Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
650/670
THE
SINGER
COMPANY
SI N GE R*
ODLDEN
Panoramic
You will be able to follow the latest international fashion
CONGRATULATIONS .... on vour dmoice of a top quality fullNth atured Singer Se wina machine With it you will be able to create beautifully aJlored clothing for your entire family, as welI as handsome decorative addiions to your home. The advantages built into this fine precision machine can be fully enjoyed and appreciated only if you vonipletely undiersand how to properly operate both the maddine and its versatile iccessories. BEFORE YOU SEW please go through this instruction book, page by page while seated at our machine Examine each section and perform each tFo; peration in the sequence shown ,
These few n roitcs of careful preparation will thoroughly familiarise ou xih the full range of the machine's capabilities You can then proceed confidently with whatever fashion creation or other sewing project you may wish to acconplish. .Sewing Congratulations again on your wise choice of the Singer machine that will prove to you for many years to come WIAT'S NEW FOR TOMORROW IS AT SINGER TODAY I
S I NGER* sevce
Whatever you are, you will find expert. dependable Singer Service avallable. II your Sewing Machne should need servicing, call your nearest Singer Sewing Centre to be sure of warranted Singer Parts and Service, You
will find the address directory. in the telephone
~Natd
In W600,IeriOrmany
Contents
WSeEipao 86 No lnuexj
Pane
I. A
6 -9
Sewing
Snujtht >iitdnnq
Imotmlsomt
.22
Page
0 8
Sour stthunq P,luan l and Dmmnrtvo f Stcii....32 l lrai sto NirhMir S','d
v i A
31 3 12 1t3, 70
Sesinq Light. ...... 7, 4 Reov al dud Ri~aesnee A fh'tomtl' Ci, i at Xpplw only to ) Lhn i. -
2n,7Zoo
iton,
(Steld stitdd
SI
>t I
nhos. 1
1 to 32
,.
tltslnit
.3
4
362
sltlofn o
h"I
, 17
1 itH
[T , lliq
i
57
7l 2 46
Ipl Huldold
t
(I(t
1h"
If~ 1 1'.1
mI! T,
ItQ'0w
ld 1,t A
62
61, 64
A
it1 NO1
Sa1
I mlld3 Sco'o',
p-~~~)
.,]
up11
m1
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oI r
77.5
Al
26
SINGER 6f0
1,A
ei~
D lra
lt
'ai
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
4i
SINGER 650
For 670 Madcine only 30 Cloth Plate Disengaging Button 3! Attachment Box Lid 32 Detachable Cloth Plate S
.e jric ODive
Before setting the machine into operation, be surf, itat the voltage and cycles stamped on the el+ctrical nmelate B are within th rariyf marked otn the e-kc-ric meter in lti[ied by the +local poIr Company To plur in the macdtin, push 3-pin terminal p t uq C uilt( 3pim terminal blok at the right end of nmddne Then connect plug A to lectriadl outlet
0
A
Foot Controller
1hhe toot controller sets the imactune into opiration and requlates its speed The harder you press the pedal D, the aster
the madchne will sew ntitl the mnachine reaches its top speed
r,l J
,' , l i
p 'd jfwj, i; T , ,' f Io? ,*s .p'1w i' ho 1[[ , {'j,'. <i w t'I, .a ' t l, "M IN " ]tif . , p /:, , n 1 / fic r~friq, ,! fdidll,1:, w -I <ci up ql l p ,Vl i "I hl[ P iiott ,in , ]"
r1
operl
rq
liii>
m l
tii~hl
>*!,1' lJ 3
Il''<
...
Wm in.
MD
The builtin sewing light is turned on or off by means of light switch F. which is localed beneath the arm top cover lid
I
/1
Unlocks
Locks
Bulb pin B
Aiiil!i
Machim only).00
In case that you do not have any experience in sewing with treadle drive - first it is necessary to become familiar with this type of drive. Loosen stop motion screw and place both feet on treadle,
Turn hand wheel over toward you, allowing feet to move freely and lightly with motion of treadle. Practise this motion until you are able to re-start machine with hand wheel turning over toward yea Then tighten stop motion screw for normal machine drive.
To Replace Belt
Remove
parjeA 83).
arm
top cover
(as described
on
.
Inert end of belt into cutout A and lead to tPpo that it enters groove in hand wheel, Lead belt around hand wheel and down tihrough guide of treadle belt idler pulley bl-acket B. Lead belt around band wheel in cabinet Join b:th ends of belt by means of belt clip. Ten. sion Do belt should be only heavy enough to ke.p belt front shipping
Replace arm top) Cover.
13
Information for 650 G 14 end G 15 Machine with Selective Motor and Treadle Drive
The 650 G 14 and G 15 madcines are equipped with a special hand wheel, which can be used for motor and treadle drive, Therefore, both machine models can be dcanged either to treadle or electric drive additionally. When changing over from treadle drive to electric drive, the belt has to be removed from the band wheel or the cabinet by throwing off toward cabinet wall.
Stitch Plaftiw
Selectors
TI
stilh , " , i w1 macline .dt
i. pattern of your
Setting for Straight stltdng: AK Zigzag stltching: HIL Many (omb nbai ons are possible for decoralive sewing and practical sewing. Some of hese combinalions are shown on the stitch chart inside the cover on top of machine. This cover may be left open while sewing.
00
Sti
Width SleCtor
You will ao need to el the lever for sewing. The stitch width selector does two jobs: traiehit stitdiing, rih: lever 5CR fil *~ Pe n}!t--Ie p i~o)iin irenre, riht or lefi] Normnatty, you will use setting 3 (centrej. Therelore, memorize the normal setting for straight stitching: AK3. * For zirigz stilt crin, this lever tontrots the setting of the width
11!
Th
tn
1--
(bI
y,,I dire( t or.
eto
did I ir ini
The numpr,]rdisn itlher side nwuan: Lelt hand side (20-61: Nun her of stitches per inch. Right hand side ( - 4): Stitch length in millimeters A slojertliii <*r!nro4 can be made in case of sti, len(l,!i k.,, bIarn 1 mm or 20 stitches per ilh The m -Vh iti length 4 min (6 stitches per inc-!1 (an bc lndked in place whIer, satId ong Lids, plvat or muoltpie lavers ol heavy
fabric,
j1Unlock
...
22ocks
12
1 !!F ll% 1 ,, Ti
;,. [ h illlli,
-1- '~~ P , Q !
i;1
~~iii
)il
":
Itr
pl
b, ,
ASuihTrotPat ~~ ~ ~ ~
Chai
I,
q%~,
i>Il t
St!itc r ,
Th
4 Fied
I I' -
(pover
Plate
T D Il I l,[ t } " ll 7 *
.I , d
Ik
,r,
/ser
[a
-
-.
to its highest pr)si-ion b. When raising )rcsser foot li ter !ever into position 2 you t.ust overcome t spring pressure and keep the lifter le.eri n position since it does not lock in th ; pc.s;tion; but when released tle spring pressure returns the lifter lever ir.to position I1 Be sure that the presser foot Iter lever i; set i position 3 before sewmCi md not left iit po-Ition I in error.
14
operations
S-eissure Dial
I,dial regulates the pressure that the presso' foo exerts on the fabtic, Smooth, even hond!inn of several thicknesse, of fabric To unts when pressure is correctly regulated. I _,,ivv press r, is for thick fabric and light p) e(tS is tor thin fabric, Tor light a pressure will result in irregular Peoring which affects both quality of stitch ,.n I evtn'rss of seams. he I ressure not only affects Silth , boavY iV SePe I thedl Y out will also mar smooth 1aces daiJ pile fabrics. Sii fare 1inish, ds well as the weight and ,, lure o the fabric, must be considered in J <mli nig the amount of presstre needed,
To incr.aso t-.t %vtt: I urn cia! to right hand side t h gh -h2 ,it be*) To dnc.erise : furn Co;A diql to left hand T, Site (to tel Fr icetatled invtruc,.-z
-pages
27 a.d 28
15
',
To Chlrmn
h i
[tiet Needle
f Ii l [ Zh 'I Il I/ I k I I1 1 11 V 1 I I
ttitl< N ull tl
w I >H
iArd
i' I
i, S m+ I,
I't.
i, + 1
I"I
Thread
S_
Simsis
Needle
Straight Stitahig
per n
Macline Stltches
mdi
mm
Delicate-
tlle,
60 matreivoed
100 Cotton
IS to 20
1-1-5
plastic
pin~ie
Medium Weight inrquhma, manmade atbri, pique, liben, ddatz, faille, satin, fine corduroy, snitfalls, cortn-barked plastc
to I
15
Medium Heavy -
tweed, sailcloth, denim, coatings, furnishing fabrcst60 Heavy - overcoatings, twill, upholstery fabrics, canvas ) Does not apply to cdainstltchig.
gabardine,
40 Mercerized
40
n Cotton
1 toC 12
2-2,5
30 Mercerized 24 to 40 Cotton
18
a to 10
2,5-1
16
.S~po~ol...odr
S;
ofU(
1d-
1 d2A~~ I if
r3 Iu
I fqtr
d 'j ... uI
Bobbin Thread
":
It
lever and remove bobbin fron, bobbin winder spindle. 4 Tighten stop motion screw with :ight hand in direction shown by arrow while 'holding
direction shown. 2 Place bobbin in case. Lead thread into slot and under tension spring. 3 Draw thread into notch at end of spring
pulling off about 8 cm (3 inches) of threac across the bobbin..
.......... .4
lei
~N
rTT
19
Upper Throading
11,
s"
1:4>
(iI'
}
ItI
iiI
2O.
20
r
(1
h~l l
T 1[i ' !
ii ,
)1'{'
Ii, i ,' i ..
at , t ,, (:: "i,1 [ ii! thiq Iii ....
3N
dA
I1 '), 1 k
d's i
!!][2!l % iti11i-
I ]vll , th t.
, <id t
1, ,1 t
~A
Removal and Replacement of
Threading Hook ([}] i!] or; 4)
To Remove Threading Ifook Sw inq (dI)n0 uc f feilltreaidvi a. d, wkie~q mIvfn n t tO1< i, Push rear right angle edge of hook against threader and li hteer scrcw,
t
r teei t{, U [h ,. r it> )11> I1I' I (n 1 sthuw;rl itI ritlll,' I ,ittlld 'rl\ S\%. t'r 1 1i1irlie 1[ mioo o Wl k Iwo
1
Cv.',~t'
To Replace Threading Ihook d Ineedle r P[{~~~ilm ] ,:,i iodi, I P!:csiliorl ihlr~airtqi ti:,>o k b lw't' tihrenol >t't Oft) to nocdli> ttsresvle. Aliqn the h in th, hook an n, mes needl ,,l re d ;r, RepI >c
1 1(0,
11
ih!.7
11
WI)
"- .
Intel
11"-,
'Idd
nit w
tret]
the
ti er
sd:
by
3 ..
m..
21
Straight Stitching
Settings a e Fittings
t* 4, atlern selectors at AK (straight stitching) and tihe slit(h width Whcn sett not 1 centre needle position) you can use the following two types of ctt, selector a .( equipment,
1purpose
presser foot.
i
(" MqO:curate
2.
stitchpresserfoot.
2.
straight stitching is required, when stitching sheer and flimsy fabrics. This equipment requires stitch width selec-
4 S
3 4
*
5 S
To meet special requirements, you may wish to place a line of stitching to the left or right of center. You must use the general purpose throat plate and presser foot in this case (equipment I). Stitoh width selector setting I places sitithing Stto the left; setting 5 places it to the righng Intermediate settings may also be used. Raise needle above fabric before moving selectors.
22
1- Hold needle thread li jlP I With left hand (thread above i resse fool). Turn haf,. wheel slowly toward you so that needle enters throat plate.
2. Continue holding needle thread and uir ruing hand whet I until r oedle rises ant brings up bobbin thread in a loop. Pull the needle thread to raise the loop to the eye of the needle.
A./
A
4. Place both needle and bobbin threads diagonally under presser foot, making sure bobbin thread is located in the rear thread guide of the bobbin case.
23
4,
Sewing a Seam
Set stitch lenqtIh regulalor tor tildl lhenqbh d(esr(d and needle thread hnsion to a mTrdium value,
\.ith presser foot raised align fabric %,ih appropiriate seam lgude line orn the throAt ;.ite.Poitin eede ito!abcibout inch c co(I flIroim the rar edge,
Lower the presser foot Set stitc lenIth ( reqULiter to revverse and badglitdh to end lfImndleridl loti{iliior(>
0.
24
Guiding and Supporting Fabric \lo.ohnc-!s !ed o be juidod in fronit of the p uesser foot only.
Thte, quidelmh e )f Ilit hrlid plwte are ,I moons to kevp the sedui straflbt, fhe OTOwni",I )T the oppo(site jill> strnt"on. Iu eqXtra , m[!'A of 'b~ric It is best k t-e s,.tti quld(, dhzcrnbed on polqe 6Of
VI
hi
!rt 1ii
dO Vs
<jit,
Os hi,
Iftiri
to
pi-t C
!no,> (n
pu~ke~n
o
In thins
0> hold
'VII
I ,1 i
the sIt,~ l tik f 1Foil 'hmlhd I" nsett 50~~~~~~a' t >t> ((l Inr.
t,
p,,no
25
Stitch to edge ot fabric to complete seam. Set stitch length regulator to reverse and backstitch some vhata to reinforce end of seam.
Turn hand whi el to bring take-up lever to its highest point. Thise presser foot and remove fabric,
WCut
both thread on built-in thread cutter, as ... hReset stitdi Hstitching. length regulator Pn rwovrd
-H..
1 .
To
cthtWin
'J
-'w needle an .1
of te sewn q
To ieter ninno correot iensh m seftiig, Sew a NO Wan, NI a s;-mple Nyr rniWediurnoole j <(Ld tension Iapp4ox 41. IH thi t[id sia~an uoWS an in
I u can ydjust the needle thread tension as lfolows.
irbmhw by u<siiq
*;crrot appCaflaCQe,
/ g
I
1: the thread bi ,ps lie on the underside of the thread tension is too loose, tIie ee , eto i ci r by tu,:i,,l the tension dial to higher (o numfe-,
thread boos lie on tne upper surface I needle threazi tension is too sear, Co( ct b tutnino tension dial to - u- be>
-I
hwr dloIwd tonusla n In nwrllum valueo i'nd IfCWhorial
I<5
sham
fI I Ii rl '
< $i
ll
* /
0c70 o f th, ,r
l ire
1
'I
6t 70 w
1 i )
hVt~ ti!
1H l
I-r
1111 m
boo iJ~ I
28
Zig-Zag Stitching
The ziq-zarl fn
Of 51itdtl patterns Sowle pattlerns arc, puel{y de coratie dand will give
to your clothes and your home whie others are used for practical purpoe>, as Well H( 1rr * re socre examples
The plain zig-zag stitch is used for buttonholes, UltODn sewlng, Seamll liruslng, apDfique work etc The multiple stitch zig-?ag is well suited for fatlning] elaslic anrd for all types, of household mnending
Mi
V V V V V V V
for producing
The overedged seam is appropriate for tuse II ptoducil u and finishing of seans in elasticizedl fabricS
The stitch patteorns are prodiied oithor fronm the hlIttrn discs or fromI the itteirhangeable siti'al discs. A geat variedt f aiditiulal s3tit f patterns tcan be obtained by- combining
built-in discs with special discs
;456
stitch patterns
29
Stitch Pattern Selectors at B L S t 1,r tir, .... .nt . the zig-zag stitch; Sclettir sett; B , s fh nte edle posh lto)1 (coiltreo Stitch Width Selector: 2-5 The stitch width selector controls the st,tdc a idth (Refer to page It.). The settings iraaf from a maximum of 5 to a minuimum of 2.
Raise needle above fabric before morving stitdc pattern or stitch width selectors
at AL
AL.
Ut Palt-rn Selectors al B L centre needle po-iticon
BL
S;~t~n th ttern Selectors at C L right needle position. Left and right neaedle positions are oniy effective at stitch widths loss than 5. Selector setting B is generally preferred. Settings A and C are only used when special placement of stitidnng is detsired. For example, Buttonholes, button sewing 30
Satin Stitching
Satin stitchinog a stiwst of i! srd. Z1q-iaq stwfres.' uses it"e "ina "J Ito st tdi length reguflator 13s I sewinggsuisul l can be obtained by uing he special putpose presser tona Some fabrics may require the addition of a backinc; to lensure firlm 'sflr stodrmn (' organdet or lawn is suitable for this propo e a Adjusting stitch length: The identded bthind the stitd indi(a)or, a, siown in tar 'Hliostrist I'll provide~s a means rof ilraduoali shortiening he stitch lenglh. As thre regulator knot) is tiurned, the p unotl~ rides deeper into this indentation unit a closed satin stitch s obtained The excact staitc len(,thl will vary wilh tile texture Of tile fabric It is advisable to makei a test oil d scrap of same falihe first, before proceedinq wsith actual work VV .
12.. .a
Adjusting needle thread tension: Satin sttdtle requires less needle thread tension than straight stitching or open zig-zag designs, Furthermore, the wider the satin sticd, the lighter the tension on the needle thread must
___
......
.......
be.
To determine correct tension setting, a test sample should be made on same fabric. A properly balanced satin stitch should lie flat across the material, Any tautness or pu&*e-.....1ot rinq indicates too high a needle thread tenSion..
a~lu
kttn
.Voped
Wil
vief
31
L N P R
MNIjyjSpecial
The seven built-in discs are represented by the letters L to R. If you move the stitch pattern selector to one of these letters you will get one of the basic patterns shown below. The lower stitch pattern selector is generally set at B = centre needle position Setting A represents left, and C represents right needle position, as described on page 30.
The stitch width selector controls the width of your stitches. The widest stitch width (setting 5) will generally produce the best sewing results for the pattern.
Raise needle above fabric before moving stitch patltern and stitch width selectors.
L ....
if.
0 = Multtp=1-Sutdi Zig-Za.
32
Basic Patterns -
nf
22YVVYYVYVV.
*<Od When you use a special disc, the upper stitch pattern selector must always be on Special. It you then set the lower stitch pattern selecfor on A, B or C, it will place your stitches at left, centre, or right (Refer to page 30c) B (cenlre) is generally preferred, The stitcrl width selector can then be used to control the stitch width. Also when working dgflfl
with special discs, setting 5 will generally produce the best sewing results for the pattern. Combined basic patterns can be pages 34 and 35. seen on
I. Raise stitcli chart cover Remove disc and place another on spindle, push down until disc snaps in place. 4. Set upper stitch pattern selector on special.
N PR KNO NPR
L N P R
/M/O0 0Q
K, M
Specia l
33
Combination Patterns
nmbier, tvo basic patterns either * By selecting two buit-in disc positions or " By selecting one built-in disc position and <one irtletharyiealen sprcial disc, As we have seen, lth letters L to R of the, upper sWiIch patteri selector represent the built-in dhscs arid spec-at represen s the inl rdchaigecbe spta ,t disc:> Since there is only one selector bulton for setllng ihe letliets L to Speoial, how is it possible to conmbine two bhasifpatt[(nYs? The arnswer is that tho etters D through J of the lower stitch pattern selector also represent the boilt-in discs. As shown below, D corresponds with L, E corresponds with M, and so forth. In this way you cati conmbitne two basic patterns You can
IPlease note " When set out combination patterns, the stitch woidth seleclor no longer controls stitch width but it vaies the pattern and may he set t> 2, 3, or 4 (not 5). * Combination patterns cannot be used with two nee~dles
the
JL2
JL 3
JL4j
'4-i
Examples Coutbton mtnSe n4 Retaled (Some examples are also showa in the sttft coat cover a top of YOrt nddnt) Mase neede above fabric before movin stitch pattr and std width ae,Odomn Lo.we SUh Patter Select"r Upper Stitch Pattern Selectr
D Specia
.
Sp2atial
7.MW
Suf sole
D
D
Spedia
SP~
S3j
2 -.-.- -.. -.-.-. . .. -. .
D B
F F
TflfljJflLMXVLXLPLPLP
r~fllr
P
0
F
2
2
tA~-7>
;t
A~
G
G G
G
M
P speat
Special
4
4 2
6Mr ---1:
-*" v-..
* -1-
"
4.. 0 Of '
H I
Speal L
4 2
35
Two-Needle Stitching
By using two needles at once, you can produce two parallel, closels spaced, decorative lines of stitching simultaneously. You can use either one or two colors of thread; oid you can choos%, either a stiaight stitch setting, or o ne of the basic pattuns. (Cormbinatilon patlerls Cannuot be used for two-needIle work.) Some of the attractive designs you (cn teaIc are shown on page 38.
Phwc second spool of thread onto auxiliary spool holder dard thread ds lor one-needle shiching (see page 20), making ceitain that both threads are separated by the center disc of the needle thread tension. 36
KK
h2S2j
m
A
L N PR
37
Special
3.
3a.a.
4a
aa
a.
Special
-3
V.
p3
SpeciaW
00
0WONNO
A..
rCCCCC. .
Chainstitching
\4omre ,, ny o'her sewlinl roat<1inem yair aw >I\(I;R will ehliiiileao toseidEtiMle , tistimin4if aniii ht~oitw imartie wOt k plt nstV doiae by hllnd in that blok sidlo old sinqle thread inslilehinq cln be "olt hIV[ vo vr lot tha nialcine.
Th Is ( ibl's vou to usetai sal in" madlonlef, {Ill
-lerlohtinq loops on the underside If the Fhi, slithebe ire produced bv the httoid dkmie so you do nlat need thrd or i holbiri Ben lase th stitl> formed e f]vdinile bs a sl thread, th(eIntl ops trislra' easily" The entirt line
ion[
ta0] (d
a tpl!
onII,the lstad end, A Is,, the, lopl formation l t1he sottlaes makes them less tau!t ih ;mqlth-thread rtahinslitcuint look's like rtga' reqlulr straiqht sI ches. That's what makes Lit zloirlil slitimq on top. hot itis a s rti>' rtaitliinhtinilIt f xlibh
Il,
like liavfnrj
Underside of Chalastlitc
Seam
Hiere are a few of the many sewing jobs for wihich you will find chainstitcdinq useful
Basting -- trial seorns for fittinqt ront0u(Ilon qtdel]ies, z)!pper opt rlinin s. lIningsS arIid ilIttriIcings
teei To, poesem, Stay-stitching datin II S st rb(III b]M q( tIis..'oi hlpe F a', tar
for d(iidren
I I dy ' searms, r 1 IWholtr
welling
I[ cording _ [or IrnTnlt iiii arId bo lttolt 1( Attaching hem tape and Plastic waisltIfarl-
Machine Settings
Stitch Pattern Selectors: A K Stitch Width Selector: J Stitch Setting: Norally set for maximum length, approx. 4 ram; but any stitch length between 2 and 4 Tnom may be
A
40
Threading
in ddit ion tof 1he nor-mal threading You must ,dso pim nee-dle thread through Cyttlet in the dawnsitc, thread guide.
Puckers in the fabric and pindced loops indicate too mudc tension; turn tension dial to a lower number.
Large, irregular loops indicate too little tension, turn dial to a higher number. 41
Stitching
When starting mnake -sure that the take-up lever is in its highest position, T1is will prevent the needle thread from pulling out of the needle if the thread has been crt too short. Caution, you may sew forward only. Position neeodie in very edge of fabric, lower .the presser Ioot and stitch. If tile material is pivoted at thie neodle for operations where cornering is required, mjjitke certain that the needle is on its upward movement (approx. V, inch [I cmj abov its lowest point) to avoid skipped stih les. Then continue to stitch in thle new direction.
S.
'I
q-,
42
lie
eiit in/ l!
muslin s'lhs f'o Iria] h'ir'qrs The lirrmues l th it IIIf V!-' ItS(' d(CMl y inl lthflc , Nil t'if 1 the stlildhn rWin I( ripped (ilt in seconds if
ddtulj U i
ts itr(l At r(1 tSAr-
Construction Guide Lines ]a many instances, construc-ton quide Ines for pockets, but tol nh]les, atild oher detals can be advantageously marked kUIh dhainslitch basting. The studsinq will qive clearly defined line marking. Yel, unlike dialk or pins, it will not rub olf or becomie lst as the fabric is handled, This method lerid itself particularly to use on wools and other fabrics that do not retain needle penetrations.
.......
----
y
ItJill ....... fi'r ik
jt
ehilds,
riowilt -i, I hii ir iirinkijq, t,(I o nit tlo ly"is no I ln r '! r l i,chr 11f ttilks tIrt diistidl~diet NSi11116l urhodk Ilhe I1s looIp f ' 11a1i! tilted Iuluthea iI ,it the luit
44
Attachments
Note: The attOcmrntnts whidc ore not regularly furnished with your madcine are available for separate purdcase at your local SINGER SEWING CENTRE.
45
SUtic
Pattern Seledors: AL
Buttonholes
Always make a test buttonhole on a sample of your fabric Be sure to duplicate the thickness of the gfarmeent and include interfacing if appropriate. You will need two stith width settings, one for side stitching and one for the bar tacks The (hiee possible settings are shown below
Stitch Width Selector: See below Throat Plate: General Purpose Presser Foot, Special Purpose S Stidt Length: More than 20 sttches
3.4
46
~I
Marld
Lin"
u Sabl Sttldiddg
Buttonhole Length First, decide how long the cutting lengith needs to he, (the opening through which hie button passes). This will depend onl thle diamneter Cond thkidness of the button, To find the right lengtlh, cut a small hole in a scrap of your fabric and graddually enlarge it until thle button slips through easily. The length of the finished buttonhole will be the cutting length plus 1/a inch (3 mm) for each bar tadck
Then mark the buttonhole on the fabric as shown above.
47
C 56
Side Stlching: Position needle in fabric at point A. Lower foot and stitch to end of marking. Leave needle in fabric at point B, Raise foot and pivot work on needle, Lower loot. Take one stitch without changing stitch width selector setting, bringing needle to point C.
Bar Tackt Adjust stitch width selector for bar tacks and take at least six stitches. Stop at point D.
EI
Side Stdtilngt Readjust stitch width selector for side stitching. Complete work to point E Leave needle in fabric,
E
Fin Bar Tat(. Adjust stitch width selector for bar tacks and take at least six stitches in reverse, ending at point F. Fasteni Stitch To seaure stitching, move stitch width selector to I and take three stitches. Remoye work, draw threads to the underside and trim. Cat opening for button with sharp scissors
48
Applique
Applique odds beaury and interest to wearnq dpparel, hotes and fabric furnishings. Either contrasting or fabric self can be usqedl effectirely. 'the st itch most comnmonly used in dppiigueing is a closely set zig-zag stitch (basic pattern BEL The width of the zig-zag stitc cdn be varied to acconiodate fabrics of dilferent weaves and textures. Combination patterns and variations can dlso be used to applique with decorative stitching. There are two methods by which applique work can be done. The appropriate method is determined by the fabric being used, and a test sample is advisable. Position the design properly and baste it to the fabric. Attach the special presser foot to the presser bar. Method No. I Set stitch pattern and stitch width selectors for desired applique stitch. Stitch, outlining the design with applique stitching. Any excess fabric on the outer edges is trimmed away after the stitching has been completed. Remove basting. Method No. 2 Adjust stitch pattern and stitch width selectors for straight stitching (A K 3). Outline the entire design with a short stitch. Trim raw edges to the stitching. Readjust stitch pattern and stitch width selectors for the desired applique stitch and overedge the design with this stitching. A smooth, lustrous finish results, which requires no additional trimming Remove basting
Corded Applique
Corded applique, which gives a raised, threedimensional effect, is a particularly attractive finish for lace applique. Either method of appliqueing can be used when cording is desired. The only change in procedure is the introduction of the cord, over which the applique stitching is formed. See page 47 for threading. 49 OF
Many of the decorative stitCh patterns (cn Transfer the design (by tracing, usually) to
be used for tihe creation of attractive monograms and motifs. You can buy designs -or create them yoursell the right of the fabric. If the fabric is soft or loosely woven, baste a backing of lawn or organdie to the wrong side. After stitching, trim any excess fabric close to the stitchng.
Make a sample first, to determine suitability of stitch pattern and hnd the right stitch length and width, thread tension, and pressure.
Stitch Pattern Selectors: BL for zig-zag stlthtlng See pages 32--35 or stitch chart for decorative stitches. Sttch Width Selector: 2-5 (2--3--4 for Combination Patterns). Stitdi Length: More than 20 st:tdhes per Inch (Less than I pIm)h Throa Plat Inoneunder Throat PlateGeneral Purpose Presser Foot: Special Purpose
To Find The Beginning Of The Pattern Unit To reproduce a specific portion of a stitch pattern, first stitch on a scrap of material until the desired point in the design is readied. Raise presser foot and remove scrap. Bring motif or monogram into correct position needle; lower presser foot and stitch. This procedure is recommended for all precise design placement. Leaves, and flower petals, for example are created in this way. Free motion embroidery with hoop can be seen on page 75.
50
Seaming Shears
Stitch Pattern Selectors: BL Stitdc Width Selector: 2 Stlich Length: About I mm Throat Plate: General Purpose Presser Fool: Special Purpose
A da ity hairline finish is particularly desirable, for the inside seams of sheer collars, facings and yokes. Seam allowances that ordinarily show through are eliminated. IRoth heavy duty thread and tatting thread make suitable filler cords (see page 47 for threading). Stitch along seam outline (covering cord i used). Trim seam allowance close to line of stitching. Turn and press.
51
Couching
t Nsovel uff ocl <ii, obl wd by> cowt nqq vtr~i or bri'd %'IOh dcrmalvel~ stil tP patterfl%. SptIdcI patlt&m>, dto tfl<* mo!ppromsr>tta s Iithey allls th dt (oto itvt o,:d lo show s
ptlrt ol thtf
sigJqn
'Ind
durable
7ig-fi
stitridling is appf of
dot
52
Stitch Pattern Selectors: AL Stitch Width Selector: I and 4 Feed Cover Plate Button Sewing Foot.
Set stitch width at 4 The nedtle should then enter into th,, right hole o I the button Take aipprox imnately six zigzai} stitbhes in this position. End on the lelt side.
To fasten stitching, adjust to number I stithd width setting and take approximately three si tdies,
3 4
12
Knelloorm
In order to frorin a thread shank, stitch over a regular machine a long shank, stitch over the heavy end of the
ncedle. Position button and lower button sewing foot, Place needle in the groove of the foot so the point enters the hole.
53
foi with the g]eneral purpose throat plate, this foot provides
Lingerie Seams
Stitch Pattern Selectors: BL Stitch Width Selector: 211. Stitch Length! About I -- 2 mm dependingl on fabric Throat Plate: General Purpose Presser Foot: General Plurpose
Stitch Pattern Selectors: BL Stitch Width Selector: 3 Stitch Length: About I --2 man depending on fabric Threat Plate: General Purpose Presser Foot: General Purpose
To make a linqero se,m cafile and flexible, first straight stlco )oi selectors at A K3) hitted scearil on wi 1 ide and press both seamn allowdlices, to ri,dv. Flom the w h _q,c seting sie, righ i,;)stith ler h on BL 21h, lettingl the nlekd!4 , rnw ~k the seam line dnd ler!!1
For heavy duty, strain pro',t Seams, u-e double interlocked foamf, zig-fag stitched tin both sides with seltitng B L3. Stitch the seam on I te rightt side of the fabr c, m d osje ta igflse Press the seam op(,i, then fuhi and press the seamn allowance o o one side, ko epingl the rigiht side of the stic ({}1rin top, Trim the under seam allowance to one-half its width. Turn the upper seam allowarice edge event), over the trimmed edge, and top stildo
54
Seam Finishes
Stitch Selectors:2 1. Stitch Pattern Width Selector: Stitch Length: About o.r 2 Shratd Plaen: Generab put Throat Plate: General Purpose Presser Foot: General Purpose
Stitch Selectors: Stitch Pattern Width Selector: 4 -BL, 5 BO or EQ Stitch Length: 2- 4 num depending on dchoice of stitch and fabric Throat Plate! General Purpose Presser Foot: General Purpose
Sedia
should
firm fabri(s aroe olen sta yed with seam tape for durabiliy. Position seam tape with ecdge exactly on samd lin e, If seam is urved., preshape tape to fit by steam pressing Bast, tape in place, if necessary Stitch with ine ziq-vag stitching (B121, allowing neertle in enter seam tape antd sean allowance alternately Press seamin open after clipping on curve,
be given a duoable finish if the fabric is likely to raVel. Make a test sample first to deteHmisie whe. thvr ?ig-za{g stirch L blndstich 0, or men ding sutch 0 best suits yout fabric. Also adjust stitch length anti wiith settings to suit labric Choose the settingis that will give you the Most 'open' stiich ihat will secure the fabric edges Avi htmsh, over-sti(thed lir edges Trim seam edgbes eve By Place slitchi teta f ] b,cirqe of the scans allowanrce oi over thin , -sl as illustrated
111
Ac
`-4
4--
5<
i ?.
4'
4-
Darts
Darts provide fit and contour in a garment and should be accurately stitched. A straight stitch dart (A K 31 is usually formed by stithIng from the seaam edge, tapering gradually to the point, where the last three or four stitctes are parallel to the fold. Stitch beyond the told to 1l0ic a thread chain approx. VI to ' inch (20 core it length Tie the thread ends into a single knot close to the sitiLdnng.
NOM .enouqh
Thread ends at the point of the dart are eliurirnated when the single thread principle i% employed Unthread needle arid with Lhread leading through the throat plato front bobhin rethread needle from back to Iront. Tie bobbin and upper threads Ioget her, [raw knot through all threading points including d ke-up lever eyelel and tension, winding on the spool to complete stitdcing the full length of the dart Take any sladk out of the thread dby turning the spool. Lower presser font and stitch Iron, point of dart toward edge of garment section and backritdh to reinforce, This m-thod is also ideal for inside darts in Sheer fabrics.
Darts In Interfacing
Non--woven imeerfacionqs (an be shaped without bulk with zig-zag stitcding, Stitch pattern selector settings BL or BO can be used
*Cul
~ends, *
out the dart allowance on the stitching line. Bring raw edges together and pin over a muslin stay, and stitch, Backstitpl at both
56
Scalloping
Dainty scalloped edges are used extensively as Self t rimming on)iblouses, dresses, l ingerie arid children s clothes,
'I/ inch (3 mm) and clip into the points betwe~en scallops.
Some fabrics may also need notching, for a smouther, evenly turned edqe. Turn and press. When forming scalloped tucks, add additional V. inch (8 mm) to tudk allowance for seaming.
Perfectly formed and evenly spaced scallops are produced automidtirally at slitch pattern selector settings BR or BST. Setting BR results in a 12 >sti h ,t allop, and BS() in a 24-sitctd scallop Stitch length regulator an stitch width selector vary the length andi depth of the scallop. Place right sides of fabric together (Shaped or bias edgos should he interfaced. Stitdc scallop.
After sti tdclrg, trim allowance to less than
57
Mending
The multiple-shi ch z g- Jg is welt suited lor at types of ho isehold mending. It forms a firm, flexible bond for the rel~ir if rents and tears, and is ideal for the <einforcement and application of elastic Sti:ch lhngth aid width are regulated according to need
Stitch Pattern Selectors: BQ Stitch Width Selector: 2-S Throat Plate: General Purpose Presser Foot: General Purpose
Rends and Tears: Trim away ragged edges. Place dn underlay on the wrong side of tear o'r reinforcement. Using multipie-st lid, zig7ag B 0, follow the line of the tear bringing 1hfe edges together. Shorten slitch length at vilds and corners to give extra strength. Application of Elastic: Elastic, such as used in waist bonds, must be Stretched as it IS applied, to ensure fullness required in the garment.
Blanket Binding
The multiple-stitch zig-zag B Q is an excellent stitch for applying blanket bindings and affords both a decorative and durable finish. Remove worn binding. Baste new binding securely in place (stitch width selectlor at 5) and stit. Adjus' presser foot pressure if necessary, to accommodate the thickness of the blanket. 58
Darning
With some kill you can easily and quickly perform all types of darning on your mactine For this purpose you can selectively use I tihe genterdl purpose presser foot 'r 2 the darning and embroidery foot.
I With General Purpose Presser Foot Frst of .ll set p eusure at D (rNote L p( I and stitc length it-qulaitr ai 0 IMMI N,, attach beed to'c plate to nourh I bed In palate of req or Io lroot Plate. T iin dq,, from irea, to be 0, ti1 uretor I*-dt e aiil rito t r .... ,,-r loot t,attuloe hc roeedie thretid I ... I old noodle thiearloloely with htt hortn tarn hlnd wheer t1oNait! vt>u This wvill itro> bobbin tiread tirwiher with too0i of roerd threadl op though ohbro- no'd bhoth thriea ei!nd, drill lower into Lbrkc.
f0osi in wor"
Stitch Pattern Selectors: AK Stitch Width Selector: 3 Stitch Length: 0 Feed Cover Plate Presser Foot: General Purpose Presser Foot Pressure: Dial Setting D
rto qqod
stitch.
Fairly long stitches are best for kni' and tricot fabrics so that the darned area remains smooth and flexible. Short stitches are for cottons and linens as they upproxis'?te weave to the fabric. After completion of domiinc
sure to normnal sethtag
2. With Darning and Embroidery Fool Ihe s*.tturais o! the rh,o1Tr, fo~r thrs type of hot<irgllan re dsccriibod or! padq 74
59
The seam guide aids in attaining uniformity of seam width when extra control is needed. It provides for stitching to be spaced at any distance between V. to 1/4 inches (3 - 30 rmin from the edge of the fabric. It is secured to the bed of the machine in either of the threaded holes to the right of the slide Plate. Applications: Seams, blindstitdiing, straight stitching and decorative stitching.
Straight Seams
Stitch Pattern Selectors* AX SUtldWrdth Selector: 3 Stitch Length: 1-4mm depending on fabric Straight SUkt Throat Plate and Presser Foot, or General Purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot Seam Guide
fhbri s Place pins with points toward seam edges so they nip into fabric at stitching line. The hugcer] stratigh-t-sb Ict presser toot wjil
ride, hfely over the pin points Guide fabric edues lightly against guide while stitching.
Curved Seams
Curv ed vanam requidre additionalI treatmentri in handling. A shorter stitch will provide greater elasti(ity and strength. Set the sWant uide at an angle so that the end closest to the needle acts as a guide.
and parallel t To guide seam stit din straight to the edge of the fabric, adjust and align the seam guide for proper seam width, Pin seam edges and basle if necessary. Hand basting can be eliminated on easy-to-handle
60
60
Blindstitch Hems
Stitch Pattern Selectors: BO Stitch Width Selector: 2-5 Stitch Length: I--2 mm
Throat Plate: General Purpose Presser Foot: General Purpose Seam Guide
Basing Cuide I me
Ittilld
hifid
t.'(filir
[t' prI
oh do, I(1r10
iK ellualt
i'111iiii
it
ll'iq
mil
ewixill'
It
'S.
h':It FI'11
t r,; I it
,i(e , 1n''b"li ,l t I
t lii d
u~,,l- d) F0 SI) i1
I ]Io
*l
Mork turn and P esS herrM ii the ruqal wa; Place a bast.lq mgtlde tine npproximately linch 16 emir) frrnn the top of the heml rlIpe Place hem edge (to%,r tile iced of the nladil:nQc, turrning bill of fibrit to thei 1. a of Pastinu
and thus
t toatqt a sloft
""'p
trl,
old
"'tIh if
ii
Adjust s alii duldi over thi riqht toe <if the prl'' 'o Urt il ;L rests n 'xt toi the, Soft fold
titt .ut* r{
01)l*freS[l 1 i1lTlIJ/
>
Top Stitching
i"
"I
11'l
q
-,,
iv ll
'l
igt I
lotI
ticU
Wt'll
t rfIll',ill
61
This loot has been designed to facilitate the placing of stilching close to a raised edge. The hinged feature of this foot ensures even feeding over pins, heavy layers of fabric or cross seams. It is attached to the mactine in place of the regular presser foot and can be adjusted to either the right or left side of the needle. Straight or zig-zag stiltc settings can be used. Applications: Zipper insertion, corded seams, tubular welting and slip cover welting.
Zipper Insertion
Stitdh Pattern Selectors: AK Stich Width Selector: 3 Throat Plate: General Purpose or Straight Stitch Zipper Foot
Many different types of zippers are available for everything you sew There are several satisfactory methods for insertion. Detailed sewing instructions are included in the zipper package. For any method used, the zipper foot enables you to form an even line of stitduing close to the zipper, When the zipper is to the right of the needle, rgt ft to adjust the zipper zipper foot tothe the left of of the needle. needle. When the zipper is to the left of the needle, adjust the zipper foot to the right of the needle.
Secure the zipper fool to the presser bar as you would the regular presser foot. Adjustinent to the right or left of the needle is moude by loosening the thumb screw at the back of the foot. Check the position of the foot by lowering the needle into the side notch of the foot, making sure it clears the foot. Lods into position by tightening the thumb screw.
62
Adjust the foot to the left of thie needle. Close the 7ipper arid turn it Lice up, Smooth back the seam allowance at the edge of the zipper. Top stitch it to the tape close to the folded edge.
Turn zipper face down. Turn work to right side and tiin in place. Adjust the foot to the right of the needle. Stitch a>" It lower end of the zipt)er and up to the waist1!m. Ronove bastingH
...... H.. . .
63
Corded Seams
Stitch Pattern Selectors: AK Stitch Width Selector: 3
ia I cnnd coirnus n a v ari, t> If ,os anld ,lheo ctiktoed with ai himly u ovn fabic, noakO a woltion( that, I, ai (.ontO>I~tVe 50400 hfnish for .hildrens utlotihs, bloutv;, pillow stipst tinoo Mt eft-C, . 11.,s wtoq is prepared Ilk OdMilltO and Qhc11 IA~lhOd lilt) [h ti~leien.
il
scam
('U{
I~t
!1 [)
t-i~cr
v[Iof
>dl I: o!
30
vinlll]
the Ordsg
hi'm dnoilo
I,
P's.t>h
APS12
rd s:ilr
Qho',ssreptr'
and
oRd01i]
'4>
1} l
l'0 tu'''t
Cs:ri
lengtith usedt t, InoKe thro W('t lung. Guide IIhe toot text to the I.bt cor d ht dnot crowd
thace
Over
the
attached
Weting
and pun or bttste together. stitchineg (ise first Keep uprvd osta.ns a guode and poes sn the pseam under the eedle. Statch this time pushing ihe cod hard against thes foot, This method produces evenly joirnei seam edges and tightly set welting. Curved scares are corded as v
65
T'ie n irt w hemmer forms and stitches a perfectly turned h om v ithoui basting or pressing. Applications: Fine hems, edging ruffles, hemming with lace, h min-nd seanis and lingerie finishes.
Hemming
Crease a double V/ inch (1i mm ftoI along the edge of the fabric to I f( irro Ildce a. the fabric under the foot L,,v i ae iot and stitch the creased told for s <<era st': ties. Hold the thread ends with the l it ind and guide the raw fabric edge in rot, of the hemmer evenly into the st roll. Sew slowly, still hcldin the hem is well started. lifre, e "s until ;t with ith the o good vust be times. ly for-
Stlt& Pattern Selectors: AK SUtcd Width Selector: 3 Throat Plate: Straight Stitch
Nanow Hemmer
Soft fabrics will enter tat scrti t, the foot down; firm, cri-4 Aite-i Is foot raised. Even feedin7 is cssq liial hemming. The same width of fat tio kept in the scroll of the [e Umil _t a A little practice will result in p rKc( med hems.
Hemmed Seams
A hemmed seam is applied where a fine narrow seam is appropriate, Allow a scant t/4 inch (8 Ilml) sealn allowance. With both sides of fabric together, place upper layer approx. 'Is inch (4 iamm to left of lower layer Insert two fabric edges into hommer and proceed as for plain hem.
66
Decorative Hems
If you use the henmmer foot and choose a zig-zag Stitch pattern, you can turn and decorate a narrow hem in a single operation. This time-saving finish is especially suited to ruffle edges, aprons and lingerie finishes.
Stitch Pattern Selectors: Any basic pattern Stitch Width Selector: 2-5 Throat Plate: General Purpose Narrow Hemmer
Follow same steps as for plain hems.
Stitch Pattern Selectors: DL Stitch Wldth Selectcr: 3 Throat Plate: General Purpose Narrow Hemmer
Lace Applied Under Hem When using lace underneath the fold of a
hem, the procedure is th same as when making a hemmed seam. Slip the lace in from the left as you would the second piece of fabric. This method is used where a neat finish is desired on both sides of material. 67
Bin der
b
ab
= Scroll for unfolded binding = Slot for folded bias tape c = Adjusting lug d = Guide pins a
Th> hinder is used to applyl contnoercial htndtinq ai well Ussri-flic h~os h,.an unfinished edge, The, colorful trimnuon is attractive 'stun appii>d to duildlrens tlothes. apr'ons, cultins etc. It is d practital hrnish for scam edges,, 'ha t ra wid n tor indkinu bhind se.mS Straight stitcl, plmai zztg-vc or declorati'v zltzag s ttings con he used.
Cmo binding diagonally to form a long point Commercial 1,nding is inserted ftonm the right into the slot for folded bia, tape of the
is inserted into the binding at the end of opentng the scroll.for unfolded
68
I OIT,
o a
w 1w
,p
1,"!
nw
i
h 1*
1 1r
r, K,( en
q t!
.f
:t
lnsdd 1 n
As
Oulsid
Curves
ita> dol
.<>
n d lh idt
Siro t
I;-I\
>,
"
I.,d:II -it,
't
j'
ak< 'n
1!: '
f4
Thread Guide
5cate
Stitch Length: Up to IS ra Presser Foot Pressure. Light, 2-3 Special Disc: No. 22 Throat Plate: General Purpose Presser Foot for Ove edged Seams
suitability of an overedged seam in the construction of your garment. Be sure to duplithe gra n of your garment in your test. Adjust stitch length, pressure and thread tension accordingly. Cut and fit garment in the regular way, using an approx. '/, inch (15 mm) seam allowance. Baste fitted seamn line, Trim seam edges evenly to 'It inch (6 mm) from seam line basting. Place trimmed seam under the presser foot so that the bulk of the work falls to the left and the seam edge to the right under the presser foot thread guide (see illustration in left top corner). Stitch, guiding fabric up to the inside edge of the thread guide so that the straight stitches fall on the seam line and the zig-zag stitches over the seam edge,
70
The Ruffier b
Otadw ornt offers a simple aad Effe-ti.e zai .I rla", gathered ano pl ted ruffle ftPil4s mnil Li made separately or ;i~dd a!)d PDYird at I'e same time. The ruffier I; a!adiledi to it e mahdirie in place of th, regular Pre.rmser foot a,"d is used with a stlairqlt stit,7T1
ad
d
Inrg ot Orie
Tlie Yuffl.nr blade and the sepflrair blade ar( of blue stdel and hold the m.e itl to be ptl~hend hetween them. The rulf.ing b ad& f)r;ns he gathers or pleats by carrylng the fab ic to tif needle according to lip, spacini and fullness r which the ruttler Is .e!tuste . The spa re tr guide is slotted to tlaide sea-p edqes evenly and to separate the Tuffle strip Irom tht material to which the *Jlf!e is at tadicd.
h
a b c d e i g h = = = = =
Prtsser Biar Seat Arm Fork Adjusting Lever Adjus'ing Finger Adjusaro. Screw Separitor Guide Ruffling Elade = Separator Blade
2. The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of the pleat. It is thrown out of action by turning it out of con act with the adjusting screw.
at every stitch, Numbers 6 and 12 are space settings for pleats, so ciig them 6 stitching and is used gathers or pleats. who.r grouping
3. The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats. When turned inward
to its limit with the adjusting finger in
p ace, the attachment is set for its deepest pleat. When turned outward to its limit, with the adjusting finger out of action, the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness.
71
Gathering
,, a Is u qle[II e r ,n ( d I;oIi di~ sltoof finqer I04 I! I of"I 1 i i I45 t flL I .I 11' [ iOkm of I Ir lltO , ill Ioid . il'u . S't
r iuv!ri
I l:1
d4
sh~~, ,
andIi!{
iot* Wd)ht
leloph
";ilt)"( c
tu
]1
,ls
'55S
riffle fuInn s
SIt
il(p4
;IV. I
0ua] ,tnii ol full. 1no'> I t I*, 10I hs tiH rttaching Frill- stitch trio' it> ir v ik e, lruffte tulle (l, .IP!1
sRigh
fiofer
hoot oldo
Itun
t
to tfiacihtv ,ie
ltild i [
hil
Ii
Rutting Matrialt
>t,
Attaching Frills
Irl, 'rip ;t to bie rqntlied~ iel woen blue h>
(hf< igh the4 In4-1 lo irisltr qulej , 1,44 nil
umhtgial Material
=Gairravat
14444 mo>le[( -Ind PII (oA i II toIc<'eerserPreepecl as lior plain4 galt> ring Right sides1 of fnnri<- are placed ti fle'tIe i IPill to thne i'> 'to whewn Ifh ear ;4,1'
72
Pleating
YKI
N for
u
plemt
5ulc ad~ (I 54
pn sea h 04 to c-om aprl trt), <'Hwr 6 mo 12 A4at 1 of~ Lnov! And tA mnrutt, 54m tOy tinward ft 4 its>
u(
plemts
(.nfoed
tab,>>
Wiitch,
N adite ar Who, q20d su,rl A doew swat) Iis to th~e IrUfff*r plado lakro; lq rxt
St
,-pm,"
sA1 hhf
r~fI
, ! m. the' fleas>
~p
ho
!Idd
piatcs
tHie
Croup Pleadinq
thoft alio6 Pt, 144f' Id o ptn <fll 0 [mu6 "1 I :i,, P-m
, Ikl(: f~ Arah
>,,ft4 iinfl
sK4chir-o
kt
044
aO
NO
4' '1tO
N)m
p-W
o>.ur-
Ihteov
dIs' ty roIofl
alo
73
'Thi,
)(1r. .i(..,. Is i ait] t') all who cid ,ire pe fecto' i t, corniaq am ut *1 roids- wor..k, The fo~ot firmly i-ni1( enters anid rises from lh~e *'nri k r- mad hoc faiici'u wbilc uL' itk -mhr ttle I.ne of design to Iet followedi
-it ragge I edges from area ao ie ddrned. "Jo i ection can be 'ixed into hoo)lp. tilt ! s a t absolutely necessaly, 'It li fle d over plate liul cat ne beod in paf, :4 regular thloat plate. d Irning and eatbroidery foit on t ps1 "t r .Jlb i~ li~ltng finger over n'erlle ciaimp r r at
SUtit
Width Selector: 3
Stitch Length: Less than I mim Feed Cover Plate Daining and Embroidery Foot
ice lurther steps of this sef mi opciatior .i e thl satel(, as fll (fda111rninj tiln geterA iirpot se presser toot free to page 59)
UIln adhine at. moderate speeon ntd gutide? bri w il ti a steady d Continuous tlovullwttt, *imw movement ot tabric will prodnee
hort stitch; more rapid rmovemient length(en s
i
*we stitch. Fairly long stitdces are best for knit and trit Fabrics; ' short stitches are best for cottons: !ad linens as they approximate to the weave
fabric. f
74
Stitch Pattern Selectors: DL Stitch Width Selector: 2-5 Sttch Length: Fine (less than I ram) Feed Cover Plate Presser Foot: None
Script monograms and embroidery can be effectively accomplished with the zig-zag stitch when the tree motion principle is employed. A test sample should always be made before proceeding with the actual woik to determine stitch setlting and spacing. Some fabrics may require addition of an underlay of crisp lawn and organdie.
Trace or mark design on right side of fabric. Place work in embroidery hoop large enough to encompass entire design. Be sure fabric is hold taut. Position work under needle and lower presser bar to engage tension. Turn
hand wheel toward you and drew bobbin thread up through fabric. Hold both thread ends and start stitching. Move hoop slowly, following outline of design. Maintain an even rate of speed so that stitches are uniformly ipaced. Slow movement of hoop reoduces a close satin stitch; more rapid movement lengthens the stitch and resuets in an open effect.
Free motion work can also be done with the darning and embroidery foot. This foot is particularly suited for stitching smooth heavy fabrics since it assists in controlling the stitch as well as in a, proper guiding of the fabric.
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Your sewing machine is a fine yet sturdy precision instrument and it will serve you perfectly for miany years if you take a few simple steps to keep it in good working condition. How often you will need to clean, oil and lubricate the machine will depend on how often you use it and where you keep it. The following general guidelines aSSUMe that YOU will be sewing two or three trios a week. But if you use the mactine continuously, clean and oil it daily, Or, if you keep
Every Week Or So
with a soft cloth, clean: a, Tension discs
b. Take-up lever and *hreac guides c. Presser bar and neec.!1 bar
removal,
see page 81) Mactine surface If necessary, dampen the cloth to clean the mactine surface. Do nat use detergents.
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With the lint brush that comes with your mactine, clean: e. Feed dog I. Bearing surface for throat plate rq Rotating hook (area uinder throat plate and slide plate) After each cleanuill aiply a drop (but no more, than a droo) of SINGER* oil to the hook raceway (gi, Thec Pew a line of stitchting on a scrcap of mate ial to remove excessive oil
To Remove And Replace Bobbin Case To clean hook raceway, remove bobbin case as follows:
Remove bobbin case from machine. Remove all lint, fluff, loose thread ends or any other foreign matter by means of lint
brush.
Replace bobbin case so that groove under tension spring fits on hook raceway and fork of bobbin case straddles positioning finger
A.
N Push bobbin case holder to left as shown> un,il it snaps uown into lock position. Replace bobbin am. throat plate and close slide plate.
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SINGER oils and SINGER lubricants only, which are availalhe for purchase at your SINGER SEWING CENTRE Both are e-xtra quality products, especially prepared for sewing machines * Clean And Oil Area Behind Face Plate Clean and apply a drop of SINGER oil to each place shown You will find this easier to do if you remove the top cover first Also, apply a drop of oil to the hook raceway.
-over (and cylider cover), The motor requires no lubrication. Oiling of the motor can result in its burning out. stsrfungon a scrap After oiling sew line ec of material to remove excess oil. If the machine is to be stored away for an indefinite period of time. a thorough brushcleaning to remove all traces of lint and fluff, followed by swabbing of all exposed parts with a lint free brush saturated with SINGER oil, is necessary to protect against rust,
* "
Clean And Oil Top Of Machine All spats to be oiled are shown in the illustration. Do not oil gears, but apply a small amount of SINGER lubricant to them as indicated * Clean And Oil Bottom O Machine 8,f(.r to illustration on page 841, Tilt machine back and remove screw B, being careful not to lose washer, and remove bottom cover from underside of machine. In case of class 670 machine, also remove screw C and cylinder cover Clean and oil each of the places indicated. Gears are to be lubricated only. Replace bottom
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of fabric when making stitch width and stitch pattern adjustments. " Clean your machine periodically, especially the bobbin case and hook raceway areas, * Use your Instruction Book. It was written to explain the most efficient way to operate and use your versatile SINGER sewing machine.
Sewing Difficulties?
Keep your machine in good working condition by following the easy at-home-care steps outlined in this Instruction Book, and it will serve you perfectly for many years. The non-observance of some details may lead to thread breakages. In such a case check: " Is the machine properly threaded? * Is the spool positioned correctly? Is it securely tightened by the correct thread lead-off so thnt the thread can unwind freely from the spooiW " Is a Catalmogwt (5IXl needle correctly inserted and securely tightened in the needle clamp (with the long groove to. ward you)? * Is the needle free of damages?
*Is the thread suitable for the size of the
needle? " Is the needle-thread tension too tight? * Is the thread flee from knots? " Is Ihe bobbin-case and hook raceway areoa frt of lint and loose !tread ends?
85
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Page Presser Foot for Overedged Seam. (Stretch Stitih . Presser Foot Pressure Settings and Adjustments .. Principal Parts of Machine Regulating the Thread Tensions 70 .. 15 4, 5 27 Lace Lace Tape Zipper S,.ing D:f
..
Pae 52 6 62 ltulties... 85 7
.
Sewing Light, Removal and Replacement of Light Bulb . Special Purpose Foot Spool I folder . . . . . . . Stitch Length Regul,or Stitnh Pattern Selectors Stitch Width Selector Straight Stitching Equipment Setting .. Stitch Length Sewing a Seam ... With Two Needles Straight Sti ch Presser Foot Stretch Stitch ..... Threading .
. .
Removal and Replacement of Light Bulb .,. . . . . . . . . 7 Needle ... . 16 Presser Foot . 14 33 . Special Disc . . . . . . 14 Throat Plate Reverse Stitching
.....
46 17 12 t0 I1
12
..
Ruffler Satin Stitching Tension Adjustment Stitch Length Adjustment Scalloping Seams Corded Seams .... Curved Serms Decorative Stitwding Flat Felled Seams .. .. Litngerie Seams Overedgled Seams .
71 .. 31 3.. 57 64 60 32 5.. 70
. ...
..
.
22 . 22 . 12 24 . 36 13, 22 70
..
BobbinC
Sin N pe .
.. .
.
20
...
.... .
wo Needles
36
36 21 8 9 9 9 13 14 4. 37 36 37 36 20 64
Practical Stitching . . . .32 Seaming Sheers .. . ... . 51 Seams in Knit Fabrics .. . 55 Straight Seams .... ... 22. 60 Zig-Zag Stitching .... 29 Seam Finishes 55 Decorative Itlems .,... 67 HIemmed Seams ... 66 -lemming with Lace . . .. 67 Scam Guide 60 Settings Needle Position .. 22, 30 Needle Thread Tension ..... 15, 27 Presser Foot Pressure . ...... 15 Stitch Length ... . 12 Stitch Pattern. .... 10 Stitch Width It Sewing of Buttons 53 Cord .. .. 52 Elastic .. 58
Treadle Drive.. .... ... Connection of Sewing Light .. . Replacement of Belt ... Selective Motor and Treadle Driv. Throat Plates . Removal and Replacement .. . Two Needles Basic Pattern Stitching .. ,. Insertion . ..... .. .. Straight Stitching ..... . Threading .... Upper Threading . Welting ..... . Zig-Zag Stitching Adjusting Stitch Length ... .. Adjusting Stitch Width .. .. Equipment . Settings .... With Two Needles Zipper Foot . . . . . . Zipper Insertion ...
I1 30
29 30 37 62 62
. .. . .
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