JAKARTA & BALI CULINARY PROFESSIONAL NEWSLETTER

SEPTEMBER - OCTOBER 2009 | FREE

Andrew Zimmern RAW FOOD

Discovers Bali REVEALED
Voices from the lands of Royal
Chocolate and Coffee Condiments
 presidents’ message

TASTE TASTE Dear friends and culinary colleagues, Dear Culinary Members,

team contents It seems that as soon as one major

event is behind us there are more
coming. Apart from working
behind the scenes with the BCP
Happy 64th Independence Day
of Indonesia, during the month of
August most of our activities for ACP
in Jakarta focused on Indonesian
committee on new membership Culinaire starting with Pangan Nusa
editorial consultant 5. President’s Message and new committee members, our at Jakarta Convention Center where
Sarah Dougherty work with the wider community 21 provinces presented specialties from
6. Short Order - What’s New also continues. their regions. This event are held by
contributors In September Darren Lauder the Department of Trade, BPEN, the
Kora, Marco Rucola, Katrina Valkenburg, 8. A Raw Treat at Como Shambhala and Vindex Tengker, President of ACP Jakarta, will travel National Export council, and coordinated through ACP and the
Es Dee, Kayti to Bangkok for the WACS (World Association of Chefs support of culinary experts such as William Wongso, Bondan
10. Ary’s Warung writes the book on Society) Asia Forum. This is a chance for Indonesia to Winarno, Tuty Soenardi and Emma Wirahadikusuma. Mrs
coordinator & marketing 12 contemporary Indonesian food join with other Asian Culinary organizations. The Forum Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono, wife of Indonesia’s President visited
Miranti Amandya is a chance for Presidents to connect with each other and the event. On 9 August we were also invited to judge the Betawi
12. Andrew Zimmern on Bizarre Food discuss upcoming events. Food competition for the women’s association PKK from the
photographers Chef Andrew Skinner has been working together with his regions of DKI Jakarta at the Taman Mini Indonesia Indah.
Dewandra, Sarah 14. Cold Smoking at Mozaic Bulgari team, Wayan Wicaya and commi Alex Tamuhardja ACP also organised the 1st Indonesian Master Chocolate
on their upcoming Global Chef entry. The ingredients Competition, which was held at the Jakarta Food Expo
graphic designers 16. Drop in for afternoon tea will be released later this month and then intense practice Kemayoran in conjunction with Interfood Exhibition during
DeKa
sessions will begin in anticipation of the trip to Santiago August. The winner of the competition was Borobudur
18. Voices from the lands of Chocolate Chile next January. Sponsorship is now being sought and Hotel Pastry Team who received a trophy and US$1000. The
distribution and Coffee
Gede Sudiartawan, Arif Junaidi 18 finalised and the list of members and friends who would competition followed similar rules as the Asian Pastry Cup
like to attend the event is encouraging. We are all looking but focused on Chocolate Show Pieces and Chocolate cake/
24. Raw Nature spotlights zucchini
office forward to it. desserts only. There were 11 teams from Hotels, Restaurant and
BCP Secretariat (attn. Kathryn) We have accepted an invitation to cook in Singapore Bakeries from Jakarta one from Solo, Kobayashi Bakery that
26. Wine Matters. during the Asia On The Edge festival where seven chefs will won the 2nd place of US$ 750.
Travel Works Communication International
Jl. Kesari no. 60a, Sanur 80223, Bali,
participate in a culinary display that will end with a gala We also sent teams to Food Hotel Malaysia, which was held
28. Aman introduces a new wine list dinner. The event will be held from September 24 to 27. at the Kuala Lumpur Convention Center from 11-14 August
Indonesia
Representing us will be young Chef, Jason from Bali’s Hu’u 2009. The team was lead by Rahmat Kusnedi together with 2
Tel: 62 – 361 – 284095 29. Royal sambal features at Bali Restaurant. artists, 1 hot cooking chef and 1 pastry chef.
Fax: 62 – 361 – 270189 Safari Park. We have seen a lot of rapid change in the last few This September, we will send our representative team to
E-mail: media@balichefs.com 29
months and lots of new chefs taking up key positions in Culinary Competition in Bangkok from 4-6 September and
Website: www.balichefs.com 30. Farmer’s Markets in Sydney Bali, this is great for our industry as new blood keeps us we will be participating at the Vietnam Expo for an Indonesian
evolving creatively and means our industry remains vibrant. Food Exhibition and Cooking Demo from 24- 27 Sept at the
32. Dining out in Lombok I feel this is a most exciting time in Bali’s culinary journey Hanoi Convention center.
and appreciate all the support we receive from members At the end, let me wish “Selamat Menunaikan Ibadah Puasa”
34. BCP lunches and sponsors. to all members of ACP and BCP who will be celebrating the
fasting month starting the end of August. Let the spirit of peace
37. Young Chefs Update Regards to you all, and harmony lead us all to the true meaning of friendship and
Made Putra unity among us especially all the culinarians around the world.
38. Chefs Day Out President BCP
With Culinary Regards,
Vindex Tengker
President ACP
pre press & printing by
PT. Dian Rakyat
Cover photograph of Vietnamese daikon
rolls from Como Shambhala Taste Magazine
Created by Chris Miller and Dewa Wijaya
TASTE Newsletter can be downloaded at Photo by Dewandra Djelantik As the island breathes a sigh of relief following the August party food industry and we also check on how Aman Resorts is managing
www.balichefs.com season, we look forward to a new season of culinary excellence. to create a great wine program, despite the limitations with imports.
In this issue we seek the perfect antidote to high season with an BCP hosted some great events in recent months and we have the
extraordinary degustation dinner at Como Shambhala and we talk photos. The young chefs have been busy and one of our young chefs
to Janet De Neefe from Ubud Writer’s Festival about the food has the opportunity to represent Bali in Singapore next month. Taste
focus for the upcoming festival in October. We travel to Sydney strives to bring you the best of our culinary industry with every issue,
to check how the farmer’s markets are driving innovations in the we hope you enjoy this one.

4 TASTE | September - October 2009 September - October 2009 | TASTE 5

 short orders short orders

Raising The Bar A Lighter Shade of Pale

Ayana Resort have big shoes to fill as the former Ritz
Carlton but if the startlingly located Rock Bar, opened Hattens Wines turn 15 this September and plan to mark the
in July is any indication, they are making great strides. event with the launch of their new labels. The local company
Perched on the edge of the cliff, Ayana hosted a huge that started small has made a big impact on the local wine
crowd of media, travel and tourism operators and invited scene and continues to struggle to meet demand. As rose is now
guests to a dazzling preview of the new sunset venue. finding favour as a fashionable tipple, Hattens expansion plans
With a yacht positioned in the dramatic sea off the bar, are well timed. With an Australian expert wine maker on the
a themed menu prepared by newly appointed chefs, free team, an exuberant sales team and a constant commitment to
flow alcohol at the two glass bars and extraordinarily improving the quality and range, Hattens seems set to be a part
perched entertainers, the place rocked. of local dining for a long time to come. Hattens will celebrate
on September 26.
Ayana Resort and Spa, Jimbaran.
PH: (0361) 702222. For enquiries PH: (0361) 767 422.

Training The Trainer Kafe Warisan Meets Metis

The Rational oven has taken pride of place behind the counter
in Gourmet Garages’s deli and featured in a number of their
recent events. In-house chef Geoffrey Guanawan and his
assistant Chris have signed up for the train the trainer series
with Rational and are now conducting professional training
sessions in the deli to compliment the schedule at Mozaic
in Ubud. The pair recently went to Malaysia for further
training and come back with an expanded reportoire. Live
cooking demonstrations are planned regularly, and open a
whole new world of possibilities.
For information on scheduled sessions in Bali, contact
Pieter at Lotus on (0361) 701650.
Bringing It
It may only be around the corner but Kafe Warisan’s move to
new premises with a new name and a new concept promises
to take food lovers on a whole new journey. The incredibly
successful team of Doudou and Said will be joined at Metis by
French pastry chef Giles Delaloy, whose experience includes
New York’s historic Waldorf Astoria and top-acclaimed CENA
to most recently Singapore’s Ritz-Carlton Hotel. There are a
lot of excited diners waiting for this new concept in dining to
launch in October and plenty of chefs and F&B professionals
among them.
Metis will open in Jl. Petitenget no. 6, Krobokan. info@
metisbali.com
Fonterra Announces
WACS Sponsorship
Fonterra Foodservices, the largest milk supplier in

Back Home the world and responsible for more than a third
of international dairy trade, has signed a two year
contract as an official Silver Sponsor of the World
It is endlessly fascinating that while Indonesia is one of the biggest suppliers Association of Chefs Societies, WACS. Fonterra’s
of raw cacao, cocoa and cocoa butter, most of the crops are exported and then support and commitment to the industry in
imported as quality chocolate. Tulip chocolate, one of the country’s biggest Indonesia is also widely acknowledged. In recent
manufacturers of chocolate products has recently launched a 65% couverture months global ambassador and WACS Australia
chocolate that is designed to meet the imports head to head. Easimelt blend is Pacific Director, Glenn Austin has toured the
made from cocoa from both Java and Ivory Coast and is priced competitively. region meeting chefs and French pastry legend, Jean
Available now through major suppliers. Francois Arnaud held pastry workshops in Jakarta
and Bali for local chefs. Fonterra have a new supplier
For enquiries contact: lany@nirwanalestari.com in Bali, PT. Indoprima Utama in Denpasar.
For enquiries PH: (0361) 438 451.

6 TASTE | September - October 2009 September - October 2009 | TASTE 7

 A Raw Treat
Chris Miller’s shopping list of luxury items might confuse some people into
thinking it is his household grocery list, however for the Como Shambhala
Estate’s Chef, who has become adept at creating raw food menus, avocados,
parsnips, celeriac and brussel sprouts top his list of must haves.
“We’re allowed to be a little extravagant,” he laughs.
The luxury resort is a wellness retreat where clients are willing to pay
premium prices to indulge in a healthy getaway. Chris has been with the Red spinach and young coconut
Como group for eight years and has become comfortable with creating menus bakso with peanuts
that address the health issues and combine creative techniques to ensure his Heart of Palm and pineapple soup
guests don’t feel deprived. Balinese pure green urab
Como Shambhala Pizza on
Dewa Wijaya and Chris Miller at
Flexseed Cracker
Como Shambhala
“Our regular menu at Como
Shambhala includes raw food as well
as vegetarian and Indonesian menus.
Our guests know that if they have a
weak moment we can always supply
a burger or something a little more
extravagant, but we get a lot of guests
who are already committed to raw
food or vegan diets” he says.
While the regular menu does
include some fish and chicken, the
rule of thumb here is strictly ruled by
nutritional values. Guests have access
to a nutritionist as well as various
therapists trained in Ayurvedic
techniques as well as yoga, fitness
and wellness.
Once a month however a special
menu is designed to tantalise guests
and offer them a very special treat.
It is a celebration of raw food that
offers a surprising range of flavours
Vietnamese Daikon Rolls
with dipping sauce and
and textures. Created together with
dehydrated shallots local food guru Diana Von Cranach,
1 3
1
2
3
4
2 4
who Chris describes as a dynamo,
the pair challenge the senses and
produce plates that look vibrant and
sing with freshness.
“It’s just like our mothers always
told us, eat your fruit and vegetables.”
Chris and his team, which include
Executive Sous Chef Dewa Wijaya
who he met during his first Como
posting in Parrot Cay, are masters of
presentation and subtle nuances in
food. While most chefs struggle with
satisfying vegetarian customers, there
is plenty of inspiration here. Much of
it is available in the adjoining gardens
at Como Shambhala.
“Our most recent menu combined
a number of South East Asian
influences, so there was a fair amount
of chili, ginger and local spices. The
rule with raw food is that it cannot
be heated above 115 degrees. Where
deep fried shallots are normally
served in South East Asian dishes,
the texture and crunch is provided by
slowly dehydrating them instead.”
Chris was hired from the kitchens
of Sydney’s Rockpool where he worked
with acclaimed Australian chef, Neil
Perry. Initially the constraints of
cooking within the confines of strict
nutritional guidelines was a stretch
but over time he has been inspired by
the creative challenges.
Bright eyed with clear skin and an
abundance of energy, Chris claims he
couldn’t eat like this all the time, “but
a few days on a raw food diet makes
you feel great.”
The monthly raw food degustation
menus are usually served over lunch.
For reservations or information PH:
(0361) 978888.
Como Shambhala Estate, Begawan
Giri is located in Banjar Begawan,
Payangan, Gianyar.
September - October 2009 | TASTE 9
 Ary’s Warung
In its history the famed Ubud
warung, Ary’s has gone through
many physical transformations but
as an early pioneer of contemporary
Celebrates Contemporary
Balinese cooking, it will probably
best be remembered. As proprietor
Odeck travelled and fell under
Asian Recipes
the influences of various culinary
cultures his warung in Ubud also felt
the winds of change.
Through many chefs over more
than two decades, Ary’s influence
It seems there is a groundswell of interest in contemporary Indonesian has been felt beyond Ubud, and
what was once a revolutionary
cooking and Ary’s Warung have literally written the book. Consulting Chef,
Tristan Balian
idea, has now entered mainstream
culinary consciousness in Indonesia
Consulting Chef,
Tristan Balian
10 TASTE | September - October 2009
and beyond.
The recently released cookbook,
‘Contemporary Balinese Asian
Cooking’ tells the story in words and
pictures of some of the highlights over
the years. The recipes have been chosen
and adapted by the current consulting
chef, Australian Tristan Balian from
the archival recipes created over the
last twenty-five years.
“As our current Executive Chef
we consulted with Tristan to choose
a good compliment of recipes for the
book and also to tailor them so they
are achievable in home kitchens,”
explains Tara, wife of Odeck and a
driving force behind many of their
enterprises.
The book is brilliantly photographed
by Rio Helmi and includes some
wonderful writings that chronicle the
history of both Ary’s Warung and
food in Bali.
The recipes and the book are
fashionable, timely and speak
eloquently of the effortless way
Balinese food can be inspirational
and beautiful in a contemporary
dining environment. It is an idea
that has been emerging throughout
Indonesia and it is beautifully
illustrated in this book.
The book is available at Ary’s
Warung and better bookstores across
the island at around Rp 175,000.
Ary’s Warung is located in the
Ubud Main Street, PH: (0361)
975053. E: aryswarung@decko.com
Consulting Chef,
Tristan Balian
September - October 2009 | TASTE 11
 The
BIZZARE
TRUTH
The man who has travelled the globe and fascinated TV viewers
with his daring gastronomic indulgences arrived in Bali fully
prepared to be disappointed. He was not.
I was standing in the midst of a
group of Balinese men, splattered in
pigs blood, my hands deep in lawar
and it was at that moment I realised
what Bali was all about. I fell in love
with it.”
Andrew Zimmern was a chef and
restaurateur who set out to introduce
the world to other cultures by way of
food. The idea that became his show,
“Bizarre Food”, came from a conviction
that viewers would be attracted by his
ability to swallow strange and foreign
foods and meanwhile glimpse cultures
that are, in many cases, off the map.
“As a child I travelled a lot with my
parents and their curiosity about the
local cultures in the places we travelled
to included sampling the local food.
At six years old I was sitting with my
father and his friends in a Paris bistro
when they suggested I try the snails.
The mind said disgusting but I wanted
to be one of the boys, so I ate them. It
was the beginning of a realisation that
it is always worth a try, some things
are not that bad,” he explains.
In Bali for the first time to film part
of his new series, “This Bizarre World”
I have to ask what is so bizarre about
this place?
“That’s exactly what I mean. To
you who live here all this becomes
commonplace but elsewhere men
slaughtering a live pig, pulling out
the entrails to make a communal
dish mixed with blood to serve at a
ceremony where people voluntarily
have their teeth filed down in a village
clearing, seems well, weird.”
Among the worst things he has
12 TASTE | September - October 2009
ever eaten is the stinky tofu that is
common in Taiwan. He says the two
day old is bad enough, but the tofu
they marinate for fourteen days in a
10 year old vegetable juice is positively
horrendous.
He had to travel to a far flung fishing
village in Iceland to have one of the
other top five most disgusting dishes
ever – the meat of a shark that has
been buried in dirt. “It is marinated in
its own pee and has to be timed well
as in the stages right after it has died it
is poisonous,” he explains.
One of the strengths of his show
is that he gets right in there and
experiences it. He spends time with
the people he visits and does what
they do, it’s experiential he says and it
is through the people and their every
day life, as well as the food they eat,
that viewers discover cultures other
than their own.
And what were the most surprising
foods he discovered in his travels?
“Among the best things I have eaten,
of the bizarre kind, include the black
donkey, the kudu, which is a special
treat in China, delicious, and I would
kill sometimes for the porcupine skin
and fat they roast over a cone of fire
in the African bush. As a chef, I know
I am not far off the mark when I say
something is really, really good.”
Andrew Zimmern releases his
new book in September, called The
Bizarre Truth: How I went out the
door and came back shaking my
head. The Indonesia episoldes of his
new show will air next year on Travel
and Living.
 Smokin’ at Mozaic 1 2

Gadgets galore are employed in the state of the art kitchen

of Mozaic where some of the island’s most seductive food is
prepared. One item however that is usefully employed cost a mere
Rp3million and is the creation of Chef de Cuisine, James Ephraim
and the maintenance man at the much awarded restaurant.

Cold Smoking is a process that passionfruit leaves can be added,

James has employed in former jobs
in both England and New Zealand,
a process which he has applied to
everything from fois gras to oranges
to amazing effect.
“I literally drew a rough picture
of a smoker and gave it to one of
our maintenance staff and really
didn’t expect it to happen,” laughs
James. However, happen it did and
in the 8 months that the smoker has
been employed in the herb garden
attached to the Mozaic’s culinary
school it has inspired many of the
anything really, it adds a depth of
flavour to the food which is then
prepared in various ways to create
the end result,” he continues.
Cold smoking fois gras was an
experiment that James believes adds
a subtle flavour to the liver which is
then pan seared before serving. Pork
belly gets the treatment and he has
even experimented with fruit, in one
case creating an orange sorbet from
the fruit he had smoked. 1 Cold-smoked Salmon confit
“We have tried it with vegetables, 2 foie gras tapas trio
fruit, meat, poultry and all things. 3 feathers trio tapas plate

restaurant’s menu items. A lot of our menu is prepared using

Chef James Ephrain cold smoking
salmon in Mozaic’s herb garden
Employing three separate
chambers, one for the fire which
generates the smoke, the second
for the ice which cools the smoke
and the third to hold the food, the
smoker imparts flavour as opposed
to cooking the food.
“We can flavour the smoke by
using different woods and even
herbs. Coffee wood is one I like,
sous-vide technique, cold smoking
the food first results in more flavour.
Our salmon is cold smoked and then
prepared as a confit to order, the
texture is like butter and the taste is
wonderful. We also do our tomatoes
this way, smoked first with salt and
thyme and then dried in the oven,”
he continues.
Cold smoking is a technique that
has been employed creatively at
Mozaic to great effect, and best of all
it is simple to use, effective and as
gadgets go, very economical.
The award-winning Mozaic Res-
taurant and Lounge is located on
Jl. Raya Sangginan, Ubud. PH:
975768.

14 TASTE | September - October 2009 September - October 2009 | TASTE 15

 café couture

Tea Invades
To go from old to new, we can start
with Bali Kopi Butterfly Brand which
has always had tea – a nice variety
of black teas from Java which have
restaurant set ups so it is natural that rigueur scones, jam and all the other
many of our up market establishments goodies.
offer this brand. Now Ubud has its tea house too
Speaking of which, Dharma Teas in The West End Café, just a short

Coffee Country?
taken a back seat to their main coffee
business. You can find a substantial
selection at the old headquarters
(circa 1930’s) on Jl. Gadja Mada in
Denpasar near Jl. Sulawesi (they also
Well, it almost seems like that these days. Suddenly have great cappuccinos there if you’re
we have tea all over the place with so many great tired of shopping!) as well as at the
main wet market of Pasar Badung.
choices it is hard to think of coffee (excluding non tea Their teas are also available at Kopi
drinking coffee addicts, of course). House Bali on the Sanur By Pass.
Newer on the scene, dating from
1991 is Dharma Tea. This company
sells a large selection of black, green,
white teas and herbal infusions.
Dharma Tea’s list of customers who
are happy with their goods is long and
impressive. A promotional package
includes samples, explanations of
individual teas as well as suggested
‘menus’ and information about
production. Advisor Kib Roby is
always happy to talk to potential
tea drinkers about individual teas or
are also found amongst the other teas
at Biku in Pettitenget. Biku also has
specialty teas imported from China
and India as well as their own private
blends. Owner/manager Ibu Asri has
enlisted the aid of her tea expert son
to set up what has to be one of the
most atmospheric tea houses possible.
Located in an old antique building
(ex antique store), Asri has made this
tea house into a great place to relax
and enjoy tea and a meal at any time
– breakfast, lunch or dinner. You can
also browse through books and cards
in the branch of Ganesha Books or
bring a backgammon game to play in
the ‘living room’ area or have your tea
leaves read of a Sunday. Biku also does
special groups so those with birthdays
or anniversaries are always welcome.
In Bali, the afternoon high tea
was first established here at Biku
for us lucky ones and comes with de
distance from the Neka Museum on Jl
Raya Sanggingan. Newly opened on
July 1, the café is light and airy with
hand painted wall areas and lovely
peaceful colors. An outside verandah
is perfect for tea drinking smokers.
Open for lunch and afternoons,
West End serves the famous British
Cream Tea of scones and jam as well
as Afternoon Tea. And of course they
have sandwiches and salads as well.
Note that it is closed on Sundays.
On the main road into Ubud
where you turn left at the statue and
go down the road, on the upswing on
the left is Kue, a lovely chocolatier
and bakery, where they now also serve
afternoon tea. Cafe closes at 3pm.
So, is this a movement away from
coffee to the more healthful tea?
Coffee drinkers will never agree, but
then look at what has happened to
smokers!!!

Perfect Scones with Jam & Cream

Scone recipes are often jealously
guarded, with many cooks claiming
they have perfected the recipe. After
exhaustive research at Taste magazine,
we agree with Gourmet Traveler
Magazine, these are the lightest, most
perfect scones of the many recipes we
have tried. Cooks may want to adjust
the salt to your personal taste. Take
note, the dough is sticky!
SERVES 12
Cooking Time Prep time 10 mins,
cook 15 mins
600 ml pouring cream
40 gm raw caster sugar, plus extra for
scattering
450 gm self raising flour, sifted
pinch of salt
Tea service at Biku
For brushing: milk
To serve: jam
To serve: crème fraîche or whipped
cream
Preheat oven to 190C. Whisk cream
and sugar in an electric mixer to firm
peaks (4-5 minutes). Stir in flour and
salt until a soft dough forms, turn
onto a well-floured surface, knead
until smooth (2-3 minutes). Add
extra flour if dough is sticky. Roll to
2cm thick on a well-floured surface,
cut out rounds using a floured 5cm-
diameter cutter. Place on a baking
paper-lined oven tray, brush tops with
milk and scatter lightly with extra
sugar. Bake until risen and golden
(10-15 minutes), serve warm or cold
with jam and crème fraîche or lightly
whipped cream.

September - October 2009 | TASTE 17


The Power
of The Pen
Evocative stories have been written
about food since the pen was
invented. Food has long held the
power to inspire poetry and prose
alike. This year’s Ubud Writers and
Readers Festival will see masters of
the culinary arts meet masters of the
pen in a dynamic new addition to the
event schedule.
Food will play a special role in this
year’s festival and will include two
special events named respectively,
“Voices from The Coffee Lands” and
“Voices from the Chocolate Lands”
and will feature menus highlighting
two of the world’s most seductive
ingredients.
“It occurred to me that Indonesia
is the land of coffee and chocolate,
as we supply so much of it. It also
seemed that many of our writers this
year also came from lands that are
producers of both. I thought why
not combine the real life memories
18 TASTE | September - October 2009
A PERFECT BLEND OF QUALITY & SERVICE
of writers who share this common
bond,” explains event founder, author
and restaurateur Janet DeNeefe.
Not only coffee and chocolate will
be featured but also event menus
created with various writers, many
of whom are enthusiastic cooks
themselves.
“When I first started getting
in touch to suggest this idea, I was
surprised by the response. Many of
our writers this year also love to cook
and were very enthusiastic about
presenting recipes from their home
countries.” The products that meet your most demanding needs. The
Through these events Janet is brands that are synonymous with long-lasting quality and
hoping to connect the food with the
events and will work with her own efficiency. And the assurance of a customer-oriented
staff and some of the island’s best business philosophy geared towards maximising your
chefs to create menus inspired by the
writers attending this year’s festival. business potential. Ruiter Far East - where your business is
Ubud Writers and Readers Festival our business.
will feature from October 7-11 in
various venues.
Blk 5 AMK Tech 2 #03 - 14 Ang Mo Kio Industrial Park 2A Singapore 567760
Tel: +65 64833022 ● Fax : +65 6234 0784 ● www.ruiter.com.sg
 advertorial

It Has To Be Rational ©

Rational’s latest technology is now available throughout Indonesia and is

supported by a full range of service and support options including live cooking
demonstrations. As more of the island’s chefs put Rational to work in their
kitchens. Here Penny Williams of Alila, Manggis tells us why Rational works
for her.

1. What difference has Rational The only challenge was to learn

made in your kitchen?
 to trust the oven! After working causing damage to the oven.

We have much more control for so long with unreliable ovens 5. Can you give us a dish you
when we are baking our breads it was hard to let go!! My staff have successfully created with
and pastries as the RATIONAL© especially were worried to let Rational, if possible?

is very even cooking. Our guest the oven take care! But after we See recipe. The low temperature
satisfaction has risen as our worked out the programs they settings made it possible to make
product standard has risen. soon got the hang of it!
 a meringue that is white and still Apply the finishing touch to your hotel, villa or restaurant with exciting
2. Have you been able to be more 4. What is your favorite function? deliciously soft in the centre. And new products from Hospitality Essentials.
creative using the technology?
 The cleaning function! Being the program will take care of it Visit our Kerobokan showroom to view more than a thousand sample items
when we cook it over night, as this or pick up a copy of our 2009 catalogue for the complete solution to your
Yes it certainly widens your mind able to put the tablets in push the interior and exterior needs.
as your options widen.

 button and know that the job will is the only time when we have no
3. Was it challenging to master?
 be done and done well without one needing the oven for 3 hours.

Penny’s recipe: PT SOURCING BALI Jl. Gunung Salak 31a, Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia. Tel +62 361 780 3981 +62 361 744 8025/35 Fax +62 361 430 683 sales@sb-he.com www.sb-he.com

Meringue with Lemon Curd, Passion Fruit MERINGUE

and Organic Vanilla Ice Cream
LEMON CURD
4 Egg yolk 2. Whisk together the egg yolks and caster
150 g Caster sugar sugar
100 ml Lemon juice, Lemon kuning
60 g Butter dice, cold and cut into 1 cm
2 tsp Lemon zest, Grated
METHOD:
1. Whisk yolks and sugar very well
2. Add lemon juice and zest
3. Cook in a bowl over hot water stirring all
the time until thick, slowly adding the
4 pcs Egg white
240 g Caster sugar, Warm
1/4 tsp Salt
butter. DO NOT BOIL. 1 tsp White vinegar
4. Remove and put into a plastic tub and 1/2 tsp cornflour
cove with plastic wrap touching curd to
stop skin METHOD:
5. Cool 1. Whisk the egg whites to a full peak
2. Mix all the dry ingredients together and
VANILLA ICE CREAM slowly add to the egg whites
1 litre milk 3. When all is added and the egg whites are
1 litre cream smooth stiff and glossy add the vinegar
300 g caster sugar 4. Make oval shapes using a kitchen spoon
20 pcs egg yolk and place on baking paper
10 g Vanilla pod 5. Bake in your Rational self cooking centre
set on 90degrees for 15 minutes
METHOD: 6. Then turn it down to 60degrees and set
1. Heat the milk, cream and scrapped vanilla the timer for 3 hours and cook over
pod unitl almost boiling night. as the oven cools the meringues
harden and stay safe our of the humidity
until you come back after a good nights
3. Pour a little ik mixture into the egg yolk sleep knowing your Rational oven will
mixture to losen take care!!
4. Pour this into the milk whisking well To serve assemble and fill.
5. Bring up to heat stirring with a spatula so
not to create bubbles For further information please contact:
6. Strain through a fine strainer Millie Chan
7. Cool quickly in fridge T.+65 9770 8820
8. Churn in an ice cream machine according E. m.chan@rationalinternational.com
to the manufacture’s instructions W. www.rational-ag.com

20 TASTE | September - October 2009

design update

Copper Essentials
Hospitality Essentials has introduced a beautiful new
range of hammered copper accessories. Copper is a
favorite of many chefs around the world for cookware
– and now, this beautiful metal is available in a wide
range of accessories too. Included in
the range is a wine bucket – perfect
for tableside wine service, food
presentation plates, chargers, candle
holders, vases and a selection of
small bowls. Available in a variety of
colours and finishes; copper can add
a unique accent to your presentation.
Customers can choose from existing
items within the Hospitality
Essentials range or can custom
design items to suit specific needs.

Hospitality Essentials, Jalan Gunung Salak 31A,

Be playful
Kerobokan, Bali - Indonesia.
PH: +62 361 744 8025/35

this season!
Thrilled to create a piece that’s not only functional but also
fun and entertaining, Jenggala launches the new, amusing
Wobble Mug. Designed by in-house designer, Fitorio
Leksono, the Wobble Mug is true to its name as it features
an extraordinary shape that allows it to roll on its base, yet
stay up enough to be a functional drinking cup. You can
spin, sway and wobble this cup on your table until gravity
brings it back to reality. The new Wobble Mug collection
features this unique shape in a buff surface on the outside
and playful glossy colors on the inside.

Let the Wobble Mug be a good companion to release stress

and refresh your mood with its light friendly interaction
on your table. Jenggala happily introduces a new, fun
drinking experience with the amusing Wobble Mug.
 News from Doctor Rocket’s Organic Farm
Raw Nature
By Dr. Marco “RUCOLA” de Leonardis
I have recently returned from my
family’s home in Puglia, Southern
Italy. The region is well know for
it’s simple yet delicious food (cucina
povera), incredible variety of fresh
seafood, traditional homemade
pastas and deeply red Primitivo wine.
My family have been farmers for
generations and along with farming
comes a passion for the preparing and
sharing the food we grow. My mother
shared this intense passion with us as
a young family and still to this day –
when I arrive back from Bali to visit
her at home she always has my favorite
dishes prepared for a family feast. This
trip was no exception and I arrived
home to find a big platter of Zucchine
alla Scapece, an all time summer
favorite! This is one of the recipes I am
sharing with you this issue.
This has inspired me to write
about the quintessential summer
vegetable, the Zucchini, also know
as Courgette in the US and France.
Introduced to North America in the
1920s, the zucchini is a member of
the cucumber family (cucurbitaceae),
and produces long slender green
or yellow vegetables, or sometimes
round vegetables. The common name
today is derived from Zucca which
means squash in Italian, and the
smaller vegetable varieties in Italian
are called Zucchine. The two main
types of squash are Winter Squash
and Summer Squash.
Summer squash (Zucchini, Patty
Pat, Marrows) are harvested in the
summer, have thinner skins and
can be eaten lightly cooked or raw.
Commonly known as Zucchini, they
are scientifically fruits, but we refer
to them as vegetables since they are
generally eaten as a savory dish. The
plants produce 2 types of flowers,
24 TASTE | September - October 2009
male and female, both of which are
edible. The male flower is on the end
of a slim stalk, whereas he female
flower is attached to the zucchini
fruit itself. Baby zucchini are a small
and delicate, often sold with the
flower attached. Male flowers are sold
on their stems, in bunches and are
slightly easier to handle.
The mild tasting zucchini vegetable
is low in calories (approximately 15
calories per 100g fresh zucchini) and
contains great amounts of folate 24
mcg per 100g, which is associated
with lower risks of vessel clogging
and heart attack, also contains
potassium 280 mg per 100g and
vitamin A 115 mcg per 100g. 1/2 cup
of zucchini also contains 19% of the
recommended amount of manganese.
Having a high water content is one
of the most important health benefits
of the zucchini, it is especially useful
during hot summer days.
The whole plant can be eaten, from
the blossoms, the fruits (zucchini),
the seeds and even the shoots and
leaves! Globally the culinary diversity
and usage of this summer vegetable
is extremely widespread! Here is a
sampling; Zucchini Fritata, a baked
crustless quiche using zucchini, the
flower blossoms, egg and parmesan
cheese; Fiori di Zucca Ripieni are
fried, stuffed zucchini blossoms with
anchovy and mozzarella, Zucchini
Parmigiana is a layered baked dish
similar to Parmigiana di Melanzane
which uses fried eggplant instead;
Italian Pasta Primavera; in the South
of France the famous Ratatouille
combines zucchini with other summer
vegetables like tomatoes, peppers and
onions; in Greece and the Middle East
you will find lamb Stuffed Zucchini
and they also make a delicious
Zucchini pie using feta cheese, herbs
and filo pastry; In Southern Italy
the pasta dish which uses the shoots
and leaves is know as Spaghetti con
Tenerumi; In Spain the vegetable is
used in a Zucchini Chocolate Cake;
In Mexico their vegetable dish pairs
zucchini with corn; and in North
America the moist Zucchini Bread
and Zucchini muffins are an everyday
family favourite!
At our Raw Nature Organic farm in
Bali, we grow organic green and yellow
zucchini, long or round, and patty
pan squash, all sold with or without
flowers. For details of our organic
zucchini varieties available at the farm,
see www.rawnaturefarms.com.
Zucchini Alla Scapece
(marinated zucchini)
At home we make this a
day in advance, as it gives the
Zucchini Carpaccio
The second recipe I would
like to share with you, is one
zucchini plenty of time to I prepared for my mother this
absorb the flavors of the garlic, time! Very easy and simple to
mint and vinegar. Cover the prepare it is one of the most
platter tightly with plastic wrap delicious ways to enjoy fresh
and refrigerate, but be sure to zucchini. Once again the pairing
let it sit at room temperature of mint with zucchini is used,
for 30 to 45 minutes before only this time there’s no frying
serving, as a side dish or salad. involved! For this recipe we use
the raw vegetable, and therefore
INGREDIENTS it is more important than ever
• 1 cup of mixed olive and to insist on using chemical free
vegetable oil, for frying Organic zucchini.
• 8 small or 5 medium fresh As a light first course this
organic zucchini, cut crosswise on the diagonal into thin dish can be prepared on individual plates or on a single
slices large platter. If you use the zucchini blossoms, remove the
• 3 medium cloves garlic, sliced paper-thin pistils from the centre, and tear the delicate yellow petals
• 1 box Doctor Rocket’s Organic Mint, leaves torn from into long shreds, wash them gently and pat dry.
sprigs, plus 1 whole sprig, for garnish
• Sea salt INGREDIENTS
• 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar • 2 small organic green zucchini (blossoms removed – set
aside for garnish)
METHOD • 2 small organic yellow zucchini
If the zucchini are really firm and fresh, then you can fry • 1 box Doctor Rocket’s Organic Mint, leaves torn from
them immediately. If, however, you are using medium sized sprigs, plus whole sprigs for garnish
zucchini, I suggest you let the slices dry for a few hours in • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
the sun before cooking them. • 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
Heat the oil in a large, deep skillet to about 375 degrees. • Grated rind of half a lemon
Carefully fry the zucchini slices, in small batches for about • 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
3 to 5 minutes, until golden brown on the bottom, gently • 1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted in a pan over medium heat
turn the slices fry for 3 to 5 minutes on the second side, with no oil for 2 minutes
until tender and golden-brown. Use a wire mesh strainer • 150gr piece Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano
or large slotted spoon to transfer the zucchini slices to the
lined platter to drain.
METHOD
When the slices are cool, arrange them on a deep
Cut zucchini length wise into paper-thin slices with
oval serving platter in a single layer, slightly overlapping.
Mandolin (or similar adjustable blade slicer) Arrange slices,
Scatter a few slivers of garlic and a several mint leaves.
overlapping slightly, in 1 layer on 4 plates.
Sprinkle with a little salt, and drizzle a few drops over the
Make stacks of mint leaves and cut crosswise into very
layer of zucchini. Continue to fry the zucchini, layer them
thin slivers, then sprinkle over zucchini.
in the platter, topping each layer with the garlic, mint, salt
Whisk together oil and lemon juice in a small bowl, then
and vinegar.
drizzle over zucchini. Sprinkle with sea salt, pepper to taste,
Cover the platter loosely with plastic wrap and let sit at
lemon rind and pine nuts. Let stand 10 minutes to soften
room temperature for at least 1 to 2 hours (or refridgerate
zucchini and allow flavors to develop.
overnight). Garnish the platter with a sprig of mint just
Just before serving, use a vegetable peeler to shave cheese
before serving.
to taste over zucchini, then sprinkle with torn zucchini
blossoms and mint sprigs.
September - October 2009 | TASTE 25
 wine story
In the heady days of the 80s in
Australia, when good Champagne
cost less than a bucket of prawns,
I veritably drowned in this liquid
aphrodisiac. There was an abundant
choice in all but the humblest wine
shop and the decision came down
to ogling the bulging fridges and
asking “which of you effervescent
beauties wants to grace our palates
tonight?” It was not so much the
price that swayed me but more the
label – tried and true brands were
always more likely to appeal. These,
of course, included Bollinger, Moet
et Chandon, Veuve Cliquout, Pol
Roger, Lanson to name but a few.
And then the market became more
sophisticated and the number of
brands imported grew exponentially
along with the local and international
sparkling wines. Many of the high-
end domestic sparkling wines offered
their own unique selling proposition
but generally speaking most tried
to emulate the flavour spectrum of
Champagne.
Champagne is a place – a region
of France - and it is because of this
that no sparkling wine outside of
this region has the right to be named
Champagne. However, many people
still call sparkling wine Champagne
and that same consumer will call it
French Champagne when they want
26 TASTE | September - October 2009
Champagne
Liquid Aphrodisiac
By Katrina Valkenburg
Every time I spy a squat, sexy Champagne bottle it makes me feel
extremely titillated and slightly naughty - it’s a promise of a good night,
or a good morning, for that matter.
the good stuff.
Many of the wine regions of
the world produce extremely good
sparkling wines made in the same
manner as those made in Champagne
– Méthode Champenoise – including
Australia, Spain, Italy, Germany,
Chile, North America, England,
New Zealand and France.
There are three classic grape
varieties used in the production of
traditional sparkling wines (as in
Champagne).
• Pinot Noir – a black grape that
adds backbone, fullness, weight
and length to the wine and adds
depth to the back of the palate.
• Chardonnay – a white grape that
adds finesse, elegance and fullness
to the front palate.
• Pinot Meunier – a black grape
used to give the wine fruitiness and
roundness that integrates well with
the previous varieties.
There are many different styles of
Champagne and sparkling wines on
the market including:
Prestige Cuvee
A cuvée de prestige is a proprietary
blended wine (usually a Champagne)
that is considered to be the top of a
producer’s range.
Blanc de noirs
A French term (literally “white of
blacks”) for a white wine produced
entirely from black grapes – generally
made from pinot noir and occasionally
from pinot meunier.
Blanc de blancs
A French term that means “white
of whites”, and is used to designate
Champagne or sparkling wine made
exclusively from Chardonnay grapes.
Rosé
Rosé Champagne and sparkling
wines are produced either by leaving
the clear juice of red grapes to
macerate on its skins for a brief time
or, more commonly, by adding a
small amount of still pinot noir red
wine to the sparkling wine cuvee.
Vintage
Vintage Champagne or sparkling
wine is made entirely from one
vintage.
Generally speaking, choice is
dependent on budget and personal
preference. But one thing is for sure;
Champagne and sparkling wine
give a sense of occasion that calls for
sharing your good fortune with the
people you love.
Which of you effervescent
beauties wants to grace our
palates tonight?
Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Elizabeth Salmon
This top-end Rosé Champagne was recently tasted
at the Bulgari Hotel at a Billecart-Salmon dinner. A
standout Champagne that has the fragrance of fresh
rose petals, tastes like the most delicate of dishes and
feels literally like angels waltzing on your tongue.
Contact: Agung Sri Antari
(agung.antari@lotusfood.com),
Lotus Distribution: (0361) 701650 or Simone
Baldwin (simone@bogafinewine.com)
Jacquesson Cuvée 733 NV
Founded in 1798, Jacquesson stakes the claim as the
oldest independent Champagne house. A relative
newcomer to the list of fine Champagne available
in Indonesia, this attractive wine has an elegant yet
full flavour with good structure and weight.
Contact: Agung Sri Antari
(agung.antari@lotusfood.com),
Lotus Distribution: 0361 701650 or Simone Baldwin
(simone@bogafinewine.com)
Undurrugga Demi Sec
A soft, delicate, semi dry sparkling wine made
from Chardonnay grapes from the Maipo Valley.
This is a drink anytime, anywhere, refreshing wine
that would be perfect as an aperitif or dessert but
possibly even better at breakfast.
Contact: Anom Adnyana (anom@indowines.net),
PT Indowine (0361) 8477232
Katrina Valkenburg is a wine educator, consultant & writer.
Email: katrinav@mac.com
September - October 2009 | TASTE 27
 Crystal at work
WINE STARS at Aman Resorts
Startling how good a simple grilled chicken salad can be in the right circumstances; accompanied by
a fine bottle of Italian white, perched atop a sweeping view for instance.
At Aman Resorts from this time
on, the wine dilemma is being solved
by a new worldwide wine buying
program that will see each of the
resorts, including those in Indonesia,
coming up with creative and well
priced wine lists that are a pleasure to
peruse.
Travelling the world, visiting
winemakers, sampling lesser known
wines in search of value and quality
is the job of head sommelier, Crystal
Edgar as part of a new program aimed
at injecting some creativity, originality
and quality into the menu. A breath
of fresh air for many of the Asian
properties that are subject to random
circumstances at times.
“We are passionate about creating
approachable wine lists that are
easy to follow and lead to discovery.
Each bottle has been hand-picked
from an array of artisanal producers
around the world who represent the
core values of the Aman experience:
quality, craftsmanship, uniqueness
and passion,” explains Crystal.
The sommelier, who is based in
28 TASTE | September - October 2009
Amanusa
Beijing, once dreamed of being a
chef. Attending Culinary School in
New York she was introduced to wine
through a six week intensive course
that all students were required to do.
“It started me thinking that perhaps
this might be a career for me. Once
I left school and started to travel I
became more interested. To me it is a
link between the dining room and the
kitchen,” she continues.
The wine we enjoyed during our
lunch at Amanusa was a little known
Italian white from Il Palagione called
Hydra. Crystal explains that her
travels take her all over the world and
bring her into contact with many
wine makers. “This particular wine
is created using vernaccia grapes, a
traditional Italian variety, but the
wine maker tends to create twists on
the classics.”
The challenges associated with
wine supply in Indonesia have been
carefully navigated and Boga Citra,
one of the country’s most reliable
importers, was chosen as their local
partner to ensure that the wine arrives
at the resorts in peak condition.
Crystal tailors the wine lists at
different properties, dictated by the
weather and to take into account
local preferences. An average list will
consist of anywhere from 70 to over
100 varieties. The list will include
a few bottles of special vintage or
private collection wines and range in
price from reasonable to wow! (Local
taxes in Indonesia and other Asian
countries mean wines that start out
reasonably priced often end up not so
on our tables.)
For Indonesian properties in
particular, the introduction of the
Aman wine program is fantastic news.
Content as we have become to wine
lists created from what’s available as
opposed to what’s good, Aman may
find their restaurants full to the brim
with wine drinkers who will happily
pay for increased choice, quality
and the opportunity to sample an
unknown wine with the knowledge it
has been hand picked and its quality
is assured.
Royal Condiments
The kingdoms of Bali are magical, steeped in history and myths.
They are also the source of much of Bali’s exciting and authentic
culinary heritage.
It was therefore a rare privilege
to be invited to the unveiling of the
Kingdom of Karangesam’s sambal
festival held during August at Taman
Safari and Marine Park.
Our own Taste photographer
Dewandra Djelantik is the son of
the royal line and it was his mother,
Dewi Indrawati Djelantik wife of
the current head of the family Anak
Agung Made Dewandra Djelantik,
who worked with the chefs at Taman
Safari to bring an assortment of 30
sambals that have floated in and out
of imperial fashion over the last two
centuries.
Executive Chef at the Park, Mahadi,
was familiar with about half of these
recipes he claims as a result of working
together with Heinz Von Holzen at
Grand Hyatt during discovery for his
Sambal in the works
first book on Balinese cuisine.
Some of the other recipes however
are rarely seen anymore and have
fallen out of favour, as a result of
changing tastes.
It is astounding to the uninitiated Dewi Indrawati Djelantik with
General Manager Hans
how many flavours can be achieved by
combining ingredients which are used
every day in local households – from
coconuts to mangos to ingredients
that are unfamiliar to foreigners, like
pangi, that simply fall off the trees.
The festival was a great success
with guests who had the chance to
see the sambals being prepared as well
as sample them with a simple dish of
rice.
Taman Safari park is located on Jl.
Bypass Prof. Dr. Ida Bagus mantra
Km. 19.8, Gianyar.
PH: (0361) 950000. Chef Mahadi with a guest
September - October 2009 | TASTE 29
 market driven
Taking it to
The Streets
Almost every chef will tell
you that his food is only as
good as his ingredients. With
the popularity of Farmer’s
Markets growing across
the Western World, market
food is showcasing great
ingredients without the fuss,
and is inspirational on a
grass roots level.
30 TASTE | September - October 2009
Once a month, Sydney’s Good Food
market at Pyrmont close to Sydney
Harbour, sponsored by The Sydney
Morning Herald, is a major attraction
for food lovers. With producers from
all over the state setting up stalls and
showcasing their products, there
are also some great opportunities to
taste the products, many of which
are prepared simply to highlight the
flavours and textures. Anything goes;
from asparagus to kangaroo. Many
local chefs make the trip to find
specialist products and search for
anything new and different.
Sydney’s Kings Cross Market is
a microcosm of the larger event.
Held every week the market attracts
growers, artisan producers, hobby
farmers, bakers and bread makers.
The stalls offering baked goods and
hot food are testament to the quality
and variety available.
One stall where there is always
a queue is run by a former lawyer-
turned-homemaker who set up a
weekly market stall selling egg and
bacon rolls. These are so good that
1 3
even the radio jocks will advise you
to get down there on a Saturday
morning. Using finely sliced, honey-
smoked bacon and free-range eggs
that slowly dribble brilliant orange
yolk down your arm as you bite
through the fluffy ciabatta-style roll,
there are people who will tell you this
is the world’s best bacon and egg roll.
The coffee is ground and freshly
made as you order using organic
beans from Australian growers and
is another incredibly popular stall,
created by Toby’s Estate.
Brasserie Breads is the off-shoot of
the ever-popular Sydney restaurant
Bayswater Brasserie. When chef Tony
Pappas turned his hand to creating
artisan breads, Sydney cheered. Using
his original starter, his San Francisco-
style sourdough varieties are piled
high. With the characteristic bubbled
crust, they come in unbleached white,
wholemeal, and spelt. One of their
most popular loaves is studded with
whole cloves of caramelised garlic.
Their small assortment of cakes,
dense chocolate brownies and apple
crumble pies are moist and tasty and
especially good as the weather cools.
A van is equipped as a butcher stall
and offers high quality fresh meat
from the best suppliers including
the 1824 angus, kobe and wagyu
beef distributed in Indonesia by
Sukanda Djaya. Fish fresh from the
sea, a incredible range of local and
imported cheese sit beside. A small
producer who has recently launched
a range of gluten-free products is
featuring freshly baked pizzas using
their gluten free bases while alongside,
tables groaning with produce, both
organic and not, picked fresh for
the market, makes this a compact
gourmet paradise.
There is still room for tradition
and the ever-present Turkish gozleme
stall is busy as usual. With the female
members of the family, scarfed and
aproned, kneading and throwing
the oily, elastic dough which is then
passed over to the man of the house
who fills them with savoury fillings
like spinach and fetta (or a variety of
5
6
hard white cheese), savoury mince
and chicken or a combination, and
then folds and lays them on the flat
grill plate, cooks them crisp before
cutting them into eight portions to be
served simply with pieces of lemon.
The bakers are always busy;
with small hobby bakers starting
their prep three days before the
markets and offering beautiful
displays of flourless organic cakes,
tarts filled with custard and berries
or caramelised apples, home-style
cookies and delicate iced cakes which
are sold whole or in slices.
Reflecting the seasons is a role the
market plays and orchard owners pile
this season’s apples high while summer
brings the stone fruit growers out.
Around the world the growth
of markets is offering food lovers a 1 Gluten free, dairy free, healthy feast
chance to connect with producers and 2 The best bacon and egg roll?
sample food that is simply prepared 3 Tony Pappas, Brasserie Bread
but wonderful in translation. It is 4 Purka Estate showcase oils and vinegar
the food of the streets and often 5 Fresh from the farm
provides the inspiration for food of 6 Turkish gozleme
a finer type.
September - October 2009 | TASTE 31

Fine Dining
in Gili T
Gili Trawangan is a little island with a big reputation and is fast
becoming a major destination in itself. The only thing missing is
an upmarket restaurant, now that too has arrived.
White table cloths, silver service and a
menu brimming with contemporary
seafood dishes, imported beef,
vibrant salads, spectacular desserts
and Asian classics are unexpected on
the famously casual Lombok island.
Former Sydney chef Matthew
Blundell was content to leave the
kitchens as he and his partner
Di,Somerton, together with lawyer
and seafood enthusiast Made Ramlie,
ran the busy beachside hotel and
restaurant at The Beach House. A new
venture, Ko Ko Mo Villas however
called for a new restaurant concept
and so Matthew found himself going
back through some of his favourite
menus to invent a fine dining concept
32 TASTE | September - October 2009
for the little Gili.
“Ko Ko Mo has been a great
success from the start,” explains Di,
“and Matthew trained a whole new
kitchen crew, including our Executive
Sous Chef, Barkun, to create a menu
that is contemporary with lots of
seafood and a little bit of Sydney.”
Matthew is known to many in
Sydney for his years cooking in
some of the city’s favourite hangouts,
including Mario’s in East Sydney, a
lunch time legend in Sydney during
the ‘80’s, as well as the Cauldron, the
intimate restaurant come nightclub
for a discerning clientele.
Following a successful stint with his
own Double Bay restaurant Matthew
1 3
2 4
Looked to expanding his business
prospects in Sydney, until a chance
conversation saw him and his partner,
Di upping stakes and moving to
Lombok.
“I have been involved with the
food at The Beach House since the
beginning but haven’t been too hands
on in the kitchen until now.” Explains
Matthew. As Executive Chef as well
as part owner of the boutique villa
resort, Ko Ko Mo, Matthew says this
was a great project as it is the first
time he has been able to design the
kitchen he wanted.
“In the past I’ve always walked
into an existing kitchen. This time I
was able to design around a concept,
which included the creation of the
menu, an open kitchen that works
perfectly for the restaurant from
breakfast through to dinner.”
“When I conceived the menu I
looked back through all the years
and chose my favourites from a list
of specials. I then went through each
item with my sous chef and the team
of cooks. The results are great, I’m
really happy.”
Another business that Matthew
and business partner Made Ramlie are
involved in is seafood export and the
menu refects that with a great range
of fresh seafood and daily specials
including lobster pasta, a signature
seafood broth, selections of sashimi,
5
6
a wonderful stuffed rainbow trout 1 Peking Duck entree
served in a seafood bisque and fresh 2 steak tartare
local catch. 3 Behind the bar
4 Asian style seafood broth
The restaurant sits beside the sea
5 Fresh strawberry dacquoise
with a spectacular view and no matter
6 Matthew and Di
how many tables the staff lay outside
there is always a demand for more.
Timing and location combined with
style and experience have created
a new concept for Gili T that has
proved a stunning success.
Ko Ko Mo, Gili Trawangan,
Lombok, PH: +62 (0) 370 644169
Mob: +62 (0) 813 3974 7459
kokomogilit@ozemail.com.au
September - October 2009 | TASTE 33
At St. Regis
One of the most anticipated lunches on
this year’s calendar was without doubt
the St Regis Resort’s lunch. The Yak’s
Chef of the year, among his many other
accolades, put together a stunning menu
that showcased the akill of this kitchen
team. Boneka was the venue of choice for
the lunch with a capacity crowd pouring
in for a suitably memorable lunch.

At Mama’s
Mama’s German Restaurant in Kuta was
a change of pace from the many hotel
lunches BCP have hosted. The Legian
restaurant is a lelgend in this area with the
second generation now taking an active
role in the business. Showcasing the
many products the company produces
including a wide range of sausages and
salamis, members and guests enjoyed cold
beer, barbecue and plenty of pork.
 BCP Membership 2009
NAME COMPANY
Josef Zopf Aerowisata Catering Service
Vynna Indra Alam boga
Arry Afianto Alam boga
Hendra Noviar Amier Alam boga
David Smith Alam boga
Olaf Aistleitner Arena Sport Café
Alexander Erich Aston Kuta
Attila Koermoeczi Ayodya resort
Adrianto Bahana Gourmet Indonesia
Pramudya Bevan Bahana Gourmet Indonesia
Ketut Sukamara Bali Golf and Country Club
Endris Yuliawati Balivillas.com
Isabella Lin Balivillas.com
Peter Rieger Balivillas.com
Torsten Schubert Banyan Tree Maldives
Sugihanto Sachid Bapak Bakery
Franky Alexander Buana Agung Lestari
I Wayan Budiarsa Buana Agung Lestari
Nyoman Sudiarna Buana Agung Lestari
Andrew Skinner Bulgari
Heinz Von Holzen Bumbu Bali
Dennis Langlois Carrefour
Bayu Lagimin Classic Fine Foods
Dhany Parwanto Classic Fine Foods
I Gde Rastarama Classic Fine Foods
Ing Gerold Eichinger CV Raja Bamboo
I Nyoman Wirata Discovery Kartika Plaza
I Nyoman Candra Discovery Kartika Plaza
AA Rai Gunawan Discovery Kartika Plaza
Iwan hari Cahyo Discovery Kartika Plaza
Ni Made Suwartini Discovery Kartika Plaza
Made Sebastian Suanda Discovery Kartika Plaza
Johan Meyers
Terry Deweer
DP Kitchen
DP Kitchen
Eko Putranto Ecolab
Ernst Jaeck Grand Hyatt Bali
Wayan Widiana Grand Hyatt Bali
Saptono Grand Hyatt Bali
Sang Ketut Jiwa Griya Santrian Hotel
Leony Rossalia Hartono Holiday Inn
Philip Parfait Hu’u Bali
Jason Vito Suwantika Hu’u Bali
Bill Marinelli Ikan Segar Bali
Arie Sumartini Ikan Segar Bali
Rositha Wardhani Ikan Segar Bali
Thierry Brocard Indoguna Bali
I Nyoman Parwata Indoguna Bali
Sarita Sanowi Indoguna Bali
Wendy Jane Thomas Kevala Ceramics
Ralf Schmidt Kori Restaurant
I Gusti Nyoman Jaya Kori Restaurant
Markus Reichl Legian Beach Hotel
Ayu Suharyani Lotus Distribution
Bill Busch Lotus Distribution
Henny Santoso Lotus Distribution
Jeff Matthews Mandara Spa
Yannis Van Heckerer Mannekepis Bistro
Hidayat Megah Food Trading
Ketut Sumatra Melia Benoa
Christopher J Salans Mozaic
Juergen Domani Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Katarina Sari Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
I Made Sudana Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Stefan Mueller Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
36 TASTE | September - October 2009
NAME COMPANY YOUNG CHEFS UPDATE
Darren Lauder Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
Both ACP Jakarta and BCP in Bali are
I Ketut Mudana Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
I Gusti Agung Alit Subawa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa putting their experience, support and
Reto Victor Torriani Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa sponsorship behind the chefs of the future.
Ni Ayu Winarmi Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa WACS throughout the world are active in
Christian Gerart Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa promoting young chefs and exposing them
Ketut Pong Atmajaya Padma Bali to international events and competitions
Wayan Nurisa Padma Bali encouraged by legendary South African
John Taylor Padma Bali
Chef Bill Gallagher. Although he is now
Ian Roberts Pamerindo
Kadek Widiantara Papa’s Café retired WACS have commemorated his
Jahn Roger Pepito Café work with young people by introducing
Jimmy Julianto Pica Tapas scholarship programs in his name.
Dewi Rusmala Pica Tapas Throughout Asia, including Indonesia, more young chefs are finding themselves at
Carlos Vinas Barmona Pica Tapas international events and proving they are ambitious, creative and willing to work with
Haryanto Mulia PT Aromaduta Rasa Prima more senior chefs to make their mark.
Adrianto Mulia PT Aromaduta Rasa Prima
President of Bali’s young chefs association, and commi at Bulgari, Alex Tanuhardja
Ni Wayan Santo Asih PT Aromaduta Rasa Prima
Winyoto PT Asri Indonesia will head to Chile in January to assist the resort’s Executive Sous Chef Wicaya to represent
Dienly Wong PT Asri Indonesia all of Asia in the next Global Chefs Challenge. Meanwhile other young chefs who have yet
Simon Yap PT Asri Indonesia to have international experience are being hand picked for exposure to the world stage.
Anik Purwati PT Hocatsu Bali Vice President BCP, Darren lauder, Executive Chef of Nusa Dua Beach Hotel, works
Mahesa Dentha PT Hocatsu Bali closely with the Young Chefs and has chosen Jason Suwantika to attend Singapore’s On
Ida Ayu Sutamaya PT Hocatsu Bali The Edge Festival which will feature a number of Asian chefs.
Jayadi PT Masuya Graha Trikencana
Currently working as a trainee to chef Philip Mimbimi at Nutmegs Restaurant, Hu’u
I Made Manahara PT. Sukanda Djaya
Izwantini PT. Sukanda Djaya Bar, Bali Jason is young, keen and motivated. A graduate of Sunrice College in Singapore,
Rusli C.J. Lokman PT. Sukanda Djaya he is a young Indonesian chef who has grown up overseas. Like most of the members of
Neeta Malhotra Queens tandoor the Young Chefs Clubs worldwide, he is ambitious and hard working and has big plans.
Made Budiasa Pendit Sanur Beach Aerowisata We wish him luck.
Sven Hollinger Satria Pangan Sejati
Rick Bolt Smart Energy
Mr Robert Jansen
Tutik Yantini
Soejasch
Soejasch Next BCP Lunch
Enny Kudung Soejasch Venue : Holiday Inn Resort
Brandon Huisman The Bale Address : Jl. Wana Segara 33 Tuban
I Wayan Sudiana The Bali Khama
Day/date : Saturday, 31st October 2009
Jacky Ames The Beach House
Nigel Ames The Beach House Time : 12.30
Ida Bagus Partama The Laguna
Aprin Sukarno Putra The Laguna
Ridwan The Laguna
Nyoman Wijana The Laguna
I Made Linggi The Laguna
I Made Putra The Laguna
I Wayan Sudarsana The Samaya
I Gede Juastra The Samaya
Ray Clark The Samaya
Michael Shaheen The Samaya
I Made Lugra The Samaya
Markus Krickelberg The Westin
Taste the fragrant flavor of
Budhi Setiawan Tedja Tirta Sakti Mandiri
Ni Made Kariani Tirta Sakti Mandiri our aromatic Vanilla Beans
Shirkandi (lulu) Tirta Sakti Mandiri on your delicious cuisine
Renaud Le Rasle Ubud Hanging Gardens
Claire Quinn Villa Coco
Made Witha Witha Bakery
Dean Keddel
Helmut Walter Schafer Pandu Rasa
Daud L Pakpahan Bali Bird Park
Hand selected
Raul Deschu Padma Bali
gourmet vanilla beans
Agus Wiryawan Banyan Tree black, glossy, supple and
Christian Hinckley Amandari evocative aroma
export P. +62 361 7952199 | M. +62 81 338584080
experiences
F. +62 361 240861 | E. bajaku@yahoo.com
 chefs day-out
Sambal
on the High
by Kayti Denham
Onboard the beautiful Al-Isra, a
wooden phinisi, the kitchen is tucked
under the stairs in between the main
sleeping cabins and the rear wall of
the crew berths. There is just enough
room for one person to stand and any
other movement must be done from
that one standing spot by pivoting.
Chef Joseph had pivoting down
to a fine art, and from this miniscule
space he conjured up and brought
forth meals of such quality freshness
and flavor it inspired the desire to
squeeze in for a cooking lesson.
With his audience hanging over
the stairwell Joseph gave the onboard
guests a detailed demonstration of
how to make the sambals. The use
of a variety of indigenous spices gave
each meal a distinct flavour and while
the meals themselves were ‘simple’
they were tasty and satisfying.
The basic ingredients were garlic,
salt, fresh chilies and olive oil of good
quality oil that imparted a fruity
flavour into the mixture.
38 TASTE | September - October 2009
Seas
To this base Joseph added his own
combination of ingredients to create
the different sambals, the tomato
sambal was served with chicken, the
candlenut and ginger sambal was
used to coat the prawns and squid for
a delicious salad and the tumeric and
lemongrass sambal was the baste for a
huge whole Trevally.
The best sambals are made using
an ‘olek’, or mortar and pestle made
from heavy stone and although you
can use a blender the maceration of
the mortar and pestle is better for the
flavour of the sambal as electronic
mashing can create a bitterness in
garlic.
TOMATO SAMBAL
Crush garlic with salt in a heavy
mortar, add a drizzle of olive oil, add
a pinch of powdered coriander seeds
and the juice of two small lemons
along with chopped red chillies.
Continue to pound until chilies
incorporated into the mix. Take four
roughly chopped tomatoes and add
them to the mortar and make a final
rough pound so that the sambal is
chunky.
CANDLENUT AND GINGER
SAMBAL
Using the base mix of garlic salt and
oil add two peeled candle nuts and
the sliced root of ginger, about 2cms,
slices of tumeric root and chopped
baby onions and lemongrass stalks.
Pound until mashed into a paste. This
sambal can be used as a paste for any
type of meat or tofu and with the
addition of coconut flesh and milk
can be turned into a tropical spicy
marinade that is perfect for seafood.