NITTTR, Chennai 600 113. SKILL DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Sector Name and Code No.

. of the Trade Level Duration in hours Entry Qualification/ Eligibility for admission : Leather and Leather Goods : Shoe Lasting and Finishing : II : 6 months/ 24 weeks/ 960 hours

L.C-5

: 10th Standard Pass + ITI Pass in the trade: Fitter or Millwright Fitter Age: 16+ and below 35 years

6.

Employment opportunities

: Wage employment as- Lasting & Finishing Operators - Supervisor in Shoe Production Units
-

7.

Job/ Trade Profile

Perform alignment of various components on lasting machines Perform alignment of various components on bottom machines Perform manual lasting operations Perform operations on lasting machines Perform different types of shoe construction Perform various shoe finishing operations

Page 1 of 23

8.

Modules of Study and Time allocation

Trade: Module No. 1. 2 3 4. 5 6 7 Title of the Module

Theory

Time (in Hours) Practical Total 72 152 40 272 280 80 32

Tools, Materials & Accessories for Shoe Lasting and Finishing 48 Machines & Equipments for Shoe Lasting and Finishing 40 Practice on hand lasting methods Practice on Lasting machines 40 Practice on various types of shoe construction 120 Practice on shoe finishing operations 24 Quality Control measures in shoe lasting and finishing 24 Consolidation and Evaluation Total 312

24 112 32 232 160 56

24 648

32 960

9.

Content details of each module

: Refer Appendices 1 to 7 : (i) Mode of Assessment (A) Trade Test (Practical Exam) Weightage 70% (B) Written Test Weightage 15% (C) Viva (oral exam) Weightage 15% (ii) In conducting the trade test & viva an industrial expert should be involved. (iii) No. of Trade Tests 3 1) Lasting of shoe upper Weightage 30% 2) Shoe construction Weightage 30% 3) Finishing and Quality assurance of final shoe Weightage 10%

10. Guidelines for assessment and certification

Page 2 of 23

(iv) No. of Written tests 2 (Weightage for each test 7.5%) (v) No. of viva 2 (Weightage for each viva 7.5%) 11. Resource requirements :

The following resources will be required for training a batch of 20 trainees.

Page 3 of 23

LIST OF MACHINES Sl.No 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. Name of machine with specification details Toe Puff Attaching Machine Counter Moulding Machine Mulling Machine Toe lasting Machine Heel seat lasting machine Moccasin Preforming machine Heat Setting Machine Pounding Machine Wire brush roughing Machine Hot Air Blower or Wrinkle chaser I R Sole activator Sole Attaching Press Sole Stitching Machine Spray Booth Mog iron rod Brushing and Polishing Machine Insole Moulding Machine Soldering stick /Thread Burner Air Compressor (10 hp) Bench grinding machine Motor : 0.25HP Quantity 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 5 2 1 20 1 1

Page 4 of 23

TOOLS & ACCESSORIES S.No. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. Hammer Lasting Pincers S.S.Scale 1 S.S.Scale 2 S.S.Scale 1/2 H.S.S. hacksaw blade1x1/2 Knife holder Oil stone Thread trimmer Nail puller Pasting brushes Bone folders Adhesive can plastic Scissor 8 Cutting plier Screw driver Shoe sizing tape Shoe Last (Plastic) Size: 8 & 9 Slidometric hinge type 200 pairs -- 120 pairs for gents (3 styles and 2 sizes with 20 pairs of each) -- 80 pairs for ladies (2 Styles and 2 sizes with 20 pairs each) -- 2 pairs each Item Cuddapa Stone 1 x1x 1 thick Quantity 22 nos. 25 nos. 25nos. 25 nos. 25 nos. 25 nos. 25 nos. 25 nos. 25 nos. 25nos. 25 No 25 nos. 25 nos. 25 nos. 25 nos. 5 nos. 6 nos. 25 nos.

Solid block type Scoop last Telescopic last Last with heel plate Last with half plate Last with full plate

FURNITURE

Page 5 of 23

S.No.

Item

Quanti t y 5 nos. 5 nos. 12 nos. 3 nos. 3 nos. 2 nos. 3 nos. 5 nos. 5 nos. 2 nos.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Lasting tables with lasting jacks four in one Wooden tables for finishing operations Last storage bins Instructor table Instructor chair Class room white boards Pigeon hole cupboards for students Cupboards for raw material storage Steel racks for raw material storage Cupboards for finished goods storage

CONSUMABLES Leather & Non Leather

S.No . 1. Item Leather Uppers Open footwear - 4 Models Close footwear - 6 Models Leather bare straps ( for basic lasting practice) Leather and synthetic vamp cut components ( for basic lasting practice) In soles boards (cellulose) Leather boards Foot beds Synthetic soles PVC, TPR,PU Sole rubber sheets Shank Shank board Quantity 200 (20 Pairs in each model) 200 Pairs Each 100 Pairs 30 sheets 30 sheets 60 pairs 50 Pairs Each 30 No 250 pairs 5 nos.

2. 3.

4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Page 6 of 23

11. 12. 13.

Eva Foam sheets (insock) Moccasin thread Sole stitching thread

12 nos. 5 cones 5 cones

Page 7 of 23

GRINDERIES
S.No. Item Quantit y 5 nos. 10 nos. 10 No 3 rolls each 10 lrs. 2 kgs 2 kgs 2 lrs 6 bars 1 kg 5No 2 nos. 5 sq. ft 20 nos. 5 boxes 5 kgs 10 boxes

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17.

Rubber solution 5 litre tin Neoprene adhesive 5 Lit Tin PU Adhesive 5Lit Hot melt adhesive(poly amide & Poly ester) primers Shoe creams Shoe polishes Refreshers Waxes hardeners Rubber latex solution 5Lit Singer oil 3/1- 5 Lit Crepe rubber Silver refill Marking chalk Nails assorted Micro tacks

SPACE REQUIREMENT S.No. 1. 2. 3. Training hall Finished goods storage room Item Raw material storage room Size 500 sft 4000 sft 500 sft

Page 8 of 23

BOOKS/ INSTRUCTIONAL RESOURCES 1. S.S. Dutta, (1980) Introduction to the Principle of leather Manufacture Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association. 2. S.S.Dutta, (1980) Physical Testing Of Leather Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association. 3. R.G.Miller, (1989) Manual of shoe making England-Clarks ltd. 4. Somenath Ganguly, (2005), Comprehensive Footwear TechnologyKolkatta.Indian Leather Technologist Association. 5. B.Venkatappaiah, (1997), Introduction to modern footwear technology Chennai. -GOTETI GRAPHICS 6. J.H.Thornton, (1970), Text book of footwear manufacture London. -National Trade Press Ltd. 7. NL, Footwear Materials and process Technology, Newzealand-Leather and Shoe research Association. 8. Gillibrand ,J.(1969) Coated fabrics and shoe industry, J of BBSI 9. Ganga Radakrishnan,(1993) Polymers in Footwear Manufacture. Publication of Indian Leather,,Chennai. 10.U.S Paul, Literature on Shoe Lasts, M/S Foot Form. 11.G.A Charistie (1973)Simplified Lasting Systems.J.BBSI. 12.Steve cross. (1995) Heat setting in Modern Shoe factories SATRA. 13.Venkatappaiah.B.(1994) Adhesives in Shoe Manufacture. Publication of CLRI Chennai. 14. Venkatappaiah.B.(1993) Shoe Finishes. Publication of CLRI Chennai. 15. Manual (1973)Simplified lasting system-String lastingJ.BBSI. 16. Mark Southam (1994)Force and String lasting SATRA.U K

12. Any other information/ guidelines for implementation

: 1. Factory visits to atleast three factories manufacturing Full shoes should be arranged. 2. Focus should be on providing adequate practice for developing the skill, teaching related theory to the required extent.

Appendix I Page 9 of 23

Module - 1 1. Title of the Module 2. Module Competencies : Tools, Materials & Accessories for Shoe Lasting and Finishing : On completion of the Module the trainee will be able to: (1) Specify the function of each tool (2) Select the appropriate tool for a given job (3) Specify the function of materials and accessories required for shoe making (4) Select the appropriate materials & accessories for a given job : Tools required for shoe making Materials & their physical properties - Toe puff - Counter stiffeners - In-soles - Shank - Out soles - Heels Classification of Last - Solid block - Slidometric hinge last - Scoop last - Telescopic last Different types of Adhesives - Rubber based - Solvent based - Water based Accessories required for shoe making - Tacks & Nails - Shoe Lace - Shoe finishes o Wax o Cleaners and Refreshers

3. Knowledge components (Theory)

4. Practical Skills

5. Instructional Hours

: Practice in choosing appropriate (i) Last for a specific style (ii) Tools for a specific job (iii) Materials for a given purpose (iv) Accessories for a specific job : Page 10 of 23

 Theory Practical 6. Performance criteria for assessment 7. Reference materials

: 48 hours : 24 hours : Selection of appropriate (i) Last, (ii) Tool, (iii) Material and (iv) Accessories for a given job. : 1. S.S. Dutta, (1980) Introduction to the Principle of leather Manufacture Kolkatta.Indian Leather Technologist Association. 2. B.Venkatappaiah, (1997), Introduction to modern footwear technology Chennai. -GOTETI GRAPHICS. 3. Gillibrand, J.(1969) Coated fabrics and shoe industry, J of BBSI. 4. Ganga Radakrishnan,(1993) Polymers in Footwear Manufacture. Publication of Indian Leather, Chennai.

Page 11 of 23

Appendix II Module - 2 1. Title of the Module 2. Module Competencies : Machines & Equipments for Shoe Lasting and Finishing : On completion of the Module the trainee will be able to acquire the skills of operating the following shoe making machines: - Toe puff attaching - Counter moulding - Mulling - Toe lasting - Side and seat lasting - Bottom roughing - Sole attachment - Sole stitching - Brushing and polishing : Working principles of the following shoe making machines - Toe puff attaching - Counter moulding - Mulling - Toe lasting - Side and seat lasting - Bottom roughing - Heat reactivation - Sole attachment - Sole stitching - Brushing and polishing : Practice on operating the following machines: - Toe puff attaching - Counter moulding - Mulling - Toe lasting - Side and seat lasting - Bottom roughing - Heat reactivation - Sole attachment - Sole stitching - Brushing and polishing Page 12 of 23

3. Knowledge components (Theory)

4. Practical Skills

5. Instructional Hours Theory Practical 6. Performance criteria for assessment 7. Reference materials

: : 40 hours : 112 hours : 1. Skills of operating the machines 2. Speed of operating the machines 3. Adopting safety precautions 1. G.A Charistie (1973)Simplified Systems.J.BBSI. Lasting

2. Steve cross. (1995) Heat setting in Modern Shoe factories SATRA. UK

Page 13 of 23

Appendix III Module - 3 1. Title of the Module 2. Module Competencies : Practice on hand lasting methods : On completion of the module, the trainee will be able to perform the following lasting operations: - Insole attachment - Barestrap lasting - Vamp lasting - Fullstrap lasting - Toe puff attachment - Counter moulding - Shoe upper lasting - Roughing operations : 4. Practical Skills Insole attachment techniques Toe puff attaching methods Counter stiffener attachment & moulding Drafting principles Pulling over concepts Importance of Roughing methods

3. Knowledge components (Theory)

: Practice on - Insole attachment - Barestrap lasting - Vamp lasting - Fullstrap lasting - Toe puff attachment - Counter stiffener attachment & moulding - Shoe upper lasting - Roughing operations

5. Instructional Hours Theory Practical 6. Performance criteria for assessment

8 hours : : 32 hours : Accuracy and Speed of performing the following operations : - toe puff attaching - counter moulding - insole attaching - hand lasting - roughing Page 14 of 23

7. Reference materials

1. S.S.Dutta, (1980) Physical Testing Of Leather Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association. 2. R.G.Miller, (1989) Manual of shoe making England-Clarks ltd. 3. Somenath Ganguly, 2005, Comprehensive Footwear Technology Kolkatta. - Indian Leather Technologist Association. 4. G.A Charistie (1973) Lasting Systems.J.BBSI. Simplified

Page 15 of 23

Appendix IV Module - 4 1. Title of the Module 2. Module Competencies : Practice on Lasting machines : On completion of the module, the trainee will be able to Perform the insole attachments Perform the operations in: - Toe lasting machines - Seat lasting machines - Side lasting machines - Combined lasting machines Prepare the lasted shoe upper

3. Knowledge components (Theory) :

Classification of insoles - Built insole - Extended insole - Insole with rib - Insole with runner Various types of lasting machines - Toe lasting - Seat lasting - Side lasting - Combined seat and side lasting Various types of lasting techniques - Cement lasting - String lasting - Force lasting

4. Practical Skills

Practice on attaching insoles Practice on the following lasting machines - Toe lasting machines - Seat lasting machines - Side lasting machines - Combined lasting machines Preparing the lasted shoe upper

5. Instructional Hours Theory Practical

: 40 hours : 232 hours Page 16 of 23

6. Performance criteria for assessment

: 1) Accuracy and Speed of performing the following operations: - Toe lasting machines - Seat lasting machines - Side lasting machines - Combined lasting machines 2) Quality of the lasted shoe upper

7. Reference materials

1. R.G.Miller, (1989) Manual of shoe making England-Clarks ltd. 2. Somenath Ganguly, (2005), Comprehensive Footwear Technology Kolkatta. - Indian Leather Technologist Association. 3. G.A Charistie (1973) Lasting Systems.J.BBSI. Simplified

4. S.S.Dutta, (1980) Physical Testing Of Leather Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association. 5. Manual (1973) Simplified system-String lasting J.BBSI. lasting

6. Mark Southam (1994) Force and String lasting SATRA.U K

Page 17 of 23

Appendix V Module - 5 1. Title of the Module 2. Module Competencies : Practice on various types of shoe construction : On completion of the Module, the trainee will be able to perform the following: Conditioning of Lasted upper
Pounding Bottom roughing

Conditioning of Soles
Roughening Halogenation

Shoe constructions: - Cemented - Moccasin - Veldtschoen - Welted - Moulded

Pounding Bottom roughing

3. Knowledge components (Theory)

Conditioning of Lasted upper

Conditioning of Soles
-

Roughening Halogenation

Various construction techniques - Cemented - Moccasin - Veldtschoen - Welted - Moulded

4. Practical Skills

: Practice on the following operations: Conditioning of Lasted upper - Pounding - Bottom roughing Conditioning of Soles - Roughening - Halogenation

Page 18 of 23

Construction techniques such as: - Cemented - Moccasin - Sewn

5. Instructional Hours Theory Practical 6. Performance criteria for assessment : 120 hours : 160 hours : 1) Accuracy, quality and speed in conditioning of lasted upper and soles 2) Accuracy and speed in performing the following construction techniques: - Cemented - Moccasin - Sewn 7. Reference materials : 1. Steve cross. (1995) Heat setting in Modern Shoe factories SATRA.UK 2. Venkatappaiah.B. (1994) Adhesives in Shoe Manufacture. Publication of CLRI Chennai.

Page 19 of 23

Module - 6 1. Title of the Module 2. Module Competencies

Appendix VI

: Practice on shoe finishing operations : On completion of the Module, the trainee will be able to 1) Perform the various techniques of shoe finishing 2) Select the shoe finishes for various upper materials of shoe 3) Select the shoe finishes for various soles of shoe

3. Knowledge components (Theory)

: 1) Various unit operations in shoe upper finishing: Cleaning Hot air treeing Shoe upper dressing Attachment of accessories Sole branding 2) Various unit operations in shoe bottom finishing: Heel pairing Heel Scouring Edge pairing Stain heels Bottom polish Heel burnish 3) Various types of shoe finishing materials required for different types of shoe uppers

4. Practical Skills

: Practice on the following operations: 1) Various unit operations in shoe upper finishing: Cleaning Hot air treeing Shoe upper dressing Attachment of accessories Sole branding Page 20 of 23

2) Various unit operations in shoe bottom finishing: Heel pairing Heel Scouring Edge pairing Stain heels Bottom polish Heel burnish 3) Identifying the shoe finishing materials required for different types of shoe uppers 5. Instructional Hours Theory Practical 6. Performance criteria for assessment : 24 hours : 56 hours : 1) Accuracy, quality and speed in shoe upper finishing operations 2) Accuracy, quality and speed in shoe bottom finishing operations 3) Quality of the finished shoe : 1. Venkatappaiah.B.(1993) Shoe Finishes - Publication of CLRI Chennai. 2. Ganga Radakrishnan,(1993) Polymers in Footwear Manufacture - Publication of Indian Leather, Chennai..

7. Reference materials

Page 21 of 23

Appendix VII Module - 7 1. Title of the Module 2. Module Competencies : Quality Control measures in shoe lasting
and finishing

: On completion of the module, the trainee will be able to: Understand the principles of quality management Understand the acceptable quality standards for full shoe Understand the process of material handling for full shoe Principles of quality management Quality parameters of full shoe In-process quality control for full shoe Conveyor systems Linear Modular Material handling system in full shoe making Familiarization with quality standards of branded shoes

3. Knowledge components (Theory)

4. Practical Skills

: Practice on quality parameters of full shoe - color matching - grain matching - defects - back height - side height - sole attachment - cleaning & finishing In-process quality control for full shoe operations Page 22 of 23 Counter moulding Toe lasting Side and seat lasting Roughing Cementing Sole attaching

5. Instructional Hours Theory Practical 6. Performance criteria for assessment

Finishing

: 24 hours : 8 hours : Identification of quality aspects of shoe upper Identification of quality aspects of lasted upper Identification of quality aspects of finished shoe

7. Reference materials

: 1. R.G.Miller, (1989) Manual of shoe making England-Clarks ltd. 2. Somenath Ganguly, (2005), Comprehensive Footwear Technology Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association. 3. B.Venkatappaiah, (1997), Introduction to modern footwear technology Chennai. -GOTETI GRAPHICS 4. J.H.Thornton, (1970), Text book of footwear manufacture London. -National Trade Press 5. NL, Footwear Materials and process Technology , Newzealand-Leather and Shoe research Association.

Page 23 of 23