YSR 12-10

Everywear Tails Design by lila_

PIECES 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Print Check Front Left Front Side Left Back Side Back Under Collar Upper Collar Collar Band Front Right Bias Facing Front Right Interlining Front Side Right Interlining Front Facing Front Side Lining Back Side Lining Back Lining 1x 1x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 1x 1x 1x 1x 2x 2x 2x 2x Fabric Fabric Fabric Fabric Fabric Fabric Fabric Fabric Fabric Lining Lining Fabric Lining Lining Lining

What you need: Fabric (non stretchable) Lining Interfacing (a smooth one) Bias Strip Fusible Interfacing Snaps (3x)

35" / 90cm Interfacing Sizes 34-44

55" / 140cm

Fabric

Sizes 34-44

55" / 140cm Lining Sizes 34-44

Centimeters SIZE FABRIC 140 cm LINING 140 cm INT ERFACING 90 cm

34 36 38 40 Meter 2 1.4 1.45

42 2 1.4 1.45

44

Inches SIZE FABRIC 55.1 " LINING 55.1 " INTERFACING 35.4 "

8 2 1/5 1 1/2 1 3/5

10 12 Yards

14 2 1/5 1 1/2 1 3/5

16

Please read these instructions carefully before you start working. It's always a good idea to sew a test garment first and try it on before starting the actual Important:whenprintingyourpattern,makesurethatyouhavethefunctionFitto pageswitchedoffinyourPDFreadersoftware.Alwaysprintat100%.Afterprinting, checkthe5by5testsquareoneachpatternwithatapemeasuretomakesurethat thedimensionsarecorrect.

YSR 12-10 Seamallowancesareincludedasindicatedonthepattern: Dividingseamsinfrontandback=1cm(3/8") Sideseamsandcenterbackseam=1,5cm(5/8") Hem=4cm(11/2") Allotherseams:1cm(3/8") INTERFACING Pieces 1, 2, 5, 6, 7,10 arecompletelycoveredwithInterfacing. InPieces 3, 4, 12, 13, 14, 15dottedlinesmarktheInterfacingpatternpieces.Trace Interfacingpatternsbyfollowingthesedottedlines. Fuseinterfacingtowrongsideoffabricasindicatedonthepattern,following manufacturer'sinstructions. Tostabilizeneckholeandarmholeedges,addstripsofinterfacingalongtheseedges. Useabiasstrip(notastableone!)oflightweightfusibleinterfacingabout1/3inch wide.Donotstretchedgeswhilefusing DIVIDING SEAMS IN FRONT AND BACK Pieces 1 + 10: Staystitchinseamallowancestoreinforcethecorner. Clipseamallowanceclosetocornerofthatstitchingline. Pin Front Left (1) and Front Side Left (2)withrightsidestogethermatchingnotches. Stitchpreciceslyuptothecorner(stitchwiththestay-stitchedpieceuppermost,asthis willmakesewingeasier).Keeptheneedledownatthecorner,liftthepresserfoot, pivotthepiecesandstitchtherestofthelinefromthecornertotheedge.Pressseam StitchFront Right Interlining (10)andFront Side Right Interlining (11)togetherin thesameway. WithrightsidestogetherpinBack (4)andBack Side (3)bymatchingnotches.Stitch andpressopen. WithrightsidestogetherpinBack (4)piecesatcenterbackendingatnotchforthe slit.Stitchandpressseamopen. RIGHT FRONT DRAPING Front Right (8):Pinpleatsatfrontedgeasindicatedinthepattern,payingattentionto orderandorientationofpleats! PinpleatedpiecetoFrontRightInterlining(10)bymatchingedges.Drapepleated pieceonFrontInterlining,smootheningthefabricoverinterliningtoachieveanicefall ofthefolds.Dependingonyourfabricyoumighthavetoadjustthefolds.If,for example,youhaveaverysoftfabricthatstretchesalotdiagonally,youmightneed reducethetipsofthefoldsalittlebit.

Ithelpsalottohaveadressformtodrapethefoldson.Onceyourdrapinglooks good,bastepleatedpiecetoInterliningattheedgesandcontinuetoworkwithitlikea singlelayeroffabric.

COLLAR PinoneCollar Band (7)toeach Under Collar (5)andUpper Collar (6),matching notches.Stitch,endingatseamallowance(seearrow),donotstitchallthewayupto Pressseamsopen,clipseamallowanceswherenecessary. Pineachupperandundercollartogetheratcenterbackwithrightsidestogether. Stitchandpressseamopen. Turninseamallowancesofremainingcollarbandsection.Press. PinUpperCollartoUnderCollaratouteredgewithrightsidestogether,stitch. Trimedgesofoutercollaredgeandcutcornerdiagonally,clipwherenecessary Turncollartorightsideandpressedge. FITTING Pinsideseamswithrightsidestogether,matchingnotches,baste. Pinbackcollarwithrightsidestogethertofrontneckholes,matchingnotches,baste. Trywaistcoaton. Checkdrapingandadjustpleatsifnecessary. Aftertryingon,takebastedcollaroffagain. SIDESEAM AND HEM Pinsideseamswithrightsidestogether,matchingnotches.Stitchandpressseam Presshemup,easinginfullnessifnecessary.Pressonlyuptotheseamcornersin FACING AND LINING Withrightsidestogetherpin Front Facing (12)and Front Side Lining (13)by matchingnotches.Stitchandpresstowardside. Back Lining (15): Staystitchinseamallowancestoreinforcethecorneratslitin centerback. Laterseamallowancewillbeclippedclosetothatstitchingline. WithrightsidestogetherpinBack Lining (15) andBack Side Lining (14)by matchingnotches.Stitchandpressopen. WithrightsidestogetherpinBack Linings (15)atcenterbackendingatnotchforthe slit.Stitchandpressseamandslitopen Withrightsidestogetherpinsideseamsbymatchingnotches.Stitchandpressopen. NECKHOLE, COLLAR, FRONT EDGE AND HEM PinCollarandFront Piecesrightsidestogetherattheneckline,bastematching PlaceFront Facings and Liningpreciselyonwaistcoat,withrightsidestogether. PinFrontNeckhole,frontedgeandseamwithrightsidestogether,insertingthecollar intheprocess.Stitch,stoppingexactlyattheCollarStand(seearrowinpattern).

Clipseamallowancesatfrontneckholeandfrontfacingdiagonallyuptothecollar

Trimfrontneckholeuptocollarandfrontedgeandturnpiecetorightside. Pressfrontedgeandfrontneckhole. Makeablindstitchhem. FRONT ARMHOLE AND BACK NECKHOLE WithwrongsidestogetherpinWaistcoatandLiningatfrontarmholeandcontinuingat backneckhole,baste. WithwrongsidestogetherfoldBias facing (9)alongrollline.Pinrawedgestogether andpresslightly. Pinfacingtoupperbackandfrontarmholeedges,stitchandtrim. Turnfacingtoinside,press.Stitchclosetoouteredge. FINISH COLLAR WithrightsidestogetherpinCollar BandofUnder Collartoremainingneckholeof frontandfrontfacing.Stitchpreciselyfromclippedseamallowance(arrowinpattern) uptofrontarmhole.

Pressseamtowardcollarband. Pinremainingpressededgeofcollarbandoverseam Edgestitchcollarbandasshownonthephoto.

FINISH PressLining:Atthehem,pressafoldintheliningthatiscreatedbytheadditional lengthoffabric. Turninseamallowanceonslitedgesoflining1,5cm(5/8")andpress.Clipseam allowancetowardsedge.Alsoturninupperseamallowance1,5cm(5/8")andpress. Pinpressededgestoslitfacings,slipstitch. CLOSURE Fastenthewaistcoatwithsnapsbecauseofthemultiplelayersoffabricatrightfront Usemarkingsinfrontpatternsasguideforsnaps. Sewtheballontheundersideoftheoverlap.Sewthesocketontheuppersideofleft Stitchthroughalllayers. Makedecorativehandstitchestofastenthesnaporcoverthestitcheswithdecorative fakebuttonsontheoverlap. Makeonebuttonholeinleftfrontasindicatedinthepattern. Pinthewaistcoatclosedandmarkthepositionforunderbuttonatrightfront.Sewaflat buttonontheundersideofrightfront. BOW Cutouttwostripsoffabrictothefollowingmeasurements Bow-8"x3.5",Knot-3"x3" Foldthebowstripinhalflengthways,stitchrightsidesoflongedgestogetherwitha 0.5"seamallowance.Trimseams,turnrightsideout.Positiontheseamtothecentre oftheundersideandpress. Foldintheedgestothecentreofthebow.overlap0.5". Handbasteafewlongstitchesalongthiscentrelinethroughallthicknesses,leaving somethreadlooseeitherend,thenpullthethreadtogatherthefabrictogetherabit, andstitchagainbutthistimeabittightertoholdthegathersinplace. Foldtheknotstripinhalf,stitchrightsidesoflongedgestogetherwitha0.5"seam allowance.

Trimseamsandturnrightsideout.Positiontheseamtothecenteroftheunderside andpress,thenarrangetheknotaroundthegatheredmiddleofthebowandstitchin place,catchinginsomeofthebowfabric. Handstitchthebowtocenterbackofthewaistcoatasshowninthephoto.

Didyoufindanymistakesintheseinstructionsordoyouhavesuggestionsfor improvements?Pleaseletusknow! Thisisafreepatternfromyourstylerocks.com.Visitusformore!