TWO IN ONE TIE & DYE FABRIC

T S N REDDI, WEAVERS SERVICE CENTRE, HYDERABAD.

Most of the single series of warp and weft fabrics are woven with plain and structural designs. If the designs are woven structural designs , one side warp design will be prominent and the other side will be weft. But the basic design will be the same. In double series of warp/weft fabrics also the basic design will be the same on the both side of the fabric.

Pochampally village in Nalgonda District of Andhra Pradesh is famous for Tie & Dye (IKAT) weaving of Sarees, Furnishings and Dress Materials. In Tie & Dye Fabrics are woven on Plain weave, so that one on each side design will be the same. Weavers Service Centre, Hyderabad has developed Furnishings , Bed sheets, Durries in Tie & Dye Designs with two different figures one on each side of the Fabric called TWO IN ONE TIE & DYE FABRIC. Two in one Tie & Dye Fabric is woven on Handloom by Backed cloth technique. The significance of this fabric is the appearance of two different figures one on each side of fabric. It may be wonder to lay man that how a single fabric is woven with two different figures appearing on each side. DESIGN PREPARATION The two designs (figures) which are to be woven are drawn on plain paper as usual manner. For example Duck & Bomakai bird ( Duck figure is meant for Face side and Bomakai bird figure for back side of the fabric).These drawn figures on plain paper are to be enlarged in Graph paper separately taking into consideration the size of the figure to be woven in both length & width wise as per Ends per inch and Picks per inch .If the design is required in warp wavy two warps are to be prepared, as usual in Tie & Dye preparation method. In the same way two designs are to be prepared for weft way designs. WEAVING PROCESS 1. WARP TIE & DYE DESIGNS In this process of weaving Multi treadle Loom with Minimum 8 shafts and 4 Treadles are required. The Tie & Dye prepared warp ends are drawn 1:1 ratio on 8 Shafts and 4 ends to be drawn 4 in dent in Reed (i.e. one warp for face Fabric anther for back side) and woven with single shuttle with following Weaves shown in fig 1& 2 * * * * * x * * x x * * * * * x * * * x

* * * * x * * x

* *

Fig 1 2. WEFT TIE & DYE DESIGNS

Fig 2

In this process of weaving Multi treadle Loom with Minimum 4 shafts and 8 Treadles are required. The warp ends are drawn on 4 shafts and 2 ends to be drawn in a dent in Reed. The two Weft tie and dye designs prepared are to be

wounded on pirn separately and woven with two shuttles on 1 : 1 ratio in Twill/Satain weave (i.e. one weft for face Fabric anther for back side) and woven with single with following Weaves shown in fig3 & 4.

x * * * x * * x * x * * Fig 3 * * Fig 4 * * * * x * * x * * * x * *

x *

Advantages: 1. Two different figures in one cloth, one on each side will appear and useful for Bed sheet, Furnishing ,Table cloth, Room divider and Durries It is an ordinary single cloth weaving for warp way tie and designs.

2.

TWO IN ONE TIE & DYE DURRY(WEFT)

TWO IN ONE TIE & DYE BED SHEET(WARP)

TWO IN ONE TIE & DYE DURRY(WEFT)

TWO IN ONE TIE & DYE BED SHEET(WARP)

TWO IN ONE TIE & DYE DURRY(WEFT)