Park District Manual - Pest Control

TABLE OF CONTENTS
Chapter 1 Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Chapter 6 Chapter 7 Chapter 8 Chapter 9 Introduction to Integrated Pest Management (IPM) Getting Started; Implementation Timeline/Checklist Monitoring and Evaluation Weeds Plant Diseases Wildlife Insects Soil, Turf, and Landscaping Making it official: An IPM Policy Appendix A Appendix B Appendix C Appendix D Appendix E Monitoring Forms Policy, Law and Regulations Product Supplier List Contact/Resource Information Resources 1-2 3-5 6 - 13 14 - 22 23 - 30 31 - 36 37 - 51 52 - 58 59 - 65 66 67 - 73 74 75 76 - 78
Special thanks to: Rick Stumpf, Park District of Highland Park; Phil Nixon, University of Illinois Extension; Julie Samuels, Openlands Project; John Masiunas, University of Illinois Extension; Raymond Cloyd, University of Illinois Extension; Bettina Francis, University of Illinois Extension; Dawn Nordby, University of Illinois Extension; Larry Hanks, University of Illinois Extension; Tom Voigt, University of Illinois Extension; Jennifer Grant; New York Extension; Rachel Rosenberg, Safer Pest Control Project; Kim Stone, Safer Pest Control Project; Fred Gullen, Superintendent of Parks Glenview; Dave Shangle, Dalsh Consulting for their contributions. Compiled and Edited by John Q. Knight.
CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION TO INTEGRATED PEST MANAGEMENT

WHY PRACTICE IPM?
Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is a system of controlling nuisance wildlife that uses a combination of methods to maximize the effectiveness of control, while minimizing pesticide applications and the potential hazards associated with their use. IPM offers park district management and staff a way of managing parks without depending on pesticides, which in turn provides a safer place for people to enjoy the outdoors, improves the health and vitality of the parks ecosystem, and ultimately reduces maintenance needs and costs. A Safer Place for People to Enjoy IPM is a pest control method that has been around for centuries. Current IPM programs arose out of a desire to manage areas such as parks without relying heavily on pesticides. Pesticides have been linked with a variety of health problems, ranging from acute short-term symptoms of poisoning such as nausea, dizziness, headaches, and aches and pains1 to chronic problems such as cancer2, endocrine disruption, asthma irritation3, and learning disabilities. Routine use of pesticides on park grounds may expose park users and staff to these short and long term health risks. Pesticide accidents such as spills or misapplications could subject the park or municipality to liabilities. Storing pesticides also includes the potential for accidents. Reducing pesticide use and using IPM helps reduce these risks. Improved Health and Vitality of the Parks Ecosystem Pesticides dont just harm or kill the undesired organism. They reduce populations of beneficial plants, insects, fish, and other organisms. They kill beneficial microorganisms in soil that are needed to grow healthy plants, in turn requiring the application of fertilizers to help these plants grow. This self-perpetuating cycle will often cause artificially healthy turf that relies heavily on chemical fertilizers. IPM focuses your efforts on maintaining healthy plants and soil, enabling you to more effectively control pest problems. When problems do arise, you can address them by more effectively choosing the most appropriate method weighing risk, costs, and effectiveness. Additionally, many IPM methods also reduce or eliminate the residues and run-off associated with applying pesticides particularly important in areas used by children. Reduced Maintenance Needs and Costs Over the long-term, IPM can reduce the costs associated with pest control (See Susqueanna School, p. 57). Repeated maintenance inputs of pesticides, herbicides, and chemical fertilizers can be phased
Lowengart, R. et al. 1987. Childhood leukemia and parents occupational and home exposures. Journal of the National Cancer Institute 79:39-46. 2 Davis, J.R., et al. 1993. Family pesticide use and childhood brain cancer. Archives of Environmental Contamination and Toxicology 24(February):87-92. 3 National Institutes of Health. National Heart, Lung, and Blood Institute. 1997. Guidelines for the Diagnosis and Management of Asthma (April), NIH Publication No. 97-4051.
1
Integrated Pest Management for Park Districts Safer Pest Control Project
out, restoring the natural balance of the soil, and eventually requiring fewer water and fertilizer inputs.
INTEGRATED PEST MANAGEMENT PRINCIPLES AND METHODS P

R I N C I P L E S
Eliminating insect, disease, and weed pest problems not eradicating all pests Applying pesticides, fertilizers, or watering only when the benefits outweigh the costs Considering all pest management options, including natural, biological, cultural, and chemical methods
(Adapted From: Gemplers 1999-2000 IPM Almanac)
Instead of relying on pesticides as the first choice to manage pest problems, IPM uses a hierarchy of pest control methods to maintain pest populations at or below levels determined by park management. A hierarchical list of these methods follows:
I P M

E T H O D S
Natural control creating habitat for natural predators of pests, i.e. planting native landscaping to attract dragonflies for mosquito control. Cultural control maintaining the site in a way to discourage pests. For example, maintaining grass heights of 2 to 3 inches to shade out weeds. Physical control removing the pest; i.e. employing someone to pull weeds from flowerbeds Biological controls applying insects or bacterium for pest control. For example, a bacterium called milky spore can be used to control Japanese Beetle grubs in turf. Least Toxic Chemical controls when all other methods have not brought pest populations to tolerable levels, chemical controls that are the least hazardous to the environment and nontarget or beneficial organisms should be considered.
CHAPTER 2 TRANSITIONING TO IPM (HOW TO USE THE MANUAL)

Transitioning to IPM will be a gradual process, taking at least a few seasons. To start, traditional pest management strategies, such as routine pesticide applications, should be phased out and replaced with IPM methods. Chapters 4 through 7 have sketches of pests (including weeds in Chapter 4) to aid in identification. Descriptions include the damage caused by the pest, coupled with specific IPM methods that can be implemented over the short and long term. The short-term methods will keep pests at acceptable levels while making the IPM transition. As you proceed, implementing long-term methods will begin to reduce the amount of maintenance and inputs needed. This manual is designed as a reference tool. Please flip through it, using the information pertinent to your site to design your IPM program. The steps in constructing a program are outlined in the timeline and checklist below, and are numbered sequentially. Details regarding each of the steps can be found in the following section entitled Explanation of Steps and in the cited chapters. Consult the chapter(s) before executing the step.
IPM P
R O G R A M
M P L E M E N T A T I O N T I M E L I N E A N D C H E C K L I S T
STEP 1 BEGINNING THE TRANSITION Phase out the use of pesticides Begin implementing short-term IPM methods STEP 2 ASSESSING THE SITE Collect and review historical information regarding the site Develop and draft monitoring form Collect soil sample(s) to be analyzed Conduct baseline assessment Analyze baseline assessment information and soil test results
Timeline (In Months) 0-4 0-4 4-6 6 7-8 7-8 8 8 8 9 on 9 on
STEP 3 DEVELOPING AN IPM PLAN Set an action threshold Prioritize pests and evaluate available resources; target methods Develop a monitoring schedule Plan for and implement IPM methods
STEP 4 CONTINUED MONITORING, RECORD KEEPING, AND EVALUATION Maintain detailed, consistent, and updated records 9 on Evaluate IPM program 9 on STEP 5 DEVELOPING/ADOPTING POLICY Draft IPM policy and adopt (Chapter 9 for example) 12 on
X P L A N A T I O N
O F
T E P S
:
3
EXPLANATION OF STEPS STEP 1 BEGINNING THE TRANSITION

A. Phase Out Pesticide Use and Implement Short-Term IPM Methods Chapters 4 7 Phase out chemical applications and begin to apply pesticides only where and when needed to control a specific pest. Identification of the pest(s) is an important first step in a successful IPM program. Sketches are provided to aid in identification and descriptions include short-term IPM methods for control (including least toxic products) that are less hazardous than traditional practices.
STEP 2 ASSESSING THE SITE

A. Prepare for and Conduct the Baseline Assessment Chapter 3 Before developing an IPM plan for your site, it is useful to observe and record conditions of weather, soil, and plants. Comparing current and past conditions will help to determine the cause of pest problems and the most effective methods of pest control for the site. Chapter 3 includes sample forms that may be used to gather this information.
STEP 3 DEVELOPING AN IPM PLAN

A. Set an Action Threshold Chapter 3 How many pests or weeds are acceptable? This section provides a framework to help you decide when a pest is problematic enough to warrant treatment. B. Prioritize Pests and Target IPM Methods Chapters 4 -7 Identify common causes for the pests that are found on the site, prioritize methods to control the pests that cause the most damage, and decide which methods are the most feasible for the site. C. Develop a Monitoring Schedule Chapter 3 Depending on the amount and type of pests identified, develop a routine schedule in which monitoring will be performed to ensure that pests are being maintained below the action thresholds. D. Plan for and Implement IPM Methods Chapter 3 Develop a routine schedule in which IPM methods will be implemented to meet action thresholds. Long-Term IPM Methods Chapter 8 Improving site conditions is the base of a successful IPM program. By modifying the soil, landscaping, and maintenance methods, plant health and pest resistance can be significantly improved, which leads to a higher level of pest tolerance and decreases the need for pest control activities.
STEP 4 CONTINUED MONITORING, RECORD KEEPING, AND EVALUATION

A. Maintaining Detailed, Consistent, and Updated Records Chapter 3 Good records save time by providing an account of past pest conditions and effectiveness of controls, allowing for the fine-tuning of an IPM program. With them, pest outbreaks can be anticipated and, in some cases, altogether prevented. Also, records enable the manager or maintenance staff to evaluate and fine-tune the IPM program to make it the most effective. B. Evaluate IPM Program Chapter 3
STEP 5 DEVELOPING/ADOPTING POLICY

A. Draft IPM Policy and Adopt Chapter 9 An effective IPM program will improve the health and appearance of the site, save time and money, and improve the environment. Additionally, the program can offer numerous ways in which to involve the public: educational site visits, management presentations, public signs and displays, etc. The next step is to incorporate IPM into park management policy publicizing the park districts dedication to providing a healthy place for people to enjoy.
CHAPTER 3 MONITORING, IPM PLAN, AND EVALUATION

WHAT IS MONITORING?
In an IPM program, monitoring includes the regular observation and recording of site conditions. These conditions include plant health, drainage and moisture, soil health, compaction, turf density, sun exposure, soil physiology (study of soil processes), and the presence of weeds, wildlife, insects, or disease. Monitoring is the base of an IPM program.
WHY MONITOR?
Maintaining good monitoring records will make your job easier. Monitoring will help you: 1) Determine the extent of pest populations 2) Design and time appropriate pest management methods 3) Maintain pests and pest damage at acceptable levels Monitoring is an essential component of an effective IPM program. By taking a broad look at site conditions, you can choose targeted methods of pest control that are the most effective.
For example, an area of the park continually has problems with broadleaf weeds. A soil test comes back from the lab with results indicating that the phosphorus levels are suitable for turf. This information, coupled with investigations that found that the soil is not overly compacted and the grass varieties are well suited to the shade and moisture conditions, would lead you to look to other possible causes. Further review of the test results reveals that calcium levels are slightly low. By incorporating more calcium into the next fertilizer application and evaluating the results, you will be able to determine whether or not this is an effective method of controlling the weeds.
Or, take another example where an area of the park has recently been renovated with some new playground equipment. The construction vehicles tore up some turf, so some areas needed to be replanted. As the new sod went in, it was watered thoroughly for weeks following the installation. However, you notice the sod hasnt taken hold in areas that had a lot of traffic, particularly where tire ruts had formed. At this point, you decide to aerate the area and relieve the compaction. The turf recovers and is able to grow where the ruts once were.
Having data on site conditions will also aid in the evaluation of past management methods and enable you to continually select the best methods, which will minimize inputs and maximize effectiveness.
DEVELOPING A MONITORING PROGRAM

1. Historical Information Monitoring begins with collecting site-specific historical data. Records of pesticide applications and landscape maintenance may be good sources for this information. Collect as much of the following as possible: Inventory of plants on the site Pest problems, control strategies, and the effectiveness of those strategies, time of year pest is present Weather and site conditions during pest problems: rainfall, temperatures, sparse turf, presence of weeds, etc. Description and extent of tree, plant and landscaping damage from disease, insects, or wildlife Soil types, nutrient deficiencies, pH levels, compaction Man made and natural features near problem areas Site use: playground, hiking trail, etc. Time of year pests have been present Previous construction or other damage Ideally, the data should be compiled into a database so that it can be readily compared with current information. If this isnt possible, arranging the files to the above categories should provide for easy reference and comparison. If no historical data is available, the IPM program will be based on the baseline assessment. Historical data will accumulate over time as it is collected on monitoring forms. 2. Developing or Using a Monitoring Form Appoint a staff member to be responsible for monitoring. If there isnt sufficient staff or staff time, consider hiring a consultant or intern. The most important element of monitoring is consistency, so it is important to have the same person develop or select the monitoring form that they will use during monitoring visits. Sample monitoring forms are included in Appendix A, or a new one can be created by drafting a log and sketch of the site. You can find information on how to do this below. The monitoring form will be used to record historical data, perform the baseline assessment, and record information gathered at follow-up monitoring visits. It consists of a site log (Figure 1) and map (Figure 2) that is used to record observations during these visits. Below are suggestions on how to organize the data when adapting or developing the monitoring form. (Alternatively, the log and map can be easily recorded directly into a computer using spreadsheets, ArcView GIS software, GIS positioning devices, or other similar technologies).
FIGURE 1 LOG PORTION OF MONITORING FORM
M LOG

O N I T O R I N G F O R M C O N T E N T S
(Organized in Columns) FIGURE 1 Inventory of trees and other plants on the site Pest problems, including identification of weeds, insects, disease, or wildlife damage, time of year pests are present Weather and site conditions: rainfall, temperatures, sparse turf, presence of weeds, etc. Description and extent of tree, plant and landscaping damage from disease, insects, or wildlife (Adapted or Sketched) FIGURE 2 Soil types, nutrient deficiencies, pH levels, compaction Man made and natural features near problem areas including areas that flood, have drainage or other moisture problems Site use: playground, hiking trail, etc. Time of year the pest is present
The monitoring form should be tailored to the site and preferences of the assessor, but should contain both a map and a log in some form. It may be possible to adapt an aerial photo of the site as the basis for your map, or to use existing topographical drawings. Be sure that property lines, roads, tennis courts, baseball fields, other recreational areas, etc. are included for ease in orientation. If these resources are not suitable, a map can be drafted during a walk through of the site keeping in mind that it should be made by the same person responsible for continued monitoring. Include easily recognizable landmarks and including the information listed in the log and map sections. The sketch will serve as your monitoring form.
MAP

FIGURE 2 MAP PORTION OF MONITORING FORM
IMPORTANT: Since the monitoring form (map and log) will be used to record changes in site conditions during each monitoring visit, copy it before filling it out during the baseline assessment. 3. Baseline Assessment The baseline assessment is the initial collection of current information about the site. Larger sites may take some time, so you may want to break the area into smaller segments while performing the baseline assessment, or initially focus on a pilot plot. The next page contains a list of suggested tools to bring along.
TOOLS FOR THE BASELINE AND FOLLOW-UP SITE ASSESSMENTS:

Magnifier to identify insects too small to identify with the naked eye Insect Sweep Nets to collect insects for identification Insect Traps and Lures to aid in collection Jars and Vials with 70% Ethyl or Isopropyl Alcohol To preserve insects for identification Identification Keys to assist in identifying the pest; Chaps 4 7 Small shovel and soil test kit to collect soil samples to be sent to a lab Collection Bags Clip Board
Before conducting your baseline assessment, a useful information source to review is Turfgrass Weed Management An IPM Approach, (Reference #21). The article outlines specifics in monitoring for weeds, but includes methods that can be applied to monitoring for all pests.
T H E
With the tools listed above, walk the site. Survey the site to locate pests and use nets, jars, traps, lures, and collection bags to trap or collect them if you have difficulty identifying them right away. Use the magnifying glass if theyre hard to see, and the guide to identify them. Record the type of pest, location, and estimated amount on the monitoring form. Walk through all areas of the park, mapping plants and site conditions such as amount of shade, soil characteristics and traffic as well as any weeds or diseases present. Nearby features such as storm water discharge pipes, rocky soils, and areas of low or high elevation or heavy use patterns are all conditions that can contribute to pest problems and should be recorded. Take soil samples in areas that have weed growth or poor turf/landscaping health. Identifying both pests and site conditions will help you address possible causes of pest problems and will provide you with information that you can use to improve the health of your turf and landscaping. Be sure to record as much of the above information as possible, since more information will lead to better pest management decisions.
R O U N D : C O N D U C T I N G A S S E S S M E N T
T H E
I T E
10
Additional information can be collected to increase the precision of the IPM program. For example, detailed weather data such as Growing Degree Days, combined with plant phenology can help you predict the occurrence of a pest problem or the vulnerable life stages of insect pests and can help prevent disease outbreaks. A list from the local extension office should be available to help you determine when these events may occur.
IPM PLAN
Assemble historical data and pest control information that was recorded during the baseline assessment. Contact an extension office for any nearby, current, or potential pest problems that could possibly affect your site to be prepared should a problem develop. 1. Setting Action Thresholds When to Take Action Establish a threshold based on the amount of pest-related damage that will be tolerated. This level may vary depending on the use of the site. For example, weeds in a park may be more frequently tolerated than in front of village hall. Powdery mildew on some plants may be tolerated as it is more unsightly than harmful. Determining how much of a particular pest, or the damage caused by that pest, can be tolerated is setting an action threshold. Many factors may play into setting these thresholds, and they may change over several seasons as you build up information about the patterns at each site. Certain levels of insects will not affect plants, and certain numbers of weeds are unnoticeable at a casual glance. For example, in setting a weed threshold, some things to consider may be aesthetics, the purpose of the site, user safety (athletic fields) nearby neighbors, etc. You may ask yourself questions such as can I stand to have a few dandelions on the practice field, or, does the milkweed near the footpath really deter from the landscape? On the other hand, it is important to take action while it is possible to take proactive steps. Public awareness is also important in setting thresholds. Is the public willing to tolerate a few weeds if they know that the IPM program will reduce the use of pesticides? If this is a new program, it will be important to develop an outreach program for the public explaining the change in the park and how it will benefit the community. Finding the appropriate balance and setting a corresponding threshold can only be done through a system of trial and error for some pests. The most important thing to determine about the site is the amount of damage that can be tolerated before it becomes harmful, noticeable, or both. General Rule for Insect Damage: 1) Pest damage on new plants should be limited to roughly 5% of the total plant 2) Older, hardier plants can withstand 10-15% damage from the pest. 2. Prioritize IPM Methods As you determine your thresholds, take an inventory of the resources you have available to reach them. Do you have the machinery you need for larger modifications of the site and soil? Are you able to identify a supplier that can provide you with beneficial insects, insecticidal soaps and other Integrated Pest Management for Park Districts Safer Pest Control Project
11
less harmful products (Appendix C)? Use the list from your baseline assessment to identify what IPM methods you can apply towards each pest, and which methods they may have in common. It is also important to consider whether the chemical controls are species specific or affect non-target species. Take time to prioritize IPM methods that will be used, and formulate an annual IPM plan including soil preparation, landscape maintenance, and monitoring. Determine the potential pest problems that may be encountered base on historical data and the current site assessment. Use the turf and landscaping knowledge of the park staff, and advice from your local cooperative extension office. Gather information from Chapters 4-7 and other sources on how to prevent outbreaks and manage these pests if they become a problem. 3. IPM Methods Short and Long Term Take action on your thresholds using the information provided in Chapters 4-7. To reach your desired threshold, your IPM Plan will include both short-term and long-term methods. Short-term methods are steps taken to immediately deal with pests, (for example mechanical removal for weeds) and long-term methods are steps to designed to prevent problems from occurring, or to minimize them before the become a larger problem. Chapters 4-7 list both short and long-term methods. When transitioning into an IPM Program, your management techniques will initially focus on shortterm treatment options. As you transition into an IPM program, the amount of short-term methods used will be gradually reduced. Prioritize the IPM methods that are feasible for you, and which may be long-term goals. Think of problems cumulatively often the conditions causing one problem will cause others as well. Making one lasting change to the soil may initially involve a large amount of work, but it will save a lot of effort in the long run by preventing future problems. 4. Establish a Monitoring Schedule Create a schedule for monitoring, taking into account the number and diversity of plants on the property, the size of the site, the life cycles of the pests you find, as well as anticipated pest problems in the area. Monitoring should occur at regular intervals. If this proves unfeasible, then knowing which problems will likely arise will enable you to anticipate when you will need to monitor such as correlating with the seasonal appearance of certain pests to other occurrences, (including the flowering of a particular shrub). Generally, its most useful to increase the frequency of monitoring in spring, in order to identify potential problems before they occur. Given the differences in pest species, plants, and site sizes, each will need a customized monitoring schedule to prevent problems. If this is not easily determined, start out monitoring on a quarterly basis. 5. Record Keeping Keep records of how each control measure worked by following up during the next monitoring visit. These records ensure that ineffective methods are not duplicated. Be sure to include basic weather information along with it, as natural cycles, including temperature and precipitation, can have blanket effects on pest populations and methods to control them.
12
EVALUATION
Evaluate the impact of the IPM program at the end of the year. Were you able to control targeted pests? How well did you achieve the threshold levels that you had set? Were there observable impacts on the pests? What was the reaction to the program from the public or from municipal leaders? Certain IPM methods may take awhile to have an effect, and should be evaluated accordingly for instance, improving drainage is often a lengthy process and, consequently, it may be difficult to evaluate the impacts right away. Take into account that the process of transitioning into IPM will occur over a few seasons. As such, expectations and outcomes should be evaluated accordingly. Below are questions that will help you evaluate the program on an annual basis, provide assistance in customizing the program, plan for monitoring, equipment, and product needs.
V A L U A T I O N
Are thresholds too difficult to attain, should they be readjusted? Has the health of the landscape improved? Have the long-term IPM methods been successful? Which treatments were cost-effective, which werent? Have you realized the savings from reduced pesticide use and needs?
U E S T I O N S
Beginning an IPM program can be an intimidating task. Start with a small site that can be easily managed, or divide a larger site to make the task easier. A test plot on a segment of a larger site can be used to evaluate an IPM program. The key is to select a parcel of land small enough so that beginning an IPM program is not too intimidating. Establishing an electronic database to track this information will help streamline data collection and make analysis easier.
13
CHAPTER 4 WEEDS
Below, you will find descriptions of common weed species in Illinois, conditions that can potentially contribute to their growth, and IPM methods that can be used for their control. Explanations of the methods can be found at the end of this chapter; pages 18 to 22, and in the listed sections of Chapter 8.
(Source: Illinois Pesticide Applicator Training Manual Fruit and Vegetable Crops Pest Control)
E E D
D E N T I F I C A T I O N
U I D E
Buckhorn plantain (Plantago lanceolata) Narrow, lance like leaves with prominent parallel veins. Leaves are 2 to 10 long and 1/3 to 1 wide with three predominate parallel veins on the blade. Flowers are present from June to September and are produced at the end of long, unbranched stems. Seed heads are bullet-shaped. Common on drier soils and neutral to basic soils. Tolerates close mowing. Short Term Control: See mechanical removal, weed trimmer, flaming, and heat treatment. Long-Term Control: See Chapter 8: moisture management.
Broadleaf and Blackseed Plantain (Plantago major and P. rugelii) Perennial weeds that have broad oval leaves with parallel veination. Leaves are 1 to 7 long and 2/3 to 4 wide. From June through September leafless, unbranched stems are produce with small inconspicuous flowers. Both species are common in turf or sod areas and tolerate close mowing and damp, heavily compacted soils. Short Term Control: See mechanical removal, weed trimmer, flaming, and heat treatment. Long-Term Control: See Chapter 8: compaction, moisture management.
14
Large crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis) A mat forming, summer annual with purple stems. Can reach 3 feet in height. Leaf blades are about 12 times longer than wide, and are flat, sharply pointed, and normally dull green (sometimes purple tinged). Seedheads appear as several finger-like spikes at the end of each stalk. The spreading, flat growth of crabgrass tends to crowd out desirable grasses. Crabgrass is killed by the first frost, leaving unsightly dead patches. Can be found in warm, moist, and fertile lawns where turf is thin or mowed short. After becoming established it will tolerate hot, dry, and compacted soils. Short Term Control: See mechanical removal, weed trimmer, flaming, and heat treatment. Long-Term Control: See targeted fertilizing and Chapter 8: moisture management, fertilizing, soil heatlh. Garlic Mustard (Alliaria petiolata) A non-native, invasive, biennial herb that invades shaded areas. Can out compete and displace native grasses and wildflowers. Seeds germinate in early spring. White flowers with four petals occur the following year during May to July. Seeds are in slender capsules, 1 to 2 long and are dispersed in August but remain dormant until the second following spring. Stems reach 1 to 3 1/2 high and emit a strong odor when crushed. Leaves are alternate, triangular, with toothed edges. Control immediately to prevent dense growth; in spring or fall before seeds are added to the soil bank [22] Short Term Control: See mechanical control, flaming, and heat treatment. Long Term Control: Contact the Illinois Department of Natural Resources (http://dnr.state.il.us/).
Ground Ivy (Glechoma hederacea) (Creeping Charlie) A perennial with creeping, square stems that root at the nodes and form dense prostrate patches. Foliage emits a mint-like odor when injured. Bright-green leaves are opposite on the stem, round, with scalloped edges. Flowers are produced from early April through June. Bluish-purple flowers are borne on short ascending stems. This plant grows well in shady areas where soils are poorly drained. Short Term: See mechanical removal, weed trimmer, flaming, and heat treatment. Long-Term: See sun exposure and Chapter 8: moisture management.
15
White Clover (Trifolium repens) A mat-forming perennial with creeping branched stems. Stems are smooth or only slightly hairy. The plant has three short-stalked leaflets that are egg shaped and rounded at the apex. Round flower heads are produced through the summer and are white or pinkish in color. Thrives in moist, low-fertility soils. Beneficial, as it fixes nitrogen in the soil. Short Term: See mechanical removal, weed trimmer, flaming, and heat treatment Long-Term: See targeted fertilizing and Chapter 8: moisture management, fertilizing.
Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) A perennial weed reproducing from seed and broken segments of the taproot. Can be 8 to 12 high and 6 to 15 in diameter. Leaves are 3 to 10 long and 1 to 2 wide, variously lobed. Strong taproot is thick and fleshy, branched, and deep. Flower heads are 1 to 2 in diameter, bright yellow, and upon maturing; bear seed with fluffy white down attached. Seeds detach readily and are wind disseminated. Short Term: See mechanical removal, weed trimmer, flaming, and heat treatment. Long-Term: See Chapter 8.
Prostrate Knotweed (Polygonum aviculare) A summer annual that germinates in early spring. Young plants have long, slender, dark green leaves and are often mistaken for grass. Mature plants have small, dull-green leaves and inconspicuous white flowers. The plant forms a tough, prostrate wiry mat. Leaves are alternate, elliptic to oblong, approximately 1 inch long by 1/4 inch wide, pointed at the apex. Grows well on compacted soils. Short Term: See mechanical removal, weed trimmer, flaming, and heat treatment. Long-Term: See Chapter 8: compaction.
16
Prostrate and Spotted Spurge (Euphorbia supina and E. maculata). Mat-forming summer annuals that usually appear midseason. The small leaves are opposite, egg-shaped, up to 1 long, and 1/3 wide. Prostrate spurge has pale green leaves while spotted spurge has a maroon spot on each leaf. Flowers are present July through September in the axils of the upper leaves. Survives on dry or sandy, low nutrient soil and on compacted or disturbed sites. Short Term: See mechanical removal, weed trimmer, flaming, and heat treatment. Long-Term: See targeted fertilizing and Chapter 8: compaction, fertilizing.
Purple Loosestrife (Lythrum slicaria) an invasive perennial, with a base that may appear woody. Stems have four sides, are stiff, and reach 3 to 10 tall. Leaves are in whorls of three or opposite. Flowers bloom in mid to late summer. Will crowd out most native aquatic vegetation. Spreads by root and stem cuttings and produces many seeds. Listed as an exotic weed in Illinois. Short Term: See mechanical removal, weed trimmer, flaming, and heat treatment. Long-Term: Contact the Illinois Department of Natural Resources (http://dnr.state.il.us/)
Common Milkweed (Asclepias syriaca). A perennial with stout, unbranched, and erect stems, becoming woody and reaching 3 to 4 feet. The plant exudes a milky sap when injured. Reproduces from seed or from long, spreading roots. Leaves are large and oblong, 4 to 8 long. Flowers are borne from late June to early August. Globe-like flower clusters develop at the end of the stem and upper leaf axils. Individual flowers are purplish pink to white and fragrant. Seedpods are large, 2 to 5 long, spiny, and pointed. Grows better in welldrained soil and does not tolerate frequent mowing or cultivation. Monarch butterfly habitat. Not a persistent weed. Short Term: See mechanical removal, weed trimmer, flaming, and heat treatment. Long-Term: See Chapter 8.
17
Mouseear Chickweed (Stellaria media) A perennial that reproduces by seeds and occasionally spreads by creeping stems. Has shallow, fibrous roots. Mat forming, growing up to 20 tall and have weak and hairy stems. Leaves are opposite, dark green, very hairy, less than 1 long, and up to wide. Small white flowers have 5 white petals that are notched at the tips. Grows in cool, moist soils and in shade. Short Term: See mechanical removal, weed trimmer, flaming, and heat treatment. Long Term: See sun exposure, Chapter 8: moisture management.
Poison Ivy (Toxicodendron radicans) A woody perennial. Plant is either an upright shrubby plant 2 to 3 feet high, or more commonly a vine that climbs trees and fences. Plants are distinguished by the 3 shiny leafs on each branch. Leaflet edges are smooth to roughly toothed, and can be variable in shape. Flowers, and its fruit are small (1/8 inch in dia.), round, and waxy white in color. Leaves develop attractive autumn coloration of reds and orange. May have red stems. Plant contains poisonous oils that can produce a serious rash on contact or through the smoke of burning plants. Control is important because of the hazard to persons that may come into contact with it. Short Term: See mechanical removal, weed trimmer, flaming, and heat treatment. Long-Term: See sun exposure. Note: Should you chose mechanical removal, take extreme caution and wear gloves, pants, and a long-sleeved shirt. Do not come into contact with clothes that may have oil from the plant on them, and make sure they are immediately washed with detergent in warm water.
Quackgrass (Elytrigia repens) A common perennial in Northern Illinois. A patch forming, coarse-textured grass that spreads by strong underground stems (rhizomes). The blades are dull-green in color, up to 12 long, flat, and hairy to smooth on the upper surface and smooth underneath. The plants produce a long, spiked seed head in June and July. Tolerates frequent mowing. Short Term: See mechanical removal, weed trimmer, flaming, and heat treatment. Long-Term: See Chapter 8.
18
SHORT-TERM IPM METHODS

Mechanical Removal The best short-term method in an IPM program is mechanical removal. Put simply, you pull the weed from the ground by hand or by using a garden tool. Figure 3 has some garden tools that can be used, accompanied by an illustration and suggested use for the tool. Most of these tools can be found at hardware stores or garden centers. When removing the weed, its important to remove the entire plant, including the taproot, so that the weed cannot regrow. Its also best to remove the weed before it goes to seed, to reduce the possibility of further weed growth. Although mechanical removal can be labor intensive, it is effective and often a good choice for sites of moderate size.
FIGURE 3 COMMON GARDEN TOOLS

(Source: Safe & Easy Lawn Care; The Complete Guide to Organic, Low-Maintenance Lawns)
19
Weed Trimmer Many weeds will not regrow if they are cut down a handful of times. Using a weed trimmer sometimes called a hedge or grass trimmer will help you perform this task quickly. A weed trimmer is usually around 4 long with two handles, one on the end of the trimmer that houses a trigger to engage the motor and another mid way down for controlling the trimmer while in use. On the other end is a circulating motor with a plastic whip. When the motors engaged, the whip circulates around the motor, cutting any weeds or grass that the whip comes into contact with. Available at any local hardware store, garden center, or can be purchased from: www.mcmaster.com.
(Source: www.mcmaster.com)
Flaming Another IPM treatment technique is flaming. This method consists of using a handheld torch to burn the plant for a couple of seconds. The flame damages the plants cells, causing it to wilt and die. Additionally, any seeds that come into contact with the flame are rendered infertile, preventing the plant seeds from germinating. This method is a good substitute for a pesticide spray gun as you will just as easily be able to spot treat weeds along fence lines, around trees, sidewalks and paths, parking lots, and other hard to access areas. Flaming may not be appropriate for athletic fields, however, as it will leave burn patches in the turf. Possible benefits of flaming include lower costs by substituting butane gas for seasonal pesticide purchases. Flamers are generally more effective on annual weeds. Below is a picture and description of a flaming device: To minimize the risk of fire, flaming must be done with caution and should not be used in areas that are particularly dry or that have debris or dry vegetation that may catch fire. Also, the applicator should take precautions to avoid burns and prevent their clothing from catching fire while applying [8]. It is important to heed all the manufactures warnings before using. Description: 3 torch with ignition switch is connected to a butane tank with a neoprene hose. Tank is fixed to a lightweight dolly. 3 flame from end of torch used to flame weed. Check with you local hardware store for availability or try www.gemplers.com, www.groworganic.com, or www.greenfire.net.
(Source: Gemplers 1999-2000 IPM Almanac; The Essential Resource for Integrated Pest Management)
20
Heat Treatment Heat treatments, whether flaming or hot water/steam, can be substituted for bare-ground treatments such as applying broad-spectrum plant killers Roundup or other Glyphosatecontaining generic herbicides. Heat-treating makes use of hot water and foam mixtures that are directly applied to the weed. These mixtures are heated to extremely high temperatures, and when applied to the weed, cause it to wilt and die. Applicator designs vary, but generally consist of a 3 to 4 wand connected by hose to a tank containing the heated mixture. These applicators, like flamers, are handy for spot treatments of fence lines, around trees, sidewalks and paths, parking lots, and other hard to access areas. After treatment, the non-toxic foam/mixture dissipates, posing minimal environmental impact. See Waipuna in Appendix C for more details. Least-Toxic Chemical Controls Another option for weed control is the use of certain less-hazardous herbicides. These include herbicidal soaps and essential oils. Herbicidal soaps are made of fatty acids that are naturally found in the soil, have few known adverse environmental effects, and can be applied like traditional herbicides which is especially useful for spot-treatment applications. Herbicidal soaps can be used to control mosses, algae, lichens, broadleaf weeds, and annual grassy weeds. They kill weeds and quickly decompose in the soil. One example would be ammoniated soap Concern Fast-Acting Weed Killer available at www.victorpest.com. Additional herbicidal soaps are available at www.groworganic.com or www.biconet.com. Vinegar has also been shown to be an effective spot treatment. However, the USDA warns that vinegar concentrations over 5% can burn and should be handled with protective equipment. Using vinegar in a sprayer can also corrode seals and valves. Research thoroughly before considering its use. Check Appendix C for additional resources.
IPM LONG-TERM METHODS

The goal of using long-term IPM methods is to decrease the likelihood of or prevent weed growth on the site before it occurs. Prevention first builds on maintaining a healthy, dense turf and effectively covering areas that do not have turf. Below you will find long term IPM methods specific to weeds. Review Chapter 8 for a more thorough explanation of long-term methods as they apply to the entire landscape. Most long-term weed management steps should be taken before spring, while outside temperatures are tolerable, but before initial weed growth actually occurs. When including weed control in your IPM Plan, you may incorporate all or a few of the steps below keeping in mind available time and resources.
21
A logical sequence for incorporating long-term methods: Monitoring and Mapping Site Modifications landscaping with mulches, barriers, groundcovers, adjusting sun exposure Targeted Watering and Fertilizing systems installed before spring, used throughout growing season Monitoring and Mapping Once weeds are identified, you will be able to build information about the plants life cycle into your IPM plan. For instance, knowing that dandelions go to seed in late summer and spring can help you plan to mow them down before the seed fluff matures and dissipates. Knowing that Creeping Charlie is a perennial may convince you to focus on it rather than other annual weed species that may die off at the end of summer. All these things need to be considered when formulating your IPM plan. See Chapter 3 for more information on monitoring and mapping. Landscaping with Mulches, Barriers, and Groundcovers The goal is to eliminate areas where weeds can grow. This includes exposed soil in-between ornamental plants or trees, areas of high foot traffic, areas that are shaded by trees, etc. Often, turfgrass cannot be grown or isnt desired in these areas. Landscaping options for these areas include: 1) Fabric or plastic barriers to cover soil before landscaping, laid on bare ground before covering with landscaping rocks or mulch 2) Apply mulch directly on the ground around landscaping. Mulch can also be applied to walking paths, play areas, service areas and other locations where plants are not appropriate. Mulches used around ornamentals have the additional benefit of reducing evaporation from the soil, adding organic material to the soil, and helping protect plants against extreme temperatures. These products can be found at the local hardware store, garden center, or similar stores using the website www.homeharvest.com. See Appendix C for other potential suppliers. Sun Exposure Certain weed species favor shady conditions where the ground is moist and turf density is low. In these areas, tree limbs, shrubbery, or other ornamentals should be trimmed to allow for sunlight to penetrate onto the turf, encouraging turf growth and density. Targeted Fertilization The goal of targeted fertilization is to ensure that ornamentals are fertilized and weeds are not. Fertilizing impacts the nature and extent of weed growth. For example, to discourage the growth of white clover, avoid overfertilizing with phosphorus. Fertilizer can be applied through drip irrigation systems, with equipment found at your local hardware store or garden center. Another method is to apply a slow-release fertilizer to the planting-hole before planting ornamentals. Keep in mind that fertilizers should be applied judiciously to control weeds, reduce costs, and limit potential environmental impacts such as runoff.
22
CHAPTER 5 PLANT DISEASE

Both the turf and ornamental plants in a park can be susceptible to disease. Below, you will find descriptions of diseases that affect turf, turf and ornamentals, and solely ornamentals. The recurrence of a disease may indicate that long-term IPM methods are needed (See Chapter 8). Also, some diseases may be difficult to diagnose from the descriptions, and may require the help of an expert, such as a state extension specialist.
X P L A N A T I O N
O F
E R M S
Sunscald occurs when a trees trunk is burned from exposure to the sun Solarization process of placing thin sheets of clear plastic over turf for several weeks. Sunlight penetrates the tarp, heats the soil to temperatures in the range of 100oF to 122oF, and kills the pathogen that lies in the top 2 to 4 of the turf. Tree wrap burlap, cloth or other material thats wrapped around a tree trunk or other woody ornamental to protect it from physical damage; i.e. sunscald. Herbicidal soaps usually a liquid concentrate, consisting of sodium or potassium salts combined with fish or vegetable oil to control weeds. Low toxicity [8]. Neem Oil derived from the tropical neem tree; exhibits very low toxicity to mammals. Primarily used as an insecticide. Should not be used near waterbodies. Fungicidal soaps usually a liquid concentrate, consisting of sodium or potassium salts combined with fish or vegetable oil to control fungus. Low toxicity [8]. Garlic Oil derived from garlic bulbs, contains the volatile oil alliin. Recent studies have shown that it exhibits antibacterial, antifungal, amebicidal, and insecticidal traits. Word of caution: has a broadspectrum effect, killing both pests and beneficial insects [8]. Tarp Dragging method of reducing the amount of moisture thats collected on turf, achieved by dragging a tarp across the surface of the grass leaves to absorb the excess moisture. Thatch a mat-like layer made up of dead roots, stolons, rhizomes, and, to a lesser degree, grass clippings; accumulates on the soil where turfgrass is planted and prevents water from reaching grass roots, harbors insects and diseases, and blocks light penetration.
T BROWN PATCH
U R F
R A S S
I S E A S E S
Dark or water-soaked patches first appearing grayish black, then turning brown as grass dries; patches are a few inches to 3 in diameter. Caused by a fungus that lives in the soil. All grasses are susceptible to attack. Brown Patch will develop when weather is warm, hot, and humid, with temperatures above 85oF during the day and 60oF at night, in combination with leaf surfaces that remain wet for 6-8 hours. Unbalanced soil fertility, particularly high nitrogen levels, and excessively low mowing height exacerbate the disease. Effects St. Augustine, bent grasses, and Kentucky Bluegrass.
23
With proper management, lawn turf will generally tolerate or recover from the disease without significant damage. Remove thatch (Chapter 8) as it harbors the disease. At fist sign of the disease, spread hydrated lime (be sure to read the directions first) at rate of 10 lb per 1,000 sq. ft. of grass to keep grass dry and reduce damage from Brown Spot. Apply only when grass is dry to prevent injury to grass. Repeat process in roughly 3-week intervals until disease is completely gone. You can also dry grass by dragging a tarp across the grass surface. Collect grass clippings when mowing the turf to prevent thatch build up. Solarization is another option. Although solarization will kill most lawn pathogens, valuable beneficial organisms will survive. For instance, microorganisms such as Trichoderma will survive and be most effective at suppressing Brown Spot once the soil has been solarized. Trichoderma is also found in aged compost or pulverized tree bark. The compost can also be added to solarized soil to compete with and destroy Brown Spot. Dig holes in the damaged turf and add a to layer of composted tree bark or compost. For control, least toxic products include neem oil, which suppresses pathogens by preventing them from reproducing, and garlic oil, used as a soil drench at a concentration of 150 to 200 ppm [8] See Appendix C for a list of possible suppliers.
DOLLAR SPOT
Appears as light tan patches of dead leaf tissue, about the size of a silver dollar on closely mown turf. On taller cut turf the patches may appear as large as 3-4 in diameter, although usually only the upper half of the leaf is affected. Lesions on individual leaves are tan, hourglass-shaped, and straddle the leaf blade. Overwinters in thatch. Thrives in nutritionally deficient grasses, and during weather with warm days and cool nights. Affects creeping bentgrass, Kentucky bluegrass, fine-leaved fescue, ryegrass, zoysia, and bermudagrass. Supina bluegrass is more susceptible to the disease than Kentucky bluegrass or perennial ryegrass [16]. Proper nitrogen fertilization will stimulate turf growth and the affected tissue can be mown. Remove thatch. Try solarization, neem and garlic oil, or fungicidal soap. Using the soap as a drench spot treatment on discrete areas of damaged lawn and repeating applications every 4 5 days may provide sufficient control.
FAIRY RINGS
Fairy rings are patches, arcs, and sometimes lines of dark green, fast growing turf or occasionally dead turf. Fairy rings may or may not be accompanied by mushrooms. These are caused by any one of a number of Basidiomylete fungi (mushrooms). The fungi are not infecting the turf but instead are living on dead organic material in the soil or thatch, including buried wood, tree stumps, peat, or even thatch. The dark green color results from the release of nitrogen produced by the decaying action of the fungi on dead organic matter in the soil. All grass species and varieties are equally at risk. Does not usually require treatment. If the cause is a buried tree stump or other solid wood debris, remove the wood and replace with soil. If it is peat, or another non-discrete source of organic matter, there is not much that can be done. The dark green color can be masked by applying a Integrated Pest Management for Park Districts Safer Pest Control Project
24
nitrogen source to the local area or, if necessary, the entire turf [16]. See Chapter 8 on how to fertilize turf properly.
FUSARIUM BLIGHT
This disease appears as 2 to 6 diameter patches that turn red-brown, then tan and yellow. Grass roots and crowns are rotted. This is a warm-weather disease that can occur from late June through early September particularly in July and August. The disease usually appears after a week or two of dry weather following a heavy rain, and is associated with shallow rooted grass, which is highly vulnerable to drought stress. Symptoms usually appear first in areas of lawn under stress, for example, along sidewalks and in poorly drained areas. Fusarium Blight attacks Kentucky bluegrass when the turf is over fertilized. High nitrogen and low calcium levels in the soil favor the disease. Avoid fertilizing in late spring or early summer, and adjust fertilizer to address nutrient deficiencies (Chapter 8). Maintain lawn health, remove clippings that may be diseased, remove thatch, and aerate the turf. Raise the mowing height in summer. Rake out dead grass and replace with Fusarium resistant cultivars (check with your local extension office for a list) [3].
(DRECHSLERA) MELTING OUT OR LEAF SPOT

Early symptoms of melting out appear as small dark purple or black leaf spots occurring primarily during cool weather in spring and fall. Centers of the spots may become light tan as the spots enlarge. Cool, moist weather promotes infection of grass roots and crowns. Similar symptoms can occur in summer when temperatures exceed 85oF. Can be found on nearly all turf types throughout the year. Generally the disease is so minimal it goes unnoticed. Occasionally it may become severe and turf loss may result. Kentucky bluegrass is primarily susceptible. Keep the turf on a well-balanced fertilization and irrigation program. Do not keep the turf overly moist nor should the turf be allowed to become drought stressed. Increase the mowing height to provide more leaf tissue, which will ultimately help the turf recover. Plant disease-resistant grasses (check with your local extension office for a list). Spring fertilization protects grass during spring infection season. Reduce thatch to remove overwintering areas for the disease. Avoid working around infested grass when wet, and remove and destroy infected grass clippings [3,8,12].
NECROTIC RING SPOT
This disease leaves dead spots that appear suddenly. It is caused by a fungus that rots the roots and crowns of susceptible grasses, resulting in dead circular patches of turf that often contain living turf or weeds in the center (called a frog-eye pattern). This is a warm-weather disease that can occur from late June through early September. Usually appears after a week or two of dry weather following a heavy rain, and is associated with shallow rooted grass, which is highly vulnerable to drought stress. Symptoms usually appear first along sidewalks and in poorly drained areas. The disease primarily attacks Kentucky bluegrass when it is over-fertilized in the summer. Provide balanced nutrition to the affected area. If turf has died, overseed (Chapter 8) with perennial ryegrass or tolerant cultivars of Kentucky bluegrass [8,16].
25
PYTHIUM BLIGHT, GREASE SPOT, COTTONY BLIGHT

This disease causes circular spots of dark green grass growing together to form large, irregular clusters. Overwinters in thatch. Active in warm, wet weather when day temperatures exceed 85oF, nighttime temperatures are above 68oF, and relative humidity is close to 100%. All common turf grasses are susceptible. Grasses in poorly drained, high traffic areas are particularly vulnerable. Disease thrives in soils with calcium deficiency or excessive alkalinity. Avoid applications of highly soluble nitrogen fertilizers just prior to or during warm weather. Ensure proper drainage. Fill in any low spots in the lawn where water collects. Irrigate infrequently and deeply during warm weather. Water early in the day. Aerate, reduce thatch, and, if necessary apply neem oil, or a fungicidal soap [8].
RED THREAD (PINK PATCH)

Fungus that appears as red threads extending from the grass blades. Grass is often affected in light tan to pinkish patches, usually 2-12 in diameter. Will develop in cool to warm weather, in humid areas, particularly around rivers, lakes, and ponds. Threads are elongated, antler-like masses of red fungal tissue extruding from the tips of infected turf plants. Fungus later dries, becoming brittle and turning dark red. Red thread occurs primarily on under-fertilized fine fescues during cool, wet weather, primarily in the spring. Maintain balanced fertility, paying particular attention to nitrogen levels. When nitrogen is low, apply organic fertilizers with nitrogen in fast-releasing form. Mow often to remove infected leaves, particularly when grass is slow growing and the weather is cool to warm and humid [16].
RUST
Rust is easily identified by orange spore-bearing pustules on the surface of leaves. Infected turf areas have a yellow to orange tinge and the orange spores can coat clothing as pedestrians walk through affected areas. As the disease ages the orange pustules turn brown. May appear at any time of the growing season, but is most common on Kentucky bluegrass during autumn. Rust diseases rarely kill turf but are unsightly and can predispose the turf to environmental stresses. Rust diseases occur most frequently on slow-growing turf. Proper nitrogen fertilization, mowing, and irrigation will help manage most infections until the disease disappears due to changes in the weather. Avoid excessive applications of highly soluble nitrate fertilizers because this generates frequent flushes of lush, weak growth that are very susceptible to Rust. Apply moderate amounts of compost, stabilized manure or slow-release ammonium based fertilizers in affected areas during the late fall and early spring. Substitute Kentucky blue grass with disease-resistant cultivars. Provide good air circulation by pruning nearby trees and shrubs. Do not work on turf while leaves are still wet. Remove thatch. Remove and destroy infected leaves to slow spread of disease. Spray or dust susceptible plants with sulfur as needed, to reduce moisture build up on plants [8,12,16].
26
SLIME MOLD
Slime Mold is rarely a serious problem. Mold spores suddenly appear on turf during warm weather or following heavy rains, coating the grass with what looks like cigarette ash on the surface of the grass blades. Does not harm grass, however, it can cover and disfigure it. Infected areas may vary from a few inches to a few feet across. Typically appears in the fall, or under humid conditions. Spores can be easily removed from grass by rinsing with water during dry weather, or mowing and raking at any time [3].
SOOTY MOLD
This fungus appears as a dark gray to sooty black layer covering the surface of grass leaves, and can be readily wiped off to show healthy green leaf surface underneath. Sometimes forms papery black layer that can be peeled away from the leaf. Results in poor growth or collapse of the plant. Rinse sticky leaves with water to reduce honeydew before molds can grow. Control sucking-insects such as aphids and whiteflies to reduce honeydew (Chapter 7). Rinse off infected leaves with stream of water [12].
STRIPE SMUT
Fungus that appears on grasses as yellow or brown spots with black or dark longitudinal stripes on the blades. Infected blades eventually dry out and die. Stripes will eventually burst, releasing powdery spores. Usually occurs during the cool weather of spring and fall. Turns grass plants pale green, yellow, or brown. Particularly destructive to Kentucky bluegrass. Mow frequently and remove clippings. Maintain a healthy lawn. Replace or overseed with resistant Kentucky bluegrass varieties [3].
SUMMER PATCH
Fungus forming 2 circular spots of dead and dying grass that often enlarge to 24 in diameter. Spots start out as dark blue to purple wilted turf and turn straw-colored to light tan when dead. Grass in the center of each spot may remain healthy and become surrounded by a band of dead turf (called Frog Eye). Leaf blades and crown may be affected. Summer patch is a warm-weather disease that occurs from late June through early September. Fungus overwinters in infected plants, in thatch, or in soil. Usually appears after a week or two of dry weather following a heavy rain and is associated with shallow rooted grass, which is highly vulnerable to drought stress. Symptoms usually appear first along sidewalks and in poorly drained areas. Primarily attacks and Kentucky bluegrass when its over-fertilized during the summer. Fertilize with slow-release organic products. Ensure proper drainage. Water infrequently and deeply [8].
27
TYPHULA BLIGHT, GREY SNOW MOLD

Fungus that causes patches of circular, gray to brown spots 3 to 2 in diameter which appear as snow melts. Occurs when the ground is unfrozen, soil moisture is plentiful, and the temperature is between 32oF and 40oF. Initially develops in the absence of light brought about by snow cover. Fuzzy, gray-white fungi are visible, particularly on the edges of spots right after the snow melts. The fungus oversummers on infected leaves. Avoid mulching with straw. Plant or overseed with disease resistant grasses, lightly fertilize in early fall. Reduce thatch by aerating and then top dress with compost. Use solarization to kill the fungus. Use snow barriers, and apply neem oil, garlic oil, or fungicidal soap for control [8].
U R F
A N D
R N A M E N T A L
I S E A S E
POWDERY MILDEW
Powdery Mildew is a fungus mostly affecting turf, though other ornamental plants may be affected. Spreads rapidly to become patches of white that will eventually cover the entire surface of leaves, shoots, flowers, and, when applicable, fruit. Thrives in warm, dry climates because the spores do not require a film of water on the leaf to germinate. More commonly found on turf surfaces, appearing as small patches of white or gray on grass blades, and can easily be scraped off. Occurs throughout the growing season but is most typically seen on Kentucky bluegrass in moderate to severely shaded conditions. It is not present on most athletic fields but is often found near bleachers and buildings. Slow spread of the disease by removing and destroying infected leaves. Wash leaves of infected plants with water every 1-2 weeks to remove spores; be sure to wash undersides as well. May be successful applying a spray of .5% solution of Baking Soda (1 teaspoon to 1 quart water). Avoid excessive applications of highly soluble nitrate fertilizer because it generates frequent flushes of lush, weak growth that is very susceptible to attack (also susceptible to black spot and rust). Use moderate applications of compost, stabilized manure or slow-release ammonium based fertilizers in late fall and early spring. Substitute Kentucky blue grass with disease-resistant cultivars of grass. Increase air circulation by pruning nearby trees and shrubs. Remove thatch to reduce overwintering sites for the fungus. Apply lime to dry soil or drag a tarp to control moisture [8,12].
ROOT ROT
These soil-borne fungi cause leaves to be smaller than usual and cause plants or turf to wilt and turn yellow or brown. Plants begin to decline gradually or quickly for no apparent reason. Brown or blackened damaged areas are visible on crowns or roots. Presence on trees is denoted by white mats of fungi and dark brown fungal strands found on the roots or growing between the bark and wood. Transplant plants when warm, and enrich soil with compost. Refrain from cultivating close to roots, which causes injuries and allows for disease. Use mulches to suppress weeds, plant in well-drained soils, and avoid over-watering. Ensure water does not pool around plant base, and plant with soil line slightly higher than surrounding soil level and slope soil away from trunk. Remove and destroy badly infected plants. If feasible, save moderately affected plants by pruning away diseased roots Integrated Pest Management for Park Districts Safer Pest Control Project
28
and replanting in well-drained soil. Disinfect tools used on or around infected plants. Perform soil solarization before planting may be effective in controlling root rot [12].
O CANKER
R N A M E N T A L
I S E A S E
Fungal disease affecting more than 70 species of woody plants particularly apple, plum, spruce, maple, poplar, and willow. Cankers on large branches and trunks first appear as a circular area of dying bark. Area becomes brownish and sunken, often with raised ring of callus tissue around it. Dead tissue may exude sap that flows down the trunk. Later, bark dries and separates from underlying wood and the healthy bark. Cankers grow each year becoming large, rough swellings. Infected branches often break from the weight of fruit or a windstorm. Twigs and branches die once cankers completely girdle them. During dry weather, remove cankerous tissue and prune away and burn infected branches. Do not perform any unnecessary pruning. Seal wounds left from pruning with pruning sealer. Maintain tree health by protecting it from sunscald and do not fertilize tree late in season. Avoid mechanical damage to trees [12].
NEEDLECAST
This fungus affects evergreens, especially arborvitae, pine, and western red cedar. Appears as mottled orange or brown spots, with light specks and dark bands on developing needles. Needles turn olive green, usually dying from tip first. Severely affected needles drop by midsummer, and branch tips may die back. Usually found on the lower two thirds of young trees. Plant growth may be slowed. Severely infected young trees may die. Plant tree species that are hardy, in areas with good air circulation, and maintain health. Prune damaged needle tips and rake up and destroy dropped needles. Where infections are severe, spray at 2-week intervals with Bordeaux mix or copper when new shoots are one-quarter grown [12].
OAK WILT
Oak Wilt fungus affects all oaks, however, red and black are most susceptible. Leaves in the upper portions of tree wilt and turn yellow or brown, leaves die from the tip and edges inward. Symptoms are most pronounced in late spring and early summer. Spreads rapidly in red and black oaks, and may kill tree(s) within weeks. White oaks can survive 1-2 years. Bark of killed trees is raised and cracked by mats of fungus growing between bark and wood. Prune trees only when dormant to prevent fungi from getting into the wood. Seal wounds left from pruning with pruning sealer. Remove and destroy fungus in infected trees immediately, before fungus produces spores. To save nearby trees, carefully dig trench 3-4 feet deep between infected and healthy trees to sever root contacts; as the disease can spread underground. Immediately backfill trench so roots do not dry out [12].
29
SLIME FLUX
Woody plants are susceptible to this bacterial disease, especially elm, maple, and poplar trees. Fermenting, dark-colored slimy sap, which may have foul smell, oozes from wounds or cracks in the bark of a branch, trunk, or fork of a limb. Wood around the wound becomes dark brown and water-soaked. Flowing sap dries to a light gray or white stain on the bark. Appears in trees more than 5 years old after heartwood has formed. Often associated with wet soils and mechanical or frost injury to bark or roots. Leaves on young trees may wilt, turn yellow, and drop prematurely. Branches on older trees die back slowly. General decline in the health of the tree; symptoms are usually seen in spring and summer or after wet weather. Avoid injuring bark. Use white trunk paint or a tree wrap (be sure to remove as tree grows too big) on young trees to prevent sunscald and injury. Maintain plant health. Clean out and trim edges of bark wounds with a sharp knife immediately and seal with pruning sealer to promote healing. Prune away affected limbs and seal. Replace severely infected trees [12].
VERTICILLIUM WILT
A fungus that causes plants to gradually wilt, turn yellow, and drop leaves although stems will remain upright. Branches may die one by one, or the whole plant may collapse suddenly. Usually appears on lower branches first, as yellow patches on older leaves. If you cut infected stems open, youll often see a light brown or yellow discoloration extending upward from the base of the stem. First year damage is mild, but worsens in succeeding years as disease builds up. Affects many woody and herbaceous plants. Remove and destroy infected plants. Clean tools afterward with 10% bleach solution. Solarize soil around the location of the infected plant(s). Apply mulch to the soil to keep it cool during summer months. Rotate plants [12].
30
CHAPTER 6 NUISANCE WILDLIFE

Wildlife is generally an asset of park districts, as many people enjoy seeing and experiencing the many different animals they may encounter during a park visit. However, in certain circumstances, some animals may prove to be a nuisance to park management or even park goers themselves. Below is a list of wildlife that can possibly become a nuisance, and some methods to control them.
BATS
Bats are small, black, flying mammals with a thin membrane of skin that stretches between the front and back legs. They are not active in bright daylight, and hide in dark areas such as building awnings, caves, and hollow trees. Bats can enter areas through holes as small as 3/8. In buildings, look for entry and exit points: loose flashing, shingles, or damaged eaves. Pay attention to droppings under openings, smudges around holes, and any odors. Look inside attics and unused rooms during daylight for the bat roost. Check inside chimneys and vents, bang walls to listen for screeching, look for droppings (will contain insect body parts: wings, etc), and smell droppings and urine are very odorous. Bats are beneficial, as they eat insects; including mosquitoes. Screen or seal openings that are 3/8 or larger; making sure no bats are present beforehand. Avoid searching in June/July as theyre raising young. Bats are heavily protected by most state governments, so check local regulations before attempting control.
Canada, or Canadian, geese have black necks and heads with a prominent white cheek patch. Bill, legs, and feet are also black. Feathers are grayish to dark brown, with white feathers on the belly. Geese prefer water bodies where they can easily get in and out of the water and banks that have short turf and grasses they can feed on. Feathers and droppings on shore from geese are often aesthetically displeasing. Roosting on banks and feeding on grass also contributes to poor turf health, and the lack of turf can contribute to bank erosion. Maintain at least a 10 foot wide buffer of native grasses, bushes, and trees, around detention ponds. High grass deters geese, as it provides habitat for their predators. Alter the edge or shore profiles (using shoring rocks, etc.) of ponds to prevent easy movement in and out of the water. Some golf courses have had good control results using a border collie to harass geese and prevent them from congregating. Products such as the Goosebuster noise deterrent (http://www.birdx.com/gbuster.html) and Goose D-Fence at ( http://www.lakerestoration.com/) are available, but may not be appropriate for park use. Discourage people from feeding the geese. Geese are protected by state, federal, and international laws. Consult government regulations before attempting control.
CANADA GEESE
31
CHIPMUNKS
Small, brown ground-dwelling mammal, typically 5-6 long. Have short, pointy heads marked with black and white stripes down the back. Most active during the early morning and late afternoon. May damage trees by feeding on the bark. Check tree trunks near ground surface for damage. Chipmunks favor areas with stonewalls or rotting logs and heavy ground cover. They burrow, but excavate the soil, so tunnel entrances are well concealed. Spend most of their time in burrows. During winter months, they will go underground and stay inactive. Chipmunks eat both plant and animal material, including seeds, fruits, seedlings, flower bulbs, nuts, insects, worms, frogs, and songbirds. Seal entrance points and remove objects such as stones, logs, and debris that may be close to a structure. Place bird feeders at least 15-30 feet away from building. Remove debris piles that may provide harborage. Use taste repellents such as small amounts of garlic oil to help protect trees. Check with the public works department or Department of Natural Resources before trapping. To trap, use rat traps baited with peanut butter, sunflowers, oats, bacon, and apple slices placed near den entrances. Seeds and nuts shouldnt be used because it will attract ground-dwelling birds. Relocate trapped chipmunk into remote forest at least 5 miles from trap site. Use caution in handling and releasing.
WHITE-TAILED DEER
Females (does) are tan, cinnamon, and/or brown with a white muzzle and throat. The average size is 120 lbs., and 38 tall. Males (bucks) have patches of colored fur on their stomachs and their antlers are single beam with multiple tines. The average size is 160 lbs., 40 tall. Both male and female tails are brown on top, white underneath. Feeding may cause damage to ornamental plants and trees. Tree bark can be damaged by antlers. Garlic scent dispensers will repel deer when the pressure is low to moderate. If using repellants, set them out before deer establish regular feeding habits. Increase the number of devices if deer feeding persists. The key is to disrupt their feeding tendencies before they become an established habit. Make pouches of old nylons or cloth and fill with blood meal. If pouches attract coyotes, rats, dogs, cats, discontinue use. Motion light, cans/metal that will make noise, timed sprinklers, and fences strung from monofilament are good deterrents. Install deterrent plants: flowering herbs such as lavender, mint, borage, fennel, yarrow and other plants with thorns and spines that discourage feeding. Heavily scented herbs, including thyme, oregano, and dill may also work. Rotate deterrents before deer get used to them, using combinations to repel them through use of all their senses. Scented soaps hung from tree limbs (make sure to include hot pepper in soap to prevent rodents from chewing bark soaked with soap) may work to prevent feeding on bark. Integrated Pest Management for Park Districts Safer Pest Control Project
32
For high deer pressure in areas where damage is substantial, install 8 fence with netting. Electric fencing can also be used. Use solid fencing that deer cant see through, otherwise make fence at least 8 tall [12, 13].
GROUND SQUIRRELS
Brown to gray rodent, about 4 to 5 in length, with black stripes on both sides of its body, gray fur on its underside, and a brown tail. Rarely needs control. Usually found in open areas, but need some cover to survive. Can have extensive burrows with large mounds, especially along roads and ditch banks. May cause structural damage to buildings. Active during the day, hibernate in winter. Ground squirrels are primarily vegetarians, feeding on grasses, or seeds, grains, and nuts. Alter the habitat by reducing the areas that provide them with shelter (brush piles, debris, large rocks, tree stumps, etc.) Monitor these areas for their activity. For live trapping, use rat traps baited with peanut butter, nuts, oats, barley, or melon rind placed in bait boxes. No permit is required from the Department of Natural Resources (DNR) for trapping.
MUSKRATS
Muskrats are small, aquatic rodents that make their homes near lakes, rivers, and streams. The average size is 18 to 24 long, but some have grown up to 30. Muskrats can have up to 6 litters per season, and the length of gestation is roughly a month. They are mostly vegetarians, but will also feed on frogs, salamanders, newts, crayfish, mussels and fish. They readily eat any healthy plants such as cattail or horsetail, and their feeding may cause damage to nearby gardens or landscaping plants. As muskrats establish their dens near water bodies, their tunneling may contribute to shore erosion. Control muskrat feeding by spraying plants with garlic or hot pepper oil. Be sure to reapply every two weeks, or after a rainstorm. Apply sparingly, as over application will burn the plant. Fill in unoccupied dens to prevent muskrats migrating to the location, and bank erosion. Trap muskrats using a live trap baited with fresh vegetables, or the vegetation that they feed on. Relocate at least 10 miles from trapping location. The Illinois DNR regulates wildlife trapping, and you will need a permit beforehand.
33
OPOSSUM
White to gray, about the size of a cat, with a pointed face with rounded, hairless ears. Approximately 40 long, weighing up to 14 lbs. Prefers to live near streams or swamps. Repair breaks in foundation, screen outside windows that are low to the ground with hardware cloth. If animal is currently living under building, seal all openings but one and sprinkle tracking powder (flour or talc) at entrance, examine after dark, if tracking powder reveals that animal has left, seal the opening immediately. Cap chimneys and seal attics. Pay close attention, particularly in spring/summer when young are present, that animals have left the building before you seal it up. Live trapping set multiple traps, set out at night. Best baits: Apple slices, chicken parts/entrails, and fresh fish. The Illinois DNR regulates wildlife trapping, and you will need a permit beforehand.
RACCOON
Black facemask, and black, brown, and white ringed bushy tail. Feet are well adapted to climbing. Commonly found along streams, lakes, and swamps. Den located inside hollow trees, logs, rock crevices, deserted buildings, culverts, storm sewers, chimneys, attics, and crawlspaces. Most active at night. May knock over garbage cans and tear apart garbage bags in search of food. If encountered use extreme caution, as raccoons are carriers of rabies. Protect gardens through fencing, and keep lids on garbage cans using bungee straps. Prevent cans from being knocked over by storing them in a garbage corral. Remove possible den areas: lowhanging bush, dead trees, etc. Remove outside food, watering dishes, bird feeders, and garbage cans. Cover window wells securely. Use welded wire to prevent access under decks, elevated sheds, concrete slabs and porches. Secure outside access to crawl spaces. Place lighting in or near den during the day for at least one-week. Place a radio in or near den during the day for one week to disturb them and encourage them to move on. Place rags soaked in ammonia in den for one-week. Treat lawn for grub control. (Both skunks and raccoons feed on grubs). The Illinois DNR regulates wildlife trapping, and you will need a permit beforehand. Best baits: chicken parts/entrails, corn, fresh fish, or sardines. Once raccoon is trapped, it must be put down or released within a 100 yds of where it was caught.
34
SKUNKS
Black with white stripes or spots, size of an average cat. Active at night. Will spray with musk if they feel threatened. When natural selections for food are sparse, will feed on garden crops, garbage, and lawn insects. May transmit rabies. Protect gardens through fencing, and keep lids on garbage cans using bungee straps. Prevent cans from being knocked over by storing them in a garbage corral. Remove outside food and water dishes, bird feeders, and garbage cans. Cover window wells securely. Use welded wire to prevent access under decks, elevated sheds, concrete slabs and porches. Secure outside access to crawl spaces. Place lighting in or near den during the day. Keep light on for at least one week. If that doesnt work, place a radio in or near den during the day for one week to disturb them and encourage them to move on. Another option is to place rags soaked in ammonia in den for one week. Skunks feed on grubs. If turf is being torn up, skunks are likely feeding on grubs and it should be treated. Remove possible den areas: lowhanging shrubbery etc. The Illinois DNR regulates wildlife trapping, and you will need a permit beforehand. Once skunk is trapped, it must be put down or released within a 100 yds of where it was caught. To trap, cover all but entrance of trap with burlap or canvas before placing it (use commercially sold solid-skunk traps). Best baits for live trapping are chicken parts/entrails, fresh fish, cat food, sardines, or eggs. If youve trapped a skunk, approach the trap slowly and transport gently. To release, stand back 20 feet and release door using string.
SNAKES
Most snakes are non-poisonous, harmless, and beneficial. Their diet includes insects, rodents, frogs, birds, worms, or toads. If control is necessary, eliminate snake hiding places such as brush piles, woodpiles, and rock. Keep shrubbery away from foundations, eliminate rodent problems by reducing food and harborage, and mow grass short to expose their runs. Snakes often enter buildings through broken foundations, cracked mortar, and damaged vents make necessary repairs to prevent their access.
35
TREE SQUIRRELS
The average tree squirrel is gray, with a large fluffy tail and paws typical of the rodent family. It is 15 long and weighs about 1 lb. Tree squirrels are rarely a problem unless they gain access to buildings, where they may den in attics or overhangs. Identify entry point, seal with heavy gauge hardware cloth or sheet metal. To prevent access via utility lines, cut length of 2-3 diameter plastic piping lengthwise. Spread the opening, placing the pipe around the line. Squirrel will fall off piping. Use a rat trap for control. The Illinois DNR regulates wildlife trapping, and you will need a permit beforehand. Squirrel can be re-released after receiving the landowners permission.
36
CHAPTER 7 INSECTS
E
X P L A N A T I O N O F
E R M S
Btk a bacterial species that causes disease and death in caterpillars. Diatomaceous Earth a fine-grained and porous dust composed of the skeletons of diatoms (onecelled marine organisms with skeletons based on silicon) that can be used for controlling many pests. Garlic and Pepper Sprays oil made from steam distillation of crushed garlic bulb or hot peppers. Broad spectrum insecticide that kills both pests and beneficial insects. Horticultural Oils oils made from vegetables, basil, fenugreek, cumin, mint, clove, or eucalyptus. Broad spectrum insecticide that kills both pests and beneficial insects. Insecticidal soaps sodium or potassium salts combined with fish or vegetable oil and formulated to dehydrate the insect. Nematodes parasitic worms. Nymphs the larval form of an insect, usually resembling the adult, but lacking fully developed features. Prolegs front pair of legs on a multi-legged insect Pitch at the buds Pupae intermediate insect stage before becoming an adult, often characterized by insect appearing like a worm. Crawlers small, crawling insects. Degree Day the mean daily outdoor temperature. Phenology the study of reoccurring biological phases and the interaction of phases between (Some Definitions Adapted From: Common Sense Pest Control) species.
T APHIDS
R E E S
Feeding causes leaf, bud, and flower distortion; severely infested leaves and flowers will drop. Feeding can spread viral diseases. Adults are pear-shaped 1/32 to 1/8 insects with 2 short tubes projecting backward from the abdomen. Have long antennae, bodies are green, pink, black, dusty gray, or white with a fluffy coating. May or may not have wings. Nymphs resemble adults. Eggs over winter on woody stems, hatching in spring. Females can give birth continuously to live nymphs without mating. Spray small plants frequently with a strong stream of water to knock aphids off. Attract native predators and parasites by planting pollen and nectar plants. Lady bugs are natural predators and can be purchased from garden suppliers (Appendix C) and released into problem areas. Homemade garlic, quassia, or tomato-leaf sprays may work to repel Aphids. Use insecticidal soap or ultrafine horticultural oil to control [10].
37
BAG WORM
Damaged needles turn brown and may persist on the tree for some time. Bag Worms feed primarily on arborvitae trees, but also feed on spruce, juniper, white pine, elms, maples, buckeyes and other shade trees. When infestations are heavy, large numbers of brown cases hang from twigs and branches. Males are black, clear-winged moths with a 1 wingspan. Females are wingless, slug-like, legless and blind, and spend their life inside twig or leaf-covered case. Larvae are dark brown, - 1 caterpillars with white or yellow heads. Eggs are light tan and laid inside case. Larvae pupate in September. Eggs are laid in cases. Use pheromone traps to catch males. Handpick cases or use Btk. Attract native parasites with pollen and nectar bearing plants [10,11,12].
BLACK VINE WEEVIL

Plants wilt, despite the presence of moisture in the soil. Larvae feed on roots and adults chew on leaves, often damaging broad and narrow leaved evergreen trees and shrubs. Larvae tunnel into the roots, and can destroy the entire root ball. Larvae feed on plant roots or lower stems, and kill plants by destroying feeder roots and girdling stems. Adults feed on the foliage of numerous plants, especially yews and broadleaf evergreens such as rhododendrons and euonymus. Adults feed at night, forming holes around leaf margins or devouring entire leaves, except large veins. Adults are oblong, about 1/3 long with brownish-black spots on abdomen. Larvae are white grubs with yellowish heads up to in length. Lay small white eggs in the soil. Larvae hatch and pupate in the soil, and feed on roots. Control by physical removal at night, or by adding nematodes to the soil. Apply diatomaceous earth during dry conditions, reapplying after precipitation [10,11].
BORERS
Signs of borers include small holes in trunks or branches, and limbs may die or break off due to tunneling (or boring) in the inner bark. Extensive tunneling can overwhelm a trees defenses and kill it directly. Beetles can also carry pathogens Dutch elm disease for example that can kill trees.
Keep plants healthy with proper pruning, mulching, and watering during drought. Avoid wounding bark. Use caution when using a lawn mower or weed trimmer around trunks of woody plants. Prune off infested branches and seal. Destroy pruned branches and leaves immediately by burning or small chipping or grinding. Promote tree vigor by keeping it healthy. Probe into caterpillar borer holes with a flexible wire or inject parasitic nematodes. After treatment, seal holes with putty. Repair limb injuries by cutting back just to the Integrated Pest Management for Park Districts Safer Pest Control Project
38
outer edge of the shoulder ring of the limb. Remove infested limbs from trees, and dead or dying trees quickly. Pine oil compounds have been found effective in repelling bark beetles. You can also plant less susceptible birch varieties [8,10]. Note: Some recently introduced wood-boring beetles (for example, the Asian long Horned Beetle) are the subjects of quarantine and eradication requirements through the USDA. If you believe youve found a beetle of this type, contact a USDA representative.
BOX ELDER
Feeding can cause deformities in flowers, leaves, shoots, or fruit of boxelder, ash, and maple trees. Occasionally infests other shade or fruit trees. Damage is not usually serious, unless there is a severe infestation. May also become a structural pest. Swarms of congregating adults that are preparing for hibernation may be a nuisance. Adults are bugs with charcoal-colored wings and red veins. Nymphs are bright red, later marked with black. Females lay eggs in crevices on foliage or seed pods. Eggs hatch in 2 weeks. Nymphs feed on foliage until molting to adults in July. Adult females overwinter in buildings or sheltered areas [10]. Control is not typically necessary. Ensure proper caulking and weather sealing to prevent them from entering buildings.
EUROPEAN PINE SAWFLY

Larvae feed on the needles of Scotch, Mugo, and other pines. Larvae hatch in the spring into caterpillar-like larvae and appear gray with dark green stripes. They are different than caterpillars as they have large black heads and six or more pairs of prolegs. Larvae feed voraciously for a month or so, first eating only the outer portion of the needle, then consuming it entirely. In late spring they form a cocoon beneath a tree, and pupate in late summer. Wasp-like adults emerge in the fall. Do not seriously harm healthy trees. Clean under tree to remove cocoons.
EASTERN TENT CATERPILLAR
Feeds on plants in the rose family, Hawthorn, Black cherry, crab apple and apple trees. Adults are yellowish tan to brown moths with 2 narrow, diagonal stripes across wings. Larvae are black, hairy, 2-2 caterpillars with a white stripe along the back and irregular, brownish blue or red marks along the sides. Caterpillars spin tents of silk webbing in branch crotches of trees, and consume leaves from edges inward. Their feeding can defoliate entire branch or tree. Eggs are laid on twigs in masses and are covered with a hardened foamy layer. Eggs are dark and shiny.
39
Prune infested branches and burn them, or remove tents, preferably in winter when tents are easier to see. Attract native parasitic flies and wasps by growing small-flowered herbs. Apply Btk.
FALL WEBWORM
Caterpillars that spin webs around masses of leaves, causing stunted growth or leaf loss. In southern areas of Illinois, there will be two generations per year one in late spring and one in late summer/early fall. In northern Illinois, only the late summer/fall generation occurs. Remove cocoons by picking.
GYPSY MOTH
Heavy infestations can defoliate trees. If this occurs repeatedly, deciduous trees can be killed. A single defoliation will kill conifers. Larvae feed on leaves of many trees and shrubs, including conifers. Mature larvae are up to 2 gray-brown caterpillars with 5 pairs of blue dots and 6 pairs of red dots on back, and long hairs in tufts on body. Larvae feed in trees until July, then pupate for several weeks. Adults emerge in July to early August. Adult females are nonflying, white 1 moths with heavy bodies. Males are smaller, darker, strong fliers. Females crawl to nearby trees or other objects to deposit egg masses that are laid under a fuzzy yellow-brown covering. Eggs over winter on tree trunks and hatch in May. Report Gypsy Moth sightings to the proper authorities, as a local control program may already be in place. Other options include shaking off larvae, sweeping them up, and disposing of them. Apply Btk on foliage when larvae are feeding. If youre protecting small amount of trees, wrap a burlap band around the tree to trap the gypsy moth as they crawl down the trunk at night. Bands should be scraped off daily to maintain their effectiveness. Monitor daily to make sure that band is still around tree and hasnt been disturbed. Neem oil is also registered for control. Prune out caterpillar tents when possible [10,16].
40
T CUTWORMS
U R F
A N D
R N A M E N T A L
L A N T S
Feed on stems of vegetable and flower seedlings near the soil line, severing them or completely consuming small seedlings. Adults are brown or gray moths. Larvae are fat, slimly-looking caterpillars 1-2 in length, with shiny heads. Cutworms are surface feeding insects, which can destroy patches of turf. They feed at night and damage the turf by cutting plants off at ground level, and hide in thatch by day. Birds feeding extensively in a turf area may indicate a high population of cutworms and concentrated control efforts may be needed. Larvae feed on grass and other plants for 3-5 weeks, then pupate in soil. Adults emerge late August to early September, and lay eggs on grass or soil surface from early May to early June. Many species of cutworms have multiple generations per year. Suspect cutworms when seedlings have been cut off near the ground. Verify by searching just below soil surface debris in concentric circles around cut stems. Search at night on plants, or by day when they lie curled up nearby in the mulch. Collars of paper, cardboard, or plastic should be placed around transplants at planting, and collars should be pushed into soil until about half is below ground level. For treatment, add nematodes to soil, dig around base of damaged transplants in the morning and destroy larvae hiding below soil surface by removing thatch [10,16].
FUNGUS GNATS
Only larvae damage plants as they consume feeder roots and root hairs. Plants attacked by gnats will lack vigor, but will be mostly unaffected. Gnats have been implicated in spreading spores of soil pathogens such as, Fusarium, Verticillium, and Pythium. Gnats are small (1/8 to 1/10 in length), sooty gray or black, long legged, flies. Their wings have a distinctive Y-shaped vein at the tip and their legs and antennae are long and delicate. The eggs are about 1/100 long and laid in clusters. The larvae are white with black heads and are about in length when full grown. Theyre generally associated with organic food sources; may tunnel into plants or feed on foliage thats close to the ground.
Reduce access to garbage cans, eliminate wet areas on floors, reduce algal growth, practice good sanitation and inspect incoming plant material for gnats. Monitor adults with sticky traps available from hardware and garden stores, or see Appendix C for list of additional sources.
41
GRASSHOPPERS
Grasshoppers are chewing insects that feed from the outer edges of leaves inward, and eat any kind of vegetation. Often not a problem for smaller areas, but may become a problem for large fields. The differential grasshopper is 1 to 1 long, yellowish with brown and black markings and distinct chevron-like black markings on the hind legs. The adults of migratory and red-legged grasshoppers are about 1 long, reddishbrown on top and yellow beneath, with red-tinged hind legs. Nymphs are wingless, but otherwise resemble the adults. Elongated, brown-to-orange eggs (glued together in masses) form a pod in uncultivated soil, usually 1 to 2 below the surface. The differential grasshoppers winter as eggs and do not appear as adults until summer. Adults are brown, yellow, or green, 1-2 long with leathery forewings and enlarged hind legs, and many have brightly colored underwings. Nymphs appear similar to adults. Migratory and red-legged grasshoppers winter as eggs, which hatch from mid-May in southern Illinois to July in northern Illinois. The nymphs shed their skins several times, reaching maturity in 6 to 8 weeks. The adults continue to feed until fall, when they mate and the female lays eggs. During September and October, a single female will lay several egg pods containing from 15 to 120 eggs. The eggs are deposited 1 to 2 below the soil surface in field margins, fencerows, ditch banks, roadsides, and sod. Hot, dry weather favors grasshopper development. In wet, humid weather, diseases (bacteria and fungi) kill off many grasshoppers. Grasshoppers have many natural enemies. Among the more important ones are flesh flies, bee flies, blister beetles, ground beetles, spiders, hairworms, rodents, birds, and diseases. Attract these natural controls by planting or allowing native plants to grow [16].
Suck juices from stems and leaf undersides of most fruit and vegetable crops, flowers, and weeds. Their toxic saliva distorts and stunts plants and causes tipburn and yellowed, curled leaves with white spots on undersides. Can spread disease as they feed. Adults are wedge-shaped, slender, green or brown, 1/10 long insects. A forward point above the head is very pronounced in some species. Potato Leaf Hoppers are green and wedged-shaped; adults are about 1/8 long. Some have brightly colored bands on wings, and jump rapidly when disturbed. Nymphs are pale, wingless, but otherwise similar to adults. Adults lay eggs in spring, there are 2-5 generations a year; and can over winter as eggs or adults. Wash Leafhopper nymphs from plants with strong sprays of water. Spray plants with insecticidal soap or Neem oil for control. On maples and other trees, the damage can usually be tolerated without treatment. Replace nasturtiums, marigolds, and other flowers, (killed by leafhopper-spread aster yellows) with new plants in mid-summer [10].
LEAFHOPPERS
42
LEAFMINERS
Leafminers cause yellow spotting on leaves and premature leaf drop. Plants will also grow poorly and have sparse foliage. Larvae tunnel within leaves of many vegetable crops and ornamentals, feeding on leaf tissue and making round, winding, and hollow tunnels as they feed. Repeated infestations can result in dead twigs and a weakened plant, subjecting it to possible disease and winterkill in colder areas. There are several species of leafminer that may be encountered in Illinois. The adult Boxwood Leafminer is a gnat-like fly, 1/10 in length and orange-yellow colored. The adult Hawthorn Leafminer is a sawfly, a bee-like insect. The larva or maggot is yellowish-white about 1/8 long, and has a flattened body with three pairs of legs. The larva average about 1/5 in length when fully grown. The adult Oak Leafminer is a small moth. Larvae are usually about 1/10 long, and the adult is a small, black sawfly about 1/10 long. The larva is whitish, somewhat flattened, and slightly over long when full grown. It has distinct black spots in the middle of the underside of the thorax and first abdominal segments. The damage of most leafminers can be tolerated without treatment. In northern regions, Birch Leafminer, with similar characteristics to those described above, may require insecticidal treatment if the infestation is severe [10,15]. Consult a pest control technician if you believe the tree needs treatment.
The European Pine Shoot Moth is mainly a pest of Scotch, Mugo, red and Austrian pines in northern Illinois. Eastern white pines are much less susceptible. Pitch at the buds and a few dead needles with webbing are the first indication of an infestation. Larval feeding stunts or kills the twigs ("shepherd's crook") and causes deformed and bushy growth. Crooked stems called "post horns" result when a damaged shoot recovers. Injury caused to a bud or shoot by the European pine shoot moth is almost invariably the work of a single larva. The mature larvae of the European pine shoot moth are about 5/8 long and have brownish bodies and black heads. The small, reddish, adult European and Nantucket pine moths are not likely to be seen, but their larvae or pupae may be found in damaged buds and shoots. The mature larvae of the Nantucket pine tip moth are about 3/8 long and have yellowish bodies and brown heads. Both have pupae that are dark brown and slightly smaller than their respective larvae. The adult Zimmerman pine moth is gray with a mottled forewing of red and gray. The mature larvae are pink to green, depending on the host, with black spots containing a single bristle. The mature larvae are about long [15].
PINE MOTHS
43
Do not typically need control as they often do not cause widespread damage. If control is necessary, tree should be pruned after larvae have hatched, but before they are widespread [21].
SCALES
Oystershell Scale shells resemble an Oystershell. First generation hatches into gray crawlers in mid to late spring. In southern half of Illinois, another generation hatches in midsummer. Typically infest only certain branches or part of a branch. May fully encrust branch until it dies before moving on to another part of the plant.
Lecanium Scale scales turn brown and become brittle and helmet shaped. When eggs hatch, crawlers emerge in late summer. May achieve control with plant spray oil to suffocate them. Must be thoroughly applied to plant, as scale will not die unless completely covered.
Pine Needle Scale waxy covers of the scale appear as 1/8 long, white flecks on the needles of pine, spruce, hemlock, and other conifers. Dark red crawlers hatch and are present in midspring and midsummer. Control scales by wrapping electrical tape around tree, with sticky side out, to trap crawlers when they are active or by applying ultrafine horticultural oil. Use degree-days or phenology to determine when to scout and put out tape.
SNAILS AND SLUGS
Eat tender plants or shrubs and may demolish seedlings. Slugs and snails feed on many plants in landscapes, gardens, and greenhouses, creating large holes in annuals, perennials, bulbs, ground covers, trees, and shrubs. Adults are soft-bodied, gray, tan, green, black, yellow or spotted, wormlike animals. Slugs have no shells, while snails have coiled shells. Both measure 1/8 2 in length and leave characteristic trails of mucus wherever they crawl. Eggs are clear, oval or round, laid in jellylike masses under stones or debris. The gray garden slug, Peroceras reticulatum, is commonly found in Illinois. It is Integrated Pest Management for Park Districts Safer Pest Control Project
44
approximately to 1 long, ranging in color from pale yellow, to lavender, to purple. In addition, they are covered with black or brown spots and mottling. Slugs lay clusters of translucent, pearly-shaped eggs under debris or buried beneath the soil surface. They can lay between 20 and 100 eggs several times per year. Slug activity is highly dependent on soil moisture, as they require moisture to move around. Slugs are active at night (nocturnal) when humidity is high from evening rains or irrigation. They hide during the day under mulch, plant debris, rocks, boards, weeds, and ground covers. Slug management involves a combination of strategies such as hand picking, habitat modification, barriers, traps, baits, and commercial molluscicides. Monitoring is important to determine the effectiveness of slug management strategies. Check for slugs at night. During this time, handpicking can be performed to reduce slug populations. Handpicking is especially effective during moist weather conditions. For heavy slug infestations another possibility is to employ some neighborhood children to collect slugs and kill them. Natural enemies include Firefly larvae, toads, frogs, snakes, and lizards. Habitat modification is one of the most effective strategies in reducing slug populations. This involves eliminating hiding places such as mulches, weeds, old vegetation, and debris. Plant a diversity of trees and shrubs, especially those not preferred by slugs such as rhododendron and hardleafed evergreens. Cultivating the soil around plants may reduce slug populations by destroying eggs. Avoid watering late in the day as this creates moist conditions conducive to slug activity. Instead, water plants early in the morning. In addition, the use of drip irrigation systems where water is directed toward individual plants may lead to fewer slugs. Spacing plants far enough apart to allow air movement to dry the soil also reduces moisture. Copper barriers can be placed around the base of shrubs, flowerbeds, and trees that are being fed on. They can also be placed around flowerpots. Slugs receive a slight electric shock when their moist bodies contact the copper, repelling them. However, widespread use of this method may not be feasible. In addition, copper bands have sharp edges, which can harm children and pets. Diatomaceous earth, shredded bark, eggshells, lime, and wood ash have been used as barriers to prevent slugs from feeding on plants. However, these materials generally work best during dry periods when slugs are less active. In addition, the effectiveness of these materials is reduced by rainfall, which means they have to be reapplied regularly after becoming wet. Avoid using eggshells and lime as continued application will raise the pH of the soil and contribute to poor plant health. Also, never pour salt on slugs as this may burn plant foliage and roots. Traps, such as wooden boards, rolled-up newspapers, grapefruit rinds, and inverted one-gallon plant containers can be placed where slugs are feeding. Check traps daily, early in the morning and dispose of any slugs that are caught. Baits are available that attract slugs into traps where they then drown. Try Slug out or other slug baits (See Gardens Alive in Appendix C) [10, 15].
45
SPIDER MITES
Adults and nymphs suck juice from cells on leaf undersides of many food crops, ornamentals, and fruit trees. Plants are weakened, leaves may drop and fruit may be stunted. Early damage appears as yellow-specked areas on leaf undersides, where mites have sucked the sap from plant parts. Later, leaves are bronzed or turn yellow or white with brown edges, webs may cover leaves and growing tips and punctures become brown and sunken. The two spotted spider mite is quite small (< 1/60), oval-shaped, with 8 legs and fine hairs on its body. Can appear reddish, pale green or yellow with two dark spots on its back which are composed of food contents. Males are slightly smaller (1/80) and slimmer than females with a pointed abdomen. The eggs of the two spotted spider mite are pearly white, circular, and on webbing on the foliage. Young mites resemble the adults except in size, possessing only 3 pairs of legs in the first stage. Later they develop a fourth pair of legs. The immature mites pass through three stages before becoming adults. Most spin fine webs. Eggs or adults over winter in bark crevices or garden debris, emerge in early spring. Mites reproduce in many overlapping generations during the season. Neem oil and insecticidal soap can be used for control. However, avoiding frequent insecticide sprays helps conserve predatory mites, allowing for a natural control of spidermites.
JAPANESE GRUB/BEETLE
Larvae cause dead spots throughout turf by feeding on roots of turf and ornamental plants. Larvae are fat, dirty-white grubs with brown heads, up to long and are found in sod. Larvae over winter deep in the soil. In the spring, they move toward the surface to feed on roots. In early summer they pupate into adults. Adults are robust, metallic blue-green, beetles with bronze wing covers, long legs, and fine hairs covering their body. Adults feed on plants and lay eggs in the turf in late summer. Eggs hatch into larvae that live in the soil. One generation occurs every one to two years. A bacterial disease, milky spore disease, can be applied to areas prone to Japanese beetle infestation. The bacterium, Bacillus popillae (Milky Spore), can be a viable control measure if properly used. B. popillae needs to be applied when the grubs are first noticed. The bacterium first infects a small percentage of the population and slowly kills the grubs. Two to three years are required to allow the level of bacteria to increase among the grub population before significant control is obtained. In the meantime, other insecticides cannot be used to kill the grubs, as this will prevent the bacteria from multiplying. Encourage parasitic wasps and flies by landscaping with native plants [16].
46
WHITE GRUBS
Grubs survive in soil and damage turf by feeding on the turf and ornamental plant roots. White grubs are the larval stage of several beetle species. Healthy turf, which receives proper fertilization, irrigation, and mowing, can withstand low to moderate levels of feeding much better than poorly maintained turf. Occasionally a grub problem goes unnoticed until skunks tear up the turf, often at night, to feed on the grubs. The life cycle of white grub beetles varies by species. Knowing the species of grub is important so that the proper control strategies can be used. One important thing to understand is when the soil is cold (early spring, autumn and winter), grubs move downward in the soil to avoid being frozen. As the soil warms, grubs migrate upwards and actively feed on turfgrass roots. In the summer, survey the soil to determine if grubs exceed threshold levels, which should be 10-12 per square foot of turf. Do this by pulling back the sod or turf of the suspect areas or of patches of turf starting to show symptoms of stress. Severe grub infestations will allow the turf to be easily pulled from the soil. Count the number of grubs in each square foot area of soil within the root zone. Check for damage throughout the summer, especially July and early August. Control beetle grubs during July, August and the first week of September before the grubs migrate downward deeply into the soil where they are out of range of treatments. Check with the Illinois extension office for control options specific to the species of grub that needs control [16].
O HONEY BEES
T H E R
U I S A N C E
N S E C T S
Adults are gold and black striped insects, long with translucent wings. Larvae are white grubs located in wax combs in hives. Bees over winter clustered in hives, living on stored honey. They are beneficial insects as they pollinate flowers of fruit, vegetable, and ornamental plants. Trees and wall voids are common nesting areas. When populations are high, the queen may move part of colony to new harborage. Bees swarm at this time, usually finding hollow trees, but occasionally finding wall voids. Honeybees can chew through dry wall and fly inside. Stored honey attracts other bees and wasps. Dead bees, larval skins, and wax caps from combs all attract beetles and moths. Locate and have the nest destroyed. Contact a local beekeeping association. Many beekeepers will remove the bees to a commercial hive for a nominal fee. Otherwise, contact the public works department to determine control options. After the colony is dead, it is very important to remove the nest. Otherwise, wax combs will melt and allow honey to flow down through walls. Honey stains cannot be removed. Honey will also attract robber bees, wasps, and moths that may persist for several years. Dead bees will attract carpet beetles. Do not attempt wasp or bee control without proper protective equipment. A small amount of insecticide Integrated Pest Management for Park Districts Safer Pest Control Project
47
dust (for instance the proper Boric Acid product) spread around the nest opening will kill the nest. Keep cracks and crevices caulked and sealed to avoid nests in the walls [9].
HOUSE FLIES OR BLOW (GREEN) FLIES
House Flies live on garbage or manure, and are long. They have a dark, dull body, and may have yellow sides. Look for manure to find the source of flies. After larvae have fed on the garbage or feces (for example, pet waste), they crawl out of garbage or food source and look for a dry place to pupate. Blow (Green) Flies " long, thorax and abdomen are shiny black, metallic green or bronze, or they have a metallic blue abdomen with a dull thorax; live on dead animals, meat scraps in garbage, and wet mixed garbage. Look for manure, carrion, dead birds and rodents, and clean up or remove. Evaluate waste management; may want to increase the number of times garbage is removed. Clean garbage cans and dumpsters regularly, and any overflow immediately. Drain wet areas around garbage collection sites. Keep loading docks clean. Replace security and dock lights with orange or yellow lights. In food service areas, snack bars, etc., keep garbage collection dumpsters and cans well away from the food area. Keep the area very clean; remove spills immediately. Install air curtains or fans at serving windows and entrances. Fly strips and insect light traps using glue or an electrocution grid can be installed in areas of high traffic food area, garbage areas, outhouses/bathrooms. Regularly clean outhouses, garbage areas, food service areas, etc. [9].
48
MOSQUITOES
Figure 4 Adults are 1/8 in length, slender, with a single pair of wings and a long, piercing mouthpart called a proboscis. Mosquitoes are carriers of the West Nile Virus (WNV) and St. Louis Encephalitis. Recent cases of contracting WNV in Illinois have heightened concern over controlling the insect. Check with the Center for Disease Control (www.cdc.gov) or the Illinois Department of Public Health (http://www.idph.state.il.us/) for up-to-date information. Control Methods: 1) During mosquito season, encourage park goers to wear long-sleeved clothing and pants; post mosquito information on park bulletin board and other public areas 2) Identify potential larval sources of the mosquitoes 3) Eliminate as many potential larval sources as possible, which includes standing water (See Figure 4), clear any catch basins or clogged sewer lines, turn containers upside down so they dont hold rainwater, pull tarps taut so water cant collect on top, clear roof drains and gutters. 4) Maintain lighting away from areas that people will be using, use ionize lighting (orange) sodium vapor 5) Consult with IDPH on control options including larvaciding, the use of insect growth repellants (altosid or methoprene) and stocking isolated water bodies with mosquito eating fish
Site Preparation: Prior to parties and events, the event site can be surrounded with mosquito traps that use a combination of carbon dioxide and, sometimes, octanol to attract mosquitoes away from the area and capture many of the mosquitoes entering the site. This must be started before the event takes place. For small sites, fans can be used to create a breeze that is only slightly faster than the mosquitoes can fly to deter them from entering the area. See Appendix C for possible product suppliers.
Source: Common Sense Pest Control
PAPER WASPS
Flying insect, -1 long with a thin waist and an abdomen that tapers at both ends. Most easily distinguished from other wasps and bees by the hive usually constructed as an upside down, umbrella-shaped mass of cells. Nests are often found under caves and overhangs, near doorways and other places where they may come into contact with humans. During the summer, paper wasps feed on small insect larvae, spiders and other insects. Humans are not often stung. Wasps are Integrated Pest Management for Park Districts Safer Pest Control Project
49
attracted to ripe fruit, and similar sources of sugar (pop, candy, etc). Paper wasps are also beneficial, as they prey on caterpillars. Simply removing the nest early in the season may be effective, but after the nest is well established, the wasps will try to reestablish a new nest at the same location after it is removed. Caulk attic and window openings, and around wall penetrations. Treat established nests with diatomaceous earth or with a non-toxic mint oil spray available at: www.victorpest.com. Do not attempt control without proper protective equipment [15].
TICKS
Eliminate tall grasses in areas that patrons frequent. Ticks not only wait on tall grass for a host to come by, but prefer fairly humid environments environments typical of tall grass. By cutting tall grass, airflow and sunlight is increased, reducing humidity. Before attempting control, make sure the proper attire is worn, particularly in areas known to have Lyme disease-carrying ticks. Protective clothing should be a light color to easily identify ticks. Tuck pants into socks, and inspect for ticks afterwards. Remove leaf litter. Remove rodent nesting sites from around area. Certain mice are hosts for Lyme disease-carrying ticks and play a major role in the transmission of other tick-borne diseases. Stack firewood, landscaping supplies, and other materials away from service buildings or other areas that are open to the public. Locate bird feeders away from the site many bird species carry ticks. Spilled seed can also attract unwanted wildlife including mice that carry ticks. Mow around weedy fence lines that provide cover for rodents along nearby woodland edges [8].
YELLOW JACKETS
Adults are black and yellow, with yellow bands covering a dark abdomen and a thick waist. Adults are predators and prey on other insects. They build nests from wood pulp, saliva, and occasionally mud. They are about the size of bees, to long. Will build nests in soil depressions, rodent burrows, wall voids, or in any small hole in the ground that will give protection until workers can develop. Can live in environments close to human activity. Have large colonies, some with thousands of workers. Forage and scavenge for nectar and other sweet carbohydrates, and thus are often drawn towards garbage cans with pop, beer, sweets, and backyard fruit. Make sure sweet foods are removed and picnic tables are cleaned up. At social events, serve beverages in cups with lids, not bottles or cans. Important to monitor and clean garbage cans and picnic tables. Garbage cans should have domed tops with self-closing lids. If needed, increase frequency of garbage collection. Put out traps like the one pictured to the side available at hardware stores or
50
www.victorpest.com. Have the nest removed by a professional. Locate food serving strategically during late summer activities so that yellow jackets are not lured to dense crowds. In or near buildings, caulk wall voids and screen ventilation openings. In-ground nests may be treated with a mild insecticide dust such as Sevin or diatomaceous earth labeled for this use, then filled in with dirt. Nests in buildings may be treated with diatomaceous earth or boric acid labeled specifically for that purpose. Yellow Jackets can also be vacuumed as they enter and leave the nest by holding a vacuum hose close to the nest entrance. This may take some time if attempted after early morning, since most of the population will be out foraging. After vacuuming is complete, carefully remove vacuum bag and place in a larger plastic bag, such as a garbage bag. For extra safety, put bag in freezer for a couple of hours to kill Yellow Jackets before discarding. Do not attempt wasp control without proper protective equipment [8,15].
51
CHAPTER 8 SOIL, TURF, AND LANDSCAPING

The key to preventing insects, disease, and weeds from becoming a problem is to maintain healthy turf and landscaping. Maintaining healthy turf can be very labor-intensive, and can often consume a large part of the staffs time. A viable alternative, though often overlooked, is to replace turf with landscaping alternatives that require less maintenance. Below are suggestions for this type of landscaping, as well as methods for improving the health of the turf and ornamental plants that make up the existing landscape.
E C O N D
H O U G H T
O N
A N D S C A P I N G
Not all grass cultivars commonly used for turf are native to Illinois. Consequently, soil often does not have the right type or amounts of nutrients to support healthy turf. Nutrients need to be added to the soil through fertilizer, which translates into inputs of money and staff time. Redesigning or modifying a landscape is a way to reduce these costs. Although some areas will require turf, others may be better suited for other landscaping options. Mulches, decorative rocks, and native plants are all feasible replacements for turf and are often better choices. For instance, in areas that are heavily shaded or traversed, installing any of these options would reduce required maintenance. Native plants also require less maintenance, are often aesthetically pleasing, and they provide habitat to native species wildlife that is beneficial to the park and surrounding area, and is often a drawing point for park visitors. Soil, Turf, Ornamentals, and Maintenance Healthy turf and ornamentals require proper nutrient and water delivery, sunlight, maintenance, and soil conditions that provide for root development and microorganism activity. To start, this requires focusing on the soil. Essential nutrients for plant growth come from the soil and are delivered by the root system to the plant. Unfortunately, most soils dont contain the right amounts of all the needed nutrients. Different types of plants can also have very different nutrient requirements. Compounding the problem is that certain soil conditions make it difficult for plants to establish a root structure. During the transition to IPM, there will be a period of slowed turf growth while grass plants adjust. This is important to keep in mind if turf is being maintained for athletic purposes, as IPM methods will have to be phased in over a prolonged period of time to ensure that the turf remains at a consistent level of quality. Turf that is maintained for recreational use may not need as long, as the impacts of transitioning will not impede park goers enjoyment of the area. Achieving all IPM objectives will take some time. However, phasing the following methods into an IPM program can help achieve a landscape that is not only healthier, but one that is also more cost effective to maintain in the long run.
COMPACTION
Compaction occurs when air pockets, or small holes are pressed out of the soil. The soil becomes so dense that plant and turfgrass roots are unable to spread throughout the soil. Core cultivation, or Integrated Pest Management for Park Districts Safer Pest Control Project
52
aerating, is useful for alleviating this problem. According to the University of Wisconsin, aeration aids drainage, alleviates compaction, disrupts incompatible soil layers, manages thatch, and promotes turf growth and rooting, which increases the turfs stress tolerance, improves nutrient uptake, and can reduce weed invasion [16]. Aerating or cultivating should be done in early spring or late fall when weed germination is low. If it has to be done during high weed germination, a smaller tine diameter should be used. Core Cultivator A core cultivator is a pronged tool with tines that are pushed into the ground. As the tines are pulled up, plugs of soil are removed. Best used in small areas. The tool is very similar to a pitchfork, and the two can be used interchangeably for this purpose. Aerators For larger areas, use an aerator. Aerators are machines that pull plugs of soil out of the ground through the use of tines. There are two types of aerators. A drum or roller type aerator, which is often a heavy piece of machinery and may even add to compaction as it is used, and a piston-type aerator. A piston-type design generally works better as it will disrupt less surface area, pull deeper cores, and will not add to compaction. Also, when given a choice, select a machine with hollow tines theyre more effective. Beware of machines that punch depressions into the sod, like nails, spikes, or aerator sandals that have spiked shoes. They actually compact the soil even more directly around the hole [7]. To prevent compaction, avoid foot and motor traffic over the site while the soil is wet. Put up barriers such as shrubbery to prevent foot traffic in certain areas. If managing an athletic field, make sure athletes wear soft-spiked shoes, as metal-spiked shoes, such as those used in the past for golf, will cause compaction. If motor traffic is unavoidable, restrict it to a designated area. Any path that vehicles will repeatedly take should be covered with a 6 to 10 bed of dry wood chip mulch. Make sure service vehicles have dual tires, flotation tires, or that the tires on the vehicle are at the lowest, safest PSI [2].
MOISTURE MANAGEMENT
Every plant in a landscape has a certain amount of water it will need for optimal health. To achieve this, turf and landscaping needs to be properly watered, and the land needs to be managed in a way that storm water is absorbed properly and the excess drains off the property without collecting into pools. Both the amount and frequency of watering can influence turf and plant health, insect infestations, disease, and weed growth. Best Approach for Watering Watering infrequently and deeply will allow the turfs root system to become established, and is the best method to prevent weeds and disease. The best time to water is early morning. Avoid watering between 10 am and 4 pm because of high evaporation loss. Watering Donts Over watering turf will allow it to grow too rapidly, forming shallow roots that leave it vulnerable to pests and disease.
53
Under watering turf leads to low-density turf, increasing susceptibility to disease, weeds, and insects. Watering lightly and frequently will allow weed species to germinate. Watering at night will not allow the grass to dry out for a prolonged period of time, possibly leading to disease.
Drainage and Discharge Moist soils can cause certain weed species, pests, and disease to thrive. Moist soil often occurs near storm water discharge pipes, and drainage culverts. Make sure that drainage, discharge pipes, and culverts are free of obstructions that prevent water from flowing properly and cause it to pool. Determine if the flow can be contained by means of shoring rocks and kept from recreational and other areas where water is undesired. Trim low-hanging vegetation to increase airflow. Should these methods prove unsuccessful, consider rerouting the groundwater flow to an area that has better drainage. This can be done with a simple drainage tile system constructed by digging a trench that goes down grade in the direction you are attempting to route the flow, lining it with gravel, placing perforated plastic piping in it, backfilling with soil, and planting turf or a groundcover. Rainwater will permeate the ground, flow into the pipe and be directed to the end of the pipe which should be in an area that has better drainage or is near a storm water drain. Rain Garden Plants with high transpiration rates can be planted and used to absorb water in what is called a rain garden. Rain gardens are collections of native plants that thrive in moist or pooled water locations. The plants will absorb large amounts of water and release it into the atmosphere, causing pooled water to disperse at a faster rate. These plants can be found at local nurseries, garden centers, and some hardware stores. A list of suppliers can be found in Appendix C. Mulch for moisture retention when mulching a tree, follow these guidelines [14]: Use wood chips for mulch. Pile chips up to 4 deep. Pile them in a donut shape around the tree trunk. Make sure chips do NOT touch the bark. There should be a space of 2-3 between the base of the tree trunk and mulch. When mulch is piled against tree, it will rot the bark and provide opportunities for insects to attack. Targeted Irrigation is a method of ensuring that, when watering a landscaped setting, only ornamental plants are watered. This can be done through drip or sub-surface irrigation, which consists of a hose, either draped along ornamentals or buried along their root systems, that is perforated with a series of small holes. These holes slowly release water into the soil surrounding the plant, providing moisture only to the immediate area, keeping it from nearby weeds. This method not only prevents weeds from getting watered, but also eliminates water drift and minimizes water evaporation cutting down water use and cost.
54
THATCH
Thatch is a mat-like layer made up of dead roots, stolons, rhizomes, and, to a lesser degree, grass clippings. Thatch accumulates on the soil where turfgrass is planted, and prevents water from reaching grass roots, harbors insects and diseases, and blocks light penetration. Thatch is caused by a combination of factors including decreased soil microbial activity, too much fertilizer, poor aeration, poor drainage, and pesticide use particularly fungicides which reduce microbial activity [7]. Over-watering, compaction, and improper mowing also slows the rate in which thatch degrades. Reduce Thatch By: Mechanically remove it Encourage its breakdown through biological means. Remove thatch in the fall to minimize damage to the turf. Use a heavy thatch rake (available at lawn and garden or hardware stores) or, if thats not available, use a leaf rake to rake up and remove the thatch [1]. Soil may be slow to break down thatch because it may have adapted to absorbing nutrients from quick release fertilizers. Conversely, microorganisms and worms can speed up the degradation of thatch. Encourage them by using organic rather than chemical fertilizers, not using herbicides, and top dressing with rich topsoil, unsterilized compost or peat moss.
SOIL HEALTH
Turf is often fertilized routinely, whether needed or not, with all possible nutrients. This can adversely affect turf and plants, potentially leading to the onset of disease (i.e. Brown Patch) or contributing to the growth of weeds. The application of excess fertilizer can also lead to pollution of ground and surface water through run-off. On the other hand, under-fertilizing stresses plants, lowers tolerance to pests, and reduces plant quality [16]. Both cases are detrimental to the landscape. To avoid these situations and ensure that the proper fertilizer is applied, the soil needs to be tested. Plant health and resistance to disease and infestation relies on the plant receiving the right nutrients from the soil. To ensure this, you need to know what nutrients the soil is lacking, and which soil amendments you need to add. Soil testing will help you determine how to adjust the pH, and the type and amount of fertilizer you should use. For information on receiving a kit containing instructions on how to collect soil, contact your local extension service. Testing costs roughly $15 per sample. If you have varying soil types or are managing a large parcel of land, its a good idea to test samples from different locations and landscapes throughout the site. Be sure to mention the types of vegetation growing in the soil along with that sample this will assist the lab in making recommendations for adjusting the pH and adding nutrients. The test results provide the pH of the soil. The pH value should be slightly acid to neutral (between 5.5 and 7) for turf. Certain pH values can lock up nutrients in the soil, preventing their absorption and extreme pH values are unsuitable for turf growth. Weeds can often withstand these conditions. Thus, you may find soil patches that are barren of growth, except for a few weeds (a common example would be spotty turf with crabgrass). You can often observe this near roads as the Integrated Pest Management for Park Districts Safer Pest Control Project
55
road salt has collected over the winter and dissolved into the nearby soil, causing the soil pH to become more acidic, and allowing for weed growth. Generally, options for addressing extreme pH values are: 1) Convert turf areas near roads into landscaping by planting ornamentals and laying down mulch or decorative landscaping stones. 2) Adjust the pH in areas where changes will be relatively permanent (i.e. not soil adjacent to a road that is salted every winter). Adjusting the pH of the soil requires using either acidic fertilizers or sulfur to lower the pH or powdered limestone to raise it. Ph adjustments to the soil are not generally permanent, and it is advised to explore option number one above first. The test results will also come back with recommendations for fertilization, including suggestions for using various chemical fertilizers. For better turf health, substitute these recommendations with organic alternatives. Detailed information on fertilizing can be found below.
FERTILIZING
Fertilizers are a necessary part of site maintenance, but their use should be targeted, and in some cases eliminated, to minimize impacts on the environment and improve the health of site vegetation. Chemical fertilizers are commonly fast acting and are absorbed by the plant readily. They encourage shallow root growth and the build up of thatch by slowing the decomposition of grass clippings. Additionally, chemical fertilizers are often overapplied, resulting in storm water run-off and causing water quality problems such as algal blooms in nearby water bodies. Over the long run, this translates to higher maintenance costs in addition to the toll it takes on the health of the turf and the surrounding environment. To address these concerns, the first step should be to move towards using organic fertilizers. Many organic fertilizers are slow-release, which means that nutrients will be available to the plant over a longer period of time. This also means that turfgrass will be encouraged to form deeper roots, thus making it less susceptible to drought. Using organic fertilizers also increases the populations of beneficial microbes and worms in the soil, resulting in improved soil structure, increased water-holding capacity, run-off prevention, the break down of thatch, and nutrient return to the soil. As organic fertilizers are phased in, these benefits will be manifested in the improved health and vigor of the turf. Transitioning to an organic fertilizer is a process that starts with a soil test . Then, based on recommendations from the test results, you will need to find an organic fertilizer that will supplement the reported nutrient deficiencies. Sources for organic fertilizers include www.gardensalive.com, local garden centers, and hardware stores. See Appendix C for additional sources. You may need to experiment with varying fertilizers to find which will work best based on your site. Frequency During the transition, the amount of fertilizer applications will decrease. If you are fertilizing more than twice a year, you should move towards fertilizing once in the fall and once in the spring, and eventually move towards one application made in the fall. Integrated Pest Management for Park Districts Safer Pest Control Project
56
Fertilizer Application Targeted fertilization can also be used for the ornamentals in a landscape. Fertilizers can be applied by drip irrigation systems where perforated surface or sub-surface hoses slowly release liquid fertilizer into the soil surrounding the plant, providing fertilizer only to the immediate area. This method prevents fertilizer nutrients from reaching weeds or other unwanted vegetation, and eliminates fertilizer waste from overapplication. Like turf, ornamentals should only be fertilized with the nutrients needed, based on the results reported from the soil sample test, and on the care instructions for the plant. An additional method is to apply a slow-release fertilizer to the planting-hole before the ornamental is planted. This often comes in a hardened spike or powdered form and is available at garden centers, hardware, and other lawn and garden stores.
MOWING
Grass height affects moisture in the ground and light penetration. A grass length of 2 to 3 will help reduce the number of weed seeds germinating and also maintains needed moisture for the turf. Turf mowed too low will be open to weed seeds and may not establish a healthy root system, leaving grass susceptible to insects, weeds, and disease. Mowing too frequently causes the grass to regenerate instead of establishing a significant root system, and also leaves the turf vulnerable to pests. Adjust the mowing schedule depending on the type of turfgrass and use of the field keeping in mind the ideal 2 to 3 height for most turf grass and that no more than 1/3 of the height of the grass should be cut at any one time. Keep athletic field turf at the longest length possible, taking into safety and playability concerns. Since certain weed species will not tolerate a consistent mowing schedule, regular mowing can also be an effective way of controlling weeds.
OVERSEEDING
In some areas, existing turf may have difficulty growing or it may not be filling in completely. After discovering the cause and addressing it (whether it is inappropriate fertilizing, sun exposure, moisture, etc.) overseeding is a viable option to regenerate the turf. Overseeding is the spreading of grass seeds on a site, usually at rates greater than what is recommended by the seed packager. The object is to provide the best chance of seeds growing into turf.
57
Illinois has cool season grasses, so overseeding should be done in the fall. For areas less than 1000 ft2, all you need is a heavy metal garden rake and a lawnmower. First, mow the turf at half the normal mowing height. Rake lawn thoroughly, removing clippings and thatch, and pull any weeds. Use rake to break soil surface, providing a place for new seed to take root. Alternatively, a slitter can also be used to break the ground. Using 1 times the amount recommended on the seed package, sow seeds with a drop spreader. After sowing, go back over with rake or top dress (info below) at about cubic yard per 1,000 ft2. Pack planted seeds with the back of the rake or by gently walking over the planted area. Stay off seeded area and water frequently for a 2 to 4 week period. Once grass emerges, allow it to grow to the maximum acceptable height before cutting.
TOP DRESSING
Top dressing, or covering the turf with a thin layer of organic matter or soil, can lead to better aeration, drainage, and prevent the spread of disease. Organic matter encourages microorganism activity in the soil. Microorganisms break down thatch and combat the bacterium that cause many turf diseases. Increased organic material will increase the earthworm population in the soil as well. As mentioned before, worms aerate the soil, improving plant health and increasing the ability of the soil to absorb water. Both microorganisms and worms return nutrients to the soil, decreasing the need for fertilizers. Using unsterilized compost reduces thatch as it contains microorganisms that break it down. Also, fine-screened compost is best for the nutrient content. Other good topdressings are sand, topsoil, ground seaweed, rotted sawdust, well-rotted manure, and peat moss (make sure it is moist). Apply in the fall, spreading a layer no thicker than 3/8 with a drop spreader or by hand [3].
58
CHAPTER 9 ADOPTING IPM POLICY

BE A LEADER IN YOUR COMMUNITY
Many communities are increasingly interested in finding ways to be environmentally conscientious. Practicing IPM is a great opportunity to be a leader in your community and other communities in environmental stewardship.
SUGGESTIONS FOR IMPLEMENTATION
1] Educational Opportunities for Youth and Community Members Many grade school educational programs include environmental issues, focusing particularly on how people can help improve environmental quality in their own communities. Crafting educational programs around your IPM program provides an excellent opportunity to engage local grade schools in the outdoors, and provides an opportunity to showcase the accomplishments associated with implementing IPM. Signs erected around the park can champion the park districts commitment to providing a safe and scenic place for people to enjoy. They also provide an opportunity to explain how IPM methods work, and how the surrounding area is benefited. It is also a way to continually involve the public in pursuing an IPM policy. 2] Involve Policy Makers Invite the park district board, city council, county, and other officials out to visit the park. Take this opportunity to showcase the benefits and innovation of the program, including enhanced aesthetics of the park, new and beneficial ways to engage the public, the positive impact on surrounding areas, managerial cost savings, staff motivation and buy-in, etc. Encourage officials to pursue a park district policy to exemplify their commitment to the health of the community and surrounding environment.
SUCCESSFUL IPM PROGRAMS
IPM is practiced successfully from the National Park Service and the San Francisco municipal properties to little leagues, golf courses, and school grounds. Below is a list of a few successful programs. North Shore Country Club Golf Course, Glenview, Illinois Most golf courses are treated with an extensive array of pesticides to maintain their impeccable turf. However, at the North Shore Country Club, the Superintendent, Dan Dinelli, has found ways of reducing pesticide use. He emphasizes that the foundation of IPM is avoidance of pest treatments by sound cultural and biological practicesmy approach to plant care recognizes that plant health depends on its environment and interactions with a multitude of other organisms. The challenge is to understand these interactions and develop strategiesto favor the desired plant. For Dinelli, these include regular monitoring, good record-keeping, insect pest trapping, and testing equipment. The golf course provides continuing education for staff and golfers and has found computer modeling very helpful. (Source: IPM on Golf Courses by Dan Dinelli in IPM Practitioner, Volume XIX, No. 4, April 1997)
59
Northwest Athletic Association Little League Jefferson County, Missouri After being alerted to the risks of herbicide use on playing fields, the Northwest Athletic Association decided to look for alternatives and become a role model in managing fields without using toxic chemicals. To make it official, they adopted the following goal: To provide the safest environment for the children utilizing available pest control alternatives. Instead of herbicides along fences and backstops they began using a propane flamer, which gets as good or better results. They also incorporated rock salt for additional control assurances. Together this resulted in a reduction in maintenance costs. According to Bryan Carroll, safety officer of the league, Providing safer fields without chemicals is just a matter of education, commitment to protecting kids and seeking out solutions. (Source: ASAP News, May 2000, Northwest Athletic Association Little League) National Park Service Since 1980, the National Park Service has had a policy requires the use of IPM whenever practical. Pesticide use is approved only when alternatives are not feasible and the selected pesticide will not have an ecological or sociological impact on the site. The National Park Service manages a huge variety of resources, including historical and cultural sites as well as parklands, such as a historically significant peach orchard on the grounds of the Gettysburg National Historical Site. Park staff have responded with new and creative pest management strategies tailored to the needs of particular sites and, as of 1994, pesticide use has decreased by 70 percent. (Source: IPM in National Parks, Nancy Owen Myers in Journal of Pesticide Reform, Summer 1994) San Francisco In 1996, the City of San Francisco passed an ordinance requiring city departments to decrease pesticide use. This included taking care of gardens and golf courses, two places where pesticides were frequently used. To care for flower beds in Golden Gate Park, staff developed a system where the empty beds are watered and allowed to sit for two weeks to let weed seeds germinate. Then a flamer is used to kill the surfacing seedlings. Only occasional hand weeding is needed. On the slopes surrounding the city, goats are being used to clear brush and reduce the fire hazard! Staff have also installed weed barriers, begun an intensive gopher and mole hole monitoring and trapping program, and are testing different mowing regimes. On the citys golf courses, staff has tried slowrelease organic fertilizers, various aeration methods, and selecting plants sturdy enough to handle the salty air. Monitoring for diseases and weeds, and maintaining detailed records has helped supervisors understand the patterns of disease outbreak. From trial and error and experimentation, they have been able to find many successful solutions. (Source: Experiments and Success Stories, Gregg Small and Deborah Raphael in Pesticides and You, Vol. 19, No.3, 1999) Susqueanna School, New York After students at Susqueanna School were accidentally exposed to pesticides and became ill in 1991, the New York Department of Environmental Conservation ordered the school to halt all routine pesticide applications and to implement an IPM program. The schools engineers eliminated all pesticide applications on their turf and playing fields. They now use organic fertilizers and compost twice a year on the athletic fields, aerate the soil four times a year, and mow high and frequently. In the first year, they spent most of their time doing preventative maintenance that has paid off in Integrated Pest Management for Park Districts Safer Pest Control Project
60
subsequent years with reduced labor and other costs. Overall, the school is saving $1000 annually on pest control. Angelo Ranieri, building engineer, says We have now cut costs and labor across the board for the past 7 years and the turf looks better than ever. (Source: Cost of IPM in Schools Factsheet from Safer Pest Control Project, 1998).
61
PARKS/FOREST/NATURAL AREAS MODEL INTEGRATED PEST MANAGEMENT POLICY
Introduction: This Integrated Pest Management Policy ("Policy") shall govern the adoption, implementation, and oversight of an Integrated Pest Management program for all sites under the purview of the ___________ Park District ("District") effective _______________(date). Specifically, all pesticide use on grounds or in buildings maintained by the District will be subject to guidelines stated herein. Findings: WHEREAS, pesticides are currently applied to property owned or operated and maintained by the District; WHEREAS, it is difficult or impossible to prevent patrons and employees of the District from coming into contact with those pesticides; WHEREAS, District is dedicated to protecting the health and welfare of its patrons and employees; WHEREAS, scientific research indicates that no pesticide is completely safe, and that various pesticides may pose risks to human health, particularly to the health of children, the elderly and other sensitive populations as well as non-target animal and plant populations; WHEREAS, Integrated Pest Management represents an effective, environmentally sound and economical pest control method, the goal of which is to control pest species while reducing and, where possible, eliminating dependence on chemical pest control strategies; NOW, THEREFORE, the District shall develop and implement the following Integrated Pest Management program: Statement of Policy: It shall be the policy of the District that Integrated Pest Management will be used to prevent and control pest problems in or on property maintained by the District. Non-chemical controls shall be given preference over chemical controls. Defining Integrated Pest Management: Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is a sustainable process for managing pests that relies on knowledge about the plant, disease, or insect pest and its interactions with the environment and utilizes a variety of control measures, including structural, physical, cultural, biological and, only as a last resort, chemical controls, in a way that minimizes environmental, health, and economic risks. District Integrated Pest Management Program: Integrated Pest Management for Park Districts Safer Pest Control Project
62
A. The District shall submit a detailed work plan for implementing Integrated Pest Management, which will incorporate the following approach: 1. Monitor pest populations. The District shall collect baseline data on an ongoing basis to locate and determine pest population densities and population growth, and whether and to what extent natural enemy population(s) are present. Records shall be kept of such monitoring. 2. Establish tolerance levels. To decide whether treatment is warranted, an acceptable tolerance level shall be established for each pest and site by determining the type, size, and density of pest population that must be present to cause levels of unacceptable environmental, aesthetic and/or economic damage, or create a risk to human health. 3. Identify a range of preferred treatments. Non-chemical, non-biological control strategies including structural, physical/mechanical and cultural controls shall be considered first. Chemical approaches should be used only as a last resort. In selecting a treatment approach, the following criteria shall be considered: a. b. c. d. e. Least-hazardous to human health Least disruptive to natural controls Least-toxic to non-target organisms Least-damaging to the environment Most likely to produce a permanent reduction in habitat conducive to pest populations f. Cost effectiveness over a reasonable term. (For example, 2-5 years). 4. Educate staff. Education is a critical component of a successful IPM program. The District shall commit to providing ongoing training for employees and assisting in developing educational programs for the public. 5. Notify contractors. The District shall inform all contractors of their obligation to comply with the IPM program. Authorization, Review and Evaluation of the IPM Program A. An IPM advisory committee ("Committee") shall review all IPM plans and review all pesticides used by the District. The Committee shall be governed by the following rules: 1. The Committee shall be composed of....[District representatives, members of citizen's action groups working on pesticide use reduction, other representatives of the public] 2. All members shall be in agreement with the intent of the Policy and shall seek management techniques that minimize or eliminate the use of pesticides. 3. ____________ shall convene and conduct the meetings of the Committee.
63
B. Annual reports evaluating the IPM program shall be submitted to the Committee by the District. C. Every two years, the Committee shall conduct a review of the programs overall effectiveness in managing pest populations. This assessment shall include an evaluation of all chemical applications, including a figure reflecting the total quantities of pesticide active ingredient applied, as well as any new information on the hazards of chemical controls. D. The Committee shall be responsible for keeping the public informed of the District's IPM program. Information requests from the public about the Policy will be directed to an appropriate member of the Committee who will answer it promptly. Notification Requirements The public shall be notified of any interior or exterior broadcast applications of pesticides, as well as any applications on large exposed areas in or on any property maintained by the District as follows: A. Signs shall be posted at the time of application of pesticides. 1. Signs shall be headed Notice of Pesticide Application. Signs shall contain the following information: the name of the pesticide, the date of application and a telephone number for more information. 2. Signs shall be posted at the entrance to all buildings where pesticides have been applied. 3. Signs shall be posted at all park entrances where pesticides have been applied. 4. Signs shall be posted at appropriate intervals along property lines abutting residential areas. B. Prior notification shall not be required when a situation presents a direct threat to the public health and requires immediate action. Meeting Federal and State Regulations No pesticide shall be used unless it is registered for its intended use under the Federal Insecticide Fungicide and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA), 7 U.S.C. 135 et seq. The District shall not violate any state or federal rules and regulations relating to pesticide use, or the safety provisions set forth on pesticide labels. Severability If any section, sentence, or clause of this Policy is held invalid or unconstitutional, such holding shall not affect the validity of the remaining portions of the ordinance. Effective Date This Policy shall take effect upon passage by __________ and publication as required by law.
64
Definitions Biological Controls means the use of a pests natural predators or parasites to eliminate or reduce the pest population. Bombing means a treatment that releases large volumes of liquid aerosol into the air. Examples include spraying, misting or fogging. Broadcast means the application of granular formulated pesticides to broad expanses of surfaces. An example includes application of pesticides to lawns. Cultural Controls means the use of education to effect changes in persons perceptions and behaviors as a method of preventing pest problems, avoiding pesticide use and more broadly promoting the health and sustainability of a given area. Mechanical Controls means the use of mechanical procedures to eliminate or reduce pest populations, such as mowing and aeration of lawns. Natural Controls means the use of any method that does not employ synthetic substances as a way to eliminate or reduce pest populations and which may draw upon elements common to the environment. Examples include companion planting and attracting beneficial insects to reduce pest problems in gardens. Pests means any unwanted insects, plants, fungus (molds), and rodents. Pesticide means any substance or mixture of substances designed or intended for use to prevent, destroy, repel or mitigate pests, or to be used as a plant growth regulator. Pesticides include, but are not limited to, insecticides, herbicides, fungicides, and rodenticides, and certain pestspecific compounds of biological origin aimed at disrupting the lifecycle of the pest. Physical Controls means the use of controls that physically inhibit pests ability to inhabit an area by modifying their environment. Examples of physical controls include using traps and barriers, influencing temperatures, controlled burning or hand-pulling of weeds. Structural Controls means the use of a whole systems approach to controlling pest populations, which may include addressing structural issues in both buildings and landscapes. Examples of structural controls include adopting long-term maintenance practices such as caulking and sealing, and repairing the building or landscape to remove places where pests may breed, such as removing indentations in the earth that cause puddles where mosquitoes may breed.
65
APPENDIX A MONITORING FORMS
Integrated Pest Management for Park Districts Safer Pest Control Project 66
APPENDIX B EXAMPLE POLICY, LAWS AND REGULATIONS

EXAMPLE POLICY
LAWS AND REGULATIONS 415 ILCS 5/2.

Sec. 2. (a) The General Assembly finds: (iv) that it is the obligation of the State Government to manage its own activities so as to minimize environmental damage; to encourage and assist local governments to adopt and implement environmental-protection programs consistent with this Act; to promote the development of technology for environmental protection and conservation of natural resources; and in appropriate cases to afford financial assistance in preventing environmental damage;
415 ILCS 60/19. Interagency Committee on Pesticides

2. The interagency committee shall: (1) Review the current status of the sales and use of pesticides within the State of Illinois. (2) Review pesticide programs to be sponsored or directed by a governmental agency. (3) Consider the problems arising from pesticide use with particular emphasis on the possible adverse effects on human health, livestock, crops, fish, and wildlife, business, industry, agriculture, or the general public. (4) Recommend legislation to the Governor, if appropriate, which will prohibit the irresponsible use of pesticides. (5) Review rules and regulations pertaining to the regulation or prohibition of the sale, use or application of pesticides and labeling of pesticides for approval prior to promulgation and adoption. (6) Contact various experts and lay groups, such as the Illinois Pesticide Control Committee, to obtain their views and cooperation. (7) Advise on and approve of all programs involving the use of pesticides on State owned property, state controlled property, or administered by State agencies. This shall not be construed to include research programs, or the generally accepted and approved practices essential to good farm and institutional management on the premises of the various State facilities.
225 ILCS 235/3.25 (2003) 225 ILCS 235/3.25. (For postponed repeal of this Act, see notes under 225 ILCS 235/1) [Integrated pest management defined]
Sec. 3.25. "Integrated pest management" is defined as a pest management system that includes the following elements: (a) identifying pests and their natural enemies; (b) establishing an ongoing monitoring and recordkeeping system for regular sampling and assessment of pest and natural enemy populations; (c) determining the pest population levels that can be tolerated based on aesthetic, economic, and health concerns, and setting action thresholds where pest populations or environmental conditions warrant remedial action; (d) the prevention of pest problems through improved sanitation, management of waste, addition of Integrated Pest Management for Park Districts Safer Pest Control Project 72
physical barriers, and the modification of habitats that attract or harbor pests; (e) reliance to the greatest extent possible on nontoxic, biological, cultural or mechanical pest management methods, or on the use of natural control agents; (f) when necessary, the use of chemical pesticides, with preference for products that are the least harmful to human health and the environment; and (g) recordkeeping and reporting of pest populations, surveillance techniques, and remedial actions taken
APPENDIX C PRODUCT SUPPLIER LIST

Home Harvest: http://www.homeharvest.com/ Gardens Alive: www.gardensalive.com Victor Pest: www.victorpest.com McMaster-Carr: P.O. Box 740100 Atlanta, GA 30374-0100 www.mcmaster.com Gemplers: www.gemplers.com Peaceful Valley Farm Supply: www.groworganic.com Green Fire: www.greenfire.net Biocontrol Network: www.biconet.com Waipuna: 630-759-8100 Goose Buster: http://www.bird-x.com/gbuster.html Goose-D-Fence: http://www.lakerestoration.com/
NATIVE PLANT SUPPLIERS
Art and Lindas Wildflowers (708) 785-2943 E-mail: art@artandlindaswildflowers.com. www.artandlindaswildflowers.com Taylor Creek Restoration Nurseries/Applied Ecological Services 17921 Smith Road, Broadhead, WI 53520 (608) 897-8641 E-mail: info@applied eco.com www.appliedeco.com The Natural Garden 38W443 Route 64 St. Charles, IL 60175 (630) 584-0150
The Growing Place 25W471 Plank Road Naperville, IL 60563 (630) 355-4000 www.thegrowingplace.com Planters Palette 28 W. 571 Roosevelt Road Winfield, IL 60190 (630) 293-1040 www.planterspalette.com Prairie Nursery P. O. Box 306 Westfield, WI 53964 (800) 476-9453 (800-GRO WILD) www.prairienursery.com
* Note: SPCP does not endorse nor is SPCP affiliated with any of the above companies. Contact information is provided solely as resource in attaining the products mentioned in the manual.
74
APPENDIX D CONTACTS/RESOURCES
Michael P. Anderson Consulting Ecologist/ Restorationist Biologic Environmental Co. 2505 Richardson St. Fitchburg, WI 53711 608-277-9960 John Spier Associate Professor of Environmental Turfgrass Science 1575 Linden Dr. Madison, WI 53706 608-262-1624 Dan Dinelli Golf Course Superintendent North Shore Country Club Mike Fletcher Clarendon Hills Park District Superintendent 630-921-4869 Chris Pekarek Assistant Golf Course Superintendent The Village Links of Glen Ellyn 490 Harding Ave Glen Ellyn, IL 60137 630-469-2077 ext. 2 Angelo Ranieri Susqueanna Schools, NY (IPM program for athletic fields) 1040 Conklin Rd Conklin, NY 13748 607-775-9156 Mark Stefan River Trails Park District/ Golf Course Superintendent Rick Stumpf Highland Park District 847-681-2189 Tom Wilson Lombard Park District/ Golf Course Management 630-627-1281 DNR Wildlife Nuisance Permits (nongame), call 217-782-6384 Illinois Sport Turf Managers Association Midwest Hotline: 847-622-3517 Center for Disease Control: 1-800-3113435 or www.cdc.gov Illinois Department of Public Health: 217-782-4977 or http://www.idph.state.il.us/
75
APPENDIX E REFERENCES, RECOMMENDED READING

[1] Safe & Easy Lawn Care; The Complete Guide to Organic, Low-Maintenance Lawns. Ellis, Barbara; Editor. Copyright and publishing, Houghton Mifflin Company, 1997. [2] Gemplers 1999-2000 IPM Almanac; The Essential Resource for Integrated Pest Management. Mulhern, Barbara; Editor. Published by Gemplers Inc. Copyright 1999 Gemplers Inc. [3] The Chemical-Free Lawn; The Newest Varieties and Techniques to Grow Lush Hardy Grass. Schultz, Warren. Rodale Press; Emmaus, PA. Copyright Rodale Press, Inc. 1989. [4] Illinois Pesticide Applicator Training Manual Fruit and Vegetable Crops Pest Control. Paulsrud, B.; Babadoost, R.; Weinzierl, P.; Nixon, P.; Masiunas, J.; Wiesbrook, M.; Mohr, M. University of Illinois; College of ACES. Special publication 39-17. [5] Weed Facts; Turfgrass Management an IPM Approach. Neal, Joeseph C. Department of Floriculture and Ornamental Horticulture; Cornell University, Ithica, NY. 1993. [6] McMaster P.O. Box 740100 Atlanta, GA 30374-0100
[7] How to get your Lawn and Garden Off Drugs. Rubin, Carole. Published by Harbour Publishing Co. Ltd; Madeira Park, BC V0N 2H0. Copyright 1990, Carole Rubin, 2nd Ed. 2003. [8] Common Sense Pest Control; Least-Toxic Solutions for your Home, Garden, Pets, and Community. Olkowski, William; Daar, Sheila; Olkowski, Helga. Published by Taunton Press; Newton, CT. Copyright Olkowski, Daar, Olkowski, 1991. [9] Urban Integrated Pest Management; A Guide for Commercial Applicators. Wood, Dr. Eugene; Pinto, Lawrence. Edited by Cox, Jann. USEPA; EPA 735-B-92-001. July 1992. [10] The organic Gardeners Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control. Ellis, Barbara W.; Bradley, Fern Marshall. Published by Rodale Press: Emmaus, PA. Copyright Rodale Press, Inc. 1996. [11] Natural Insect Control; The Ecological Gardeners Guide to Foiling Pests. Brooklyn Botanic Garden. [12] Rodales Successful Organic Gardening Controlling Pests and Diseases. Michalak, Patrick S.; Gilkeson, Linda A. PhD. Published by Weldon Russel Pty Ltd.; North Sydney, NSW 2060. Copyright Weldon Russell Pty. Ltd., 1994. [13] Deer Proofing your Yard and Garden. Massingham Hart, Rhonda. Published by Bicks Lithograph & Printing Corporation. Copyright 1997, Rhonda Massingham Hart.
76
Web Sites: [14] Insect images: http://www.insectimages.org/ [15] University of Wisconsin IPM Website: http://www.ipm.uiuc.edu/
[16] University of Wisconsin IPM Program: http://ipcm.wisc.edu/programs/school/table.htm All pages Copyright 2000 The Board of Regents of the University of Wisconsin System The Bugwood Network - The University of Georgia [17] College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences and Warnell School of Forest Resources Copyright 2002. All rights reserved. http://www.bugwood.org/ [18] ForestryImages is a joint project of The Bugwood Network and USDA Forest Service. The University of Georgia - Warnell School of Forest Resources and College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences - Dept. of Entomology Last updated on Monday, January 27, 2003 at 02:03 PM http://www.forestryimages.org/ [19] National Park Service IPM manual: http://www.nature.nps.gov/wv/ipm/manual.htm [20] The Garden Club of America: www.gcamerica.org [21] http://ctrees.cas.psu.edu/Pest%20Sheets/epineshootborer.htm [22] Michigan State Universitys IPM Home Page: http://www.ipm.msu.edu/CAT02_land/L0517-02.htm Articles: [21] Turfgrass Weed Management An IPM Approach. Neal, Joseph C. Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 1992. Reprinted in Handbook of IPM for Turfgrass and Ornamentals; Leslie, Anne R. Copyright CRC Press Inc. 1994. ISBN#: 0-87371-350-8. [22] Softspikes Golf Cleats: A Revolution in Golf. Arner, Robert.
Picture Sources: Bat www.pacofhudson.com/pac7.html Fungus Gnat www.umass.edu/.../floriculture/ floral_facts/fungnat.html Box Elder www.dallas.tamu.edu/insects/ Ent-3001.html Canadian Geese http://master.provostadve...s/geese_canadian.jpg Chipmunk http://www.livingwithwild...at_chipmunks_tmb.gif Deer http://www.co.ho.md.us/RA.../RAPImages/Deer3.jpg Grasshopper www.tpwd.state.tx.us/expltx/ jrnat/bugbasics.htm Ground Squirrel http://www.ianr.unl.edu/p...graphics/13line1.gif Honey Bee www.corkyspest.com/ahb.html Muskrat http://www.muskrattracks.com/eng/muskrat.htm Opossum www.animalcontrolproducts.com/ Animal.html Paper Wasp www.ento.csiro.au/aicn/ name_c/a_73.html Integrated Pest Management for Park Districts Safer Pest Control Project
77
Raccoon http://www.boquetriver.org/raccoon.html Skunk http://www.proviso.k12.il...t/images/skunks1.gif Snake www.fws.gov/r9extaff/ drawings/page7d.gif Ticks www.dnr.state.wi.us/.../ce/eek/ critter/insect/ticked.htm Tree Squirrel www.sherpaguides.com/.../ crooked_river_state_park.html
78

Park District Manual - Pest Control

Încărcat de

Informații document

Descriere originală:

Drepturi de autor

Formate disponibile

Partajați acest document

Partajați sau inserați document

Opțiuni de partajare

Vi se pare util acest document?

Este necorespunzător acest conținut?

Drepturi de autor:

Formate disponibile

Park District Manual - Pest Control

Încărcat de

Drepturi de autor:

Formate disponibile

TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION TO INTEGRATED PEST MANAGEMENT

INTEGRATED PEST MANAGEMENT PRINCIPLES AND METHODS P

(Adapted From: Gemplers 1999-2000 IPM Almanac)

CHAPTER 2 TRANSITIONING TO IPM (HOW TO USE THE MANUAL)

Timeline (In Months) 0-4 0-4 4-6 6 7-8 7-8 8 8 8 9 on 9 on

EXPLANATION OF STEPS STEP 1 BEGINNING THE TRANSITION

STEP 2 ASSESSING THE SITE

STEP 3 DEVELOPING AN IPM PLAN

STEP 4 CONTINUED MONITORING, RECORD KEEPING, AND EVALUATION

STEP 5 DEVELOPING/ADOPTING POLICY

CHAPTER 3 MONITORING, IPM PLAN, AND EVALUATION

DEVELOPING A MONITORING PROGRAM

FIGURE 1 LOG PORTION OF MONITORING FORM

FIGURE 2 MAP PORTION OF MONITORING FORM

TOOLS FOR THE BASELINE AND FOLLOW-UP SITE ASSESSMENTS:

SHORT-TERM IPM METHODS

FIGURE 3 COMMON GARDEN TOOLS

IPM LONG-TERM METHODS

CHAPTER 5 PLANT DISEASE

(DRECHSLERA) MELTING OUT OR LEAF SPOT

NECROTIC RING SPOT

PYTHIUM BLIGHT, GREASE SPOT, COTTONY BLIGHT

RED THREAD (PINK PATCH)

TYPHULA BLIGHT, GREY SNOW MOLD

CHAPTER 6 NUISANCE WILDLIFE

BLACK VINE WEEVIL

EUROPEAN PINE SAWFLY

EASTERN TENT CATERPILLAR

SNAILS AND SLUGS

HOUSE FLIES OR BLOW (GREEN) FLIES

Source: Common Sense Pest Control

CHAPTER 8 SOIL, TURF, AND LANDSCAPING

CHAPTER 9 ADOPTING IPM POLICY

SUGGESTIONS FOR IMPLEMENTATION

SUCCESSFUL IPM PROGRAMS

PARKS/FOREST/NATURAL AREAS MODEL INTEGRATED PEST MANAGEMENT POLICY

APPENDIX A MONITORING FORMS

APPENDIX B EXAMPLE POLICY, LAWS AND REGULATIONS

LAWS AND REGULATIONS 415 ILCS 5/2.

415 ILCS 60/19. Interagency Committee on Pesticides

APPENDIX C PRODUCT SUPPLIER LIST

NATIVE PLANT SUPPLIERS

APPENDIX E REFERENCES, RECOMMENDED READING

S-ar putea să vă placă și