You will close the liquid line service valve and operate the compressor manually till all

refrigerant is "pumped down" into condensing unit (suction pressure falls below and maintains less than 0 psig. Then close the suction service valve, remove and cap all unit connections. Disconnect electrical, etc. This requires technician certification by the EPA per refrigerant handling practices. If you are not certified and do this anyway, I guess it is better than just cutting the lines and releasing refrigerant into the air

OPERATING DEFECTS
The air conditioning system will not operate at all: power may be off, controls may be improperly set, or the system may be inoperative. (Confirm that the system has electrical power and that all of its control switches and thermostat are set to "on" and "cooling" positions. The air conditioning system operates but does not produce cool air, or not enough cool air. Check air flow with air flow meter. The air conditioning system operates but there is not enough cool air flow at the registers. Check air flow with air flow meter. The compressor was short-cycling, that is, turning itself on and off rapidly, perhaps every few seconds or minutes rather than producing a normal on-cycle of 10 minutes or longer. The compressor was noisy, during startup, indicating an operating problem. A lack of oil, without correction will cause compressor failure. The compressor squealed at startup, indicating that service may be needed promptly to prevent possibly costly damage to the system. This repair/maintenance item should not be deferred. Inside cooling or evaporator coil defects that can be seen by eye: dirty coil, blocked coil, frost on the coil, improperly sized evaporator coil, improper evaporator or cooling coil placement in the system. Air flow across the air conditioning evaporator coil: if airflow is weak for any reason (dirty coil, duct system defects, blower fan defects, dirty blower squirrel cage fan), the air conditioning system will not operate properly.

The Fast Check Chart---CHART

Click On Picture to Enlarge Some experts write that there should be between 350 and 400 cubic feet of air per minute (CFM) moving across the evaporator (cooling) coil for each ton of air conditioner capacity. One ton = 12,000 BTUH so if your AC unit is a 24,000 BTUH unit it is a "two ton" unit and needs to see 700 to 800 CFM of air across the evaporator coil. Some home inspectors and air conditioning service technicians carry a small airflow meter that can actually measure this number with fair accuracy. The same tool is nice for comparing air flow and balancing air flow at various building supply ducts and registers.

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Evaporator coil cleaning often requires cutting refrigerant lines, removal of the coil and other components for cleaning, and reinstallation, pulling a vacuum on the refrigerant lines, and recharge with refrigerant. Such service and repair may involve significant expense, although there are some "in place" cleaning methods using foams and sprays that are a simpler procedure. Dirty air conditioning filters, - a source of increased operating costs. Very dirty filters can eventually block the fan itself, leading to more costly repairs. The filters should be changed monthly when the system is in use. Failure to properly filter dust from the return air supply can load the fan or evaporator coil with dust and prevent

proper system operation. Installing a filter is normally a minor expense. Dirty, blocked evaporator coils can result in improper system operation, very low output temperatures, low air flow (compensated sometimes by increased fan speed), and sometimes frost on the coil and failure of system components. The air conditioner fuse keeps blowing or the circuit breaker trips: could mean a compressor which needs repair or replacement, or it could mean a problem with the unit's electrical wiring, such as use of aluminum wiring combined with bad electrical connections. Check the condition of the electrical circuit first (that's cheaper than a new air conditioning compressor) and then check the condition of the compressor. A serious fire hazard could be present.

Lost Cooling Capacity To diagnose & repair an Air Conditioner system which has lost cooling capacity. Check air flow, Filters, Have the compressor discharge and suction pressures checked-normally R-22-is-highside 175-lbs. low side 75-lbs.

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COMPRESSOR CONDENSER problems with air conditioner compressor condenser

units.

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Typical outside air-cooled A/C compressors require a minimal clearance around the unit to provide adequate air flow so that the condenser coils will be cooled efficiently.
INSTALLATION ERRORS

Air conditioning compressor/condenser units mounted too close to a wall, surrounded by shrubs, or multiple units located too closely together may not receive enough cool air flow to function properly. The result can be a shorter compressor life and/or less efficient cooling operation. Typical outside air-cooled A/C compressors require a minimal clearance around the unit to provide adequate air flow so that the condenser coils will be cooled efficiently. Air conditioning compressor/condenser units mounted too close to a wall, surrounded by shrubs, or multiple units located too closely together may not receive enough cool air flow to function properly. The result can be a shorter compressor life and/or less efficient cooling operation.
CONDENSING COIL FINS

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If the condensing coil fins are extensively bent and damage, airflow across the coil is impeded, causing the same failures and operating cost issues described above for the compressor too close to the building wall. When coil fins are sufficiently damaged as to be mostly blocked, the coil is not useable and needs replacement. Minor A/C coil fin damage can be repaired using special "combs" sold for that purpose A/C supply and some hardware companies sell coil fin straightening combs, but if your coil is as horrible as this one it needs replacement.
COMPRESSOR NOISES diagnosing and curing a noisy air conditioner compressor unit

Loose hardware: Air conditioner compressor noise could be due simply to loose hardware such as a loose shipping bolt, tubing, or a broken spring. Does the noise sound like a metallic rattle? A visual inspection for loose hardware may help diagnose this condition. Sometimes a shipping bolt may have been left in the unit and could be the source of a rattle. Loose refrigerant tubing or a bend in tubing that carries it too close to the air conditioner frame or case can lead to rattling that is easily corrected with a careful bend. BEWARE of both the chance of electrical shock and of injury from moving compressor parts like the cooling fan which can easily chop off a finger. Homeowners should not attempt to open, disassemble, or repair an air conditioner compressor as special training and safety procedures are needed to avoid injury. Refrigerant flood-back: Air conditioning compressor noise could also be due to refrigerant liquid "flood back" into the compressor crankcase. If this is the problem the noise will appear only at the interval of compressor start-up. That's why it's useful to be right at the compressor unit when the air conditioning system is first turned-on. If this is the problem, a low cost repair might work: a crankcase heater can be installed to address this defect. Oil leaks: Another source of cooling system compressor noise is a low oil condition in the compressor unit. Low oil may be diagnosed perhaps by observing evidence of compressor oil leakage on or around the unit. Modern residential air conditioning compressors are usually a hermetically sealed unit; it would be abnormal to ever see oil loss around this equipment. (But don't mistake spilled oil from lubricating an electric motor or cooling fan bearing for a refrigerant or compressor oil loss.) Checking air conditioner oil level: A few residential air conditioning compressors and many commercial systems provide an oil sight glass to permit a visual check of oil levels. On those units, when the compressor is running the oil level on the sight gauge should read 1/2 to 3/4 full. If adding oil to a commercial unit, be careful not to add too much. Both too much or too little oil can cause compressor noises. On a residential

compressor which is usually a hermetically-sealed motor, it is not possible to see the oil level nor to add oil. Normal squeals Normal air conditioner compressor squealing: Some compressors emit a high pitched noise during normal operation or just at startup. Humming air conditioning compressor motors, particularly if the motor is slow to start or does not start at all, may indicate that the starting capacitor needs replacement. Clanking or banging air conditioner compressor noises, at least the costly ones, are usually due to a loose connecting rod, piston pin, crankshaft, or other internal part. Since compressors on most modern commercial and residential air conditioning systems are a sealed unit, the only repair is to replace this (costly) part.
HARD STARTING how to fix an air conditioner compressor motor that won't start.--A "hard start kit" is basically a capacitor which gives an extra electrical "jolt" to the compressor motor to get it moving. A starter relay may also need to be installed or replaced. Some air conditioning compressor brands do not usually need a hard start kit. See his photo, and wiring diagram, for air conditioner compressor, fan, and blower.

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TIGHT OR SEIZED AC COMPRESSOR To diagnose a compressor that needs replacement. Sometimes a compressor may be internally damaged or worn in a way that makes the piston's) run tight in the cylinder's) rather than loose and worn (loose or worn air conditioner compressor. A tight or seized air conditioner compressor might occur, for example, if the compressor ran while low on oil. Or perhaps if the compressor is old and has not been run in some time. The A/C compressor may refuse to start at all, or may be hard-starting depending on when it last ran and what it's temperature is. A "hard starting" "tight" air conditioner compressor will probably draw excessive current (Amps) during startup. Compressor Protection Delay Timer These small Compressor Protectors will time out for the time you set them to after a power surge. When your power goes out but then comes right back on, the compressor hasn't had the time for it's high internal pressures to " Equalize ". The compressor needs about 5 minutes off before trying to re start. User time adjustable or fixed.

They install by cutting one of your thermostat wires that goes to your contactor coil. Simply join one end to one terminal and the other end to the other terminal. Instructions included.

COMPRESSOR PRESSURE READINGS The usual system pressures in an air conditioner or heat pump. Low-side air conditioner compressor motor pressure: this is the pressure in the air conditioner's refrigerant suction line (low side pressure) and this will be a relatively low number, often less than 100 psi. During operation the refrigerant is returning to the compressor from the cooling (evaporator) coil in this line. The low-side of an air conditioning system is always located inside of the space to be cooled, or inside of an air handler which moves air through the space to be cooled. By lowering the pressure in the cooling coil located on the "low side" of the air conditioning system, the compressor permits liquid refrigerant to be discharged into the cooling coil where the change of refrigerant state from a liquid to a gas that absorbs heat and brings the cooling coil to the proper operating temperature. High-side air conditioner compressor pressure: Output (high side pressure during operation) is the pressure of the compressed refrigerant gas as it leaves the compressor motor. This refrigerant gas returns to the compressor through the suction line from the cooling coil (which is cooling building air). The low-pressure refrigerant gas is compressed to a high-pressure refrigerant gas inside the compressor motor. This high temperature refrigerant gas is then cooled down to condense into a refrigerant liquid before it is returned indoors to the air handler and evaporator coil to be used to cool building air. (Thus the name "condensing coil" and "condensing unit" or "condenser" for the outside half of an air conditioning system.) The high side components of an air conditioning system, such as the compressor, condensing coil, and fan unit used to cool the condensing coil are located outside of the conditioned or refrigerated space. BACK TO TOP BURNED-OUT COMPRESSOR A compressor motor that is burned out. When a sealed compressor motor has "burned out" this means that the internal wiring of the motor has become irreparably damaged: the compressor motor windings may be burned

and shorted together or shorted to the steel shell of the motor, or the windings may have burned and simply become "open" or disconnected. If the motor has burned out in either of these ways it needs to be replaced. When an air conditioning compressor has "burned out" by shorting of internal components - it will not start. This failure is detected by disconnecting all power and wiring from the unit and measuring resistance (ohms) between the motor start/common and run/common terminals. If there is zero resistance the winding is open or broken. If you measure the resistance across a compressor winding and your meter's needle is stuck over at infinity on a digital meter, that would indicate the compressor winding is open. The same effect can be observed from simply connecting the meter to absolutely nothing. If the resistance measured across the air conditioning compressor winding is too close to 0 ohms, it's shorted. The compressor should blow the fuse or trip the circuit breaker when power is turned back on. But watch out: Some field reports of equipment burn ups and even fires when the air conditioning circuit breaker for the compressor happens to be an old FPE Stab-Lok or Zinsco unit. If there is resistance between the motor terminal and the motor casing, the motor has become shorted to ground internally and the unit needs to be replaced. If there is no resistance between the start and run terminals to common, but there is resistance between the start and run terminals, this means that the internal motor overload protection circuit is open. In this last case, allow the motor to cool and re-test it before replacing it.

REPLACING A COMPRESSOR

Installing a new air conditioner compressor. 1. Confirm that the compressor has failed and needs replacement. 2. Identify the compressor model and capacity so that a proper replacement can be obtained. 3. Shut down the air conditioning system, including turning off electrical power. 4. Shut down the air conditioning system, including turning off electrical power. 5. Remove all refrigerant from the system. 6. Procedures require that the refrigerant be captured rather than released to the environment in order to reduce environmental pollutants. 7. If the air conditioner system used a now-obsolete refrigerant such as R11 or R22, a the new compressor will be one designed to use a new, approved refrigerant and other changes may be needed to the system to accommodate this change, such as changes in thermal-expansion valves, coils, or other components. 8. Not all components need replacement, such as ducts and blower assemblies. 9. The refrigerant lines are cut and the old compressor is removed. 10. The new compressor is installed in place in the compressor, condenser unit (usually all of this equipment is located outside), and its refrigerant lines are connected (usually silver soldering) to the existing refrigerant lines. New coils or other controls may need to be cut out and replaced if the

refrigerant is being changed too. 11. A vacuum is pulled on the entire system both to evacuate all air from the refrigerant lines and compressor and to check for leaks in the system. Air contamination, if allowed to mix with the new refrigerant would change its operating characteristics and would prevent proper operation. Any water or moisture in the system is also removed and the technician may install a drier in the system to remove any trace moisture that remains behind after reassembly. 12. Refrigerant is added to the system at the proper charge amount. Residential air conditioner systems, unlike commercial units, use a hermetically sealed compressor motor and there is no separate receiver to hold a large refrigerant charge, so the charge must be measured precisely (including temperature, pressure, and volume during charging) for the system to work properly.13. Both overcharging and under-charging refrigerants will lead to improper system operation. The air conditioning system, with its new compressor installed, will be re-started and checked for proper operation.
A/C CAPACITORS A starter capacitor on an air conditioner compressor or other electric motors When an electrical motor is having trouble starting, such as an air conditioning compressor motor, blower motor, a refrigerator motor or a freezer motor, or even a fan motor, technicians may install a simple and inexpensive starting capacitor. The starting capacitor is a simple electrical device which can give an extra voltage jolt or "boost" to get the hard-starting motor spinning. The starting capacitor is a simple electrical device which can give an extra voltage jolt or "boost" to get the hard-starting motor spinning. BACK TO TOP COOLING COIL or EVAPORATOR COIL A problem at the evaporator coil can cause total loss of cooling capacity (or heating with a heat pump) A cooling coil which is blocked by debris or ice and frost, or which is damaged can obstruct air flow and reduce air conditioning system output. The air conditioning system evaporator coil and problems include ice and frost build-up, dirt or debris blocking air flow through the coil, and damaged or leaky cooling coils. DIRTY COOLING COIL When dirt and debris appear, what to do about a dirty evaporator coil. When debris sticks to and clogs the inlet side of the cooling coil in an air conditioning system. How does this happen? There was no air filter installed in the system. Ordinary house dust is comprised largely of fabric fibers and skin cells. These and other debris in building dust such as soot and organic particles like pollen and mold spores all join to form a gray mat on the fins of the cooling coil in an air handler. FROST BUILD UP Causes and cure of ice on the A/C cooling coil. In normal operation an air conditioning system is cooling air by moving it across a refrigerantcooled "evaporator coil" or "cooling coil" in the air handler. Cooling air also removes moisture from the air - a key factor in making indoor air comfortable in hot

weather. Normally the moisture that's removed from building air forms condensate on the surfaces of the cooling coil, runs down that surface to a collector pan, and is drained away. But if the air flow is too slow across the cooling coil or if the refrigerant is not being metered properly into the cooling coil, the condensate on the coil surface can form frost and may build up into a coil icing problem. REFRIGERANT LEAK REPAIR To fix air conditioning or heat pump refrigerant gas leaks. An air conditioning or heat pump system is normally completely sealed and should never "use" refrigerant. Refrigerant gases are not a substance which is "consumed" in an HVAC system. In an emergency, such as at a commercial establishment needing time to move frozen food, one might just add refrigerant, but the proper repair is to find and fix the refrigerant leak. If the refrigerant gas leak is in a valve or access port, such as the service ports to which the HVAC technician connects the gauge set, the valves there may be able to be cleaned and salvaged, or the valves may need to be replaced. Replacing a refrigerant gas service port valve is a soldering job similar to what we describe just below. You may never have to replace one of these valves but you may have to install them on a system where they are not already in place. If the refrigerant gas leak is in the air conditioning or heat pump copper tubing a repair should be easy - the damaged line is re-soldered using high silver content solder and a high temperature torch. A damaged section of refrigerant line may need to be cut out and replaced. The repair is about the same regardless of whether the leak was in the larger diameter suction line or the smaller diameter high pressure line. If the refrigerant gas leak is in the condensing coil or in the evaporator coil, repair might be possible, but less optimistic that repair is possible. BACK TO TOP HOME CONTROLS and SWITCHES air conditioner controls and switches - Begin here if your A/C won't start. Important: most refrigeration problems, in air conditioners, refrigerators, or freezers, are electrical, not mechanical. People toss out a lot of A/C's. On taking equipment back into a shop many are found that almost always the problem that had caused the owner to dispose of air conditioners or freezers was in an electrical connection or electrical control. So it's worth checking out switches and controls on an air conditioner before replacing more costly components. WHAT TO CHECK FIRST if there is no cool air or not enough cool the air Conditioner Blower fan unit may not be moving enough air: too little air coming out of your air conditioning ducts? 1. Check the condition of the blower unit: if it's dirty the blower may be spinning but not moving much air. 2. Dirty filters or iced coils or crimped or disconnected air ducts can also cause loss of cool air or too little cool air coming out of supply registers. BACK TO TOP

HOME

Check for problems with air conditioner refrigerant char ge and airflow.
Refrigerant charge is the amount or level of refrigerant in your air conditioner. The airflow

is the amount of air that is being blown by the ventilation fan, through the ductwork in your house. The more precisely an air conditioner is diagnosed for these two potential problems, the better the indoor air quality and comfort level in the home, the more efficient and less expensive the air conditioner is to operate, and the longer it will last with fewer repairs.

1. Refrigerant Level -- the Most Critical Problem

Incorrect refrigerant charge is a common problem with residential air conditioning systems across the country. Contrary to most consumers' expectations, frequently even newly installed air conditioning systems are incorrectly charged. Most Residential Air Conditioners Do Not have the Correct Refrigerant Level Since refrigerant is not consumed by the air conditioner and does not otherwise degrade; the problem of refrigerant charge in older units likely existed from the time of installation. It may also have occurred subsequent to installation as refrigerant was added or lost during service, when some traditional methods of approximating the refrigerant charge might have been used. Even New Air Conditioners may be Charged Incorrectly New air conditioners frequently have this problem because, when installing an air conditioner, tubing must be run from the outside unit to the indoor unit. Most air conditioners come from the factory charged with enough refrigerants to accommodate twenty-five feet of tubing. If the length of required tubing is less than or more than twentyfive feet, the refrigerant charge level must be adjusted to compensate for the difference in length. If the tubing length is less than twenty-five feet, then refrigerant must be removed. If the tubing length is longer than twenty-five feet, then refrigerant must be added. The Refrigerant Charge Problem is Widespread In a recent study air conditioner systems were tested for their refrigerant level. Only eighteen (18%) percent of all the units were properly charged. Seventy-eight (78%) percent of the units were under charged. While four (4%) percent were over charged. These results are consistent with previous industry research, from new home construction studies. Most Residential Air Conditioners are Charged Incorrectly Clearly, only a small percentage of air conditioners are properly charged with refrigerant. The cost is real. As little as 10% undercharge will reduce the air conditioner's capacity as much as 10%. Most Residential Air Conditioners are Wasting Energy & Money

2. Air Flow
Incorrect Air Flow Leaves Humidity or Never Sufficiently Cools the Air Almost all air conditioners are designed to have 400 cubic feet per minute of air flowing across the indoor coil of the air conditioner unit, for every ton of cooling capacity. When the airflow is more than the manufacturer's recommendation, then the humidity of the air

will tend to be high. If the airflow is less than manufacturer's recommendation, then the air conditioner will not cool the air sufficiently. Twelve different energy studies have been conducted on airflow in the past several years. Each study found that on average seventy percent (70%) of all home air conditioners have inadequate air flow. The average home air conditioner's airflow is twenty percent (20%) below the manufacturer's recommendation. Checks for these Two Critical Air Conditioner Problems Obviously, any professionally conducted air conditioner diagnosis is better than none. The more precisely an air conditioner is diagnosed, the better the indoor air quality and comfort level in the home, the more efficient and less expensive the air conditioner is to operate, and the longer it will last with fewer repairs.