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By Luv Puri
Tibetans arrived as refugees and remain refugees. The Tibetans feel at home
in Ladakh, because of their common Buddhist faith and trading linkages.
Even though many Tibetans were born in Ladakh, insurmountable
statelessness pinches this Tibetan community.
Neither we can get government job nor own land. I was born with this status
and wonder how many generations of my family will have to live with this
status.
For the last fifty years, Tibet has been governed by China. Tibetan refugees
in Ladakh, like most other Tibetans, have rallied behind their spiritual leader.
But the Dalai Lama does not demand complete secession from China. The
present political stalemate between the Chinese government and the Tibetan
leadership is over the territorial limits of the proposed Tibetan province,
under Chinese sovereignty.
For the Tibetan refuges, Ladakh was a natural settlement area due to its
culture, religion and landscape. Famous for its pristine beauty, Ladakh’s
landscape has stark similarities with Utah’s Salt Lake City. Tibetan
Buddhism influenced the culture of Ladakh and even vice-versa, as
Buddhism spread to other parts of Asia through Ladakh. The centuries-old
monasteries found in almost every village throughout Ladakh indicate this
influence.
Ladakhi cuisine shows the impact of the Tibetan community. This is true of
restaurants thronged by foreign tourists and even of traditional Ladakhi
homes. Gyal Wangchuk, a Ladakhi owner of the famous Siachen Hotel in
the middle of Leh, Ladakh’s capital, said, “The majority of homes in the
urban areas are no longer eating Ladakhi food, as now the new generation
loves the Tibetan food. The famous Tibetan Momos can be found in every
nook and corner of Ladakh.”
The times changed, as now the clandestine trade via eastern Ladakh became
difficult. Most of the Chinese goods reaching here come through legal
means, i.e. through the plains via Nepal. Profits have decreased. Uncertainty
over our status will continue to affect us professionally, psychologically and
physically.
(Luv Puri is a journalist who has reported on Tibetan issues, the Jammu and
Kashmir conflict, and Indian foreign policy for The Hindu newspaper).