Car Battery 6V or 12V charger

Always we needed a charger with which we can charge the car battery. This circuit can charge automatically, fast and rightly, batteries 6V and 12V. A basic factor in the success in the circuit operation is the use of transformer [T1] of good quality with very good insulation and resistance in the short circuits. The Q1 via divider R1-2, the TR1 and the R4, functions as regulated current source. The current via the R9 drives the power transistors Q5 -6, where is strengthened X2000 times roughly. In a car battery charger the voltage is roughly 6V until 8V. With these conditions the charge current is roughly 1.2A [is regulated by TR1]. When the battery charge slowly, is increased her voltage in across. In the 7V it begins conduct the D1. As long as its increased the battery voltage is decreased the voltage in across the R3 making Q1 conductible. This continued as far the current reaches the 6A roughly. Then via the fall of tendency in utmost the R10, becomes driver the Q4. The current that in excess in base of Q5 grounded, confecting the current charge constant. When the battery charger [14.4V] is completely, activated the parallel to the battery circuit that is constituted by the R6, D8, and D2 until D6. Simultaneously turns on the D8 that shows that battery charged completely. Simultaneously Q2 turn on from cause of voltage fall in the R6. The Q3 becomes conductible and grounding some of current in the Q5 base. When the voltage across the battery reaches roughly in the 15V the current in the Q5 base is very small, so that stops the battery charging. Diodes D5-6 protect the circuit from error placement of battery or from short-circuit of big duration. Diode D4 protects the circuit from error placement of poles of battery. Then Led D9 turns on shows the connection ERROR. Closing switch S2 short the diode D2 [6.8V], now we can charge a battery 6V. Adjustment. The inceptive charge current should be adjusted via the TR1 in 1.2A. Adjust can become with a battery 6V. Connect in cascade with the battery a ampere meter [biggest 10A]. If does not exist battery 6V, sorted output charger via their ampere meter and we adjust with the TR1 the current in 1.2A. At the regulation switch S2 it should they are in the 12V place, that is to say open. Attention should be given in the diodes D2 and D3 precision because these protect the battery from overcharge. If the voltage deviation is up to 100mV we believe to consider as acceptable. If you meet difficulties in the current adjustment and TR1 is not enough, you can change the resistance R4 value, until you measure charge current become 1.2A. The two parallel resistors that constitute the R10, it should they are placed in distance by printed board and Q5-6, because they are heated. Bridge B1 and Q5-6 should be placed on heatsink after isolate electric from this with suitable silicone mica. Bridge B1

and the PCB where it will be placed circuit should connected with near and fat cables, special there that the current are big. Also the lines in PCB should have proportional width [in the drawing they appear with far line]. The manufacture should become in a good metal box, suitable dimensions so that exists good ventilation. The all manufacture requires the proportional experience. The WORK WITH BATTERIES REQUIRES VERY BIG ATTENTION IN the HANDLING, BECAUSE EXIST ALWAYS the DANGER of EXPLOSION.

Part List R1-11=1K ohm 0.5W 5% R2=22K ohm 0.5W 5% R3-5-8=10K ohm 0.5W 5% D3=4.7V 0.4W Zener D4-6-7=1N4148 D5=18V 0.4W Zener C1=4700uF 40V C2=1uF 25V T1=230Vac//15V 10A Transf. [See

Text] R4=2.2K ohm 0.5W 5% R6=100 ohm 0.5W 5% R7=100K ohm 0.5W 5% R9=470 ohm 0.5W 5% D8=LED 5mm Yellow D9=LED 5mm Red Q1-2=BC557 Q3-4=BC547 F1=Fuse 1A Slo Blo [5X20mm] S1=2X2 Switch 10A per contact S2=1X2 step mini switch J1...4=Flat Pin Connector J5=6pin Connector 2.54mm pin step A=0-10A Ampere meter Batt=12V or 6V Battery

R10=0.08 ohm 10W [2X0.18 ohm Q5=BD139 [On Heatsink] parallel] 5W B1=Bridge Rectifier 25A/40V D1-2=6.8V 0.4W Zener Q6=2N3055 [On Heatsink] TR1=4.7K Trimmer Pot.

Sam Electronic Circuits 10/02

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

RANGKAIAN REGULATOR POWER SUPPLY 20A

Quality Image 20A Regulated Power Supply Scheme Diagram A heavy duty 13.8V power supply is a fine thing to have in the shack, but unless you acquire one secondhand, is an expensive little beastie to buy. This means building one should be considered, not only for the cost savings, but also because you can brag about it on air to your mates. Of course, careful consideration must be given to the properties of the completed supply, and after talking to a few of my friends who have built their own and fallen into all the traps, here are the printable ones : RF proof, easy to make, commonly available parts used, but above all CHEAP. Well, last things first. Breaking down the construction costs of a heavy duty regulated supply, they are in order: y The transformer (around $A80) y The main filter electrolytics - around $A80

y The case - a metal case is well beyond the workshop capabilities of many amateurs and is quite expensive to buy (if you can). y The meter - around $A20-$27 (either digital or analogue) y The electronics - transistors, resistors, diodes, etc. y All the bits - fuseholders, terminals, switches, solder tags, nuts and bolts, power cords, etc.

Charger aki ini bisa digunakan untuk aki jenis apa saja. Rangkaian ini otomatis, mampu mengisi aki dengan arus 4 A hingga voltase aki mencapai titik tertentu. Pada titik ini arus pengisian menjadi sangat kecil. Jika voltase aki berkurang lagi, rangkaian akan kembali mengisi aki hingga mencapai titik voltase tadi. Jadi, rangkaian bisa tetap disambungkan ke aki agar aki selalu dalam kondisi penuh tanpa harus takut merusak aki. Sebuah LED akan menyala untuk menandakan bahwa aki sudah penuh.

Komponennya Komponen >> yang baris paling depan. Jumlah >> setelah baris depan ada spasi. Ukuran >> setelah baris dua ada spasi. maklum, cuman kopi paste aja, dari bentuk kolom.... jadi hanj=cur dech R1, R3 >> 2 >> 330 Ohm 1/4W Resistor R2 >> 1 >> 100 Ohm 1/4W Pot R4, R5, R7, R8 >> 4 >> 82 Ohm 2W Resistor R6 >> 1 >> 100 Ohm 1/4W Resistor

R9 >> 1 >> 1K 1/4W Resistor C1 >> 1 >> 220uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor D1 >> 1 >> P600 Diode Diode penyearah 50 V 5 A atau yang lebih besar lagi D2 >> 1 >> 1N4004 Diode 1N4002, 1N4007 D3 >> 1 >> 5.6V Zener Diode D4 >> 1 >> LED (Merah, Hijau, atau Kuning) Q1 >> 1 >> BT136 TRIAC Q2 >> 1 >> BRX49 SCR T1 >> 1 >> 12V 4A Transformer Lihat Catatan F1 >> 1 >> 3A Sekering S1 >> 1 >> SPST Switch, 120VAC 5A Lain-lain >> 1 >> Kabel, PCB, Heatsink untuk U1, Casing, Jepit buaya untuk aki mobil, sekering dan rumah sekering

Catatan: 1. R2 harus diatur untuk menentukan batas voltase yang diinginkan. Aki basah biasanya di-charge dengan voltase 13,8 V, sedangkan aki kering dan semi kering 14,5 - 14,9 V. Cara mengesetnya, putar potensio R2 hingga berada di posisi tengah, hidupkan charger, pasang aki yang akan di-charge. Amati proses pengisian dengan voltmeter hingga voltase aki mencapai voltase yang diinginkan. Kemudian putar potensio R2 hingga LED menyala. Charger sudah siap digunakan sekarang. Untuk men-charge berbagai macam tipe aki, lakukan hal yang sama untuk tiap aki dan tandai posisi potensiometer R2 untuk tiap tipe aki. 2. Q1 harus diberi heatsink. Jika rangkaian dikemas dalam casing, maka diperlukan fan kecil yang bisa dicatu dari keluaran D1. 3. T1 adalah transformator dengan voltase primer sesuai dengan voltase lingkungan kerja Anda, dan sekundernya sekitar 12V. Dengan voltase yang lebih tinggi (16 - 18V), Anda bisa men-charge aki dengan voltase 16V. 4. Jika rangkaian dimatikan, aki harus dilepas dari rangkaian, jika tidak maka rangkaian akan menguras aki pelan-pelan. http://www.aaroncake.net

THE ELECTRIC WAVE

ALKALINE CHARGER

This circuit was specifically designed to recharge alkaline cells. The unusual
connection of the transistor in each charging unit will cause it to oscillate, on and off, thus transferring the charge accumulated in the capacitor to the cell. The orange LED will blink for around 5 times a second for a 1.37V cell. For a totally discharged cell the blinking is faster but it will decrease until it will come to a stop when the cell is charged. You may leave the cell in the charger as it will trickle charge and keep it at around 1.6V. To set the correct voltage you have to connect a fresh, unused cell and adjust the trimmer until oscillations set in, then go back a little until no oscillation is present and the circuit is ready to operate. You should use only the specified transistors, LED colors, zener voltage and power rating because they will set the final voltage across the cell. A simple 9V charging circuit was also included: it will charge up to around 9.3V and then keep it on a trickle charge: the green LED will be off while charging and will be fully on when the battery is close to its final voltage. A 2.5VA transformer will easily charge up to 4 cells at the same time although 2 only are shown in the schematic. In order to minimize interference from one circuit to the other they have nothing in common except the transformer and, in order to show a

balanced load to the transformer, half of the charging units will use the positive sinewave and the other half the negative sinewave. Make sure to use high beta transistors such as BC337-25 or better BC337-40. Given the dispersion of the transistor parameters it might happen that oscillations do not take place. Use a slightly higher zener voltage: 7.5V instead of 6.8 or a green led in place of the orange ones. All types of alkaline cells can be recharged: it will take 1 day for a discharged AA cell or 9V battery and up to several days for a large D type cell. The best practice is not to discharge completely the cell or battery but rather to give a short charge every so often although admittedly this is not easy to achieve. Do not attempt to recharge a totally discharged cell or a cell showing even the slightest sign of damage. I tried successfully to recharge NiMH cells as well. Although the charging profile for these cells is quite different from alkaline cells, the circuit seems to work fine provided you do not leave them in the charger forever, because of the possibility of overcharging especially for the smaller batteries. The mains transformer must be suited for the voltage available in each country: usually 230Vac or 115Vac.

5W INVERTER

A single transistor is all you need for this simple inverter. The main aim of this
circuit is to provide a suitable supply for all kind of low power battery chargers that normally connect to the mains such as mobile phones, electric shavers, etc, even an electronic neon light rated at 5W was successfully connected. Only easily obtainable components are used. The transformer is a standard 10VA mains transformer with two 6V windings connected as shown in the schematic. Frequency of operation is between

70 and 190Hz depending on the nature of the load. This frequency is acceptable by most devices but obviously it is not suitable to drive frequency dependent appliances such as clocks or small motors that depend on the mains frequency in order to operate reliably. The transistor will not require any additional heatsink if it is assembled on the metallic case provided for the inverter. The neon glow light will give a useful indication, and warning, on the presence of a dangerous voltage at the output. A 2.5A fuse on the input supply line would be a useful addition. Operation is simple: switch on the unit and connect the load keeping an eye on the neon glow light which should be always on: certain switching chargers demand an initial peak current effectively shorting the output and switching off the neon: in this case you have to try repeatedly to connect the load until it works. A temporary short at the output and a temporary voltage reversal at the input will not damage the unit. Efficiency was not a design parameter however it was measured to be between 50 and 60%. If you have a 110V mains transformer and consequently a 110VAC output you should change the 0.1F capacitor to 0.22F, 400V. The waveform is only vaguely sinusoidal. Invert the connection of one of the 6V windings if oscillations do not set in.

CAR BATTERY TESTER

Checking the status of your car battery (accumulator) should be easier with this
circuit which measures the internal resistance of the battery. Pulses generated by the

555 are used to drive a dummy load and the AC voltage which develops across the battery gives an indication of its internal resistance: the lower the voltage the healthier the battery. The AC voltage is read out by means of a digital meter connected at the output. Separate leads are used for the dummy load and for the metering circuit. They should be connected to their respective battery lugs but they should not touch each other. This avoids erroneous readings due to less than perfect contacts of the dummy load. The internal resistance depends on the battery temperature as well; this is the reason for the switch: hot means a battery (not ambient) temperature between 35 and 52 degrees Centigrade, normal is for a temperature between 16 and 34 degrees and cold is good for a temperature from -4 to 15. Beyond these ranges the reading is unreliable. The internal resistance depends also on the rated capacity of the battery. The 100 ohm potentiometer sets the battery capacity: it is rotated totally to positive for a 100Ah battery and totally to negative for a 32Ah battery. A dial with uniform markings from 32 to 100 was used in the prototype. This means we can measure internal resistance of batteries rated from 32 to 100Ah. As there are a number of smaller 12V batteries around, specially for alarm systems, a switch was introduced that, in the X1 position, will change the capacity range to 3.2 - 10Ah. The unit has six leads going out of the box: two for the dummy load, two for the metering section and two going to the digital meter. Operation is simple: set the range, temperature and battery rating, then connect the dummy load and the metering leads to the battery lugs and read the ac voltage: you should be safe if it reads below 10-12mV otherwise it is better to give the battery a good recharge and if it is still beyond 10-12mV then probably you need a new battery. A bright orange LED shows that the unit is connected and in operation.

ELECTRONIC FUSE

Full short-circuit and overcurrent protection is given by this circuit suitable for
workbench applications in technical schools and laboratories where there is a need to work directly with the mains. Additional features are a clearly visible red lamp indicating that the voltage is present, good isolation of the output circuit when the unit is off, only a few millivolts were measured with no load, current threshold adjustable over a limited range and the possibility of remote cutout: the 6V from the secondary can be taken anywhere, normally where you are working, even far away from the protection circuit. Pressing the push button will short-circuit the winding and the circuit will switch off thus removing the mains voltage. A suitable led is placed together with the push button to show whether the circuit is in operation or not. Additional remote cutout circuits can be wired in parallel if so required. The circuit will switch off if a short is applied at the output without blowing the fuse but it will blow if you try to activate the circuit if a short is already present. If in doubts, first activate the circuit and then apply the load. The BTB12-600SW is a snubberless triac while the T0805 is a standard triac: you may use other equivalent types but because of the way triacs are driven you cannot use, in this circuit, a snubberless triac instead of a standard triac and viceversa. The 250 H inductor is a coreless inductor made with 100 turns of 1mm enamelled wire over a form 27mm diameter and 12mm wide. The mains transformer is a standard transformer with split primary wired in such a way that the circuit will self-sustain once it is activated. The same circuit was implemented with a current limit between 0.1 and 0.3A. In this case you have to change the fuse from 6.3A to 1.5A and the sensing resistor from 1 to 10. This resistor must be the cemented type not the armoured type. The latter is not able to withstand the temporary high overload that takes place during a short-circuit condition. Voltage drop from input to output is between 1V for little or no load and 3.6V with a load current of 2A.

PULSE RELAY

This circuit will convert a standard relay to a pulse relay; pressing the button will
switch it on and pressing it again will switch it off. For this purpose you need a relay with 2 sets of contacts: one is used for the circuit and the other is available for an outside circuit. Sometimes it is difficult or impossible to find a stepping relay, normally used in electrical wiring, and this is a viable solution. The relay used in this circuit was a power relay with 10A contacts and a coil resistance of 28. The circuit will draw no power when idle and it is possible to scale up the circuit to operate at a higher voltage. The relay must be always rated at half the supply voltage, in our case it is a 6V relay for a 12V supply. The resistor in series with the coil must have a similar resistance as the coil or slightly higher and the other resistor should be twice the coil resistance. All capacitors are 25V. The capacitors value depends on the coil resistance: the higher the resistance the lower the value. As it takes a certain time to charge the capacitors it is necessary to wait about 0.5-1sec between one operation of the push button and the next. An unregulated 12V power supply is adequate for this circuit.

LED SHINE

If you wish to have some really nice looking LED's shining out of your equipment
panel, you may try the following trick: pass repeatedly a fine sandpaper on the surface of any transparent and clear LED until the same surface is all worked out to a whitish look. There is nothing else to do but to switch it on and enjoy the pleasant look of it. Do not use the extra fine sandpaper as it will not cut deep enough in the LED plastic material, in other words the sandpaper normally used for metals is not suitable. As the difference with a standard LED was remarkable I did some tests in order to compare them: picture 2 and 5 refer to the normal clear LED, red in these tests, shining right in front of a screen and tilted at about 60 respectively. The results were as expected: very bright when viewed on axis and dimmer when off axis. The same LED (picture 1 and 4) after the "treatment": it is slightly dimmer when viewed right in front but it is much brighter when it is off axis and it gives a much better overall appearance. Picture 3 and 6 refer to a standard diffused LED and as one can clearly see, it is just too dim. The white part of the picture is where the light is most intense and full of infrared light. As most digital cameras are quite sensitive to infrared light, it is recorded as a white area. This is not really a circuit but I thought to share it with you and unless you need the extra brightness of a front shining LED you may use this trick with any clear LED, blue LED's being especially attractive.