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News Tiree

THE ISLANDS BOOK TRUST URRAS LEABHRAICHEAN NAN EILEAN

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THE ISLANDS BOOK TRUST URRAS LEABHRAICHEAN NAN EILEAN

No.37 September 2013

ne w s l e t t e r editor

Alayne M Barton

ry to

INSIDE Changes
tiree - boats in the harbour at scarinish (courtesy of linda gowans)

Slighe Chaluim Chille Stroma

Uist and Barra Lewis and Harris and................. the remaining 2013 events programme

stroma

- call to prayer (courtesy of martin smith)

NEWSLETTER Due to requests from members and increasing postage costs we will no longer be sending out copies of the newsletter by post, but will email them to members instead. Please keep us updated if you change your email address. If you would like to continue to receive your copy by post, please inform Alayne at alayne@theislandsbooktrust.com or 01851 820946.

www.theislandsbooktrust.com

changes at the islands book trust

Message from John Randall
At the end of this year, I will have completed 12 years as chairman of the Book Trust.We have developed into a much bigger organisation over that period, with some 400 members, several paid employees, and an established programme of talks, conferences, visits, and publications covering many different islands. I feel that now is the time to hand over the chairmanship to a new pair of hands. So I announced at the AGM that, while happy to stay on as a Trustee, I would be standing down as chairman from the start of 2014. The Trustees have discussed future arrangements and have agreed the following plans: * Alasdair MacEachen will take over as chairman from January 2014 * Iain Gordon Macdonald, in addition to continuing as chairman of the Publications Sub-Committee, will take over responsibility for co-ordinating future Lewis events, bringing in other Lewisbased members as appropriate * I will remain as a Trustee but take no part in the day to day running of the Book Trust, concentrating on longer-term issues such as building strategic partnerships and fund-raising * The Trusts registered address will remain at Ravenspoint, with Alayne Barton as our senior employee working from home as at present Both Alasdair and Iain Gordon have recently reduced their paid work commitments and I am delighted that they have agreed to take on these enhanced responsibilities. Both have been associated with the running of the Book Trust for many years, and I have no doubt that the future of our organisation is in good hands.We do not see Alasdairs location in Benbecula as a problem indeed it will emphasise that the Book Trust is an islands-wide organisation. Coinciding with these changes, Donnie Morrison has indicated that he wishes to stand down as a Trustee for personal reasons. While Donnie will continue to help the Trust on some matters, there will be a need to fill the gap in relation to the substantial work Donnie has been doing, in particular on photographic enhancement and other publication processes. Finally, Margaret Macdonald, our Publications and Administrative Assistant based at Ravenspoint, has indicated that she wishes to retire before the end of the year.We are considering introducing a new restructured post at Ravenspoint. I am confident that the Book Trust has a bright future. It will benefit from new blood and new thinking. I am extremely grateful to all Trustees, staff, and members who have supported and helped us develop over the last 12 years.
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FRIDAY 25th OCTOBER 10th ANGUS MACLEOD MEMORIAL LECTURE, PAIRC SCHOOL, GRAVIR The annual Angus Ease Macleod memorial lecture, organised by the Islands Book Trust and Comunn Eachdraidh na Pairc and a highlight of the calendar for all those interested in historical and current island issues, is fast approaching.This year is the 10th lecture in the series, and we are delighted that Kenny MacAskill MSP, Cabinet Secretary for Justice in the Scottish Government who has family connections with South Lochs, has agreed to speak. His title will be Opportunities of Independence for Island Communities. The lecture will take place at 7.30pm on Friday 25th October at Pairc School, Gravir, South Lochs, Lewis. All are welcome. Admission is free and refreshments will be provided. For more details, please contact John Randall on 01851 880365 or john.lemreway@talktalk.net Please note this date is changed from that originally announced at start of year.

Kenny Macaskill MSP

the islands book trust september 2013

HEBRIDEAN CONNECTIONS HOSTS TALK AND BOOK LAUNCH ON EMIGRATION The new Hebridean Connections project, which aims to bring together Comainn Eachdraidh and other groups throughout the Outer Hebrides to share knowledge and information about the unique and valuable cultural heritage of the islands, organised an evening talk and book launch by a leading expert on the hugely important phenomenon of emigration from Scotland in the 20th century, at the County Hotel, Stornoway, on Thursday 2nd May. Well -known historian Marjory Harper, Professor of History at Aberdeen University, talked about her new book Scotland No More?, which includes many personal stories about emigrants from the islands. Donnie Morrison, chairman of Hebridean Connections, said: This was a wonderful opportunity to hear from a real expert on a subject of great personal and historic interest to so many in the islands. Emigration from the Outer Hebrides certainly did not stop at the time of the Clearances. Emigrant ships such as the Metagama in the 1920s are etched into island family and community memories, and the links established through emigration with communities on the other side of the world still often remain very strong. It is part of our aim in the new Hebridean Connections project to build on these worldwide links through developing an innovative website which will encourage cultural tourism and strengthen economic and social life throughout the Outer Hebrides. STEAMERS TO STORNOWAY LAUNCH Steamers to Stornoway, the new book by Lewis resident Colin Tucker, was launched on Thursday 23rd May, very appropriately at the ferry terminal building in Stornoway. The event was organised by the Book Trust in conjunction with Caledonian MacBrayne and the Stornoway Port Authority. Colin gave a short talk about his book and then signed copies and this was followed by a delicious buffet provided by Calmac. LAUNCH OF JOHN MACDONALDS AN TRUSADH, MEMORIES OF CROFTING IN THE ARDVEG A very successful, enjoyable and extraordinarily well attended launch of An Trusadh took place at Uig Community Centre on Saturday 29 June 2013, hosted by Comann Eachdraidh Uig. Special thanks go to: John Maciver, chair of the Comann Eachdraidh; the Uig Community Centre Association for use of the splendid facilities; the tea room staff for the delicious lunch and the army of volunteers
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ABOVE: Colin Tucker at the launch of his book Steamers to Stornoway BELOW: John Macdonald at the launch of An Trusadh

who served the food, set up the hall so attractively and tidied everything away so efficiently a mammoth task, so professionally accomplished. It is a delight for the Islands Book Trust to have published John MacDonalds story of crofting and life in the Ardveg and Uig from the 1930s through to the 50s and so introduce it to a wider audience beyond his extended family, friends and some of the folk of Uig. IBTs involvement in An Trusadh very much represents what the Trust is all about. John MacDonald, and his sister Ina, are sadly, part of a small, diminishing generation capable of educating and entertaining us with first-hand accounts of crofting life in the islands during the first half of the twentieth century. Ardveg today may well be uninhabited, remote and difficult to reach but John MacDonalds story is of a theme and place of universal appeal and contemporary importance. And, for 8 (plus postage) An Trusadh is a bargain read. Bob Chambers EBOOKS We now have several of our books available as Ebooks. Both volumes of Exploring the Isles of the West, Rewriting St Kilda, and the Spanish version of Return to Patagonia, Regreso a la Patagonia are available in Epub or Mobi formats for a variety of ereaders. More titles will be available soon we will keep you updated in future editions of the newsletter.
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slighe chaluim chille leads

Thursday 20th Saturday 22nd June saw an important international conference organised by the Islands Book Trust take place in South Lochs, with speakers and visitors from Ireland and Scotland along with many local people, exploring the life, legend, and legacy of St Columba on the 1450th anniversary of his arrival in Scotland. St Columba is the best known of the early Christian saints who journeyed from Ireland to Scotland in and around the 6th century AD, in search of personal fulfilment or to evangelise. He is believed to have been born at Gartan, Donegal, leaving Ireland in 563 to found a monastery on Iona, where he died in 597. Many legends surround his activities, particularly in Ulster, Iona, and the Hebrides, and indeed a whole mythology has been developed over the centuries, often by people and institutions with a vested interest in claiming an historic link with Columba. His religious and cultural legacy is of great importance, and includes many early churches dedicated to his name in both Ireland and Scotland. The main sessions were held in Orinsay, in the lovely new hall with its beautiful views across the loch to the Shiant islands. Although the weather was unseasonably chilly and wet, we inside soon forgot about such mundane concerns as one by one the speakers drew us in, firstly Donald Meek with his talk about St Columba and Celtic Christianity and then Carol Knott reflecting on the archaeological evidence for early Christian chapels in the Outer Hebrides. Tea and a splendid array of cakes were served in the break, which was very much appreciated. Following the afternoon session we hot footed it along to Ravenspoint for the launch of our new book Island Spirituality by Alastair McIntosh, after which the evening meal was served in the stunning new caf at Ravenspoint. Maolcholaim Scott, Colmcille Development
the islands book trust september 2013

to ravenspoint and orinsay

Officer, was the evening speaker and he told us about the development of Slighe Chaluim Chille; the St Columba Trail, which goes from Glencolmcille, Donegal, in the south to Lewis in the north, including many sites in Donegal, Derry, Argyllshire, Easter Ross, and the Outer Hebrides. The following morning started bright and early as Mark Thacker gave his presentation about Eilean Chaluim Chille and the development of post-Reformation burial aisles and enclosures in Lewis and Scotland, after which was one of the highlights of the conference; a visit to Eilean Chaluim Chille, the tidal island at the mouth of Loch Erisort, where well-known Gaelic singer Kristine Kennedy of Orinsay precented some Gaelic psalms in the old graveyard next to the remains of the former teampull dedicated to St Columba. It was a moving experience for all, despite the clouds of midges surrounding us! After a delicious lunch Maire Herbert, who had come all the way from University College Cork, told us about St Columba from an Irish perspective and James Fraser was on hand immediately afterwards to do the same from a Scottish perspective. In the evening a wonderful ceilidh was held at Ravenspoint with turns from locals and visitors alike. Although somewhat bleary-eyed next day, there was a good turnout for Colin Scott Mackenzies talk about the history of Eaglais na h-Aoidhe and Catriona Garbutt and her nephew Neil Campbell gave a fascinating presentation about Teampull Chaluim Chille in Benbecula. There followed an interesting discussion session on the future development of Slighe Chaluim Chille before the conference was formally closed. IBT hope to publish a book based on the proceedings of the conference next year.
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TOP:Alastair McIntosh reads from his book at the launch ABOVE: Singer Christine Kennedy BELOW: Teampull on Eilean Chaluim Chille

Stroma 2013

by martin smith

After a successful book launch and visit to Stroma in 2012, Christine Gunn of Caithness Horizons decided in response to local demand to repeat the visit on two dates in August 2013.We arrived in bright sunshine on a calm Saturday morning at Gills Bay to be welcomed by Christine. (We learned that the previous weekend visit was cancelled because of inclement weather.)The terminal facilities were much improved, with new buildings to service the Orkney Catamaran housing ticket office, cafe, toilets and television. After introductions and instructions we were provided with useful information sheets about Stroma antiquities, points of interests and habitations. Included with this was the advice that the school house would be open and available as shelter in the event of deterioration in the weather and if the boat was unable to return to collect us! (Two groups of ten were to leave and return at hourly intervals on the Boy James, the same name as the vessel which took us on the trip to Barra Head few weeks previously.) The majority of our first group had some connection with the island, either through schooling, lighthouse duty or family members who were taking advantage of this rare transport opportunity. In addition we had aboard a wheelchair for a former resident who was returning after many years and a local green-keeper, together with a set of clubs. His day was to be spent preparing the greens for the annual tournament on the challenging nine-hole course next day. (We later learnt that if the rain forecast for Sunday did arrive the participants would be quite happy, as suitable solid and liquid refreshment was stashed at appropriate locations around the island). Despite a flat calm sea the tidal rips at the southern end were visible from Gills Bay as was the tidal race, the Swilkie, at the northern tip on arrival. We were met at Stroma quay by a quad to transport the former resident and wheelchair along the grass to the track north to visit the lighthouse and Gloup.The wheelchair later provided the transport for return, calling at the school, the former residence and the church.The group split up on arrival as everyone set off to explore their own particular interest and we were soon unaware of others on this apparently small land mass.There were many more properties than expected and many in a relatively intact state, considering their exposed location in the Pentland Firth and the fact that they were abandoned about 50 years ago.A few properties had obviously been renovated to provide temporary accommodation and the church was apparently used as a machinery, wood and animal food store.The only local residents were the roaming flock of sheep and aggressive Great Skuas patrolling to protect their young in the north.With so much to explore (archaeology, lighthouse, memorial, church, wildlife, coastline cliffs, and Gloup, together with habitations) the five hours quickly passed. We assembled for the return journey and were joined by a family of four who were leaving after their holiday, together with dog, luggage, and empty water containers etc.We all signed the visitors book, which is carried aboard Boy James, with our thoughts on a memorable day.The tide was now low and after manhandling cargo up onto the quayside the boat manoeuvred out to the jetty steps for safe disembarkation.This involved a close encounter with a rapidly approaching Catamaran reversing into the linkspan on its journey from Orkney, hoping he was aware of our presence.As we left the island the clouds were beginning to gather and before reaching Wick it was raining steadily did the second group make it back without getting wet? We didnt care as wed enjoyed a magical experience. Such was the success that plans are already in hand for a similar event in 2014 and Ill be signing up in order to complete my exploration of the island.
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the islands book trust september 2013

Ruth Sim (ne Ord), daughter of one of the former lighthouse keepers, stands on the left of this lovely group photograph, which contains another photograph of her and her sister, Katie, on the open pages of IBTs Stroma book! Christine Russell (ne Simpson), daughter of Jimmy Simpson, Stromas owner, and sister of William, the boatman, is standing behind Ruth, with Christine Gunn and John Randall on the right.
photo courtesy of donald meek

Christine Gunn and Stewart Sinclair, who is a native of Stroma, which he left when he was 11 years old. His former home is immediately behind him.
photo courtesy of donald meek

Standing on the pier, about to leave Stroma, Willie the boatman is on the far right.

photo courtesy of christine gunn

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stroma visit
10 8 2013
Donald Meek was so inspired by his visit to Stroma that he wrote a beautiful poem, which he has kindly agreed to share with us.

Islands are complex places, Layers, mixtures, tangles Of time and tide and tempest, Of comings and goings, Of lives and deaths, Of endings and beginnings, Of weathers, skies and seas Everything piled together, Past, present and future, Buildings thrown down, Rusting tools, Restored houses, Hopeful signs among graveyards, Exiles brought up there And now back again; Enthusiasts who want to study Something, focusing on Birds, plants, animals, grass, Rocks, fields, Myopically eager; Strangers once, Now trying to go native, Probing sheepishly below the surface, The new islanders, But there is nothing new On an island. We have been there before; I wander purposefully Over Stromas spine, A new island to me, But totally familiar; Every mark of its distinctive ways Utterly meaningful; Even the ruins are my friends, Speaking of battles lost, Some partly won, contending with Elemental energies Beyond our own, My struggles Stromas struggles. The restored house my house. Sheep hardly move as I pass; I am their friend too; They know I speak their bleat, Understand what it is to be ruffled, Thundered sideways by hurricanes; We exchange meaningful glances, Sheep without a shepherd, As I pass their church, Now implemented with remnants Of recent exertion,

Themselves immobile Beside the telephone box, Stroma One or did it? The single pole Communicates with nothing, Its glass smashed, Transmitting jagged messages, Cutting my mind. The school haunts me, Sears me,VitaVinctis Life for those in Bondage, Falling apart on a shelf; Bondage broken, pupils Have escaped, Found new life beyond the sound Of sea and teachers Tutorial History of England Written in their souls. The lighthouse points bluntly skywards, Beam automated, no keepers, The foghorn silent, No Noise here to notice Only the roar of the Swelkie, A stern eternity in its notes, Sterner than the pulpit on the ridge, As it chews the harsh ledges Where boys caught lobsters, But there are no boys now. I look outwards, blunt ships passing, Catching my spirit, my yearning, Contending with the current Or swept along unstoppably, Black with fire-red below The waterline On deep blue. A world passes an island; An island passes a world; An island is a world; A world is an island. It is the centre Of the centuries, Revolving, Evolving, The outpost Of everyones Ultimate meeting, True destiny.
the islands book trust september 2013

Blinking, into the Sunlight!

A Report on The Secret Island Conference, held on the island of Tiree from 30 May 1 June 2013. Organised by the Islands book Trust in conjunction with An Iodhlann. Dr John Holliday

It was the week that Tirees history emerged, blinking, into the sunlight. The week that the Secret Island became a little less secret. And a week that showed that Tiree could put on quite a show! The three day history conference,The Secret Island, ended triumphantly last weekend as the Islands Book Trust hailed it as their best ever conference mainly because islanders, as well as delegates from Australia, Canada and Switzerland, mixed with members of the Island Book Trust from the length of Britain, had supported the event in such numbers. And they were right. On the Saturday morning there was standing room only in An Talla as 110 people listened raptly to Donald Meek talking about Tiree as a Rebellious Island. Maybe that tells us something! They heard Nicholas Maclean-Bristol from Coll talk with his usual authority about Colls history and how the two islands were connected. Lewiss Donald William Stewart showed why he is a rising star of the history world with a passionate speech about Martin Martins visit to Tiree in 1700 and why Martin seemed so interested in Tiree beer. Donald William had spent a day in the new archives of Inverary Castle and had unearthed some fascinating material about the Campbell invasion of Tiree in 1679. Rob Dunbar is the new Professor of Celtic Studies at Edinburgh University and has made John MacLean, Bard Thighearna Cholla, his lifes study. MacLean, claimed by many to be the finest poet Tiree has ever produced, started his life as a praise poet to the clan chief and ended it in Nova Scotia. Margaret Mackay, the now retired Director of the School of Scottish Studies, gave a beautifully delivered talk about the joys and sadnesses of emigration from Tiree to Canada. But the star of the show was Donald Meek. He delivered six talks ranging from the crofters rebellion (showing how crofters were fighting each other as much as the landlord), the different Tiree churches, to ferries and planes. His paintings brightened the hall and he unexpectedly became the conference song writer with his love song, Fergie Mo Rinsa, in praise of his beloved tractor. It looks like this is going to be a popular addition to Ethel MacCallums repertoire from now on! Ronald Black was researching at Inverary Castle and was unable to make it to the conference. In his absence Donald Murray read Blacks detailed talk about Tiree in the 1745. This was the conference at its best showing how new research is opening up the islands history for the first time. John Bowler talked about the way bird populations on Tiree have changed since the Ice Age glaciers melted 10,000 years ago. The island became covered with low trees and scrub and very
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few birds.The way humans have changed the landscape, cutting down trees and creating grassland has allowed bird life to flourish. And his most important point was this Tirees birds have actually changed very little in the last two hundred years, something you cant say about the rest of Britain. On the Friday afternoon Catriona Smyth and Bob Higham showed people around the Soroby and Kirkapol graveyards. Catriona has just finished her detailed report on Soroby and showed us where the old church stood. Every gravestone has now been photographed and recorded and the results collected together for An Iodhlanns website. Ernest Beveridge was the son of a wealthy mill owner. Lesley Ferguson is an authority on his life and talked about the beautiful photographs that Beveridge took, recording the buildings of Tiree about 1900. Ailean Boyd has completed a huge and detailed study of Tiree Gaelic and was able to demonstrate the tiny differences in pronunciation between the Gaelic of different islands. Iona Brown has studied the way Tirees Gaelic has changed over three generations, becoming less traditional and more midMinch because of the influences of radio and television. It was clear during the question and answer session how passionately Tiree people feel about their language, and how the Tiree accent and words should be taught to the schoolchildren. Gordon Scott has made himself an expert on the building of the Heylipol and Kirkapol churches. His detailed research has shown how the estate turned an old building at the pier in Scarinish harbour into a parish church. Ian Smith,West Hynish, is studying at the Glasgow Music Conservatoire. But he has found time to turn himself into an authority on the terrible Balephuil fishing disaster of 1856. The conferences youngest speaker, he rightly earned the warmest applause of the conference. Throughout the three days of talks, Josie Brown and An Tallas superb committee laboured mightily in the kitchens to feed the delegates with lunch and dinner. They were almost over whelmed by the huge numbers on the Saturday. Some of those attending from further afield would have liked to have had more time to explore the island on their own but the tight timetable didnt allow for that. The whole event was underpinned by a 5000 grant from the Tiree Trust. Dr John Holliday, one of the events organisers, told An Tirisdeach,This conference has really put Tiree on the map. It was a lot of work by An Iodhlanns committee and their archivist, Janet Bowler. And it has been a big

Mairi Campbell shows Margaret MacDonald round the archive at An Iodhlann

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investment by the Windfall Fund. But I think it has shown that the islands heritage, culture and history, as well as being fascinating in themselves, are increasingly important industries, capable of attracting people to the island outside the peak season. I welcome the support from the Tiree Trust, and in particular the appointment of Donna MacLean to support this kind of work. The final, packed ceilidh dance showed the world why Tiree is Scotlands best wee music island with Ian Smith, Eilidh MacFadyen,Anna MacDonald and Bernie Smith plus a long list of soloists put on quite a show including Donald William showing us how they dance the Scottische in Lewis, a history rap from Canadas Louise MacDougall and another appearance of Fergie Mo Rinsa! The whole proceedings were recorded and John Randall, the chair of the Islands Book Trust gave a commitment to produce a book of the conference within the next year. Tiree history really has emerged, blinking, into the sunlight!
Other views on the conference Our conference in Tiree was a huge success and certainly one of the best attended conferences held by the Island Book Trust. This was in no small part due to the high quality speaker presentations over the three days and audience participation in the question and answer sessions was excellent, always a good sign. While there were many local residents it was great to see people who had travelled from other parts of the UK and especially those from Australia, Canada and the US who had come specially to attend our conference. The end of the conference was also a great credit to Tiree with so many young gifted musicians to entertain the packed hall. Donnie Morrison,Trustee of the Islands Book Trust One of the priorities of the conference was to establish that the history of the island is what makes you you, it was all about being able to see Tiree through Tiree eyes. Professor Donald Meek We would like to thank Dr John Holliday for permission to reproduce this article, which was first published in An Tirisdeach, the fortnightly newsletter from the Isle of Tiree.

The speakers at the conference

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New and Forthcoming Books from IBT

Island Spirituality Alastair McIntosh This book explores spirituality through the lens of Lewis and Harris - the pre-Reformation temples, Reformation theology, colonisation, clearances and evangelisation under the last of the Mackenzies of Seaforth. Perhaps controversially and certainly, unconventionally, Dr McIntosh concludes that island religion, for all its struggled history and theological tensions, expresses a profound inner spirituality. It reveals itself in kindness that gives backbone to community. It leads towards an ardent desire for God. It is our greatest export to a wider world. ISBN: 978-1-907443-45-9 | 60pp | 12 B&W illustrations | Paperback | 7.50 | Available June 2013 Nights of Passion at the Scarinish Temperance Hotel Donald S. Murray An island writer, Donald S Murray has written in the past about Lewis, Shetland, Orkney, St Kilda, the intricacies of Harris Tweed and the annual guga hunt on Sulasgeir. In this short booklet, he records his first impressions of the Inner Hebridean of Tiree the land of many of his maternal ancestors. In its pages, he contemplates both the irritating mating calls of the corncrake and the even more absurd mating rituals of his fellow human beings as well as the islands history and geography, past and present, the sweep of rocks and magnificent beaches that ring Tirees coast ISBN: 978-1-907443-52-7 | Paperback | 6.00 | Available June 2013 An Trusadh - Memories of Crofting in the Ardveg John MacDonald Today, Ardveg is a remote and uninhabited spot, accessible only on foot over challenging mountainous terrain, or by boat. It is also an extremely beautiful and magnificent location.There is a chapter on the area entitled The Back of Beyond in Alasdair Alpin MacGregors book,The Haunted Isles, published in 1933. In 2012, the Islands Book Trust published Marc Calhouns book, Exploring the Isles of the West in which, in one chapter, he describes an invigorating visit and overnight stay in Ardveg. Unlike those two fleeting visitors to the area, John MacDonald was fortunate enough to have been brought up in Ardveg in one of only three households in the tiny township during the 1930s and 40s. He vividly captures what life was like then for his family mother, father, three sisters and himself and the rest of this vibrant, thriving Gaelic community, including his uncle and grandmother. The result is a fascinating, wide-ranging and unique first-hand account of a bye-gone era.The story reveals hitherto untold details of everyday life of this crofting and fishing community. Ardveg even had its own school. John MacDonald is himself a retired schoolteacher and headmaster, now living in Inverness, with a sister, Ina, still resident in Islivig in Uig on Lewis within striking distance of Ardveg. ISBN: 978-1-907443-53-4 | Paperback | 8.00 | Available now
Today, Ardveg is a remote and uninhabited spot, accessible only on foot over challenging mountainous terrain, or by boat. It is also an extremely beautiful and magnificent location. There is a chapter on the area entitled The Back of Beyond in Alasdair Alpin MacGregors book, The Haunted Isles, published in 1933. In 2012, the Islands Book Trust published Marc Calhouns book, Exploring the Isles of the West in which, in one chapter, he describes an invigorating visit and overnight stay in Ardveg. Unlike those two fleeting visitors to the area, John MacDonald was fortunate enough to have been brought up in Ardveg in one of only three households in the tiny township during the 1930s and 40s. He vividly captures what life was like then for his family mother, father, three sisters and himself and the rest of this vibrant, thriving Gaelic community, including his uncle and grandmother. The result is a fascinating, wide-ranging and unique first-hand account of a bye-gone era. The story reveals hitherto untold details of everyday life of this crofting and fishing community. Ardveg even had its own school. John MacDonald is himself a retired schoolteacher and headmaster, now living in Inverness, with a sister, Ina, still resident in Islivig in Uig on Lewis within striking distance of Ardveg.

An T rusadh
MeMories of Crofting in the Ardveg

An T rusadh
John MACdonAld

8.00

John MACdonAld

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the islands book trust september 2013

Recovering from the Clearances Land Struggle, Re-settlement, and Community Land Ownership in the Hebrides Various Authors Much has been written about the Highland Clearances but relatively little attention has been given to the long and difficult process by which those who were dispossessed - and their descendants - have attempted quite literally to recover some of the ground lost.The Highlands and Islands Land Struggle of the 19th century, often reflecting contemporary developments in Ireland, marked a growing confidence by crofters and led to a change in public opinion more favourable to land reform. Eventually, the Government introduced re-settlement schemes which created additional crofting land. In more recent times, community land ownership initiatives are bringing about profound changes, especially in the Outer Hebrides. Many see this as the final stage in recovery from the Clearances, even though the population of many of the islands is now only a fraction of their earlier populations. This book is based on a highly acclaimed conference held by the Islands Book Trust to mark the 125th anniversary of the Pairc Deer Raid, one of the seminal episodes in the Land Struggle. It includes contributions by outstanding writers such as James Kelman, the Booker Prize winner, Professors James Hunter, Donald Meek, Ewen Cameron, and Marjory Harper, and those with practical experience of the community landownership movement. It will appeal to all those interested in the turbulent history of the land question in the islands as well as readers seeking to understand the significance of current developments. ISBN: 978-1-907443-57-2 | Paperback | 15.00 | Available now

Forgotten Star/Rionnag Chaillte The Untold Story of former Celtic, Kilmarnock, Brentford and Scotland great Malcolm MacDonald An Stiridh iogantach aig Calum Dmhnallach iaoch Celtic, Cille Mhernaig, Brentford agus Alba Alex OHenley Variously described as being among the 20 greatest Celtic players of all time, and the finest all-round player Ive ever seen, this is the untold story of Malcolm Malky MacDonalds rise from impoverished roots in South Uist and Garngad to become one of the most significant players in the history of Celtic Football Club. A key member of the Golden Team which lifted the Empire Exhibition Trophy in Celtics Golden Jubilee season in 1938, Malky played every outfield position bar goalkeeper for the Hoops and went on to enjoy a distinguished career as manager of Kilmarnock (twice), Brentford and briefly Scotland. From humble roots in the Western Isles, this biography tells the story of one of Scottish footballs Forgotten Stars who was deemed good enough to grace any Celtic side, including Jock Steins famous Lisbon Lions.
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An luib na fichead cluicheadair as fherr a bh aig Celtic riamh agus an cluicheadair as coileanta a chunna mi riamh dreach beagan dhe na chaidh a rdh mu Chalum Dmhnallach a dhirich a-mach bochdainn ann an Uibhist a Deas agus Garngad gu bhith air a mheas mar fhear dhe na cluicheadairean as fherr ann an eachdraidh Celtic. Mar phromh chluicheadair san Sgioba ir a ghlidh Cuach Taisbeanaidh na h-mpireachd ann am bliadhna Iubalaidh a chlub ann an 1938, chluich Calum anns a h-uile ite ach a-mhin neach-gleidhidh sa chiad sgioba aig Celtic mus deach e air adhart gu bhith na mhanaidsear soirbheachail aig Cille Mhernaig (d thuras), Brentford agus greiseag airson Alba. Bho fhreumhan iriosal anns na h-Eileanan Siar tha an leabhar seo ag innse stiridh fear de Rionnagan Caillte ball-coise na h-Alba a choisicheadh a-steach do sgioba Celtic sam bith, fi s sgioba iomraiteach nan Lisbon Lions aig Jock Stein. ISBN: 978-1-907443-54-1 | English & Gaelic | Hardback | 52 illustrations | 25.00 | Available October 2013

How an Island Lost its People Improvement, Clearance and Resettlement on Lismore, 18301914 Robert Hay In 1830, Lismore was one of the granaries of the West Highlands, with every possible scrap of land producing bere barley or oats. The population had reached its peak of 1500. By 1910, numbers had dwindled to 400 and were still falling. The agricultural economy had been almost completely transformed to support sheep and cattle, with ploughland replaced by the now familiar green grassy landscape. This book explores the many, interrelated, factors that led to this haemorrhage of people: agricultural depression after the Napoleonic Wars; famine in 1838 and the 1840s; bankruptcy of traditional landlords; clearance by one entrepreneurial landlord; less labour required for livestock rearing; improved communications; the globalization of the economy, bringing cheaper food and undermining the work of craftsmen; and the employment opportunities elsewhere. Detailed examination of the fates of different groups tenants, skilled workmen, cottars and paupers shows that the most vulnerable were the landless but also the young of all classes. They were pushed and pulled into migration to make their living, principally in the expanding industries of the Central Belt of Scotland. Much of the story is told through the actions of two major players in the famine years: Allan MacDougall, the factor of Baleveolan estate, who worked to improve farm practices and encourage the better tenants; and James Cheyne, who took the opposite approach, clearing his land for sheepwalks. The island would have been emptier today had it not been for the actions of the Board of Agriculture for Scotland, who, in 1914, used their new powers to resettle thirteen families on two townships cleared by the Cheyne family in the 1840s and 1850s. ISBN: 978-1-907443-56-5 | Paperback | 10.00 | Available November 2013 14
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George Murray A Schoolteacher for St Kilda, 1886-87 Maureen Kerr George Murray was the school teacher on St Kilda from 1886 87 and throughout that time he kept a diary, which has, since then, been quoted in many publications. However, until now, we have not had any insight into the man himself. Now the St Kilda diary is reproduced in full from the original, just as it was written, and is a fascinating account of life in that unique and isolated archipelago. Here we have the full story of a courageous and honourable man. It includes an account taken from another diary he kept during the summer the year before going out to St Kilda, when he was a missionary and school teacher on North Uist in the Outer Hebrides. ISBN: 978-1-907443-55-8 | Paperback | 12.00 | Available November 2013 Love and Music Will Endure A Novel based on the life of Miri Mhr nan ran Liz Macrae Shaw Miri Mhr, poet and political campaigner was born into a crofting family in nineteenth century Skye. Her powerful voice was only unleashed in middle age when she was falsely accused of theft. She poured her rage and despair into songs about the plight of her fellow Highlanders who were being driven from their homes.Through force of character she overcame the barriers of background, class and gender to become their champion and inspiration. Finally she had to face up to the failures of the campaign for crofters rights and the disillusionment of the returning exile. So her life reflected the truth of the Gaelic proverb, which translates as When the world comes to an end only love and music will endure. ISBN: 978-1-907443-58-9 | Paperback | 10.00 | Available December 2013

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New Books from Other Publishers

Scotland No More? The Scots who left Scotland in the Twentieth Century Marjory Harper In this groundbreaking new history, Marjory Harper presents a vivid selection of the stories behind the statistics. Using untapped archival sources and oral testimony gathered in the course of her research and travels, she brings to life the individual experiences of men, women and children who settled or sojourned overseas in the last century. Until now the story of Scotlands 20th-century diaspora has remained largely untold. The wanderlust that surged to unprecedented levels in the nineteenth century showed no sign of waning after 1900, and as the sun set on the Victorian era, the haemorrhage of emigrants continued unabated. Many fulfilled their dreams and ambitions as their entreprenurial potential was unleashed in new environments around the globe. But for others the change of location brought difficulty and disappointment, and some were so overwhelmed by homesickness that they gave up and returned to their native soil. There is much to tell. Scotland No More? explores the causes and consequences of that persistent restlessness, which has left few Scots families untouched. Emigration was not always an easy option controversy, catharsis and contradiction are all part of this multi-stranded history. ISBN: 978-1908373359 | 256pp |Paperback | 14.99 | Available now from Luath Press Ltd

From the Great Blasket to America The Last Memoir by an Islander Michael Carney with Gerald Hayes Mike Carney, the oldest living native Blasket Islander, was born on The Great Blasket Island off the southwest of Ireland in 1920. Raised in that unique, isolated Irish-speaking community, Mike left in 1937 to seek a better future in Dublin and eventually in America. The death on the island of his younger brother without a priest or doctor in 1947 set off a chain of events that led to its evacuation. Mike played a pivotal role, personally lobbying amon de Valera to relocate the remaining Islanders. Joining the millions who emigrated

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from Ireland to the United States, Mike settled in Springfield, Massachusetts, with other former islanders. While taking advantage of opportunities offered by his adopted country, he never lost his love for the nation of his birth, saying its like loving both parents. This is the story of his life and his efforts to promote Irish culture in America, to preserve the memory of The Great Blasket, to respect roots left behind and to set down roots in a new land. Written as Mike approached the age of ninety-two, this memoir is probably the last of a long line of books written by Blasket Islanders, including Toms OCriomhthain, Michel OSulleabhin and Peig Sayers. A firstperson saga, recounting one mans life but relating the experience of many, it chronicles a lifetime devoted to family, community and legacy. All the while, he seems haunted by the immortal words of OCrohan: The likes of us will not be again. ISBN: 978-1848891654 | 224pp | 11.99 | Available now from The Collins Press

Lost in the Backwoods Scots and the North American Wilderness Jenni Calder This title shows how the American wilderness shaped Scottish experience, imagination and identity. How is the Scottish imagination shaped by its emigre experience with wilderness and the extreme? Drawing on journals, emigrant guides, memoirs, letters, poetry and fiction, this book examines patterns of survival, defeat, adaptation and response in North Americas harshest landscapes. Most Scots who crossed the Atlantic in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries encountered the practical, moral and cultural challenges of the wilderness, with its many tensions and contradictions. Jenni Calder explores the effect of these experiences on the Scots imagination. Associated with displacement and disappearance, the wilderness was also a source of adventure and redemption, of exploitation and spiritual regeneration, of freedom and restriction. An arena of greed, cruelty and cannibalism, of courage, generosity and mutual understanding, it brought out the best and the worst of humanity. Did the Scots who emigrated exchange one extreme for another, or did they discover a new idea of identity, freedom and landscape? The book draws on a wide range of Scottish, Canadian and US source material. It illuminates overlooked aspects of the Scottish diaspora experience. It extends the frontiers of Scottish history. It relates to current political, cultural and genealogical concerns. ISBN: 978-0748647385 | 256pp | 19.99 | Available now from Edinburgh University Press
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Recent and Future Events in Uist and Barra

On Saturday 15th June, a full boatload travelled from Castlebay on board the Boy James, bound for the Barra Head islands. We travelled west of Pabbay and Mingulay, passing some spectacular cliff scenery. One of the highlights of the trip was passing through the natural arch on the west of Mingulay, expertly navigated by Skipper Donald MacLeod, with what looked like millimetres to spare on either side of the vessel as he took us through the ninety degree turn in the rock to head for our final destination of Berneray, the southern outpost of the Outer Hebrides.We spent several wonderful hours ashore exploring the Stevenson lighthouse complex, some other structures and the birdlife, with plenty of puffin activity on the day.We are grateful to the NTS and their local Ranger Jonathan Grant who accompanied the group on the day and shared his knowledge of the islands and information on the NTSs ongoing Barra Head projects with us. Keep an eye out for the 2014 IBT programme if you didnt manage to get a place on this years excursion. Another Stevenson lighthouse was the destination of the last walk in the 2013 programme, this time to the 1857 light at Usinish Point on South Uist.There is a marked path on some of this route from Loch Skipport, but most of the trek is over open moorland until one comes on to a short stretch of surfaced track on the final approach to the lighthouse. Over the last couple of months, I have represented the Book Trust at two events. One was the Ceolas Symposium in Sgoil an Iochdair where the programme concentrated on the history of the Carnan community along the south shore of the South Ford in South Uist. Then a bit further afield across the Minch to the Island of Canna where I attended their Feis Channaidh at the beginning of August for two talks on islands and giving a helping hand with their Gaelic conversation classes. Try to keep Friday 20th September free in your diaries for our final event taking place at Sgoil Lionacleit (7.30pm) to look at the history of the remote community of Tristan da Cunha where, this year, they are celebrating the 50th anniversary of the resettlement of the island, following their two year absence when the island was evacuated following the volcanic eruption in 1961. We are now looking towards the 2014 programme of events and any ideas from members for talks, trips and excursions will be most welcome. Alasdair MacEachen 18
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ABOVE: An enthusiastic group at the Barra Head lighthouse

BELOW: The IBT book stall at the Askernish Golf Open in South Uist which was attended by Mrs Marybell MacIntyre. Thank you to Marybell for volunteering on behalf of IBT.

Recent Events in Lewis and Harris

Although on the whole its been a good summer here in the Hebrides, however any bad weather that has been about seems to have coincided with our boat trip days, resulting in us having to cancel both the Ronay trip in April and the Mealista Island trip in August. It was touch and go too for the South Pairc trip in July, as John Randall explains below MAKING THE BEST OF IT! this years boat trip to Southern Pairc All our boat trips are subject to favourable weather and this years venture to remote parts of Southern Pairc tested to the limits our ability to adjust to conditions! Last year, our planned excursion to former settlements such as Bgh Ciarach and Kenmore between Loch Claidh and Loch Seaforth had to be cancelled completely because of the heavy swell.This year, the weather forecast for the planned date Saturday 6th July was for strong winds and heavy rain during the morning and early afternoon, but improving markedly during the afternoon. So to give the trip the maximum chance of proceeding we adjusted the departure from Mraig on Loch Seaforth from 11am to 1pm. Some 20 of us duly assembled in the driving rain at the new pier at Mraig at 1pm, only to find that our boat kindly supplied by Eishken Estate had not arrived. Phone calls established that the boat, under the expert control of Chris MacRae, was still making its way round to Loch Seaforth through heavy seas. It eventually arrived at 2pm. It was still raining. Chris was clear that he could not venture back into the Minch until conditions improved, but that he was prepared re-schedule our itinerary so that we would first visit Kenmore, in relatively sheltered waters just across the loch, leaving a decision about getting to Bgh Ciarach and further afield until later. Seven hardy souls decided to go with this the rest literally abandoned ship. We had a good look round the former Estate house at Kenmore where Chriss father Tommy was born and the remains of the earlier cleared settlement with extensive cultivation beds. By the time we had to leave, the rain had stopped.We then headed up Loch Seaforth, seeing the remains of the old settlement of Aline, went round Seaforth Island, and then headed down Loch Seaforth. By this time, the sun was out in a blue sky, and the scenery spectacular as waterfalls cascaded over the cliffs on either side of the fjord.We had superb views of the former settlement of Nostar, the renovated cottage at Gerraidh Mhurchaidh with its rollercoaster system, and then both Rhenigidale and Molinginish as we headed out into the Minch. The swell had subsided and we went in close to the shore at Bgh Ciarach and Bgh Rheimseabhaidh location of the reputed murder by the inhabitants in the 18th century of Lewismen from Uig returning with timber from Gairloch see the Book Trusts publication Speak to Me, Catriona by Donald S. Murray. Because of the time, we went no further and returned up Loch Seaforth to Mraig. For those who stayed the course, this was a most memorable trip, made all the more enjoyable by the contrast with conditions just a few hours earlier. Our huge thanks to Chris and his crew for their skill and perseverance. WALK TO MOLINGINISH Fifteen hardy souls took part in the walk from Urgha in Harris to the former settlement of Molinginish on Saturday 18th May, starting off on the former postmans path to Rhenigidale.While it was mainly dry, there was low cloud and a very strong gusty wind which, while predominantly northeasterly, seemed to be in our face whatever direction we were walking in! On arrival, we received a most hospitable welcome from Simon Fraser, now the owner of the area,
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who gave us an informative talk about the history of Molinginish in the comfort of his wonderfully restored house, complete with box bed.We ate our lunch in the house before looking around at the rest of the old village, guided by Simon.This included the site of a long-house possibly from the original Norse settlement, and the former side-school. We are hoping to persuade Simon to write up the history of Molinginish, based on the extensive records he has collected, and his own personal knowledge.

TOP: Simon Fraser sits on the stairs inside his house at Molinginish. Note the box bed to his left. RIGHT: Simon leads the group away from the house towards the shore
photos courtesy of john groom

Dates for your Diary

We still have some events left before the end of 2013 hopefully youll be able to join us! Friday 20th September Sgoil Lionacleit, Benbecula, 7.30pm Alasdair MacEachen will give a talk entitled Celebrating the 50th Anniversary of the Re-settlement of Tristan da Cunha, the worlds most isolated island community Alasdair MacEachen looks back on an excursion to the South Atlantic. Friday 25th October - Angus MacLeod Memorial Lecture, Pairc School, Gravir, Lewis, 7.30pm - Kenny MacAskill MSP, Cabinet Secretary for Justice in the Scottish Government will speak about Opportunities of Independence for Island Communities. Friday 25th October Taigh Chearsabhagh, North Uist, 8pm - John Love will introduce A Look at Uist Wildlife. Tuesday 29th October - Castlebay Community School, Barra, 7.30 pm Alastair McIntosh will talk about his book Island Spirituality and Pilgrimage. Wednesday 30th October - Taigh Chearsabhagh, North Uist, 8pm - Alastair McIntosh will talk about his book, Island Spirituality and Pilgrimage. Tuesday 19th November An Lanntair, Stornoway, 7.30pm - Talk by Margaret Bennett entitled Bogs, Bothans, Bridges and Bagpipes Personal Reflections on my Fathers Life as a Musical Civil Engineer in Lewis and Newfoundland.

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- the islands book trust a registered scottish charity sc032682 Ravenspoint Kershader Isle of Lewis HS2 9QA
enquiries - tel 01851 820946 email: alayne@theislandsbooktrust.com book sales - tel: 01851 880737 email: sales@theislandsbooktrust.com