Chapter 4 Production of Manufactured Fibers

70% of all textiles used

Apparel 48% Home furnishings 40%

excluding floor coverings

Floor coverings 99% Industry 91%

Characteristics of Manufactured Fibers

Quantities can be controlled easily b/c not dependent on nature y Properties may be tailored to the needs of the consumer y Blending of manufactured fibers
y

With natural fibers - optimize end product characteristics

Ex. polyester/cotton blend: cotton gives comfort and pleasant hand polyester adds resilience and durability

Categories of Manufactured Fibers

y

Three main categories

Manufactured Cellulosics
x Derived from wood pulp and cotton linters x Cannot be used as textiles in their original form

Synthetics
x Created from petrochemicals

Inorganic fibers
x Glass x Metal x Ceramic

Generations of Manufactured Fibers

y

First generation
Regenerated from natural materials
x Rayon

Second generation
Synthesized from petroleum products
x Nylon

Third generation
Developed within the past 20 years High-performance or high technology
x Microfibers

Formation of Manufactured Fibers

y

Spinning
Process of making a manufactured fiber
x Polymer (fiber forming substance) gets melted into dope x Dope is extruded/forced through a Spinneret

Spinneret
x Looks like a showerhead x Has multiple holes, each one creates one filament

Antron nylon solution dyed polymer chips

Spinneret

Filament Fiber Production

Filaments extruded simultaneously
y y y

Each filament does not touch each other Filaments are hardened as they emerge from the Spinneret Several techniques for hardening the filaments

Described by the number and size of the filaments

70/40
x Yarn is 70 denier and there are 40 filaments

Hardening Techniques for Filament Fibers

Melt spinning
Polymer melted Force thru Cool air to solidify Simple / less expensive
Nylon, olefin, polyester, saran and glass

Hardening Techniques for Filament Fibers

y

Dry spinning
Polymer dissolved in solvent Extruded into warm, dry air Warm air dissolves the solvent + hardens the filament Acetate, vinyon, some acrylics

Hardening Techniques for Filament Fibers

y

Wet spinning
Polymers dissolve in chemical bath Extruded into other chemical bath Acrylic and viscose rayon

Hardening Techniques for Filament Fibers

y

Solvent spinning
Newest process Polymer is dissolved in amine oxide Extruded into solvent bath Tencel, Lyocell

Special-Use Spinning Methods

y

Gel Spinning
Hybrid of wet + dry spinning Also called Solution Spinning Plastic films and packing materials Spectra

Emulsion Spinning
for insoluable fibers high melting points Teflon GORE-TEX fabrics

Specialized Fiber Formation

y

Heterogeneous fibers
Bicomponent

y y y

Hollow fibers Microfibers Fibrillated fibers

Advantages of Bicomponent Fibers

y

Single fiber has characteristics of both polymers

Increased comfort Better absorbency Cross-dyed effects can be achieved

Bilateral Fibers
y

Also called side-by-side bicomponent fibers

Two different polymers fed into spinneret
x Fig 4-4a p.58

Benefit of crimp
x Result of one fiber shrinking more than the other x Crimped fibers have:
x x x x Improved hand Increased cover Loft elasticity

Sheath-Core Fibers
y

Spun so one fiber encases the other

See #43 on p.26 of your Swatch Kit Refer to Fig 4-4b on p. 58 of textbook

Matrix or Biconstitute Fibers

y

Created with two generically different fibers

Fine, short lengths of one fiber embedded in another before extrusion Fig. 4-5

Hollow Fibers
y

Have one or more spaces in their centers Fig 46 p. 58

Air injected into fiber as it is being formed Shape determined by spinneret holes By adding gas producing compounds to the spinning solution

Lightweight and trap air

Often used for cold weather clothing
x Thermolite by DuPont

ITS

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Photomicrograph of hollow nylon fibers (cross section)

21

ITS

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Photomicrograph of hollow nylon fibers (cross section)

22

Microfibers
x Produced by carefully controlled melt spinning

Splitting method
x Two incompatible polymers are extruded then separated.

Sea-island method
x Polymer for the microfiber is embedded into another polymer.

Also called microdenier fibers y Characteristics

y

Soft Excellent drape

Fibrillated fibers
Characteristics
x Coarse fibers used for bagging and twine

Extrude asheet of polymer Draw and stretch the sheet

x This causes it to break into interconnected fibers

Manufactured Fiber Modifications Dictated by the Projected End Use

y y y y

Drawing Heat setting Texturing Cutting

Modifications continued
y

Drawing parallel alignment or orientation of molecules Partially oriented yarns (POY)

Not drawing to the maximum length

Fully oriented yarns (FOY)

Drawing to the maximum length

Undrawn Antron nylon fiber

27

Modifications continued
y

Heat Setting
Heat and pressure permanently change shape
x Improves dimensional stability of thermoplastic yarns . x Create permanent pleats and creases

Pleats Heat Set into Polyester

Modifications continued
y

Texturing Produces the following:

Bulkier yarns Opaque yarns Yarns with elastomeric qualities

Since synthetic fibers are moldable, they will retain a permanently textured shape

Modifications continued
y

Cutting
Creates staple yarns from filament fibers Extruded from spinnerets with many holes to produce more economically See Fig. 4 8 p. 61 for a detailed summary of the process

Antron nylon staple tow

32

Additional Treatments
y

Applied during the spinning process

Additives such as:
x x x x Dyes Pigments Delusterants Whiteners

Chapter 5 Manufactured Cellulosic Fibers

Two categories Regenerated cellulosic fibers Derivative cellulosic fibers Both made from cotton linters and wood pulp

Regenerated Cellulosic Fibers

y

Rayon
Pure cellulose fiber Originally produced from mulberry trees Known as artificial silk Viscose rayon only type produced in US

Viscose rayon fiber

36

Varieties of Rayon
y y

Originally inexpensive to manufacture

Viscose Rayon y Cuperammonium rayon y High-wet modulus (HWM) or polynosic rayon y High-tenacity rayon

General Properties of Rayon

Excellent absorbency y Wet strength lower than cotton y Poor resiliency y Does not pill
y

ITS

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Photomicrograph of viscose rayon fibers

39

ITS

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Photomicrograph of flat rayon fibers (cross section)

40

Mechanical Properties of Viscose Rayon

y y y y y y y y

Medium-weight fiber Not as strong as cotton Abrades more easily than cotton Weaker wet than dry Not dimensionally stable
Tends to shrink progressively when laundered

Poor elastic recovery Poor resilience Flexible fiber

Chemical Properties of Viscose Rayon

y

Very absorbent
x Comfortable to wear x Dyes readily in rich vibrant colors

y y

Burns like cotton Conducts electricity no static buildup

Catches fire when exposed to open flame. Continues to burn when flame is removed. Smells like burning paper

Acids and alkalis degrade it

Environmental Properties of Viscose Rayon

y y y

Silverfish Mildew Sunlight

End Uses of Viscose Rayon

y y y y

Frequently used in blends

Blended with fibers that are more durable

Most rayon fabrics are woven Fiber may stretch when damp or wet Nonwoven rayon fabric used in medical and sanitary products

Care of Viscose Rayon

Dry cleaning recommended y Nonchlorine bleaches are safe y Follow care labels!!! y Store in a clean, dry environment
y

More Rayon p.67

y

Cuperammonium Rayon
Bemberg rayon (bember industries until 1975) Known as cupro Silkier in feel and appearance Lightweight summer clothing

More Rayon
y

High-Wet Modulus Rayon

Stronger, more resilient, more dimensionally stable Modulus refers to resistance to stress + strain European generic name is Model

High-tenacity Rayon
stronger than viscose

Lyocell
y

Newest regenerated cellulosic fiber

Tencel by Courtaulds Fibers, Inc. Lenzing Lyocell by Lenzing Fibers Corporation

Solvent used is nontoxic

Self-contained solvent-spun process
x Creates little water and air pollution

Environmentally friendly fiber

y

Process more expensive

Tencel lyocell fiber

49

Physical Properties of Lyocell

Fiber is round y Smooth y No striations y Fibrils or tiny fibers on surface
y

Creates a fine, soft finish with reduced luster

ITS

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Photomicrograph of lyocell fibers

51

Mechanical Properties of Lyocell

y y y y

Stronger than other cellulosic fibers More abrasion resistance Less shrinkage Better resilience

Chemical Properties of Lyocell

Similar to rayon y Absorbent y Dyes well y Comfortable to wear y Excellent static resistance
y

Environmental Properties of Lyocell

y

Similar to rayon
Silverfish Mildew Sunlight

End Uses of Lyocell

y y y

Apparel & Home Furnishings Knits and Wovens Due to high cost limited nonwoven applications Frequently used in blends
Especially cotton

Care of Lyocell
y y y

Wash or Dry clean Follow care labels closely Friction can cause additional fibrillation of fibers

Derivative Cellulosic Fibers

y

Acetate and Triacetate

Chemically changed during production Derivative of cellulose called esters
x FIBERS ARE NOT CELLULOSE

Cellulose Acetate Commonly Called Acetate Developed during WW1 as coating for aircraft wings y After war it was developed into a fiber y Production began in 1924 y First thermoplastic fiber y Trade names
y

Chromespun Estron

Physical Properties of Acetate

White fiber y Longitudinal striations y Irregular cross section resembling popcorn see p. 70 y Lustrous, but may be delustered y Smooth hand y White unless dyed prior to extrusion
y

ITS

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Photomicrograph of acetate fibers

60

Mechanical Properties of Acetate

Very weak fiber y Lighter in weight than cotton or rayon y Poor abrasion resistance y Poor elasticity y Poor resilience y Not dimensionally stable y Does not pill y Drapes well
y

Chemical Properties of Acetate

y y y y y y y

Moderate absorbency Builds static electricity Melts at temps over 275 Thermoplastic Resistant to acids and bases Can be bleached with nonchlorine bleach Not as comfortable to wear as:
Cotton, linen or rayon

Environmental Properties of Acetate

y y

Susceptible to atmospheric gases

Color may change

Silverfish if heavily starched y Mildew y Sunlight degrades

But less than silk/other cellulosic fibers Delustered acetate less resistant to sunlight

End Uses of Acetate

y y y y y y y y

Apparel and Home Furnishings Dont use when durability is needed Lining fabric Frequently used in:
Taffeta, satin and brocade for formal wear

Cigarette filters Personal hygiene products Fiberfill Filters

Care of Acetate
y y y

Dry cleaning recommended Stay away from acetone Nonchlorine bleaches may be used

Triacetate
U.S. production ceased in 1986 y Produced today in;
y

United Kingdom Japan Belgium

y

Similar to acetate:
Physical and chemical properties Differs mechanically

Triacetate
y

Mechanical Properties (compared to acetate)

Better resiliency Better dimensional stability Better elasticity Like acetate
x Low strength x Poor abrasion resistance

Triacetate
y

Chemical Properties (compared to acetate)

Less absorbant Builds up static electricity (like acetate) Much less senstitive to acetone Less heat-sensitive (given special heat setting treatment)
x creases and pleats are more permanent

Environmental Properties
More resistant to mildew than acetate Resistant to silverfish, moths and carpet beetles Moderate resistant to sunlight

Triacetate
y

End Uses
Used when durability is not important Used when pleat and crease retention is important Bedspreads Comforters draperies

Triacetate
y

Care of
Machines washed Hand washed Dry cleaned Use non-chlorine bleach Needs lining for sunlight if used as draperies Acetone will damage it.

Videos
y
y

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q58mPh6v0kA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mAYMg5ycMs