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A Ad niin dv va ng an g nc ce ed dA An na ally yt tiic ca all M Me et th ho od do of fT Tr ra aiin ( (A AA AM MT T ) )M Ma an nu ua all

K KS SA A-T Te ec ch hn no op pa ak k
January 2008 (Copy 1)

A Brief Note on the Manual..


The purpose of this manual is to provide both a guide and a reference for the instructor in learning and applying the Advanced Analytical Methods of Training. The manual contain: 1. A general outline of the principles of AAMT 2. Detailed descriptions of the techniques and procedures, which the instructor should follow in order to achieve the best results in training.

The Manual has been laid out in such a format that it provides the list of the topic to be discussed on each day of training of Instructors, suggesting number of hours to be put into a given discussion. All the exercises and Formats have been compiled at relevant place of occurrence of a particular activity. In a normal course of instructors training on AAMT, the trainees should spend four hours in the class room training and 4 hours on doing the sewing exercises. The four hours of the training should be broken down into two 2-hour sessions. The difference that exists between sewing training of the AAMT Instructors and the Operator trainees is, while AAMT Instructors sewing exercises are concentrated on Skill and Quality Development, the operator trainees sewing exercise involves all the aspects which are skill, quality and stamina build-up. This means the trainee instructors work on the board exercises, fabric exercise and move on to the garment sewing as a part of the skill development.

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Learning AAMT.
Day
Day 1

Description
Discussion 1 (Orientation) Discussion 2 (History of AAMT)

Topics to be covered
Need of a Training Program Origin Development KSAs Involvement Job Analysis Systematic skill, stamina & knowledge development Established Goals and Targets Defined Quality Specifications Establishment of Training Centre Selection and Placement Induction and Orientation Participation A trained Staff for Training Measurement and Control of Progress Purpose of AAMT Manual Ease of Learning Efficient Learning Rapid Learning

Page No.
9 10

Discussion 3 (Scientific Training Concepts)

13

Day 2

Discussion 1 Discussion 2 (Aims of AAMT)

28 29

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Retraining Cross Training Improved Methods More Successful Learners Reduced Labour Turnover Reduced Make up Cost Improved Quality Operation Analysis Separate Training Course Skill Development Break Down into Parts Spaced Learning Rhythm and Pace Stamina Build up Goals and Targets Measurement and Controls Individual Program Training Centre Quality Specifications Participation Co-operation of Supervisors Training Instructors

Discussion 3 (Results of AAMT)

31

Day 3

Discussion 1 (Basic Principles of AAMT)

34

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Day 4

Discussion 1 (AAMT Techniques)

Outline of Training Course Key Points Targets Quality Training Inspection Procedures Fixing Repairs Programming Participation A New Trainee Retraining Techniques Job Knowledge Training Demonstrating Techniques Working with Operators General Guidelines in administering Training Activities Graduation Transfer and Follow up Purpose and Composition Job Analysis Develop Job Exercise Equipment Setting Targets Preparing Course Outline Exercise Worksheet

43

Day 5

Discussion 1 (AAMT Techniques)

80

Day 6

Discussion 1

96

Day 7

Discussion 1 (Developing a Training Program)

103

Discussion 2
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(Performance Measures and Monitoring)

Single Cycle Stamina Development Target Daily production Training Graphs Overcoming Learning Plateau Instructors Guidelines

Day 8

Discussion 1 (Guidelines for setting up the allowed training time) Discussion2 (Guidelines for AAMT Instructors for Operator Performance Improvement)

134

Case A: Capacity and Performance both above Training Curve Case B: Capacity above Training but Performance below the Training Curve Case C: Capacity and Performance both are below the Training Curve

137

AAMT Questionnaire for Instructors

144

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Day 1
INTRODUCTION
Among the various challenges, being faced by Apparel Industry, which is labour intensive by nature, is shortage of trained work force. In the present scenario, where global apparel trade is increasing at a very rapid pace, shortage of a trained pool of employees or low performing employees turns out to be a real limiting factor for organizations survival and growth. To deal with it, Industry world over agrees to a single solution Training. Training is not only an essential for organizations success, but also its continuation and consistency. When we talk about training it involves following aspects: 1. Training of Middle Management. 2. Training of Operators, helpers, Quality Controllers, IEs across the organization. 3. Re-training to improve the quality and productivity of the employees. 4. Cross training for developing the multi skilled operators or promoting employees to more rewarding job on the basis of their capability (e.g. training Ironers for stitching).

Objectives of todays session...


On completion of this session one should develop understanding on: 1. Why do we need to have an organized training program like AAMT for our employees? 2. Origin of AAMT 3. KSA and its South Asian affiliate Technopak. 4. KSAs involvement with the evolution of Advanced Analytical Method of Training AAMT. 5. Scientific Training Concepts that AAMT is based on.

Day 1

Discussion 1 (Orientation) Discussion 2 (History of AAMT)

Need of a Training Program Origin Development KSAs Involvement Job Analysis Systematic skill, stamina & knowledge development Established Goals and Targets

20 minutes 60 minutes

Discussion 3 (Scientific Training Concepts)

160 minutes

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Defined Quality Specifications Establishment of Training Centre Selection and Placement Induction and Orientation Participation A trained Staff for Training Measurement and Control of Progress

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Discussion 1 20 Minutes
Why do we need to have an organized training program like AAMT for our employees? It has been widely realized that Poor employee training is expensive, especially when accompanied by high turnover. (Turn over refers to The ratio of the number of workers that had to be replaced in a given time period to the average number of workers). The cost to train an operational employee to a productive work level is often estimated at several lakh Rupees. Some items falling in the cost of training are as below: 1. Trainee wages: The wage that is paid to the trainees while she is under training till the time trainee reaches 100% performance and required quality level. 2. Overheads: The overhead cost on account of Instructors salary, electricity cost, transportation cost (if provided), training materials and aids, machines utilized (could have been used in actual production), other factory overheads etc. 3. Low production on account of poor performance and other factors. Many firms experience high training costs and uneven, disappointing training results, but these can be avoided by carefully choosing and carrying out the most appropriate approach to employee training. Kurt Salmon Associates designed the formal employee training programs for its clients, using the concept of the Advanced Analytical Method of Training (AAMT). KSA has used this training method across a broad product spectrum to make such typical improvements as: 50% to 60% reductions in the time required to train an employee to the productive level. 50% to 75% reductions in the cost per successful trainee. 300% increases in the number of successful trainees. 25% to 30% increases in trainee productivity during the training process.

Such improvements have been made over a wide range of product applications. KSA now offers employee-training programs in the areas of apparel, textiles, carpets and rugs, footwear, furniture, health care and hospitality (food and lodging).

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Discussion 2 60 Minutes HISTORY OF AAMT


1. Origins: Work of Seymour brothers.
Analytical methods of training originated in England in 1942 owing to the efforts of two brothers, Dr. A. H. Seymour and Dr. W. D. Seymour. Both had been trained as industrial psychologists and management consultants and at times were involved with the training of large numbers of people for war industries. They advanced the theory that workers could be trained more rapidly by analysing the skills of the job, that is, the psycho-physiological characteristics of skilled operator performance.

This skills analysis involves: 1. The patient study of the skilled performer to discover the information that he derives from the job at each stage. 2. How he uses this task-derived information to determine and control the various body movements necessary for optimum performance of the job? The research and experiments carried out by the Seymour brothers formed the starting point for our understanding of the nature and acquisition of industrial skills. In addition to their pioneering work in the field of skills analysis, the Seymour brothers also introduced the concept of parts training splitting the job into separate parts for ease and speed of learning. T.W.Is work Similar work along these lines was being carried out at the time in the U.S.A., and was incorporated into a program known as T.W.I. (Training Within Industry). This was a wartime program used in America primarily to train supervisors. Part of the program was concerned with giving supervisors guidance on the training of operators.

2. Development
In 1943, the firm of Personnel Administration (P.A. Management Consultants, Ltd.) was formed in England with the primary purpose of developing the new training techniques which the Seymour brothers had initiated. Since that date, P.A. has expanded into all fields of management consulting, and by 1967 employed more than 400 consultants. During the early years, P.A. carried out assignments on a wide variety of industries, introducing the new training techniques and carrying out further research and development. KSA Technopak

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Since their inception, the new training techniques have gone under a number of different names: P.A.M.T. (Process Analysis Method of Training) P.A.M.T. (P.A.s Method of Training) A.M.T. (Analytical Method of Training) S.A.T. (Skills Analysis Training) A.A.M.T. (Advanced Analytical Method of Training) Each of these techniques is based on the original skills analysis concepts, but much has been added to the original theories from the research in more recent years in the fields of motivation and teaching techniques.

3. KSAs Involvement
KSA (Kurt Salmon Associates), now a global consulting firm, was founded in 1935 by German textile engineer. Trained as a textile engineer in Coblenz, Germany, Kurt Salmon immigrated to United States in 1930 and worked in a Hosiery mill. He became a consultant, since he enjoyed looking for ways to improve things and measure the results without worrying about daily shipments. He switched to apparels subsequently because it was more labour intensive than hosiery and offered greater cost reduction potential. Today, KSA is a premier global management consulting firm offering integrated strategy, process and technology deployment solutions to the retail, consumer products and health care industries. Technopak Advisors, exclusive affiliate (for South Asia region) of Kurt Salmon Associates, has a world wide reputation of being the thought leaders and expert in the apparel plant start ups, middle management training and re engineering of existing units among many other services for the global apparel industry. In 1963, KSA decided, although they had been involved in the training of operators for years, their concepts and techniques of training in the apparel industry should be improved and updated in order to provide a better service to their clients. As a first step in developing improved training techniques, they carried out a study of the existing training methods and programs in the apparel industry. The study revealed that there were three consulting companies providing operator-training services for the apparel industry: 1. David King, operating primarily in England 2. Geoffrey Ladhams Associates, operating in the U.S.A. and Europe 3. Hitchcock, Ibbotson and Hoddinott (HIH) operating solely in the U.S.A. Each of these companies was founded by consultants who had previously been with P.A. in England, and each companys techniques of training originated from the same basic theories. The study showed, however, that although all three companies talked the same game, the work carried out by HIH was more practical and thorough, more effective and more lasting than the results achieved by the other UNDP Page 11 of 160 KSA Technopak

two companies. KSA decided that, instead of trying to re-invent the wheel, they would achieve more by making use of HIHs training knowledge and experience in conjunction with their own industry knowledge and experience. An association was formed between the two companies, with the aim of developing the best training techniques specifically for the apparel industry. The result has been AAMT - a combination of the most advanced training techniques with KSAs accumulated years of engineering and industry know-how. By the end of 1967, the AAMT techniques had been successfully launched in more than 50 garment plants in the U.S.A. and Canada, studies of previous training methods had been carried out in more than 70 plants, and a total of more than 30 consultant years had been billed to clients on AAMT work. Throughout this time the AAMT techniques have been progressively improved, streamlined and developed and today the consultant has a wealth of experience to draw upon. By early 1967 the wheel turned a full cycle when KSA started AAMT assignments back in England in successful competition with the numerous training practitioners there. The combination of industry knowledge and training expertise in AAMT has produced a management tool, which can produce effective savings far in excess of any rival attempts in the same field.

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Discussion 3 160 Minutes SCIENTIFIC TRAINING CONCEPTS


These are the most essential points of AAMT and can be rightly called soul of AAMT. The true success of an AAMT program being run depends on the correct understanding and implementation of these principles. These principles form the basis of each and every activity in AAMT. The main principles, which are applied in AAMT to meet the training needs of modern industry, may be summarised as follows:

A. Job Analysis
Detailed study is required for each job for which AAMT training course is to be set up. This study is centred on: 1. Overall arrangement and organisation of the work. 2. The specific techniques and skills involved in individual job elements. This job analysis provide the base upon which the entire training course is founded. The job analysis inputs are most important factors of the achievement of overall objective of training of operators in very less time to 100% performance and quality level. In actual application this requires inputs from the Industrial Engineering in the form of best method. If the I.E. department is not there in the factory, the trainers must do the method study on the best practices, critically evaluate them to discover important sewing and handling methods involved. While doing the method study, the instructor should not only document the existing method, but also look for the improvement potential based on the principle of industrial engineering like: 1. Process Charting 2. Principle of motion economy 3. General Classification of Hand Motions 4. Precision 5. Kinesthetic sense 6. Work space Engineering 7. Ergonomics * refer to Apparel Engineering Module of Master Plato. At this point the topic has just been introduced. In subsequent sessions we shall learn how we should approach while selecting exercises and developing exercise / method documents for them.

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B. Systematic Skill, Stamina And Knowledge Development


The basic skills required in a job must be developed separately to the level and pace of the experienced work at the beginning of training, and combined progressively until all job skills are being performed correctly. When we talk about the level and the pace it refers to meeting the targets on each of these exercises with quality. The method of Setting up of the target and quality goals has been explained in the subsequent sessions. The work assignment is then extended as performance permits until a full workload is being satisfactorily carried out over an entire working day. The job analysis provides the information from which basic skills are identified, and appropriate training exercises are designed and defined to develop these skills. The next step is the performance of small elements of the actual operation involving the use of the basic skill. The exercises for this phase of development are called "job exercises" and "parts exercises." The exercises are then extended and combined progressively until the whole job is being performed first for short period; and finally on a full job assignment. These exercises are called "stamina build-up exercises." Job knowledge training is included throughout the training period to produce, with practical ability required, a well-rounded understanding of the entire job.

Following chart represents different stages of a AAMT Training:

100% All Day


Four hour Two Hour One hour Bundle/ Half-hour Single Cycle Speed Quality Method Basics

STAMINA

SKILLS

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The progression of the exercises should be as per following plan:

Stages of Training
STAGE ACTIVITIES Develop hands and fingers abilities Paper Exercises Machine Exercises Fabric Exercises APROX. DURATION

Basic Exercises

AAMT Tools and Controls: Operators Progress Record (Master trainer) Progress Control Sheet (Prog. Cord.) NOTE: It is completed once all the Basic Exercises are cleared under the allowed time. Fabric Exercises to be done as per Training Course Design Aimed to develop skills in key operations of the product/style to be sewn in the plant as per specific skill group Gradual increase in difficulty level Exercises in SNLS Exercises in OL Any other product specific machine AAMT Tools and Controls: Operators Progress Record (Master trainer) Progress Control Sheet (Prog. Cord.) Training Course Design Instructors Loading Exercise Documentation NOTE: Exercises to be cleared under the allowed time. Ideally to be performed in the AAMT Centre. In case of use of any specific method or work aids, train on that specific part individually Operator is moved to the assigned machine in the line. Review threading and cleaning of

Max. 10-12 days

Skill Exercises

Max. 5 days

Max. 6 days

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Operational Exercises (Trial Production)

machine. Demonstration of the technique using the methods documented by Engineering. Provide copy to keep in the machine. Explain and provide written copy of the quality specifications Practice of the operation with training garments. Affirm correct methods with the operator Train operator to unstitch neatly and redo the operation, if quality is inappropriate. Begin quality drills (3 daily) 100% quality checks Certification in the operation.

AAMT Tools and Controls: AAMT daily sheet (Master Trainer) AAMT Audit (Prog. Cord.) NOTE: It is completed once the operator is certified. Begins commercial production. Methods assurance; comply with methods check list 3 capacity studies 8 quality checks. One every hour. 3 quality drills Start measuring performance Start the daily progress summary Performance Development AAMT Tools and Controls: AAMT daily sheet (Master Trainer) Daily Progress Summary (master Trainer) AAMT Audit (Prog. Cord.) NOTE: Start graphing when the operator reaches a capacity of 30% or two weeks after certifications, whatever occurs first. Methods assurance; comply with method document Page 16 of 160 Depends upon Training curve

Graphing Training Curve UNDP

It depends on the curve.

KSA Technopak

3 capacity studies 8 quality checks 3 quality drills Performance follow-up Daily progress summary Daily graphing of performance and quality

Its when the operators capacity is between 30% and 50%.

AAMT Tools and Controls: AAMT daily sheet (Master Trainer) Daily Progress Summary (Master Trainer) AAMT Audit (Prog. Cord.) Ops above/below the curve report (Prog. Cord./weekly) ( % red/green) Methods assurance 3 Capacity studies 8 quality checks 1 quality drill 8 stamina runs using the 50% rule. Performance follow-up Graphing AAMT Tools and Controls: AAMT daily sheet (Master Trainer) Daily Progress Summary (Master Trainer) AAMT Audit (Prog. Cord.) Ops above/below the curve report (Prog. Cord.) NOTE: The operator can begin graduation when she/he has a capacity higher than 100% and performance higher than 90%. Methods assurance 2 Capacity studies 8 quality checks 4 stamina runs of at least 2 hours, or Bundle by bundle follow-up. Performance follow-up Graphing Make sure the operator has plenty of work to achieve target. AAMT Tools and Controls: UNDP Page 17 of 160

Stamina Development

It depends on the curve. From 50% capacity to 100% performance (graduation).

Graduation *

5 days.

KSA Technopak

Daily Progress Summary AAMT daily sheet (Master Trainer) The training structure and the schedule for the job knowledge training are attached in the next pages of this manual. We shall understand each of these steps in detail in the subsequent sessions.

C. Established Goals Or Targets


One of the most important points while applying AAMT is that there must be a target for each of the exercise trainee is performing. It is necessary to have specific goals to aim at throughout the training period. Targets are set for all exercises, and performance is measured against these targets. Progress to longer and more difficult exercises is dependent upon achievement of targets on the simpler ones. Targets are set at the level expected of the experienced worker. At this point, it has just been introduced. In subsequent sessions we shall learn how we should approach while selecting exercises and setting targets against them.

D. Defined Quality Specifications


One of the most critical transformations that have been seen while a trainee is graduating from parts of job to Single cycles is increase in the defect level of the pieces being produced. Therefore it is essential that a clear understanding of the quality requirements of the job be developed, along with a systematic training in skill and stamina. As part of the job knowledge training, the quality requirements must be defined in terms the employees can understand and work with. The quality specifications are prepared in terms applicable to the job, including where possible actual examples showing limits of acceptability, the standard at which to aim, and examples of defects and errors. A quality specification sheet is prepared in this regard which lists all the basic parameters and specific requirement of the job. Further instructors are advised to seek the factorys quality department to provide inputs on the important quality requirements of any operation. Also, Care needs to be taken while preparing the method documents so that any motion which is critical to any quality parameter is not overlooked. Further, mock ups need to be prepared which is a representative of the correct quality and displayed at the trainees machine to act as a visual guide for any reference. A representative quality specification sheet has been included in the further pages. KSA Technopak

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E. Establishment Of A Training Centre


The most effective and rapid learning is achieved in an area separate from the main work area. The training centre is equipped to facilitate basic skills and knowledge training away from the distractions of the actual working area. In the training centre, work is oriented to building an atmosphere for learning, and the prime objective is the motivation of people to acquire job ability. The use of "mock-up" equipment is utilised as much as possible in the training centre, but the nature of some equipment required that the training be carried out both in the actual work area and in the training centre.

F. Selection And Placement


There is no point in trying to train operators who do no have the necessary aptitude for the job. In a tightening labour market, it is not always possible to select sufficient operators of the desired calibre. What is essential is that once selected, they should be placed on the job for which they are most suited. The process of selection and placement does not stop in the personnel office. It must be carried on in the training program, particularly during the early stages. The selection criteria need to effective enough to be able to help the recruiters in selecting the trainees with correct dexterity and ability to perform the job at required level. Next page lays out the criteria for the selection and recruitment of the operators used in AAMT:

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Selection Test Procedures & Norms


An interview, if properly conducted, tells a lot about the applicant. But since every job is recognised to have a certain skills needed by the performer for its successful accomplishment, it becomes important to recognise the presence of basic skills required to be a successful sewing operator. A detailed analysis of various sewing operations will show the basic skills required are: Manual dexterity (Speed of hand movements) Finger Dexterity (Speed of finger movement) Hand-Eye Co-ordination Sewing Test (If the operator is experienced)

Keeping the above basic skills required in mind it becomes important to test the presence of these basic skills through some simple tests, which can be administered to both experienced as well as fresh candidates. We have different tests to analyse properly these abilities:Dexterity Tests: Assessing finger dexterity, hand dexterity, Vision Tests: Eye perception and accuracy

Tests must be conducted and administered through a recognised and standardised procedure. The test score must not be affected by administration conditions. The people conducting the test must very clearly understand the correct procedures of administering the test and demonstrate it properly. They must make the candidate realise that their selection is based on their test results so should not take it lightly and move AS FAST AS POSSIBLE. The following dexterity tests will be conducted for all operators: Peg Board - KSDA (Hand & arm co-ordination, two-hand co-ordination) Peg Board - KSDB (Finger and wrist dexterity, two-hand co-ordination) KSP - Visual accuracy and speed

The above picture shows a Peg Board to be used for the operator selection and recruitment (refer KSDA and KSDB tests). UNDP Page 20 of 160 KSA Technopak

For the purpose of maintaining the confidentiality the KSP exercise sheet has not been attached herewith.

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TEST KSDA - PEG BOARD 1 2 Abilities Tested Apparatus required Hand and arm dexterity Two-hand co-ordination Peg Board Metal Pegs 120 Timing clock 3 Position Seat candidate close to table in good light conditions. Check height of table and chair. Board placed with long side facing operator: Pegs in upper holes, away from operator. Board must be stable. 4 Administration Take the position of operator and explain the test. The purpose of this test is to know how fast you can move your hands. We must take these pegs, one in each hand, and fill the lower holes like this. Demonstrate: take simultaneously two pegs from the two left columns, one with left hand, and one with right hand and fill the two lower holes in the same columns. Fill all the holes in the same column, using the same method. Begin the same work with pegs of the two following columns Ask the operator if she understood what you did. Replace pegs in the upper holes. Have the candidate work on the test; stop her when she completes the first two columns. Tell the operator: This was a try to see if you understood the way of doing this test. Replace pegs in the upper holes. Tell the operator: Now, following the same method, you will transfer all the pegs in the lower holes. Work as fast as you can. Are you ready? Start! (Start timing). Stop timing when last pair of pegs is entered into holes. 5 6 Scoring Grading Enter time on interview form. Note any temperamental characteristics observed (nervousness, persistence, etc.) Consult grade scale, enter grade on interview form.

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TEST KSDB - PEG BOARD 1 2 Abilities Tested Apparatus required Position Finger dexterity Two-hand co-ordination Peg Board Metal pegs (120), one end painted red Timing clock 3 Candidate sits close to table in good light conditions Board placed with long side facing operator Board must be stable. Pegs are in holes in front of candidate Non-painted end of pegs up 4 Administration Take place of candidate and explain the test. Candidate standing on your left The purpose of this test is to know how fast you can move your fingers. Make a demonstration. Take the two lower pegs in the first two columns, one on each hand; turn the pegs upside down, with an inward rotation, replace pegs in the same hole. Turn all pegs of the two columns. Tell the candidate: When you finish these two columns, you begin to work on the two following columns from upper pegs to lower pegs. Demonstrate by turning pegs of the 3rd and 4th columns. Tell the candidate - When you finish columns by the upper pegs, you begin the following columns by the upper pegs; when you finish columns by the lower pegs, you begin the following columns by lower pegs. Now as a try, ask the candidate to replace all turned pegs in the previous position. Correct any error. Tell the candidate - Now you will turn all these pegs, using the same method. Work as fast as possible. Start! Stop timing when last pair of pegs is turned and entered in holes. 5 Scoring Enter time on interview form. Note any temperamental characteristics observed. (Nervousness, persistence, etc.) Consult grade scale. Enter grade on interview form.

Grading

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TEST KSP 1 2 Abilities Tested Apparatus Visual accuracy and speed KSP Forms Pencils Timing clock 3 4 Position Administration Seat candidate close to table with good light conditions. Give pencil to each candidate Distribute form Tell candidate: Do not turn the page until told to do so. The purpose of this test is to know how fast you can use your eyes On the left-hand side of the figure, you see ten squares numbered from 1 to 10. From each of these squares, a line starts, crosses the rectangle, and stops in one of the ten squares on the right hand side of the figure. You must follow each line in turn, and write the starting numbers into the right hand square where the line stops You must not follow the line with your pencil or fingers. Use only your eyes. It is possible that two lines stop in the same square. In this case you write the first number in the square, and the second number to the right of the same square If understanding is difficult, use a blackboard and make an example. Tell the candidate - Now you will begin to work on this figure as a try. Start! Allow 80 hundredths of a minute (48 seconds), then stop. Check if the candidate has understood the method. Correct any errors. Tell the candidate - Now you turn the page and work on the two figures on page A and B. Do not stop until told to do so. Start! Allow 1 minute then stop test. Have the candidate write her name and date on the back of page B 5 6 Scoring Grading Enter number of correctly filled squares on interview form. Note any temperamental characteristics observed. Consult grade scale - enter grade on interview form.

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Test Scoring and Grading


Scores achieved by the candidates in each of the above tests can be graded on a scale 1 to 5 where 1 represents least and 5 represents the highest grade. The test grade scale and cut off grades for the selection of candidates have been tabulated in the grade scale.

** Cut off Grade

Selection Test KSDA (Time)

Grade 5 4

Timing or Score Less than 75 sec 76 - 80 sec

3**
2 1 KSDB (Time) 5 4

81 - 86 sec
87 - 90 sec Above 90 sec Less than 82 sec 83 - 90 sec

3**
2 1 KSP (Score) 5 4

91 - 100 sec
101 - 105 sec Above 105 sec 17 20 13 16

3**
2 1

10 - 12
7 - 9 Less than 7

In any individual plant, these grades should yield a normal distribution as follows:Grade 5 4 3 2 1 % of Population 10% 20% 40% 20% 10%

G. Induction And Orientation


AAMT program must be deeply concerned not merely with aptitudes, but also with attitudes. The initial induction process for new operators and their indoctrination in UNDP Page 25 of 160 KSA Technopak

their approach to their work are essential in helping to foster the will to perform well.

H. Participation
It is an important principle of AAMT to "put people in the picture" and to encourage them to take part in the planning and programming of their training. The will to learn is strengthened in trainees when they feel they are an active part of the programming of their training rather than the object of it.

I. A Trained Staff For Training


The best results are achieved by a staff, which is carefully selected and given thorough training in the techniques of AAMT. This begins with a detailed understanding of the job to be taught, and is applied with clear-cut methods of instruction in the correct approach and attitude for the trainees with whom they work. The selection criteria and procedures for the Master trainer have been listed separately in the respective document. The Master Trainers are to be trained by a trained AAMT practicener. Further this manual acts as a guideline for reference for the trainers during the implementation of AAMT program.

J. Measurement And Control Of Progress


In addition to having a systematic program with goals to be achieved, it is necessary to: 1. schedule, 2. measure 3. and record work done This is critical in order to control the program and to demonstrate progress to all interest parties. This is accomplished by designing schedules, which guide instructors in planning their daily work with the trainees, and by maintaining records of exercise times, quality levels, performance levels, and other related information. By the use of charted illustrations (Training Curves or graph which is attached in the further pages), trainees see graphically the progress they are making in specific terms and the summarised information provides a measure of the training staff. The records also provide the basis for reporting to management so they are kept fully informed of the status of the program. AAMT is built upon the above principles wholeheartedly supported and understood by all concerned.

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Day 2...
INTRODUCTION
Any program for its success and long term continuity needs a structure. This structure should not only be a result of years of implementation and proven record its efficacy in achieving results only but also should have a defined body which can be referred to while training the instructors as well as trainees.

OBJECTIVE
On completion of this session one should develop understanding on: 1. What is the purpose of Creation of this AAMT Manual? 2. What is the aim of AAMT program? 3. What are the results an organization achieves on successful implementation of the AAMT program?

Day 2 Discussion 1 Discussion 2 (Aims of AAMT)

Purpose of AAMT Manual Ease of Learning Efficient Learning Rapid Learning Retraining Cross Training

20 minutes 160 minutes

Improved Methods Discussion 3 More Successful (Results of AAMT) Learners Reduced Labour Turnover Reduced Make up Cost Improved Quality

60 minutes

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Discussion 1 Time: 20 Minutes BASIC MANUAL FOR TRAINING INSTRUCTORS


SECTION I: INTRODUCTION
A. PURPOSE OF MANUAL
The purpose of this manual is to provide both a guide and a reference for the instructor in learning and applying the Advanced Analytical Methods of Training. The manual contain: 3. A general outline of the principles of AAMT 4. Detailed descriptions of the techniques and procedures, which the instructor should follow in order to achieve the best results in training. Each new instructor should go through each section, one at a time, ask questions about anything which is not absolutely clear and, whenever possible, should practice the technique in the training centre before going on to the next section. Once the instructor has completed the manual, it should be kept available and should be referred to whenever the instructor is in doubt about any procedure or technique. It is most important for each instructor to learn this manual thoroughly and to follow the procedures in the manual accurately and carefully. The success of any training program is the direct result of the instructor's ability to apply effectively the techniques described in this manual.

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Discussion 2
B. AIMS OF AAMT

Time: 160 Minutes

The Advanced Analytical Method of Training has been developed over the last 20 years to provide the easiest, most efficient and most rapid method of training industrial workers. The main aims of AAMT are as follows: 1. Ease of Learning Learning any new job is difficult and requires hard work, concentrated attention, and a will to learn. AAMT helps to make learning less difficult by training a new worker in each aspect of the job, one stage at a time, and by providing constant help and guidance throughout the learning period. At this moment we shall stop and take an analogy form the motor driving class. For those who would have undergone motor driving training and observed the training method, would know how the trainer breaks down the complete driving skill into individual elements like controlling Driving wheel, accelerator control, gear shifting etc. and have the trainee practice on them individually till the trainee develop control over these individual elements. Beside the trainer provides the general knowledge on the other aspects of driving like parts of vehicle, traffic rules etc. The trainer has the trainee combine the above two progressively into completely independent driving. This process leads to an easy and quick learning for the trainee. 2. Efficient Learning AAMT is the most efficient method of training known. Only the correct methods, the correct pace (whenever practical) and co-ordination, and the correct quality and safety procedures are used. The development of correct method is critical at this position. This requires careful study of the good operators, looking at the key handling elements which are critical for 100% performance on quality. The trainer should be open at this moment and should seek the help of supervisors or operators while developing the correct methods. In addition, each trainee follows his own program of training, suited to his own ability, so that he can concentrate his time and attention on those parts of the job, which he needs to practice the most. The training program is kept completely focused on the production requirement. As soon as the trainer receives the requirement of operator for a particular operation, he/she prepares the following documents: 1. Exercise Documents / Method Documents specifying the best practice and targets against them 2. Training course Design UNDP Page 29 of 160 KSA Technopak

3. Training Weeks required In case the requirement of the complete line for a products production is required, the trainer does the following additional jobs: 4. Operation Bulletin 5. Skill grouping 6. Operator Operation allocation after the first week of training on the basis of skill of individual trainee. The above points will be discussed in detailed in further sessions. At this juncture we need to understand that since the starting of the training the operator is kept on the correct method and taken on the exercises relative to product and operations only. This avoids any wastage of trainees time on the unnecessary activities leading to overall efficient training. 3. Rapid Learning With AAMT, new workers are trained to achieve high production and good quality in only about one-third to one-half of the time normally taken. This streamlined learning process helps the trainee to achieve a high level of productivity much sooner than he would otherwise have done. 4. Retraining AAMT is also used to help experienced workers who are having difficulty with the job, or a part of the job. The retraining helps to improve the quality and quantity of their work. Retraining of the trainee requires careful study of the operators sewing & handling methods and comparing with the correct method in order to identify the incorrect elements. The operator is then taken on the exercises which needs to be done to achieve the correct motion pattern and then brought back to the operation 5. Cross-Training When an employee receives the bid for a job in which he is not trained, the AAMT approach eases the transition from the old job to the new, and helps the employee make a full contribution to production sooner. 6. Improved Methods During the preparation of a training course, the job methods are studied in detail, and often new and improved methods are discovered which make the operation easier and reduce the overall cost.

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Discussion 3
C. RESULTS OF AAMT

Time: 60 Minutes

The successful use of AAMT brings many advantages, both to the individual and to the company as a whole. 1. More Successful Learners The speed and effectiveness of training helps the trainee enormously, as he gets more satisfaction from learning the job and develops a personal satisfaction from being able to perform the job to the level of the experienced workers. 2. Reduced Labour Turnover With the old training methods, many of the new employees become discouraged and quit their job even before they achieve production. With AAMT, the training is quicker and easier, and more new employees remain with the company due to the personal interest and motivation given by the training staffs, which greatly reduces the discouragement normally associated with learning a new job.

3. Reduced Makeup Cost The new training methods reduce the high cost of the makeup paid to both learners and experienced operators. 4. Improved Quality The close attention given to quality during training helps to improve the quality of work performed.

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Day 3
INTRODUCTION
Advanced Analytical Method of Training can be used for variety of trade and not only Needle Trade, though in the present scope the discussion will be limited to needle trade. With in needle trade this method can be used for training operators for all the function like cutting, stitching, finishing. What is most important while applying AAMT is the correct understanding of the Basic Principles of AAMT.

OBJECTIVE
On completion of this session one should develop understanding on following basic principles of AAMT: 1. Operation Analysis 2. Separate Course 3. Skill Development 4. Breakdown into parts 5. Spaced learning 6. Rhythm and pace 7. Stamina development 8. Goals and Targets 9. Measurements and Control 10. Individual Program 11. Training Centre 12. Quality Specifications 13. Participation 14. Training of Supervisors 15. Training Instructors

Day 3

Discussion 1 (Basic Principles of AAMT)

Operation Analysis Separate Training Course Skill Development Break Down into Parts Spaced Learning Rhythm and Pace Stamina Build up Goals and Targets Measurement and Controls

240 minutes (to be broken in two sessions of 120 minutes each)

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Individual Program Training Centre Quality Specifications Participation Co-operation of Supervisors Training Instructors

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Discussion 1 Time: 240 Minutes (To broken in two sessions of 120 Minutes each)
SECTION II: BASIC PRINCIPLES OF AAMT
The success of AAMT is based on following a number of principles, which have been found effective over a number of years. The following are the main principles of AAMT:

A. OPERATION ANALYSIS
Each operation and procedure is analysed in detail in order to determine the best methods to use and to discover the skills required for these methods. Detailed studies are required for each job for which an AAMT training course is set up. These are: 1. Overall arrangement and organisation of the work. 2. The specific techniques and skills involved in individual job elements. The studies or job analyses provide the basis upon which the entire training course is founded. The job analysis inputs are most important factors for the achievement of overall objective of training of operators in very less time to 100% performance and quality level. In actual application this requires inputs from the Industrial Engineering in the form of best method. If the I.E. department is not there in the factory, the trainers must do the method study on the best practices, critically evaluate them to discover important sewing and handling methods involved. While doing the method study, the instructor should not only document the existing method, but also look for the improvement potential based on the principle of industrial engineering like: 1. Process Charting 2. Principle of motion economy 3. General Classification of Hand Motions 4. Precision 5. Kinesthetic sense 6. Work space Engineering 7. Ergonomics * refer to Apparel Engineering Module of Master Plato. Following is the format in which the operations are analyzed. As we shall go further we will know the specific techniques on creating them. At the moment we would limit our discussion to its introduction only: UNDP Page 34 of 160 KSA Technopak

EXERCISE DOCUMENTATION

Date: 31-10-07 Instructor: Haidar


TARGET : 0.150 min (9 sec) EXERCISE NO :SX -2

Cuff Rib(Cutting +)Attach COURSE: EXERCISE: 4 T O/L STARTING POSTURE :

ILLUSTRATION

Trainee sit in front of machine with left foot on treadle and right foot on pressure foot lifter.

METHOD
1- The timekeeper start the stop watch. 2- Pick the cuff rib from left side of the table. 3- Pick the panel from right side of the table 4- Place cuff rib and panel under the pressure foot O/L machine. 5- Cut the cuff rib at 1 inch. 6- Attach the panel with cuff rib with the help of O/L machine. 7- Finish the cuff rib cutting and attach. 8- Dispose the panel on the right side of the table. 9-Time keeper stop the stop watch.

m/c

SAFETY:Trainee to ensure needle guard down while doing operation.. Take care of fingure to avoid injuries. QUALITY Panel Alignment should be accurate. SPI according to requirement. Cutting should be even. ERGONOMICS Trainee chair height is such that the machine bed is at elbow level. POINT WASTE 1 4 6 1 3 2 5 Total WEEK

Machine have waste bin for disposal.avoid SKILL DEVELOPED: Attach Cuff Rib with Sleeve ,Straight sewing with oerlock.

MATERIALS NEEDED: 4 T O/L Thread

B. SEPARATE TRAINING COURSE A special training course is designed for each operation to enable the trainee to learn each aspect of the job separately and to develop through progressive stages of training. The process begins with creation of an operation break down sheet, followed by skill grouping, exercise documentation (mentioned above) and training course design.

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OPERATION BREAK DOWN SHEET


SR # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 OPERATIONS Back Moon O/L Cuff Rib( Cutting +) Attach Cuff Rib F/L Main Label on Moon L/S Moon Attach L/S Placket L/S Shoulder O/L Shoulder F/L Bottom Hem F/L Collar Thoka L/S Collar Tape L/S Collar + Placket L/S Armhole O/L Armhole F/L Side seam O/L Side Vent L/S Cuff Thoka L/S Kaaj L/S Button Att.L/S MACHINES B.M 4 T O/L 4 T O/L 3 T F/L S/N S/N S/N 4 T O/L 2 T F/L 3 T F/L S/N S/N S/N 4 T O/L 2 T F/L 4 T O/L S/N S/N S/N S/N 0.13 0.104 0.053 . 0.242 0.6 0.292 0.222 0.247 0.416 0.316 0.037 1.004 0.507 0.765 0.633 0.271 0.233 0.225 0.32 0.75 0.366 0.29 0.32 0.53 0.41 0.075 1.185 0.624 0.91 0.79 0.356 0.31 0.3 SAM 0.18 0.15 0.0916 SAM-to sec 10.8 9 5.496 0 19.2 45 21.96 17.4 19.2 31.8 24.6 4.5 71.1 37.44 54.6 47.4 21.36 18.6 18

TRAINING EXERCISES
S.NO.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

Exercise Code
SX-01 SX-02 SX-03 SX-04 SX-05 SX-06 SX-07 SX-08 SX-09 SX-10 SX-11 SX-12 SX-13 SX-14 SX-15 SX-16 SX-17 SX-18 SX-19

DESCRIPTION
Back Moon O/L Cuff Rib( Cutting +) Attach Cuff Rib F/L Main Label on Moon L/S Moon Attach L/S Placket L/S Shoulder O/L Shoulder F/L Bottom Hem F/L Collar Thoka L/S Collar Tape L/S Collar + Placket L/S Armhole O/L Armhole F/L Side seam O/L Side Vent L/S Cuff Thoka L/S Kaaj L/S Button Att.L/S

M/C 4 T O/L 4 T O/L 3 T F/L S/N S/N S/N 4 T O/L 2 T F/L 3 T F/L S/N S/N S/N 4 T O/L 2 T F/L 4 T O/L S/N S/N S/N S/N

Skill Group
I II III IV V VI II III VII VIII IX

FABRIC / Mock-up
Mock-Up 1.1 Mock-Up 1.2 Mock-Up 1.3 Mock-Up 1.4 Mock-Up 1.5 Mock-Up 1.6 Mock-Up 1.7 Mock-Up 1.8 Mock-Up 1.9 Mock-Up 1.10 Mock-Up 1.11 Mock-Up 1.12 Mock-Up 1.13 Mock-Up 1.14 Mock-Up 1.15 Mock-Up 1.16 Mock-Up 1.17 Mock-Up 1.18 Mock-Up 1.19

PATTERN
Pattern 1.1 Pattern 1.2

TARGET(sec)

10.8 9 5.496 0 19.2

Pattern 1.3 Pattern 1.4

45 21.96 17.4 19.2 31.8 24.6 4.5 71.1 37.44 54.6 47.4 21.36 18.6 18

X XI XII
II XIII XIV XV XVI

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C. SKILL DEVELOPMENT Special exercises are designed to develop individually and progressively the skills required in the job. It is visible in the training course design that the progression of the exercises have been kept in such a way that there is an advancement of the exercise from easier to difficult and in a way that develop the necessary skill and quality in the trainees work needed for the development of skill in operator to perform the job. We would limit our discussion at the time to mere introduction of the topic. The detailed description along with specific exercises is listed in the stages of training and will be discussed subsequently. D. BREAKDOWN INTO PARTS The job is broken down into parts, which the trainee learns separately and gradually combines, as he becomes proficient. The idea is same as mentioned in above except here we are stressing on the importance of break down of the complete job into set of exercises to build operators quality and performance systematically. E. SPACED LEARNING The trainee's activities are programmed in order to provide change of activity and to maintain a high degree of concentration. F. RHYTHM AND PACE The trainee learns to do each part and skill of the job at the 100 percent pace right from the start. G. STAMINA BUILDUP At first the trainee concentrates on skill, methods and pace and practices for only short period of time. Only when he has developed the necessary skill does he start to develop stamina by practising progressively longer tasks. The advancement of activities and guidelines there for is listed in subsequent pages and will be discussed later. H. GOALS AND TARGETS Targets are set for every stage of training. These enable each trainee to know how he is progressing and give him a sense of achievement when he attains them. I. MEASUREMENTS AND CONTROLS UNDP Page 38 of 160 KSA Technopak

The trainee's progress at every stage is measured carefully so that both the trainee and the instructor have an intimate knowledge of progress. Following Formats are used for keeping Measurement and control: 1. Individual Progress Sheet 2. Group Progress Sheet 3. Instructors work sheet for: a. Single Cycle Timings: Capacity study (refer Master Plato) b. Stamina Runs c. D.H.U. at a particular operation 4. Training Curves 5. Quality Specification sheet 6. Training Course Design 7. Exercise Documentation 8. Bundle Diagnosis 9. Bundle by Bundle Follow ups 10. Instructors Loading Sheet. Each of these reports will be discussed in the further sessions. At the moment we want to restrict the discussion to the introduction of these reports stressing the importance of the Measurement and Control. J. INDIVIDUAL PROGRAM Each trainee advances according to his own ability and spends most of his time practising those aspects of the job in which he is weakest. K. TRAINING CENTER Basic skill and knowledge training is carried out in an area separate from production, where trainees can learn in an atmosphere suitable to learning, without disturbance either to or from the normal production unit. L. QUALITY SPECIFICATIONS Detailed quality specifications are worked out for each operation as a basis for training correct quality. Initially as the trainee progress through the basic exercise the quality requirements are provided on the Exercise Documents. But as soon as the operator start doing the Single Cycle Timings, the Quality Specification sheets are prepared and kept as a strict reference against which all the quality expectations are confirmed. A representative quality specification sheet is attached on the next page

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QUALITY SPECIFICATIONS SHEET


Operation No: 2 Approved by: Qual. Specs. By Machine Type: Operation: Clip, turn & iron collar Spec no. Product/Style Ngai shai Walmart Collar turning M/c Specifications Sl # Requirement Variation Allowed 1 Stitches per inch N.A None 2 Type of stitch N.A None 3 Stitch Formation N.A None 4 Skipped Stitch / Broken Stitches N.A None 5 Raw edge or Open Seams N.A None 6 Back Tack N.A None 7 Stitch gauge N.A None 8 Alignment of stripes / checks N.A None 9 Roll/Twist/Pucker/Fullness/Unwanted pleats None None N.A 10 Uniformity of fold N.A 11 Length of Sew off N.A None 12 Width of the seam N.A None 13 Seam allowance N.A None Comments: 1. Collar tip should be trimmed exactly . 2. Collar point should be of equal length and shape. 3. While ironing creases are not allowed. 4. Under collar should not be visible from the top side.

Sketches:
A

Seam Diagram:

Sizes: S A B 17 3/4 2 1/2 M 18 2 1/2 L 18 1/4 2 1/2 XL 18 1/2 2 1/2

Care should be taken that stitches are not ripped while turning.

M. PARTICIPATION
The trainees are encouraged to develop a sense of responsibility and pride in their own progress by participating actively in the administration and planning of their own training activities. It is seen that this is principle of AAMT is missing at quite often. The instructor should be keen to arouse the interest of the trainee in the training process and develop trainees participation in his/her development process.

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N. COOPERATION OF SUPERVISORS
Supervision is encouraged to help with the design of training courses and to work closely with the training program. Their co-operation, particularly in the early stages of installing the training program, is essential to the success of the program. The cooperation of the supervisor is advised to be brought in during various other stages also like setting target, method study, developing quality specifications etc.

O. TRAINING INSTRUCTORS
The most important element in the success of AAMT is the use of full-time instructors who are specially trained to apply the AAMT techniques. AAMT instructors are carefully selected on a structured criterion (listed separately). AAMT along with Master Plato forms the platform on which these instructors are trained.

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Day 4
INTRODUCTION
Techniques refer to specific method in which principles of AAMT are applied to achieve the desired objective. The topic is the most important and its understanding must be clear to all the AAMT participants. The topic technique is divided into three sessions so that its all the aspects are clear to the participants.

OBJECTIVE
On completion of this session one should develop understanding on following techniques of AAMT: 1. What is the outline of training course / how to design a training course or what are the essentials while designing a training course? 2. What do we mean by key points in AAMT? What is its importance? How is it used? 3. Importance and guideline on setting of targets? 4. Quality Training. 5. Inspection Procedures in AAMT. 6. Procedures for fixing repair during training.

Day 4

Discussion 1 (AAMT Techniques)

Outline of Training Course Key Points Targets Quality Training Inspection Procedures Fixing Repairs

240 minutes (to be broken in two sessions of 120 minutes each)

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Discussion 1 Time: 240 Minutes (To broken in two sessions of 120 Minutes each)
SECTION III: AAMT TECHNIQUES
A. OUTLINE OF A TRAINING COURSE
Each training course consists of the following stages: 1. Basic Exercises The first stage of training consists of basic exercises, which are specially designed to train and develop the general skills required for the job. They are used in the first few days of training to develop the background on which to build the more advanced skills. These 1. 2. 3. include the Boards Exercises like: Pin boards ball and tube exercise Needle boards.

Following pages provides the description of the exercises in the Basic Training:

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AAMT EXERCISE METHODOLOGY


Machine: SNLS Exercise: Pin Board (RH y LH) Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the board (see figure). The RH should be positioned over the board, holding the cover open and LH over the holes.

Goal:
90 Seconds

Exercise Number
1 and 2

Illustration:

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. The RH takes three pins from the pin holder and places them in the upper left hole. The RH takes another three pins from pin holder. The apprentice should not take more or less than three pins. The RH takes another three pins from holder and places them in the next hole on the upper row from left to right in the order marked by the illustration. The apprentice will continue filling the holes from left to right in the order marked by the illustration. Once the apprentice has filled the last hole on the upper row, hole #5, he will proceed to fill the second row starting with hole #6 The RH takes another three pins from the holder and places them in the next hole on the second row. The apprentice will continue to fill the holes in the second row with three pins until hole 10 is filled. The apprentice will follow the same procedure until the time is up. The chronometer stops when 90 seconds are over.

NOTE:

Exercise #2 is repeated using the LH, filling the holes on the upper row from right to left within 90 seconds.

SECURITY
Make sure the pins have no needle-like points or rough edges.

QUALITY
Use only RH or LH, depending on the exercise. The pins should not fall off the board. All 50 holes should have three pins each.

ERGONOMICS
The board should be in front of the apprentice in a writing position. The table should be at a comfortable height.

WASTE
N/A

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
The use of fingers to pick up objects of small diameter. 150 identical Pins with 1/16 diameter and 1 length Pin Board. See specifications.

NECESSARY MATERIALS

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AAMT EXERCISE METHODOLOGY


Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Ball and Tube (RH y LH)

Goal:
25 Seconds

Exercise Number
3 and 4

Starting Position:
The apprentice should stand up facing the table at a comfortable height (see figure). The board should be placed in front of the apprentice. The tube should be centralized.

Illustration:

Methodology:
For RH: The 25 balls should be placed on right-hand side and the left-hand side should be empty and covered with perforated cover. The inverse applies for LH. The timekeeper starts the chronometer. With the RH, the apprentice takes one ball from the right-hand side holder and let the ball drop through the tube. Simultaneously, the LH is placed under the tube to catch the ball. The LH will then place the ball through the perforation and into the recipient. At the same time, the RH is picking up another ball. The chronometer stops when the last ball is placed through the perforation.

NOTE:

Exercise #3 is repeated using the LH to conform exercise #4.

SECURITY
Make sure there are no broken balls and that they are all the same size.

QUALITY
Use only RH or LH, depending on the exercise. The balls should not drop to the floor. One should penalize one second for each ball that falls away from the recipient. Take one ball at a time.

ERGONOMICS
Use anti fatigue rug. The board should be centred in front of the apprentice. The table should be at a comfortable height.

WASTE
N/A

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Simultaneous use of hands. Coordination of simultaneous movements.

NECESSARY MATERIALS
25 identical balls 11/16 diameter. Ball and Tube Board. See specifications.

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AAMT EXERCISE METHODOLOGY


Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Needle Board (RH y LH)

Goal:
45 Seconds

Exercise Number
5

Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the table at a comfortable height (see figure). The board should be placed in front of the apprentice. The thread is placed at the point of threading.

Illustration:

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. The thread is taken with the RH. Thread the first needle. Thread the second, third, fourth, and fifth and sixth needles. Stop the chronometer.

SECURITY
Make sure that all the needles have no sharp points and all of the eyes face the same direction. The needle protectors should be firm.

QUALITY
All of the rings and needles are threaded correctly.

ERGONOMICS
The board should be centred in front of the apprentice. The table should be at a comfortable height.

WASTE
N/A

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Threading of needles.

NECESSARY MATERIALS
Needle Board. See specifications. Thread. Scissors.

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2. Job Exercises The job exercises are designed to develop the specific skills required for each particular operation. These exercises are designed so that the trainee practices one thing at a time and progresses gradually from the easier to the more difficult skills. These include the paper sewing exercises which provide the step wise way to develop specific skills regarding sewing. The Paper sewing Exercises are a set of 11 exercises. PS-1 to PS-8 are done on Single Needle Lock Stitch Machines, while PS-8 to PS-11 are done on overlock machines The standardized Exercise and methodologies are on following pages:

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AAMT EXERCISE METHODOLOGY


Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Treadle Control at Maximum Velocity

Goal:
6 Seconds Illustration:

Exercise Number 6
Paper Exercise #1

Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the treadle and the right knee against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine.

START

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed without leaving boundary. Stop at the end of the column with the needle at top position (1 stitch tolerance). Raise the foot and slide the paper to the next column. Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew the second line until the end. Raise the foot and slide paper to the next column. Stop the chronometer when apprentice sets paper on the third column.

END

SECURITY
Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. Use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.

QUALITY
Do not tear paper. The stitch line should remain straight and within the column limits

ERGONOMICS
Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on treadle Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
Throw away used paper. Use paper several times

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Treadle control Straight stitches centred at a 3/8 at maximum velocity. Use of knee lift to elevate machine foot.

NECESSARY MATERIALS
SNLS without thread Paper exercise #1

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AAMT EXERCISE METHODOLOGY


Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Precise Stops at Maximum Velocity

Goal:
5 Seconds

Exercise Number 7
Paper Exercise #2

Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the treadle and the right knee positioned against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine.

Illustration:
START

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed in a straight line. Stop with the treadle when the stop line is reached. Make sure the apprentice has made a complete stop with the needle in the top position. Leave the machines foot up while the apprentice places the paper again. Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Stop the chronometer when apprentice sets paper on the second line.

STOP Excellent Fair

Note: Each cycle includes two lines

SECURITY
Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. Use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.

QUALITY
Do not tear paper. The stitch line should remain straight and without passing the good line

ERGONOMICS
Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on treadle Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
Throw away used paper. Use paper several times

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Exact Stops Straight stitches at maximum velocity. Use of knee lift to elevate machine foot. SNLS without thread Paper exercise #2

NECESSARY MATERIALS

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AAMT EXERCISE METHODOLOGY


Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Straight Stitches at Maximum Velocity

Goal:
10 Seconds

Exercise Number 8
Paper Exercise #3

Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the treadle and the right knee against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine.

Illustration: START

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed in a straight line within boundaries. Stop with the treadle at the end of the rectangle with the needle at the top position. Make sure the stitches do not leave the rectangle. Lift the machines foot and slide paper so that the second dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed in a straight line within boundaries. Stop with the treadle once the apprentice has reached the end of the rectangle, keeping the needle in the top position. Lift the machines foot and slide paper so that the third dotted line lies directly under the needle. The chronometer is stopped once the paper is placed under the third dotted line.

STOP

Note: Each cycle includes two lines

First Cycle

Second Cycle

SECURITY
Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. Use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.

QUALITY
Do not tear paper. The stitch line should remain straight and within boundaries.

ERGONOMICS
Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on treadle Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
Throw away used paper. Use paper several times

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Exact Stops Straight stitches at maximum velocity centred at 1/8 margin. Use of knee lift to elevate machine foot. SNLS without thread Paper exercise #3

NECESSARY MATERIALS

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AAMT EXERCISE METHODOLOGY


Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Change of Direction with Needle Down

Goal:
10 Seconds

Exercise Number 9
Paper Exercise #4

Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the treadle and the right knee against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine.

Illustration:

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed in a straight line so that stitches lie over dotted line. Stop with needle in down position when the apprentice reaches the square. Make sure the stitches do not leave the square. Lift the foot and turn the paper 90 clockwise. Lower machines foot and sew towards Next Square. Stop with needle in down position when the apprentice reaches square. Lift the foot and turn the paper 90 clockwise. Sew at maximum speed in a straight line so that stitches lie over dotted line and stop when the last square is reached. Lift foot and place paper to start second cycle Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Lower machines foot. Stop chronometer when the machines foot is lowered Each cycle contains 3 lines and 2 90 turns.

Note:

SECURITY
Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. Use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.

QUALITY
Do not tear paper. Make turns with needle at down position and within square limits. 1/16 Misalignment with dotted line.

ERGONOMICS
Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on treadle Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
Throw away used paper. Use paper several times

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Exact Stops Straight stitches at maximum velocity. Use of push button to control machines foot. SNLS without thread Paper exercise #4

NECESSARY MATERIALS

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Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Judging Changes in Direction

Goal:
20 Seconds

Exercise Number 10
Paper Exercise #5

Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the treadle and the right knee against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine.

Illustration:

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed in a straight line and within boundaries. Reduce speed to prepare for a direction change. Stop with the needle in the down position. Make sure the apprentice does not leave the boundary area. Lift the machine foot and turn paper. Sew at maximum speed in a straight line and within boundaries. Continue until the apprentice has finished the trajectory. When the end is reached, lift machine foot and slide to next cycle Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Stop the chronometer when the machine foot is placed down.

Note: This exercise includes 7 changes of direction

END
SECURITY
Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. Use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.

QUALITY
Do not tear paper. Make turns with needle at down position and within square limits. 1/16 Misalignment from centre.

ERGONOMICS
Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on treadle Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
Throw away used paper. Use paper several times

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Exact Stops with opposite turns. Straight stitches at maximum velocity. Use of push button to control machines foot. SNLS without thread Paper exercise #5

NECESSARY MATERIALS

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Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Sewing Curve with One Hand

Goal:
6 Seconds

Exercise Number 11
Paper Exercise #6

Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the treadle the right knee against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine.

Illustration:
START

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed following the curved line using only the LH on the paper, turning the wrist. Stop at the end of the line with the needle on the top position. Slide the paper with the LH while the machine foot is at the uppermost position. Place paper under the machine so that the line lies directly under the needle to start the second cycle. The chronometer is stopped when the apprentice is set for the next cycle.

FINISH

SECURITY
Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. Use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.

QUALITY
Do not tear paper. Maintain margin at +/-1/16 with respect to line. Sew without stopping.

ERGONOMICS
Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on treadle Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
Throw away used paper. Use paper several times

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Sewing curved lines at a constant margin. Changing direction without stopping. Use of push button to control machines foot. SNLS without thread Paper exercise #6

NECESSARY MATERIALS

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Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Sewing in Circles

Goal:
14 Seconds

Exercise Number 12
Paper Exercise #7

Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the treadle and the right knee against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine.

Illustration:

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed following the curved line without stopping, turning the paper to form an eight. Use index fingers to pivot paper. Stop at the end with the needle on the top position. Turn and slide the paper while the machine foot is at the uppermost position towards the next cycle. Place paper under the machine so that the line lies directly under the needle. The chronometer is stopped when the apprentice is set for the next cycle.

Refer circle pattern on the sewing paper

SECURITY
Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. Use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.

QUALITY
Do not tear paper. Maintain margin at +/-1/16 with respect to line. Sew without stopping.

ERGONOMICS
Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on treadle Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
Throw away used paper. Use paper several times

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Sewing curved lines at a constant margin. Changing direction without stopping. Use of push button to control machine foot. SNLS without thread Paper exercise #7

NECESSARY MATERIALS

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Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Sewing Curves

Goal:
5 Seconds

Exercise Number 13
Paper Exercise #8

Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the treadle and the right knee against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine.

Illustration:

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed following the curved line without stopping, turning the paper to follow the spaghetti lines. Use index fingers to pivot paper. Stop at the end with the needle on the top position. Turn and slide the paper while the machine foot is on the top position towards the next cycle. Place paper under the machine so that the line lies directly under the needle. The chronometer is stopped when the apprentice is set for the next cycle.

Notes: Take cycle times only on the 6 longest lines. Three cycles on one side and two on the other side of the dashed line.

SECURITY
Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. Use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.

QUALITY
Do not tear paper. Maintain margin at +/-1/16 with respect to line. Sew without stopping.

ERGONOMICS
Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on treadle Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
Throw away used paper. Use paper several times

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Sewing curved lines at a constant margin. Changing direction without stopping. Use of push button to control machine foot. SNLS without thread Paper exercise #8

NECESSARY MATERIALS

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Machine: Exercise:
OL 3TH Sewing Straight Lines

Goal:
10 Seconds Illustration:

Exercise Number 14
Paper Exercise #9

Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with one foot on the speed treadle and the other on the foot lifter treadle. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine.

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the needle. Sew at maximum speed cutting the paper at the straight line without stopping. Remove the paper with the LH when the end is reached. Turn the paper counter clockwise. Place the paper under the needle in order to sew the second side. Sew at maximum speed cutting the paper at the straight line on the second side without stopping. Remove the paper with the LH when the end is reached. Slide the paper out while lifting the machine foot. Place the paper on the same side the apprentice just finished while he lowers the machines foot. The chronometer is stopped when the apprentice is set for the next cycle.

Notes:

Cut with a knife over marked line.

SECURITY
Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle and knife at all times. Use safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.

QUALITY
Do not tear paper. Maintain margin at +/-1/16 with respect to line. Sew without stopping.

ERGONOMICS
Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on treadle Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
Throw away used paper. Use paper several times

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Sewing a straight line at maximum speed. Use of a knife for straight cuts. Use of push button to control machines foot. OL 3TH with knife and without thread Paper exercise #9

NECESSARY MATERIALS

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Machine: Exercise:
OL 3TH Sewing Straight Lines with Curves

Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with one foot on the speed treadle and the other on the foot lifter treadle. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine.

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the needle. Sew at maximum speed cutting the paper over the line on all four sides without stopping. Remove paper while lifting machines foot. Turn the paper counter clockwise and place to start the second cycle. The timekeeper stops the chronometer when the machines foot is lowered for the second cycle.

Notes: Cut with a knife over marked line. Lower the machines RPM at the curves, but do not come to a complete stop.

SECURITY
Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. Use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.

QUALITY
Do not tear paper. Maintain margin at +/-1/16 with respect to line. Sew without stopping.

ERGONOMICS
Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on treadle Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
Throw away used paper. Use paper several times

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Sewing long lines without stopping. Sewing straight and curved lines. Use of a knife for straight cuts. Use of push button to control machines foot. OL 3TH with knife without thread Paper exercise #11

NECESSARY MATERIALS

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Machine: Exercise:
OL 3TH Sewing Straight Lines with Curves

Goal:
15 Seconds

Exercise Number 16
Paper Exercise #11

Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with one foot on the speed treadle and the other on the foot lifter treadle. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine.

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the needle. Sew at maximum speed cutting the paper over the line on all four sides without stopping. Remove paper while lifting machines foot. Turn the paper counter clockwise and place to start the second cycle. The timekeeper stops the chronometer when the machines foot is lowered for the second cycle.

Notes: Cut with a knife over marked line. Lower the machines RPM at the curves, but do not come to a complete stop.

SECURITY
Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. Use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.

QUALITY
Do not tear paper. Maintain margin at +/-1/16 with respect to line. Sew without stopping.

ERGONOMICS
Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on pedal Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
Throw away used paper. Use paper several times

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Sewing long lines without stopping. Sewing straight and curved lines. Use of a knife for straight cuts. Use of push button to control machines foot. OL 3TH with knife without thread Paper exercise #11

NECESSARY MATERIALS

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3. Parts of the Job The job is broken down into parts that are practised separately and then combined gradually as the trainee becomes proficient at each part. These include the Machine Exercises and Fabric Exercises as standard Exercises. These exercises are included in the following pages: Some other examples of this stage of training is breaking of the complex operations which may involve straight and curve stitches into individual types and practicing individual types and combining them progressively into a complete operation.

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Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Cleaning the Machine

Goal:
35 Seconds Illustration:

Exercise Number 17

Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the treadle and the right knee against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine.

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pass a cloth through all exposed parts of the machine to remove dust, thread, and lubricant. Incline machines head away from body. Remove bobbin cover to expose reel. Remove reel and clean with a brush. Remove loose thread from feed dogs and any parts within reach. Lower machines head and dust work table with cloth. Place a piece of material under machines foot.

SECURITY
Be careful of sharp edges outside and within the machine. Maintain fingers away machines head while raising and lowering head. Use glasses. Make sure machine is turned off. Remove all garments from work area to avoid any unnecessary soilage.

QUALITY
Machine should be free from thread and dirt.

ERGONOMICS
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
N/A

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Daily procedure to clean and upkeep machine.

NECESSARY MATERIALS
SNLS Cloth Material to place under foot Brush

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Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Threading Machine

Goal:
40 Seconds

Exercise Number 18

Starting Position:
Machine with thread cones on thread holder.

Illustration:

Methodology:
Thread machine through all appropriate places from thread cone to the eye of the needle.

Notes: Instructor must make sure the apprentice is using the correct method to thread the needle. The apprentice must understand that if the needle is not threaded correctly, it will not sew. The machines threading should be the first thing checked when the operator is experiencing problems with tensions and/or skip stitches.

SECURITY
Exercise caution to avoid any pin pricks. Machine in OFF position, when not in use Feet off the treadle.

QUALITY
Machine should be threaded correctly, sewing a few stitches.

ERGONOMICS
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
N/A

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Knowledge of threading a machine.

NECESSARY MATERIALS
SNLS 1 thread cone

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Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Changing of Bobbin

Goal:
12 Seconds

Exercise Number 19

Starting Position:
A full bobbin located in the bobbin winder and an empty bobbin in the machine. The needle is in the up position and correctly threaded.

Illustration:

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Remove bobbin from machine with LH. Simultaneously, remove full bobbin from winder with RH. Invert bobbin case to release bobbin. Place empty bobbin on winder, take thread from cone and begin wrapping thread around bobbin. Place full bobbin in bobbin case and thread properly. Insert bobbin case into machine making sure the bobbin case snaps into position. Turn hand wheel to draw the bobbin thread through the needle plate. Thread machine through all appropriate places from thread cone to the eye of the needle.

Notes: Instructor must make sure the apprentice is using the correct method to thread the needle. The apprentice must understand that if the needle is not threaded correctly, it will not sew. The machines threading should be the first thing checked when the operator is experiencing problems.

SECURITY
Machine in off position.

QUALITY
The bobbins thread should exit the plate and the winder should thread the empty bobbin evenly and correctly.

ERGONOMICS
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
Use only the quantity of thread needed.

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
The changing of bobbins.

NECESSARY MATERIALS
SNLS 2 thread cones 2 bobbins.

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EXERCISE METHODOLOGY
Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Change Needle

Goal:
8 Seconds

Exercise Number 20

Starting Position:
Needle in the machine. New needle and screwdriver lying on the table next to the machine.

Illustration:

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Take the screwdriver, loosen screw by turning anticlockwise, and remove needle from the machine as seen on the first illustration. Without removing screwdriver from the machine, place new needle in the machine correctly (scarf facing right) and tighten screw clock-wise to secure needle in place.

After replacing the needle, always verify the following: 1. The new needle is always sharp, straight, and situated at its highest point. 2. Review the needles eye alignment to make sure the needle is not facing the opposite direction (backwards). 3. Turn the hand wheel to make sure the needle is working safely. The needle should always be situated in the centre in relation to the hole in the plate without any obstructions. 4. Check that the screw is tight and that the needle is not loose.

The timekeeper stops the chronometer when the apprentice tightens the screw.

SECURITY
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. The old needle should be disposed of correctly.

QUALITY
The needle must be correctly placed in the needle bar.

ERGONOMICS
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
Old needle.

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
The changing of a needle.

NECESSARY MATERIALS
SNLS 1 new needle 1 screw driver

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EXERCISE METHODOLOGY
Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Changing Colour of the Thread

Goal:
10 Seconds Illustration:

Exercise Number 21

Starting Position:
Original colour thread cone on the cone holder. The different colour cone placed on the table.

Methodology
Cut thread from original cone. Remove old cone from holder and replace with new cone. Tie thread of new cone to thread of the old cone. Remove thread from needle and pull the new colour thread through until the knot is through all relevant guides. Do not pull knot through the needle eye as it may result in damage to the needle.

SECURITY
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle.

QUALITY
The thread must follow all guides.

ERGONOMICS
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
N/A.

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
The changing of thread.

NECESSARY MATERIALS
SNLS 2 thread cones. 1 pair of scissors.

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EXERCISE METHODOLOGY
Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Sewing 6x 6 Sewing off the material.

Goal:
15 Sec.

Exercise Number 22
Fabric Exercise #1

Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the treadle and the right knee against the knee lift. Place material close to the apprentice.

Illustration:

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH simultaneously. Move fabric to the front, and lift machine foot. Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a margin. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the first edge, respecting the margin of ". Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads. Lift machine foot and turn fabric counter clockwise. Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a margin. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the second edge, respecting the margin of ". Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads. Lift machine foot. Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a margin. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the third edge, respecting the margin of ". Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads. Lift machine foot and turn cloth counter clockwise. Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a margin. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the fourth edge, respecting the margin of ". Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads. Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH and cut threads. Timekeeper stops the chronometer.

SECURITY
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle.

QUALITY
Maintain a margin of (+-1/16).

ERGONOMICS
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
Use fabric various times while practicing.

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Sewing in a straight line at maximum speed. Treadle control. Consistency in margins. SNLS 2 thread cone 2 bobbins. 6 X 6 fabric Scissors

NECESSARY MATERIALS

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Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Sewing 6x 6 Staying Within Material.

Goal:
18 Sec.

Exercise Number 23
Fabric Exercise #2

Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the treadle and the right knee against the knee lift. Place material close to the apprentice.

Illustration:

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH simultaneously. Move fabric to the front, and lift machine foot. Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a margin. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the first edge, respecting the margin of " (+-1/16). Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly from the edge. Lift machine foot and turn fabric counter clockwise. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the second edge, respecting the margin of (+-1/16"). Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly from the edge. Lift machine foot and turn fabric counter clockwise. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the third edge, respecting the margin of (+-1/16"). Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly from the edge. Lift machine foot and turn cloth counter clockwise. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the fourth edge, respecting the margin of (+-1/16"). Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads. Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH and cut threads. Timekeeper stops the chronometer.

SECURITY
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle.

QUALITY
Maintain a margin of (+-1/16).

ERGONOMICS
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
Use fabric various times while practicing.

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Sewing in a straight line at maximum speed. Treadle control. Consistency in margins. Exact stops. SNLS 2 thread cone 2 bobbins. 6 X 6 fabric Scissors

NECESSARY MATERIALS

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EXERCISE METHODOLOGY
Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Sew 3 Sides 6x 12

Goal:
21 Sec. Illustration:

Exercise Number 24
Fabric Exercise #3

Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the treadle and the right knee against the knee lift. Place fabric close to the operator.

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Take corners of fabric with both hands. Join the corners of the fabric. Lift machine foot. Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a margin. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the first edge, respecting the margin of " (+-1/16). Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly from the edge. Lift machine foot and turn fabric counter clockwise. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the second edge, respecting the margin of (+-1/16"). Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly from the edge. Lift machine foot and turn fabric counter clockwise. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the third edge, respecting the margin of (+-1/16"). Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads. Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH and cut threads. Timekeeper stops the chronometer.

SECURITY
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.

QUALITY
Maintain a margin of (+-1/16).

ERGONOMICS
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
Use fabric various times while practicing.

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Sewing in a straight line at maximum speed. Treadle control. Consistency in margins. Exact stops. Joining and handling of large pieces SNLS 2 thread cone 2 bobbins. 6 X 6 fabric Scissors

NECESSARY MATERIALS

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Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Sew Over 3 Sides 6x 12

Goal:
14 Sec.

Exercise Number 25
Fabric Exercise #4

Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the treadle and the right knee against the knee lift. Place fabric close to the operator.

Illustration:

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Take corners of fabric with both hands. Lift machine foot. Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a margin. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the first edge, respecting the margin of " (+-1/16). Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly from the edge. Lift machine foot and turn fabric counter clockwise with LH. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the second edge, respecting the margin of (+-1/16"). Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly from the edge. Lift machine foot and turn fabric counter clockwise with LH. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the third edge, respecting the margin of (+-1/16"). Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads. Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH and cut threads. Timekeeper stops the chronometer.

SECURITY
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.

QUALITY
Maintain a margin of (+-1/16).

ERGONOMICS
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
Use fabric various times while practicing.

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Sewing in a straight line at maximum speed. Treadle control. Consistency in margins. Exact stops. Joining and handling of large pieces SNLS 2 thread cone 2 bobbins. 6 X 6 fabric Scissors

NECESSARY MATERIALS

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EXERCISE METHODOLOGY
Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Back tack 12 x 6

Goal:
15 Sec. Illustration:

Exercise Number 25
Fabric Exercise # 6

Starting Position:
Place the fabric on your lap, pick up using both hands, let both feet be on the treadle.

1 A 2 B 3 C 4 5 SKETCH - 1 SKETCH - 2

Methodology:
This exercise is carried on the fabric which comes from the exercise 12x6 top stitches. Initial markings have to be done on the fabric for back tacking. For this, fold the given fabric, such that both edges coincide and crease at the centre. Now fold on the folded fabric, such that edges coincide & crease. When the folded fabric is opened, it looks as indicated in sketch [2]. Now you see three crease lines at A,B,C. Mark 3/8" above and creased line.(A).Repeat above said step for 'B' and 'C'. The fabric is ready for back tacking. Places at which back tacking have to be carried out are indicated in sketch 4. Back tack at point -1 and sew till point-2 and at point-2 back tack and sew till -3 and at point-4 back tack and sew till point-5 back tack & stop. Now the fabric should be as shown in sketch [5]. At point-5 stop and cut the thread using clipper and dispose.

1 2 Back tack 3 4 5

SECURITY
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.

QUALITY
Line sewn should be straight and length of back tacking should be with in the boundary with an allowance of one stitch on either side, i.e. half a stitch outside or inside the band is ok, no more

ERGONOMICS
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
Use fabric various times while practicing.

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Sewing in a straight line at maximum speed. Treadle control. Cutting, Disposing and Stacking. Exact stops. Back tacking only within the boundary marked SNLS Bobbin Thread 12 X 6 fabric Scissors

NECESSARY MATERIALS

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EXERCISE METHODOLOGY
Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Baste 6 x 6 in Chain

Goal:
30 Sec.

Exercise Number 26
Fabric Exercise # 7

Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the treadle and the right knee against the knee lift. Place fabric close to the operator.

Illustration:

Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Take fabric with LH. Fold fabric lightly on one side. Move towards machine foot. Lift machine foot. Verify the fold is . Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a margin. Lower machine foot. Sew fabric with rhythm guiding it with the RH while the LH takes another fabric. Repeat the previous instructions until 5 pieces are sewn. Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH and cut threads. Timekeeper stops the chronometer.

SECURITY
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.

QUALITY
Maintain a margin of (+-1/16).

ERGONOMICS
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

WASTE
Use fabric various times while practicing.

ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Sewing in a straight line at maximum speed. Treadle control. Consistency in margins. Exact stops. Joining and handling of large pieces SNLS 2 thread cone 2 bobbins. 6 X 6 fabric Scissors

NECESSARY MATERIALS

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4. Single Cycle The single cycle is a crucial stage in training. This activity combines all the parts of the job and includes all the skills required of a good operator. At this stage of training, trainee has developed required and skills of all individual elements (including any specialized handling method) with quality which he/she combine and start performing the complete cycle. This stage marks the beginning of doing the capacity studies on the trainees by the trainer. The capacities are calculated on the prescribed format which is attached on the next page. Following things are calculated in a capacity study: 1. Average Cycle Time 2. Capacity Percentage or Single Cycle Percentage 3. Actual Minutes 4. Capacity per hour of the operators. A capacity percentage of the operators logically mean the status of the operator compared to a 100% operator in terms of percentage. Capacity % is calculated as per below equation: Capacity % = B.M. / ACT X 100 Capacity in pieces per hour is calculated as 60/ACT The starting of the single Cycle stage will be discussed in the Advancement of Activities. Single Cycle also marks the beginning of the plotting of the training curve. Training curves will be discussed in the subsequent sessions of Measurements in AAMT 5. Stamina Build-up When a trainee has achieved target time and quality on the parts of the job and the single cycle or equivalent, he has acquired the necessary skills for the job. But he needs to develop stamina so that he can maintain the correct rhythm and pace for longer and longer periods. This development of stamina is accomplished by gradually increasing the length of time the trainee spends on the combination of exercises that comprise his job. The training course is designed in these separate stages, but during training the exercises are overlapped and a trainee will be doing exercises from several stages on any one day. UNDP Page 71 of 160 KSA Technopak

The starting of the single Cycle stage will be discussed in the Advancement of Activities. The instructor starts taking the performance of the operator, and finding out the capacity gap of the trainee. The format which is used for recording of this data is same on which single cycle studies are also done. The format is attached on the next page.

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B. KEY POINTS
One of the most important concepts of AAMT is that trainees are trained right from the start in the methods used by the highly skilled workers. In order to do this, each job is studied carefully before training starts so that the instructor is familiar with the key points of the job. These key points are essential for successful performance of the job. The key points tell what methods are used to perform the job in order to ensure good quality, minimise waste, ensure safety while keeping in mind ergonomics, and maintain good housekeeping. The key points tell how the main steps in the operation (parts of the job) are carried out and why. It is most important that the instructor be thoroughly familiar with the 6 key points and that she/he uses them. A trainee will only do well if he follows these points carefully. The instructor uses the 6 key points (Method, Quality, Waste, Safety, Ergonomics, & Housekeeping) at two separate stages in training: 1. Demonstrating an Exercise When an instructor first demonstrates a new exercise to a trainee, he would show what is required and stop to point out the 6 key points while demonstrating. When the trainee watches a demonstration of an exercise, he cannot see everything that the instructor is doing; but, if he watches the demonstration and understands the 6 key points, he should be able to perform the exercise successfully himself. 2. Watching a Trainee at Work Much of a good instructor's time is spent watching the trainee while he is working. It is important for the instructor to study each trainee frequently to check that he is still following the key points exactly and to make sure that he is not making any extra motions or incorrect movements. It is relatively simple to correct a poor method in the first few days; but, once the poor method has become a habit, it is more difficult to change. The time spent by an instructor watching a trainee is very valuable. If a bad method is being used, it can be corrected immediately before it results either in bad quality work, bad habits, or an accident. Any time that a trainee is using different methods or using extra motions, the instructor should stop him immediately, correct his faults, and keep checking back to see that the trainee is continuing to follow the 6 key points and use the correct methods. The understanding and study of these 6 key points are very important from instructors point of view. The job analysis should also involve a thorough study of these 6 Key points by instructors.

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* The method / exercise documentation shown on the previous pages, shows the use of six key points in the framing of method/exercise documents

C. TARGETS
Each exercise has a specific target either in time, in production, or quality. The target is set at the level of the skilled operator and the trainee continues to practice each exercise until he achieves the target for a predetermined period of time. The targets can of the basic and job exercises are standardized. Target for any new exercise developed in the training course design, can be set by doing time study with an experienced operator. The target is important to the trainee because it gives him a goal to work toward. As the trainee times himself, he can see his own progress and improvement and can see himself getting nearer and nearer the target. Once he reaches the target, he feels a sense of achievement because he can perform that part of the job or that exercise as well as an experienced worker. For the instructor, the target provides an excellent means of judging each trainee's progress. When a trainee is improving his times and getting closer to the target, the instructor knows that progress is good. When a trainee's times do not improve, the instructor knows that the trainee needs attention and help on that part of the job. The trainee's desire to reach the target can be one of the strongest incentives to progress during the first few weeks of training, but this will only be a strong incentive if the trainee understands the importance of the target and believes the target is achievable. It is essential for the instructor to: 1. Explain the Target Each trainee must understand that the target is set at the level of the skilled operators, and that when he reaches the target he is doing that particular exercise as well as the most experienced workers. 2. Stress the Importance of Targets What the instructor thinks and says influences every trainee very much. The instructor can make the trainees realise the importance of targets by commenting frequently on the trainee's times and encouraging him to do just a little better in order to reach the target. Whenever the trainee reaches a target, the instructor should praise him for his accomplishment and show that he is pleased with the achievement. 3. Keep a Close Check on Quality UNDP Page 75 of 160 KSA Technopak

The target is only achieved when the trainee can do the exercise in the right time.

D. QUALITY TRAINING
The purpose of the training program is to train operators to attain high speed and production together with good quality work. Good quality comes from the consistent use of correct methods, and it is good instruction on methods, which is the secret of good quality work. The steps, which should be taken to achieve good quality, are as follows: 1. Initial Instruction Point out the key points of methods and quality to the trainee and be sure that he understands them.

2. Trainee Practice When the trainee first practices an exercise, the instructor should watch his methods very closely and correct any incorrect methods immediately. The trainee should not be timed or be permitted to start timing himself until he is doing the exercise correctly. Once timing starts, the instructor should still keep a close watch on methods; and no time should be allowed unless the quality is correct. 3. Quality Checking Whenever the instructor finds any faulty work, or whenever defects are found by other inspections or operations, the instructor should: a. Look at the faulty work or record to determine what mistakes the trainee is making. b. Tell the trainee not just what he is doing wrong, but what he must do to perform the work correctly. 4. Methods Checking The best way for an instructor to ensure good quality is by watching the trainee while he is working, by inspecting some of his work, and by correcting any faults immediately. It is much easier and more effective to correct a fault when it happens, than to try and change a trainee's methods after he has turned out a quantity of poor work. In order to become skilled at this part of training, the instructor should take every opportunity to stand and watch each trainee at work, in order to detect and stop immediately any faults in method.

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E. INSPECTION PROCEDURES
The close inspection of a trainee's work is important in order to discover as soon as possible any faults that he may be making and, in the early stages of training, to prevent bad work from going through the production department. Each trainee will therefore go through the following stages of inspection: 1. 100% Inspection Initially the instructor will inspect 100% of the work done by the trainees until the trainee is doing the work correctly. 2. Partial Inspection As soon as the instructor considers that the trainee's quality is satisfactory, he will go through the clearance bundle procedure. This means that the instructor will ask the operator to sew a bundle to be inspected 100% by the instructor, the supervisor and an SQC representative. The operator should sew the bundle and fix any mistakes he makes. When the operator feels that the bundle is sewn properly, he gives it to the instructor. The instructor checks the bundle completely. If there is still a defect in the bundle, the instructor tells the operator that they will try for another clearance bundle the next day. If the bundle is free of defects, the instructor takes it to an SQC representative who checks it completely. If the SQC representative feels the bundle is 100% quality, he signs the clearance bundle certificate and the instructor takes the bundle to the operator's supervisor. The supervisor also signs the clearance bundle certificate. After this procedure is completed, the instructor may randomly inspect the operator's work instead of checking it 100%. This procedure ensures agreement between all departments that the operator has been taught how to recognise and produce good quality work. 3. Occasional Checks Once the trainee's work is going satisfactorily through the normal inspection procedures, the instructor should check random bundles, preferably at the trainee's work place, to ensure that the trainee is keeping up the correct methods and quality.

F. FIXING REPAIRS
Throughout the training period it is the responsibility of the trainee to fix his own repairs. The instructor should show the trainee the easiest and best way to fix repairs and should check to see that they are being done correctly. In the early stages of training the instructor should help the trainee with some of the repairs in order to prevent the trainee from getting discouraged and to ensure that the work is not held up for too long a time. Repairs found by production inspectors should be brought back to the instructor, not to the trainees. This will give the instructor a chance to see what faults are being UNDP Page 77 of 160 KSA Technopak

made so he can correct the trainee. The instructor will program the time when the trainee fixes repairs to fit in with the trainee's other work. It is often advisable to have the trainee time himself while he fixes repairs to help him build up his speed on repairs. The trainee should soon become aware of his own mistakes when he makes them and should repair his own mistakes as soon as possible. The procedure for a trainee to repair the mistakes, which he finds, himself are as follows: 1. Single Cycle - The trainee should complete the activity and then repair his mistakes. 2. Bundle Runs & Stamina Runs - The trainee should repair his mistakes as he goes and should not stop the clock for repairs. When a trainee has achieved the required standards for his operation, he is presented with a training certificate to acknowledge his achievement in completing the training course.

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Day 5
OBJECTIVE
On completion of this session one should develop understanding on following techniques of AAMT: 7. What do we mean by programming? What is its importance and how is the trainee programmed? 8. Participation of trainee in his/her training its importance and method to develop it. 9. Induction of a new trainee. 10. Retraining techniques 11. Job Knowledge Training 12. Demonstrating Techniques 13. Guidelines on working with Operator Trainees

Day 5

Discussion 1 (AAMT Techniques)

Programming Participation A New Trainee Retraining Techniques Job Knowledge Training Demonstrating Techniques Working with Operators

240 minutes (to be broken in two sessions of 120 minutes each)

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Discussion 1 Time: 240 Minutes (To broken into sessions of 120 Minutes each)
A. PROGRAMMING
The choice of exercises for each trainee's daily program of work is of vital importance to the successful progress of training. Each trainee should be programmed individually so that he has the maximum of practice on the exercises on which he is weakest and so that he progresses at the fastest rate of which he is capable. The following points should be followed when programming a trainee's work: 1. Basic Training The first step in the training program is to have the operator complete a program of basic training for the particular type of machine her job requires. The basic training is covered in detail. The basic training should be viewed as both training and additional screening of the new employees. The new hires should be required to meet the time and quality targets for their final basic exercise. If they cannot, they should not be allowed to go onto the production job in question. The main purpose of the basic training courses is to provide a step-by-step procedure for taking a new employee through the first several days of training. Upon completion of the basic training course, the new operator should be familiar with the basic machine control and maintenance of her particular machine, and she will have demonstrated her ability on the general sewing and handling skills. It will then be necessary to refine these general skills to the specific requirements of the actual job assignment. The following present some general guidelines in the administration of the basic training courses. - The trainee should systematically advance through dexterity exercises, paper sewing, and machine maintenance exercises regardless of target achievement. - All paper-sewing exercises will be done on the specially prepared single needle /lockstitch machine even if the operator is going on a different type of machine. This will provide the initial exposure to an industrial power machine. The operator will time herself on the basic exercises and record her results on the Daily Exercise form. The instructor should verify the timings on any exercise before it is considered complete. UNDP Page 80 of 160 KSA Technopak

*refer to representative training course design attached initially and the annexure for the Basic exercises. 2. Change of Activity During the early stages of training (basic exercises, job exercises, parts exercises and single cycle), the trainee should spend only about 20 minutes at a time on each exercise. After about 30 minutes, the trainee usually loses concentration and tends to become fatigues on one exercise. It is important to select exercises so that a trainee has as much change of activity as possible. A re-trainee does not normally need as much change of activity as a trainee because the re-trainee has often developed already many of the feels and motions required in the job. A re-trainee can, therefore, spend longer periods of time on the activity, although the instructor should be ready to change the program as soon as there are any signs of fatigue or loss of concentration. During the later stages of training, it is normally helpful to vary long exercises with short one. The short exercises provide a break from the long ones. At all times, the instructor should keep checking each trainee's progress on the exercises to make sure he is not spending too long on any one exercise. A trainee will normally make much more progress on an exercise in two separate half-hour sessions than he will in one continuous one-hour session. 3. Rate of Progress The training course is made up of a series of exercises to develop and practice each aspect of the job, and the trainee should achieve target on every part of the course. However, the trainee should not wait to achieve target on one stage before starting the next. Once he is making good progress on one stage, he can then start the next stage although he must complete the exercise on the early stage. As a general guide, the trainee can progress to a later stage when he is achieving less than two times target on the earlier stage. If he is taking more than three times target on an exercise, it is normally a sign that he has progressed too fast and should be brought back to practice an earlier stage.

4. Individual Programming The instructor selects the exercises to be done by the trainee in advance; during the early stages of training, the trainee assists in the individual daily program. Each trainee's program should depend on how well he does on an exercise. If a trainee UNDP Page 81 of 160 KSA Technopak

continues to improve on an exercise and improves on the previous best time, then he can proceed. If he does not improve, he should either repeat the same exercise after a break or a change of activity - or should go back to an earlier stage. This is a simple rule; and it is most important for each trainee to understand, as soon as possible, that if he improves he can move ahead and that if he does not improve he goes back to an earlier related stage. In this way, after the first few days, the program of each trainee depends entirely on this own performance at each session during the day. It is very useful for the trainee and instructor together to choose an intermediate target to aim for at each practice session. This target should be better than the previous best time (previous best production on the stamina exercises) and should be used as the definite aim for the trainee for that session. If the trainee achieves the intermediate target, then he can move ahead. If he does not achieve it, then he can either try again or move back to an earlier exercise.

5. Quality The programming of the trainee does not depend only on the times that he achieves. The instructor must keep a close check on the quality of the trainee's work and on the methods that he is using. Even if the trainee's times are improving, the trainee should not be moved forward to a more advanced stage unless his methods and quality are satisfactory. When the trainee is having difficulty with quality, it is sometimes helpful to use untimed runs when the trainee concentrates on perfect quality followed by timed runs to combine quality with speed. Un-timed runs should not be used more than necessary, because the fact that a trainee can produce good quality work at a slow pace does not necessarily help him to do good work at the correct pace. The main use of un-timed runs is to restore the trainee's confidence in his own ability to produce good quality work. 6. General Program of Development The progress of each operator is an individual and highly person affair. No two operators are alike, and no two will develop at exactly the same rate. However, as a general guide to what can be expected, the following is presented: a. Basic and Job Related Skill Exercises These will probably occupy the trainee's first three to five days. During this stage, the trainee will not be producing actual garments. b. Parts of Job and Single Garment Exercises

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These will generally begin on days three to five. At this point, the trainee will begin to produce stitched swatches, but the main emphasis will not be on quantity but rather on skill development. c. Multiple Cycle and Stamina Exercises These will usually being during the second training week; and, at this point, the trainee should begin to make a positive production contribution. The production department must be completely aware that: - The trainee may not produce anything during the first week. - The trainee may produce very little during the second week. - Lack of significant production during these first two weeks does not necessarily constitute lack of training progress.

7. Multiple Job Programming Training for operators who are required to perform multiple jobs, in the case of modules or complex operations, should be programmed in the following manner: - Complete exercises and teaching method for one job. - Once the trainee's Single Cycle on the first job is 100% introduce the second job. - The Trainee should be taught the exercises & methods for the second job OffStandard, while continuing stamina build-up for the first job On-Standard. - Once 50% Single Cycle is achieved on the second job, the trainee should perform the stamina build-up exercises On-Standard for both jobs. - The third, fourth, etc. jobs should be introduced in this manner. - Once multiple jobs are being performed, Single Cycling at 100% on each, Stamina Build-up exercises should reflect how work is done on the production floor. i.e. 2-hour of Job 1, then switch to Job 2 for 3 hour, etc. OR Jobs 1 & 2 is performed back & forth throughout the day. Progression toward the actual production quota becomes a valid measuring device only after the third to fourth week of training.

B. PARTICIPATION
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Nobody will learn anything unless he wants to learn. One of the best ways to encourage a trainee to want to learn is to encourage his understanding of the training course and his participation in planning and controlling his own training activities. This does not mean that a trainee should do precisely what he feels like doing; but the instructor, right from the start, should take pains to explain why the trainee is doing each exercise, so that the trainee understands fully what he is doing and the reason for it. As soon as possible, the trainee should be doing as much she can do her self, so that she develops a sense of responsibility for his own training program and his own progress. Participation by the trainees in their own program is achieved in the following ways: 1. Timing Exercises and Recording Times Right from the start, the trainee should time himself on his exercises and enter his own times on the work sheet provided. Course design will influence this. 2. Choosing Intermediate Targets The trainee should be guided by the instructor to choose an intermediate target to aim for in each session, in the early stages of training. 3. Programming The instructor should explain carefully to the trainee why he is doing each exercise and should gradually get the trainee to participate in selecting for himself which exercise he should do next. 4. Daily Review Session At the end of each day, the instructor should review the day's progress with each trainee. He should praise the improvements, point out the exercises, which have not improved, and should guide the trainee on what to start on the next shift.

C. A NEW TRAINEE
There are three items an instructor should concern himself or herself with when a new trainee is involved: Preparing, First day, and Cross-Training. Preparing Before a new trainee comes to the training centre, the instructor should make sure that he is familiar with the training course and that everything is ready for the trainee. The instructor in preparing for a new trainee should take the following steps: UNDP Page 84 of 160 KSA Technopak

1. Personnel Check to find out the employee's name and have a member of the training staff meet him before he actually starts training. 2. Training Course Review the training course, exercises, and key points to be sure that you are familiar with them. Practice any exercise that you are not sure of being able to demonstrate. It is essential that the instructor be proficient in the skills being taught. 3. Training Equipment Check that all the necessary training equipment, devices and machines are available. 4. Work Place Make a complete check of the work place including training centre and production are (if applicable). 5. Program Review the first day's program of exercises. 6. Records Prepare the Training Course Outline, Training Graph, and Progress Summary for each trainee. First Day During a new trainee's first day, the instructor should do the following: 1. Explain how the training will work. - Involves their participation. - Will have targets to reach and an estimated training time. - Each person is different, some learn quickly, others take a little longer, but it doesn't matter if the same results are attained. 2. Introduce them to the other instructors, trainees, and the Department Supervisor they will be working with. 3. Give them a tour of the training centre and the department they will be working in. UNDP Page 85 of 160 KSA Technopak

Cross Training Any employee transferring jobs should be trained properly. AAMT eases the transitions from the old job to the new, and helps the employee make a full contribution to production sooner. It should not be difficult to "sell" this idea to employees, since they can easily see the advantages of having some time to learn new skills before starting the new job. However, several things need to be taken care of before starting the program. 1. Agree on the cross-trainee's pay during and after training. 2. Make sure that there is enough equipment and materials available for the crosstrainees to practice (they will be less patient than new trainees if they do not have work). 3. Explain to the cross-trainee, in detail, what the training will be like, how long it will be, and what is expected of his/her performance. 4. Explain to the cross-trainee the advantages of being able to perform more than one operation. Will be less affected by lay-offs, since he/she can be transferred to another job. Will possibly receive higher pay. Better job security. Higher job satisfaction.

D. RETRAINING TECHNIQUES
There are two main differences between the conduct of a training course and a retraining course. The first is that the re-trainee does not go through the whole training course, but only those exercises, which affect quality, safety, production or housekeeping. The main difference is in the handling of a re-trainee during training. He is usually an experienced worker with a good knowledge of the job, and may feel a loss of pride in being retrained. Special attention is required from the instructor, particularly on the first few days, to explain everything in detail to the re-trainee to assure him that the instructor is there to help him and to help maintain the retrainee's pride and self-confidence. 1. Introductory Talks a. Supervisor The supervisor will tell his employee, in advance, that he/she has been selected to be retrained and the reasons (low production, poor quality, newness to the job, job UNDP Page 86 of 160 KSA Technopak

knowledge needs, shift needs, methods changes, etc.). The supervisor emphasised that he will be checking and following up on the employee's progress. b. Training Staff The training instructor discusses the AAMT program with the re-trainee early in his first day in training. It is emphasised that the purpose of retraining is to assist the employee in areas where he/she is experiencing difficulties. It is mentioned that it is not neither necessary nor the intent of the program to change all his methods, but there are certain changes that can be beneficial to both the individual and the overall operation. 2. Retraining Analysis The retraining analysis established the specific areas of focused retraining attention. The instructor observing the re-trainee performing the job in his/her normal manner for approximately a four-hour period carries out the retraining analysis. The retraining analysis lists the various parts exercises; the instructor observes, times and makes written comment on the method, quality, safety, and any other areas where improvement could be effected. The instructor summarises the retraining analysis; discusses it with the training coordinator; and formulates a program of training for the re-trainee. The training records are instituted at this time. The instructor should then discuss the program of exercises and explain how these will be useful. He should point out that changes can be made much more easily on the simple exercises than on the whole job. He should also emphasise that no change is easy, and that it will require extra concentration for the re-trainee to change. Basic and job exercise training is usually unnecessary unless major methods changes are to be effected with the trainee. However, the job knowledge training listed under the basics must be covered adequately with each re-trainee. 3. Retraining Application The retraining analysis, along with the supervisor's reasons, have identified the areas where retraining is to be applied. Retraining begins in the training centre where the job knowledge is initially covered and the "how" the changes are to be affected is discussed. Where basic skill or job exercise training is not necessary, the time in the training centre should be limited to only what is required to prepare the re-trainee for actual on-hands practices. Parts exercise training and stamina development training is the areas of concentration with the re-trainee. Sight method changes, skill improvement, increased knowledge, motivation, and interest provide much of the basis for the success of retraining. UNDP Page 87 of 160 KSA Technopak

4. Encouraging Improvement A re-trainee often feels that, as he has been doing the job for along time, he cannot improve or change. One of the most important tasks for the instructor is to show him that he can improve and is improving, and to build up his self-confidence. The instructor should point out to the re-trainee every improvement that the re-trainee makes at each stage of training. Once a re-trainee realises that he is actually improving, it gives him a great sense of accomplishment and is a tremendous help in encouraging him to want to improve further. 5. Encouraging Participation Participation by the trainee is helpful in all training activities, but with a re-trainee it is essential to success. The re-trainee must understand exactly why he is doing each part of the training program and how it will help him. He must also take a very active part in the administration and control of his own training program. Only in this way can he really develop the will to improve, which is the key to successful retraining. Think back and put yourself in the re-trainee's position, and imagine how you would feel about retraining, how you would respond, and act accordingly. 6. Programming Retraining Retraining is programmed to result in no more than a 50 percent loss in individual operator production, and this is to occur during the early stages of the retraining program. The re-trainee should surpass his/her previous performance level within one-half to two-thirds of the retraining program. The length of a retraining program is normally considered to be about one-half the time taken for new employee training.

E. JOB KNOWLEDGE TRAINING


1. New Employees The newly hired employee has received much information about the company, the benefits, and the responsibilities that go along with employment. It is important that AAMT assist the new employee to learn as much as possible about the job and the company so that he can develop an interest and pride in his job and the company. The instructor should be alert for items of misconception or of a lack of knowledge by the trainee and correct the trainee's deficiency immediately. Where outside assistance is required, the instructor should inform the training co-ordinator. Safety is emphasised before, during, and especially after AAMT.

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The instructor must ensure that the trainee possesses adequate and correct job and company knowledge. A trainee must not be permitted to complete AAMT if a void exists.

2. Re-trainee or Transfer Trainee The job knowledge training of a re-trainee or a transfer trainee is applied according to the training manual, except that exercises may be completed when the trainee possesses sufficient knowledge. Where items of policy or procedure are noted as incorrect or deficient, then either correct or inform your training co-ordinator. Pertinent items from the new employee list are covered as necessary. Tests are given and graded; results are entered; and the tests are maintained in the trainee's folder. Again, as with the new employee, ensure that the trainee possesses the correct job knowledge and company knowledge before completing his training. AAMT specifies the following structure for job knowledge training:

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S.No. A 1 2 3 4 5 B 1 2 3 C 1 2 3 D 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 E 1 2 3 4 F 1 2 3 4 5

Days Topic Discipline Time Trainers Instructions Line of Command Ethics Interpersonal Behaviour House Keeping Personal Workplace Machine Machine Safety Cutting Machines Sewing Machine Maintenance Test Quality Basic Definintion Stitches and Seams Working of the basic parts Quality system in the factory Defect Identification Basic Fabric Types Sewing Needle Garment Analysis Sewing Thread M/C Attachments Test Basic of Work study Basic concept of SAM Targets Performance WIP Test Factory Systems Bundling Method Ticketing Method Cut and Bundle # identification Barcode system (if any) Needle Policy Test

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

F. DEMONSTRATING TECHNIQUE
A trainee learns by doing, but it is important that he does each exercise correctly right from the start. In order to achieve this, the instructor must demonstrate each new exercise to the trainee and then have the trainee practice it until he is doing it correctly. The fact that an instructor can perform the exercise perfectly himself is of little or no help to the trainee, unless the trainee is extremely well trained in observing and copying motions. The important thing is to demonstrate the exercise and explain the motions in such a way that a trainee can do them correctly himself. An instructor should follow the following steps when demonstrating a new exercise to a trainee: 1. Prepare

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Check to see that the work place and the necessary training materials are ready and check the procedure(s) involved in the manual. 2. Explain Purpose Explain why this exercise is helpful and how it fits into the learning of that operation. 3. Demonstrate at Speed Whenever practical, demonstrate the exercise a few times at speed to give the trainee a general idea of the whole exercise. 4. Demonstrate and Explain Slowly Demonstrate the exercise several times slowly and stop to explain each key point. 5. Invite Questions Encourage the trainee to ask questions about anything that he does not understand. 6. Trainee Practices Slowly Have the trainee practice the exercise himself. 7. Correct the Trainee Correct any mistakes that the trainee is making. If the trainee has difficult with a key point, have him repeat the key point out loud. If the trainee can do the exercise and explain it, you can be sure that the instruction was understood. 8. Leave the Trainee to Practice Let the trainee practice by him for just a few times. 9. Recheck the Trainee Check back and correct any mistakes the trainee is making. 10. Start Timing Once the trainee's methods are correct, timings should start. The trainee must be encouraged to try to pick up speed. Explain that all times are to be recorded and that the time will not count unless the exercise is done correctly. 11. Leave the Trainee to Practice UNDP Page 91 of 160 KSA Technopak

Let the trainee practice for a number of times by him. 12. Recheck Come back frequently to recheck the trainee's methods and make any corrections that are necessary. Look at the times recorded by the trainee, make check timings yourself, and tell him how he is doing. Point out any progress that he is making and encourage him to improve. When demonstrating, the trainee should stand so that he can see the operation from as near the correct angle as possible, plus viewing it from other angles where appropriate. If two operators are training on one operation at the same time, it is useful to demonstrate an exercise to both at the same time. When they first practice themselves, they should do it one at a time; and each can learn from the other's methods. By following this procedure, the instructor has the best chance of training a new exercise. It is the final result, which is important - how well the trainee performs the exercise. Sometimes a lot of patience and persistence is required to attain this. It does not matter how clearly the instructor has demonstrated the exercise or explain the key points if the trainee does not do it correctly. Remember - nothing has been taught until it has been learned.

G. WORKING WITH OPERATORS


In any work environment, a harmonious working relationship is necessary in order to have the co-operating of the participants involved. Training requires you to work with a number of different types of operators. In order to have a good working relationship with each of them it is always best to first get to know the person. Who are they? Married? Children? Education? Job performance? Attitude?

As well as finding out whom you will be working with, it is good to understand how they view you. Generally, operators think of training, engineering, or management a being "The Enemy" and unapproachable. Someone who makes the operator's job more difficult and who only cares about production. The operator feels that since you do not do their job, then you could not understand their job and therefore should not be telling them how to do it. In most cases, operators do not know you or understand what your job is about. So to help change the general opinion most operators have of training, engineering, and UNDP Page 92 of 160 KSA Technopak

management and to help establish a good working relationship the following rules should be used. Common Courtesy 1. The Golden Rule: Always say "PLEASE & THANK YOU" 2. Be nice and friendly to the operator. - Watch your tone of voice (Don't scare them) - Greet them (Good Morning, How are you?, Hello) - Introduce yourself! 3. Respect the Operator's Job - Don't lean over them, their machine, or get in the workspace. - Don't take their work or move it without asking permission. - Don't block their light, air, or space. Steps in Approaching an Operator 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Greet them. Introduce yourself. Ask their name. Explain your purpose (Tell them what you want). Ask their permission. Ask them questions. Listen to them & answer their questions. Show appreciation.

If an operator asks questions that you do not know the answer to, tell them you will find out and get back to them. ALWAYS FOLLOW-UP. DO NOT MAKE PROMISES YOU CANNOT KEEP! A Short Course in Human Relations The six most important words: "I admit I made a mistake" The five most important words: "You did a good job" The four most important words: "What is your opinion?" The three most important words: "If you please" The two most important words: "Thank You"

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The one most important word: "WE" The least important word: "I"

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Day 6
OBJECTIVE
On completion of this session one should develop understanding on following techniques of AAMT: 1. General Guidelines in administering training activities i. General Guidelines regarding suggested sequence of training exercises ii. Advancement of Activities: Rule of 50% in single skill and multi skill cases. iii. Scheduling iv. Single Cycle Guidelines v. Setting goal and intermediate targets 2. Graduation 3. Transfer and follow-up

Day 6

Discussion 1

General Guidelines in administering Training Activities Graduation Transfer and Follow up

240 minutes (to be broken in two sessions of 120 minutes each)

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Discussion 1 Time: 240 Minutes (To broken in two sessions of 120 Minutes each)
A. GENERAL GUIDELINES ACTIVITIES
1. General Guidelines a. The trainee should systematically advance through the exercises, following the suggested sequence (Basic/Common, Job, Method, Stamina Build -up). b. Beginning with the first exercises in Basic/Common, the trainee should achieve at least 50% of target before advancement to Job Exercises, or the next level. The trainee should only be allowed to work in two consecutive levels at one time. c. The trainee should spend no more than 1/2 hour on each exercise during their first attempts. This guideline could change, however, if the exercise has a long cycle time or if it is the only exercise remaining to be completed. d. When a trainee becomes frustrated with an exercise, the instructor should suggest they take a break for a while work on another exercise. 2. Advancement of Activities a. The single cycle timing should begin within two days after the trainee begins to sew on first quality work. At first the single cycle percent is expected to be low, but this only establishes a starting point. b. During the first few weeks of training, a new operator should be able to improve her single cycle percent in 10% - 15% - 20% jumps (depending on how low she was to start). c. When the single cycle reaches the 60 to 80 percent range, the rate of improvement will begin to slow down. The important thing for the instructor to look for is rapid cycle improvements during the early stages of training. d. When the operator achieves 50 percent on single cycle, she then will begin to do multiple unit or 1/2-hour runs. e. When she achieves 50 percent on multiple unit runs or 1/2-hour runs, she begins one-hour runs. f. At 50 percent achievement on one-hour runs, she begins two-hour runs.

IN

ADMINISTERING

TRAINING

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This 50 percent guideline will keep the trainees from advancing too fast, but at the same time move them into stamina build-up when they are ready for this phase of training. **NOTE** Trainees learning multiple jobs should follow the advancement guideline outlined under part G. Programming.

3. Scheduling a. Long cycle exercises, single cycles, or stamina runs should be scheduled in the morning or after a break with short cycle exercises between them to break up the day. b. Do not schedule any stamina runs at a time of day that will be interrupted by break time. 4. Single Cycle Guidelines a. On a long cycle operation, the first few days of single cycles may yield some twoto four-minute cycles. If this is the case, only time five cycles to get the average cycle. As the operator improves, the number of cycles can then be increased to ten. The time required by an instructor to perform the single cycle checks should run approximately 10 to 15 minutes at the most. b. While making single cycles, the instructor should use this as an opportunity to observe and evaluate the operator's method. Following the established job method is the surest means of developing a constantly improving cycle percent. Adherence to the correct job method is one of the prime responsibilities of the instructor. c. If a trainee's single cycle percent begins to level off, the instructor should immediately try to achieve a "breakthrough" to prevent a learning plateau. If the trainee's single cycle falls below the training curve on her graph and cannot be corrected within a few days, the trainee is probably a lost cause. 5. Goals a. Whenever a trainee performs any training activity, she should approach it with the attitude - "This is the most important thing I'm going to do all day." In other words, she should give total concentration to the bundle run, one-hour run, etc., that has been scheduled.

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b. The instructor should set some intermediate targets each day or for each exercise for the trainee to shoot at. If, for example, the trainee is at 60 percent on stamina run, set an intermediate target of 65 - 70% for the next day. c. The instructor needs to use every significant achievement of the trainee as an opportunity for showing praise and appreciation. d. Likewise, backslide in the performance should not be acceptable. If necessary, have the trainee repeat an activity if you know she is giving less than her best effort.

B. GRADUATION
Requirements for graduating from the AAMT program should be established by local management representatives prior to the start up of AAMT program. The graduation requirements should be based upon operational circumstances of the local environment such as the number of operations/jobs being trained and expected satisfactory level of performance or efficiency. Sewing operators would be awarded a graduation certificate depending on the skill acquired by them in the entire duration of the AAMT training. The Sewing operators would be awarded this prestigious certificate, if and only if they meet all the following criteria: Case 1 Operators trained on a single operation: Sewing Operators trained on a single operation would be awarded the sewing graduation certificate by the concerned Operator Trainer if: a) The operator attains a minimum of 90% performance for 5 consecutive working days. b) The operator should have an On-Standard time of at least 70% during the 5day graduation period. c) The quality of the pieces produced by the operator, during this period, should be less than 8 DHU. Case 2 Operators trained on multiple operations: Sewing Operators trained on more than one operation would be awarded the sewing graduation certificate by the concerned Operator Trainer if: KSA Technopak

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a) The operator attains an average minimum of 80% performance (across all trained operations) for 5 consecutive working days. In the case when the Operator is being trained on two or more different machines, then the operator has to attain an average 75% performance for 5 consecutive days. b) The operator should perform (On-Standard) on any of the trained operations for a minimum of 20% of the Total Clock Time for the 5 days. c) The operator should have a Total On-Standard time of at least 70% during the 5-day graduation period. d) The quality of the pieces produced by the operator, during this period, should be less than 8 DHU (average across all his/her operations).

C. TRANSFER AND FOLLOW-UP


A trainee is transferred from training and placed on follow-up when his production and quality are up to the expected standard for graduation. The transfer of a trainee from the actively working with category to on-follow-up does not release AAMT from its responsibility to ensure the training is complete. The following steps contribute to a successful transfer and a successful follow-up evaluation by the supervisor. 1. Before Transfer For several days before transfer, the supervisor should check more closely with the trainee and discuss the performance with the instructor. The instructor should point out any weaknesses or shortcomings in the trainee of which the supervisor should be aware. The trainee should be given a final talk to compliment him on progress to date, prepare him for the change, and encourage him to continue his performance during the follow-up period and on after graduation from the program. 2. At Transfer The instructor should check with the trainee during the first week on the job. This is to help keep track of progress and help with any special problems that he may have. The supervisor is also consulted as to his evaluation of the trainee's progress. 3. Follow-up The purpose of follow-up is to allow the supervisor to evaluate the trainee and to determine if the trainee is acceptable as a trained employee. Follow-up is normally performed for several weeks.

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The instructor's duties during follow-up are n the line of checking with the trainee and helping the trainee if he is having any difficulties. Additionally, daily checks and discussions are held with the supervisor. A noted drop in performance is discussed with the training co-ordinator and the supervisor, and a corrective course of action is agreed upon. The instructor should follow up on a trainee after she has been transferred to the production department until the trainee has maintained a satisfactory performance level for several weeks, and then monitor her performance for one year if possible.

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Day 7
INTRODUCTION
Developing a training course is the most challenging part of job for the AAMT instructors. This training course should serve the aims of AAMT stated initially. The most important part of development of training program is the job analysis. This session will be specially focussed on the training course design or development of the training program

OBJECTIVE
On completion of this session one should develop understanding on following techniques of AAMT: 1. Development of training program: vi. Purpose and composition vii. Job Analysis viii. Develop Job Exercises ix. Equipments x. Setting targets xi. Course Outline 2. Performance measures and monitoring xii. Exercise Work sheet / Individual Progress sheet / Group Progress Sheets xiii. Single Cycle timings / Capacity study xiv. Stamina Development xv. Training Graphs xvi. Overcoming learning plateau

Day 7

Discussion 1 (Developing a Training Program)

Purpose and Composition Job Analysis Develop Job Exercise Equipment Setting Targets Preparing Course Outline Exercise Worksheet Single Cycle

120 minutes

Discussion 2 (Performance Measures and Monitoring)

120 minutes

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Stamina Development Target Daily production Training Graphs Overcoming Learning Plateau Instructors Guidelines

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Discussion 1 Time: 120 Minutes


DEVELOPING A TRAINING PROGRAM
A. PURPOSE AND COMPOSITION
1. Purpose

The purpose of an AAMT training course is to provide the instructor with a logical, step-by-step guide to operator training. Once designed, the training course can be used for both training new employees and retraining old employees. The training course will not only tell the instructor what to have the operator do, but will also provide targets (goals) that may be used to measure performance and progress for all stages of training. 2. Composition An AAMT training course consists of a series of exercises that an operator will perform to help her systematically develop skill and stamina while learning her job. These exercises are basically grouped as follows: a. Basic Skill Development Exercises These develop the general skills needed for successful job performance; i.e., hand and finger dexterity, hand/eye co-ordination, two-hand co-ordination, etc. b. Job Related Skill Development Exercises These develop the specific skills, as they are needed for a given job. In performing these exercises, the operator begins to simulate her actual job on practice material (shapes, dummies, scraps, etc.) c. Parts of Job Exercises Here the operator begins to practice each part of the job separately on the actual production work. By isolating a given part of the complete job, the operator can focus her total attention on learning a small segment at a time. d. Single Garment Exercise Here the operator combines all of the separate parts of the job into the complete cycle. The earlier isolation of parts now enables her to approach the complete job with more confidence and assurance.

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e. Multiple Cycle and Stamina Exercises As the operator successfully progresses through the parts and single garment exercises, she is ready to begin to work toward developing her ability to perform for prolonged periods of time. The end result of these exercises is an operator performing at a high skill level over the course of a full workday. Standard basic training courses have been developed for each machine type that when applied will carry a trainee through his/her first several days. The design of the training course for a specific operation must outline the procedures to take the trainee from basic training to successful performance of the actual operation.

*Refer to the Training course design attached initially and the Basic exercises in the Annexure

B. JOB ANALYSIS
1. Gather Information Gather all relevant data on the operation from the engineering manual. This would include time study data, method write-ups, quality specifications, etc. Although some operations may have changed since the engineering manual was prepared, this material can still serve as a useful reference source. 2. Interviewing The most accurate way to gather any kind of information is to go directly to the source. If a particular job is being analysed, who knows that job better but the person who performs it everyday - the Operator. The easiest method in which to collect information from operators is to conduct an "Interview". Interviewing Pointers: - Divide up operators among interviewers so that each interviewer learns every part/process of the job. - Don't miss anyone! Interview everyone in the area - Supervisors, operators, material handlers, mechanics, etc. The person you skip may have the piece of information you are looking for. - Remember to cover the 6 Pointers: Methods, Quality, Safety, Ergonomics, Waste, and Housekeeping. UNDP Page 104 of 160 KSA Technopak

- Summarise information gathered daily. - Review information gathered with area supervisor and possibly some operators. - Always follow-up on unanswered questions. 3. Determine the "Best Method" Only one version of job methods for each operation will be taught in the AAMT centre. The instructors should determine this version with the assistance of local engineers and using basic engineering guidelines. This method is referred to as the "Best Method". This method could be a combination of several methods being used on the production floor and should be chosen because it is the easiest way of training new operators to perform the job and to produce good quality work in the most efficient manner. 4. Document the "Best Method" Each operation method should be formally documented and include the following information: Operation name/description Standard Allowed Minutes (SAM) Detailed steps of the method (1, 2, 3...) Key Points (Method, Quality, Ergonomics, Waste, Safety, & Housekeeping) Quality specifications Sketch (Using references points A, B, C...)

C. DEVELOP JOB EXERCISES


1. In order to design the job exercises that are needed for a particular operation, it is first necessary to determine the specific skills to be taught. In making this determination it may be found that a particular skill was sufficiently developed during basic training and it is not necessary to include another job exercise for this same skill. 2. Develop specific training shapes or dummies. The job exercises should simulate the actual production work to be done, but the shape should be as simple to prepare as possible. 3. Design appropriate exercises. The job exercises should isolate skills and introduce them one at a time. Don't have a job exercise introduce too much new material at one time.

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4. Documentation of the job exercise should include the following: Exercise name Materials needed Starting position Detailed exercise method Key Points Quality Specifications Sketch

D. EQUIPMENT
Getting the equipment, machines, tools etc. ready for training usually takes quite a long time because other people and their schedules are involved. Because of this, instructors should give these other people as much advanced notice as possible and a target completion date. (When you need it done). The following is a checklist of required tasks involving equipment: 1. Exercise Equipment (Mock-ups) Instructors should sketch a drawing of the mock-up equipment needed and review it with the person(s) who will be building it. If several pieces of the same mock-up are needed, have them build only one at first. This way the instructor can review it before ten are made and changes are needed. 2. Move/Set-up Machinery The maintenance department should be notified which machines have been allocated and plan to be moved to the training centre and when they are needed. It is important to give the maintenance department as much advanced notice as possible so they can better plan their schedule. Moving some types of machines involve quite a lot. Once the machinery has been moved into the training centre, it should be setup for Preventative Maintenance (An overhaul). This may require moving some parts of part of the machine that will hinder the PM. 3. Preventative Maintenance Preventative Maintenance or overhauling the machine should be done before the machine is prepared for operation. Mechanics may need to assist with replacing any damaged or missing parts. Instructors and possibly member of the review committee should clean the machine from top to bottom. This entails taking the machine apart, if necessary, in order to clean it with a Q-tip. The machine should be spotless because it will set the standard for the area. 4. Gathering Tools UNDP Page 106 of 160 KSA Technopak

The instructor should review with the department or area manager and make a list of tools, work aids, etc. that are used by the operators. Everything on this list should be acquired before training can begin. 5. Prepare Machine for Operation The machine should be set-up, tested, and operative before training can begin. It is recommended to have the area supervisor or operator test run the machine and check on everything.

E. SETTING TARGETS
Targets in some form or another should be set for each exercise developed. These targets can be in the form of time, quality, waste, safety, ergonomics, or housekeeping. It is important to have other types of targets besides just time targets because the training program does not want to promote speed at the cost of everything else. These targets are set at the level of an experienced operator and represent goals for the trainees to strive for and achieve. Once the trainees reach these goals or targets, they should be performing the job at the level of an experienced operator. The following steps should be used as guidelines for establishing exercise targets: Volunteers or representative operators should be selected from each shift. These people should be experienced and exceptional operators. Instructors should schedule with the area supervisor when these operators will assist with target setting. Each operator should perform the exercises while the instructor times them with a stopwatch or measures the target in some way. If the target type is immeasurable, a guideline or instructor judgement should be used. All measures for each target should be averaged, disregarding any extremes. Targets should require a reasonable amount of effort on the part of the trainee, but the target should be realistic and achievable.

It is very important to note that no target is permanent or "set in stone". Once training has begun, these targets can be tightened or loosened if necessary.

F. PREPARE COURSE OUTLINE


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A course outline should be prepared for each operation to be trained and should be a summary of a trainee's training. An Instructor should be able to use the course outline a complete training reference for each operation. The course outline should include the following information. Operation name Suggested training weeks Selected Basic Exercises Complete list of all Job Exercises developed in sequential order Stamina Runs with calculated 100% units

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Discussion 2 Time: 120 Minutes


PERFORMANCE MEASURES & MONITORING
A. EXERCISE WORKSHEET
The Exercise Worksheet is a form to record the trainee's results from Basic and Job Exercises. At least ten timing a day should be recorded for each exercise performed until the trainee meets or beats the target time. The second best time should be selected for passing an exercise, throwing out any extremes. The format for recording of this data is on following page.

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AAMT DAILY WORKSHEET


Name: ____________________________ Date: ____________________________ Exercise Target: Results (sec) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. Remarks Exercise Target: Exercise Target Operation/ Exercise: Days in Training: Exercise Target Results (sec) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. Remarks Exercise Target Results(sec) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. Remarks

Exercise Target Results (sec) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. Remarks

Results (sec) Results (sec) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. Remarks 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. Remarks

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OPERATOR'S PROGRESS RECORD


Name Prior experience (Operations) Starting Date: Ending Date: Trainer's Name: 2nd Best Time

Ex # Name 1 2 3 4 5 Pin Board (RH) Pin Board (LH) Ball and Tube (RH) Ball and Tube (LH) Needle Board

Start Date End Date Target

Comments

PS-1 Pedal control at max. speed PS-2 Precise stops at max. speed PS-3 Straight stitches at max. speed PS-4 Chg direction with needle down PS-5 Judging changes of direction PS-6 Sewing curve with one hand PS-7 Sewing in circles PS-8 Sewing curves PS-9 OL - sewing straight lines PS-10 OL - exact stops PS-11 OL- straight lines and curves ME-2 Threading machine ME-3 Changing bobbin ME-4 Changing needle ME-5 Changing color of thread FS-1 FS-2 FS-3 FS-4 FS-5 FS-6 Skill Exercises

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B. SINGLE CYCLES
Single Cycles should be performed by the instructor using a stopwatch. The basic procedure is to time five cycles (complete product unit, i.e. one pair or one bag) one at a time. Any cycles that are affected by machine delay (thread breaks, bobbin, etc.) should be circled and will not be used to compute the operator's average single cycle time. The timing of a single cycle session for any one operator should take the instructor approximately ten to fifteen minutes at most. On a long cycle operation, the first few days of the cycle timings may find the new operator taking several minutes per cycle. If this is the case, the instructor should only one or two timings a day. As the operator improves, the number of timings can be increased up to ten. While doing cycle timings, the instructor should use this as an opportunity to observe and evaluate the operator's method. Following the established job method is the surest way to develop a constantly improving single cycle. One of the instructor's main responsibilities is to see that the operator follows the correct job method. If the operator's single cycle percent begins to level off or starts to drop, the instructor should immediately be on the alert and work closely with the operator to correct the problem. The format for the data collection has been attached earlier. For the purpose of clarification, we are again attaching the format here:

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C. STAMINA DEVELOPMENT
1/2 HR, 1 HR, 2 HR, and 4 HR RUN: These production runs are timed by the trainee, using the countdown feature of the timing device. At the end of the run, counts the quantity completed and compute the percentage. The operator should complete as many good quality units as possible during the time interval. Apply these definitions and formulas to the stamina exercises: SAM/Unit - Minutes allowed per unit/piece Target/Units - Number of units required during Stamina Run to achieve 100% efficiency. (Stamina Run Actual Min) / (SAM/Unit) Actual Units - Number of units completed during Stamina Run % Units - Performance percentage for Stamina Run (Actual Units) / Target Units

The format attached above which is used for the single cycle studies is also used for the Stamina runs also.

D. TARGETS
The main purpose of intermediate targets is to give the trainee a goal to aim for during a session on an exercise even when she is a long way from the normal 100% target.

E. DAILY PRODUCTION
At the end of the day, compute the trainee's total daily performance. Units - Total number of units completed

SAM/Unit - Minutes allowed per unit/piece Min. Earned - Minutes earned by the trainee producing work (Units) x (SAM/Unit) Off-Std. Min - Off-standard minutes, time trainee was clocked off-standard & unable to produce work Min. On Job - Total minutes spent working on the operation (480 minutes) - (Off-Std Min) UNDP Page 115 of 160 KSA Technopak

Daily % - Daily performance percentage Total Minutes Earned = Add Min Earned for all jobs (Total Minutes Earned) / (Min on Job) NOTE To calculate daily percentage for more than one style or operation: Add up Min Earned for all styles or operations done (Min Earned) + (Min Earned) = Total Min Earned Add up Min on Job for all styles or operations (Min on Job) + (Min on Job) = Total Min on Job - Off STD Min Divide overall Total Min Earned by overall Total Min on Job (Total Min Earned) / (Total Min on Job)

F.

TRAINING GRAPHS

After a trainee has learned the method of an operation and is doing good quality, allow him/her to practice for 1-2 days before beginning Single Cycle Timing. This first Single Cycle Time starts the Training Graph. To plot the first Single Cycle time on the graph, find the point on the drawn curve equal to the Single Cycle percentage and mark an "X" at the beginning of the corresponding week. That week is where to begin plotting the Single Cycle % and Daily % each day. Every day, Single Cycle % (capacity %) and Daily % (performance %) should be plotted on the graph. Eleven kinds of training curves have been observed over the year of working in the apparel industry. These training curves are based on the over all analysis or complexity of the operation (which reflects the time it will require for the operator to reach at 100%) The guideline on setting the allowed training time would be discussed in the further sessions. The allowed training time once arrived at forms the basis for selection of a particular training curve.

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4 Week Training Curve

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6 Week Training Curve

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8 Week Training Curve

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10 Week Training Curve

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12 Week Training Curve

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14 Week Training Curve

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16 Week Training Curve

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18 Week Training Curve

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20 Week Training Curve

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22 Week Training Curve

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24 Week Training Curve

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G. OVERCOMING A LEARNING PLATEAU


There may be times during a trainee's progress when he stops improving on an exercise before he reaches the target. When a trainee's times level out for two or more sessions on an exercise, this is called a "plateau" in learning; and at such times it is essential that the instructor help the trainee to overcome this plateau. The following steps should be taken by the instructor to help the trainee:

1. Watch the Trainee's Methods The instructor should watch the trainee performing the exercise in order to try and find out what the difficulty is. The instructor should analyse the trainee's methods carefully and check that all the key points are being done correctly. He should also try to see which part of the job seems to be slowing the trainee down. 2. Correct the Method if necessary If the trainee is using an incorrect method, which can be corrected easily, the instructor should correct it immediately and have the trainee continue practising the exercise using the correct methods. If the trainee is using an incorrect method, which may be difficult to change, the instructor should take the trainee back to an earlier and simpler exercise where the mistake can be corrected and practised before returning to the original exercise. 3. Look at the Trainee's Records If there is no obvious method change required, the instructor should look at the trainee's records to see what earlier exercises the trainee may still be having difficulty with. By watching the trainee and looking at the records, the instructor should be able to decide which earlier exercise the trainee should practice. 4. Go back to an Earlier Exercise Even if the trainee was doing well on the earlier exercise, he should go back to it in order to re-establish the correct speed of working and to restore his confidence in his own ability. If the trainee was having difficulty with the earlier exercise, the instructor should work with him while he is practising it. The instructor should encourage the trainee, praise him when he improves a little, try to get him to improve a little more, and stay with him until he improves. 5. Practice the Original Exercise Again

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Once the trainee has performed the earlier exercise successfully, he should practice the original exercise on which he was having difficulty. Before starting, the instructor should explain to the trainee that he has shown how well he can do on the earlier exercise and with just a little extra effort could improve on this exercise and break through the plateau. Again, the instructor should stay with the trainee until he improves, encouraging him, timing him, getting him to rest between attempts, commenting on his times and progress, and making the trainee feel that the instructor believes that he can make it. These "breakthrough" sessions are essential to the success of many trainees who might otherwise become discouraged by their lack of progress. The important factors in a successful breakthrough session are: Analysing the trainee's difficulties correctly. Going back to an earlier stage to restore the trainee's speed and selfconfidence. Explaining to the trainee exactly what is happening. Getting the trainee to put out a little extra effort. Staying with the trainee to help, guide, and encourage him.

H. INSTRUCTOR GUIDELINES
The job of the AAMT instructor consists of two distinct phases. First, the instructor must teach. Teaching in our program involves taking the new operator through exercise training, developing job method, quality, safety, waste, ergonomics, housekeeping, and developing single cycle performance. Once the trainee's single cycle performance achieves the desired level, the teaching part of the job is basically over. Skill development is considered complete when the trainee is at 100% single cycle performance with acceptable quality. Following the teaching phase, the instructor must motivate and follow-up with the trainee until daily performance reaches the desired level. Since the trainee has already developed the necessary skill, the achievement of daily performance will be a matter of holding this skill level over prolonged periods of time and making good utilization of the time or responsibility requirements available during the work day. In both phases of the program, the AAMT instructor must go about the job with an enthusiastic positive attitude. The vast majority of trainees will respond to this. A key to success in the program is the instructor's ability to get the trainee to work up to her potential. How we go about doing this makes a difference.

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We must realise that in many cases the trainees and operators in today's labour market are marginal - not necessarily in ability, but in motivation. We cannot assume that because a person applies for a job they are highly motivated to perform well on that job. But our job remains to produce productive operators, and this will depend heavily on our ability to motivate. One reason you were selected to become an AAMT instructor was because of your ability to communicate your knowledge of jobs to your trainees and then motivate them to perform. Each instructor must take responsibility for the development of the trainees assigned to him. We place great initial emphasis on the meeting the exercise targets and development of single cycle performance, but we must be careful to monitor daily performance or achievement to be certain it is kept to a reasonable level. As a general guideline, we should look for average daily performance or achievement to fall in the following ranges:

Week 1 Performance/ Achievement Range % 10-19%

20-29%

30-39%

40-49%

50-59%

60-69%

If, for example, a trainee in his/her third week is not at least in the 30% performance range or complete 30% of their training program, we should "Red Flag" them for the following week and be prepared to make a decision on this trainee. It is easy to terminate each trainee whose performance falls below our expectations, but this procedure will produce very few trained operators. We must do everything within our power to increase trainee performance. But, once it becomes obvious that we have done everything possible and the trainee still will not achieve success, we must be prepared to cut off with one trainee and start over with another. Based on an analysis of operators achieving success, as well as those who failed, we have found the following to be realistic guidelines for dropping an operator from the program: Performance Levels Warranting Termination Weeks of Training Performance Level 2 Below 10% 3 Below 20% 4 Below 30% 5 Below 40% *Note* A week is based on 48 hours worked. UNDP Page 130 of 160 KSA Technopak

Judgement must be used in applying these guidelines. A good single cycle performance or unfavourable conditions beyond the operator's control should be taken under consideration. The first reaction should always be to save the operator, but at the same time we must be certain we are not investing time and money in someone who stands no chance of becoming successful. By the time an operator enters her sixth week of training, we should be convinced she stands a good chance of becoming successful. 1. TRAINEE INTERVIEW In most cases where the problem is discovered and the remedial steps are determined, the trainee should be told. Usually she has long since been aware of the problem and is frustrated by her apparent inability to progress. In any event, it is wise to enlist her support in effecting the cure for her "sick" curve. Without it the effort is an exercise in futility. a. Depending on the trainee and the seriousness of the problem, the review may be carried out at the machine. This type of interview is usually best done by the Instructor. When a corrective discussion is needed (particularly one involving attitude) the interview is best made in the training centre or a separate area. No operator enjoys a discussion of her problems being made within earshot of her co-workers. 2. TERMINATION Termination is in order only after it has been determined that the trainee cannot be economically salvaged. The trouble-shooting procedure should roll into action when the first signs of distress appear on the trainee's chart. Examples of cases where termination is frequently delayed beyond reason include: 1. The operator who has the ability, but whose attitude is unalterably a barrier to standard production. "It seems such a waste of talent to terminate her when it is known that she can produce - if she only would." 2. The operator who has such a good attitude and wants very badly to make standard, but obviously hasn't the basic abilities required for the job. "She should be terminated - but she's so nice." 3. The little old lady who has been here for ten years. "She hasn't sewn over 40% as far back as our records go -- but she does good work!"

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The data obtained above is compiled in the format given on the next page to give a proper visibility on the progress of the trainees. Each days data is progressively noted against a particular trainees name.

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Day 8
INTRODUCTION
Setting up of a time frame for allowed training time has been an essential part of any Training program. It provides most important yardstick against which the efficacy of the training is measured. AAMT employs a very scientific tool to estimate the time required for training on any operation. This involves evaluating critically the important elements of performing any operation. There is a two fold benefit of this process- 1) the operation is analyzed and forces the instructor to have a critical look at the complete operation cycle. It has been seen that many a times this results in the elimination of the wastage and improvement of the operation. 2) The guidelines are set on the occurrence of these elements and bring the instructors attention on one of these elements in case not being performed correctly and leading to delay over allowed training time. This allowed training time forms the basis of the selection of the training curves which has been developed through KSAs experience with training over the years. AAMT also provides a set of tool like Bundle Diagnosis and Bundle by Bundle follow up which are used in the specific cases for improving the operators performance in case of non-compliance with the normal course of operators performance development.

OBJECTIVE
On completion of this session one should develop understanding on following techniques of AAMT: 1. Guidelines for setting allowed training time 2. Guidelines regarding operator performance improvement

Day 8

Discussion 1 (Guidelines for setting up the allowed training time) Discussion2 (Guidelines for AAMT Instructors for Operator Performance Improvement)

120 minutes Case A: Capacity and Performance both above Training Curve Case B: Capacity above Training but Performance below the Training Curve Case C: Capacity and Performance both are below the Training Curve 120 minutes

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Discussion 1 Time: 120 Minutes

Guidelines for setting the allowed training time


The most important factors that determine the required time for reaching 100% performance in an operation are: Skill in managing the parts (How much handling is required? How difficult is it?) Sewing Skill (What type of sewing is necessary? How difficult is it?) Number of daily repetitions of the work cycle (The more repetitions, the more practice)

The operation should be analyzed in the following manner: a) Pickup: What is required to pickup the material from the assigned location b) Align and Position: What is required to prepare the materials for sewing? c) Sewing: What type of sewing is necessary? What special sewing skills are needed? d) Repositioning: What additional material handling is needed once the sewing cycle has started e) Dispose: How are the finished parts disposed? f) Repetitions: How many times in a day is the work cycle repeated by the operator?

Notice: Only one side is analyzed for operations that include both sides. Eg. On an operation like cuffs you would only analyze one cuff The distance of seam is the total distance regardless of changing direction or stops The elements in repositioning are analyzed one by one all other elements are only analyzed once. The training curves should be established according to a base model and applied consistently.

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Conversion rates for Points into Training weeks Point Value 60 or more 55-59 45-54 40-44 35-39 30-34 20-29 15-19 Less than 15 Weeks in Training 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4

Pickup Pickup 1 part Pickup 2 parts (independent movements) Pickup 2 parts simultaneously Pickup 3 or more parts Align and Position 1 small part (pockets, collars) 1 large part ( backs, fronts) 2 small parts 2 large parts or 1 large and 1 small 3 or more parts ** ADD Fold or turn when aligning and positioning Sew Automatic (Buttonhole, Bartack, Button sew) Straight sewing Contour sewing **ADD One Folder (Bottom hem) Two Folders (Side seam) Backtack Precise stopping Changing sewing direction without leaving the fabric Short seam length (less than 6) Medium seam length (7-19) Long seam length (20 or more) Repositioning during sewing cycle Sewing off and continue to sew without realigning Stop and align parts under foot (aligning notches, insert 3rd part) Remove parts from under foot align place under foot and continue sewing

POINTS 1 2 3 4 POINTS 1 2 3 4 5 2 POINTS 3 6 9 1 2 2 2 2 1 2 3 POINTS 1 2 3

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**ADD Folding or turning when realigning Dispose In chain, auto-stacker, drop box Place aside without folding Fold and place aside ** ADD Cut and Stack Repetitions If the quota is: Less than 200 201-400 401-600 601-800 801-1000 1001-1200 1201 or more

1 POINTS 1 2 3 1 POINTS 35 30 25 20 15 10 5

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Discussion 2

Guide-lines for AAMT Performance Improvement

Trainers

Time: 120 Minutes

for

Operator

The following guidelines provide AAMT trainers the procedures for analysis of the Training Curves of their operators, in order to determine and overcome the specific problems of the operators. After going through these guide-lines, the trainer will be able to determine the best way to utilize the "Instructor's Daily Work-sheet" in order to overcome the specific problem of each operator and thus, achieve results more rapidly. CASE A: Capacity and performance are both above the Training Curve

Performance and Capacity Graph CASE A


120 110 100 90 80 70 Target 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 Capacity Performance

Week

This is the "ideal" case. The operator is above the Training Curve. The use of the "Instructor's Daily Work-sheet" will be as normally followed: Do 3 or 4 single cycle checks each day, always ensuring that the % capacity of the operator is increasing with each single cycle check. The trainer must motivate the operator (BEFORE BEGINNING the single cycle timing) to sew a little faster than the previous single cycle check. In a case where in the operator does not log a single cycle time better than the previous check, it is recommended to motivate the operator to improve his/her time and take another single cycle immediately. If the operator is able to improve on the single cycle time, the trainer should either do a quality check on the pieces produced or get Page 137 of 160 KSA Technopak

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the operator to perform to perform a quality drill on these pieces. The objective is to ensure that the operator has not sewn in lesser time at the cost of quality of the pieces produced. Do in excess of 8 stamina runs utilizing the "rule of 50%". This is with the objective of improving the resistance and stamina of the operator for longer durations of time. It is VERY IMPORTANT that the trainer does not conduct lots of stamina runs of small duration for an operator if her efficiency is already higher than 50% in these runs. This is because, firstly, it loses the effect of the development of resistance for longer and longer periods of time. Secondly, more the stamina runs we do more is the amount of time required to be spent with each operator in giving them targets, calculating and reviewing the results . and this reduces the time that can be spent with other operators and in completing our rounds. It is not necessary to conduct buddle diagnosis exercises for improvement in capacity with these operators as their sewing speed (capacity) is in the expected levels (above their training curves) When the operator starts getting close to graduation, instead of stamina run, do bundle-by-bundle follow up for the complete day. This is to make sure that the operator starts maintaining high efficiency throughout the whole day.

CASE B: Capacity above the training curve, but performance below the training curve This case is common for operators that have performances below the training
Perfo rm ance and C ap acity G rap h - C A S E B
110 100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 Targ et C apac ity P erform anc e

W e ek

curves. In this type of situation, the operator has the sewing speed required to reach the expected performance, but some external problem exists that does not allow him/her to develop to the required performance throughout the day. KSA Technopak

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The first step to take in these cases is to solve the problem that the operator has and by which he/she does not obtain the efficiency of the curve (if the problem is not known to the trainer or he/she is not sure, the trainer should conduct a bundle diagnosis). The problems by which the operators do not manage to develop their efficiency can classify in to 5 categories: 1. Quality problems. SOLUTION: Determine the cause of the quality problem and give a fast solution to the operator. If the instructor has a doubt in the solution or feels that it will not work, then he/she should contact the AAMT Coordinator (currently, inform the Line In charge/Production Manager) 2. Machine problems. SOLUTION: Make necessary adjustments to the machine (review threading, thread and bobbin (if applicable) tensions, review needle, review cleaning of the parts of the machine etc.). If the problem persists (5 minutes or more), call the mechanic, explain the problem to him and what has already been tried. If the problem persists, contact the AAMT Coordinator (currently, inform the Line In charge/Production Manager) 3. Lack of work. SOLUTION: In these cases, the problem can be divided in to 2 categories; first, the operator is assigned to an operation with another experienced operator and he/she (the experienced operator) takes away most of the work from the operator under training. The solution is to speak with the supervisor & to request him to have work left for the operator under AAMT training. If the situation is not solved, contact the AAMT Coordinator. (This situation does not exist currently, but will apply once some operators have "graduated" or when AAMT training is being conducted in an existing sewing line in another factory in case of a re-engineering). The second situation can be when the operator is assigned to an operation, which has a low SAM, and the target output of the line is lower than the target output of the operation. The operator, in these cases, will have to be given a second allocation (another operation) in the line so as to be able to work on 2 operations. In some cases, the target performance level for "graduation" might have to be revised. 4. Lack of resistance. SOLUTION: Conduct stamina runs using the "rule of 50%" until obtaining the performance level that is above the training curve (CASE A), and then continue with normal activities until graduation. 5. Problem of discipline. The operator has the capacity to sew more pieces but he/she does not want to do so. SOLUTION: Follow the disciplinary procedures of the company.

Once the problem is solved, the trainer should focus on doing more than 8 stamina runs during the day and he/she should take only 2 single cycle times, in order to plot on the graph (always ensure an increase capacity, as in Case A). This Page 139 of 160 KSA Technopak

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is because the sewing speed (capacity) of the operator is at the expected level (10 to 15 points above of the curve). If the operator has 2 or more operations, take 1 SCT for each operation and 2 for the operation with lower capacity. Once the operator reaches a 70% to 80% performance, replace the stamina runs with bundle-by-bundle follow-up, to take the operator to 100%. CASE C: Capacity and performance both are below the training curve This case is the most serious, but also simpler to solve.

Performance and Capacity Graph CASE C


110 100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 Target Capacity Performance

Week

In this type of situation, the operator does not have the ability to reach his/her training curve. In many occasions, the capacity is below the curve because the method is not correct. The first step is to review the method of the operator and to correct it. Once the method is corrected, the trainer must do 5 single cycles (capacity study) and 1 bundle diagnosis every day until the capacity of the operator rises above of the training curve. For bundle diagnosis, the Industrial Engg. will be required to provide B.M.s for different elements of the operation. The trainer must do in excess of 3 short stamina runs (of 15 minutes or one bundle).

NOTE: In all the cases (A, B, C) the trainer will have to conduct 6 quality checks and 2 quality drills with each one of his/her operators. An important point to keep in mind UNDP Page 140 of 160 KSA Technopak

is to make full use of the time spent with each operator (during a single cycle check, stamina run or BBB follow-up) by doing either a quality drill or a quality check. This helps us to ensure that the operator is sewing faster and with required quality, while utilizing our time to the fullest. If the trainer does not have operators in case C, he/she should do 3 bundle diagnosis exercises every day with the operators who have more capacity loss, namely the operators who have a higher difference (more than 15-20%) between their capacity and performance. Following pages shows the Bundle by Bundle follow up and Bundle diagnosis formats to be used for the operator performance improvement. While use of Bundle by Bundle operation helps to analyse the variation of operators pace from bundle to bundle and reason therefore, Bundle diagnosis is used to check the method by analyzing the individual elements of the operation.

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.5

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SECTION VI: AAMT QUESTIONNAIRE FOR INSTRUCTORS 1. The purpose of basic exercises is: a. b. c. d. 2. To provide simple training tasks at the beginning of the program and to introduce timing exercises. To demonstrate how difficult even simple tasks can be and to prove that real effort needs to be made. To develop the necessary basic skills and to show how timing of exercises measures and demonstrates progress. To relax trainees and help them to feel at ease.

The introductory talk given at the beginning of the course: a. b. c. Should make trainees realize that they will have to work hard to achieve quality or take the consequences. Should develop the right atmosphere for a relaxed, easy approach to learning their jobs. Should cover in detail the contents of the program and the techniques used so that trainees know what to expect if they do not reach the standards required. Should briefly explain the purpose and methods of the training course and stimulate the will to learn, to cooperate and to work hard to reach a high level of skill and earnings.

d.

3.

During the first few days the instructor decides each trainee's program of exercises, but once the trainees are familiar with the exercises, the instructor: a. b. c. d. Lets them choose the exercises they most want to do. Explains clearly what she wants them to do and when. Invites their participation in selecting exercises to be done, positively guiding their choice to suit their needs. Checks with the training supervisor to find out what he wants done.

4.

The reasons for timing exercises are: a. b. To provide an incentive for the trainees to try hard to achieve the level of skill of the experienced worker as quickly as possible. To measure results and to demonstrate progress to the trainee. KSA Technopak

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c. d. 5.

To provide an incentive and to measure results and demonstrate progress. To provide evidence that work is being done.

The best results in training on a particular exercise are obtained by getting: a. b. c. d. A few timed runs at maximum speed and plenty of un-timed runs, taking care to use the right methods. As many timed runs as possible at maximum possible speed to get into target. Enough timed runs to get information for the records, taking care to record only times achieved with correct method. As many timed runs as possible, using the correct methods, at maximum possible speed until target is achieved satisfactorily.

6.

Trainees should time themselves and keep their own records as soon as possible. The reason is: a. b. c. d. This makes the trainee work harder. This gives trainees more interest in their own times and records, and relieves the instructor of excessive paper work. This relieves the instructor of excessive paper work and helps keep the trainees occupied. This helps the instructor to judge the intelligence of the trainees and relieves the instructor of excessive paper work.

7.

The achieved time for an exercise selected for entry in the Exercise Progress Summary on any day should: a. b. c. d. Be the average attained on that day. Be the best or second best time achieved. Be a better than average time, picked to provide the goal to be beaten on the next day. Be selected primarily to show improvement on the previous day's result.

8.

Instructors should always conduct themselves in an alert, energetic and enthusiastic manner: a. To prevent management from getting a wrong impression of the training program.

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b. c. d. 9.

To set the right example for trainees. To establish themselves as persons of stature. To please the training supervisor.

Instructors should build the right relationship with their trainees in order to do their job most effectively. For this they should: a. b. c. d. Aim to be respected but not liked by their trainees. Aim to be liked first and respected secondly by their trainees. Aim to be respected and liked by their trainees. Aim to be respected and feared a little to get the most out of their trainees.

10.

When supervising a trainee in an exercise in the department, the instructor should: a. b. c. d. Stand or lean in a relaxed position to show the trainee she has confidence in her ability. Adopt an urgent manner to spur the trainee to greater effort. Be alert and make the trainee feel she is with her in the effort to do her best to achieve target with quality and correct method. Stay away from the trainee so she will not be nervous.

11.

In the relationship with the supervisor or group leader, the instructor should: a. b. c. d. Always put training first, irrespective of production needs. Always agree to the forelady's request and stop training if necessary to get production out. Try to reach a compromise solution, which enables her to do a proper training job without disrupting the production flow. Put up with any situation within reason where the training work cannot be done properly in order not to incur the displeasure of supervision.

12.

In explaining basic exercises to trainees, the instructor should: a. Take care to explain their purpose so the trainee will understand and try hard to achieve target on them.

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b. c. d. 13.

Avoid spending time on lengthy explanations because basic exercises will be over within a day or two. Avoid spending time on lengthy explanations because basic exercises are really a "game" to get the program going. Explain that basic exercises are only designed to let trainees get practice in timing and recording.

The first step in the technique of instruction for an exercise is: a. b. c. d. Demonstrate the exercise with explanation. Explain the exercise steps without demonstrations. Explain the background and purpose of the exercise. Be sure the equipment and work place are ready and check your knowledge of the instruction you are going to give.

14.

Key points that should be used by the instructor: a. b. c. d. Before she instructs trainees on a particular exercise to be sure she has the method right and knows which points to emphasize. To give to a trainee to read before starting an exercise so the trainee knows exactly what she is supposed to do. To check exercise target times. To show a trainee who is using a wrong method that she should follow the method laid down in the manual.

15.

A "breakthrough" in training is: a. b. c. d. Winning a point of argument or discussion with the training supervisor. Convincing a trainee that she should follow the right method when she has been stubbornly following the wrong method. Holding a "go" session with a trainee who has had difficulty getting her times down to target and succeeding in getting her into the target area. Completing the training of more than half of the operators on a particular operation.

16.

After a trainee has been instructed on how to do an exercise and has started practicing and timing herself, the instructor should: a. Visit the trainee once each hour and spend approximately five minutes helping her to improve her methods. Page 147 of 160 KSA Technopak

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b. c. d. 17.

Visit the trainee at least once every ten minutes, comment on the trainee's times, check her quality, and help improve her methods. Visit the trainee at least every ten to fifteen minutes to check the trainee's quality. Leave the trainee to practice on her own for at least twenty minutes so she does not get nervous.

The quality specification is very important to a successful AAMT program because: a. It provides a defined basis including, where possible, actual examples of acceptable limits for developing the trainees' knowledge of the quality requirements for which they are responsible. It describes the standards required in a perfect garment. It provides the basis for extra exercises to give variety in the training program. It provides evidence to prove to supervision that trainees have been given correct instruction in the quality requirements of their job.

b. c. d. 18.

The main purpose of the training centre is: a. b. c. d. To separate new operators from the old operators so they don't pick up any bad habits. To provide a separate area where the correct atmosphere for learning can best be developed without disturbances. To train in secret so the other operators do not know what is gong on. To give new operators a gentle and easy start on the job and not place them straight into the production department.

19.

The main object of using graphs in training is: a. b. c. d. To let the trainee realize that it is her own fault if she is doing badly. To show the trainee that, although she may be improving, she still has a long way to go before making a good operator. To demonstrate progress to the trainee in a clear, easily understood manner. To let everybody see each trainee's progress so she will be ashamed if she does not keep up a good rate of progress.

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20.

The purpose of stamina exercises is: a. To tire the trainee by working her continuously for long periods of time so the trainee realizes that she must really work hard in order to succeed. To see what the trainee is really capable of producing. To develop by stages the ability of the trainee to maintain the skill levels developed during the early part of her training. To accustom the trainee to working for long periods of time without a break.

b. c. d. 21.

The main difference between a training course and a retraining course is: a. b. c. d. The exercises for a re-trainee are different from those used for a trainee. Re-trainees are taken more thoroughly through basic exercises to provide a firm basis for their training. The training of re-trainees is planned to concentrate on certain stamina exercises in order to get them to work harder. Trainees are taken systematically through the whole training course but re-trainees normally concentrate mainly on weaknesses shown by the retaining analysis.

22.

Variety of exercise tasks is an important part of the planning of the early days of the training course: a. b. c. d. It is usually more important for trainees to have variety than for retrainees. Re-trainees require more variety of activities than trainees. It is equally important for trainees and re-trainees to have variety in exercise tasks. The variety of activity should always be kept to a minimum.

23.

An exercise can be regarded as "completed" and discontinued from a Trainees Daily Program of Work when: a. b. The target has been achieved two or three times in one session. The target has been achieved as the selected best time on two separate days. In special cases, instructor judgement is used.

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c. d. 24.

It has been achieved once, provided the exercise before it has been achieved two or three times. The instructor considers that the trainee has made satisfactory progress.

The training of a difficult job exercise should normally be undertaken as follows: a. Start if possible with a different, easier method on the exercise to get the "feel" of it, and then change later to the more difficult correct method. Use a basic exercise or an easier job exercise to develop the skill required, and then start the correct method on the skilled exercise right away. Use a basic exercise or an easier job exercise first, then a different easier method on the exercise, and finally transfer to the more difficult correct method. Try several different ways of doing the exercise and settle on the one, which the trainee finds easiest.

b.

c.

d. 25.

The length of time spent on stamina exercises should be: a. b. c. d. About a quarter of the training course. The last two days of the training course. As long as necessary to develop the necessary skill levels. As long as necessary to develop the trainee's ability to maintain the correct working pace over a full day.

26.

Training is complete when: a. b. c. Most of the training course has been covered at least once. The trainee is transferred from the training centre to the production department. The trainee has maintained a satisfactory level of production and quality for one year after transfer to the production department.

27.

Key points are: a. b. Definitions of the quality points in the operation. Step by step procedures for performing the operation.

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c.

The important points of skill and method which the instructor should emphasize which covers ergonomics, safety, waste, housekeeping, method, and quality. Definitions of why the main steps in the operation are performed.

d. 28.

"Participation" by trainees is a basic principle of AAMT. Instructors can best develop a sense of participation in their trainees by: a. b. Letting then know clearly where they stand at all times. Encouraging them to time themselves, record, select and graph their results, and join in planning their daily program of exercises, as far as possible. Being efficient and planning the work for their trainees in advance. Reporting fully to the training supervisor both the good and poor results produced by their trainees.

c. d. 29.

One of the best rules for conduct an instructor can follow in her job is as follows: a. b. c. d. Tell the trainees what you expect from them and criticize them when they do not achieve it. Let the trainees know that you expect them to do well and that you will be displeased with them if they do not progress satisfactorily. Always be kind to the trainees and never say anything to upset them. Let the trainees know that you expect them to do well, praise them when they improve, and encourage and help them when they are having difficulty.

30.

When one of the trainees has difficulty-reaching target on an exercise and there are no obvious incorrect methods, the instructor should (but still use instructor judgement): a. b. c. d. Encourage her to try harder and exert pressure if necessary. Go back to an earlier exercise to check skill and method. Select an easy intermediate target for the trainee to try to achieve. Check skill and method detail. Check her performance on earlier exercises. Then work hard with her to reach target on the exercise, then go back to an earlier exercise to recheck achievement of that target, and finally build up to the problem exercise again, and work hard with the trainee to achieve the target.

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31.

The retraining analysis is used: a. b. c. d. To show an old operator her faults. To analyze a re-trainee's methods and skills and to help in deciding her training program. To show a re-trainee's improvement in retraining. To prove to an experienced operator that she is not a good operator and that she needs help.

32.

The following example shows that timing obtained by a trainee on a particular exercise on "Day 4" of her training:

Exercise P4

Target 45 seconds

Results 74, 37, 68, 69, 82, 65, 70, 63, 64, & 60

The selected best time for entry to the Exercise Progress Summary is: a. 63 33. b. 37 c. 60 d. 64

The reason that the single cycle is important is because: a. b. c. d. It is posted on a chart on the bulletin board. It is about halfway through the training course. If a trainee does well on single cycle even though it is less than 100%, she will do well on production. It shows the trainee's progress on mastering all the skills of the job combined which is necessary to achieve a satisfactory daily performance.

34.

The most important aspect of instructing an exercise is: a. b. Being able to demonstrate it perfectly and at full speed so that the trainee knows exactly what to do. Pointing out to the trainee the key points (demonstrating the exercise, but not at 100%) and checking that the trainee is performing the exercise correctly. Describing every movement in exact detail so the trainee knows where to place each finger and how to move her hands. Pointing out to the trainee both the correct methods and the things that she should not do so the trainee knows what to avoid. Page 152 of 160 KSA Technopak

c. d. UNDP

35.

If a trainee's selected best time does not show improvement on her previous best time, the trainee should: a. b. c. d. Try the exercise again immediately. Go on to a more difficult exercise. Go back to an earlier exercise. Have a break and then try the exercise again.

36.

The main purpose of un-timed runs is: a. b. c. d. To give the trainee a rest. To give the trainee a chance to concentrate on quality. To reward the trainee for making good progress. To ease the work of the instructor.

37.

Un-timed runs should be programmed: a. b. c. d. Whenever the trainee shows signs of tiring. Whenever the trainee is getting too many repairs back. After each timed run. In order to rebuild her confidence when the trainee is having a real problem improving quality.

38.

The instructor should fix the trainee's repairs: a. b. c. d. Only in the early stages when too many repairs might either discourage the trainee or hold up the work too long in the training centre. Only when the trainee does not know how to fix the repairs herself. Only when the trainee gets back so many repairs that her production will suffer. Only when the trainee gets back so many repairs that she is likely to get discouraged and quit.

39.

The first steps in instructing a trainee for the first time on an exercise are as follows:

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a 1. Prepare 2. Explain Purpose 3. Demonstrate and explain slowly 4. Invite questions 5. Demonstrate at speed 6. Trainee practices 1. Prepare

b 1. Prepare

d 1. Prepare 2. Explain Purpose 3. Demonstrate at speed 4. Demonstrate and explain slowly 5. Invite questions 6. Trainee practices

2. Demonstrate at Speed 3. Invite questions 4. Demonstrate and explain slowly 5. Invite questions 6. Trainee practices

2. Explain Purpose 3. Invite questions 4. Demonstrate and explain slowly 5. Trainee practices 6. Demonstrate at speed

40.

When deciding the program of exercises for a re-trainee, the instructor should: a. b. c. d. Teach the re-trainee all the standard methods. Change only those methods, which can easily be changed. Change only those methods, which are preventing the re-trainee from achieving a good performance. Change only those methods, which the re-trainee is willing to change.

41.

In the preliminary talk to a re-trainee, the instructor should tell the re-trainee: a. b. c. d. That the retraining will help her to improve her performance and quality. That the retraining will teach her all the best and easiest ways of doing the job. That her work is not satisfactory and she needs to learn the proper way to do the job. That she will be given a last chance to improve in the training center and if she does not improve she will be fired.

42.

The best way the instructor can ensure that the trainees know the job knowledge thoroughly is: a. b. To observe the trainees performing their job. To keep a checklist of all the information covered with the trainees.

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c. d. 43.

To encourage the trainees to ask any questions about anything that they do not fully understand. To check the trainees' understanding by asking them questions and by observing them on the job.

The instructor should follow up on a trainee after she has been transferred to the production department: a. b. c. d. For one week. For two weeks. Until the trainee has maintained a satisfactory performance level for one week and then monitor her performance for one year. Until the trainee has maintained a satisfactory performance level for two weeks.

44.

If a trainee's performance drops after the trainee is transferred to the production department the instructor should: a. b. c. d. Work with the trainee to help her improve. Tell the supervisor that the trainee is not doing well and needs help. Tell the training supervisor that the trainee is not doing well. Tell the trainee that it is up to her now to do well and that if she does not improve she will be fired.

45.

If an instructor has a good idea for improving the method on a job, she should: a. b. c. d. Try out the new method herself. Get a trainee to use the new method. Discuss the method change with the production supervisor. Discuss the method change with the training supervisor.

46.

The most effective way for an instructor to ensure good quality is: a. b. To teach the correct methods of doing the job. To watch the trainee's methods and immediately correct any wrong methods until the instructor is confident the trainee can produce good work. To have the trainee fix her own repairs as soon as possible so that the trainee becomes quality conscious. Page 155 of 160 KSA Technopak

c.

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47.

The main purpose of intermediate targets is: a. b. c. d. To give the trainee easier targets so she can complete an exercise even if she cannot reach the normal target. To give the trainee a goal to aim for during a session on an exercise even when she is a long way from the normal target. To give each trainee a different set of targets because everyone has different abilities. To let each trainee select her own targets so she can progress at her own pace.

48.

If work is running low on an operation and it looks as if there will not be enough to keep the trainee busy, the instructor should: a. b. c. d. Let the trainee go home. Tell the bundle boy to bring all the available work to the training centre and not let the production operator have it. Inform the supervisor so she can make arrangements to transfer one or more of her operators to keep the balance of work. Inform the training supervisor so he can make the necessary arrangements.

49.

When a trainee still repeats the same mistake after being told by the instructor several times how to do it correctly, the instructor should: a. b. c. d. Tell the trainee again and stay with her to check that she is doing it correctly. Tell the trainee that if she does not follow instructions she will have to be terminated. Sit down and do the job herself for five or ten minutes so the trainee can see how it should be done correctly. Tell the trainee that she does not have to use the standard method if she finds a way of doing it more easily herself.

50.

If a trainee gets discouraged by her progress and threatens to quit, the instructor should: a. b. Go easy on the trainee and let her do the exercises she wants to do without timing. Ignore her. Page 156 of 160 KSA Technopak

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c. d. 51.

Inform the personnel department to start another person to replace the trainee. Point out to the trainee how successful she has been so far and encourage her to do just a little better.

An AAMT instructors main job is to: a. b. c. Be an authority on production methods. Help a trainee reach a designated success level. Support production by acting as a resource for new trainees and operators needing support, and provide a written source of methods documentation. Make sure that only good operators work for the company.

d.

52. Maintaining accurate and consistent written documentation of a trainee's progress: a. b. c. Is a nice touch but mostly unnecessary. Is important for maintaining the trainee's morale and progress on his/her training curve and planning the trainee's program. Is important to help maintain the trainee's moral, help the instructor plan programming for the trainee, and provide management with information. Is a requirement of AAMT training.

d.

53.

When starting to retrain an operator, an instructor should first: a. b. c. d. Observe the operator working, make notes about her method, take single cycle timings, and observe production conditions. Introduce yourself and explain what you are going to do. Observe the operator without his/her knowledge to help you plan the retraining program. Discuss the operator's performance with other operators.

54.

S.A.M s:

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a. b. c. d. 55.

Is a great place to get pizzas and Italian food Is a shortened way to say standard allowed minutes. Is a secret code used to confuse production operators. All of the above.

A production routing expresses time values for each operation in Standard Allowed Hours (SAH). To convert to Standard Allowed Minutes, you: a. b. Multiply by 60. Divide by 60.

c. Take the square root. d. Ask the supervisor for help. 56. A properly developed production rate includes: a. b. c. d. 57. Raw cycle time with a grade factor and allowances. Only time the needle is moving plus allowances. A special factor the engineer pulls out of his/her head. Single cycle time, PF & D and the Bean factor.

When a trainee gets discouraged, an instructor should: a. b. c. d. Ignore signs of discouragement. Tell the trainee to get a life. Ask why he/she is discouraged and offer encouragement. Report matters to the area supervisor for discipline.

58.

AAMT instructor training has been: a. Confusing, demanding, and a great challenge.

b. A walk in the park. c. The dumbest thing I have ever done.

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ANSWER SHEET FOR INSTRUCTORS QUESTIONNAIRE

1 C 2 D 3 C 4 C 5 D 6 B 7 B 8 B 9 C 10 C 11 C 12 A 13 D 14 A 15 C 16 B 17 A 18 B 19 C 20 C 21 D 22 A 23 B 24 B 25 D 26 C 27 C 28 B UNDP

30 D 31 B 32 A 33 D 34 B 35 C 36 B 37 D 38 A 39 D 40 C 41 A 42 D 43 C 44 A 45 D 46 B 47 B 48 C 49 A 50 D 51 C 52 C 53 B 54 B 55 B 56 A 57 C Page 159 of 160 KSA Technopak

29 D

58 A

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