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64
Viscont HT - the future of high performance
viscose flaments and their textile applications
Bernhard Mller*, Martin Gebert-Germ and Axel Russler
Glanzstoff Industries, Herzogenburger Strasse 69, A-3100 St. Plten, Austria
E-mail: mueller@glanzstoff.com
Abstract
The viscose process is more than 100 years old. Nonetheless the potential of cellulose based fbers for technical
and textile applications is still not fully utilized. This publication is going to present recent developments towards
high tenacity flaments for textile applications with a breaking force above 40cN/tex. In addition the basic
features of this new product family by Glanzstoff Industries will be presented. Special focus will be paid to the
production parameters and features of the permanent fame retardant multi-flament Viscont
FR.
Introduction
The demand for man-made-fbers is steadily growing.
Looking at the yearly production volume of synthetic
flaments between 1992 and 2009 a compound annual
growth rate (CAGR) of 7.4% was seen [1]. Cotton had
in the same period a CAGR of only 1.2% with a sig-
nifcant decrease from 2007 onwards. Viscose as the
'oldest man-made-fber has seen a steady increasing
demand for staple fbers, especially in the frst decade
of the new millennium. The share of viscose staple
fbers of the total fber production was 4.5% in 2009.
It is expected that the demand for cellulose based f-
bers with their unique properties will increase, since
cotton production cannot keep up with the average
fber-CAGR of approximately 4.5% until 2030. The
resulting gap is known as the 'cotton gap.
Figure 1. Market overview fbers.
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65
In contrary to viscose stable fbers, the viscose fla-
ment production and market share has signifcantly
decreased over the last 20 years. This might be due
to changing customer habits on the one hand or a
lack of innovations on the other. While the increa-
sing awareness of limited resources has sped up the
development of multi-functional man-made-fbers
produced from regenerative sources in general es-
pecially staple fbers, hardly any improvement has
been reported for textile viscose multi-flaments
[2]. One major exception is the introduction of high
speed continuous spinning technologies. Therefore
the overview by Ninow and Heidenreich regarding
properties of viscose flaments, although published
in 1990 is still valid to our time [3]. One of their pre-
dictions was that viscose flaments are not able to
compete with the tenacity and dimensional stability
of synthetic fbers.
In this paper it will be demonstrated, that it is possible to
produce multi-flament yarns for textile purposes with
a higher dry tenacity than comparable polyester-yarns
while keeping the full range of properties viscose is well
known for. In addition a further development, a perma-
nent fame retardant multi-flament yarn with the trade
name Viscont
FR
2
will be discussed in more detail.
History of Viscont
Viscont
comfort in protection.
Viscont
- General features
The features of Viscont
are as follows:
! high-tenacity rayon multi-flament
! 'viscose like wearing comfort
! gentle to the skin
! breathable
! available from yarn count 67 to 2440
! biodegradable
! good to excellent dying properties
High-tenacity rayon multihlament
Viscont
HT
The frst commercially available product produced
with the new spinning process is
Viscont
HT is almost twice as
high. While the guaranteed minimum tenacity cond.
is 36 cN/tex, the average tenacity cond. is 40 to 42
cN/tex thereby surpassing even polyester yarns (see
Figure 2).
Next to the breaking force in conditioned state, the wet
tenacity is of special interest. In Figure 2 the values for
various materials are compared. In general this has been
a shortcoming of viscose based fbers, but even for the f-
nest yarn count - Viscont
HT
200 dtex f110 is on average above 25cN/tex. This value
is still lower than comparable polyester flaments of more
than 30cN/tex, but by far higher than any viscose fla-
ment commercially available for textile applications.
Despite the high tenacity the water retention accor-
ding to DIN 53814:1974 is still 'viscose like high.
For example the water-retention for Viscont
HT 167
dtex f92 is 38.7, while a standard viscose flament
with comparable yarn count of 167 dtex f76 has 54.9.
The slightly decreased ability to retain water has no
negative impact on the wearing comfort. In contrary
this feature has been general appreciated by textile de-
velopers (see Figure 3).
Figure 5. Cross section of standard textile viscose produ-
ced by Glanzstoff Austria.
Figure 4. Cross section of Viscont
HT produced by
Glanzstoff Bohemia s.r.o.
Figure 6. Comparison of abrasion according to Martindale
between Viscont
HT. In comparison with a standard textile rayon yarn,
such as 167 dtex f76 produced in Glanzstoff Austria
the abrasion measured according to Martindale ISO
12947/2:1999 is 4 times higher. This quadruplication
seems to be a consequence of the augmented crystalli-
ne regions obtained by the Viscont
spinning process.
Figure 7. Comparison of tenacity between Viscont
FR.
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68
Permanent ame retardant rayon
multihlament Viscont
FR
The need for fame retardant fabrics has been steadily in-
creasing over the last years. Especially permanent fame
retardant yarns are of high interest. There are a number
of well-established synthetic fber products available, but
so far a permanent fame retardant multi-flament based
on cellulose using non halogen, organic fame retardant
substances was not commercially available.
The Production Process
The production of permanent fame retardant rayon
staple fbers is well-known and has been described in
literature before [4]. While some challenges in pro-
duction of staple fbers and flaments are similar, the
main difference results from the 'endless nature of
flament. Every deviation in the production parame-
ters such as viscosity of the spinning viscose, zinc
content in the spinning bath, washing water and tem-
Figure 9. Pilling determined for knitted fabric with 100% Viscont
FR and viscose FR staple fber.
Figure 10. Comparison between different fabrics made of of Viscont
FR on large
scale is a very precise regulation of the spinning pa-
rameters to ensure minimum color differences on the
one hand and a very low number of breakages on the
other. To obtain the permanent fame retardant pro-
perties it is necessary to homogeneously incorporate
up to 22 w/w% of the phosphor based compound in
the viscose matrix. This high amount of the particles
'disrupt the highly ordered cellulose matrix thereby
decreasing the tenacity by approximately 20% to 30%
compared to a non-fame retardant flament.
Another key is a newly developed color dosing device
enabling the precise addition of fame retardant dis-
persion into the viscose stream before spinning. The
medium size of the particles in the dispersion has to
be below 1 m. Crucial for the homogeneous distri-
bution are the facilitated dispergators, otherwise the
spinning process can be and is disturbed by reagglo-
meration.
The spinning process of Viscont
FR is a continuous
one. After the acidic coagulation bath the yarn is stret-
ched in a second bath, before it is washed, dried and
wound up. The yarn is regularly checked with the me-
thyl orange to make sure that the yarn is free of any
acidic contamination. In addition a strict separation
between the operators of the acidic 'wet and neutral
'dry side is executed. It takes less than 3 minutes
from the spinneret to the fnal, untwisted yarn. Depen-
ding on the yarn count the spinning speed of Viscont
FR varies but is in general slower than for Viscont
HT.
Tenacity
The tenacity conditioned of the untwisted yarn is in a
range of 26 to 34 cN/tex. While this is lower than the
tenacity of Viscont
FR is
still more than 20% higher. This offers new possibili-
ties to knitters and weavers to produce lighter fabrics,
since the mechanical strength of the yarn is higher.
The tenacity of fame retardant polyester yarn is su-
perior to Viscont
FR is not
a thermoplastic it does not melt under thermal stress
like polyester does. Thinking of applications like
liners this is a big advantage over fabrics made of po-
lyester. In addition rayon has a much better moisture
uptake and wearing comfort than polyester.
Figure 11. Comparison of the hot water shrinkage between standard textile viscose and Viscont FR over 50 washing
cycles.
LENZINGER BERICHTE 90 (2012) 64 - 71
70
Numerous PPE-applications use Nomex
by Du-
Pont
flament 200
dtex f76 the breaking force conditioned of Viscont
FR 167 dtex f92 is on the same level. A summary of
the results is given in Figure 7.
Fluffs
A critical parameter for textile applications of fla-
ments is the number of fuffs/breakages per kg yarn.
This was one of the biggest challenges in the deve-
lopment of Viscont
FR flament
two fabrics were tested. Fabric 1 was knitted with
100% Viscont
HT filament
give textile developers a new opportunity to redu-
ce weight, thanks to their high tenacity properties.
To demonstrate the potential a few fabrics with
Viscont
FR flament behaves
differently than ordinary textile viscose flaments. While
textile viscose keeps on shrinking with every wash cycle,
Viscont
FR as pre-shrunk
yarn primarily for weaving applications.
Conclusions
Viscont
HT
with its conditioned tenacity above 40 cN/tex and the
permanent fame retardant Viscont
FR flament. Vis-
cont
can be plied
or covered with other fbers or yarn at a yarn or fab-
ric level. Yarn sizes of Viscont
.
References
[1] CIRFS
[2] Nywlt, M. Lenzinger Berichte 2002, 81, 71-75.
[3] Ninow, H; Heidenreich, I. Lenzinger Berichte
1990, 70, 11-16.
[4] Krssig, H. Lenzinger Berichte 1976, 40, 125-
134; Gotschey, F. Lenzinger Berichte 1977, 43, 131-
139; Wolf, R. Ind. Eng. Chem. Prod. Res. Dev. 1981,
20, 413-420.
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