1969 Triumph TR6

EXHAUST FUME SHIELD

RESTORATION PROJECT: DEC 2007

Restoration began Jan 2006

 1969 TR6 RESTORATION
December 2007: Exhaust Fume Shield Design Drawing

I carefully measured the dimensions inside the car with the top
fully closed. My concept was for a removeable Exhaust Fume
Shield , should maintenance be needed.
 EXHAUST FUME SHIELD
SAFE HARBOUR STATEMENT:
This “How I installed it” essay is presented as
general information and has been prepared by a
Triumph TR6 owner with very limited auto mechanic
knowledge. The procedures shown in this document
are not professional instructions and are not intended
to be such. The EXHAUST FUME SHIELD for a
1969 Triumph TR6 was successfully designed, fabri-
cated and installed with these amateur procedures
and I was not injured during the process.
The following essay documents the design, fabrica-
tion and installation of an exhaust fume shield
located behind the twin seats in the car’s cockpit. The
exhaust fume shield is nonstructural and is not
intended to be a roll bar. It will offer no protection in
the event of an auto accident.
EXHAUST FUME SHIELD:
I designed this exhaust fume shield in an attempt to
create a barrier that might help keep some of the
exhaust fumes from entering the interior portion of the
car. Folks with asthma, allergies or other chronic lung
conditions are sometimes bothered by the exhaust
fumes which somehow seem to roll forward across
the trunk surface of the TR250 and TR6 models. I am
one of those folks; therefore my design attempt.
Better quality air: This was my primary design crite-
ria. After installation, I immediately noticed a higher
air quality while driving the car. From this standpoint,
my design is functional. It also seems to act as a wind
barrier and the car interior is quieter and cooler on
hot driving days. (Unintended bonus for sure !)
I also wanted the fume shield to compliment the sleek
lines of the Triumph TR6 and not detract from the
overall “sexy/racy” appearance.
I live in an climate prone to sudden rain downpours. I
attempted to design the exhaust fume shield so as to
fit beneath the convertible top when fully closed. I
also wanted to be able to remove the shield for
routine maintenance. I accomplished both design
tasks.
For the average Triumph owner with limited or no
mechanical skills, such as this author, fabricating this
shield is beyond our capabilities. I gave my design
drawing to a professional, marine shop for bending
and welding.
The frame is fabricated from 1 1/2” outside diameter,
marine grade, structural aluminum tube. I specified
mill finish surface because it would be painted. I used
aluminum because it is easier to bend and less costly
than stainless steel. The fume shield is not a roll bar
so high strength was not an issue for the frame.
The two mounting brackets are fabricated from 1/4”
thickness, marine grade, stainless steel plate with
1 1/2” inside diameter , stainless steel holders.
I specified stainless for the mounting brackets simply
because it is stronger than aluminum. I was
concerned about the overturning moment upon the
welds at the base of the two support legs.
The fabrication was exactly to my design drawing and
I paid $250 for the finished frame.
 EXHAUST FUME SHIELD
This is not a particularly difficult project since most of
the work is performed by specific professionals.
Most car owners can easily paint the frame and
mounting brackets and install the Lexan window. No
special tools are required other than a 5/16” UNF
diameter thread tap that is readily available at stores
like Sears. An electric drill and socket set are the
installation tools needed.
Fume Shield & Mounting Brackets:
Before I paid and left the frame fabricator, we dry fit
the fume shield frame and fully raised the convertible
top to verify clearances. My design permits shorten-
ing of the two support legs if needed. My design
measurements were correct, the fabrication was
exactly as designed and no adjustments were
needed. I was well pleased with my design shape.
Fume Shield & Mounting Brackets:
The independent supports and noncontinuous oval
Shape allow for car body twisting movement.
P 3
The window material for my fume shield is fabricated
from 1/4” thickness, clear polycarbonate (Lexan).
The Lexan material was used because it is not as
prone to fracturing and cracking as some of the less
expensive plastic sheet stock. I paid $120 for this.
I did not attempt to cut and shape the Lexan to final
shape myself. I took the aluminum frame to a custom
plastic fabricator for cutting. The Lexan window is
exactly the same dimensions as the outside edge of
the aluminum frame. This overlap of the tubing
centerline is what allows space for the bolts and
washers. It also makes it easier to properly center
the Lexan on the frame for final installation.
The Lexan comes with a thin plastic protection sheet
on both sides. I left the plastic in-place in order to
scribe the location of the bolt holes I needed to drill
and to help prevent splitting. I used the vertical
surface of a coffee mug to ensure the Lexan and
frame were properly lined up. Lexan WILL split if you
attempt to drill a large hole. I began with a 1/8” pilot.
 EXHAUST FUME SHIELD
After the 1/8” pilot holes were drilled it was time to
paint the frame and mounting brackets. Primer, three
coats of car body red and two clear coats.

Temporary Placement Studs:

I had the Lexan cut to the exact footprint of the

outside edge of the 1 1/2” OD tubular frame. I figured
that would make it easier to set the Lexan window in
an exactly centered position. Also, I anticipated I
might have difficulty determining the exact centerline
of the tubing when it came time to drill the bolt pilot
holes. The footprint concept worked very well.

As seen in the photo above, a coffee cup easily

provides the proper vertical stop for the horizontal
positioning of the Lexan.

I marked off a points 3/4” in from the outside edge

and equidistance from the window centerline. I
slowly drilled a 1/8” pilot hole thru the Lexan and
aluminum tubing frame, as shown above. I then
unchucked the bit and left it in the hole.

I purchased a 6-pack of 1/8” spiral bits to use them
as placement studs. I slowly pulled the drill bit out of
the first pilot hole, while holding the Lexan tightly
against the frame. Then I inserted the spiral stud and
drilled the remaining pilot holes in the same manner.
The Lexan fabricator instructed me to leave the
plastic protection sheet in-place while drilling or
cutting. None of my holes split the Lexan, so that was
sound advice.
Enlarge Pilot Holes
My design detail specified 5/16” UNF bolts. My next
step was to enlarge the holes in the Lexan and alumi-
num frame to 1/4” diameter. I unchucked the first 1/4”
bit and left it in-place as a placement stud. I enlarged
the remaining four holes for a total of five holes in the
upper half of the frame.
 EXHAUST FUME SHIELD
P 5

Fasten Lexan to Frame:

I fastened the Lexan window piece to the frame using

Tap Threads into Bolt Holes:
I tapped 5/16” UNF threads into the 1/4” pilot holes
because I wanted to attempt to attach the Lexan
window without thru-bolting it. I thought thru-bolts
would detract from the clean lines of the frame when
viewed from the front side of the car.
Even with the sturdy marine grade aluminum tubing,
fine threads with steel bolts provide minimal pullout
resistance. I figured if the wind caused the Lexan
piece to pull out, I could always go back and thru bolt
the exhaust fume frame.
5/16 UNF bolts and 3/4” diameter steel washers.
I had previously spray painted the bolts and washers
flat black. I finger tightened the bolts until all five
began to compress the reinforced rubber washers.
Then I used a 9/16” open end wrench to slightly
tighten the bolts a bit more; to maybe 2 pounds. I did
not want to risk cracking the Lexan this close to
project completion.

Finally, I enlarged the pilot holes in the Lexan

window to matching 5/16”. Lexan is brittle and prone
to stress cracking radiating from holes drilled thru it.
To lessen this possibility, I hand cut 3/4” , fabric
reinforced rubber washers to act as shock absorbers
between the Lexan and the metal frame. It is difficult
to see the black rubber washer so I have highlighted
it in blue. You get the idea.

The bottom portion of the aluminum frame touches

the soft top cover. I did not install steel bolts at these
two location because I did not want vibration to rub
twin holes in the material. I inserted rubber shims,
which work just fine.
 EXHAUST FUME SHIELD

I attached the exhaust fume shield to the car by thru- I call this project a success. Exhaust fumes no longer
bolting 3/8” UNF bolts with nyloks and washers on bother my lungs, the car interior is quieter and cooler
the underside. The frame is centered on the shelf on hot driving days. Also, I think the frame design
behind the two seats. I placed the car on jack stands looks appealing to the eye. My total cost for this
for safety. Installing these thru bolts requires two project was right at $400.
people.
One person keeping the bolt head from moving while
the person under the car tightens to nylok. I now must
trim the carpet.

BCF Pennsylvania member Frank A. test drives

the car with the new Exhaust Fume Shield. No
fumes enter the passenger seat either.