Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
june
2008
on how we look
WIN FILM KIT:
Prizes for beauty
product videos
in our Image
Lab activity.
See page 13.
instant messaging:
Several signals are being
sent by this Samoan man.
Are you looking at me?
Friend or foe? Artist or exhibitionist?
Charles Sykes/Rex Features
Face the facts: how to build a face and what it is used for 2–3
Bodytalk: all about the body and body shapes 4–5
Growth and form: how to build a human from scratch 6–7
Am I normal? Some people are out of the ordinary 8–9
Beauty spot: what is meant by beauty
and what it means for people 10–11
Real voices: personal views on dwarfism,
facial paralysis and cosmetic surgery 12–13
It’s the future: a light-hearted look at some
possible futures for humankind 14–15
The big picture 16
June 2008 | 1
FAce the facts
The face accommodates our main sensory organs – eyes, ears, nose, mouth. Yet the human face
is not just a scaffold for these organs. It has come to take on a role of its own, supporting social
communication between individuals. The face is a key part of our individual identity. We lavish
PULLING FACES: attention on our own faces and scour the faces of others
During head development, for pointers to their mood and personality.
cells (vehicles) migrate to
particular parts of the
growing face. When
they arrive, their Building a face
exact location
and fate depends Making a face depends on a remarkably complex
on local signals
(the parking process of cell migration and differentiation.
attendants). Mammalian development must be one of nature’s most
Marker proteins extraordinary processes. Early on, the embryo is tube-like
(cones) channel
the cells down with the beginnings of the spinal cord running along its
particular routes. back – the neural tube. At the front end of the
neural tube (the neural crest), a population
of stem cells multiply and swarm off in huge
numbers to distinct locations, forming
almost all of the skeletal, muscular and
neural tissues of the head.
The human head is thus precisely
sculpted by the mass migration,
multiplication and differentiation of cells.
How is such precision achieved?
A crucial point is whether an individual cell leaving
the neural crest already ‘knows’ what it is destined to
become, or whether its fate depends on where it finally
finds itself. So migrant workers might know they are
going to Australia, say, but do they already know
they will be teachers when they leave, or will they
decide what to do when they arrive?
The answer is probably a bit of both: a departing
cell is already committed to some extent but still
receives crucial input from the cells it encounters in
its final location. (See Big Picture Online for more.)
All images, unless otherwise indicated, are from months they recognise faces lowered the fear-conditioning
Wellcome Images. only of their own ethnic group. response. There are also plenty
The Wellcome Trust is a charity whose mission is to
So a face-recognition system of examples from psychology
foster and promote research with the aim of improving
may be built into the brain that priming – what we have
human and animal health (a charity registered in
England, no. 210183).
(hard-wired), but learning been exposed to in the past –
Reflecting the profound impact today’s research will hones its function as we grow. exerts a big influence on our
behaviour, even if we are not
have on society, the Wellcome Trust also seeks to raise In adults, unfamiliar ‘other-
awareness of the medical, ethical and social aware of it.
Over time, we become adept group’ faces lead to stronger
implications of research and promote dialogue
at distinguishing face types ‘fear-conditioning’ responses Understanding some of the
between scientists, the public and policy makers.
we see regularly and less in the brain. What’s more, this factors that influence our
© The trustee of the Wellcome Trust 2008.
good at deciphering faces appears to be an automated behaviour can help us to
This is an open access publication and, with the of other ethnic groups. (subconscious) response. overcome innate constraints
exception of images and illustrations, the content
There is a foundation to the This may be an ancient defence or prejudices, for socially
may unless otherwise stated be reproduced free
white European cliché that mechanism – strangers are desirable ends. And they can
of charge in any format or medium, subject to the
people from the Far East a potential source of danger. help us appreciate why, for
following conditions: content must be reproduced
‘all look the same to me’ – example, racial stereotyping
accurately; content must not be used in a misleading So is interethnic mistrust an
but Chinese people will is so damaging.
context; the Wellcome Trust must be attributed as the inevitable consequence of our
original author and the title of the document specified find it just as difficult to tell brain’s survival instincts?
in the attribution. Caucasians apart.
MC-4102.2/10K/06–2008/BC
2 | big picture 8
Paul Ekman
Read my face Who are you?
Some people are less able
to identify or interpret facial
expressions.
People with an autistic spectrum
condition are less able to read Photos taken in New Guinea in 1967,
on a trip to test Darwin’s idea that
expressions, part of a deficit in theory facial emotions were universal.
of mind – understanding what others The man, of the island’s Fore people, was
are thinking. In neuropsychiatric asked to show how he would look if he
(from left) learned that his child had died,
disorders such as schizophrenia, met friends for the first time that day, saw
individuals may see bystanders as a dead pig in the road, or was about to fight
more threatening than they really are. with someone.
Similarly, people with social phobia
tend to interpret neutral expressions Young children are not good at
as negative. picking up subtle social cues from
There have also been suggestions faces. They improve during school
that people prone to antisocial years, with a small drop during
behaviour, particularly violence adolescence as the brain undergoes
against others, are less able to major rewiring. There are hints that
identify or react appropriately to girls are better at recognition (and
negative emotions in faces. In most social skills more generally) than boys,
Expressions are created by the action of specific muscles people, exposure to an expression but sex differences are relatively small.
in the face. These were tested by the French doctor Duchenne of fear or unhappiness will trigger Damage to the brain – due to injury
de Boulogne, who in the 19th century used electric currents
to stimulate muscles and re-create particular expressions (top).
feelings of pity; someone with or conditions such as Huntington’s
Similar approaches have also been taken by artists (bottom). psychopathy, though, may simply disease – can also affect recognition.
The Varieties of Human Facial Expression, 12-bit version by Arthur Elsenaar not recognise the negative emotion The ability also seems to decline
and Remko Scha, videography by Josephine Jasperse
and their behaviour will not be with age. So one reason why some
influenced to the same degree. patients or elderly people might
The face is supposedly the window into the
This may even be true of younger become more difficult is because
soul. Certainly, it can provide a way to assess
people (or unsympathetic bosses) they are less able to recognise how
someone’s internal state.
who show callous or cruel behaviour. others are feeling.
There are seven universally recognised emotions shown
through facial expressions: fear, anger, surprise, contempt,
disgust, happiness and sadness. This universality was
noted by Charles Darwin, among others.
Expressions depend on the characteristic arrangement
Faces on the brain
of facial features, which can be ‘read’ by observers, The brain has specific areas
Peter Thompson
though some are easier to identify than others (surprise devoted to the face.
and fear are often hard to tell apart). Face-reading skills When we see a face we can judge
appear very early. Even seven-month-old infants pay almost immediately sex, age and
more attention to fearful faces. ethnic origins, and tell to some extent
In fact, fear appears to be a very powerful expression. what someone is thinking and what
We recognise fear in someone’s face even before we have he or she is like. We can tell if it is
identified who that person is, and even subconscious someone we have seen before, even
detection of fearful faces can profoundly influence our if they have aged, changed hairstyle
behaviour, much more so than subconscious detection of or are wearing new glasses.
other emotions. Fear processing is associated with activity This ability depends mainly on
in the amygdala, a key structure in the ‘emotional brain’. specific face-recognition systems
The importance of facial expressions reflects the in the brain.
importance of social communication to humans. A dramatic illustration of this
Our success as a species has depended on our ability specificity comes from people who The ‘Thatcher Effect’ (so-called because it
was first shown using pictures of the former
to cooperate and act together. A key aspect of our cannot recognise faces, a condition Prime Minister) illustrates how the brain
cognitive powers is our ability to judge what others known as prosopagnosia. The term treats faces as ‘special’. Manipulation of an
are thinking and hence how they might act. was coined by a German physician upside-down face is much less noticeable
than the same change made to a correctly
in World War II who studied patients oriented face.
Sipa Press/Rex Features
June 2008 | 3
Bodytalk Our bodies come in all shapes and sizes. We can thank forces as diverse as
FAST
FACT
6’1”
The average
our evolutionary history, our genes, our upbringing and our environment for adult male
height in The
our body shape. Increasingly, in modern society these factors are combining Netherlands,
to drive up our weight. making Dutch
men the world’s
How, though, do we come to know where our body ends and the outside world begins? How can tallest.
we manage to move parts of it so precisely? What is going on when we don’t feel well ‘in ourselves’?
The brain is constantly acquiring information from the body, creating a mental representation of the
body and its state of health.
Andres Peiro Palmer/iStockphoto
Human shape
What decides our physical form?
Our ‘natural’ size is governed by several factors, including our
genetic make-up. We are beginning to find out about some
of these genes (see page 6).
A crucial phase in our development is our time in the
womb. Our mother’s diet and health will impact on our
birthweight. With food relatively plentiful (in developed
countries), small babies tend to go through ‘catch-up’
growth in infancy. Although this may have benefits when
young, it appears to store up problems in later life –
increasing the risk of cardiovascular and other metabolic
GRUMPY: Does the way we stand or diseases – as small babies may be born ‘preprogrammed’
walk say anything about us? Slumped
shoulders signal unhappiness – ‘heads
for a life of low nutrition.
go down’ when things are not going well Growth of the fetus also depends on an interplay between
on the games pitch. Body language is the genes inherited from the mother and those from the father
also alive and well in the animal world,
where signs of submission are signalled
– the paternal genes acting to increase fetus size, the mother’s
through particular body postures. trying to limit fetal growth (see Big Picture on Sex and Gender).
Peeter Viisimaa/iStockphoto
Taller, bigger, fatter?
Leslie Banks/iStockphoto
A moving story
Bipedalism, walking on two feet, is one of the a symptom of some inherited conditions and can
defining features of humans. The last common result from infections such as malaria.
Sergio Pérez/Flickr
ancestor of chimpanzees and humans probably A Turkish researcher has recently described
had a quadrupedal gait, walking on its knuckles an extended family that walks on all fours in a
as chimpanzees do now. Walking upright would ‘bear crawl’.
have had advantages, as it is more energy-efficient Controversially, he has suggested that
and would have permitted foraging farther afield. people with ‘Unertan syndrome’ illustrate a step HAREM SCARE’EM? Paranthropus
It has its disadvantages, though, particularly in the backwards in evolution towards a more primitive robustus, which lived around 2 million
years ago, showed greater sexual
strains it imposes on the backbone, which may be gait. The more accepted view is that family dimorphism than modern humans.
why back complaints are now so common. members have difficulty balancing on two legs Males were around 20 per cent
Bipedalism also calls for good balance and and tend to stand rather than crawl when infants. bigger than females. Levels of sexual
dimorphism seem to depend on how
coordination. Some forms of brain damage can Unlike our presumed ancestor, family members much males contribute to child rearing.
lead to difficulties with locomotion (ataxia). This is do not use their knuckles to walk on. See Big Picture Online for more.
4 | big picture 8
Muscles and skeleton Jumping to conclusions
Our physical form is governed
Nikolay Mamluke/iStockphoto
Eric Simard/iStockphoto
iStockphoto
From Van Hul W et al. Am J Hum Genet 1998;2:391–9. © 1998
American Society of Human Genetics, published by Elsevier Inc.
Anthea Sieveking
June 2008 | 5
Growth
Sonic hedgehog is a crucial gene for the development of our hands and feet (and our brains). So why does
it have such a silly name? Enter the bizarre world of Sasquatch, baboon and cheap date at Big Picture Online…
on the web
www.wellcome.ac.uk/bigpicture/howwelook
6 | big picture 8
Developmental disorders NEW GENES
One-third of all genetic disorders affect the head and face. A surge of discoveries has
Occasionally, the finely choreographed pathway from egg to adult goes awry. If a mutation affects revealed insight into the genes
a developmentally important gene, the course of development is changed. underlying physical appearance.
There are many thousands of genetic disorders that affect physical or intellectual development Blue eyes:
Christoph Ermel/iStockphoto
or both. Many give rise to distinct features, often involving the face. Specialist clinicians can often All present-
identify these conditions on the basis of a child’s appearance as well as his or her developmental day cases may
and behavioural features. derive from a
single genetic
change that occurred 6–10 000
Down syndrome:
One of the most common years ago, during the Stone Age.
genetic disorders. It is Redhead: People with
caused by an additional
two inactive alleles of the
copy of chromosome
21, and it has proved melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R)
difficult to work out exactly gene have the classic ‘Celtic’ red
which genes on this hair and pale skin appearance.
chromosome underlie
Hair:
Umbar Shakir/iStockphoto
which symptoms. Treacher Collins syndrome: Characterised by changes
to the face, sometimes extensive. Mutations disrupt The EDAR gene
bone formation during embryogenesis. People with is associated
Treacher Collins syndrome often face discrimination, with hair
Williams–Bueren as they are assumed to be of low intelligence – in fact, thickness
syndrome: Children often their cognitive abilities are not reduced. in Asian
have heart problems
and learning difficulties, populations.
but also a distinctive, The thick-hair variant appeared
engaging personality. The after ancestral Asian and
condition is often due to European populations split.
loss of several genes on
chromosome 7. Skin colour: At least eight genes
affect melanin production and
hence skin colour. Light skin
is probably an adaptation to life
Moebius syndrome:
at higher latitudes.
Marfan syndrome: A form of facial paralysis that leaves people unable
Caused by mutations to move many of their facial muscles. This leaves them
affecting an extracellular with a permanent ‘deadpan’ expression and an inability For more on the genes
matrix protein. Those to express emotions through the face. The genetic controlling height, weight
affected tend to be very cause of Moebius syndrome remains unclear, and some and skin colour (and
tall with long limbs; they cases have environmental causes. (See Big Picture
earwax consistency)
commonly have eye and Online for more.)
heart problems. see Big Picture Online. on the web
www.wellcome.ac.uk/
bigpicture/howwelook
Freak show
The 19th century was the golden age of the ‘freak
show’, where people with unusual physical forms –
such as conjoined twins, giants and dwarves, or
people who had hypertrichosis (excess face and
body hair) and ichthyosis (elephant-like skin) – were
displayed in the name of entertainment.
Most popular in the USA, and run by entrepreneurs
such as P T Barnum, freak shows survived into the early
decades of the 20th century, despite a growing outcry
that they insulted the dignity of the people on display.
Later, though, some people have seen their
abnormalities as a route to economic survival,
developing their own acts or joining circuses. Examples
include Otis Jordan (Frog Boy), Grady Stiles (Lobster
Boy) and Frank Lentini, the three-legged man. Others
have used their unusual appearance in an artistic
context or to challenge viewers.
While most of us find the idea of freak shows distasteful, Joseph Merrick, the Elephant Man,
DOUBLE-ACT: Chang and Eng,
the popularity of documentaries such as The Boy made a living as a sideshow exhibit until
the original ‘Siamese twins’. They
they were outlawed in 1886. A sensitive
Whose Skin Fell Off is testimony to our continued were exhibited during the early
and intelligent figure, he later became
fascination with ‘otherness’. While such shows, at their 1800s, later going into business
a noted society figure before his
on their own. They married sisters
best, emphasise the common humanity of people born early death aged 27. It is likely that he
and eventually had 22 children
‘different’, it is a thin line between informative TV and suffered from Proteus syndrome, which
between them. They died on the
causes an overgrowth of skin, bone and
the exploitation seen in former times. same day in 1874.
other tissues.
June 2008 | 7
Am I normal?
Humans don’t differ greatly. Physical traits typically follow a normal distribution –
a few people at the extremes, most in the middle.
But the middle seems to be a place of safety – those at the extremes inspire
curiosity and even animosity. Even a minor difference may be picked up on and
mocked. Other extremes, though, may be looked upon with admiration or envy.
Jacob Wackerhausen/iStockphoto
So perhaps it is not surprising that our physical appearance is so important
to us – sometimes harmfully so. We seek ways to adapt our appearance,
to emphasise who we really are or to try to be the person we wish to be.
8 | big picture 8
FAST FACT Beyond his and hers
£497m
Disorderly behaviour
Eating disorders are on the increase. Is our
obsession with appearance to blame?
In 2006/07 more than 1500 people were admitted to
hospital with anorexia or bulimia nervosa. Eating
disorders are becoming more common in women and men.
What’s going on? Are ‘size zero’ models and celebrities
setting impossibly high standards? Or are the stresses
of growing up to blame? Sometimes biological sex does basis. For example, a region of the
Eating disorders are complex behavioural conditions not match ‘brain sex’. brain known as the bed nucleus of
and are being studied in a number of ways. Psychological Some people have an overpowering the stria terminalis differs in size in
studies, for example, suggest that people with eating feeling, often from childhood men and women. A study of male-
disorders tend to overestimate their weight. In addition, onwards, that they have been born to-female transsexuals found that
being exposed to an environment that values thinness in a body of the wrong physical sex. the numbers of neurons in this region
and encourages dieting appears to increase the risk of They may want to change their body were typical of females.
developing an eating disorder. to fit their inner ‘gender identity’.
But eating disorders are not simply about wanting to be (While sex refers to biology and A third way?
thinner. They may be a symptom of young people’s desire anatomy, gender refers to an Some people argue that the West’s
to exert control over their lives. Perfectionism and low internal sense of being masculine rigid two-gender system – which
self-esteem are common in eating disorders. These tend or feminine.) insists that every individual be
to pre-date the eating disorder, although are also often The mismatch between biological categorised as either a man or a
exaggerated by it. There is some evidence that people with sex and gender identity can create woman – fails to take account of a
anorexia nervosa have obsessive–compulsive tendencies deep unhappiness, anxiety wider spectrum of gender identities.
and that people with bulimia nervosa are more impulsive. and psychological pain (gender There are societies that include
These pre-existing behavioural traits may make some dysphoria). As a result, mental multiple gender categories, such
children particularly vulnerable. They may reflect variation health problems are common among as the so-called two-spirit people
in brain chemistry, particularly in the dopamine pathways untreated transgender people. in native American tribes. On the
and serotonin system, a key factor in the regulation of The answer, for many (although by Indian subcontinent, an estimated
mood. Hormonal changes at puberty or social stresses at no means all) transgender people, is 5–6 million people are classified as
adolescence may be the triggers that promote disordered to change their physical sex through hijra or ‘eunuchs’ (although they have
eating. The fairly high heritability of eating disorders also surgery and/or hormone replacement rarely undergone genital surgery).
suggests biological factors are at work. therapy – sex reassignment therapy/ Hijra are usually biologically male or
Psychological treatments have been developed surgery. Other transsexuals choose intersex and dress as females but do
to address eating disorders. In particular, cognitive to live in their gender role and dress not see themselves as male or female.
behavioural therapy has been shown to be effective for and act as the man or woman they Indian passports now include three
bulimia nervosa and binge eating disorder. However, more wish to be. categories – male, female and eunuch.
effective treatments are needed for people with eating Although surgery and hormone In some Polynesian societies,
disorders, especially anorexia nervosa. There is also the treatment are accepted medical fa’afafine are likewise considered
potential to prevent cases by reducing the environmental interventions, individuals undergo to be a ‘third gender’. They are
triggers, such as excessive focus on dieting. a period of counselling before biologically male, but dress and
treatment starts. behave in a manner considered
body hate The origins of transsexuality are typically female. Kathoeys (‘ladyboys’)
Some people hate the way they look, a feeling so unclear, but it may have a biological of Thailand fall into a similar category.
extreme that it dominates their thinking – leading to
body dysmorphic disorder (BDD). This disorder is
better treated with cognitive behavioural therapy than TATTOO ME
cosmetic surgery. But what about people The modern era of tattooing arose from James Cook’s
whose unhappiness stems from their 18th-century voyages to the Pacific – hence its
belief that a limb is not part of them and popular association with sailors. Surprisingly,
they want it amputated? Read about a it also caught on with royalty and the social elite
(Queen Victoria was rumoured to have a tattoo
doctor’s dilemma at Big Picture Online. Queen Vic: Royalty
in an ‘intimate location’). Only later did it become
were once big fans
associated with rebellion and counter-culture.
www.wellcome.ac.uk/ Its popularity has increased recently, following its
of tattooing.
on the web
bigpicture/howwelook adoption by celebrities such as David Beckham.
June 2008 | 9
beauty SPOT
Philosophers and artists have argued for centuries about what constitutes
FAST
FACT
A study of women of
the Sahrawi culture
in Morocco found
beauty. Is it an innate property of an object or person or does it depend solely that more than 90
per cent of women
on the mind of the observer? were trying to put
on weight, using
Research has shown that beauty can to a large degree be measured objectively, though notions of personal strategies ranging
beauty do vary by culture and period. from special meals
There has been a long tradition of associating beauty with good and ugliness with evil. Even now, being to steroid use.
attractive can give us a head start in life and being ‘different’ can make life difficult.
From De Dio C et al. PLoS ONE 2007;2(11):e1201.
Hips do lie
We do seem to find slim figures appealing –
though ratios seem to be more important.
And it depends whether we are hungry or not.
In less politically correct times, women were often
described in terms of their ‘vital statistics’ – chest, waist
and hip measurements in inches.
Ironically, the strongest candidate ‘beauty factor’ in
women is an echo of those vital statistics. Many studies
have found that a waist-to-hip ratio of around 0.7 is
judged most attractive. This is independent of overall size:
both Twiggy and Marilyn Monroe had ratios of 0.7.
First suggested in the 1990s, the waist-to-hip ratio
theory has been interpreted in an evolutionary context.
Women with this shape tend to be healthier and more
Mathematical analyses can help identify features associated with beauty. The proportions
fertile, so could be seen as better mates.
of the classical sculpture of Doryphoros by Polykleitos (centre) match a well-known ratio.
When this ratio is altered, extending the abdomen (left) or the legs (right), the resulting Sex discrimination
physique is generally rated as ugly. Interestingly, objective analysis of body form and
subjective assessments of beauty seem to involve distinct areas of the brain.
Overall, women tend to be less swayed by men’s
physical appearance, though body mass index,
waist-to-hip and, in particular, waist-to-chest ratio
‘Darling, you’re so average…’ influence perceived male attractiveness. A recent study
of choices in speed dating found that women were more
The key to beauty? Symmetry and ‘averageness’. discriminating than men (who tended to select partners
‘Beauty is in the eye of the beholder’, as the saying goes. simply on physical appearance), going for overall
But not entirely. We mostly tend to agree who is attractive desirability as a mate. This is also consistent with
and who is not. So are there objective measures of an evolutionary explanation.
human beauty? Or biological reasons why certain faces Nonetheless, social and cultural factors will influence
are seen as attractive? these preferences. For example, it appears that low
For a long time, symmetry has been thought to be socioeconomic status and even hunger increases the
important to beauty. This was first noticed in scorpion perceived attractiveness of larger people. This may be
flies: those with the most symmetrical wings were most why some non-Western cultures are more likely to see
MANCHESTER successful in mating. In studies on people, those with larger sizes as attractive.
UNITED: An average the most symmetrical facial and bodily features were
female Mancunian from
Nowgen’s ‘Faces of rated the most attractive.
Manchester’ project. The reasoning has been that symmetry is an indicator
of good genes and good health. All kinds of stresses will
tend to break symmetry, so maintaining symmetry is evidence of high resilience
– very attractive to a prospective mate. We do not consciously assess symmetry
– it seems to be hard-wired into our brains.
Another feature thought to correlate with beauty is averageness. When faces
are blended to create an average, it is generally rated more attractive than the
individual faces from which it is composed.
However, if just attractive faces are morphed, then compared with an
unselected average, features specific to facial attractiveness emerge. If these
are exaggerated, the composite is considered to be even more attractive –
‘better than average’.
The fact that a computer can be taught to recognise attractiveness in human
faces reasonably well indicates that beauty is, to at least some extent, an WAIST AWAY: Extreme waist-to-hip ratios were fashionable
in the 18th century, as this satirical etching illustrates.
objective measure.
10 | big picture 8
Jonathan Hordle/Rex Features
© Barbara Watton/epa/Corbis
Colour me bad
Skin colour fashions come and go,
but both darkening and lightening
pose a threat to health.
Skin colour varies dramatically between
humans, from almost black to almost white.
It is determined by a pigment in the skin
called melanin (see page 7).
Until the last century, in Europe and Asia,
lighter skin was perceived to be beautiful.
The Romans and Greeks used lead paints
and chalks to whiten their skin, as did people
in Elizabethan England. The Japanese have
idealised ‘bihaku’ (beautiful white) skin for a tan now became an emblem of the rich and Lighten up
centuries: women protected themselves fashionable, who could afford holidays in the Meanwhile, many women with African
from the sun with parasols, scrubbed their sun. Sunbathing was also promoted as part ancestry are aiming to lighten their skin. Lotions
skin with ‘nuka’ (rice hulls) or ground pearl of a ‘healthy lifestyle’ in the interwar years, to developed for medical use have been popular,
from seashells into powder for swallowing counter diseases such as TB and rickets. but many contain a bleaching chemical
to whiten their skin. With the health risks of sun exposure called hydroxyquinone – now banned in the
White skin was viewed as a symbol now well known – or perhaps it is the loss UK (though still obtainable illegally).
of innocence and purity – and more of social exclusivity – the desirability of a Perhaps more alarmingly, use of skin-
importantly of wealth, education and status. rich tan may now be on the decline. Even lightening products by women is common
Peasants and farmers worked outside and so, people in the UK spent £40 million on in sub-Saharan Africa. Studies in Dakar,
grew dark under the sun, while the wealthy tanning products and sunbed sessions in Senegal, for example, suggest at least a third
lived indoors, protected from its rays. 2005, and half the adult population say they of women (possibly much higher) are using
In 1920, Coco Chanel sported the first feel healthier with a tan. Cancer Research hydroxyquinone, steroids or other chemicals.
tan, having stayed out too long on a yacht in UK estimates that sunbed use can double In many countries, use of skin-lightening
the Mediterranean, and a new fashion trend the risk of skin cancer and causes about agents, including mercury-rich soaps, is a
was started. Rather than signifying poverty, 100 deaths a year. significant public health problem.
Looking good
Alexander Hafemann/iStockphoto
Hottentot Venus
Is our concern about our Born in 1789 in South Africa’s Cape Colony,
Saartje Baartman was brought to England in
appearance mere vanity –
1810 by a British Army Medical Officer, who saw
or does beauty confer social
an opportunity to make money by putting her on
advantages? show, exploiting her distinctive, large buttocks,
We may feel that looks don’t matter typical of Khoisan people. The ‘Hottentot Venus’
in most walks of life, but the evidence became an instant celebrity. Pored over
suggests otherwise. by the public and physicians alike, her
Being tall, for example, seems indignities did not end with her death:
to be an advantage. Short people her skeleton, preserved genitals and
tend to get paid less and short men brain were displayed in Paris’s Musée de
(but tall women) are less likely to marry l’Homme until 1974. In 2002, her remains
and have children. This may reflect were returned to South Africa, at the
request of Nelson Mandela.
direct discrimination or the impact
of bullying (small children are more The Hottentot Venus is a potent
likely to be bullied) on self-esteem So are good lookers simply better symbol of Europe’s lurid fascination
or the result of a small correlation than the rest of us? There is some with Africa and womanhood.
She was dressed provocatively,
between height and intelligence evidence that attractiveness is linked
the personification of lust and
(probably linked to better nutrition). to intelligence but social factors are
powerful, primeval emotion. She
As for good looks, workers of likely to be highly influential. Attractive also stands as testimony to the
above-average beauty earn about 10 children are more popular and better appalling mistreatment of Africa
to 15 per cent more than workers of adjusted, and teachers give attractive and Africans.
below-average beauty (though figures children higher marks, as well as
In her day, Saartje Baartman would
differ markedly between countries). having higher expectations of them.
not have been seen as unusual. Today,
Other research suggests attractive Attractive adults tend to have higher a large posterior may be perceived as
patients receive more personalised self-esteem and self-confidence. a celebration of African womanhood – in
care from their doctors, and good- And thanks to the ‘halo effect’, Ivory Coast, the hit song ‘Bobaraba’ (‘big
looking criminals receive lighter people judged highly in one area bottom’) has swept the nation. Even Ivory
sentences than their less attractive – attractiveness – are also rated Coast footballers adopted the dance
peers. In a study of Finnish elections, positively in other ways, even without during goal celebrations during the
attractive candidates were more likely any evidence of competence in African Cup of Nations.
to be successful. that area.
June 2008 | 11
REAL VOICES
What is it like to be ‘different’, physically? Or to want to change your appearance? How do
other people’s reactions affect the way we behave? Should we just make the most of what
we are or think about changing ourselves to enhance our appearance? Three women with
contrasting circumstances put forward their point of view.
Henrietta Spalding, of the charity Nichola Dean, a researcher for the BBC, has
Changing Faces, has a facial achondroplasia, a form of dwarfism.
paralysis condition.
How does your
What are the symptoms condition affect
of your condition? your life?
I have Moebius syndrome. It’s caused by a lack of full I’ve got achondroplasia,
development of cranial nerves, causing paralysis of the face which is a form of dwarfism or
and eye muscles. restricted growth. We’re quite
My eyes don’t close, and they don’t move from side to side. happy with the term ‘dwarf’.
That means I have to move my head to read and I can’t see I’m a lot shorter than average:
how fast a car is coming when I cross the road. But the body is 4 feet 2 inches.
amazing, I’ve developed the most acute hearing, and I can tell I’ve got the same life as
how far away a car is by listening to it. everyone else, but I can’t
The most prominent feature is paralysis of the face: we have reach everything. For
no expression, and have difficulty eating and speaking (my lips example, I’ve just moved into
don’t close so there are sounds I can’t make). a new home, and everything
in the kitchen is too high. We need car-pedal
What situations do you find most difficult? extensions to drive. And cashpoints can be awkward.
None. My teenage years were harder. At school some people So there’s a practical impact. We have to adapt to the world,
weren’t informed and had unhelpful behaviours. I wasn’t bullied, it’s not the other way round.
but I was left out. But when I got to university I was taken for who
I am, I worked in the union bar and had a great time. What situations do you find most difficult?
People staring, sometimes even pointing. Some people find
How do you find people react to you now? it funny, I still get shocked by that. It’s partly the fault of the
I’m very privileged, I have a huge set of friends and I meet media, stereotyping dwarves. And partly people who aren’t
people on a daily basis, through work and my interests. But I happy with themselves, using playground tactics.
do have to make a bit of an effort to put people at their ease. That is getting better though, and there’s no point getting
I’m keen they see the real Henrietta Spalding, the person I am. angry. For every one person doing it, there are 100 that aren’t.
How do you wish they would react? How do you find people react to you now?
I’ve been to university, I work at the BBC. I never came across
As they do.
any discrimination in those worlds. As long as I can do the job,
my height isn’t a problem. I can sense if someone wants to ask
How do you think society treats people about it, and tend to mention it first.
‘out of the ordinary’?
People might be curious, or uncomfortable, or unsure. We live How do you wish they would react?
in a world where people feel easier being similar. People don’t I wish they wouldn’t react. I’d love there to be a time when my
know how they’re supposed to react to people who look a bit kids can go anywhere and no one reacts. Racism has moved
different: they might be uninformed or ill-equipped. They’re not on, no one falls silent and stares if they see an Asian or African
often cruel, just the occasional person. person. I hope it’s the same with dwarfism in 20 years’ time.
Do you think physical appearance has too Have you or would you consider treatment?
No, never. The leg straightening was due to pain. I disagree
much significance in modern society? with leg lengthening. I’m happy with who I am, I’m pro-
Yes I think it does. It’s unfortunate. The definition of what’s
difference. We can’t all look like everyone else. People should
acceptable has become more and more narrow. The impact on
be different.
people’s lives can be huge. It doesn’t need to be that way.
12 | big picture 8
What situations do you How do you wish
find most difficult? they would react?
HS At school some people weren’t informed ND I wish they wouldn’t
and had unhelpful behaviours. I wasn’t react. I’d love there to be
bullied, but I was left out. But when I got to a time when my kids can
university I was taken for who I am, I worked go anywhere and no
in the union bar and had a great time. one reacts.
Jan Upfold, a market researcher, has How do you feel about the results?
undergone cosmetic surgery on several Very happy. The vast majority of people
occasions. who have facelifts want to look young.
But my main criterion is just to look
What have you had done? better. I look normal. Attractive,
I had a full facelift from the chin upwards, but ordinary.
including liposuction under the chin People talk about a facelift making you
to redefine my jawline. I had my jowls look ‘ten years younger’. Well, on a good
lifted and tucked behind my ears, and day, in reality, I only look five years younger.
the side of my face tucked back in You might think I was in my early 50s, when
front of my ears. Skin from my brow I’m nearly 58. If you want to look younger
was pulled up and tucked under my hairline than that, you end up with the obviously lifted
to remove my frown lines. face, the horror stories.
Then I had fat taken from my belly and injected into the
mannequin (nose-to-mouth) lines on my face and above my top What impact have the procedures had
lip, to fill out the fine lines there. And I had Botox for my smile and
on your life?
frown lines. I will have to have the Botox and infills redone, for
It cost a lot of money, around £16 000 all together. Since this
maintenance, every six months or so.
surgery, we’ve had no major fantastic foreign holidays. It’s a
choice, what you spend your money on. Some people choose a
What made you want to have this done? BMW. I chose my face.
In my profession – I work as a market research interviewer – as My friends and lifestyle haven’t changed. A facelift doesn’t
you get older, as a woman, your opinion is less valued. Once change your life. Feeling confident about yourself usually does.
you’re 50 you become a bit invisible. The facelift makes me more
marketable, employable, more worthwhile professionally.
It doesn’t relate to wanting to get a man. I’m very happily Do you think too much emphasis is placed
married, and my husband loves the results. He likes showing on appearance these days?
me off to his friends. Yes, on appearance and stereotype. Young people have to wear
the designated outfit or they’re not cool. Certainly in the young it’s
unhealthy. That’s where it starts.
Image Lab
Lee Pettet/iStockphoto
June 2008 | 13
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HOw we look
the big picture
• Human development depends on carefully coordinated control • UK society is increasingly based on the principle that external
of gene activity. appearance is unimportant, and should not be the basis of any
form of discrimination against particular individuals or groups.
• If mutations or chemicals disturb this developmental programme,
people may show distinctive physical and mental traits. • Some objective measures of beauty have been identified,
including degree of facial symmetry.
• The genetic basis of a number of physical traits, such as height,
weight and skin colour, is beginning to be determined. • Waist-to-hip ratio seems to be associated with perceptions
of attractiveness in women.
• As well as being the site of our main sensory organs, the face
is also important in social communication. • An evolutionary explanation is that features seen as attractive
may provide insight into genetic quality.
• The brain has special areas devoted to the face, and a range
of information is drawn from faces. • Historically, beauty has tended to be associated with virtue. This
has often led to stigmatisation of people who do not conform to
• Inferences are drawn from faces very quickly and often a society’s notions of attractiveness.
automatically (but not always accurately).
• Throughout recorded time, people have attempted to modify their
• Thanks to better nutrition, humans have been getting taller over appearance, for a variety of reasons.
recent centuries.
• Traits seen as desirable change according to social trends –
• With energy intake now often exceeding energy usage, many generally, favoured traits are associated with high social status.
populations are facing soaring rates of obesity.
• Cosmetic surgery is becoming increasingly popular in the UK.
• People of unusual appearance have been seen as curiosities
for many centuries. • Advances in biomedical engineering for tissue and organ repair
may offer new ways for people to alter their appearance.
• Most attempts to link particular physical features with character
or personality have failed.