106 Coated Fabrics for Apparel Use: The Problem of Comfort 106.1 The Physiology of Heat Regulation. 106-1 IN. J. Abbott 106.2 Vapor Permeability Requirements 106-2 Albany lnernational Research Srcathale Fes Company Bibliography 106-3 Coatings or laminated films are commonly used in apparel fabrics to provide protection from wind, water, or other fluid (see also Chapter 105), or sometimes simply to answer the dictates of fashion, Almost any typeof coating material may be used, particularly by the fashion designer, whose choice may be determined more by aesthetic considerations than by functionality or serviceability. But whenever a continuous coating is used in clothing, no matter what its type or purpose, there is one common problem: people ae likely to find the clothing uncomfortable if worn for long periods of time, or during vigorous acti, 106.1 The Physiology of Heat Regulation “Comfort” can be defined very simply and precisely. We feel comfortable when the temperature of our skin is within about 1° of 34°C and, of course, the physiology of our body controls that temperature very effectively under normal conditions. If there is a change in the ambient conditions or in any other factor, such as a reduction in physical exertion, which lowers the skin temperature, blood flow to that part of the body is increased. If, on the other hand, the skin temperature increases, there isan increase in the output of perspiration which, by its evaporation, produces a cooling effect. Activity levels that do not adversely affect our comfort, therefore, are those for which the body’s mechanisms can control skin temperature without the accumulation of liquid sweat on the ski, Moisture iscartied away from the skin by tivo mechanisms: by evaporation at the skin and transmission of that vapor through the clothing (as vapor); and by absorption of liquid water into the clothing. While the second mechanism is useful in keeping the skin dry, itis of ttle value asa cooling device. Temperature contzol is best achieved through evaporation of perspiration from the surface of the skin. ‘The amount of heat (provided by the body) required to evaporate 1 g of liquid perspiration from the skin at 34°C, and to dissipate it into the surrounding atmosphere, assumed forthe purpose ofthis example tw be at 27°C, 50% relative humidity, has been stated to be Eyal tbc Ey 578 calories sent heat of vaporization of water at 34°C 106-1106.2 Coatings Technology Handbook, Third Edition TTABLE 106.1 Metabolic Rats, Perspration Production, and Vapor Permeability Requirements for Various Levels of Physical Activity ‘Metabolic Fate Water raporation Vapor Permeability Activity ow) Rate (g24 h) Rate (gim/24 Sleeping | © 00 200 siting 100 ssn0 130 Gentle walking 200 7600 2500 Aatve walking 300 11,300 a0 ‘Active walking on the Tee, carrying a heaey pack ao 15250 5000 ‘Active walking in the mountains, carrying a Heavy pack 600-800 —-28,000-30,000—_—s0D0-10,000, Very heavy work too 3800 13,0004 & By heat required to expand the vapor from 34°C, 100% RH, to 27°C, 100% RH =9 calories heat required to expand the air containing the evaporated water in order to reduce its relative humidity from 100% to the humidity of the ambient air, 50% = 23 calories Hence, the total cooling energy derived from evaporating | g of liquid perspiration and dissipating it into the surrounding atmosphere is 5, 78 +9 +23 20 calories This is true only, of course, if the clothing is capable of transmitting the vapor to the ambient atmosphere without a change of phase or of temperature (other than that provided for inthe calculation), It is clear, then, that the moisture vapor permeability of the clothing must be high enough to. pass vaporized perspiration at the rate at which it is being produced at the skin, 106.2 Vapor Permeability Requirements Any estimate of the vapor permeability requirements of clothing must be based on estimates of a number of factors that depend on body size and physiology. Since these vary significantly from individual to individual, and even for one individual from one time to another, no precise values can be given. One of those factors consists of the metabolic rates corresponding to various levels of physical activity Representative values of metabolic rates are shown in Table 106.1. Some of this metabolic energy is used. to perform the work that is being done, Most oft, however, is turned into heat, which must be dissipated. Some ofthis is expelled in respiration. The remainder must be dissipated through the evaporative cooling, ‘mechanisms discussed above. Depending on the design of the clothing, some portion of the vaporized. perspiration may reach the surrounding atmosphere directly through vents in the clothing by means of a bellows-type action. The remainder must pass through the clothing fabric as vapor. Table 106.1 gives, values for the required vapor permeability of the fabric, based on representative values of all these variables, as well as of the total surface area of the clothing. thas been suggested that clothing that isto be worn during periods of physical activity have a moisture vapor permeability of 6000 grams per square meter per 24 hours. Even the densest uncoated sportswear fabric easily meets this requirement. The addition of an impermeable coating, however, reduces the permeability to a level often not more than 100 g/m/24h. To ensure that clothing made from coated fabric is comfortable, this permeability must be raised by as much as two orders of magnitude. 106. 1 Breathable Films ‘Three basic approaches have been taken to the manufacture of coatings that are permeable to water vapor atthe same time, resistant to the passage of liquid water (so-called breathable films):Coated Fabries for Apparel Use: The Problem of Comfort 106-3 1. Puncture the film with needles, laser beams, or other means to produce an array of micrometer- sized holes. 2. Make the film from a material that can be broken up into fine, iberlke strands, with micrometer- sized spaces between the fibers. Create monolithic polymer membranes that contain no through-going pores, in which transmis- sion of water vapor occurs through a process known as activated diffusion. In such membranes, the water vapor condenses and dissolves in the surface and then diffuses through to the other side of the film, where it desorbs and evaporates into the surrounding space. 3. ‘The first of these approaches, involving the mechanical puncturing ofa cast film, appears in some ways to bea simple and direct way of achieving the desired permeability. However, because the holes need to bye extremely small if water resistance is to be maintained, and very closely spaced if the desired perme: ability level is tobe attained, there is at present no totally successful, economically viable produet available. ‘The production of microporous films by expanding and spliting a continuous film of appropriate morphology has been a more successful approach, Several such products are commercially available, the best known being based on a polytetralluoroethylene film. Others based on polypropylene or polyure thane are also being produced. ‘The third approach, the production of a permeable monolithic film, is being pursued aggressively by ‘many companies throughout the world, Most of these products are based on a modified polyurethane or polyester, and several are already in use, particularly in sportsweat ‘The best of these “breathable” materials have moisture vapor permeabilities as high as about 4000 gf sm/24 h, which is high enough to keep a moderately active individual comfortable. It is not yet high enough to meet the needs imposed by vigorous activity, or the extreme requirements of, for example, the long-distance runner, hockey player, oF fireman. But it isa significant improvement over the use of a regular continuous coating. This is a rapidly changing area that is attracting a great deal of research and development effort. Recently, a new candidate material based on a modified amino acid {poly(R-methyl L-glutamate)] has been announced. This coating was stated to have a moistute vapor permeability of 8000 to 12,000 g/m"? 24h, We can confidently expecta proliferation of products to result and can look forward to a time when the long-term comfort of water-resistant clothing, even for the most active person, can be ensued. Bibliography Four, L, and N.R.S. Hollies, Clothing Comfort and Function, New York: Dekker, 1970, pp. 21-30. Greenwood, K., W. H. Rees, and J. Lord, “Problems and protection and comfort in modern apparel fabrics? in Studies in Modern Fabrics. Manchester, UK: The Textile Institute, 1970, pp. 197-218 Hollis, N.S, and R. E Goldman, Clothing Comfort: Ieracton of Thermal, Ventilation, Construction and Assessment Factor, Ann Arbor, ME Ann Arbor Science, 1977 Keighley, JH, “Breathable fabrics and comfort in clothing” J. Coated Fabrics, 15, 89 (1985) Lomax, G.R, "The design of waterproof, vapour-permeable fabrics” J. Coated Fabrics, 15,40 (1985) Lomax, G.R. “Coated fabrics. Part I Lightweight breathable fabrics”. Coated Fabrics, 15, 115 (1985) Newburgh, L., Physiology of Heat Regulation, Philadelphia: Saunders, 1949, pp. 99-117. Slater, K., “Comfort properties of textiles” Textile Progress (The Textile Institute, Manchester, UK), 9 (1977). US. Departinent of Commerce, Comfort Factors in Protective Clothing (January 1978-April 1987). NTIS, PBS7-857678, 1987 ©2009 Tyr ri Gap