to the front and rear frame.

After all the tack welds are complete, remove the temporary kickstands and measure the angles to be sure that they are square. Using tack welds allows you to easily separate the pieces if the it out of square. Once you are sure the frame is square, weld over each joint, completing the welds.

With the frame complete, lets move on to the barrel. Again, make sure that the liquid barrel youve selected has not contained any flammable or chemical materials. The lid of the BBQ should be a quarter section of the barrel. So, lay the barrel horizontally in the frame. Find the center of the barrel with your measuring tape and mark off two chalk lines, intersecting in the center of the circle. It should look like a cross hair at each end of the barrel, or a pie sliced into four even pieces.

barrel.

Stand the barrel up in a vertical position, on a level surface. Use a chalk line to make a mark down the length of the cross hair [see photo]. This will create a single segment from the

Once again, place the barrel in the frame. Using the jig saw, cut along the chalk line. This will be the uppermost seam where the hinges will be placed.

After completing the first cut, attach the hinges. It is much easier to attach the hinges before making the second cut.

After the hinges are attached, complete the remaining cuts with the jig saw, using chalk lines as your guide. After completing the final cut, you will have a working lid that is properly fitted. Remember that the edges are still rough, so be careful handling the barrel. Using a metal file, dull the edges to prevent unintended injury to yourself or others.

A flip hatch on one end of the BBQ will allow for easy removal of ash buildup. Be sure to place the hatch on the opposite end of where the handle will go. This will make it easier to dump the ash. You can use the Harris Port-a-Torch, its easy to operate and slices through metal like butter. It comes as a complete kit with everything you need. Put on your brazing goggles, rotate the valves (acetylene at 4, oxygen at 40) and make the first cut [see photo]. Again, you may want to attach the hinge before making the remainder of the cuts for the door.

With the barrel complete, lets move back to the frame and add some of the final touches. First, set the frame on its side and chalk off a point at the bottom leg opposite of where the handle will go. This is where you place the wheels. Drill a pilot hole and then drill a full hole in the two legs. Once this is complete, slide the bolts through the holes, slide on the wheels, and secure a nut to the opposite side to hold it in place.

Remember the cedar shelving? Well now its time to work on the frame for the shelving. After all, this is where you will be doing your BBQ prep-work. Lay the pieces on the ground and measure the same as in Step 2, making sure your measurements are square, then tack weld the shelf frame together.

Now Now its time to weld the shelf frame to the main BBQ. But wait! You will need something to hold it in place. Similar to the handy tip used in Step 3, use a piece of scrap angle iron and your C-clamp and secure the shelf frame to the upper area of the main frame [see photo]. This creates a temporary shelf, allowing you to weld one side to the main frame. Repeat on opposite side.

IMPORTANT: make sure that the shelf is level. You may have to use a wedge to prop it in place from underneath. Heres another handy tip a stick electrode doubles as a great wedge because it can be adjusted by bending it.

During this step you will find out why a liquid barrel works best for this project. A liquid barrel is capped on both ends. This added bonus provides a threaded hole for our chimney. By attaching a standard 2 elbow pipe and screwing the whole piece into the opening, you have a simple, but very effective chimney.

As for the handle, this gets attached just above the lower horizontal seam. First screw the metal strip you made earlier in Step 1 into the barrel lid. As a second step, put the dowel between the two ends of the strip and secure it with a screw at each end. Wood is a great choice of material for a handle, because it is only a moderate conductor of heat and will not be too hot to the touch.

You will need two pieces for the grill. Consider using some expanded stainless steel cut to size, or you can pick up a grill grate or rack from your local home improvement store. Or you can use the grill off an old BBQ. One word of caution - be sure the grill is not painted. Use a smaller piece to set in low to hold the charcoal and allow the ash to fall through. Use a larger piece that will sit up higher and will act as the cooking surface.

As a final step, paint the entire BBQ (not the grill surfaces or cedar shelving) with high temperature paint. It will provide a great finish and insurance against rust and weather damage. When the paint is dry, place the cedar boards into the shelving frame and the grates inside and presto!

Now youre ready for some serious BBQ. Safety Equipment: Fabrication tools:

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Long sleeve cotton shirt dont wear polyester! Safety glasses Welding helmet or face shield Welding gloves Brazing goggles

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Lincoln Electric AC-225 Stick Welder Jig Saw or Sabre Saw Harris Port-a-Torch (oxy-acetylene cutter) C-clamps Measuring tape Combination square Hammer 4 grinder Framing / Carpenter Square Chipping Hammer Wire Brush A small fan to move fumes out of the garage.

Back to Top To learn more about the AC- 225 welder Click here. Or, read up on all you need to know about Fleetweld and other stick electrodes by Clicking here. Related Articles How to Strike and Establish an Arc Creating High Quality Stick Welds: A User's Guide Arc Welding Fundamentals Stick Weldirectory
This project has been published to show how individuals used their ingenuity for their own needs, convenience and enjoyment. Only limited details are available and the projects have NOT been engineered by the Lincoln Electric Company. Therefore, when you use the ideas for projects of your own, you must develop your own details and plans and the safety and performance of your work is your responsibility.

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How to Select the Right Engine-Driven Welder for the Job

Understanding the Basics

Engine-driven welders are generally used when electric power is not available for arc welding. Usually these are outdoor applications. However, engine-drive welders are often used for indoor applications when it is not convenient to supply power to electric "plug-in" arc welders. These indoor situations include everything from minor repair jobs to major plant shutdowns. When operating engine-driven welders indoors, vent the exhaust outside if at all possible, or use in large spaces with good ventilation. The basic considerations when choosing an engine-driven welder are:
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Application Engine Type Portability AC Generator Power Application

Lincoln equipment for wire welding includes all Ranger: Ready For A Workout, and all Vantage models. Other Lincoln equipment can be upgraded to provide this capability: Pipeliner 200 G & D, all Classic models and SAE-400.

In trying to select an engine drive, the first thing to consider is the application. Ask yourself these questions: 1. Is this new construction or a repair job? Also, what is the size of the project? 2. Is there a particular welding process you would like to use? You may want to stick with a process with which you feel most comfortable, or there may be a certain process required on the job. 3. Is this a pipe welding project? The equipment chosen needs to produce an arc suitable for this type of work.

For AC TIG welding the Lincoln Ranger 10,000 and 3 Phase have an AC weld output to which an optional TIG Module can be attached. Although the Ranger 305 G (shown) & D and Vantage products do not have an AC weld output, a Precision TIG 185 or an Invertec V205-T AC/DC inverter can be connected for AC TIG welding.

4. Will the job require arc gouging? Arc gouging is repair work usually done in industrial jobs. 5. What type of material needs to be welded? Most of the time the material will be a common mild steel plate. However, if it's aluminum, the welding will require different equipment.

Using this information, match it to the welding processes described below: Process Descriptions Stick Welding - CC (constant current) stick welding is the most common choice for field work. Electrode (welding rod) diameters most commonly used are 3/32", 1/8" and 5/32". The simplest equipment will handle a wide variety of construction and repair applications. Output is measured in amps, and up to 200 amps is sufficient for the electrode sizes mentioned. Most equipment is DC (direct current) output for best arc stability. A 200-amp machine is usually able to get the job done. Pipe Welding - Pipe welding is most often done with stick electrodes. Look for equipment which specifies it will pipe weld, meaning that suitable arc characteristics are specifically provided for this process. Electrode diameters are typically 5/32" and 3/16", and 200 amps is sufficient for this process. Arc Gouging - Arc Gouging is a process for removing metal. It is most commonly done in the stick mode. An arc is used with a carbon rod to melt metal and compressed air blows the molten metal away. Gouging is used to remove bad welds and to repair cracks. Most operators use equipment with 400 to 600 amps for higher productivity with 5/16" or 3/8" diameter carbon rods. However, smaller rods can be used with lower amperage. For example, a 5/32" carbon rod can be used with 150 amps. Usually a separate compressor supplies the air. A few engine-driven welders are manufactured with built-in compressors. Wire Welding - CV (constant voltage) wire welding requires a wire feeder. Wire welding's main benefit is greater productivity: more weld metal can be deposited than for stick during the same amount of time. Although wire welding is much less common compared to the above processes, the application is growing. The engine-driven welder must have a CV-wire capability. Since most engine-driven welder work is outdoors, selfshielded flux-cored wire (which requires no shielding gas) is highly recommended to keep the process simple. When welding under windy conditions, the shielding gas associated with gas-shielded processes (solid wire or gas-shielded flux-cored wire) may be blown away, resulting in poor quality welds. Output is measured in Volts and Amps. Wire diameters are typically .035" and .045", although 5/64" is often used for higher productivity. A machine with 30 volts and 300 amps is usually sufficient for many applications up to 5/64" wire. TIG Welding - a slower, but more precise type of welding well-suited for thin materials and unusual alloys. A TIG torch and shielding gas are required. If welding on aluminum, an AC weld output is required from the engine-driven welder and a high-frequency

generator is attached to start and sustain the arc. Or, an AC TIG welder can often be powered from the engine-driven welder's AC generator, if at least 8,000 watts is available. Most TIG welding is done below 100 amps. Plasma Cutting - a metal cutting process which utilizes an arc and compressed air. The engine-driven welder's AC generator can often supply power to a plasma cutter. At least 8,000 watts of power is recommended.

Engine Type After the application has been defined and the welding process has been selected, the next step is to choose the engine. Diesel, gasoline or liquid propane gas (LPG) are the choices. A diesel engine offers better fuel economy than a gasoline engine, and diesel fuel does not ignite as easily as gasoline. Refineries almost always require diesel-fueled machines rather than gasoline-fueled machines. Another consideration for large jobs is whether the fuel is being supplied at the job site. If so, it is usually diesel, but whatever the fuel, the cost savings will usually determine the engine choice.
The Lincoln Vantage 500: Setting A New Standard, and SAE 400 will gouge up to 3/8" carbons with a separate compressor. An Air Vantage 500: It's Three in One Welder, Generator and Compressor has a built-in compressor.

Gasoline engines are sometimes preferred in cold weather climates because they start more easily without extra starting aids, such as ether start kits and winterized fuel for colder weather.

LPG is much less common, but becomes an important alternative choice when diesel and gasoline exhaust emissions are not permitted for indoor applications. A spark arrester may also be required in forest and oil service areas. Portability Sometimes the need for portability will be the main factor in equipment selection. If an engine-driven welder needs to be carried or lifted to a work area, having a small gasoline stick welder will normally be the best answer. AC Generator Power AC power is sometimes required on the jobsite for grinding welds or for lights when working at night. Normally, 3,000 watts of AC generator power is plenty of power for these applications. Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs) are recommended and may be required. An AC TIG welder or plasma cutter will require more power - typically 8,000 watts minimum.

Additional Help Product literature published by welding equipment manufacturers provides additional information that cannot be covered here in detail. Company sales representatives and the customer service departments are also excellent sources of information for technical questions on applications and products. Click Here for details on Lincoln Engine Driven Welder / Generators

For pipe welding Lincoln enginedriven welders include the Ranger 250, 305 G & D, Pipeliner 200 G & D (shown), all Classic and Vantage machines, and SAE-400.

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By Jim Harris, Product Manager, The Lincoln Electric Company

How to Select a Compact Wire Feed Welder

With so many choices of welding machines on the market today, how does a novice welding operator choose what he or she needs? There are a couple of key questions that can guide you through the process and narrow down your selection to make the choice a little easier. Ask yourself the following: 1. Which arc welding process best suits my needs? Beginners will usually turn to either a wire feed or stick welding process, but which is the best one for your particular application? Wire feed welding (also referred to as wire welding) offers a number of benefits. First, it provides higher productivity efficiencies over stick since the wire is fed in a continuous process and you don't have to constantly change stick electrode rods as you are welding. Second, wire welding has a lower skill level requirement and can be picked up more readily. With stick, you have to coordinate your hand movements for feeding the electrode rod into the weld puddle, while with wire you just press the trigger and weld. Although there may be some applications where stick might be a better selection, most beginners should look toward wire welding when making their first welding machine purchase. 2. Which wire process is best for me? Now that you've chosen wire welding over stick, the next decision is to choose the type of wire welding you will perform the majority of the time. The category breaks down into two: Gas Metal Arc Welding (commonly called MIG) and flux-cored wire welding. MIG is the best choice when cosmetic appearance is an issue since it provides lower spatter levels. In addition, MIG can weld a wider range of materials, including thinner materials, and different material types such as stainless or aluminum. Since a bottle of shielding gas is necessary with the MIG process, it might not be the most attractive option if portability and convenience is a factor. On the other hand, flux-cored wire welding is the optimal choice for outdoor procedures since an external shielding gas is not required with the flux built into the wire to shield the

weld. This process is most suitable for thicker materials where weld appearance may not be as critical. One drawback is that flux-cored can only be used to weld mild steel, so if you are looking to weld more exotic metals, this processes may be too limiting for you. Most industrial products sold through a welding distributor would be equipped to handle both processes. Some manufacturers sell ready to weld packages that include a gas regulator and hose kit. 3. What is the thickness of material that will most frequently be welded? As a rule of thumb, it is recommended to use a MIG process on materials that are 24 to 12 gauge; while fluxcored is only recommended down to 20 gauge. The machine's output amperage will determine how thick you can weld. However, in general the Flux cored process will weld thicker than the MIG process with a single pass weld. The material thickness that you most often weld will not only determine the process that you choose; it will also determine the voltage of the unit you need. For instance, if you plan to weld over 1/8" material the majority of the time using a MIG process, it is recommended that you invest in a 230v system. The higher amperage range of this machine can better handle your welding needs in a single pass and you won't have to waste time with second or third passes. Examples of heavy materials can be such things as frames to tool benches or maybe even a fence. If most of your welding will be performed on material less than 1/8" thick, a 115v MIG machine is probably your best bet for economic reasons. For flux-cored welding, a 115v machine will generally allow you weld material up to ". A 115v unit is less expensive and will well suit your needs. When choosing a machine, look also at the amperage ratings of the machine - you don't want to overburden a machine by continuously welding at an amperage higher than what is recommended. 4. What input power is available? Another key question to ask yourself is what input power do you have available. For instance, if you will be doing most of your welding in your home or garage, you may only have access to a 115v input power source -- this will limit your selection to a 115v-wire welder. If you have access to 230v power in your home due to special wiring or are doing most of your welding in a job shop, you may look to a

machine that has higher voltage capabilities (230v is usually readily accessible in an industrial setting).

5. What's your budget? There are a number of technology features that set one compact wire feed welder apart from another. For instance with both a 115v and 230v machine, you can purchase either a tapped or continuous control model. Tapped control basically offers you four or five discrete voltage settings. With continuous control, you have a continuous range of settings that can provide for fine adjustments and heat control. The continuous control is a nice feature, especially when working with thin materials where a finer heat control helps to achieve an aesthetically pleasing weld - this fine control is typically more expensive than tapped control but will benefit those welding a lot of thinner sheet metal. 6. What's included in the package? Not all compact wire feed welders offer the same accessories in their package. Pay careful attention to what is included. For instance, Lincoln Electric's small SP models of wirefeeder/welders come complete with a regulator, hose and even a sample of MIG wire (select models even come with an instructional video). The only extra item you will need to purchase to be ready to weld is a tank of gas. 7. What is the quality of the machine and the manufacturer? It is always recommended to buy from a recognized name in the industry and to make sure that the machine carries a warranty. Also, check to see that the manufacturer offers technical support on-line and over the phone. In this way, if you have technical application problems, you will be able to get them answered without hassle. 8. What are the safety features of the machine?

Some machines, such as those offered by Lincoln Electric, have wire that will remain electronically cold until the trigger is pulled. What this means is that if you accidentally touch the torch to an object as you are setting-up to weld, it will not cause sparks that could damage your eyes or the workpiece. Look also for units that offer thermostatic overload protection to prevent high current from damaging the machine - especially when you are trying to weld heavy gauge material. In addition, a machine that offers an input circuit breaker protects the wiring in your home or job shop setting. With Lincoln machines, the drive motors also have circuit breaker protection so that they will automatically stop if something impedes wire feeding. And, last but not least, a good fan will be sure to keep internal components cool and provide a longer lifespan for your machine. 9. Additional Questions Some of the "finer points" to consider when purchasing include:
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Does the machine come with a detailed instruction manual? Does the manufacture offer both welding machines and consumables so that you will be able to purchase system-matched components that you know will work well together? Does the manufacturer offer a welding applications helpline in case you have a question? What if the machine needs servicing - does the manufacturer have a reputable service facility in your area? Does the machine offer upgradability such as a kit to modify the machine for specialty welding needs (like aluminum welding)? Does the unit have industry standard parts such as contact tips, nozzles and liners that can be easily purchased from any distributor?

Armed with the answers to these questions, you should be a well-educated consumer in your quest for a compact wire feed welder! Wire Feeder/Welders MIG Wires Flux-Cored Gas-Shielded Wire Flux-Cored Self-Shielded Wire

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Using Tools -- Wire-Feed Welders

By Don Priestly and reprinted courtesy of The Family Handyman magazine.

A couple of years ago, I spent $150 to have the bumper of our camping trailer welded. And I felt OK paying for it because I didn't think I could fix it myself. I thought it required expensive equipment and a lot of experience. Now I know I could have rented a wire-feeder welder, done it myself, and saved a hundred bucks. Most rental equipment stores carry these welders, and you'd be surprised how easy and safe they are to operate. Really User-Friendly Wire-feed welders are self-contained, portable units that are great for repairing metal fences and railings, shop equipment and even trailer bumpers! We don't recommend making structural repairs, such as frame work on a car or trailer. Take those jobs to an experienced welder. Most units are either 115-volt or 240-volt. The 115-volt unit (the type you rent) works off standard household electric current. The 240-volt requires a 240-volt receptacle. Both are DC arc welders that use an electric arc to melt the wire and the metal to be joined (the "workpiece"). The electrical current that's produced is around 18-volt DC, so it's relatively safe. Prices for wire-feed welders start at around $375 for a 115-volt unit. You can rent one for $35 to $50 per day. And since you probably won't use it more than once or twice a year (if that!), renting makes sense. Welding Basics Wire-feed welders use a reel of wire that's loaded onto a spindle located on the side of the unit. The wire is fed through a steel tube that runs to the welding gun. It's then fed through the gun to the weld by depressing the gun's trigger. (See Photo 1)

Most units have two setting knobs. One controls the wire-feed rate or speed, the other the voltage. The thickness of the metal you're welding determines the wire speed and amperage to use. Thicker metal requires a faster feed and higher heat. Thinner metals require slower speed and lower voltage to avoid burning through metal. Welding isn't a skill you'll learn in a few minutes. It took me almost three hours to feel comfortable and confident, learning how to hold the gun at the correct angle and getting a feel for how fast or slow to move the gun to produce a solid weld. Read the unit's instruction manual. It has the information you must know about the unit to weld safely and successfully. If you rent the welder, have the rental technician go over how to run the unit. Testing Your Metal

Not all metal can be welded with a wire-feed welder. To see if it can be welded, perform two simple tests. First, try to attach a magnet to it. (Photo 2). If the magnet sticks, you can probably weld it. Then, using a metal file, try to nick the metal. if it nicks easily, it'll be easy to weld. Hardened steel is difficult to weld. There is an exception - cast iron. It will hold a magnet and nick easily, but it can't be welded. The area to be welded must be free of oil, dirt, paint and rust. If it isn't, the weld won't be sound.

The work clamp (Photo 4) must make solid contact with the metal you'll be welding to complete the electrical circuit. Always try to attach the work clamp as close to the weld joint as possible. Safety Measures Wire-feed welders are safe if they're operated properly; however, there is the potential for severe injury or death. Be sure to read and follow the manufacturer's instructions. here are some important points to remember:
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It's best to weld outdoors. It is safe, however, to work indoors is a well-ventilated area. The fumes and gases can be dangerous. Don't lean over the work as you are welding. Keep all flammable material away from the work area. Keep a fire extinguisher handy! Never weld on a container that may have contained a flammable material, such as gasoline, paint thinner or other solvents. It will explode. Always use the protective face shield. It protects your face from the sparks and has a

special glass viewpiece to protect your eyes from the intense light of welding. Don't touch the electrode or the metal that you're welding. It will get hot and you may receive a slight tingle from the low-voltage DC going through the object. Don't touch the workpiece with unprotected hands until it has had time to cool, usually 15 to 20 minutes. Even then, use caution. Wear dry, heavy protective gloves (Photo 4). The flying sparks from the arc or the hot workpiece can burn you. Wear a long-sleeve flannel-type shirt. Upper body protectors, like the brushed leather type worn in the opening photo, are also recommended. They cost about $50. Always unplug the unit when loading wire or changing a contact tip, or when it's not in use.

Wire Feeder / Welders

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How To Successfully Weld Aluminum with a Compact MIG Welder

By Jim Harris, Product Manager, The Lincoln Electric Company and Frank Armao, Group Leader, Non Ferrous Applications, The Lincoln Electric Company When it comes to welding aluminum items around the home or garage, there are a few misconceptions we hope to clear up: 1) That you need to invest in a $4,000 welding machine and be highly skilled to have success; 2) With no practice you can make excellent welds the first time the wire feed welder is taken out of the box; and 3) You need an expensive spool gun suited for aluminum. The truth is that with practice, the right equipment and proper set-up, a compact MIG welder will be able to tackle occasional aluminum welding jobs. Using your MIG welder, you will be able to work on a variety of items around your home and yard, such as grills, railings, backyard furniture, boat docks and even decorative elements. Compact MIG welders, such as the SP, Weld-Pak or Pro models from Lincoln Electric, are available at distributors and retail outlets. A Word About Aluminum Even home welding enthusiasts who have experience welding steel may find a switch to aluminum challenging. Here's why: Because of the softness of aluminum wire, it is more difficult to feed. In addition, wire diameters and machine settings normally used for steel may not be appropriate for aluminum. In order to be successful, ask yourself these questions: What Machine Do I Need? The first decision is what type of machine is right for the job. Keep in mind that a 115 volt wire feeder welder can handle jobs that range from 22 to 12 gauge and with moderate preheating, you can probably weld as thick as 1/8". Be aware that preheating should be limited to 250 degrees F

maximum. Another option is a 230 volt machine which can weld from 22 gauge all the way to 3/16". Proper preheat can take the range to 1/4". If you will need to weld a broader range of aluminum thicknesses, consider investing in the 230v machine. Remember, if you plan on doing regular aluminum fabrication, you will need a heavy duty machine. The 115 volt and 230 volt compact MIG welder models are acceptable for occasional aluminum jobs, but not recommended for heavy duty aluminum use. For daily production welding on heavier aluminum, consider a welder that has greater than 200 amps output. After you have chosen your input voltage, another common question you will be asked when selecting a welder is whether you want a continuous or tapped voltage control model. A continuous voltage control model lets you set an infinite range of voltage within the rating of the machine, allowing more adjustability, fine tuning and precise control. This permits you to more easily adapt the voltage to your application and particular skill level. If you're on a budget, opt for the tapped control unit. This machine has a rotary switch with four or five fixed voltage choices. It will not give you the control of a continuous model, but it can be slightly easier to get up to speed with and costs less to purchase and will be adequate for most applications. What Type of Welds Can be Made? For these types of machines, it is best to make welds in the horizontal and flat positions. In general, fillet welds in lap joints are made more easily than groove welds in butt joints. Fillet welds in tee joints are preferred over corner joints. Keep in mind that home welding by an amateur is not recommended for critical welds where failure could result in serious injury. What Type of Shielding Gas is Required? MIG welding aluminum is different than welding steel when it comes to shielding gas requirements. For aluminum, 100 percent argon is the gas of choice, whereas steel welding calls for a mixed gas or 100 percent CO2 gas. The good news is that no special equipment is needed - your existing regulators (with the exception of CO2 regulators) and gas hoses can be used for both pure blends and mixed gases. What Polarity Setting is Needed? All MIG welding, including on aluminum materials, requires electrode positive polarity, while flux-cored processes typically use electrode negative. If you are switching your wire feed welder between processes, make sure to switch your polarity. This is a common mistake that many beginning welders make. What Aluminum Wire Electrode Alloy Type

Should I Buy? You will not obtain good results attempting to weld on aluminum with a steel wire electrode. Instead, our recommendation is that compact MIG welders should be limited to .035" diameter 4043 aluminum alloy filler metal. A 5356 aluminum alloy electrode may commonly be recommended by retailers and distributors, since it is a stiffer wire and can be easier to feed. However, with these types of wire feed welders, there is often not enough amperage to achieve a good weld with 5356. Even though 4043 is a softer wire, following the proper steps outlined below will ensure good feedability. Do not use other diameter wires. Specifically, you should avoid 0.030" wire (it is difficult to feed) and 3/64" wire (these compact machines do not typically produce enough current to reliably melt this diameter of wire). How Do I Set-Up My Machine to Weld Aluminum? Now that you know the type of machine you want and its capabilities/limitations, it is important to know how best to set it up. Follow these tips: Purchase an Aluminum Feeding Kit Attention to feeding issues is much more critical when it comes to aluminum welding. It is highly recommended that you purchase an aluminum feeding kit, which includes the following items:
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Non-metallic liner - designed to minimize the amount of friction on the wire U-shaped drive rolls - to avoid crushing or deforming the soft aluminum wire. These drive rolls do not shave the wire like V-groove drive rolls. Using V-groove drive rolls, the resulting wire shavings can clog the liner and lead to feeding problems. Inlet and outlet guides - designed specifically to avoid wire shaving. Contact tips - as compared to those used for the same diameter of steel wire electrode, contact tips for aluminum have larger diameter holes, since as aluminum heats up, it expands more than steel. Therefore, contact tips for aluminum applications are sized small enough to maintain good electrical contact, but large enough to allow for expansion.

Load Wire Into the Machine There is a trick to properly loading aluminum wire into a wire feed welder. While the same technique should be used with steel wire electrodes, it is especially important with aluminum wire loading, to avoid feeding problems during welding. With one hand, hold the wire spool securely so it doesn't unravel. Once you remove the cellophane wrapping, hold the loose end of the wire with the other hand - don't let go until you lock the wire into the drive roll. Inexperienced operators commonly let go of the loose end and the spool starts to unravel. If

this happens, it cannot be wound back up and still perform properly - you will have to purchase another spool. Set the Wire Brake Tension The idea is to have just enough tension to keep the wire from unraveling, but not too much tension so that it causes a drag on the wire. To do this, set the wire spool brake tension for a minimum setting. Then, load the spool on and feed it through the drive rolls. With everything stopped, if the spool keeps turning by itself, there is not enough brake tension. Be careful though, since too much brake tension can put excessive force on the wire. And, operators shouldn't be surprised at the end of the spool if they cannot feed the last few turns; usually the wire is too stiff to come off easily. Set the Drive Roll Tension This step is probably the most important in the whole set-up process. The experts from Lincoln recommend holding the nozzle about 1" away from an electrically insulated surface at a slight angle. Then, set the drive roll tension close to minimum. Pull the trigger and watch the behavior - as the wire touches the insulated surface, the drive rolls should slip. Tighten down from that point until the wire stops slipping. Again, a word of caution, as wire that is set too tight will tend to 'birdnest'. This means the wire stops at the gun but the drive rolls are still turning. The result is wire feeds out of the drive rolls and birdnests, or backs up and tangles, anywhere along the drive path - at the guide tubes, in the gun liner, etc. Remember, as you set the drive roll tension in the manner described above, that when the gun trigger is pressed, the wire is electrically hot, so always wear a quality pair of welding gloves. Ensure Good Electrical Connections The work clamp should be securely attached to the welding piece in an area free from paint and contaminants. To clean the piece, use a degreasing solvent to remove any oil and grease. Be sure that the surface is dry before you weld. Also, do not weld with flammable material nearby, such as a container of solvent or paint. As a second step, use a clean, stainless steel wire brush to remove all oxides from the surface of the aluminum. Position Is Important As you are welding, keep the gun cable as straight as possible to minimize feeding restrictions on the soft aluminum wire. A bend in the gun cable can make the wire kink and feed poorly. Practice, Practice, Practice! There is no substitute for practice. Just as a high-quality musical instrument won't make you a good player without practice, a welding operator needs to hone his or her skills as well. Before too long, you and your welder will be making beautiful music (or at least welds) together!

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Plasma Cutting: Determining if it's Right for You and What to Look for in a Machine

Introduction Do you need a cutting tool for occasional repair and maintenance work? Have you recently embarked on a new project that requires higher cutting volumes? Or, are you looking for a new alternative to your current mechanical saw? All of these scenarios provide great reasons to investigate plasma cutting. With the cost of machines on the decline, smaller-sized, portable machines flooding the market and technology offering increased benefits and easier usage -- it may be time to take a serious look at plasma for your cutting applications. The benefits of plasma cutting include ease of use, higher quality cuts and faster travel speeds. What is Plasma Cutting Technology? In simplest terms, plasma cutting is a process that uses a high velocity jet of ionized gas that is delivered from a constricting orifice. The high velocity ionized gas, that is, the plasma, conducts electricity from the torch of the plasma cutter to the work piece. The plasma heats the workpiece, melting the material. The high velocity stream of ionized gas mechanically blows the molten metal away, severing the material.

How Does Plasma Cutting Compare to Oxyfuel cutting? Plasma cutting can be performed on any type of conductive metal - mild steel, aluminum and stainless are some examples. With mild steel, operators will experience faster, thicker cuts than with alloys. Oxyfuel cuts by burning, or oxidizing, the metal it is severing. It is therefore limited to steel and other ferrous metals which support the oxidizing process. Metals like aluminum and stainless steel form an oxide that inhibits further oxidization, making conventional oxyfuel cutting impossible. Plasma cutting, however, does not rely on oxidation to work, and thus it can cut aluminum, stainless and any other conductive material. While different gasses can be used for plasma cutting, most people today use compressed air for the plasma gas. In most shops, compressed air is readily available, and thus plasma does not require fuel gas and compressed oxygen for operation.

Plasma cutting is typically easier for the novice to master, and on thinner materials, plasma cutting is much faster than oxyfuel cutting. However, for heavy sections of steel (1 inch and greater), oxyfuel is still preferred since oxyfuel is typically faster and, for heavier plate applications, very high capacity power supplies are required for plasma cutting applications. What Can I Use a Plasma Cutter for? Plasma cutting is ideal for cutting steel, and non-ferrous material less than 1 inch thick. Oxyfuel cutting requires that the operator carefully control the cutting speed so as to maintain the oxidizing process. Plasma is more forgiving in this regard. Plasma cutting really shines in some niche applications, such as cutting expanded metal, something that is nearly impossible with oxyfuel. And, compared to mechanical mean of cutting, plasma cutting is typically much faster, and can easily make non-linear cuts. What are the limitations to Plasma Cutting? Where is Oxyfuel preferred? The plasma cutting machines are typically more expensive than oxyacetylene, and also, oxyacetylene does not require access to electrical power or compressed air which may make it a more convenient method for some users. Oxyfuel can cut thicker sections (>1 inch) of steel more quickly than plasma.

What to Look for When Purchasing a Plasma Cutting Machine

Once you have determined plasma cutting is the right process for you, look at the following factors when making a buying decision.

1. Determine The Thickness of the Metal that You will Most Frequently Cut One of the first factors you need to determine is the thickness of metal most frequently cut. Most plasma cutting power sources are rated on their cutting ability and amperage. Therefore, if you most often cut " thick material, you should consider a lower amperage plasma cutter. If you most frequently cut metal that is " in thickness look for a higher amperage machine. Even though a smaller machine may be able to cut through a given thickness of metal, it may not produce a quality cut. Instead, you may get a sever cut which barely makes it through the plate and leaves behind dross or slag. Every unit has an optimal range of thickness -- make sure it matches up with what you need. In general, a " machine has approximately 25 amps of output, a 1/2 machine has a 50-60 amp output while a " - 1" machine has 80 amps output. 2. Select Your Optimal Cutting Speed Do you perform most of your cutting in a production environment or in an atmosphere where cutting speed isn't as critical? When buying a plasma cutter, the manufacturer should provide cutting speeds for all thickness of metal measured in IPM (inches per minute). If the metal you cut most frequently is ", a machine that offers higher amperages will be able to cut through the metal much faster than one rated at a lower amperage, although both will do the job. For production cutting, a good rule of thumb is to choose a machine, which can handle approximately twice your normal cutting thickness. For example, to perform long, fast, quality production cuts on " steel, choose a 1/2 class (60 amp) machine. If you are performing long, time-consuming cuts or are cutting in an automated set-up, be sure to check into the machine's duty cycle. Duty cycle is simply the time you can continuously cut before the machine or torch will overheat and require cooling. Duty cycle is

rated as a percentage of a ten-minute period. For example, a 60 percent duty cycle at 50 amps means you can cut with 50 amps output power continuously for six minutes out of a 10-minute period. The higher the duty cycle, the longer you can cut without taking a break. 3. Can the Machine Offer an Alternative to High Frequency Starting? Most plasma cutters have a pilot arc that utilizes high frequency to conduct electricity through the air. However, high frequency can interfere with computers or office equipment that may be in use in the area. Thus, starting methods that eliminate the potential problems associated with high frequency starting circuits may be advantageous. The lift arc method features a DC+ nozzle with a DC- electrode inside. Initially, the nozzle and the electrode physically touch. When the trigger is pulled, current flows between the electrode and the nozzle. Next, the electrode pulls away from the nozzle and a pilot arc is established. The transfer from pilot to cutting arc occurs when the pilot arc is brought close to the work piece. This transfer is caused by the electric potential from nozzle to work. Lincoln Electric's Pro-Cut line offers patented Dual Winding Technology with separate windings for the pilot and cutting arc. With Dual Windings, the pilot arc is optimized during current transfer for a fast, positive transfer without the use of a resistor. Dual Windings work by creating the electric potential for a transfer - they create a voltage difference to snap the arc to the work piece. Because Lincoln has eliminated the large resistor usually found in plasma cutting machines, it can offer units that are smaller in size with increased portability. 4. Compare Consumable Cost Versus Consumable Life Plasma cutting torches have a variety of wear items that require replacement, commonly called consumables. Look for a manufacturer that offers a machine with the fewest number of consumable parts. A smaller number of consumables mean less to replace and more cost savings. For example, Lincoln Electric's Pro-Cut line has only three front-end parts in the torch and only two of those are consumables: the electrode and the nozzle. Lincoln also offers tool-less changeovers when replacing these consumables. Look in the manufacturer's specifications for how long a consumable will last - but be sure when comparing one machine against another that you are comparing the same data. Some manufacturers will rate consumables by number of cuts, while others will use the number of starts as the measurement standard. 5. Test the Machine and Examine Cut Quality Make test cuts on a number of machines, traveling at the same rate of speed on the same thickness of material to see which machine offers the best quality. As you compare cuts, examine the plate for dross on the bottom side and see if the kerf (the gap left by cut) angle is perpendicular or angular. Look for a plasma cutter that offers a tight, focused arc. Lincoln Electric offers its Pro-Cut line with VORTECH Technology consumables which are specially designed to concentrate the plasma swirl, offering a tighter arc and concentrating more cutting power on the work piece. Another test to perform is to lift the plasma torch up from the plate while cutting. See how far you can move the torch away from the work piece and still maintain an arc. A longer arc

means more volts and the ability to cut through thicker plate. 6. Pilot to Cut and Cut to Pilot Transfers The transfer from pilot arc to cutting arc occurs when the pilot arc is brought close to the work piece. A voltage potential from nozzle to work is mechanism for this transfer. Traditionally, a large resistor in the pilot arc current path created this voltage potential. This voltage potential directly affects the height at which the arc can transfer. After the pilot arc transfers to work a switch (relay or transistor) is used to open the current path. Look for a machine that provides a quick, positive transfer from pilot to cutting at a large transfer height. These machines will be more forgiving to the operator and will better support gouging. A good way to test transfer characteristics is by cutting expanded metal or gratings. In these instances, the machine will be required to quickly transfer from pilot to cut and back to pilot very quickly. To get around this, they may recommend you cut expanded metal using only the pilot current. Lincoln's Pro-Cut products excel at this process because they employ Dual Winding Technology. This technology utilizes two separate power systems (windings): one tailored for pilot arcs, the other for cutting. This patented configuration creates the nozzle to work voltage potential without a large resistor. Additionally, the control system can rapidly select which winding is required for the task. The result is instantaneous positive transfers from up to " away from the work. At the end of the cut, the control system maintains the arc by instantly retracting back into a pilot arc. *Pro-Cut 55 and 80 only. 7. Check the Machine's Working Visibility As you are working on an application, you want to be able to see what you are cutting, especially when tracing a pattern. Visibility is facilitated by the geometry of the torch - a smaller, less bulky torch will enable you to better see where you are cutting, as will an extended nozzle.

8. Look for the Portability Factor Many consumers use their plasma cutter for a variety of cutting applications and need to move the machine around a plant, job site or even from site to site. Having a lightweight, portable unit and a means of transportation for that unit - such as a valet style undercarriage or shoulder strap - make all the difference. Additionally, if floor space in a work area is limited, having a machine with a small footprint is valuable. Also, you want a machine that offers storage for the work cable, torch and consumables. Built-in storage drastically improves portability since these items will not drag on the ground or get lost during machine transport. 9. Determine the Ruggedness of the Machine For today's hard job site environments, look for a machine that offers durability and has protected controls. For example, fittings and torch connections that are protected will wear better than those that aren't. Some machines offer a protective cage around the air filter and other integral parts of the machine. These filters are an important feature since they

ensure oil is removed from the compressed air. Oil can cause arcing and reducing cutting performance. Protection of these filters is important as they ensure oil and water, which reduces cutting performance, is removed from the compressed air. 10. Find Out if the Machine is Easy to Operate and Feels Comfortable Look for a plasma cutter that has a big, easy-to-read control panel that is user-friendly. Such a panel allows someone who does not normally use a plasma cutter to be able to pick it up and use it. In addition, a machine with procedural information clearly printed on the unit will help with set-up and troubleshooting. How does the torch feel in your hand? You want something that has good ergonomics and feels comfortable. 11. Look for Safety Features Look for a machine that offers a true Nozzle-in-Place safety sensor. With such a feature, the plasma cutter will not start an arc unless the nozzle is in place. Some safety systems can be fooled into thinking the nozzle is in place (i.e. shield cup sensing), even when it is not. If the output is turned on, the operator will be exposed to 300 VDC, a very unsafe condition. This cannot happen with the Lincoln Nozzle-in-Place safety sensor. Look for a machine that provides a pre-flow sequence. This feature provides an advanced warning to the use before the arc initiates. In addition, look for a machine which provides a three-second pre-flow safety which gives users advanced warning to make sure all body parts are clear of the nozzle before the arc initiates. How Can I Make the Most of This Cutting Tool? After you have selected the plasma cutting machine that is right for you, here are some tricks-of-the-trade that will help beginners make the best possible cut. 1. Set-Up Procedures Before you start, check for the following items:
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A clean compressed air supply, without water or oil. Consumables that wear quickly, or black burn marks on the plate, may indicate that the air is contaminated Correct air pressure - this can be checked by looking at the gauges on the unit A nozzle and electrode are correctly in place A good connection of the work lead to a clean portion of the work

2. Safety Gear Some basic safety practices should be observed. You should read your instruction manual thoroughly to understand the machine. Wear long sleeves and gloves while cutting since molten metal is generated during the cutting process. Eye protection such as dark goggles or a welding shield is required to protect your eyes from the cutting arc. Typically a darkness shade of #7 to #9 is acceptable. Finally, follow all safety tips and guidelines that are detailed in your instruction manual. 3. Piercing the Work Many inexperienced users try to pierce the metal by coming straight down, perpendicular (90 degrees) to the work. This results in molten metal being blown back into the torch. A better method is to approach the metal at an angle (60 degrees from horizontal, 30 degrees

from vertical) and then rotate the torch to the vertical position. This way, the molten metal is blown away from the torch. 4. Don't Touch the Nozzle to the Work Piece Do not touch the nozzle to the work when using current levels of 45 amps or more. Doing so will drastically reduce the nozzle life as the cutting will double arc through the nozzle. Double arcing can also occur if the torch is guided by dragging it against a metal template. The result is the same as dragging the nozzle on the work -- prematurely worn nozzles. 5. Beginners Should Use a Drag Cup to Facilitate the Cut Many systems offer an insulated drag cup, which snaps over the nozzle. This allows the torch to rest on the work piece and dragged along to facilitate a consistent cut. 6. Travel at the Right Speed When moving at the right cutting speed, the molten metal spray will blow out the bottom of the plate at a 15 to 20 degree angle. If you are moving too slowly, you will create slow speed dross, which is an accumulation of molten metal on the bottom edge of the cut. When moving too fast, high-speed dross on the top surface is created since you are not allowing time for the arc to completely go through the metal. Traveling too fast or too slow will create a low-quality cut. Typically, low speed dross can be distinguished from high-speed dross by ease of removal. For example, low speed dross can be removed by hand whereas highspeed dross typically requires grinding. 7. Set the Current to Maximum As You Begin When setting the current, put it on the maximum output of the machine, then turn it down as needed. More power is usually better, except when doing precision cutting or when you need to keep a small kerf. 8. Minimize Pilot Arc Time Because of the wear it creates on the consumables, try to minimize the amount of time spent in pilot arc mode. To do this, position the plasma torch by the edge of the work before starting the arc so you can get right to cutting. 9. Maintain A Constant Work Distance Optimally, you should maintain a 3/16" to 1/8" distance from the nozzle to the work. Moving the torch in an up and down fashion will only hinder your efforts. 10. Travel in the Direction that will Give You the Best Finished Work If you are making a circular cut and plan to keep the round piece as your finished work, move in a clockwise direction. If you plan to keep the piece from which the circle was cut, move in a counterclockwise direction. As you push the torch away from you, the better cut will appear on the metal that is on the right hand side, since it will tend to have a better, squarer edge. 11. End with a Push Angle on Thick Material One trick to use on thicker material is to rotate the torch slightly, increasing the torch orientation to a push, rather than drag angle as you cut through the last section of material.

This increase in the push angle at the finish will cut through the bottom first and get rid of the bottom corner that is usually left at the end of thick plate. Never finish a cut by using the torch to hammer away the last corner of the work. After finding the right machine for your application and learning some of the tricks of the trade, you should be ready to cut. Remember that plasma cutting offers a number of benefits and should provide you with faster, higher quality cuts. Plasma Cutting Products

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Whether your company is considering its first automated welding cell, or you're ready to upgrade or enhance existing robotic welding systems, you can't choose a better partner than Lincoln Electric. Automated welding solutions from Lincoln are helping fabricators all over the globe improve product quality, boost production output, and increase operating efficiencies. See why welding automation may be a Smart Move for your company.

Learn more about Lincoln Automation

Providing Single Source Solutions Built on Process Knowledge, Experience and Local Representation Local representation is vital to better understanding our customers welding automation needs and to furnish the communication and support that is required from initial design through your final production run. Lincoln Electric Welding Technology and Experience With over a century of world leadership in welding and cutting innovations, The Lincoln Electric Company possesses unique capabilities for robotic welding. As a manufacturer of both welding equipment and welding consumables, we are able to develop automated welding systems that are process driven.

FANUC Robotics Our welding technology is complemented by the robotic innovations of FANUC Robotics North America Inc. FANUC is North Americas largest supplier of robot manufacturing. The Lincoln Electric/FANUC team not only provides individual engineering resources backed by world class research and development, but our engineering staffs work jointly, building on each others strengths to maintain a leadership role in manufacturing technology. Local Support Lincoln's huge global network of facilities and people is your assurance of quick response, personal attention and well-directed robotic welding approaches. No matter where your welding operations are located today, no matter where they'll be tomorrow, Lincoln welding experts are close at hand, ready to create and implement automated welding solutions that precisely and efficiently fit your needs.

Easy to Buy, Easy to Lease, Easy to Own An Automated Welding System The sooner you make the move to automated welding from Lincoln Electric, the sooner you begin reaping the benefits. And there's no faster, more convenient way to bring the efficiency, profitability and quality of robotic welding to your company than through Lincoln Electric Capital. Lincoln Electric Capital offers a complete menu of customer purchase and lease options that makes welding automation amazingly affordable. More...

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Fume Extraction Packages

Miniflex - Portable Welding Fume Extraction Lincoln Electric's Miniflex is a portable, high vacuum, low volume fume extraction system specifically designed for the removal and filtration of welding fumes. With light to medium duty welding processes, the Miniflex excels in performance, design and ease of handling. Mobiflex 200-M - Portable Welding Fume Extraction System The Mobiflex 200-M is a mobile, low vacuum fume extraction system providing 735 CFM of airflow. It features quiet operation, aluminum spark arrestor and automatic start/stop arc sensor. Add a LFA flexible extraction arm and you have a really nice, good value for the money, portable fume extraction system. Mobiflex 400-MS - Portable Welding Fume Extraction System For heavy duty applications, use the Mobiflex 400-MS. The Mobiflex 400-MS provides all the excellent features of the Mobiflex 200-M, but with automatic filter cleaning. The Mobiflex 400-MS uses either 10 ft. or 13 ft. spring balanced extraction arms to capture welding fumes. Statiflex 200-M (Single) - Stationary Welding Fume Extraction System Want to free up some valuable floor space? Then the Statiflex 200-M unit is for you. It's a stationary filtration system for wall mounted arms or stationary ventilation. Extraction arm options include 10-foot or 13-foot lengths and a telescopic model designed for small workstations or schools. Statiflex 400-MS (Single) - Stationary Welding Fume Extraction System For heavy duty applications, use the Statiflex 400-MS. The Statiflex 400-MS provides all the excellent features of the Statiflex 200-M, but with automatic filter cleaning. Statiflex 200-M (Dual) - Stationary Welding Fume Extraction System Same great features of the Statiflex 200-M fume extraction system times two! View All Fume Extraction Products

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