ao Sep tem ber, 1900

VOL. X V I., NO. 12 (WHOLE NUMBER 406).

PRICE

TEN

CENTS

TH R EE DOLLARS A YEAR

PUBLICATION OFFICE, J WEST 2<JTH STR EET, NEW YORK

A U T U M N .T R A V E L I N G C O A T

V .V .V .V .V *VA V .V A V VAVAVA V0CUE AVAVAV * * * * / * * * * * * * * * * * *

B U S IN E S S N O T IC E S
V o g u e is issued w e e k ly on T h u r sd a y s . H e ad o ffice , 3 W e s t 19 th S tre e t, N ew Y o r k . C a b le A d d re s s: V o g u e , N ew Y o r k . L o n d o n : A rth u r A ck e rm a n , 191 R e g e n t S tre e t. P a r is : Em . T e r q u e m , 19 R u e S crib e . S ub scrip tion for the U n ite d S tate s, C a n a d a and M e x ic o , three dollars a y e a r in ad v an ce , postage free. F or fo re ig n co u n tries in th e p ostal u n io n , four dollars a y e a r , p ostag e fr e e . R em it by c h e c k , draft or postal or e xp ress m o n ey ord er. O th er rem ittan ces at send e r's r is k . S in g le cop ies ten ce n ts. M an uscrip ts must b e accom pa n ied w ith p ostage for th e ir return i f found u n a va ilab le . V o g u e assum es no res p o n s ib ility for u n solicited m anu scrip ts e x ce p t to accord th em courteous atten tio n and o rd in ary ca re. W ra p p e r D a te s . T h e date p rinted on the w rap per o f e ach co p y d enotes th e tim e w h en th e su bscription e x p ir e s. C h a n g e o f ad d ress. T h e address o f subscriber* w ill be ch an g e d as often as d esired . In ord erin g a ch a n g e o f address both the old and th e n ew address m ust b e g iv e n . T w o w e e k s no tice to be g iv e n . Com plaints, S ubscribers -whof a i l f t receive a sing le copy o f Vogue sho uld im m ediately n o tify th e Head O f fice . Readers w ho are unable to p u rcha se Vogue at any new s-stand o r on any ra ilro a d tr a in or steamboat w ill con fer a fa v o r by prom p tly reportin g the f a c t .

ROBES AND GOWNS

HATS AND BONNETS

M L
a

E .

V .

IMPORTER AND MAKER

G
Y

n
M ARRIED De Coppet-Greene. On 15 Sept., at
the residence o f the bride, 35 E . 50th S t., by the Rev. Frederick E. Mortimer, Mrs. Adele Thorn Greene to Louis Cassimir de Coppet. Holbrcok-McKinney. O n S at., 8 Sept., at Terrace Place, Titusville, P a ., by the Rev. Albert Jay N o ck D .D ., Elliot Han ford Holbrook, o f Yonkers-on-Hudson, to Charlotte Gertrude, only daughter o f James Curtis M cK inney, Esq., o f Titusville, Pa.

S tre e t, R e c e p tio n , W e d d in g an d E v e n in g G o w n s 55 W e s t 4 5th S t ., b e t. 5th an d 6th A v e s ., N ew Y o r k

EXCLUSIVE DESIGNS IN HATS AND BONNETS i l l W e s t 4 id S tre e t, N ew Y o r k

v i c t o i r e

c o r s a g e

O U M A N S

H A T S

A novel id e a , p aten te d A u g u s t 9 th , 1898. A fford s ease w ith p erfe ct fit. M m e. M arie E lise d e L a to u r, D e sign er and C o u tu r ie r e , 574 F ifth A ven u e, N ew Y o r k .

ROUND HATS AND BONNETS 11 0 7-110 9 B ro a d w a y SEND FOR BOOKLET OF STYLES

h.

f i e l d i n g

&

c<%.

SUMMER GOWNS L in e n s , D im itie s and O rg an d ie s 19 E. J i s t S tre e t, N . Y . C ity

M ILLINERS BONNETS AND ROUND HATS 14 W e s t l i d S tre e t, N e w Y o r k

C.

W E I N G A R T E N

H M

LAD IES TA ILO R AND FURRIER R id in g H a b its and D r iv in g C o a ts 37 W e s t j l s t S tre e t, N e w Y o r k

IMPORTER AND DESIGNER OF FINE M ILLINERY 38 W e s t 33d S tre e t, N e w Y o r k

DIED
S chieffelin. On T h u ., 13 Sept., Sam uel Bradhurst Schieffelin, in his 90th year. W e e k s . A t New Rochelle, N . Y . , on F ri., 14 Sept., Antoinette Mataran, beloved wife o f Bartow S . W eeks.

I S S

L A W R E N C E

F o r m e r ly w ith B. A ltm a n & C o . , D ress m ak ers an d Im porters o f S treet, E v e n in g , and T a il o r G o w n s . 1} W est 49th S t., N ew Y o r k .

&

O rig in a l D e sign s in H a ts , B on n ets and H ead-dresses 19 E . 3 is t S t., N e w Y o r k

E N G A G E M E N TS

En tered at N . Y . C i t y P . O . as 2d C la ss M atter.

M.

W E I N

G A R T E N

LA D IES t a i l o r a n d i m p o r t e r W ALK ING AND DRIVING COSTUMES 34 W e s t 35th S t ., N ew Y o r k

M RS.

W. S H E R B R O O K E P O P H A M

Dominick-Stout. Miss Ethel Gardner

D ominick, daughter o f M r. Bayard Dom inick, to M r. Andrew V arick Stout, son o f M r. Joseph S. Stout. Jarvis-McElroy. Miss Anna M . Jarvis, daughter o f Mrs. Algernon Sudney Jarvis, o f W hite Plains, N . Y . , to M r. Sydney M cElroy, J r., o f N ew Y o rk .

Readers not finding V ogue on sale at any place, however remote from N ew Y o r k , will please communicate with the Head Office, 3 W est 29th Street, and a supply w ill be pro vided forthwith.

W il l return from P a ris ab ou t S e p t. 1st w ith th e la te s t n ov e lties in M illin e r y . 34 W e s t 36th S t ., N ew Y o r k

A.
o

P
A

A
T

M
M

E
A

*8 W e s t 35th S tre e t, N e w Y o r k

CORSETS AND TROU SSEAUX

ao S E P T E M B E R , 1900

IM PORTER OP ROBES E v e n in g G o w n s a S p ec ia lty I I W e s t 30'h S tre e t, N e w Y o r k

M
M

ISS

T.

T.

S C H N E I D E R

CORSETIERE F in e C u stom C o rse ts and F ren ch L in g e r ie * 9 1 5th A v e ., b et. 30th and j l s t S ts.

W ED D IN G S De Coppet-Greene. M r. Casimir de
Coppet and M rs. Adele T . Greene were mar ried at the residence o f the bride, 35 E. 50th S t., on Sat., 15 Sept., at 4 o clock, the Rev. Frederick M ortim er officiating. Best man, M r. Ernest Howell de Coppet. Ushers, M r Irwin Sw ith, M r. Harry Bartol. Present were : M r. and Mrs. Robert Stuyvesant, M r. A . V an Horne Stuyvesant, M r. and M rs. Barclay, M r. and M rs Charles Grenville Peters, Miss de Peyster, M r. and Mrs. M itchell Depew, M r. T . C . Delevan, M rs. T . P. Hart, Miss Hart, M rs. Greene, Mrs. W illiam P. Draper, Miss Alice Greene, M r. and Mrs. Eugene T horn Kirkland, M r. Charles P . Kirkland, Mrs. John Ellis, M rs. W illiam Barclay Parsons, M rs. Ernest H . de Coppet, M r. Theakston de Cop pet, M r. Wilson de Peyster, M rs. Clarkson, M r. and M rs. Robert B. Roosevelt, Jr., M r. and Mrs. Charles Elliott Pell.

A ll they need but not more than they need to supply their regular custom ersis the basis of newsdealers' ordersfo r Vigue. Persons tuho expect to get Vogue regularly from a newsdealer should order in advance. Orders for extra copies of a current number very often cannot be filled by the publisher much to the disappointment of all concerned. Often also, the edition of Vogue is completely ex hausted within three days after publication. A definite order to a newsdealer or a sub scription art the only certain ways of getting Vogue withoutfail.

E O D O R E

B.

D A L E

M E .
5*

G A R D N E R

IM PORTING DRESSMAKER R e c e p tio n , C a rr ia g e and E v e n in g T o ile tte s 75 W e s t 44th S t., an d at S a ra to g a , N e w Y o r k

CUSTOM-MAD* CORSETS S ilk P ettic o a ts a S p e c ia lty W e s t l i s t S tre e t, N ew Y o i k

CONSTANT

QJ J E L L E R

LA D IES TA ILO R AND DRESSMAKER S treet and E v e n in g D resses 70 W e st 39th S tre e t, M ew Y o r k

L a te st M od els in C o rse ts and L in g e r ie , T r a G o w n s ,N e g lig e e s, M atin ee s and S ilk S k irts. T r o u s s e a u x a S p e c ia lt y . 13 W e s t 30th S t ., N . Y .

M
B

a r g a r e t

m u r t h a

F
M

r E R T H E M A Y
D RESSMAKER AND IM PORTER M a k e r o f th e D o cto rs C o rse t

FASHIONABLE DRESSM AKING 437 F ifth A v e n u e , N ew Y o r k

1*5 W e s t 56th S tre e t, N ew Y o r k

ISS

W O T H E R S P O O N
LA BELLE HELENE CORSET C o rse ts rep aired ,lau n d e red an d co p ied . T h e A r t o f P ro p e r D r e s s in g tau g h t, i x V\ est zxn d S tre e t, N ew Y o r k .

IN D E X S o c i e t y ......................................... ii, iii S e e n on th e S t a g e D e sc rip tio n s o f F a s h io n s .

i;i

GOWNS AND WRAPS L in e n and O rg an d ie D resses a S p e c ia lty . P r ic e s v e r y m od erate. 365 F ifth A v e ., b e t. 34th an d 55th S t s ., N e w Y o r k .

RS.

M.

H.

W R I G H T

. iii, vii

ROEES A fte rn o o n and E v e n in g G o w n s 45 W e s t 45th S tre e t, b e tw e e n 5th an d 6th A ve n u e s

..

IN T IM A TIO N S

Belmont. M rs. Oliver Belmont has gone

S P E C IA L NOTICES to the Virginian H o t Springs to spend several weeks. Chard. M r. and Mrs Thornton Chard will sail on Saturday for Europe to spend the winter in Paris. Emmet. M r. and M rs. Robert Emmet TOILET ARTICLES

S o c ia l T o p ic s T h e Laziness o f the Leisure-class Girl . . . 1 7 8 H a p h a z a rd J o ttin g s . . . 1 8 0 182 183

. SAFFO RD BARSTO W CHILDRENS M R SN o w w ith G E R A L D L Y O N

LA D IES TAILOR 54X F ifth A v e n u e , N e w Y o r k C i t y

P A R T I E S

T h e M i s s e s W h i t e w ill t a k e e n tire ch a rg e o f th e E n te r ta in m e a t, g iv in g A ftern oon s of G a m es , S to rie s and F a iry T a l e s , D a n c in g . A d d ress D E A N 'S , 5 7 1 F i f t h A v e . , N e w Y o r k .

F e a th e r F e e t fiction W h a t She W ears

G l i m p s e s ...................................................183 S e e n in th e S h o p s S m a rt F a s h io n s I n c o me s . . W h e n D in in g O u t A s S e e n b y H im T h e W e ll- D r e s s e d M a n W h a t T h ey R ead O n th e B o o k C o u n te r V o g u e s W e e k ly P a tte rn W h is p e r s . F o r th e H o s te s s R e q u e s ts for P a tte r n s . . . . for L im ite d . . . . 1 8 6 187p 187 188 188 190
I 190

GOWNS S hort S k irts and S hirts a S p e c ia lty . Sm art A u tu m n G o w n s from $ n up w h e n m a te ria l is fu rn ish ed . 101 E ast 65th S tre e t, C o r . P a r k A v e .

N
m

PROFESSIONAL CARDS

G
C S
B
U

DESIGNER OF LAD IKS* COSTUMES 3*7 F ifth A v e n u e , N e w Y o r k O p p o site W a ld o r f-A sto r ia

O n D resses. C o r d , B ra id , B e a d , S p an g le and L a ce W o r k . N. A . H o sh a fia n , D e sign er and M an u factu re r, 118 S ix th A v e n u e , N e w Y o r k , b e tw e e n 14 and !5 th S tr e e ts .

A n o v e l t y ; th e g r e a te st co n v e n ie n c e and e co ro n my t. I If* i/nn a not k n ___1 __ l . . a re , e nn om f yo u do ow w h at . th e.y c a l l, e x a m in e ; y o u w ill b e d e lig h te d . L a P arfu m e u s e ,9 4 5 B r o a d w a y .

P ...-....
A P I E R

POUDRfi

B O O KS

H AIRDRESSING

&

C O .

DRESSMAKERS AND IMPORTERS 105 W e s t 45th S tre e t, N e w Y o r k B e tw e e n B r o a d w a y an d S ix th A v e n u e

O f e v e r y d e sc rip tio n m ade b y hand an d b y m a c h in e r y . O rd ers e x e c u te d at short n o tic e . A u g u s t B l i q u e z , 256 S ix th A v e n u e , b e tw e e n 16th an d 17 th Streets.

w ' t *1 A . S im o n s o n ), L a d i e s H a i r D r e s s in g . S p ec ia list in H a ir C o lo rin g , S h a m p ooin g and S ca lp T r e a t m e n t , H um an H a ir G o o d s , Shell O rn am e n ts, e tc. 13 W . 09th S tre e t. T e le p h o n e , 856 M ad iso n S q uaie

A R A A.

C U R R A N H. B E C K

A N D

192 . 1 9 2 192 192

IM PORTERS AND DRESSMAKERS L A D IE S TAILORS 414 M ad iso n A v e n u e , N e w Y o r k C i t y

P la in an d A r tis tic , in a ll v a rie tie s o f le a th e r , at m o d erate p rice s. H e n ry B la c k w e ll, U n i versity P la c e , C o r . 10th S t., N . Y .

M
G ood s. w h ere.

T H O M P S O N

F o r m e r ly o f 5th A v e n u e , rem oved to 10 ff 'e t t 22d S tree t, w ith a fu ll lin e o f B e au tifu l H a ir N o v e ltie s fo r th e fron t h a ir not found e ls e

H A T* AND GOWNS 487 F ifth A ve n u e B e tw e e n 4 1st an d 4 id Streets

A ll m a te ria ls used b y th e d ressm ak in g trad e d y e d and cle a n e d . R e a l la c es cle an e d and m ended. R e fe r e n c e s . M a e . P a u lin e , 1 1 1 W e s t 17 th S tre e t, N e w Y o r k .

aces

d yed

t o

m a tc h

g o w n s

SH OPPIN G C OMMISSIONS

ROBES AND GOWNS

14 W e s t 45th S tre e t, N e w Y o r k Im porter o f L a te st P a r is ia n M o d e ls. T a ilo r m ade G o w n s a s p e c ia lty . T e le p h o n e N o. }8 2 }-j8 th .

M ME.
^

IN D IA

SU TH ER LAN D
TO IL E T ARTICLES

A n e x p e r ie n c e d b u y e r w ill fill m a il ord ers fo r p erso n al an d h ouseh old a rticle s o f e v e iy d e .c r ip 'io n . R e fe r e n c e s . M is i G . C a t e , 2 1 E ast 16 th S tre e t, N e w Y o r k .

EW

YORK

S H O P P IN G F R E E

B.

T
.L /

l Ad ie s t a il o r

im p o r t e r a n d D RESSMAKER 10 W e s t J5th S t ., n e ar 5th A v e .

510 F ifth A v e n u e . N e w Y o r k . an d E v e n in g G o w n ) a s p e c ia lty . o rd e rs co m p leted i i r i 4 b o ars.

D e b u tan te M o u rn in g

W il l soften an d w h ite n the s k in in a few ap p lica tio n s . C o n tin u e d use p o sitiv e ly rem oves w rin k le s or m o n ey ch e e r fu lly refun d ed . P r ic e , by m a il, >1.50. O l i v e R o b a r t Sc C o ., 347 F ifth A v e n u e , o p p . W a ld o r f- A s to r ia .

L E I N

S K I N

F O O D

M ILLINER Y

A I S N

N O U V E L L E "

310 W a b a s h A v e . , C h i c a g o . (U n d er A u d ito iiu m H o te l.) C a ir y th e la rg es t and fin est s to c k in the W e s t. P r ic e s co rre ct.

sailed last week on thoTeutonic for a brief visit to France and England. K a n e . Col. and Mrs. Delancey A . Kane have again opened their country place, the Pad docks, at New Rochelle for the autumn. M i l l s . M r. and Mrs. Ogden M ills have left Newport and opened their country place on the Hudson for the autumn. Schieffelin. M r. and Mrs. W illiam Jay Schieffelin will spend the autumn with Mrs. Elliot F. Shepard at Scarborough-on-the-Hudson. T w o m b l y . M r. and Mrs. Hamilton M c K . Tw om bly and the Misses Twom bly sailed from Europe yesterday.

CORRESPONDENCE
N e w p o r t . T h e event o f the waning sea son at Newport was the marriage last w eek o f Miss Harriet Ive* Gammell to M r. Thomas Shaw Safe, o f England, which took place in Emmanuel Church on 12 Sept. T h e Rev. Emery H . Porter officiated. T h e maid o f honor was Miss Virginia Gammell. T h e ushers were Messrs. F. Gray Griswold, Graf ton Cushing, George Griswold (second), J. Neilson Howard, Dennison Slade and D . Berkeley Updike. T h e bride was given away by her brother, M r. R . T . Gammell, and wore a gown ot white satin, embroidered with silver and pearls. Her veil o f point lace was held in place by a wreath o f orange blossoms. T h e guests were M r. and Mrs. j j . I* Gard ner, M r. and Mrs. M axwell Greene, Miss Hazard, M r. and Mrs. Howard Hoffman, Miss Sarah Hoffman, M r. C. L . A . Hiser, M r. and Mrs. C . A . Hoffin, Miss Hoffin, M r. and Mrs. Elisha Howard, Mrs. Astor, M r. and M rs. F. VV. Andrews, M r. and Mrs. Paul A . Andrews, M r. F. W . Andrews, Jr., M r. W alter Andrews, Prof. Alexander Agassiz, Mrs. Auchincloss, Miss Auchincloss, Mrs. C. H . Baldwin, Mrs. Isaac Bell, M r. and Mrs. S. F. Barger, Mrs. Barger W allack, Miss Barger, VIrs. C . C . Perkins, Miss Betton, Miss Leary, M r. and Mrs. A . Livingston Mason, Dr. and Mrs. J. J. Mason, M r. John O Conor, M r. James V . Parker, Mrs. C . C. Pomeroy, Miss Greta Pomeroy, M rs. Fred erick Pearson, M r. and Mrs. Louis B. M eCagg, M r. and M rs. Hermann Oelrichs, Col. and Mrs. E. M . N eill, Miss N eill, Col. Regi nald Norman, M r. and Mrs. James A . Swan, Gen. and Mrs. J. Frederick Pierson, the Misses Hunter, M r. and Mrs. W illiam Binney, M r. and Mrs. Horace Binney, Mrs. C . L . Best, Miss Best, Mrs. Heber R . Bishop, Miss Bishop, M r. Ogden Bishop, M r. Ather ton Blight, Miss Blight, M r Roland K ing, M r. Stuyvesant Le R oy, M rs. Le R oy, Lord and Lady Pauncefote, the Hon. Misses Pauncefote, M r. Herman Norman, M r. and Mrs. C . Crackanthorpe, Admiral and Mrs. S. B. Luce, Commodore and Mrs. Lewis Cass Ledyard, M rs. Ladenburg, M r. and Mrs. Robert Keach, M r. and Mrs. James Lincoln, Miss Mauran, M r. and Mrs. W . G . Nightingale, M r. and M rs. K . H . Nightingale, M r. and Mrs. G . C . Nightingale, M r. and M rs. Foster, M r. Christopher Rhode, Senator and Mrs. Roelker, Miss Robinson, Mrs. Shepard, M r. and Mrs. Rufus W ater man, M r. and Mrs. W . V . Chapin, M r. and M rs. J. H . Congdon, M r. S. R . Dorrance, Ex-Govemor and Mrs. Elisha D yer, Colonel Anthony Dyer, M r. and M rs. Duviller, M r. A . M . Gammell, M r. and Mrs. C . L . F. Robinson, Miss Edith R o o k , M r. and Mrs. F. P. Sands, M r. and Mrs. George S. Scott, Miss Louise Scott, Mrs. Scott G rant, M r. and Mrs. Robert Sedgwick, M r. and Mrs. Freder ick Sheldon, M r. and Mrs. W illiam R . Hun ter, M r. and Mrs. Victor Sorchan, M r. and M rs. J . R . Soley, M r. and Mrs. Arthur T . Kem p, M r. James Stillmair, Miss Still man, M r. and Mrs. Edward S. W illing, Colonel and Mrs. John Jacob Astor, Miss Jane W hiting, Mr. Fitzhugh Whitehouse, M r. Fitzhugh, Whitehouso, J r., M r. Cope W hitehouse, Mr. J. Ellis HoflVnan, Mrs. Thom as H itch co ck, Mr. Centar H itchcock, Miss Hurde, Mr. Clarence [. Greason, Mrs. Greason, Dr. Edward L. Cunningham, M r. and M rs. Lewis Q i Jones, Miss Francis Coster Jones, M r. Ro land K ing, Mrs. Lyman C . Josephs, the Misses Johnson, Mrs. James P. Kem ochan, Mr. and Mrs. George Gordon K ing, Miss G . G . K ing, Mrs. Edward K ing, Mr. and Mrs. J. J. W y song, Mr and Mrs. R . T . W ilson, Mrs. Zabriskie, M r. and Mrs Cornelius Vanderbilt, J r.,

Mrs. Ogden Goelet, Miss M ay G oelet, the Misses Edgar, Mrs. W illiam Edgar, M r. and Mrs. Arthur B. Emmons, M r. Henry F. Eldndge, M r. and M rs. Stuyvesant Fish, Dr. V . M ott Francis, Major and Mrs. T . K . Gibos, M r. and Mrs. W illiam Grosvenor,- Miss Grosvenor, M r. and Mrs. J . B. M . Grosvenor, Colonel and Mrs. R . H . I. Goddard, Miss Madeline Goddard, the Misses Pierson, M r. and Mrs. E. C . Post, M r. and Mrs. E. T . Potter, M r. and Mrs. H . Mortimer Brooks, M r. and Mrs. Elwood U%vis, M r. J. D . R . Baldwin, Miss Cadwallader, M r. and M rs. Henry Clews, M r. Henry Clews, J r., Mrs. Coleman, M rs. J . Amory Codman, M r. Thomas F. Cushing, Miss Cushing, Mrs. Paul Dahlgren, Miss Romola Dahlgren, M r Lispenard Stewart, M r. F. W . Rhinelander, Dr. Axel M unthe, M r. and M rs. George L. Rives, Miss N atika Rives, M r. and Mrs. Elisha Dyer, J r., Miss Swan. M r. Atherton Blight gave a dinner^last week, at which he entertained M r. and Mrs. James F. D. Lanier, M r. Gerard Lowther, Miss Anna Sands, M r. and M rs. George V on L . Meyer, M r. and Mrs. Hamilton Fish Webster, Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish and M r. Ogden Cod man, Jr.

tucked in inch-wide tucks. A wide band o f twine-colored guipure, appliqued on gold cloth trims bodice above the girdle o f black velvet, over which it blouses slightly. Three small stiff bows o f velvet are on fastening at left side, w ith a larger one on girdle. Small cuffs o f the gold applique guipure and a narrow band o f it borders top o f the draped collar.
PAGE 179 L e f t F ig u r e .

Tailor-made gown of cran berry red zibeline over a p ie mahogany taffeta. T h e taffeta foundation is circular, finished with an accordion-plaited dust ruffie. T h e zibeline drop skirt is also circular, with fulness in back in inverted plaits. T w o bands o f wide black military braid with a narrow gold braid on edge trim down each side of skirt. T h e waist has a close-fitting back, but blouses decidedly in front, showing a chemisette o f tucked white batiste at opening. It is trimmed with graduated tabs o f the military braid finished with gold braid; the ends o f these down front are turned back and hang loose; in the points on outer edge a lozenge-shaped button is placed. Sleeves are close-fitting and trimmed with the black and gold braids and buttons. H igh military collar finished with a band o f the braids. Hat o f pale tan felt trimmed with black satin ribbon and cocque feathers. | l... SEEN O N "t HE 's T A G E ' i T M id d l e F ig u r e . Gown o f colonial-blue ladies cloth over same shade o f taffeta. A cir cular foundation o f taffeta has an accordionR . Edward Sothern s production o f plaited dust ruffie. T h e cloth drop skirt is in Hamlet at the Garden Theatre on four pieces. A front gore, narrow graduated Monday evening was by far the most yoke and plaited circular sides. A stitched band ambitious theatrical event so far this season. o f the cloth covers seams o f front gore and lower T h e production was made in a generous manner edge o f yoke; two similar bands trim lower part so far as richness o f costumes and scenery, and o f skirt with rounded ends lapping over on gore. a company o f experienced players supported the T he blouse Eton coat has a close-fitting back. Hamlet and Ophelia o f M r. Sot hem and Miss Stitched bands trim fronts, which cross and Virginia Harned. fasten at left with the stitched tight cloth belt. Caleb W est, a dramatization ot F. Hopkin- Three cape-like revers o f the same blue in panne son Smith s novel, was given on Monday night velvet are finished on edge with a stitched fold Sleeves close-fitting, ending in at the Manhattan Theatre T h e stage version o f panne. differs from the story in that i: has a happy rounded points over hand, edged with the velvet ending Edwin Arden and M ay Buckley play fold. T h e chemisette which shows is o f white the leading roles. T h e Rogers Brothers made satin foulard dotted with black, with alternate a triumphant reappearance at the Victoria on tabs crossing and fastening under gold ball but Monday in a new farce, T h e Rogers Brothers tons. T h e edges o f tabs are finished with a narrow piping o f black velvet, followed by a in Central Park. Della Fox is in the cast. narrow gold braid. Appliques o f butter-color T h e Rose o f Persia is still being given at Cluny in points on collar. Hat o f black velvet Daly s Theatre. T h e M onks o f Malabar, w ith black and maize breasts on left side which is Francis W ilson s new operetta, has Black feather boa. R i g h t F i g u r e . Costume in a camel s-hair made a hit at T h e Knickerbocker. It is tuneful, thanks to Ludwig Enlander, the compostr, and novelty in scinde blue, embroidered with black the brightness o f the libretto is the work o f J. chenille dots, over delft blue taffeta. T h e threeCheever Goodwin. T h e Husbands ofLeontine, piece taffeta foundation had a narrow accordionan instance o f disinfected Parisian lewdness, is plaiting on edge. T h e drop-skirt o f the novelty doing exceedingly well at the Madison Square material is also in three pieces, with fulness in Theatre, its success being due in great measure inverted plait at back. T h e fastening is at left to the excellent acting o f Fritz W illiams and E. side o f front gore. A conventional design bor M . Holland. ders skirt and continues up the front gore seam on le ft ; the braid used is a flat military with A Royal Family at the Lyceum continues to threads o f gold woven in edge. A band o f this delight refined folk who can appreciate the com fastening with dull gold buttons serves as a belt. edy that never descends into buffoonery. Mis* T h e waist blouses slightly in the front and has Annie Russell and Mrs. G . H . Gilbert are al a very little fulness in two small plaits. The ways a delight to eye and ear, and M r. Charles revers are o f pale yellow velvet trimmed with Richman in this play is also most acceptable. the black and gold braid, which also trims down Arizona at the Herald Square has settled down the front. T h e collar and yoke are o f cream to a prosperous run, the play promising to rival guipure applique on gold cloth, a fold o f ivoryin popularity any o f M r. Augustus Thom as s white satin round top o f collar. Cuffs o f the successful previous stage works. lace over gold cloth headed by the black and gold braid and finished w ith band o f satin at M r. John Drew has scored a personal triumph wrist. in Richard Carvel at the Empire, in spite o f the handicaps o f middle-agednese and lack o f good p ag e 18 1 looks serious drawbacks in the make-up o f the dashing cavalier hero o f melodrama. T h e U pper F ig u r e . Lace evening dress o f play is beautifully staged and admirably acted, champagne-colored Chantilly over pale flame not alone by the principals John Drew and taffeta. T h e circular taffeta foundation is en Ida Conquest but by the supporting company traine and finished with a narrow lace-edged generally. gathered ruche. T o veil this is a similarly cut skirt o f ivory-white mousseline de soie; set on D E S C R I P T I O N S O F F A S H I O N S the edge o f this is a flounce o f the same, with small black velvet dots through it and a row o f PAGE I 7 7 narrowest black velvet ribbon as a border. Hang Owns o f old rose silk and wool crepe ing by narrow black ribbon velvet straps to a little and o f taffeta raye o f a paler tone. below the middle o f the flounce is a three-inch T h e taffeta foundation is circular, fin band o f black velvet ribbon, with the ends o f ished with a narrow accordion plaiting. T h e the stTaps looped to form a fringe from lower circular drop skirt o f crepe is tucked in groups edge. T h e lace drop-skirt shows this flounce o f tour tucks to within fifteen inches o f top o f at front and sides until it gradually disappears hem. Five groups o f these tucks on skirt, and under the traine. T h e decollete bodice is very the fulness in back is given with three tucks simple : o f the dotted mousseline, fulled baby each side o f fastening stitched down for four fashion, and a lace bettha falling in deep points inches. T h e hem is three inches deep with front and back, but quite short over top o f stitching at top. T h e bodice and sleeves are arm. Four strap* o f narrow black velvet riblen

over each shoulder, caught with a shoulder knot o f wider velvet. Velvet tea roses in natural colors and garlands o f foliage trim coisage, the trailing stems and leaves passing down left ride. T h e same line is followed on skirt with more foliage, and a rose is placed to hold a slight draping in lace on left side. Girdle o f narrow velvet ribbon with rhinestone buckle. L e f t F i g u r e . G ow n o f light-weight satinfinish reseda Venetian cloth over a paler shade of reseda taffeta. A three-piece taffeta foun dation is finished with an accordion-plaited dust ruffie. T h e Venetian do th drop-skirt is in four parts two front gores and circular side pieces. A shallow box-plait shows for seven inches at bottom o f centre and side seams o f gores. These seams have straps o f black velvet stitched down, ending in points, with black silk stitching beyond. Fulness in back in inverted plait. T h e bodice has box-plaits front and back, with velvet strapping and stitching. A band o f black velvet crosses shoulders in back and curves around front, ending at plaits. T h e sleeves are not very close, being drawn into a band o f white do th at wrist, which is stitched with black and run with threads o f gold. Small points o f black vdvet are appliqued on sleeve above this cuff. T h e yoke is o f white cloth, stitched with black and run with gold threads. T h e high collar is edged with narrow black vdvet. Large buttons o f mother-ofpearl, inlaid with gold, at throat and on left side o f yoke. Narrow black vdvet girdle. Scoop hat, with f a n c y chenille border, in a pale tan felt, trimmed with black and petunia velvet rosettes, having golden centres ; lands o f both vdvets around high crown. M id d le F i g u r e . Costume o f French camel s-hair, in automobile red, combined w ith peau de soie over taffeta o f same color. T h e taffeta foundation is circular with a nar row accordion-plaiting on edge. O n this skirt is placed a twelve-inch accordion-plait ing o f peau de soie, over which the tunic o f camel's-hair hangs. T h e tunic has fulness in back in a box plait, a band o f black velvet trims down centre o f front, ending in a point. O n this band are enamelled buttons in red, black and gold. T h e border o f the tunic is in a leaf design, the edge and veinings being done with a very fine black and gold braid. On the bodice the same leaf design is reproduced for collar and revers, the short bolero o f the d o th showing a yoke and chemisette o f the accordion-plaited peau de soie. T h e high collar is o f black velvet in fold, and a band o f black velvet trimmed with enamelled buttons covers fastening down front. T h e sleeves end above wrist in the leaf design, showing a puff o f cream Meehlin fulled into a black velvet wristband. W ide draped girdle o f black velvet, pulled down at right side and fastening w ith stiff bow at back. Toque o f v dvet autumn leaves with cock s plume. R i g h t F ig u r e . Gow n o f bluet bird *-ej e etamine over same color taffeta. T h e taffeta foundation is five-gored, with a deep accordion plaiting on edge. T his trains slightly. T h e etamine drop skirt is circular, w ith side plaits stitched down for thirty inches, when they are allowed to flare. T en inches from waist line, a band o f russet color foin t de gene edged with natrow black vdvet is inserted. A similar band trims the bodice, which is done in plaits with stitching on edges. Down the opening on left side the scallops are edged with vdvet. T h e yoke and chemisette showirg at left are o f finely tucked cream mousseline de soie. A V-shaped band o f vdvet-edged point de gene outlines yoke. T h e sleeves are plain, closefitting w ith the lower part o f the point de gene ; a deep cuff, turning up just below el bow, has strappings o f narrow velvet and a band o f the lace above. Narrow velvet crosses on collar with bow in front. Girdle o f black v dvet w ith rosette o f loops, with long ends o f the narrow velvet ribbon. L o w e r F ig u r e . Gow n ofblack v dvet with deep cream satin finish crepe de chine. T h e foundation o f cream taffeta is in three pieces, training slightly and finished with an accordionplaited frill. Over this the drop-skirt, which has a kilted-front breadth o f crepe and circular rides and back o f the v d v et, is hung, and fattened firmly at front-gore seam under the rever. T h e rever is o f ivory-white satin with a light network o f cut jet beads covering it. T h e bodice shows a fulled front o f the crtpe de
( C o r .tic u e 4 o a p |* ii'

T h e Season s Smartest Models in

Tailored, G o lf and Rainy D ay Hats,

Including Models Fashioned in the Celebrated R I K K I - T I K K I - T Finish
T h e y are on exhibition in the leading M illin ery establishm ents throughout tfce c o u n try , and at S C O T T S , L im ite d , I O ld Bond Street, P iccad illy, Lo n d on .

T h e G en u in e H ats bear this T r a d e -M a r k , and are made on ly by

Phipps and illSSlf) A tch ison

D IS T IN C T IV E F E A T U R E S O F T A IL O R E D H A T S N EW Rudyard K ipling w ill have to add another to his long list o f assorted compliments. O ne o f his 'Jungle Tales has supplied the name for the newest tailored hat for general wear. L ik e the story after w hich it is named, the bat is cleverly constructed. Althou gh the designer has not quite completed the name it w ill be recognized. T h e R ik k i- T ik k i- T w ill be a* great a favorite as the mongoose o f the story. Its distinctive feature it the manner in w hich the crown is made. Quarters are coneshaped and joined by scams that are also stitched at each side, and through the middle o f each section from point to base is taken a small tu ck , w hich ow ing to the texture o f the felt appears round as i f corded. T h is particular feature o f the R ik k i- T ik k i- T runs through many o f the other hat crowns, whether they are draped in sailor style, A lpine, or k n o ck about shapes. Sartorial A r t Jou rnal.

C H A R M IN G

M O D E L IN S O F T W O O L E N M A T E R I A L

roft

DESCHIPTIONS

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He phrase, a strenuous life, has been bandied abou* a good deal of late, and the aggressiveness it has been made to stand for has aroused protest in con servative quarters. Perhaps were the question negatively put, and the purposeless life made the subject of exhorta tions, it would provoke less combativeness and start a re form. The comparatively informal life of summer gives opportunity for minuter observation of the ways of this generation than is possible in the crowded town, with its manifold exactions on time and endurance; and he who reads while he runs cannot but be disquieted at the waste of life perpetrated by the leisure-class woman. Freed from the necessity of self-support, she is apparently incapable of substituting any other purposeful and useful labor ; so she falls into the way of idly drifting on pleasure s stream, or she busies herself with petty time-fillers. Sometimes she pursues fads. It may be fan-painting, or whist, or historylecture attendance, but the various occupations are taken up merely as pastimes ; rarely, if ever, does the woman aim at excellence, and certainly it is no part of her intention to acquire knowledge of various arts with a view to self-devel opment or to add to the happiness of others. Her life does she dedicate to hunting and practicing kill-times.

The effect of the purposeless life on the one who leads it is belittleing and unsatisfying to the last degree. In youth even, after the twentieth mile-stone has been passed, there come many days when a realization of the emptiness of life brings keenest discouragement. And as the years advance, these times of depression come around more frequently, until the now elderly woman becomes, like thousands of her class, a mere human vegetable, endured for her social posi tion and the favors which she can dispense, but regarded as an infliction and shunned whenever it is safe to do so. Idleness called for euphony leisure the cardinal doctrine of her social creed, has brought her neither honor nor profit ; in these desirable results she has no self-earned share. Ex cept for the sheen of wealth, the outcome of others labors, she is without distinction. How different would the tale have been had she been taught that a purposeful life, the gospel of which is work, is the only worthy one ; that trifling with time and opportunity are crimes against her own soul as well as against the community. Mad as is the chase after wealth, idle as is the moneyed class, there are indications that certain forces are at work which will eventually change social ideals in the direction of substituting useful altruistic work for the present selfindulgent laziness. One force is at the moment working on a very large scale. The unrest among the more intelligent women of the middle class so disturbing to the conserva tive mind which expresses itself in clubs, congresses and federations, is an attempt to lead fuller and more useful lives ; and despite much that is and has been* absurd and vainglorious in the conduct of some of the organizations, the trend of all of them has been to bring idleness into dis repute. Let us then be up and doing has been the working plan, if not the expressed motto, of women s clubs, and of late years their activities have been directed toward broader fields than at first engaged attention, and more and more are they rendering valuable public service. It is not possible that many thousand women should be thus vaunting indus try, year in and year out, without affecting public opinion ; indeed it is not inconceivable that before the end of the next half century the idle rich will share with the idle poor the opprobrium of being persorally a good-for-naught.

As the leisure-class girl is increasing in numbers as the country grows in wealth, the question as to what she shall do with her life becomes ever more vitally the concern of the community. A t present not only is she a drone, but by her mode of life and her influence she puts the emphasis of approval upon what is really unworthy. Idleness, one of the most vicious, the most fundamental and ineradicable faults of the human race, is presented as the most covetable of possibilities; indeed, an order of caste is founded upon it, and every social force is invoked to emphasize the alleged superiority of the idle over those whose industry, fidelity and energy create and maintain the necessaries, the comforts, the luxuries for which the world of to-day is noted, and whose untiring labor makes possible the existence of classes in the community whose lives are devoted to the conserva tion of culture. Self-absorption and laziness are qualities encouraged in the leisure-class girl and woman impossible foundation for nobility of life.

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V O G UE
A m e ric a n interest in personal cleanliness he declared is greater than that o f G erm an s, and he instances in support o f his contention the sw im m ing-pools he saw in colleges ; the b o u n tifu l su p ply o f bath room s and w ashin g basins in h otels, and the large num ber o f the latter in shops, railw ay stations and the lik e. In railw a y trains likew ise soap and to w e ls are to be had in quantities unheard o f in G erm an y. T h e A m erica n s devotion to p hysical exercise also called forth from the critic com parisons betw een them and the G erm an s, and recom m endations for the im itating o f A m e rica n practices in regard to athletics as a very ex ce l lent preparatory training for m ilitary service. B u t this G erm an s adm iration for these and other characteristics and custom s, w hich he enum erates is not unm ixed w ith alarm fo r the suprem acy o f his o w n nation. H e foresees that this cou n try w ill, in the natural order o f events, in evitably pre-em pt the m arkets o f C entral and South A m e ric a , and he urges against that day the form ation o f a European Z o llverein . He points o u t that this cou n try w ill before lo n g cease to becom e a custom er fo r G erm an m anu factu re s, and acco rd in g ly he regards it as the part o f w isdom fo r G e rm an y to b egin as early as now to lo o k ou t for n ew avenues o f trade fo r her industries. reform atories have room fo r abou t six thousand crim inals. T h is is considered insufficient un der the partial ab olition o f Siberian exile, and acco rd in g ly room for abou t eigh t thousand ad ditional prisoners is to be provided . The island o f Sakhalin e is to be m ade into a penal co lo n y , it h avin g been designated as the place o f exile for certain classes o f crim inals w ho have alread y undergone punishm ent in Russia. It is to be hoped that the end o f Siberian exile horrors has been reached.

HAPHAZARD

JO TT IN G S

PRUDENCE BECOMING PARTNER T O LOVE THE BU SY BEE CO M M ER CIALLY EXPRESSED THE AM ERICAN ADDICTED T O BATHS AND

T O A TH LETICS SIBERIAN HOR RORS T O BE M ITIG ATED ---THE HERO WHO A TTEM PTED T O SAVE A DOG FROM A T R A G IC FATE W H Y THE BEST TEACHERS SHUN PRIVATE SCHOOLS

O ve in a co tta g e is g o in g ou t o f fashion in the hitherto v e ry strongholds o f re c k lessly rom antic affection the poorer classes. A t least that is w hat the scientific fo lk are p roclaim in g. D eferred m arriage and sm all fam ilies am o n g the m ore enlightened classes in A m e rica n society have been the despair o f statesm en fo r som e tim e, these worthies being prone to hold up F ran ce as an aw fu l exam ple. Scientists, h ow ever, view the m atter from a different standpoint; th ey w elcom e carefu l pre nuptial provision for the fu tu re, and the exer cise o f foreth o u gh t in the m atter o f the b e g e t tin g o f children. T h is co m p ellin g lo ve to w ait upon prudence is, it appears, begin n in g to exercise an appreciable effect not alone in w id e aw ak e A m e r ic a , bu t in less aggressively progressive rural E n glan d . It lo oks as th ou gh the A n g lo -S a x o n peoples at least w ere on the w a y o f so lv in g the crow d ed tenem ent and slum problem s alo n g the line o f prevention. At least it is en co u rag in g to have scientists applaud the exercise o f pruden ce in affairs relatin g to m arriage
*

T h e b u sy bee has becom e a syn o n ym for sane and superlative in d u stry, bu t the produ ct o f his busyness as d isclo sed b y the census prom ises alm ost to pass belief. It is estim ated that, expressed in m on ey, $2 0,000,000 annu a lly represents w hat his beeship accom plishes in this co u n try alone. E ven at that figure, h ow ever, the little w ork e r does not represent w hat he co u ld extract from the flo w er crop o f the U n ited States, fo r acco rd in g to a bee expert ten tim es m ore than the present num ber o f bee colon ies co u ld be supported b y it. In ad dition to ten tim es' the annual in com e from the bee in d u stry it co u ld g iv e em plo ym en t and m aintenance to three m illions o f persons; at present abou t one hundred thousand persons are en gaged in it. A m o n g the other pu b lished statistics on the su bject is that there are fifteen steam p ow er factories and a v ery large num ber o f sm all factories en gaged in the pro du ction o f various necessaries for the indu stry. T h e num ber o f apiarian societies reaches to one hundred and ten.

T h e destruction that fo llo w s in the w a ke o f a visitation o f hailstorm s has fin ally m oved som e o f those w h o g e t their livin g from the grou n d to protect their grow th s from this species o f devastation. In the vicin ity o f L y o n s, F ran ce , there has been a con certed effort am o n g the vineyard ow ners to prevent th e hailstorm s from descending to earth. In a tract o f tw o thousand acres, fifty -tw o cannon have been placed , a central signal post re g u lates the fire ; w hen a shot is fired there that is the signal fo r all o f the cannon to be dis charged. A t first the rate is tw o firings a m om ent, then after the first ten shots the firing is delivered m ore slo w ly . T h e m ethod is said to have been efficacious on m any o c c a sions, and other vin eyard districts have estab lished sim ilar artillery practice. T h is shoot in g at clo uds is not a new d ev ice, it havin g been practiced , so it is claim ed in Ita ly m ore than a cen tu ry ago .

A n act o f heroism on the part o f a m an, the ob ject o f his hum ane attem pt b ein g an ow n er less d o g , w as inclu d ed in the d a y s news not lo n g ago . T h e story ran that John D o erflin ger, o f 82 B arb ey Street, B ro o k ly n , N . Y . , seeing upon the track o f an elevated railw ay a d o g w h ich was in dan ger o f b ein g run over, at tem pted its rescue at considerable personal in convenience, and as the sequel proved at great risk o f in ju ry to him self. U n fo rtu n ately, a l th ou gh he did not succeed in rescu in g the d o g , he h im self was severely hurt. T h e publication o f the incident has prom pted anim al lovers and those also w ho value unselfish service, to show their appreciation o f M r. D o erflin ger s act to express their appreciation in donations o f sums o f $ 5 and less sent to him in care o f som e one o f the b ig dailies. T h e incident is referred to here in the hope that am o n g V o g u e readers w ill be found som e w h o w ill be inspired to ex press appreciation b y w a y o f a bank note. T h e d o g in the case, let it be ad ded fo r the consolation o f an y anim al lovers w ho m ay read these lines, was fin ally rescued from his perilous position b y trainm en.

A visitin g G e rm an , an in telligen t m an, has published fot the benefit o f his com patriots in G e rm a n y , an acco u n t o f the A m e ric a n ch arac teristics w ith .vhich he w as m ost fo rcib ly struck.

F rom special correspondence to the N e w Y o r k T im e s the reader learns som e interesting facts in regard to the Siberian exiles. The enorm ous total o f eigh t hundred and sixty-fo u r thousand five hundred and fo rty-n in e persons w ere sent to Siberia from 1807 to 18 9 9 . In the last tw elve years over nin ety-five thousand men and fo u r thousand seven hundred w om en have been sent there a trem endous d isp rop or tion betw een the sexes. T h e total num ber o f con victs acco rd in g to a census taken in 1898, was w ithin a fe w hundred o f three hundred thou sand, abou t tw o-th irds o f w hom are v ag a bonds at large, b ein g w ith o u t fixed resi dence. T h e y constitute a perm anent arm y o f b eggars and thieves. U nder a recen tly p ro m ulgated law certain classes o f crim inals w ho w ou ld form erly have been sent to Siberia, w ill be im prisoned for from eig h t m onths to tw o years. H ereafter those exiled to Siberia w ill be, as n o w , p olitical offenders o f w hom there are abou t one hundred an n u ally, and a certain class o f tram ps w ho average four hundred and th irty Per year. T h e various R ussian prisons and

In an interesting and w ell-co nsid ered article on T h e P lace o f the P rivate S ch ool in Secon d ary E d u catio n , contributed b y Lo u ise Sheffield B ro w n e ll, H ead o f the B allio l S ch ool at U tica, N e w Y o r k , to the E ve n in g P o st, the position o f the teacher in the usual private sch ool is thus neatly set forth : T h e experience o f the heads o f private schools is that th ey have great difficu lty in securin g the very best teachers, this desirable class, y su a lly p referring the low er offer o f an obscure co lleg e to the higher one o f a private sch ool. T h is is d ue prim arily, a c co rd in g to M iss B ro w n e ll, to the life that the c o lle g e offers as com pared to that o f the sch ool ; to the fixed hours o f teach in g and leisure apart from these ; to th e social and in tellectu al prestige am o n g the students w hich their profession g ives ; to the recognition b y the co lle g e authorities o f independent in tellec tual w o rk as a w elco m e contribution to the w o rk o f the co lleg e . T h e sch ool m ore espe c ia lly the board in g-sch o ol too often dem ands from the teacher, say o f m athem atics, that she shall chaperone at the theatre and hold study hour ; or from the head o f the departm ent o f m usic that she shall furnish accom panim ents to the calisthenic w o rk in the gym n asiu m . N o th in g m ore g a llin g to professional spirit can be im agined. T h e w o rk dem anded is not in itse lf m enial, or w o rk that she w ou ld not o cca sio n ally do o f her ow n in itiative ; bu t in the student s eyes it confuses its e lf in the w ork that is her special pride ; renders that w o rk no lo n ger a private service to a sin gle fixed stand ard, bu t a heterogeneous m elee o f little duties in a w o rd , it m akes her w o rk and her life in tolerable. T h e situation has been m et b y
(Continued on page i8z)

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one enlightened head, by the engagement of heads of residence and mistresses. If the private school is to hold its own, it must have the most excellent teachers procurable, and a way is thus shown by Miss Brownell as to how they may be secured and retained.

FEATHER
B
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Reamy June had glided into fast asleep August when one day Jordan was crossing the open country lying be tween two villages. Heat and weariness he was on foot made him grateful for the sight of a little wood within whose shade ran a brook. A drink of water will go good a day like this, murmured Jordan as he knelt on the wet moss. But he never got his drink! For there, beside a stone, lay the little shoes whose footprints he has sought so long and fruitlessly. He picked one up. There was no doubt about it, it was the same, though worn by the lapse of time and stained with dust. How in the name of all that's sensible did you get here ? he asked of the small footgear as it lay on his outstretched palm. And what are you doing in this wood ? It isn't a sacred grove. The little shoe remained mute, but its fellow gave answer to the second question, for when he bent to pick it up he found a pair of little silk stockings tucked away in it. Gone wading up the brook! A lo n e ? No, for t here, a few yards away, was a pair of wee Jap anese slippers with their attendant stockings. What won t an American do in a foreign land ? It must feel uncommon good to-day prowling about in that cool water! Jordan laughed for pure joy at his find. You ll not escape me this time, Miss Feather Feet. He stood, sentinel-like, over his treasure. Then another thought came to him. Three s a crowd, even if the third is a little Japanese. I know a trick worth double this. He wrote on a slip of paper from his note-book:

Feather Feet: If you want your shoe meet me at dusk in the Temple Grove. He to whom you sang in the Garden of the Pleasure of Peace. He thrust the note into one of the shoes, then he coolly pocketed the other. Clearly I am mad, mad as a March hare, he said, cheerfully. and how pleasant it is to be so. Then he stole away down the ravine, but not before a bubble of laughter reached him, and a voice her voice singing a snatch of song. Alas, even in blessed Japan fate shows a grim humor and a tantalizing caprice. By the time he reached the inn Jordan experienced a headache, dizziness, seasickness of the most weakening order. He threw himself on his bed to sleep for a few minutes before he should go forth to meet Feather Feet. Ten o'clock, said the old-fashioped watch in his pocket when he opened his heavy eyes. He sprang up, then sank dizzily back, his head whirring like a mill wheel.

I ll write her a note telling her how it Feather Feet, cried Jordan wildly, let happened, he said aloud, thickly. He rose me come into your boat. again, and, in spite of strange colors which No! no! almost in a whisper. danced before his eyes, and strange voices Where have you hidden yourself? I have which dinned in his ears, he crept to his writ hunted for you everywhere for years ? he ing-table. His servant found him there, rushed on. stretched on the floor. I ? I have been here and up there in the When Jordan returned from the world of country where you were when------- night and dreams into which he entered that I was ill with fever, I could not come. day, called by the doctor, Oriental fever, Feather Feet, what is your name ? Where do summer was fading into autumn. He had you live ? dreamed and thought and dreamed again of Hush, very softly. Then she sang in Feather-Feet in those long, idle days in which the same low voice a song in English, a little he waited for strength to come back to him. old love song Jordan had heard when he was a She had become to him like the Golden child ; a song with a sad, hopeless ending. Isles beyond the sunset, for which mariners As the last note died away she whispered of old toiled and voyaged, ever just out of Good-by, and made a quick gesture to reach. She was the Fountain of Youth rowers. through which freshness and immortality of Wait, he cried. heart was to come to him. Seek her he But the boat moved swiftly towards the would. But where ? No one could tell him darkness lying out in the river. anything about her. A foreign lady had been He waited at the landing for hours, but no in the village ; she was gone now ; that was Feather Feet in fairy barque moored at it. He all. And Jordan went, too, back tothe cityher name, he knew her face! Oh, to knew whence he came, and back to the temple, know more of her! Whole hours Jordan unconsciously, mechanically, like a homing dreamed over that face, so small, so childlike, pigeon. Yes, there they lay ! Not the same yet so beautiful. He must find her, this elu ones, for did not he himself guard one of sive, wraithlike creature that came and went those under lock and key ? but bright, new like some being of another world, who gleamed little shoes, the very fellows of the old pair. upon him for an instant and then wrapped the Jordan crept into the dark, warm temple. mantle of invisibility around her. Jordan was Incense dimmed the air, a priest was beating a like one kissed by a mountain fay who is for tiny song, young priests were chanting very ever after doomed to follow her ever flvinelow. A huddle of people sat and knelt in figure. one corner foreigners ; for he could see their I 11 give up this ridiculous business, he light hair and faces. He pushed out after said to himself twenty times a day, but his them. He was close upon Feather Feet as she search remained unabated. knelt to put on her shoes. It was a dreary, rainy evening, one that Hurry, Orpha, said a tall woman. made Japan seem like London rather than the I m coming, answered her voice, that land of flowers and light. Jordan shivered as wonderful, never-to-be-forgotten voice, and he stepped among the bales and boxes that then a big, heavy-looking man thrust against crowded the wharf. He was trying to find a him, jostled him back almost into the temple little ^steamer, bound for Australia, whose itself. Jordan sprang out on the porch, desire captain was to undertake a commission for to see Feather Feet divided with desire to him. The decks were wet and dirty and knock down the man who had interfered. crowded with poor Japanese and forlorn for Various covered rickshaws were speeding eigners, for it was a cheap vessel. Down by away. In one sat Feather Feet. the rail a woman iyas struggling to unstrap After he had employed every device known some luggage. A man stood near, but offered to his newly-aroused talents for investigation, no aid. Jordan glared at him an instant, then to find Feather Feet, and had failed, he went looked again. Where had he seen that heavy, steadily every night to the garden by the sullen face, those dull, wine-bleared eyes ? river. The man had thrown him back by the door of She will come here again, said he, and the temple! she did come. One night as the lights were Can t you get through fussing with those beginning to burn and glow along the water s things ? I want to go below. edge he heard the dip of oars and the sound His tone was brutal. of low singing. He knew that voice. Jordan I m almost ready, answered a soft voice ran to the wall that circles the garden, and sat and the woman stood up. It was Feather on it, looking straight down on the river. A Feet! Jordan stood rooted to the spot. little boat glided towards him. Tw o men, Everything s going wrong this trip, Japanese, were rowing it. Jordan saw only went on the man, and no one s to blame but one. He scorned the pictures of Feather Feet you, damn you! which he had so carefully drawn when he saw Jordan sprang forward. the reality. Her face in the light of the boat Stop! he said, though he did not recog torches was like a flower, like a beautiful nize his own voice. You shall not speak to child, like a spirit. Ah, but neither flower, her so! nor child nor blessed spirit ever knew the sor I don t know as there s any law against a row of that face, the pathetic patience, the man cursing his own wife, is there ? retorted uncomplaining sadness. She was singing, but the man. He caught Feather Feet by the arm as her eyes met Jordan s, the song slowly died and jerked her as one would a refractory dog away, and a look of recognition dawned in her towards the cabin. She turned her head. Her eyes, yet she had never seen him. Was it the eyes met Jordan s. The story of her life was love that blazed in his gaze as he leaned far told in that look. over the wall, that told her who he was ? Was Sometime towards morning Jordan entered it one of those strange, subtle intuitions none his room. He had been wandering about the can explain ? Who can say ? She made a city, he did not know where, ever since he had sudden gesture and the boat stopped. left the steamer. A box had been left on his
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VO G U E table. It was not addressed and it contained no name. He opened it. Within layers of tissue paper lay a little worn shoe, the mate to the one he stole by the brook. its movement as soft as if it had been chiffon. But not to have whatever the outer skirt hap pened to be one or more underskirt draperies of tulle, mousseline de soie, or chiffon, was, with the exception of the pliable light silks mentioned, a rare exception. Several gowns were distinguished for unique and beautiful designs of flowering branches, wrought with chiffon, and bits of velvet for stems and leaves. These were long branches from the bottom of the skirt, running upwards towards the belt with wide spaces between. Wonderfully beautiful were two gowns of painted mousseline ; one with waving garlands of pink roses, swinging from the bills of love birds, the other, sprays, of yellow jasmine adjusted in panels with Alen^on lace. No description can do justice to creations of this kind, so the best one can do is merely to sug gest, and then leave them to the reader s imagination, each one filling out the flaring foot drapery of the train, its vapor lightness and swirling movements, the slender, clinging lines around the figure, the decolletage and perfect bodice, the jeweled trimmed neck, the well poised head coiffe to a charm in fact, to fancy the most beautiful woman one knows in the toilette hinted at.
LACE MEDALLIONS

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WHAT

SH E

WEARS

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T H E BIG END-OF-THE SEASON NEW PORT BALLS BROUGHT OU T THE FINEST COSTUMES---PAINTED DESIGNS A CHARMING FEA T U R E -M E D A L L IO N MODEL PRO DUCED IN BLACK CH A N T IL L Y ---FLOWERS STILL PREFERRED CORSAGE DECORATIONS THE FIRST COOL DAYS

Rom the sea to mountains and hills, from one social environment to another, is dans l ordre in September, if you follow the lead of le monde, who study to amuse themselves. A ll this means that Mrs. X and Y and Z, and most of their friends, are busy during intervals in making preparations, refur bishing wardrobes, and mysteriously going off on flying town visits towards that end. Lenox and Tuxedo then have their innings set out to bestir themselves accordingly, and bloom suddenly in unwonted gaiety. While the reign of outdoor gossamer gown wear draws to its close one cannot regret the advent of taffeta, and silk and wool voiles and bareges, to be seen during tht afternoon driving hours. Thibets and light cloths will soon follow, with all their charm of color and their tailor-made beauty of fit. Hats are new and in keeping, having the warmth of feather and velvet in trimmings, thereby suiting to perfection the clear autumnal air and in harmony with the brilliant hues of turning leaves everywhere about, thus giving a new zest to faded dress-sensations, which, like appetites, require their caviar.

regard to wearing attached undersleeves, and it is this. If you have a long, slender waist, where bust and hips are not accented, you need not hesitate to wear the full, gathered-to-thewrist undersleeve ; but even if your waist measure is small, and there should be a certain fulness of line denoting a tendency to the hori zontal rather than vertical lines in the natural figure, then let all attached sleeves fit the arm closely. A ll those who complain of finding these new undersleeves unbecoming have been women who should have had theirs fitted to their arms, in order to suggest a length of arm and leave a clear-cut space on each side of the waist. In wearing long gloves with elbow sleeves this same genre of figure requires that the finish of the elbow sleeve be quite flat and close, either a flat, turned-up cuff or one draped below the elbow in a long, flat line. Slenderarmed women look better when the elbow sleeve is ruffled, or has plisses or bows and lace in order to round out the angularity of elbow, and to shorten the length of arm and waist line. Top trimmings to sleeves are apt to shorten the arm, particularly so if the trimming is not of the same fabric as the sleeve.
A PR E T T Y REMODELING RESULT

EXQUISITE BALL COSTUMES

No one will deny that the most beautiful gowns of the season were held back for the big Newport balls at the close of it. The expectation was that every one invited would wear her loveliest creation, and she did. Such beauties! Such laces and wondrous manoeuverings ; tissues of every sky tint, and incompar able white creations. With these were jew eled treasures of great value worn lavishly. Parures of regal magnificence glittered on lovely heads and necks. One could compare it only to a royal function. In the midst of constant movement and animation passed a preponderance of women noted for personal beauty, for their smartness and chic, framed in the most luxurious of surroundings certainly never surpassed.
SOME COSTUME DETAILS

Critically examining these toilettes, there seemed to be no flaw against good taste, though, as in all large assemblages, there were grades of beauty, as well as of magnificence and elegance. The transparent textures, floated over other transparencies, and a harmony of two or three under colors, were noticeable in some cases. Tulles were often so handled. A thin, vapory silk lay under the laces on some skirts, its sheen showing brilliantly, and

In a previous issue of Vogue there was mention of the charming novelty of painted medallions. But heretofore they were seen introduced on crepe de chine finish tissues, or on mousselines, in pale pastel tints. It re mained for a charming matron to show how beautiful such medallions could be inset in black Chantilly, over white silk the thin, shimmering silk referred to above. Lovely vertical lines of white Alen^on a narrow width edged the sides of two panels of Chan tilly, in odd wavings, suggesting the border of a Louis xv frame. On these tablier panels were four medallions inset on each side, the .largest beginning at the foot, and gradually lessening. T wo of the smallest size were in set in the centre of the front decolletage, and one in the middle at the back, a bordering of white lace enclosing the three, and further, carried into chain effect from those in front, to the one in the back, perfecting an unique decolletage. Flowers remain the smart garniture of the corsage. Looped garlands of roses over the skirts of the long traines were to be seen on a white and a pale gray mousseline gown, the latter having, besides, a bottom border of roses. Pale blue roses trimmed the gray gown, while pink roses clambered over the white, and in several rows. On the gray corsage was one bunch of roses, while on the white bodice a decolletage rose wreath gave a charming finish. For a lithe, youthful figure, these rose vines trailing over the skirt, were poetry itself. Day gowns lose none of their beauty, al though the season begins to wane, and a week or two more must bring the wearing of the transparent ones to a sudden end. Indoors we can get full benefit of our prettier frocks the year round. The custom of dressing at home in light colors, and in dressy models, regardless even of wintry weather, has become so firmly fixed that those who do otherwise are exceptional.
THE MODES IN UNDERSLEEVES

Some lace gowns, which have met with many accidents around the bottom, have been turned into underskirts in several ways. Two pretty lace gowns lately so converted are an oleander pink crepe de chine, having a long traine in a fitted flounce of the same and a wide space ot fourteen inches between this flounce and the upper skirt, showing the lace one underneath. Narrow vertical straps of black velvet join the crepe-de-chine flounce to the upper portion of skirt, showing the lace through the lines. A similar strap effect is carried out between the upper part of crepe skirt portion and the waist band, a space of ten inches, the under lace skirt appearing again. The ends of these vel vet straps are hidden under pink mousseline ruchings gathered through the centre, the only exception being the ends, which are carried into the mount of skirt. The outside por tion of the elbow sleeves are in like manner strapped over transparent lace. The second gown is a white grenadine, flowered in the palest of green poppies. The npper skirt is entirely of fine guipure lace, while a deep-trailing flounce of the grenadine finely plisse falls from it below the knees. The decollete bodice is of lace, trimmed with bretelle scarfs of plisse grenadine. Close-fitting short sleeves of trans parent lace are strapped crossways with bias bands of grenadine. Both of these gowns are smart examples, recently worn, and so perfectly disguised that no one suspects the lace was ever a gown.

G L IM P S E S
A t

There is a distinction to be observed with

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One time it was modish for every woman dining out in the evening at a casino to wear a hather smartest, of course. Now you may wear a hat or not, as you please. There are as many smart ones to be seen without hats as with them. Certain gowns are more fetching if hats are worn with them, while others are just the reverse. One must keep herself on the alert over such effects always, if she would sustain a reputation for being well dressed.

[N ote . R ead ers o f V o g u e in q u irin g names o f ih o p i w h ere a rticles are pu rchasable should enclose stam ped and addressed e n v elop e for r e p ly , and state p ag e and d ate . See illu stra tion s on this p a g e.] FLA N N EL SHIRT WAISTS---- F A N C Y BOLEROS---SILK BODICES----NEW TRIM M INGS---NO VELTY VELVETS- -BEAVER HATS---- A NEW M ETA L---A PPLIAN CE A T $ 1 . 2 5 FOR HEATING A SMOOTHING-IRON B Y GAS

Lanncl shirt waists of every description are now being shown, and it is apparent that for another season, at least, these most useful articles o f dress are to be as indis pensable in a well-appointed wardrobe as in the year which is past. However, as it is a gar ment which is worn by all classes o f women, it is necessary to be very careful in one s choice o f style and cut, for it is principally by these feat ures that distinction is gained. T o o much economy in the buying is not a wise plan. A shirt waist to be seen in one o f the sketches is o f scarlet flannel, the front and back being in small tucks in clusters o f two, widely separated. Narrow bands o f black satin, extending from the shoulders and neck, form a yoke effect. These bands are Ornamented with three small gold buttons placed near the end. T h e sleeves are trimmed with smaller strap pings o f black satin, and end in a pretty flaring cuff. T h e box plait, under which the shirt waist buttons, is stitched. T his is particularly to be recommended to your notice,as it is good in style, and the combination o f colors red, black and gold are the latest thing in shirt waists this autumn. T h e price is $ 5 .7 5 . Another sketch represents a blue flannel shirt waist, made with no fulness from the shoulders or the neck. T h e entire front and back o f the waist are ornamented with groups o f five lines o f stitching, forming a stripe effect; price, $4.98. Another smart little shirt o f mauve flannel, ornamented with three stitched bands o f black taffeta, starting just above the line o f the bust and extending around the figure. T h e pretty collar and cuffs are a combination o f stitched black taffeta and flannel. T h e price is 5 .75 . A n y o f the waists can be had in all the fashionable colors, but as few have been or dered o f each style it would be well to order promptly. Less expensive but also good in design and material is a waist o f gray flannel. A s can be seen in the sketch it is plain across the shoulders and has clusters o f throe small tucks on either ride o f the box-plait which is stitched and ornamented with tiny gold buttons. A plain military sleeve, fastening with small buttons tight to the arm finishes this simple but attractive little shirt waist, the price o f which is $3.98. T h e sketch o f bolero and collar in one piece gives a very good idea for an easily-made fancy bodice, and costs $ 16 .50 . It is a particularly smart design and combines puffings o f cream chiffon, hemstitching and very narrow cream silk braid with the lovely material called gold cloth. T h is material is not much heavier than gauze, although it has quite a body. It gives the effect o f woven gold, is untamishable and can be bought for $2.25 a yard. T h e same material embossed comes at $ 2 .75 . Another beautiful garniture shown in a sketch is parti cularly adaptable for a decollete bodice. It could, however, be used w ith as good effect for a high-necked bodice with a shallow yoke o f lace or tucked chiffon. T his is a combination o f gold cloth, point de gene and renaissance braid, and the shape is particularly novel and most exquisite o f these was in steel beading, effective. T h e back falls a trifle less long with a large pattern in renaissance lace, outthan the front, but it is nearly similar. T h is lined with black paillettes. T h is was 5 10 .5 0 a creation is cheap at St 1. A gold-cloth sailor- yard; it also comes in six-inch widths at $2.60 collar edged with broad Russian lace can be had a yard. T h is exquisite material could, with a for $10 50. i '" '* :-----------------------------1 - a - gown little ingenuity, be fashioned into One o f the new silk bodices i9 shown in a which need not be very expensive. T h e bodice sketch. It is o f ciel blue surah, made with a could be made entirely o f the all-over, and the blouse effect both back and front. Bands o f much less costly narrower width could be used the silk stitched in black extend down the in combination with black chiffon or some o f front o f the bodice, which fastens a trifle at one the new and lovely gauzes, for the skirt. side under a shaped band o f the silk, also T his would give one a most effective gown for stitched in black. T h e collar and shallow a moderate sum. yoke are o f embroidered batiste and there is a Persian embroidery on linen is a novelty, and little fall o f this same material at the side o f the would be most effective used as a trimming for bust. A flat collar o f the silk, stitched m fancy bodices. It is four inches wide and costs black, joins the edge o f the yoke. T h e sleeves $3 a yard. Another trimming worthy o f

are rather larger than formerly, especially at the cuff Models of the most exquisite lace robe dresses are being shown among the newest im portations, and the indications are that these will be greatly worn by smart women. Rus sian lace gowns are among the most effective, being newer than those o f renaissance, although the latter will still be worn both in black and white. A robe model o f overskirt, bodice and sleeves, in black fishscale paillettes with a lovely design in steel beading can be bought for $60. T h e new materials for all-overs are even more beautiful than last year, and show combi nations o f lace or beading which are elaborate and dainty beyond description. One o f the

mention is o f cross bands o f velvet elaborately ornamented with steel beading and amethysts sewn on strips o f heavy cream silk gauze. T his would be very smart as a trimming to a gray gown, and would give the effect o f hand work. T h e price is S3 a yard. A combina tion o f guipure and Russian lace in an effective pattern is not expensive at $7 a yard. Among the novelties o f the season are vel vets in exquisite patterns which almost defy description. M any o f the designs are large flowers and leaves. These come in different shades o f panne velvets, the ground being o f a solid color and the decorations printed or painted as the case may be in the natural shades o f the flowers. These materials have a wide range in price and can be bought from $1.5 0 to $8 a

faced under the brim with black and elaborately stitched is extremely smart. A s is usual with this style o f hat the trimming gives the effect o f simplicity and in this case consists only o f folds o f cream liberty satin circling the high crown and black and white wings that sit high on either side. Price, $14. One o f gray beaver at 8 which is o f very much the same shape, has folds o f the black and white checked velvet which is to be much worn this autumn and winter and will take the place o f the foulard silk fold worn during the past season. T he brown beaver hat shown in the sketch is one o f the most useful and durable and is also very good style. Folds o f brown and white checked velvet drape artistically, showing a band o f gold braid at the top en-

yard. One particularly lovely design was o f black panne velvet with a pattern o f primroses and leaves in their natural colors and size. Moire mirror camelian is a most exquisite three-tone combination o f shades and resembles the faintest colors o f a rainbow more than any thing to which I can compare it. T h e price is $2.90 a yard. Panne velvet in all shades comes with a polka dot in stamped gold at $3, but this is more suitable for trimming than for whole gowns or bodices. Creamcolored liberty satin with different-sized panne velvet polka dots is unusually pretty and costs $3.25 a yard. T h e hats in the accompanying sketches are suitable for immediate use with g o lf or walking costumes. One o f cream-colored beaver cloth

circle the and in front are two large brown feather pompons. T h e gold braid tied in the smartest little bow at the side just back o f the pompons. Price, $12 . One o f the pretty novelties o f the season is an inkstand o f a new metal. It is made o f deep orange glast, the top being almost com pletely covered with a sun-flower o f the metal. T h e tray upon which this stands is also o f the metal and has a design in sun-flower leaves. T his would be a pietty and novel gift at $5. A n ash tay o f green Vienna bronze in shape o f a shell, with a dainty figure o f a mermaid in brown is cheap at $3.50 . Another odd tray was o f the same metal ; a frog s head protruding out o f the ripples o f a pond, done in green.

SEEN IN T H E S H O P S

I L L U S T R A T I O N S SEE T E X T T H I S P A G E

186

A little pen rack which attracted my atten tion, was novel and cost only $ i . It showed a procession o f quaint Pierrots graduated in size and done in French gilt. T h e figures were in silhouette and the end ones supported the little gold knobs upon which the pens are to rest. A large platter made o f this metal decorated in a design o f dragon-flies is divided into tour compartments. It is intended for serving the different kinds o f vegetables at dinner and is a form o f dish very much in use in Germany. T h e price is $ 15 . There are a great many ex tremely attractive small articles in this metal at very reasonable prices which would be most fit for birthday or Christmas gifts. T h e metal itself is handsome, and much resembles silver. I: is made in Berlin and does not tarnish. A handsome blotter for a man s desk at $6 was seen in the same shop; it is o f onyx and nickel and the handle is a ram s horn. Reproductions o f odd English cut glass cream pitchers and sugar bowls in green and crystal or red and crystal are being shown and cost $6 each. A n old hanging clock o f painted carved wood at $25 would be appropriate to use in either a hall or dining-room. T h e long brass weights and the pendulum are o f brass, and the face o f the clock, which is o f an unique design, is hand carved and painted. A t the bottom are brown snails, and at the upper corners are red tulips with their green leaves and in the centre is a curious allegorical face, surrounded with tulip leaves. Photograph frames o f hand carved sandal wood, which can be had for $3.50, are pretty as well as fragrant. There are little doors which close over the picture if desired, or they can remain open. There was also a small oval carved frame to hang on the wall at the same price. Sheer handkerchiefs o f linen with narrow tinted borders and initials are 25 cents each and are nice for morning use. Useful little imita tion tortoise shell barrettes for keeping the stray hairs at the nape o f the neck in perfect order are only 1 o cents each, and come in a variety o f shapes, such as large and small crescents, horseshoes, bars, circles and oblongs. T h e real shell ones are from 25 cents up, according to size and quality. O f great convenience when traveling or visiting will be found the small apparatus for heating an iron by gas. W ho is there who has not occasionally felt the inconvenience o f being forced to wear a crumpled frock or bodice upon first arrival at a hotel or country house ? T his useful little article which is connected by a rubber pipe to the gas je t, obviates this possi bility and allows one to appear in all the glory o f freshness and daintiness,after no matter how long a journey. T h e apparatus is small and can be easily placed in a traveling bag or valise and can be bought for $ 1.2 5 . An under vest, which has been designed es pecially for wear with decollete or open bodices, is o f fine lisle thread. T h e lower part is plain, and from just below the bust, and a correspond ing hight in the back, it is openwork, and is lightly fuller. T his fullness is drawn away from the centre, and fastens with ribbons on the shoulders. T h e arm holes are finished with lisle thread lace. T his makes a very use ful and pretty garment, and is only 50 cents. Cheviots with whipcord or covert finish, suit able for golf or rainy-day skirts, are only j i . 9 5 a yard, fifty-six inches wide. T hey are revers ible, and one simple but good style was o f dark blue and blue and white check, with what is known as hard finish. Another was o f blue with a rough surface, with under side o f bright plaid. T h e price o f this was $2.25 per yard. Little stick-pins o f sterling silver, with an imitation emerald, ruby or sapphire sunken in a round rim o f silver, are very useful as well as ornamental articles, and can be had for the small sum o f 15 cents. These can also be bought in gilt for even less. A pretty shade o f pale blue silk with fleurde-lis pattern, is very dainty. T h e silk is called Velour de Laundre, and has an under weave o f white which gives it a most lovely sheen; price, $ 1.2 5 a yard. T h is would be an ideal lining for a short opera wrap. A novel slipper is best described as a high pump. T h e heels, instead o f being flat, are Louis xv , and the shoe does not end with a low vamp, but is carried up to about the hight o f the second eyelet o f an Oxford tie. A flat gros-grain silk bow, such as is worn on an or dinary pump, finishes the slipper. There is no

name for it, but I should call it an Oxford pump, as it is something between these two styles. T h e slipper is glove-fitting, made o f patent leather, and is very light ; price, $j .

SM A R T FA SH IO N S FOR T E D INCOM ES
BLESSED MID-SEASON

LIM I

Hese mid-seasons are an inestimable boon to all conditions o f women in the matter o f dress, as they bring a much needed lull at the time domestic demands require the utmost attention in various direc tions. In the early autumn with the heat of summer still lingering, one needs bracing up for the brisk attacks to be made upon shops ; for the constant running about after the housedressmaking has been set in motion, and the search is on for what is next-best to suit alterations, for matching is never depended upon nowadays. T hen there is that exhaust ing chase after the places where the sales are cheapest, and after that come fittin g en gagements, the trying-on strains o f tem per, when the dressmaker or tailor happens to be a makeshift or a failure. There come also days o f broken promises, when fairy-tales are told to beguile the unwary, days when crushing disappointments turn up, and new gowns fail to

and two smaller pipings for heading. It is hung over a taffeta lining o f the same shade. T his bolero idea may be carried out in cheaper silks, as it is not imperative to buy a brocade o f this quality, unless one should find a cheap remnant, as the wearer o f this one did, at a late spring sale, a two-yard length sufficing. There are pretty fancy silks selling at $1 and $ 1.2 5 per yard, which would turn out prettily. So would a remnant o f cachemire panne, in pale colors. T hen too, in order to have the benefit o f two distinct gowns, there should be a gray bodice, high-necked, to match the skirt for street wear, and very little more expenditure would secure it.
EVOLUTION

or

A BLACK LACE SACQUE

Another bit o f economy for those having an old-fashioned black lace sacque, once such modish wear, is to take the loose wide back, and turn it into waist form, by putting a single box-plait down the middle. It will be neces sary to have a bodice o f silk or satin, in some solid color over which black lace looks well. Have this fitted with a plain back, and a vest front low enough in the neck to show a few inches o f chemisette, if the neck needs to be covered for day wear, and to show a necklet if for house wear. These fronts near the neck fasten either with two clusters o f small fancy buttons, or two large ones, one side lapping

that is, slenderness is still favored and promises to be for another season. Consequently, cling ing draperies are to remain in vogue. Pliable materials are seen, and woolens and silks, as well as velvets, remain fit for the same mani pulations that we have been accustomed to in the past year. Undoubtedly the cachemire cloths and those fine satin-finish cloths, as well as light-weight camel s-hair materials and the silk and wool weavings, are to be combined with peau de soie, soft taffetas and Leuisienne silks, which came into favor last season. V el vets remain, too, in that lightness o f weight which renders them so easily worn, and that adorable panne o f which we have never tired is, if anything, more beautiful and more modish than ever. T h e same periods o f the two Louises seem to offer to designers o f silks untold variety o f form and inspiration. Certainly none would acknowledge a weariness o f such grace, such entrancing colon and such gay spirited combinations in faultless taste. But that novelties undreamed o f are to appear later no one can for a moment doubt.
BLACK A ND GOLD---- RED PROMISES TO BE POP-

Touches o f black and o f gold, may be more elaborate, it is thought, and there is also, the importers declare, a strong leaning toward reds in millinery and gown fabrics, not vividly so, but blended in, or kept within boundary lines of contrast. As a winter color, well used, in all the shades possible to present manufacture, the result cannot but win favor tor its becom ingness. In summer, as we have just experi enced, red is a reckless color, out o f tune with our surroundings generally. There are some situations when it is suitably worn, such as cool days when sailing, driving, and golfing are the order o f the day or period, on the sands o f the seashore, or when strolling through groves or woodlands. Even then, its success depends upon the manner in which white or black steps in to break its vividness and subdue its all per vading assertiveness. Perhaps no other color betrays so quickly the lack o f the wearer s natural taste, as red always does. There is a brutality about it which a man or woman with the gift o f harmony o f color well developed, never could put to the uses which are fre quently seen in personal wear instances where the eye is color-blind, the sense o f color dull and unresponsive.

W H E N D IN IN G O U T
THE R IK K I-T IK K I-T THE EAMSEY

Smart models from Phipps & Atchison

appear for such and such engagement, etc., etc., all o f which experiences may fall to the lot o f the best manager o f dress affairs. There fore is this interlude to be made much of, and to be used as wisely as possible, so as to steer out o f these vexations to the best o f our abilities.
PRETTY U T IL IT Y GOWN OF WOOL GRENADINE

In spite o f the calendar summer gowns have lost none o f their attraction. T h e ethereal lawns and organdies have suitable weather still and for a chance day o f coolness, voiles and silk-fined grenadines are found to be most fit. A n exceedingly pretty combination is a light gray woolen grenadine ; for a long skirt, with a pale pink silk tight-fitting bodice, covered by the soft light easy drapery o f point d esprit lace, finely plisse and carried up into the neckband. W orn with this is a charming bolero consist ing o f a brocaded gray satin with pink flowers tied up with a narrow white satin ribbon. Imagine how dainty that is ! T his bolero is unlined. T h e elbow sleeves are turned up with cuffs to match, while the corsage both back and front is slit into a V shape. On the sides o f these openings, which are finished first with a ribbon binding, is laid a two-inch wide pearl passementerie. W here the points meet are large pearl buttons. On the buttom o f this bolero no trimming is required; neither is any needed on the flare o f the elbow sleeves. T h e inside finish is a pink silk facing. A white satin belt closed with a gold buckle is worn over the point d esprit bodice. T h e skirt is made w ith a medium flare flounce, which has on the bottom a single piping o f the same,

over slightly. T h e lower part o f vest is rounded slightly, thus giving an open middle space above the centre o f the belt, but the rest o f each vest front enters with the back part into the skirt band securely. It goes without saying that the lace sack mentioned has to be cut away under the arm, and that much o f the superflu ous length is also cut away. T hen the boxplaited back is ready to be draped into an easy fit, while the lace fronts are laid far from the middle, necessitating, also, that the lace be cut on the shoulders to keep in place the finished front edge when it is drawn back. A slight fulness at the waist line then draws these fronts into place at the belt. T his gives a narrow shoulder line o f lace, and a pretty vest effect o f uncovered silk with the lace continued down on either side. A s the sleeves o f these sacques were long, and often discovered to be rather worn at the elbows, it becomes very convenient to cut them o ff for modishness, letting the silk lining continue underneath, and finishing it off with lace by the yard. W here the silk vest is rounded, fill up the space so made by gathering some black lace into a jabot fullness at that spot, but have a care to keep it from pressing outward too far, as it would destroy the outline o f the figure. Such a jacket is dressy enough for any dinner not ceremonious, and it may be worn with a white, a black, gray or fawn skirt. A gold ribbon belt is advisable, as a touch o f gold is now the cachet o f smartness on nearly every dressy toilette.
CU N G IN G DRAPERIES AND LOUIS DESIGNS

H e custom o f restaurant dining at least once a week is well established as a feature o f metropolitan life. For the diner, bored and perplexed by an interminable printed bill o f fare, this menu is prepared. Oysters : Large Cape Cod. Stuffed Olives. Celery. Soup a la Reine. Soft Shell Crabs. Timbales o f Chicken fill with mushrooms. Duckling with new Lima beans. Green Corn cut from ear and sweet red peppers cut long, added. Served on lettuce as a salad with French dressing. Bar le D uc Strawberries and cream cheese. Ice Cream served in canteloupe. Cognac. Black Coffee. Liqueurs. Champagne : Pommery served throughout be ginning with the soup.

BACK

NUM BERS VOGUE

OF

T h e few French hints received up to date indicate no change in the lines o f the figure

Copies o f Vigue three months old are 20 cents each, and the price in creases 5 cents a copy f o r each ad ditional three months ; i. e., a paper three months old is 20 cents; a paper six months old is 25 cents ; a paper nine months old is 3 0 cents ; a paper one year old is j j cents and so on. Readers ordering back num bers should make their remittances accord with this scale o f prices to avoid disappointment and delay.

UNDESERVED A N D UNDESIRABLE P U B L IC I T Y ----SO C IE T Y TH E GREAT STELLA * AGGREGA

TIO N ----UNLIKENESS OF ENGLISH AND A M ERICAN LEISURE-CLASS MEN

---- T IM E A H A LT WAS CALLED IN TH E CHRONIC LING OF TH E SM ALL BEER OF

PERSONAL GOSSIP

N these mellow autumn days, watching the progress o f my house, with its walls rap idly rising, and at the same time regret fully seeing one by one the trees, first in brown and russet, and then in red, and then bare in the frosty wind, I have again cultivated a man ner o f musing and o f turning over in my mind the affairs o f the nation. O ne is always more or less upset in a presi dential year ; frequent elections may be demo cratic in their way, but the mode is antiquated. It did very well when the republic was in its infancy and the great west was a wilderness ; to-day it upsets everyone. It is difficult even to control one s employees, or to get any w ork done in a satisfactory manner. One o f the issues o f this campaign is the old contest be tween Labor and Capital, botlr spelled with very big capitals. I avoid religious discussions and politics, but I think that I may be allowed to prate about them in the abstract. I have begun to think that we are all on a stage ; publicity in this country has made us theatrical. W e strut and play to the galleries. W e imagine ourselves original, and we take an especial pride in keeping up the part. Here is one man who is a philanthropist. H ow he beams upon everyone in his walks abroad ! His tailor has actually caught the spirit, and you can know him immediately by the cut o f his coat. W e have an alphabet o f public charac ters, and in the newspapers we know that D stands for humorous stories, V for unbounded wealth, and so on. These ideas are now adopted by the theatre. It was only the other evening that we went on a little excursion to the playhouse in the neighboring town. A s in all provincial places, it staggered under the nama of Opera House. A traveling burlesque company held the boards. T h e company had been at Newport and other watering-places in their strollings, and the actors and actresses had read o f the people o f wealth and [fashion, and many references were made to individuals by name, and these were greeted with great ap plause by the country audience. T h e country people and those in the provinces read assidu ously the newspapers, and especially the ac counts o f entertainments o f all kinds. Say w hat you w ill, Newport and Bar Harbor, New Y o r k in its season, or Philadelphia or W ash ington become theatres, and the curtain rises on a play, a drama or a comedy each day in the year. T h e personages who compose society are as w ell known by name at Smith s Comers, where their doings are discussed by the sewing society and at the tavern at night, as at N ew port itself. W h at are you going to do about it ? W h o is to blame ? T h e people them selves or men like m y good friend, Tom m y Plumeover ? I have often suspected that he had latent qualities as a playwright or a novel ist, and that he is wasting bis great talents in m aking amusing puppets, in a manner after T hackeray, o f some very ordinary and stupid people in his daily and weekly column o f that w hich frequently does not occur in society. W e become accustomed to see ourselves starred, and we feel that we must live up to the acquirements expected as a star. W e are the great stellar aggregation. N ow and then some reverend gentlemen or some one in literature who has only sniffed the battle from afar, shocked and goaded by T om m y s picturesque descriptions o f the amounts lost in Bridge W hist or the sinfulness o f Sunday golf, starts ahead and hurls invectives against us. I won der i f T om m y s conscience is ever moved. I wonder i f he thinks for a moment that all this world o f fashion depicted by him and his conemporaries, is merely fictitious. T h e people who read o f themselves hardly recognize their own entities. Others unfortunately, as I have already said, want to live up to the characters given them, and they begin to assume the role at once. T h is importance is all imaginary ; it s a figment o f Tom m y s brain and the delusion

of a few managing editors w ho think it goes well with pictures. Every one must be written up nowadays, and lik e Prince Paul in the Grande Duchess, mnay pass their days scanning the newspapers to see w hat is said o f them. A ll these reflections have been inspired by what I consider a very extraordinary public manifestation. A young man, the son o f a millionaire, brought up in luxury, a college graduate, brilliant, modest and settled in his convictions as to his life w ork, goes into the Church and takes H oly Orders. A few years ago, another young millionaire had the same idea, and went abroad with the purpose o f study ing there for the same object. In England, every young man has a career; one son looks after the property and is the heir, and in a large family you w ill always find for younger sons the army, the navy and the church. O f late years, England has become very demo cratic, and many younger sons go into stockbrokerage, into finance, into real estate and in fact become city men. T h e reason o f this is plain : we are living in the golden a g e ; money is the great essential. However, should even a prince o f the blood go into the church, there would be a few paragraphs in the newspapers about it, and then you would hear no more unless the young clergyman distinguished him self. O n the other hand, the newspapers have been filled with descriptions o f the American millionaire s son, as i f it were the strangest thing in the world that a young man o f talent and o f noble purpose, should choose to go forth and teach and take up the w ork o f his Master. Another young millionaire has a Bible class. A t once pictures are published nearly every Sunday o f him and his pupils, together with illustrations o f his lessons and his w ork. T h e great trouble with the wealthy young men o f America is that they have nothing to do. A gentleman o f leisure on this side o f the ocean, and one on the other are beings o f quite differ ent order. Perhaps the European has had centuries o f practice, and ho knows even how to make a business out o f doing nothing. H ow I re member the young Americans abroad going from cafe to cafe, from American bar to American bar in the various continental cities, and being bored to death in a short time. W e are bored to death everywhere. W e cannot stop in one place a very long time. I confess myself if the estate had not to be looked after occasionally, I should myself be in a very bad way. But I have tried to model m yself upon those who have cultivated the art o f doing nothing, and when I am at a loss for occupa tion, I put out to sea or try absolute change o f scene. But I find very few men who, even if they have the same resources, care to make use o f them. T h ey prefer to go through the same treadmill day after day, and be miserable three quarters o f the year. But to return to my millionaires. It would seem as if it would be more difficult to go through the eye o f a needle than for a rich man s son to take up the w ork o f evangelizing. O f course i f I should suggest to many pious Christian friends that we have again arrived at the age when golden calfs were set up in tem ples, I should be looked at with horror and as one guilty o f blasphemy. T h e notoriety in these cases to which I have refered has not been sought, far from it. It is most distasteful. But T om m y Plumeover, representing the pub lic mind and the public taste and the public curiosity, has dragged these young men from their retirement, and without a word in regard to the benefits which these neophytes can bestow upon their flocks and the splendid equip ment, in an age o f money, they can bring to the fulfilment o f their w ork, by having that one essential and being able to fight the powers o f evil with the devil s own weapons. N o. I see nothing o f that kind, but it is simply a song o f money, money, money. T h e public, through T om m y Plumeover, demand that certain men appear on the boards and in full glare o f the lime light and go through their little act. Nolens volens they are dragged on the stage and are made stars. Some o f them unfortunately imagine that this is really true importance and they take advantage o f i t ; and they endeavor to bring down the house. I have begun to think that there is a middle course in life, especially in America. I f I were king, I should expect the Court Chroni cle to tell my subjects when and where I drove abroad, and who were my guests at the State

dinner in the evening, and when and where I was to lay the next cornerstone, open the next bazar or dedicate the next bridge. But I do not wish to shine in a reflected light. I have begun to differ from the published views o f M r. Gerry in regard to publicity. For years, I know that he was most opposed to anything o f the kind, and now like many others he settles himself down with a sigh o f resignation and says as we all do, I f they must have these details, let them at least have them correctly. But I think it is high time to stop i t ; we have much with w hich to contend. Our tradespeople will give away our doings because it advertises them, and we know very well that when we read o f certain dinners and decorations, written in T om m y s most fluent and delicious style, that under the very flowers we see the cloven foot o f Smith & C o ., T h e Marigold Florists, or the band master who leads our little orchestra or one o f the artists we have em ployed to sing or recite for us or someone o f the household interested in placing him or her self before the public. So what can we do ?

T H E W E L L -D R E S S E D
A NALYSIS FABRICS OF IT F IT OF

M AN

SINGLE-BREASTED FROCK CO A T IM M IN E N T A N M A TE R IA L NEW TROUSERS AND

CU T

W AISTCOATS----M A N Y NEW SHAPES

ccording to the opinions o f some fash ionable tailors, the single-breasted frock coat, worn by the Prince o f W ales at the Queen s garden party at Bucking ham Palace during July, and spoken o f in this article under date o f 1 6 A ugust, is to be the smartest afternoon garment o f the coming winter. I f for no other reason than that there has been ample time to tire o f the old style, these opinions should prove to be co rre ct; but there are other reasons, the ch ief o f which is that really smart dress must be distinctive. It is undoubtedly true that more is required than the mere simple cut o f a coat to make a well-dressed man ; but, nevertheless, there must from time to time be a return to an old fashion or a pro gression to something new, in order that oneh a lf o f the world may not wear the exact types o f clothes worn by the other half. One o f the first principles o f society ( using the word in its narrow sense) is exclusiveness, and the rule applies to dress almost as strongly as it does to manners, customs and social etiquette. Just so long as a thing can be confined to the use o f a certain class it has a fair chance o f retaining its place in the social scale; but when, through the imitation o f the masses an imitation often thrust upon them quite as much as striven after by them a thing becomes so universally in use as to bear the stamp o f commonness ; then its doom is sealed. T h is, it seems to me, is likely to be the case with the double-breasted frock coat, w hich, though as for as looks and general utility are concerned, is as good now as ever, and over w hich perhaps the single-breasted type is in those respects no improvement; still, it is so generally owned and worn by every class o f civilized man, from the king in his palace to the beggar at the gate, that some change seems inevitable among smartly dressed men. I hope my meaning may not be m istaken; it is not by any means intended that the double-breasted frock may not be worn by well-dressed men and be as good style as it ever was, but merely that because o f the feet it w ill be more generally worn by all classes, whereas the single-breasted type w ill, as seems likely, be worn at first only by a comparatively small number o f men, the latter w ill be somewhat the smarter o f the two. T hough there may be some slight and im material changes made by our tailors in the construction o f this garment and there are certain to be some in case they see, or think they see, any possible chance o f improving it in the main it will be modeled after the coat worn by the Prince, for the details o f which I am indebted both to one o f our most fashion able tailors, whose model I have seen, and to a description in the August number o f Fashion, stated to be from information supplied by the maker. It is made on the general lines o f thedoublebreasted coat ; that is to say, with the similar shoulders, back and waist lines, so that from

behind one style might easily be mistaken for the other. In length it is somewhat shorter than the fashionable frock coat o f last winter, the bottom of the skirts falling to within an inch and a h a lf o f the knees instead o f reach ing a trifle below the knees, as was the fashion o f the past season. T h e waist line, which runs around almost straight from the lowest button in front to the top o f the tails at the back, is fairly high, though no more so than the waist line o f the frocks o f the past season ; the front o f the coat, which is worn open, falls straight and close to the body. T h e skirts hang smoothly from the waist, and have some little belled appearance, w hich is caused by that line, but they are without the fulness o f mate rial given to the double-breasted garment. T h e lapels, which are full faced with silk o f fine quality running well back into the coat, are o f one piece with the coat, somewhat narrower than the lapels o f the double-breasted frock, but o f practically the same shape. There is a but tonhole on the left lapel, and the top button o f the three on the front, which are covered with the same material as that o f which the coat is made, is placed just at the end o f the lapels. T h e sleeves are cut to fit fairly close from the elbow to the cuffs, and have three buttons, these being also covered with the coat mate rial. There is little change in the cut or fashion o f the double-breasted frock, the full facing talked about during last winter, and from time to time since then, not having materialized, and braid or ribbon binding being decidedly the exception. In England the binding o f the af ternoon and morning coat was, I believe, so usual as to have amounted to a fashion, but in this country it has not been popular since the old days o f diagonal cutaways. M any coats are given somewhat o f a cu ff effect on the sleeves by a very narrow edging, but braid, ex cept upon the outer seam o f evening trousers, is rarely used. In having a frock coat made, whether it be o f the single or double-breasted variety, the greatest care should be taken to get a perfect cut o f shoulders and waistline. I have not used the word fit advisedly, because though, o f course, every garment should fit, the words are by no means synonymous. A coat that fitted like a glove would, besides being ex tremely uncomfortable, accentuate any defi ciencies o f figure one might happen to possess, and the deficiencies are precisely what a well cut garment should conceal. I have seen de cidedly round-shouldered men given most beau tifully square shoulders by a well-cut coat, and others w ith shallow chests made to look broad and athletic. Assuming, however, that one is a well-built figure, the elements o f style in a frock coat and this should apply as well to either the single- 01 double-breasted type are very sharply cut in side lines to give as much breadth to the shoulders, and as narrow a waist as possible. T h e turn over the hips should be smooth, and in the double-breasted frock there should be a good deal o f fullness o f material about the skirts. T h e matter o f material is always a question, and it is so dependent upon individual taste and preference that there must necessarily be some hesitancy in advising. V icuna, cachemire, Shetland and cheviots are all used, in various weights, and either black or the darker shades o f gray. Black is always good form, and the most useful, perhaps for all occasions, but the dark gray tones have often more style and a smarter appearance. Medium grays for autumn are not too light, but for all around wear in autumn and winter the darker shades are the best. There will be no change in the trousers to be worn with afternoon clothes, the striped worsteds and cachemires being the most in vogue. Some o f the French cloths struck me as being rather prettier than those from the English mills, which seemed to bear a great re semblance one to another, but, after all, there are an infinite number and variety from which to select. T h e stripes should not be too large and noticeable, but still they should have seme character and not be entirely lost and meaning less. D ark grays are, generally speaking, the smartest for winter wear. In cut trousers for afternoon wear with a frock or dark morning coat, should not be quite as broad as those o f the lounge suit, but they should be straight in the leg, and made to set well over the boots
(C o n tin u e d on p ig e 190)

188

The Correct Hat for Morning W ear

Now Largely Worn In Paris and London
M ade R ibbon B lack of Stiff F elt in black or L ig h t ot

Pea rl C o l o r , T r i m m e d w i t h W h i t e T a f f e t a and Spanish C o c q u e and Pompon W h i t e ....................................................

T o be had from any first-class shop throughout the United States. I f, how ever, your dealer does not happen to have it, write direct to the factory and w e w ill see that he is supplied with the hat you desire.
M AN UFACTU RED O N LY BY

B . Lichtenstein
129 West 32d St., New York
THE NAME L IC H T E N S T E IN IN A HAT MEANS CHARACTER AND TONE

*9

(Continued from page 183) from another, and in other cases varying con devour them, occasionally exterminate them by were ranged Catholic popes and Protestant without wrinkling. T h e crease is, o f course, siderably, although made by equally smart and benevolent assimilation. But this was not the archbishops, and kings and queens, Protestant as essential now as ever, and nothing hurts the fashionable hatters, that it would be o f little reason ot their being created : what that reason and Catholic, and great mediaeval jurists, and shape so much as to allow it to get out, or to value to describe them in any detail; and I was in the Creator s mind, no one knew or mailed knights and palm-bearing soldiers o f the permit any bagging at the knees. Evidently this have always considered the best plan is to en would ever know. cross, and holy inquisitors drowning poor old be may be prevented by proper wear and care, but deavor to suit one s hat to one s individual type M an seizes and uses you, said David, wildered women, tearing living flesh from flesh at any rate, unless the cloth has bccome o f head and face. One must not, o f course, working that day in his barn; but you are no as paper, crushing bones like glass, burning the stretched out o f all shape, the right kind o f so disregard the prevailing fashion as to call at more his than he .is yours. He calls you de shrieking human body to cinders: this in the pressing will remedy it. tention to one s hat by having it o f a style that pendent creatures: who has made you de name o f a Christ whose Gospel was mercy, and Trousers o f sack or lounge suits are some is fantastic or entirely out o f d a te; but it is far pendent ? In a state o f wild nature, there is not by the authority o f a God whose law was love. what fuller than those intended for afternoon or better policy to wear a hat that is becoming one o f you that man would dare m ee t: not the T h ey were all there, tier after tier, tow above evening wear, and when o f flannel the custom than one that is not, notwithstanding the nar wild stallion, not the wild bull, not the wild row, a vast shadowy colosseum o f intent judi has been, and still is to turn them up at the row lines o f convention and the dictates o f pre boar, not even an angry ram. T h e argument cial feces Defenders o f the Faith. bottom. There is a good deal o f fullness over cise fashion. How. that man s whole physical constitution But no inquisitor was in this room now, the thighs, and a gradually increasing narrow structure and function - shows that he was in nor punitive intention, nor unkind thought. ness down the leg to the bottom, but the lines tended to live on beef and mutton, is no better Slowly throughout the emerging life o f man should be perfectly straight in cut, and not than the argument that the tiger finds man per this identical trial has gained steadily in charity follow even in the slightest degree the shape o f fectly adapted to his system as a food, and and mildness. Looking backward over his the leg. desires none better. Every man-eating creature long pathway through bordering mysteries, man There are no noticeable changes in the cut thinks the same : the w o lf believes man to be himself has been brought to see, time and [ N o t e . B o o k s are selected for rev iew in V og u e o f the sack suit, and it seems probable that his prey; the crocodile believes him to be his; again, that what was his doubt was his ignor ch ie fly w ith regard to the in te rest th e y have for its there w ill be none for several months to come, read ers. In q u irie s addressed to V o g u e co n ce rn an old lion is probably sure that a man s young ance; what was his faith was his error; that although there is, o f course, no foretelling in g th e en tertain in g or in stru ctive q u a litie s o f new wife is designed for his maw alone So she is, things rejected have become believed, and that what the winter may bring forth. W ith the pu b lication s w ill rec eiv e im m ed iate a tten tion .] if he manages to catch her. things believed have become rejected; that both change from unlined to lined jackets, the his doubt and his faith are the temporary con T H E R EIG N O F L A W patch pocket will be less used, but in shortness dition o f his knowledge, which is evergrowing; And then David was no hermit nor was he and general cut the winter sack coat w ill so absorbed by problems that he was proof and that rend him faith and doubt ever will, but THE M ACM ILLAN follow closely the lines o f the summer flannel B Y JAMES LA N E A LLE N . destroy him, never. against romantic love so that those readers who COM PANY jacket, being rather straight in front, and with No Smithfield fire,then, no Jesuitical rack, must have love in a story need not fear being a slight spring to the side seams. T h e centre no cup o f hemlock, no thumb-screw, no tor More intelligent Othing in connection with this book cheated o f that element. seam in the back is now rather unusual in the ture of any kind for David. Still, here was a has been more interesting and at the readers will find much else in the book to ad duty to be done, an awful responsibility to be ordinary lounge coat, and there are no slits same time disheartening, than the mire. How strong a scene and how suggestive discharged in sorrow and with prayer; and either behind or on the sides. Until the weather becomes really cool flannel will remain account given by a librarian in Kentucky as to it is made by the author, where David the grave good men they were. Blameless was as much in vogue as ever, and even after the the comments made in regard to it by some doubter is cited to appear before the professors this lad in all their eyes save in his doubt. frost has set in the material in heavier grades women subscribers. One objected to it be o f a Bible College and his pastor. But to doubt was not that the greatest o f will be used. I have seen some extremely pretty cause it is full o f impossible descriptions sin s? winter flannels in dark colors with indistinct about hemp,and my husband is a tobacconist. Old, old scene in the history ot man line and plaid markings, the mixtures o f red and W as ever there a more acute instance o f a the trial o f his Doubt by his Faith s strange Gabriella, the one being who appreciates green being particularly good. Browns and waste o f pearls o f thought? Amazing is it day o f judgment, when one-half o f the human David, is a Southerner bereft o f house and kin brown and red mixtures also bid fair to be that any one beyond the public school primary spirit arraigns and condemns the other half. dred by the Civil W ar. Thus is the position smart for autumn suits, the latter being espe department can read M r. Allen s prose-song o f Only five persons sat in that room four men o f the two sketched : cially good for cool, crisp days. There is a the hemp, instinct with fancy and sympathy, and a boy. T h e room was o f four bare walls certain warmth in these colors as attractive to without being touched by its beauty and pathos. and a blackboard, with perhaps a map or two o f Thus by the working out o f vast forces, the eye on a cold day as blue and white, on It is a fitting prelude, as it was designed to be, Palestine, Egypt, and the Roman Empire in the account o f their coolness are on a warm after for the life which is sketched in the pages that time o f Paul. T h e era was the winter o f the the lives o f Gabriella and David had been noon in summer. For the rest, black, dark follow. One o f the women library subscribers year 1868, the place was an old town o f the jostled violently together. T h ey were the blues and the gray mixtures will all be in evi already referred to declined to finish the book Anglo-Saxon backwoodsmen, on the blue-grass children o f two retolutions, separate yet having dence. I have been struck during the past few because she had read sixty-five pages and there highlands o f Kentucky. But in how many a common end : she produced by the social weeks by the apparent popularity o f the Norfolk was not a single word o f love in it. Another other places has that scene been enacted, before revolution o f the N ew W orld, which over jacket as a style o f country lounging dress, and said she was bored with so much religion and what other audiences o f the accusing and the threw mediaeval slavery; he by the intellectual have noticed a number o f full suits o f tweed. no story. For the credit o f Louisville, K y ., accused, under what laws o f trial, with what revolution o f the Old W orld, which began to Many are made with a square yoke over the it should be recorded that not all the women degrees and rigors o f judgm en t! Behind David, put forth scientific law, but in doing this shoulders, the plaits running from this to the readers thus proclaimed themselves illiterate; sitting solitary there in the flesh, the imagina brought on one o f the greatest ages o f religious bottom o f the coat One, as I remember, had a discriminating woman voiced what other tion beheld a throng so countless as to have doubt. So that both were early vestiges o f the the two usual plaits in front, and a single plait readers must have felt when she said : I feel been summoned and controlled by the deep ar same immeasurable race evolution, proceeding behind in the middle o f the back, while another that this man has laid bare his innermost raigning eye o f Dante alone. Unawares, he along converging lines. She, living on the was made with fly buttoning down the front, thoughts to us, his very soul s struggles for a stood at the head o f an invisible host, which artificial summits o f a decaying social order, had and without b elt; in reality not a Norfolk broad and true religion; that it is James Lane stretched backward through time till it could be farthest to fal], in its collapse, ere she reached jacket at all, or at any rate a variation o f it. Allen s mind and soul that we are examining traced no farther. Witnesses all to that sub the natural earth; he, toiling at the bottom, I saw several o f these garments during a recent beneath a microscope. These diverse sum- lime, indispensable part o f man which is his had farthest to rise before he could look out visit in the country, that were made o f light mings up o f a fine work were written out by a Doubt Doubt respecting his origin, his mean upon the plains o f widening modern thought flannel and worn with long trousers as well as K entucky librarian and published in the N ew ing, his M aker, and his destiny. T h at per and man s evolving destiny. Through her fall w ith knickerbockers and ribbed woolen stock Y o rk Times. T h ey represent probably the petual half-night o f his planet-mind that and his rise, they had been brought to a com ings. T h ey had patched pockets with buttons popular and ignorant and the discriminating and shadowed side o f his orbit-lite forever attracted mon level. But on that level all that had be fastening to the flaps, and one or two were cultured opinion o f the book in every com and held in place by the force o f Deity, but fallen her had driven her as out o f a blinding made with cuffs on the sleeves. A n extremely munity. destined never to receive its light. Y e t from storm into the church, the seat and asylum o f good autumn shooting suit for easy country David, so fitly named, is the sincere man o f that chill, bleak side what things have not religion; all that had befallen him had driven consists o f an ordinary cloth cap with fairly low enlightenment whose discipline it is to stand at reached round and caught the sun ! And as o f him out of the churches as the fortifications o f vizor, a N orfolk jacket o f tweed with large the cross roads as the old order begins to yield the earth s plants, some grow best and are theology. She had been drawn to that part o f patch pockets, tweed knickerbockers, ribbed to the new while his struggles, his growth in sweetest in darkness, what strange blossoms o f worship which lasts and is divine; he had been woolen stockings and brown canvas gaiters over knowledge, his development through suffering faith open and are fragrant in that eternal um repelled by the part that passes and is hum an. a pair o f stout tan boots. There is more ease and position are presented sympathetically, and bra ! Sacred, sacred doubt o f man. His agony, about such a costume than there is about one at length; the part affection played in his ex his searching ! which has led him always on ON T H E B O O K C O U N T E R o f khaki or canvas, although as everyone who perience is also given space. David s tender ward from more ignorance to less ignorance, has ever traversed our forests primeval knows, care o f animals, his devotion to their interests, from less truth to more truth; which is the in T H E F L O W E R O F T H E F A M I L Y . By the latter materials are best for rough work. the pains he was at to spare them suffering, spiration o f his mind, the sorrow o f his heart; W . E. N o r r i s . D. A p p le to n a n d C om Concerning waistcoats, though we shall un make the heart o f the animal lover rejoice, for which has spoken everywhere in his science, pany. doubtedly see all kinds, I am inclined to think here is an advocate o f dumb things among the philosophy, literature, art in his religion itself; that for ordinary wear the single-breasted will brilliant, forceful writers who command the which keeps him humble not vain, changing Superbly handsome, young good-forbe somewhat the more fashionable. It should ear o f the public, for which the gods be not immutable, charitable not bigoted; which nothing is the hero o f this interna be rather short and cut feirly high. For even praised. Man in relation to other animals is attempts to solve the universe and knows that it tional tale in which a pretty Ameri ing wear the double-breasted white waistcoats thus set forth. does not solve it, but ever seeks to trace law, can widow is the most active agent. T h e o f various cuts will be worn, and with frock to clarify reason, and so to find whatever truth fortune hunters o f English high life are dis coat the white waistcoat o f duck, linen or David had formerly believed that these it can. played in all their ugly greed and sycophancy, pique will, it seems, be as popular as ever. In creatures were created for the use o f man that A s David sat before his professors and his and readers w ill doubtless regret that they this country the braided waistcoats have not yet old conceited notion that the entire earth was a pastor, it was one o f the moments that sum up finally brought down their game. W h at any become a fashion, and it :s to be hoped that planet o f provisions for human consumption. eivilization. sane woman o f independent means, in any state such will continue to be the case. W hite It had never even occurred to him to think Across the room, behind them also, what o f life, wants o f a selfish, lazy, ill-bred man, braiding on a white waistcoat might not be that the horses were made but to ride and to a throng ! Over on that side was Faith, that however Apollo-like he may be in appearance, positively ugly, but imagine the appearance o f w ork. Cows o f course gave milk for the sake radiant part o f the soul which directly basks in passes comprehension; but doubtless M r. black ! o f the dairy; cream rose on m ilk for ease in the light o f God, the sun. There, visible to Norris is true to fact when he represents hand T h e time for the calling in o f straw hats has skimming; when churned, it turned sour, that the eye o f imagination, were those o f all times, some young Strode as carrying all hearts before almost come. T h e 15th o f September used to the family might have fresh buttermilk. places, and races, who have sat in judgment on him. T h e tale makes no pretensions to being be considered the last day for summer head Hides were for shoes. T h e skin on sheep, it doubters, actual or suspected. In whatsoever intended other than as an amusing means of wear, but now that the country season has been was put there for man s woollens. else differing, united in this : that they have employing odd half hours. There is in it love lengthened, and the social world stays long N ow David declared that these beings always held themselves to be divinely appointed in abundance, plot, incident and characteriza away from town, another two weeks o f grace is were no more made for man than man was agents o f the Judge o f all the earth : His crea tion, and M r. Norris is a practiced hand at accorded it. There are so many shapes o f der made for them. M an might capture them, tures chosen to punish His creatures. And so writing. For most readers these will be merits bies, differing in some respects but little one keep them in captivity, break, train, use, behind those professors, away back in history, enough for one story.

190

THE WAIST HOUSE

JOHN FORSYTHE
is pleased to inform you that he is now exhibiting new styles in

KABO CORSETS
ARE

LADIES SHIRT WAISTS, EVENING DRESS WAISTS, and RECHERCHE NECKWEAR

Out o f town patrons desiring samples and other information arc invited to address

Quilted Lounging Sacques

These Dressing Sacques, or Lounging Jack ets, are tailor-made, silk both sides, collar, pockets, and cuffs trimmed with small diamond stitchings; colorings are black and lilac, black and crimson, brown and pink, brown and crim son, brown and blue, crimson and crimson, lilac and lilac, blue and white, pink and white. Ladies* Dressing Gowns, full length, same colorings and materials. T hen i f your d n goods store does not have these, write us. These sacques can be washed, retaining their form and style.

h e

n l y

o r se ts W IT H O U T

IN A L L T H E W O R L D

BRASS E Y E L E T S ,

and are made in S

t r a ig h t

r o n t s

JO H N F O R S Y T H E
B etw een 17TH New
a n d

SEMI-STRAIGHT FRONTS, CURVED M O NTS AND THE CELEBRATED

i8 th

S treets

F o r m -R e d u c in g

K ab o York

w hich M agically reduces over-large figures or ALL DEALERS

Excelsior Quilting Company

15 Laight S tre e t, N ew York

OUR NEWLY IMPROVED

FRENCH CORSET
IS TH E ONLY GENUINE FRENCH CORSET M AD E IN TH E CITY All we desire is to have the ladies call and examine Our Corsets and be convinced that we give entire satisfaction in every respect. We never ask a customer to take a corset, whether ready-made or made to order, unless they are satisfied that it is a perfect fit. Our F re n c h Corset is made in Coutille. Price from $8.00 to $18.00. Also made in Si'.k or Linen Batiste. Price from $15.00 to *JS.oo. The best bone only used.

Its Silky and doesnt rub the Shoes

\
V

'

The Maynard Sweater

C o rre ct for C o l fin e . W a lk in g , D r iv in g , B o a tin g and all A ih ic n c w ear

V IA U S A B D O M IN A L C O R SE T S
With latest improvementwe guarantee them to give the best satisfaction of any corset made. We have demand for them from every part of the world; they are recommended by all Physicians. Price from We also make a corset for deformed ladies. By the use of a patent spring any de formity is overcome in any part of the body. If one side of the body is smaller than the other, it ran be made to appear per fectly straight. Promptness and satisfac tion guaranteed. Send for Circular.
$5.00 ud.

New Century Brush Binding

everyw here.

is especially

adapted for fine skirts, and has been adopted by the best trade It differs materially from all other brush bindings, and once seen is sufficient to insure its use. Samples for comparison on application. stores. Sold by D ry G oods

S E N S I B L E , C O M F O R T A B L E and B E C O M I N G T h e U n it t i S t a t u h ealth rep ort, in an a r t id e on H y g ie n e and S ensib le D ress, s a y s , W e find that th e A lic e M ay n ard G o lfin g S w e ate r is w orth y o f oar u n q ualified ed itorial e n d orse m e n t. AU w h o a r e in terested in g o lfin g and g olfin g dress w ill d o w e ll to av ail them selves o f th is h ia t w h ich w e are pleased to g iv e them for th e ir ben efit. V o g u e readers are rem inded th a t oth er e stab lish m ents are s h o w in g s w ea ters m odeled atter th e M a v . nard , but as th e stitch and pattern o f our sw eater is paten ted the sw ea te r cannot be cop ied in these im p ortant resp ects T h e correct garm ent m ay b e had o n ly a t our e stab lish m en t. P rice s from f f . o o to # H -oo a ccord in g to s ty le an d fin ish. In t t i k s n j m nJt f trdrr

The R. R. A P P L E T O N CO. Importers and Manufacturers

N e w Y o rk C hicago

M aterials and p attern for self-m ak in g sent for #1.50 l i htn rtm ittin g h c h tci, ro c tn tt it ft k itulm dtJ f* r C U sring H , * f fhmrgtt

B. VIAU
69 West 23d Street, N. Y.

A L I C E

M A Y N A R D
Rem oved to

St. L o u is San F22 rancisco W . 3 2 d S I ., N. Y . C ity .

VO GU ES W E E K L Y
NUMBER 8 2

P A TT E R N
9 OO

2 0 S IF T ., I

Ogue publishes one pattern a week. This gives the subscriber fifty-two de signs a year, carefully selected to meet the requirements o f the season. A ll the de signs are smart. T h e patterns are in one size only medium. T h e Vogue W eekly Patterns are at the uniform price o f fifty cents each if accompanied with a coupon cut from any num ber o f Vogue, or sixty cents without a coupon. Vogue supplies patterns o f its illustrations cut to order at special pnces, which will be sent on application.

new skirts flare very much at the bottom, and remain tight around the hips. T h e skirt illus trated in Vogue o f 6 September, on the pattern page, would look extremely well in tan broad cloth, with button molds covered with the same material, and stitching o f the same color as trimming.

He pattern for this week is for a short petticoat. T h is model may be de veloped in flannel or muslin, and trimmed with lace and insertion, or it may be more simply finished if desired. A well fitting yoke is a very good feature o f this model, as skirts and drawers should always fit snugly about the waist and hips.

Princesse gowns w ill again be worn for after noon and evening gowns, and nothing is prettier or more becoming i f well cut and worn by a woman o f good figure. A t a recent wedding the bridesmaid s gowns were madeen Princesse, A pretty and becoming gown for a young entirely o f ecru lace in a fine pattern over silk girl s dinner dress when at home is made o f o f the same color, with half belts and corsage blue cachemire o f a fine quality and plaited blue chou o f light blue. T his gown would also be chiffon or liberty silk. T h e skirt is double, the effective for the evening with long sleeves and under-skirt being covered to above the knees square drcollete neck. Elbow sleeve9 from with a plaited flounce o f chiffon. T h e over present indications will be as much worn dur skirt is three inches shorter than the under one ing the winter as they have been this summer. and slashed up on either side o f the front T hey are becoming to most women, if worn breadth, leaving an opening four inches wide at with gloves, and also more economical, as the the bottom and running up to a point at the top gloves do not have to be as long as those for o f the chiffon flounce. T h e entire over-dress full evening dress. Evening gowns with long is edged with applications o f narrow insertion

who is tall and slender these coats are most be coming. T h e lines on which they are made are much like those worn last year, the empire effect being perhaps the most popular. The collars are high, o f fur, or trimmed with stitched bands in a design or braided. T h e sleeves are a little larger at the. top than those worn last year and the cuffs are large and slightly flared at the wrist, coming well down on the hand, and usually trimmed to match the collar.

Baked bluefish stuffed with tomatoes au gratin Dressed cucumbers Patties o f mushrooms truffle Filet a la jardiniere Champagne Chicken liver en brochette Crab royale Cheese sticks Ice cream with marron Brandy sauce Fancy cakes Bon-bons Black coffee Brandy Cigarettes Cigars Liqueurs

REQUESTS

FOR

PATTERNS

Eaders o f Vogue who desire special pat terns published should send in their requests promptly. T h e pattern that is in most general demand will be published in preference to others. Up to this date the patterns published are s

W H IS P E R S
TO THE GIRL W ITH NOTHING A YEAR

He shirt waist does not lose its popu larity; therefore flannel and silk shirts will be seen in a great variety this autumn, to be worn with outing skirts and with the tailor suits. In flannel the. shirts are made of the pastel shades and embroidered. Many o f the new models are trimmed with silk o f a slightly lighter shade than the flannel. This silk is used as pipings on tucks for the stocks and belt. One pretty model is made entirely o f tucked light green flannel, the tucks run ning on the bias, and on every seventh tuck a piping o f velvet in the same shade. T h e sleeves are made in the same way. T h e stock is also o f flannel with double bow in front o f velvet. High corselet belt o f velvet with dull gold buckle. These bodices are really not shirts but fancy waists, and are only appro priately worn with tailor suits, not for golfing or other sports. T hen a plain tailor shirt should be worn. Another good model was made o f tan taffeta and ecru lace. T h e deep yoke back and front, top o f the sleeves and collar were entirely o f lace. T h e lower sleeves and bodice were o f silk laid in box plaits. T h e cuffs were narrow bands o f lace, and on left side o f the bodice was a large chou o f tan, white and light blue chiffon. T h e belt was o f taffeta.

Velvet bodices will also be worn this winter as well as those o f velveteen. Liberty velvet een makes lovely bodices, and wears extremely well. A n effective model is a pretty shade o f green, or brown, whichever is most becoming, made with a round yoke back and front with bishop s sleeves and a central box-plait, and standing collar. T h e narrow cu ff that con fined the fulness o f the sleeves, the collar, yoke and plait are embroidered with gold thread and blue filoselle in a simple design o f wheels and cross stitching, or you may have the velvet stamped with a fine design o f flowers and leaves, and embroider them with gold, light blue and green. T h e slippers for dress occasions this year seem to have higher heels than ever, and as they are more becoming, women will wear them even i f they are not good for the health. On dancing slippers the heels are lower. For street wear the shoes and boots are very sensi ble, with low heels, broad toes and extension soles. Tan shoes are not fashionable for city wear, and are seldom worn by well-dressed women except for tennis, go lf and bicycling ; for these uses they are more sensible, as they do not show the dust as much as black shoes. T h e patent-leather slippers with high heels and square rhinestone buckles, or those o f gold, are most popular for general evening wear, worn with openwork stockings o f black silk. Heavy black silk stockings look very well for golf and tennis, as they fit better and wear longer than a cotton stocking. T h ey must o f course be heavier than the ordinary silk stocking.
v o g u e s WEEKLY P ATTE RN--- NO.

82 ,

SHORT PETTICOAT

N o. * G o lf C a p e . No. 4 D rop S k irt. N o. 6 L a ce C u im p e . N o. 7 B re ak fast Ja ck et. N o. 8 Shirt W a i.t . N o. 11 L ig h t Sum m er S k irt. N o. 1 1 L igh t Summ er B odice of No. 1 1 . N o. 1} B a th in g Suit. N o. 14 T h r e e S to ck Collar*. N o. 15 L itt le B o y s F rock . N o. 16 L ittle G ir l * D ress. N o. 17 Eton Ja ck et. N o . 19 T i g h t F ittin g P ettico a t. N o. 20 L a d ie i* B louse W a ist. No. z i T h r e e Corset Covers. N o. 22 T h r e e -p ie c e S k irt, circular flounce. N o . 2$ F an cy W ra p . N o. 26 L a c e C o a t. N o. 2 7 C h e m ise and D raw ers. N o. 28 N ig h t G o w n . N o. 29 D ressing G ow n . N o. j o C om b in a tion C h e m ise and S k irt. N o. } ] C h ild s C o a t. N o. 34 S h irt W a is t. N o. )6 S ilk W a ist. No. ]8 G ir l's C o a t. N o. J9 J a ck e t w ith C a rrlck C a pes. N o. 40 T u c k e d S k irt w ith b o x-p laite d b a c k . N o. 4 ] B o x P laite d S k irt. N o. 44 F a n cy S ilk B od ice. N o. 45 C h ild s A fternoon F r o c k . N o. 46 D ressing Sacque. No. 47 P la in S hirt W a is t. No. 48 T h r e e Sleeves. No. 49 Bed Jacket. No. j o F a n cy W a s h W a is t . N o . JI Y o k e N ig h t G o w n . N o. 52 S k irt S u itab le for W a s h M a te ria l. N o. j j W a ist o f No. J2. No. 54 B o x P laite d Shirt. N o. 55 F ive-go red S k irt w ith tuck ed b a ck . N. 56 L ittle B o y s R ussian S uit. No. 57 T u c k e d S ilk E ton. N o. 58 Short S k ir t. No 59 Nine g ored T a ilo r S k irt. N o. 60 Ja ck et to be w orn w ith N o. 59. N o . 6 l F ar.cy L a ce Bolero. N o. 6 1 T u c k e d C ircu la r S k irt. N o. 6 j P la in T a ilo r S h irt. No. 64>C olla rlrss Eton. N o. 6? G ir l s W ash F r o ck . N o. 66 B a th in g Suit. No. 67 C ircu lar S k irt w ith tu ck ed flounce. N o. 68 F a n cy C a pe. N o. 69 K im o n a D ressing S ack. N o. 70 Short W a lk in g S k irt. No. 71 N orfolk J a c k e t. N o. 7 1 N ew Corset C o v e r s. N o. 7 } T h r e e - P ie c e S k irt w ith platted flouncc. N o. 74 F a n cy P e ttico a t. No. 75 Short-Sleeved N ig h tgo w n . N o. 76 Y o u n g G ir l s D ress. N o . 7 7 Sim ple D ressin g G o w n . N o. 78 C losed D raw ers. N o. 79 F lan n el S hirt. N o. 80 T a ilo r S k ir t. N o. 81 T a ilo r J a ck e t to be w orn w ith N o. 80. N o . 82 Sho rt P ettico a t. THK NEXT PATTERN WILL BB N o. 8{ F a n cy B louse.

For description, see this page.

Cut paper pattern N o. 8 2 sent on receipt

o f coupon with remittance o f fifty cents.

VOGUE
To sleeves are also most convenient for informal dinners, etc. A pretty house gown for a woman in mourn ing is made o f black crepe de chine, fine chif fon and white embroidered mull. T h e skirt is either shirred to the depth o f ten inches or tucked to the depth o f the knees ; from there the fullness is allowed to flare. T h e under skirt is o f black taffeta finished with several ruffles. T h e belt is o f black chiffon with a knot and long ends on the left side. T h e bodice is made with elbow sleeves finished with full ruffles o f embroidered mull. T h e front is slightly bloused, the back is plain, collar and vest o f shirred white chiffon, sailor collar square over the shoulders and running down to the waist line in a point o f embroidered mull. with wider pieces at the corners o f the openings, which are laced together over the plaited chiffon with narrow black velvet. T h e bodice is o f plaited blue chiffon with high collar and a lownecked short bolero o f cachemire appliqued with lace. T h e yoke, front and sleeves are elbow length, slashed and laced together with black velvet like the skirt over the plaited blue chif fon.

PATTERN
N ew Y ork

COUPON

V o gue , 3 W e s t 29TH S t r e e t

g N clo se d please find fifty cents, for which send by mail to my address below : Vogue Pattern N o. These patterns are made in medium size only. N am e................................................................... Address................................................................

FO R T H E H O STESS
M e n u for F o r m a l D i n n e r

Broadcloth o f a very fine quality promises to be very popular again this winter, and it de serves to be, for it is universally becoming, wears well, and even if it is more expensive at first, lasts much better than the rougher cloths. On dit, that the long coat will be as popular T a n , black, blue and brown all seem to be worn as much as they were last season. T h e next season as it was last, and for a woman

Sauteme

Celery

Martini cocktails Canapes de caviare Oysters on the half-shell Rolled brown bread Green turtle soup . Sherry Hors d oeuvres Olives Radishes Pimolas

T h i* coup on must b e filled in an d m ailed V o ft ie , w hen rem ittan ce is m ade for pattern.

to

192

ABOUT

SH OE

B U Y IN G

Here exists in the minds o f many people the idea that to purchase their furnish ings from Fifth Avenue shops is to pay in exorbitant prices the high rents which such establishments are obliged to pay. W e speak o f this lest there be any one who entertains such fallacious ideas concerning our business. W e maintain our handsome establishment on Fifth Avenue, where the very finest and most exclusive styles in shoes are to be found, but we rely upon large business rather than large profits to pay for our excellent location. A t Arnold s one-pays no more for the finest shoes that can be made than for a good shoe at any o f the so-called cheaper houses. It is this fact, together with the convenient location o f our establishment, that secures for us the patronage o f the most fastidious and dis criminating buyers and the excellence o f our shoes has caused us to be recognized as the regulators of shoe fashions.

Opening of T h e L in e n S t o r e s New Salesroom.

W e co rd ially in vite y o u r in spection o f our new and com m odious sale s room in the S p in n in g W h e e l B u ild in g, 3, 5, and 7 W e s t T w e n ty -s e c o n d S tre et. It is im m ed iately in the rear o f and connects w ith our T w e n ty -th ird S tre e t store, w hich has been co m p letely reo rg an ized and refitted. A ll o f our retail d ep artm en ts are now lo cate d on th e g r o u n d floor o f these tw o bu ild in gs a floor o f g o o d ligh t, broad aisles, and p erfect ven tilation . H e re our in com parable asso rtm en t o f T a b le and B e d L in en s, D ress L in ens, A r t L in ens, T o w e ls and H a n d k erch iefs m ay be ca re fu lly and leisu rely in sp ected an inspection, w hich, w e feel assu red , w ill fu lly ju s tify o u r rep uta tion as lead ers in the distribution o f fine flaxen products. O u r d ep a rtm en ts o f B ed C o v erin g s, F a n c y A r t M aterials, F re n ch and S co tch F lan n els, and rea d y m ade S ilk and F lan n el W a is ts are, likew ise, m ost co m p reh en sive. In e v e ry w ay, o u r facilities fo r p e rfe ctly sa tisfy in g th e n eeds o f o u r p atrons, are g r e a te r and b e tte r than e v e r before.
To those who cannot call and view these goods a word about our mail order departm ent: Through it the superior service and special advantages of The Linen Sto re m ay be enjoyed in all parts of the country a letter, at all times, receiving the same careful attention as a personal inquiry. On request we w ill mail free, our illustrated catalogue

There are doubtless many persons who upon their return to town will make their selections for the season s footwear, and to them we ex tend an invitation to visit our rooms, feeling certain that in the extent and variety o f our styles there may be models to suit them. Everything in foot wear for M en, Women and Children. W i l l i a m A r n o l d , 240 Fifth Avenue.

JAMES McCUTCHEON & CO.,

14 West 23d Street. 3, 5, and 7 W est 22d Street, N. Y.

P A T T E R N S
o f any design in any journal, also special unpublished imported

PERIODICALS
Year 6 mo*.

L A rt de la Mode, - $3.50 Robes de Luxe, - - 8.00

$2.00 5.00

T h e leading French fashion A m erica. cents for journals or

designs for all pur poses ...........................

Send ten sample

c o p ie s .........................

T he

M o r s e - B r o u g h t o n
3

C o m p a n y
New York

Paris

EAST

19 T H

STR EET

L a B e l l e H e l& n e

M I L L E R S Autumn Sporting Hat Mcj

T he n ew est fashion in a Severe H a t for W alking, Driving, Golfing.
Plain or Trimmed, from $7.00 upward.

SM ART

CO RSET

is an ab solu te essen tial tor th e w om an w h o w ould be m o d ishly dressed , bu t alter securing a corset th at l i rea lly sm art it is no less n ecessary to k n o w h ow ta set and fasten th e o u ter garm ents upon it. A w om an w h o does not k n o w h ow p ro perly to adjust h er clo th in g w ill never ap p ea r rea lly c h ic , no m atter w h o m a y be h er corsetiere. T h e above figure represents a corset w h ich has b een d esigned w ith a due regard to th e req uirem en ts o f fash io n , bu t at the sam e tim e allow s freedom and com fort to th e b o d y , and its w e arer w ill b e e n tir e ly free from an y sen se o f pressure and co n fin e m en t.

Laces.
C lu ny and G old M edal Laces

Novelties in Fancy Tuckings, Hemstitchings, and Revers on Mousseline and Taffetas.

Irish and Renaissance Lace Collars.

L a c e S carfs, V eils
Pom padour Ruchings.

E. M I L L E R
46 W e s t 34th Street, N . Y .
NOTE. Out-of-town patrons are requested to remit by cheque or mail order, upon receipt of which hats will be sent, securely packed, express charge* collectable upon delivery.

M R S. M . H. W R I G H T ,
CU STO M CO R SETS, 22 W est 22d Street, - N ew Y o rk .
T h e A rt o f P ro p e r D ressing T a u g h t .

ScHoacHvaij/ dS K)t6^Stxe&t,

Th e above article w as printed in th e E v e n in g W orld of March 30th, 1900, and the cu t used sh o w s M m e. Gard n ers French H ygienic C orset, as advertised in Vogue. T H E L A T E S T FR ENCH HYGIENIC C O R S E T

S U N D A Y . F E B R U A R Y 11.
A V O ID IN G ITS E V IL S .

New York.

A p r il IX, 1900

M illil
m m &Etm
lr!^ iS S s.v srrsa

flTm e#

Gardner, 52 Vest 21st S tre e t, City

Dear Madam: W e take pleasure in c a llin g your atten tion to the attached complimentary mention

S rr !S:k S: rir
I

r e la t iv e to your c orsets, which appeared in The Tribune o f February XI, 1900* Very re s p e c tfu lly ,

Adv. Mgr*

MME. G A R D N E R Corsets made to order

52 W est 21st Street

All the newest models. Corsets for reducing corpulence and lengthening the waist. Perfect fit guaranteed.

(C ontinued from page iii>

chine, blousing a little over the crossing; wide draped girdle o f the same, which fastens with a large shield-shaped buckle in Russian enamel, in petunia shades, with green and gold. T h e bolero is o f an openwork jet over cream taffeta veiled with mousseline. In the larger spaces glimpses of gold cloth are seen and a band of the jet net work borders it. T h e sleeves are o f velvet with a pointed jet-cap on shoulder and finished in points below elbow with netwoik bands. Bishop s puff o f cream chiffon drawn into jetted wrist-band ; high collar o f network with rows o f black velvet ribbon fastening at back with small stiff bows.
MIDDLE PACK

J\ 9te Answers to Lorretpondentt omttted this -week, -will appear in Pogue o f 2 7 Sepu m b e r,

YOUMANS
CELEBRATED HATS
ROUND HATS AND BONNETS
CORRECT STYLES H ATS IN AUTUM N

B e g i n n in g a t t h e L e f t . Tailor gown o f gun metal broadcloth. T h e skirt is opened at the side over a panel o f black velvet, strapped across at intervals, and fastened with rather large gun metal buttons. T h e smart little coat is piped on all the edges with white cloth, and has, besides, a narrow band o f black velvet, edged with gold braid. T h e large collar and bell cu ff are o f white panne velvet, stitched with white. T h e under sleeve is o f black vel vet gathered into a long pointed cuff, which is wrinkled about the wrist. T h e chemisette is o f panne velvet in a Persian design in blue, gold and white. S e c o n d F ig u r e . Gown o f cafe au lait crepe de chine. T h e skirt is cut in panels with small gores o f Renaissance inset. About the knees the skirt is strapped with three bands o f deep golden-brown velvet ribbon, ornamented with small cream-colored straw buttons. T h e bodice is draped over a small waistcoat o f the lace over doth-of-gold. T h e collar has three rows o f the velvet ribbon ending in front under the straw buttons, which continue down the front, forming a trimming. T h e sleeves are o f the lace with a small cap o f the crepe de chine at top finished with the velvet ribbon. T h e Finished in the new R I K K I - T I K K I - T back is slightly draped, and is fastened under a style. Trimmed or untrimmed from double row o f the buttons. T h e bottom is $6.50 to $10.00 bound with brown velvet ribbon, caught with a gold clasp and ribbon ends. T h ir d F ig u r e . Panne velvet gown in a On and after September 23d there Persian design o f blue and pink, the blue pre will be displayed the latest imported dominating. T h e skirt is laid in v e ry shallow double-box plaits all the way around. T h e FASHIONS IN M ILLIN ERY .smart little bolero is bound with deep rose taffeta stitched. T h e collar and vest are o f in that department. Second floor. white shirred chiffon. T h e lower part o f sleeves are also o f the chiffon. T h e bolero is & SO N strapped across the vest and tied at the side E . A . M O R R I S O N with a bow o f the rose taffeta. 893 Broadway F o u r t h F ig u r e . Bridal gown o f white satin Watteau plait starts from under th e lace yoke in back, and is slightly draped at the waist line, falling from there in soft folds to the bottom. APPLICATIONS DE JEUNESSE T h e bodice has a deep yoke o f point lace, and a AND BANDELETTES DU DR. DYS high girdle o f the same, a small space o f P repared b y V . D arsy plaited satin showing between. T h e front o f 54 F au b ou rg St. H o n o r* , P aris skirt is trimmed with a succession o f point lace 1 19 East z6th S tre e t, N ew Y o tk M adam e V . D a rs y w ill g iv e e x p ert fac ial flounces; the upper flounce continues down the treatm ent w ith D r . D y s s co m p lex io n sp ecialties sides and entirely around the bottom o f traine. a t the follo w in g rate* p er ap p lica tio n : Long veil o f tulle caught with orange blossoms. Trtatmtnt with Bandthtttt at client' 1 r tiiF ir T H F ig u r e . Opera cloak o f delicate dtnct Sf-OO. sit M m i. D ir ty 't htutt, f J O O . Trtatmtnt with Application dt Jtunust at green panne velvet, spotted with a darker (lltnts rtiidtnrt $10.00. A t M m t. D a n j't shade o f green to correspond with the plain htutt, $6.00. velvet yoke and sleeve tops. A silver spangle T h e results o f these treatm ents are rea lly marvelous and t h ii s yite m o f fa c ia l reju venation is fastened in the centre o f each polka-dot. is p o iitiv e ly follow e d b y no reaction . T h e trimming is o f heavy cream applique MM E. V . D A R S Y lace. 1x9 East z 6 th S tre e t, N e w Y o r k S i x t h F ig u r e . Empire evening gown o f pale blue chiffon over blue silk. T h e flounce is o f a chiffon o f a deeper shade o f blue, and is spangled with blue and silver. T h e bolero and trimming are o f spangled passementerie. A large bow o f white tulle is caught at the bust with diamond buckle. of F all and W in t e r business. S e v e n t h F ig u r e . Very smart driving or traveling coat o f tan-colored cravenette cloth. T h e back is extremely loose, and is buttoned provides a door to y o u r e sta b from the side back seam to the bottom. T h e front is double-breasted. T h e lining is o f red lish m ent accessible to the and white plaid taffeta. T E N S O F T H O U S A N D S of E ig h t h F ig u r e . Gown o f tabac-brown possible custom ers in N e w velvet. T h e skirt is cut in six gore*, which Y ork w h o areT e lep h o n e U sers flare very much at the bottom. T h e back it laid in two small box-plaits at the waist line. Rates for Telephone Service in T h e waist is tight-fitting; very long sleeve, Manhattan from $5 00 a Month. wrinkled from the elbow to the wrist. T h e OneYear C o n tracts. H o n thly P aym en ts bodice is draped with a scarf o f tan satin, spot ted with tabac-brown and finished with fringe. Hat o f cream-colored folded chiffon, trimmed with a large bow o f tabac-brown 15 Dey S tre e t. I i W est 38th Street. velvet and a gold button.

F O R A L L O C C A S IO N S

Now on Exhibition

W rite for Booklet o f Styles Authorized A gents in Principal Cities

M O R R I S O N S

SPO RTIN G A N D OU TIN G H AT

1107 and 1109 Broadw ay

Madison Square West

158 Broadw ay
Near Liberty Street

105, 107, 109 Oxford Street, W .

440 M I L E S I N 495 M I N U T E S
every business day in the year between New Y ork and Buffalo, on the New Y o rk Central's

Get Your Share

The Telephone Service

E m p ir e
F
a stest

St a t e
T

E x p r e s s ,
W
o rld.

r a i n in t h e

It has imitators on both sides o f the Atlantic, but no equal anywhere.

F o r a co p y o f th e L u x u ry o f M od e ra R a i w a y T r a v e l ," ten d a p ostage stam p t o G e o r g e H . D arn els, G e n e ra l P a s se n g e r A g e n t , G ra n d C e n tra l S ta tio n , N ew Y o r k .

NEW YORK TELEPHONE CO .

p O L L O W I N G their announced plan, M essrs. L . D . Brown & Son Co. pre sent herewith a seasonable fashion for which their Silks are particularly suitable.

B R O W N S HIGH
TH E LATEST FALL N O VELTY

GRADE

BLACK

SILK

The following Parisian model is made from

Browns New Diagonal Serge Silk

This model is a Princess gown with graduated plaits be ginning below the hip line, and extending to the bottom, allowing a flare six inches. The stock collar is cut with a high turret in back, bound with black velvet and stitched five times. The apron fron t is cut to fit the figure , the turrets are bound with black velvet, stitched five times and buttoned to the un der dress with black velvet buttons. The over sleeve is cut with turrets, bound with velvet, stitched and buttoned close around the tight-fitting under sleeve. The popularity o f this new fabric is assured. It combines the durability o f a wool serge with the elegance o f a silk gown. This silk is manufactured O N L Y by

TH E L. D. BROWN & SON CO.

Silk Manufacturers, 598 Broadway, New Y o rk