CHAPTER

FIVE

THE EARLY MIDDLE AGES

c. 300 1300

CHAPTER FIVE

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THE EARLY MIDDLE AGES c. 300 - 1300

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

Copyright 2010 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

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ISBN: 978-1-56367-806-6 GST R 133004424

CHAPTER FIVE

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2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

By the 6th Century AD, the Byzantine Empire had gained control over a large part of the of the Mediterranean world.

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Upper class men and women of the 6th Century Byzantine Empire each wore a tunic and a cloak called a paludamentum. A large embroidered square at the front, called a tablion proclaimed their high status.

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By the 11thCentury, influences from eastern decorative art had transformed Byzantine clothing, adding extensive decoration to fabrics that were often made of luxurious silk manufactured and traded by the Byzantines.

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As a center of wealth and power, the Byzantine Empire influenced styles throughout Europe. Royalty adopted Byzantine type of ornamentation for their clothing and bought their silks.

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Basic elements of dress in Europe during the Dark Ages combined Roman elements, such as the tunic, and Barbarian components, such as leg wrappings.

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Costume of royalty during the time of Charlemagne and after was ornamented in the Byzantine style, while commoners wore sturdy working clothes.

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From 800 to 1000, women wore layered tunics.

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Throughout the Middle Ages, the layers of clothing worn by men consisted of linen undergarments called braies, from which the modern term breeches derives.

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A linen undershirt, sometimes called a chemise, was also used. Laborers often removed the shirt and worked in their braies alone.

Click image to apply chemise

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An undertunic was worn over the braies and shirt. For men of importance, this garment was full length. For laborers it ended below the knee.

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An outertunic was worn, which might allow the undertunic to show at the sleeve and skirt hems.
Click image to apply outertunic

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The layers of womens dress were similar, except that they did not wear braies, and their chemises were longer than those of men.

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By the 12th Century garments worn by upper class mens and womens tunics fit the body more closely. Womens sleeves often hung down almost to the ground.

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The bliaut, a 12th Century garment worn by upperclass men and women, was more complex in cut and fit than earlier garments.

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By the Early 13th Century, styles were loosely fitted.

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Throughout the Early Middle Ages the most common outdoor garment was a cape or cloak, also called a mantle.

Some had an opening for the head Others closed at the center front or side

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More elaborate outdoor garments appeared in the 13th century

Garnache Herigaut, also called Gardecorps

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Young unmarried women wore their hair uncovered. Married women covered their hair. Hair coverings were relatively simple, often a veil with a fillet, or band, placed over it.

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Men were sometimes bearded, but soldiers were usually cleanshaven probably because beards were uncomfortable under helmets.

A coif was the most frequently used head covering for common men

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he increasing variety of garments and styles is reflected in a proliferation of terminology. From a simple wrapped garment like a modern cape, various garments for outdoor wear developed, going by names such as mantle, cape, chaperone, garnache, herigaut, gardecorps.
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Fashion changes gradually grew more rapid, so that by the beginning of the 14th Century, styles persisted for only part of the century.

9th Century

9th - 11th Century

9th - 11th Century

11th Century

12th Century
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12th Century

Early 13th Century

13th Century 23

THE EARLY MIDDLE AGES c. 300 - 1300

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

For Further Study

Museum Collections: Middle Ages Morgan Library, New York www.morganlibrary.org/collections Metropolitan Museum, Permanent Collection, The Cloisters. http://www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/the_cloisters Byzantine And Medieval Costume Sites http://www.costumes.org/classes/fashiondress/byzantium.htm http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/timelinepages/carolingian1.htm http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/timelinepages/1000to1200euro1.htm http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/timelinepages/13thcent1.htm Actual Medieval Costume http://www.virtue.to/articles/extant.html Drawings Showing The Structure Of Medieval Costume Houston, M. 1996. Medieval Costume in England and France, the Thirteenth, Fourteenth, and Fifteenth Centuries. Mineola, NY: Dover Publications.

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Image Credits
Image of Bliaut, courtesy of the NYC Public Library Digital Images Collection. Image of Middle Ages male in Coif, www.revivalclothing.com Images in this chapter courtesy of www.clipart.com, and Fairchild Publications, Inc.

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