Dresses and Jumpers

THE SHIFT FOUNDATION3 TO 6X AND 7 TO 14 . . . .718 Shift Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .718 Princess Styleline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .719 Princess Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .719 Darts and Dart Equivalents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .721 Empire with Flare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .722 Empire Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .722 TENT FOUNDATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .724 Tent Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .724 Bib TentA Variation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .725 Bib Tent Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .725 Torso Jumper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .726 Torso Jumper Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .726

34
chapter

717

718

Chapter 34

THE SHIFT FOUNDATION3 TO 6X AND 7 TO 14

The shift draft is based on the basic bodice patterns. The shift foundation is the base for designs such as the princess, empire, and torso-length dresses, to which gathered or pleated skirts are attached.

Shift Draft
Figures 1, 2 Trace front and back patterns and all markings, including darts. Extend center front line to the desired length and square across and up to the armhole. Square across the back pattern to the armhole and square down equal to side length of the front. Square across the hem and up to center back. Mark a point 1/2 to 3/4 inch in from mid-point of the side seam. Label X. Add 1 1/2 to 2 inches out at the side seams for an A-line silhouette. Mark a point 1/4 inch up and draw a curved hemline.
Figure 1
SHIFT FOUNDATION

Draw side seam from hem to Point X, and connect to the armhole, as illustrated. Blend at X. Cut the front shift from paper. Darts. Extend lines through center of the darts to length indicated. Draw dart legs to waistline. Cut the patterns from the paper. Complete the patterns for the test fit. The basic sleeve completes the pattern set (see pages 704 and 705 for sleeve draft).

Figure 2

SHIFT FOUNDATION

BACK

FRONT

1/2 " to 3/4 " Blend X Waist 4" Hip 3" Blend X Waist

Hip

1 1/2 " to 2 "

1/4 "

DRESSES AND JUMPERS

719

Princess Styleline
The princess styleline is an appropriate foundation for sizes 3 to 6X and 7 to 14.

Design 2

Design Analysis
The princess styleline (to mid-shoulder or to midarmhole) is a popular base for a variety of designs. (Decrease the dart intake to half the amount for such designs.) Flare can be added to each panel (from the waist) or to any point along the goreline. Godets are also a source of flare (see pages 284285). Flare is part of the shift pattern. Add additional flare to the side seams, to balance the design, if necessary. Designs 1 and 2 are but a few of the ideas that can be developed from the princess pattern.
Design 1

Figure 1

Figure 2

BACK

FRONT

Princess Draft
Figures 1, 2 Trace the front and back shift patterns. Plot the style from the mid-shoulder and the mid-armhole (uneven broken lines). The styleline touches the dart point. Draw lines from the dart points to hem, parallel to front and back center lines.

720

Chapter 34
Figure 4

Figure 3 Figures 3, 4, 5, 6 Cut patterns apart along princess line. The waist dart is cut out. Trace the patterns and add flare (width as desired). The flare is equal to each side of the front and back panels. Add to the side seam to balance the design, if necessary. Blend line through the waist area for a loose fit. If a closer fit is desired, follow the dart legs. Front Side Panel

Front Panel

Blend

Blend

Figure 5 BACK Panel

Figure 6

Back Side Panel

Add flare

Add flare

Add flare

Blend

Blend

Add flare

Add flare

Add flare

DRESSES AND JUMPERS

721

Darts and Dart Equivalents

The basic front and back bodice patterns contain darts. Darts, which provide excess, are best used in forms other than stitched darts for children sizes 3 to 6X. The dart excess can be controlled with elastic or ties to help define the nebulous area designated as the waistline, if a waistline must be defined (see Designs 1 and 2). Yoke stylelines and those that rest relatively near the armholes (such as the empire) provide the greatest freedom, the best proportion, and a high degree of flexibility in fit without the need for darts (see Designs 3 and 4). Darts are primarily used in designs to help define the developing bustline for girls sizes 7 to 14 (see Design 5 and Design 6). Empire with flare and leg-o-mutton sleeve follows.

Design 1

Design 2

Design 5

Design 6

Design 4

Design 3

722

Chapter 34

Empire with Flare

The shift foundation is the base for designs with stylelines passing under the bust line and for those not having a waistline seam. The bodice darts are generally not stitched for empire designs for sizes 3 to 6X (see page 721, Designs 3 and 4).

Design Analysis
Designs 5 and 6 are for sizes 7 to 14. The empire styleline is plotted through an open dart. Slash lines are marked on the lower pattern, where flare and a pleat give the skirt its fullness. For sleeve options, see Chapter 33. A leg-o-mutton sleeve completes the design.

Empire Draft
Figures 1 a, b Front Trace the front shift pattern. Mark darts. Plot the pattern, using illustration, design, size, and height of the model as a guide. Empire Styleline Mark bust point (not dart point) and mark half the dart length to the waist. Label X. Square a guideline from center front to side seam, touching X. Draw the empire curved styleline about one-third the distance between neck and waist. Start at the center front up to the dart leg X. Continue the empire styleline from the other dart leg (at the same length distance), curving the styleline to side seam. (AB) Take in 1/4 to 1/2 at the side (a). Measure out 1/8 from each dart leg at the empire styleline (closer fit) and redraw dart legs to dart point. Mirror bust dart below styleline (broken lines). Back Trace the back pattern and trim 1/4 (eliminating shoulder ease) from shoulder tip, blending to armhole curve. Plot the pattern as illustrated (b). CD AB (front pattern). Add a 3/4 inch extension at center back. Cut and separate front and back patterns.

Figure 1a
1" 1/2 " 1/3 to waist

Figure 1b
1" 3/4 "

FRONT A B Under bust

BACK C D

Box pleat

Slash

Slash

Slash

Slash

Slash

Slash

Figures 2 c, d Trace the front and back empire bodice. The shaded area is a facing guide.
Figure 2c Figure 2d

BACK

FRONT
Cut on fold

Slash

DRESSES AND JUMPERS Figure 4 Prepare paper for the folded pleat. Square a line representing the waist and hemline. Draw a center front line B. Measure out 1 inch from B line and 2 1/2 inches at the hemline. Draw connecting lines, as shown. Fold on the C line to A line. Place the lower pattern on the foldline of the folded pleat. Trace to the first dart leg and at the hemline. Figure 5 Remove the skirt and slash. Return the pattern. Close the dart leg and secure slashed pieces. The open space AB can be repeated at each slashed line with half the amount added to the side seam (CD equals half of AB). Trace the remaining outer lines of the slashed pattern. Use tracing wheel across the folded pleat and add 1/2-inch seams at the empire styleline. Sweep of the back skirt equals the front skirt without the pleat (not illustrated). Complete the patterns and test fit. Add seams to all patterns.
Figure 4
Paper's edge

723

1"

1"

Waistline

C 2-1/2 "

Center Front
A Hemline 2-1/2 "

Foldline

Paper's edge

Foldline

Figure 5
Ble
d

FRONT

Close dart

D C

Figure 6a
A B 4" E

Figure 6b
A 2" 2" B

B A

3" 3"

Grainline

3" 3"

Figures 6 a, b Leg-of-Mutton Sleeve Trace the basic sleeve to preferred length and draw slash lines (a). Cut and slash the lines. Spread, as shown (b). Retrace and add seams.

(a)

(b)

Center Front

Foldline Foldline

724

Chapter 34
Figure 1

TENT FOUNDATION
The tent foundation is appropriate for girls sizes 3 to 6X and 7 to 14. The basic tent is based on the shift foundation (page 718).

Tent Draft
Figure 1 Trace the front and back shift. Mark dart for reference of the bust point and waist level for use as guidance for possible styleline placements. Plot slashes from hem to curve of the armhole. Cut slashes to, but not past, curve line of the armhole. Spread the hem from 3 to 5 inches. Retrace and add flare to the side seam that is onehalf, or one-third of the spread area. Draw the side seam, blending just above the waistline. Repeat instructions for the back pattern.

Add flare

Figure 2

Figure 3

Spread

Front and Back Tent Patterns

Figures 2, 3 Add seams and extend the center back, 3/4". Cut and test fit.

BACK Example

FRONT

Assignment Suggestion
Create a block design for the front and back tent foundation. An example is shown, but the blocking can be varied: color circles, rectangles, abstract shapes, appliqus, tie dye, lace insets, mixed fabric textures, hand painted designs, etc. Sleeves and collars can be added. Display the tent designs for classroom discussion. What made each design work and what could be improved?
Fold

3/4 "

DRESSES AND JUMPERS

725

Bib TentA Variation

Design Analysis
Fullness is gathered along the upper bust line, under the bust, and parallel above the hemline. Gathers fit to the models body except at the hemline, where gathers are less to allow for an A-line silhouette. A tape secures hem gathers.

Bib Tent Draft

Figure 1 Trace the front and back tent foundation patterns. Plot stylelines (in blue) on both the front and back. Choose skirt length and the gather guideline. Cut shoulder straps 1 1/2 22. Trim to fit. Front AB 3 more or less, and square across the pattern. Label C. BD BC. EF Aligned with under-bust location. Square a line across the pattern. FG 1/2. Draw line to dart leg. Back HI EG. Square from center back to this mark.
Figure 1
A Facing is shaded area C 3/4 " H I
Gather

3 " down B
Gather

3/4 "
Gather

BACK

E G 1/2 " F Gather guidelines

FRONT

Gather

Stitching Suggestion Overlock seams at hem and across chest. Stitch flat lace or rickrack trim to edges. Gathering 2 to 3 rows with elastic thread will fit the body shape. Threads pulled for gathers will need a tape on the back of each row to secure fit. Complete the pattern for a test fit.
Gather

Gather

726

Chapter 34

Torso Jumper
The dartless pattern is used as a base for dresses not having a waistline. It is appropriate for sizes 3 to 6X and 7 to 14.

Design Analysis
Design has low-cut armholes and neckline. The back is based on the front pattern. If the necklines vary, trace the front pattern to design the back neckline.

Torso Jumper Draft

Figure 1 Trace the dartless front pattern. Plot the pattern, using the illustration, design, size, and height of the model as a guide. Follow blue lines. Mark torso and square across. Add width to the skirt for gathers, as desired. Cut patterns from paper and separate the pattern parts (A for upper torso and B for skirt). Back Retrace front torso pattern for back jumper, shifting the shoulder strap toward the back (broken lines). Complete the pattern for a test fit.
Figure 1
Strap for back patten

FRONT

Waist Pocket wider at top Trace from pattern A Separate bodice from skirt (B)

2 to 1 fullness B

Cut on fold