Literature Review The emergence of branded gold jewellery In the late 1990s, the Indian jewellery market witnessed

a shift in consumer perceptions of jewellery. Instead of being regarded as only an investment option, jewellery was being prized for its aesthetic appeal. In other words, the focus seemed to have shifted from content to design. Trendy, affordable and lightweight jewellery soon gained familiarity. Branded jewellery also gained acceptance forcing traditional jewelers to go in for branding. Given the opportunities the branded jewellery market offered; the number of gold retailers in the country increased sharply. Branded players such as Tanishq, Oyzterbay, Gili and Carbon opened outlets in various parts of the country. Traditional jewelers also began to bring out lightweight jewellery, and some of them even launched their in-house brands. However, the share of branded jewellery in the total jewellery market was still small (about Rs. 10 billion of the Rs. 400 billion per annum jewellery market in 2002), though growing at a pace of 20 to 30 percent annually The branded jewellery segment occupied only a small share of the total jewellery market because of the mindset of the average Indian buyer who still regarded jewellery as an investment. Moreover, consumers trusted only their family jewelers when buying jewellery. Consequently, the branded jewellery players tried to change the mindset of the people and woo customers with attractive designs at affordable prices.

Gold Jewellery Becomes Fashion Accessory

Till the early 1990s, the average Indian bought jewellery for investment rather than for adornment. Jewellery made of 18-karat gold was not favored as it was considered a poor investment. Confidence in the local jeweler was the hallmark of the gold jewellery trade in India. A jeweler or goldsmith in a local area had a fixed and loyal clientele. The buyer had implicit faith in his jeweler. Additionally, the local jeweler catered to the local taste for traditional jewellery. However, since the late 1990s, there was a shift in consumer tastes: women were increasingly opting for fashionable and lightweight jewellery instead of traditional chunky jewellery. There was a rise in demand for lightweight jewellery, especially from consumers in the 16 to 25 age group, who regarded jewellery as an accessory and not an investment. The new millennium witnessed a definite change in consumer preferences. According to Samrat Zaveri, CEO of Trendsmith, "Research shows that the Indian jewellery sector is in the transition phase with consumers' desire for possession of jewellery for its aesthetic appeal and not as a form of investment." In October 2002, Trendsmith conducted a survey to understand the shifting needs, motivations and aspirations of consumers in the jewellery market, and to identify new trends and opportunities. The research study arrived at the following conclusions: The Indian market was witnessing an accelerated shift from viewing jewellery as an investment to regarding it as aesthetically appealing ornaments. The focus had shifted from content to design The younger generation was looking at trendy, contemporary jewellery and clearly avoiding heavy, traditional gold jewellery.

 The consumer wanted a wider selection at a single convenient location and expected an international shopping experience. The Indian consumer was willing to experiment with new designs. The late 1990s and early 2000s, with the increase in the number of designers from design schools such as the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), a wide range of new designs became available. In addition, the growing number of manufacturers needed a retailing platform with global and national reach. All these led to the proliferation of branded jewellery players.

Indian Customers Showing Interest in Branded Jewellery Posted by RNCOS on October - 27 - 2009 As per our recently published research report Indian Gems and Jewellery Market Future Prospects to 2011, gems and jewellery market in India posses tremendous potential for future growth since it has an added advantage of low production cost and highly skilled labor that separate it from its competitors. It is projected that the overall gems and jewellery market will grow at a CAGR of around 14% during 2009-2012. India possesses worlds most competitive gems and jewellery market due to its low cost of production and availability of skilled labor. As per our new research report Indian Gems and Jewellery Market - Future Prospects to 2011, highly skilled and low cost manpower, along with strong government support in the form of incentives and establishment of SEZs, has been the major driver for the Indian gems and jewellery market. The market also plays a vital role in the Indian economy as it is a leading foreign exchange earner and accounts for more than 12% of Indias total exports. Currently the Indian market remains highly fragmented, but is rapidly transforming into an organized sector. Currently, the industry is facing a slowdown due to global economic turmoil. But due to various government efforts and incentives coupled with private sector initiatives, the Indian gems and jewellery sector is expected to grow at a CAGR of around 14% from 2009 to 2012. At present, the Indian gems and jewellery market is dominated by the unorganized sector; however, the trend is set to change in near future with the branded jewellery market growing at an expected CAGR of more than 41% in the coming four years. As per our research report, with its

consumption pegged at nearly 20%, India remains worlds largest gold consumer and this share is expected to grow further. Given the fact that majority of market share is occupied by family-owned jewelers, the domination of unorganized segment still continues on the Indian gems and jewellery market. However, this scenario is gradually changing with the entrance of organized players who primarily focus on customer satisfaction by giving better and finer quality products. Thus, consumers are now moving towards branded jewellery which is more reliable in terms of quality and design. With changing customers attitude towards branded jewellery and entrance of organized players in the market, this segment will grow at much faster pace (annual growth of more than 40%) than the overall jewellery market in coming years, said a Research Analyst at RNCOS. The future outlook given in the report is based on past growth trends, current industry and regulatory developments besides base drivers, opportunities and challenges faced by the gems and jewellery industry in India.

LATEST DEVELOPMENTS Latest Development in Gems and Jewellery Gems and Jewellery symbolise Indian tradition in a lot many ways. A legacy that passes from one generation to another, the components of jewellery include not only conventional gold but also diamond, platinum accompanied by a variety of precious` and semi-precious stones.

The Indian gems and jewellery sector is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of around 13 per cent during 2011 2013, on the back of increasing government efforts and incentives coupled with private sector initiatives, according to a report 'Indian Gems and Jewellery Market Forecast to 2013', by RNCOS.

The diamond industry in India is predicted to remain stable during 2010-11 due to improved prices and steady demand, as per the credit rating agency Crisil.

On the back of healthy demand from Western markets like the US and Europe, India's gems and jewellery exports rose by about 22 per cent year-on-year (y-o-y) to US$ 2.86 billion in January 2011.

Rajiv Jain, Chairman, Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), said that they are expecting the jewellery exports to surpass the target of US$ 30 billion in 2010-11. At the Basel World 2011 show in Switzerland held recently, Mr Jain said that Indias gems and jewellery exports are estimated to rise by an impressive 35 per cent in 2011.

Industry Structure

Although the market is highly dominated by unorganised players, with increase in consumer income and economic prosperity, the future of organised branded jewellery in India is very bright.

In its bid to enhance the market strategy, a gems and jewellery special economic zone (SEZ) sprawling over 40 acres with an investment of US$ 441.1 million is being planned to be set up by Gold Souk, the jewellery mall developer. The company plans to have residential apartments named Gold Souk City, apart from having gems and jewellery manufacturers from Thailand and Dubai who will open their units in India. The US and European markets constitute about 60 per cent of Indias gems and jewellery exports. Indian exporters are also exploring other new markets including South America and East Asia in order to reduce their dependency on the West.

Gold

India is one of the largest bullion markets in the world. It has been until now, the undisputed single-largest Gold bullion consumer. As per the study Heart of gold' by the World Gold Council (WGC), the industry association for the gold industry, India owns over 18,000 tones of above-ground gold stocks (all physical and gold holdings, including private, Reserve Bank of India and institutional) worth around US$ 800 billion.

WGC maintains a highly positive outlook on gold demand for future considering a 30 per cent

jump in the imports during December 2010. For the quarter ended December 31 2010, India's gold jewellery demand rose 47 per cent to 210.5 tone from a year ago, the WGC data showed.

India's share of global demand, which stood at 16 per cent in 2009, rose to 25 per cent in 2010. The country is also the biggest buyer of gold jewellery with a 20 per cent share of the market.

Gold import is likely to rise by 15 per cent in 2011 to around 805 tones, as compared to 2010 due to growing demand for gems and jewellery, according to Vinod Hayagriv, Chairman, All India Gems and Jewellery Trade Federation.

In terms of the percentage share held in gold of total foreign reserves, as calculated by the World Gold Council, India stood at 11th position with 557.7 tones of gold and 8.5 per cent of gold reserves.

Diamond

India is the largest diamond cutting and polishing centre in the world, accounting for about 95 percent share of the global market by number of pieces. The country is also the third largest consumer of polished diamonds.

Surat is India's diamond processing hub, contributing over 80 per cent of the country's diamond processing industry with annual revenue of around US$ 13.03 billion.

The diamond jewellery industry grew 30 per cent in calendar year 2010, as consumers are attracted towards using items as both luxury fashion and investment. The industry is set to continue its growth momentum this year.

During calendar year 2011, it is poised for 20 per cent growth.

Platinum

Due to the increasing gold prices, platinum jewellery has gained momentum in the past few years not only worldwide but also in India. As per the Platinum Guild International (India), the number of outlets selling platinum jewellery increased from 12 in 2000-01 to over 300 currently. It is predicted that the number of outlets selling platinum jewellery would increase to around 1,000 outlets in the next 2-3 years. Most platinum jewellery manufacturers are targeting 20-40 years age group consumers with high disposable income.

Costume jewellery

The Indian costume jewellery market is also witnessing growth in the international market, as per the Export Promotion Council for Handicrafts. The industry body further stated that the Government is also working towards formulating an international compliance code for manufacturing costume jewellery.

The current global costume jewellery and accessories market is estimated at US$ 16.3 billion, of which India only exports around US$ 53 million, thereby, providing a huge opportunity area for the Indian costume manufacturers.

Exports

Gems and jewellery exports from India, the largest supplier, rose by 39 per cent in the April 2010-January 2011 period, according to the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council.

Shipments increased to US$ 30.6 billion from US$ 22 billion a year earlier, the trade group said on its website, citing provisional estimates. Exports in January 2011 gained 22 per cent to US$ 2.9 billion.

Exports of cut and polished diamonds saw the maximum growth of 23.44 per cent year-on-year in January 2011, followed by gold jewellery (15.38 per cent) and colored gemstones (3.8 per cent), as per the GJEPC data.

During the April 2010-January 2011, period, exports of precious items increased by 38.81 percent to US$ 30.59 billion in comparison to the same period last fiscal.

Government Initiatives

In order to open a new avenue for the bullion trader community with improved trading practices and increased delivery centres, the recent strategic tie-up between Bombay Bullion Association (BBA) and Indian Commodity Exchange Ltd (ICEX) has opened an avenue to harness the huge investment potential lying with the small and the unorganised players. It further offers membership to all the BBA members. It jointly deepens the markets in order to encourage wider participation, by providing multiple delivery centres across the country by leveraging on MMTC's and BBA's pan-India network. BBA will be an important stake holder in exchange's efforts in strengthening the delivery infrastructure and also in launching customised contracts suited to requirements of Indian markets.

In a move to boost the industry, the government has formulated new rules for faster clearance of import and export consignments of specific goods including jewellery and gems.

Furthermore, the government has incorporated some other measures like providing interest subvention of two per cent to labour intensive export sectors and duty drawback facilities, in order to promote gems and jewellery export.

The Road Ahead

The Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council has initiated IIJS Signature to promote India as the preferred source for jewellery and eventually build brand 'India'. Signature was conceptualised to showcase India's ability to produce quality jewellery that will match the lifestyle trends world over.

European diamond certifying agency, EGL (European Gemological Laboratory) is setting up a diamond certifying laboratory in Ahmedabad, the sixth for the company in India. EGL has laid out ambitious plans to expand its presence in the country in 2011. The global diamond certification agency has so far five laboratories located in New Delhi, Kolkata, Bengaluru and Mumbai.

Further, the All India Gems & Jewellery Trade Federation (GJF) recently held the first of its kind leadership summit for the jewellery industry in an effort to corporatise the ways of working and streamlining policies.

The emergence of branded gold jewellery In the late 1990s, the Indian jewellery market witnessed a shift in consumer perceptions of jewellery. Instead of being regarded as only an investment option, jewellery was being prized for its aesthetic appeal. In other words, the focus seemed to have shifted from content to

design. Trendy, affordable and lightweight jewellery soon gained familiarity. Branded jewellery also gained acceptance forcing traditional jewelers to go in for branding. Given the opportunities the branded jewellery market offered; the number of gold retailers in the country increased sharply. Branded players such as Tanishq, Oyzterbay, Kisna and Carbon opened outlets in various parts of the country. Traditional jewelers also began to bring out lightweight jewellery, and some of them even launched their in-house brands. However, the share of branded jewellery in the total jewellery market was still small (about Rs. 10 billion of the Rs. 400 billion per annum jewellery market in 2002), though growing at a pace of 20 to 30 percent annually The branded jewellery segment occupied only a small share of the total jewellery market because of the mindset of the average Indian buyer who still regarded jewellery as an investment. Moreover, consumers trusted only their family jewelers when buying jewellery. Consequently, the branded jewellery players tried to change the mindset of the people and woo customers with attractive designs at affordable prices.

Gold Jewellery Market in India Before the liberalization of the Indian economy in 1991, only the Minerals and Metals Trading Corporation of India (MMTC) and the State Bank of India (SBI) were allowed to import gold. The abolition of the Gold Control Act in 1992, allowed large export houses to import gold freely Exporters in export processing zones were allowed to sell 10 percent of their produce in the domestic market. In 1993, gold and Gold ornaments mining were opened up for private investors and foreign investors were allowed to own half the equity in mining ventures. In 1997, overseas banks and bullion suppliers were also allowed to import gold into India. These measures led to the entry of foreign players like DeBeers, Tiffany and Cartiers into the Indian market. In the 1990s, the number of retail jewellery outlets in India increased greatly due to the abolition of the Gold Control Act. This led to a highly fragmented and unorganized jewellery market with an estimated 100,000 workshops supplying over 350,000 retailers, mostly familyowned, single shop operations. In 2001, India had the highest demand for gold in the world; 855 tons were consumed a year, 95% of which was used for jewellery. The bulk of the jewellery purchased in India was designed in the traditional Indian style. Jewellery was fabricated mainly in 18, 22 and 24-carat gold. As Hallmarking was not very common in India, under-carat age was prevalent. According to a survey done by the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS), most gold jewellery advertised in India as 22-carat was of a lesser quality. Over 80% of the jewelers sold gold jewellery ranging from 13.5 carats to 18 carats as 22-carat gold jewellery.

The late 1990s saw a number of branded jewellery players entering the Indian market. Titan sold gold jewellery under the brand name Tanishq, while S.P.Jewellers Jewels, a Mumbai-based jewellery exporter, sold 18-carat gold jewellery under the brand name Kisna. S.P.Jewellers Jewels also started selling 24-carat gold jewellery in association with a Thai company, Pranda. Su-Raj (India) Ltd. launched its collection of Gold ornaments and 22 -carat gold jewellery in 1997. The Mumbai-based group, Beautiful, which marketed the Tiffany range of products in India, launched its own range of studded 18-carat jewellery, Dagina. Cartiers entered India in 1997 in a franchise agreement with Ravissant. Other players who entered the Indian branded gold jewellery market during the 1990s and 2000-01 included Intergold Gem Ltd., Oyzterbay, Carbon and Tribhovandas Bhimji Zaveri (TBZ). Kisna: In 1994, Kisna Jewellery was established as a distinct brand by S.P.Jewellers Jewels, soon after the abolition of the Gold Control Act by the Indian government. Kisna offered a wide range of 18-carat plain gold and Gold ornaments-studded jewellery, designed for the contemporary Indian woman. The designs combined both the Indian and western styles and motifs. With sales of Rs.0.14 billion for the year 2000-01, Kisna had a 0.03 percent share of the 400 billion jewellery market in India and a 1.4 percent share of the branded jewellery market. Tanishq: In 1984, Questar Investments Limited (a Tata group company) and the Tamil Nadu Industrial Development Corporation Limited (TIDCO) jointly promoted Titan Watches Limited (Titan). Initially involved in the watches and clocks business, Titan later ventured into the jewellery businesses. In 1995, Titan changed its name from 'Titan Watches Ltd.' to 'Titan

Industries Ltd.' in order to change its image from that of a watch manufacturer to that of a fashion accessories manufacturer. In the same year, it also started its jewellery division under the Tanishq brand. Among the branded jewellery players in the Indian market, Tanishq is considered to be a trendsetter. When it was launched in 1995, Tanishq began with 18-carat jewellery. Realizing that such jewellery did not sell well in the domestic market, the 18-carat jewellery range was expanded to include 22 and 24-carat ornaments as well. When Tanishq was launched, it sold most of its products through multibrand stores. In 1998, Tanishq decided to set up its own chain of retail showrooms to create a distinctive brand image. By 2002, Tanishq retailed its jewellery through 53 exclusive stores across 41 cities. To meet increasing demand, Tanishq planned to open 70 stores by the end of 2003 and offer a range of 'wearable' products with prices starting at Rs. 400. With sales of Rs. 2.66 billion in 2000-01, Tanishq had a 0.66 percent share of the total jewellery market and a 27 percent share of the branded jewellery market. Carbon: In early 1991, the Bangalore based Peakok Jewellery Pvt. Ltd., (Peakok) was incorporated and Mahesh Rao (Rao) was appointed director. Peakok realized that the Indian consumer's relationship with gold jewellery would grow beyond an investment need towards a lifestyle and personality statement. In 1996, within the Peakok fold a new brand of 18-carat gold-based jewellery called Carbon was launched. In 2000-01, with sales of Rs. 0.14 billion, carbon had a 0.03 percent share of the jewellery market and a 1.4 percent share of the branded jewellery market. The company expected

Carbon sales to touch Rs. 1.5 billion by 2005-06 and exports to start by 2008. The brand was available at 40 outlets in 16 cities in 2002 and would be made available in 23 cities by 2005. Oyzterbay: Oyzterbay was founded by Vasant Nangia and his team in July 2000. It began operations in March 2001. By November 2002, the company had 41 outlets across the country. Oyzterbay seeks to build a national brand in the jewellery industry in India and aspires to be the largest branded jewellery company in the country with a chain of 100 stores and several hundred-distribution points by 2004. With sales of Rs. 0.17 billion in 2000-01, Oyzterbay had a 0.04 percent share of the Rs.400 billion jewellery market and a 1.7 percent share of the branded jewellery market Trendsmith: Mumbai-based Tribhovandas Bhimji Zaveri (TBZ), which had been in the jewellery business since 1864, saw tremendous scope in the branded segment and opened its new concept store 'Trendsmith' in Mumbai in December 2001. Encouraged by the response towards its first store, the Zaveris planned to take Trendsmith (India) Pvt. Ltd. all over the nation by opening as many as 50 stores by 2006. Trendsmith offered eight lines of exclusive designer jewellery from well-known export jewellery manufacturers and designers from Mumbai and Delhi. BRANDED GOLD JEWELLERY MARKET (MAJOR PLAYERS)

Brand

Market share (2000-01) in %)

Tanishq

27.0

Oyzterbay

1.7

Kisna

1.4

Carbon

1.4

Source: ICFAI Centre for Management Research. Gold Jewellery Becomes Fashion Accessory Till the early 1990s, the average Indian bought jewellery for investment rather than for adornment. Jewellery made of 18-karat gold was not favored as it was considered a poor investment. Confidence in the local jeweler was the hallmark of the gold jewellery trade in India. A jeweler or goldsmith in a local area had a fixed and loyal clientele. The buyer had implicit faith in his jeweler. Additionally, the local jeweler catered to the local taste for traditional jewellery. However, since the late 1990s, there was a shift in consumer tastes: women were increasingly opting for fashionable and lightweight jewellery instead of traditional chunky jewellery. There was a rise in demand for lightweight jewellery, especially from consumers in the 16 to 25 age group, who regarded jewellery as an accessory and not an investment. The new millennium witnessed a definite change in consumer preferences. According to Samrat Zaveri, CEO of Trendsmith, "Research shows that the Indian jewellery sector is in the transition phase with consumers' desire for possession of jewellery for its aesthetic appeal and not as a form of investment."

In October 2002, Trendsmith conducted a survey to understand the shifting needs, motivations and aspirations of consumers in the jewellery market, and to identify new trends and opportunities. The research study arrived at the following conclusions:

The Indian market was witnessing an accelerated shift from viewing jewellery as an investment to regarding it as aesthetically appealing ornaments. The focus had shifted from content to design. The younger generation was looking at trendy, contemporary jewellery and clearly avoiding heavy, traditional gold jewellery. The consumer wanted a wider selection at a single convenient location and expected an international shopping experience. The Indian consumer was willing to experiment with new designs. The late 1990s and early 2000s, with the increase in the number of designers from design schools such as the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), a wide range of new designs.

Strategies for Wooing Customers Tanishq

In the late 1990s, players in the branded gold jewellery market formulated strategies for wooing customers. According to Jacob Kurian (Kurian), Chief Operating Officer of Tanishq, the challenges were many. As the jewellery market was highly fragmented, lacked branding, and allowed many unethical practices to flourish, Tanishq worked hard on a two-pronged brandbuilding strategy: cultivate trust by educating customers about the unethical practices in the business and change the perception of jewellery as a high-priced purchase. Said Kurian, "We are changing the attitudes of customers from blind trust to informed trust." To increase its market share, Tanishq formulated a strategy for luring people away from traditional neighborhood jewelers. Tanishq's strategy was to create differentiation and build trust. According to Kurian, the first part of the strategy was "to provide a point of differentiation in a highly commoditized category - which is the whole point of branding." The second part of the strategy was to project Tanishq as an unimpeachable mark of trust. According to Kurian, "If differentiation plays the role of primary attraction, trust takes care of lifelong loyalty. One way to create differentiation was through design. The emphasis had to be on design because local jewelers could offer to design any pattern according to the customer's specifications. For a national brand a generic design concept with regional variations had to be evolved. For this, Tanishq set up a seven member in-house design team and also outsourced designs from freelance designers. The designers travelled the length and breadth of the country to get

feedback on Tanishq's designs and learn about customer preferences. On the basis of this feedback, each showroom could select the designs it would carry. Brand appeal Branded jewellery has found a niche for itself in the tough Indian market, and its increasing growth rates show that before long it will corner a significant share of the jewellery market. WITH the retail industry in India burgeoning, several companies have made inroads into the traditional jewellery industry, selling the product that was never really "marketed" in "brand" new ways. So much so that branded jewellery is the new mantra in the market, having rapidly acquired a niche over the past few years. Some of the companies have even cleverly played on Indian customs and tradition to advertise and establish their brands. Jewellery is now marketed for every occasion; even Valentine's Day calls for "a special something [Gold ornaments] for a special someone". In spite of pessimism about the marketability of branded jewellery in a country rooted in buying ornaments from the traditional goldsmith, 30 brands were launched in 2004. However, this does not take away from the fact that India is a tough market. According to Mehul Choksi of the D'Damas and S.P.Jewellers Group, branded jewellery has witnessed more than 50 per cent growth in the last three years. The Gold ornaments branded jewellery, he says, is especially impressive with the segment witnessing a 20 per cent rise annually as against 10 per cent a decade ago. Although branded jewellery accounts for less than 10 per cent of the Rs.40,000-crore jewellery market, a study has concluded that it is growing in popularity at a tremendous pace of 20-30

per cent annually. Such is the potential of this industry that the consulting firm McKinsey estimates the branded jewellery market in India to grow at the rate of 40 per cent per annum to touch Rs.10,000 crores by 2010. Big drivers of this kind of jewellery are the numerous malls opening across the country with the emergence of an affluent class following the successful growth of the new economy companies. In the past decade, the country has seen a section of the population gaining exposure to designer wear, fashion accessories and globally branded products. "Why not have accesses to them?" asks Rima Khan, a brand executive. "Of course jewellery is harder to brand but it has done well given the tough competition," she says. One of the reasons branded jewellery is doing well is that now anyone can walk into a mall, window shop and decides at their own what they would like to buy. The entire culture of shopping has changed with attentive and helpful attendants and well-displayed products. "You no longer have the sales staff who look at you and decide whether you are worth serving or not. Everyone is a potential customer in the new market," says Rima Khan. Yet the most important part of branded jewellery is that you can get a piece of jewellery with a Gold ornaments for as little as Rs.1,500. And as branded is equated with quality, you are assured of a good product. "Suddenly jewellery has become accessible and affordable for all income brackets." The shift was visible in 2004 when more than 30 players entered the market. Today there are more than 50 brands, endorsed by models, film actors, sports celebrities and other well-known faces. Some designs of these brands are so popular that local jewelers have begun to copy

them. "While it is a compliment to the industry that people like the product, it could also affect the company because the cost may be lower," says Rima Khan. The biggest challenge perhaps is in educating the consumer. Consumers need to understand the four Cs - Cut, Carat, Color and Clarity. Companies that brand their products place a lot of emphasis on educating and therefore helping the customer make his purchase. "Buying jewellery is a very personal thing and we need to understand what we are buying," says Seema Thakur, an attendant in a jewellery store at a mall in Mumbai. "We have an average of 50 people on a week day and at least 100 on a weekend who walk in and look around the shop. If you make the product look special, for instance, appeal to a young gentleman to buy it for a loved one, he is often interested." And the big selling point is: "If you can spend Rs.1,000 on two music CDs, why not spend for that special person in your life." The branded jewellery industry is still in its infancy, but increasing growth rates show that in a short time it will corner a significant chunk of the market. Perhaps the best compliment to the branded segment is that old jewellery showrooms have also begun to design jewellery lines under a brand name.

Indian Customers Showing Interest in Branded Jewellery As per our recently published research report Indian Gems and Jewellery Market Future Prospects to 2011, gems and jewellery market in India posses tremendous potential for future growth since it has an added advantage of low production cost and highly skilled labor that

separate it from its competitors. It is projected that the overall gems and jewellery market will grow at a CAGR of around 14% during 2009-2012. India possesses worlds most competitive gems and jewellery market due to its low cost of production and availability of skilled labor. As per our new research report Indian Ge ms and Jewellery Market - Future Prospects to 2011, highly skilled and low cost manpower, along with strong government support in the form of incentives and establishment of SEZs, has been the major driver for the Indian gems and jewellery market. The market also plays a vital role in the Indian economy as it is a leading foreign exchange earner and accounts for more than 12% of Indias total exports. Currently the Indian market remains highly fragmented, but is rapidly transforming into an organized sector. Currently, the industry is facing a slowdown due to global economic turmoil. But due to various government efforts and incentives coupled with private sector initiatives, the Indian gems and jewellery sector is expected to grow at a CAGR of around 14% from 2009 to 2012. At present, the Indian gems and jewellery market is dominated by the unorganized sector; however, the trend is set to change in near future with the branded jewellery market growing at an expected CAGR of more than 41% in the coming four years. As per our research report, with its consumption pegged at nearly 20%, India remains worlds largest gold consumer and this share is expected to grow further. Given the fact that majority of market share is occupied by family-owned jewelers, the domination of unorganized segment still continues on the Indian gems and jewellery market. However, this scenario is gradually changing with the entrance of organized players who

primarily focus on customer satisfaction by giving better and finer quality products. Thus, consumers are now moving towards branded jewellery which is more reliable in terms of quality and design. Traditional v/s Branded jewelers Gems and Jewellery sales and marketing received a facelift with the advent of the supermarket culture. As organized retail in India progresses to the next lap, Sadanand Subramanian checks for Gold ornaments World with some precious Industry players about their preparedness and strategy to achieve maximum mileage. As India reacts to a retail revolution, the hitherto sober gems and jewellery industry seems to have jumped on the bandwagon with a clear plan of action. The industry has already made a mark by capturing 3 per cent of the organized retail space thanks to the leadership shown by a handful of companies prepared to dazzle the world. While organized retail under this segment impressively grows at over 50 per cent annually, deliberations are on to arrive at what the industry in general must do to keep the customer perennially delighted. The gems and jewellery market in India is estimated to be about Rs.80,000 crores and the topmost agenda is to adopt the right strategy to accelerate its growth keeping in mind current global dynamics. For now the industry faces keen competition from other luxury goods such as electronic innovations and other personal accessories. How far is it necessary for the gems and jewellery sector to seriously consider it?

There is no doubt that things are a lot more organized in stores inside malls. They also showcase and present products very attractively. But in my opinion, real sales take place through traditional jewellery stores as jewellery is mainly sold on trust. Ghanshyam Dholakia The urgency in the industry indicates rapid changes in the way goods are produced and marketed. The evolution of new formats for sale and the massive technology and to some extent, sizeable infrastructural developments taking place all foretell a prospect of growth way beyond the current overall 10 per cent. The Indian gems and jewellery industry boasts a strength of over 3 lakh jewellery retailers across the length and breadth of this country. The huge number indicates strength in itself but it also indicates a difficult diversity to grapple with when exploring common grounds to formulate united approaches to tackle common concerns. Organized V/s Traditional Retail Comparisons have always been drawn between organized retail and traditional retail. Attempts have always been made to define them. Rooting for organized retail, Navneet Goenka, ViceChairman of Goenka Gold ornaments and Jewels says, Right now organized retail seems to have wrested an edge over traditional retail. Goenka argues that the indications to this effect are seen in the manner large proportions of the society are becoming lifestyle oriented, especially the younger generation. When considering Indias statistic of having the highest percentage of youth in the world, this observation cannot be taken lightly. Goenka says that the gems and jewellery sector is one of the fastest growing segments. He adds, The young

generation today has more disposable income and they are willing to spend it on luxuries of choice. Ghanshyam Dholakia, partner, Harikrisha Exports holds a different view with regard to the tussle for supremacy over the two formats. There is no doubt that things are a lot more organized in stores inside malls, he concedes. They also showcase and present products very attractively. But in my opinion, real sales take place through traditional jewellery stores as jewellery is mainly sold on trust. While explaining his point of view, he adds, To the credit of traditional jewellery stores they also have upgraded themselves in various ways including the overall ambience in the last five to ten years. They are also changing themselves in the matters of presentation and the customer approach. Dholakia says that in promotions and awareness creation, traditional retailers have realized its importance thereof and have started allocating sizeable budgets for them. Consequently this section has already started reaping the benefits of quality promotions by creating awareness about their products and services. Dholakia is some what emphatic with regard to modern day organized retail citadels, In my personal opinion malls mainly serve the purpose of promotion and show of products. I dont think a lot of gems and jewellery sale takes place in malls. Ashwin Shah, Head of Retail at C. Mahendra Exports holds a similar view with regard to jewellery sales at modern shopping malls. He opines, The sales that take place in a mall are of a very different kind. You can call it window shopping if you like. Shah elucidates his point, The young generation often resorts to some impulse buying. He stresses that serious buyers

who are looking for high value purchases for occasions such as weddings prefer to plan their jewellery shopping and eventually purchase from known reputed jewelers. Changes in Gems & Jewellery Retail Whilst organized retailers are ahead when it comes to taking care of the different aspects in the marketing and sales value chain, those in traditional retail are also changing or adapting to the needs of the modern customer in the areas of service and customer care. They too are improving their style of presenting and dealing with customers. In the past, jewelers didnt have much modern education. Today, there are a number of MBAs in these families and amongst key personnel employed by them, points out Ghanshyam Dholakia. Retailing the Organized Way

While complementing the planned approach by organized retail, Mahesh Gandani-Head Retail, Hari Krishna Exports says, We can see that times have changed and somewhere along the way, the whole approach to marketing has also undergone transformation. Gandani says that for branded Gold ornaments jewellery there is much planning involved. He says meticulous strategy is charted out, and there is systematic presentation of the product. All this goes on even as a product portfolio is made and promotions are carried out. Gandani says creating brand awareness in the minds of the consumers is all about adopting a few strategic steps. One might say the difference between traditional and organized is just doing and doing by planning.

Recent developments have been both a boon as well as a bane. Actually, this has spurred us on to become innovative with our offerings to suit the market. We have actually managed to reduce cost by adopting the strategy of reducing the volume of gold in some of our products to make it affordable. Ashwin Shah Speaking about organized retail, V. Muraleedharan, gems and jewellery professional and visiting faculty at well known management institutes in Mumbai says, The number of foreign brands coming into India is simply amazing. Brands that were only heard of a few years ago are today very much within anyones reach here. Muraleedharan goes on to explain, So far people who had only seen traditional offerings have started making intelligent international comparisons with Indian products and this has brought about real room for retail to grow a number of times. Well known brands have always insisted that when they talk about a particular grade, they are certified. Moreover the quality standard is confirmed and authorized and remains the same in any laboratory in the world. Muraleedharan says, In my opinion the quality a brand expresses, and the certification make it easy for a customer to confidently buy the product. The Value Proposition: Today everyone is looking for value for money, a new design, a new concept, something very creative and that is the concept of retail today. It is not like yesterday where the shopkeeper or the manufacturer used to dominate. Today, the customer is going for customized designs; the whole concept is changing, says Muralidharan. The consumer is looking for value for money, when they buy Gold ornamentss. They like to buy from reputed players like example Tanishq,

S.P.Jewellers, Goenka, Nakshatra, Kiah and Nirvana. All of whom have achieved very organized presence in the market today. Each one of them has a standard quality certification internationally and that is what is going in the minds of the customer when they talk about buying from the organized sector.