Sunteți pe pagina 1din 11

Caloriferul cu candel Zilele trecute am fost chemat la un prieten s sudez patru dopuri pe evile de nclzire central rmase orfane

de calorifer dup ce prietenul meu s-a hotrt s se debraneze de la sistemul centralizat de nclzire Pe drumul de ntoarcere spre cas nu m-am putut abine s nu m gndesc la ticloia conducerii acestei ri care a reuit s distrug economia i s srceasc populaia n aa hal nct au ajuns oamenii s renune de bun voie la cldura din case i atunci, firete mintea mea a nceput s caute soluii fiabile la aceast situaie. Dup ce am trecut rapid prin soluiile clasice, radiatoare electrice, centrale termice de apartament, convectoare pe gaze sau pe curent, sobe cu combustibil solid, etc. am tras concluzia logic c pentru oameni ca prietenul meu, adic pentru cei aruncai n strad fr nici o surs de venit toate aceste soluii sunt prea costisitoare. i sunt costisitoare nu numai datorit faptului c combustibilii lor sunt prea scumpi raportat la un venit din ce n ce mai mic, ct mai ales datorit faptului c toate aceste dispozitive de nclzire au randament foarte sczut. Puin lume tie c pentru arderea unui metru cub de gaz se consum aproximativ 9 metri cubi de aer. Situaia este identic i pentru arderea combustibilului solid. Asta face ca orice sob s aib nevoie de o surs permanent de aer proaspt. Acest lucru ns n cele mai multe cazuri nu se rezolv prin alimentarea expres a focarului sobei printr-o eav de aduciune a aerului din exteriorul cldirii ci soba i trage aerul din nsi camera pe care o nclzete. Astfel apar mai multe inconveniente majore. 1. un consum al oxigenului din camer n defavoarea fiinelor ce triesc acolo 2. riscul crescut de intoxicaii cu monoxid de carbon n situaia n care exist scpri ale acestui gaz n ncpere. O cantitate sczut de oxigen n combinaie cu creterea concentraiei de monoxid de carbon nseamn moarte curat 3. o scdere a presiunii atmosferice n camera respectiv. Aceast scdere face ca din exteriorul camerei (respectiv cldirii ) s nvleasc permanent o cantitate de aer rece care ptrunde prin toate orificiile existente n camer cum ar fi, crpturile de la tocurile uilor i ferestrelor, coul hotei de la buctrie, ghenele instalaiei de ap i sanitare de la baie i buctrie, etc. Acest lucru face ca n camera sobei respective s existe un permanent curent de aer, care ridic praful de pe podea, i este rspunztor pentru tot felul de boli respiratorii, migrene i reumatisme 4. dac cumva camera ( cldirea respectiv ) va fi nchis ermetic cazul celor care-i monteaz ferestre i ui tip termopan, funcionarea acestor dispozitive de nclzire devine defectuoas, cci neavnd de unde s se alimenteze cu aerul necesar arderii n bune condiiuni, tirajul sobei va scdea drastic, arderea va intra n regim de ardere mocnit, cantitatea de monoxid de carbon din focar va crete exponenial i de aici toate accidentele cu centrale de apartament pe care le vedem la tiri n sezonul rece. Rezolvarea este firete simpl, anume odat cu etanarea cldirii prin geamuri termopan, trebuie creat un circuit de alimentare cu aer a focarului sobei sau centralei termice respective, circuit care const ntr-o eav care s aduc aerul din exteriorul cldirii direct n focarul sobei 5. soba care-i trage aerul din camera pe care o nclzete va trimite firete acest aer pe cos Astfel dei aparent o sob este un nclzitor eficient, n realitatea randamentul ei este foarte mic. Cci pn la jumtate din cldura dintr-o sob se pierde pe co pentru asigurarea tirajului necesar absorbiei aerului oxigenat din exteriorul cldirii, iar o parte din cldura cedat camerei ( cldirii) este i ea antrenat odat cu aerul care asigur arderea . Aa se face deci c de fapt orice sob cu combustibili clasici, fie ei gazoi, lichizi sau solizi, are un randament sub 50 %.Cu alte cuvinte din acele multe sute de lei pe care le pltim lunar pe timpul iernii pentru nclzirea unei case, cea mai mare parte se pierd sub form de aer cald ieit pe coul sobei Paradoxal de aici, este faptul c strmoii notri, care triau n peteri sau n corturi i se nclzeau cu focuri fcute pe sol, aveau o nclzire mult mai eficient ca a noastr care ne nclzim cu sobe ba chiar cu unele foarte moderne cum ar fi centralele de apartament i astfel mi-am amintit c de mai multe ori am citit n diferite surse referitoare la excursioniti sau n general la traiul ocazional n corturile turistice, faptul c o lumnare sau o spirtier aprins ntr-un cort este suficient pentru a crete temperatura din acesta pn la limita unui confort termic adecvat. i imediat mi-am amintit i de o imagine pe care am gsit-o mai de mult pe internet. Iat-o : S-ar putea ca unora s le vin s rd dar v spun c dou trei asemenea dispozitive instalate ntr-o camer vor nclzi camera la fel de bine, dac nu chiar mai bine dect caloriferul pe care tocmai l-ai eliminat datorit faptului c nu v mai permitei s pltii

De ce ? Este foarte simplu. O candel de obicei nu nclzete camera. i toi vei spune c datorit faptului c flacra ei este prea mic. Este numai parial adevrat. De fapt orice candel nclzete camera n care se afl, numai c ea de obicei este plasat pe perete sub o iconi, arznd la nlimea de peste 1,5 m. Cldura degajat de flacra ei va urca rapid spre tavan, i n cel mai bun caz se va acumula acolo. Dar nu va rmne acolo ci va fi dispersat de ctre curenii de aer dincamer. Atmosfera din camera unde se afl o candel se nclzete ns este insesizabil pentru simurile noastre creterea fiind doar de maximum 1 2 grade. Dac ns dimensiunea candelei va crete considerabil pn la cea a unui borcan ca cel din imagine, borcan care s fie plasat strategic la nivelul solului n zonele pe unde ptrunde aerul rece n camer, iar deasupra flcrii se va construi un acumulator de cldur din teracot ( ceramic, porelan ) randamentul candelei va crete nesperat de mult. Tocmai asta reprezint imaginea de mai sus, o candel de dimensiuni mari care are deasupra un acumulator de cldur format din trei ghivece de ceramic fixate ntre ele cu un urub i mai multe eibi i piulie. Flacra candelei bate direct n tija metalic reprezentat de urub. Acesta se ncinge extrem de tare i transmite cldura prin intermediul eibilor i piulielor ctre cele trei ghivece care o vor acumula. Deci, ntreaga cantitate de cldur a flcrii candelei este cedat mai nti acumulatorului de cldur, care o va ceda i el la rndul lui treptat, ctre atmosfera din camer. Trebuie s nu scpm din vedere c aceast candel va arde permanent.

Ne existnd co de fum, nimic din cldura flcrii nu prsete camera, iar fumul nu afum pereii ci se acumuleaz n interiorul ghivecelor, care pot fi din cnd n cnd demontate i splate. Cheltuiala pentru nclzirea lunar va fi firete mult mai mic, cci o asemenea candel consum cam jumtate de litru de ulei pe lun.

i prin extrapolare s-ar putea chiar imagina cum am putea folosi ca acumulator de cldur nsi caloriferul de font proaspt demontat. Nu trebuie dect ca acesta s fie aezat n poziie orizontal iar sub cele dou guri rmase dup scoaterea dopurilor sale s se plaseze cte o plnie format dintr-un ghiveci cruia i se lrgete gaura din fund pn la dimensiunea celei din calorifer, iar sub aceast plnie va fi aezat o candel. Fiecare din cele dou candele va trebui s aib un fitil mai lat sau mai multe astfel nct flacra s fie mai mare. Caloriferul de asemenea va avea cele dou dopuri superioare astupate de cte o tij filetat care va cobor pn deasupra flcrii candelei unde va prelua cldura direct de la flacr ( cu rou punctat ). Astfel cldura flcrii va fi predat ctre calorifer pe de o parte prin contact direct prin intermediul tijelor filetate i prin convecie de la aerul cald dirijat de ctre plnia reprezentat de ghivecele de deasupra candelei. Astfel ntreaga cldur a flcrilor celor dou candele va fi dirijat ctre interiorul caloriferului unde se va acumula:

Dei poate prea o idee bizar, hilar i poate de-a dreptul nebuneasc ia ncercai !.... Articol scris azi 4 septembrie 2011 la ora 11 de ctre CRNARU Ctlin Dan. With the cold season coming to a close I wanted to share one more survival craft that you can do in order to provide some off-grid heat to a small insulated area with just a candle! I got this idea straight from the HeatStick.com site, where instead of ordering one of their Kandle Heeters I decided to make my own and share with you guys how you can too (it cost me about 15 bucks to make compared to 30 dollars (plus shipping) if you were to buy one).

How it Works
The basic purpose of this heater is to capture the heat given off of a candle flame and to concentrate it into a steel and ceramic radiator assembly. After some time, the ceramic surface will act as a thermal mass and begin to radiate the captured thermal energy into your room or office. Heres how heatstick.com describes it (image and description c/o heatstick.com):

1. Heat rising from a burning candle (or electric lamp) is first trapped in the Steel Inner Core and surrounding Ceramic Inner Module. 2. The Inner Cores get very hot and radiate heat to the Ceramic Middle Core. 3. This Entire Inner Region gets VERY VERY HOT!! Heat synergistically builds up and boils out of the Ceramic Inner Core into the Ceramic Middle Core. The Middle Core heats up and begins to Radiate Heat. Heated air boils out into the Ceramic Outer Core. 4. The Large Surface Area of the Outer Core begins receiving Heat. The inner wall surfaces become very HOT! Heat travels through the wall to the Outer Surface. 5. The Outer Surface gets VERY WARM to HOT and gently begins to Radiate Heat into your home or office.

Putting it all Together


The process for putting together the candle heater is very simple:

What You Need

one 4 ceramic (not glazed) pot one 2 ceramic (not glazed) pot one 1 1/2 ceramic (not glazed) pot two 1 1/2 x 1/4 washers three 1 1/4 x 1/4 washers three 1 x 1/4 washers eight 3/4 x 1/4 washers seven 1/4 nuts one 3 x 1/4 bolt

Assembly Instructions

I think that the easiest way for you to learn how to put one of these heaters together is to follow the cutout image (to the left) I used from the heatstick.com site:

Just place the washers and nuts in the right combination as the image and youll be good to go. Looking inside, it should look something like this:

Making the Stand

I found the simplest stand to make is to purchase three 4 corner braces.

Then just put the three braces together with the middle brace facing the opposite direction and bend the outside two just enough to support the heater.

Test Results

I decided to test out the heater with the bacon-grease candle I had made (check out Homemade Lamps from Everyday Objects to learn how to make your own). Since the homemade candle jar was a bit bigger than the 4.5 stand I made, I added 6 corner brace extensions to support the larger candle. After burning the heater for around 6 hours it seemed to be putting out only a small amount of heat (a decent amount of heat was pouring out from underneath though). However, since the weather has been warmer around here I wasnt able to give this little heater a fair shake (and besides, how much heat output are you really expecting from a candle anyways?). Despite the less-than-optimal testing conditions, still, in no way would it heat up your home (or even a normal size room for that matter), but in an enclosed area like your car I could see it having some benefit. Again I havent been able to truly test it so this is only conjecture. Even though the heater doesnt seem all that effective, making this contraption was far from a waste of time. I learned some important principles as well as came up with other ideas of how to convert a flame source to radiant heating (just think of a larger version of this heater combined with the rocket stove I reviewed and youll get what I mean).

Process!
Astute individuals are quick to point out when first examining a Kandle Heeter Candle Holder, "Why, that's just a bunch of flower pots turned upside down!" And then the guys, (of course), go on to say, "Why, I can

make that at home!" Well I want to help you out. This page will contain enough information for the average person to indeed make a product similar to the Kandle Heeter Candle Holder at home. (Just as soon as you finish fixing the front door, the annoying leak in the bathroom sink, that sticky lower drawer in the chest of drawers, change the oil in the car, repair the doghouse, mow the lawn, and pick up the garage/workshop enough to find the tools you will need. Of course by then it will be Spring and you can put this project off until the Fall.) Anyone who chooses to make a product similar to the Kandle Heeter Candle Holder and uses this discussion as a guide for their own design does so at their own risk! DOSS Products assumes no responsibility for the potential hazards of your own design and recommends that you forego any attempt to manufacture a product similar to the Kandle Heeter Candle Holder on your own. This discussion is intended primarily as a free will offering of the general (but not specific) design of the Kandle Heeter Candle Holder to familiarize customers and potential customers of the general (but not specific) details of the manufacture process and the quality of the various components. If you choose to make something similar to the Kandle Heeter Candle Holder you do so at your own risk. The process breaks down into three parts. Part One is Quad-Core Radiator manufacture, Part Two is Steel Stand Manufacture, and Part Three is Integration and Packaging. The entire manufacturing process is labor intensive and is accomplished with common hand tools.

Part One -- the Quad-Core Radiator, the "Heart" of the Kandle Heeter Candle Holder.
The Basic Components consist of three "nest-able" unglazed terra cotta pots (an "Azalea" pot, a 3" pot, and a 1-1/2" pot). The quality of the terra cotta is very important. Low grade terra cotta may break up when being bolted together, will not retain heat as well as higher grade terra cotta, and often does not have a favorable esthetic appearance. We use primarily imported Italian Terra Cotta. The Italians have been making Terra Cotta for thousands of years, and their quality and consistency is excellent! We would like to locate an American company making a comparable (or better) product, but have not found one so far. (Expect to spend $5-$7 for pots.) The pots are joined together and held apart by a 3 inch 1/4" diameter standard steel bolt and an assortment and assemblage of 1/4" hex nuts, thrust washers, and flat washers. The assemblage of nuts and washers increases the thermal mass and expedites effective and efficient thermal transfer of the heat concentrated in the steel inner core into the surrounding matrix of ceramic cores. One of the unique aspects of the Kandle Heeter Candle Holder is that it tends to "heat up" from the bottom up. This is because of the assemblage of washers and nuts on the 1/4" bolt. Without the assemblage, the heat from the candle rapidly flows upward to the top of the unit, and thence (uselessly) to the ceiling. The increased thermal mass of the steel inner core effectively concentrates the thermal energy of the candle inside the matrix of ceramic cores and transfers the heat to the surface of the outer core from the bottom up! (The "hole" in the bottom of the smallest pot may be need to be enlarged to 1/4" diameter -- be sure to use an appropriate ceramic drill, or you may bust the small pot.) Expect to spend $3-$4 on inner steel core components.) Assemble the components using a 7/16" deep 3" extension. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN YOU MAY BUST THE CERAMICS! Use the home page which shows an exploded view of the Quad-Core Radiator to help guide assemblage. well socket on a ANY NUTS -the photograph on of the inner part you in the

Of course if you use your assemblage "as-is" you will be leaving the head of the 1/4" bolt exposed -- this is definitely a serious burn issue. In operation, this bolt becomes very hot, and touching the head of this bolt will result in an immediate severe burn! So, use a 4" ceramic saucer as a "cap" to the radiator unit. (See home page for photo of completed unit.) Be sure to use a high temperature glue or cement to secure the saucer to the base of the largest pot. We use a product called Cast Iron Stove Gasket Cement manufactured by Rutland Cement of Rutland, Vermont. (Expect to spend $1-$2 for the saucer, and $3-$4 for a small tube of the cement.) Allow the assembled and capped radiator to dry for 24 hours. Congratulations! You have (perhaps) successfully completed the first part of your manufacturing process. Part Two -- The Steel Stand Okay, so now you got your radiator, how do you suspend it above a candle? On a stand, of course, but it can't be made of wood -- real fire hazard. Ceramics would be too easily broken, another fire hazard. Metal is the only practical and safe solution for the stand. We have produced Kandle Heeter Candle Holders with several different stand designs, refining and perfecting the designs as we improved the product. The original stand was manufactured from off-the-shelf components. Three 6" flat corner brackets were assembled together to create a three legged stand. These corner brackets come with holes pre-drilled which allow for their assembling together and also supply an upper hole on the three legs to pass two lengths of ball chain through to form a cradle to carry the radiator. This was a very tedious and difficult manufacture -- getting it "just right" to effectively support the radiator in the cradle without being too loose, or too tight. But it works very well! I have included a picture of one of these early stands to give you some idea of how to make one. Finished stands were given three coats of paint, not an enjoyable process. (Expect to spend $6-$9 on brackets and bolts, $3-$4 on ball chain.) The new stand is far superior to anything that can be cobbled together from offthe-shelf components. It is a unique specific one-piece design just for the Kandle Heeter Candle Holder and is the product of State-of-the-Art Engineering and our deep concern for the Environment. The Stand is cut from 14 guage mild steel with a Computer Controlled Abrasive Water Jet by H2O WaterJet in Spokane, Washington. The legs are then folded up (by hand on a custom jig -see the movie) and twisted a bit to create an esthetically pleasing and structurally sound one piece stand. We wanted a finish that would be organic in appearance and complement the unglazed terra cotta of the Radiator. We use either a very mild acid solution to generate a natural rust coating on the steel and then we allow the stands to sit out in our coastal environment until they rust up. We retard the rusting process with linseed oil. The oil soaks through the rust into the steel and deepens and darkens the rust finish but is not glossy. (Kandle Heeter Candle Holder owners are advised to apply a very light coat of linseed oil to the Stand every 6 months.) The bottom of the stand legs are then fitted with little booties to prevent scratching table surfaces. The new design also incorporates a protrusion and a hook into each stand leg which allows for the Radiator to actually sit on the Stand and for the Radiator and Stand to be joined into One Integral Unit. Number 6 Ball Chain encircles the outer lower lip of the Radiator, and three smaller chains loop up from the hook and around the large chain. These chains tie the Radiator and Stand together into one unit. Part Three -- Integration and Packaging

The Stand and Radiator are joined together using #3 Solid Brass Black Anodized Ball Chain. The present design uses ball chain to encircle the radiator and then connect it to the stand with three short chains that pass around the longer chain and through the "hooks" on the stand legs. The former design had no way of securing the radiator to the stand and used two lengths of ball chain to create a cradle for the radiator (two lengths, if one should break the second chain would still support the unit). The assemble of the stand in the former design was such that the legs were adjusted to be very tight and physically "grab" the radiator in a grip to hold the radiator in place. The new stand either has little rubber booties or a double coating of Plasti-Kote on its legs to not mar surfaces. Two ceramic saucers complete the overall design. A 5" saucer is placed on the platform of the stand. Its diameter is such that it will not easily slide off the platform, but must be tilted to be inserted or removed. The 4" saucer will pass through the opening between the stand legs without being tilted, but nests inside the larger saucer. The jar candle goes on the 4" saucer -- this allows for the jar candle to be removed without touching the jar (by using the 4" saucer), but keeps the jar candle secure in its holder since the 5" saucer will not slide out. (Expect to pay $2-$3 for the saucers.) Surprisingly, an entire unit can be tightly packaged in a 8" x 8" x 8" box. We use recycled packaging material that we gather up at a couple of stores in town (We Recycle). We are usually able to ship within one or two days. So, let's add it all up and see just what kind of value there is in our product. The costs given will vary somewhat, and if you have some of the components lying around you will be able to save a little, but to re-cap: $5-7 for pots, $3-4 for steel bolts and washers, $1-2 for cap, $3-4 for cement, $6-9 for brackets and bolts, $3-4 for ball chain, and $2-3 for the final two saucers. (we have the additional costs of packaging, the little booties, the instruction sheet, the plastic bag it goes in, packing tape, and printing of shipping labels.) The total for the DIY Guy is $23-$33, and the 2 to 4 hours (or more) it may take to figure it all out.

v propun aici o soluie infinit mai ieftin i care dei nu are acelai randament ca panourile solare cu tuburi vidate, este suficient de bun pentru a ne asigura apa cald

gratuit chiar i n zilele nsorite de iarn. Privii imaginea de mai jos:

Dup cum se vede reprezint o eav din polipropilen de culoare neagr n care intr o plac alveolat tot din polipropilen neagr, plac foarte asemntoare cu plcile de policarbonat transparente sau de diferite culori ce se gsesc prin depozitele de materiale de construcii. Placa de policarbonat este n principal destinat construciei de sere, pavilioane chiocuri, acoperirii refugiilor pentru pietoni din staiile de autobuze, etc. Ca urmare este i aceasta destinat a sta n btaia direct a soarelui fr a fi deteriorat de radiaia solar. Pentru a obine ceea ce e n imaginea de deasupra nu trebuie dect s cumprm o plac de policarbonat de culoare neagr ( exist unele translucide dar care au o culoare neagr ). De asemenea se va cumpra cte o bucat de eav de polipropilen cu diametrul de 32 mm cu lungimea mai mare cu 20 cm dect limea plcii de policarbonat. Acestor evi li se vor conecta la capete conectori specifici. Pe diagonal aceti conectori se vor astupa cu cte un dop fcut dintr-o plac rotund din tabl sau plastic gros, intr perfect n conector. Pe lungime, evile vor fi decupate cu flexul suficient nct placa de policarbonat s intre puin forat n eav. Se lipete apoi solid policarbonatul de eav cu silicon, dup care placa de policarbonat va fi vopsit cu o vopsea neag rezistent pe ambele fee. n felul acesta obinem cel mai simplu i ieftin panou solar. Pentru a-i crete ns randamentul putem s-l introducem ntr-o cutie de tabl cu pereii izolai termic cu poliester expandat i vopsii de asemenea negru i pestecare s se afle un geam format din dou foi de sticl ntre care s fie vid sau un gaz inert. Pot fi pregtire de oricine se pricepe la geamuri termopan.

ntregul ansamblu ar trebui s arate cam aa:

Intrarea apei n panou se face prin partea de jos iar ieirea n diagonal pe sus. Schema general a ntregii instalaii se vede n desenul mic din partea dreapt sus. Pentru iarn se poate nlocui apa cu un agent antigel, care s fie circulat prin bazinul de acumulare cu ajutorul unor serpentine. Costurile de construcie ale unui asemenea panou solar sunt cam la 10 20 % fa de unul cu tuburi vidate de aceiai suprafa. Se va folosi sticl transparent normal ( nu termopan ! ) foaia de sus de 6 mm iar cea de jos de 3 sau 4 mm. Poate fi folosit i doar o foaie de 6 mm. De aici se poate trage concluzia c eu nu sunt mpotriva tehnologiilor cunoscute ca regenerabile aa cum a neles cineva dup ce mi-a citit cartea Criza energetic adevr sau minciun. Eu sunt mpotriva faptului c ele, unele dintre ele avnd eficien sczut, (de obicei fiind construite intenionat cu randament sczut ) sunt vndute populaiei la preuri exorbitante De aceea prefer s sftuiesc cititorii s nu se ncurce cu aceste tehnologii. Ca s v dau un exemplu. Un alternator ca cel din imaginea alturat, de 1 KW destinat utilrii unor microhidrocentrale, este comercializat de o firm cu activitate n domeniu la preul de peste 2500 de euro ceea ce este o adevrat excrocherie. Cci preul lui de producie e sub 400 de euro. De aceea sftuiesc cititorii s nvee s-i construiasc singuri aceste dispozitive. Succes !