Roop Kund trek

My love affair with the Himalayas continued and I kept visiting the mountains every year Valley of Flowers, Hemkund, Gangotri, Dodital, Mani Mahesh, Sangla Valley, Badrinath and Roop Kund. Ashok and I had started trekking in our late fifties and we soon realised that it is a very tough activity; year after year I found it more and more difficult with the result that after every trek I would decide to give it up. But the call of the Himalayas is so great that I would join the trekking group again next year. When our group decided to go to Roop Kund I was sure I wouldnt be able to complete the trek and so had decided not to go along. But our group members encouraged me to change my mind. Having decided on the location we studied the map to fix our route. It was like this: from Rishikesh we were to proceed to Lohajung, the starting point of our trek. From there we would cover a distance of 27km one way to Roop Kund via Wan, Bedni and Baguabasa. The height gained would be 8,500ft. The total distance to and fro would be covered in six days. As we proceeded on the trek our programme had to be altered many times because of unforeseen circumstances. We started our tour as per schedule. At Mumbai Central we were greeted by a refreshing drizzle which stayed with us for the next three days. After reaching Delhi we hired two jeeps for the next lap of our journey that would take us to Rishikesh. On the way we stopped at Sheetal Grand for lunch. A lot of time had elapsed after the Rajdhani (train) breakfast of soft croissants but there was still time for our orders to arrive, so we decided to while away the time by taking some photographs. From there we reached Hardwar where we were reminded of the Ganga Puja that we had attended during our last trek. I could hear chants of Om jaya Gange mata. We would have loved to attend the aarti but it was already dusk and we had to reach Rishikesh before nightfall, so we

skipped it this time. I felt a little sad about that. At Rishikesh we arrived at the GMVN (Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam) hotel where we were greeted by a beautifully manicured garden. It immediately refreshed us. The moment we settled in, our leader started giving us instructions for t he trek. They werent difficult to follow and soon a sporting mood prevailed. It was there that we found out that our organiser had misunderstood our programme and that, as a result, we would have to start our trek a day later. By consensus we decided to use the extra day for river rafting and so turned up at the riverbank the next day. Everybody was thrilled at the decision but the excitement was edged with a slight fear. What if the raft overturned? The words of our organiser You do not die quickly if you wear a lifejacket,were hardly reassuring. Oh my God! Did that mean it would be a lingering process? Since it is possible to get drenched completely when a big wave approaches, we were asked to keep our cameras and watches in a dry bag. Then how would we take pictures? In the end we decided we would only take photos before and after the rafting. Once in the raft we passed Ram Jhula and Laxman Jhula, dashed through the rapids, floated over the big waves and enjoyed the whole experience thoroughly. All along we were moving the oars forward and backward as per the instructions of the guide (and as if to the tune of Row, row, row your boat). The next day we started for Lohajung after tea and breakfast. The drizzle that had followed us from Mumbai was still there but it failed to wash away the enthusiasm of our members. Ashok fretted over not being able to capture this emotion while standing in the rain, but I had just the right solution. What was I there for? So I held an umbrella over him while he shot pictures to capture the real spirit of our group. On the way to Dev Prayag our vehicle took a halt and we had snacks at Monal Hotel. Everybody liked the rustic ambience of the hotel on the banks of the Ganges. The Ganges accompanied us all the way to Dev Prayag. Here we had a photo session with the Bhagirathi (from this point upwards the name Ganges changes to Bhagirathi) as we would be going our separate ways from this point, our new companion being the Alaknanda. Unstoppable rain, a drab roadeverybody had become a little bored. So the driver decided to make our journey a little more interesting. He dashed our vehicle against one that was trying to overtake us which meant that we had to wait at a nearby dhaba until the drivers arrived at a settlement. This also meant that at Rudra Prayag, which was to be our regular stop, we had just enough time to take pictures of the confluence of the Mandakini and Alaknanda. From Karna Prayag we had to follow River Pindar up to Lohajung. By now it had started to grow dark. The road ahead was landslide prone, but with a little daring we decided to continue our journey. It was difficult to move forward, so we started reciting Ram Raksha. The driver too had put on an audio cassette of Ganga Avataran. We somehow reached Dewal, a few kilometres before Lohajung, our scheduled stop. By now it had become totally dark and there were no lights, making it compulsory that we halt here. The next day we started after tea. Since some took tea without sugar, some liked it sweet and others with only a little sugar in theirs, this morning routine always elicited friendly banter and leg-pulling throughout our journey. At night there had been a landslide, so a test vehicle was sent ahead to see whether the road was unblocked. Even though we got the go-ahead, we still had to face many roadblocks before we reached Lohajung. Here, we were welcomed by much-needed sunlight. Not only were we happy but even the flowers and butterflies seemed to sway with joy at the weather.

From Lohajung, Wan is at a distance of 13km and practically reachable by jeep. But since no one had done practice treks this year, we decided to walk it up. This would also help acclimatise us with the surrounding area and climate. Along the way we saw many young ladies carrying haystacks and herding cattle up the hill. They walked long distances comfortably and easily combated climbs that we found difficult. The hill children looked innocent and wore smart clothes to go to school. They welcomed us with a namaste and thanked us for the chocolates they got in return. There were many streams along the way, some swollen because of the constant rain of two consecutive days. In some places they gushed down big boulders with incredible force. Ashok was constantly taking pictures of these streams and it was but natural that we would soak up some of their vigour. It would have been impossible to cross them if the wooden bridges (if you can call them that) had not been there. Also accompanying us were deodars, chirs, horse chestnuts laden with fruits and, of course, my favourite, rhododendrons. At Wan, to get acclimatised with the surroundings, we went to the nearby hill in the evening where, hidden among the deodars, oaks and birches, was a temple of Latoo Devi. The next day having said goodbye to Wan, we proceeded to Bedni Bugyal, 12km away. Bugyal is Garhwali for meadow. The road, though not very easy, was not tiring either because of the picturesque views it had to offer. It was our plan to start the trek at seven in the morning and reach our designated lunch point at around ten, but the faster ones among us reached that point quite early and so, instead of stopping there, they proceeded ahead. At this point the tree line ended and we entered the colourful world of flowers. Our organiser Nautiyal had planned to break for lunch at lunch point and then reach Bedni by 2-2.30pm. In the Himalayas it is necessary to complete your trek by 2.30pm after which the climate changes dramatically and it starts snowing. But our trekkers, including some ladies, proved him wrong, reaching Bedni well before the scheduled time. There our leader engaged us in erecting tents and before we knew it, beautiful tents stood proudly on the meadow. From Bedni we could see Nanda Ghunti, Trishul and Badrinath peaks. The grass was soft and pleasing to the eyes and walking barefoot on it was a rare pleasure. In the evening we decided to explore the surrounding areas in the fast-fading light and got lost in the play of light and shade over the mountain ranges. There is a neat little temple nearby, nothing fancy, just one stone on top of another. Though we did not get the name of the deity we did come across a Bengali group worshipping it. The sound of the bell added to the pious environment of the temple. Nearby there was a pond called Bedni Kund. There we sat, for a long time, appreciating the reflection of the clouds as they descended down the mountains as if to see themselves in the mirror of the lake. Soon it was sunset time and the sun cast orange hues on the mountains, as if setting them on fire. This fire did not last long. Soon the embers became cooler and then chillingly cold. To beat the cold we hit upon a novel idea of playing inter-tent antakshari.

Bedni lake The second day at Bedni was reserved to enable us to get acquainted with the climate. Our plan was to go to Ali Bugyal situated close to Bedni. The trek required only half a day, so we got up late and enjoyed morning tea in beautiful sunlight. The next lap after Bedni was quite difficult and required practice, so we thought of having a good warm-up session. Then we proceeded towards Ali Bugyal. As always I was the last one to reach. Trekking in the Himalayas is a group activity. The team has to work together and in coordination with each other. After reaching our destination we saw innumerable sheep grazing in the area. Their numbers are growing, dangerously so, and we found evidence of that practically everywhere in the Himalayas. We also encountered some Garhwali women and it was a wonder to see the ladies in our group mingling with them. On our way back we met a young Garhwali couple and their newborn, a lamb, a bundle of soft cotton that immediately melted everybodys heart. We hit the road to Baguabasa up and early the next day. This stretch was 9km long and difficult but with some eye-catching views. At this point the mountains are all covered with golden grass, the kind New Zealanders call Barbie doll hair. The road was serpentine and with many ascents and descents, the kind that lifts or droops your spirits. The road, though, passed through a colourful array of flowers, almost as if somebody had played Holi there. Big, red leaves especially caught our attention. They find their way from underneath rocks and sway with the wind and are used by the locals to make chutney. It is indeed a pleasure to see such a beautifully painted canvass, its colour scheme of the kind that only the almighty can visualise. After climbing to a considerable height we arrived at a plateau. Like in Bedni, here too there was a temple of piled up stones. I bowed my head in front of this Kelva Ganesh and prayed for help in the face of difficulties that I may have to face while experiencing the magic of the Himalayas. A slight drizzle started, mist began spreading its cover and in a minute the view became invisible. It was difficult to gauge if we were going in the right direction. Soon it cleared a little (and so did our doubts) and we lay our eyes on a cluster of tents hidden behind some stones. As

we walked towards them, a faint sweet fragrance assailed us and as we wondered where it was coming from, we saw the kamals. Fenkamal is like a swab of cotton, neelkamal is blue, himakamal is like snowflakes and brahmakamal is green and resembles a cauliflower. The evening at Baguabasa was mostly engulfed in mist. Here we had to share a single tent amongst four people, which may be why we spent most of the time outdoors. Dr Rajput and some others were busy collecting waghnakhi, an Ayurvedic herbal medicine. But by late evening, it had grown colder and though we were provided with feather coats, we were forced to get into our tents early. Hot dal chawal topped with a hot cup of Milo sent us to sleep. It is an ordeal coming out of the tent; you cannot come out without your shoes but you cannot get to your shoes without coming out. The rocks outside are usually covered with a thin layer of ice and if you are not careful, you can slip on them. Out of habit I had to come out of the tent at least once every night. An Unforgettable Incident: Heavenly Trishul peaks On one such occasion, when I got up to go out, little did I know what a memorable night it would turn out to be! It was Purnima, a day after Anant Chaturdashi, and a full moon loomed over the sky. On seeing the silvery surroundings I became so excited as I came out of the tent that I slipped over the thin ice and fell down. With not a soul in sight I wanted to shout for help but my eyes fell on the Trishul peaks and I was overwhelmed. I forgot that I had fallen and got lost completely in the beautiful sight. The snow-white peaks sparkled in the moonlight like diamonds set in platinum. Wow, it was just unforgettable. The scene was so hypnotic that I sat there looking at the peaks for a long time. I believe I am one of the very few lucky ones who are treated to such heavenly sights. The day to go to Roop Kund finally dawned. Since it is situated at a higher altitude, it starts raining there any time after ten. That meant we had to complete our trek before that. As I was not too sure of completing the trek in the given time, I decided to go as far as I could ti ll 10 oclock and then, without feeling defeated, turn back. Ashok promised to stay with me as always even if it meant that he too would not be able to see Roop Kund. So I had no worries about being left alone. With great daring we started at six, taking the road formed by loose boulders. Turning back from the road, we could see clouds spread out in the valley below, a view we generally get to see from a plane. It felt as if we too were floating over the clouds. The Badrinath mountain range seemed to be craning its just-turned-golden head above the clouds. Some members of our group were quite ahead of me, but I decided to go on like a true trekker. After a while the Trishul peaks, completely covered with snow, made their breathtaking appearance. The mysterious lake of Beauty or Roop Kund lay just below these peaks. But before that came the most testing ascent of the trek. This last leg was very steep and covered with wet, loose sand. Every time you put your leg into it, it would slide treacherously, requiring that you anchor each step firmly. I found the going difficult. Twice or thrice I slipped

and sat down. It was 9.30am. The time had come. I would have to turn back. Ashok too did not have the confidence required to take me the rest of the way. With great reluctance we decided to go back. But if you really want something to happen, it does and its called a miracle. Nautiyal, our trek organiser, who had already reached the top, saw us turning back and immediately came down to help us. The view that you are going to witness ahead you will never be able to forget, so saying he held both my hands and guided me up. Ashok followed. And within half an hour, we had reached the top- Roop Kund. The other members who had reached there earlier were happy to see us and welcomed us with claps. Between hugs, three cheers and handshakes we celebrated our victory. I just could not stop the flow of tears. From the place where we were standing we could see the Trishul peaks and the pond near the foothills. To keep its heavenly beauty untouched, Roop Kund, I believe, is permanently covered with snow. Indeed, the scene cannot be described in words; such is its unforgettable divine beauty; its heaven at 16,500ft. Two of our guides carried flags atop the frozen lake. After capturing the image in our minds and cameras to our hearts content, we played in the snow and made ice golas. There is an interesting legend about Roop Kund. It is said that Goddess Nanda Devi, wellbedecked with gold ornaments, was on her way to meet her in-laws after her wedding. As she grew tired, she stopped here to rest. She was thirsty, so her escort and Lord, Shri Shankar hurled his trishul to form the lake. On seeing her reflection in the lake Nanda Devi became conscious of her beauty, hence the name Roop Kund. By the lake there is a small temple and it is customary to offer a small trishul to the deity there. We had carried a one-inch-long silver trishul with us and this we offered to the deity. We also offered ladoos as prasad. Near the temple we saw some bones kept as a memorial. They were discovered in 1954 in the surroundings of the lake though no one knows how they came here. That is why Roop Kund is also called the mystery lake. According to some explorers and scientists who have done research on the topic, about 500-600 years ago, a king set off on a pilgrimage to Nanda Devi with his entourage to offer his thanks on getting a son. Unknowingly, he defiled the sanctity of the place and was met with a sudden snowstorm that killed all the pilgrims. Practically all the skulls found here have fractures. By 10.30am, sticking to our schedule, we started making our way downwards and soon reached Baguabasa. Here, we packed our luggage, had lunch and continued onwards to Bedni. It was past three and in keeping with the Himalayan climate, it began to rain. By the time we reached Bedni we were completely drenched. Somehow we ladies got accommodation in a stable while the men had to stay in tents. It was already raining heavily and the thick clouds behind the tents meant that there would be more non-stop rain. At night, as expected, there was something like a cloudburst. Rain seeped into the stable from all possible cracks. In addition, there was a thunderstorm. Some ladies got so frightened that they started shouting out to the men and sending battery signals in the direction of the tents. But they were all asleep. This certainly was not a thing to be taken lightly as Nature in the Himalayas can take on a fierce aspect. The group which followed us on the next day could not reach Roop Kund at all because of snowfall whereas two members of a subsequent group went missing, as we were to learn later.

The next day too, there was no sign of rain stopping and we had to make our way to Wan in the downpour. From here there is a jeep road just two to three kilometres ahead. Happily we climbed a jeep to go to Nand Prayag but encountered a road blocked by a fallen tree and could only make it up to Lohajung. At Lohajung as we waited for another jeep we ordered coffee and were served a new drink of tea mixed with coffee powder that we called chafee. By the time we reached Dewal from Lohajung night had fallen and, yet again, we were forced to make an unscheduled stop at Dewal. The next day we were getting ready to go to Rishikesh when the organiser announced, Your trek isnt over yet. You will have to walk four to five more kilometres carrying your own luggage. And thats exactly what happened. Whenever we hit a roadblock we had to get down from the jeep, cross the debris and walk till we reached another jeep. At least the road, going along Pindar River, was good. One such landslide necessitated that we climb down to the river basin and then climb up. Despite these adverse conditions, the mood was playful. In two or three places the road had sunk deep and water rushed over it with great force. On this DewalRishikesh road we had to change jeeps six times in all. Thereafter we enjoyed the jeep ride up to Rishikesh. After reaching Rishikesh we all called home with contentment in our voices. I called up Runa who said, Mummy, you have done it. Congrats, I am proud of you. On hearing these words I could not control my tears. I had been dead sure I wouldnt be able to reach Roo p Kund at 16,500ft. But because of the cooperation of my group members I was able to complete the arduous trek. I do not wish to think of future treks now. I may go or I may not. But I will not feel bad even if I am unable to go because this trek to Roop Kund will always be etched in my mind and will always continue to inspire me. Paulo Coelho in his book The Alchemist tells you to follow your dreams and says: And, when you want something, all the universe conspires in helping you to achieve it. ***