Thanks for requesting this FREE Chapter from:

Were happy you took this opportunity to see for yourself just how comprehensive, informative and valuable Chester Greenhalghs legendary eBook is. No matter what kind of hot rod youre building, buying or planning to build, youre certain to be inspired, save time and, best of all, save lots of money following Chesters many tried and proven techniques. We look forward to immediately fulfilling your eBook order after youve reviewed this great free chapter. Just click here to return to the order page at TBucketPlans.com, and click the Download Now button at the bottom of the page to purchase your copy for only $18.95. Dont forget to check out Chesters two other eBooks, because youll get nice discounts when you purchase two or more at one time. Within minutes, youll be enjoying 258 pages of the best, most entertaining and helpful hot rod building information available. Thanks again!

How to Build a T-Bucket Hot Rod Roadster for Under $3,000 zs'" Anniversary, Revised Edition
By Chester Greenhalgh Copyright, Legal Notice and Disclaimer:
All contents Copyright 2011 and 1986 by Chester Greenhalgh. All rights reserved worldwide. No part of this document or the related files may be reproduced or transmitted in any form, by any means (electronic, photocopying, scanning, recording, or otherwise) without the prior written permission of the publisher. This publication is protected under the US Copyright Act of 1976 and all other applicable international, federal, state and local laws, and all rights are reserved, including resale rights: you are not allowed to give or sell either a print or digital copy of this Guide to anyone else. Remember, that I have your name and address. If you received this publication from anyone other than TBucketPlans.com, you've received an illegal, pirated copy. Please contact us via e-mail at counterfeit@tbucketplans.com and notify us of the situation. We will protect your identity and see that you are taken care of. Please note that much of this book is based on personal experience and anecdotal evidence. Although the author and publisher have made every reasonable attempt to achieve complete accuracy of the content in this book, they assume no responsibility for errors or omissions. Also, you should use this information as you see fit, and at your own risk. Your particular situation may not be exactly suited to the examples illustrated here; in fact, it's likely that they won't be the same, and you should adjust your use of the information and recommendations accordingly. Any trademarks, service marks, product names or named features are assumed to be the property of their respective owners, and are used only for reference. There is no implied endorsement if we use one of these terms. Finally, use your head. Nothing in this book is intended to replace common sense, legal, medical or other professional advice, and is meant to inform and entertain the reader. So have fun with this zs" Anniversary, Revised Edition of "How to Build a T-Bucket Hot Rod Roadster for Under $3000", and get your stuff done. Copyright 2011 and 1986 Chester Greenhalgh. All rights reserved worldwide.

Published by

Remember, that I have your name and address.

Yes, you can build this beautiful TBucket roadster for under $30001 I built 12 roadsters from the pages of this book, so I know it works. The fiberglass bodies and structural steel are available worldwide, as are millions of 1970s era donor cars.

By Chester Greenhalgh

Copyright 1986,2011

by Chester Greenhalgh

----------

----------

Table of Contents Roots Introduction Preface Credits Frame Body Pickup box Bodywork Painting Springs Front axle Rear axle Steering column Firewall Engine and Transmission The Brake System Radiator, mounts, shell and radiator cap Battery box Driveshaft Fuel system Lights Dash Electrical system Gas pedal Shift unit Upholstery Windshield Title and license Suppliers Adios! Page 3 4 5 7 8 36 51 60 65 71 76 95 109 113 115 127 151 168 171 174 178 182 192 213 216 227 221 239 240 241

Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

----------

----~-----

- Radiator, mounts, shell and radiator cap This book deals with all the little odds and ends you will run into while building a roadster. We will also discuss the most economical solution to many minor problems that are totally ignored by most articles on rod-building. hear from me. Besides astronomical your magazine advertisements "Buy it from so and so" is a typical cop-out you won't myself, unless I can buy it cheaper. (This is where come in handy) Since I'm not trying to steer prices, most of these items you could make yourself if you

just knew how. I prefer to make everything and internet

business in anyone's direction, I'll show you the cheapest methods I know of.

- Radiator mounts We'll start out with the radiator mounts. The mounts are very simple to make. They're just two 3" pieces of 1" angle iron, held to the frame with two 5j16" bolts each.

- Cut the mounts and grind the corners round. Measure in and drill 5/16" holes -

Y2

You can clamp them together and drill all four holes with two shots. The wide-spaced holes attach to the frame.

- Measure

from

the

front of the frame 6" and trace a line down with aT-square Start the hole with the 5j16" drill while a friend holds it in place. If the frame isn't painted yet, you can just clamp it. We are going to tap this with a 5j16" X #18 tap. Whenever you want to tap a hole, drill it out with a bit two sizes down from the bolt size intended. Normally, this will be the correct size for the tap. The reason for starting the hole with a 5j16" drill is to center the tapped hole in the frame under the 5j16" hole in the mount. Just push hard enough to for the radiator slant so the radiator break the surface, and then finish drilling with the smaller bit. I've found that redrilling the mount with a 3j8" bit allows a considerable adjustment by just standing back and eyeballing. angle can be at its most attractive position in relation to the body. This can be best determined

- Position the mount down %" from the top surface of the frame-

- Radiator shell We're going to mount a Dodge Aspen radiator under the radiator shell, but the more

expensive Walker radiator will bolt right onto these mounts if you decide to use one now or sometime in the future. I've used the little Dodge upright before on basically stock small blocks, and they've always run cool (except in parades). If you've got a radical engine you may want the bigger Walker. The little Dodge unit can be picked up for about $50 used to $100 new, compared to $300+ for a Walker. Don't worry about the space between the radiator and the shell; I've got that covered in this chapter too. First, we need to decide what kind of radiator shell we want. The normal choice is the Tshell. Racing Unlimited sells this cheapest in fiberglass form. They are all basically the same, regardless of the supplier. They all have to be cleaned and bondoed to look decent. Following is a trick to making the shell fit real snug to a Walker radiator. First, cover the radiator with waxed paper at the top, so the fiberglass won't stick to it. Try the shell to make sure it fits over the dummy filler neck. Cut two strips of sheet metal for tabs, about %/1 X 2/1. Mark the shell where the Walker radiator upper tabs are. Don't drill the holes yet. Mark the tabs where they must sit between the shell and the radiator tab. Now you have to fiberglass the tabs to the inside of the shell and let them dry. When the mat has set up hard, put the shell back on the radiator and drill the tab holes, using the ones in the radiator tabs for a guide.

Next, mix up a gob of banda or Tiger Hair (chopped fiberglass in a can like banda) and set it on the inside of the shell right below the filler neck hole. Leave it in a big ball just a little bigger than a golf ball, and set the shell in place over the radiator.

- Clamp it down and let it set-

Now clamp it down. Be sure you have bolts in the tabs you made on the shell. This action causes the banda to spread out to fit the radiator tank, and the wax paper keeps it from sticking. When it's set, just remove the shell, peel off the wax paper and reinstall the shell. I've bound another and cheaper source shell. for an attractive it radiator more So far has been

popular than the tried and true Tshell, with everyone I've shown it to, partly because it will house a larger radiator. I've noticed at the flea markets the abundance of banged-up Model A shells that have been turning cheap. with new reproductions. I bought a 1929 A shell that
I

up

They

have

been

replaced

had been brazed and bond oed and painted many times over. I took my $5 purchase home and chopped 5/1 out of it, cut and spread the bottom to meet the sides and filled the gap with sheet metal. A little banda and paint and the shortened A shell looks right at home on the TBucket.

- A 1929 Model A shell reworked,

bondoed and painted. Not bad for a few

bucks, right? -

Since everyone seems to like it, I'll go into the details on making and mounting it. The aftermarket T shell will mount directly to your radiator mounts. The Model A shell will be trimmed to fit inside the frame rails and also set on top of them. Trim off the back part of the shell that held the hood padding with your 4 W' Die grinder. Cut the shell in half so that the top piece is 18/1 high. Now cut the bottom right through the crank hole, and cut 5/1 off the sides of the bottom half. Weld the ends to the bottom part of the shell. It will leave a gap in the middle which can be filled with a piece of sheet metal cut to fit.

Weld

Cut alons this line a.nd dis:ard th:is strip

"_ __ .J..I

Cut

shell in half

~L

The mounts for the A shell are made of body sheet metal and are sandwiched between the mount and the frame rail. Make two of these out of sheet metal.

- Clamp them both between the radiator mounts and run the drill back through the holes -

- Model A radiator shell mount template Bolt the mounts to the frame with the shell mount sandwiched frame, with between the the
,

1%
FRONT ~-----------_

__j

angle iron mounts and the arrow pointing forward. the mounts the frame. shell back Now fold

--------------------------------------------Model A radi'ator shell mount

down flat on Next, set the in place and

,
-(f)11---t--_

mark on the inside where it rests on the sheet metal. Remove the shell and clamp a piece of angle iron

-@3N'
----L'. IJI

on the line to act as a sheet metal brake to bend against. Bend each mount straight up. The shell can now be lowered over them with the sheet metal mounts unseen on the inside. Drill two 1/8/1 holes on each side and pop rivet the shell and the mount together. To remove the shell, unbolt the radiator mounts from the frame.

- Inside view of radiator shell mounting -

- As you can see there is plenty of room to add water to this Mopar radiator -

- Radiator Grille A very attractive grille-filler can be made from an inexpensive overhead light grating. They

can be bought for a few dollars from building supply stores and are made of white plastic. Another nice filler can be made from the guard off of one of the box floor fans, if you have a junk one. The first step is to paint the grating flat black.

- Grating painted in flat black. Note the ladder used to prop it up for spraying It will sandwich between the grille shell and the not-soperfect-a-fit radiator. If you are

using a Walker radiator you don't need to make this. The Walker is a perfect fit for a T shell. If you are using, say, a Dodge Aspen radiator however, this grille will conceal any gaps you may have as well as protect your radiator from rocks and debris. The grille will be silicone-cemented to the radiator shell, so both must be painted first. I use an

old ladder for painting these. Be sure to paint the egg-crate grille from all four sides so you don't have any patches of white showing. One light grating will make two grilles. It's nice to have an extra in case you catch a rock.

- Lay the shell upside down on the grating and trace the outline of the opening onto the grating-

Lay the radiator shell upside down on the grating (which is also upside down) and trace the opening onto the grating. The plastic is quite brittle and easiest cut with side cutters, one piece at a time, like cutting chicken wire. Cut an inch outside the tracing. Use a whole tube of clear silicone in a caulking gun to cement the grille in place. Position the grille where you want it in the upside down shell and press the silicone in, around, up and over wherever you can, without any showing from the front. overnight. Let the shell set until the silicone is completely dry, preferably

Even without the radiator you can see what the finished roadster will look like.

- Radiator Cap To make an authentic-looking radiator cap out of a junk antique mota-meter, cut a 3
)12"

section of a chrome 2/1 exhaust extension. Split the pipe down 1 %/1 on each side. Then cut a T on each side and bend the tabs horizontal before flattening and drilling holes.

TRIH

o o o

Drill

3/8"
holes

THIN

Now drill three holes (3/8/1)

in these tabs for penetration

of the fiberglass, and insert it in the

shell hole from the bottom. The installation of thin black welt (available from upholstery shops) will add class. I install it at this time around the radiator cap hole in the painted shell and glue it in place with weatherstrip adhesive. Now mix up a blob of Tiger hair, or similar mixture of chopped strand fiberglass, about the size of a golf ball, and smear it over the ends of these tabs and into the holes. Set the shell carefully by itself until the fiberglass sets up. The inside of the shell can now be painted with black undercoating. A 'T' ornament slips

inside, and an 'A' ornament fits outside. I secure the cap with two pop rivets to prevent theft. This is the most easily stolen item on a roadster, and the one stolen most often. The antique car flea markets are always full of motor meters with broken or missing glass and thermometers for reasonable prices. I've found that the little Ford adhesive disks replace the glass on both sides perfectly. I think they are intended for mag wheel centers.

- Pipe trimmed and ready for installation -

- This pipe isn't going anywhere! -

- An 'A' style radiator cap -

- A 'T' style radiator cap -

- RadiatorSurprisingly enough, there are a considerable number of modern radiators that will fit under the 'T' or 'A' shell. A good radiator can be bought from a junk yard for a good price if you know what to look for. One nice thing about setting up your roadster to accept on of these radiators is the low replacement cost of future repairs, and the fact that it will have a rock guard, whereas the Walker would not. The ideal radiator (Walker) can be bought for $300+. It is made to fit perfectly under a 'T' shell, but that's a lot of green for a poor boy. I suggest you get it running and drive it for awhile before you buy that ideal radiator. Then the additional money won't seem so much. You might even want a brass unit. When shopping for a radiator, take along a tape measure and your shell to make sure you get one that will fit. Two more important things to watch for are a built-in transmission cooler in the bottom and the lower outlet on the right-hand side (This is for a Chevy engine). The top outlet can be on either side because you want the chrome outlet for the engine that faces straight forward. Avoid foreign car radiators because they don't have the water capacity you need. AMC and Jeep and several others make radiators that will fit under your shell, but the lower outlet is on the wrong side. I have listed the radiators preference and suitability. and their dimensions that you can use in the order of their

The most desirable units are listed first. Try to think of a junk car

some friend may have that fits the bill.

- Three different styles of radiators that can be used on a T-Bucket roadster-

I'd avoid the track nose in the center. I installed the heavy-duty radiator that was part of the nose package, and had cooling problems. I installed the best electric fan obtainable and still had cooling problems. A new water pump, and still had cooling problems. It was the customers' option and he wanted it left on. Good riddance!

- RADIATORS Core measurements Top Hose Bottom Hose Trans Cooler

18 3/8" X 18 Yz" X 1 X"

74-75 75-76 Dodge Dart 318 V8 Plymouth Valiant,

1 Yz" - L

1}fi" - R

12"

Duster, Scamp 318 V8

18 3/8" X 18 Yz" X 1 X"

80-82 78-80 80 -82 79-82 78-81 78-82 80-82 79-81 78 -80 77 Plymouth Plymouth Fury 6 Volare 6 6

1 Yz" - R

1 Yz" - R

12"

Chrysler Cordoba

Chrysler New Yorker, Chrysler LeBaron Dodge Diplomat Dodge Dodge Mirada Aspen 6 6 6 6

Newport

Dodge St Regis 6

Chrysler LeBaron 318

V8 1Yz" L 1 Yz" R

18 3/8" X 18 Yz" X 1 X"

76 - 78 77 - 78 76 - 78 69 - 71 69 - 71 Dodge Aspen 318 V8 Dodge Diplomat Plymouth Plymouth Volare Fury 6 Polara 6 318 V8 318 V8

10"

Dodge Monoco,

17 7/8" X 18 Yz" X 1 X"

70 - 72 70 - 73 70 - 73 70 - 73 71- 73 70 - 72 Dodge Monoco, Plymouth Fury 318 V8

1 Yz" L Polara 318 V8

1}fi" R

10"

Dodge Charger, Coronet, Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Barracuda Satellite, Belvedere

Challenger

318 V8 318 V8

318 V8 Sebring, Road Runner 318 V8 1 Yz" R Sebring, Roadrunner Satellite 6 6 6 1Yz" R

17 7/8" X 18 Yz" X 1 X"

70 - 72 71- 72 66 - 70 66 -73 Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Barracuda 6 Satellite, Belvedere,

10"

Dodge Charger, Coronet

Core measurements

Top hose 1 Yz" L

Bottom hose 1 %" R

Trans cooler 10"

17 3/8" X 18 Yz" X 1 W'

1970 - 73 Plymouth Valiant, Duster, Scamp 318 V8 1970 - 73 Dodge Dart 318 V8 . 17 3/8" X 18 Yz" X 1 X"

1 Yz" R

1 Yz" R

6"

1968 - 73 Dodge Dart 6 1971- 73 Plymouth Duster, Valiant 6 1968 - 69 Barracuda 6 1967 - 68 Plymouth Valiant 6 16 3/8" X 17 X" Xl X" 1975 - 77 Mercury Bobcat 163/8" 1 X" L 1 X" R

6"

X 17 X" Xl X"

1 X" L

1 %" R

6"

1965 Mercury Comet 289 V8 1965 - 66 Ford Mustang 289 V8 15 1/8" X 17 X" X 1 X" 1971 - 73 Ford Pinto 1 X" L 1 X" R

8"

The radiator we used in the project car is from a 1976 Dodge Aspen 318 V8 with a 10" cooler. It's a brand-new Modine unit (they still make them) that cost us only $90 delivered in 1986. I was able to use this larger radiator because of the Model A style shell. If you are using the 'T' style shell, you may have to use the Pinto or Bobcat radiator. If you like the 'T' shell, there is another avenue open to house a larger, but still inexpensive radiator. You can split the shell, and spread it to fit the radiator and then fill in the gap. I did that to house the mammoth Ford flathead radiator you see occasionally in the photo backgrounds. But ranch meanwhile, . back at the

- Lay your radiator shell on top of the radiator with the top corners just clearing -

- These top corners should just clear into the shell -

Make sure the radiator

is setting square in the shell. I trust

my eye more than a tape

measure for this job. The shell I used here is a fiberglass copy of the first one I made. It proved to be so popular with my customers that I had to make a mold of the original so I could cast duplicates for them.

- Trace the outline of the shell onto the sides of the radiator sheet metal -

These lines must be copied in %" from the drawn line to allow for the taper of the Model A shell, but this is not necessary for the 'T' shell.

Cut out along this new line with a 4 ~" die grinder. Cut straight in at the top of the frame (bottom of the radiator) to the very edge of the radiator side. This is necessary to allow the radiator to set down in the frame. The radiator should fit squarely in the shell. Don't worry about the portion of the radiator that hangs down under the shell. It's virtually invisible when installed.

- The outline traced onto the radiator sheet metal with welders chalk. Note the %" second line that will be the actual cutting line -

With radiator

pliers, sides.

bend the curve

straight

where

the angle iron frame

mounts

will touch

the

- The trimmed radiator fits like this into the shell -

- With vise grips bend the sheet frame lower metal radiator straight

where the angle iron mounts touch the radiator sides Now cut two 10" pieces of 1 X" angle iron. With the radiator propped in the car, place shown mark these in the for the uprights photo as and

necessary

trimming. Mark the mounts where these uprights rest. Remove the left side and weld the upright to the mount. Drill X" holes where shown with sides. Drill out the rearmost hole in the lower mount with a
)12"

in the photo,

they will coincide of the radiator

the raised portion

bit to allow for radiator The radiator can now

angle adjustment. mount bolted solid.

be slid in from the right side with the left

Now you can make the right side mount just like you did the left mount. This mount can be slid in and the rearward bolt goes in easily. It takes a little patience to get the front bolt in, but there is plenty of clearance to do this. Now run a 9j64" drill through the X" holes into the sheet metal. Tighten the radiator effectively with bolts. down with sheet metal screws. The radiator is sandwiched between the shell and the upright and should be very solid. Now pull

the shell top into place and run a X" bit through the sides of the shell and upright and secure

- Mark the trimmed left side mount where the upright must rest- The finished mount -

-Position the upright on the mark on the mount and weld it. (This is the right side) -

Thanks for requesting this FREE Chapter from:

Were happy you took this opportunity to see for yourself just how comprehensive, informative and valuable Chester Greenhalghs legendary eBook is. No matter what kind of hot rod youre building, buying or planning to build, youre certain to be inspired, save time and, best of all, save lots of money following Chesters many tried and proven techniques. We look forward to immediately fulfilling your eBook order after youve reviewed this great free chapter. Just click here to return to the order page at TBucketPlans.com, and click the Download Now button at the bottom of the page to purchase your copy for only $18.95. Dont forget to check out Chesters two other eBooks, because youll get nice discounts when you purchase two or more at one time. Within minutes, youll be enjoying 258 pages of the best, most entertaining and helpful hot rod building information available. Thanks again!

Other eBooks by Chester Greenhalgh

To get further inspired by Chesters mechanical creativity on a budget, you will absolutely love his two other hot rod how-to eBooks. Plus, get nice discounts when you buy two or more at one time.

Chester Greenhalgh's newest rod building eBook is a full 107 informative pages of color photos and detailed info showing exactly "how to" build today's most economic fun ride -- a classic hot rod/rat rod truck on a budget! Click to check it out at: www.HotRodTruckPlans.com

Chester Greenhalgh's third eBook will make you an overnight small engine expert and show you how to apply "hot rod" creativity to cool new lawn mower engine projects for not only your lawn mower but also for boating, air compressors, minibikes and choppers and more. Chester tells you all about the small Briggs & Stratton engines you can get running off the junk pile. Click to check it out at: www.PimpMyBriggs.com

This new digital edition of the California Custom Roadsters T-Bucket Chassis Plans features a new 6th Plan Set showing how to build a rear coil-over shock suspension and also includes the CCR part numbers for most brackets and parts welded to the frame and axles. Now, choose to either fabricate the part or have CCR provide it. 62 pages of great T-Bucket info! Click to check it out at: www.TBucketPlans.com

Old time hot rodders fondly remember the pioneering Bird T-Bucket kits of the 1960s and now we've reproduced the original Bird T-Bucket Plans, along with a Bird Engineering history, copies of those cool old Bird ads and some Bird T-Bucket photos: all in a nostalgic 49-page eBook. You'll love it! Click to check it out at: www.TBucketPlans.com

54

The must have 4-hour DVD package for beginners and experienced builders alike that covers every detail for constructing your own hot rod chassis that will be economic, rugged, reliable and safe. Get years of Bob Hamiltons experience in an afternoon of enjoyable viewing. Click to check it out at www.StreetRodPlans.com

With Bonus: Fiberglass Top Modifications

This great 4-hour DVD set takes the mystery out of fiberglass work. Bob Hamilton shows you how easy it is for you to work with fiberglass. Learn how to lengthen a body, fill holes, make a mould, build a glass dash you name it you can do it. Click to check it out at www.StreetRodPlans.com

With Bonus: Metal Pickup Bed Construction

Bob Hamilton shows you how to get professional looking results at home and save tons of $$$ too with this cool 4 hour DVD package that also shows you how to prep your chassis for show car looks. Click to check it out at www.StreetRodPlans.com

55