A foodie guide to heritage food (and some history) in Iloilo

Iloilo is foodie paradise. The abundance from haciendas, teeming seas and fish ponds has created a food culture that ranges from earthy, simple rural dishes to complex entrees, deserts and pastries, many of which have become household favourites all over the country . Focus on Tabu-an , Ilonggo for a happening, or a food doing celebrating heritage cuisine, heroes and history in Sta. Barbara , the third year of the food fest initiated by Chef Rafael Tibong Jardeleza to highlight Ilonggo cuisine and history. The Tabu-an heritage food competition Chef Tibong draws out food traditions by including a cross section of cooks among his contestants-- barrio housewives, experienced cooks and culinary students who render thirty six heirloom recipes in a full course dinner, for at least three hundred people at an evening meal under the stars, at the historic churchyard Traditional food processes unique to Ilonggo cooking such as nilagpang, tinuom, pinaisan, binakol are brought from traditional kitchens to the mainstream. Nilagpang starts with grilling fresh fish (or chicken) over live coals, with tomatoes,chilies and onions. The meat is deboned and cubed then marinated in a tuba vinegar, sugar and toyo mixture. The smoky flavour is distinctive.

Tinuom uses fresh banana leaves to wrap up ingredientsmushrooms, chicken, tomatoes for steaming in hot water with salt, pepper and patis. Pinaisan is usually done by lining a clay pot with banana leaves, layering ingredients which might be fish or chicken,topping these with souring leaves called alumpiran, ginger, garlic, turmeric, shallot, lemon grass, gata and rock salt and allowing these to simmer for an hour. Theres a fiesta energy as the six teams hustle and bustle around their clay pots, an expectance of celebration there is biga-biga ( a naughty name for pigs organ which is the main ingredient) appetizer,panara the barrio empanada without meat, ukoy na talaba, pochero among others.

The judges check for neatness, chef skills and cooking styles. The winner is declared the Barangay Nutrition Scholars of Sta. Barbara; with their nilagpang catfish for appetizerspantat oozing with fat , deboned and cubed , marinated in a sauce of tuba vinegar; grilled onions and tomatoes. The dish is the heart of simplicity itself, nilagpang is a a quick farmers lunch. The freshness and quality of the ingredients is exceptional, the smoky flavour of fish and vegetables, evocative. The same ladies also get away with the best entre, a hearty Spanish escabeche or fish with sweet sour sauce. If ever you are in Sta. Barbara town, waiting for a flight, Barangay Nutrition Scholars cooperative canteen is at the corner of the town plaza.

Sta. Barbara town is the Tabu-an site where the new international airport and the oldest golf course in the Philippines is, a landscaped green of hills and dales designed by British and Scottish engineers, one of whom would marry Leonor Rivera, the erthswhile love of Jose Rizal . Kahilyawan or Cry of Sta. Barbara for freedom against Spanish oppression took place on Nov 17, 1898 here,led by General Martin Delgado ,the hero who would break the thrall of colonialism in these parts: the first revolutionary act in the province .The town would serve as the base for the revolutionary forces in Iloilo; flying the Philippine flag for the first time outside Luzon. The province of Iloilo would eventually be surrendered to the rebel forces of Delgado by Spanish Governor General de los Rios. The highlight of the celebrations include the raising the gigantic flag at the plaza with all the town officials and heroes families in attendance. THE CHURCH OF STA BARBARA dates back to 1849 but the township itself was a pueblo (then named Catmon) established by the Agustinians as early as 1617. In 1760, Catmon was established as an independent parish with Santa Barbara as patroness and protector. The township would be central to commercial and agricultural activity and till today many well preserved manor homes abound .There is a wealth of history here but the guide starts out with a foodie factthis is the place for the best chicken tinuom. Food is at the hub of most activity.

ESCAS , Iloilo city (20 min away from Sta. Barbara airport) Chef Miguel Cordova starts lunch with laswa ,an Ilonggo staple -- a soup of freshly picked squash, okra, eggplant,and other garden vegetables: simple and refreshing. The steamed seafood, crabs and shrimps are dipped in langaw, the potent vinegar chock-full of chilis and spices; adobo, cooked the Visayan way in gata is curry colored.

PLAZA FOOD in Sta Barbara -- No fiesta is complete without hawkers food at the town square -- chicken inasal and pantat, spareribs, kinilaw na dilis and arroz offered from the stalls to be drunk with beer -amidst music, fireworks and much merrymaking. STA. BARBARA breakfasts are a spread of Iloilo dried dilis and calcag(tiny dried shrimp fried to a crisp), fish tocino, great coffee, local longaniza and luscious mangoes from the nearby town of Leon. THE ORIGINAL PIYAYA AND PINASUGBO is prepared at the kitchen factory of Gerry Siason. Piyaya is that very light and subtly sweet pastry with honey filling; pinasugbo is the inimitable banana cracker in burnt sugar coatingboth of Visayan origin now national favorites. He started out with a P100 capital in the seventies and now supplies all the major pasalubong places and eateries. NAMPRIK THAI- Ilonggo style in a garden with pomelo salads, chicken curry and luscious mangoes in rice with coconut cream by chef and owner Tess Nepumoceno .

MERIENDAS galore: Centuries old BALAY CAMINIA in Arevalo town, offers hot, rich and thick chocolate eh, with toasted little mamons and panara the poor mans empanada in piquant garlic sauce. Enjoy in turn-of-the century splendour of this restored bahay na bato, originally built in the 1700s, with gleaming old furniture and antique chinaware for everyday use . A boutique with handwoven textile and tablea, as well as original batirol to take home. MARIDELS in Placuela mall; try the unforgettable Snicker cake or the award winning Potato praline for your sweet tooth high . Some cake recipes have been passed down from her mother who dreamt the recipe for Potato praline; the Daumier (the Louie Vuitton patterned cake), the kiwi peach torte, the mango brazo, the divine lime and others too sinful to mention are Maridel Padilla Uygungcos own creations. Her family history is a food Saga with tales of an aunt shipping in suitcases full of Chinese ham and chorizos from abroad and shipping out guinamos and buro to the home of the brave and the burgers.

PANADERIA DE MOLO parallels the history of Molo, an old ChineseSpanish trade parian community. One hundred thirty years ago, when the church was being built, a surfeit of egg yolks from the construction which had been using egg white to bind the lime and mortar was offered to the forbears of the Luisa Joson Sianson who turned them into the melt-in-your mouth delicacies baniadas, otap, galletas and others pastries, plus their version of the lumpia Iloilo, never equalled and much imitated down the years.

Management has passed to the young generation, las nietas de Luisa Hyacinth S. Catral and Heather S. Maloto and some cousins with a 40 strong team of bakers. The cousins are doing bits of architectural upgrades to enhance the century old bakery but are intent on preserving the work ethics and values and of course, the recipes. CHEF TIBONGS SIGNATURE TABU-AN LUNCH The Chef initiated these lunches held right at the town market with themes of rustic simplicity and quality heritage food pinamalhan pantat, guinataan langka, inihaw na baboy, kinilaw --all flavours from memory banks of deep comfort and celebration. He whips these up, by appointment, and it is an experience. THE CALINOG HIDDEN FALLs promises a trek to a hidden waterfall set amidst forest green in Calinog, Iloilo. Scuttle through streams and narrow trails to find a neat , little kiosk quickly built of bamboo close to the waterfall. Here host Mayor Centeno offers a lunch of roast wild boar and grilled fish, to the distant roar of the waterfalls. BIZCOCHO HAUS has a despedida restaurant on the way to the airport where passengers flying out still chow on the last bite of the chopsuey and pinamalhan adobo with the rich sauce reduction, as they shop on pasalubong of dulce gatas, butterscotch candy, broas and other wonderful concoctions of the Guaderramas, culled from treasured family recipes.

( for reservations at Escas, the Coop Canteen of the Nutrition Scholars at Sta. Barbara, Namprik, Maridels , Bahay Caminia and tours : Flavors of Iloilo-Jory cp no. 09172405816)