PRESENTATION ON

MAJOR CHARACTERISTICS OF KNITTED AND WOVEN FABRICS IN RELATION TO THEIR END USES & APPLICATIONS

Prepared by: Shivani Goyal MFTech in Apparel Production- I

INTRODUCTION
Fabric is the basic raw material of clothing industry. Quality of fabric influences not the quality of garment. In garment manufacturing a three dimensional garment is prepared from two dimensional fabric. The fabric specifications for different end use requirements are different and the selection of an appropriate fabric is one of the most difficult jobs for clothing manufacturer. Specifications of fabrics used in apparel manufacturing can be broadly classified into two groups: 1. Primary characteristics 2. Secondary characteristics Primary characteristics are considered as a static physical dimension, whereas secondary characteristics are the reaction of the fabric when a force is imposed on it. The secondary characteristics are physical or chemical changes in the fabric resulting from application of outside forces. The apparel manufacturer is primarily interested in secondary characteristics. Although secondary characteristics are closely related to the primary characteristics, a primary characteristic is of no interest to the apparel manufacturer unless it controls a secondary characteristic or the cost of the fabric. Fabric characteristics can be considered from the point of view of the consumer, apparel and fabric manufacturers. The consumer is mainly interested in appearance, comfort and wearability of the fabric.

MAJOR CHARACTERISTICS OF FABRICS

Physical characteristics are the dynamic physical parameters of a fabric. They are physical changes in the fabric that result from applying outside forces on the fabric. Most of the durability and utility values of fabric are characteristics and not properties. Basically, the apparel producer is interested in the characteristics of a fabric. There are four major categories of fabric manufacture. They are: 1. 2. 3. 4. Style characteristics Utility characteristics Durability characteristics Product production working characteristics

1. STYLE CHARACTERISTICS
Style characteristics are those changes which affect the motional appeal the fabric imparts to the consumer. This is exemplified when a consumer handles a fabric and refers to the fabric with adjectives such as stiff, soft, hard, etc. All types of physical changes in the fabric structure that affect style values have been included in the area of style characteristics. The classification of these characteristic categories and subcategories is based on the denominator for sense of style response. The three senses used for style response are visual, tactile, and hand (kinaesthetic). This is true for all kinds of apparel and for allied products such as curtains, drapes, slip covers, luggage, handbags, automobiles seats, seat covers, bedspreads, and linens. In some items, style is the most important parameter and in others, durability is the most important factor. It is quite common for people to discard various articles from their wardrobe because these items have lost their emotional appeal and not because these items no longer possess sufficient durability or utility. a) Hand characteristics Hand characteristics are the changes of the fabric plane with hand manipulations which exert tensile, compression, moulding, or supporting forces on the fabric. The following characteristics are dimensions of fabric hand:

1. thickness compressibility 2. plane compressibility 3. elongation 4. elasticity 5. torsion 6. malleability 7. flexibility b) Tactile characteristics Tactile characteristics refer to the changes in the surface contour that result from a mechanical force exerted on or against the surface structure. These changes apply to the surface contour aspects of the fabric surface and not the fabric plane. Designers specify tactile characteristics with terms such as soft, coarse, rough, hard, smooth, sticky, oily, and greasy. c) Visual characteristics Visual characteristics are the changes in colour values when either the fabric or light is moved. This characteristic presents some of the most difficult problems in colour quality control in the apparel industry. End-to-end shading, side-to-side shading and mark-off are three other colour quality problems in fabrics which create havoc in apparel manufacturing. Visual characteristics vary with the drape plane and the support grain. When two pieces of the same colour fabric are compared to see if they match in all respects, the three parameters of colour must be measured hue, value, intensity. Hue refers to spectrum, such as red, yellow, blue (the three primary colours), or secondary. Value refers to the lightness or darkness of the colour its shade. Intensity refers to its reflection its glossiness, dullness, or brilliance.

2. UTILITY CHARACTERISTICS
Utility characteristics are the changes in the fit, comfort, and wearing functions of the garment when the fabric engages a mechanical, thermal, electrical, or chemical force during the utilization of the garment.

The two major types of utility characteristics are transmission and transformation. A transmission characteristic transmits mass or energy through the fabric. A transformation characteristic changes a physical property of the fabric. The property dimension(s) is altered without destroying the fabric. Changes which disintegrate the fabric are durability characteristics. The utility characteristics are: 1. Transmission characteristics a) air permeability b) heat transmission c) light permeability d) moisture transmission e) radioactivity transmission f) water permeability Air permeability is the rate at which air can pass through a given area of fabric when the air is impacted with air at a given pressure. Thermal conductivity is the rate at which heat passes through a given area of fabric. A low thermal conductivity is desirable for cold weather clothing in order to retain a maximum of body heat. Low thermal conductivity is sought, also, for clothing designed to keep outside heat from reaching the body. High thermal conductivity is desirable for clothing designed to transmit body heat to the atmosphere. Light permeability is the amount of illumination that passes through a given area of fabric. For most fashion purposes, light permeability is measured subjectively because the average designer is mainly interested in the general transparent, translucent, or opaque value of the fabric. Moisture transmission is the rate with which moisture travels throughout the fabric when water contacts the fabric without an impact force, gravity or otherwise. This is a measure of the fabrics ability to diffuse moisture. High moisture transmission is desirable for fabrics which must carry off body perspiration. Water permeability is the rate with which water seeps through fabric when water contacts the fabric with angular impact force. Radioactivity transmission is the degree with which radioactive energy, such as X-ray and gamma rays, can penetrate fabrics.

2. Transformation characteristics a) colour fastness b) Crease resistance c) Dimensional stability d) Moisture absorption e) Shrinkage f) Pilling g) Moisture retention h) Crock resistance Colour fastness is the ability of a fabric to retain its original value under given utilization conditions. This includes tests for colour changes due to various methods of laundering, dry cleaning, as well as changes due to water, heat, light, perspiration, crocking and weather environments. Crock resistance is a fabrics ability to withstand transferring its colour to contacting fabrics. Crease resistance has two parameters. One is measured by the sum of the conditions needed to attain a required crease sharpness and duration. The second is the amount of crease loss due to the inherent resilience of the fabric. Dimensional stability is the capacity with which fabric can resist changes in physical dimensions. This is often manifested by wrinkles. Shrinkage is the degree to which fabric size decreases in length, width, and depth. Pilling is the degree with which the fabric gathers and retains gases, liquids, or solids in a manner which changes the original colour, odour, or weight of the fabric. Moisture retention is the rate with which a fabric dries.

3. DURABILITY CHARACTERISTIC
Durability characteristics are the capabilities of a fabric to maintain the style and utility characteristics during wear. Durability in a fabric measures the limit of function. It is the measure of stress which destroys the fabric or the fabrics ability to repeat a desired style or utility characteristics. The durability characteristics are:

1. abrasive strength 2. bursting strength 3. corrosive strength 4. dry cleaning durability 5. fire resistance 6. launderability 7. moth resistance 8. radiation absorption 9. tearing strength 10. tensile strength 11. yarn severance Abrasive strength is the measure of rubbing action necessary to disintegrate the fabric. Bursting strength is the measure of vertical pressure, against a fabric area secured in space, necessary to rupture the fabric. This type of test is mainly used for knitted fabrics. Corrosive strength is the measure of chemical action, acid or alkaline, necessary to disintegrate a fabric. This is important measure of work clothing used in environments that have large probabilities of chemical of chemical vapours and splashing chemicals. It is also an important characteristic for fashion apparel used for sports. Dry cleaning durability is the measure of dry cleaning performance which disintegrates the fabric. Dry cleaning action is an integration of mechanical, thermal and chemical action which varies with the amount and type of cleaning forces used. Fire resistance has two parameters, the ignition point and the rate with which the fabric burns. Launderability is the measure of washings which disintegrates the fabric. The laundering limit varies with the integration of mechanical, thermal and chemical forces. Moth resistance is the extent to which a fabric is disintegrated by moths and larvae. Radiation absorption strength is the rate with which radiation energy either disintegrates a fabric or destroys utility characteristics. Example: a bathing trunk was made from a fabric which contained rubber yarns which gave high elasticity of the fabric. When white and one of the light pastel shades

of the fabric were exposed to a given amount of sunlight, the rubber lost its elasticity. The dark shades, such as black and navy did not lose elasticity when exposed to the same amount of sunlight. Tearing strength is the measure of torque necessary to part the yarns perpendicular to the torque vector plane. Tensile strength is the measure of a straight line pull, parallel to the fabric plane, that is needed to part the yarns receiving the pull stress.

4. PRODUCT PRODUCTION WORKING CHARACTERISTICS

Product production working characteristics are those characteristics which affect the quality of production with respect to quality values and the cost of the production method. The various working characteristics of a fabric are: 1. coefficient of friction( cutting, sewing, pressing, and packaging) 2. Sewed seam strength 3. Sewed seam slippage( yarn slippage) 4. Sewing distortions 5. Yarn severage 6. Bondability strength (fused, cemented and heat-sealed seams) 7. die moldability 8. pressing moldability Coefficient of friction is important for evaluating a fabrics stability during spreading, cutting, pressing, and packaging operations. Bondability refers to how strong fused, cemented or heat-sealed seams are, and the processing factors needed to make bonded seams with desired tensile and abrasive strengths. Die moladbility refers to how well a flat seamless piece of fabric may be molded with dies into a given form such as caps.

Caps Fig. Die moldability

Hats

In woven and knitted fabrics this is controlled by skew factor of the fabric; the degree to which the yarn construction in the fabric can be skewed(distorted) from their designed original placement in the fabric, without rupturing any yarns. Laces, nets, knits and stretch fabrics usually have sufficient skewability to permit them to be molded with die molds.

Pressing moldability of collars & pockets Pressing moldability refers to what degree a flat piece of fabric may be skewed during pressing with a hand-iron and/or press buck, in order to attain a desired second- or third-degree linear curve in a fold, such as certain collars, lapels, pockets and other garment sections.

APPAREL FABRIC

Today's apparel fabric has state-of-the-art performance. It maximises enjoyment and comfort in indoors as well as outdoor and in any kind of weather. Technical apparel has become tougher and stronger. Making the fabric waterproof, windproof and breathable through different finishing process is just a minute part of the long lasting properties in demand. Apparel by itself is the over-all term for any article of clothing worn by a man, woman, or child. The four broad categories of clothing are: underwear, nightwear, outerwear, and swimwear. Fabric construction will influence the aesthetic, functional, and cost qualities of materials and is the third characteristic important to your choice. Textile fabric, whether woven or knitted, forms 75% of the garment cost. Many fabrics are characterized and sold based on weight. Think about the variation in your T-shirts. Some are lightweight (2-4 oz. per yard) while others are heavier (6-8 oz.per yard). The yarn diameter and the number of yarns per inch of knit or weave determine the fabric weight. One measurement system used for yarn weight in some fibers is denier, equal to the mass in grams of 9 kilometers of that yarn. As the denier becomes larger, it describes a heavier yarn. Fabrics are referred to by weight in ounces per yard. A shirt or blouse will typically use a lighter weight fabric than pants or a skirt. The weight of the fabric you should choose depends on whether your product's value is in function, durability, or price.

Categories of fabrics and their characteristics in relation to their end uses

BEACH WEAR

Beachwear is the clothing suitable to be worn on a beach, which is somewhere between swimwear and full cloths. Since it is worn outdoors, the fabric of swimwear has to be cool and comfortable. Softness and lightweight along with durability are necessary properties. It dries quickly and is breathable.

Types of fabric for Beachwear

Cotton - It is the perfect to be worn in any season and is most practical and affordable clothes. It does not require extra care and it is allergy free. Lycra - It is a synthetic fabric consisting of polymer, which have polyurethane in it. It is elastic and comfortable. Nylon - It is highly durable and elegant swimwear.

Characteristics of Beachwear Fabric

It is cool and comfortable. It is lightweight. It is durable. It is soft. It is quick drying. It is breathable. It is anti-bacterial. It is UV protected.

Usage of Beachwear Fabric

Shorts Shirts Swim trunks swimsuits Beach pants Waterproof jackets Sarongs Pareos Bath robes T-shirts Tanks

BLANKET FABRIC

Blanket fabric is a thick heavily fulled, usually woolen fabric. It has a soft-brushed finish. Blanket used next to the skin is easily washable where as if used between a sheet and a bed cover requires a less launderable fabric. It is not a compulsion for dry cleaning. Blanket fabric consists of wool, cotton, synthetics and various blends, depending upon the various degree of care. The fabric is napped, either on one side or both sides. Synthetics made blankets are great. They are lightweight as well as warm.

Characteristics of Blanket Fabric

It is lightweight. It is fire resistant. It is easily washable. It is durable. It has high tensile strength.

Uses of Blanket Fabric

Blanket fabric is ideal for capes, work jackets, waistcoats, heavy petticoats and even for blankets. It is also used for erosion control blankets.

INTERLINING FABRIC

Interlining fabric is a soft, but thick fabric which is inserted between the dress fabric and the back lining. Interlining fabric helps the main fabric to drape gracefully. It improves the shape retention quality of the fabric. It gives strength and the padded fabric gives warmth or bulk to the fabric. Interlining fabric is woven, or knitted, or non-woven. The use of adhesive coating is not necessary for all types of interlining fabric. The adhesive coating is a finished interlining fabric, which through a finishing process removes all shrinkage from the product and impart stretch to the fabric. Interlining fabric is made of pure cotton.

Characteristics of Interlining Fabric

It is soft. It is thick. It retains the shape of the main fabric. It is strong and sometimes warm or bulk.

Uses of Interlining Fabric

Interlining fabric is used for making thick, sturdy, smart coats, wind coats, suits and also officer suits.

OUTDOOR FABRIC

Outdoor fabric is soft, comfortable and breathable. It withstands exposure to sunlight and is resistant to mildew, mold, and soil. It repels water and oil and has moisture permeable property. It has a good tearing strength and is stretchable. It is thermal, fire and abrasion resistant. It is very durable with crease resist and pre-shrunk finish. Outdoor fabric is a heavy-duty fabric which can be easily cleaned with soap and water. It is made from a wide variety of synthetic fibres, acrylic, olefin, polyester and various blends, including cotton. These fabrics are made water repellent by the process of chemical treatment.

Characteristics of Outdoor Fabric

It retains its colour and vibrancy for years. It is soft. It is comfortable. It is breathable. It has soil and stain resistant finish. It is easily cleaned. It resists mildew, rot and atmospheric chemicals.

Uses of Outdoor Fabric

Casual wear Sports wear Skiwear Jackets Garments and industrial clothing

QUILTING FABRIC

Quilting is a technique of padding a fabric. It consists of two layers, with batting between the top and the backing fabric. Next it is stitched with decorative designs or threads tied through all thickness in order to prevent the batting from shifting. The quilting stitches are spaced with regularity. The multiple lines of a running stitch are done by hand or by sewing machine. All fabrics used in quilting are pre-washed as well as pressed. The fabrics are easy to needle. They are lightweight and comfortable. Quilting fabrics for pillows and clothing are very luxurious. They drape and wear beautifully.

Fabrics used in Quilting

Cashmere Silk and wool blends 100% cotton 100% polyester

Characteristics of Quilting Fabric

It is durable It is lightweight It is comfortable It is luxurious It is easy needling It is easy to handle It drapes beautifully

Uses of Quilting Fabric

Clothing

TERRY FABRIC

Terry fabric is made up of cotton and it is very absorbent. It is very soft and comfortable. The fabric withstands strain of rubbing, pulling, twisting and tugging by the user. It gets stronger in wet condition. It is easily washed in hot water using strong bleach or detergent. Terry fabric is constructed of a pile weave, sometimes with a jacquard pattern. The

pile may be either cut or uncut. Generally the fabric is formed using two sets of warp yarns. The one sided pile is known as "Turkish towelling". Terry cloth is more absorbent when it has loops on both sides. Best qualities of terry cloth have a close, firm and under weave with very close loops. The first mechanical loom for terry weaving was developed in England. The technique originated from the Orient around 1850. This mechanical loom served as the base for modern terry weaving machines of today.

Characteristics of Terry Fabric

It is very absorbent. It is comfortable. It is easy to launder. It does not require ironing. It is used for long wearing.

Uses of Terry Fabric

Terry cloth is typically used as towels, bath robes and beach cover-ups due to its softness and highly absorbent quality. It is also used as: Sportswear Childrens wear Slip covers Draperies Exercise wear Infant and toddler accessories and toys

KINTTED FABRICS

Knitting is a process of interloping of Wales and courses. Knitted fabrics are composed of a loop structure that resists ravelling when cut. Most knits stretch, especially crosswise, and thus can be used in close-fitting garments without as much concern for fitting ease as would be required in more rigid woven fabric. There are several types of knit with different appearance and characteristics, as well. The basic characteristics of knitted fabrics are: Extensible Cheaper to produce More comfort High crease resistance Bulky so provides good insulation and warm High air permeability More shrinkage There is following two types of knitting.

1. Warp knitting
Vertical interloping of Wales and courses is known as warp knitting.

WARP KNITTED FABRICS

2. Weft knitting
Horizontal interloping of these Wales and courses is known as weft knitting.

WEFT KNITTING FABRICS Weft knits are used more for apparels and warp knits are used mainly for decorative purposes or special garments. So, the various types of knits used for major part of apparels are 2 types of knits double knits, interlock and rib knit, and single knits -jerseys and fleeces.

FLEECE FABRIC & GARMENT

Identifying the type of Knit

If you can't tell the difference, don't feel bad -- many clerks in fabric stores cant' tell the difference either! The best way to familiarize yourself is to look in your closet. An expensive knit top ($20 or more) will probably be interlock; everyday tees will probably be jersey, and girls leggings or mens/boys fitted briefs will be rib knit. The face looks more or less the same on all 3 fabrics -- they all have small vertical ribs. Go to the back of the fabric and gently pull the across the stretch. Interlock will look more or less the same on the face and back, jersey has a wavy purl pattern that

runs perpendicular to the face rib. If you're still not sure, cut a piece from selvedge to selvedge, if its jersey the cut edge will curl on itself, interlock and rib will lay flat. Side Interlock Rib knit Jersey

Face

Back

Jersey Softness Soft Durability Excellent Drape Good Uses Everyday

Tees,

Interlock Rib Knit Softest Soft Good Good Best Good shorts,Elegant Tees, shorts,Tight tees, lining,dresses, sleepwear

skirts, leggings,

dresses, lining, sleepwear dresses,

underwear, collars and

cuffs Stability Unstable, curls when cut,Stable, cut ends willStable, cut ends will lay can run Pros Cons (like nylonlay flat, will not run. flat, will not run. Soft, elegant drape stockings) from cut edges. Durable, less pilling, easySoft, elegant drape

washing Not as soft as interlock,Requires more care inRibknits with no lycra not as warm. after sewing, C/L blends especially tricky. Requires more care in laundering pilling down) (to keep laundering (to keepmay stretch out over time. Seams curl, before andpilling down)

Variation in dimensional properties of weft knit fabric often results in differences in physical and mechanical properties such as heat retention, permeability, tenacity, resilience, elasticity, abrasion resistance, fuzz resistance, pill resistance, snag. The properties of a knitted structure are largely determined by the interdependence of each stitch with its neighbours on either side and above and below it. It has already been shown that loop length is the only factor influencing the dimensional properties of the knitted fabric. However, yams of different counts knitted to the same loop length will display different physical characteristics, such as handle, drape, openness, permeability, etc. A fabric knitted from a course yarn will be much more tightly knitted for a given loop length than would a fine yarn. Knit fabrics are easy to sew and fit, require less pressing and care, and are comfortable to wear. Knit fabrics range from casual sweatshirt fleece to elegant stretch velvets and are available in a wide variety of fibres both natural and synthetic and a combination of the two. The degree of stretch varies from 20 to 35%.

APPLICATIONS OF KNITS ACCORDING TO THEIR CHARACTERISTICS Double knit is a firm, medium to heavy weight fabric which has fine ribs and usually looks the same on both sides. Because the fabric has minimal stretch, patterns designed for woven fabric can also be used. Suitable for skirts, pants, jackets and dresses.

DOUBLE KNIT GARMENTS

Sweatshirt fleece has minimal stretch, flat vertical ribs on right side and a brushed soft surface on the wrong side. Suitable for sweatshirts, pants, jackets, and other sporty garments.

SPORTSWEAR Single knit fabrics and jersey knits are light to medium weight fabrics with flat vertical ribs on the right side and dominant horizontal lines on the wrong side. Fabric stretches from 20 to 25% across the grain. Suitable for T-shirts, tops, dresses, pull-on pants, beachwear, shorts, skirts, and sleepwear.

BEACHWEAR

T-SHIRTS Interlock is a light to medium weight fabric with a fine rib on both sides. Fabric stretches 25 to 35% across the grain. Suitable for tops, dresses, pull-on pants, shorts, skirts, and sleepwear.

SKIRT

TOP

Velour and stretch velvet are available in various weights. Velour and stretch velvet have a soft brushed nap on the right side; velvet has a shiner appearance than velour. Fabric stretches 25 to 35% or more across the grain. It is suitable for tops, shirts, dresses, skirts, pull-on pants, and shorts and easy jackets.

VELVET DRESS Sweater and textured novelty knits are available in a variety of weights and textures. The degree of stretch varies. These knit fabrics are suitable for pull-over sweaters, cardigans, simple dresses and pull-on skirts.

CARDIGAN Two way stretch fabrics are fabrics with Spandex/spandex and have approximately 75% stretch. Swimwear fabrics of Nylon/spandex usually have the most stretch on lengthwise grain; Cotton/spandex has most stretch on crosswise grain and is suitable for swimwear, active wear, dancewear, leotards and leggings.

LEGGING Ribbing has approximately 100% crosswise stretch and has prominent vertical ribs on both sides. This stretch makes it suitable for neckbands, waistbands and cuffs. TIP: Do not pre-wash ribbing as it will be more difficult to sew.

NECKBAND

KNITTED BAND This was all about the knitted fabric, their characteristics and end uses.

WOVEN FABRICS

Woven fabrics are made with two sets of yarns interlaced at right angles to each other. The interlacing can vary considerably to create patterns, nap, or textures. Unless manufactured with stretch-textured or elastomeric yarns, they have no or very little stretch.

INTERLACEMENT The basic characteristics of woven fabrics are: Inextensible Costlier to produce Less comfort Less crease resistant Rigid fabrics so less insulation and warm but provides superior resistance to wind Low air permeability Less shrinkage Woven fabrics are used for normal wearable clothing, luxury clothing, or industrial clothing. The luxury woven fabrics are velvets, satins, metallic fabrics, leather look fabrics etc.

Types of Woven fabrics, their characteristics and end uses

Acetate - It is used as uniforms, clothing and lingerie. It has a crisp feel with lustrous

appearance of silk and excellent drapeability.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Acrylic - It is used as a substitute for wool. It is durable, soft, and has a wooly feel. It is resistant to sun and chemicals.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Broadcloth - Closely woven and wears very well but wrinkles very badly. It is used as shirts, dresses, blouses, summer wear.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Brocade - Usually made fit for eveningwear, church vestments, interior furnishings, and robes. It has rich, heavy, elaborate design effect.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Challis - It is soft, very lightweight and is washable. It is used as women's and children's dresses, kimonos, neckties and sportswear.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Chambray - It is smooth, strong, closely woven and soft. Used as children's wear, dresses, shirts and blouses, aprons and all kinds of sportswear.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Chiffon - Used as eveningwear, blouses and scarves. It is lightweight, sheer, transparent and very fine.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Cotton - It is very elastic and withstand high temperatures. It has high washability and dyes well. It is comfortable in all weather. It is used as all types of clothing.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Crepe - All types of dresses finds a fit place like from long dinner dresses to suits and coats. It has a crinkled and puckered surface with a soft mossy finish. It has rough feel

and appearance.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Damask - It is very durable, made from silk in actual. It sheds dirt, launders well and holds high lustre, especially in linen.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Denim - Used as pants, caps, uniforms, bedspreads, slipcovers, draperies, upholstery, sportswear. It resists snags and tears. It comes in heavy to lighter weights.

DENIM GARMENTS Drill - A cotton fabric used for uniforms, work cloths, and sportswear.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Faille - It has a lustrous finish. Used as dresses, blouses, and some dressy coats.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Flannel - Used as blazers, dresses, skirts, suits and coats. It is soft with a napped

surface. It shrinks if not pre-shrunk. It sags with wear.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Flax - It is of linen with a high absorbent quality, allowing moisture to evaporate quickly. It is easily washable but has a poor elasticity.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Gabardine - Used as men's and women's tailored suits, coats, raincoats, uniforms, and men's shirts. It has a clear finish. It is durable and wears extremely well.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Georgette - It is crisp with an outstanding durability. It is sheer and has a dull face.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Houndstooth - Sports coats and suits are made out of it. It is usually of wool.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Moire - It is made of silk, rayon or cotton and has a watermarked finish. It is used as eveningwear, formals, dresses and coats.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Nylon - It is used as women's hosiery, knitted or woven lingerie, socks and sweaters. It is elastic, easy to wash and is lustrous.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Organdy - It is used as summer formals, blouses and aprons. It is a tightly twisted yarn with a crisp.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Organza - Used as evening dresses. It is fine, sheer, lightweight and crisp.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Oxford - Mostly used for men's shirts. It is made of cotton and sometimes even of

rayon.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Polyester - It is smooth, crisp and springy. It is readily washable and is not damaged by sunlight. It is made for all weather and is resistant to moths and mildew.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Pongee - It is made of silk, cotton, or rayon and used for dresses, blouses and summer suits. It is lightweight.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Rayon - It is a cellulose fiber based fabric and is highly absorbent. It drapes well and

is resistant to moths, bleaches and chemicals.

FABRIC

GARMENT

Silk - It is very strong and absorbent. It has a brilliant sheen and unique softness.

FABRIC

GARMENT

LYCRA FABRIC
When we think of Spandex, our minds often travel back to the 1980s. Tight legging spandex shorts were coupled with oversized sweatshirts and tube socks in bright colors. Although the use of spandex never stopped, its popularity decreased due to unfashionable stigma attached to the fabric by the early 1990s. The spandex of the new millennium has experienced a revolution, shedding the negative confines of the twentieth century.

Stretch & recovery Spandex was the first manufactured elastic fiber, and was introduced by DuPont under the trade name "Lycra" in 1958. Spandex gained interest quickly due to its superiority to the strength and durability of rubber. Spandex also has a better resistance to dry heat and oil, in comparison to rubber, which helped to skyrocket its popularity when it was first introduced. These attributes helped usher in a new era of comfort in the fashion industry, and virtually eliminated the use of any other elastomeric fabrics. Spandex has become one of the most popular blending fabrics. Blending spandex with other fabrics creates a more stable, durable garment. Adding spandex to a fabric also provides a higher level of comfort, a longer shelf life, and a better resistance to perspiration and body oils. This is why spandex has become so widely used in the "Workout Wear" and "Swim Wear" industries. The level of comfort and wicking ability found in Spandex are unparalleled, and do not exist in such high amounts with any other fabric.

Lycra in Knitted fabric

Cotton Lycra garment

Lycra lace

80% Nylon, 20% Lycra

5% Lycra leggings

Lycra in Woven fabric

5% Lycra Denims

Lycra tops

Spandex is being used in a continually widening array of clothing articles, including woven and knits, and synthetics and natural fibres. Many of the fabrics use a 3% to 30% spandex content, depending on the type or genre of the garment. The use of spandex is becoming increasingly popular within the plus-sized industry. Using spandex creates a less confined feel, and allows a garment to glide over the silhouette for a more flattering look. Older consumers interests have also been piqued by spandex due the comfort stretch, and common use in cotton knits. These types of demographic and physical changes have given spandex a new name- one that is synonymous with comfort and flexibility. The plus-sized industry utilizes spandex to give size appropriate customers a less constrictive fit. Blending cotton and spandex is one of the most popular combinations in use, and is especially predominant in this segment of the fashion industry. Spandex is often blended with suiting and dress fabrics, such as wool, silk, and rayon, to create a lighter, more flexible fabric that travels easily. When a 2-5% spandex content is utilized in the making of these suits, blouses, jackets, and slacks, they can be worn all day, and still feel comfortable. Spandex makes a marked difference, even in the smallest amounts. Spandex has more shape retention than any other fashion fabric; it can stretch up to 600 times its length, and bounce back to its original structure. Shape retention also allows garments to provide superior support without stretching. This quality is especially important in foundations such as girdles, bras, underwear, and support hose. No other fabric blend is as firm, gentle, or comfortable, as a fabric blend that includes spandex. This means that when you wear a garment with a higher Lycra spandex content, youre wearing a garment that virtually contains no bulk! This makes for a smoother silhouette, and gives a curvier shape a more fluid line. Seamless spandex not only supports a fuller figure, it also provides the illusion of a more toned frame. The use of this seamless Lycra has become one of the most popular additions to the plus-sized facet of the fashion industry.

Spandex is an outstanding blending fabric due to its excellent resiliency, dimensional stability, and elastic recovery. It enhances the features of every fabric its blended with to create a stronger, more versatile piece of clothing. Spandex brings out the best in other fabrics by complimenting their strongest qualities. Garments have a greater freedom and flexibility, and we have clothes that support us and allow us more freedom. It is a well-known fact that knitted fabric is characterised by its superior elastic properties over others such as woven and non-woven fabrics. Fabrics of different categories like sportswear, casual wear etc. which require extra elastic property, knitted fabric are found to be very useful. The inclusion of yarn containing elastane, further elasticises the fabric, resulting in immediate and complete construction of garments. In this way, fabric becomes perfect for some special garments such as aerobic exercise wear, cycling shorts, swimwear etc. Due to this marvellous application in knitting, it is often known as "Miracle Fibre" and the knitwear made out of this yarn called "Magic Knit". Spandex is a polyurethane polymer (having more than 85% of segmented polyurethane) produced by the reaction of polyester or polyether glycol with di-isocyanate. The yarn are ordinarily white, with a dull lustre and are supplied as zero twist, in which the individual filaments are joined together to form a monofilament like yarn.

REFERENCES
BOOKS 1. APPAREL MANUFACTURING HANDBOOK ANALYSIS PRINCILPES $ PRACTICE by Solinger, J. 2. Garment manufacturing technology, NCUTE 3. Evaluating apparel quality WEBSITES http://dspacelocal.library.cornell.edu/web_archive/instruct1.cit.cornell.edu/courses/cut tingedge/sourcing_matl/10sourcing.html http://www.fabrics.net/amyspandex.asp http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/7040124-description.html http://products.ec21.com/manufacturers/lycra.html http://www.online-fabrics.co.uk/shop/browse/category_id/Dancewear?cookie_done http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/sewinginfo/hsc-sewing-hints/sewing-fabricknits.htm