the nnls Magazine

Pesach 2013

TRAVEL

A Humbling Climb Marche de la Memoire

Francesca and Graham Craig

he South of France in September; NNLS Trekkies Walking Group; a commemoration anniversary of the escape of Jews over mountain passes to comparative safety in Italy: the ingredients for a wonderful adventure. We signed up immediately. It started off without a hitch. Eric Weigert, our leader, must have been a general in a former life because the organisation was impeccable. Before we knew it, our enthusiastic group of 12 was driving up the winding mountain roads to St Martin Vsubie as the sun was setting, anxious to reach our destination. As the curves increased, so did the nausea of those in the back seats. Eric, thinking of everything, set up Kabbalat Shabbat and we lit the candles, welcomed the Sabbath, shared wine and challah and got to know each other.

The next day, Eric took us on a warmup walk in preparation for the big climb the following day. We set out, some of us trying walking sticks for the first time, all of us realising the next days climb, of more than 3,000 feet, was going to be tougher than we ever imagined. That night we were invited to join our local hosts former NNLS members Elizabeth and David Bernheim - who now live in the village. They helped to co-ordinate our joining the French and Italian walkers for the commemoration. Walking up the steep road to their house, we noticed a stream of clean mountain water that ran down the centre of the village and how the houses were typical of a mountain community in their closeness. There could be few secrets in this place. In 1943 the gigantic killing machine created by the Nazis was running on full throttle in Europe. No Jew was safe. One

exception, for a brief period, was a small town near the FrenchItalian border in the Alpes Maritimes, St Martin Vsubie, about 40 miles north of Nice. It was in a part of France that the Italians had occupied from November 1942 until September 1943. Some of its inhabitants were friendly enough to allow a few to lodge; some took pity on these strangers and rented out rooms, out-houses and barns. The Jews had travelled from many places, mainly from Eastern Europe. Their daily language was Yiddish; their clothes varied from the smart to the worn. They carried whatever valuables they still had left, leaving their homes knowing they might never return. Their routes to St Martin Vsubie varied enormously, many of them coming through French cities such as Paris. Lyon, Marseilles and Nice. Many escaped capture by the Vichy and

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Pesach 2013

the nnls magazine

other police forces by hiding, using false papers and other subterfuges. But in this small corner of France, which had been Italy until after World War One, more than 1,000 found refuge. They created a community. Classes were organised for the children; work was found if possible. Some played chess, took up boxing or piano. Others gave classes in German, English or Polish to the locals. In the summer there was work in the orchards and fields. Couples married and a few children were born. They feared this safe haven could not continue, but they hoped it would. On 25 July 1943 the Italian dictator Mussolini was deposed. At 6:30pm on 8 September, General Eisenhower announced that the Italians had agreed to an armistice. While millions of people celebrated, the inhabitants of the Alpes Martimes knew that the Germans would soon send troops to this region. They were right. Immediately the Germans seized Italian-occupied France and started to arrest the Jews in Nice and elsewhere. The Mayor of St. Martine called a meeting and advised the Jews to leave because they could no longer be protected. The Jewish village council agreed. The only possible escape routes were over mountain passes into Italy: a long, difficult climb over up the Col de Cerise (2,543m) or the Col de Fenestre (2,474m). It is believed that between 1,100 and 1,250 Jews decided to make the journey, leaving behind those who were too old or too infirm and those who thought they could stay and hide. They made their preparations as best they could, finding warm clothing, sturdy shoes (bought or stolen), sticks to use as climbing poles and hats to protect them from the cold and sun. On 9 and 10 September 1943 they set off in small groups. Some carried suitcases; some carried babies and small children who werent strong enough to walk. Few were able to train for the climb, although they had been urged to do so by the young men who had explored the mountains to find the routes. Everyone knew the climb would be difficult, even if they were fortunate enough not to encounter soldiers out to capture them. They carried as much food as they could and relied on mountain streams for water. Luckily on the first two nights there was no rain; the mountain passes were

Some carried suitcases; some carried babies and small children who werent strong enough to walk.
slippery enough without it, but it was bitterly cold. The first part of the trip was the easiest. It was about 12km to a hamlet along a mule track. Some spent the first night in a former inn for religious pilgrims, others in a carabinieri barracks. Most slept in the open. The second day was worse. They were now above the tree line with no visible trail, climbing over steep and jagged boulders. Some had to be helped by the stronger climbers. Others had to abandon precious possessions weighing them down. The average length of the journey was three days, although some took longer. Sadly, not all made it. An estimated 340 were captured and sent to Drancy and then to Auschwitz. Some years ago, the Marche de la Memoire began in order to remember those Jews who made it over the mountains into Italy and their brethren who didnt. As we started the climb, we could not help but think of those Jews whose steps we traced. We were all outfitted in the best technological gear of 2012, yet some of us still struggled with the steep, uneven terrain. With each Buddha-like meditative

step we took, we were humbled by the thought of our fellow Jews making the same journey with so much less. While we feared falling, they feared for their lives. The French climbed next to us, but not with us. Our small English group spurred each other on and with each step became closer and more supportive. As we walked we noticed an older couple. The man was stronger and would walk ahead and then pause and wait for his wife climbing slowly but steadily, with one large stick. We spoke to the man who had emigrated from Australia to the South of France several years ago. He told us that he and his wife did this walk every year, but this year his wife wasnt able to train for it. As we progressed up the mountain, we would see him periodically waiting for his wife. She made it and so did we slowly, slowly. The last few hundred yards were particularly steep and the boulders exceptionally treacherous. It took us four hours or more. When we reached the summit there were several hundred people. Most had climbed our route, but a sizeable number had walked up from the Italian side. Everyone came together at the pass the Col de la Cerise - for a picnic lunch and a ceremony to commemorate the escape of 1943. Talks were given in French and Italian; some were translated into English. Prayers were conducted in Hebrew by the exhausted rabbi of Nice. Two locals, who had been children in 1943, related their memories of the exodus and its aftermath. The sun shone, but it was still cold on this September midday. Most of the NNLS Trekkies made the seven mile walk down to Italy to spend the night in a spa town and then walk back over another mountain pass to St. Martin Vsubie the next day. Some of us overcame fear of height; others dealt with knee problems, asthma, exhaustion and muscle soreness. But travelling with us was the image of our fellow Jews in 1943 making the very same journey. How fortunate we were to be free and able to trace their steps. http://www.facebook.com/ MarcheDeLaMemoire http://marchedelamemoire.wordpress If you are interested in participating in the 2013 Marche de Memoire which will be on Sunday September 1st, contact Eric Weigert - 020 8445 0468 or e.mail weigert@btinternet.com

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