Semi-Auto PPs FCG by prsxr

This design uses the original trigger for authenticity, and allows the original safety to work the way it was supposed to. The hammer and sear are US made. It now has a traditional sear/disconnector arrangement, with the disconnector as a spring loaded plunger inside the disconnector. It's tough fitting all the needed parts in the space available, but it works. I am offering this as PPS43. I believe it will also work for KP44, but will take more fitting on the builder's part to make sure it works. I will need the trigger from your parts kit so that it can be incorporated into the unit. Here's what's included: FCG box (unassembled, but with interlocking tabs. Easy TIG weld) Hammer blank Hammer spring (stock AR-15) Sear (fully machined) Disconnector spring material (grind to length) 3 5/16" x 3/4" pivot pins 3 3/32" spring pins (retains disconnector, and connects transfer bar) Trigger spring (hand wound) trigger plate (drill and tap for trigger pivot pin retaining set screw) What's not included: (See picture for comparison of blank and finished parts) Trigger-- Use your own, requires some slots dremeled in, the transfer bar pin hole, and short tube sections welded on each side. Disconnector-- -Made from 5/32 steel pin. Has a bevel on the end, and a recess for the retaining pin. THis can be made by dremel and file. transfer bar--- made form 1/4" square stock. has a 3/32 hole in each end. File in various places for clearance, drill the last hole on assembly to ensure proper trigger location. Hammer -- it's included but here's what you'll have to do to it: Machine the leg for width on both sides to accommodate the AR-15 hammer spring. Weld on tube stubs over the pivot pin (might be possible to omit this step), grind the catch face to allow clearance past the disconnector. Clean up striking face. None of this work is complicated, and with the exception of the welding, can be done with common tools.

Hmmm. looks like I was wrong on the disconnector plunger diameter. Not 5/32, looks like I made it out of .149" dia #24 drill rod. Here's the drawing of the plunger. Few of the dimensions are critical, and it's probably best to file to fit, especially the angle and projection of the nose. The undercut is just for the retaining pin.

You'll need to write the dimensions down. But really, try to make a part that works, not necessarily the dimensions shown. Thats what was so time consuming for me to make these--- small differences in parts, esp. the trigger itself made it necessary to carefully file the hammer and disconnector plunger until it works properly. Each one was slightly different. I don't think its necessary to heat treat them. It's 4130, so you can give it a shot if you want. Probably only of benefit on the hammer. I suppose the disconnector, too, but probably easier just to make a couple extras and replace if they wear out. For the hammer, the sides of the leg need to be ground down to fit the AR-15 hammer spring. If you wish (it will make assembly much easier), weld a short length of tube (5/16 OD should work) on either side of the bottom hole, and ream the hole to 5/32 for the hammer pin. The other work needed on the hammer is modification of the catches on the upper surface. The lower catch (which engages the sear itself) needs to have half of its width ground off so that it will clear the disconnector plunger. You may also need to re-profile this surface so that the disconnector doesnt drag when the hammer is released. Obviously do this carefully, and after the assembly is complete. The hammer is made of 4130, and can be heat treated, but I have cracked some doing this, and dont recommend it anymore. A final idea for the hammer is to drill and tap the side of the leg for a set screw that will retain the hammer pivot pin (otherwise youll need lots of loctite on the pin holes in the box). If its not obvious, grind the forward face flat to clean up the surface. The hammers were water-jet cut in pairs face-to face, and theres some metal left where I cut them apart. The trigger also requires some modifications. The first is to drill out the hole to 5/32for the pivot pin, then you can weld tube stubs over the holes to retain the trigger spring (just as with the hammer, this will make assembly easier, and the trigger more durable). While youre welding the tubes on, weld the included small rectangular plate across the top of the trigger so that the hole in the plate is centered across the pivot pin. Then you can (as with the hammer) drill and tap for a set screw to retain the pin. Put a cutting wheel on your dremel tool, and cut a slot on each side of the trigger at the tapered part to accommodate the trigger spring. The trigger spring cant rise above the level of the trigger or the bolt may hit it and cause trigger slap. My slots are the width of the taper, and about 5/32 deep. Grind off the lower section of the back of the trigger ( the part with the hole for the takedown latch pin & spring) until its flush with the rest of the trigger. Height of the back of the trigger should be about 0.35. Finally and most importantly, a hole needs to be drilled for the transfer bar. This should be 3/32 for a roll pin, and it is located below the pivot pin in the narrow section of the trigger. I have tried to center the hole in the narrow section. The exact placement isnt all that critical since you will drill the transfer bar to match, but it is *very* important that this hole be square through the trigger. If not, the transfer bar will not point straight ahead toward the sear, and it will bind. Make sure your drill press is square, use a sharp drill bit, and go slowly. The trigger will deform if you use too much force. Transfer bar: Make this out of bar stock. Drill a 3/32 hole in one end for the sear pin, then carefully grind a radius around the hole so that it will fit within the sear with the holes matching. Dont drill a hole in the other end yet. Measure the length needed to reach back to the trigger hole (the 3/32 one) and leave some extra. Test fit the assembly, and grind away any material so that theres no interference with the back of the sear or anything else. Leave the end that goes into the trigger square for now. Since there is variation in the location of the 3/32 hole in the trigger, the transfer bar needs to be drilled to match. I discovered after I designed the box that I should have left a window to allow access to this holeso youll want to drill or grind an access hole just below the trigger pivot pin. Once you have everything assembled, and verify proper travel of the components, set the trigger in the rest position, the sear fully down and against its stop pin, and carefully mark the location of the hole in the transfer bar through the access window. Then you can disassemble and drill the hole. The trigger metal is thin and soft, and will elongate if you try to drill it without disassembly.

Hopefully this (along with all the other pictures) will allow you to put this kit together without that much difficulty.