Journeys

Volume 5, Issue 1

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Hikes, Walks, Paddles

April 19th is a date which has thrice shaped our Nation and modeled us as a people. Without the first, neither the second or third could have existed. What are these compelling days and how have they shaped our Nation? From almost the very beginning of the early colonies in New England, the arduous toil of the farmer working on very difficult soil similarly paralleled his courageous and vigorous assertion of his new worlds rights, gradually resisting the long arm of the Crown. April 19, 1689 When the Mayflower set out for voyage continued on page 4

Three Days in April

April-May 2008

Explore Another World From Home

Culture Around the Valley To live the American dream. To learn about other cultures. To speak another language. To try something adventurous. To make long lasting friendships. These are some of the reasons students give for participating in EF Educational Homestay Programs (EHP). What might be your reason for hosting one? From July 14-August 3, 2008, thirty four students from China, already quite fluent in English, will be visiting the Blackstone Valley. Host homes with families or individuals are needed for these students so they can better understand and share the American experience. Host families would provide a bed and meals each day, yet from 9-5 weekdays, students will study at the Municipal Center in Grafton and visit attractions throughout the area. These students are top in their class in China and will also be visiting MIT, Harvard, Brown, Providence College and local Worcester colleges. Education First (EF) is the top nonprofit in its field of international student exchange and is the official translator for the Olympics. They are home based in Cambridge with local staff in the Blackstone Valley to oversee these students and provide local 24 hour local support for families and students. On weekends and evenings, the student(s) will share your family life. They will share chores, make their own bagged lunch for weekdays, and completely immerse into your family life. They might travel to NYC for one 3 day weekend. This is a great way to make friends from China while helping the students appreciate American life. You or your child or teen could even join the students for certain activities and excursions. Schools are considering adding Chinese to their language curriculum, so this could be a great introduction to

Ah Spring! Tons of Events

a new language and way of life! Please visit www.efhomestay.org for more information or contact Ellen Onorato at 508-839-8885 or email BlackstoneDaily@aol.com at anytime. Gone for a few days? Busy at work? These issues can all be arranged...so please call to learn more about the travel and other benefits you receive while experiencing another culture in your own home.

Local Coach Comes Up Big!

Journeys

Inspiring Hometown Heroes

buried in Worcesters Hope Cemetery, Plot 43, Lot 2501. Abby Kelly Foster Abby Kelly, born in 1811, was one of the most ardent feminists and abolitionists known in the United States. Her indefatiguable determination to end slavery and demand equal voting rights for all created substantial opposition when she lectured for more than two decades. She married Stephen Foster in 1845, and after staying home for a few years to care for a daughter born in 1847, she and her husband helped to hide and transport many runaway slaves passing through their federalist style Liberty Farm, now a privately owned National Historic Landmark, located at 116 Mower Street, Worcester. The Fosters refused to pay property taxes and thus, their home was auctioned off several times. Advocates and friends always bought and returned their home to them. "Few Americans can be named...who did so much for the abolition of American slavery as did the woman whose worn-out frame lies before us. She was one of the few whose words startled and aroused the land; who compelled attention; who made the guilty tremble; who forced sleeping consciences to awake; and forbade that they should sleep again until slavery ceased. We have all heard of self-sacrifice. In Mrs. Foster, we saw it. From the hour when she left her chosen work of teaching, and through all her life, a period of fifty years, she laid herself a willing offer upon the altar of humanity and truth, of her country's and of mankind's highest and enduring welfare. She took on herself the sorrows, pains, heart-anguish, stripes and wounds of her suffering sisters and brothers." Samuel May at her funeral A Friendly Indian On March 13, 1715 in Boston, a meeting was held to vote to settle a new town, build a meeting house and have the liberty to cutt grasse and timber in the Proprietors land till they come to improve and to be laid out. During 1716, three families had the courage to face the challenges of building a new settlement in the Town we know today as Sutton, MA. The families were those of Elisha Johnson, Benjamin Marsh and Nathaniel Johnson. The winter of 1716-17 was probably one of the worst ever. By February 1717, the Elisha Johnson family had run out of supplies, so Elisha Johnson left and headed towards Marlborough, MA for supplies. As Elisha traveled away from his home, he was seen by a friendly Indian. That very day, the snow started falling and eventually became one of the highest snowfalls ever. The snow was so high that it covered the Johnson cabin entirely except for the the small hole where smoke emerged from the fireplace. When the storm subsided, the friendly Indian headed out on snowshoes to the settlement. He found the cabin with the young family of Elisha Johnson inside and Mrs. Johnson said no human voice ever sounded half so sweet as did that. The friendly Indian helped to dig out the familys home and procure food and water for the family while the provider Elisha was away longer than anticipated due to the snow. Rev. William Benedicts 1878 History of Sutton reports that the family would doubtless have perished were it not for the forethought of this friendly Indian.

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Sergeant Thomas Plunkett Sergeant Thomas Plunkett, the armless hero of Fredericksburg in the Civil War, lived at 30 Aetna Street in Worcester, MA. He lost both his arms to cannon or musket blasts in the battle, yet he picked up the flag with his teeth and carried it on throughout the battle. After the Battle of South Mountain, Plunkett found an officer badly wounded, sitting and leaning against a barn, who begged him for water. Plunkett found him a canteen of water from which the officer drank a great quantity. The wounded officer grasped the stump of Plunketts left arm with both his arms, thanking him profusely for his help. Several years later, Plunkett realized that the man he had helped was none other than Rutherford B. Hayes, who later became President of the United States. Congress awarded Plunkett a Medal of Honor for his heroism and courage on the battlefield. Plunkett died in 1885 and the funeral was held at Mechanics Hall, where his picture still adorns the wall. The flag that he carried by gripping it with his teeth and still stained with his blood was brought from the Statehouse under guard and placed on his casket. He was

Dear Editor: Visitng my daughter in Douglas, I have enjoyed the beautiful Blackstone Valley area. Especially so, its parks and its access to nature. These have a pacifying effect upon my mind and spirit. I am sure that many who visit these facilities do have a similar experience - a release from inner tension. Many years ago, the famed experimental psychologist at Brown University, Dr. W. Horsley Grant, working with induced neuroses of dogs and goats, discovered that psychic recovery came (only) when the animals were let free to roam in open areas of fields in nature. More recently, psychological research demonstrated that humans stress and tensions were relieved via walks and roamings in park and in nature. Most helpful to us readers is your published information about activities and events available to us in this region. Thank you for your efforts on our behalf. Sincerely, Leo Shatin, Ph.D., F.A.PA. (Retired Professor Clinicial Psychiatry/ Psychology - Mount Sinai School of Medicine)
Do you have a Letter to the Editor or a story about the Blackstone Valley? Please send by email to: BlackstoneDaily@aol.com or by mail to BD News, 23 Fay Mt Rd, Grafton, MA 01519. For Journeys Publishing or Advertising info, please see page bottom of page14.

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A Mysterious Past
by Brennan Wall Deeply set into the woods of a rural farm on the border of the Massachusetts/Connecticut line lays a mystery in stone. Situated far from any modern structure can be found a curious hobbit-hole of stone. Shrouded in local legend, the structure resembles a combination of root cellar and burial vault. Scholars and archaeologists have spent the last few decades attempting to tease out clues to its interesting history. The stone chamber is a structure most commonly associated with the green hillocks of Ireland and Scotland. Known as a "beehive cave" to some and as a "corbelled vault" to the art historians, this mass of stone is most easily comparable to an igloo. Numerous examples exist from all around New England, but the majority are centered in Massachusetts. Towns such as Upton, Acton, Petersham, and Littleton are all well-known examples. But one would be surprised at the number of relatively unknown sites that dot the New England landscape. This stone chamber tucked away in the town of Southbridge is one example that has eluded the curious explorer for quite sometime. With a 6 foot entrance passage, curving slightly to the right, this cham-

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ber provides an example of a rarely seen construction. Stone chambers come in all shapes and sizes, some with squared rooms, others with wholly rounded features. Some are extremely tall, like the Upton example, and others seem more suited to sheep and goats, like the Pomfret chamber. In Southbridge, the construction is vernacular when compared to more common versions. There are questions that immediately flood the mind of the casual visitor to these sites. Who built these stone structures? What were they used for? Where did the builders go? These inquiries are hard to answer in an archaeological setting. There is a distinct lack of written history referring to the building and use of these assemblages. Most academic scholars claim a recent historic use, although they refuse to document and conserve these relics of the past. While these pillars of academia dismiss any prehistoric (precontact) provenance many amateur researchers are providing strong evidence to the contrary. Numerous publications, websites, and archaeological excavation reports lean towards a more astounding, and history changing, context. The Southbridge chamber is a beautiful example of stone masonry.

Without any mortar, this igloo of stone was created by the hands of a nameless mason. The construction methods are unknown, and the culture will remain anonymous. Artifacts can be seen scattered along the dirt floor; a broken beer bottle, chicken bones, and rusted bits of iron are all present in this menagerie of artifacts. The logical conclusion, and the one promulgated by academic archaeologists, is that the Southbridge Stone Chamber is nothing but a simple root cellar. Without the creative minds and enlightened theories of fresh-blooded scholars, ideas such as these will always be accepted as true. And without the hard work of enthusiasts such as members of the New England Antiquities Research Association, these sites would be lost to history, only a remnant of a past quickly being destroyed.

Southbridges mystery in stone...a cave

The Webster Chamber... Another chamber, on private land, is in the Town of Webster, only about ten miles to the east. Located on the Eastern shore of Websters Lake Chaubunagungamaug, the chamber is a beautifully constructed example of a stone chamber. Referred to as the "Webster Chamber," this dry stone chamber represents a vernacular form of construction from both examples in Upton and Southbridge. The differing styles of construction can easily be seen upon close inspection. The corbelling is toned down, and the roof and entrance rely upon slabs instead of smaller, overlapping stones. A visit to this chamber is important to understand the varying forms of stone construction present on the New England landscape. Comments/questions, email BlackstoneDaily@aol.com.

Three Days of April,

from England, King James the First was on the throne. Known as the "wisest fool in Europe," the King's son was on the throne by the time the ship arrived in the new world. The new colony sought and was granted a liberal Charter that allowed them almost total self-government, being able to elect their own Governor, Deputy Governor, and assistants to make their own laws. These daring voyagers had not left England to escape a failing economy as England was very prosperous at the time. Instead, they left for religious freedom with the intent to own land for farms as many had in England. As time went on, the Crown realized that it had granted too much freedom to the colonists. Ongoing attempts to add more controls were attempted and in 1635, colonists set up a tower on Beacon Hill should the Crown insist that a Royal Governor arrive. But other diversions kept England's King Charles busy as Cromwell's Parliament eventually took over the Crown. Even during these tumultuous times in England, attempts to retract the original liberal Charter from the colonies were made by both the King and Cromwell's Parliament. The Parliament's request in 1651 for the return of the Charter led colonists to carefully take a whole year to craft a response which still resisted England's efforts. When the "Merry Monarch" King Charles II came to power, he lightened up on the demands and allowed the original Charter to stand, except he added one demand, that the colonists should pledge their allegiance and transact all justice in the Crown's name. But in 1665, the King granted the territory between Connecticut and Delaware to his brother, the Duke of York. Realizing the growing discontent of the colonists towards the Crown, he eventually vacated the Charter in 1684. His son, James II, started his Catholic reign in 1685 and by 1686, Massachusetts' son, Joseph Dudley was named President of the new territories. Then, Sir Edmund Andros arrived at Long Wharf in Boston to become the most hated man in the colonies. Andros was escorted by 60 Red Coats and life in the colonies changed drastically. Dudley was named judge of the Superior Court and heavy taxes and rules were set forth. Selectmen and citizens failing to comply with the Crowns new rules were subjected to heavy fines and possible imprisonment. Though most of the colonies outside of Massachusetts fell in line with tolerable resignation, Massachusetts resisted, even with heavy fines and continuing redress with personal losses. Finally, Increase Mather traveled to England to plead to the King to lessen the burdensome and heavy-handed controls. The King showed some sympathy but made no changes at all.

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However, three months later in November 1688, the Kings son-inlaw, William of Orange, invaded his homeland to bring Protestantism back to the Crown. On April 4, The Englishman Winslow brought news of James II overthrow and within two weeks, colonists reacted with strength to arrest Andros and his royal officers. At noon on April 18, a Declaration was read proclaiming we do therefore seize those few ill men who have been the authors of our miseries... On April 19, the royal frigate Rose was captured and the Beacon Hill fort was surrendered. Massachusetts was again a ruler to herself. April 19, 1775 By the rude bridge that arched the flood Their flag to April breeze unfurled Here once the embattled farmers stood And fired the shot heard round the world." ~Emerson Once again, the heavy handed British control and arrogance demanded payment of exorbitant fees and taxes which were being used to pay the expenses of England's home government. Though the most dramatic story of the patriots of Worcester County will be told in the next issue of Journeys, a confrontation was imminent as Spring of 1775 approached.

General Gage ordered British troops to Concord to destroy stores and arrest the "Arch-traitors," John Hancock and Samuel Adams. The famous ride of Paul Revere woke farmer patriots who had already prepared and expected a battle, fully knowing the sacrifice. About half past four in the morning of April 19, 1775, the Red Coats entered Lexington. The militia's Major Pitcairn commanded his men to lay down their arms, yet the Red Coats were commanded to fire, killing eight patriots. Soon, the Red Coats marched on to Concord while church bells rang and chaos erupted amidst an exceptionally warm Spring, filled with blossoming fruit trees and early grains growing in the fields. "The sun shone with peculiar splendor. The morning was a glorious one." For 2-3 hours, gun fire rang out. Patriots were arriving from neighboring towns and the Brits were eventually flanked at the rear as well as from the front. Lord Percy arrived to save Colonel Smith and his Red Coats from annihilation, but patriots from 31 towns had gathered to fight. The Red Coats had been confronted and though losses had been suffered by the patriots, victory was sweet knowcontinued on page 15

The Indomitable Cappy

by Bob Haigis This is the chronicle of a young boy turned man who has pursued some most remarkable dreams. His name is Leonard " Cappy" Fournier and he was, and still is, part owner of the Bernat Mill. Yet, this story goes far beyond the huge fire that devastated the historic Capron Mill and altered hundreds of peoples' lives. Cappy's story starts in Ashland where he has lived since the age of six. His nickname comes from a mission during WWII. Apparently, Cappy's Dad and his comrades were saved by a daring Captain Butler. Hence, "Cappy" had an honorable start. At a young age, Cappy was enthralled with a structure adjacent to the Boston and Albany railroad tracks in the center of town. Known as the Ashland Hotel, the building was erected in 1832 by Captain John Stone. It had seen its better days but its history ranged from visiting notables to murder. Located just down the street from Cappy's Dad's Asland News Store, Cappy informed the owners that he'd like to own the building some day. "If you ever want to sell it, please don't before you contact me," Cappy stated confidently. He was twelve. Fast forward about 15 years to 1975. Cappy had finished college and was looking for direction. In a fateful moment, Fournier was contacted by the hotel owners who never forgot his interest. Immediately, with no idea of how banks, mortgage companies or real estate worked, his vision was revived. He audaciously approached a local bank to make his dream a reality. "We're going to restore it and open a restaurant," he told the financial officer. "And, also renovate the rooms upstairs." This was very bold thinking - especially if you consider the derelict motorcylists that resided on the top floor and traveled mostly to the bar

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Milford is known the world over for its unique pink granite, discovered in the mid 1850s and quarried for over a hundred years. Milford pink granite continues to grace the exteriors of museums, government buildings, monuments and railroad stations in Boston, New York, Washington, D.C., and Paris, France. Milford Pink granite is known as one

Milfords Pink Granite

downstairs. "Not many people wouldeven walk in front of the place. If you were walking on that side of the street, it was commonplace to cross the street, pass by the hotel, and then cross over again," said Cappy as he grinned knowingly. Perhaps Cappy's boldness and strong character won the banker's affirmation or perhaps the community understood that this could, once again, become a very special place. Fate seemed to step in to allow a deal to be made. Before long, Cappy and his high school sweetheart turned bride and lifelong partner, Janet, were knee deep in plaster, dust and bills. "We had to keep the bar open and the odious tenants upstairs to squeeze some income out of the place. My wife was a nurse, so that sure helped,

and she was right there every step of the way in the whole mess" recalled Cappy. Finally, after two years of renovation and cleaning up, John Stone's Inn was opened, complete with a locally handcarved wood sign outside with the likeness of Captain Stone. Just as boldly, Cappy and Janet jumped into becoming restaurateurs. Cappy managed the front and Janet did the cooking. And it worked! But the story doesnt end there. continued on page 6

the nations great granites because of its impressive character, particularly when used in large areas. It has a subtle color, clearly evident in its finished surface. In the rough state, the pink shades to a warm light gray that distinguishes Milford from the more typical gray stock. The stone is flecked with black mica in a wide and irregular pattern.

Cappy,

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for almost twenty years, applying his golden touch there and on other run down and derelict properties, mostly in Massachusetts. A funny story he told, dealt with a restaurant he purchased on Cape Cod. The place was kind of out of the way, and the ingenious Cappy wracked his brain trying to figure out how to get patrons to come in. Nearby was a marina, and he spotted a boat that was really classy. He asked if he could photograph it and hang the picture in his bar. The owner swelled up with pride. "It wasn't long before the guy was bringing all his friends over to see the picture of his boat," Cappy said, "and that's when the light clicked on." Soon, he was over at the marina frequently, taking pictures of boats and their owners. These pictures kept the delighted owners doing just what Cappy knew they would do - frequently bringing in friends to see and patronize the place. It was amazing how his business improved! Another "trick" Cappy used to attract business was really unique. The bar in the restaurant was an old 32 lobster boat incorporated into the building. The name on the bow was "After You." The ingenious Cappy would tell people, "come on over to my bar and have a drink. It's named after you." And, it worked! After the sale of the John Stone's Inn, Cappy's career took a different twist. By now, his reputation had spread, and he was invited to do consulting for the Mass. Turnpike Authority, critiquing all the rest areas on the "Green Stamp." In the past few years, under the watchful eye of Cappy Fournier, all the facilities on the Pike have been rebuilt at no cost to the State, by the way, Cappy said. Before he left the Authority, he had risen to the position of Chief of Operations. By 2002, as the "Pike way stations" were coming along as planned, Cappy vacated his position and began searching for two years for a new challenge. Cappy and his partner Jack Tweed, with whom he had worked on previous projects, came across an ad for the old Bernat Mill in Uxbridge. The Mill, also known as the Capron Mill, at one time was the "third largest yarn mill in the United States. A yarn company by the same name still exists today, proudly producing the same type of products that made the Uxbridge mill famous. Following negotiations in March 04, the deal was closed. The Capron Corporation (named after the owner of the first mill on the site) was formed. The massive complex consisted of several buildings and out buildings aside from the main mill that was five stories in places. It provided nearly a half a million square feet of usable floor space. The age of the structures varied from 1820 (the original wood mill building) to the main mill that was put up in 1900, and others followed. At least one of the perimeter structures has a history of its own.* Capron Corporation realized that the buildings needed work but they were very solid structurally. "When we purchased the mill, there were 42 tenants already in the mill. Most were light industrial and manufacturing, but we rented out some warehouse space as well. Some stayed and a few left," Cappy told, "but we didn't force anyone out." As we started renovating, things just seemed to fall into place. As one tenant left, we worked on the vacated space and got it ready for the next renter. Before long, consignment shops, antique stores, and boutiques were rapidly filling up the old historic mill complex. Potential tenants came from far and wide for the newly available continued on page 14

Cappy told of some creative ways that he successfully operated his business. "To get rid of the 'element' upstairs" Cappy recalled, laughing at the memory, "we opened the bar later in the day. It had been opening at 8:00 a.m., so we moved it up to 11:00. We raised the prices and the staff dressed up in shirts, ties with the gals in colonial era dresses. "We wanted to present a 'civilized' front to the patrons we hoped to attract," Cappy said. As "the boys" upstairs left, since they said we ruined the place, we renovated the upstairs." Very quickly, as Cappy and Janet envisioned it, the Inn was running smoothly and local citizens discovered one of the most pleasant restaurants in the area. Timing was just right! Soon, both the restaurant and the beds upstairs became players in a drama known as the Blizzard of '78. "People were stuck with us for over three days. We almost ran out of food, but just when we were going to be in big trouble, some of the roads opened and we got a delivery. It was a great time stated Cappy. Knowing summer business might drop, Cappy put in a patio. Shielded from the street by a thick hedge, there was hardly ever a vacant table in the mild weather. In the dining room, there were one or two tables with big, comfortable wing back chairs. The one in front of the windows was my favorite spot, and I actually would call and reserve that particular table. The food and service were great, and when we moved out of the area, John Stone's was one place we really missed. (read the sidebar of an amusing haunt.) Cappy and his family owned/operated the John Stone's Inn

A Coincidence Peg and I had met Cappy years ago when he was just beginning his career, not knowing that our paths were to cross again. The story however, is a different matter. Many area folks went to Ashland to partake of the superb cuisine at the Inn and also sample spirits from the bar. Patrons and employees alike, however, were treated on occasion to spirits of another nature: supernatural spirits. That's right: it was pretty much agreed upon, that John Stone's Inn was (and likely still is) haunted. A considerable number of "sightings" and incidents had occurred over the years. This led to an atmosphere that customers even enjoyed. Im not sure how many folks really believed the legend, but Peg and I had an experience there that sure made us wonder. On an evening visit to dine, Peg inadvertently left her pocket book hanging on the back of her chair. At home when we discovered the loss, we immediately called the restaurant. We most likely spoke to Cappy, and he said he would keep his eye open, but we figured it was long gone. Some weeks later we got a call and learned that Peg's pocket book had been found. We drove to Ashland, recovered the lost item, and heard a strange tale. The night we had called, the staff searched the place, but there was no sign of the missing item. Weeks later, it had turned up in the musty basement. Nobody knew how it got there, and nothing was missing. What would YOU think? Watch a Haunted John Stone YouTube video online: http://www.youtube.com/watch? v=dqysvjIZztQ

Whether the goal is to enjoy a springtime day trip of exploration or to more lesiurely drive a historic scenic route, the Great Road Historic District in Lincoln, Rhode Island is unsurpassed. Three hundred years of documented history span the three miles of Great Road but the road has numerous sections that follow the path of ancient Native American trails whose history may only be written in the wind. Great Road, one of the oldest thoroughfares in our country, was officially started in the 1660s and was completed in 1683. Running from Providence north into Lincoln, it continued up into Mother Town Mendon, Massachusetts, the first English settlement in southcentral Massachusetts. By 1737, it extended to the new county seat at Worcester. In 1985, Great Road was designated a Scenic By-Way by the State of Rhode Island. Not only was it the main route of travel until the early 1880s, but farmers also drove their carts by oxen to the port of Providence by way of Great Road. By then, many who transported goods began to utilize the Louisquisset Pike (1806), the Blackstone Canal (1828) and shortly after, the railroad. Much of its historic past remains but there are natural scenic thrills along this country road of roads, too. Residences include the Eleazer Arnold House (c. 1687), the Chase Farm (c. 1867), Hearthside (c. 1810), and the Valentine Whitman House (c. 1694). More history abounds with the sites of a famous mill, blacksmith shop, tavern and other buildings. Bordering Great Road at Lincoln Woods are over 600 acres of woodland and fresh water (trout inhabited), with swimming, picnic areas and even horseback riding rentals.

A Great Road To Travel Through Time

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By Diane Marie Mariani

Historic Site 1: Friends Meetinghouse (1704/1745), 374 Great Road 401.245.5680 This is the oldest meetinghouse in New England in continuous use. The one-room meetinghouse was the center of the Quaker community in northern Rhode Island. Sunday Meetings at 10:30, open for tours 3rd Saturday of month 1-4 pm. The meetinghouse has an adjacent cemetery. Stephen H. Smith of Hearthside is buried there. Continue north to the traffic light and park in the dirt lot across the intersection.

$10,000. It was an active dairy farm and included milk delivery service for a century until 1965. The Chase Farm has been preserved as a green space. It is used for activities which include summer concerts. There is also a butterfly garden. Hannaway Blacksmith Shop 401.724.1522 www.hearthsidehouse.org/hannaway The shop is located adjacent to the Chase Farm. It was originally located across from Hearthside. The shop was built as a carriage house between 1870 and 1895. In 1901, William Hannaway purchased the building and moved his business into it. Due to the proliferation of the automobile, Hannaway closed his shop in the 1920s. Open for blacksmithing demonstrations MayOctober, Saturdays 9 am-12 pm.

was captured by the U.S.S. Contstitution in the War of 1812. Shortly afterwards, Smith purchased the bell for the mill. The butterfly can be seen in the chimney of the mill, which is now a private residence. Follow Great Road to the right for about 2 miles.1/10 of a mile past Central Elem. School is the Mowry Tavern (left), next to the horse farm. Historic site 7: Mowry Tavern (1800/1820) The tavern was a popular rest stop for travelers. The horse-changing stop for stage coaches that ran between Providence, Woonsocket, and Worcester served travelers until the Providence & Worcester Railroad opened in the 1840s. The opening of the railroad ended the need for stage coach service. At that time, the tavern was then used as a farm house. Today Mowry Tavern is a private residence. The Mt. Moriah Lodge is the brick building across the street, at the intersection of Anna Sayles Road. Historic site 8: Mt. Moriah Lodge #8 (c. 1800/1804) The first structure on this site was a one-room schoolhouse, built c. 1800. In 1804, 23 local Masons expanded the building to its present size for a new Lodge to hold meetings. The meetings were on the second floor, while the first floor continued to be used as a school until 1870. In 1870, the Masons took title to the entire building. Meetings are still held there, at the Lodge. Follow Great Road to the intersection with Wilbur Road, take the right fork and continue northwards for about 4/10 of a mile.

Historic site 2: Eleazer Arnold House (c. 1687) www.historicnewengland.org This home is the oldest home in town of Lincoln. It is a fine example of a stone-ender in the state of Rhode Island. A stone ender is a house with a great stone-end chimney with makes up one entire outside wall of the house. Behind the Arnold House is the Croade Tavern, built c. 1700. It is the last remaining structure from the original Jenks Settlement in Pawtucket, RI. It was moved here in 1918. Open 4th Saturday of each month 1-4 pm. Proceed west 3/10 of a mile to the Moffett Mill.

A new covered bridge makes Lincoln Woods State Park even more special! The most fascinating way to experience Great Road is to enjoy a day, with friends or family in tow, and immerse yourselves in the history and nature that abounds. So, you dont have a GPS and you dont know what to look for? Well, dont fret. Thanks to our friends at The John H. Chafee Blackstone River Valley National Heritage Corridor, this guide will help you along! Directions to our first historic Great Road site: From Route 146: Take Route 123/Breakneck Hill Road Exit. Proceed east, down the hill to Great Road. At first light, take a right. The Meetinghouse is about 1/10 of a mile on the right.

Historic site 3: Moffett Mill (c. 1812) One of the first machine shops built in RI. It is a rare example of a wooden mill built during the first wave of the industrialization in the Blackstone Valley (1790-1820). It has produced machines, wagons, wagon wheels and shoelaces. It has recently been restored and will soon house new exhibits open to the public. 401.333.1100 Continue along Great Road for about 2/10 of a mile. Parking for Chase Farm is available just past the farm house, near the blacksmith shop. Historic site 4: Chase Farm / Hannaway Blacksmith Shop (18701895) 401.724.1522 Chase Farm: The 118-acre dairy farm was purchased by Benjamin E. Chase and his wife Alzada for

Historic site 5: Hearthside (18101811) 401. 726.0597 www.hearthsidehouse.org One of the finest Federal-style houses in Rhode Island. It was built and owned by Stephen H. Smith who resided in The House That Love Built. The legend tells of Smith who courted a woman, secretly built the grand home for her (after he won the Louisiana State Lottery), and then she refused to marry him as the house was in the wilderness. He was heartbroken. Stephen H. Smith, also built and managed the Butterfly Mill across the street from his home. Smith was also, a commissioner of the Blackstone Canal and played a key role in planning the canals route and purchasing the land. The Town of Lincoln owns Hearthside and it is open to the public for special events. Open 2nd Saturday of each month 1-4 pm.

Historic site 6: Butterfly Mill (18111813) The mill, built by Stephen H. Smith, is one of the states earliest stone textile mills. It was named after a pair of stones in the wall that resembled a butterfly. The mill is also famous for its bell. The bell was cast in Amsterdam, used on the H.M.S. Guerriere, which

Historic site 9: Valentine Whitman Jr. House (c. 1694) 401.333.1100 The second oldest home in Lincoln, this home is another fine example of a stone-ender in the state. The Whitmans were the first family to settle in Lincoln. Valentine Whitman, Sr. built the house to give to his son as a wedding gift. The house is the site where the first town meeting of he Town of Smithfield was held in 1731. It was recently purchased by the Town of Lincoln and is open during the Christmas season. Drive carefully and enjoy the history. I mean scenery. Oh, thats right this is Great Road, enjoy both! www.nps.gov/blac Photos courtesy of the Northern R.I. Tourism Council (www.tourblackstone.com) & BlackstoneDaily.com

The Barn Project: Discovering Our Past

Often we pass by a structure that stands out with its magnificence. The Fowler barn on School Street in Rockdale village, Northbridge is even more striking during Spring with its boundless daffodils and azaleas. Driving by, our imagination wanders to another era when our Valley landscapes looked very different. In fact, in 1795, Yale President Timothy Dwight remarked that though the landscape was very monotonous with tidy fields and barely any trees, there was never a more industrious or thrifty collection of farmers. He went on to say that in no part of this country are the barns universally so large and good or the enclosures of stone so good.* This barn is presently owned by the Robert Clark family and used as Clarks Dog Training facility. But what do we know about the barn, the land around it or how the Fowler family helped shape the village of Rockdale? Philip Fowler, born in 1590 came from England on the ship John and Mary sailing March 24, 1633. He (then part of Uxbridge) in 1765 when he bought 30 acres from the Aldrich family. He and his wife, Hannah had twelve children, including Bernard Fowler. Bernards son, Samuel (18031881) became a farmer in Northbridge on the same land his grandfather had farmed. But his son, also named Samuel (b.1847) helped craft many of the stone works we still see today. He was a prodigious farmer, but he also became a famous, well-respected stone mason. Some of his projects were: the seawall in Winthrop, the mill dam for Fisherville Mill in South Grafton, and almost every bridge on the Providence and Worcester Railroad. Samuel also served as a Selectmen, Assessor and Overseer of the Poor. He donated acreage to build the Rockdale Congregational Church. Take a spin by. This barn is a beauty!

Journeys

Page 8

The Wing barn along Providence Road in Northbridge is part of the former Wing farmstead built on a granite foundation from the 1700s. The house, across the street, was built by Jabiz Wing in 1820 as a tavern and stopover for weary travelers when he heard that

The Wing Farm

Blackstone Daily News is researching our agrarian past and present by tracing the history of our farmlands up through the old and new barns that exist today. As our fields and farmlands become residential landscapes, it is important to recognize the economy that sustained us before and during our industrial era and mill villages. In fact, the John H. Chafee National Heritage Corridor recently brought five nationally recognized scholars into the Valley to study our past and how to capture its significance towards the future. They stated that the significance of the farm and factory story (not the farm to factory) was critically important to America. They also agreed that the Blackstone Valley has lived to be over 80, settling in Ipswich the most intact examples of each, even and becoming a Quaker. He adopted as we grow into the 21st centurys his son and daughter-in-laws son, changes. Philip, when they died in an accident. So barn owners, please tell us your Three generations later, Samuel story. Call 508-839-8885 for an inter*The Heart of the Commonwealth, John L. Fowler, (b.1740) son of Ezekial from view, mail information to 23 Fay Mt Brooke, Cambridge U Press, 1989. Salisbury MA, moved to this property Rd, Grafton, MA 01519 or email BlackstoneDaily@aol.com. By 12/08, we expect to have photos a county road would be built along the before subsequently being rented out as of most of each towns barns or outbuildings and compile the stories of river (Rte 122). The unique wooden a rooming house for workmen buildour past and present. Thanks. and stone gate at the barn is exception- ing the steam railway. al and the granite for the house and The house and barn are barn were quarried right from the prop- privately owned but the exteerty. riors remain similar today. The Inn was used for four years Family Owned since 1969

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Page 9

Journeys

The Blackstone River Valley is filled with some great adventure, but within a mile or two span are five great sites weaving a rich fabric of our past while creating some scenic and fun-filled walks. So pack a lunch or grab some water and lets go!

Five Sites, Sweet Adventure

walk the path below the boulders and arrive at the arch bridge near River Bend Farm. Open from dawn to dusk. About a mile from Plummers Landing is one of the best views of the river snaking through the valley across from Goat Hill. It is rumored that King Philip, the Metacomet Indian chief used to peer out over the Valley, cleared of its many trees, at the time, to see long distances.

Plummers Landing, Church Street, Northbridge. 3 Options: Quick stop, 2+ mile walk to Goat Hill or 3.71 mile walk to Stanley woolen mill in Uxbridge. Free parking. Picnic tables. Plummers Landing is the former site of Israel Plummers 1837 general store and a Blackstone Canal lock. Its trailhead is part of the Blackstone River and Canal Heritage State Park along a very well preserved section of the canal. Almost 3/4 of a mile in along the wooded trail, there is a field with a footbridge at its far side to cross before reaching the towpath which eventually brings you to Rice City Pond and Goat Hill Lock, the second most preserved lock along the canal. From the lock to Hartford Avenue is still another walk, Goat Hill Lock Walk, described in reverse below. Lookout Rock - view also seen in photo at top. Park on Quaker Street and walk up the path (about .4 mile) until you reach the large boulders overlooking the valley. It is possible to

Park is a 557-acre park operated by the Army Corps of Engineers. Park facilities include five miles of trails for hiking, biking and horseback riding and a swimming area at Harrington Pool, formed by the West River. Ranger programs are also offered. Open Memorial Day to Labor Day.

starts at Hartford Avenue, Uxbridge, MA., across from the Tri-River Health Center. Park in the field or across the street near the arch bridge.

Goat Hill Lock Walk, Hartford Avenue, Uxbridge The Goat Hill Trail follows the path of the Blackstone Canal along the west side of the Blackstone River. The trail goes all the way to Plummers Landing but many walk to Goat Hill Lock, the second most intact lock of the former canal. It is a fascinating walk, with old cut granite slabs and even one stone cutting tool still stuck in a granite boulder along the way. The scenery is very different today than the clear-cut landscape that was viewed in the 18th19th centuries as wood was scarce due to its use as fuel and in construction. The trailhead to Goat Hill Lock

River Bend Farm Walk to Stanley Woolen Mill 287 Oak Street, Uxbridge, MA Blackstone River and Canal Heritage Park (508) 278-7604. Picnic tables Perhaps the most well-known site in the MA side of the Valley, the River Bend Visitor Center is open daily with canoe access and easy trails, including the .97 mile canal walk to the historic Stanley Woolen Mill where civil war uniforms and much more were manufactured. There is another short canal walk to the famous arch bridge and plenty of fields for kids to roam. PDFs of the trails and further information on activities and trails can be found at: www.BlackstoneDaily.com or www.nps.gov/blac

West Hill Dam 518 East Hartford Avenue Uxbridge, MA 01569 (508) 2782511 http://www.nae.usace.army.mil/recre ati/whd/whdhome.htm Site of the May 3, 2008 Fishing Derby for Youth, West Hill Dam and

Local Coach Awarded Highest Honor

Mike Elster from Sutton, MA has been named US Youth Soccer adidas Boys Competitive Coach of the Year! This great honor was bestowed on the basis of sportsmanship, player development, personal coaching development and community involvement (citizenship). Mike Elster began his soccer career at age 12 as a player for the then new Shrewsbury Youth Soccer program. His passion for the game continued as the co-captain of the first St. Johns High School Soccer State Champion team in 1986 before playing at Connecticut College in New London, CT. Upon graduation from college, Mike moved to Virginia and began his coaching career in the National Capitol Soccer League. When he returned to Massachusetts in 1998, he became the Junior Varsity coach for Shrewsbury High School. More recently, Mike has been a long time board member and coach with Sutton Youth Soccer, board member and coach with the Fuller Hamlets Soccer Club, District Select Coach, player on a mens indoor team at the Habitat and outdoor Fuller Hamlets team, and the Boys Varsity Coach at Sutton High School for the past 2 seasons. One of Mikes proudest accom-

Journeys

Page 10

Ed Gendron of Uxbridge is a man of many monikers and many talents. Often known as Ed the Painter throughout the Valley, he is also known for his many years as Ed, the volunteer Grafton firefighter. But Ed has struck out in what might be considered an unusual venture especially for a hands-on blue-collar type of guy. With 126,000 independent representatives throughout the entire country, with only 24 men, Ed holds the distinction of being only one of ten men to consistently hold monthly jewelry home parties! One might ask how he got involved with this line of work. In 2006, Eds sister hosted a Silpada jewelry party. During a conversation, the Silpada representative asked if someone knew of a good painter at a fair price. Of course, Eds name was mentioned and the rest is history! Ed had many conversations

Ed The Painter Adds New Twist

over the ensuing months, from the the same as used by Tiffanys. Silpada growing difficulty of climbing ladders Designs use of spectacular gemwith maturing knees to the great styles stones, natural materials and eclectic and quality yet affordability of this designs is what makes Silpada attractive Designs' line of jewline of elry. He handcraftliked knowed jewelry ing that truly each and exceptionevery piece al. of Silpada Designs By Jewelry is, February in its own 2007, Ed way, one of was off a kind. and runIndividual Norm Abrams and Ed Gendron at Willard Clock House ning with Silpada artithis partsans from all over the world meticutime venture which he has seen lously render each unique Silpada become a wonderful opportunity, for Designs creation and incorporate only men or women, with its flexibility and the absolute finest .925 Sterling Silver, great earning opportunities.

plishments is the creation in 2002 of an annual charity soccer tournament with his wife, Heather, and Sutton Youth Soccer where all proceeds have gone to the Kicks for Cancer program on behalf of leukemia and lymphoma. More recently he has worked closely with the New England Revolution in support of their new foundation. The nomination included many letters of support from colleagues, parents, and players. Mike was named Massachusetts Boys Soccer Coach of the Year in the late Spring of 2007. In December 2007, he was notified by Massachusetts Youth Soccer that he had been chosen as the Region 1 Boys Coach of the Year in the Competitive Division. Region 1 extends from Maine to West Virginia. As Region 1 winner, Mike was one Suttons Mike Elster with award plaque and his three sons of 4 finalists for the national award enhance one of their players abilities sport he loves and making a difference and invited to the US Youth Soccer and quality of life. US Youth Soccer in the lives of the kids he coaches. National Conference. The national and adidas are proud to highlight these Mike Elster was recognized by the Boys Competitive Coach of the Year New England Revolution professional was announced at the US Youth Soccer Competitive Coaches of the Year for their time and efforts in contributing to soccer team at their home opener Awards Gala on Friday, February 8, America's youth through the great against the Houston Dynamo on 2008 as part of the US Youth Soccer game of soccer. By promoting teamSaturday, March 29, 2008 at Gillette adidas Workshop in Pittsburgh, PA. Stadium. A party was held at The quote from US Youth Soccer sums work, discipline, fitness and fair play these coaches are making a differNorthbridge High School before the it up best, These coaches have comgame to celebrate Mikes honor. mitted to continued education and self- ence. Mike Elster has spent his entire sacrifice to give back to the sport they coaching career giving back to the love with the hope that they might

Ed stated If a man who is a painter contractor, married, but enjoys being around people and sharing a beautiful product as well as make 10K his first year can do it, anyone can. Eds enthusiasm is boundless for this new part time venture. Apparently, there are hundreds of thousands of Americans out there who feel the same way. In only ten years time, this venture started by two first grade room moms in Kansas has grown into a multi-million dollar company. Silpada provides customers with a unique hand-crafted product and great customer service while creating a flexible, creative and unlimited opportunity for people like Ed. So if anyone out there is looking for a new opportunity or some great jewelry, contact Ed the Silpada Guy at www.mysilpada.com/edward.gendron.

Page 11

The Poison Stream

Slaters was Americas first waterpowered cotton manufactory; however, the Worcester outfit, despite its proximity to Mill Brook, relied on manual power. For the record, the Worcester Cotton Manufactory never posed a threat to Samuel Slaters business it failed in August of 1790, just months prior to Slaters triumph. Water-powered cotton spinning remained well beyond Mill Brooks capacity, even after Arkwright waterpowered technology became widely available. The brook was simply too small. Too slack. Actually, none of Worcesters streams had enough juice. As Margaret Erskine wrote in Worcester: Heart of the Commonwealth, not one of them was worthy of the name river and not one of them was navigable by any vessel larger than a small rowboat or canoe. The dearth of water-power imposed serious constraints on Worcesters development during the 19th century. But local artisans adapted. Barred from textile manufacture, they built smaller mills to produce the tools and machinery used in textile production. Certainly they found no shortage of customers in the Blackstone Valley. It has been suggested that Worcesters early specialization in machine production influenced its later role as a stronghold of American technology. Mill Brook might have escaped its sad fate if not for another obstacle to Worcesters growth the village was landlocked. Surrounded by steep, thickly wooded hills, Worcester had no cheap means of shipping its goods to market. Primitive, treacherous road conditions prompted wagon haulers to charge maximum fees for shipping to or from Worcester. Consequently many goods never made it past the towns borders. They were sold or bartered within Worcester at below market value. By the same coin, goods imported from Boston to Worcester were sold in town at prices far above market value. Incredible as it may seem, it was cheaper for a Boston merchant to ship goods 3,000 miles overseas to Liverpool, England, than to haul them 40 miles overland to Worcester. That extra expense was passed along to local buyers. The Blackstone Canal was built to alleviate the villages transportation woes. And, for a time, it did. Worcester products were carried inexpensively by canal barge to Providence, where they were sold to Rhode Islanders or loaded onto export ships. Likewise, imported goods were floated up to Worcester at prices that suited everyone. The canals northern extremity annexed part of Mill Brook. In its natural state, the brook flowed south until meeting a muddy, marshy islet which split the stream in two. One branch forked west; the other followed a steady, southerly course. Both branches merged again a slight distance downstream. The latter branch (steady, southerly) was acquired by the canal company. This segment began at the Worcester canal basin on Central Street and extended south to Millbury Street, near the Grafton town line. In the late 1820s, engineers and workmen, under the supervision of an Irish contractor named Tobias Boland, reconfigured this part of the stream. They erected stone walls and dredged the muddy bottom to allow heavilyladen boats to pass. Thus Mill Brook became part of the Blackstone Canal trench. To supply water for the canal, the muddy islet dividing the stream was sucked dry. As the former wetland firmed up, Boland deemed it ripe for development. He purchased some acreage and built several tenements on the land. Boland filled the apartments with his fellow Irishmen, many of whom had traveled to Worcester to work as laborers on the Blackstone Canal. When the canal dig was finished, these men and their families found employment in Worcester factories, which proliferated along Mill Brook as the new canal ushered new business into town. Unfortunately, the quality of the canal service degraded rapidly, for reasons that included seasonal droughts, floods and corporate mismanagement. In 1835, the Boston and Worcester Railroad opened, effectively putting the canal out of its misery despite that it had brought new industries to town and increased the population by 10,000. Like a dream dispelled, the canal boats and the canal men faded away. The only traces of their passage were the granite walls lining Mill Brook, where the water lay stagnant in the absence of manmade currents. Worcesters population continued to climb, notably in the Island District (as Bolands neighborhood became known). Hordes of new Irish immigrants arrived during the 1840s potato famine. Desperate and unskilled, they gratefully accepted jobs in the Mill Brook factories. They also took up residence among their fellow countrymen in the nearby Island District. Overcrowding was inevitable. Churches, schools, more tenements and people, people, people were successively crammed into the Island. This was Worcesters first workingclass neighborhood, home to the huddled masses and bounded on both sides by a piddling stream called Mill Brook. But it was paradise compared to what lay ahead. Ichabod Washburn was putting the screws to Mill Brook as early as 1831.

Journeys
by Joe Doherty

The proximity of St. Patricks day inspires me to bring you this story today (Blood On the Blackstone will return next time why not use this break to catch up on past chapters at www.blackstonedaily.com/ourriver.htm) . So slip on your Hazmat suit and prepare to get your feet wet in The Poison Stream. In 1878, a suicidal Worcester resident plunged into Mill Brook, a slow, shallow stream in the citys south end. Not with an expectation of drowning, but of being poisoned to death. Mill Brook was a vile, stinking brew of raw human waste and deadly industrial pollutants. On an average day, three million gallons of untreated sewage were pumped into Mill Brook, more so after a heavy rain. The slop also contained highly toxic quantities of lead, arsenic, cadmium, chromium, electroplating waste acid, mercury, copper and zinc all dumped by Worcesters mammoth wire mills and other metal-working shops. The would-be suicide victim believed that the act of immersing himself in that fetid soup would cause instant death. Although it sounds strangely plausible, his reasoning proved wrong. In the end, the poor wretch was rescued. Alas, Mill Brook was not. Before white settlers imposed their dreams of wealth on central Massachusetts, Mill Brook existed in a pristine state. Its clean, shimmering depths were disturbed only by native fish and fishermen. Deer and other wildlife made daily visits to the brook. Migratory birds used it as a way station on their long, seasonal journeys. So many comings and goings, yet for centuries the only traces left behind were imprints in the soft brookside mud, and these lasted only until the next rain. But by the early 1700s, white men had made an indelible mark upon Mill Brook. Though a small, uninspired stream, Mill Brook was the best of a bad lot and so became the nucleus of early Worcester (known then as Quinsigamond Village). Grist mills and sawmills soon sprang up along the brooks low-lying banks. In 1760, the manufacture of caustic potash, or lye, began in the vicinity. Few people know that Americas first cotton-spinning operation got underway at Worcester, let alone on the banks of Mill Brook. But its a fact the Worcester Cotton Manufactory predated Samuel Slaters mill at Pawtucket by at least two years.

Washburns screw- and wire-making factory was located in the Northville section of Worcester, bordering upon Mill Brook. During his tenancy at this small shop, Washburn and his partner, Benjamin Goddard, invented a machine capable of drawing about 50 pounds of wire a day. It was a pivotal event for American steel wire manufacture. Wire drawing which is the process of stretching, or drawing, steel rods into wire had proved an elusive art in America. A few manufacturers had attempted it before Washburn, but the results were so poor that it tended to excite a prejudice against American wire. Even among Americans. Ichabod Washburn took it as a personal challenge. He set out to create a product that would bring the British to their knees, for at the time England was the worlds foremost manufacturer of wire. A born innovator, Washburn soon patented a drawing block, the likes of which had never been seen in England or the United States. It enabled a single worker to draw an unprecedented 2,500 pounds of wire a day. With this workhorse in its stable, the firm of Washburn & Goddard swiftly trampled the British competition. In fact, after the Hon. Stephen Salisbury built Washburn a new mill in 1834, the importation of British wire ceased altogether. By then, Washburn and Goddard had parted ways. Under the roof of the new mill, the 36-year-old Washburn persevered in steel wire manufacture. The Grove Mill, as it was called, verged on Mill Brook. To supply a head of water for the factory, the brook was dammed, flooding what was once a meadow belonging to Salisbury. According to Margaret Erskine, Salisbury first excavated the meadow to form a basin for the new mill pond, destroying a shallow pool overhung by a grove of willows, a favorite swimming place. This bit of the rural past survived only in the name given to the street that the factory faced, which was called Grove Street. The factory site was enormous, occupying more than 23 acres. The mill alone covered twelve acres. Geographically speaking, the Grove Mill couldnt have had a better location. In those days, steel wire was used primarily in the manufacture of carding machines. And no city in America produced more carding machines than Worcester. Business boomed. In 1842, Washburn took a new partner, his twin brother, Charles. Together the Washburns constructed a brand new rolling mill at Quinsigamond Village, a short distance south of the Grove wire mill and also within the Mill Brook watershed. The Grove Mill became continued on page 12

Ah! Spring & The Arts

These are just a few art exhibits and concerts not to be missed! Sunday, April 13, 4 p.m., St. Pauls Cathedral, 38 High St., Worcester. The Master Singers of Worcester conducted by Artistic Director Malcolm Halliday and joined by Worcester organists Ian Watson and William Ness will present music showcasing the splendid acoustics and magnificent pipe organs at each end of St. Pauls Cathedral. Psalm 92 by Jewish Italian composer of the Renaissance, Salamone Rossi, and Magnificat by Spanish composer Antonio Soler, French composer Louis Viernes Messe Solenelle, op. 16 and the Youth Chorus. Tickets $18-20. 508842-1349 or www.mswma.org. Apr 27- May 28 Mirror, Mirror on the Wall - Sixth annual Exhibit at 134 year old Goddard House, 1199 Main Street, Worcester. Free. This exhibit will explore reflections, what lies beneath them, and inspire the viewer to contemplate the immense diversity of the human condition, including values and beliefs, layers of awareness, cultural perspectives, and aging. 508-7534890. goddardhomestead.org/whatshappening.htm Sunday, April 27th 2 p.m Ecumenical Service at East Blackstone Quaker Meeting House, 197 Elm Street, Blackstone. Rev. Denis Hardy of Christ Community Church of Blackstone will serve as guest pastor. John Staples, organist. This is a historical site. Also, Sunday, May 18th 2 p.m. May 2-4 - BVAA Spring Art Show & Sale - Fri., May 2nd 7-9 pm. Sat. May 3rd - Exhibit 10-4:00 pm - Awards at Noon. BVAA Family Art Festival. 10:30-4 pm - Fun and activities for kids and adults in Alternatives Plaza. Sun, 5/4 12-4. www.bvaa.org Saturday, May 3, Symphony & Salsa" at Milford Town Hall 7:30 PM

Journeys

Page 12

Rimsky Korsakov Fire Dance and much more. 508-478-5924 www.claflinhill.org May 16-18 - The Grafton Fine Art & Music Festival at the Grafton Municipal Center, 30 Providence Road, Grafton. Fri, 5/16 - 6:30-9 PM Opening Night Reception & Awards ceremony. Sat, 5/17 - 10-6 PM & Sun, 5/18 Noon-4PM. Exhibit, workshops and musical performances. www.graftonartsfestival.org May 18 - Annual Talent Show at St. Anns Art & Cultural center, aka the Lil Sistine Chapel...a true art treasure. www.stannartctr.org Sidenote: Gigis Art & Global Specialty Shop, filled with international art and treasures is moving next to Woonsockets Museum of Art & Culture, S. Main St, Woonsocket, RI. Events? www.BlackstoneDaily.com

Alternatives 1826 Brick Mill Heritage Gallery or Singh Performance Center, 50 Douglas Rd., Whitinsville. 508-234-6232: Gallery Hours: M-F 9-4. Weekend hours by appointment ~ Thru Apr 25: Susan Champenys Watercolors on Valley Mills. ~ Fernald Photographs by Derrick TePaske - Opens Friday May 2 4:306:30 PM Show runs through June 28. ~Many Moons Based on a book by James Thurber. Stepping Stone Community Theater on May 2, 3, 4 8:00 PM at Singh Performance Center ~ Ribbon Cutting Celebration - May 29 -31st. ~ 23rd Annual Valley Friendship Tour May 31. Fun community triathlon fundraiser. A fun day for a great cause! www.altrntvs.org/in_the_news.asp

Our River: The Poison Stream,

known as The Northworks while the new rolling mill was nicknamed The Southworks. Charles Washburn called it quits in 1849, but the demand for Washburn wire showed no signs of letting up. In 1850, Ichabod Washburn introduced his son-in-law, Philip Moen, as his new partner. Washburn & Moen wire earned respect from coast to coast. In the 20 years since the drawing block was unveiled, the companys product list had expanded to include galvanized telegraph wire, wire for sewing machine needles, crinoline wire for hoop skirts, iron wire for gun screws, piano wire, and all kinds of round, flat or oval steel and iron wire. In the 1880s, the decade of expansion in the West, Washburn & Moen was recognized as the worlds leading manufacturer of barbed wire. The company supplied all the ranches in the American west. In 1882 alone, the Worcester mills produced 120 million pounds of barbed wire. Washburn & Moen was a genuine American success story. As the company expanded, so did the City of Worcester. The wire mills were among the citys leading employers. At the peak of production, the Northworks mill is said to have employed more than 3,000 people, many no doubt Irish immigrants from the nearby Island District neighborhood. Washburns decades of success also helped to ensure the growth of Worcesters metals industry. Metals shops such as the Crompton Loom Works started competing for space along Mill Brook. Like Washburn & Moen, these manufacturing operations required water to fuel steam-conversion engines and to make chemical solutions. Chemicals and heavy metals were part and parcel of the wire-making process. For example, telegraph wire had to be galvanized for strength. A 19th-century industrial historian explains what the process involved: Mr. Washburn secured the control of an English patent for a process by which the wire is passed through a tube heated so as to bring it up to a slight red heat, and through a cold acid bath from which it emerges in perfectly clean condition Wire made in this way has borne the weight of trees falling upon it without breaking. Judging by the process required to make crinoline wire, hoop skirts had to be even tougher: The steel used in making crinoline wire is imported from England in the form of coiled rods of about one quarter of an inch in thickness. The first operation to which it is subjected is heating it to about a bright-red heat by which it is softened. It is next cleansed with an acid to remove all oxide from its surface, after which it is coated with rye flour and dried It is now ready for drawing Following a series of strenuous drawing operations, the now-flattened

continued from page 11

They told me as an interesting fact and a recommendation that a worker in the cleaning house never had any respiratory infections; it was much later that I found out the reason, namely after a month or two in that atmosphere, the respiratory tract simply disappeared After my first week in the cleaning house I found my handkerchiefs coming back from the wash had pairs of brown spots just as far apart as my nostrils and the following week the spots had been replaced by holes. I could snort a hole through a handkerchief in two tries. The mess, mud, slime and acid went through the floor, which was of chestnut plank laid on edge and laid open to let the slop drain through. I got down between two tubs once and peered into the area beneath the floor, which I can best describe as a buffalo wallow. Nobody ever went there except one old derelict who was said to know where all the pipes and connections were. Mystery drainage pipes, sewage lines, groundwater, storm runoff in varying degrees, all of these flushed toxic industrial chemicals, heavy metals and PCBs into Mill Brook. It was more than the little stream could handle. In 1992, a research team observed that during the wire mill age, beginning in the 1850s, Mill Brook must have gone stone cold dead. continued on page 13

wire is hardened by passing it through a bath of red-hot lead, then through a trough of oil where it is quenched, then through a bath of slightly melted lead This process for tempering is patented by this firm. Repeated wire immersions no doubt left impurities suspended in the bath fluids. To maintain process quality, the manufacturer must have periodically purged and replaced the spent acids, oils and molten lead. Even today, metalworking fluids have to be replaced once they start degrading. Of course, today we have all manner of disposal methods and treatment procedures for waste fluids and metals. But in 19th-century Worcester? Look no further than Mill Brook. Kenneth Lewis, a former employee of Washburn & Moen during the early 20th-century and author Steel Wire In America, describes how waste acid was disposed of at the Northworks mill: It was just thrown away in the handiest and most direct fashion it soaked into the ground, trickled to some low-lying boggy area, or found its way by adventitious or prepared channels to a neighboring stream. Lewis left no doubt as to the caustic nature of these chemicals. His description of life inside the mill cleaning house is absolutely frightening: The cleaning gang wore rubber boots, chiefly because the slop and fumes ate the nails out of their shoes. Their teeth were gone with the wind.

Fishing Derby For Y outh

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Our River: The Poison Stream,

century, a pestilence swept through Worcester, spreading disease, death and social unrest through the citys east side. It had a name, this pestilence. And a familiar one at that: Mill Brook. By 1873, the stream was an abomination. Its foul waters ran thick with industrial poisons and raw domestic sewage. Regarding the latter substance, pollutant levels actually climbed after Worcester installed its state-of-the-art water carriage sewer system in the early 1870s. The previous system had first channeled all organic waste into cesspools, where bacterial action broke it down naturally. Only then was it shunted into Mill Brook. However, the new system, approved by the Massachusetts General Court in 1867, made provision for 44 separate sewer lines to empty directly into Mill Brook, with no pre-treatment whatsoever. This amounted to an average dryweather discharge of 3 million gallons a day, observed a 1992 research paper, with about 21,900 tons of fecal matter passing down the stream in one year (add to this the amount of animal, street wash and other waste contributed). Confined behind the stone walls of the defunct Blackstone Canal, the squalid stream oozed along the perimeter of the Island District, the citys poorest and most densely populated neighborhood. It sloughed past numerous and shabby tenement doorways. Past pale, pinched children with wrinkled noses and watering eyes. Past their parents, too, whose everheavy hearts recalled the green fields, clean streams and fresh air of Ireland. The new sewer system was ostensibly prescribed for the good of the public health. But before many years had rolled by, it became sorely apparent to many Worcester residents that the sewer project benefited not the public good, but instead only the upper class residents of Worcesters well-to-do During the latter half of the 19th hilltop neighborhoods. On December 28, 1884, the editor of the Worcester Sunday Telegram observed: Our wealthy residents live in elegant homes on all the hills of Worcester, they have unrestricted fresh air and perfect sewage, their streets are wellcleaned and lighted, the sidewalks are everywhere and Elm Park, that little dream of beauty, is conveniently near. The toilers live in the lowlands, their houses are close together, the hills restrict the fresh air, huge chimneys pour out volumes of smoke, the marshy places give out offensiveness and poison the air, the canal remains uncovered, the streets are different, the little ones are so many. While the families of the rich can go to the mountains or to the sea during the hot months of summer, the families of workers must remain at home The powers of imagination cant begin to summon the cloying, noxious stench that rose from Mill Brook in the blistering afternoons of July and August. Summer after summer, the Irish immigrants of Green Island as the Island District came to be called suffered through the miasma, though not in silence. For years they demanded that steps be taken to remedy the sewage problems of Mill Brook. But deaf ears were as epidemic among politicians then as they are today. And people paid the price. According to the 1992 research, The death rates on the east side exceeded those on the west side until 1920, and smallpox remained on the east side long after it had been eradicated in the rest of the city. It took nothing less than outcry and lawsuits from communities downstream before Worcester and state officials finally gave serious consideration to the Mill Brook dilemma. In the 1870s, Millbury complained about foul odors, kicking off a 10-year legal battle between that town and the City of Worcester. Upper Blackstone Valley manufacturers also griped about the pollution, charging that it made the water unsuitable for industrial use. In the summer of 1881, schools of dead fish bobbed to the surface of the river at Millbury, causing the town fathers to demand pollu-

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tion abatement from Worcester. The city refused, citing the expense as prohibitive. The following year, a special committee of the Massachusetts General Court heard arguments for and against mandatory pretreatment of Worcester sewage. Under oath, Millbury residents recounted episodes of abhorrent stench, related illness and other problems associated with Worcesters waste stream. But Worcester proponents brushed off the accusations, insisting that progress and urban growth take a necessary and unavoidable toll. They suggested that Millbury look to its own sewage system to find the source of the problem. C.D. Morse, a prominent Millbury manufacturer and civic leader, subsequently sued the City of Worcester for pollution abatement. The case was heard by the Supreme Judicial Court in 1885 but stuck down on the basis that Worcester had state permission to pump untreated waste directly into Mill Brook. Nevertheless, the lawsuit seems to have gotten the message across in 1886, a close vote in the state legislature required Worcester to build a sewage treatment facility within four years. The order was carried out. Worcesters first sewage treatment plant came on line in 1891. Unfortunately, the chemical precipitation methods employed at the treatment plant did little to neutralize the filth pouring out of the city. An 1895 report by the Massachusetts State Board of Health states, The public nuisance caused by the sewage of the City of Worcester continues unabated the stench has been worse during the past season than ever before. Maybe Worcester couldnt help Millbury, but in its magnanimity the city decided to improve life for the poor Irish residents of Green Island. In 1894, city engineers and construction crews began the arduous task of burying Mill Brook. They built a stone arch roof over the old Blackstone Canal from Salisbury Pond to the southern end of the city, then buried it, effectively removing Mill Brook from sight and smell, with only a shadowy outlet to attest to its existence. The eastern branch was similarly interred.

Within 10 years, virtually no sign of Mill Brook remained. Where once the waters flowed stood new buildings, streets and electric railways. Yet below picturesque Lincoln Square, below Harding Street, Blackstone Street and other Worcester thoroughfares, Mill Brook still crept along, carrying the virulent wastes of a fast-growing city. Down there in the darkness, it still flows today. Throughout this tale you may have wondered how the sad history of Mill Brook comes to bear on the Blackstone River. Now I will tell you. Many people dont know it, but the Blackstone officially begins in Worcesters south end, at a point where two smaller streams converge. One is the Middle River. The other is Mill Brook. (The author gratefully acknowledges Jody Emel, Andrew Lea, Bill Meyer and Doug Reynolds, whose research for the 1992 Worcester: Headwaters of the Blackstone conference formed the basis of this article.) 1994, 2008 by Joe Doherty PO Box 31 South Salem NY 10590-0031 riverwritr@aol.com

Five New Blackstone River Coalition Publications to Protect Our Water A Homeowners Guide to Protecting the Watershed A Small Farm Owners Guide to Protecting Water Quality A Horse Owners Guide to Protecting Water Quality Low Impact Development Practices a manual for developers, engineers and contractors The Blackstone River ~ Clean by 2015 an overview of the progress made and the next steps to a cleaner Blackstone River All can be found at town halls or as PDFs at www.BlackstoneDaily.com

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Cappy,

Journeys

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thoughts were for his tenants. "There were some folks in there that liked to work after hours. Sometimes they were there all night, or even came in real early in the morning." Cappy didnt have long to think about it before Johl called back. "The fire is already out of the roof," he relayed. As he drove the thirty-five minutes from Ashland to Uxbridge, Cappy's imagination worked in high gear, and all the what ifs, maybes, and hopes became entangled in each other, and seemed to overpower him. Being a member of Uxbridge C.E.R.T, and an ex fire fighter, I also smoke as I came out of my house, told me all I needed to know: something very bad was happening in Uxbridge! One thing Cappy kept in his head all the way, was that he just knew that the fire department would be able to save his business, and the products of all his tenants: they just had to! Once on the site with one look at the huge tower of flames and smoke surging through the roof and up into the morning sky, he knew in his heart that his hopes were all in vain. He conferred with fire officials and learned that the first alarm from sprinklers in the mill had come in around 4:15. Uxbridge responded, entered the complex, but even then it was too late. Two critical factors came into play almost from the start. The first line of defense in any industrial fire is the sprinkler system. Unfortunately due to the age of the building, and undocumented changes to the system over the years, the system in the mill was impaired. The second circumstance that added to the disaster was the presence of, again undocumented, open chases and hollow spaces from the basement to the top floor. While the Uxbridge Fire Dept. entered the building, located the source of the fire and poured water on the visible flames, the fire had already raced up one of the channels and was breaking out of the roof. Even at that early stage, they knew the danger and the chief ordered his men out of the building after every effort to ensure no one was inside. The tragedy and lessons of the Worcester Cold Storage fire will never be forgotten. From there on, the fate of the Bernat Mill complex was unchangeable. As any fire fighter knows, trying to extinguish an out of control fire in an old, huge, multi story sprawling complex like the Bernat Mill, at best is an exercise in frustration and futility. The firefighters secured the surrounding area and worked to keep the conflagration from spreading. An army of firefighters arrived from all over the region and one bit of fortune was the absence of high winds. Millions of gallons of water were poured into the complex as the flames consumed everything combustible. If anything was made easier for those fighting the inferno, it was the readily available source of water. Aside from the multitude of hydrants in the area, the mill complex sits on the banks of the Mumford River. Several pumpers were able to draft water to supply thirsty nozzles aimed at the flames and lines were run from engines drafting from the Blackstone River not far away. As Cappy and Jack watched the unthinkable unfold, their hopes and plans for the Bernat Mill Complex evaporated in clouds of billowing, continued on page 15

space at reasonable rent. But something else made the place special the attitude of the owners made it a community. "We treated folks fairly, and there wasn't anything we wouldn't do for them within reason.We were like a big family. There were very few people renting from us that I would hesitate to invite to my own home. Everything was just falling into place." Cappy said with a sad smile. Cappy and the Mill only experienced the First Night celebration for two years but both were noteworthy successes. "We had bands, magicians, acts for kids, food courts set up, craft shows and more.At the very first celebration, in spite of bitter cold, we had around four thousand people come through the place. It was wonderful, and the shop owners were elated." "By early 2007, we had sixty eight tenants in place, with a waiting list. We were planning for a movie theater, a health club, other restaurants and more. Things were just going so well," Cappy said. Then, on Saturday, July 21st, 2007, there were two phone calls to Cappy's home at around 5:00 a.m. Both came from Cappy's foreman, Johl Delorey. He told Cappy that there was a fire in the mill - someplace - but not to bother coming out. Things seemed under control. Of course, this alarmed the half awake Cappy to no end. His first

got a call around 5:30 to report to the Police Station for duty at the fire site. It had been a long time since I had answered a fire call in the night, and the two words "mill fire," along with the fly ash and the pungent odor of

*The ex carriage house on Depot St, was built in 1915 as a motor pool and maintenance location for personal vehicles owned by the managers of the mill. The badly in need of repair framework was recently spared the wrecker's ball. A local historian, the knowledgeable Roy Henry of Uxbridge, revealed to Cappy that the long single story shed had not only served the mill owners, but had ties to the town.

Uxbridge's first motorized, fully equipped Maxim Pumper fire truck was kept in the first bay of the structure when it was delivered in 1921. This was an arrangement that satisfied and benefited both the town and the mill owners. Not only is this an important piece of Uxbridge's history that should be preserved, Roy said, but he has a personal interest in the structure as well. A retired volunteer fireman himself, Roys dad, also a fireman, served on the engine along with Bill Albin Sr., and Capt. Bill Smith. In fact, it was the elder Mr. Henry that brought the engine to Uxbridge when it was purchased.

The Carriage House

Roy related how Bill Smith was the only member of the Uxbridge Fire Dept. to die in the line of duty. On September 3rd, 1935, as Roy Henry's father arrived, Bill was opening up the doors of the fire station. He dropped where he stood from a deadly heart attack. He was 45 years old. Roy, and Bill Martin - also an ex Uxbridge firefighter - told me that a group of citizens are planning to open a fire museum in the old bay, an idea that pleased Cappy. "We were real close to demolishing that building", Cappy told me. "It was only through the intervention of Roy Henry that it was saved. We have a new roof on the place now, so it should last."

Three Days of April,

ing the patriots' boldness, sacrifice and courage confirmed their destiny towards independence. April 19, 1861 Though the Declaration of Independence had long been written, freedom for only the white population had been assured. By the mid 19th century, Worcester County's own had been at the forefront of some major anti-abolition efforts. For years, Massachusetts orators had been rotten egged and disrespected for their strong anti-slavery words. Eli Thayer, the Liberty Farm and other Underground Railroad sites, Adin Ballou, Rev. Thomas W. Higginson and the Butman Riot underscored the majority anti-slavery sentiment which almost foretold of the first blood of the Civil War to Massachusetts' own. Massachusetts citizens had witnessed U.S. soldiers march escaped slave, Anthony Burns, through the streets

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continued from page 4 recognizing that its citizens had threatened the assassination of President elect Lincoln and certainly opposed abolitionist soldiers marching through its borders, Colonel Jones ordered his men to load their guns, but not to fire unless fired upon. Seven companies passed without 1861 Harpers Weekly First Blood interruption, but the final four companies faced insults and final- before anyone else had even entered ly gunfire erupted, killing one MA sol- the fray. R.I. and Massachusetts troops also commanded Norfolk while the dier. "Fire" commanded Colonel Jones to authorities in Albany were still debating the official steps to be taken long his militia as crossfire shot four more after April 19, 1861. of the Massachusetts regiment dead. Massachusetts patriots once again "The sons of Massachusetts lay dead in the streets of Baltimore, before led our country to fairness, justice and independence. a single regiment of New York and other northern states had crossed the border between the slave and free states. Massachusetts soldiers had seized a steamboat, reached Annapolis and opened a road to Washington
Information for this article comes from Worcester Historical Proceedings 1881.

black smoke. It would be days before the full impact of what had happened would be fully realized. Tenants would come up to them, some openly weeping, others looking dazed and searching for answers. Neither Cappy or Jack had any. "By late in the evening on Saturday," Cappy shared with me, "I couldn't stand to watch it any more, Bob, so I just went home." "Seventy eight fire departments responded to the call for mutual aid," Uxbridge Fire Chief Peter Ostroskey told me, "from as far as forty five miles away." It would be ten days until the final chapter in the disaster was complete, and then the massive cleanup would begin.

The Indomitable Cappy,

****************** So far, this story has dealt with the past through mid July 2007. And now for the future. Just knowing Cappy, one is sure that his future will be closely coupled with the Bernat Mill site. In fact, he revealed that Capron Corporation is already well along the way with planning a new business complex, to be built on the site. "We have several potential tenants who are close to signing with us and as soon as we have enough commitments, we will plan the new structure to the prospective tenants needs. We will also dedicate space for some of the town's needs, like a senior center and an early childhood learning space."

towards his harsh return to his owner. Feelings were strong and reaction to a muster called in Boston on April 15, 1861 rivaled that of April 19, 1775. The 6th Regiment marched to the State House for an Address by the Governor before heading off to the Boston and Albany station towards war. Upon marching through New York, one Massachusetts soldier was asked if there was anything that could be done for him. He hesitated a moment, held up his foot showing a boot with his toe sticking out. "How come you came here with such a boot as that, my friend?" asked the New Yorker. "When the order came for me to join my company, sir, I was ploughing in the same field my grandfather was ploughing when the British fired on the Massachusetts men at Lexington," replied the soldier. "He did not wait a moment and I did not, sir." On April 19, 1861 as the Massachusetts 6th reached Baltimore

continued from page 14

final years. If the indomitable Cappy has his way, like the mythical Phoenix fire bird, a new and vibrant Bernat will rise from the ashes, to continue the metamorphosis of the downtown area of Uxbridge and its contribution to the vitality of the Blackstone Valley. Questions/ Comments: grbob@charter.net Photos by Bob Haigis & Developed by Morin Studios of Milford, MA.

There are some structures that were not seriously damaged in July, continuing to produce revenue. With a smile and a parting remark, the invincible Cappy stated that: "in a few years, with the Grace of God, we plan to be back up and running with the original nearly half a million square feet of space - and maybe a little more." The people of Uxbridge and the Blackstone Valley will miss the Bernat Mill. It stood as a monument to progress for over a hundred and fifty years. Cappy Fournier and his "family" will never forget the success of its

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