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Above is a typical home experimenters construction of an electro magnet usually consisting of a iron bolt six inches in length and approx 1/2 inch in diameter. and usually available from a hardware store. The bolt has a screw thread and two insulated metal washers to hold the windings in place and a nut covering the screw thread. The winding consist of 20 swg insulated magnet wire although any gauge wire could be used for this purpose. Check your electronics or electricity store (Radio Shack ) to get some magnet winding wire. I used a twelve volt car battery to provide power to the electromagnet and in this case also any DC power source could be used. The amount of current and voltage needed to energise an electromagnet varies with wire size and length and will have be to be determined by experimentation by yourself and your friends. If you can get some wire resistance and power values for your wire gauge you may be able to determine the power required to power your magnet. I afraid this is outside the scope of this article and I encourage you to experiment yourself but on no account use the AC power from your home utility power supply apart from being the wrong type of power (AC) is can also be deadly if you don't know what you are doing (SO BE WARNED). Please note the iron bolt should have a layer of insulation wrapped around it to prevent a possible short circuits and to hold the washers in place The winding wire for a normal electromagnet is wound around the from the bottom to top in a circular pattern around the metal bolt and when the top is reached ,I then use some common sticky cellotape tape to hold the layer windings in place and then wind down towards the bottom .
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I repeat the above processes until sufficient wire and layers are wound on the bolt core for the magnetic strength required.. .
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A high current diode may be needed in this circuit to prevent the reverse EMF from de magnetising the metal subject. The windings are wound in the same direction as for a normal solenoid winding. By the way this design could also be used as a excellent solenoid actuation switch with the addition of a return spring. Again you will need to experiment with the metal casing ,coil length ,wire gauge sizes and power to get the desired the magnet strength.
It just occurs to me that if you installed the central coil and make two drill holes in one of the end caps to take the leads from the coil ,you could then insert a metal object to be magnetised in the hollow solenoid coil, and then place a second end cap at the other end of the metal cyclinder.. So that when the current is introduced to the coil all the magnetic field generated would need to then travel through your metal sample and around the metal casing thus making a stronger magnet than using a single end cap as illustrated. below. Remember you cannot magnetize any other object stronger than the applied magnetic field.
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Similar arrangement to the first magnetiser but please notice the one return loop in each top bottom arrangement. This also gives a better magnetising field as well I believe.
I haven't tried this idea as shown in following section, but I also think a slight improvement may also be noticed in operation. But at this stage have no way of confirming it as we are dealing with AC not DC as of the top electro magnets designs . Other's who are more experienced in the art may be able to help me here. Above is a typical metal laminated transformer consisted of E shaped metal cut out with an I shaped metal filler to complete the magnetic circuit. The coil is wound on a plastic former divided into two separate winding sections namely primary and secondary output coil windings. The winding former is placed in the center of the metal arrangement. The power is applied to the primary circuit windings and is either outputed at the same power levels
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( voltage current ) or used to either step up or step down the voltage or current levels. I believe it would be interesting to observe what would happen if the below arrangement was considered and wound in accordance with modified coil winding arrangement as put forward in the previous two ideas. If you do construct one please don't forget to let me know what your observations are.
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The positions of electromagnet and pickup coil shown are for ease of drawing and may not be the best position possible. Again looking at the diagram you will also see 1 inch round magnets at each end of the driving shaft ( The magnets desired are 1 inch round Tandy Radio Shack the ones with a central hole ) A magnet is mounted at each end of the rotor axel and is in opposition to one facing it on the permanent fixed magnets on brackets at each end. ( that is North opposing North or South opposing South ) The diameter of the axel needs to be small enough so that ends are able to rotate freely inside the opposing magnets. Although only a single magnets are shown in the diagram there is no reason why several could not be used to increase opposing magnetic strength.. At start up the axel at both ends although in opposing mode are resting on each end bracket magnet bottoms due to the combined weight of the magnets themselves the axel and rotor weight combined. When power is sent to the electro magnet The rotor will begin to spin and the rotor assembly should lift and a find a point of balance on the opposing magnet. fields The unit is now spinning on magnetic field cushion . The device may at this stage have no practical value as yet but it would be interesting to watch and ponder any way.