Prospect and Preservation: Tuckahoe Plantations Landscape

An Historical Study of the Gardens and Greater Landscape

Prepared for The Garden Club of Virginia Prepared by Hannah Verdi Warfield 2008 Rudy J. Favretti Fellow

Acknowledgements It is an honor to have been awarded the 2008 Rudy J. Favretti Fellowship. The opportunity to research and document such an important Virginia landscape has been a fulfilling achievement, allowing me to study in depth the stories of people and how they shaped the land around them. I am indebted to Will Rieley, landscape architect for the Garden Club of Virginia for his expertise and enthusiasm throughout the course of my research. He served as a supportive mentor, providing direction when needed while allowing the process of my research to develop naturally. Thank you, Will. Many thanks to the Thompson family of Tuckahoe. Their storytelling, lifetimes of oral history and memories shared, have been invaluable to my research. I will be forever grateful for their generosity and continued commitment to the preservation of such an extraordinary historic site.

Copyright 2008 by The Garden Club of Virginia. All Rights Reserved. Reproduction: All material contained herein is the intellectual property of the Garden Club of Virginia except where noted. Permission for reproduction, except for personal use, must be obtained from: The Fellowship Committee, Chair The Garden Club of Virginia The Kent-Valentine House 12 East Franklin Street Richmond, VA 23219 www.gcvirginia.org

I. II. III. IV. V. VI. VII. VIII. IX. X. XI. XII. XIII. XIV. XV. XVI.

Preface The Eighteenth Century Landscape Thomas of Tuckahoe William Randolph II Gabriella Harvie and son, Thomas Mann Randolph II The Wight Family The Allen Family 1892 Restoration of the Randolph Cemetery The Coolidge Family Jefferson Schoolhouse Restoration 1892-1919 The Landscape of the Coolidge Period Arthur A. Shurcliff 1929-1935 The Baker Thompson Family The Gillette Garden Preservation During the Baker/Thompson Ownership Addison B. Tad and Susan C. Sue Thompson 1977-Present Riverview and Terraced South Bank The Memorial Garden Plantation Street The Herb Garden Vegetable and Cutting Garden Hurricane Isabel 2005 Ground Penetrating Radar Survey 2007 Tuckahoe Today

XVII. Bibliography

I. Preface Tuckahoe Plantation is a National Historic Landmark located in Goochland County, Virginia. It was added to the National Register of Historic Sites in 1969, being recognized as a unique example of early American architecture with numerous outbuildings dating back to the 18th century. The plantation also has national and international significance for its connection to Thomas Jefferson, who lived at the plantation during his youth and was formally educated for the first time at the estate. Tuckahoe is well known for its social history as an original seat of the Randolphs of Virginia, a family of great political and social power in the early colony. Tuckahoe has been owned and influenced by five families throughout its history. Each family has contributed to the landscape itself and the body of knowledge that has survived through written word, oral histories, legends, photographs, and images. In the twentieth century, many landscape architects studied and contributed their expertise to Tuckahoes landscape including Arthur Shurcliff, Fletcher Steele and Charles Gillette. This research spans a time period of over three centuries on an estate of over six hundred acres. The intention is not to be comprehensive, but rather highlight areas of the landscape that either have not yet been interpreted, are under threat or are most historically significant. Areas where further research is needed have been noted. This paper will investigate the history of Tuckahoes landscape and gardens since its founding in 1695. The analysis of the landscape has been organized chronologically by the distinct periods of ownership. Telling the story of each family and their treatment of the landscape will help unveil the early landscape of this most important historic site. Welcome to Tuckahoe....
The view of the lawn in 1909, above and in 2009, below right.

This genealogy shows Jeffersons link to the Randolphs through his mothers side. It also shows the direct line of the Coolidge family through Thomas Mann Randolph II of Edgehill and their relationship to Jefferson.

It is interesting to note the double relationship through the marriage of Thomas Mann Randolph of Edgehill and Martha Jefferson, Thomas Jeffersons daughter.

II. The Eighteenth Century Landscape The Randolphs as a family held a tremendous amount of political, social, and economic power during the eighteenth century in Virginia. This period of Randolph history is characterized by the acquisition of productive land, numerous offspring, and marriages that improved or reinforced their social status. William Randolph (1651?-1711) of Turkey Island, emigrated to America in 1669. He married a colonists daughter, Mary Isham of Bermuda Hundred and had seven sons and two daughters. The combination of numerous sons and large land holdings reinforced the Randolphs position of power in the early colony. As stated by Eckenrode in The Randolphs, William of Turkey Island was an economic and political strategist, he planted his sons along the James River in situations where they individually profited and furthered the prestige and power of the family.1 He acquired the land on which Tuckahoe now stands in 1695, through a grant for 1221 acres. This initial grant included the low ground, the high ground land on which the house was built and the island in the James River. According to local tradition, Tuckahoe boasts the last considerably wide expanse of lowground, the most fertile soil for agriculture. In addition, William obtained another 3,256 acres adjoining the original land to the east. In his will, dated 1711, he left his son Thomas a tract equal to one of his brothers portion but it did not include the site on which the house was built. In 1714, Thomas of Tuckahoe acquired the house site, a portion of the low ground and the island from his brother John. Together with his inherited tract, he named the property, Tuckahoe.

Eckenrode

Tuckahoe Plantation is located above the fall line which bisects downtown Richmond and was at the edge of the western frontier at the time of its settlement. The house was built on a steep bluff, with a commanding prospect over the James River and floodplain. The modern view of the house from the James River is nearly identical to this historic photograph, circa 1900. The view of the house from the river was an important one as was the view of the James from the home-site.

The natural features of the landscape made it attractive to both Native Americans and early settlers such as the Randolphs. The low grounds of Tuckahoe along the James are part of a fertile floodplain that was highly prized for its productivity.

A significant number of artifacts have been found on the estate and serve as evidence that the land was also used by Native Americans. The Monacan people inhabited the area prior to colonization and their dominion extended west of Tuckahoe along the bank of the James. The word, Tuckahoe is Algonquian in origin and refers to an edible marsh plant. Peltandra virginica, a starchy tuber found in low-lying areas, was revered by the native peoples as an important food source. The plant is still plentiful along Tuckahoe Creek to the east, for which the waterway was named. Tuckahoe Creek meanders and forks before it merges with the James River, creating the island known as Randolph Island and Tuckahoe Island.

This T copy of an old map, found amon ng family pap pers in the C Coolidge Scr rapbook, sho ows Tuckaho oe and its rel lation to the city of Rich hmond, on th he James Riv ver. When T Tuckahoe w was

first established, it was w the large est plantation n west of the fall-line, d designated in n this illustra ation by sectio on of stipling g by Richmo ond. The ori iginal tract h held the last t large portio on of the wide flood plain on the Jam mes before the t river nar rrows to the west. This alluvial soil l of the floodplain was highly y sought aft ter for early agricultural l pursuits. Since 1714, th he land and Randolph se ettlement ha as always be een known b by the name Tuckaho oe. The early y 18th centu ury would be e the period of historic s significance for the site a and guide pre eservation and restoration efforts of f each succes ssive owners ship. The or riginal size o of contiguo ous Randolph h land associated with Tuckahoe T is not known. Since its ear rly beginnin ngs in 1695, the e tract of lan nd on which Tuckahoe now n stands h has grown an nd diminished in size, an nd experienced periods of neglect, revival r and restoration r u under chang ging ownersh hip. Its exist tence he families th hat owned T Tuckahoe, fo or their effor rts to mainta ain today is a testament to each of th the estate were great t. The five families f that t have owned d Tuckahoe have all left t their mark as e historic int tegrity of th he site. well as preserved the The T importan nce of Tucka ahoe, histori ically, was k known by eac ch successiv ve owner, and while the ey certainly made Tucka ahoe a home e, the buildin ngs have not t experienced considerab ble change. Tuckahoe T Pl lantation is regarded by y architectur ral historians s to be one o of the best examples s of the 18th h century pla antation layo out. The ori iginal arrangement of th he period structure es, road syst tems and ma ansion house e still exist to o create the bones wit th which to orient the overall rel lation of buil ldings and la andscape. W While mainte enance of th he original structure es seemed to o have been a priority th hroughout T Tuckahoes history, the la andscape wo ould experience great cha ange over tim me. During times of eco onomic succe ess, owners of Tuckahoe e e landscape, adding gard dens and pla ant material. . Times of would invest more heavily in the h on these t elemen nts first, wit th priority sh hifting to ma aintenance o of hardship would fall heaviest structure es.

Even though it is not known what the early gardens of Tuckahoe were comprised of during the 18th century, the house itself tells a story of the historic use of the landscape. The layout of the house is of an H shape, with doors open to all four directions. It is the symmetry of the mansions design that establishes the balance of space in the landscape. As one examines the quadrants created by the layout of the house, an ancient organization of the landscape is revealed.

The north commands a view of lane approach, while the south door welcomes those from the terraces, river, rail and canal. The west door opens to the working side of the grounds containing the service yard and the many outbuildings lining Plantation Street. The east door, opens to the schoolhouse and garden spaces. The north, east and west sides of the immediate landscape have received the most attention in preservation. Namely, road transport outlived transport by the river, canal and railroad and thus the priorities in the landscape shifted over time. On the southern side of the house where the landscape is not used for frequent travel to the low-ground, the former landscape features are not as easily recognized in the abundant growth. It is natural that foot travel and the movement of goods must have followed the most efficient routes to the river, canal and railroad. It has been theorized numerous times throughout Tuckahoes history that terraces existed on the southern slope in the 18th century. Accounts of terraces only go back to the midnineteenth century but could have existed prior. In a 1941 study of Tuckahoes landscape, Fletcher Steele believed that grading is evident over the whole of the yard, and the sharp edge on the southern side was embellished somehow. The area to the east of the mansion house has historically been associated with the pleasure side of the grounds at Tuckahoe. This delineation may go back to the 18th century, however few accounts exist of gardens during the Randolph era. The known features of the landscape in the eighteenth century are predominantly structures.

The early design of the plantation laid out by the Randolphs has been well preserved for over two centuries. The number of outbuildings on their original site and in good condition is rare considering their wood construction. Plantation street is dotted with numerous 18th century dependencies: the overseers office, three original slave quarters, smokehouse, storehouse and old stable. The landscape of the Randolphs can also be studied in the layout of mature trees from early paintings and photographs. The Randolph cemetery and schoolhouse are the only existing features left from the 18th century landscape in this area, however the entire area east of the house has been a well-documented garden space through the ownership periods of the Allens, Coolidges, Bakers and Thompsons. Given that each family preserved historic structures of Tuckahoe so well, it would make sense that they would revive the existing garden space and build upon them, rather than start anew. . III. Thomas Randolph of Tuckahoe (1683-1729) Thomas was one of five sons of William Randolph of Turkey Island, the first Randolph in America. Each of his sons was known by the land they owned, hence the name, Thomas of Tuckahoe. Since 1709, Thomas had been working on the plantations of William Byrd II of Westover and was made general overseer in 1712, the same year he married Judith Fleming.2 This position would have afforded him access to the knowledge of how a plantation was set up and managed. It is probable that Thomas began construction of a dwelling after he purchased the tract from his brother in 1714. In 1720, Thomas Randolph undertook the construction of the Dover Church nearby, which he paid for with nearly 55,000 pounds of tobacco. He must have been well established in the area by this date to undertake such a project. It is widely accepted that Thomas Randolph was living on the property by 1723. He enlarged the estate at that time by 734 acres and it is mentioned in this deed that the newly acquired land lay next to land which Thomas Randolph occupied. This proves that a house stood somewhere on the same tract of land prior to the construction of the house known as Tuckahoe. Thomas of Tuckahoe died in 1729 at 46 years old, leaving a wife and son William, 16 years old. It is not known where the first structure was built by Thomas. There are no family records or accounts of this original house. Was this house torn down to build the existing structure? Did it burn? Was this first house site on the low ground to afford easier access to the river? Further research into the location of this original house site could prove useful in interpreting the earliest landscape of Tuckahoe. The fertile low-ground, Randolph Island, and the expansive high-ground provided a wealth of prosperity for Thomas who was the earliest planter of Tuckahoe.3 This prosperity was passed on to his only son, William, named for his grandfather of Turkey Island and heir to the Tuckahoe lands. The home as it is known today is credited to his son, William Randolph, based on the dates of construction. It is known that the Tuckahoe house was built in two phases; the North wing stood alone for a time and the rest of the mansion completed in a second phase. Based on results of a 1999 dendrochronological study of the house, these two phases were 1733 and 1740 respectively, therefore the construction and final design and layout of the H shape house is credited to William, son of Thomas of Tuckahoe.

2 3

Randolphs of Virginia Thompson

IV. William of Tuckahoe (1713-1745) William Randolph became master of Tuckahoe, as a young man of sixteen. He went on to attend the College of William and Mary after his fathers death in 1729. He married Maria Judith Page, of Rosewell Plantation in 1735, just two years after the north wing of Tuckahoe was constructed. Maria brought the great fortune of her inheritance to their union and it may have been with this new financial resource that the house was so rapidly completed with the addition of the center hyphen and south wing by1740. The outbuildings, laid out on axis with the house in an adjacent North South line, may have been laid out at the same time. William and Maria had four children by the time Maria died in 1742. William wrote his will as a newly widowed man. In this early will he outlined how his son should be educated and distributed property to his children. He later added that his son should be educated at home by tutors and asked that Peter and Jane Randolph Jefferson assume the care of Tuckahoe and his four small children. They were likely candidates; Peter was a friend and Jane his first cousin on the Randolph side. He also requested that a monument be erected to his parents Thomas and Judith Randolph and for his late wife Maria. Upon Williams death in 1745, the Jeffersons moved to Tuckahoe to care for the Randolph children and the estate. At this time, Thomas Jefferson was just over two years old. It has come down through Jefferson family lore that young Thomass first memory was that of this journey to Tuckahoe, on horseback from Shadwell. Peter Jefferson saw to the education of the Randolph children and young Thomas. He is credited with having a schoolhouse at Tuckahoe built for this purpose. Peter Jefferson managed all financial aspects of the plantation and kept account records for Tuckahoe between 1745 and 1757. According to Peter Jeffersons accounts, the income from the land came largely from tobacco, with supplemental profit from other endeavors. In one section of Peter Jeffersons accounts there is a listing of the tobacco crops from each of William Randolphs quarters during the period of 1745-1751, entitled, An Account of Tob at Col. Randolphs Quarters. Among the quarters listed are Rappahannock, Dover, Hatt Creek, Farrars Island, Fine Creek, Lower Quarter and Tuckahoe. Tuckahoe was listed as having some of the largest crop yields. The accounts also make reference to a Middle Quarter, however not in the tobacco account. The locations and relation of these different named Quarters could prove useful in determining the extent of the land managed by Peter Jefferson for William Randolph. Further research into these named locations is recommended. Profit from the land came from other endeavors, such as beef, wool and pork. The account books make reference to multiple mill operations in association with William Randolphs estate including Dover Mill, Little Mill and Fine Creek. They were leasing Little Mill and collecting money from operations at Dover Mill. Based on Peter Jeffersons accounts and the number of mills on the property or owned by the Randolphs of Tuckahoe, it appears that Tuckahoes cash crop of tobacco was being largely supplemented by grains as well. The landscape was ideal for milling operations, and William Randolphs estate either owned or were profiting from mills on Fine Creek, Dover Creek and Tuckahoe Creek, as recorded in the accounts. 4 In addition to monies collected for milling operations, the account reflects large sales of beef and pork. Wool was sold as well as blacksmithing services. It is not known exactly how long the Jeffersons remained at Tuckahoe. We know that Thomas Jefferson left Tuckahoe at nine years old; however his father continued to manage
4

Peter Jefferson farm accounts

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Tuckahoe accounts until 17555. After being schooled at the English School at Tuckahoe, young Thomas was sent to be schooled at St. James Northern Parish, only miles away to remain near his cousins at Tuckahoe. He was tutored at St. James by Rev. William Douglas until 1757, the same year his father died. Jefferson was just fourteen years old. It is possible that Jane Randolph Jefferson remained in the house at Tuckahoe during this three-year span until young Thomas Mann Randolph was old enough to manage Tuckahoe alone. He would have been 16 years old. V. Thomas Mann Randolph (1741-1793) Thomas Mann was raised to carry on the Randolph tradition of a planter family under the care of the Jeffersons from three years old until adolescence. He had increased the size of the plantation to over 2,660 acres by 1775.6 The plantation was a self-sufficient working community. The landscape in this height of economic success reflected the way of life in both form and function. They would have had orchards and gardens growing everything they needed. According to Martin in Pleasure Gardens of Virginia, The produce in the gardens, even if much of it was decoratively arranged, was a vital part of the household economy7. In 1782, Thomas Mann put out an ad in the Virginia Gazette looking to hire a man who understands malting, brewing, distilling.8 We can assume that the gardens reflected his prosperity, relative to the apparent success of greater plantation. Thomas Mann was also an avid breeder of Thoroughbred horses and kept and sold horses from Tuckahoe. He lists available studs on many occasions in the Gazette in the later part of the 18th century.9 Horses were kept for racing alone as early as the turn of the seventeenth century and racing was a favorite sport of the Virginia gentry during Thomas Mann Randolphs time. It would be interesting to research how the property may have been used for racing or training of these early thoroughbreds during Col. Thomas Randolphs era. According to an excerpt from Aubreys travels, Colonel Randolph possesses that fondness for horses, which I observed was peculiar to the Virginian of all stations, sparing no trouble, pains or expense, in importing the best stock, and improving the breed; and it was with no little pleasure he showed us a fine one named Shakespeare, which he imported just as the war commenced. There was a stable built purposely for this horse, in which was a recess for a bed for the negro who looked after it, that he might be with it at night.10 Thomas Jefferson and Thomas Mann Randolph continued a friendship throughout their adult lives. After all, this was his second cousin with whom he shared nine years of his childhood, living in the same house and attending the English school at Tuckahoe side by side. Jefferson made Tuckahoe a frequent stop on his visits to and from Richmond and Williamsburg
5 6

Peter Jefferson farm accounts Farm accounts 7 Martin, Peter. 8 Virginia Gazette 9 Gazette 10 Thomas Aubreys Travels

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between the years of 1770-1790. The friends and cousins exchanged letters, legal advice, familial news and other notes of interest. Unfortunately he never described the landscape of Tuckahoe which must have made a formative impression on young Thomas as a child. Jefferson mentioned Tuckahoe three times in his Garden Book, evidence that Thomas Mann was part of the exchange of plants, seeds and agricultural knowledge of the time. On March 15th, Jefferson planted the Cipolle bianchee di Tuckahoe, the Spanish Onion of Miller. In Jeffersons Garden Book, this is explained further in footnotes. The Cipolle bianchee simply means, white onion. This onion was also called the Spanish Onion by Philip Miller who wrote the Gardeners Dictionary published in 1759. Later that same season, on April 6th, he wrote in his Garden Book, Scarlet radish. Tuckahoe.. On March 16 1811, nearly twenty years after Col. Thomas Mann Randolphs death, Jefferson planted the Tuckahoe Grey Cherry which Jefferson received from an I. A. Coles as referenced in a letter dating Mar. 13th.11 Jefferson waited only three days to plant the seeds from his friend. This could mean that Tuckahoe was part of the exchange of agricultural and horticultural knowledge being shared at the time. Their friendship was further solidified with the marriage of Thomas Mann Randolph II of Edgehill, to Jeffersons daughter Martha, which pleased both fathers Thomas Mann Randolph II would become part of Jeffersons immediate family and be a prominent figure in his life.. Thomas Mann Randolph II (1768-1828) was regarded as a foremost botanist in his time, devoting his studies to scientific agriculture. 12 His sister Mary Randolph, also raised at Tuckahoe, went on to write The Virginia Housewife, an early cookbook that would revolutionize American cooking. Her blend of Native American ingredients and English recipes made it cutting-edge and was a favorite cookbook in its time. She references the garden and various fruits and vegetables that she had experience growing and using in her recipes.13 One of the only visitor accounts of Tuckahoes landscape from Thomas Mann Randolphs tenure at Tuckahoe was from the journal of Baron Von Closen. He described the wealth of the owner through his observances of the fine furniture and decor in the mansion. He also speaks just briefly of a garden.14 This is the earliest and only reference to a garden at Tuckahoe from the 18th century, one that has been poured over and interpreted for centuries. He simply states, We walked in a garden, at the foot of which there is a maze that led us to the James River. This stream is lined on both banks with very thick willows in which birds love to sing. The 18th century maze reference ignites intrigue because of a well-known historic maze at Tuckahoe, which survived into the 1970s. Dating the historic maze of Tuckahoe has been a difficult endeavor. The maze of English Boxwood nearly an acre in size, no longer exists but was known to be over a hundred years old when it finally succumbed to disease. The planting of the maze was referenced as early as 1898 and was an established mature planting by
Jefferson Garden Book (12, 17, 44) William Gaines, Thomas Mann Randolph, Jeffersons Son-in-Law, 1966 Louisiana State Universiy Baton Rouge 13 The Virginia Housewife 14 Journal of Baron von Closen
12 11

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that time. This garden has been the subject of great interest and has been well documented into the twentieth century. Was this the maze that Baron Von Closen mentioned in his account of Tuckahoe? It was more than likely not the garden of Tuckahoe in the 20th century. However, it is possible that an 18th century maze existed and the later garden served as a restoration of this early garden. Col. Randolph had thirteen children by his first wife, Anne Cary. His eldest son, Thomas Mann Randolph II, settled the Albemarle lands patented by William Randolph of Tuckahoe and is known by his estate, Edgehill. It is this son that married Martha Jefferson, Thomas Jeffersons daughter. He will be hereafter referred to as Thomas Mann Randolph II, of Edgehill to differentiate between him and his half-brother of the same name that inherited Tuckahoe. Shortly after the death of Anne Cary, Col. Randolph remarried Gabriella Harvie, a young woman of high social status. The aged man of 53 fathered another son by eighteen year old Gabriella and named this child, Thomas Mann Randolph II. He is commonly referred to as the III, or the baby to further differentiate between the two half-brothers. This peculiar twist in naming of two apparent heirs is important to note in tracing the history of Tuckahoe. His first namesake, Thomas Mann Randolph II, was thirty one when his father died and did not inherent any lands of Tuckahoe. The infant went on to inherit the home and plantation and is also known as the last Randolph of Tuckahoe. Col. Thomas Mann Randolph died in 1793 and his burial, according to descendants,15 was the last internment in the Randolph vault in the family cemetery at Tuckahoe16. He left the plantation to his infant son by Gabriella and the remainder of his property to his sons. To his daughters, he left his mill and surrounding land. Thomas Mann Randolph II, the child heir of Tuckahoe would not assume sole possession of his property until the passing of his mother, Gabriella Harvie Brockenbrough.

15 16

Weeks, Elie Weeks, Elie

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VI. Gabriella Harvie Randolph and son, Thomas Mann Randolph II (1792-1848) After Col. Thomas Mann Randolphs passing in 1793, Gabriella married John Brockenbrough. In 1797, the Brockenbroughs divided the property into two tracts; Lower Tuckahoe to the east and Upper Tuckahoe, the tract containing Tuckahoe house. John Brockenbrough listed Tuckahoe for lease in the Virginia Gazette17 in 1797. Tuckahoe was at that time about 2,000 acres and included in the lease was a valuable saw and grist mill, barn and all the proper out-houses. The Lower Tuckahoe house is said to have originally been an overseers house for Tuckahoe.18 It is presumed that John and Gabriella did not occupy Upper Tuckahoe.

Thomas Mann Randolph II was twenty years old when he married his first wife Harriet Wilson in 1813. From 1813 until 1830, Thomas Mann Randolph II lived with his family in the Tuckahoe house. Goochland County experienced great change and growth during Thomas Mann Randolph IIs tenure at Tuckahoe. By 1808 the James River Company had made over 200 miles of the James River navigable from Richmond to Botetourt County with the canal completed to the Tuckahoe Creek area by 1823 and Maidens dam by 1835.19 By 1835, the canal had bisected the Tuckahoe low grounds directly below the house site.

17 18

Gazette Goochland Today. 19 Facets

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This photograph of the canal and packet boats was taken near Tuckahoe. Photo courtesy of Goochland Historical Society.

High quality bituminous coal was first discovered in region surrounding Tuckahoe in 1701 by Clinton Pierre Coctrell. Coctrell was a Huguenot hunter who, while retrieving a wild fowl, unearthed coal.20 This occurrence is presented by R. C. White in The Story of Goochland as the first discovery of coal in America. Thomas Mann Randolph sold some of his interest in Tuckahoes land and mining rights numerous times in the early decades of the 19th century. Many lost a fortune in the early rush for coal as resources became less and less available. Thomas Mann II would develop his own coal mine which inevitably failed and added to his debt. He sold tracts of land in 1819 and 1821 to alleviate debt.

20

White, R. C. The Story of Goochland

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William W Pow well, to the west, w purchas sed four sepa arate tracts and in 1824 John Wickh ham purchase ed a tract to the east with h a mill and mill pond o on site21.

Map courtes sy of the Virgin nia Historical i

This T map was found amo ong Thomas Mann Rand dolph IIs pa apers held at t the Virgini ia 22 Historica al Society. In n 1827, Tuck kahoe Canal l Company was w created to link Tuck kahoe Creek k to the established James Ri iver Canal. They T constr ructed a nav vigable route e combining canal, slack kwater and sluice to connect c the lucrative l coa al pits in the e Tuckahoe C Creek area t to the James nal. The Tu uckahoe Cre eek Canal wa as replaced in 1840 by a tramway b built solely f for River can
21 22

White, R. R C. Addison n B. Thompso on papers, VH HS

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coal transport and was used until the 1880s when the coal mines were abandoned23 The Canal map detail shows the canal as it cuts through Tuckahoe low grounds and the site of the Tuckahoe Lock. Evidence of the canal system is still present in the low ground landscape and is well documented in the book, Falls of the James Atlas, by W. E. Trout III which includes a special section on the Tuckahoe Creek section of the canal system. By the time the canal reached Tuckahoe, Thomas Mann Randolph IIs financial state forced him to sell Upper Tuckahoe. He had an even larger family to support than his father. He had 6 children by his first wife Harriot Wilson and 10 children by his second wife Lucinda Patterson. In 1830, When Thomas Mann Randolph II sold Upper Tuckahoe he moved his large family to the former overseers house, a smaller brick building on the Lower Tuckahoe tract24.

The continuous line of Randolph ownership was broken with the sale of the Tuckahoe in 1830. Upon his death in 1848, Thomas Mann Randolph II was buried between his two daughters on the Lower Tuckahoe tract.. Louisa G Randolph and Anne V. Randolph died ten years earlier on consecutive days25. He was later removed from that grave and buried with his
23 24

Canal Book Weeks, Elie. 25 Weeks, Elie

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second wife in Richmond in the Shockoe Burying Ground. The location of this original gravesite and that of his daughters is still known, however it is located in an overgrown and densely wooded area on the original LowerTuckahoe tract, now owned by the C & O Railroad26. The Dickens papers are an important set of documents from the Randolph line and are housed in the Southern Historic Collection at the University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill. These papers have come down through the female descendants of Thomas Mann Randolph II and his first wife Harriet Wilson. In addition to the letters, is a set of notes by Francis Harvie Dickens,who was the great-granddaughter of Thomas Mann Randolph II.27 Dickens grandmother, Margaret Randolph, was the last Randolph descendent to be raised at the plantation. These sources serve as an account of Tuckahoe just before it left Randolph hands. This continuity of ownership in the family line may mean there was a continuity in how Tuckahoe was kept, managed and preserved. It is more likely that descendants would cherish and preserve things relevant to their own family line, thus, any insight into how the property existed at the end of the Randolph line could shed light on the earliest plan and design for the landscape. In addition to their importance in giving a general account of the landscape, these papers also describe the Randolph cemetery in great detail. The Randolph cemetery is comprised of an underground family vault and a brick wall that dates back to the early Randolphs of Tuckahoe. The wall was restored by Francis Harvie Dickens in 1892. According to Francis Harvie Dickens, Margaret Harvie Randolph spent her childhood at Tuckahoe until her father sold the property when she was 15 years old in 1830. Her recollections of Tuckahoe as a child are one of the only accounts of the early landscape at Tuckahoe by a resident. Further research into these original letters could prove more valuable. For now, we have her granddaughters recollections. Although this information is second hand, it still represents a time honored tradition of storytelling passed down through the female line in an effort to preserve information.

26 27

Weeks, Elie Tuckahoe Papers. Research notes by granddaughter of Margaret Harvie Randolph

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This is an old painting that was given as a gift to Tuckahoe, with the intention that it should stay with the home. It has the word Dickens written on the back of the painting. Thomas Mann Randolph IIs daughter, Margaret Harvie Randolph, married Francis Ashbury Dickens. She was the daughter of Thomas Mann Randolph who was the last Randolph of Tuckahoe. It is the Dickens family papers that are housed at UNC and contain early Tuckahoe materials. If the painting came down through the Dickens-Randolph line, it serves as a rare glimpse into Tuckahoe during the Randolph era, prior to 1830. It is important to note the buildings to the east of the house and the brick structure on the low grounds.

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This painting, entitled Through the Elms, shows the rows of immense American Elms that once lined the main lawn approach to Tuckahoe. According to Dickens, Margaret Harvie Randolph remembered this scene as well as other valuable details about the buildings and gardens during the last decades of the Randolph era. Dickens reflects on her stories of how Tuckahoe appeared during her childhood there prior to 1830. The north wing of the house points on a beautiful spacious lawn from the yard gate, the drive comes through a double row of immense elms and in olden times that opened on a grass circle; bordered with red roses and the gravel road kept white and clean from grass. In the summer the lawn is yellow with buttercups and white with clover. The quaint old garden with its rows of box trees28

28

Tuckahoe papers. Recollections of Tuckahoe by Margaret Harvie Randolph. Margaret Harvie Randolph was the daughter of the last Randolph of Tuckahoe, Thomas Mann Randolph II (half-brother of Thomas Mann Randolph of Edgehill)

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Of O particular interest in the t family pa apers is Mar rgaret Dicke ens recollection of how the schoolho ouse was used in the earl ly nineteenth h century an nd its relatio onship to the e garden site e. It is interes sting to note e that she cla aims the sch hoolhouse wa as used as qu uarters for t the gardener r. It wa as custom in Virginia in olden times s to have tw wo houses ca alled offices s- on each si ide some hun ndred yards from the gr re[a]t house. In one of f these it is supposed s the e boys (the t two cousins, Thomas M Mann Rando olph and Th homas Jeffers son) went to o school. The old house was afterw wards used as a the Gardeners house a and he was t the husband d of the dear old o Mammy of the last Randolph R ch hildren...Unc cle Tom wou uld let them, if very good d, walk through his beau utifully kept t garden in w which the house e[schoolhous se] opened....29 Margaret M Ha arvies recollecti ions of a gar rden east of the schoolho ouse were les ss than fifty years afte er Baron Vo on Closen described d a garden in n this space and just a few w decades be efore the Allens would plant the well l-known box x maze of Tuckahoe. T This T account by Miss Dic ckens of a ga arden adjacent to the schoo olhouse duri ing the Rand dolph period fu urther proves the continu uity of the use e of this space as a garde en. In I this early undated pho oto of the sch hoolhouse, the door face es east towa ard the gard den. Referen nce is made to t a second d door in note es from a 190 00, pictured below. 2 windows. 2 doors. The T photo ab bove likely da ates just pri ior to the res storation by y the Coolidge e family. Th hey purchase ed Tuckahoe e from the A Allen family i in 1898.

The T east door r was not in ncluded in th he 20th centu ury restoration and sinc ce that final restoration there has s been a window in its place.

29

Dickens s letter, Tucka ahoe papers.

21

Preserving truth was of the utmost importance to Francis Margaret Dickens and she, like Virginia Allen to follow, wrote a letter to the The Times to correct a publication which appeared in the Richmond paper, July 22, 189430. Dickens corrects the author of the article on a number of details in a letter to the paper, including the date of the house, landscape features, out-buildings and the restoration of the Randolph cemetery. One important statement could possibly give us a known date on the establishment of the cedar lane, possibly referred to as the cedar hedge in the following statement by Dickens, The Brick Quarters and Cedar Hedge were the work of the last Randolph owner of Tuckahoe, the canal also being put there in his time31 The brick quarters she is speaking of could be the brick barn in the farm yard to the east or these brick buildings also present on the 1850s Allen map. There is evidence of three structures in the current landscape, however it is not known if they were of solid brick construction. Only brick chimneys and part of the foundations are still evident in this photograph from the 1950s. Currently, mounds containing brick rubble proves the existence of three buildings. An archaeological investigation of the site may provide insight into the exact size, dimension and use for the buildings. The Dickens letter to the paper goes on to describe the Randolph vault and cemetery, which was the main subject of Francis Dickens research. Her careful research and planning culminated in the 1892 restoration of the Randolph cemetery wall. The wall had succumbed to ruin by that time and Dickens set about to restore it in honor of her mother, grandmother and Randolph ancestors.

30 31

Richmond Times Dispatch. July 22, 1894. Richmond Times Dispatch. July 22, 1894.

22

VII. V The Wi ight Family y Thomas T Man nn Randolph h II sold Tuc ckahoe to He ezekiah Lord d Wight in 1830 due to financial hardship, The T Wight fa amily owned d Upper Tuc ckahoe for a brief period d of only 20 y years spanning g 1830-1850. The acreage of the Up pper Tuckah hoe tract con ntaining the house and outbuildi ings had bee en reduced to o only 588 acres. a by the e time of its s sale. In 183 37, Hezekiah h Lord Wi ight died, lea aving Tucka ahoe to his so on Edwin. I It was Edwi ins widow M Margaret W Wight that sold d Tuckahoe to t the Allen family in 18 85032. The T Wights were w descen ndants of Th homas Wigh ht, a selectma an in Dedha am, Massachusetts and founder fo of Harvard Colle ege. They oc ccupied the Tuckahoe m mansion whil le ned the prop perty as surm mised from the t househol ld budget an nd various le etters that they own

remain in n Tuckahoe papers hous sed at the Vi irginia Histo orical Societ ty. Very littl le is known about the e manageme ent of the pla antation or any a contribu utions the W Wights may h have made to the landscape of Tuckahoe. They T did esta ablish the fam mily cemete ery adjacent to the large er brick-wall led Randolph h cemetery y which is no ow enclosed by an iron fence. f The W Wight ceme etery is 20 ft by 33 ft and d has only one memorial st tone visible. The origin nal stones we ere made of f limestone. Limestone, due to its con ncentration of o calcium-carbonate, ca an weather r rapidly and u unfortunatel ly was often the stone of choice c in thi is area for gr rave-marker rs.

32

Hanna, William.

23

A modern stone was put in place in 1948 by the Baker family in an effort to preserve the information held on various markers that had deteriorated over time. It was not intended to represent the location of the actual graves, made obvious by its north/south orientation. The graves detected by a 2007 Ground Penetrating Radar Survey are all east/west in orientation and fill the area of the cemetery. The GPR survey of the Wight cemetery revealed five adult graves, two of which are held within an underground vault in the Northeast corner of the cemetery33. Evidence of five different graves confirms the potential accuracy of the five names listed on the restoration stone. Tuckahoe was the site of the first competition of the reaping machine in the world according to The Story of Goochland, which was written by Wight descendants.34 Inventors McCormick and Hussey tested their reapers at Tuckahoe on June 27th 1843. According to one account of the competition, McCormick succeeded in cutting the harvest after a rain, whereas Husseys reaping machine failed to cut the wet wheat.35 This invention would go on to be one of the most important tools for agriculture, replacing the need for human labor in harvest. It is interesting to note that Tuckahoe was the site of such agricultural innovation in the mid nineteenth century. There is little known about how the property was managed during the Wight period. We do know the general state of the landscape at the time of their familys 1848 sale based on Allen family record,. A letter by Virginia Mitchell Allen gives us the earliest detailed description of the landscape at the time of Joseph Allens purchase36. She recounts the great labor and financial effort that Joseph Allen, her father-in-law, made when he first bought Tuckahoe to bring it back from a most dilapidated condition. She affirms that the East was used for vegetables during the Wight era which gives continuity of the eastern area being the site of early gardens.

33 34

Hanna, William Whitten, David O. 35 Wight, Edwin 36 Allen letter to Richmond paper. Tuckahoe papers.

24

VIII. V The Al llen Family of Tuckaho oe (1848-18 898) The T Allen fam mily maintai ined Tuckaho oe and active ely farmed th he land for nearly y fifty years. During the eir tenure, th hey increase ed the land holdings h by reunit ting Lower and a Upper 37 Tuckaho oe . They sa aw the canal l flourish and be re eplaced by th he rail line and a brought Tuckahoe sa afely throug gh the Civil Wa ar. Two imp portant sets of documen nts remain fr rom the Alle en period. The Alle en Farm Boo ok (1850-186 60) gives a detailed d account of f the manage ement of the great ter plantatio on and includ des a hand dra awn map of the t orchard and service yard. y Letters written by Virginia All len to correc ct newspaper and magaz zine articles about Tu uckahoe have e also surviv ved. These sources are invaluable i in understan nding the Al llens use and management m t of Tuckaho oe. This pho oto is from th he Allen per riod.

37

Thomps son, Addison.

25

Virginia Allens letters shed more light on the pleasure gardens at Tuckahoe before and during their time there. Her letter gives great detail about the landscape and attempts to set the record straight38. An article had been published in the Times in 1898 and another in Modern Farming in February of 1909, both of which Mrs. Allen felt misrepresented Tuckahoe in many ways. The intention of both letters is to dispel falsehood and lore. In doing so, she gives this firsthand account of the state of the plantation when the Allens bought the property in 1848, My husband, Mr. Richard S. Allen, inherited the place in 1868 from his father. When Mr. Joseph Allen bought the property, Mrs. Allen told me, it was in the most dilapidated condition and that the gullies at the back of the house on the hillside next to the canal reached to the top of the hill and were deep. There was no lawn around the house - bare, even, in a great many places.39 Virginia Allen also notes the negro houses opened up on this front yard and the little negroes played all over the yard40. This would mean that the North and South slave cabins did not face Plantation Street as they have been restored to, but rather faced inward creating a court-like space in the front yard with the house. It is possible that this could be proved by a thorough examination of the slave houses. It is interesting that both the office and schoolhouse open to the North lawn as well. Allens account of the orientation of the entrances to the quarters would support the hypothesis of a line of outbuildings on the East side of the lawn, mirroring those on Plantation Street. Mrs. Allen describes the early Allen restoration of the slave cabins and the south bank leading down to the canal from the house. Mr. Allen (Joseph) changed all this, boarding up the doors on the front and putting them on the back yard side. Dirt and stones were hauled, the gullies filled up down to the canal and a stone wall built to prevent the water washing from the canal. The terraces were made, and a spring covered over with brick. Mr. Allen had bought a fine bricklayer, Hubbard by name. All the brickwork was done by him,-the spring, brick walk around the house and to the kitchen.
38 39

Allen letter to the Richmond Times Dispatch 1898. Allen letter, 1898. 40 Allen letter, 1898.

26

This photo was taken during the Allen period. Mrs. Allen can be seen standing on steps leading down from the south end of the house. Virginia further recounts the restoration efforts made by her father-in-law for the buildings and greater plantation landscape of Tuckahoe. The division of fields can be seen in the Allen Farm Book, where each field is given a name and records kept of what was planted and added to the soil.

Mr. Joseph Allen, after he bought the place, purchased boats and hauled oyster shells and fertilizers for the land. He painted and put the house in thorough repair, and the small house in the yard, called the school house, he re-lathed and plastered, putting in presses and making it a comfortable sleeping office room. Mr. Allen fenced the entire farm with plank and divided all the fields, with a gate to each and tin capped posts. The Allen Farm Book was written by Joseph Allen in the period ranging 1850-1860. A large portion of the The Farm Book includes entries describing the basic agricultural pursuits at Tuckahoe during this period. There is also an account of the slaves at Tuckahoe in 1859 as well as a map of the grounds which includes a diverse fruit orchard of early cultivars41. It is not only an important document for research into Tuckahoe specifically, but is also gives insight into farming operations during the Civil War era in Virginia.

41

Thompson, Addison.

27

Strict S record ds were kept for each of the t Allen fie elds, named by Joseph A Allen. The greatest yields of Tu uckahoe were e corn, whea at, oats and o s. He amen nded the vari ious other grains soils with h a great var riety of mate erials: fertilizer, Richm mond manure e, guano, lime, lye composte ed with ditch h mud, leac ched ashes, and a sod ash. Fields were e allowed to o remain fallo ow for a seas son or were cover-cropp ped in peas, to t maintain fertility. T The Allens al lso maintain ned a herd of 57 5 cattle, com mparable to the size of th he herd at T Tuckahoe tod day and raised enough f food for themselves and th he 50 plus sl laves they maintained. m

The extens sive orchard d was located d west of the e cedar lane, l where the modern n visitor park king lot and pastur re is located.. The orchard extended d south behin nd the mo odern garag ge area and t the far weste ern dependen ncies on Pla antation Stre eet. The orcha ard map deta ails the locat tion and var riety of fruit in the orch hard which n numbered ov ver 275 trees. Included in the orcha ard were 22 different cu ultivars of ap pples, 30 diff ferent peaches, 10 aprico ots, 13 cherri ies, 22 necta arines and 25 5 different kinds of plum ms. The orch hard map pr rovides an incredibl le insight int to the availa ability of diff ferent cultiv ars of fruit a at the time, a as well as th he favorite fruit, f planted d in greater number. Along A with the t detail of the orchard d, Joseph Allen A also lab beled buildin ngs and othe er importan nt features of the landsca ape. The All len map inclu udes the service yard, co omprising most m of the outbuildings still in existe ence and is drawn d to rough scale and in ncludes three e buildings which w no lon nger exist in n situ: a chic cken house, chicken coop c and duc ck house, all l located in the t modern g garage area,, north of th he service ya ard.

28

The map p depicts the slave quarte ers on Plant tation Street t with their d doors facing g the service e yard, opp posite the H House Yard, as Mrs. All lens letter d demonstrate es. The ma ap also show ws the layout t of three ad dditional out tbuildings no orth of the orchard, , lining the farm f road in nto the West t fields. It is s not known the pur rpose of these three buil ldings, howe ever they are depicted w with chimney ys and d could be what w Joseph Allen refers s to on his m map as East Quarter. T The ced dar hedge (la ane) is also labeled l on th he map. Allen also a labels th he ice house e lot and ic ce house fenc ce on the we estern slope leading dow wn to the pon nd behind th he western q quarters and d in the e vicinity of an existing pit, hypothe esized to be the site historic ice hous se at Tu uckahoe. xisting pit ha as filled in an nd has collap psed in on it tself over tim me. The ex It is i possible th hat the pit was w used as a trash site d during subse equent perio ods. No o remnant of f an above ground struct ture remains. An archae eological excavatio on of the pit could prove e useful in de etermining w whether or n not it was th he historic ic ce house sit te. As A far as the pleasure gar rdens of Tuc ckahoe durin ng this perio od are conce erned, the Al llen letters ar re of critical importance, not only to o their period d, but impor rtant to the history of th he gardens of o Tuckahoe e as they wo ould be know wn into the m modern era. Unfortunate ely the Allen n map does s not include e the pleasur re gardens on o the easter rn side of the e house. Vir rginia Allen speaks of f the lack of gardens at Tuckahoe T when w she mov ved there aft fter marrying g Allen. She e describes s what she fo ound, W When I mar rried and went to Tucka ahoe in 186 63, I was gre eatly disappo ointed not finding a flow wer garden. No flowers anywhere, e except a few w rose bushes s one side of f the house. The flower fl garde en now at Tu uckahoe was s not a Colon nial one. It w was a vegeta able garden. g For my pleasure e my husban nd had the ve egetables tak ken up, land d ploughed a and 42 gotten g in con ndition for flo owers. When W she sta ates the flow wer garden now n at Tuck kahoe, she i is most defin nitely speaki ing of the box maze that t had gained significant notoriety n by y the end of the nineteen nth century and was prom minently feat tured in both articles sh he is respond ding to. Th he 1909 artic cle in Moder rn Farming g also highlig ghts The Ghost G Walk of Tuckaho oe, a long Am merican boxw wood lined p path adjacent to the forme er maze site,. Mrs. Allen n corrects th he paper in s saying, the l long hedge a as 43 seen in th he front piec ce of your magazine m was s laid off and d planted at the same tim me . If on ne is to believe e Mrs Allens personal account a of th he landscape e, then the m maze of Tuck kahoe was not the maze that Baro on Von Close en walked th hrough in th he 1790s but t was rather planted alon ng k during her r time at Tuckahoe. with the Ghost Walk

42 43

Allen letter, 1909 Allen letter, 1909

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This T photo (a above left) ta aken in the 1950s 1 shows s the Ghost walk from th he same perspecti ive as the im mage (above right), from about 1900 0. We can see e that the he edges start a as a double ro ow and finish as a single e row of box xwood on eac ch side. Note that the ga arden gate a at the far end of o the path is s in perfect alignment. a These T rows w would shift o over time. Fortu unately, the Allen plan f for t the maze and d ghost walk k has surviv ved. T This drawin ng, (at left), d dated 1864, w was f found in the Coolidge Sc crapbook an nd c could be the plan Virgin nia Allen spe eaks o of in her lett ters. She clea arly states, My h husband dre ew many des signs, and I h have t them all, also o the perfect ted design b by w which the ga arden was la aid off. We h had a f fine old Scot tch gardener r. He did the e w work and pla anted the bo ox44. Draw wings of the maze as it e existed in th he twentieth century sug ggest t that this 186 64 design ev volved into th he f final design with only sl light change es to t the scale and d size of the interior bed ds. A Allens refer rence to the d design and i installation o of the maze, coupled wit th t this 1864 pla an, helps to p prove the m maze w was laid out and planted d during Virginia a and Richards early year rs at Tuckah hoe.

44

Allen let tter to Richmo ond Times, 18 898.

30

The design of the one acre, square maze does not perfectly match any known famous maze designs however, its layout could be characterized in a variety of ways. The route visitors were intended to follow was open and branching. The paths of the maze were both curvilinear and straight opening to many places along its edge, creating many entrances and exits. The design afforded the visitor many options to navigate paths which would lead them to the center of the maze, where a single flower bed served as the goal. The overall design was not intended to puzzle those who walked its paths. It was to be enjoyed for its symmetrical and pleasing design and possibly intended to be seen from above. Without large trees blocking the view, the maze site is visible from the second floor of the mansion. The box hedges, while providing the necessary walls of the paths, also formed and outlined the 57 interior flower beds. The dwarf boxwood were not intended to grow tall but to remain relatively short so that the flower beds within would be visible. This type of maze design has also been referred to as a floral labyrinth. In her book, entitled Tuckahoe Plantation, owner, Jessie Ball Krusen suggests that the design of Tuckahoes maze was comparable to a maze design (pictured below) found in The English Husbandman published in 163545.

This drawing of the maze was found in the Coolidge scrapbook, and illustrates the final design that was maintained.

One can easily see the similarity in design between this early maze design and the maze that would be maintained at Tuckahoe for over one hundred years. This drawing below was found in the Coolidge Scrapbook and may be the reference they used for the upkeep of the hedges design. The Allen period was known for its extravagant gardens, mass plantings, extensive farming and agricultural operations. Unfortunately, the schoolhouse and cemetery fell into disrepair during this time as well. In the latter years of the Allen period, Randolph descendant Francis Margaret Dickens, saw to the restoration of the cemetery wall.

45

Krusen, Jessie Ball Thompson.

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IX. 1892 Restoration of The Randolph Cemetery By the time Francis Margaret Dickens began restoration in 1892, the cemetery had been without Randolph caretakers for over 60 years. Without Randolphs to look after the family burying ground, nature had taken its course; the cemetery had fallen into disrepair. Trees grew and broke the wall in many places. Dickens describes the state of the wall, My mother, Margaret Harvie Randolph, had for years been much troubled at the terrible condition of the wall around the grave yard and vault and her mothers sunken grave, with that of her two little sisters was a great grief to her covered as they were with fallen brick, broken trees and rubbish....it looking like a grown up old grave yard full of large and many dead and fallen trees... 46

This photo, above, shows the cemetery wall in ruin, prior to the restoration. This is the only surviving photograph of the original 18th century wall and was taken sometime prior to 1892, during the Allen period. According to Dickens, the original wall had a rounded top, made of half-round bricks. There were not enough of these to complete the rounded top, so Miss Dickens used the half round bricks to create turrets, a change from the original design. The original headstones no longer exist, so she inset plaques into the wall to interpret the family burials.47

46 47

Dickens letter to Richmond Times Dispatch. Tuckahoe Papers. Dickens letter to Richmond Times Dispatch. Tuckahoe Papers.

32

This photo shows one of the four plaques placed at that time. Miss Dickens clearly states in her papers that neither she, nor anyone else can know who is buried in the cemetery. Her plaques, inlaid in the wall merely suggest who may be buried there based on their relationship to the estate. She marks her grandmothers grave. Harriet Wilson Randolph was the last Randolph buried within the four brick walls. She also designates the vault on a plaque of its own on the North wall. Another plaque marks Judith Randolphs grave. Dickens claims that Col. Thomas Mann Randolph was the last person buried in the vault. The doorway was bricked over and the entrance steps were filled at that time. Originally, according to Dickens, there was a wooden gate, by which visitors could gain access into the cemetery, however she could not determine the exact location of the gate, so she closed the wall completely in the 1892 restoration. The bricks used for the re-building were a combination of bricks from the existing wall, bricks from the schoolhouse, and other bricks found at Tuckahoe. Virginia Allen, claims that she gave bricks from both the foundation and chimney of the schoolhouse to Dickens for the repair on the wall48. She, like Dickens, wrote response letters to both a magazine and the local newspaper in an attempt to correct a writers false account of the history of Tuckahoe. She was attempting to prove that the schoolhouse was in complete ruins by the time her family left Tuckahoe in 1898, just seven years after the restoration of the wall. In addition to Miss Allens letter, a correspondence between the brick layer and Miss Dickens further proves the origin of the cemetery wall brick. I [bricklayer] will take down and clean the bricks from the Jefferson chimney and the walls of the present cemetery and rebuild the same four feet high 49 These references are not only important in documenting the evolution of the cemetery wall but also bring to light the state of schoolhouse in 1892 and the possible existence of a chimney on the original schoolhouse. Dickens' effort was a daunting one and a pursuit of personal importance to her. She was able to raise the money for the project by soliciting the help of the descendants of the Tuckahoe Randolphs and she managed the project herself50. Miss Dickens sent a letter to all the descendants in 1891 and made them aware of the state of the cemetery wall. She asked for donations to help with the restoration and informed the descendants that Tuckahoe was eventually going to have to be sold due to the financial state of the Allens.

48 49

Allen letter to Richmond Times Dispatch. Tuckahoe Papers. Dickens letter to bricklayer. Thompson papers. VHS backlog. 50 Dickens letter to descendents. Coolidge Scrapbook. Thompson Papers. VHS backlog.

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In her letter to descendants, Dickens states, Most of the stone and bricks from the old vault are still there, and the wall could be easily repaired would the descendants, who are proud, with just cause, of their noble ancestry, all unite in sending money to make up a sum sufficient to have the work done nicely. If it remains much longer the bricks will become scattered and lost and the place share the fate of most country graveyards, and become part of the field.51

Dickens describes the restoration of the wall in the following excerpt from her letter to the Richmond Times-Dispatch: It was rebuilt as much like the old one as possible, and slabs with records put into the wall....I carefully superintended the removal of every brick myself, removing with my own hands many at the corners of the wall in hopes of finding some name or date, but nothing was there....I had the wall put up as nearly like the old one as I could, and some of it on the old foundation - but the top is different. I wanted to use the round brick, so arranged them as turrets on top of the wall. 52

51 52

Coolidge Scrapbook. Thompson Papers. backlog. Dickens letter to Randolph descendants. Coolidge Scrapbook. Thompson Papers. VHS backlog.

34

It t took seven years from the time of the t letter for r Tuckahoe to be sold to o the Coolid dges of Boston n in 1898. The T Coolidg ge family, de escendants o of the Randolphs, donate ed money towards the restoration and paid d for photographs to be taken of the e newly resto ored wall. T This aph may be the t one taken in 1892 of f the newly b built cemete ery wall. photogra The T west wal ll of the cem metery today shows the o only plaque that Dicken ns set into th he outside of o the wall. She S lists the e dates, 1698 8 and 1892. This referen nce to 1698 is interestin ng because the t significance of that year y to the Randolph R fam mily is unkn nown. The year1698 is ju ust three yea ars after the first Randol lph acquired d Tuckahoe l land throug gh the 1695 g grant.

Dicken ns includes in n her notes, the insc criptions on pan nes of glass in the house e. On n one, accord ding to her, the wo ords, Thom mas Randolph h, 1698 were ins scribed. This can nnot be prov ven; the pane of gla ass no longe er exists and d this is t the only refe erence. In 1698, Th homas Randolph would have bee en 15 years old and the house wouldn t be built by y his son n for anothe er 35 years. Co ould 1698 r reference some for rm of Rando olph settleme ent her re in the firs st three year rs aft ter the origin nal grant? I If so, the en who, wha at and where e?

35

X. Coolidge Family The Coolidges were direct descendants of Col. Thomas Mann Randolph, Sr. and Anne Cary of Tuckahoe and therefore, related to Thomas Jefferson as well. In 1898, the Coolidge family of Boston bought Tuckahoe bringing this important family seat back in the Randolph line after over 100 years. The Coolidges made a great effort to restore Tuckahoe to its former Randolph glory. The large family kept Tuckahoe for 37 years as a second home to their principal residence in Massachusetts. The preservation and upkeep of their ancestral home was a pursuit of passion influenced by sentimentality and family pride. Joseph Coolidge and eight other family members maintained Tuckahoe from afar with the help of overseers, diligent record-keeping and good communication between owners. Many primary documents remain from the Coolidge era of Tuckahoe. Of these, the Coolidge Scrapbook, correspondence between owners, and maintenance records were most helpful in bringing to life the landscape under their ownership. Many families during this time were enjoying the relatively new technologies of photography and videography, including the Coolidges. Besides the numerous personal photos in the scrapbook, the Coolidge family also documented the landscape through a series a short home videos taken between 1925 and 1935. These films, broken into still frames, offer a large collection of visual documentation of the property Their love of Tuckahoe was evident through the carefully kept Scrapbook, the diligent record of maintenance kept throughout their ownership and the manner in which they restored the schoolhouse, outbuildings, main house and garden. The Coolidges employed overseers for both the house and grounds and the greater farming operation to help them manage the estate from afar. This insured a level of maintenance and oversight that they felt was deserving of such an important historic site.

Members of the Coolidge family on the main lawn of Tuckahoe. This photo was found in the Coolidge family scrapbook along with numerous other family pictures.

36

XI. The Jefferson Schoolhouse Restoration 1892-1919 It is in this period between the last decade of Allen ownership and the first two decades of Coolidge ownership that the Jefferson schoolhouse structural history becomes difficult to trace. Virginia Allen claims that the schoolhouse was in complete ruins by 1898. She states: A small house has been built in the yard since our home was taken from us and persons are told it is the old schoolhouse. This is not so. The schoolhouse was in ruins before I left. The foundation, with the exception of a few bricks, I gave to Miss Dickens, a granddaughter of Thomas Mann Randolph, to finish out the wall around the vault...The weather boarding that was standing was too rotten for use, so I burned it up. This little house is not at all like the original.53 Virginia Allens letters written in 1894 and 1898, put to question the schoolhouse restoration that had taken place in the early years of the Coolidge ownership. Pictures found in the Coolidge Scrapbook clearly show the schoolhouse in various states of disrepair. According to Mrs. Allen, the schoolhouse that was rebuilt and written about in the 1909 Modern Farming magazine did not resemble the schoolhouse as she knew it in her earlier days at Tuckahoe. Numerous undated photographs of the structure have survived in Coolidge Scrapbook which also included a few Allen photos as well. The architecture of the building experienced two major restorations within a short time, therefore, it is difficult to discern which photos of the schoolhouse are older. This further complicates any effort to reconstruct the schoolhouse evolution. We know the following; 1892- Virginia Allen claims bricks were used from the Jefferson Schoolhouse foundation for the cemetery. Miss Dickens instructs bricklayer to remove all bricks from schoolhouse chimney, clean and use in cemetery restoration.

1898- Virginia Allen claims that by the time she and her husband left Tuckahoe, the schoolhouse was in ruins. Numerous, undated photos of a roofless schoolhouse such as the ones shown can be found in the Coolidge scrapbook. The photo at left shows the schoolhouse in the most dilapidated state.

53

Virginia Allen letter. 1898

37

The T photo be elow appears s to have bee en taken befo fore the roof f deteriorated d completely y. It is a pyram midal roof, matching m the e masters office roof on n the opposit te side of the e house.

1880-19 900 This Co ook photo co ould hav e been taken n as early as 1880 when orge S. Cook k Sr. moved to Richmon nd. Geo Ano other Cook p photo has be een found repr roduced in t the July 29 1 1894 article i in the Times, how wever, no exa act date is kn nown for t this photo. P Photo appea ars in Coolid dge scra apbook with the word A Allen writte en ben eath it. Not te, there doe esnt appear to be a ch himney. This s undated do ocument, fou und in th he Tuckahoe e papers, outlines the lum mber needed to repair the e schoolhous se. In d doing so, the e state of the e structure is s desc cribed in the e following n note.

The pitch of f roof not kn nown as roof f T has fallen n in. 2 windo ows. 2 doors s. Foundatio ons (brick) go ood.54 Enough E lumb ber was salvaged for two o sides and d an estimate e was given for a hip roo of with a projection p of f eaves 16 in. . and a price for both a flat ceiling g or a dome ed ceiling.

54

Tuckahoe papers

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Archibald A Ca ary Coolidge e, one of the sons of then n owner, J. R Randolph Co oolidge, writ tes in 1900 tha at the Jefferson Schoolho ouse had bee en recently r restored, he noted it had d been repair red 55 incorrect tly. 1900- This ph hoto below, dated April 1900, show ws the school lhouse with a gable roof f and recent re epairs as described in the e document. Following t the Schoolhouse restora ation in 1900 0, the Coolidge e family host ted a Randol lph reunion at Tuckahoe e for over 40 00 guests. P Perhaps the g gable roof was constructed d in time for the large ga athering on April 19 190 00.

1904- In resp ponse to the newspaper, Virginia All len corrects the paper in n saying tha at the building that stands at Tuckahoe e six years after a she mov ved from the ere is not th he Jefferson Schoolho ouse. She cle early states, this little house h is not l like the orig ginal. Allen n goes into further detail d regard ding the brick ks from the schoolhouse e and hints a at a major di ifference between the schoolhouse that wa as rebuilt in the early tw wentieth cen ntury and the e architectur re of the origin nal school house h as she knew it. Sh he makes a po oint of notin ng, all of the bricks from m the chimney and nearly all a from the foundation were used in n rebuilding g the wall aro ound the vault.56 This is part ticularly not teworthy because the re estoration of f the schoolh house in the subsequen nt Coolidge e era, did not include a ch himney. Thi is is the only known k refere ence to a chi imney on the original schoolhou use. She claim med to have the only pic cture of wha at the schoolhou use really loo oked like, an nd refused to o share it wit th anyone. It is possible e she is speak king about t the oval phot to on p It is lik kely the gab ble roof was removed by y the the prior page. Coolidges s, having rea alized the err ror, and repl laced with th he pyramidal l roof. This u undated pho oto shows th he schoolhou use with new roof.

55 56

Tuckahoe papers. un ndated Coolid dge letter abo out schoolhou use restoration n. Virginia a Allen letter 1898. 1

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1904-1919- The T schoolho ouse, as n this photo from the scr rapbook, shown in is comple eted with py yramidal roo of and dated Ap pril, 1919. Note brick sta airs have not been added. If th he Cook phot to was taken during the Allen period, th hat photo an nd the examp ple masters office to the west could have been used as s the model for the final re estoration of f the Jefferson n Schoolhous se.

Pictu ured at left is s the master rs office. It i is likely l that th he schoolhou use was rest tored to match this t original structure. T Together the ey create a matching m pa air, flanking the main ho ouse on the e east and a west. T The Schoolho ouse would c continue to b be maintained m a according to o the final Co oolidge restoration. r In n this 2009 photo p below w the Jefferso on Schoolhou use looks as s it did by 19 919.

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XII. The Landscape of the Coolidge Period The Coolidge family shifted focus to the landscape once the buildings, mainly the Schoolhouse, were restored. They employed caretakers to oversee operations on both the grounds and house. The first couple to live in the mansion as caretakers for the Coolidges, were Edith Tunis Sale and her husband William. A writer of Southern history, architecture and gardens, Edith Sale was already familiar with Tuckahoe when she moved there. She had written about Tuckahoe in a newspaper article written in 1908 for the Times Dispatch and just a year later, featured Tuckahoe in her first publication on Virginia houses, entitled, Manors of Virginia in Colonial Times, written in 1909. In 1916, the Sales were presented with the opportunity to live at Tuckahoe. They accepted and took up residence in the mansion until 1924 or 1925. Her accounts of Tuckahoes gardens during this time serve as an important firsthand account of the gardens just ten years following the Coolidge purchase. She is said to have enjoyed the role of mistress of Tuckahoe, taking delight in the gardens, flower arranging and entertaining in the mansion house57. Her descriptions of Tuckahoe are lively and colorful, giving insight into the management practices of the Coolidge family. In the following excerpt Sale describes the approach as it was in 1909. The manor house is set in the midst of forest of trees of magnificent growth, the long avenue which forms its outer approach bordered with ancient cedars, which give place to well kept box hedges, these near the house being interlined with a row of trees of the same shrub. The old garden, or maze as it is called, extends alone one side of the mansion, and is one of the largest as well as the most beautiful of the old homesteads of the country58 This illustration of the maze was done by a member of the Coolidge family and appears in Sales book, Historic Gardens of Virginia, published in 1923. She offers a list of flowers found in the 57 spaces within the box maze, of which she said each space only hosted one type of flower. No new flowers have been allowed to supplant the modest old ones, and each bed knows only one kind. In this, grow only varicolored verbenas, and in that, golden marigolds bloom triumphant. Then come gillyflowers and scarlet poppies; pink sweet william and shrinking lavender....The effect is that of a huge bouquet, with green box dividing bright color from color.

Image courtesy of the James River Garden Club

57 58

Calvacade. Sale, Edith Tunis. 1909.

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The maze was by no means the whole garden59, according to Sale, in her 1923 publication, Historic Gardens in Virginia. This illustration, by W. J. Wallace, which appeared in the 1923 publication, is the first time the garden has been depicted as a square with the box maze comprising only a quarter of the entire planned space. This lovely watercolor illustrates the gardens of Tuckahoe during Edith Sales time at Tuckahoe in the 1920s.

59

Sale, Edith Tunis. 1923.

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In the quarter north of the maze, she describes iris-bound walks in between vegetable plots running north and south. These are still evident in photos taken in the 1950s.

East of the maze was a second vegetable acre, separated by a line of Forsythia suspensa and bridal wreath. The entire four-square garden is lined on the South and East by fruit trees.

Sale refers to where the box bordered Ghost Walk ends as being the half acre allotted to iris60

As one walked to the end of the ghost walk, according to Sale, an abrupt left turn would lead visitors down a path between perennial borders to the Randolph cemetery. Sale describes irregular plantings of shrubs meant to provide a screen between the cemetery and kitchen garden. Three existing old quince may be the only remaining shrubs from Sales account.

60

Historic Gardens of Virginia pp 120

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It is evident Wallace and Sale took some liberty with this design. The size of the maze is not to scale with the cemetery. Even with the artist taking some liberty with the scale of some features, the Wallace drawing and photograph do match her general description of plant material and spatial relationships. When compared to this illustrated plan view of Tuckahoe in 2007, we can see the distortion in Sales drawing more clearly. The spatial relationship of the former maze site and the Randolph cemetery clearly shows that the drawing is not intended to act as a measured drawing but rather an illustration of the minds eye. While there may have been distinct areas of the garden within a rectangle shape, the perfect four square design does not seem likely. The maze was much larger than this picture depicts. The existence of many flower gardens in addition to the maze, brings up the question, whose gardens were these? It is possible that some or all of these additional spaces were the creation of the Allen family.

The Wallace picture should not be interpreted as a measured drawing of the Coolidge garden at Tuckahoe, however, it still offers some clues into this early twentieth century garden. Below, a modern drawing shows the area depicted by the Wallace drawing at right. It is obvious that the watercolor was not drawn to scale, evident by the size and proportion of the cemetery and maze area.

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Sales accounts also include descriptions of broader landscape features. She describes the cedar lane in 1909. The long avenue which forms its outer approach bordered with ancient cedars61 This account comes just five years after the Coolidge family sought the advice of Frederick Law Olmsted, Jr. regarding replanting the avenue of cedars at Tuckahoe.62 Sale had noted in her description of the lane, that the cedars were ancient. Surely some were of considerable age, however the rows were not complete. A series of letters between Coolidge owners and Frederick L. Olmsted, Jr., outline Olmsteds advice on replanting cedars from the property to the lane to fill in gaps in the rows. The Coolidges followed his advice and had the lane revitalized sometime in the years 1904 and 1905.

In this 1915 photo, at left, the cedar lane contains Juniperus virginiana specimens of considerable age. The typed label below was found with this photo in the Coolidge scrapbook. Mr. McClinton describes the cedars as being over 200 years old at the time of the photo, dating them to the Randolph era. This means that claim by Randolph descendants could be correct. The cedar hedge may have been well established by the end of the Randolph era and were possible a landscape feature during the time young Jefferson lived there.

61 62

Sale, Edith Tunis 1909. Coolidge letter to Frederick Law Olmsted, Jr. HS Thompson papers. backlog.

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Through T the e carefully ke ept maintenance records s and corres spondence be etween own ners, one can surmise s that t their priori ities of upkee ep were the house, outb buildings, ce edar lane and d the box maze e.

In 1912, the Coolidges be egan a massi ive restoratio on of the boxwood m maze. A det tailed rep port on the garden and an estimate for th he cost of restoration giv ve insight in nto the existing st tate and wor rk that was to be e completed.63 Jo ohnson and J Johnson, the e co ompany hired d by the Co oolidges, des scribed the m maze in great detail l in their rep port. Th hey inspecte ed each of th he 57 plo ots and all p plant materia al. Th his was quite an assessm ment; the maze, acco ording to Sa ales, wa as nearly a m mile and a ha alf lon ng. After t their assessm ment, Jo ohnson and J Johnson de etermined th he factors co ontributing t to the declin ne of the garde en and the necessary n ste eps to fully restore r the m maze. Accord ding to them m, the work could not t begin until l the invasiv ve plants suc ch as poison ivy, Virgini ia creeper an nd English iv vy were rem moved. In ad ddition, the paths p between the boxw wood had wo orn, revealin ng the root system of o the boxwo ood, which needed to be covered ove er with fresh h soil. They determined d that the main factor in the overall hea alth of the box b was a str rata of poor, , clay soil that ran south heast across th he entire leng gth of the maze. m They su uggested in their report t to remove e the entire strata of poor soil to the depth of two feet an nd replace it t with dark, r rich loam which can be found on n your place not far from m the garden. In additio on to replaci ing the soil t they note th hat it will be necessary to replant r the box b in this section. s

63

Addison n B. Thompso on papers, VH HS. Folder: Coolidge main tenance pape ers

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This blueprint of the maze was found in the Coolidge Scrapbook and shows the design of the maze, which was important for its restoration. An image such as this may have been used in the 1912 restoration.

In the photo at right, the area of damaged plants can be seen in the southeastern corner, or bottom left in the picture.

These photographs, below, were taken in 1928. We can see in this picture that the shape of the maze is well kept and that the focus of the garden is the boxwood themselves. Few shrubs scattered here and there hint at the original intention of the interior flower beds. The maze would continue to be a focus and gain renewed interest as one of the finest boxwood gardens in America.

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Following F the 1912 resto oration of th he box maze,, the Coolidg ges continue ed rejuvenat ting the lands scape, implem menting this s hand-draw wn tree-plant ting plan da ated 1912 an nd 1919. The Coolidge es mapped ex xisting trees s as well as future f planti ing sites. Ac ccording to this plan, th hey concentrated on plan nting elms in n the blank spaces s in the e rows of the e main lawn n as well as introduce ed Judas trees, and dogw woods to the e South bank k. From m this draw wing clearly a row of trees exis sted running g north and s south in the service yard d to the west of Plantatio on Street. Th his row of trees s pictured at t right is also o evident in the Coolidg ge films. Oak ks, Tulip tree es, Holly and D Dogwoods were labeled on the pla an; all unlabele ed trees on th he plan to be p planted were elms. They also noted the planting g of trees in maintenanc ce records. I In one, dated 1 1926, it was recommend ded by one own ner to plant two dozen t trees annually at Tuckahoe.

The T mature line l of Amer rican elms be ehind the outbuildi ings is evide ent in both th he tree-plan nting plan an nd this Cook k photo (188 80-1900) fou und in the sc crapbook. A complete e mapping of f trees durin ng the Coolid dge era coul ld prove use eful in revea aling an earlier design. Using U this 1912/1919 plan, other measured d drawings and a images f from both the scrapbook and a Coolidge e films, one could map potential l trees from the Randolp ph era. Some of the old varieties of trees evid dent in the 1920s 1 Coolid dge Films w were Juniper, Holly, H Amer rican Elm, Honey H Locus st, Catalpa a and Hackberr ry.

Coo ok photo taken n at Tuckahoe as early as 188 80

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In 1926, the Coolidge family employed an old fashioned method to maintain the lawn of Tuckahoe. At the request of the caregiver, the Coolidges bought a herd of sheep to graze the lawn. They were fenced in to the main approach area. That same year, another lively ornament graced the lawns. According to one of the Coolidge owners, H.J.C. [owner] will give a peacock and two hens if they can be found by Mrs. Hobson [caretaker]. Should like to see four or five sheep in the yard unless they are found to injure the box or bulbs64 The bulbs he must be referring to are the numerous daffodils that create the Daffodil Rows lining the entrance through the main lawn. This, undated watercolor painting of Tuckahoe was done by Florence Lyle Blair and is part of the Tuckahoe collection of materials. Billy the pet peacock, as he is named on the back of the painting, may have been the Coolidge era peacock spoken of in this record.

During the Coolidge era, the daffodils in the lawn appear mature, forming a carpet beneath the old elms lining the drive. The daffodils are thickly massed around the base of the trees in this Coolidge photo. They are most likely the plantings of Virginia Allen. It was fashionable in the mid-19th century to line walks in mass plantings of bulbs. The solid mass of flowers seen in this historic photo from the Coolidge scrapbook hints at their maturity. The Coolidges visited Tuckahoe most frequently in the early spring, during the daffodil bloom period. Numerous photos in the scrapbook show the lawn in full bloom.

64

Coolidge maintenance papers.

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Sales also mentions the daffodils in main lawn specifically, all over the lawn, are four varieties of narcissi--the Polyanthus, which though in the minority, compensates in its bright yellow flowers; the white Biflorus, and most pleasing of all, Ornatus and Poeticus.. 65 Sales also mentioned the early spring bulbs in her book, Historic Gardens of Virginia. This excerpt may give names to the familiar flowers that still bloom at Tuckahoe.

{T}here are so many varieties of daffodils and narcissi at this charming old place. Beginning with the short-stemmed Obvallaris, the beautiful Stellas follow in profusion. These bulbs were planted long before the days of Olympia as the Golden Spur and the double Orange and Golden Phoenix, familiarly known as Butter and Eggs...But, the daintiest of all the daffodil family which blooms at Tuckahoe, is the delicate, oldfashioned, little white flower known as The Lady of Leeds66 It would be interesting to research the existing varieties in the current daffodil rows to see if any of these varieties that Sales mentions have persisted, possibly dating their introduction into the landscape. It is uncertain which family planted the thousands of daffodils that still herald spring each year. Their numbers have declined in recent decades as seen in this picture at left. Factors may include compression of the soil, overcrowding or depth of the bulbs. Different varieties of daffodils have been added to the rows and interplanted with the old planting. The cultivar of bulbs evident in historic Coolidge photos can still be seen in clumps throughout the rows.

65 66

HGV HGV

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Sales also describes the sloped wooded area below the schoolhouse south of the former maze site and the probable route of visitors from the low-ground to the house. She hints at terracing, down below, upon a terraced bit of woodland, montbretias, or blackberry lilies naturalized. She goes on to describe this area in more detail, ...jonquils have spread into a veritable Cloth-of-Gold field, flinging their April trumpets above a mass of periwinkle blue as the sky. Jonquils still bloom on the southern slope, and periwinkle is a predominant ground-cover.67 Another account of possible terracing can be found in an essay written by Margaret Briscoe Robertson, a contemporary of Sales, simply states, beautiful terraces lead down to the river.68 In 1926, the Coolidges built a foot bridge over a stream at the base of this sloped woodland to access the railroad station69

It is likely that this had always been the customary route to the lowground, taking advantage of the gentler slope southeast of the mansion. This is the same route that Baron Von Closen probably made to the low grounds from the foot of the garden to the river.70 The location of the Coolidge footbridge can be ascertained from the Coolidge films and was described by the Baker family.

67 68

Sales, Edith Tunis. 1909 Stuart papers. 69 Coolidge Maintenance Records 70 Journal of Baron Von Closen

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During the latter years of Coolidge era, the landscape enjoyed continued maintenance as well as greater public exposure. Sales writings, and other instances of publication gave the gardens of Tuckahoe increased exposure and publicity during this time. In 1934, Tuckahoe was included in the Garden Club of Virginias budding Historic Garden Week tour. The tour began just six years prior as a way of generating funds for the restoration of historic gardens in Virginia. In a letter dated November 1934, the Chair of Garden Week, Anne Larus, asks the property managers of Tuckahoe, if Tuckahoe could host Garden Week on the tour again in 1935. According to Larus, Tuckahoe was an important contribution to the statewide garden tour. She states, It is always one of the most interesting places to be seen in the State both from a point of beauty and history; the house with its unrivaled panelling and the garden and its box. 71

71

Tuckahoe papers. Anne Larus to Coolidge family, November 1934

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XIII. Arthur A. Shurcliff 1929-1935

In 1929, Tuckahoe piqued the interest of Arthur A. Shurcliff, one of the most noted landscape architects associated with colonial design. Shurcliff is most well-known for his position as Chief Landscape Architect in the restoration of Colonial Williamsburg. His work on recreating the gardens and grounds of Williamsburg began in 1928 and continued until his retirement in 1941. Shurcliffs study of Tuckahoe was part of his effort through Colonial Williamsburg to record and measure landscapes of historic significance. Shown here is drawing done by a draftsman working in the office of A. Shurcliff in 1929. His observations and expertise were of great importance to the Coolidges during the last years of ownership and also served to guide the restoration efforts of the subsequent owner. His work was completed in 1935, just months after Tuckahoe was sold by the Coolidge family.

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In 1931, Shurcliff completed the measured draft, pictured above and final drawing of Tuckahoe to be included in his body of work. This project was referred to as the Southern Colonial Places Project and all related materials are held at the Rockefeller Library in Colonial Williamsburg. Photos courtesy The Rockefeller Library of Colonial Williamsburg.

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Through T his own words, we know th hat Shurcliff f revered Tu uckahoe for i its inherent beauty, authenticity a c significance e. Upon hear ring that Tu uckahoe wou uld be sold a and and historic its fate in n question, Shurcliff S wro ote a letter to then owne er, Harold J. Coolidge. I In this letter r he not only expands on the importa ance of Tuck kahoe as a hi istoric site b but also expr resses his concern for f its future e. Your Y family ha[s] h fully understood u the t beauty o of Tuckahoe and its histo orical si ignificance in Virginia, not n to say in n our Countr ry. If someon ne should co ome into possession of f this propert ty who did not n understa and and appr reciate these e facts, he place mig ght suffer, an nd the loss would w be a he eavy one to our Americana. 72 th In n this brief letter to Coo olidge, Shurc cliff does not t go into gre eat detail ab bout the landscape, however he h does nam me the most specific s featu ures, still evi ident then, t that he felt w were ost historic significance. s He felt Tuckahoe was typical of t the best of th he earliest of the mo places. He goes on to cite reaso ons when he states, For exam mple, the ap pproach drive eway is very y narro ow, perfectly y straight, and is unusua ally long. Th he cedar r trees on th he margins a are character ristic. At the e end of the e driveway t the ground r rises and you find yours self in the shapely fro ont yard wh hose proport tions were caref fully gauged d. Fortunate ely the rema ains of the ol ld drive eway here an nd the turna around are easy to distin nguish, and the shade tr rees are pres sent.73 From m his draw wing we can see the old e elms intersp persed with n new plant tings of elms s. A 60 elm m stands nex xt to an 8 tr ree of its sa ame kind, on ne day hopin ng to replace e the old tree e and tell it ts story in th he landscape e. His rever rence for Tu uckahoes his storic signi ificance can b be seen in his letters to Coolidge at t the end of o their own ership and in subsequen nt corre espondence w with the ow wner, Mrs. Is sabelle Baker r. He ex xplains in hi is first letter r to the new w owner, tha at in his se even years o of measuring g historic pla aces, he fou und Tuck kahoe to be o one of the m most interesting of all the e place es and one w which preserv ved more fai ithfully than n other rs the earma arks of ancie ent designs. Mrs. Bakers goal to preserve p Tuc ckahoe must t have been known k by Sh hurcliff at th he time of th he sale. He e ends his letter r with reassu urance, by saying, Stud dents of Sou thern places s are gratifie ed to hear th hat you inten nd to preserv ve the ancien nt layout of f Tuckahoe a and that the arrangemen nt of building gs, fences, ya ards, garden ns and old ap pproaches will w not be dis splaced by m modern desig gn.74

72 73

Shurcli iff letter to Co oolidge. Thom mpson papers Shurclif ff letter to Coo olidge. Thomp pson papers 74 Shurclif ff letter to Bak ker, Tuckahoe e papers.

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Shurcliff saw the defining g eighteenth h century cha aracter oric importance of the nu umerous his storic outbui ildings. and histo In this fo ollowing exc cerpt from his letter to Mrs. M Baker h he explains, T To the right t lies the rem markable gro oup of outbuildings placed in ro ows. There are a few country se eats in the South S wh here so man ny of the outbuildings remain in th heir authentic locations and where w their relation r to th he front yard d in so ch haracteristic c.75 This T drawing g confirms th he existence e of a row of f trees in the ser rvice yard as s seen in the e 1919 Cooli idge tree pla anting plan Shurcliff is the first f to desig gnate what kind k of trees s they were. We W can see he ere in this dr rawing locus st were the old dominant tree in the service yard d and that in n 1941 four o locusts re emained in a line. Shurcliff mak kes a point of mentioning g that the graveyar rd is characteristically placed p and the t maze an nd schoolho ouse are plac ced in the V Virginia manner.76 Whe en he mentione ed the placem ment of the cemetery, he e states nea ar it are two box b gardens. One is su urely the box x maze, how ever it is not cle ear what or where w the se econd box garden g is. I It may be that he h is speaking g of the Gho ost Walk. He H was also m most interested in layout of o trees in th he various la awns, which he recorded d in his measured plan. Anothe er area of par rticular inter rest for Shurcliff wa as the South h slope from the ma ansion house e to the cana al site. He oposed in his s drawing th hat a straigh ht pro pat th, with ram mps and steps s, lead from the Sou uth steps of the house to o the low-gr round wit thin a short distance of a former lan nding on the towpath h of the cana al. He notes t that evid dence of bric cks existed t then from th he top p of the bluff f to roughly halfway dow wn the e bank.

75 76

Shurclif ff letter to Bak ker, Tuckahoe e Papers Shurclif ff letter to Bak ker, Tuckahoe e Papers

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This T aerial ta aken in 1927 7, shows the ancient des sign of Tuc ckahoe the w way Shurcliff f saw it, during g the latter years y of the Coolidge ow wnership. No ote the large e elms in the e main appro oach, cedar lan ne and road system, s all of o which he found f to be m most import tant.

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XIV X The Bak ker/Thomp pson Family y Tuckahoe T wa as purchased d in the fall of o 1935 by N Nehemiah Ad ddison Baker and his wife, Isabelle Ball B Baker. Students S of Southern S pla aces had eve ery reason to o be gratified d in hearing g of the Bakers intention ns for Tucka ahoe. For thr ree generatio ons, the Bak kers have ma ade the preservat tion of Tuck kahoe not on nly a priority y, but a fami ily value. Ov ver the last 75 years, changes have come to t Tuckahoe es landscape e, as nature w would decree e and as each successive e generatio on has left th heir mark. Today, T Tuck kahoe is own ned and main ntained by t the grandchi ildren and great-grandchildren of Nehemiah N and Isabelle Baker in a fam mily partner rship. Currently, the Baker rs grandson, Addison Baker Thomp pson lives at t Tuckahoe w with his wife e Susan C. Thompson and family. Nehemiah N an nd Isabelle Baker, began restoration efforts shor rtly after the eir purchase in 1935. Th hey embarke ed on a perio od of revitalization of bo th the groun nds as well a as buildings. Mrs. Bak kers interest t in the gard dens is evide ent by her re ecords, her e extensive library of gard den books an nd her memb bership in bo oth the local chapter of t the Garden C Club of Virg ginia and the e Horticult tural Comm mittee of the Garden G Club b of America a. Her cont tributions to o Tuckahoes s landscape were nume erous and ca an still be seen today in the modern design of th he garden. Within the first fiftee en years of ownership, o Mrs. M Baker c commissione ed the exper rtise of two w wellknown la andscape arc chitects, Flet tcher Steele and Charles s Gillette. In n 1941, Mrs. Baker hired Steele to advise a her in n the restora ation of the g grounds. Ste eeles report an nd memory sketch s are an n important set of docum ments pertai ining to the landscape o of Tuckaho oe during the e Baker perio od. He discu ussed, at gre eat length, di ifferent area as of the landscape and his rec commendati ions for how w to treat the e different ar reas. He foc cused on, according g to Mrs. Ba akers request: the cedar r lane, the m main lawn, th he area south of the hou use, rounds is he the box maze m and th he arbor in the t forecourt t. His acco unt of the gr elpful in determin ning the stat te of such fea atures at the e time and in n understand ding what M Mrs. Baker thought was most im mportant or in need of ex xpertise. He e included a memory sk ketch in his s o remind Mr rs. Baker of the t different t points they y discussed d during a visi it he made to o the report to plantatio on in 1940. In I addition to t completin ng a report, M Mrs. Baker also request ted that Stee ele research Coolidge pa apers for any y reference to t Tuckahoe es landscape e that could help to guid de her decisions s. It is not known k what he found or if he was ab ble to satisfy y her request t. His report t and suggestio ons were bas sed on a site e visit and di iscussions w with Mrs. Ba aker. Steele felt th hat one of th he most impo ortant quest tions regarding the histo oric landscap pe at Tuckaho oe pertained to the initial grading of f the land. In n his report to Mrs. Bak ker, he state es, I believe th hat the most t serious que estion, altho ough not one e that affec cts you immediately, is the t division line, which i is quite evident to a pro ofessional la andscape arc chitect, betw ween ance Yard and the side towards t the river. The the Entra grading was w evidentl ly made fairly even back k to the schoolho ouse and the correspondi ing offices across the ya ard. Thence the drop is n noticeable toward th he river side e. I believe th hat at some time there w was a recogn nition of this s division bu ut just what t form it too ok would tak ke considerab ble study to determine. In this por rtion of his drawing we can see the t delineati ion of the edge of lawn and bank. Steele also f felt that the brick walk from m the South entrance of f the house extended e in a straight lin ne down to t the canal sit te.

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He H recommen nded that Mrs. M Baker make m a balus strade of bric cks as eviden nce that ther re was no uncertainty u about a the con ntinuance of f the straigh ht walk down n from the h house. It sho ould be noted that Shurcliff shared th his assumptio on and mark ked on his dr rawing wher re he found evidence of bricks ex xtending dow wn the slope e. In additio on to the step ps straight d down the southern n slope, Steel le believed th here was evi idence to su ggest terrac cing extendi ing east from m the steps to a point direc ctly south of f the schoolh house follow wing the cont tour of the land in a qua arter circle pat th. There T is a str rong indication of forme er terracing in this wood dland area, w whether it w was done by Mrs. M Baker upon Fletch her Steeles suggestion s o or is the sam me quarter te erracing that t Steele saw evidence of o when he interpreted i the t landscap pe in 1941. B Brick rubble e is found in the site he de escribes as an a important t point in the e landscape (pictured be elow). Steel le describes this point a as an axis for r many converging paths. The entrance to o the box ma aze in the cor rner meets the ed dge of the ca arefully grad ded lawn, wh hereby an ac ccess road leads east e to the fa armyard. Th his is where he recommended creating brick steps d down to a a brick path, following a quarter terr race around to the South h steps. Fur rther archaeologic cal investiga ation could p prove the ex xistence of th hese features. Steel le also noted d in his repo ort that the slope of the e hill between the e brick walk and the Box x Garden sh hows obvious s vestiges of former f terra acing. This s is most inte eresting bec cause this slope is more gentle than the sl lope directly y south of th he house and is s likely the b beginning of f the route to the lowground as described d by Von Closen n in 1782 as the maze th hat led us to the e James and d again by Sales in the 1 1920s when she states, d down below, upon a terraced bit of woodland. w S Steele believ ved that furt ther investiga ation would reveal multi iple former terraces t cut in a quarter r circle exten nding into th he woodland d area south h and east of f the house. He H recomme ended that Mrs. M Baker re estore the fir rst quarter terrace t below w the lawn edge e to join a single fligh ht of steps ext tending strai ight down fr rom the hou use. Mrs. Ba aker apparent tly followed through wit th the flight of steps dire ectly south of the house, however h it is s unknown if f she comple eted the curved terrace t walk k joining the e steps to th he box garde en. Remnant ts of brick ca an be seen where w Steele illustrates a landing joining th he many pat ths. Further r excavation n of this area a could determin ne if Mrs Bak ker followed d through wi ith this idea or if the former quarter terracing existed d prior to Ste eeles survey y work. Thi is area has al lso been described d by Jessie Ball B Baker in n an essay wr ritten somet time after he er parents bo ought Tucka ahoe in 1935. She states, Down a litt tle woodland d path in the e direction o of the river, y you are led through a rock garde en. It is in a state of wil ldness, havin ng been left to its own n natural grow wth for many y years. Ther re are few re emains of cu ultivated flow wers and onl ly a rotting, wooden bri idge shows a sign s of development.

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The bridge she is speaking of is evident in the Coolidge films and was replaced during the Baker period. There is no bridge or path left to show the former woodland garden, however Steele may hint at its location in his 1941 letter to Mrs. Baker. Steele advises Mrs. Baker to create a new rock garden around the existing spring house where water has cut a ravine. This area, according to Steele, should match the natural ravine below the farm barn. This natural ravine could be the site of the woodland garden, path and former bridge.

This photo above from the 1950s shows the view of the low grounds and James River as it was maintained by the Baker family, with cleared vistas. Today this area is maintained much the same way as seen below in this photograph taken in April

Mr. Steeles sketch and letter to Mrs. Baker also mentions the spring, south of the house on the bank. In his drawing he notes the spring and path which Mrs. Baker expressed an interest in creating a rock garden, possible like the overgrown one her daughter writes about in the above essay. It is unclear whether or not Mrs. Baker followed through with this idea. The brick spring house may date back to the Allen period, as it was mentioned in her letter that Joseph Allen covered over the spring with brick.

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Steeles S letter to Mrs. Baker outlines o his pro oposed plan fo r the improvem ment of the lan ndscape on the e so outhern front of o the house fac cing the river.

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Steele also gave advice concerning existing features in the landscape. As far as the box maze, Steele recommended that Mrs. Baker give up growing flowers in the 57 beds. The goal should be the maintenance of the boxwood itself. Through photographs, such as the one at left, it appears Mrs. Baker followed his advice on the maze and focused on the health of the boxwood and the integrity of the original design, as seen in these photos.

The maze in the early years of the Baker period. Notice the overgrown perennials in the beds.

Like the Coolidges, Mrs. Baker resigned to focus solely on the boxwood rather than the flowers within the beds. Few flowers are apparent in these photos when contrasted with the box maze during the early Coolidge era and as described by Sales. As the Coolidges and Bakers both found, it was the health of the boxwood that was priority. Over the next few decades, the boxwood in the maze would continue to decline in health. It is impossible to know the exact cause for the boxwood decline. Among the possible causes is the Phytophthora Root Rot, a disease caused by the fungus Phytophthora parasitica. The symptoms of this disease closely match the descriptions and observations made by both the Coolidge and Baker families, and is supported by photographs from the period. Above ground symptoms include foliar discoloration and diminished growth. The root disease causes extensive damage to the overall health of the plant prior to symptoms appearing above ground. In the late 1970s, the maze was finally removed. The design of the garden, as a tightly planted hedge, allowed the disease to quickly spread. By the time the difficult decision was made to remove the maze, according to one owner, the plants could simply be pushed over. Since that time, the former maze site has been left void of a garden, an empty square in the landscape. It seems to be the most appropriate way to honor such an important historic garden that can never be replaced. It is now but a garden ghost.

View of box maze following pruning during Baker period

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Steeles report also focused on the placement of trees in the cedar lane, main approach and the trees that obscured the view shed of the low ground and river. The cedars on the lane, Steele felt, looked best where they are separated to some extent from the adjoining woods. He advised, clearing up the woods and removing the trees to a distance of at least twenty feet outside the fence.77 He felt specimen trees should be left in the southern view, however smaller trees should be removed to open the vista. Steele felt that the lawns surrounding the house should be void of evergreen trees which would look spotty in the deciduous growth.78 He also advised that trees outside the rows of elms in the main lawn should be removed. In Mrs. Bakers time at Tuckahoe, many of the old American elms succumbed to Dutch Elm disease, leaving spaces in the old double rows along the final approach. These trees were replaced with new trees, careful to avoid any type of evergreen. We do know that Mrs. Baker followed through on Steeles suggestions regarding the treatment of trees in the landscape. She maintained a clear vista to the river, the deciduous canopy of the main lawn, and the cedars lining the lane.
The box maze as it was enjoyed and maintained in the later years of the Baker period.

77 78

Letter from Steele to Baker. Thompson papers. Letter from Steele to Baker. Thompson papers.

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XV. X The Gil llette Garde en Mrs. M Baker would w contin nue to mainta ain the exist ting landscap ape according g to Steeles suggestio ons, and valu ues of preser rvation, but would also create her o own garden a at Tuckahoe e. Just eigh ht years after r hiring Flet tcher Steele, Mrs. Baker r commission ned Mr. Cha arles Gillette e to design a garden that t would serve as both a formal f garde en space and d family bury ying ground d. The Mem morial Garden is an elab borate design n of paths an nd flowers b beds compris sed of an upp per and lowe er garden.

In 1949, the e Memorial Garden n at Tuckaho oe was instal lled nted. Locate ed at the end d of and plan the Gho ost Walk, ne ext to the Randolp ph Cemetery y, the Memo orial Garden n is now the f final resting g place fo or five memb bers of the Baker family. In this Bake er family ph hoto, we see t the original grave marker of John Ho opkins Bake er, Isabelle an nd Nehemi iah Bakers s son who passed away in n 1946. Mrs. Baker place ed her sons grave at the end of th he Ghost W Walk as the focal point o of the path h and the ga arden was created in his honor r. This pictu ure above w was taken du uring Garden n Week in n either 1957 or 1959. The pictu ures below, taken nearly y fifty years apart, show w changes in the garden yet also serv ve to me experien demonstr rate the way y the space has h been mai intained to e evoke the sam nce of a gard den room and d burial site. .

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Gillettes s plant list fo or the 1949 Me emorial Gard den included d 40 old fashio oned roses of o 6 kinds, an nd 593 linear fee et of dwarf boxwood b to line l the flowe er beds and walks. w Mass s plantings s of tulips, candytuft and d pinks filled the garde en with colo or and fragrance e for Garden n Week. Spr ring and summ mer perenni ials such as peony, p hollyhock k, foxglove, and lilies ca arried the garde en through the t season. Pictured here at left, the Baker family f enjoys th he garden at the peak blo oom of April. The T bones of f the garden would be laid in n boxwood, both b to creat te walls and d to line vari ious borders s and beds. The initial plan nting include ed 9 specimen n boxwood trees. These e could be the lar rge boxwood creating th he eastern wall w of the garden and entrance from the Gh host Walk.

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During the Baker era, the area north of the maze acted as a vegetable garden as it did during the Coolidge era. Rows upon rows of iris still bloomed in paths between vegetables as Sales had described in 1923. This area of mixed flowers and vegetables made up one quarter of Wallace's drawing from Sales description. These rows of peonies and irises go back to the early Coolidge period and since there is no record of Coolidges planting new gardens at Tuckahoe, it is quite possible that this is a remnant of Virginia Allens garden at Tuckahoe.

These photos are part of the Thompson family papers, housed at Tuckahoe and show Mrs. Baker with a caretaker, Mr. Pillow, plowing the vegetable garden amongst rows of old iris.

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Featured F in Colonial C Wil lliamsburgs s 1957 film, The Story o of a Patriot , Tuckahoe played its natural rol le as a Virginia plantatio on set in the e eighteenth century. Im mages on file e at the Rock kefeller Libra ary in Colon nial Williamsburg from the film offe er glimpses i into the landscape as it was in n 1957.

icture above e shows the f flight The pi of f brick steps added on th he South fron nt slo ope as Mr. S Steele had su uggested. Th his sin ngle flight o of steps is int tended to hin nt at the former sta aircase to the e canal that both Shurcliff f and Steele t thought may y have existed at one tim me. In n this pictur re (at left) of f the maze, a trellis of sh hade material had been co onstructed o over a portion of the boxwood d. This may y have been a an effort to p prevent burn ning by the winter w sun. A symptom o of burning, y yellowing of f the foliage, is also sympt tomatic of th he disease th hat killed the e box maze. This T picture of the vegetable garden, at t right, lies north of the maze. Ju ust to the his area, are the mixed ir ris and veget table plots o of Mrs. east of th Bakers garden, g as se een in photos on the prev vious page. Tuckahoe T enj joyed anothe er round of publicity p in 1957 and 1959 bein ng part of Historic H Gard den Week to our for the fi irst time since the e Coolidge er ra in the mid d- 1930s. Th he memorial l garden was just newly revita alized, the maze m was stil ll in existenc ce and thous sands of daff fodils bloom med in the yard for Garden Week. The e gardens did d not see mu uch change o or great reju uvenation ag gain for anoth her twenty years. y As Mr rs. Baker age ed she contin nued to main ntain Tucka ahoe building gs and histo oric features to a high st tandard. The e farm land w was maintai ined as well as fence line es, pasture and a all farmy yard outbuil ldings. One major m additi ion to the landscape was s a pond in t the ravine to o the west of f the outbuild dings and ic ce house site e. Mrs. Bake er was likely y restoring a an earlier po ond site, giv ven the topog graphy and its i relation to the earlie er site of the e ice house.

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XV VI.

Prese ervation Du uring the Ba aker/Thom mpson Perio od

Attention A in the t family tu urned from the details of the landscape to th he very big r landscape was w picture. The greater ed by develo opment. Th he Virginia threatene Departm ment of Transportation had h plans for a new w highway to o circumvent the western side of Richm mond which h would take it th hrough Tuck kahoe lands, bisecting the historic landscap pe. This called for historys victory ove er progress and a what transpire ed was a batt tle of histori ic proportio on. Route 288 was set to t make its way thro ough Tuckah hoes eastern n side. Mrs. M Baker, then t 89 year rs old and her daug ghter, Mrs. Jessie Baker Thompso on, along with w her children, William Taliaferro Thompson T II II, Addison Baker Thom mpson and Jessie Baker Th hompson Kr rusen were the plaintiffs in the case. The defend dant was Douglas B. Fugate, Commission C ner of the Virginia Highway Co ommission. Am map of the pr roposed Route 288 thro ough Tuckah hoes eastern n side.

Historical Data D Campai ign began to collect t all informa ation of histo oric significa ance to have Tuckahoe T co onsidered for r designation n as a Nation c Landmark and thus, nal Historic making a fight again nst the highw way possible e. Mrs. Jessie e Thompson n and her chi ildren sough ht the help of the Coolid dge family in n their effor rt to prove T Tuckahoes h historic impo ortance and stop the highw way develop pment at Tuc ckahoe. Re ecords of this s correspond dence betwe een the two families and a the hist torical data campaign that t ensued h have been ar rchived at th he Virginia Historica al Society an nd are valuab ble for any 79 future research on Tuckahoe. T Tuckahoe T wa as designated d a National l Historic Landmark in 1969 and through the e tireless efforts e of the e Thompson family, they y won the legal battle to save Tuckahoe from being sca arred by a hi ighway. Visitors to Tuckaho oe today enjo oy quiet peac ce because of this extra aordinary le egal fight and rare victory for fo history.

79

Thomp pson papers, VHS V

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Between 1969 and 1977, Tuckahoes gardens and grounds did not see any great change. The greater landscape was maintained and preserved, but the gardens did not see any great rejuvenation during this time. The boxwood maze continued to decline during this decade. After Mrs. Baker died, her daughter Jessie Thompson never made Tuckahoe her primary home, rather, she lived in town and continued to look after Tuckahoe while her children made Tuckahoe their home. In the early 1970s, the eldest grandson, William Taliaferro Thompson occupied Tuckahoe with his wife Carey for five years. Soon after, in 1977, Addison Baker Tad Thompson and his wife Susan C. Sue Thompson moved to Tuckahoe. Tad and Sue have made Tuckahoe their home for over thirty years. The property is currently owned by the seventeen members of the Thompson family, Mrs. Bakers grandchildren and great-grandchildren. In addition to protecting Tuckahoe from the highway, the Thompson family went on to ensure Tuckahoes future in an even more profound way. In 1986, the Thompson family granted a historic easement to the National Trust for Historic Preservation. This guaranteed the peace of Tuckahoe again. The historic easement and subsequent conservation easements placed on the property protect the low grounds, land along the cedar lane, and the fenced area surrounding the house and grounds. These easements stipulate that the integrity of their character will remain in perpetuity. The area outlined in pink is protected along the lane, while the house and outbuildings are protected under a separate easement, shown in blue.

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XVII. Addison B. Tad and Susan C. Sue Thompson 1977-Present By the time Sue and Tad Thompson moved to Tuckahoe in 1977, the whole Baker/Thompson family was still reveling in the renewed security of Tuckahoes future. It was inevitable that the landscape and gardens had suffered neglect while their historic preservation efforts took center stage. By the late 1970s, most of the old elms that graced the main lawn of Shurcliffs drawing had almost all succumbed to Dutch Elms disease. The English boxwood scattered about was suffering with disease and the box maze had been removed. The remnants of the two flower/vegetable gardens of Wallaces drawing and Mrs. Bakers cutting gardens had dwindled to patches of peonies and iris. Old, undated shrubs claimed spaces in the landscape here and there. The Gillette garden had overgrown its walks and bounds and was in need of rejuvenation. Over the next 30 years, under Sue Thompsons care and management, the landscape of Tuckahoe would enjoy a great period of revitalization and restoration. The restoration efforts in the landscape since the early 1980s have been extensive. Historic landscape features as well as the introduction of new garden spaces over the last 30 years will be outlined. The Thompsons have maintained the greater landscape features which so often suffer the vestiges of time. They replanted many cedars on the lane, and cleared the encroaching growth of timber, to define the rows of trees. Numerous young cedars were transplanted to the northernmost end of the lane to complete the tree-lined drive. This effort can be compared to the Coolidge tree planting campaign of 1919.

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The River View and Terraced South Bank In addition to re-planting trees, the Thompson family has also continuously removed trees from areas that historically would have been bare, such as the south bank and river-view. Trees and dense overgrowth have been completely removed from the terraced area south of the house to reveal the view of the low-grounds and river, a view that had been cleared as recently as the 1950s by Mrs. Baker. The terraces on the South slope have been defined as we can see in this section of the survey.

The view of Tuckahoe from the low-ground has been preserved by the clearing of trees along the south facing hillside and terraced area below the house. These photos were taken in 1909 and 2009.

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The Main Approach The approach through the north lawn ends in a faint circle in front of the house, evident by a worn indentation in the earth, and shown on this survey. The circle drive is evident in this Coolidge photo below. Care is taken not to compromise this fragile landscape feature.

The elm lined portion of the drive including the daffodil rows has been the site of continual rejuvenation for the last thirty years. As each old tree has fallen, a new one is planted. With time, these disease resistant cultivars of elm will create the open yet shaded North lawn as seen in this 1909 Coolidge photo.

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The Daffodil Rows Old varieties of daffodils have been added to the rows, inter-planted with the historic clumps still persistent from the Coolidge photos. This effort has successfully recreated the thickly planted mass of bulbs that had grown thin since the Coolidge era.

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The Ghost Walk

In 2007, the entrance gate to the ghost walk was shifted north slightly in order to restore the paths straight line as seen in this Allen photograph. The growth of the boxwood had caused the line to shift. It appears in this historic photo that the Allens added a row of box to re-define the straight line. It is possible that this inside row of box merged with the larger line and created the shift that resulted in a non-linear path. It is widely assumed that the original intention of the design was to be a straight line with a focal point near the cemetery area. This move of the gate should be noted, however because it is possible that the original gate location could have significance as a point in the original arrangement of the grounds. The posts of the gate and stone threshold were adjusted approximately three feet north.

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The Boxwood Maze

The area east of the schoolhouse is still affectionately referred to as the maze although the famous garden is long gone. The outline of the old hedge design has been redefined with new boxwood plantings. This serves to memorialize the space as well as mark the space for future interpretation. It is clear in the survey that the area slopes to the southeast. The southern edge of the area appears to have been terraced to create a step down from the level garden to the sloping hillside of the wooded grove area. The box maze area is not level however, and the slight slope could have attributed to drainage issues with the box garden. The areas of greatest disease were first observed in the lowest area to the south east corner (bottom left of maze in photo below).

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The Memorial Garden

In 1980, the Memorial Garden underwent a massive rejuvenation and has been maintained in the same manner since this time. The edging boxwood had failed to line the garden and invasive plants such as poison ivy and English ivy had overtaken the beds. This drawing by Stockner (above), shows areas of the garden that were revitalized and re-planted. During this restoration in 1980/1981, a total of 165 boxwood were transplanted into the garden along with other plants listed on the original Gillette plan from 1941, such as; dogwood, crepe myrtle, and peonies. Numerous azaleas were introduced to the garden at this time, probably due to the shadier spaces created by the mature box and trees. Some of the original plant material intended by Gillette has been removed in subsequent rejuvenation plantings and have substituted with plants that are either easier to maintain or help to create a garden with four-season interest. Today, the memorial garden includes many of the perennial plants listed in this 1941 plan, including delphinium, candytuft, dianthus, peonies, phlox, digitalis, chrysanthemum and asters.

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Plantation Street

The working side of the plantation, known as Plantation Street and Service Yard has historically been void of garden spaces. The area around the dependencies historically would not have been adorned by ornamental plantings era seen in this early photograph. Large boxwood, planted in the 1950s had obscured the front of the building. They have been removed from in front of the structures to expose the architecture and restore the stark feeling to evoke an earlier time.

Over the last thirty years plantings have been installed in between the buildings on Plantation Street as seen in this photo above. They are more naturalized and have been left serving as a screen to the main lawn (east) and sloped woodland to the west.

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The Her rb Garden pson had a ki itchen garde en designed and installed d in the spac ce adjacent t to In 1981, Sue Thomp and behin nd the old kitchen and pump p house. Above is a photo of th he entrance t to the modern kitchen garden g from Plantation Street. The e photos take en in 2008 show the intr ricate design n. The black b and wh hite photo s hows the kit tchen door c circa 1900 as s it th likely y would have e been in the e 18 centur ry. The colo or picture sh hows the kitchen k with modern accents. The h herb garden is filled with h herbs s, perennials s and annual ls to create a pleasing bl loom for the e four seaso ons. As in th he Memorial l Garden, clo osest attenti ion if paid to o the boxw wood which outline o and d define the sp pace.

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Vegetable and Cutting Gardens The area of the ghost walk and maze area has functioned as a vegetable garden space since the Coolidge era and potentially as far back as the Randolphs. We know this area contained clumps of iris and peonies when the property was sold by the Coolidges. During Edith Tunis Sales time at Tuckahoe, she describes this area as a vegetable garden bisected by iris-bound grass walks. This is illustrated by Wallace in the drawing at right. Pictured below are the Baker family cutting flowers which appear to still be in rows.

The peonies are currently maintained in long linear beds surrounding the vegetable and cutting gardens. Numerous cultivars create a long bloom season.

Today, the garden has been restructured in this area to serve modern needs of the landscape. Numerous vegetable and flower beds fill this space and have been arranged in linear designs. The old clumps of peonies have been consolidated to rectangular beds. They are not considered restoration gardens, but rather serve to evoke the feeling of 18th century gardens in the area that was most likely always used for this purpose.

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Hurricane Isabel, 2003 The name Isabel carries two distinct meanings at Tuckahoe. In 1935 the home was purchased by Isabelle Ball Baker, Grannybelle, as she was lovingly referred. Tuckahoe was saved by Isabelle. In 2003, a storm by the same name nearly destroyed it. Hurricane Isabel made landfall on September 18th 2003, to live in infamy as one of the costliest storms in Virginia. Winds of up to 73 mph were reported at Richmond International Airport, and rainfall amounts set records. Due to the record-breaking rainfall and prior wet season, large trees fell because the high wind and saturated ground. Tuckahoe was not spared the strength of the storm.

The poplar as a young tree during the Coolidge era

The landscape of Tuckahoe suffered the loss of many great trees during this particular storm. Many of the largest cedars on the lane could not withstand the saturated soil and high wind. They were a loss in and of themselves, but caused no greater damage. The greatest damage to the property was caused by a tulip poplar, one of the great trees of Tuckahoe. Pictured at left in the 1990s, the tree dwarfs the mansion house. The tree was planted during the Coolidge era, thus making it a century old tree when it fell. The fast growing poplar had been pollarded at different times throughout its life to control its rapid growth and potential threat. The tree was uprooted by wind and fell into the north end of the mansion house. The initial impact caused severe damage to the structure as the tree rolled off the northern roof and crushed the north porch entirely. The damage to the mansion was extensive. Damage to the north roof from impact had compromised the structural integrity and the north porch would require complete reconstruction. Tuckahoes roofline had been opened to the elements. Immediately following impact, the compromised roofline allowed the heavy rains to pour into the north end of the house. Following the storm, a year-long restoration of the interior and exterior of the mansion house ensued.

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2007 Ground Penetrating Radar Survey On behalf of the Association for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities, the owners of Tuckahoe commissioned a ground penetrating survey team to survey both the Randolph and Wight cemeteries and an area of the main lawn. Dr. William F. Hanna and Claude E. Petrone conducted groundpenetrating radar surveys of these three distinct areas over the period of November 1215 2007. The initial focus of the study was the brick burial vault located within the Randolph cemetery that had been recently exposed during planting. This resulted in a comprehensive report and map of the cemetery graves using ground penetrating radar technology. They were able to map the possible grave sites in both family cemeteries using a subsurface survey technology of minimal disturbance. The brick vault, wall and restoration were also described in detail in an article featured in The Times, October 20. 1898. The vault, according to the article, was peculiarly constructed, being built beneath the ground so that the top was about on a level with the surface of the earth. Inside is a sharp arch, about ten feet deep and seven feet wide, and about six feet high in the center. The doorway was about five feet high, and three and one-half feet wide, facing the west, and was only accessible by steps from above.80The brick burial vault within the wall was entirely underground, as it was when Miss Dickens restored the wall in 1892. She states, there is no sign of the vault from the top, as it is all underground. The radar survey showed three adult burials inside the vault, one metallic, at about 6 ft. depth and two side by side at about 3ft. depth. The research team also concluded that outside the vault but within the cemetery wall there are four adult burials and six infant burials. According to Dickens, the last internment in the vault was that of Thomas Mann Randolph, Sr. in 1793. At that time, the vault was sealed. Dr. Hanna did additional research into this style of underground burial vaults from the Colonial period to aid in the understanding of the vault. He found that relatively little information is available on this particular style of burial.
80

The Times. October 20 1898.

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Fortunately, Hanna came across a 1858 article from the New York Times describing brick vaults of a similar style found under the chapel at the college of William and Mary81. With the new physical account of these colonial vaults and a description in the 1898 article on Tuckahoe in the Times, Hanna set about to determine which description was closer to the physical dimensions of the vault at Tuckahoe. The team concluded with radar models that the dimension of the vault was not in-line with the account in the 1898 article, Historic Tuckahoe. Instead, they were the same size as the brick vaults beneath the chapel floor at the College of William and Mary. According to the article, a restoration of the chapel floor revealed several subsurface, brick vaults. According to Hanna, the Tuckahoe vault is closer in dimension to the vaults of the chapel at William and Mary, five feet broad inside, just large enough to hold two coffins; eight feet long and the height from the bottom to the crown of the arch four and a half feet....is made of common bricks and mortar, put together roughly, as it could be seen only [when uncovered]82

Hanna also notes the similarity in rough construction between the William and Mary vaults and what he observed of the exposed portion of the Tuckahoe vault. Most interesting to note is that these vaults were not only most similar to the Tuckahoe vault physically but were Randolph graves as well. One vault at the chapel of William and Mary was that of Sir John and Lady Randolph. John was the sixth son of William Randolph of turkey Island and thus, brother of the first Randolph of Tuckahoe, Thomas.
81 82

Hanna, William. Hanna, William.

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The T 2007 GP PR survey team was also asked to d determine th he existence of other outbuildi ings on the eastern e side of the main lawn on an area extend ding north fr rom the schoolho ouse and mir rroring Plantation Street to the west83. Several mature box xwoods and modern planting p site es lie in the path p of this hypothetical h l line of buil ldings and m made much o of the site unab ble to be surv veyed. The area able to be surveyed d is shown in n blue in the e drawing be elow. The team m concluded that there was w not suffi icient eviden nce to sugge est a one-to-o one mirrore ed row of ou ut-buildings, however, there t were re egions of de ep reflection ns that sugg gest the footprint ts of former structures. Archaeolog gical excavat tion of these e areas could d prove the existence e of structur res. .

83

Hanna, William.

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This T page of the report pictured p abov ve shows the e areas of interest. Their preliminar ry findings warrant furt ther archaeo ological inve estigation.

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Their fin ndings show the existenc ce of what could be thre ee grav ves near the entrance to the Ghost W Walk. One p particular ar rea just north of the e schoolhous se includes s several local lities of stro ong zontal reflec ctors. This r region almos st certainly c contains horiz horiz zontal featur res of histor ric importance.84

Another A area a of particula ar interest is s the entire northern n third of the e area under investigatio on. Radar findings conclude that this specific area cont tains soil that has been disturb bed to a dept th of seven feet f or more and contains brick. Dr. D Hanna proposes p tha at it is a possible that this are ea was cove ered with art tificial fill to decrease the grade or slope of th he topograph hic surface of the law wn. He furt ther notes th hat the fact that the demarcat tion between n disturbed and a undistur rbed soils is so straight and nearl ly coincident t with the in nferred northern n east-west conduit c may be relevant but we 85 have no explanation e .

Their sur rvey of the main m lawn an nd subseque ent analysis brought up more questi ions about th he earliest landscape than it hoped to answer. Their repor rt and initial l work would be an le tool in gu uiding future e archaeolog gical excavat tion of these areas. invaluabl

84 85

Hanna, William Hanna, William

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Tuckahoe Today Throughout Tuckahoes history, the home was almost always a primary residence. This has made the landscape more complex to study, but likewise makes the study more rich with stories of the people that made Tuckahoe home. Like the Allens in the 1850s and the Coolidges in the 1920s, the Thompsons would make the landscape their own, while maintaining the very essence of Tuckahoe. The Thompsons have maintained the greater landscape in much the same way as former owners. Pasture land and woodland boundaries have been retained and fence lines kept up. All historic structures have been maintained to the standard expected of a National Historic Landmark. Everywhere you look there is a reminder of a different era or family. We remember the Wights short tenure when we walk by their resting place. It will always be their home. With loving care, their grave markers have been saved as a record and the iron boundary of their graves, honored. The Allens are still very much alive in the landscape. Virginia Allen claims the box maze and ghost walk and in doing so, she claims the last bones of the old garden design. The Coolidge family left so much behind and their efforts stand the test of time. They added structures in their time at Tuckahoe. The garage on Plantation Street and the Sears farmhouse are both Coolidge additions. Their cedar lane restoration of 1912 is now represented in some of the oldest cedars on the lane. The schoolhouse restoration was a Coolidge accomplishment. They left their mark in documentation as well. Their careful record-keeping and surviving photos are invaluable to future research. Above all, we see the Randolphs ingenuity in the very essence of the landscape, in the layout of the estate, its arrangement of roads, buildings and delineation of space. These important elements have been preserved and continue to inspire study of the ancient design. The H shape house still enjoys the same views from each of its four doors. To the North, the wide open lawn welcomes guests from the long, cedar lane with its rows of elms and old circle drive. To the West, the dependencies line Plantation Street in the manner they always have. To the South, the house stands with a commanding prospect over the wide low ground to the James. Though we may not know the gardens of Tuckahoe that perhaps inspired young Jefferson, we need only imagine. To the East, the view is still a pleasure. Gardens are alive at Tuckahoe just as they have always been.

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Bibliography Books Agee, Helene Barrett Agee. Facets of Goochland Countys History. Richmond, Va. The Dietz Press. pp 4-11, 6579, Anburey, Thomas. Travels Through the Interior Parts of America, Vol II Boston: Houghton Mifflin Co., 1923. Betts, Edwin M., ed. Thomas Jeffersons Garden Book 1766-1824 With Extracts From His Other Writings. 1944. pp. 1, 20, 47, 54, 55, 58, 80, 92, 101, 148, 445, 449, 454, 468. Bullard,CeCe. Goochland: Yesterday and Today. Virginia Beach. The Donning Company. 1994 Krusen, Jessie Ball Thompson. Tuckahoe Plantation. Richmond: Whittet and Shepperson, 1975. ODell, Jeff Marshall. Inventory of Early Architecture and Historic and Archaeological Sites, County of Henrico.. Richmond: Virginia. System Printing. 197-201 Sale, Edith Tunis. Manors of Virginia in Colonial Times, 1706-1776. Chapel Hill: The University of North Carolina Press, 1946 Sale, Edith Tunis, ed. Historic Gardens of Virginia. Compiled by the James River Garden Club Richmond: William Byrd Press, 1923. Sale, Edith Tunis. Boxwoods and Terraced Gardens of Virginia. William Byrd Press, 1925. Trout, William E. III. Falls of the James Atlas. Lexington: Virginia Canals and Navigation Society 1997. Wight, Richard C. The Story of Goochland. Richmond: Richmond Press Journal and Newspaper Articles Anderson, Jefferson Randolph. Tuckahoe and the Tuckahoe Randolphs The Annual Report of the Monticello Association, 1936. Acomb, Evelyn M, The Revolutionary War Journal of Baron Ludwig Von Closen The William and Mary Quarterly. Vol 10, No. 2 1953 pp. 196-236 Coolidge, Archibald Cary. Tuckahoe. Massachusetts Historical Society Magazine June 1900. Royster, Lyle. Of Manor Houses and Gardens, Pioneer in the Study of Virginia Mansions. Virginia Calvacade. Vol 34 No. 3. pgs 126-135. Richmond Times Dispatch, Vol XIII No. 218 October 20, 1898. Troubetzskoy, Ulrich. Tuckahoe Plantation The Virginia Calvacade. Vol. 10 No 4 (Spring 1961) Tuckahoe Plantation. Goochland County Historical Society Magazine. Vol. 18 1986 Weeks, Elie. Lower Tuckahoe. Goochland County Historical Society Magazine. Vol. 4. No. 2 pg. 17.

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Letters and Collections of Family Papers Robertson, Margaret Briscoe (Stuart). Tuckahoe, A Colonial Reverie Stuart Family Papers. Virginia Historical Society. Baker-Thompson Family Papers housed at Tuckahoe Plantation Shurcliff, Arthur. Letter from Arthur Asahal Shurcliff to Isabelle Ball Baker, 1935. Steele, Fletcher. Letter from Fletcher Steele to Isabelle Ball Baker, 1931 Baker, Isabelle. Garden notes of Isabelle Ball Bakers 1936-1960 Gillette, Charles. Copy of plant list by Charles Gillette, 1949. Gillette, Charles. Letter from Gillette to Baker. 1949 Allen letter (copy) 1904 Allen letter (copy) 1909 Copy of notes by Francis Margaret Dickens regarding Randolph geneaology and cemetery wall restoration. Tuckahoe Papers. Backlog. Box 1-4 Virginia Historical Society. On loan by Addison B. Thompson. Coolidge notes regarding 288 construction. 1969 Notes regarding Historical Data Campaign 1969 Letters between Harold Jefferson and Roger Coolidge regarding Tuckahoe papers. Coolidge maintenance records. 1926-1935 Letter from Arthur Shurcliff to Harold Jefferson Coolidge, 1835 Randolph, Thomas Mann (1793-1851) Papers. Virginia Historical Society. Wight, Hezekiah Lord. Papers. 1765-1837. Virginia Historical Society Wight, Hezekiah Lord. Personal Interviews Addison Baker Thompson Susan C Thompson Illustrations and Other Coolidge Scrapbook. Box 1 V. Back Log Virginia Historical Society. On loan by Addison B. Thompson. Hanna, W. F., and Petrone, C. E. Ground Penetrating Radar Surveys at Tuckahoe Plantation. Association for the Preservation of Virginian Antiquities Project (APVA). February 2008. Whitten, David O. and Bessie E. Whitten, ed. Handbook of American Business History: A Historiographical and Bibliographical Guide, Volume 2 Greenwood Publishing Group, Apr 30, 1997 Google E-book. pg 19 Accounts. 1828-1838