For the Aquarist

Discus
Angelfish

FISHKEEPER.
September/October 11 Vol. 2/No. 6

THE

Care, Breeding and Creating New Varieties

Environmental requirements

Choosing Lighting for Your Corals

Koi

SANKE ASAGI
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Contents
A magazine for keepers and breeders of aquarium and pond fish

September/October

Vol 2 / No 6 / 2011

04

features
DISCUS

An in-depth article on the requirements, care and breeding of this most popular freshwater fish, as well as good tips for the creation of new varieties.

12

COMMUNITY TANKS

Guidelines for stocking and maintaining community tanks, with a checklist of factors for ensuring a peaceful, stress-free environment for your fish, providing you with optimum enjoyment.

04

20

ANGEL FISH

In a follow-up to the article in the July/August edition, Moolis Moolman tells us how to maintain the perfect environment for your angels.

28

LIGHTING

20

Providing lighting for reef-based aquariums can be tricky: Dean Williams gives advice, options and guidelines for choosing and installing lighting for your aquarium to ensure the best growth of your corals.

34
2

KOI

We take a look at two popular varieties of Koi: the tri-coloured Sanke and the Asagi
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Editorial

he Fishkeeper is now entering its third year since the first issue was published, and we are looking forward to the year ahead and the growth and improvement of this magazine. Fish keeping is a very popular hobby, which most people seem to attempt at some point in their lives. With some, the bug bites and the lure of the hobby entices them to keep collecting and breeding fish, which is a real passion for many people in this industry. For others, a lack of information and the correct advice can often lead to their tanks crashing, which leads to disappointment. We hope that through this magazine we can teach people everything they need to know, and hopefully prevent any disappointing experiences when it comes to keeping fish! Our feature article in this issue is on one of the most popular freshwater fish of all time: the Discus. Matt Needam takes us through everything you need to know about care, breeding, and creating new varieties. Matt explains that although Discus are quite pricy and may prove a challenge to the average aquarist, they are definitely well worth a thought. If the general procedures are followed and a little attention paid, these fish are an absolute joy to keep and to potentially breed. In the previous issue, Moolis Moolman wrote an interesting article discussing the different angel genus diets, and split them roughly into two groups: those that eat corals and those that normally do not eat corals. In this issue Moolis focuses on the environmental needs of the different groups of angel fish. This includes the water quality, the food they need to be fed in captivity, the aquarium size, and dcor. Many beginner fishkeepers start out by choosing a bit of everything when it comes to stocking their tank for the first time. This first collection of fish is described as a community aquarium. If the species of fish are chosen correctly, these fish will have a healthy disposition towards one another and will happily thrive together in your tank. We take a look at the number of factors there are when it comes to selecting the species of fish that you can keep together in a community. With regards to keeping marines, lighting can often be a tricky subject, so we have an article which gives us a better understanding when it comes down to choosing lighting for your marine reef aquarium. We hope you enjoy this issue and remember that you can now buy books and magazines online on our website www.thefishkeeper.co.za. You can also subscribe online, and dont forget to join our Facebook page, The Fishkeeper, where you can be kept up to date with the magazine and future issue releases! Happy Reading The Editor

The Fishkeeper volume 2 | number 6 september/october 2011 Managing Editor Rolf Dennison Design Layout Rolf Dennison Subscriptions Tracey du Plooy Sales Jenny Coetzee Electronic Origination & Printing Colour Planet (Pty) Ltd The editors welcome articles and photographs, which will be considered for publication on their merit. Payment is offered for articles and photos that are published. Disclaimer: The Editors and Publishers of Dennison Publishing do not accept any liability whatsoever with regard to any statement, fact, advertisement or recommendation made in this magazine and do not necessarily agree with the viewpoints expressed by contributors to The Fishkeeper. 2011 by Dennison Publishing cc. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any material from this issue in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

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Freshwater

Discus

If the general procedures are followed and a little attention paid, these fish are an absolute joy to keep and to potentially breed.

Care, Breeding and Creating New Varieties

he Discus (Symphysodon aequifasciatus), also known as the blue, green or brown Discus, in its original form can definitely and without a doubt be named the Emperor of freshwater fish, being absolutely stunning in appearance, with many colour varieties existing in the wild and now even more being commercially available. Although this fish might seem a bit daunting at first due to their high prices, giving

ARTICLE: By Matt Needham

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Discus can get fairly large, reaching a length of up to 25cm long

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the average amateur aquarist the belief that Discus are only for the experienced, gone are the days of these fish being demanding and, if given careful attention, are quite easy to maintain and a pleasure to keep. Another species of Discus, the Heckel Discus (Symphysodon discus) is also found in the Amazonian basin, although is a lot more uncommonly found in the trade today. Both species fall into the family Cichlidae, and although two forms exist, during the course of this article I will be focusing on Symphysodon aequifasciatus, as this Discus is the one more commonly available in its many varieties.

Distribution

The natural range of this species extends down the Rio Solimoes and along the main Amazon River, between the Rio Putamayo in Colombia and Peru and as far as the Rio Tocantins drainage in Brazil. It has been noted that introduced populations may also exist in the neighbouring countries of Guyana and Suriname. The majority of Discus found in dealers tanks today come from the massive farms in the South East Asia region, although many avid aquarists also breed this lovely fish in many countries around the world. The Discus is not often seen in the main river channels, being found mostly in slow-moving tributaries and forest pools which it prefers to the faster moving head waters. Within these slower moving waters it lives in schools in deep, sheltered areas around tree roots and rocks. These Cichlids try to remain in their very specific root tangled environments without venturing much into the main current of the rivers around them. This tends to create some isolation amongst populations, and with isolation come specific colour populations.

The water should be soft, below 12dH for maintenance and less than 3dH for breeding, with a pH of 7 or below being sufficient, although below 6.5 is required for reproduction

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General Care and Feeding

Above: One of the many attractive forms of Discus, the Pigeon blood

As with all tropical fish, it is very important that you attempt to recreate an environment as close to the fishs natural habitat as possible. This can be done by firstly doing a little homework before acquiring your fish from your local distributor. There are many books available today on Discus, and I strongly suggest you purchase one if you intend looking after these exquisite fish, as a few mistakes may lead to the catastrophe of losing the King of your aquarium. Here I will lay out a few of the important factors in maintaining not only a healthy home for your Discus, but also on maintaining some healthy specimens. As described in the section above, Discus come from slow moving, highly vegetated waters with lots of branches and roots which may be recreated using driftwood which has been boiled properly first (consult your local dealer about the proper procedure for preparing driftwood). Hiding places must be supplied to make the fish feel more at home, as well as some floating plants to dim the lighting. Filtration should be adequate but not too powerful, one to one and a half times the volume of the aquarium per hour will be sufficient. The last thing you want to see is your Discus being blown around the aquarium. The water should be soft, below 12dH for maintenance and less than 3dH for breeding, with a pH of 7 or below being sufficient, although below 6.5 is required for reproduction. Water should be very clean and well oxygenated with a 10% water change done weekly. Temperature should be maintained in the 28-32C range. Some avid Discus keepers maintain their aquariums without any substrate, making removal of waste with a siphon a whole lot easier. This is usually only the case in Discus only set ups and when the sole purpose is reproduction. Maintaining an aquarium for Discus can be a reasonably scary

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* Not yet Available

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experience at first, although if you pay careful attention and follow some basic rules, it really is not as hard as people in the past have made it out to be. This is where proper homework will pay off in huge amounts. Discus can get fairly large, reaching a length of up to 25cm long. It is therefore recommended that you allow a minimum of 60l per individual when stocking your aquarium. With regards to feeding, Discus feed on a variety of worms and crustaceans. Small feedings around several times a day are considered much better than one large feeding. Protein rich food, such as chopped ox heart, is recommended from time to time. Flakes or specific granules are produced for Discus and contain all the vitamins and minerals fish require, although the diet should not consist only of this. Discus colouration is a clear indication of the health of your individuals. A bright red eye and colourful body shows that your fish are in good health. If the colouration becomes dark, check your water parameters or your fish might be sick. In this case, speak to someone knowledgeable on fish health, in order to firstly assess the problem and, secondly, to treat it properly. As far as compatibility goes, Discus are reserved, gentle fish and should therefore be housed with fish that are not only not too boisterous, but also require similar conditions. Small dwarf cichlids such as Rams or Apistogrammas will go nicely along with Angelfish, many of the Tetra family as well as many catfish species of the Loricariidae family or Corydoras.

As with all tropical fish, it is very important that you attempt to recreate an environment as close to the fishs natural habitat as possible

Creating New Varieties

Found predominantly in shades of blue, turquoise and cobalt, forms with a lot more red in them are becoming increasingly available. These are very

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attractive, with some of these forms known as Pigeon Blood, Marlboro, Snake Skin and so forth. You may even come across some specimens with slightly higher fins, the breeders having a huge degree of enthusiasm at pushing the boundaries in creating new strains. New forms originally develop from natural strains. By crossing two natural varieties you may come up with a variety in between the two, from which you can select two of the best coloured young from which you want to cultivate: red, blue, or both. The young with the colours you are looking for are then line bred in order to maximise the desired gene that you are looking for. As generations go by you generally acquire your desired specimen, being predominantly bluer or redder, depending upon your preference. In some instances mutant strains may appear, such as an albino. In these cases the individual may be kept and bred further to strengthen this mutant gene. This may result in even more extraordinary strains being developed. Although this all sounds great at first, the fish, unfortunately, suffer the consequences. The more you manipulate the stock, the further it drifts from the natural, wild form. This may often alter the behaviour of these fish, with some pairs potentially not tending their offspring very well, even possibly eating them. This can be attributed to the parents not having acquired their natural behaviour pattern. These behaviours can only be transferred from parent to young by caring for the offspring: removing the eggs in intensive breeding situations and artificially hatching them does not allow the parents to pass on their influence to the young. In some cases the general shape of the Discus may also be altered, over time individuals may emerge that dont have the typical shape, but possess a rather long snout. This can be due to food deficiencies from an inadequate diet. These fish are also generally treated with antibiotics, which may result in more delicate fish, with stock being developed which may become immune to general standard treatments. The artificially developed strains of Discus do have an advantage, however, as they offer the novice a chance to try their hand at this once delicate species, with dedicated aquarists being keen on trying out the natural forms with their haughty behaviour and aggressive methods of reproduction. Above: Discus colouration is a clear indication of the health of your individuals

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Reproduction

In the first days of Discus keeping, Aquarists thought that Discus reproduction was similar to that of the more common Angelfish. They were horribly wrong. Being of huge value, it was believed that mass production of Discus could be achieved in the same manner as that of other cichlid species, by removing the eggs and hatching them separately. This is not the case with this incredible species, which requires far more precision and patience. In order to form a pair it is best to buy a few individuals. At this point it is essential that you decide on whether you are going to focus on one type, such as the pigeon blood, or if you are going to try produce your own strain from a few different varieties. It must be noted that it is impossible to tell sexes apart except when about to breed. You may be able to find a matched pair for sale, although this is sometimes a risk, as after being disturbed the pair may fight a lot and even not reproduce again. It is easier to stimulate spawning in juveniles that you have raised than in adult fish and wild strains. There are several techniques used to stimulate spawning which are usually performed together. Due to farm breeding, Discus may now breed in hard alkaline water, but if not, try to gradually soften the water with reverse osmosis water or rainwater. Raising the water temperature up to 32C and increasing the amount of frozen or live food in the diet may also stimulate a breeding response. Sometimes even a small water change with reverse osmosis water may do the trick. This change in water chemistry simulates the start of the rainy season in the fishes natural habitat, which may trigger the natural reproductive response of these animals. Although Discus may spawn

Above: Here we can see the stunning variety of different colour forms of Discus

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in hard, alkaline water, fertilisation may not be very successful. This is due to the eggs extremity hardening quicker due to the extra calcium in the water, preventing the males milt from successfully penetrating the egg fertilising it. It is believed that raising juvenile Discus in harder water aids in the prevention of disease problems that plague this stage of their lives. A typical Discus spawning may produce in the vicinity of 200-400 eggs. These are laid on an almost vertical surface which is thoroughly cleaned beforehand. Once the eggs are fertilised, the male and female protect them from predators. Some fish may eat the eggs once laid, which is a huge frustration to the aquarist. This sometimes occurs in many nest-guarding species, but over time the problem generally rectifies itself. This is where the aquarists patience is tested. The eggs hatch within 60 hours and are constantly cleaned and fanned to keep them well oxygenated. Dead and decaying eggs are removed. After hatching, the parents relocate the fry until they become free swimming from 50-70 hours later. During this time they absorb nourishment from their yolk sacs. Once free swimming, the young hover near the parents, where they pick off bits of a mucous that is secreted by the parents. This is where aquarists in the past have made the biggest mistake by assuming Discus young could be raised like other Cichlid species. This mucous is essential to young new born Discus in the first week especially. After this they may accept newly hatched brine shrimp as food, which should be fed to the fry several times a day until they have been completely weaned from their parents.

Although Discus are quite pricy and may prove a challenge to the average aquarist, they are definitely well worth a thought

Final Comments

Although Discus are quite pricy and may prove a challenge to the average aquarist, they are definitely well worth a thought. If the general procedures are followed and a little attention paid, these fish are an absolute joy to keep and to potentially breed.
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Freshwater

Community Tanks
Aquarium Zones

ARTICLE: By Rolf Dennison

The term community fish, which is applied to any species that is not by nature overly aggressive or territorial, does not necessarily mean it will get along with all other fish. Rather, a community fish is simply a fish that can be kept without problems in a community of compatible species.

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any beginner fishkeepers start out by choosing a bit of everything when it comes to stocking their tank for the first time. This first collection of fish is described as a community aquarium. If the species of fish are chosen correctly, these fish will have a healthy disposition towards one another and will happily thrive together in your tank. A community tank can be an exciting addition to your home and office and the species of fish within the aquarium can work together in order to help maintain your aquarium to a certain degree. Some of the scavenging species will rummage around the tank, dislodging particles that can then be removed by filters, whereas other species of fish may eat algae or dead plant leaves. Unfortunately, it is not always peaceful in a community aquarium; there are many community fish that will possibly cause a few problems later on. There are species of fish that have been known to nip the fins of other fish with long fins, but they are still considered community fish as they will not nip at fish with short fins. Other fish may get very stressed if housed with fish that are overactive, yet they will also both be considered as community fish. So it is very important that you understand each fishs needs before deciding which fish you are going to keep together in a community tank.

Each species of fish has its own unique characteristics and can behave very differently from one another.

Many top-dwelling fish will take food from the surface: in the wild: insects, fruits, and seeds float on the water. Some are good jumpers and the tank will need a lid or cover to insure that the fish cannot jump out.

TOP MIDDLE BOTTOM

The middle area is a good home for active shoaling fish that will make use of the open areas. Commonly known species are the tetras, gouramis and angelfish.

Bottom-dwelling fish are another characteristic group. Many are nocturnal by nature, hiding away among plants and rocks by day. These species include many catfish and loaches.
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What makes a community fish?

The term community fish, which is applied to any species that is not by nature overly aggressive or territorial, does not necessarily mean it will get along with all other fish. Rather, a community fish is simply a fish that can be kept without problems in a community of compatible species.

Compatibility of fish
Adding peacful species, such as theis Lake Tebera rainbow fish may help calm down a rogue fish

Each species of fish has its own unique characteristics and can behave very differently from one another. In the confines of your aquarium, fish that have conflicting social behaviours can cause a lot of stress to the aquarium community. To work out which species are compatible with particular community fish, you will need to find out a few details about how characteristics detailed below apply to your desired species.

Size

Although only a small portion of fish are exclusively predators, most fish will take the opportunity to eat other small fish if they are easy to catch and in close proximity. Some species of fish will also take this opportunity at night, when the victim will be in a state of low awareness. In addition to the risk that bigger fish may eat small fish in your community aquarium, smaller fish will also become stressed at the presence of much larger fish, and there is a good chance that the small fish will be out-competed for food. Always make sure that you know the adult size of any species you intend to purchase and try and avoid any that will be twice as big as your smallest fish.

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Numbers

Some fish are shoaling species, whereas other fish prefer to be on their own. If the number requirements of a fish are ignored, their normal behaviour can change, and they will become unpredictable. Shoaling fish kept in small numbers can be timid, reclusive and unhealthy, or they can become aggressive, nippy and troublesome. Fish that are natural loners may either ignore others of the same type or become territorial, the dominant fish continually bullying the weaker ones. If a fish is a shoaling species, it must be kept in a group, normally of at least six or more. If it is a loner, keep only one of that species unless further research reveals that you can keep several. It is best to avoid keeping very closely related species of fish together.

Spawning fish
Above left: Corydoras catfish are a popular bottom-dwelling species Above right: The top-dwelling African Butterflyfish

Another important thing to remember is that a fishs behaviour can dramatically change if a pair decides to spawn. This is most often the case with members of the cichlid family, which are generally very good parents and will aggressively defend spawning egg sites, eggs, and young fry. Always check to see if your fish are likely to spawn in the future. If they are defensive parents, allow plenty of space in the aquarium, and only combine them with other robust species of fish that will be able to handle any changes in their tank mates behaviour.

Slow Moving, Fast Moving

Fish may be slow-moving with a quiet nature, or fast-moving and boisterous. Often their behaviour is related to the conditions prevailing in their natural habitats. Bear in mind that in the confines of the aquarium, slow fish will be disturbed by more fast-moving species and may not be able to get enough food during feeding time. Active fish that only reach a maximum size of 5 -7cm can normally be mixed with any fish, since they are too small to cause harm. Larger active fish should only be kept with other, similar-natured species.

Male to Female Ratio

Male fish of many species, even those that are considered to be peaceful community fish, will attempt to become dominant within a group of their own species. This is because a dominant male will be more likely to secure good spawning grounds and pass on good genes to its offspring and is therefore more attractive to females. When choosing a shoal of fish for your tank, try to

16 the fishkeeper

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choose all females, or try to maintain a ratio of at least two females for every male. Keep an eye on the fish as some males will continually harass females in order to try and mate.

Rogue Fish

Although the behaviour of most fish can be predicted through experience of certain species and general observations, it is not uncommon to have a rogue fish that behaves differently. In cases like this, a fishs behaviour can be toned down by the addition of specially selected fish that are large and robust, yet not aggressive enough to endanger the other fish. Many peaceful barb or rainbow fish species can be used for this and, once added, the rogue fish often calms down. You can also add more of the same species of fish as the rogue fish and this will reduce his antisocial behaviour as there will be too many of the same type of fish to try and cause a conflict.

When it comes time for breeding cichlids are known to aggressively defend their eggs.

Territorial Nature

Some fish are naturally territorial and aggressive; the worst offenders should not be labelled as community fish, although if kept with the correct tank mates they can be kept in a specific community of fish. If you are looking to add any fish that are naturally aggressive, it would be wise to do as much research as possible and choose their tank mates with great care.
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Aquarium Depot, Tel: +27 11 805 8899, Fax: +27 11 315 7933 e-mail: info@aquariumdepot.co.za, 18 the fishkeeper september/october, 2011 www.thefishkeeper.co.za Website: www.aquariumdepot.co.za

www.thefishkeeper.co.za september/october, 2011 the fishkeeper Aquarium Depot, Tel: +27 11 805 8899, Fax: +27 11 315 7933 e-mail: info@aquariumdepot.co.za, Website: www.aquariumdepot.co.za

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Marine

Angels,
ARTICLE: By Moolis Moolman , Pet Stop SA

environmental requirements
I

Any reef aquarium needs to be maintained to ensure the survival of the corals, and if the corals are happy so are your angels.

n the previous article we generally discussed the different angel genus diets and split them roughly into two groups: those that eat corals and those that normally do not eat corals.

In this article we will focus on the environmental needs of the different groups of angel fish. This includes the water quality, the food they need to be fed in captivity, the aquarium size, and dcor.

Golden angelfish Chaetodontoplus Centropyge aurantius conspicillatus

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Good water quality is generally a pre-requisite for all reef inhabitants, including angelfish. Most angel species just require a clean, well maintained and stable environment. If this sounds easy, it is. Any reef aquarium needs to be maintained to ensure the survival of the corals and if the corals are happy so are your angels. BUT because many of the angels cannot be kept with corals, marine aquarium keepers tend to neglect their fish-only aquariums, which is where the trouble starts. If you keep your aquariums conditions up to the standards of a coral aquarium even if you do not keep corals, angels will reward you with vibrant movement and spectacular colours. There are a few exceptions to the water quality rules: some angel fish will need conditions that are better than your standard reef aquarium environment. They are also some of the most rare and sought-after species. The main reason most of these species are so rare is that they have adapted so well to their niche environment that they are limited to a small area and battle to adapt to our aquarium conditions and/or feeding, some to the point that extended survival is rare. So leave those very rare and expensive species alone for now, until you are very experienced and are able to create the perfect environment for them. There are also some species that are regularly available that should not be kept if you are not an advanced reef keeper yourself. The species that fall into this category are: Black banded angelfish Apolemichthys arcuatus, Golden angelfish Centropyge aurantia, C. colini, Easter island angelfish - C. hotumatua, Peppermint angelfish Paracentropyge boylei, many banded angelfish - P. multifasciata, Blue-back angelfish - P. venusta, Conspicuous angelfish Chaetodontoplus conspicillatus, Masked angelfish Genicanthus personatus, Rock beauty Holacanthus tricolor and Blue-girdled angelfish Pomacanthus navarchus. Above: Rock beauty Holacanthus tricolor

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Above: Apolemichthys griffisi

Then there are those species that, once acclimatised to your stable, reef water quality aquarium, would be a feast to keep and easy to maintain for years and years. These include species such as Apolemichthys griffisi (rare but hardy), Indian yellow tail angelfish Apolemichthys xanthurus, Red sea angelfish Apolemichthys xanthotis, Jumping bean Centropyge acanthops, Atlantic Pygmy angelfish - C. argi, Flameback angelfish - C. aurantonotus, Coral beauty - C. bispinosus, Blue Mauritius angelfish - C. debelius, Eiblis angelfish - C. eibli, Rusty angelfish - C. ferrugatus, Fishers angelfish - C. fisheri, Yellowfin angelfish - C. flavipectoralis, Japanese Pygmy angelfish - C. interruptus, Manyspined angelfish - C. multispinis, Midnight angelfish - C. nox, Potters angelfish - C. potteri, Shepards angelfish - C. shepardi, Keyhole angelfish - C. tibicen, Pearl scale angelfish - C. vrolikii, Blue-spotted angelfish Chaetodontoplus caeruleopunctatus, Scribbled angelfish - C. duboulayi, Black-velvet angelfish - C. melanosoma, Queensland yellowtail angelfish - C. meredithi, Singapore angelfish - C. mesoleucus, Western yellowtail angelfish - C. personifer, Bluelined angelfish - C. septentrionalis, Red sea swallowtail angelfish - Genicanthus caudovittatus, Lamarcks angekfish - G. lamarck, Japanese swallowtail angelfish - G. melanospilos, West African angelfish Holacanthus africanus, Blue angelfish - H. bermudensis, Queen angelfish - H. ciliaris, King angelfish - H. passer, Blue-ring angelfish Pomacanthus annularis, Gray angelfish - P arcuatus, Arabian angelfish - P. asfur, Earspot angelfish - P. chrysurus, Emperor angelfish - P. imperator, Yellowbar angelfish - P. maculosus, French angelfish - P. paru, Koran angelfish - P. semicirculatus, 6-banded angelfish - P. sextriatus and Cortez angelfish - P. zonipectus. Species not mentioned here are either in-between these 2 categories or I did not think of them while making this list.

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PET STOP SA specialists in MARINES, TROPICAL & REPTILES

CUSTOME BUILD AQUARIUMS COMMERCIAL AQUARIUMS LIVESTOCK ALL RELATED HARDWARE

We are open and ready to assist you NOW!

PET STOP SA Shop no 15/16/17, Rietfontein Centre c/o Jacobs & 15thwww.thefishkeeper.co.za Ave Rietfontein Pta, Tel: 012 751 2432 september/october, 2011 the fishkeeper 23 email: moolis@petstopsa.com

Above: Japanese angelfish, C. interruptus

What do I feed my angelfish? Feeding angels is not a big problem if they start to eat after shipping. Angels eat a variety of foods and lots of them are sponge-eaters by nature, so specially prepared angel foods containing sponges available on the market are a must for angel keepers. Angels do eat lots of other foods in nature like microalgae, corals and detritus (detritus is decomposing organic material, like other fishs faeces, organic particles, plants, algae, bacteria and associated micro-organisms) also. But in an aquarium environment they expect lots of different prepared and other foods. The golden rule when it comes to feeding is always provide a wide variety of different food as often as is possible, in amounts that are all eaten within a few minutes. This includes meaty food, greens and other special preparations. Brine shrimp is mostly used as from which to basis to start, followed by other foods like Mysis, Cyclops, lobster eggs and krill that can be used as meaty additions. For greens, products like spinach (especially good for Chaetodontoplus sp.) spirulina, broccoli and nori could be added to this. Also remember the special angelfish or sponges mixes that are needed by angelfish. For even better results, fortify the food with vitamins A, B & C and a good garlic preparation. Waiting a week before eating is not that uncommon, so do not assume that your angel is sick and start treating it for something that is not wrong. We found that a good mix of top quality fortified foods fed in small regular feedings give the best results.

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What size aquarium is ideal for my angelfish? Angelfish vary in size from 40mm up to 500mm, so giving a general size in the constraints of this article is very difficult. Always bear in mind that angels do tend to need sufficient open swimming space to feel at ease, so rather give them a larger aquarium than needed than one that is a little bit too small. What dcor do they need / prefer? Angelfish, like most other reef fish, do have to look out for predators and their instinct is to stay close to hiding places, so the more hiding places available the more at ease they are. Decorating an aquarium for angels requires a few basic additions. Firstly, they need live rocks that are packed for the maximum open / hiding places. These hiding places are imperative for your angelfish the first few days after introduction. There also needs to be lots of open spaces for the angelfish to swim and display their magnificent colours. Secondly, lighting does not need to be very intense: some angelfish even need subdued light. Tips when selecting angelfish Buy juveniles, as they tend to adapt much easier to aquarium environment than adults. Look out for any external damage, especially around the mouth. Fins should be intact with no red streaks. No red patches should be visible on their skin. Ask the seller to feed them. The angelfish should eat before you buy, as this is the biggest problem encountered with angelfish. Lastly, the fish should swim regularly and not have a problem keeping its buoyancy, especially species that come from deep water. Problems with buoyancy are an indicator of swim bladder problems, which could significantly lower your fishs life expectancy.

Above: The popular but fairly expensive Flame Angel

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Marine

Choosing lighting for your Corals

It is impractical for a home aquarium to provide high light intensity present in natural reefs, but as a rule of thumb a light intensity of 1 watt per litre of water is sufficient for corals. ARTICLE: By Dean Williams
Below: Light is the primary energy source in a coral reef ecosystem Zooxanthella (single-celled dinoflagellates living within the cells of other organisms) he majority of corals of interest to aquarists have symbiotic dinoflagellates living within their tissues. These one-celled photosynthetic organisms, known as zooxanthella, are essential for the long term survival of corals in our aquariums, as they convert light into chemical energy that some of the corals consume in turn. Understanding this is one of the advances that have made minireef aquariums possible and so successful today. As a rule, corals that lack zooxanthella are among the more challenging species of corals to keep,

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as they will require regular feeding with a substitute for the tiny organisms that constitute to their natural diet. It is therefore suggested that beginners start with zooxanthella species. Because zooxanthellae are photosynthetic like landbased plants, they require light. Light in the form of natural sunlight or artificial lighting is a key element in establishing an aquarium life-support system for photosynthetic corals. It is impractical for a home aquarium to provide the high light intensity present in natural reefs, but as a rule of thumb a light intensity of 1 watt per litre of water is sufficient for corals. Lets have a look at how to decide what lighting you need for your marine aquarium. Lighting Source Available lighting sources include fluorescent and high-intensity systems. Each of these systems has its advantages and disadvantages, but when it comes down to choosing what lighting you are going to use for your corals there are five

Above: An example of lighting unit that holds florecent tubes Below: A beautiful brain coral

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Above: Some aquarists will use multiple timers and a combination of florescent tubes and metal halide bulbs. They will use only the fluorescent lights in the early morning and late afternoon and during mid-day they will turn on the metal halides for several hours along with the florescent tubes in order to provide high-light intensity.

important factors that need to be taken into consideration, namely: The area that needs to be illuminated The depth of the water in your aquarium The intensity of the light source The spectrum of light The photoperiod Fluorescent lighting Fluorescent lighting is the most popular choice of lighting used in minireef aquariums by hobbyists today and is definitely recommended for tanks up to 284l. It is recommended that you use at least two to six fluorescent tubes. Make sure that you get tubes that will cover the length of your tank and make sure that the tubes you select have the maximum wattage for their length. I have had great success using 6 39w high-intensity T5 fluorescent tubes in a 250l marine tank, with three of the tubes being pure actinic blue (420nm wavelength) and the other three being clear blue sky colour (10 000K). I placed them alternately in the hood of the aquarium one white one blue. High-Intensity Lighting Larger aquariums require high-intensity lighting. This may be provided by metal halide equipment. One 175-watt metal halide lamp provides enough illumination for an area of about 122cm2, and a water depth of up to 60cm deep. For larger areas, more lamps will be needed. Metal halide lamps generate a lot of heat and will need to be used in conjunction with ventilation fans to prevent over-heating. If you have more of a closed system you may even need to run a cooler in order to get the water temperature down. Broad Spectrum lighting Both red and blue wavelengths are absorbed by chlorophyll, the chief

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photosynthetic pigment. Broad-spectrum lighting that mimics natural sunlight is the best choice for any minireef tank. Generally, choosing lighting with a strong blue component, indicated by a Kelvin temperature rating above 5000, will provide sufficient light for coral growth. Kelvin temperature ratings are a convenient way to measure different lighting sources. As the light source becomes progressively more blue or actinic, the Kelvin temperature increases. When planning a coral reef aquarium, as said before, try to aim for a light intensity of 1 watt per litre of water in your aquarium. Specimens that prefer subdued lighting may be placed lower in the tank or in a shaded area. Specimens that require more exposure to high light intensity can be placed higher in the tank. Make sure that you do some research on the kind of corals you are planning to purchase so that you can understand what lighting will best suit their needs. Also get advice from some of the experts at your LFS on the placement of your corals within your aquarium. When in doubt, choose more light intensity. Photoperiod The photoperiod, or length of day, is another important factor when it comes to corals. Best results are obtained with a photoperiod of 14 hours, but no longer, and a minimum of 10 hours. It is best to use a timer in order to provide consistent control over the photoperiod of your aquarium. Some aquarists will use multiple timers and a combination of florescent tubes and metal halide bulbs. They will use only the fluorescent lights in the early morning and late afternoon, while during mid-day they will turn on the metal halides for several hours along with the florescent tubes in order to provide high-light intensity. The goal of this arrangement is to stimulate fluctuations in natural lighting. Timers are available at most stores and are fairly inexpensive. I hope that this article will be of some help in guiding you in the right direction when choosing lighting for your aquarium. Also bear in mind that your lights will need to be replaced very 6 months to a year, so keep that in mind and make sure that you mark down the date that you first started using your light so that you know when to start thinking about changing the bulbs.

Above: Ricordea, a popular coral found in many reef aquariums

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Koi

KOI VARIETIES:
ARTICLE: By Angela Beckxle By: Sean Harrison

SANKE
A

When you are buying a Sanke you should look for a clean white ground and make sure there is a good stepped bold patter with balanced sumi pattern.
Sanke is a tricoloured koi and one of the most popular koi varieties. This Koi has red and black markings on a white ground. The three colours on this koi must be balanced and of excellent quality. This is very hard to achieve and is therefore one of the hardest variety of koi to breed. The Sanke first appeared in the second decade of this century and it is presumed that breeding of Sanke started around the turn of the century. The Japanese also call a Sanke a Taisho Sanshoku. When you are buying a Sanke you should look for a clean white ground and make sure there is a good stepped bold patter with balanced sumi pattern. In the pectoral fins it is good to have tejima in the fins. Tejima is short black stripes in the pectoral fin. When you are buying younger sanke, look for strong sumi markings on the shoulder and look for submerged sumi markings that can still develop over time. There are different types of Sanke, you can get Doitsu Sanke and Ginrin Sanke. Doitsu Sanke is a scales koi, with the exception of a line of scales along the dorsal fin. A Ginrin Sanke is a koi that has scales that create a shinny appearance. The scales on a ginrin are colourless and transparent with small platelets, which reflect the light and therefore create the shining effect. There are 4 different types of ginrin you can get, which are: Beta gin, pearl ginrin, diamond ginrin and kado gin. There are two types of sumi or black on a Sanke: Tsubo sumi and Kasane sumi. The Tsubo sumi is when the sumi is on the white colour of the koi and is the preferred type of sumi on Sanke. The Kasane sumi is when the black is on the red and white colour on the koi. In both sumi types it must appear like Japanese lacquer.

There are two types of sumi or black on a Sanke: Tsubo sumi and Kasane sumi

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The Asagi is one of the oldest varieties of Nishikigoi and has provided the basis for many subsequent varieties.

ASAGI

he Asagi is one of the oldest varieties of Nishikigoi and has provided the basis for many subsequent varieties. From the Magoi, which is the root source of all koi came Tetsu-Magoi, Doru Magoi and Asagi Magoi. The Asagi Magoi featured blue-black colourings and scales with a netting effect. From Asagi Magoi you got a dark blue Konjo Asagi and the royal blue Narumi Asagi. The Narumi Asagi is what most of the modern day Asagi have evolved from. Asagi koi are fully scaled, non-metallic koi. The blue colour on an Asagi can vary from a dark blue to a lighter blue. The lighter the blue the better the Asagi. The red or deep orange colour found on the Asagi is seen at the base of the pectoral fins, tail fin and gill plates. The red on the cheeks should reach the eyes and all the red markings must be symmetrical. The colour on the head can be white or a paler blue and there are no scales found on the head. The scalation should be in perfect alignment, each with a whitish edge bordered by a darker inner area which grows lighter towards the point of each scale. This creates an effect of netting and the more precise and complete the netting pattern is on your Asagi the more valuable your koi will be. There are five Asagi colour types: Konjo Asagi, which has more black than blue. Narumi Asagi is light blue. Mizu Asagi is a white-blue colour. Taki Asagi has a red abdomen with a lateral white line before the red meets the blue back. Angela Beckx Koi @ Jungle 031-2098781

The colour on the head can be white or a paler blue and there are no scales found on the head

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