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SPECIAL SERIES
The Great
AFRICA
Rift Valley
DYNAMICS OF LIFE IN THE ALBERTINE RIFT
Western escarpment Fault
The western arm of Africas Great Rift Valleythe Albertine Riftembraces such rich and varied habitats that its wildlife diversity is unparalleled on the continent. With deep freshwater lakes lling the valleys spine (map, far left), the Albertine spans mountains, marshes, savannas, and active volcanoes. The geologic forces that created this rift valley are still in motion, most visibly at its center, around Lake Kivu (below).
N
NGO
UNDER THE VOLCANO In the path of Nyiragongos lava ow, the city of Goma has grown from 50,000 to a million people in the past 20 years. Many are refugees from eastern Congo warfare.
UGANDA RWANDA
Bl
Bunia
on
ts
Alpine moorland
eu
Montane forest
Musanze Arrows indicate relative motion of tectonic plates. Lava beds Nyiragongo
(Ruhengeri)
CONG O
Butembo
VIRUNGA
L owl an d Fo re st
or i
D EM OC R A T I C R E PU B LI C OF T HE
A B
. ts
Rw en z
UGA N DA
Africas Great Rift Valley follows the edges of tectonic plates that merged more than a billion years ago. Now the plates are separating, or rifting, along those seams. The Arabian plate was the rst to split off, starting 30 to 25 million years ago. In another 30 million years, rifting may cleave the Somalian plate from the main continent and detach the block called the Tanzania craton.
MILLION YEARS AGO 1 10 Tectonic plates begin to move
DE
Splitting a Continent
.R EP RW .O AN DA
CO THE
NG
Rubavu
Goma
(Gisenyi)
Lake Kivu
Volcanic cones
Carbon dioxide bubbles up and dissolves in the lakes depths. Lake sediments atop layers of volcanic rock
Ed
rd wa
Re
La ke
NATIONAL
The elevation prole of four ecosystems (right center) follows this 82-mile-long cross section.
ARABIAN PLATE
d Se
ts.
RI
ga M
PARK
Gulf
of A
den
apart as magma rises. A shallow valley forms, with a low escarpment, or ridge, along a fault line. Lava oozes up through ssures and cools into sheets of rock.
VIC
Nyiragongo
11,385 ft 3,470 m K
TO
TA N ZA N IA
Area shown in Lake Kivu geology diagrams (right top)
Vi
TANZANIA CRATON
run
LAKE
vu
A K ga Ki gali li l i Kigali
Madagascar
e K i
TODAY
continues to stretch and fracture. Volcanic cones begin to dot the valley. Faulting causes the west side of the valley to sink, heightening the escarpment.
Eastern escarpment
Rising magma
Scale varies in this perspective. Distance from Goma to Nyiragongo is 10 miles (16 kilometers).
Lak
RWAND A
ARABIAN PLATE
Bukavu
B
(Butare)
Huye
Muyinga
M
U
SOUTH SUDAN
B U RUND I
Uvira Bujumbura A
POPULATION DENSITY
People per sq km (sq mi) 50 (130) 100 (260) 200 (520) 500 (1,300) 1,000 (2,600)
further, creating an escarpment on the east. Streams owing from the western highlands ll an early Lake Kivu. Erupting volcanoes will form the Virunga Mountains.
erupted in 1977 and 2002, taking lives and displacing hundreds of thousands of people. Molten rock beneath 1,600-foot-deep Lake Kivu releases carbon dioxide, which gets trapped in the lake. If an earthquake or eruption freed the gas, along with trapped methane, the death toll would be catastrophic.
15,000 ft
Madagascar
Ugom a
UGANDA
12,500 ft
Alpine moorland
10,000 ft
Montane forest
7,500 ft
Savanna-forest mosaic
C
Kigoma
Flooded Grassland
BURUNDI
The Albertine Rift cradles more than 850 species found nowhere elseincluding the rare mountain gorilla (about 780 remain) and the venomous Great Lakes bush viper. There are familiar faces too: More than 50 percent of the continents bird species and almost 40 percent of its mammal species live here. The illustrated scenes at bottom highlight four vital Albertine ecosystems.
Extreme variation in altitude and climate contributes to the Albertines biodiversity. This elevation prole of habitats, with their typical plants and animals, traces the 82-mile-long cross section marked on the map at far left.
HEAVILY CULTIVATED AREA
A
K
5,000 ft
UGANDA
E
T
hil
TANZANIA
SPECIES KEY
ENDEMIC (FOUND NOWHERE ELSE) NOT ENDEMIC THREATENED OR VULNERABLE ENDANGERED
Blue-headed sunbird
Parrot impatiens
Mountain gorilla
Giant lobelia
Ruwenzori duiker
Shoebill stork
Hippopotamus
African lion
D EM OC R A T I C R E PU B LI C OF T HE
A
a
Mu
CONGO
on
CONGO
ts
a l i m b a
ZAMBIA
B ALPINE MOORLAND
D SAVANNA-FOREST MOSAIC
Acacia tree Martial eagle
8,668
TA N ZA N IA
A
La
LHoests monkey
385 1,074 177 143 480 6,409
ke
Ru
kw
Giant heather
Blue-headed coucal
Ruwenzori turaco
Endemic
Thicket Flooded Grassland
854
NSUMBU NATIONAL PARK
er
45 42 18 38 370 341
ke
La
ZAMBIA
0 mi 0 km 100 100
Strange-nosed chameleon
Threatened
Flooded Grassland
175
Flooded Grassland
DESIGN: JUAN VELASCO TEXT: SHELLEY SPERRY ART: ALDO CHIAPPE (WILDLIFE), GARY HINCKS (GEOLOGY) RESEARCH: BARBARA L. WYCKOFF PRODUCTION: SANDI OWATVEROT-NUZZO CONSULTANTS: ALEXANDRIA L. GUTH, MICHIGAN TECHNOLOGICAL UNIVERSITY; ANDREW J. PLUMPTRE, WILDLIFE CONSERVATION SOCIETY; JOHN BATES AND VELIZAR SIMEONOVSKI, FIELD MUSEUM; HENK BEENTJE, ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW; JULIAN KERBIS, ROOSEVELT UNIVERSITY; JOS SNOEKS, ROYAL MUSEUM FOR CENTRAL AFRICA MAPS: ROSEMARY P. DALEY, DEBBIE GIBBONS, JULIE A. IBINSON, JAMES E. MCCLELLAND, JR. MAP DATA: TERRESTRIAL ECOREGIONS GIS DATABASE, WORLD WILDLIFE FUND; SRTM DATA, INTERNATIONAL CENTRE FOR TROPICAL AGRICULTURE; NASA EARTH OBSERVATORY; MODIS/TERRA VEGETATION CONTINUOUS FIELDS, NASA; UMD GLOBAL LAND COVER CLASSIFICATION, UNIVERSITY OF MARYLAND; OAK RIDGE NATIONAL LABORATORY LANDSCAN 2009/UT-BATTELLE TECTONIC MAPS: STANISLAW MAZUR, GETECH; AFAR RIFT CONSORTIUM, UNIVERSITY OF LEEDS (DATA) MORE ON NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAPS AND ITS PRODUCTS AT NATGEOMAPS.COM OR CALL 1-800-962-1643 COPYRIGHT 2011 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY, WASHINGTON, D.C. PRINTED SEPTEMBER 2011
36 25 2 15 24 73
Covering the lower slopes of mountains and the highlands anking the valley, this ecosystem holds the rifts greatest number of endemic species. Flamboyant birds and chameleons and 11 species of monkeys share the forest with the web-toed Ruwenzori otter shrew, about a foot long, which catches crabs and insects in streams.
THREATS Even in protected areas, forests are cleared for farmland and fuel; gold mining is fouling streams.
At altitudes above 10,000 feet, the misty Rwenzori Mountains and the volcanic Virunga chain shelter otherworldly plantsheathers as tall as trees and towering lobelias. Thick fur warms the tree hyrax, a distant relative of the elephant. Two endangered primates, the mountain gorilla and the golden monkey, survive here.
THREATS The warming temperatures of climate change could shrink this already restricted habitat.
Papyrus is the sole perch of the red-breasted papyrus gonolek. Along with other wetland vegetation, papyrus fronds form supportive mats for aquatic antelope called sitatungas. The Congo clawless otter shes here and also digs for giant earthworms in pockets of swampy forest clearings scattered about the rift.
THREATS Overshing is taxing lake stocks, and wetlands are being drained to expand farmland.
Two rainy seasons a year bring abundant grass for the savannas grazing topi and Uganda kobprey for the top predators, lions, and for scavenging vultures and eagles. As elephants push over trees while feeding on branches and leaves, grassland expands. Natural res frequently sweep through, priming the savanna for regeneration.
THREATS Trees are cut for charcoal; lions that attack encroaching domestic cattle are killed by farmers.
Species numbers, from the Wildlife Conservation Society, are best estimates as of 2011 and considered to be minimums.