Tanzania travel guide

PART ONE: INTRODUCING TANZANIA 1. About Tanzania + key facts 2. History, language + culture
~ religion, social conventions, language

3. Weather, climate + geography

~ best time to visit, required clothing, geography/borders

4. Doing business (economy), communications + money

~ office hours, economy: agriculture, telephones, media

PART TWO: PLANNING YOUR TRIP 5. Travelling to Tanzania

~ duty free restrictions, departure tax, transport methods + border crossings,

6. Airports in Tanzania: Dar Es Salaam Julius Nyerere Intl (DAR) + Kilimanjaro (JRO) + Zanzibar (ZNZ)
~ transfers, maps, public transport, terminal facilities, airport hotels,

7. Where to stay in Tanzania: hotels, B&B, lodges, etc

~ accom types and advice

8. Travel advice, visa + passport requirements

~ FCO travel advice, embassies + tourist office addresses, visa + passport requirements

9. Healthcare + vaccinations 10. Public holidays 2013 + events PART THREE: WHILE THERE (GENERAL) 11. Things to see + do in Tanzania (20 highlights)
~ Arusha National Park feature, 20 things to see/ do in Tanzania,

13. Shopping + nightlife in Tanzania

~ markets, souvenirs, shopping hours, nightlife,

14. Food and drink

~ Tanzania dishes + specialities, drinking customs (alcohol), regional drinks

15. Getting around eg. Hydrofoil between Dar + Zanzibar, or FastJet budget flights
~ budget airlines: fastjet/fly540, Precision Air, ZanAir, air notes, departure tax, driving, roads, car hire, taxis, bikes, buses,

PART FOUR: DAR ES SALAAM + BEYOND (DETAILED RESEARCH) 16. Dar Es Salaam
~ About, history, getting around Dar [REPEAT???] , 8 things to see/ do in Dar, Dar tours/excursions, Wildlife Conservation Society, shopping [REPEAT??]

17. Mwanza + Lake Victoria 18. Serengeti 19. Ngorongoro Crater 20. Arusha 21. Kilimanjaro 22. Zanzibar 23. Itineraries 24. Maps + useful links

PART ONE: INTRODUCING TANZANIA

1. About Tanzania Close your eyes and conjure up the quintessential image of Africa: the drama of the wildebeest migration along an infinite savannah; the incongruous snow of Mt Kilimanjaro; proud Masai warriors stalking the plains; exotic palm-fringed beaches on the spice islands of Zanzibar. Now look no further - it's all here in Tanzania. Throngs of wildlife roam free in sprawling national parks, fishermen still plough the turquoise waters off Tanzania's coast in dhows (traditional wooden sailboats), and pristine beaches lie in wait for the sun-worshipping crowd. Best of all, Tanzania has seen little of the strife that has afflicted other African nations, meaning that all its treasures are tantalisingly accessible. Tanzania boasts some of the most impressive National Parks and game reserves in all of Africa. The plains and savannahs of the Serengeti National Park are considered the premier spot on the continent to see wildlife roam unheeded across vast plains. Nearby, within the steep walls of the Ngorongoro Crater lies one of the most densely concentrated populations of African animals on earth. These include wildebeest, gazelle, zebra, lion, leopard, cheetah, elephant and even the elusive white rhino. Not to be forgotten, the Selous Game Reserve is larger than Switzerland, and is wild, remote and virtually untouched by any human presence save for a handful of safari camps in the north. Other parks like Ruaha will appeal to those who want to experience magnificent game watching well off the popular tourist trail of the northern circuit parks and reserves, while, for those with a penchant to get off the beaten track, the parks in the extreme west of the country, Gombe Stream and Mahale, offer the unique opportunity to track chimpanzees in their natural habitat. With its pearly-white beaches, Tanzania has 804km (503 miles) of sublime coastline and some magnificent islands offshore. Known as the Swahili Coast, it was a favoured stop on ancient trading routes between the Indian sub-continent and the Middle East. Spices, jewels and slaves once passed through, bringing with them a melange of cultural riches that remain today. The colourful language of Swahili (referred to as Kiswahili) was born here, and features words not only of African origin, but ones from as far away as Indonesia and China. The ruins of once sophisticated cities with their old mosques, Arabian-style houses and coral palaces still remain, while places like Stone Town on Zanzibar and Bagamoyo on the mainland are still today living testaments to the Swahili coastal tradition that has gone on for thousands of years. A mountain that needs no introduction is Mt Kilimanjaro, snow-capped and standing as Africa's tallest mountain at 5,895m (19,341ft). Open for climbing to those with energy and time on their hands, the week-long ascent and watching the sunrise over Uhuru Peak is one of Africa's most challenging achievements. Tanzania is home to over 120 different ethnic groups and takes pride in its multicultural heritage. The tall, red-robed Masai are the best known of Tanzania's people and are easily visited as part of a safari itinerary.

2. History, language + culture There are over 120 tribes on the mainland, most of which migrated from other parts of Africa over the millennia, whilst on the coast, the Swahili people originated from an eclectic mix of traders Arabic, Persian and Chinese among others who arrived from as early as the 8th century. The first European arrival was the Portuguese explorer, Vasco da Gama, who visited the coast in the late-15th century, after which most of the littoral region came under Portuguese control. The Portuguese also controlled Zanzibar until 1699, when they were ousted from the island by Omani Arabs. In the late-19th century, along with Rwanda and Burundi, Tanganyika was absorbed into the colony of German East Africa, and was a fairly quiet part of the German empire until the end of WWI. Then, following the German defeat, it was administered by the British under successive League of Nations and United Nations mandates. Tanganyika became independent within the Commonwealth in 1961, under charismatic leader, Julius Nyerere, who was President until 1985. In 1964, Tanganyika joined with Zanzibar and became Tanzania. Prior to that, Zanzibar had been a British protectorate and an independent sultanate. From Independence, Chama Cha Mapinduzi (CCM, Revolutionary Party of Tanzania), was the ruling party, as it still is today. Nyerere's initial main objective was the application of socialist principles (based on the Chinese communist model) to an African agricultural society and economy. The CCM nationalised industries and established an agricultural collective system known as Ujamaa, where people were grouped into self-sufficient villages. But mismanagement and external events conspired to wreck Nyerere's plans, with dire consequences for the economy and by 1977 Ujamaawas abandoned. Tanzania proved itself an active player in regional politics, by giving support to anti-Apartheid movements in South Africa, and it intervened militarily in Uganda in 1979, to overthrow the Amin regime. Tanzania was a founder member of the Southern African Development Co-ordination Conference and has been a prominent participant in the Organisation of African Unity. In 1985, Nyerere retired and was replaced as President by Ali Hassan Mwinyi, who introduced market forces into the economy and on the political front, amendments to the constitution allowing for the introduction of a multiparty system. Nevertheless, the CCM comfortably won the 1995 elections, when Benjamin Mkapa became President. In August 1998, Tanzania was the scene of a major terrorist incident when the US embassy in Dar es Salaam was bombed (a simultaneous explosion occurred in Nairobi). October 1999 was marked by the death of ex-president Julius Nyerere, whose funeral drew senior representatives from almost every government in the world. Mkapa won a further term of office at the end of 2000 but there were vote rigging and intimidation allegations, particularly on Zanzibar. Again in the 2005 election, Zanzibar experienced tension and some violence when the CCM candidate was declared the winner, but results were disputed with claims that the candidate of the Civic United Front (CUF) won the majority of votes. Some CUF members were calling for Zanzibars complete independence and these incidents served to underscore what many perceive as a drive for autonomy amongst some islanders. However, negotiations in 2009 were hailed as a breakthrough, and elections in 2010 were peaceful following the approval of a power-sharing agreement between the CCM and CUF. Since then, Zanzibar has been administered by a unity government under President Ali Mohamed Shein. Nationwide presidential elections were won by the CCM under President Jakaya Kikwete in 2005 and again in 2010. Kikwete previously spent 10 years as foreign minister. Tanzania culture - Religion: About 40-45% of Tanzanias population is Christian and about 35-40% are Muslim (most of which live along the coast and Zanzibar and the other islands). A small number follow traditional religions and there are some Asian communities including Sikhs and Hindus. Social conventions: 4

When meeting and parting, hands are always shaken; this applies throughout the country in both rural and urban areas. It is the convention to use the right hand, not the left, to shake hands or pass or receive anything. The standard greeting of 'hello' is jambo. People are delighted if visitors can greet them in Kiswahili. Dress is on the whole casual but a smart appearance for formal occasions such as a business meeting or upmarket restaurant is always appreciated. Because of its Muslim influence, the coast is a little more conservative, and away from the beach it is advised to dress respectably and cover up bare arms and legs. Alcohol is only available in the tourist areas on Zanzibar, where it is also considered highly impolite to eat, drink or smoke in public during daylight hours when people are fasting during Ramadan (the exception to this is in the tourist hotels and restaurants). Language in Tanzania Kiswahili and English are the official languages. The terms Swahili and Kiswahili are used interchangeably, though the term Swahili normally refers to the people while Kiswahili refers to the language. Originating along the coast, Kiswahili is a Bantu language with many words derived from Arabic. Other African languages such as Bantu and those of NiloHamitic and Khoisan origin are also spoken in more remote regions

3. Weather, climate + geography

Best time to visit: The climate is tropical and coastal areas are hot and humid, while the northwestern highlands are cool and temperate. There are two rainy seasons; the short rains are generally from October to December, while the long rains last from March to June. The central plateau tends to be dry and arid throughout the year. Tanzania can be visited year-round, although the best time for travelling is outside of the rainy season between June and October, when temperatures stay well below their summer peaks. Beach side locations like Zanzibar can be fine to visit during the hotter months of December to January, when ocean breezes make the high temperatures bearable (though humidity can still be high). However, this is also the time popular for typical beach holidays, especially for those travelling from Europe wanting some winter sunshine, and hotels can book up early especially for Christmas / New Year. Required clothing: Tropical clothing is worn throughout the year, but in the cooler season, from June to September, jackets and sweaters may be needed, especially in the evenings. Clothing appropriate to temperatures below zero is required on the higher slopes of Kilimanjaro and Meru. Also note that it can get very cold at night on the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater and early morning game drives may be chilly before the sun comes up.

Geography The United Republic of Tanzania lies on the east coast of Africa and is bordered by Kenya andUganda to the north; by Burundi, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo to the west; by the Indian Ocean to the east; and by Zambia, Malawi and Mozambique to the south. The Tanzanian mainland is divided into several clearly defined 5

regions: the coastal plains, which vary in width from 16 to 64km (10 to 39 miles) and have lush, tropical vegetation; the Masai Steppe in the north, 213 to 1,067m (698 to 3,500ft) above sea level, which gives rise to two prominent mountains, Kilimanjaro, 5,895m (19,341ft) above sea level and Africa's highest peak, and Mount Meru, 4,565m (14,973ft); and there's a high plateau known as the Southern Highlands in the southern area towards Zambia and Lake Malawi. Savannah and bush cover over half the country, and semi-desert accounts for the remaining land area, with the exception of the coastal plains. Over 53,000 sq km (20,463 sq miles) is inland water, mostly lakes formed in the Rift Valley and Tanzania's share of Lake Victoria and Lake Tanganyika, both on its western border. Lake Victoria covers 69,490 sq km (26,832 sq miles), which is Africa's largest lake and 49% of it lies in Tanzania. With maximum depths of 1,470m (4,821ft), Lake Tanganyika is estimated to be the deepest lake in Africa and is 673km (420 miles) long and averages 50km (31 miles) across; 41% of its area lies in Tanzania. The United Republic of Tanzania includes the islands of Zanzibar and Pemba, about 45km (28 miles) off the coast to the northeast of the country

4. Doing business, communications + money

Normal courtesies should be shown when visiting local businesspeople. English is the language used for business. Lightweight suits are usually expected to be worn for meetings. Appointments are generally necessary. Office hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1200 and 1400-1630; Sat 0800-1230. Economy: Tanzanias economy relies heavily on agriculture; the sector employs around 80% of the working population and cash crops are one of the country's main export earners, which accounts for nearly half of the countrys GDP. Mineral production (gold, diamonds and tanzanite) has grown significantly in the last decade, and mining represents Tanzania's biggest source of economic growth, provides over 3% of the GDP and accounts for half of Tanzania's exports. Coal, phosphates, gypsum, tin and other ores are also extracted. Reserves of uranium, nickel, silver and natural gas have been located and the mining sector is expected to be developed further to capitalise on these resources. The industrial sector is one of the smallest in Africa, concentrated in agricultural processing and light consumer goods such as sugar processing, brewing and textiles. Tourism is thought to be worth around US$950 million annually to the Tanzanian economy and ranks as the second foreign exchange earner after agriculture. On the whole, the economy has improved steadily since the mid-1990s. In 2006, Tanzania signed economic agreements with China for development assistance in the communications, transport and health sectors and saw the African Development Bank write off US$640 million of Tanzania's foreign debt. More recently, with continued help from donor assistance and a boost from an increase in gold exports, Tanzania's economy has picked up the pace. GDP was a healthy 6.5% in 2010, with inflation estimated to be around 7.2%. Many large hotels in Dar es Salaam and Arusha can accommodate conferences. The Arusha International Conference Centre (AICC) www.aicc.co.tz is the largest conference facility in the country with rooms that can cater for 20-1,000 people, and this has been the site of some historic events of East Africa's modern history including the Rwandan War Tribunals and Burundi peace negotiations. GDP: US$23.06 billion (estimate 2010). - Main exports: Gold, cotton, coffee, cashew nuts and sisal. - Main imports: Industrial raw materials, consumer goods, machinery and transport equipment, chemicals and crude oil. - Main trading partners: China, India, Japan, United Arab Emirates and Germany. Telephone: In most towns there is an efficient local and international service from public coin and card phone boxes operated by the Tanzania Telecommunications Company Ltd. (TTCL) (www.ttcl.co.tz). These are usually outside or within 6

the post office and in the cities there are separate TTCL offices for phone, fax and Internet. Connections are quick and about a third of the price of a call through hotels, which are expensive for phone calls and faxes. Mobile phone: Roaming agreements exist with most international mobile phone companies. Tanzanias many cellular networks cover almost all towns, the urban sections of the coast, Zanzibar and the tourist areas, but not some of the parks and reserves or the southwest of Tanzania away from the towns and the main road. SIM and top-up cards for the pay-as-you-go mobile providers are available just about everywhere; in the towns and cities they often have their own shops, but you can buy cards from roadside vendors anywhere, even in the smallest of settlements. Internet: Email can be accessed in internet cafs in main urban areas, which are affordable and efficient. Even smaller towns have at least one, usually on the main street. In the more remote towns, where a satellite connection is used, costs can be a little higher. Tourists can also access the internet in many hotels; the more upmarket and business orientated ones have in-room Wi-Fi. Accommodation in parks and reserves generally dont have internet. Post: There are post offices even in the smallest of towns (www.posta.co.tz). Airmail to Europe takes about 5-7 days and to the US about 10 days. EMS is a registered postal service available at all post offices. Courier services take three working days and the major international courier companies such as DHL (www.dhl.co.tz) are represented in the cities and Zanzibar. Post office hours: Generally Mon-Fri 0800-1630; Sat 0900-1200. Media: Until the 1990s, Tanzania's media was largely state controlled. Founding president Julius Nyerere believed TV would increase the divide between rich and poor and Tanzania is considered to have been one of the last countries in the world to broadcast TV which it did in 1994. Today, the number of Tanzanians with TVs has risen at a swift rate and most middle class urban Tanzanians own a television. Tanzanians are avid radio listeners with an estimated 60% of the population having access to radio. Tanzania enjoys a good level of freedom of press, though there is some bias depending on the ownership of the media. Press: Government-owned Daily News is Tanzania's oldest newspaper. There are also private English-language newspapers The Guardian and This Day as well as private weeklies Business Times, The Express and Arusha Times. Television: There are more than 15 private TV channels in Tanzania (in Dar es Salaam alone seven terrestrial channels are broadcast). One of the most popular is Capital run by the IPP media group (www.ippmedia.com) which broadcasts a mix of news (in Kiswahili and English), Swahili dramas, imported soaps and dramas from the USA, UK and South Africa, music videos and European football matches. DSTV (Digital Satellite Television; www.dstv.com), is a South African subscription satellite channel, which has countless international channels and is found in most upmarket hotels, (as well as many restaurants and bars for the sports and music channels). Radio: State-run stations include Radio Tanzania Dar es Salaam, Parapanda Radio Tanzania and Voice of TanzaniaZanzibar. There are also dozens of private FM radio stations, most of them operating in urban areas; among these networks are Radio Free Africa, Radio One, Radio Sky, Radio Star and Radio Uhuru. News bulletins from international radio stations, including the BBC, Voice of America and Germany's Deutsche Welle, are carried by many stations. Electricity: Tanzania: Electric plugs D & G 230V 50Hz. Travelling to Tanzania youll need both the electric travel adapter D and G. ~ Electric plug D (BS 546, 5 A/250 V earthed) is the Old British plug pre-1940s still used in former colonies ~ Plug G (aka. standard British 3-pin rectangular blade plug or 13-amp plug). Official name: BS 1363 (British 13 A/230-240 V 50 Hz earthed and fused). ~ electric power around the world (table)

Tanzania money Currency information: Tanzanian Shilling (TZS; symbol TSh). Notes are in denominations of TSh10,000, 5000, 2,000, 1,000 and 500. Coins are in denominations of TSh200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 but these are worth very little and are rarely used. In Kiswahili, it is shilingi and written prices are often denoted with the symbol /=; i.e. 100/= is the same as TSh100. Credit cards: Most top-end hotels, safari lodges, airlines and tour operators accept Visa and MasterCard (American Express and Diners Club less so), though a commission of 2-5% is usually charged. Budget hotels and most restaurants and shops do not accept credit cards, and they are rarely accepted for payment outside the main tourist areas. ATM: Cash easily can be withdrawn from ATMs using Visa or MasterCard. Any sizeable town has at least one bank with an ATM, and there are ATMs at the larger airports. ATMs generally only dispense notes in increments of TSh 10,000 and these larger notes are often hard for people to change hoard smaller change whenever possible to pay for taxi fares, snacks, souvenirs and the like. Travellers cheques: May be cashed in some banks (try Barclays) or bureaux de change in Tanzania's major cities and Zanzibar, but are less common than they used to be, attract a hefty commission and the process is time consuming. Some places may ask to see original purchase receipts for traveller's cheques. If you are nervous about travelling with lots of hard cash, bring enough to get you started then use ATMs to withdraw local currency off a credit card. Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1530; Sat 0830-1300. Bureaux de change have longer hours and in the cities and in Stone Town on Zanzibar are open on Sundays. Currency restriction: The import and export of local currency is prohibited. The import of foreign currency is unlimited, subject to declaration. The export of foreign currency is limited to the amount declared on arrival.

Currency exchange: US dollars, Pound sterling and Euros may be changed at banks and bureaux de change. US dollars are the best currency to take to Tanzania as it is widely accepted alongside TSh to pay for hotel bills, souvenirs and flights, and is needed to purchase visas on arrival and pay for park entry fees. Bring newer notes because of the prevalence of forgery, many places (including banks and bureaux de change) do not accept US dollar bills printed before 2005. Large dollar bills (such as US$50 and US$100) command a better exchange rate than smaller ones. Ensure bills are not torn or damaged.

TZH 150 500 600 1,000 1,250 2,000 2,500 3,000 4,000

0.05 0.20 0.25 0.39 0.50 0.80 1.00 1.18 1.60

TZH 5,000 6,000 7,000 8,000 9,000 10,000 15,000 20,000 30,000

2.00 2.40 2.80 3.20 3.60 4.00 6.00 8.00 12.00

TZH 40,000 50,000 60,000 70,000 80,000 100,000 150,000 255,000 1,275,300

16.00 20.00 24.00 28.00 32.00 40.00 60.00 100.00 500.00

PART TWO: PLANNING YOUR TRIP

Tanzania duty free
The following items may be imported into Tanzania by travellers over 18 without incurring customs duty: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco. 1 bottle of alcoholic beverages. 1 pint of perfume. There is no duty on any equipment for your own use such as a laptops or cameras.

Banned imports: The import of fruit, plants, seeds, live animals, ammunition and firearms is prohibited. Banned exports: The export of gold, diamonds and tanzanite unless bought from a licensed jeweller is prohibited. Exporting souvenirs made from wildlife skins (this includes reptiles), shells and coral is forbidden.

5. Travelling to Tanzania (international travel)

Flying to Tanzania: There are frequent direct + indirect flights to Tanzania by many international airlines. Air Tanzania, the national carrier, is presently not operating, so currently the principle Tanzanian airline is Precision Air (PRF) www.precisionairtz.com. The national airline of Kenya, Kenya Airways (KQ) www.kenya-airways.com, also serves Tanzania. Air fare prices to Tanzania stay pretty consistent around the year. Plus Flight times: From Lon to Dar es Salaam is 10 hrs. No direct flights from the US and most go via Europe. Departure tax: The international departure tax is US$50 but this is included in the price of an airline ticket. Travel by rail: The route between Dar es Salaam and Kapiri Moshi in Zambia is run by the Tanzania and Zambia Railway Authority (Tazara) (tel: (022) 286 2033; www.tazarasite.com). By rail note: The train journey from Dar es Salaam to Zambia is very long (around 50 hours) and there are frequent delays. Trains get very crowded and travellers should take special care of their baggage. Always travel in First Class in a two or four sleeper compartment. When the train crosses the border between the two countries, immigration officials board the train to complete border formalities Driving to Tanzania: The main international road crossings into Tanzania are from Kenya. The most used is the border crossing at Namanga, about halfway between Nairobi and Arusha. The other principle border crossing is south of Mombasa on the coast at Lunga Lunga, from where the nearest large Tanzanian town is Tanga. There are quieter border crossings at Taveta, between Voi and Moshi, and Isebania on the main road between Kisumu and Mwanza.
Border crossings from other neighbouring countries include the Songwe border with Malawi and the Tunduma border with Zambia, both of which are in the southwestern corner of Tanzania and are reached by a good (but long) road from Dar es Salaam. There is a crossing with Uganda at Mutukulu, northwest of Bukoba, but this is a rough road and a remote region to get to. The easiest way to get to Uganda from Tanzania is via Nairobi in Kenya, from where there are daily bus services to Kampala. There is a border crossing with Rwanda at Rusomo, although again this is in the remote northwestern part of Tanzania although there are bus services between Mwanza and Kigali. Tanzania does share a border with Mozambique to the south, but road access between the two countries is very limited. By road note: There are many local bus companies that ply the main routes over the borders. Several companies run comfortable shuttle bus services between Nairobi and Arusha and Moshi in Tanzania. These are aimed at tourists who fly into Nairobi and are visiting the game parks in Tanzanias northern circuit region from Arusha, or are climbing Mt Kilimanjaro from Moshi. The buses take about 5-6 hours in either direction, and drivers assist passengers with border procedures. Riverside Shuttles (www.riverside-shuttle.com) offer a reliable daily service. For long-distance cross-border bus travel, recommended for visitors is Scandinavia Express, tel: (022) 218 4833; www.scandinaviagroup.com, which has frequent daily departures to and from Nairobi and Arusha, Moshi and Dar es Salaam,

Nairobi and Mwanza, and Mombasa and Dar es Salaam. They also offer daily services between Nairobi and Kampala in Uganda, and from Dar es Salaam to Lusaka in Zambia. Getting to Tanzania by boat: The main port is Dar es Salaam www.tanzaniaports.com, served by commercial ships but no passenger services from other countries. But it does serve as the departure point for ferry services to Zanzibar. Cruise ships: Some cruise ships dock at Zanzibar. Ferry operators: Passenger ferry services run on Lake Tanganyika to Mpulunga (Zambia). They also used to run to Bujumbura (Burundi), and this service is likely to start up again in the future. There is sporadic and unreliable ferry service on Lake Nyasa linking Tanzania with Malawi.

6. Airports in Tanzania - Tanzania Airports Authority - www.taa.go.tz

Dar Es Salaam Julius Nyerere Intl Airport (DAR): The main airport in Dar es Salaam, Julius Nyerere Intl Airport, is the biggest in Tanzania and on course to become the largest in all of East Africa (a JV redevelopment project between Tanzanian Govt + China). Heres some useful info on airport facilities, public transport options and contact details: Theres an information counter on the concourse of Terminal 2 (international flights) tel: 2228 44212, and another one in Terminal 1 (most domestic flights) tel: 2228 44095. Transfer between terminals: There are no shuttle services, but taxis are available to ferry passengers between the two terminals. Terminal 1 caters for general aviation and charter services, while Terminal 2 caters for international airlines, regional and scheduled flights. Driving directions: The airport access road is reached from Nyerere Road formerly known as Pugu Road, connecting to central Dar es Salaam. Public Transport Bus: City buses are easily accessed from Dar es Salaam Julius Nyerere International Airport, with stops located 500m (600 yards) from the terminal. Services run 24 hours, and the 30-minute (minimum) ride to the city centre costs around TZS150. Many hotels have shuttle services for their guests (eg. Tanzania Exec Suites does).
(For ref, the Peacock Hotel (near Tanzania Exec Suites) charges USD $30 1-way or USD$60 2-way for airport transfers)

Taxi: Airport taxis (not metered) are available to anywhere in the city. Negotiate a price before setting off. Rough Guide says taxis are about Tsh 25,000 to city centre; haggling might get you 5,000 off. Terminal facilities - Money: There are banks, ATMs and a bureau de change at the airport - Communication: A post office is located on site - Food: There are3 restaurants at Dar es Salaam Julius Nyerere Intl Airport, 1 in the public area, 2 in Departures - Shopping: There are duty-paid and duty-free shops within the terminals, as well as several gift shops and a pharmacy - Luggage: A lost and found desk is located in the arrivals lounge. Porters are available to assist with luggage - Other: Several travel agents operate at the airport Airport facilities Conference and business: Theres a conference room normally used by airport stakeholders to host meetings, seminars and training. Call TAA (tel: 2228 42402/3) for further information. Several hotels in central Dar es Salaam have conference and business facilities, including the Golden Tulip Hotel Dar es Salaam (tel: 2226 00288. 10

Disabled facilities: Wheelchairs are available at Dar es Salaam Julius Nyerere International Airport. Services and information for disabled travellers are provided by the Ground Handling Company (tel: 2228 44611/9). Car parking: Free car parking is available in front of Terminal 1. Parking is charged at the busier Terminal 2. Car rental: Car hire is available from Tanzania Rent a Car and Avis at the airport (desks are in the Arrivals area). Alternatives can be arranged in town.

Airport hotels: There are no hotels at Dar es Salaam Julius Nyerere Intl Airport, but many hotels in Dar es Salaam have shuttles to/from the airport. Nearby transit motel hotels (2) below: Transit Motel Airport http://www.transitmotels.com Basic accom 5 mins drive from airport, Transit Motel Airport is the closest accom to the terminals. Transfers available on request. Tel: (0)22 28 42177 Plot 4, Block D, Off Nyerere Road, PO Box 18083,Dar es Salaam 6090 Transit Motel Airport - 5 mins drive from airport, we are the most convenient location for travellers arriving late during the night,
or departing very early in the morning. Our recently renovated air-conditioned bed rooms have large queen size beds and twin beds, en-suite toilets and showers, remote controlled TVs, and mosquito nets. A fully a/c breakfast room is open from very early morning to cater for the early departures, offering continental buffet breakfast which is included in the room's rate. Light meals + snacks available until 2300hrs. Transfer to/from Airport or Zanzibar Ferry terminal can be arranged on request. Free wi-fi

5 mins drive from airport, Transit Motel Ukonga offers personalized

services while you're on transit to/from Zanzibar, Kilimanjaro or other places in Tanzania. Our a/c rooms are spacious and comfortable, fitted with telephones, TVs, private toilets + showers, and reading desks. We accept early check-in and late check-out depending on availability. Reception and Room Service available 24 hours. Transfers to/ from airport and Zanzibar Ferry can be arranged on request

Other airports in Tanzania

Kilimanjaro International Airport (JRO) Airport Code: JRO. Location: Airport is 50km (31 miles) from Arusha (journey time - 1 hour). Public transport description: Shuttle bus services are provided by Air Tanzania to their offices in Arusha + Moshi or taxis are available. Tanzanias 2nd biggest airport after Dar es Salaam Julius Nyere Intl.
~ More info at: http://www.kilimanjaroairport.co.tz/ ~ Which airlines fly here? See arrivals here. ~ See map: http://goo.gl/maps/b92AW - JRO airport is between Arusha National Park + Mt. Kili National Park

Mwanza Airport (MWZ) + environs Airport Code: MWZ. Location: Airport is 8 or 10km (6.2 miles) from Mwanza (journey time 25 mins). Public transport: Public minibuses + taxis available at airport. Daladalas cost Tsh300, taxis charge Tsh7000-10,000.
See Mwanza chapter (17) for more info.

Zanzibar Airport (ZNZ) Airport Code: ZNZ. Location: The airport is 4km (2.5 miles) from Stone Town (journey time 15 minutes). Public transport description: Public minibuses and taxis are available for the short distance to Stone Town.
See Zanzibar chapter (22) for more info.

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7. Where to stay in Tanzania accom types Hotels in Tanzania: Tanzania has a vast spread of accommodation options, ranging from luxurious game lodges in gamefilled national parks, heritage buildings in the winding alleys of Stone Town, sprawling resorts and rustic beach huts lining Zanzibar's beaches, and extending down-budget all the way to a plethora of middling mid-range hotels and the cheap, rough-around-the-edges guest houses. Hotels in Tanzania vary from superbly finished, expensive luxury hotels with all the trimmings found in the cities and popular tourist areas, to mid-range generic hotels favoured by local business people, and cheap board and lodgings in the regional towns, which, although sometimes adequate, have little atmosphere and can have security issues. The island of Zanzibar has probably the best assortment of accommodation choices, from luxury resorts to beach bungalows and budget hotels. On the beach are large and modern, fully-contained resorts aimed at package holidaymakers, while the capital of Stone Town boasts many hotels housed in converted, atmospheric heritage buildings, often with ornate four-poster beds and decorated with antiques and Persian carpets. Bed and breakfast: Referred to locally as board and lodgings, these are often offshoots of local bars and provide very cheap accommodation, but offer little more than a bed in a bare room with a door that may or may not lock. At these you will want to ensure rooms are clean, there is water in the bathrooms and special attention to possessions should be paid while staying there. These cannot be booked in advance. Camping: There are public campsites in many of the national parks. Some have standard facilities, including taps, toilets and firewood; others are more basic with just a cleared space to park a vehicle and pitch a tent. Permits for camping in the parks must be paid for along with entry to each park. It is advisable to check the prices and site procedure before arrival. A list of public and private campsites is available from the Tanzania National Parks (www.tanzaniaparks.com). Other accommodation: Lodges: There are safari lodges in all national parks and game reserves. Some of these have hundreds of rooms and are aimed at families and tour groups, so while they have decent standards can feel a little impersonal. Others are top-end luxury lodges or tented camps with just a few decadent rooms, boasting impeccable service in stunning locations. Expect to pay exorbitant prices for even the most 'budget' lodge, with bookings essential for popular lodges in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro National Parks. Reservations can be made through specialist tour operators as part of a safari trip, or by contacting the lodges directly. Resorts: There are dozens of beach resorts on Zanzibar and at a few places on the mainland coast that are aimed at holiday-makers looking for the typical sun, sea and sand experience. Most have been built sensitively, with rooms in low blocks of buildings covered in makuti thatch. These offer B&B, half-board, full-board or all-inclusive rates (extras like watersports and childrens activities may be included). Bookings can be made directly through the resort or through the local tour operators. Room rates at beach resorts tend to be seasonal the high season runs from the beginning of June to mid-October and again from Christmas to mid-February; at these times reservations should be made well in advance 8. Travel advice FCO travel advice for Tanzania
The travel advice summary below is provided by the Foreign and Commonwealth Office in the UK. We r efers to the FCO. For full travel advice, visit http://www.fco.gov.uk/en/travel-and-living-abroad/travel-advice-by-country/sub-saharan-africa/tanzania Last updated: 15 Feb 2013 (still current as of 10 March)

There are no travel restrictions in place for Tanzania. Other advice:

We have received unconfirmed reports that planned demonstrations may occur on Friday 15 February in Dar es Salaam. Areas of potential concern include Kawawa Road, Kinondoni Road, Ali Hassan Mwinyi (from the junction of Kenyatta and Ali Hassan Mwinyi to the city center), Morogoro Road, and Nyerere Road. See Political situation.

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 Over the weekend of 25-27 January, there have been reports of violent disturbances targeting official establishments in Mtwara, Masasai and Newala Districts in the South of Tanzania. Monitor the local media, take care and avoid any demonstrations or large gatherings particularly in public places . On 25 September 2012 a Greek national was killed after she was dragged along the road in central Dar es Salaam by thieves, who reached out of a moving vehicle to steal her backpack which she was unable to release. In an isolated incident in August 2012 a Swiss national was killed when suspected robbers entered his property in the Peninsula area of Dar es Salaam. On Wednesday 18 July 2012 a local ferry, MV Skagit, enroute from Dar es Salaam to Stone Town in Zanzibar, capsized. Over 100 passengers were rescued, including a number of EU nationals, but many people died, with reports suggesting that the ferry was overloaded. This is the second such ferry disaster to occur in Tanzania in less than a year when on Saturday 10 September 2011 another local ferry, MV Spice Islander, sank on route to Pemba from Unguja (Zanzibar). There have been a number of confrontations between villagers and land owners, including British nationals, in areas east of Arusha following the Arumeru-East by election on 1 April. You should exercise caution in this area and avoid large gatherings, be alert to any developments that may trigger unrest and if you become aware of any nearby troubles avoid the area. No tourists or tourist attractions (national parks) have been affected. There has been an increase in the number of incidents involving express kidnap, muggings and bag grabs, both on the mainland and Zanzibar. We advise both resident and visiting British nationals to remain vigilant at all times. See Crime updated March 2012 There is an underlying threat from terrorism. Attacks could be indiscriminate, including in places frequented by expatriates and foreign travellers. Piracy is a significant threat in the Gulf of Aden and Indian Ocean, especially for shipping that does not take appropriate precautions, or follow agreed shipping industry best practice guidelines. There have been an increasing number of piracy attacks in the waters immediately off Tanzania. Pirates are increasingly attacking smaller vessels with gunfire, including tourist and fishing vessels, and coming closer to shore. British nationals have been taken hostage. We caution against sailing out of sight of shore. The capacity of the Tanzanian Navy to respond to pirate attacks is very limited. See Sea Travel and Piracy in the Indian Ocean. You should exercise particular caution if you intend to travel to the area bordering Burundi. See Burundi border areas . Long distance buses are frequently involved in accidents which can often result in fatalities. If you have concerns over the safety of the vehicle or the ability of the driver, use alternative methods of transport. Around 75,000 British tourists visit Tanzania every year. Most visits are trouble-free. See Consular assistance statistics. You should keep your passport safe and secure at all times, and remember to carry a photocopy. _____ On Saturday 10 September 2011 a local passenger/freight ferry, MV Spice Islander, sank on route to Pemba from Unguja (Zanzibar). Over 600 passengers were rescued but hundreds died, with reports suggesting the ferry was overloaded. On Wednesday 16 February 2011 an army ammunitions depot exploded in the Gongola Mboto district of Dar es Salaam, near to the international airport. There is still a risk of unexploded debris being found. We advise British nationals in the Dar es Salaam area to be vigilant and avoid any debris/objects that may have originated from the explosion. Report anything suspicious to your local police station. Please monitor local news and FCO travel advice for updated information. You should take out comprehensive travel and medical insu rance before travelling.

Embassies and tourist offices High Commission for the United Republic of Tanzania in the UK Tanzania House, 3 Stratford Place, London WC1 1AS, UK Tel: (020) 7569 1470 http://tanzaniahighcommission.co.uk Mon-Fri 1000-1230 (applications), 1400-1530 (collections). Tanzania Tourist Board

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IPS Building, Samora Avenue, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, tel: (022) 211 1244/5. http://www.tanzaniatouristboard.com Open: Mon-Fri 0800-1600; Sat 0830-1230. British High Commission in Tanzania Umoja House, Garden Avenue, Dar es Salaam, tel: (022) 229 0000. http://www.ukintanzania.fco.gov.uk Open: Mon-Thu 0730-1530; Fri 0730-1330

Visa and passport requirements Passports: A passport valid for at least six months beyond date of entry to Tanzania required by all nationals referred to in the chart: Visas: Visas for Tanzania are required by all nationals referred to as above (incl UK). Single-entry and transit visas can be obtained on arrival at the port of entry into Tanzania. Passport photos are not required; all other requirements must be in place. However, multiple-entry visas cannot be issued at the point of entry and must be obtained in advance through Tanzanias embassies. For info about visas, visit the Tanzania High Commission in the UK site. While still part of Tanzania, Zanzibar and the other islands are administered autonomously; they have their own immigration procedures and you will be asked to show your passport on entry and exit. Tanzania has an agreement with Kenya and Uganda to waiver visa re-entry fees if travelling between the three countries, so long as single-entry visas remain valid for each country. This means another visa is not required if going from Tanzania to Kenya/Uganda and then back to Tanzania (or in any other combination). Types and cost: Transit, US$30; single-entry, US$50 (the exception is US and Irish citizens for whom a single-entry visa is US$100); multiple-entry, US$100. Validity: Transit: up to 14 days from date of issue; single-entry: up to 3 months; Multiple-entry: up to 12 months. Application to: Obtain visas from a Tanzania high commission or embassy before travel. They can also be obtained at any point of entry (airports and land borders) on arrival. This is a much easier option but you will need to pay for them in US$ cash. Ensure you have sufficient blank pages in your passport (the minimum for entry into Tanzania is two). Temporary residence: Residence permits are granted to foreign nationals if employed by a Tanzanian company, or working as missionaries/ volunteers; must be applied for through the Ministry of Home Affairs (www.moha.go.tz). Working days: For visa applications, five working days (applying in person) or 10 working days (postal applications). Sufficient funds: Onward ticket or tour itinerary/confirmation, or proof of funds e.g. credit card, is required. Extension of stay: Extensions of visas (three months at a time and up to six months) can be made at Immigration on the corner of Ohio St and Garden Avenue, Dar es Salaam (tel: (022) 211 8637; www.moha.go.tz), or on Zanzibar, the immigration office at the port.

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9. Healthcare & vaccinations Before leaving home, visit the doctor or a travel clinic for advice on vaccinations, malaria prophylactics and general advice. Basic traveller vaccinations recommended include yellow fever, tetanus, typhoid and hepatitis A. It is vital to take out comprehensive travel medical insurance, and it is essential that is should include repatriation to your home country in the event of an emergency. There are a wide variety of policies to choose from, so shop around. If you are going to be active in Tanzania (mountain climbing or scuba-diving for example), ensure the policy has adequate provision. There are some good private hospitals in Dar es Salaam, Arusha and Stone Town on Zanzibar, but facilities are rudimentary outside of these and medicines are often unavailable. All treatment must be paid for in advance. Tanzanias emergency telephone number (ambulance, fire and police) is 111. The best private hospital in the country is the Aga Khan Hospital, Ocean Road, Dar es Salaam, (tel: (022) 211 5151; www.agakhanhospitals.org. But for cases of extreme emergencies or surgery, visitors with adequate health insurance will be transferred to a private hospital in Nairobi, Kenya which has the best medical facilities in East Africa. Malaria: The risk of contracting malaria is prevalent throughout Tanzania and prophylactics should be taken (take expert advice before you leave home). Symptoms can start as something resembling a severe attack of flu. If you develop any symptoms even after several weeks after your return home, seek medical advice. Travellers should take precautions against mosquito bites cover-up at dusk and use insect repellent. Almost all hotels in Tanzania have air-conditioning and/or fans which help ward off mosquitoes and most tourist-class hotels have mosquito nets over the beds. Altitude sickness: This can strike from about 3,000m (9,800ft) and is caused by lack of oxygen and should be a consideration for anyone climbing Mt Kilimanjaro. Symptoms include heart pounding, shortness of breath and dizziness. The best way of preventing it is a relatively slow ascent - some time spent walking at medium altitude, getting fit and acclimatizing is helpful. To decrease the symptoms, an immediate descent is necessary. Food and drink: All water should be regarded as being potentially contaminated. Travellers should use bottled water for drinking, brushing teeth, washing vegetables and reconstituting powdered milk. Ice should be avoided. Other food hygiene precautions should be strictly observed if eating in a local restaurant, but visitors should encounter few problems if eating in upmarket restaurants and hotels. Eating snacks from street stalls (common in Tanzania) is not advised, but if items are fresh and cooked well (and the same could be said about buffets in tourist hotels) then you shouldnt encounter any problems. If you get travellers diarrhoea, which doesnt usually last more than 48 hours, the key treatment is rehydration. If it is more persistent, then seek medical advice. Other risks: Rabies is prevalent in Tanzania (in monkeys as well as domestic animals). There is a high incidence of HIV/AIDS. Avoid swimming and paddling in fresh water as there is a risk of bilharzia (prevalent in both lakes Victoria and Tanganyika); swimming pools that are well chlorinated and maintained are safe. On the coast and islands, there are sea urchins so take care when snorkelling and diving if possible wear plastic shoes. If diving, ensure you are fit to do so. Be aware that serious diving injuries may require time in a decompression chamber and the nearest one is in Kenya check that your medical insurance covers this eventuality

Advice from Lous nurse:

Nurse referenced: http://www.fitfortravel.nhs.uk/destinations/africa/united-republic-of-tanzania.aspx and referred to this map, for yellow fever risk areas: http://www.fitfortravel.nhs.uk/advice/disease-prevention/yellow-fever/yellow-fever-risk-areas.aspx She said: no yellow fever jabs needed as long as we stay on the Tanzania side of Lake Victoria (?) And advised to prevent against:

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~ typhoid and hepititis A is currently a joint vaccine (done): ~ tetanus booster? no, current guidelines say if you had all your injections at school and a booster since (she said 5 total injections) you're ok for life (had done anyway c/o 1st contact) ~ anti-malarials: it's high risk in Tanzania so always use insect repellent over your sun cream and even on the soles of your feet if wearing flip-flops. Night time mosquitos carry malaria (use net) and day time mozzies carry dengue fever. Either malarone (privately made, expensive @ 40 for 12 tablets) or doxycyclone (on NHS, cheaper, a type of antibiotic, continue taking it 4 weeks after come home) ~ don't swim in lakes/ rivers: Schistosomiasis bacteria in river water. It does bad stuff to you and makes you ill! ~ rabies: risk area, consider getting shots against rabies (privately at 1st Contact travel clinic) but v expensive. Don't get bitten! And if you do contract sth or don't feel well on return, you can always go to the Hospital for tropical diseases in London.

10. Public holidays + events Public Holidays for 2013 Public holiday note: Muslim festivals are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon; dates below are approximations.
During the lunar month of Ramadan preceding Eid al-Fitr (October), Muslims fast during the day and feast at night; normal business patterns may be interrupted. Some disruption may continue into Eid al-Fitr itself. Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha may last up to several days, depending on the region.

2013
January 01: New Year's Day January 12: Zanzibar Revolution Day January 24: Milad un Nabi (Birth of the Prophet Muhammad) February : Busara music festival - http://www.busaramusic.org/ March 03: Kili marathon - http://www.kilimanjaromarathon.com/ March 29: Good Friday April 01: Easter Monday April 26: Union Day May 01: Labour Day July 07: Saba Saba (Dar es salaam International Trade Fair Day) August 08: Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan) August 08: Nane Nane (Farmers' Day) October 14: Nyerere Day October 15: Eid al-Adha (Feast of Sacrifice) December 09: Independence and Republic Day December 25: Christmas Day December 26: Boxing Day

More events at http://www.worldtravelguide.net/tanzania/events

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PART THREE: WHILE THERE 11. Things to see and do in Tanzania 1. Lake Manyara National Park Lake Manyara is easily seen from the road that climbs up the Rift Valley, where all safari vehicles on their way to the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater stop for a gawk at the pink flamingos. Once inside the park there are tracks through the permanent oasis of lush greenery, with the algae-streaked lake on one side and impressive baobab-strewn cliffs on the other. Its famous for its tree-climbing lions, and elephant are easily spotted among the giant acacia and fig trees. 2. Bull Fighting The island of Pemba is famed for its traditional sport of bull fighting. Unlike its Spanish counterpart, this sport does not involve killing the bulls, but is a hangover from the days of Portuguese rule in the 16th and 17th centuries. 3. Fishing The waters off Tanzania's coast are ripe for big-game fishing, best done from the island of Mafia. Big catches are made in the waters here, including shark, barracuda, marlin and snapper, with power boats and tackle available for hire from the lodges on the island. 4. Game drive at Tarangire National Park The Tarangire National Park, only 130km (80 miles) from Arusha and 8km (5 miles) off the Great Cape to Cairo road, is easily accessible but often overlooked in favour of the other northern circuit parks. However, a game drive here rewards with unusual scenery of giant silver-trunked baobab trees, and the Tarangire River is a favourite haunt for wildebeest, zebra, eland and elephant. 5. Hot air ballooning The endless plains of the Serengeti (www.serengeti.org) come to life in the early hours of the dawn, and seeing the park wake from a hot air balloon is of the world's great natural spectacles. The annual migration of some two million wildebeest followed by their predators, from November to May, is the best time to hitch a ride. 6. Mount Meru The lower slopes of Mount Meru (4566m/14980ft) in Arusha National Park are one of the most easily accessible places to spot buffalo, giraffe, black and white colobus monkey and warthog and it is one of the few parks where walking is permitted. The 3-day trek to the summit of the mountain, although far less popular, is an equally challenging and cheaper option than climbing Mt Kilimanjaro. 7. Mwenge Carvers' Market Located 8km (5 miles) north of Dar es Salaam on the way to the northern beaches, this fascinating market has vendors selling their beautiful handmade wares. Many of the items are carved from dark shiny ebony, and this is the place to come to buy famous Makonde wood carvings the Makonde people come from southern Tanzania and are considered to be some of the finest carvers in East Africa. 8. National Museum & House of Culture Located next to the Botanical Gardens in Dar es Salaam, the National Museum (www.houseofculture.or.tz) reveals the fascinating history and culture of this ancient region, and features the 1.7-million-year-old skull of Nutcracker Man. Peacocks stroll the gardens, where there is a striking sculpture in memory of victims of the 1998 Dar es Salaam US Embassy bombing.

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9. Ngorongoro crater safari At 610m (2,000 ft) deep, 20km (12.5 miles) wide and covering 311 sq km (122 sq miles), the Ngorongoro Crater is the largest intact caldera in the world. Another of Tanzanias UNESCO World Heritage Sites, the crater is densely packed with almost every species of African plains mammal (including the densest lion population in Africa). Safaris to the crater are often made in conjunction with visits to the Serengeti National Park. 10. Ruaha River Gorge - www.tanzaniaparks.com The Ruaha River Gorge in the Ruaha National Park boasts unparalleled scenery along its length. Tanzania's second-largest and wildest park, it is famous for its exceptionally large herds of elephant, buffalo and over 400 species of bird 11. Safari in the Serengeti - http://www.serengeti.org The most famous national park in all of Africa is in Tanzania, and a safari through the Serengeti is a must-do on any visit to Tanzania - especially during the famed wildebeest migration (Nov to May). Close sightings of the 'big five' (lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard and rhino) are almost guaranteed. Safaris can be arranged all over Tanzania, particularly in nearby Arusha, the springboard town for safaris to all the parks in Tanzanias northern circuit. 12. Scuba-diving Technicolor marine life surrounds the coral islands of Zanzibar and Pemba - ideal for scuba-diving and snorkelling. There are countless dive sites around the islands that are protected as marine national parks and reserves. The warm Indian Ocean has clear visibility to see all kinds of coral, brightly coloured fish, dolphins, manta rays, turtles and sharks. 13. Selous Game Reserve - www.tanzaniaparks.com For a truly remote wildlife adventure, head to an isolated lodge here. This UNESCO World Heritage Site covers an area larger than Switzerland (about one-sixth of Tanzania's land surface), making it one of the biggest reserves in the world. Home to a full complement of African animals; renowned for its exceptionally large elephant herds. 14. Spice plantation tours As the epicentre of the historical spice trade, Zanzibar is the place for an aromatic tour of spice and fruit plantations. Organised tours are available all over the 'Spice Island' (as Zanzibar is also known), with tastings and specimens available for sale along the way. 15. Stone Town Zanzibar's Stone Town was the hub of the ancient spice trade, and once served as the maritime metropolis of East Africa, variously ruled by Shirazi Persians, the Portuguese, the Omani Arabs and British colonials. Today, this UNESCO World Heritage Site remains a labyrinth of narrow, winding streets lined with exotic shops, bazaars, colonial mansions, mosques and squares. 18

16. Sukuma Museum The Sukuma Museum, 15km (9 miles) east of Mwanza on Lake Victoria, is unique for its weekly staged performances of traditional dances of the Wasukuma tribe, including the Bugobobobo (Sukuma Snake Dance) (www.sukumamuseum.org) 17. Tracking chimpanzees on Lake Tanganyika Troops of wild chimpanzees thrive in the Gombe Stream and Mahale national parks (www.tanzaniaparks.com) on the shores of Lake Tanganyika. Both parks have spectacular scenery with mountains of forested valleys plunging into the lake and are one of the few places in Africa to see chimps in their natural habitat. Treks can be arranged to follow the troops with sightings almost guaranteed. 18. Trekking Mount Kilimanjaro As the highest peak on the African continent at 5,895m (19,341 ft) Mt Kilimanjaro has taunted avid explorers with its snow-capped peak for decades. Its a hard slog to the top, but anyone of reasonable fitness can do it, and five- or six-day well organised climbs include guides, porters, food and equipment. Watching the sunrise over this splendid summit is an indescribable spectacle. 19. Visit Bagamoyo The ancient town of Bagamoyo, 72km (45 miles) north of Dar es Salaam, was a one-time slave port and terminus for the trade caravans. The town mosque and Arab tombs date from the 18th century, while there are a number of churches and mission buildings dating from the 19th century and later buildings from when the Germans occupied the town during the colonial period. Pick up a guide for a walk around town, and its an easy day excursion from Dar es Salaam. 20. Zanzibar's beaches Zanzibars magnificent swathes of palm-backed white sands make for a wonderful beach holiday. The many resorts (from simple beach cottages to 5-star luxury) offer a range of activities, such as water-sports, diving and snorkelling, sunset cruises on white-sailed dhows not to mention delicious dining in fine seafood restaurants.

13. Shopping + nightlife in Tanzania

Pick up African crafts and curios at most popular tourist centres. Dar es Salaam, Arusha and Stone Town on Zanzibar are dotted with curio shops, markets and bazaars, and main roads near parks and reserves, and the coast roads behind beach resorts, all have plenty of roadside stalls. Items to buy include African drums, batiks, basket-ware, soapstone knick-knacks, handmade chess sets, paintings of Masai tribes and Serengeti landscapes in the popular Tingatinga style, and large wooden carvings of animals or salad bowls fashioned from a single piece of teak, mninga or ebony. Masai items such as beaded jewellery, decorated gourds and the distinctive red-checked blankets worn by all Masai men make good souvenirs. Kangas and kikois are sarongs worn by women and men respectively and are often in bright colours and patterns. These are made into other items including clothes, cushion covers and bags. In Zanzibar, find old tiles, antique bowls and the famous carved wooden Zanzibar chests (once used by the Sultans to store their possessions, but today ornate replicas), and pick up packets of Zanzibar's famous spices in Stone Town, as well as on a spice tour. A Tanzanian speciality is the semi-precious stone called tanzanite, which ranges from deep blue to light purple and is only found around Arusha. Tanzanite jewellery can be seen in upmarket curio and jewellers shops in Arusha, Dar

es Salaam and Zanzibar's Stone Town. Whilst most prices in shops are set, the exception are curio shops where a little good-natured bargaining is possible, especially if its quiet or you are buying a number of things. Bargaining is very much expected in the street markets. Shopping hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1730; Sat 0830-1230. Some tourist shops open on Sunday, while some Muslim-owned supermarkets and other businesses close on Friday afternoons but may also be open on Sunday. On Zanzibar, some

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shops close for a siesta from around 1200-1500 but stay open later until around 1900. In the larger cities markets are open daily 0800-1800. Note: CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) was established to prevent trade in endangered species. Attempts to smuggle controlled products can result in confiscation, fines and even imprisonment. International trade in elephant ivory, rhino horn, sea turtle products and the skins of wild cats, such as leopard, is illegal. Nightlife in Tanzania: Nightlife is limited in Tanzania, but Dar es Salaam does have several nightclubs, cabaret venues and cinemas. Generally, nightlife is centred on the top tourist hotels and restaurants. All along the coast, and particularly on Zanzibar, hotels and beach bars often feature bands at the weekends and dance floors right on the beach. Quite often, traditional tribal dancing and drumming is performed in the safari lodges and beach resorts. Rowdy full moon parties have become popular on Zanzibar's backpacker-focused northern beaches.

14. Food and drink Food in Tanzania greatly varies depending on where you are in the country and what food products are available locally. On the mainland and away from the coast, most hotels serve Tanzanian dishes that usually consists of meat stews or fried chicken, accompanied by staples including chips, boiled potatoes or ugali (maize meal porridge eaten all over Africa). Many Tanzanian towns have a significant population of second-generation immigrants from the Indian subcontinent, and restaurants serving Indian dishes like biryani, spicy curries and chapatti bread are not uncommon. On the coast, the Indian Ocean provides a full range of seafood, and the Swahili style of food is delicately flavoured by spices and coconut milk and features fragrant rice, grilled fish and prawn curries; it's best sampled on Zanzibar where a tourist must-do is to treat yourself to a whole lobster (at a surprisingly affordable price). Tropical fruit such as coconuts, pawpaws, mangoes, pineapples and bananas are abundant, as are the delicious fresh juices made from them. There is much greater variety of cuisines in the cities and tourist spots. Dar es Salaam is a fairly cosmopolitan large city with a good choice of world-food restaurants (the likes of Thai or Japanese feature for example) and the major hotels and safari lodges offer Western and other international food. Many of the larger beach resorts and safari lodges offer breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets for their all-inclusive guests. These vary greatly some can be fairly limited and of poor quality while others offer a generous selection of fine topclass cuisine.

Specialities: Nyama choma (barbecued meat) Ugali (maize meal porridge) Mandazi (doughnuts) Kachumbari (spicy tomato relish served with meat) Wali wa nazi (rice cooked with coconut milk) Mchuzi wa kamba (prawn curry with tomatoes) Matoke (boiled and mashed plantain) Mishkaki (beef kebabs)
Things to know: Table service is normal in restaurants, while bars generally have counter service. On the coast and on Zanzibar, the population is predominantly Muslim, so while alcohol is available in the tourist hotels and resorts, it is not available in local restaurants and should not be drunk in public. Drinking age: 18

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Tipping: In Tanzania tipping is not expected but a tip of around 10% for good service is greatly appreciated by restaurant and hotel staff, most of whom receive very low pay. Large hotels, safari lodges and beach resorts many have tip boxes in reception to be are shared amongst the staff.

Regional drinks: Safari (a good lager that is produced locally) Konyagi (a popular, cheap, and frightfully(!) strong gin) Coffee (is an Arabica variety grown on the slopes of Kilimanjaro and served black in small porcelain cup s) Chai (tea served very sweet in small glasses especially on the coast and Zanzibar)

15. Getting around

Air ~ FastJet: http://www.fastjet.com/tz/our-airline
eg. Dar es Salaam to Kilimanjaro airport 1-way w FastJet is TZS 32,000 (12)

fly540 (now fastjet) - Budget no frills airline founded 2005; fly from Dar to Entebbe, Kili, Kisumu, Zanzibar, etc. See Inflight magazine issue 7 (Jan 2013) or Issuu download ~ routes being taken over by fastjet from 2012 See Fastjet braced for turbulence March 2013 article in The Telegraph
On fastjets launch, summer 2012, there was no obvious quibbling with the management team either. FastJets chief executive, Ed Winter, is a former chief operating officer of easyJet. Meanwhile, the man responsible for founding that airline, Sir Stelios Haji-Ioannou, was aboard for the ride, taking a 50,000 (43,080) consultancy fee and a 5pc stake in return for licensing his FastJet brand. Since its launch, FastJets regular announcements largely give the impression of a smooth flight. But below the surfac e a huge row is going on. It has pitted the founder of its Kenyan wing, Don Smith, against FastJets combative chairman, David Lenigas. The bust-up helps explain why most of the unofficial news-flow lately has concerned disputes over alleged unpaid aircraft leasing charges, landing fees, bank debts and tax. To understand whats going on, go back to the 55m all-share deal June 2012 that saw Lonhros aviation wing, Fly540, reverse into the Aimlisted Rubicon Diversified Investments. The new company was renamed FastJet. Today, it flies three Airbus A319s in Tanzania under the FastJet brand and seven planes in Ghana, Angola and Kenya under the Fly540 livery. Part of the deal involved buying out Mr Smith, the owner of 51pc of Five Forty Aviation, the company that alongside Lonrho owned the Kenyan operation Fly540 Kenya. Mr Smith agreed to sell his controlling stake for $2.25m (1.5m) cash and a further $1m in shares. Mr Smith alleged two main things. First that he had not been paid. And, second, that Mr Lenigas reneged on a deal to clear almost $7m of inter-company debts at Kenyas Chase bank. The loans had been guaranteed by Five Forty Aviation, including $2.1m by Mr Smith person ally. Last July, Mr Smith wrote to Mr Lenigas, saying: I have not received my shares in Rubicon. The deal was always based on Lonhro/Rubicon clearing the bank debt You have not paid the $2.1m you pledged to pay Chase. No proposal has been made to Chase on repayment of the rest of the debt. Mate, I am not being difficult but [as] far as Im concerned the deal is still not done yet. etc etc

~ Precision Air www.precisionairtz.com - run regular services, mostly via Dar es Salaam, Kilimanjaro or Zanzibar, to all main towns and other destinations in East Africa and beyond ~ All national parks and some top-end luxury lodges have airstrips and Coastal Air www.coastal.cc operates between these and the main airports on the mainland and the islands of Zanzibar, Pemba and Mafia ~ ZanAir www.zanair.com has frequent connections between Zanzibar, Pemba and the mainland.

Flying between destinations saves a lot of time, particularly on a short holiday, and flights are affordable and run reasonably efficiently. The most popular route by air in Tanzania is between the northern circuit parks (the Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater etc.) and Zanzibar. For some destinations, Gombe Stream or Mahale on Lake Tanganyika for example, flying is the preferable option and saves days by road or rail journey.

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Air notes: Many smaller airlines run services in circuits and flights may involve several stops as the plane drops passengers at different airstrips on each circuit. Eg, a flight to the Serengeti may pickup and drop-off passengers at several safari lodges on the same circuit. They generally use small six- or 12-seater planes, and while they have frequent scheduled flights, will only fly with the required minimum of passengers, though sometimes this is only two people. Note that on the smaller aircraft, the baggage allowance is 15 kg so you may have to leave luggage at hotels in Dar es Salaam or Arusha (or other major departure points). Departure tax: All taxes are included in the price of an air ticket. Side of road: Left Road quality: Tanzania has a decent network of tarmac and all-weather roads connecting the major towns. Away from the main highways, however, the majority of roads are bad and hazardous. Most of the minor roads are unmade gravel with potholes: there are many rough stretches and they deteriorate further in the rainy season. While there is a tarred road from Arusha to the Ngorongoro Crater, beyond there (and in other parts of the country) road conditions in the parks and reserves of Tanzania are extremely rough, and during the rainy season, many are passable only with high clearance 4-wheel drive vehicles. Fuel is available along the main highways and in towns, but if youre going way off the beaten track, consider taking a couple of jerry cans of extra fuel. Also ensure the vehicle has a jack and possibly take a shovel to dig it out of mud or sand. It is not advisable to drive at night because of wild animals, cattle and goats on the road. Also be wary of driving behind public transport vehicles (buses and mini-buses), which can break sharply to pick up passengers. Road classification: There are 86,472km (53,731 miles) of roads in Tanzania, of which about 15% are tarred. The rest vary from gravel to dirt rural tracks. The main trunk roads are numbered A or B and link the major centres. However their classification does not necessarily mean that they are either tarred and/or in good condition. The best roads are from Arusha across the border to Nairobi, Arusha to Dar es Salaam, and Dar es Salaam to Zambia and Malawi. On Zanzibar, the major road that loops around the island is tarred and in good condition. Car hire: Car hire can be expensive, and rates (particularly the mileage charges) can vary a good deal. Most companies insist that only 4-wheel-drive vehicles should be hired if going into the parks and reserves or off the beaten track. Vehicles with drivers are also available. International car hire companies are represented in Dar es Salaam, but elsewhere the only option is to go through a tour operator. Hiring a jeep for a day or two on Zanzibar is a popular way to explore the island and this can be arranged through any tour operator or large hotel. To hire a car you generally need to be over 23. Taxi: Taxis cannot be hailed in the street but they are found parked up at transport hubs like airports, rail and bus stations, and at major intersections in the cities and towns. Most hotels and restaurants can find one for you. They are not metered and you have to negotiate the fare before you get in. This can be tricky as its not uncommon for taxi drivers to charge tourists overinflated prices but conversely a taxi driver simply will not take you if you bargain a fare thats too low. At the airports in Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar there are well-organised taxi associations who have desks outside the arrivals terminals with a list of fares to various destinations. You should organise a taxi at these. Bike: The most popular place to hire a bike is on Zanzibar, and any hotel can organise this. Note though that bicycles are the old-fashioned and heavy type and cycling during the day can be hot. Additionally, watch out for motorists, as they generally have little respect for cyclists and expect them to get out of the way or leave the road when they pass. Coach: There are numerous private bus companies operating in Tanzania. However, most vehicles are old and basic and depart when full, which means there are no set timetables and they can be uncomfortable. Petty theft on the vehicles and at bus stations can also be a problem. Nevertheless, fares are cheap and they link all long-distance destinations. Again, like for the cross-border routes, Scandinavia Express (tel: (022) 218 4833; www.scandinaviagroup.com) are the best bet for city-to-city long distance routes as their coaches are modern, have air-conditioning and onboard toilets and run to fixed schedules. Smaller vehicles known as dala-dalas (minibuses) link the smaller towns over short distances and can be flagged down from the side of the road, but they are crowded and can be driven erratically. 22

Regulations: In non-residential areas, speed limits are 120kph (75mph) and 60kph (35mph) in built up areas. It is compulsory to wear a seat belt and obligatory that all vehicles carry two red triangles to be placed 20m (66ft) in front and behind the vehicle in the event of a breakdown. Breakdown service: There is no formal breakdown service so ensure whoever you hire a car from can provide sufficient backup service in the event of an emergency. Documentation: Either an international driving licence, or pay a small fee to have your own country licence endorsed in Tanzania by the police (the car hire company organises this). Third party insurance is mandatory and its recommended to take out the additional collision damage waiver. A credit card is also needed. Getting around towns and cities: Dala-dalas are local passenger vehicles using minibuses (on Zanzibar they are also small trucks with open backs and bench-like seating). They are by the far largest method of urban and rural transport and are cheap, but services are often crowded and pickpockets are common. They depart and arrive from various terminals around urban centres and can also be flagged down in the street. As well as regular taxis, the three-wheel tuktuks of South East Asia are also popular in town centres and take three passengers behind the driver. Rail: Tanzania's railways are in feeble condition, with breakdowns and cancellations of already infrequent services all too common. Tanzania Railways Corporation (TRC) (tel: (022) 211 7833 - www.trctz.com - operates the Central Line, which runs between Dar es Salaam and western Tanzania. The line splits at Tabora in the middle of the country and one branch continues to Kigoma on the shores of Lake Tanganyika, while the second branch goes north to Mwanza on Lake Victoria. The route between Dar es Salaam and Mbeya in the southwest and on to Kapiri Moshi in Zambia is run by the Tanzania and Zambia Railway Authority (Tazara) (tel: (022) 226 2191 - www.tazarasite.com . By rail note: Trains get very crowded and theft can be a problem - keep compartment doors locked. There are three classes: first class is reasonably comfortable, with two- or four-berth compartments, washbasin, etc; second class in sixberth compartments is more basic; third is simple wooden seating. The dining-car service is adequate, but its always a good idea to take snacks and drinks as there are frequent delays and journeys may take a lot longer than scheduled. By water: Azam Marine tel: (022) 212 3324 - www.azammarine.com (US $70 return per person or $40 one way see screenshot. Four hydrofoils a day with Azam marine from Dar to Zanzibar, leaving at 9am, 12 noon, 3pm + 17:45. And free wi-fi! See http://www.azammarine.com/azam-news/ ) and Fast Ferries (tel: (022) 213 7049 www.fastferriestz.com - among many other companies, run comfortable, airconditioned ferry services several times a day between Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar by hydrofoil (website says catamaran? - journey time - 90 minutes). Some of the services also continue on from Zanzibar to Pemba Island. Timetables and tickets can be obtained at the booking offices at the main passenger port on Sokoine Drive adjacent to the jetty. Payment for ferry tickets is in US$ cash only (you seem to be able to book online now). There is a basic overnight steamer service on Lake Victoria that runs between the ports of Bukoba and Mwanza and takes 10 hours.

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PART FOUR: DAR ES SALAAM + BEYOND 16. Dar es Salaam

Main source: WorldTravelGuide.net Dar es Saalaam highlights by Rough Guide 1. Kariakoo Market crowded, hectic, bewildering, exhilarating... a pungent feast for the senses 2. National Museum covers every angle on Tanzanian culture + history from Nutcracker Man and prehistoric fish to wooden bicycles + xylophones 3. Food it wasnt so long ago that Dar was a gastronomic desert. Not any more karibu chakula! See Rough Guide section for more info (3 pages on) 4. Nightlife bars, nightclubs + dance halls galore, a heaven for night owls 5. Traditional music Radio Tanzania sells 100+ recordings of music of the ancestors, as well as guitar rich muziki wa dansi a national treasure 6. Wonder welders some of the weirdest + most inspirational metalwork youve ever seen + light enough to carry home 7. Beaches escape the city + head north for a range of watersports, south for a quiet respite

About - Dar es Salaam offers attractive colonial architecture, labyrinthine streets, reasonable restaurants and lively markets. The ubiquitous music of the city, a sort of guitar and brass-driven dance form, permeates everything and encapsulates the laid-back attitude of the [former, sic] Tanzanian capital (Dodoma has been the political capital since 1970s). Dar es Salaam (meaning haven of peace') is a city which blends African, Arabic and Asian influences. Within the city itself, Arabic and Indian districts thrive and Muslims, Sikhs and Hindus tolerantly coexist. Despite being a large commercial metropolis, Dar still has the air of a much smaller coastal town. A rectilinear grid of streets spread inland from the waterfront, where traditional dhows (long, flat sailboats) and modern hydrofoils compete for space. While Dar es Salaam is the gateway to Mount Kilimanjaro, the Serengeti or Zanzibar, there are appealing destinations closer to the city. Try the readily accessible beaches to the north and south of Dar es Salaam, climb into the tropical forest around Pugu Hills or make the short hop to one of the outlying islands. History : In 1859, a German was the first European to land in Mzizima ("healthy town"), the former name for Dar es Salaam, In 1866 Sultan Seyyid Majid of Zanzibar gave it its present name, an Arabic phrase meaning Haven of Peace. Following Majids death in 1870, Dar es Salaam fell into decline but was rejunvenated when the German East Africa Company established a trading station there in1887 overthrowing the Arabic rulers and colonizing the East Africa coast. The city grew as it became the administrative and commercial centre of German East Africa, before being made its capital. During WWI, German East Africa was captured by the British and was given a new name - Tanganyika. After WWII, Tanganyika grew rapidly and attained iindependence in 1961. Dar es Salaam continued to serve as Tanzania's capital until it was relocated in 1973 to Dodoma. German historical influences are still visible in the city and Dar es Salaam is an important city for both business and government. Weather: Best time to visit -Dar es Salaams climate is tropical, with hot weather + high humidity all year round. Humidity peaks in March + April. The rainiest months are April and May; theres also a fair amount of rainfall in October and Nov. As the city has a high proportion of Muslim residents, some restaurants are closed during the day during Ramadan. See latest weather updates/forecasts here: http://www.worldtravelguide.net/dar-es-salaam/weather

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Getting around Dar es Salaam

Public transport: For short journeys within Dar es Salaam, theres a choice between 30-seater Coaster' buses or dalladallas. Both types run when full and can be awkward to try and board with luggage. Dalla-dallas (smaller minibuses) are cheap but can be unsafe, as drivers race each other to pick-up points to collect new passengers. The names of the first and last stop are shown in the front window or hollered out by the driver's assistant, who also collects the fares. Main terminals include New Posta in front of the main post office on Maktaba Street, Kariakoo on Msimbazi Street, Kivukoni on Kivukoni Front and Stesheni on Algeria Street, near to the Central Line train station. Taxis: Taxis are distinguished by their white number plates. Fares are not fixed or metered so you must negotiate the best deal before setting off. Taxi ranks can be found throughout the city, usually in front of larger hotels, bars, clubs, restaurants or landmark buildings. Shared taxis are relatively rare. Driving: Most companies insist that you hire a 4-wheel drive vehicle if driving outside the city. However, unless you are familiar with driving in East Africa, it is unusual to take a self-drive tour: most people hire a driver or join an organised safari. Tanzanians drive on the left. The speed limit is 80kph (50mph) unless otherwise shown. Drivers and front-seat passengers must wear seat belts. Car hire: There are a handful of car hire agencies in Dar, including Avis on Ohio Street (tel: (022) 211 5381 www.avis.com), Green Car Rentals on Nkrumah Street (tel: (022) 218 2022) and Hertz on Ohio Street (tel: (022) 212 2130 www.hertz.com). Bicycle hire: Main sealed roads are not good for cycling, as it can be very dangerous. Many of the secondary roads are safer though. Mountain bikes are virtually essential and should be brought from home as hired bikes tend to be of poor quality. Bicycle Africa (www.ibike.org/bikeafrica) organises cycling tours throughout Tanzania

Things to see in Dar es Salaam

Tanzania Tourist Board IPS Building, PO Box 2485, Dar es Salaam Tel: (022) 211 1244, www.tanzaniatouristboard.com 1. Askari Monument: The bronze Askari Monument is dedicated to Africans killed during WWI. Rudyard Kipling, the famous British writer and poet wrote the inscription that appears in English and Swahili. Admission Fees: No; Disabled Access: No; Unesco: No. 2. Azania Front Lutheran Church: The remarkable, red-roofed Azania Front Lutheran Church was built by German missionaries in 1898 and has gained popularity as a major place for worship for the local Christian community. The whitewashed facades, tiled canopies and beautiful garden face the harbour. Admission Fees: No; Disabled Access: Yes; 3. Botanical Gardens: These leafy, tranquil gardens, which date from the German colonial era, offer a haven of peace from the maelstrom of central Dar es Salaam. Numerous types of attractive palms and ferns flourish here, whilst peacocks can be found roaming the grounds. Admission Fees: No; Samora Avenue, Dar es Salaam, 4. Msasani Peninsula: To the north of the city centre lies the Msasani Peninsula, on the western side of which is an attractive, lively Msasani fishing village, which is thought to stand on the site of one of East Africa's oldest coastal Arabic settlements. Further west along Msasani Bay are a series of 17th-century ruins that are thought to be Dar es Salaam's oldest graveyard. Admission Fees: No; Disabled Access: Yes; Unesco: No;

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5. National Museum and House of Culture: Formerly the National Museum, close to the Botanic Gardens, has been transformed to help showcase the countrys cultural heritage. It still retains famous fossil discoveries made by Leakey in Olduvai Gorge, including the well-known Nutcracker Man.' There is a further assortment of historical displays on regional civilisations, the development of the slave trade and the German and British colonial periods. Admission Fees: Yes; Shaaban Robert Street, Dar es Salaam. Tel: (022) 211 7508; www.houseofculture.or.tz 6. Nyumba Ya Sanaa (Nyerere Cultural Centre): The 'House of Arts' as it is also known is a handicraft centre where young artisans congregate to work, display and sell their wares. Jewellery, textiles, pottery, etchings, paintings and carvings are all on display and available at very reasonable rates. There's also the chance to participate in some of the craft work. The centre lays on traditional dance performances at the weekends, when there is a bar and small restaurant open too. Admission Fees: No; Ohio Street, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania; Tel: (022) 213 1727. 7. St Josephs Cathedral: The cathedral contains original German inscriptions from 1897, the year it was built, as well as various bits of artwork. Admission Fees: No; Sokoine Drive, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania 8. Village Museum: This open-air museum, situated 10km (6 miles) north of the city centre, features a collection of 19 authentically reconstructed dwellings that show traditional ways of living from throughout Tanzania. The museum also lays on traditional dance and music performances during the afternoons. Admission Fees: Yes; New Bagamayo Road at Makaburi Street, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania; Tel: (022) 270 0437

Dar es Salaam tours + excursions

Walking tours: There aren't all that many tourist destinations of note in central Dar es Salaam, but the city does have lots of attractive historical buildings and architectural sights, which can easily be explored on a walking tour. Monuments and buildings of note include the bronze Askari Monument at the intersection of Samora Avenue and Azikiwe Street, dedicated to Africans killed during WWI, and the Botanic Gardens on Samora Avenue. Also worth seeing are the defunct Ocean Road Hospital with its Moorish influenced architecture, the small white-domed Ocean Road Cancer Hospital where Robert Koch carried out his ground-breaking research into malaria, the remarkable, red-roofed Azania Front Lutheran Church on the corner of Sokoine Drive and Azikiwe Street and St Joseph's Cathedral on the corner of Sokoine Drive and Bridge Street, containing original German inscriptions from the time it was built (1897) and various artworks. Dar es Salaam also has a surprisingly large amount of bird life, particularly outside the immediate centre. The Wildlife Conservation Society of Tanzania on Garden Street organises free bird walks every week that last several hours. See http://www.wcs.org/where-we-work/africa/tanzania.aspx
Dar es Salaam and around source: Rough Guide 2010 From a moribund settlement of 3000 people little over a century ago, Dar es Salaam (Dar for short) has grown into East Africas largest metropolis, with almost 4m inhabitants, over 70% of whom make do without electricity, running water or basic sanitation. Their nickname for the city is Bongo meaning brain or win these being whats needed to survive. Despite the realities of urban poverty, the city is a likeable place, friendly and easy-going, having managed to absorb immigrants from all around the country, and beyond, without ever completely alienating them or their cultures. On the pot-holed pavements, in buzzing markets and smoke-belching daladalas, youll see Swahili women dressed in shrouding black buibuis, Indian women in billowing sarees, broad-shouldered big ladies showing off the latest kanga designs, Muslims in white gowns and caps, Maasai medicine men wearing car-tyre sandals and red shuka gowns, redfaced expats donning shorts and briefcases, smart businessmen, seedy touts, lamentable beggars, even Catholic nuns. Dar is very much the melting pot of the old clich, where wooden dhows bob alongside freighters and oil tankers in the harbour, and delicate architectural gems from colonial times huddle in the shadows of blue-glass high-rises; a place where gluttonous 4WDs share the fume-filled streets with hand-cranked tricycles ridden by polio victims. In short, a scruffy maelstrom for the senses.

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For most travellers, Dar is just a stepping stone to Zanzibar or southern Tanzania, but it does boast a modest collection of museums, and, better yet, a vibrant music and arts scene. If you choose to stick around, there are several outlying attractions to explore, including decent beaches, a couple of islands, good scuba diving, medieval ruins at Kunduchi, plus a community tourism-based project at Gezaulole, and hikes in the Pengu Hills. Some history Dar es Salaam dates from 1862, when Zanzibars Sultan Seyyid Majid chose the Zaramo fishing village of Mzizima as the site for a new summer palace, which, he hoped, would replace Stone Town as capital of the Busaidi dynasty. The location was ideal: its fine natural harbour was perfectly placed to exploit the flourishing trade in ivory and slaves; and unlike Bagamoyo and Kilwa Kivinje, whose caravans were routinely pillaged and disrupted, Dar was untroubled by warlike neighbours. Sultan Majid named the place Bandar es Salaam the Peaceful Harbour. By 1867, Majids palace was sufficiently complete to host a lavish banquet in honour of European and American consuls, whose economic and military might the Sultan unwisely courted. Hadhramaut Arabs from Yemen were invited to develop coconut plantations in the hinterland, and with the arrival of Indian merchants, the fledgling city seemed set to flourish. The sultan however, died before his plans could be realised (ironically, breaking his neck in his new palace) and his new successor, Sultan Barghash, showed no interest in the project whatsoever, particularly after the British forced him to prohibit the sea-borne slave trade in 1873, and the mainland slave trade three years later. With little economic raison detre left, the dhows and caravans returned to Kilwa and Bagamoyo, and Dar returned to being a fishing village, albeit one with a palace. So it remained until 1887, when the Deutsch-Ostafrikanische Gesellschaft the commercial front for Germanys colonial effort established a station here, and swiftly asserted their authority by torching Majids palace. In 1891, with the German conquest in full and bloody swing, the capital of German East Africa was transferred from troublesome Bagamoyo to Dar, and the construction of the city began in earnest. Benedictine and Lutheran missionaries were among the first on the scene, their churches serving as bases for the spiritual conquest of the natives. Dar es Salaams economic importance was sealed by the Mittelland Bahn now the Central Line railway - which facilitated commerce with Central Africa via Lake Tanganyika and, after WWI, via Lake Victoria too. Following the war, the British took over Tanganyika. Retaining Dar as their commercial and administrative centre, they divided it into three racially segregated zones. Uzunguni in the east was for Europeans and benefited from tree lined avenues, stone buildings, a hospital, a botanical garden inherited from the Germans, and other amenities. The more compact Uhindini area in the centre was reserved for Asian coolies brought in by the British to construct the new colony; the shops and businesses of their descendants still form the citys commercial heart. Lastly, Uswahilini to the west, was left to Africans, who were deprived of even the most basic facilities. As the city and its African population grew, so did social and political awareness. The Tanganyika African Association, an ethnically diverse welfare agency and social club, was founded in Dar in 1927 to advocate the betterment of the African lot. Spreading to rural communities, it eventually merged with the Tanganyika African National Union (TANU) to become the driving force behind the push for independence. Throughout this period, the city expanded relentlessly and following independence in 1961 became the capital of Tanganyika and subsequently, Tanzania. Alas, President Nyereres well-meant but economically disastrous Ujamaa policy effectively bankrupted the city, which also lost its capital status to Dodoma in 1973. Two decades of stagnation followed before the effects of economic liberalisation finally kicked in. These days, with the economy booming, Dar is undergoing the biggest building spree in its history, with blue-glass high-rises shooting up all over the place, even in the poorest districts. But for all the construction work and shiny new motors choking the streets, poverty remains a daily reality for the great majority and with more people migrating to the city each year, the challenges are enormous. It may take ten, 20 or 30 years for the economic benefits of current policies to filter through but if history be a guide, Dars resilient sense of community will continue to hold everything together. Especially with a generous dose of bongo... Avoiding trouble Although Dar is relatively safe, do keep your bongo (wits) about you, especially if youre new to Tanzania. You should be on your guard for thieves in crowded markets and transport terminals, and dont go walking around at night unless youre absolutely sure the area is safe (the general rule is the more people, traffic and lights there are around, the less the risk). Walking by day, even in crowded suburbs, poses no problem so long as youre not visibly nervous, or carrying anything that looks valuable. The exceptions are the beach running alongside Ocean Road and parts of Coco Beach where you should take care if there arent many people around. ______ Daladala terminals Daladala terminals are called stands, or stendi. Central terminals: Kariakoo various stops along and off Msimbazi Street, between Mkunguni Street and Uhuru Street, 3km west of the city centre. Daladalas that start on Msimbazi Street itself head all over the city. Vehicles to

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Mwenge and Msasani congregate at the north end of Kariakoo market on Mkunguni Street. One block west are daladalas to Tegeta, close to the northern beaches. Tivukoni east end of Kivukoni Front. Mainly for getting to and from Kigamboni ferry for the southern beaches. Has services to/from Posta Zamani, Stesheni and further west and south. Mnazi Mmoja Uhuru Street as it crosses Mnazi Mmoja Grounds. Westbound services to Ilala, TAZARA and the airport most of which pass via Kariakoo. Peacock Bibi Titi Mohamed Road, facing Peacock Hotel, Posta-Ubongo and Posta-Mwenge daladalas pass here. Posta comprises two places: Posta Mpya (new Post Office) along Maktaba Street (mainly for dropping off) and at the streets southern end along the harbour, Posta Zamani (old Post Office) serving most destinations. Stesheni one block east of Central Line train station. Mainly southbound, including Kilwa Road (Mgulani) and Temeke. ______ Districts Kariakoo Over the last decade, the former mud and thatch district of Kariakoo sprawling westwards from Mnazi Mmoja Grounds, has been utterly transformed by mushrooming high-rises. Many of them are hotels, most of them rather dingy and overpriced. Check rooms first as new buildings sprouting next door can turn bright and breezy rooms into hot and dark cells. If youre staying close to a mosque listen out for the haunting ethereal dhikri chants early in the morning. Kariakoo is not safe to walk around in at night, or with valuables by day. Msasani Peninsula and Kawe Beach The plush suburbs on Msasani Peninsula, 6km north of the centre, contain mostly upmarket hotels and well to do restaurants, bars and clubs. Its actually illegal to build on the seaward side of the shoreline road, not that youd ever guess. Most of the shoreline is rocky. Taxis charge Tsh 8,000 12,000 from the city centre or Tsh35,000 from the airports. For a proper beach head to the Mediterraneo on Kawe Beach, 10km from the centre. Mikadi Beach Just south of the city is a popular stop for truck tours. There are fewer dazed wazungu at Mjimwema, 5km further on which is calmer and more intimate. _____ City districts Dar es Salaam is a patchwork of influences but one with an underlying motif: the British apartheid divisions of Uzunguni (European area), Uhindini (Indian area) and Uswahilini (Swahili area). Although the names are no longer in use, the racial stamp is still apparent in the architecture and feel of each zone, and its those contrasting flavours that provide the citys main interest, since conventional tourist attractions are thin on the ground. For a birds-eye view of the whole thing, take an elevator up to the 21st floor of Benjamin Mkapa Pension Towers on Maktaba Street (no roof access though). Kisutu and Mchafukoge Historically, the citys commercial heart a square km bounded by Bibi Titi Mohamed Road, Samora Avenue and Maktaba / Azikiwe Street was Uhindini, the area reserved by the British for Indian coolies (manual labourers) shipped in to construct the city. Nowadays split into Kisutu and Mchafukoge, it remains a hive of activity, with hundreds of stores selling almost anything you might need from motor parts to tea rooms and sweet shops. Here, you arent allowed inside mosques but other communities will happily show you around their temples, start on the recently named Pramukh Swami Street, better known as Kisutu Street. This street is also a great place to sample Indian sweets and other Indian exports. Dont miss the atmospheric if insalubrious little Kisutu Market (daily 8am5pm) on Bibi Titi Mohamed Road, a gentler introduction to African market life thank Kariakoo further west. Stalls sell fruit and veg, honey, beans and pulses, squawking chickens, dried fish and pungent herbs. Kariakoo West of Kisutu and Mchafukoge, beyond the grassy Mnazi Mmoja Grounds lies Kariakoo at the heart of what the British called Uswahilini (Swahili area). Chaotic, potentially disorienting and definitely dangerous to walk around in at night, its also by far the city centres liveliest and most stimulating district. Rapidly changing: barely a decade ago the districts characteristic mud-walled Swahili houses were touted as an attraction by the tourist board. Not any more, its a jungle of high-rises. Poverty remains evident everywhere. Kariakoo exudes a solid sense of community that manages to combine both tribal and religious identities. In many ways, the district is a microcosm of the country, so its fitting it plays host to Kariakoo Market (daily sunrise-sunset) occupying the site of the Carrier Corps barracks

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under a bizarre roof resembling a forest of upturned parasols. Maze of shops and stalls youll find everything here (from sea, land or factory) all foods, spices, handicrafts, Kilimanjaro coffee, textiles, local brews (pombe), toys, etc. Youll also see Maasai both men and women selling herbs potions and powders. Beware against pickpockets. Dont walk around here after dusk. Join the locals at the famous DDC Kariakoo Social Hall on Muhonda Street. Tanzanias oldest African bar, it also serves up a wide range of cheap and tasty Tanzanian dishes, before on Tuesdays, Saturdays and especially Sundays turning into one of Dars best-loved live music venues. Kivukoni With much of the rest of Dar disappearing under concrete and steel, the citys best -preserved district is the former European area, Uzunguni, between the Asian area and the shore. With its broad tree-lined streets, gardens, imposing yet delicate colonial-era structures, a hint of sea breeze, and not that many people, Kivukoni as the area is now known comes as quite a change. As you might expect, its still the administrative centre, and includes State House, home to the Tanzanian president. Apart from some lovely wood-balconied buildings, the colonial presence is recalled by the Askari Monument along Samora Avenue. Designed by James Alexander Stevenson, the bronze statue depicts an African askari advancing, rifle ready, in honour of Carrier Corps porters who lost their lives in WWI, and replaced a statue of Hermann von Wissmann, the German explorer, soldier and governor. Dars first buildings erected during Sultan Majids rule in the 1860s faced the harbour. Most have long since disappeared. Now youll see the nearby St Josephs Metropolitan Cathedral consecrated in 1897, a major city landmark and a good place to experience Dars church music, kwaya, best heard during Sunday Mass. The cathedral is notable for its twin confessionals, one in Baroque style the other in Gothic. The competing Azania Front Lutheran Church, 200m east is unmissable thanks to its fancy Rhineland-style tower. It also has a kwaya, rivalling that of St Josephs. Kivukoni fish market and Ocean Road Heading east along the harbour, Kivukoni Front leads past a number of graceful German buildings, most adorned with wooden Indian-style balconies, which are nowadays occupied by government ministries and offices. At the eastern end youll find the ferry terminal for Kigamboni and almost opposite, Kivukoni Fish Market (youll smell it!). The best place in Dar for seafood with red snapper, kingfish, barracuda, squid, crab, lobster and prawns all available if you arrive early in the morning. Plenty of women are on hand to work magic over wide frying pans or put their muscle into huge pots of ugali and cassava porridge. Fruit and veg stalls on other side of road with more street food and many seashells and marine curios dont buy them, the export of many of these is illegal. Beach starts just north of fish market (but waters can be polluted). Nearest clean water stretches are: Mikadi and Mjimwema (south) or Coco Beach on Msasani Peninsula (north). Heading up Ocean Road from Kivukoni, the big white guarded building on your left is State House. Built by Germans, now houses President. No photos. 500m along youll find Ocean Road Cancer Hospital built in 1886 as the German Malaria Research Laboratory (where Robert Koch, who in 1905 was awarded a Nobel Laureate for his discovery of tuberculin, wrongly believed to be cure for TB, developed the standard laboratory method for preparing pure bacterial strains, the Koch Method). He went on to discover that flea-infested rats were responsible for the bubonic plague, and that the tsetse fly was the vector for sleeping sickness. National Museum & Botanical Gardens Five mins walk SW from Cancer Hospital is Tanzanias National Museum on Shaaban Robert Street (daily 9.30am6pm; Tsh 6,500, photography 13,000). See http://www.houseofculture.or.tz/ Established in 1940 as the King George V Memorial Museum, its quite a happening place the se days, and well worth visiting. Starting at the beginning, the Hall of Man traces human evolution (the Rift Valley being, as far as we know, the Cradle of Mankind). Highlights include a cast of Ngorongoros Laetoli footprints which showed our ancesto rs were walking upright way before anyone had imagined and fossilized skulls from Oldupai Gorge and elsewhere. The History Room covers a bit of everything: explorers, wars, revolts, slave trade, Independence, and original Uhuru Torch planted atop Kilimanjaro in Dec 1961, etc. Biology Hall, House of Culture and Botanical Gardens. Msasani Peninsula and Kawe Beach 6km north of city, the address of choice for diplomats, civil servants, NGOs and otherwise rich, privileged or corrupt. Upmarket hotels, restaurants scattered all over. Coco Beach is the exception, being a favourite spot among ordinary Tanzanians. Oyster Bay Shopping Centre. Aim for Coco Beach Bar. Waters clean enough for swimming at high tide at Coco Beach. Kawe Beach is smoother underfoot, beach bars scattered along. For a more private stretch of sand head for Mediterraneo Hotel, north end of Kawe. Mikadi and Mjimwema beaches Dars nicest beaches, just a few km south of the city. Somehow both have eluded a tidal wave of development and offer quite a meditative experience: perfect if youre after peace and quiet but not so great if you want to do stuff. ______

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Excursions from Dar es Salaam

Source: WTG 1. Dar es Salaam Marine Reserve Just off the coast are the islands of Bongoyo, Mbudya, Pangavini and Fungu Yasini, part of the Dar es Salaam Marine Reserve. Bongoyo, 7km (4.5 miles) north of Dar es Salaam, and Mbudya, 4km (2.5 miles) further up the coast, are the most frequently visited, with good beaches, swimming and snorkelling. www.marineparktz.com 2. Pugu Hills The are 15km (9 miles) southwest of Dar es Salaam. These lightly wooded forest reserves make ideal day or overnight trips from Dar es Salaam. These rare stands of coastal monsoon forest offer a stark contrast to the city. Accom can be found at Pugu Hills Nature Centre. Short hiking trails + viewpoints overlooking the city are nearby, www.puguhills.com

Shopping in Dar
Shopping in Dar es Salaam is a lot of fun, with plenty of souvenirs to pick up in local markets. Key areas: The local artists' co-operative Nyumba ya Sanaa (Nyerere Cultural Centre) on Ohio Street sells good-quality textiles and regional crafts; you can watch the artisans at work here. Wood-carvings and paintings can also be bought from the Mawazo Art Gallery in the YMCA grounds on Upanga Road. Vibrantly colourful Tingatinga paintings, as first marketed by Edward Said Tingatinga, can be bought from the Tingatinga Centre on Haile Selassie Road. Artists can also be seen working on projects here. Markets: Local-style markets worth visiting include Ilala Market on Uhuru Street or the sprawling Kariakoo Market on Msimbazi and Mkunguni Streets. Take a local guide, leave all valuables behind and watch out for pickpockets. Kariakoo Market in the citys most distinctively African quarter, west of the centre, is this lively and colourful daily covered market offering a riot of stalls selling pungent produce, spices, cooked meat, textiles and homewares. Handicrafts are available from the Msasani Slipway Weekend Craft Market, which is calmer and has better-quality goods than elsewhere in town. The Mwenge Carvers' Market on Sam Nujoma Road is full of stalls and craftsmen at work

Restaurants in Dar
Restaurants are grouped into four categories (for a three course meal for one without drinks):
$$$$ (over TSh 5,000) $$$ (TSh 2,500 to TSh 5,000) $$ (TSh 1,000 to TSh 2,500) $ (up to TSh 1,000)

Addis in Dar - expensive

This traditionally decorated, atmospheric Ethiopian restaurant serves customary East African dishes such as injera, flatbread with a variety of spicy sauces to share, as well as a host of vegetarian options. 35 Ursino Street, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania; tel: 0741 266 299.

Alcove - expensive
A diverse menu of Chinese and Indian food is available in attractive surrounds from this popular, central and long-running restaurant. Samora Avenue, Dar es Salaam; tel: (022) 213 8449.

Sawasdee - expensive
Rooftop restaurant specalising in Thai cuisine on the ninth floor of the New Africa Hotel (and casino). Superb harbour + sea views and a decent wine list to accompany it all. Evenings only. Azikiwe Street / Sokoine Drive, Dar es Salaam; tel: (022) 211 2495, www.newafricahotel.com see Sawasdee menu here (eg tod mun pla starter is 5). ~ also at the New Africa Hotel is the Bandari Grill (Indian) Bandari menu here.

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Chef's Pride - moderate

This long-standing and justifiably popular haunt has a sizeable menu offering everything from local fare to Indian, Chinese and vegetarian dishes. Portions are generous and the prices reasonable. Chagga Street, Dar es Salaam;

pi d'Or - cheap
This Lebanese caf-cum-bakery sells cakes, pastries and a variety of breads in addition to light breakfast, brunch or lunch snacks and Middle Eastern influenced food such as fresh salads, houmous and baba ghanoush. Samora Avenue, Dar es Salaam; tel: (022) 213 6006.

_______ Nightlife: Dar es Salaam isnt overly blessed with cafes or bars, yet the city remains the musical centre of East Africa, with a number of great nightspots that get going after 2300 and run through the night. Bars - Cynics Caf & Wine Bar: serves juices + coffees in addition to alcoholic drinks. Corner of Ohio Street and Upanga Road - Garden Bistro: This watering hole hosts DJS and live bands at weekends. Haile Selassie Road - Q-Bar: popular with locals, expats + tourists alike.Laid-back vibe. Corner of Haile Selassie + Massani Roads, Msasani Peninsula; www.qbardar.com - The Slipway: pleasant spot for eating + drinking. Has four restaurants Mashua Bar serving pizza, Japanese-inspired fresh fish at Azuma, Italian-style Terrace + Capt Alis pub. Msasani Peninsula, tel: (022) 260 0893. www.slipway.net Clubs - Amana Club: The best venues include the well-established Amana Club. Uhuru Street - Bilicanas: Nightclubs include the perennially popular, brash Bilicanas which also plays live music. Simu Street Live Music - Mango Garden: Live bands play every Saturday night after 2100. Mwinyijuma Road Culture - Nyumba Ya Sanaa (Nyerere Cultural Centre): Traditional music + dance displays at Nyumba Ya Sanaa. Ohio Street; Tel: (022) 213 1727. - The Little Theatre: near Oyster Bay, Dar es Salaam's only theatre + stages regular monthly productions. Haile Selassie Road, Tel: 0748 277 388. - Village Museum: features traditional drumming displays + dance performances from individual tribes. Corner of New Bagamayo Road and Makaburi Street, Tel: (022) 270 0437

Travelling to Dar es Salaam

Travel by road Summary: Only around 20% of Tanzania's roads have tarmac, including those between Dar es Salaam and Arusha, and Dar es Salaam and Mbeya. Coaches: Dars main bus terminal is at Ubungo, 8km (5 miles) west of the city on Morogoro Road. Prices are usually fixed and should always be bought from the office, never from a tout. Recommended bus companies include Dar Express (tel: 0748 276 060) and Royal Coach (tel: (022) 212 4073). The bus company Scandinavian Express (tel: (022) 218 4833; www.scandinaviagroup.com operates its own terminal and ticket office on the corner of Msimbazi Street and Nyerere Road, which is quieter and closer to the centre than Ubungo. They also sell tickets online. They operate daily international bus services to Dar es Salaam from Nairobi, Arusha and Mombasa in Kenya; Kampala in Uganda and Lusaka in Zambia. 31

Express buses are quicker, less crowded and run according to a schedule. Some have air conditioning and toilets on board. Ordinary buses are more congested, slower and leave when full. Travel by rail Tanzania has two main stations. Tazara Station, on the corner of Nyerere and Nelson Mandela Roads (tel: (022) 286 0344), is around 6km (4 miles) southwest of the city centre. The Tanzanian Railway Corporation's Central Line station, on the corner of Railway Street and Sokoine Drive ( tel: (022) 211 7833), is more central. Operators: - Tazara links Dar es Salaam to cities in the southwest and to Zambia - The Tanzanian Railway Corporation connects Dar es Salaam to Kigoma, Mwanza, Dodoma and Tabora.
Tazara is generally more comfortable, but both operators are prone to long delays and breakdowns.

Travel over water Summary: Ferries run daily from Zanzibar and Pemba to the Dar es Salaam Ferry Terminal on Sokoine Drive. Tickets can be bought from the office at each terminal. There are several fast' services and one slower one. Dhows also ply these routes although officially foreigners are prohibited from catching non-motorised dhows and boat captains are subject to heavy fines if caught. There are two types of dhow. Jahazi are large, lateen-sailed boats, whilst mashua are similar, but smaller and therefore have proportionally wider hulls and usually a motor. Transport to the city: Dalla-dallas (minibuses) run regularly past the ferry terminal. Its not far to walk to city centre.

Hotels in Dar es Salaam

Hotels are grouped into 3 categories (rates are pp in a double room incl taxes but not breakfast):
Luxury: over TSh 65,000 to TSh 200,000 Moderate: TSh 12,500 to TSh 64,999 Cheap: up to TSh 12,500

Movenpick Royal Palm Hotel - luxury

(022) 211 2416. www.movenpick-hotels.com/ Dar es Salaam's most upmarket hotel is centrally located in pleasant, leafy grounds. It has most amenities, including a large swimming pool, fitness and business centres, several restaurants and a caf. Luxurious rooms are comfortable and service is exemplary. Ohio Street, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania

Peacock Hotel - moderate (022) 212 0334 or 211 4071. www.peacock-hotel.co.tz A central hotel that mainly caters to businessmen, this building is ugly to look at, but the staff is friendly and the hotel has all the facilities you would expect of a mid-range hotel, including a restaurant and caf. Bibi Titi Mohamed Road, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania nb. arranges airport transfers @ USD $30 1-way or SD $60 2-ways

TANZANIA EXECUTIVE SUITES moderate (c/o hotels.com) - 59 per room, night of 29th March 2013 (requested early check in with Ghulam Mustafa Mundrawala, as of 12 Jan ). Google map http://goo.gl/maps/179pU (map in rear Maps section)
#1 for families + #3 overall out of 61 hotels in Dar on TripAdvisor... one of most prominent hotels in Tanzania. It is located in Downtown, Dar es Salaam, the business hub of the city and one of the most culturally diverse locations, with the airport just 15 mins, ferry terminal just 3 mins, 7 major banks under 10 mins + many restaurants less than 5 mins away.

Four types of accom, namely *Studio room, Exec Room, etc. Hotel has gym, Jacuzzi + sauna - all guests get complimentary access. Free wi-fi throughout hotel. TEL: (0)22 212 7277
Location/directions: 6 miles from airport, come on the Morogoro Road. Its at inter-section of Mali Street and Morogoro Road. Opposite the hotel, on Morogoro Road side, is the METL head office. To the side of the hotel, on Morogoro Road is an electrical store, furnished with a large sign of TRONIC logo. The the back side of the hotel is the street known as Indira Gandhi Street (v popular). PO Box 64, Mali St Morogoro Rd, Dar es Salaam, 64;

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* Studio room - 24 sqm in size, 1 x King Size Bed

Laundry Facilities, Tea/Coffee Making, TV, Iron/Ironing board, Room Safe, Linen + Towels Provided, Fridge Bar, Fridge, Hairdryer, Cots Available, Room Service, Bath, Oven, Wireless Internet, Air conditioned, Microwave, Telephone, Toaster, Daily Room Service, Shower - separate, Mini Bar, Cable/Satellite TV, Ceiling Fans

Ts&Cs: We shall charge amount equal to one-nights stay, 2 days before the date of check-in. Rest payable on arrival. Cancellation free up to 2 days of date of check-in. If a booking is cancelled within 2 days of date of check-in, cancellation charge equals one-nights stay.

Studio room

Hotel Sapphire - 61 per night 3* Trip Advisor info here

Close to University of Dar es Salaam, Dar es Salaam Intl Conference Centre, and Askari Monument. Also nearby are St Joseph's Cathedral and Atiman House. 6 miles from airport. Hotel Features: Dining options: restaurant + bar/lounge. Fitness facility, 24-hour room service, and currency exchange. For a surcharge, 63 guestrooms incl coffee/tea makers. Complimentary wi-fi provided. Rooms have LCD TVs with cable channels and DVD players, in-room microwaves and refrigerators provided. Plot No 4 Mtendeni Street, Dar Es Salaam, PO Box 20009 - http://www.hotelsapphiretz.com

Sapphire Court hotel - 17 per room per night!

Luxury (!reasonable but not luxury) Sapphire Court offers exclusive services to guests. Interior: blend of Arabic + Swahili cultures. Business district, access to shopping and cultural diversions, just 15 mins drive (6 miles) from airport. Sikukuu / Lindi Street, Kariakoo Area, P.O.Box 8064, Dar es Salaam. Tel: +255 22 2181834 / 2181845; Hotline: +255 657 666664; e: info@sapphirecourthotel.com

For airport hotels see airport section YMCA - cheap

(022) 213 5457. Basic dorm rooms with shared bathrooms at reasonable rates are available in this simple hostel. Rooms come with mosquito nets and there is a canteen on the premises. Just around the corner on Maktaba Street is the marginally noisier YWCA. Upanga Road, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania

Safari Inn - cheap

(022) 211 9104. Very popular with travellers, this cheap and cheerful place set down an alley on the western edge of Dar es Salaam is a good bet for those on a budget. Rooms have fans rather than air conditioning and are sprayed with insecticide every evening. Libya Street, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania

Q Bar and Guest House - cheap

(022) 260 2150. North of the city centre, towards Msasani Peninsula, this good-value venue has substantial, spotless rooms in addition to a four-bed budget dorm. There is a dining room where food is available and a lively bar that occasionally hosts live music. Corner Haile Selassie Road at Msasani Road, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania ~ Dar travel guide source: http://www.worldtravelguide.net/dar-es-salaam

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17. Mwanza + Lake Victoria

3pm fastjet flight Dar to Mwanza arr: 4.30pm (41 total for 2 flights). Go Talapia + meet H.
Mwanza accom
Tilapia - beautiful location on banks of lake, really nice bars, restaurants and a pool area. It is pretty funky, a bit quirky, good vibe. Aside from the regular hotel accom you have the option of getting a cabin on a house boat which famously was in the movie African Queen with Humphrey Bogart and Katherine Hepburn. Advertised price is $110 (approx 70) for a double, although could prob get it cheaper. Facilities incl free wi-fi, pool, http://www.mwanza-guide.com/hotel/tilapia/rooms.htm
G &G is Tsh 40,000 a night (c. 16). Ok as a base or transit hotel, but not a great location. http://www.mwanza-guide.com/hotel/GGhotel/rooms.htm Ryan's Bay - on banks of lake, rooms are amazing. Has everything you could want. Advertised price is $135 (c.90) for a double. Could prob get it cheaper, as I paid $20 or $30 less than advertised price. Nice + comfortable but lacks the soul that Tilapia has. Drinks cheaper at Tilapia! http://www.mwanza-guide.com/hotel/ryan/room.htm

Hotel Talapia luxury lake-facing hotel Hotel Tilapia Mwanzas most luxurious hotel, offers 40 well maintained a/c rooms with amenities including free internet connectivity, colour TV, telephone, mini-bar, in-room safe, water cooker for tea & coffee and a refrigerator. There are three bars, four restaurants, a poolside barbeque and a coffee shop. There is a swimming pool - and a beautiful garden. You can enjoy your deliciously prepared meals on your terrace overlooking the specula view of Mwanza Harbour and Lake Victoria as well. Business travellers will find a fully equipped conference room (max. 30 persons) and a centre with facilities of fax, internet access and photocopying services. Lake Victoria / Mwanza highlights 1. Lake Victoria The worlds second largest freshwater
lake is also the fabled source of the Nile, an enigma that baffled Europeans until Speke stumbled upon it in 1858.

by Rough Guide 4. Bukoba a pleasant port town connected to

Mwanza by ferry and by road to Uganda and Rwanda. Lovely beach, laid back feel, lots of cultural activities.

2. Sukuma Village Museum at Bujora near Mwanza, a

great place for getting to know the Sukuma, Tanzanias largest tribe, and seeing their annual dance competitions.

3. Ukerewe and Ukara long inhabited + heavily

agricultural, these lake islands are way off the beaten track + ideal for getting a feel for an existence largely untouched by the C. 21st

5. Rubondo Island Sitting in the lakes SW corner, its difficult (or expensive) access is compensated for by a host of endangered animals and breeding bird colonies.

Lake Victoria & northwestern Tanzania an intro Dominating Tanzanias northwest is Lake Victoria (Lake Nyanza) which fills a shallow depression between the Western and Eastern Rift Valleys. Covering an area of 69,484 square kilometres, and with a shoreline of 3220 km, the lake is Africas largest, and the worlds second largest freshwater lake. Its also the River Niles primary source, providing it with a steady, year-round flow.

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The lake region is densely inhabited by farmers and cattle herders, and also by people living in the major cities on its shores, including Kampala and Jinja in Uganda, Kisumu in Kenya, and Mwanza, Bukoba and Musoma on the Tanzanian side. Bukoba is a great base for exploring the previously virtually inaccessible northern reaches of Kagera Region bordering Uganda and Rwanda. Several islands also warrant exploration, notably Ukerewe and Ukara between Mwanza and Musoma, and Rubondo Island in the lakes southwest corner its diverse birdlife includes elephants, chimpanzees and sitatunga antelopes and it is protected as a national park. The most enjoyable way of getting to, and around the region is on one of Lake Victorias ferries (from Mwanza to Bukoba or Ukerewe Island), or by train from Dar and Tabora. But while the regions trunk roads have improved massively, cutting driving times from Arusha to under a day, unsurfaced roads can still become impassable during heavy rains, and getting off the beaten track by public transport can be an interesting experience to say the least, one thats definitely not recommended with old bones or claustrophobia: daladalas and buses really pack em in. Renting a car is of course another option. Whichever way you travel, youll need plenty of time. Lake Victorias troubled waters
Just over a century ago, Lake Victoria contained of the richest freshwater ecosystems on earth, with an estimated 500 species of fish including many brilliantly coloured cichlids. Today, only 200 remain, the rest having vanished in the biggest mass extinction of vertebrates since the demise of the dinosaurs, while the lake itself is being systematically polluted, starved of oxygen and invaded by water hyacinth all of which offers a bleak prospect for the thirty million people who depend on it for survival. The alarming collapse of Lake Victorias ecosystem can be traced back to the arrival of railways in colonial times and subsequent development of lakeside cities such as Mwanza (Tanzania), Kisumu (Kenya) and Kampala (Uganda) which began to place unsustainable pressure on the lakes resources. The Europeans also started commercial fishing, which rapidly depleted traditional fish stocks; by the 1950s catches of the two main edible species of tilapia fish had fallen to uneconomic levels. In a bid to find an alternative, moves were made to introduce non-native Nile perch (mbuta) into the lake. It was hoped that its size (up to 250kg) and carnivorous habits would convert smaller and commercially worthless cichlid species into profitable dinner-table protein. Scientists, who correctly predicted ecological disaster, fiercely opposed the proposal. Nonetheless, Nile perch found their way into the lake, having either been surreptitiously introduced, or having swum in along the Victoria Nile from Lake Kyoga in central Uganda. From a commercial point of view, the arrival of Nile perch n the lake was an enormous success, and catches spiralled, fuelling a lucrative export trade to Europe and Asia. Ecologically however, the Nile perch was an unmitigated disaster: by the 1970s, Lake Victorias cichlid populations, which had previously constituted 80% of the lakes fish, had fallen to under 5% (now estimated at 1%). The Nile perch were quite literally eating their way through the lakes native species. Sadly, the Nile perch are only part of the problem: pollution on a massive scale is the major cause of the lakes oxygen depletion. The British and Germans were keen to use the lakes fertile hinterland for commercial plantations, and set about clearing vast areas of forests and other natural vegetation. With no permanent cover, soil erosion became an acute problem, as shown today in the sludge brown colour of many of the regions rivers. In addition, the drainage of lakeside swamps (which are natural filters of silt and sediment) removed the barrier between the lake and the rain-carried chemical residues from farms (especially pesticides and fertilizers) and gold mines, whose slurry is poisoned by mercury and other heavy metals. Add to this vast quantities of untreated effluent from the lakeside cities (Mwanza alone discharges an estimated 65 million litres of sewage into the lake every day) and you have some idea of the scale of the problem. The resulting unnaturally high levels of nutrients in the lake water, especially nitrates, has caused the proliferation of algae near the lakes surface and the acidification of the water, which in turn has provided an ideal habitat for another unwanted species, water hyacinth. This pernicious (albeit beautiful) floating weed is native to South America, and wa introduced to Africa as an ornamental pond species. Apart from hindering shipping, the blanket of weed cuts off sunlight to the water beneath, creating stagnant areas and leading directly to an increased incidence of diseases such as cholera, malaria and bilharzia. The weeds also deplete oxygen levels, which has much the same effect on cichlid populations as the jaws of the Nile perch. Now the vicious cycle of destruction appears to have turned full circle, as the Nile perch stocks are dwindling for want of food. Health hazards: Bilharzia-carrying snails flourish in reeds around lakes fringes. Youll see local kids + fishermen in the water but the danger of contracting the disease is real. Similarly, while crocodile and hippo attacks are rare on the Tanzanian side of the lake, take local advice seriously. The steamy shore is a fertile breeding ground for malarial mosquitoes check bed nets carefully and remember those pills. TAP WATER NEEDS PURIFYING FOR DRINKING.

Mwanza region Mwanza region, on the south side of Lake Victoria, is dominated by the port city of Mwanza. The region, much of it undulating plains scattered with large granite outcrops called kopjes, is home to the Sukuma, cattle-herders by tradition, though many are now subsistence farmers. Mwanza is a handy base for a number of nearby attractions including the Sukuma Museum and the islands of Ukerewe and Ukara, and also serves as a potential base for visiting Serengeti National Park, whose western border is barely 5km from the lakeshore.

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Located on Mwanza Gulf on the southeast shore of Lake Victoria, the scruffy weather-beaten but lively and friendly city of Mwanza is Tanzanias second-largest metropolis, one of Africas fastest-growing cities (12% a year) and the countrys busiest inland port, handling most of Tanzanias trade with Uganda. The city was founded in 1892 as a cotton-trading centre, but cotton has declined in importance as a result of low world prices, erratic rains and mismanagement. Now fishing, trade, some light industry, and particularly receipts (legitimate or otherwise) from the regions gold and diamond mines have stepped in to fill some of the economic gap. Mwanzas inhabitants, many of them economic migrants, now number around one and a half million, 70 80% of whom live in insalubrious slums on and around the hills on the citys outskirts. The pace of population growth has now far outstripped the development of the citys infrastructure, much of which is in a pitiful stat e, where it exists at all. For many, the main source of protein is punky fishbone waste sold off by fish-processing factories. Still, things are looking up: the citys streets, notorious for having more holes than asphalt, have finally been patched up and even expanded, and the location sitting among rolling lakeside hills with great views is handsome indeed. Getting around: ~ Buzuruga bus stand is 5km east of the centre: plenty daladalas from here ~ ferry over Mwanza Gulf to Kamanga (and from Busisi to Kigongo, further south) ~ Mwanza Airport lies 8km northeast of the centre: daladalas into town cost a few hundred shillings. Normal taxi fare is Tsh 7000-10,000 but drivers will try it on for more. ~ Mwanza is terminus of Central Railway Lines northern branch (served by 3 trains a week from Dar, a 37 hr ride), 500m south of centre on Station Rd. ~ Walking: the city centre is small enough to walk around. Taxis can be found everywhere: a short ride costs Tsh 1500-2000, though tourists may be overcharged. ~ See http://www.mwanza-guide.com/ for comprehensive tourist information. TAP WATER NEEDS PURIFYING FOR DRINKING. The city and around: ~ Most of Mwanzas burgeoning population lives on outskirts (in unplanned slums, most famous is Bugando Hill) ~ Market area around bus + daladala stands. ~ Just north of Uhuru Monument, straddling the foul Mirongo River are Maasai herbalists (selling medicinal concoctions, shell necklaces, trinkets etc) ~ Clock-tower roundabout at west end of Nyerere Rd commemorates the discovery of Lake Victoria and hence the source of the Nile in 1858 by English explorer, Speke. The traffic island also has a small memorial to the men who died in the two world wars: the British as soldiers and Africans as conscripted porters. ~ Botanical Gardens (neglected lakeside) are 400m north of the traffic island, off Makongoro Road. ~ Hilly Capri Point peninsula south of centre (citys most affluent district home to millionaires from mining etc) ~ Bismarck Rock, citys most photographed landmark (south from clock tower) dont swim there!! Risks etc. ~ Saa Nane Island Game Reserve, attractive island, big rocks picnic spots. Game reserve is Dismal and depressing. Dont go. ~ To get to the top of Capri Point, walk past the Saa Nane museum and turn right before Tilapia Hotel. First left then right... keep going straight up up up...from here a footpath winds along the edge of the summit giving fantastic views of Mwanza Creek, Lake Victoria and dozens of islands. ~ Uhuru Street, great for street food, lots of stalls at night dishing up grilled meat (goat is best), fish + bananas cooked on smoky charcoal jikos (BBQs). For a taste of paan try Harish Pan House or Sachin Pan House both at the junction of Nyerere Rd and Posta Street. Eating ~ Deluxe Hotel, Kishamapanda St. Popular at lunch times, has usual range of Tanzanian favourites plus excellent matoke (stew made from bananas). Food costs around Tsh 1000 a dish. ~ The Food Square, Bantu St. A reliably good cheap place in centre, on two floors, with great pilau and other full meals (from Tsh 1300 to Tsh 2500 for chicken + chips) plus supu, various snacks, juices + grills in eve. No alcohol. ~ Kuleana Pizzeria, Posta St. Semi-outdoors, cheerfully decorated place is as popular with locals as travellers so get there early to be sure of a table. Strictly vegetarian food is invariably delicious, once sullen waitresses get round to you. Large pizzas for around Tsh 6000, sandwiches and a good range of cakes, biscuits and fresh bread. ~ New Mwanza Hotel, Posta Rd. A rarity: a smart city hotel offering what it calls street food from South India. Its delicious too, with a particularly tasty saag paneer. ~ Salma Cone, Bantu St. Snacks such as samosas, cakes and buns, ice creams and good juices, including sugar cane. Opposite City Fries - does a mean trade in kebabs! Tsh 200 per skewer w juicy salad, tamarind sauce + chilli ~ Sizzler Kenyatta St. Unpretentious pleasant restaurant in centre of town serves good, cheap non-nonsense grub such as pepper steak (Tsh4000) or mixed grill (Tsh5000), Indian dishes. Takeaway available. CNN on in background.

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~ Tilapia Hotel restaurants, Capri Point: restaurants, poolside BBQ, coffee shop, Indian, Japanese + (especially good) Thai restaurants. Enjoy deliciously prepared meals on the terrace overlooking the specula view of the Mwanza Harbour + Lake Victoria from the eastern side of Capri Point, or by the pool or lakeside. Starters Tsh6000 (2.40), main courses Tsh 10,000 12,000 (4 - 5). Relax together with a drink or a cold Safari Beer or a South African Castle Beer - the first time will decidedly not be your last. Has a well stocked bar and is the main weekend hangout for the well to do. Theres also a big TV screen for sports.

~ Surve Inn Lumumba Rd. A good calm + clean hoteli that is especially good for breakfast, with decent supu, tea, samosas + even espresso. Open daytime only, closed Sundays. No alcohol. ~ Yun Long Chinese restaurant Nasser Drive, beyond Bismarck Rock. The only completed part of an abandoned project to build a posh resort-style hotel on the lakeshore. Despite this, its Mwanzas most attractive eating venue its delightful lakeside terrace offering unmatched views. The menu is Chinese and Tanzanian (chips, rice or ugali with chicken, fish or stews). Most Chinese dishes cost Tsh8500 including rice. Open daily til midnight. Drinking + nightlife ~ Just Rumours Posta St/Court St. Sth like a wine bar (lots of mirrors, glass + polished wood) with Castle lager on tap. Discos on Fri + Sat from 10pm (Tsh3000) dancing continues til daybreak. Open from 3pm, closed Mondays. ~ Lake Hotel Station Rd. Large friendly + popular old-timers bar with satellite TV. Has reasonable restaurant (meals around Tsh2500) but eat in the bar rather than the glum dining room. ~ Mwanza Institute Club Station Rd. Pleasant peaceful place for a drink, with seats in a shady garden at the back. ~ New Mwanza Hotel Posta St. ~ Royal Pub off Karuta St. This Tanzanian beer garden is popular throughout the day + well into night. Has mellow music to boot. Does good nourishing breakfasts of chapatti + supu; sells cakes + sweets. ~ Tivol Cafe Posta St. The 1st floor street-side balcony attracts the after-work crowd. Serves food.

The riddle of the Nile

Africas Great Lakes Victoria (Nyanza), Tanganyika and Nyasa remained virtually unknown outside Africa until the 2nd half of the C 19th when they suddenly became the centre of attention amid the scramble to pinpoint the source of the Nile. This was no mere academic exercise for whoever controlled the Nile, controlled Egypt. Yet it was a riddle that had bamboozled geographers and travellers alike since ancient times, when Herodotus, the Father of History, had wrongly stated that West Africas Niger was a branch of the Nile. Pliny the Elder compounded the confusion with his belief that the Nile had its head in a mountain of lower Mauritania, not far from the Atlantic Ocean while early Arab geographers didnt help matters by calling the Niger al-Nil al-Kebir, meaning the Great Nile. In Feb 1858, the English explorers John Hanning Speke and Richard Francis Burton became the first white men to set eyes on Lake Tanganyika. The impetuous Burton instinctively believed Lake Tanganyika to be the Niles source, but Speke argued, correctly, it turned out, that the lake lay too low. Leaving behind a grumbling and poorly Burton, Speke headed north, having been told of Lake Victoria by an Arab slave trader. As soon as he reached the shore, where Mwanza is now, in August 1858, Speke was convinced that the quest was finally over. Speke returned to the lake in Oct 1861, with the Scottish explorer James Augustus Grant and, after circling half the lake, sailed down the Nile in 1863 all the way to Cairo. The Nile is settled he wrote in a telegram from Khartoum to the Royal Geographic Society. Many people remained sceptical of Spekes claim. Burton himself continued to insist that Lake Tanganyika was the true source of the Nile. In the end, it took a circumnavigation of Lake Victoria by Stanley in 1875 to prove Speke right. Sadly Speke didnt live to enjoy his triumph, having died in a hunting accident in 1864.

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18. Serengeti Hic Svnt Leones (here be lions) read the medieval maps to cover their gaps and not without reason. Tanzania contains more lions than anywhere else on earth. But big lazy felines are just the start of it. With over 320 other mammalian species, 1200 kinds of birds, as many butterflies, 400 types of reptiles and amphibians and over 30% of the country protected as parks and reserves, most of which can be visited Tanzania is among the worlds finest wildlife destinations. Safari njema have a great journey!
8km from Lake Victoria Tanzanias oldest + largest national park Siringet is Maasai word meaning endless plain and gives the park its name Protected since 1929 - when trophy hunters were wreaking havoc Declared a park in 1951 14,763 km2 Serengeti along with Ngorongoro is a UNESCO World Heritage Site + International Biosphere Reserve Park is busiest from Dec to Feb (avoid) Long rains are from Feb/March to May Big 5: lions, leopards, rhinos, Cape Buffalo, elephant Little 5: ant lion, RHINO beetle, ELEPHANT shrew, BUFFALO weaver or the LEOPARD tortoise Annual migration: goes up to Maasai Mara + thro Loliondo (remote wilderness between Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Lake Natron and Kenyan border)

The Great Migration The Serengeti owes its hallowed place in our imagination to the annual 800km migration of over 2.5 million animals, the largest mammalian migration on earth. A continuous, milling and settled mass, including almost 2m wildebeest and close to a million other animals, the migration offers visitors one of natures most staggering displays, one in which the ever-vigilant predators lions, cheetahs, African hunting dogs and spotted hyenas play a vital part. The river crossings are the biggest obstacle, namely the Grumeti in Serengeti, and the Mara along the border with Kenya in the north, and both can be the scene of true carnage as the panicked herds struggle across the raging flows in a writhing mass of bodies while the weak, injured or careless are picked off by crocodiles and lions. The migrations ceaseless movement is prompted by a seasonal search for fresh water and pasture dictated by the rains. It moves in a roughly clockwise direction, concentrating in the national park from April to June, towards the end of the long rains, before leaving behind the withering plains of the Serengeti and journeying northward towards the fresh moisture and grass of Kenyas Maasai Mara Game Reserve, which the migration reaches in August. By September and October, the bulk of the migration is concentrated in Maasai Mara. By late October and early November, the Maras grasslands are approaching exhaustion, so the migration turns back towards northern and eastern Serengeti, following the fresh grass brought by the short rains. In this period, the migration is widely spread out, and a large part of it circles through Loliondo and into Ngorongoro, beyond the Serengetis eastern border. From December to March, the migration settles in the Serengeti Plains and western Ngorongoro, where it remains until the onset of the long rains. The wildebeest take advantage of this temporary pause to give birth (especially from late Jan to mid-March) accounting for half a million calves annually. The timing of this mass birthing provides security in numbers: predators will eat their fill but within a few months, the surviving calves are much stronger and able to outrun their pursuers. Nonetheless, the hazards of the migration are such that only one in three calves makes it back the following year. By April, the migration is once more concentrated inside Serengeti, and the whole cycle starts again. The exact time and location of the migration varies annually, depending on the rains and other factors, so coinciding with it cannot be guaranteed. As a general rule, the best months for seeing the migration in the Serengeti are from December to July, especially February and March in the plains when the wildebeest herds are dotted with newborn, and April to June when animal concentrations are at their highest. June is also the best time for catching the migrations perilous crossing of the Grumeti River, while the spectacular Mara River crossing, best seen from Kenya but also in northern Serengeti, is at its most awesome (and gruesome) in July and August. _____

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Along with the Kalahari, the flat grassland plains covering the eastern section of the park, are the Western imaginations archetypal African landscape and the highlight of many a visit, certainly when migration is in full sw ing. Theres plenty to see including clans of hyenas, lion prides, and a series of weathered granite outcrops called kopjes (pronounced kop-yees, from the Afrikaans for little head) one of which contains rock paintings, and another a mysterious rock gong. The plains cover only one third of the park Seronera, in hilly centre (where visitors centre is + many lodges) has excellent year-round game viewing 40km-wide corridor in north, connects w Kenyas Maasai Mara Game Reserve: rolling hills + acacia woo dland Grumeti River to the west, flanking evergreen forest habitat for leopards; river + swamps home to water birds + crocodiles

Serengeti stats: Of the 5m animals to be found during migration (double the resident population) there are wildebeest, who numbered almost 2m at the last count, gazelle, both Grants and Thomsons, who are estimated at around half a million, and some 300,000 zebra. But even when the migration is up in Maasai Mara, or spread out across Ngorongoro and Loliondo, the park contains substantial populations of plains game, including buffalo, giraffe, and warthog, and a wide range of antelopes, including dikdik, bushbuck and mountain reedbuck, eland and impala, and the rarer oryx and topi. Some 2000 elephants too, are present, though they are largely migratory and can easily be missed. But perhaps the predators are the most memorable of the animals: apart from Ngorongoro, Serengeti is probably the best place in Tanzania to see predators in action. Foremost are nearly 8000 much-maligned spotted hyenas, which live in clans of up to 80 individuals. The parks 3000 or so lions are also very visible (males have characteristic black manes). Other predators include cheetahs, which have been the subject of ongoing research since 1975, leopards and bateared foxes. Scavengers, apart from hyenas (which also hunt) include both golden and side-striped jackals and vultures. There are six species of vulture, representing a fraction of Serengetis 520 bird species (including Eurasian winter migrants) the countrys second-highest count after Tarangire National Park. Expect to see several hundred bird species in a two or three day safari including many of the parks 34 raptors. ____ Entering the park ~ Naabi Hill Gate is eastern entrance (only accepts MasterCard) ~ Ndabaka Gate is western entrance (where we enter), next to the Mwanza-Musoma Highway, 145km from Seronera Visitor Centre in centre (only accepts Visa). You cant visit Serengeti in any meaningful way using public transport (you co uld get a feel for the place on one of the roughly daily buses between Arusha and Musoma or Mwanza but would still have to pay the entrance fee and another $50 for Ngorongoro, so its an expensive glimpse). This means that most visitors come on an organise d safari from ARusha or Mwanza, whether by road or upmarket packages, by light aircraft or in a 4WD. Renting a 4WD in Arusha, Karatu or Mwanza, gives you more flexibility than a standard safari, and works out pretty cheaply if you can fill all the seats. Self-drive is possible, although in theory this restricts your movements to the main roads through the park, so its better to rent a vehicle with a drive (who usually doubles as a wildlife guide ) or to hire an official guide at the park gate ($20 a day). Fill up on fuel wherever you can as supplies are limited and expensive. Cheapest fuel is at Seronera village in the centre. Much costlier and sometimes reluctant to sell it except in emergencies are the garages at Lobo Wildlife Lodge, Serengeti Sopa Lodge, etc. Park entry fees valid for 24 hours are $50 pp and TSh10,000 for a vehicle. You can buy guidebooks and maps at the park gates (if theyre not out of stock) and in Arusha, Dar and Zanzibar, or at the parks lodges. The best guidebook is the full-colour, pocketsize edition published in 2000 by TANAPA. A decent map isnt that important if youre with a professional guide but a good bet is Giovanni Tombazzis hand painted version. Official website is http://www.serengeti.org/

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Discover Serengeti - http://www.serengeti.org/ It was 1913 and great stretches of Africa were still unknown to the white man when Stewart Edward White, an American hunter, set out from Nairobi. Pushing south, he recorded: "We walked for miles over burnt out country... Then I saw the green trees of the river, walked two miles more and found myself in paradise." He had found Serengeti. In the years since White's excursion under "the high noble arc of the cloudless African sky," Serengeti has come to symbolize paradise to many of us. The Maasai, who had grazed their cattle on the vast grassy plains for millennia had always thought so. To them it was Siringitu - "the place where the land moves on forever." The Serengeti region encompasses the Serengeti National Park itself, the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Maswa Game Reserve, the Loliondo, Grumeti and Ikorongo Controlled Areas and the Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya. Over 90,000 tourists visit the Park each year. Two World Heritage Sites and two Biosphere Reserves have been established within the 30,000 km region. It's unique ecosystem has inspired writers from Ernest Hemingway to Peter Mattheissen, filmakers like Hugo von Lawick and Alan Root as well as numerous photographers and scientists - many of which have put their works at our disposal to create this website. The Serengeti ecosystem is one of the oldest on earth. The essential features of climate, vegetation and fauna have barely changed in the past million years. Early man himself made an appearance in Olduvai Gorge about two million years ago. Some patterns of life, death, adaptation and migration are as old as the hills themselves. It is the migration for which Serengeti is perhaps most famous. Over a million wildebeest and about 200,000 zebras flow south from the northern hills to the southern plains for the short rains every October and November, and then swirl west and north after the long rains in April, May and June. So strong is the ancient instinct to move that no drought, gorge or crocodile infested river can hold them back. The Wildebeest travel through a variety of parks, reserves and protected areas and through a variety of habitat. Join us to explore the different forms of vegetation and landscapes of the Serengeti ecosystem and meet some of their most fascinating inhabitants. Welcome to the Serengeti. Lota Melamari, Director General, Tanazania National Parks _____

Serengeti Sopa Lodge africatravelresource.com (ace website!)

Rating : 5/10; Price guide : US$ 355 pp pn (advertised price in RG is $530 HB (pn pp or pr?!!) located in Serengeti Central area of northern Tanzania Sopa is a range of large motel lodges which caters for the middle-market packaged safari customer in a decent spot, out on its own in the hills to the west of the main long-grass plains It is apparently the area where the lioness Elsa, of Born Free fame, was released into the wild The lodge itself is, to be frank, terribly uninspiring, although reasonably well run and reliable We rarely include Serengeti Sopa Lodge in our safaris, the rare occasions we do tend to be April/May when the migration should come through + most tented camps have been pulled from the parks due to rains
Serengeti Sopa Lodge, Nyarboro Hills, 46km southwest of Seronera (book thro Sopa Lodges, 4th floor, Sopa Plaza, 99 Serengeti Rd, Arusha, tel: 027/250 0630-9, http://www.sopalodges.com) . Occupying a ridge, this is an architectural blot but things perk up considerably inside where warm ochre tones and chunky armchairs with big cushions dominate public areas. The 79 rooms are large and have balconies with sweeping views, and theres a pool on a panoramic terrace. Feb June is the main migration time, especially April. HB 530. Source: Rough Guide

The Lodge: Nestled in the acacia woodland on the edge of the escarpment overlooking the plains of SW Serengeti National Park. 315 km from Arusha, approxx 7.5 hours drive / 50 mins flight with 45 mins transfer. Rooms: 9 standard rooms with 2 queen size beds, carpeted, furnished with local fabrics and pictures, lounge + mini bar, veranda with 2 comfy chairs + table, glass windows facing the vast Serengeti plains. En-suite bathroom, hairdryer.
4 spacious double storey suites, with a lounge area on the ground floor where one can dine, sit out on the balcony facing the Serengeti Plains. Upstairs bedroom with king size bed on a raised wooden platform, and bathtub facing plains.

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Serengeti Sopa Lodge

Other Serengeti accom (just for ref, ranging between $400 800 pp pn)
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ Kirawira Tentend Camp - http://www.serenahotels.com/serenakirawira/default-en.html Mbuzi Mawi tented camp - http://www.serenahotels.com/serenambuzi/default-en.html Lobo wildlife lodge http://www.hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com/properties/en/lobo_index.php Serengeti migration camp http://www.elewanacollection.com/serengeti-migration-camp/serengeti-migration-camp-at-a-glance Seronera wildlife lodge - http://www.hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com/properties/en/seronera_index.php

Rock Gongs The Maasai, evicted in 1959 left their mark literally, in a rock shelter on one of the Moru Kopjes 32km south of Seronera (has rock paintings in red, white and black, of Maasai shields identical to ceremonial shields still used today). Drawings of elephants etc, were left by young Maasai warriors (morani) for whom the site was the location of an orpul meat-feasting (you can tell from soot lining shelters ceiling). Junior warriors were prohibited from eating meat so theyd steal a cow and bring it here. The rock gongs another enigmatic kopje 1km away are an ensemble of three loose boulders: a large lemon-shaped wedge bears dozens of circular depressions, created by people repeatedly striking the rock with stones to produce weirdly reverbative and metallic sounds. Rock gongs are now only played by tourists but the wedge-shaped one was certainly used as an instrument way before the Maasia arrived a couple of centuries ago (they lack any musical tradition involving percussive instruments). Little is known of the huntergatherers who made the gongs, their exact age, etc and their purpose remains a mystery. In 1992 a species of treefrog hitherto unknown to science was discovered in one of the rock gongs depressions. Seronera Central part of Serengeti, comprising wooded valleys and savanna of the Grumeti Rivers main tributaries. There are a large number of drivable circuits in the area, and the wildlife is representative of most of Serengetis species. Highlight: Seroneras famous black-maned lions the cause of many sleepless nights at campsites! Leopards also abound, though youll need a dash of luck, as they chill out by day in the leafy branches of yellow -barked acacias close to the rivers. The migration usually moves up to Seronera from the plains in April, before continuing on north and west. Head for Seronera Visitor Centre after an early morning game drive (daily 8am to 4.30pm) ~ has permanent exhibits, displays and wildlife video screenings with a humorous information trail ~ Shop, drinks, snacks, etc. Gift shop, booklets, maps etc. ~ Picnic site where semi-tame rock hyraxes + birds including hoopoes and Fischers lovebirds eye up your lunch. Main trails: Most have numbered road junctions corresponding to those on the leaflet, eg ~ the Seronera River Circuit (junctions 1 26) starts at Seronera Hippo Pool and follows the river, and offers sightings of lions, leopards, crocodiles and waterbuck, as well as hippos, giraffes, vervet monkeys, baboons and many birds. The circuit can be combined with... ~ the Kopjes Circuit (junctions 52 62; enter at junction 18 on the east bank of the Seronera River) which goes anti-clockwise around Maasai, Loliondo and Boma Kopjes. Climbing on rocks is forbidden. ~ the Hills Circuit (junctions 27 29) cuts through grassland to the wooded foothills of the Makori and Makoma Hills west of the Seronera Valley, and is good for hyena, zebra, ostrich, warthog, gazelle, topi and hartebeest. A drive along this circuit is best combined with... ~ the Songore River Circuit (junctions 30 34) which loops into the plains south of the Seronera River. Thomsons and Grants gazelle, topi, hartebeest and ostrich are frequent, as are cheetah during the dry season. ~ the Wandamu River Circuit (junctions 40 49), covers similar habitats to the Seronera River Circuit, and hugs the banks of the Wandamu River, especially popular with buffaloes. Western corridor The western corridor is the unlovely name given to the 40km-wide strip that reaches out from Seronera to within 8km of Lake Victoria. The forests and swamps of the Grumeti River mark the northern boundary while to the south is an area of grassland flanked by low wooded hills. The area receives the annual migration between May and July, after

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which time the bulk of the herds head on north over the Grumeti River towards Maasai Mara. This is the best time to visit the area, especially if the river is in flood, when the crossing is extremely perilous. At first hesitant, the herds surge headlong with a lemming-like instinct into the raging waters, while crocodiles and lions lie in wait for those injured in the effort, too weak for the strong currents or who get stuck in the muddy quagmire at the rivers edges. You can find the crossings just by looking for vultures circling overhead. A small part of the migration forgoes the pleasures of the river crossing to stay behind in the grasslands in the western part of the corridor, which also contains substantial populations of non-migratory animals, including some wildebeest and zebra, and smaller populations of giraffe and buffalo, hartebeest, waterbuck, eland, topi, impala and Thomsons gazelle. Hippo are present in large numbers, and in the dry season can always be seen at Retima Hippo Pool, 20km north of Seronera. Given the abundance of food, predators flourish too, leopards in the lush tangled forests and thickets beside the river, and crocodiles especially around Kirawira in the west for whom the migrations river crossing provides a Bacchanalian feast. A speciality of the forest is a popul ation of black-and-white colobus monkeys, though youll need time and patience to track them down. The forests are also rich in birdlife, especially during the European winter. With luck, you might see the rare olive-green bulbul. Northern Serengeti The patches of acacia woodland at Seronera begin to dominate the rolling hills of northern Serengeti. The area contains at least 28 acacia species, each adapted to a particular ecological niche, and the change in species is often startlingly abrupt, with one completely replacing another within a distance of sometimes only a few dozen metres. The undulating nature of the landscape makes it easy to spot animals from a distance and further north, especially around Lobo Kopjes, higher ground provides fantastic views of the migration in the grasslands to the east (best months are July Sep when it heads north, and Nov and Dec when it turns back). Elephant, buffalo, zebra, gazelle and warthog can be seen all year. 1MAR to 20 MAY: heading north in large herds and rutting: rains limit allure : refer to central and west Serengeti weather Some time during March the long rains usually begin and although general conditions remain pleasant and there can

be a good deal of sunny and clear weather around, the chances of heavy downpours and periods of prolonged adverse conditions become increasingly likely as the month wears on. April usually sees the worst of the weather, with rain expected on two thirds of days, heavy rain and low cloud cover both being more than possible. For more info on the Serengeti, see: ~ http://www.africatravelresource.com/serengeti/ + ~ http://www.africatravelresource.com/serengeti/guide/

~ http://www.serengeti.org/ ~ http://www.serengeti.org/animals.html#a - see Magnificent Wildlife section for A to Z of all animals ~ http://www.tanzaniaparks.com/serengeti.html - official website

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Map of Serengeti for April indicates migration activity and Sopa Lodge

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19. Ngorongoro Crater

Ngorongoros ecology: a precarious balance Ngorongoro is a wilderness, but one that has also long been inhabited by humans, originally by hunter-gatherers, collectively known as Dorobo, and later by cattle herders, including the ancestors of the Barbaig and then the Maasai. As with Serengeti, humans were and are very much part of Ngorongoros delicate ecological balance, a balance that has become increasingly precarious since the end of the C. 19th when Europe began to colonise East Africa. The first Mzungu to set eyes on Ngorongoro and its famous crater was the German explorer, Dr Oscar Baumann, who in March 1892 reported a magnificent abundance of game, and promptly went on to bag three rhinos. So began a long history of European involvement, first for hunting, then for conservation, and which, for all their efforts and theories, has witnessed a massive decline in animal numbers. Originally heavily exploiting the area for hunting, the British administration soon realised that their activities were having a detrimental effect on Ngorongoros wildlife and in 1921 Ngorongoro became a game reserve. Seven years later, locals were prohibited from hunting and cultivating in the crater, although hypocritically Europeans continued to do as they wished until the end of the 1930s, when trophy hunting was finally banned. In 1951, Ngorongoro became part of Serengeti National Park, and in 1958 the Maasai under formidable pressure formally renounced their claim to Serengeti. The following year they were evicted and moved into Ngorongoro, which was declared a multiple land use area. This special status still allows Maasai to settle and graze their cattle in coexistence with wildlife, but this admirable idea conceals a more disturbing reality. Although the law states that in cases of human-wildlife conflict in Ngorongoro, Maasai rights are to take precedence, this has rarely been the case, and relations between the authorities and the Maasai have at times been extremely bitter. Settlement in the crater itself was banned in 1974, and cultivation, which the Maasai increasingly had to adopt, was prohibited throughout Ngorongoro in 1975, and only periodically allowed since. Livestock too has been excluded from the crater since the early 1990s, denying the Maasai a critical dry-season pasture for their cattle, and the last decade has been peppered with deeply troubling allegations. For more details see Policy and Legal Issues on Wildlife Management in Tanzania's Pastoral Lands: The Case Study of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area at http://www2.warwick.ac.uk/fac/soc/law/elj/lgd/2000_1/lissu The underlying problem is that the Maasai presence is barely tolerated by Ngorongoros authorities, which have progressively made it harder for them to scrape a living from their diminishing resources. Having lost water and pasture rights to the crater (and 80% of the land they controlled until a century ago), the Maasia have also been forbidden from hunting or cultivating. An estimated 40% of Ngorongoros Maasai are considered destitute, owning less than two livestock units per household. Some conservationists see tourism as the solution, but to date the Maasai have seen little of Ngorongoros gate receipts beyond the construction of a few wells, dams and dispensaries. Ngorongoros problems arent just with the Maasai, however. The changing ecological balance caused by the ban on subsistence hunting and the exclusion of cattle from large areas has favoured increased wildebeest and buffalo populations, with the unfortunate knock-on effect of an increased incidence of malignant catarrh fever, which is fatal to cattle. Diseases affecting wildlife have also become more common, disastrously so in 2000 and 2001, when an outbreak of tick-borne Babesiosis claimed the lives of over 600 animals, including three rhino. The changing ecological balance may also have been responsible for swarms of aggressive blood-sucking flies, Stomoxys calcitrans, which killed at least six lions and injured 62 more in 2001. Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge - http://www.sopalodges.com/ngorongoro/home.html Perched on the rim of the collapsed volcano, the Ngorongoro Crater, a world heritage site, often referred to as the eighth wonder of the world. It has the most magnificent views over the crater floor, which is home to vast herds of buffalo, wildebeest, zebra, the rare and endangered black rhino, elephant, cheetah, leopard, lion and herds of gazelle and wildebeest. Its position on the Eastern rim allows the most spectacular and uninterrupted views of the sunset. ~ lodge is 170 km from Arusha, approx 4 hours drive / 40 mins by air, with 45 mins transfer.

Ngorongora Sopa Lodge

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Ngorongoro crater

Ngorongoro is referred to as Africas garden of Eden Read more at http://sevennaturalwonders.org/africa/ngorongoro-crater/

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20. Arusha
Capital of the Arusha Region, with a projected population of 1,288,088, including 516,000 for the Arusha District (2007 census). Situated below Mount Meru on the eastern edge of the eastern branch of the Great Rift Valley, Arusha has a temperate climate. The city is close to Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater, Lake Manyara, Olduvai Gorge, Tarangire National Park, and Mount Kilimanjaro and The Arusha National Park on Mount Meru. Arusha is a major international diplomatic hub. The city is regarded as the de facto capital of the East African Community. Since 1994, the city has also hosted the International Criminal Tribunal for Rwanda. A multicultural city with a majority Tanzanian population of mixed backgrounds, large Arab-Tanzanian and Indian-Tanzanian population, and small White European and white American minority population, religions and denominations of the Arushan population are Catholic, Anglican, Jewish, Muslim, and Hindu. A souvenir-hunters paradise (Tingatinga paintings, carvings etc).
Despite a burgeoning population of around 400,000 people, Arusha has a remarkably laid-back, small-town atmosphere, an impression accentuated by the unexpected sight of small fields of maize and vegetables, running straight through the centre of town, along the banks of the Naura, Goliondoi and Themi rivers. Its a very cosmopolitan + diverse place. (source: Rough Guide)

History of the town founded by German colonialists when the territory was part of German East Africa in 1900 A garrison town, named after the local tribe Wa-Arusha, known as Larusa by the Maasai. German military fortress, called a Boma, armed with a mounted Maxim machine gun, was completed in 1901 1st commander was First Lieut. Georg Kuster - derogatorily called in Swahili "Bwana Fisi" meaning "Mr. Hyena" after 1903 Arusha quickly developed into a significant trading and administrative centre, with about two dozen Indian and Arab shops clustered along what is today Boma Road in the 1960s parts of the movie Hatari! with John Wayne were filmed at Momella official documents ceding independence to Tanganyika were signed by UK here in 1961 + Arusha Declaration was signed in 1967 in Arusha Arusha Accords were signed at the city of Arusha on August 4, 1993, by representatives of competing factions in the Rwandan civil war. In 1994 the UN Security Council decided by its Resolution 955 of 8 Nov 1994 that Arusha should host the International Criminal Tribunal for Rwanda; the establishment of the tribunal with its foreign employees influenced the local economy of the city (increasing the cost of living for residents). The tribunal is downsizing due to its closure in 2014, but its legal successor, the International Residual Mechanism for Criminal Tribunals established by UN Security Council Resolution 1966, will continue entertaining a branch in Arusha, opening on 1 July 2012 officially declared a city on 1 July 2006 by the Tanzanian government

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Industry and economy: The primary industry is the service sector, hosting numerous small and large businesses, banking, retail and commercial enterprises. Home to largest manufacturing sector in region: breweries, tyre manufacturing and agro-forest processing, and a large pharmaceuticals maker. Tourism is a major contributor to the economy (tourism is the second largest contributor of income in Tanzania), given the city's location near to major national parks and game reserves (receives 400,000 visitors a year per RG same #) Districts: Among Arusha's notable districts are the Central Business Area, located by the Clocktower, Sekei in the North-West which is largely residential with a vibrant nightlife, Njiro, a middle-class rapidly-growing suburb in the South, and Tengeru, a lively market-town in the East. North of Arusha are districts called Karatu, Ngorongoro, Monduli, Arumeru and Longido, about 90 mins north of Arusha by daladala along the Arusha-Nairobi Road. Robanda Safari Camp is one of the favourite Safari Camps, located just outside Serengeti Ikoma Gate (location was carefully chosen as its right in the path of the wildebeest migration). The best time to witness this spectacular migration is from May to Au gust and from October to December. There is a high animal concentration year round though, with big herds of wildebeest and zebra, elephant and giraffe. Other animal species include lion, hyena, gazelle, topi, and buffalo. Arusha's clock tower is popularly supposed to be situated at the midpoint between Cairo and Cape Town, therefore representing the halfway point between the two termini of the old British Empire in Africa but the actual great circle midpoint between these two cities (reputedly) lies in central Congo. The clock tower carries the logo of the Coca-Cola Company.

Transport around Arusha Arusha is mostly served by JRO Kilimanjaro International Airport for international travellers, some 60 km (37 mi) east, approx halfway to Moshi, which provides international and domestic flights. Arusha Airport is on the west of the city serving more than 87,000 passengers a year. Travel by road can be done through privately run coaches (buses) to Nairobi, Dodoma and Dar Es Salaam and other major cities. Nb. Fastjet from Kili to Dar es Salaam. Culture, cuisine + nightlife Arusha has moderate weather, scenic countryside and a lively music scene. Tanzanian hip-hop is popular with the youth market. It is mostly performed in Swahili, with genres influenced by African American music, locally known as African Hip Hop. Some examples of this genre are the band X Plastaz, singers Nakaaya, Nako 2 Nako, Watengwa and Waturutumbi. Arusha hosts some of Tanzanias largest festivals including the annual Nane Nane (agricultural festival), a vibrant public holiday on August 8 (the 8th of the 8th month, nane nane means "eight eight" in Swahili). Farmers and other stakeholders showcase products and network. Nane Nane festival attracts up to half million people from around world. The city hosts a yearly festival sponsored by local philanthropists that brings artists from around the world (like Shaggy and Ja Rule). vibrant night life, with popular local night clubs like Velocity,Saba Saba, Colobus Club and the Blue Triple 'A' Club Museums: National Natural History Museum (3 exhibits on early man, plants and animals of the region + history of the city); small museum adjacent to Uhuru monument displaying info about the proceedings of the Arusha Declaration in 1967 also base for East Africa's first indigenous media center - Aang Serian Drum loadsa colleges, training centres and two universities here

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The city's cuisine is a blend of dishes from various cultures around Tanzania and the world. Nyama Choma, Kiti moto, Kuku choma is very popular barbeque dish and is usually served with local cold beer and Pili Pili. Chips mayai is another popular local dish. ~ Via Via is a lively restaurant-cum-bar in the Old German Boma, this is northern Tanzanias best place for the performing arts (saw that 50% campaign by CCR goes on here the Kesho Cafe at Via Via) HIGHLIGHT per RG. Geography and climate Despite its proximity to the equator, Arusha's elevation of 1,400 m on the southern slopes of Mount Meru keeps temperatures relatively low and alleviates humidity. Cool dry air is prevalent for much of the year. The temperature ranges between 13 and 30 degrees Celsius with an average around 25 degrees. It has distinct wet and dry seasons, and experiences an eastern prevailing wind from the Indian Ocean, a couple of hundred miles east. Almost within the entire city; if you go north you will be going uphill, and going south is always downhill.

Sports home to Tanzanian rugby national team + hosts international rugby matches as well Joshua Pieterson who played for national team was 2nd youngest international rugby player ever behind Johnny Wilkinson Southern Pool A of the 2007 Castel Beer Trophy was hosted here home to Arusha FC (Sheikh Amri Abeid Memorial Stadium) in Tanzanian league football hosted The Mount Meru Marathon from 1985 to 2004 - the "all-comers" record for the fastest marathon performance in Tanzania, 2:13:46, was set at the event by former long-distance runner Benedict Ako on August 1, 1993 on May 21, 2011, Drake University Bulldogs beat CONADEIP All-Stars 17-7 in 1st ever American Football Game in Tanzania Where to stay in Arusha
~ Mc-Ellys Hotel, Uhuru Road, PO Box 12077, Behind Benson & Co, Arusha, near stadium - http://www.mcellyshotel.com/ 2 stars, luxury budget ~ Joshmal Hotels (better value on hotels.com, like Mc-Ellys) Wapare Street, Arusha see http://www.hotelsjoshmal.com/contacts-andreservations.html (3 stars) ~ Mount Meru Hotel http://www.mountmeruhotel.com/ central, luxury. ~ Hotel Flamingo - central location close to market + noisy mosques ~ Dik Dik hotel ~ SG Resort, Nairobi Road, Arusha (3 stars) ~ Planet Lodge (cheaper but bit further out) ~ More Arusha B&Bs from TripAdvisor here ~ Milmani Cottages - https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/393024 - 53 a night for private cottage on Himo Rd with spectacular view of Mt Kili + Meru ~ Christina House organises volunteering

Accom from Rough Guide:

~ http://www.arushabackpackers.co.tz/ - budget, well stocked rooftop bar/restuarant with views of Mt Meru, c$20 pp ~ http://www.arushacrownhotel.com/reservations.htm $74 per per double room per night, 38 rooms. Free wi-fi. ~ http://www.arushanaaz.net/ - $60 dbl room pn ensuite. ~ http://outposttanzania.net/ - or TripAdvisor info here - have booked this accom (see over...) $78 x2 nights (dbl rm) ~ http://www.impalahotel.com/ - luxury

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Arusha city centre map

Arusha National Park - http://www.tanzaniaparks.com/arusha.html

Arusha National Park is a multi-faceted jewel, often overlooked by safari-goers, despite offering the opportunity to explore a beguiling diversity of habitats within a few hours. The entrance gate leads into shadowy montane forest inhabited by inquisitive blue monkeys and colourful turacos and trogons the only place on the northern safari circuit where the acrobatic black-and-white colobus monkey is easily seen. In the midst of the forest stands the spectacular Ngurdoto Crater, whose steep, rocky cliffs enclose a wide marshy floor dotted with herds of buffalo and warthog. Further north, rolling grassy hills enclose the tranquil beauty of the Momela Lakes, each one a different hue of green or blue. Their shallows sometimes tinged pink with thousands of flamingos, the lakes support a rich selection of resident and migrant waterfowl, and shaggy waterbucks display their large lyre-shaped horns on the watery fringes. Giraffes glide across the grassy hills, between grazing zebra herds, while pairs of wide-eyed dik-dik dart into scrubby bush like overgrown hares on spindly legs. Although elephants are uncommon in Arusha National Park, and lions absent altogether, leopards and spotted hyenas may be seen slinking around in the early morning and late afternoon. It is also at dusk and dawn that the veil of cloud on the eastern horizon is most likely to clear, revealing the majestic snow-capped peaks of Kilimanjaro, only 50km (30 miles) distant. But it is Kilimanjaros unassuming cousin, Mount Meru - the fifth highest in Africa at 4,566 metres (14,990 feet) that dominates the parks horizon. Its peaks and eastern footslopes protected within the national park, Meru offers unparalleled views of its famous neighbour, while also forming a rewarding hiking destination in its own right. Passing first through wooded savannah where buffalos and giraffes are frequently encountered, the ascent of Meru leads into forests aflame with red-hot pokers and dripping with Spanish moss, before reaching high open heath spiked with giant lobelias. Everlasting flowers cling to the alpine desert, as delicately-hoofed klipspringers mark the hikes progress. Astride the craggy summit, Kilimanjaro stands unveiled, blushing in the sunrise. About Arusha National Park Size: 552 sq km 212 sq miles) Location: Northern Tanzania, northeast of Arusha town
Getting there: An easy 40-min drive from Arusha, approx 60 km (35 miles) from Kilimanjaro JRO Airport. What to do: Forest walks, numerous picnic sites; three- or four-day Mt Meru climb - good acclimatisation for Kili. When to go: To climb Mt Meru, June-February although it may rain in Nov. Best views of Kili Dec-Feb. Accommodation: Two lodges, two rest houses, camp sites, two mountain huts inside the park; more lodges at Usa River outside the park and many hotels and hostels in Arusha town. More info on accommodation

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21. Kilimanjaro
See http://sevennaturalwonders.org/africa/mount-kilimanjaro/ Kilimanjaro, with its three volcanic cones, Kibo, Mawenzi, and Shira, is a dormant volcanic mountain in Kilimanjaro National Park, Kilimanjaro Region, Tanzania. It is the highest mountain in Tanzania, the highest mountain in Africa and the highest free-standing mountain in the world at 5,895 metres or 19,341 feet above sea level (the Uhuru Peak/Kibo Peak). This statistical significance helped Mount Kilimanjaro secure the position as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Africa, which were officially declared on February 11, 2013 in Arusha, Tanzania. Tallest mountain in Africa at 19,340 feet (5,895 m) Tallest free standing mountain in the world 7 peaks with Uhuru Peak being the highest Kibo peak features a 1.5 mile wide crater Greatest view of earth's surface in one view

Mount Kilimanjaro is one of the largest stratovolcanoes in the world reaching 19,340 feet (5,895 m) into the air. As the tallest mountain in Africa, Mount Kilimanjaro is also the tallest free standing mountain in the world. Kilimanjaro is a composite volcano that includes layers of lava, tephra, and volcanic ash. The volcano is currently inactive with no known history of eruptions. Mount Kilimanjaro has seven distinctive peaks with Uhuru Peak accounting for the mountains highest elevation at 19,341 feet (5,895 m). A 1.5 mile wide crater is featured as part of the Kibo portion of the mountain. The high elevation and proximity to the equator allows visitors to experience a variety of climate types. Kilimanjaro also features a year round snow-topped peak. Although the volcano is isolated, it is part of the line of volcanoes that reach across northern Tanzania. The best view of Mount Kilimanjaro comes from approaching the mountain from the northern Kenya side. The majority of pictures seen in magazines and travel guides feature this view. However, the best way to experience Mount Kilimanjaro is through taking a trek up and around the mountain. The six official trekking routes include Machame, Marangu, Lemosho, Rongai, Shira, and Umbwe. The easiest trek comes from the Rongai route, however this is also the least scenic. Machame is one of the more challenging treks, however it does offer the most attractive and scenic views. No matter which route you take, you will need to plan at least 5 to 7 days for the trek allowing for both travel and more importantly acclimation to the altitude. Image of Kilimanjaro from the Marangu Route Visitors who plan to trek up Mount Kilimanjaro need to evaluate their own physical abilities. It is imperative to understand that even experienced trekkers will fall victim to some level of altitude sickness. The summit of Kilimanjaro is high enough that either high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) or high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) can occur. You should at least expect to experience shortage of breath, headaches and some elements of hypothermia. Taking 7 days versus 5 days creates a better chance for you to acclimate easier and reduce the altitude effects.
Further note: Although the summit of Kilimanjaro can be reached through a walk and is not technically a climb, it is still a strenuous trek. According to the Kilimanjaro National Park, only 41% of trekkers actually reach the peak. Plan, prepare and train if you look to explore Mount Kilimanjaro and experience this wonder of nature to the fullest .

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22. Zanzibar
I was in Zanzibar in April last year. It does rain, but usually there is a thunderstorm and heavy rain which lasts anything from 15 mins to an hour. Mostly we had fantastic weather although there was a particularly rainy day when they thought the tsunami that hit Indonesia was going to hit the Kenyan and Tz coasts. It is very humid though, be warned! H

http://zanzibarhostel.com/about/ H stayed in St Monica's Hostel in Stone Town and still has a contact there. It is certainly not luxury, but it is clean and reasonably priced and ok as a base. They also arranged most of our day trips and car hire or trips with drivers etc and got deals that we wouldn't have been able to get as regular tourists. (Accom is $50 for a dbl room with private bathroom and aircon more two pages on).
Zanzibar highlights by Rough Guide 1. Stone Town Africa meets the Orient a place where the line between reality + imagination can easily fade away 2. Spice tours see, touch, smell + taste Zanzibars famous spices, learn about their myriad uses + finish with a slap-up meal 3. Chumbe Island surrounding this coral island are some of worlds finest snorkelling reefs a perfect day trip 4. Jozani Forest cool tangle of vegetation containing troops of endangered red colobus monkeys (pic above) 5. Safari Blue great day out excursion from Fumba (SW): a dhow cruise, sailing in outriggers, snorkelling + lunch on an uninhabited isle 6. Beaches do nothing on a picture perfect beach. Faves are: Jambiani, Bwejuu, Matemwe + Kendwa 7. Scuba-diving Unguja + Pemba offer unforgettable underwater experiences

The Zanzibar archipelago is one of Africas most bewitching destinations: ~ its history is a visitors book of peoples from around the Indian Ocean + Mediterranean ~ famous cuisine ~ strange but fun cultural events incl Pembas Portuguese-style bullfights + Makunduchis Persian New Year celebrations. Unguja is the main island and the one with the best beaches. The historical Stone Town (known locally as Mji Mkongwe meaning Old Town), part of the capital Zanzibar Town, is an alluring Arabian-style labyrinth densely packed with mansions, palaces + bazaars, most constructed on the back of the C.19 th slave trade which Zanzibar controlled. Pemba, Ungujas sister island, 48km to the north, is quite a contrast. With few beaches to write home about, tourist facilities are limited so main reason for coming here is scuba-diving, or history buffs can poke around a host of medieval ruins dating from the height of the Swahili trading civilisation, or nature lovers have Ngezi Forest a dense tangle home to unique birds and the giant Pemba fruit bat. Arriving Stone Town is accessed by ferry from Dar es Salaam or Pemba, and by plane from several airports. Zanzibar International Airport is 7km south of town: ~ foreign exchange bureaux in arrivals hall has decent exchange rates + can change travellers cheques ~ until about 8pm you can catch daladalas from the traffic island beyond airport car park which go to Darajani on Creek Road (Tsh350). ~ Airports taxi drivers are shameless in overcharging: the normal tourist fare should be Tsh 12,000 (c. $10) with locals paying half that ~ bookings through tour operators or upmarket hotels are usually around $25 per vehicle Ferry port is at north end of Stone Town: ~ tourists are expected to clear immigration inside the port (farcical procedure given Zanzibar is part of Tanzania) ~ after filling in a form, your passport will be stamped for which theres no fee ~ taxis from harbour entrance shouldnt charge more than Tsh5000 for a ride around town. If walking stick to one of main roads flanking Stone Town for as long as poss before diving into the maze!

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Info, city transport and tours Theres no official tourist info centre but theres an unofficial help desk in the gatehouse of the Old Fort (daily 9am 5pm). Printed practical info is limited to the Swahili Coast - http://www.swahilicoast.com/ - free listings with good articles and tide tables so pick it up at hotels, restaurants, etc. Best way of exporing Stone Town is on foot. Distances are short, and in any case most of the streets are too narrow for cars. A city tour is a good way to get your bearings (3 hours, $20-30 per person). Accom includes: Hurumzi (originally the opulent Hurumzi House constructed by Tharia Topan, wealthy Indian businessman, responsible for the Old Dispensary and served as both the sultanates custom house and Topans private residence the 2nd highest building in Stone Town after the House of Wonders. Has rooftop restaurant and its the best place to see the colourful tower of Shiva Shakti Hindu Temple), Kiponda, Kokoni + Mchambawima The northern part of the old town is the most picturesque and easiest to get lost in. Khoja Charitable House Heading NE from Hurumzi towards Malawi Rd, architecture fans should definitely seek out Khoja Charitable House, dominating a square just off Dega Street. The huge carved door and door frame is a mind-bogglingly intricate and beautiful work of art, and easily Zanzibars fanciest. The doors inscription explains that it was founded in 1892 for use as a musafarkhana (a temporary rest house) for Khoja immigrants from India, most of whom arrived in the 1870s. Nowadays it serves as low-income housing so do ask if you want to take a photo or be shown around. Eating out ~Stone Town has amazing choice ~ famous nightly food market in the Forodhani Gardens ~ many sophisticated / romantic establishments incl several right by the shore + others on rooftops in old town ~ most feature Zanzibar cuisine: a subtle combination of the islands spices and coconuts and all manner of seafood ~ theres also pasta, pizza, Indian + Chinese (even burgers and chips) ~ the market on Creek Road + the daladala stand opposite are also handy for street food, especially in the morning for cupos of scalding uji (eleusine) porridge and savoury supu broth ~ in eves, stalls at the west end of Malawi Road cater to passengers catching night ferries ~ seek out a coffee baraza inside the old town for sth more traditional (beans are roasted, ground + brewed on the barazas (stone benches) lining the streets a tiny cup of Arabica costs Tsh50 or spiced tea called zamzam (named after a sacred well in Mecca). Throw in another coin + youll get a diamond-shaped chunk of kashata, sugared cashews, peanuts or coconut. ~ Jaws Corner is one of liveliest barazas at corner of Sokomuhogo and Baghani streets (name derives from film once shown on TV there) Forodhani Gardens For all its refined restaurants, the best place for eating out in Stone Town is the open-air street food market at Forodhani Gardens after sunset. Combines a magical twilight with a variety and quality of food to put many a five-star hotel to shame, though check seafood carefully before ordering in low season when its not always fresh. Tsh5000 should leave you well and truly stuffed. That said, dont necessarily believe starting prices: its that ever-endearing Zanzibari habit of asking a special price, my friend of tourists. Chicken schwarma, etc. Budget eating places A full meal with soft drinks at the following shouldnt cost more than Tsh 12,000. For cheaper eats, try one o f the basic eateries along New Mkunazini Road, coming from Creek Road.
~ Buni Cafe under the orphanage, Forodhani. Good place for breaking an afternoons wander in a high-ceilinged room with rattling fans, or on the veranda outside. Has ambitious menu but is best for light meals + snacks incl vege burgers + fajitas, fresh juices + ice-cream. No alcohol. ~ Clove Garden Facing Clove Hotel, Hurumzi St. Lots of plastic chairs and tables under parasols + palm trees, good for typical mainland meals. ~ Dophin Restaurant Kenyatta Rd, Shangani. Attractive place with a chatty African grey parrot. Good value by local standards, even if portions arent huge. Try the daily special: things like crab claws, biriani or pilau, octopus, or green lentils with fish. A la carte is mostly Swahili or Thai-style seafood. Finish your meal with a shisha pipe. No alcohol. ~ Luis Yoghurt Parlour & Restaurant Gizenga St, beside Gallery Bookshop, Baghani. Quiet little place run by a friendly Goan woman with the kitchen equivalent of green fingers (try the octopus). Good for vegetarians too, with the thali featuring several types of lentils, and curried beans. Closed Sundays. ~ Old Fort Restaurant Ngome Kongwe (Old Fort) Forodhani St. Relaxed if somewhat ignored place for lunch, with outdoor tables beside the amphitheatre. Tends to change tenants and menus every couple of years but for now it offers a good if slightly pricey

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selection of Asian-Swahili fusion cuisine. Try the barracuda coco poa in coconut masala, or red snapper in green (sth)... amazing selection. Cheap by local standards, and with a good lunchtime special for Tsh 6000. No pork. ~ Passing Show Hotel Malawi Rd, Malindi. Looks like a typical Tanzanian restaurant with linoleum-topped tables, metal-legged furniture and TVs in corner. So it is but the ruckus of diners that make it difficult to find a table at lunchtime is a clue about the food: excellent, cheap and generously portioned. The pilau, biriani and stews are particularly good, including fish or cashew nuts in coconut sauce. Nothing much over Tsh 3500. No alcohol. ~ Radha Food House Off Forodhani St beside Karibu Inn, Forodhani. Vege Indian restaurant famed for its thali, and snacks including samosas, spring rolls, lentil or chickpea cakes, refreshing lassi and perfumed sweets. ~ Stone Town Cafe* Kenyatta Rd. Great place for a light meal or snack, or an all-day breakfast, albeit of the healthy variety. Except for salads, its well priced, and the menu includes quite divine cakes, real coffee (cappuccino, espresso, or cardamom -laced), falafel, grilled kingfish with olive tapenade or fillet steak with anchovy garlic, both of these costing a very reasonable Tsh7500. Finish with a sticky toffee pudding see http://www.stonetowncafe.com/ ~ Zanzibar Coffee House Tharia St, Mchambawima. Relaxed and relaxing, sophisticated without being suffocating, and owned by Utengule Coffee Estate near Mbeya, this guarantees excellent Arabica, some of which is roasted round the back. ~ Archipelago Restaurant (*Stone Town Cafes sister restaurant) - since its establishment in 2004, Archipelago has become the busiest restaurant in Zanzibar, and thats saying something! We take pride in the simplicity of our cooking our ethos is to take the freshest ingredients, and present them simply and thereby let the flavours speak for themselves. Owner and executive chef, Masoud Salim was born and raised in Zanzibar. After studying and working in Sydney, Australia as a chef, he returned home to this idyllic paradise. Masoud worked in kitchens of Sydneys leading restaurants incl Vaucluse House and Waters Edge at Sydney Harbour. ~ Hot Spot Bistro Shangani district upscale bistro offering simple, quality food. Specialties: fresh Indian Ocean seafood and bistro favourites such as filling meal-sized salads, wraps and burgers. For a morning pick-me-up, we have a wide selection of hot and cold coffee beverages from our espresso machine, such as our popular sweetened almond latte. Granita slush chillers are the perfect treat to cool off after a day of tropical sun, along with milkshakes, smoothies, and ice cold sodas. See http://www.hotspotbistro.net/

The Rock restaurant, near Pingwe, main Zanzibar island

The restaurant sits atop a big rock just off the coast at Michamvi Beach on the island of Zanzibar. Previously a fishermans post for many years, The Rock was transformed in 2010 when a group of partners took over. In a major restoration, the restaurant was decorated in the traditional style of the area and restrooms and a kitchen were installed. Since then the guests have never stopped coming. The restaurant has become one of the symbols of Zanzibar and a must visit for many tourists. When the tide is low you can walk to the stairs that lead up to the restaurant but a high tide you have two options: either go by a small boat or swim. Guests in bathing suits are not an uncommon sight at The Rock. You can dry off on the outdoor balcony and enjoy a chilled glass of white wine as you take in the fabulous view of the Indian Ocean with its many colours. SURPRISE - While sipping your wine you, have a look at the menu. It comes as no surprise that this place is all about seafood. The menu is not extensive, but there is something for everyone, with fresh salads, pastas and lots of freshly caught fi sh. You can choose between crab, lobster, grilled fi sh and prawns. I opted for the grilled lobster with a side order of fries and a small salad and I was not disappointed. Served with a piece of lemon, the lobster tasted delicious and that, along with the wonderful view from our table, made it the best meal I had enjoyed so far in Zanzibar. Prices are a little higher than in many other Zanzibar restaurants. But you are not just buying a meal, you are buying an experience in a place that has become a landmark. A price tag of US$ 25 for a grilled lobster is not expensive compared with many Western restaurants; and lobster is one of the most expensive items on the menu. Come to The Rock for the food, the wine and the breathtaking view. This is not so much a seaside restaurant, more a restaurant in the sea. BOOKINGS - The Rock Restaurant has 12 tables for guests. For reservations call +255 (0)779 909 855 www.therockrestaurantzanzibar.com

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ACCOM - St Monicas, Stone Town - http://zanzibarhostel.com/about/ St. Monicas is in Mkunazini in the heart of Stone Town. You will enjoy exploring the cobble stone paths, curio shops and eateries make up the life of Stone Town. Within walking distance of the major tourist attractions and historic sites.

Fumba Beach Lodge - http://www.fumbabeachlodge.com/index.html suggest staying for last 2 days - dependent on the price at Fumba, but again they are negotiable. Two of our group spent the night there - the rest of us spent the day there and had a fantastic meal before heading back to Stone Town. Accom at the Fumba Lodge is $105pppn (theyve offered a 15% discount, so $90) for a double room on a b&b basis (single is US $140 minus 15%). Stay there for last 2 nights.
Fumba Beach Hotel was pretty deserted when we were there just after Easter in 2012. I think there was 1 family staying there! I was chatting to the owner's girlfriend who is a South African girl, and they told me they like the remoteness of their location, and don't want zillions of tourists, so they don't actively market the place. Interesting business concept! Did I tell you that we happened upon this place quite by chance? We were walking along the beach and swimming and walking some more, when someone saw some stairs going up from the beach. They went up them, only to discover this oasis. As they had so few customers they said we could hang out there for the day and use their pool and loungers etc as long as we used their bar facilities. We had plenty of delicious cocktails around the pool and then stayed for dinner which was the best meal we'd had in 3 months. H

On one of Zanzibars most secluded beaches is a luxurious, imaginative, peaceful hideaway. Set on forty acres of the Menai beach conservation area, Fumba beach peninsula is both a large marine haven, and an eco-project. The essence of Fumba is privacy, relaxation, serenity, excellence and attention to detail. Fumba peninsula is designated an area of outstanding natural beauty since 1998, by the World Wild Life Federation. Fumba Beach Lodge offers well-designed elegance, with friendly first class service. Just 30 minutes from the capital, Stone Town, the lodge is away from busy tourist areas, a perfect venue for enjoying tranquillity, and the space to dream, swim, dive, walk amongst tropical gardens, or have that special romantic occasion in one of the many secluded spots. There are ample opportunities to dine- in a range of environments, with legendary food prepared by trained chefs. 56

Fumba Beach Lodge

Alternative accom US $50 a night for a 2-bed apartment (whole apartment, private through airbnb) https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/244330
The flat for rental is part of a nineteenth-century Omani mansion situated right in the heart of Zanzibar Stone Town, Tanzania, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since the year 2000. Nowadays, these old Omani houses are inhabited by many local families who share a space which was once the home of wealthy traders. Living in this flat allows, among other things, close contact with these Swahili families. The building sits between Kiponda and Malindi areas, a five-minute walk from the seafront and the fish market. It is a traditional Omani mansion with very thick walls of coral rag and lime mortar and quite a number of magnificent carved wooden doors in the interior, the Zanzibar doors which have become more or less synonym with Swahili culture. The flat has been renovated in 2009, exhibiting its original ceiling made of mangrove poles, elaborate windows with latticed metal and Zanzibar louvers and walls with beautiful Arab style niches. It comprises two main rooms: a conventional double bedroom and a second room which includes a double bed, and a sitting/dining area. It has also a bathroom with hot shower, fans in every room, and a fully-equipped kitchen, with electric cooker, oven and fridge. Tableware, bed linen and mosquito nets are also supplied .

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23. Itineraries

Fri 29 March:

Sat 30 Mar, fastjet flight to Mwanza at 15:00, arr. 16:30

~ Sun 7 to Thurs 12 in Zanzibar

~ Fri 12 April: Leave Dar by hydrofoil (at 12:30?)

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24. Maps + useful links

Internal airlines
- http://www.precisionairtz.com/ - ZanAir from Arusha direct to Zanzibar c. 100 pp (scheduled) Safaris ~ Serengeti safari trips from Mwanza: - http://www.safari-consultants.co.uk/destinations/tanzania - http://www.vicconsultsafaris.com/Iternaries.html#Mwanza Serengeti and national parks: - http://www.serengeti.org/ - http://www.tanzaniaparks.com/serengeti.html Wiki portals + travel forums: - Malawi - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portal:Malawi and - Tanzania - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portal:Tanzania Trip Advisor (eg Dar hotels) - http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Hotels-g293748-Dar_es_Salaam_Dar_Es_Salaam_Region-Hotels.html Victoria Falls are on Zambesi River between Zimbabwe and Zambia (Livingstone)- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Victoria_Falls Zanzibar + travel routes/ itineraries - Rock restaurant (near Pingwe) - http://www.therockrestaurantzanzibar.com/ - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zanzibar - http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/2008/09/world-travel/africa/zanzibar-costas-christ-text Intrepid routes (samples) - http://www.intrepidtravel.com/africa - Africa main menu - http://www.intrepidtravel.com/search/trip?f[0]=im_field_pp_destinations%3A36650&f[1]=im_field_pp_region%3A4116 - Malawi, Zanzibar to Victoria Falls - http://www.intrepidtravel.com/search/trip?f[0]=im_field_pp_destinations%3A36985&f[1]=im_field_pp_region%3A4116 - Tanzania, Zanzibar trip - http://www.intrepidtravel.com/tanzania - http://www.myadventurestore.co.uk/product/2297817 - explore the Serengetis game filled plains, meet colourful Maasai tribes, gaze skyward at
snow-capped Kilimanjaro and dive into the spice markets and clear Indian Ocean on idyllic Zanzibar. This tour has it all! Come experience the magic of Tanzania on an adventure through this exciting corner of Africa. - - iitinerary is Dar es Salaam * Zanzibar * Arusha * Serengeti National Park * Olduvai Gorge * Ngorongoro Crater * Arusha * Nairobi Tanzania's size, diversity and wealth of natural attractions make it one of Africa's most rewarding countries to visit. From the mountainous north, home of Mount Kilimanjaro, to the vast Serengeti which sees the annual migration of millions of wildebeest and zebre, a visit to Tanzania promises to delight.

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Dar es Salaam - downtown, showing Tanzania Executive Suites and New Africa Hotel & Thai restaurant

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