African Journal of Basic & Applied Sciences 4 (2): 60-66, 2012 ISSN 2079-2034 IDOSI Publications, 2012 DOI:

: 10.5829/idosi.ajbas.2012.4.2.1032

Study of Thermal Comfort Properties of Cotton/Regenerated Bamboo Knitted Fabrics

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Prakash Chidambaram, 2Ramakrishnan Govindan and 1Koushik Chandramouli Venkatraman

1

Department of Fashion Technology, Sona College of Technology, Salem 636005, India 2 TIFAC-CORE, Kumaraguru College of Technology, Coimbatore 641006, India

Abstract: This paper presents the thermal comfort properties of single jersey knitted fabric structures made from cotton, regenerated bamboo and cotton-bamboo blended yarns. Cotton, bamboo fibre and blends of the two fibres (100% cotton, 100% bamboo, 50:50 cotton: bamboo, 67:33 cotton: bamboo, 33:67 cotton: bamboo) were spun into yarns of identical linear density (20 tex). Each of the yarns so produced was converted to single jersey knitted fabrics with loose, medium and tight structures. The thermal conductivity of the fabrics was generally found to decrease with increase in the proportion of bamboo fibre. The water vapour permeability and air permeability of the fabrics were observed to increase with increase in bamboo fibre content. Statistical analysis also indicates that the results are significant for air permeability, thermal resistance, thermal conductivity and water vapour permeability of the fabrics. Key words: Bamboo fibres permeability Thermal conductivity and resistance Air permeability Water vapour

INTRODUCTION Knitting is the process of forming fabric by interlooping yarn in a series of connected loops by means of needles. Knit fabrics provide outstanding comfort qualities due to their inherent softness and flexibility and have long been preferred in many types of clothing. Generally, comfort is defined as the absence of displeasure or discomfort, or a neutral state compared to the more active state of pleasure [1]. In addition, comfort is imparted by the extensible looped structure; knits also provide lightweight warmth, wrinkle resistance and ease of care [2]. With increasing demand for garment comfort, many studies have focussed on the comfort properties of fabrics [3-6]. It was showed that there is an optimum fibre diameter, closely matched by penguin feathers, at which the fibrous materials are at their best in blocking thermal radiation [7]. Some researchers have also studied the effect of micro-denier fibre on the comfort aspects of fabrics and reported that micro-denier fibres give lower thermal conductivity and higher thermal resistance [8, 9]. It was studied the thermal comfort properties of cotton-angora rabbit fibre blended rib-knitted fabrics and found that the mixing of Angora fibre beyond 25% affected the thermal comfort properties significantly [10]. It was experimentally verified that yarn properties like yarn
Corresponding Author:

count, yarn twist and the combing process influence different thermal comfort properties of 1x1 rib-knitted fabrics [11]. They compared the thermal properties of 1x1, 2x2 and 3x3 rib structures and found that heat loss decreased with the reduction in rib number, a finding that is ascribed to increased amount of air entrapped in a fabric of bulkier structure. If the structure between the rib-knit stitches (front and back stitch) has a flat shape, the use of 11 rib and a tight structure would provide better thermal insulation against cold weather [12]. It was studied the thermo-physiological properties of interlock-knitted fabrics produced with air-jet textured, false-twist textured and non-textured filament polyester yarns and found that the thermal resistance of textured fabrics is higher than the fabrics produced with non-textured filaments [13]. They developed a theoretical model to predict the thermal conductivity of knitted structures in terms of porosity, thickness and moisture content. They found that the thermal conductivity of a dry plain-knitted fabric decreases with increase in porosity. However, with increasing water content, the increase in porosity contributes to an increase in thermal conductivity [3]. It was proved that fabric thickness, enclosed still air and external air movement are the major factors that affect heat transfer through fabric [1]. It was noted that thermal insulation increases with decrease in fabric density [14].

Prakash Chidambaram, Department of Fashion Technology, Sona College of Technology, Salem 636005, India.

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African J. Basic & Appl. Sci., 4 (2): 60-66, 2012

It was compared the thermal comfort of single jersey, 11 rib and interlock structures. The general conclusion of this study was that 11 rib and interlock fabrics, due to their high thermal insulation values, should be preferred for winter garments in order to ensure protection from the cold. Between 11 rib and interlock fabrics, it would be better to use 11 rib fabrics for a warmer feeling on first contact. On the other hand, single jersey structures are more suited for active sports or summer garments [15]. The thermal contact feelings of fleecy knitted fabrics in four different compositions were investigated [16]. They found that the thermal contact feeling of fleecy fabrics is strongly affected by the raising treatment, which is the final process of making typical fleecy fabrics. The yarn type and fibre blend (pure cotton and PET/cotton) appears to be less important. It was investigated the influence of fibre morphology and yarn and fabric structures on transient thermal properties and friction behaviour. In order to measure warm-cool feeling, they used an apparatus based on the hot guarded plate technique. They found that the contact interfacial area between skin and fabric is small for rough fabrics and more air is entrapped on a fabric surface with high hairiness, so these fabrics give a warmer feeling. They also stated that structural roughness and warm-cool feelings of fabrics change according to fibre type and yarn and fabric structure [17]. Bamboo and bamboo-cotton blended yarns play a prominent role whenever natural products are considered and they are the most likely selections where a soft look or a soft feel is required. Bamboo fibre yarns too provide the desirable properties of good absorbency, antimicrobial and soft feel in conventional and home textiles and garments [18, 19]. The single jersey knitted fabric is ideal for next-tothe-skin wear, since it possesses high extensibility under low loading conditions which allows it fit snugly and without discomfort on any form on which [20]. The work was aimed to investigate the influence of the bamboo content and compare the thermal comfort parameters of single jersey knitted fabrics made from 100% cotton yarn, 100% bamboo and bamboo/cotton blended yarns. MATERIALS AND METHODS Materials: The experimental part of the present study of investigating the influence of the bamboo content in bamboo/cotton blends at different stages in spinning fibre to yarn was carried out at the TIFAC-CORE Textile Research Centre and Centre of Excellence for Textiles, Kuamarguru College of Technology (KCT), Coimbatore, 61

Tamilnadu, India. Sankar-6 cotton, used in the production of the yarn and fabric samples, was obtained from a spinning mill; the mean fibre properties were found to be: fibre length 27.27 mm, fibre length uniformity ratio 49.58%, fibre fineness 4.52 g/in, fibre maturity 82.53% and trash content 0.19%. The bamboo fibre chosen for the study had the quality characteristics: fibre length 36 mm, linear density 0.155 tex, moisture regain 11.42% and elongation 21.2%. Besides preparing 100% bamboo and 100% cotton yarns, blended yarn of blend proportions 67:33, 50:50 and 33:67 bamboo: cotton were also prepared for the study. It was ensured that all of the yarns produced had the same mean linear density of 20 tex. Production of Knitted Fabric: The above yarns were used to produce single jersey fabrics on Meyer and Cie knitting machines of the following details: Single jersey machine, model MV4, gauge 24 GG, diameter 23, speed 30 rpm, feeders 74 and number of needles 1728; the ambient knitting-room atmosphere had a humidity of 65% and a temperature of 302C. Samples were produced with three different loop-length values of 3.1 mm, 2.9 mm and 2.7 mm to obtain tight, medium and loose fabrics respectively. The knitting process was completed with constant machine settings and the samples were kept in standard atmosphere for 24 hours to allow for relaxation and conditioning. Testing: The fabric structural and physical fabric properties like aerial density (ASTM D 3776), thickness (ASTM D 1777), wales and courses per unit length (ASTM D 3887: 1996 (RA 2008)) and loop length (ASTM D 3887) were evaluated (Table 1). The fabrics were measured for their stitch length, aerial density in g/m2 and fabric thickness at different places with the help of Shirley thickness gauge. The aerial density of the knitted fabrics was measured by cutting the sample size of 10x10 cm. The sample was weighed in the electronic balance and the value was multiplied by 100. The loop length was derived by unravelling 12 courses and their total length was measured. The average loop length or stitch length was calculated using the formula i.e., Total length x No. of wales / 12. The loop shape factor was calculated by the ratio of course/inch and wales/inch. The thermal comfort properties (thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, water vapour permeability and air permeability) of the fabrics were also evaluated. The Alambeta instrument was used to measure thermal conductivity, fabric thickness and thermal resistance. In this instrument the fabric is kept between the hot and cold plates according to ISO11092. The hot plate comes in

African J. Basic & Appl. Sci., 4 (2): 60-66, 2012

Table 1: Statistical comparison Air permeability -----------------------------F value F value 79.73 3959.07 = 0.0 111.16 163.48 Thermal resistance ----------------------------F value P value 111.16 163.48 .000* .000* Thermal conductivity ---------------------------F value P value 70.97 114.33 .000* .000* Watervapour permeability ------------------------------F value P value 177.60 167.82 .000* .000*

Process variable Loop length Blend ratio * Significant for

contact with the fabric sample at a pressure of 200 Pa. As soon as the hot plate touches the fabric surface, the amount of heat flow from the hot surface to the cold surface through the fabric is detected by heat flux sensors. There is also a sensor, which measures the thickness of the fabric. These values are then used to calculate the thermal resistance of fabric. The water vapour permeability was measured on a Permetest instrument according to ISO 11092. The instrument works on the principle of heat flux sensing. The temperature of the measuring head is maintained at room temperature for isothermal conditions. When water flows into the measuring head, some amount of heat is lost. This instrument measures the heat loss from the measuring head due to the evaporation of water in bare condition and with being covered by the fabric. Then the relative water vapour permeability is calculated from the ratio of the latter to that of former (ASTM E96). Air permeability of the fabric has been measured using TEXTEST FX 3300 air permeability tester at a pressure of 100Pa; ASTM D737 has been followed. All measurements were performed under the standard atmospheric conditions 202C and 652% RH. Ten readings were taken for each of the knitted fabrics and then the averages were calculated. RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS Statistical Data Analysis: Evaluation of the test results was made using SPSS 10.0 for Windows statistical software. The study for each thermal property (air permeability, thermal resistance, thermal conductivity and water vapour permeability) was examined by two-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) with a confidence level of 99%. In this study, the statistical significance of fabric characteristics were explained (Table 1). Statistical analysis also indicates that the results are significant for air permeability, thermal resistance and thermal conductivity and water vapour permeability of the fabrics. Structural and Physical Properties of the Knitted Fabrics: It may be gleaned from the data in Table 2 that fabric thickness, fabric weight and loop shape factor show a decreasing trend with increase in bamboo fibre content 62

in the fabric, while the number of courses and wales per unit length increases, for all the loop lengths investigated. These observations are substantiated by the findings of authors [21-23], who found that for yarns with the same linear density, the yarn diameter decreases as the proportion of bamboo fibre increases. This has been attributed to the lower flexural rigidity of bamboo fibres as also to the better packing of fibres in the yarn structure as the bamboo content is increased. Another observation is that for a given yarn composition, increase in loop length causes a decrease in fabric weight, fabric thickness and the number of courses and wales per unit length. This is in accordance with established understanding of knitted fabric behaviour. Thermal Comfort Properties of the Knitted Fabrics: The fabric properties are given in Table 3. Air Permeability: Figure 1 shows the air-permeability values of all the fabrics under study. The results indicate that 100% bamboo fabrics have the highest airpermeability values. Air permeability is an important property of textiles which influences the flow of vapour from the human body to the environment and the flow of fresh air to the body. The results showed that for a fabric of given composition, the air permeability increases as the fabrics become looser. Also, air permeability increases with the bamboo fibre content in the fabric, irrespective of the loop length. The improvement is more marked when the bamboo fibre increases from 67% to 100%. The air permeability of the 100 % bamboo fabric is around 200 % that of the cotton for all the loop lengths. It may be noted from Table 2 that the thickness and weight of bamboo blended fabrics decrease with bamboo fibre content. They are also lower than those of the cotton fabrics made from yarn of the same count. These factors contributed to higher air permeability. Thermal Conductivity: Thermal conductivity is an intrinsic property of a material that indicates its ability to conduct heat. It is the flux of heat (energy per unit area per unit time) divided by the temperature gradient. It may be observed from the Figure 2 that as the proportion of

African J. Basic & Appl. Sci., 4 (2): 60-66, 2012

Table 2: Structural and physical properties of the knitted fabric samples S.No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Loop length (mm) 3.1 mm (Loose) Blend 100 % Cotton 67:33 Cotton: Bamboo 50:50 Cotton:Bamboo 33:67 Cotton:Bamboo 100% Bamboo 100 % Cotton 67:33 Cotton: Bamboo 50:50 Cotton: Bamboo 33:67 Cotton: Bamboo 100% Bamboo 100 % Cotton 67:33 Cotton: Bamboo 50:50 Cotton: Bamboo 33:67 Cotton:Bamboo 100% Bamboo Thickness (mm) 0.755 0.685 0.639 0.598 0.540 0.741 0.668 0.624 0.587 0.528 0.713 0.653 0.609 0.565 0.519 Weight (g/m 2) 111.0 105.0 94.7 87.0 80.0 119.3 109.6 99.4 91.5 85.0 131.0 119.0 108.5 101.5 94.0 Courses/Inch (CPI) 38 41 45 47 49 41 44 47 49 50 43 45 48 50 52 Wales/Inch (WPI) 26 29 34 38 41 30 34 38 41 44 34 37 40 44 47

2.9 mm (Medium)

2.7 mm (Tight)

Table 3: Thermal comfort properties of the knitted fabric samples S.No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Loop length (mm) 3.1 mm (Loose) Blend 100 % Cotton 67:33 Cotton: Bamboo 50:50 Cotton:Bamboo 33:67 Cotton:Bamboo 100% Bamboo 100 % Cotton 67:33 Cotton: Bamboo 50:50 Cotton: Bamboo 33:67 Cotton: Bamboo 100% Bamboo 100 % Cotton 67:33 Cotton: Bamboo 50:50 Cotton: Bamboo 33:67 Cotton:Bamboo 100% Bamboo Air permeability (cm3/cm2/s) 283 316 358 427 574 278 301 342 414 558 265 293 333 401 542 Water vapour permeability (%) 40.06 41.11 42.55 43.33 46.68 42.03 43.12 44.61 45.06 48.04 44.15 45.05 46.25 47.03 49.28 Thermal Conductivity (W/mK) 0.0501 0.0485 0.0453 0.0431 0.0421 0.0480 0.0452 0.0430 0.0410 0.0401 0.0463 0.0430 0.0421 0.0401 0.0381 Thermal resistance (m 2K/W x 10 3) 21.09 20.44 19.34 18.08 17.05 22.13 21.11 20.33 19.21 18.09 23.26 22.01 21.98 20.01 19.13

2.9 mm (Medium)

2.7 mm (Tight)

Fig. 1: Air permeability values of the knitted fabrics bamboo fibre increases the thermal conductivity of the knitted fabrics reduces. As observed by them [19], bamboo yarns are less hairy than the equivalent cotton 63

yarns. Besides, the porosity of the bamboo blended fabrics is generally lower than that of cotton fabrics. Therefore, bamboo blended fabrics can be expected to display higher thermal conductivity than fabrics made from equivalent cotton yarns. However, the experimental results shown in Figure 2 show a reverse trend, which may be attributed to the inherent lower thermal conductivity of the regenerated bamboo fibre than that of natural cotton fibre. The specific heat or the heat capacity per unit mass of cellulose is 1.25 kJ/kgK. However, the morphology of cellulose fibres, whether natural or regenerated, is responsible for their thermal conductivity. It has been shown by them [17], that different varieties of the same fibre type may influence changes in heat transfer. Since physical and chemical treatments of cellulose fibres, such as the alkaline treatment of cotton can cause changes of fibre morphology, changes in their thermal properties can also be expected.

African J. Basic & Appl. Sci., 4 (2): 60-66, 2012

Fig. 2: Thermal Conductivity values of the knitted fabrics

Fig. 3: Thermal resistance values of single jersey fabrics

Thermal Resistance: Thermal resistance is a measure of a material's ability to prevent heat from flowing through it. Under certain climatic conditions, if the thermal resistance of clothing is low, heat energy will tend to gradually decrease, giving rise to a cool feeling. Thermal resistance is a very important parameter and is greatly influenced by fabric structure. Increase in fabric thickness will result in increase in thermal insulation, as there will be a decrease in heat losses for the space insulated by the textile. Thermal resistance is a function of the thickness and thermal conductivity of a fabric. In fact the general expectation was to observe an inverse relationship between thermal conductivity and thermal resistance, as for idealised conditions, R = h/ ; where R is the thermal resistance, h the thickness and the thermal conductivity [22]. However, the results reveal that as thermal conductivity increases thermal resistance increases as well. This is contrary to expectations and might be explained in terms of the fabric thickness. The diameter of bamboo fibre blended yarns is less as compared to that of equivalent cotton yarns. Moreover the bamboo blended yarns have lower bending rigidity; the knitted loops can be compressed easily thereby reducing the fabrics thickness. If the amount of increase in fabric thickness is more than the amount of increase in thermal conductivity (Rct = h/ ), thermal resistance will also increase and a significant increase is seen in the fabric thickness value, respectively (Table 2). As can be seen from the results (Table 2 and 3), as the fabric thickness increases the thermal resistance increases. As illustrated in Figure 3, the thermal resistance value of 100% cotton fabric is significantly higher than the blended materials. Figure 3 showed that as the proportion of bamboo fibre in the yarn increases, the thermal resistance of the fabric decreases. 64

Fig. 4: Water vapour permeability values of single jersey fabrics With increase in bamboo fibre proportion, the thickness and thermal conductivity of the fabric reduces. However, the former has preponderance over the latter and thus the resultant ratio decreases. Water Vapour Permeability: Water vapour permeability of a clothing fabric is its ability to transmit vapour from the body. If the moisture resistance is too high to transmit heat by the transport of mass and at the same time the thermal resistance of the textile layers considered by us is high, the stored heat in the body cannot be dissipated and causes an uncomfortable sensation [24]. Figure 4 showed that as the proportion of bamboo fibre increases, the water vapour permeability increases. The higher water vapour permeability of bamboo blended fabrics can be attributed to the lower values of fabric mass per square metre and thickness, which facilitate the easy passage of the water vapour through the fabrics. The water vapour transmission due to diffusion may also be higher for the

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bamboo fabrics as the moisture regain of bamboo fibre is higher than that of cotton. Among the three knitted fabrics, the tight structure has the maximum water vapour permeability followed by the medium and loose structures. CONCLUSION The thermal comfort properties of single jersey fabrics made from yarns of 100% cotton, 100% bamboo and bamboo/ cotton blended yarns were investigated in this study. It is observed that the parameters of air permeability, thermal resistance, water vapour permeability and thermal conductivity are significantly affected by the fibre blend ratios. An increase in the bamboo fibre content in the fabric affects the thermal comfort properties. The knitted fabrics made from bamboo blended yarns have lower thickness and lower mass per square metre than the cotton fabrics. The thermal conductivity of knitted fabrics reduces as the proportion of bamboo fibre increases in the yarn. The water vapour permeability and air permeability shows concomitant increase as the proportion of bamboo fibre increases. 100% cotton fabrics have higher air permeability and higher thermal resistance values compared with bamboo/cotton blended fabrics. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT The authors express their sincere thanks to Textile Research Centre, TIFAC-CORE in Textile Technology and Machinery, of Kumaraguru College of Technology, Coimbatore, India for permission to process all the samples in their advanced manufacturing laboratory, to the Textile Technology Department of Thiagarajar Polytechnic College for performing most of the tests and lastly to the management of Sona College of Technology for the permission to use the laboratory facilities. REFERENCES 1. Milenkovic, L., P. Skundric, R. Sokolovic and T. Nikolic, 1999. Comfort Properties of Defence Protective Clothing. The Scientific Journal Facta Universitatis, 1(4): 101-106. 65

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