Chapter 11 FINAL

CHAPTER ELEVEN
THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD

c. 1790 - 1820
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Copyright 2010 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

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ISBN: 978-1-56367-806-6 GST R 133004424

CHAPTER ELEVEN
THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820
One of the most significant events marking the turn from the 18th to the 19th Century was the French Revolution
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Supporters of the Revolution adopted elements of dress that symbolized their political views.
The Red Cap of Liberty Trousers of the working man replaced the knee breeches of the aristocratic old regime The Revolutionary Cockade
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By the end of the revolution and the installation of a government consisting of a Directory (Directoire) of three men, styles had altered.
c.1790
c.1790
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c.1800
c.1790
Female fashion extremists were called Merveilleuses (The Marvelous Ones) and the men were called Incroyables (The Incredible Ones).
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Fashion echoed the excesses of the Revolution in styles such as the Haircut a la Victime, cut short like women going to the guillotine, or red velvet ribbons worn around the neck.
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As the rest of the Western world followed the new styles, women adopted several layers.
Closest to the skin some women wore long drawers, called pantalettes, with lace, ruffles or pleats at the edges that showed at the hem of dresses. This style did not persist throughout the period, except as a style for children.
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Over the pantalettes, the chemise, which had a low neck and narrowed silhouette.
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The corset, like the dresses, was straight in line.
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The next layer was a petticoat.
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The high waisted, relatively straight silhouette of c.1800 to 1820 came to be known as the Empire Line. It was named for the new French ruler, the Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte.
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While the empire silhouette continued to dominate, a variety of sleeve and neckline styles could be seen.
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Out of doors women wore these garments.
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A coat-like garment, the pelisse, with an Empire silhouette.
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A shawl, often with the typical Kashmir pattern.
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A Spencer, a short jacket cut to just below the bustline.
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Accessories of Note
Reticule
Cockade Fan
Muff
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Shoes
When compared to the 18th Century, mens dress of the Empire Period was subdued in color and lacked decoration. Gradually trousers replaced knee breeches for day and evening. Exceptions were garments worn at the courts of France or England.
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Underdrawers and undershirts did not change much.

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The visible elements of mens dress were his trousers, shirt , vest, and coat.
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Trousers, called pantaloons when very tightly fitted, often had straps that fit under the instep to keep them from riding up.
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Shirts were cut full and had high, standing collars around which were wrapped cravats or stocks.
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Over the shirt, a man wore a vest, also called a waistcoat.
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Coat fronts generally ended at the waist. Some curved gradually back from the waist into two tails that ended slightly above the knee. Others had a cut-in, a rounded or square space at the front, where no shirt was attached. The tails began where the cut-in ended.
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For outdoors men wore capes or overcoats.

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Click Image to view front back
Dressing gowns, or banyans, continued to be worn at home
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Accessories of Note
Hats
Cravat worn with shirt and with ruffled front shirt. Spats or Gaiters
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Boots
Little girls dresses were very similar to those of adult women. Small boys wore skeleton suits. Both styles carried over from the end of the 1700s.
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Empire period style lines are revived periodically.
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For Further Study

Illustrations Of Actual Costumes Or Illustrations From Contemporary Sources http://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/rd/rd.html http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/timelinepages/1800to1825a.htm http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tsnineteenth/1800-829/18001829.html http://www.sensibility.com/vintageimages/1800s/ http://www.costumegallery.com/ Dress For Special Occasions http://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/dress/mourn.html
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For Further Study

Accessories http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/1800to1817costumesparisiens.htm http://www.austentation.com/Main%20Files/HTML/home.htm http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~awoodley/regency/tie.html Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing Arnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1: 1660-1860. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists. Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press. Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900. New York: Theater Arts Books.
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Image Credits
Various images used courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images. Photo of Spenser Jacket courtesy of www.trousseau.net Image of Fur Muff, courtesy of www.fashionsinime.com Images of Mens Shirt, courtesy of www.vintageshirt.co.uk Image of Hessian and Top Boots, courtesy of www.sarahjuniper.co.uk Various images courtesy of Dover Publications. Various images in this chapter are courtesy of Claire King; www.clipart.com; and Fairchild Publications, Inc.
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CHAPTER ELEVEN

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD

Clickanywhereintheslidetoviewthenextitemonthe slideortoadvancetothenextslide.Usethebuttons belowtonavigatetoanotherpage,close the presentationortoopenthehelppage.

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

Copyright 2010 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

ISBN: 978-1-56367-806-6 GST R 133004424

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

The corset, like the dresses, was straight in line.

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

The next layer was a petticoat.

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

Click to see Napoleon

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

Out of doors women wore these garments.

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

A coat-like garment, the pelisse, with an Empire silhouette.

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

A shawl, often with the typical Kashmir pattern.

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

A Spencer, a short jacket cut to just below the bustline.

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

Underdrawers and undershirts did not change much.

Click to view CHAPTER ELEVEN

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

Over the shirt, a man wore a vest, also called a waistcoat.

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

For outdoors men wore capes or overcoats.