CHAPTER

TEN

THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY

c. 1700 - 1800

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THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800

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The French Court continued as center of fashion during the reigns of Louis XV and XVI

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Keeping up with fashion was important, especially for British dandies called Macaroni's, whose styles were subject to Italian influences.

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Settlement in the British colonies in the New World continued. Colonists in British lands in American grew restive under British rule and by the latter part of the century they revolted and declared their independence, establishing the United States of America.

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Trade with the Far East brought Asian textiles to Europe, providing luxurious silks and printed cottons for fashionable garments.

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In Europe and America the Industrial Revolution made possible the production of a wide range of domestic textiles.
X

Arkwrights Spinning Machine

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Hargreaves Spinning Jenny

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Fashion changes for men in the 18th Century were not extreme.

1700 - 1750
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1750 - 1800
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THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800

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Toward the beginning of the century, men wore white shirts with a ruffled frill at the front under vests that were sleeved or sleeveless. The vest was only a little shorter than the outer coat, which had become wider. Coat cuffs were wide. Breeches reached to the knee.

1700 - 1750
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Throughout the century, coats for formal wear were lavishly embroidered or made of luxurious silks.

Visit the Metropolitan Museum of Art to see more embroidered waistcoats

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If the coat, vest, and breeches were made of the same fabric, the suit was know as a ditto suit.

Visit the Metropolitan Museum of Art to see another Ditto Suit

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For less formal occasions, a frock coat, which was a more casual coat with a flat, turned down collar and a looser fit, might be worn.

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By the second half of the century, vests had grown shorter, breeches were more closely fitted, and the jacket had narrowed and curved back, away from the front below the waistline.

Before 1750
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After 1750
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Both frock coats and more formal coats continued to be worn.

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Loose colorful dressing gowns called banyans were worn at home and also on the street. When relaxing, men might take off their wigs and wear an embroidered nightcap.
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Important accessories for men included pocketbooks, three-cornered hats, wigs, and shoes with gold buckles.

Three-Cornered Hat

Pocketbook

Wigs
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Shoes with Gold Buckles

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For women, previous century styles continue until 1720

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In this century, as in the 16th, hoops become important as wide skirts were worn throughout the century.

The wide skirts of the dress are supported by a frame called paniers.
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Typical undergarments of the 18th Century were a chemise, over which were placed a stays (the contemporary term for a corset) an under petticoat, and a hoop.

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Styles changed several times:

1715 - 1730
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1730 - 1760
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1760 - 1790

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Wide, unfitted gowns were characteristic of the first part of the century

1715 - 1730
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Fitted gowns were also worn, as were loose hip-length tops and skirts

Click on image to rotate garment 360

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Hair styles were relatively simple

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Skirts became less round and were wider from side to side. Gowns fitted in the back were called lAnglaise and those with full unfitted pleats at the shoulder back and fitted fronts were know as robes la Franaise.

lAnglaise
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la Franaise
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THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800

Gowns generally had square necklines. Many had a V-shaped insert at the front, that was called a stomacher, was often highly ornamented with embroidery, lace, and ribbon. Full skirts were generally slit in front and worn over a petticoat of matching or contrasting fabric.

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Hair dressing grew higher. A folding hood-like hat, called calash, was needed to cover the hair outdoors.

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Except for formal dress, the exceptionally wide robe la Franaise was replaced by a dress with skirts held out by a pad, and skirts were looped up in puffs to form a polonaise.

1760 - 1790
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Hairstyles grew to enormous size around the 1770s. Cartoonists enjoyed lampooning these fashions.

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Expensive soft cotton muslins from India were made into a dress cut similarly to a chemise.

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Fullness in the skirt gradually shifted to the back, and the bodice front took on a puffed appearance, as soft scarves were tucked into necklines.

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Working class women, slaves and the poor wore petticoats with straight, unfitted, washable tops called shortgowns.

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With the wide skirts, the most practical outdoor garment was a cape

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Notable accessories for women of the 1700s included some practical items. Tie pockets worn under the skirt for carrying items Parasols to keep off the sun Shoes with matching clogs to raise womens feet off the muddy ground Fans to keep cool

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Philosophers suggested practical, comfortable clothing for children were better for their health and development.

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For Further Study

Actual Costumes Of This Period http://www.kipar.org/baroque-costumes/extant-costumes.html http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/nbg/index.shtml http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/narrative.php?irn=80&QueryPage=index. php&themeback=1 http://www.metmuseum.org/special/Dangerous_Liaisons/fashion_images.htm http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tseighteenth/1700-1799.html Art Of The 18th Century Depicting Costume http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/index.shtml http://www.costumes.org/classes/fashiondress/18thCent.htm http://witcombe.sbc.edu/ARTH18thcentury.html Specific Items Of Costume http://www.lecurieux.com/eca1.htm http://www.spnea.org/NEHM/NEWWSpringPage04.htm http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/BANYAN.HTM

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For Further Study

African American Clothing http://www.history.org/history/clothing/intro/aa_cover.cfm Additional Information About Costume Of This Period http://www.history.org/history/clothing/intro/clothing.cfm Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing Arnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1: 1660-1860. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists. Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900. New York: Theater Arts Books.

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Image Credits
Image of British Macaroni, courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images Collection. Image of Calico Printer, courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images Collection. Image of Men at a Table, courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images Collection, Joshua Reynolds Portrait. Photo of Panier, used courtesy of [ www.farthingales.on.ca ]. Various images used courtesy of [ www.trousseau.net ]. Various images used courtesy of [ www.vintagetextile.com ]. Image of Woman in Calash used courtesy of the New York Digital Image Collection. Images of British Cartoons used courtesy of the New York Digital Image Collection. Image of Woman in Cloak used courtesy of the New York Digital Image Collection. Image of 18th Century Pocket used courtesy of [ www.historywired.si.edu ]. Various images used courtesy of [ www.manchestergalleries.org ]. Various images used courtesy of Dover Publications. Various images in this chapter are courtesy of [www.clipart.com]; [ www.photos.com ]; Fairchild Publications, Inc.; and Fairchild Library.

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