1

A
Word Category
Short
Description
Description
A.B.C. SILK fabrics A dainty,
opaque fabric in
plain weave
A dainty, opaque
fabric in plain
weave, with cotton
warp and spun silk
weft. Made in white
and solid colours,
they are used
mainly for
underwear and as
lining material.
AAL processes,
operations
A reddish colour
dyestuff
A reddish colour
dyestuff obtained
from the roots of
shrubs morinda
tinctoria and
morinda citrifolia.
AATCC general American
Association of
Textile Chemists
and Colorists
American
Association of
Textile Chemists
and Colorists
ABACA FIBRE fibers, filaments,
yarns
See Manila
hemp.
See Manila hemp.
ABACAXI FIBRE fibers, filaments,
yarns
pineapple fibre The Brazilian name
for pineapple fibre
ABASSI FIBRE fibers, filaments,
yarns
A variety of
Egyptian cotton.
A variety of
Egyptian cotton.
Pure white, about
3cm long brilliant
staple of good
quality.
ABATTRE fabrics A French term
for types of
quilted or
depressed
effects in fabrics
A French term for
types of quilted or
depressed effects
in fabrics
ABBOT fabrics Also called
Monks cloth. A
heavy, rough
surfaced,
hardwearing,
Also called Monks
cloth. A heavy,
rough surfaced,
hardwearing,
loosely woven,
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loosely woven,
basket weave
fabric in solid
colours.
basket weave fabric
in solid colours.
Sometimes stripes
or plaids are woven
into the fabric.
Made of cotton or
linen. It tends to
lose shape under
pressure, due to
the looseness of
weave. Use
confined to
curtains, loose
covers, etc
ABBOTSFORD fabrics Dress-weight
fabric with
muted check
design.
Dress-weight fabric
with muted check
design. One side is
slightly napped.
Usually made from
cotton, wool,
viscose, modal or
acrylic
ABDIG fabrics A plain weave
dress fabric
A plain weave
dress fabric made
with cotton warp
and a wool filling.
ABERCROMBIE fabrics Scottish tartan
fabric woven
with a blue and
black ground
and green and
white over-
check.
Scottish tartan
fabric woven with a
blue and black
ground and green
and white over-
check. Medium
weight, usually not
heavy enough for
outerwear.
Originally all-wool,
but now may
contain a proportion
of polyester or
acrylic fibre. Used
for kilts, pleated
skirts, bias-cut
skirts, pinafore
dresses, childrens
clothes.
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ABERDEEN fibers, filaments,
yarns
A yarn size
numbering
system for
heavy yarns of
wool, jute, etc.
A yarn size
numbering system
for heavy yarns of
wool, jute, etc. now
used only
occasionally.
ABESTRINE fabrics A fabric name
that may be
applied to cloth
made of
asbestos.
A fabric name that
may be applied to
cloth made of
asbestos.
ABRADED YARN fibers, filaments,
yarns
Continuous
filament yarn
been subjected
to abrading
action
Continuous filament
yarn been
subjected to
abrading action,
generally to provide
it with hairiness
characteristic of a
staple-fibre yarn
ABRASION processes,
operations
The wearing
away of any part
of a material
The wearing away
of any part of a
material by rubbing
against another
surface.
ABRASION MARK defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Also
called Chafe mark.
An area of localised
wear, where the
fabric has been
damaged by friction
ABRASION RESISTANCE fibers, filaments,
yarns,fabrics
The degree to
which a yarn or
fabric is able to
withstand
surface wear
The degree to
which a yarn or
fabric is able to
withstand surface
wear due to rubbing
or chafing with
another surface.
Comparative
abrasion resistance
of various fibres
are:
ABRASIVE FABRICS fabrics A general term
for cotton fabrics
used as
backings for
A general term for
cotton fabrics used
as backings for
various abrasive
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various abrasive
and polishing
agents
and polishing
agents. Usually
sheetings and drills
are employed
extensively and
twills in smaller
quantities. The
fabric is coated on
one side with
emery
carboraundum or
other such abrasive
grit. These are
largely used on
industrial machine
polishing of metals.
ABRAWAN fabrics very fine grade
flowing Dacca
muslin
Name for a very
fine grade flowing
Dacca muslin
ABSOLUTE HUMIDITY general The mass of
water vapour
present in a unit
volume of moist
air.
The mass of water
vapour present in a
unit volume of
moist air.
ABSORBENCY general The propensity
of a material to
take in and
retain a liquid
The propensity of a
material to take in
and retain a liquid,
usually water, in the
pores and
interstices of the
material
ABSORBENT COTTON fibers, filaments,
yarns
Cotton fibres
from which
natural wax and
fats are
removed by
chemical
treatment
Cotton fibres from
which natural wax
and fats are
removed by
chemical treatment
to make it
absorbent. Used
mainly for surgical
dressings
ABSORBENT FINISH processes,
operations
A type of
finishing in
which the fabric
is treated
chemically
A type of finishing
in which the fabric
is treated
chemically to
increase its ability
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to absorb liquids
ABSORPTION processes,
operations
A process in
which one
material (the
absorbent) takes
in or
incorporates
another material
(the absorbate)
within itself
A process in which
one material (the
absorbent) takes in
or incorporates
another material
(the absorbate)
within itself; such
as the absorption of
moisture by fibres.
ABSORPTION FABRIC fabrics See Brattice
cloth
See Brattice cloth
ABSTERGENT processes,
operations
A cleaning
substance.
A cleaning
substance. See
Detergent.
ACACIA fibers, filaments,
yarns
Coarse bast
fibres taken from
a genus of
shrubs and trees
found in warm
climates.
Coarse bast fibres
taken from a genus
of shrubs and trees
found in warm
climates. These
shrubs also yield
printing gums and
some natural
dyestuffs
ACCELERANT processes,
operations
A substance
such as a
swelling agent,
A substance,
usually a swelling
agent, which,
added to a dye-
bath or printing
paste, accelerates
the diffusion of a
dye into a
substance. Also
may be used to
increase the rate of
reaction in chemical
finishing
ACCELOROTOR apparatus,
equipage, tools
A device for
rapid evaluation
of abrasion
resistance of
textiles.
A device for rapid
evaluation of
abrasion resistance
of textiles.
ACCEPTABLE QUALITY
LEVEL
general the process
average at
which the risk of
Also referred as
AQL. In acceptance
sampling, the
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rejection is
called the
Producers risk.
maximum fraction
of non-conforming
items at which the
process average
can be considered
satisfactory; the
process average at
which the risk of
rejection is called
the Producers risk.
ACCORDION FABRIC fabrics Weft-knitted
fabric, showing
a figure design
in two or more
colours
Weft-knitted fabric,
showing a figure
design in two or
more colours, that
is produced on one
set of needles by
knitting and missing
and in which tuck
loops are
introduced to
eliminate long
lengths of floating
thread at the back.
ACCORDION PLEATS garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Narrow straight
pleats in a fabric
usually parallel
to one another
Narrow straight
pleats in a fabric
usually parallel to
one another. Used
mainly in skirts and
dresses.
ACCORDION STITCH fabrics A term used to
describe fabrics
produced on
circular top
(single needle
jersey)
machines.
A term used to
describe fabrics
produced on
circular top (single
needle jersey)
machines. The
pattern
incorporates knit,
tuck and welt
ACETA fibers, filaments,
yarns
Spun acetate
containing
casein
Spun acetate
containing casein.
Increased strength,
rough surfaces, and
crimp are achieved
by changing
physical properties
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of the fibre.
ACETATE fibers, filaments,
yarns
Manufactured
fibre, in which
the fibre-forming
substance is
cellulose
acetate.
Manufactured fibre,
in which the fibre-
forming substance
is cellulose acetate.
Where not less
than 92 % of the
hydroxyl groups are
acetylated, the term
Triacetate may be
used as a generic
description of the
fibre
ACETATE ANHYDRIDE Anhydrous
acetic acid.
Anhydrous acetic
acid. Used in the
manufacture of
cellulose acetate.
ACETATE DYES Acetate yarns
and fabrics,
when developed
first, required a
special type of
dye since they
could not be
coloured with
types then
known.
Acetate yarns and
fabrics, when
developed first,
required a special
type of dye since
they could not be
coloured with types
then known. A
separate group of
dyes was
developed which
became known as
acetate colours.
These dyes have
been found useful
for dyeing synthetic
fibres. The term
Disperse dyes has
been widely
adopted to describe
them more
accurately.
ACETATE FABRIC fabrics Woven and
knitted fabrics,
made of acetate
fibres.
Woven and knitted
fabrics, made of
acetate fibres.
Comfortable to
wear and has very
good draping
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properties. Not
affected by moths
or mildew.
Inflammable, but
many fabrics,
especially those for
furnishings, are
made with greatly
reduced
flammability. On its
own, acetate is not
hardwearing. It
creases, but tends
to recover well.
Often mixed with
other fibres
including cotton,
viscose and nylon,
to produce very
interesting textures
and colourings.
Used for a wide
variety of uses
including dress-
fabrics, linings,
ribbons and
furnishing
materials.
ACETONE A volatile,
flammable
organic liquid.
A volatile,
flammable organic
liquid. It is used as
a solvent for
organic
compounds, and in
the manufacture of
acetate staple and
yarn, where it forms
the solvent for the
cellulose acetate
compound in the
dry spinning
process
ACETYL Basic element in
acetic acid,
cellulose acetate
and triacetate.
Basic element in
acetic acid,
cellulose acetate
and triacetate.
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ACETYLATED COTTON fibers, filaments,
yarns
Cotton fibre that
has been
chemically
processed
Cotton fibre that
has been
chemically
processed so that
the fibre has the
dyeing and water-
resistant qualities of
acetate staple. See
Acetylation
ACETYLATION processes,
operations
The process by
which an acetyl
radical is
introduced into
an organic
molecule
The process by
which an acetyl
radical is
introduced into an
organic molecule;
the process of
combining cellulose
with acetic acid.
See Partial
acetylating.
ACEYTUNI fabrics A medieval
name for satin.
A medieval name
for satin.
ACHROMATIC COLOURS general Colours such as
grey, slate,
white
Colours such as
grey, slate, white as
opposed to the
Chromatic colours
such as blue,
yellow, red
ACID A chemical
compound
which will
neutralise an
alkali.
A chemical
compound which
will neutralise an
alkali. Acids are
commonly used in
bleaching, dyeing
and printing. Strong
acids dissolve
vegetable fibres
ACID COLOURS fibres containing
cationic groups.
Anionic dyes
characterised by
substantivity for
protein, polyamide
or other fibres
containing cationic
groups. Usually
applied from an
acidic or neutral
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aqueous dye-bath.
Acid dyes are:
suitable for wool,
silk, polyamide, and
elastomeric fibres
suitable for
cellulose acetate
and cellulose
triacetate, but the
usage is declining
suitable for viscose
rayon fibres, but
lacks fastness and
now obsolete
ACID FADING processes,
operations
See
Atmospheric
fading.
See Atmospheric
fading.
ACID MILLING COLOURS Dyestuffs Dyestuffs that when
applied to wool, are
fast to soaping,
milling, fulling,
scouring finishes.
ACID RESISTANCE fabrics A quality which
certain fibres
have more than
other
A quality which
certain fibres have
more than others;
e.g. the animal
fibres are certainly
more acid-resistant
than the vegetable
fibres, and a high
degree of acid-
resistance is found
in several of the
new man-made
fibres such as
acrylic fibre and
vinyl resin fibre.
ACME fibers, filaments,
yarns
A variety of raw
cotton that has
been grown in
Mississippi.
A variety of raw
cotton that has
been grown in
Mississippi. The
staple is fairly long
and but of inferior
quality.
ACRILAN fibers, filaments, A trade name for A trade name for a
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yarns a brand of
acrylic staple
and filament
fibres
brand of acrylic
staple and filament
fibres
ACROMION garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Garment-related
term.
Garment-related
term. See under
Garment sizing
system
ACRYLIC fibers, filaments,
yarns
Generic name of
a manufactured
fibre, in which
the fibre-forming
substance is any
long chain
synthetic
polymer
composed of at
least 85 % by
weight of
recurring
acrylonitrile
units.
Generic name of a
manufactured fibre,
in which the fibre-
forming substance
is any long chain
synthetic polymer
composed of at
least 85 % by
weight of recurring
acrylonitrile units.
Of all man-made
fibres it is the
closest to wool.
Used alone or with
natural and other
man-made fibres to
make wool-like
fabrics and jersey
and other knitted
fabrics. Acrylic
fibres are
flammable, but not
dangerously. It
melts when ignited
and decompose
without the
dripping found in
nylon or polyester.
Virtually all present-
day acrylic fibres
contain along with
polyacrylonitrile, a
very small
proportion of
another constituent
(the identity of
which is usually not
disclosed by the
12
manufacturer), for
improving the
processing
efficiency,
especially of
dyeing. The
variation of these
extra constituents,
in composition and
proportion, causes
different response
to processes, such
as dyeing, between
various types of
acrylic fibre very
much greater than
with other types of
synthetic fibre.
ACRYLIC FABRIC fabrics Soft, light, bulky
with woolly
handle
Soft, light, bulky
with woolly handle.
Absorbent, warm,
resistant to mildew
and moths. Easily
washed and
drycleanable.
Fabrics have
tendency to pill
after some wear
and knitted acrylics
easily lose their
shape. Skirts may
seat and trousers
may bag at the
knees. The
sensitivity of acrylic
materials to
stretching when in
warm moist
condition demands
careful washing
temperature control
and flat drying.
Ironing of these
fabrics is done
carefully at a cool
setting to avoid
13
distortion and
glazing.
ACRYLIC J ERSEY fabrics Knitted fabric,
soft, warm,
absorbent, and
even warmer if
the back is
brushed or
fleeced.
Knitted fabric, soft,
warm, absorbent,
and even warmer if
the back is brushed
or fleeced. Usually
in bright stripes as
the right side is
rather dull and
unattractive if in
plain colours. Used
for leisure clothes,
jogging suits, robes
and dressing
gowns. Not
hardwearing;
trousers may bag.
ACRYLIC KNIT fabrics A wide variety of
fabrics made
from acrylic
fibre, but often
containing small
percentages of
other fibres
A wide variety of
fabrics made from
acrylic fibre, but
often containing
small percentages
of other fibres.
Linen and suede
fibres are often
added to acrylic to
make the fabrics
look better, and
also to provide
stability. Designs
include fine and
heavy ribs, lacy and
crochet effects and
open, often marled
effect fabrics
resembling hand-
knits. Though soft
and comfortable to
wear; most tend to
lose their shape.
Trousers bag and
dresses seat,
hence they are
allowed to re-shape
between wearings.
14
Used for leisure
clothes, sweaters,
tops and sweater
dresses.
ACRYLIC RESIN A polymer of
acrylonitrile.
A polymer of
acrylonitrile. Used
in the manufacture
of man-made fibres
as a finish and size.
ACRYLIC SHEER fabrics Heavy, rather
stringy open-
weave vision
net, for curtains
Heavy, rather
stringy open-weave
vision net, for
curtains, often in
two-colour plain
weave. Acrylic fibre
is very soft and
difficult to press,
but firmer net of this
kind contains about
20% of flax, which
improves its texture
and handle. Others
contain polyester,
which behaves like
scaffolding
ACRYLIC-VINYL fibers, filaments,
yarns
A man-made
fibre
A man-made fibre
made of copolymer
consisting of 40%
acrylonitrile and
60% of vinyl
chloride. Available
in staple form; used
in industrial fabrics,
blankets, knit
goods, etc
ACRYLONITRILE The raw material
for an important
range of man-
made fibres.
The raw material
for an important
range of man-made
fibres. A liquid
derived from air
and natural gas.
ACTINIC DEGRADATION processes,
operations
A weakening or
deterioration of
fibre
A weakening or
deterioration of
fibre due to
exposure to
15
ultraviolet rays of
the sun particularly,
or artificial light.
ACTINIC RESISTANCE processes,
operations
Ability of textile
to retain
strength
Ability of textile to
retain strength and
desist deterioration
when exposed to
sunlight.
ACTUAL BREAKING
STRESS
general See under
Breaking stress.
See under Breaking
stress.
AD-HOCK processes,
operations
Block printing in
colours over a
J acquard
design.
1. Same as
Overprint.
2. Block printing in
colours over a
J acquard design.
ADD-ON general The mass of
solids, of any
material,
chemical finish,
coating, sizing,
etc., that is left
on a given
weight of fabric
after
impregnation
and drying.
The mass of solids,
of any material,
chemical finish,
coating, sizing, etc.,
that is left on a
given weight of
fabric after
impregnation and
drying. Besides
impregnation, fabric
may be sprayed,
lick-roller coated, or
foamed and coated
resulting in the
deposition of a
solute.
The use of the
terms Pick-up and
Wet pick-up to
denote the weight
of solids taken up
by a fabric is
deprecated.
ADDITION
POLYMERISATION
processes,
operations
The formation of
a polymer by
reaction of a
compound or
compounds
without the
formation of
The formation of a
polymer by reaction
of a compound or
compounds without
the formation of
other reaction
products.
16
other reaction
products.
See also
Polymerisation and
Condensation
polymerisation
ADELAIDE WOOLS fibers, filaments,
yarns
Adelaide wools
find use in high
quality worsteds
made from very
fine, choice
fibres.
Obtained from
around the city of
Adelaide, the wool
is slightly lower in
quality when
compared with Port
Philip and Sydney
wools raised in
Australia. Adelaide
wools find use in
high quality
worsteds made
from very fine,
choice fibres.
ADHESION general The property
denoting the
ability of a
material to resist
delamination or
separation into
two or more
layers.
The property
denoting the ability
of a material to
resist delamination
or separation into
two or more layers.
ADHESION TEST general A test to assess
the force
required per unit
width to
separate layers
of coated or
laminated
fabrics
A test to assess the
force required per
unit width to
separate layers of
coated or laminated
fabrics
ADHESIVE-ACTIVATED
YARNS
fibers, filaments,
yarns
Yarns that have
been treated to
promote
improved
adhesion to
another material
such as rubber
and/or to permit
easier
processing
Yarns that have
been treated to
promote improved
adhesion to another
material such as
rubber and/or to
permit easier
processing
ADHESIVE-BONDED fabrics Textile material Textile material
17
NONWOVEN FABRIC composed of a
web or batt of
fibres, bonded
by the
application of
adhesive
material.
composed of a web
or batt of fibres,
bonded by the
application of
adhesive material.
See also Saturation
bonding, Spray
bonding, Print
bonding, and Foam
bonding
ADJ ECTIVE DYES Colouring
substances that
must be applied
with a mordant
Colouring
substances that
must be applied
with a mordant. The
colours change in
character with the
type of mordant
used.
ADMIRALTY CLOTH fabrics A term used by
British naval
forces for the
standard British
Melton used for
officers
uniforms and
coats.
A term used by
British naval forces
for the standard
British Melton used
for officers
uniforms and coats.
ADRAS fabrics An union fabric
containing silk
and cotton,
usually in equal
quantities.
An union fabric
containing silk and
cotton, usually in
equal quantities. It
is glossy, has
narrow stripes, and
is made in a
beetled finish
ADSORPTION processes,
operations
A process in
which the
surface of a
solid takes on or
absorbs in an
extremely thin
layer
A process in which
the surface of a
solid takes on or
absorbs in an
extremely thin
layer, molecules of
gases, of dissolved
substances, or of
liquids with which it
is in contact.
ADULTERATION processes, The adulteration The adulteration of
18
operations of substitute
fibres or foreign
materials to
textiles, e.g.
wool is
sometimes
adulterated with
cotton.
substitute fibres or
foreign materials to
textiles, e.g. wool is
sometimes
adulterated with
cotton. This should
not be confused
with blending or
mixing, where the
objective is to
obtain increased
service, improved
appearance, etc.
ADVERTISING TAPE accessories See Bolduc See Bolduc
AERATED YARN fibers, filaments,
yarns
See Hollow-
filament yarn.
See Hollow-
filament yarn.
AEROPHANE fabrics A thin, solid-
coloured, silk
gauze made in
imitation of
crepe
A thin, solid-
coloured, silk gauze
made in imitation of
crepe. Formerly
used for trimming
dresses and
millinery
AEROPLANE FABRIC fabrics Any fabric used
as the outer
covering of a
heavier-than-air
aircraft.
Any fabric used as
the outer covering
of a heavier-than-
air aircraft.
Originally, a simple,
single, high-quality
fabric of tightly
woven construction,
which may include
rip-stop threads to
enhance tear
resistance.
However, modern
fabrics are typically
polyester or
polyamide-based
and may be
laminated with a
thin polymer film or
films, these fabrics
being used on light
and micro-light
19
aircraft, gliders and
hang-gliders.
AERTEX fabrics Trade name for
a brand of
cotton cellular
fabric.
Trade name for a
brand of cotton
cellular fabric. Cool
and absorbent and
comfortable to
wear, because it is
made of cotton and
is of open texture.
Used for
underwear, sports
clothes, and shirts
for children and
adults
AFFINITY See Dye affinity See Dye affinity
AFGHALAINE fabrics Woollen dress-
fabric made in
plain weave
using firmly
twisted yarns in
alternate S and
Z twist in both
warp and weft.
Woollen dress-
fabric made in plain
weave using firmly
twisted yarns in
alternate S and Z
twist in both warp
and weft. The use
of firmly twisted
yarns give a fairly
crisp handle and
the use of opposing
twists give a faintly
crinkled
appearance to the
surface of the
fabric. Fabric
surface is fairly
clear of fibres.
Cheaper qualities
not very crisp in
handle and show
more surface fibres,
and may be made
of a mixture of wool
and a cheaper
fibre.
AFRICAN COTTON fibers, filaments,
yarns
A
comprehensive
term for all the
A comprehensive
term for all the
varieties of cotton
20
varieties of
cotton cultivated
in Africa.
cultivated in Africa.
The native varieties
generally tend to be
inferior.
AFRICAN FIBRE fibers, filaments,
yarns
A leaf fibre
obtained from
the palmetto in
Algeria.
A leaf fibre
obtained from the
palmetto in Algeria.
Used for stuffing
mattresses.
AFRICAN STRIPE fabrics A cotton fabric
with bold,
coloured stripes
A cotton fabric with
bold, coloured
stripes
AFRICAN WASTE fibers, filaments,
yarns
A silk produced
by the Anaphe
silkworm, the
most important
silk
manufacturing
insect in Africa.
A silk produced by
the Anaphe
silkworm, the most
important silk
manufacturing
insect in Africa.
AFRICAN WOOLS fibers, filaments,
yarns
Refers mainly to
the very much
sought after
merino wools,
from the
southern parts
of Africa.
Refers mainly to
the very much
sought after merino
wools, from the
southern parts of
Africa. They are
characterised by its
softness, fineness,
and whiteness. The
term African wools,
also include some
other native breeds
which are inferior in
quality.
AFTER-CHROMING processes,
operations
A dyeing
process
A dyeing process in
which a chrome
mordant is applied
to a dyed fabric
while it is wet, thus
increasing the
fastness of the dye
AFTER-COPPERING processes,
operations
A dyeing
process
The treatment of
prints, usually those
with direct or
sulphur dyes, with
copper salts
21
solution.
AFTER-TREATING processes,
operations
A technique
used to improve
colourfastness
A technique used to
improve
colourfastness
and/or to produce
normal shades by
passing the dyed
material through a
chemical solution,
e.g. Direct dyes are
so treated.
AFTER-WELT garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A band on a
stocking,
following the
welt, in which
there is a
variation of
quality, stitch,
and/or yarn.
Also called Anti-
ladder band, Anti-
run-back courses,
Garter band, and
Shadow welt. A
band on a stocking,
following the welt,
in which there is a
variation of quality,
stitch, and/or yarn.
AFTERFLAME general Persistence of
flaming of a
material
Persistence of
flaming of a
material after the
ignition source has
been removed.
AFTERGLOW general Glow in a
material after
the removal of
an external
ignition source
or after the
cessation of
(natural or
induced) of
flaming of the
material.
Glow in a material
after the removal of
an external ignition
source or after the
cessation of
(natural or induced)
of flaming of the
material. See also
Flame, Glow and
Smouldering.
AFTERTREATMENT processes,
operations
A
comprehensive
term for any
treatment
following actual
dyeing operation
A comprehensive
term for any
treatment following
actual dyeing
operation, e.g.
colour fixing, resin
application,
neutralisation,
22
washes, et
AGARIC fabrics Cotton fabric
with a loop
construction,
similar to
towelling
Cotton fabric with a
loop construction,
similar to towelling
AGEING processes,
operations
Progressive
change with
time in the
structure and
properties of
polymers,
including wool
fibres.
1. IN POLYMERS.
Progressive change
with time in the
structure and
properties of
polymers, including
wool fibres.
2. IN PRINTING.
Fixation of printed
colour by means of
heat or steam.
Originally induced
by the action of air,
sunlight or dew; this
process gradually
came to be carried
out in a Rapid ager
or by hot air or in a
steam cabinet.
3. IN THE
PRODUCTION OF
VISCOSE. The
oxidative
depolymerisation of
alkali cellulose in
order to produce a
controlled decrease
in the chain length
of the cellulose.
The term is
sometimes,
although
incorrectly, used to
describe the
ripening of viscose.
4. IN DRYING-OIL
SIZES AND
FINISHES. The
oxidation by
exposure to air of
23
drying-oil sizes and
finishes.
5. IN RUBBER,
PLASTIC
COATINGS,
PROOFINGS AND
LUBRICANTS. The
deterioration of
rubber and plastic
coatings and
proofings and of
some lubricants on
textiles, caused by
gradual oxidation
on storage and/or
exposure to light.
AGEING IN TESTING processes,
operations
Storage of a
material under
defined
conditions,
Storage of a
material under
defined conditions,
to determine by
subsequent tests
the effect of these
conditions on the
properties of the
material. The
conditions may be
chosen to
accelerate any
natural changes
that may occur
AGRA GAUZE fabrics See Agr gauze. See Agr gauze.
AGRA GAUZE
AGR GAUZ
fabrics See Agr gauzeI See Agr gauze
AGR GAUZE fabrics Also called Agra
gauze. Plain
weave, open-
sett, silk fabric
having a gauze-
like appearance
that receives a
stiff finish.
Also called Agra
gauze. Plain
weave, open-sett,
silk fabric having a
gauze-like
appearance that
receives a stiff
finish.
AIR BRUSH PRINTING processes,
operations
A mechanical
process by
which colour is
blown onto a
A mechanical
process by which
colour is blown onto
a fabric. Commonly
24
fabric used on rayon or
silk dobby or
J acquard fabrics.
Interesting shaded
effects may be
obtained on fabrics
by this method.
AIR BRUSHING processes,
operations
Process of
colour being
blown on the
fabric with
mechanised
airbrush.
Process of colour
being blown on the
fabric with
mechanised
airbrush.
AIR CONDITIONING processes,
operations
The treatment of
air to maintain
set levels of
temperature,
humidity and
dust or lint
content.
the treatment of air
to maintain set
levels of
temperature,
humidity and dust
or lint content.
AIR LAYING processes,
operations
A method of
forming a web or
batt of staple
fibres
A method of
forming a web or
batt of staple fibres
in which the fibres
are dispersed into
an air stream and
condensed from the
air stream on to a
permeable cage or
conveyor.
AIR PERMEABILITY fabrics The rate of
airflow through a
material
The rate of airflow
through a material
under a differential
pressure between
the two fabric
surfaces. The
porosity of a fabric
as measured by the
ease with which air
passes through it.
AIR TEXTURING processes,
operations
See Air-jet
texturing.
See Air-jet
texturing.
AIR WICKING processes,
operations
Air permeability
in the plane of
the fabric
The passage of air
longitudinally along
or through yarns,
25
i.e. Air permeability
in the plane of the
fabric
AIR-CONDITIONING OF
FABRIC
processes,
operations
See Fabric air-
conditioning.
See Fabric air-
conditioning.
AIR-COOLED FINISH processes,
operations
A process of
finishing fabrics
A process of
finishing fabrics to
make them more
porous so that air
can circulate
through the
openings between
the yarns. Fabrics
so finished are said
to breathe, a
feature important
for summer fabrics.
AIR-J ET LOOM apparatus,
equipage, tools
Loom in which
the weft is
inserted with a
blast of air
instead of using
a shuttle. See
also Shuttleless
loom.
Loom in which the
weft is inserted with
a blast of air
instead of using a
shuttle. See also
Shuttleless loom.
AIR-J ET SPINNING processes,
operations
Process of
spinning staple-
fibres, using air
to apply the
twisting couple
to the yarn
during its
formation
Process of spinning
staple-fibres, using
air to apply the
twisting couple to
the yarn during its
formation. The air is
blown through
small holes
arranged tangential
to the yarn surface
and this causes the
yarn to rotate. The
majority of systems
using this technique
produce Fasciated
yarns, but by using
two air jets
operating in
opposing twist
directions it is
26
possible to produce
yarns with more
controlled
properties but of
more complex
structure.
AIR-J ET TEXTURING processes,
operations
See under
Texturing
See under
Texturing
AIRLOOP FABRIC fabrics Warp knitted
fabric, having a
construction
Warp knitted fabric,
having a
construction with
reverse locknit
lapping
movements, the
back guide bar
being overfed to
give a short pile on
the surface of the
fabric.
AJ OUR accessories Lacy, openwork
embroidery,
normally cotton
with viscose
fibre.
Lacy, openwork
embroidery,
normally cotton with
viscose fibre. A
decoration, used on
blouses and
underwear
AL A dye A dye, morindin,
obtained from the
roots of the Indian
mulberry Morinda
citrifolia.
ALAPAT fibers, filaments,
yarns
A two-ply, fine
gauge yarn,
spun from coir
or coconut fibre
A two-ply, fine
gauge yarn, spun
from coir or coconut
fibre
ALBATROSS fabrics A fine,
lightweight, soft
material made of
good quality
worsted yarn.
A fine, lightweight,
soft material made
of good quality
worsted yarn. Plain
or rather open
fancy weaves are
used to enhance
the crpe feel and
surface effect.
ALBERT CLOTH fabrics Double faced, Double faced,
27
reversible coat
fabric, often with
a different face
and back.
reversible coat
fabric, often with a
different face and
back. Made from
wool, it is a good
quality cloth used to
make expensive
overcoats for men,
sometimes with
velvet collars
ALCIAN See under
Ingrain dye
See under Ingrain
dye
ALCOHOLS Chemical
compounds
composed of
one or more
hydroxyl
groupings
attached to a
hydrocarbon.
Chemical
compounds
composed of one or
more hydroxyl
groupings attached
to a hydrocarbon.
The most
commonly used are
wood alcohol
(methyl), grain
alcohol (ethyl) and
glycerol or
glycerine
ALENON LACE fabrics Lace, usually
made in a floral
design
Lace, usually made
in a floral design
with an outlining of
heavy corded
thread. Background
is fine mesh or net.
ALEXANDRIA fabrics Fine, lightweight
dress fabric
made of cotton
and wool with a
small woven
design
The name probably
derived from the
very early silk and
wool fabrics, made
in the ancient city of
Alexandria, which
featured small
designs such as
flowers and scrolls.
Fine, lightweight
dress fabric made
of cotton and wool
with a small woven
design. It gathers
28
well. Used for
blouses, dresses
and childrens
clothes
ALGINATE fibers, filaments,
yarns
Fibres and
filaments formed
from a metallic
salt of alginic
acid, the natural
polymer in
certain
seaweeds.
Fibres and
filaments formed
from a metallic salt
of alginic acid, the
natural polymer in
certain seaweeds.
Calcium alginate
fibre, owing to its
solubility in soapy
water, find use as a
blend component in
making very fine,
woollen cloth.
Extremely fine
worsted yarns are
blended with
seaweed fibres to
give them extra
strength to
withstand weaving,
after which the
cloth is washed in
soapy water, when
the seaweed
dissolves, resulting
in a fine woollen
cloth, easily
packed, warm,
crease-resistant,
weighing even as
little 50 g/m2. Used
for camouflage
netting. Also it is
used in making
fabrics with crpe,
boucl and
astrakhan effects.
The alginate fibres
act as supporting
threads for the
loops, and are then
dissolved out
29
leaving the loops
free.
ALGINATE FIBRES fibers, filaments,
yarns
Fibres and
filaments formed
from a metallic
salt of alginic
acid, the natural
polymer in
certain
seaweeds.
Fibres and
filaments formed
from a metallic salt
of alginic acid, the
natural polymer in
certain seaweeds.
Calcium alginate
fibre, owing to its
solubility in soapy
water, find use as a
blend component in
making very fine,
woollen cloth.
Extremely fine
worsted yarns are
blended with
seaweed fibres to
give them extra
strength to
withstand weaving,
after which the
cloth is washed in
soapy water, when
the seaweed
dissolves, resulting
in a fine woollen
cloth, easily
packed, warm,
crease-resistant,
weighing even as
little 50 g/m
ALHAMBRA QUILT fabrics A jacquard
figured fabric
with a plain
ground weave
that requires two
warps
A jacquard figured
fabric with a plain
ground weave that
requires two warps.
The figuring warp is
usually two-ply and
coloured, the
ground warp
singles and
undyed. The weft is
often made on the
condenser system,
soft spun and of
30
coarse count.
ALIZARIN DYE chemicals, textile
auxiliaries
The essential
colouring matter
of the madder
root
The essential
colouring matter of
the madder root,
now produced
artificially from
anthracene, a coal-
tar derivative. Used
successfully on
wool, but the
popular colour
Turkey red is an
example of its use
on cotton. This red
is brilliant and
resistant to sun and
washing.
ALKALI The opposite of
acidic.
The opposite of
acidic. Alkaline
materials neutralise
acids. A strong
alkali will dissolve
animal fibres.
ALKALI CELLULOSE Cellulose in an
intermediate
step in the
manufacture of
viscose process
yarn.
Cellulose in an
intermediate step in
the manufacture of
viscose process
yarn.
ALKALI SOLUBILITY general The solubility of
wool in sodium
hydroxide
solution which
provides an
index of the
change in its
chemical
properties
1. IN WOOL. The
solubility of wool in
sodium hydroxide
solution which
provides an index
of the change in its
chemical properties
brought about by
certain agencies.
2. IN FLAX. A
measure of the
amount of non-
cellulosic
constituents
(readily available as
food-stuffs for
31
micro-organisms),
which are left in
commercially boiled
flax.
ALKANET A dyestuff
produced from
red cabbage
(alkanna) grown
in Russia
A dyestuff
produced from red
cabbage (alkanna)
grown in Russia.
Dye is purplish red
in colour.
ALL SILK fibers, filaments,
yarns
Same as Pure
silk.
Same as Pure silk.
ALL WOOL fibers, filaments,
yarns
100% wool 100% wool
ALL-OVER fabrics A term used in
designing to
indicate that the
design covers
the entire
surface.
A term used in
designing to
indicate that the
design covers the
entire surface. This
is in contrast to
fragmentary motifs,
borders or stripes
ALL-OVER LACE fabrics Any piece-lace
with a pattern
repeated
regularly all
over, without
any edgings, or
borders, etc.
Any piece-lace with
a pattern repeated
regularly all over,
without any
edgings, or
borders, etc.
ALLEN fibers, filaments,
yarns
A long staple,
late maturing
cotton named
after the man
who developed
the variety.
A long staple, late
maturing cotton
named after the
man who
developed the
variety. The staple
is about 11/2
inches long and
lustrous, the seed
fuzzy and white.
ALLIGATOR fabrics The skin of the
reptile,
characterised by
its square boxy
markings.
The skin of the
reptile,
characterised by its
square boxy
markings. Used
mainly for shoes
32
and handbags.
ALLOWANCE processes,
operations
the extra
dimensions
allowed over
body
measurements.
1. IN GARMENT
MEASUREMENTS,
the extra
dimensions allowed
over body
measurements.
2. IN SCREEN
PRINTING, often a
small overlap
planned so as to
avoid possible gaps
of white cloth if
registration of the
screens is not
accurately
accomplished.
3. IN ENGRAVED
ROLLER
PRINTING, a small
space between
areas of colour, so
carefully calculated
as to be just closed
on printing - to
avoid Bleeding.
ALNEIN A golden-yellow
dyestuff
produced by the
alder tree
A golden-yellow
dyestuff produced
by the alder tree
ALOE LACE fabrics Very fragile type
of lace, made
from the fibre of
the plant, aloe.
Very fragile type of
lace, made from the
fibre of the plant,
aloe. Very
expensive. Usually
made in Italy, and
some in the
Philippines
ALPACA fibers, filaments,
yarns,fabrics
The silky fleece
of alpaca, an
animal of the
genus Llama,
but slightly
smaller in size,
found in South
1. FIBRE. The silky
fleece of alpaca, an
animal of the genus
Llama, but slightly
smaller in size,
found in South
America.
33
America Sometimes blended
with cotton, wool, or
rayon, mainly to
reduce the cost,
even though alpaca
is not as expensive
as camel or
cashmere.
2. FABRIC. Alpaca,
characterised by its
crispness, was
once widely used
for dress fabrics,
but now mainly
confined to mens
light suits in black
or grey. Imitation
alpaca is made
from viscose and
acetate yarns.
ALPACA CRPE fabrics Soft, acetate or
polyester fabric
with dulls
surface, fairly
soft to handle.
Soft, acetate or
polyester fabric with
dulls surface, fairly
soft to handle.
ALTAR CLOTH fabrics Also called
Bisso linen. Very
fine, sheer, crisp
fabric
Also called Bisso
linen. Very fine,
sheer, crisp fabric,
used as the name
suggests, for
church clothes.
ALTERNATING TWIST processes,
operations
A texturing
process in which
S twist and Z
twist are
alternately
inserted in the
yarn
A texturing process
in which S twist
and Z twist are
alternately inserted
in the yarn by
means of a special
heating technique.
ALUM A colourless,
water-soluble
crystal.
A colourless, water-
soluble crystal.
Used as a Mordant
in dyeing and as an
agent with alizarin
for printing
woollens
34
ALUMINIUM ACETATE A mordant
employed in
calico printing
and dyeing
A mordant
employed in calico
printing and dyeing.
Known as red liquor
in the textile trades.
Used frequently for
Waterproofing
ALUMINIUM SILICATE
FIBRES
fibers, filaments,
yarns
Fibres spun
from aluminium
silicate
Fibres spun from
aluminium silicate,
with or without the
addition of minor
amounts of other
materials. Light
weight fibre,
thermal shock
resistant, flame
resistant, and
resilient, can
withstand high
temperatures,
chemically stable
and have electrical
properties. Used for
blankets, ropes,
tapes and broad
woven textile
goods.
ALUMINIUM YARNS fibers, filaments,
yarns
See Lurex See Lurex
AMAZON fabrics Fine dress fabric
with a worsted
warp and
woollen weft,
usually in satin
weave in plain
colours
Fine dress fabric
with a worsted warp
and woollen weft,
usually in satin
weave in plain
colours. Is lightly
milled and raised to
give a fibrous effect
but this does not
conceal the twill
effect of the satin
weave. Expensive,
so used only
occasionally,
mainly for womens
clothes.
35
AMENS fabrics See Amiens See Amiens
AMERICAN CLOTH fabrics Light-weight,
plain-weave
fabric, usually
cotton
Light-weight, plain-
weave fabric,
usually cotton,
coated on one side
with a mixture of
linseed oil and
other materials so
as to render it
glossy and
impermeable to air
or water.
AMERICAN CORD accessories See Rat-tail
cord.
See Rat-tail cord.
AMERICAN COTTON fibers, filaments,
yarns
A type of cotton
fibre.
A type of cotton
fibre. Average fibre
length 23-32 mm.;
not used for fine
counts.
AMERICAN GRAIN COUNT fibers, filaments,
yarns
A direct yarn
numbering
system for
expressing
linear density
A direct yarn
numbering system
for expressing
linear density,
equal to the mass
in grams per 120
yards of Sliver or
Roving
AMERICAN SYSTEM processes,
operations
A method of
spinning
worsted yarns
A method of
spinning worsted
yarns, developed in
the U.S., that is still
in the evolution
stage.
AMERICAN TWILL fabrics an ordinary two
up, two down
twill weave.
A term occasionally
used in England for
an ordinary two up,
two down twill
weave.
AMIENS fabrics Also called
Amens.
Also called Amens.
A closely woven,
twilled fabric made
of hard-twisted
worsted yarns in
solid colours,
stripes or novelty
36
patterns
AMINIZED COTTON fibers, filaments,
yarns
Cotton that has
been treated
with amino-ethyl
sulphuric acid.
Cotton that has
been treated with
amino-ethyl
sulphuric acid. The
treatment improves
the (a) affinity of
cotton fibre, yarn or
fabric for dye, (b)
fastness to
laundering and
light, and (c)
chemical reactivity
AMORPHOUS REGION fibers, filaments,
yarns
In fibre, an area
where the
molecules have
been unable to
arrange
themselves in a
regular manner
In fibre, an area
where the
molecules have
been unable to
arrange themselves
in a regular
manner, i.e. the
less organised
parts of a fibre.
AMYLASE See under
Enzymes
See under
Enzymes
ANALOGOUS COLOURS general Colours which
are next to each
other in the
colour wheel
Colours which are
next to each other
in the colour wheel;
they are related
because they share
a common
property, i.e., blue,
blue-green,
greenish blue,
green.
ANALYTICAL BALANCE apparatus,
equipage, tools
A device for
accurately
weighing small
swatches
A device for
accurately weighing
small swatches or
small amounts of
ingredients.
ANAPHE fibers, filaments,
yarns
See under Wild
silk
See under Wild silk
ANDALUSIANS fabrics Made from
Spanish merino
wool and
comparable
Made from Spanish
merino wool and
comparable grades,
these fine worsted
37
grades dress goods come
in a variety of twill
constructions and
fabric weights
ANGEL LACE fabrics Patterned warp-
knitted fabric
made with
separating
threads
Patterned warp-
knitted fabric made
with separating
threads that are
usually of
secondary cellulose
acetate,
subsequently
dissolved out to
leave narrow strips
for trimming. It is
generally produced
on a tricot machine,
using atlas-lapping
movements to
produce a
scalloped edge.
ANGLE OF LEAD processes,
operations
Also called
Winding-on
angle
Also called
Winding-on angle.
In ring spinning or
ring twisting, the
angle formed at the
traveller between a
package radius and
the tangent to the
package surface.
ANGLE OF WINDING processes,
operations
The angle
contained
between a wrap
of yarn on the
surface of a
package and the
diametrical
plane of the
package
The angle
contained between
a wrap of yarn on
the surface of a
package and the
diametrical plane of
the package
ANGLED DRAFT processes,
operations
Also called Point
draw.
Also called Point
draw. A kind of
drawing-in draft in
which the warps or
ends are drawn
through the
38
harnesses in
regular sequence,
first in one
direction, then in
the other.
ANGLICANUM accessories A general term
encompassing
English
needlework,
embroidery and
cutwork.
A general term
encompassing
English
needlework,
embroidery and
cutwork.
ANGOLA fibers, filaments,
yarns,fabrics
A yarn spun on
the woollen
system from a
mixture of wool
and cotton or
other fibre.
1. YARN. A yarn
spun on the
woollen system
from a mixture of
wool and cotton or
other fibre.
2. FABRIC. Plain or
twill fabric made
from a cotton warp
and an Angola-yarn
weft.
ANGORA fabrics Fabric made
from the hair of
the Angora
rabbit.
Fabric made from
the hair of the
Angora rabbit.
Always mixed with
other fibres, often
wool or acrylic, to
reduce the cost.
Fabrics are labelled
as containing rabbit
hair to avoid
confusion with
mohair, the hair of
the Angora goat.
Any fabric
containing Angora
rabbit hair is
characterised by
the appearance of
short white hairs.
ANIDEX FIBRE fibers, filaments,
yarns
A manufactured
fibre
A manufactured
fibre in which the
fibre-forming
substance is any
39
long chain synthetic
polymer composed
of at least 50 % by
weight of one or
more esters of a
monohydric alcohol
and acrylic acid.
ANILINE BLACK A manufactured
fibre
A dye developed on
the fibre by
oxidation of aniline.
Bright black, very
fast, used mainly
on cotton. Acid
fumes may turn it a
rusty green, but
good soaping
restores original
black colour. See
also Aniline dyes.
ANILINE DYES chemicals, textile
auxiliaries
Any dye derived
chemically from
aniline
Any dye derived
chemically from
aniline, a coal tar
product.
ANIMAL FIBRES fibers, filaments,
yarns
Any natural
protein-base
fibre
Any natural protein-
base fibre. Some of
the more popular
Animal (protein
base) fibres which
find use in textiles,
are: Alpaca wool,
Camel hair,
Cashmere hair,
Horse-body hair,
Horse-mane and
tail hair, Llama
wool, Mink, Mohair,
Common rabbit,
Angora rabbit,
Sheep wool, Silk,
Tussah silk, Vicuna
wool, etc.
ANIMALIZING processes,
operations
Any natural
protein-base
fibre
A chemical
treatment that
enables fibres other
than wool to take
40
dyes used for
animal fibres.
ANIONIC DYE chemicals, textile
auxiliaries
A dye that
dissociates in
aqueous
solution to give
a negatively
charged
coloured ion
A dye that
dissociates in
aqueous solution to
give a negatively
charged coloured
ion. Dyes of this
type include acid,
premetallized acid
and chrome dyes
used especially on
some acrylic fibres
and nylon; also
applies to some
synthetic
detergents.
ANISOTROPIC general The possession
of optical
properties in a
material that
vary
The possession of
optical properties in
a material that vary
with the changing
direction of
propagation of light
through it.
ANKLE garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Garment-related
term.
Garment-related
term. See under
Garment sizing
system.
ANKLE GIRTH garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Garment-related
term.
Garment-related
term. See under
Garment sizing
system.
ANORAK garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A lined and
hooded hip-
length jacket
A lined and hooded
hip-length jacket
designed to give a
degree of
protection from
severe weather
conditions
ANTHRAQUINONOID DYE See under Vat
dyes.
See under Vat
dyes.
ANTI-FUME FINISH A finish,
especially
applied to
acetate fabrics
A finish, especially
applied to acetate
fabrics and yarns
which raises their
41
and yarns which
raises their
resistance
resistance to and/or
prevents the
destruction of the
colours by
atmospheric fumes,
especially those
caused by
combustion or
those which have
an acid character
ANTI-LADDER BAND garments, made-
ups, assemblies
See After-welt. See After-welt.
ANTI-MICROBIAL AGENT chemicals, textile
auxiliaries
Any chemical
material which
kills or inhibits
the growth of
microorganisms.
Any chemical
material which kills
or inhibits the
growth of
microorganisms.
ANTI-RUN-BACK COURSES garments, made-
ups, assemblies
See After-welt See After-welt
ANTI-SAG fabrics Applicable to a
fabric that,
under normal
conditions, will
not stretch out of
shape.
Applicable to a
fabric that, under
normal conditions,
will not stretch out
of shape.
ANTI-SEPTICS Chemical
substances
used to prevent
bacterial or
fungal growth on
cotton fabrics.
Chemical
substances used to
prevent bacterial or
fungal growth on
cotton fabrics.
Some of the
common antiseptics
include zinc salts,
formaldehyde,
copper salts,
salicylic acid,
phenol and other
acids.
ANTIBACTERIAL AGENT Any chemical
material which
kills bacteria
(bactericide)
Any chemical
material which kills
bacteria
(bactericide) or
interferes with the
multiplication,
growth or activity of
42
bacteria
(bacteriostat).
ANTICHLOR chemicals, textile
auxiliaries
Any chemical
agent used to
inactivate
residual chlorine
in goods
Any chemical agent
used to inactivate
residual chlorine in
goods to prevent
the tendering of the
fabric.
ANTICOCKLE TREATMENT processes,
operations
A mild setting
treatment
imparted to wool
knitwear usually
by heating the
textile material
in the presence
of an aqueous
solution of a
reducing agent.
A mild setting
treatment imparted
to wool knitwear
usually by heating
the textile material
in the presence of
an aqueous
solution of a
reducing agent.
The object of this
treatment is to
prevent distortion
and cockling of the
knitted structure
during subsequent
wet processing
ANTICREASE FINISH processes,
operations
Synthetic resin
treatment of
cotton, rayon,
linen and
combination
fabrics,
Synthetic resin
treatment of cotton,
rayon, linen and
combination
fabrics, to make
them resist and
recover from
wrinkling.
ANTIFOAM A substance that
prevents foam
generation or
causes its
collapse.
A substance that
prevents foam
generation or
causes its collapse.
ANTIFUNGAL AGENT chemicals, textile
auxiliaries
Any chemical
material which
kills or inhibits
the growth of
fungi.
Any chemical
material which kills
or inhibits the
growth of fungi.
ANTIQUE LACE fabrics Hand-made
bobbin lace
Hand-made bobbin
lace, using heavy
threads. Designs
43
are often irregular.
ANTIQUE SATIN fabrics A satin-weave
fabric
A satin-weave
fabric made to
resemble silk satin
of an earlier
century. It is used
for furnishing
fabrics
ANTIQUE TAFFETA fabrics A heavy and stiff
finished fabric
A heavy and stiff
finished fabric, not
much popular now,
but it is the best
type for curtains,
etc. May be made
of Dupion silk or
synthetic fibres.
See also Taffeta.
ANTISTATIC AGENT A chemical
which can
prevent or
reduce the
generation of
static electricity.
A chemical which
can prevent or
reduce the
generation of static
electricity.
ANTISTATIC FINISH chemicals, textile
auxiliaries
A finish used on
fibres to give
them antistat
properties
A finish used on
fibres to give them
antistat properties.
Many finishes are
now available, but a
more permanent
method is to
introduce antistat
components during
polymerisation, in
order to provide
hydrophilic
properties and this
has achieved
excellent antistat
results for some
nylon lingerie
products. A very
effective antistat is
provided by carbon
black blended into
PVC or
44
polyester/cotton
fabrics but the
speckled black
colour is not very
popular.
ANTISTATIC NYLON fibers, filaments,
yarns
Nylon fibre with
antistatic
properties
permanently
built into it by
the chemical
modification of
the polymer
Nylon fibre with
antistatic properties
permanently built
into it by the
chemical
modification of the
polymer. Fabrics
made from it have a
greatly reduced
tendency to cling
and sparkle when
worn. Static
electricity, however,
can still be a
problem because
other factors, such
as temperature and
humidity are
involved. The use
of fabric softeners
help further.
ANTISTATIC TRICOT fabrics Fine synthetic
jersey fabric for
lingerie and
nightwear.
Fine synthetic
jersey fabric for
lingerie and
nightwear. May be
also named
Filamel.
ANTWERP POT LACE fabrics Bobbin lace Bobbin lace, which
usually contain
motifs of baskets or
vases of flowers as
decoration.
APPAREL garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A covering for
human body;
clothing, dress,
garments
A covering for
human body;
clothing, dress,
garments
APPAREL WOOL fibers, filaments,
yarns
A broad term,
which embraces
all wools, except
carpet wool and
A broad term,
which embraces all
wools, except
carpet wool and
45
pulled wools pulled wools.
Apparel wool finds
much use in
blankets, felt,
upholstery, and
similar materials.
APPARENT WALL
THICKNESS
fibers, filaments,
yarns
The apparent
width of a fibre
wall
The apparent width
of a fibre wall as
seen when fibres
are examined
under a
microscope.
APPEARANCE fibers, filaments,
yarns
See under Fibre
properties
See under Fibre
properties
APPEARANCE OF
CREASES
processes,
operations
See Crease
retention, 2.
See Crease
retention, 2.
APPEARANCE OF END
PRODUCTS
garments, made-
ups, assemblies
The overall
visual
impression of a
textile end-
product
The overall visual
impression of a
textile end-product
quantified by
comparison of
individual
components with
appropriate
reference
standards.
APPEARANCE RATING fabrics A visual rating of
a fabric
A visual rating of a
fabric when viewed
under standard
conditions.
APPENZELL accessories Swiss hand
embroidery,
featuring
loopstitch
Swiss hand
embroidery,
featuring loopstitch
APPLICATION PRINTING processes,
operations
See Direct style
printing.
See Direct style
printing.
APPLIED DESIGN fabrics See under
Design.
See under Design.
APPLIQU fabrics A cutout design
or shape
attached to the
face of a fabric
for decoration
A cutout design or
shape attached to
the face of a fabric
for decoration,
usually of a
different type
46
and/or shade of
material.
APPLIQU LACE fabrics Any fabric where
separate lace
motifs are
applied to a
background.
Any fabric where
separate lace
motifs are applied
to a background.
APRON CHECKS fabrics A cotton
gingham
A cotton gingham
made in simple
check patterns of
an equal number of
white and colour
threads, alternating
both in warp and
weft. Used for
aprons
APRON MARK defects See Decating
mark.
See Decating mark.
AQL general See Acceptable
Quality Level
See Acceptable
Quality Level
AQUA processes,
operations
Aqueous
pigment printing
system
Aqueous pigment
printing system,
developed in
response to the
demands of
ecology, using
binders, which do
not contain
hydrocarbon
solvents.
ARABESQUE accessories Scroll designs
produced by
stitching or with
cord.
Scroll designs
produced by
stitching or with
cord.
ARABIAN LACE fabrics cru-coloured
piece-lace
cru-coloured
piece-lace, corded
in a darker shade.
Used for curtains.
ARAMID fibers, filaments,
yarns
A manufactured
fibre
A manufactured
fibre in which the
fibre-forming
substance is a long
chain synthetic
aromatic polyamide
47
in which at least 85
% of the amide
linkages are
attached directly to
two aromatic rings.
ARAMID FABRICS fabrics A manufactured
fibre
Fabrics made from
aramid fibres are
expensive,
comfortable to wear
and serves for a
very long time.
Used mainly for
protective clothing
worn by jet fighter
pilots, tank crews
and other military
personnel, racing
car drivers, and for
space suits and
certain industrial
uses.
Fabrics made from
a special type of
aramid fibre, which
is petroleum based,
are very light, flame
resistant and self
extinguishing, and
at the same time,
has extremely high
strength, tenacity,
low thermal
conductivity,
exceptional
resistance to cuts,
punctures and
abrasions. Used for
ballistic protective
jackets (bullet proof
vests), gloves,
aprons and
overalls.
ARAN fabrics,processes,
operations
Fancy openwork
knit
Fancy openwork
knit in a variety of
colours and
patterns, often
48
produced in
traditional designs.
See Crochet
knitting.
AREA BURNING RATE general Area of material
(m2) burned per
unit time
(seconds)
Area of material
(m2) burned per
unit time (seconds)
under specified test
conditions.
ARGENTINE WOOL fibers, filaments,
yarns
Merino
crossbred and
carpet wools
raised in
Argentina.
Merino crossbred
and carpet wools
raised in Argentina.
Lower grades are
often infested with
burrs and other
vegetable matter to
the detriment of the
fleece.
ARGYLE fabrics Knitted fabric
having diamond-
shaped designs
Knitted fabric
having diamond-
shaped designs
using two, or more
usually three
colours of yarn.
Often used for
jerseys and
hosiery, but also
incorporated into
knit fabrics.
ARM apparatus,
equipage, tools
In sewing
machine, a
casting that
houses and
provides
mounting points
for the moving
parts inside
In sewing machine,
a casting that
houses and
provides mounting
points for the
moving parts
inside. It includes
the sewing head
and parts housing
the mechanism for
transferring
mechanical notions
to the parts of the
mechanism
contained in the
machine bed. The
49
arm is normally the
upper visible part of
the machine above
the material being
sewn.
ARMENIAN EDGING accessories Narrow lace
trimming
Narrow lace
trimming with
formal, often
geometric, designs
ARMHOLE garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Garment-related
term.
Garment-related
term. See under
Garment sizing
system
ARMISTICE CLOTH fabrics An obsolete,
English worsted
fabric
An obsolete,
English worsted
fabric which was
popular long ago. It
was made in
orange, blue, black
and other colours
ARMLENGTH garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Garment-related
term
Garment-related
term. See under
Garment sizing
system
ARMORED FABRICS fabrics A broad
classification of
glass, asbestos,
cotton, rayon
and other fabrics
A broad
classification of
glass, asbestos,
cotton, rayon and
other fabrics coated
or impregnated with
polyvinyl chloride,
cellulose nitrate,
natural or synthetic
rubber, or synthetic
resin compositions
for protection
against severe
conditions of
exposure.
ARMPIT garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Garment-related
term
Garment-related
term. See under
Garment sizing
system
ARMSCYE garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Garment-related
term.
Garment-related
term. See under
50
Garment sizing
system.
ARMSCYE
CIRCUMFERENCE
garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Garment-related
term.
Garment-related
term. See under
Garment sizing
system.
ARMUR fabrics French term for
a variety of
fabrics which
have an
embossed or
pebbled surface
French term for a
variety of fabrics
which have an
embossed or
pebbled surface,
imitating birds eye
effect, piqu,
stripes, crpe and
ribs. Sometimes
they also have a
woven design.
Made from any
fibre or blends of
various fibres.
Mainly a dress-
weight fabric.
ARRAS fabrics FRENCH LACE. 1. FRENCH LACE.
2. WORSTED
CLOTH, WHICH
was produced in or
around the city of
Arras.
3. TAPESTRY-
WORK, made
famous centuries
ago in the city of
Arras.
ARROWHEAD TWILL fabrics A British term for
Herringbone.
A British term for
Herringbone.
ART LINEN fabrics Linen fabric
made with a
cylindrical
thread
Linen fabric made
with a cylindrical
thread. Soft but firm
enough to use as a
base for
embroidery, and is
used for drawn-
thread work.
Colours cru, white
or unbleached.
51
ART SILK fabrics See Artificial
silk.
See Artificial silk.
ARTIFICIAL COTTONS fibers, filaments,
yarns
Also called Art
silk
See HWM modal
fibre.
ARTIFICIAL SILK fabrics Also called Art
silk
Also called Art silk.
Deprecated term,
used earlier to
describe viscose
fibre (rayon) fabric,
because they were
made to imitate the
more expensive
pure silk cloth.
ARTILLERY TWILL fabrics See Whipcord. See Whipcord.
ARTISTS CANVAS fabrics Fabric made of
cotton, linen,
jute, or hemp
Fabric made of
cotton, linen, jute,
or hemp, prepared
with size and
suitably primed
specifically for
artists painting
grounds.
AS-IS TWIST fibers, filaments,
yarns
See Final twist See Final twist
ASBESTOS FABRIC fabrics Made from
asbestos fibre
Made from
asbestos fibre.
Completely
fireproof. Produced
mainly in plain or
twill weave and are
used for industrial
purposes,
protective clothing,
theatre curtains,
ironing-board
covers, fire
blankets, etc. Made
in a variety of
weights.
ASBESTOS FIBRE fibers, filaments,
yarns
Commercial
name for the
mineral fibre
produced from a
naturally
occurring
Commercial name
for the mineral fibre
produced from a
naturally occurring
mineral of fibrous
texture called
52
mineral of
fibrous texture
called
asbestos.
asbestos. The
fibre will not burn in
the fiercest flame. It
is, spun alone or
with cotton. Based
on its chemical
nature, asbetos is
classified into (a)
Chysolite and (b)
Crocodolite. See
Chysolite and
Crocodolite
ASKEWED defects Fabric defect Fabric defect. See
Skewness.
ASPECT RATIO general the degree of
flattening of a
yarn
A term which
expresses the
degree of flattening
of a yarn when
assembled in a
fabric.
ASSAM SILK fibers, filaments,
yarns
See Muga silk See Muga silk
ASSEMBLY WINDING processes,
operations
The winding of
two or more
yarns as one on
to a single
package
The winding of two
or more yarns as
one on to a single
package usually in
preparation for a
subsequent twisting
process.
ASSESSMENT OF
GARMENT DEFECTS
defects See under
Garment
defects.
See under Garment
defects.
ASSORTMENT OF
GARMENT DEFECTS
defects See under
Garment defects
See under Garment
defects
ASTRAKHAN FABRIC fabrics A curled-pile
fabric, synthetic
or wool, made to
imitate
Astrakhan fur.
A curled-pile fabric,
synthetic or wool,
made to imitate
Astrakhan fur.
Heavy fabric,
woven or knitted.
Used for coats,
jackets, collars,
bags, etc. Good
quality cloth
contains some
53
mohair to add lustre
and curl.
1. WARP-
KNITTED. A warp-
knitted fabric in
which a thick curled
yarn is attached to
the ground fabric by
the threads of two
guide bars while
three other guide
bars knit the ground
fabric.
2. WEFT-KNITTED.
A weft-knitted
fabric, made on one
set of needles, with
curled yarn inlaid
on a tuck-miss
basis. See also
Laid-in fabric, weft-
knitted.
3. WOVEN. Pre-
treated pile yarn is
lifted over wires,
inserted at regular
intervals, and
woven into a plain
weave ground.
ASTRAKHAN FUR fabrics Made from the
fur of stillborn or
very young
lambs in the
Astrakhan area
Made from the fur
of stillborn or very
young lambs in the
Astrakhan area of
Central Asia.
Luxurious and
expensive. Used for
coats, hats and
trimmings for men
and women.
ATLAS fabrics Satin weave,
rich fabric made
from silk or man-
made fibres
Satin weave, rich
fabric made from
silk or man-made
fibres. Used for
dress fabrics,
mainly evening
wear. Atlas made
54
with cotton weft,
which is less
expensive is used
as a lining fabric.
See also Single bar
atlas fabric, and
Two bar atlas
fabric.
ATMOSPHERIC FADING processes,
operations
Also called Acid
fading, Fume
fading, and Gas
fading.
Also called Acid
fading, Fume
fading, and Gas
fading. The change
of shade exhibited
by some dyes,
when exposed to
certain gases,
principally oxides of
nitrogen, given off
during the burning
of fuels. Inhibitors
may be used to
counteract this
tendency or
resistant dyes may
be used.
ATTACHED CUSHION garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A cushioning
material, such
as a foam of
rubber,
urethane, etc., is
adhered to the
backing fabric
side of a pile
yarn floor
covering
A cushioning
material, such as a
foam of rubber,
urethane, etc., is
adhered to the
backing fabric side
of a pile yarn floor
covering to provide
additional
dimensional
stability, thickness,
and padding.
ATTACHED UPHOLSTERY
FABRIC
garments, made-
ups, assemblies
The exterior
fabric covering,
secured to a
furniture unit
The exterior fabric
covering, secured
to a furniture unit by
the furniture
manufacturer or
custom upholsterer.
See also Furniture
covering.
55
AUSTRALIAN MERINO fibers, filaments,
yarns
A very high
grade,
distinctive breed
developed from
several different
strains.
A very high grade,
distinctive breed
developed from
several different
strains. Quality of
these wools is
being steadily
improved. The
fleece is very dense
and staple length
averages 21/2 to 4
inches.
AUTOMATIC LOCK SLIDER accessories In zippers, a
slider
In zippers, a slider
that provides
involuntary, positive
locking action on
the chain when the
pull is releasedthat
provides
involuntary, positive
locking action on
the chain when the
pull is released
AUTOMATIC LOOM apparatus,
equipage, tools
A loom in which
empty quills are
replaced by full
ones
automatically
A loom in which
empty quills are
replaced by full
ones automatically
whilst the loom is
running
AUTOMATIC SCREEN
PRINTING
apparatus,
equipage, tools
See Flat bed
screen-printing
under Screen-
printing.
See Flat bed
screen-printing
under Screen-
printing.
AWASAI fibers, filaments,
yarns
An ideal carpet-
wool from
Mesopotamia.
An ideal carpet-
wool from
Mesopotamia.
Mainly used for
carpet
manufacturing.
AXMINSTER garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A machine-
woven carpet,
with cut pile, in
which
successive weft-
wise rows of pile
A machine-woven
carpet, with cut pile,
in which successive
weft-wise rows of
pile are inserted
during weaving in a
56
are inserted
during weaving
in a pre-
arranged colour
sequence.
pre- arranged
colour sequence.
SPOOL
AXMINSTER: A
carpet in which the
yarn for each weft-
wise row is wound
on a separate spool
according to the
design. The tufts
are severed from
the yarns presented
at the point of
weaving, after the
insertion in the
backing structure.
GRIPPER
AXMINSTER: A
carpet in which the
tufts of yarn are
inserted at the point
of weaving by
means of grippers.
The colours are
selected by
jacquard-operated
carriers that
present the
appropriate ends of
yarns to the
grippers before the
tufts are severed
from the yarn.
SPOOL-GRIPPER
AXMINSTER: A
carpet in which the
yarns for each weft-
wise row are wound
on a spool as for
Spool axminster
weaving, but in
which tufts severed
from the yarns are
inserted at the point
of weaving by
grippers as in
57
Gripper axminster
weaving.
CHENILLE
AXMINSTER: A
carpet that has a
pile of chenille weft.
See also Chenille
and Fancy yarn.
AZLIN fabrics A plain weave
fabric in cotton,
A plain weave
fabric in cotton,
produced in a
variety of plain
colours. Used
mainly for soft
furnishings
AZLON fibers, filaments,
yarns
A manufactured
fibre
A manufactured
fibre in which the
fibre-forming
substance is
composed of any
regenerated
naturally occurring
proteins. Such
natural proteins are
available from
peanuts, soybeans,
corn, milk, etc. Soft
and smooth fibres,
which blend well
with other fibres.
Used for knitted
garments,
sportswear and
coats.
AZOIC DYEING processes,
operations
A process of
dyeing
A process of dyeing
in which the
insoluble dye is
developed on the
fibre by the
combination of two
components; the
diazotised amine
and coupling
component.
AZOIC DYES Also called Ice Also called Ice
58
colours,
Naphthol
colours
colours, Naphthol
colours. Insoluble
azo dyes formed on
the fibre by
coupling a naphthol
with a solution of
diazotized bases or
salts of a base. An
insoluble azo
compound
developed, in situ,
on a substrate by
chemically reacting
an azoic diazo
component
(diazotized amine)
with an azoic
coupling
component.
These dyes are
used mainly for
cellulosic
(predominantly,
cotton) material.
They produce
bright and deep
shades, especially
reds, scarlets and
blues at reasonable
cost. They have
good fastness to
laundering and
light, but crocking
fastness is poor.
Azoic dyes are:
suitable for cotton,
linen, viscose
rayon, and
cuprammonium
rayon fibres.
AZORES
AZORES
fibers, filaments,
yarns
Thick
longhaired,
loosely woven
woollens.
Thick longhaired,
loosely woven
woollens.
AZOTON fibers, filaments,
yarns
A
cyanoethylated
A cyanoethylated
cotton product. The
59
cotton product technique for
producing azoton
includes the
reaction of ordinary
cotton with a
chemical
compound,
acrylonitrile. The
product of this
reaction is a new
fibre resembling
cotton but having
many improved
properties.
B
Word Category
Short
description
Description
BABY COMBING
WOOL
fibers, filaments,
yarns
Fine, choice wool
fibre which
ranges from 11/2
to 21/2 inches in
staple length.
Fine, choice wool fibre
which ranges from 11/2 to
21/2 inches in staple length.
The French method of
combing is used to make
high grade worsted yarn
from the stock.
BABY FLANNEL fabrics Lightweight
flannel
Lightweight flannel used for
childrens garments
BABY LACE fabrics Narrow lace
edging of the
Valenciennes
type
Narrow lace edging of the
Valenciennes type. See also
Valenciennes lace.
BABYCORD fabrics See under
Corduroy
See under Corduroy
BACK BREAK-POINT garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Garment-related
term.
Garment-related term. See
under Garment sizing
system.
BACK CHROMING processes,
operations
A treatment
given to a fabric
after dyeing to
improve colour
fixation.
Also called Back dyeing. A
treatment given to a fabric
after dyeing to improve
colour fixation. A chrome
mordant is used, often on
logwood blacks.
BACK COATING chemicals, textile
auxiliaries
An adhesive-type
substance
applied to the
An adhesive-type substance
applied to the back of a
fabric for such purposes as
60
back of a fabric locking pile yarn tufts into a
carpet backing, bonding a
secondary backing to a
primary backing, or
increasing fabric body or
stiffness.
BACK DYEING processes,
operations
See Back dyeing. See Back dyeing.
BACK FABRIC SEAM
IMPRESSION
defects Printing defect,
major.
Printing defect, major.
During printing, backing
fabric is often used to
cushion the fabric being
printed and if there is a
joining seam in the backing
fabric, there may result an
impression on the printed
fabric.
BACK LOOP fabrics See under
Knitted loop
See under Knitted loop
BACK RISE garments, made-
ups, assemblies
The distance on
a garment from
the crutch to the
centre back of
the waistline.
The distance on a garment
from the crutch to the centre
back of the waistline.
BACK SIDE fabrics Also called
Wrong side
Also called Wrong side. The
reverse of a fabric as
opposed to the face side.
BACK STITCH seams, stitches A strong and
versatile hand
stitch used to
seam garment
parts.
See Filler
A strong and versatile hand
stitch used to seam garment
parts. It is so called
because, the needle, on
emerging, goes back to be
inserted at the end of the
previous stitch.
BACK STRAP garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Strap across the
back of a
garment at the
waist usually
fitted with a
buckle, or other
method of
adjustable
fastening
Strap across the back of a
garment at the waist usually
fitted with a buckle, or other
method of adjustable
fastening, and used to
adjust the fit of the garment,
within limits, to the wearers
require-ments.
61
BACK TACKING seams, stitches Reverse sewing
at the beginning
and end of a
seam
Reverse sewing at the
beginning and end of a
seam for reinforcement.
BACK TANNING processes,
operations
An after-
treatment to
improve the wet
fastness of dyed
or printed silk or
polyamide
materials
An after-treatment to
improve the wet fastness of
dyed or printed silk or
polyamide materials, using
either natural or synthetic
tanning agents. See also
Tannin.
BACK TWISTING processes,
operations
Re-twisting a
yarn
Re-twisting a yarn in the
opposite direction to the
direction of the original,
previously set twist.
BACK WASHING processes,
operations
The washing of
dyed or undyed
wool sliver
The washing of dyed or
undyed wool sliver before or
after gilling and or combing.
BACK WIDTH garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Garment-related
term.
Garment-related term. See
under Garment sizing
system.
BACK WINDING processes,
operations
The process of
rewinding,
The process of rewinding,
e.g. from hank or cone to a
more suitable package for
the next process.
BACK-AND-FORE
STITCH
seams, stitches A hand stitch
employed for
sewing linings
and pockets.
A hand stitch employed for
sewing linings and pockets.
It involves taking a back and
then a running stitch before
the needle is removed
BACK-FILLING A filler material
applied to the
back of a fabric
A filler material applied to
the back of a fabric, to
improve its hand and/or
increase the weight. See
Filler
BACK-GREY fabrics IN ROLLER
PRINTING,IN
SCREEN
PRINTING
1. IN ROLLER PRINTING,
fabric used between the
blanket and the fabric to be
printed - sometimes called
face fabric - to absorb any
printing paste that penetrate
through the printed fabric,
and to im-part flexibility to
the face fabric allowing
62
sharp prints.
2. IN SCREEN PRINTING,
fabric used to support
lightweight, open weave
fabrics to be printed in order
to maintain stability of the
face fabric. The back-grey
and face fabric are gummed
together prior to the
combined fabric itself being
gummed to the printing table
conveyor belt. Synthetic
polymer fibre fabrics may be
gummed to the back-grey to
prevent slipping. See also
Bump-grey.
BACK-SIZING See Filler. See Filler.
BACKED CLOTH
WEAVE
fabrics A reversible
fabric
Also known as French back
weave. A reversible fabric is
achieved by using one warp
and two wefts. No binder
yarn is used
BACKED FABRIC fabrics A fabric woven
with an extra set
of yarns
A fabric woven with an extra
set of yarns, either warp or
weft, to add weight and/or
strength.
BACKING FABRIC fabrics A reinforcing
layer of fabric
1. A reinforcing layer of
fabric adhered to the
reverse side of a fabric.
2. All materials in a pile yarn
floor-covering other than pile
yarn; a fabric into which a
pile yarn is in-serted.
BACKING YARN fabrics In pile fabrics,
the base yarn
that holds the
pile in place
In pile fabrics, the base yarn
that holds the pile in place,
formed by the stuffer yarn
and the warp and weft of the
fabric.
BACKING, PRIMARY fabrics In tufted pile yarn
floor covering
In tufted pile yarn floor
covering, the fabric through
which the pile yarn is carried
by needles to form tufts; the
backing fabric
BACKING,
SECONDARY
fabrics A material
adhered to the
A material adhered to the
backing fabric side of a pile
63
backing fabric
side
yarn floor covering.
BACKING, WARP fabrics Additional warp
on the back of a
fabric
Additional warp on the back
of a fabric, bound or stitched
to the ground structure so
that it does not interfere with
the appearance of the face,
giving greater weight,
thickness, warmth, etc.
BACKING, WEFT fabrics Additional weft
on the back of a
fabric
Additional weft on the back
of a fabric, bound or stitched
to the ground structure so
that it does not interfere with
the appearance of the face,
giving greater weight,
thickness, warmth, etc.
BACTERIAL
RESISTANCE
general The resistance to
the development
of visible
bacterial growth
and
accompanying
odours
The resistance to the
development of visible
bacterial growth and
accompanying odours,
resulting from bacterial
degradation of fibres or soil
on them, as distinguished
from musty fungal odours.
BACTERIOSTAT processes,
operations
Chemical
compound,
applied to fabric
Chemical compound,
applied to fabric, which kills
or inhibits growth of bacteria
contacting fabric.
BAD CAST defects An abruptly
increased
diameter in raw
silk thread.
An abruptly increased
diameter in raw silk thread.
It is usually caused by the
improper joining of a single
cocoon filament to the
thread during the reeling
operation.
BAD COVER defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect.
a. The spaces between the
threads are more
pronounced than is required
in the fabric. The degree of
cover can be affected by
loom adjustments, sett, or
count of reed, or by the
construction of the yarns
used.
64
b. In a finished fabric, the
surface is not covered or the
underlying structure not
concealed by the finishing
materials used, to the
degree required.
BAD LISTING defects See Cut
selvedge.
See Cut selvedge.
BAD ODOUR defects Fabric defect Fabric defect. Any of an
array of objectionable
odours often noted in
fabrics, unfinished or
finished. Usually caused by
some chemical action which
has not been properly
controlled such as in ap-
plication, washing, scouring,
fulling, etc.
BAD TEMPLE defects See Temple
mark.
See Temple mark.
BAG CLOTH fabrics Woven fabric of
inferior quality
yarns, heavily
sized to prevent
penetration.
Woven fabric of inferior
quality yarns, heavily sized
to prevent penetration.
Used, as the name implies,
for bags and sacks to hold
dry goods such as flour,
beans, lentils, etc. When the
sizing is washed out, the
fabric becomes soft, which
are sometimes used for
dusters and cleaning
clothes.
BAGGING processes,
operations
See Tacking See Tacking, 2.
BAGGING FABRIC fabrics Also called
Gunny. A very
heavy, loosely
woven fabric
from heavy
tightly twisted
roving
Also called Gunny. A very
heavy, loosely woven fabric
from heavy tightly twisted
roving, consisting largely of
reworked and waste fibres,
principally cotton and jute.
Used for bale covering, etc.
See also Sacking
BAGGING OUT processes,
operations
A method of
joining facings
and/or linings to
A method of joining facings
and/or linings to the outer
fabric of a garment by
65
the outer fabric of
a garment
sewing them together face
to face in the form of a bag
and then turning the
garment out to the Right
side.
BAGGY CLOTH defects See Wavy cloth. See Wavy cloth.
BAGGY SELVEDGE defects See Slack
selvedge
See Slack selvedge.
BAGHDAD WOOL fibers, filaments,
yarns
Dark carpet wool
from
Mesopotamia.
Dark carpet wool from
Mesopotamia.
BAGHEERA VELVET fabrics Piece-dyed
velvet with a
rough surface
Piece-dyed velvet with a
rough surface. Used for
outerwear as the rough
surface makes it largely
uncrushable. See also
Velvet.
BAIL accessories Also called Lug. Also called Lug. In zippers,
a portion or portions of the
slider to which the pull or
pulls are attached
BAININ fabrics Loosely
constructed,
hand-woven
fabric from
Ireland
Loosely constructed, hand-
woven fabric from Ireland,
made of woollen homespun.
Used for coats, skirts,
stoles, etc.
BAIZE fabrics Also called Baze.
Plain-woven,
coarse short
napped woollen
felt fabric.
Also called Baze. Plain-
woven, coarse short napped
woollen felt fabric. Used as
wall covering and for
covering tables and
screens.
BAKING processes,
operations
Treatment of a
dry fabric
Treatment of a dry fabric
with dry heat such as
Curing, Thermofixation,
Thermosoling.
BALANCE garments, made-
ups, assemblies
In garments, the
adjustment of the
relation of one
section of a
garment to
another
In garments, the adjustment
of the relation of one section
of a garment to another, in
harmony with the natural
attitude of the figure,
especially that of the back
and front lengths
BALANCE MARKS processes, Notches, nips or Notches, nips or threads in
66
operations threads in
garment parts,
which help to
preserve the
balance of the
garments by
serving as guides
during assembly.
garment parts, which help to
preserve the balance of the
garments by serving as
guides during assembly.
They are generally put at
side seams, hind arm and
forearm seams and
elsewhere as necessary
BALANCE WHEEL apparatus,
equipage, tools
Also called Hand
wheel. In sewing
machine
Also called Hand wheel. In
sewing machine, a pulley
that incorporates a counter
balance to stabilise the
driven shaft of the machine.
BALANCED CRPE fabrics A crepe which
has alternate
yarns of S and
Z crepe twist in
both warp and
filling
A crepe which has alternate
yarns of S and Z crepe
twist in both warp and filling
BALANCED FABRIC fabrics Fabric in which
the number of
ends/inch is
equal to the
number of
picks/inch and
both of the yarns
are of the same
count (or
number).
Fabric in which the number
of ends/inch is equal to the
number of picks/inch and
both of the yarns are of the
same count (or number).
BALANCED TWILL fabrics Also called Even-
sided twill.
Also called Even-sided twill.
Twill weave fabric in which
the floats in both warp and
weft directions span equal
numbers of crosswise yarns.
BALANCED TWIST fibers, filaments,
yarns
without tension
An arrangement
of twist in a plied
yarn or cord,
A combination of single and
ply twists that will produce
yarn or cord which will not
twist on itself when held in
the form of an open loop or
suspended without tension
An arrangement of twist in a
plied yarn or cord, which will
not cause twisting on itself
when the yarn or cord is
held in the form of an open
67
loop.
BALANCED YARNS fibers, filaments,
yarns
Yarns in which
the twist is such
that the yarn will
hang in a loop
without kinking,
doubling, or
twisting upon
itself.
Yarns in which the twist is
such that the yarn will hang
in a loop without kinking,
doubling, or twisting upon
itself.
A yarn with balanced twist.
BALBRIGGAN fabrics Light, knit fabric
made on a
circular knitting
machine.
Light, knit fabric made on a
circular knitting machine.
Was originally made at
Balbriggan in Ireland and
used for hosiery. Now used
for sportswear, underwear
and pyjamas. Usually made
from cotton, it may have a
slight fleece on the wrong
side.
BALE fibers, filaments,
yarns, fabrics
A compressed
package of
cotton, wool, or
staple fibre.
1. A compressed package of
cotton, wool, or staple fibre.
2. A bag, sack, etc., square
or oblong usually made of
jute or burlap containing
packages of fibre, yarn, and
sometimes fabric. Bales are
usually compressed. The
sizes and weights of bales
vary.
BALE DYEING processes,
operations
The dyeing of
cloth without
previous
scouring,Dyeing
of loose stock
1. The dyeing of cloth
without previous scouring,
such that the sized warp
yarns take up dye while
greasy weft yarns do not.
Imitation chambray is
sometimes bale dyed.
2. Dyeing of loose stock
(usually synthetic polymer
fibre) in the form of an
unpacked bale
BALL WARPING processes,
operations
The process of
winding a group
of warp yarns
The process of winding a
group of warp yarns in the
form of a twistless rope into
a ball, cheese or cake. See
also Warping.
68
BALLET TOE garments, made-
ups, assemblies
In knitting, a type
of reverse toe
In knitting, a type of reverse
toe in which the toe yarn on
the upper side covers the
ends of the toes only, and
the toe is usually extended
and more pointed.
BALLING UP defects See Fuzz ball. See Fuzz ball.
BALLOON CLOTH fabrics Plain-weave
cotton cloth
made from high
quality fine yarn
Plain-weave cotton cloth
made from high quality fine
yarn, very closely woven.
Once used for ready-made
shirts, for typewriter ribbons
and, of course for balloons.
BALLOONING processes,
operations
The entrapment
of air
The entrapment of air, either
deliberately or accidentally,
by a fabric during wet
processing.
BALLOONING EYE apparatus,
equipage, tools
Also called
Twizzle, Lappet.
Also called Twizzle, Lappet.
A yarn-guide that forms the
apex of the yarn balloon.
See Ballooning yarn
BALLOONING YARN processes,
operations
The appearance
of the curved
paths of running
yarns
The appearance of the
curved paths of running
yarns during spinning,
doubling, or winding-on, or
while they are being
withdrawn over-end from
packages under appropriate
conditions. The shape of the
balloon is determined by
several factors, among
which are: air-resistance to
the passage of yarn around
a package, centrifugal force
acting on the revolving yarn,
type and linear density of
yarn, yarn-winding speed,
length of balloon, and mass
of traveller, if used.
BALMORAL fabrics A strong, heavy,
British woollen
fabric made in a
twill weave
A strong, heavy, British
woollen fabric made in a
twill weave; stripes of red,
black, and grey feature in
the material
BAN-LON fabrics A trade name for A trade name for fabrics
69
fabrics made with
texturised yarns.
made with texturised yarns.
Fabrics made from these
yarns are soft, strong, easy
to wash, quick drying and
crease and shrink-resistant.
See Texturising.
BANANA FIBRES fibers, filaments,
yarns
Fibres obtained
from plants of the
banana family.
Fibres obtained from plants
of the banana family.
BAND fabrics A weft-way
region of the
fabric that
extends across
the full width
A weft-way region of the
fabric that extends across
the full width and is different
from the rest of the fabric. It
may not run parallel with the
picks, and may or may not
have clearly defined edges.
BAND KNIFE apparatus,
equipage, tools
A mechanically
driven endless
moving blade,
A mechanically driven
endless moving blade,
which passes through a slot
in a table. Normally used for
cutting many layers of cloth
at the same time.
BAND WARPING processes,
operations
See Pattern
warping.
See Pattern warping.
BANDAGE fabrics A narrow, loosely
woven fabric
made of cotton
and occasionally
linen in a plain
weave,
resembling
gauze
A narrow, loosely woven
fabric made of cotton and
occasionally linen in a plain
weave, resembling gauze.
Used for medical purposes.
Generally bleached and
shipped in sterilised
packages. It is available in
squares, triangular
bandages and rolled
bandages in a great variety
of widths.
BANDED LACES accessories Laces, produced
on a warp-
knitting or twist-
lace machine.
Laces, produced on a warp-
knitting or twist-lace
machine. Narrow bands or
strips, used for trimming
garments. The band are
usually held together for
finishing purposes and
subsequently separated.
The three main types are:
70
1. EDGINGS: Narrow bands
of lace with one straight
edge for sewing purposes
and the other made ornate
by scalloping and using
pearls. Used for sewing onto
edges of a garment.
2. INSERTIONS: Banded
laces with two straight
sewing edges, used for
inserting between two
panels of fabric.
3. GALLOONS: Banded
laces scalloped or fancy at
both edges, used to sew on
the top of a fabric for
decorative purposes.
BANG OFF defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. See Fine
filling bar.
BANNOCKBURN fabrics Top quality
tweed cloth
Top quality tweed cloth, in
which a single colour yarn is
alternated with a yarn made
of two colours; the yarns are
twisted together before
weaving. Fabric named after
the Scottish town of
Bannockburn that has long
been the centre of an area
producing these fabrics.
Used for suits and coats.
BAR defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Also called
Shade bar. A bar that has
developed a different colour
from the adjacent fabric
during, or subsequent to,
dyeing and finishing owing
to damage or contamination
of otherwise normal fabric or
of weft yarn prior to
weaving.
BARATHEA fabrics Expensive fine
English cloth
Expensive fine English
cloth, closely woven with
slight diagonal-weave
appearance and broken rib
effect. Feels smooth to
71
touch but has a granular or
pebbled appearance.
Originally in worsted and
silk, but now made with
synthetic fibres such as
viscose, acetate and
polyester. Mainly used as
wool suiting or uniform
fabric and also for mens
evening clothes and for
coats and skirts for women.
The best types are fine
botany worsted fabrics, firm
and compact in structure
with a clean finish. The
weave is a special form of
twilled rib weave which in
combination with the fine
setting pro-duces a finely
indented fabric surface with
faint regular twill lines
running in opposite
directions. The weave can
be simple or more complex
but the general effect is
similar. In fine qualities this
fab-ric makes up well in
classic styles. Cheaper
forms of barathea use
woollen weft, and a mixture
of wool and a cheaper fibre,
which produces a fabric with
a more fibrous surface and
less distinct face effect than
the true fabric. Man-made
staple fibres can also be
used to give cheaper, lighter
weight, versions of this
fabric.
BARBE fibers, filaments,
yarns
See under Fibre
length.
See under Fibre length.
BARE CLOTH defects A fabric with bad
cover
1. A fabric with bad cover.
2. A fabric, the surface of
which is not raised, brushed,
or napped to the required
degree.
72
BARGE fabrics See Barrge. See Barrge.
BARK CRPE fabrics Heavy crpe
fabric with rough
texture, like tree
bark
Heavy crpe fabric with
rough texture, like tree bark.
Usually viscose or polyester.
Stiff fabric for eveningwear.
BARMEN LACE fabrics Narrow lace
made on a type
of braiding
machine
Narrow lace made on a type
of braiding machine, on
which individual carrier
movements are controlled
by a patterning mechanism.
See Barmen machine.
BARMEN MACHINE apparatus,
equipage, tools
See under Lace
machines.
See under Lace machines.
BARNSLEY FINISH processes,
operations
A term used for a
finish applied to
heavy linen drills.
A term used for a finish
applied to heavy linen drills.
The bleached cloth is run
through a mangle, starched
lightly, and dried. It is then
run through a light calendar,
passed through hot water
onto rollers, where it
remains for 5 to 6 hours,
and dried. It is pressed in
single folds separated by
pasteboards in a hydraulic
press.
BARRAS fabrics a coarse linen
fabric similar to
sackcloth.
Originally produced in
Holland; it is a coarse linen
fabric similar to sackcloth.
See Sacking.
BARR defects Fabric defect,
usually major
Fabric defect, usually major.
Also called Barr mark,
Barriness and Barry. 1. In
woven fabrics. An
unintentional, repetitive
visual pattern of continuous
bars and stripes usually
parallel to the weft of fabric.
A stripe-like effect where
one or more picks are
characterised by an
apparent difference in
colour, lustre, or physical
arrangement that is
repeated at intervals across
73
the warp direction, caused
probably due to mechanical
faults in the loom, or
variations in lustre or dye
absorption, etc. of yarns. 2.
In knit fabric. Fabric will
appear to have horizontal
streaks or bands parallel to
the courses of weft knitted
fabrics, caused by
differences in yarn size,
tension on yarns or fabric,
colour, lustre or shrinkage,
from one section of the cloth
to the adjacent area.
BARRED defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. A bar effect
produced by stripes or bars
extending crosswise in
woven or knitted goods.
BARRGE fabrics Very sheer fabric
of wool and silk
or cotton used for
veiling.
Also called Barge. Very
sheer fabric of wool and silk
or cotton used for veiling.
Originates from Barge in
the Pyrenees. Unsuitable for
clothing. Drapes well but will
not withstand strain in wear.
BASIC DYES chemicals, textile
auxiliaries
These are
cationic dyes
The outstanding
characteristic of these dyes
are their brilliance and
intensity. Some of the
shades are of such clarity of
hue, that no other class can
compare with them them.
These are cationic dyes that
dissociate in an aqueous
medium to give a positively
charged coloured ion
(cation) with affinity for
fibres containing acidic
groups. To apply it on
cotton, a tannin mordanting
is necessary; still the
fastness is only just
moderate. Can be applied
without mordant on wool
74
and silk, but again the
results are characterised
more by brightness than
fastness. Specially
developed basic dyes for
acrylics are quite fast. Basic
dyes are: suitable for acrylic
fibres, suitable for wool and
silk fibres, but now the
usage is declining, suitable
for cotton, linen, viscose
rayon, and cuprammonium
rayon fibres, but lacks
fastness and now obsolete.
BASIC FINISHES processes,
operations
Mechanical or
chemical
processes
applied in some
form to a
constructed
fabric.
Mechanical or chemical
processes applied in some
form to a constructed fabric.
BASIS WEIGHT OF
FABRIC
fabrics Mass per unit
area of fabric
Mass per unit area of fabric,
e.g. oz/sq. yd., g/m2
BASKET fabrics A variation of the
plain weave
A variation of the plain
weave, where groups of
adjacent warps are each
woven as one and picks are
inserted in groups of two or
more in each shed. The
formation resembles a
plaited basket. See also
Hopsack.
BASKET WEAVE fabrics A variation of the
plain weave
A variation of the plain
weave, where groups of
adjacent warps are each
woven as one and picks are
inserted in groups of two or
more in each shed. The
formation resembles a
plaited basket.
BAST FIBRE fibers, filaments,
yarns
Fibres derived
from the inner
fibrous bark of
dicotyledonous
plants
Fibres derived from the
inner fibrous bark of
dicotyledonous plants such
as flax, hemp and jute.
75
BASTARD fabrics a substitute
fabric, a copy
cloth or an
inferior material.
In textiles, the term indicates
a substitute fabric, a copy
cloth or an inferior material.
The general connotation is
that the so-called bastard
fabric does not have all of
the desirable characteristics
of the cloth it purports to
copy.
BASTARD YARNS fibers, filaments,
yarns
A term for yarns
which are spun
harder than filling
A term for yarns which are
spun harder than filling but
not as hard as regular warp
twist. They are used for
making plied yarns.
BASTE seams, stitches Fibres derived
from the inner
fibrous bark of
dicotyledonous
plants s
Fibres derived from the
inner fibrous bark of
dicotyledonous plants such
as flax, hemp and jute.
BASTING seams, stitches See Baste See Baste
BATCH general, processes,
operations
The process of
winding cloth on
a roller
1. One group of material
which is to be processed
(usually dyed) as a unit.
2. The process of winding
cloth on a roller after it has
been passed through a dye
solution.
BATCH CURE processes,
operations
A procedure
used in curing
durable press
garments.
A procedure used in curing
durable press garments. By
this method, one batch at a
time is put into the curing
oven.
BATCHWISE
PROCESS
processes,
operations
Processing of
materials as lots
or batches
Processing of materials as
lots or batches in which the
whole of each batch is
subjected to one stage of
the process at a time. See
also Continuous process.
BATH SHEET garments, made-
ups, assemblies
See under
Towel.
See under Towel.
BATH TOWEL garments, made-
ups, assemblies
See under Towel See under Towel
BATHROBE CLOTH fabrics A double-faced
cotton blanket
A double-faced cotton
blanket fabric woven with a
76
fabric tightly twisted warp and two
sets of soft filling yarns,
heavily napped to produce a
soft surface.
BATIK processes,
operations
Term for a resist
process of
patterning cloth.
Term for a resist process of
patterning cloth. A method,
of dyeing, originated in
J ava, in which wax is
employed in an innovative
fashion. The design is
formed by coating parts of
the fabric with wax which
protects these parts from
the dyestuff. The wax is
removed by boiling. This
process is repeated as
many times as there are
colours in the design.
Fabrics, usually cotton, are
labelled ba-tik when they
feature this type of print.
Designs are often large and
placed centrally; borders are
usually featured. Used for
casual dresses, shirts,
beachwear.
BATISTE fabrics A fine, soft, plain-
woven fabric,
originally of linen
and then in
cotton.
A fine, soft, plain-woven
fabric, originally of linen and
then in cotton. But now may
be polyester. Slightly
heavier than voile, in white
or plain colours. Creases
easily but is strong, wears
well, and washes and boils.
Used for underwear, shirts,
blouses, nightwear,
childrens clothes,
handkerchiefs, etc.
BATT fibers, filaments,
yarns
A carded lap of
fibres.
A carded lap of fibres.
BATTENBERG LACE fabrics Coarse type lace
often made from
linen thread
Coarse type lace often
made from linen thread and
used mainly in small areas,
such as collars and cuffs,
although it is a popular
77
heavy curtain lace.
BATTING fibers, filaments,
yarns
Cotton or
polyester fleece
used for quilting
Cotton or polyester fleece
used for quilting, in quilted
fabrics. A textile filling
material consisting of a
continuous web of fibres
formed by carding,
garnetting, air laying or
other means.
BATTING INTEGRITY fibers, filaments,
yarns
The ability of a
textile filling
material to resist
distortion
The ability of a textile filling
material to resist distortion
or change when subjected
to multiple home
launderings or drycleanings.
BAULK FINISH processes,
operations
A finish by which
woollen material
is lightly milled
A finish by which woollen
material is lightly milled in
the grease, scoured, dyed,
tentered to width and lightly
pressed.
BAUM, DEGREES general A scale used for
measurement of
the relative
density (RD) of
liquids by
hydrometry.
A scale used for
measurement of the relative
density (RD) of liquids by
hydrometry. The following
formula expresses the
relationship between relative
density, and degrees
Baum ( Be), for liquids
more dense than water
BAURETTE fibers, filaments,
yarns
See Noil See Noil
BAVE fibers, filaments,
yarns
The silk fibre
complete with its
natural gum
(sericin)
The silk fibre complete with
its natural gum (sericin) as it
is withdrawn from a cocoon
formed by a silk worm. It
comprises two brins.
BAZE fabrics See Baize. See Baize.
BCF fibers, filaments,
yarns
Short for Bulked
Continuous
Filament
Short for Bulked Continuous
Filament. A textured,
continuous filament yarn,
generally used either as a
pile yarn in carpets or for
upholstery fabrics. See also
Textured yarn.
BEAD accessories IN SEPARATE 1. IN SEPARATE
78
ELEMENT
ZIPPERS, IN
CONTINUOUS
ELEMENT
ZIPPERS
ELEMENT ZIPPERS, an
enlarged section on the
inner edge of each tape to
which inter-lockable
elements are affixed.
2. IN CONTINUOUS
ELEMENT ZIPPERS, an
optional enlarged section of
the tape located at the outer
edge of the continuous
interlockable elements and
against which the slider
flanges bear.
BEAD WRAPPING
FABRIC
fabrics See under Tyre
textiles
See under Tyre textiles
BEADED SELVEDGE defects See Loopy
selvedge
See Loopy selvedge.
BEADING defects See Buttoning. See Buttoning.
BEADING LACE fabrics Very narrow,
insertion laces.
Very narrow, insertion laces.
They are often openwork
hemstitching or faggot
stitch, or may have slits for
inserting ribbons.
BEAM apparatus,
equipage, tools
A large spool
with end flanges
on to which a
multitude of warp
yarns are wound
parallel
A large spool with end
flanges on to which a
multitude of warp yarns are
wound parallel in such a
way, to permit the removal
of these yarns as a warp
sheet, and used for such
purposes as weaving or
warp knitting. Fabric also
may be wound on beam.
BEAM DYEING processes,
operations
A method of
dyeing warp
yarns or fabrics
wound on to a
perforated beam
A method of dyeing warp
yarns or fabrics wound on to
a perforated beam. The
beam is placed in the dyeing
machine and the dye
solution is pumped through
the yarn from the centre of
the beam outward and then
from the outside yarn
surface to the centre of the
beam.
BEAM WARPING processes, Winding a part of Winding a part of the total
79
operations the total number
of ends in full
width on to a
warp beam
number of ends in full width
on to a warp beam.
BEARDED NEEDLE apparatus,
equipage, tools
See under
Needle.
See under Needle.
BEARERS garments, made-
ups, assemblies
In trousers,
sections fastened
to the side
seams of some
styles
In trousers, sections
fastened to the side seams
of some styles, to take the
weight of the trousers when
the fronts are opened.
BEAT-UP processes,
operations
See Beating-up See Beating-up
BEATING general, processes,
operations
A term used in
wool industry for
spare threads
that are run from
a warp during
weaving.
1. A term used in wool
industry for spare threads
that are run from a warp
during weaving. They can
be used for replacing
missing ends during the
mending process.
2. A finishing process which
generally consists of
manually beating certain
raised wool fabrics with
sticks, but now mechanised.
BEATING-UP processes,
operations
One of the basic
motions involved
in weaving.
Also called Beat-up. One of
the basic motions involved
in weaving. The inserted
weft yarn is pushed up
against the fell of the cloth
by the reed, i.e. the process
of forcing a weft yarn into
position in a fabric.
BEAVER CLOTH fabrics Expensive
coating material,
heavily napped
and raised and
made to look like
beaver fur.
Expensive coating material,
heavily napped and raised
and made to look like
beaver fur. Woven in a
variety of weights in single
or double satin weaves from
high quality woollen yarns.
Used for overcoats and
winter jackets for men and
women.
BEAVERTEEN fabrics A fabric having a
very high weft
A fabric having a very high
weft sett used chiefly for
80
sett used chiefly
for heavy
trouserings.
heavy trouserings. The
fabric is piece dyed and has
a short, soft raised finish on
the back. It is heavier than
Imperial sateen.
BECK apparatus,
equipage, tools
Also called
Kettle, Trough.
Also called Kettle, Trough.
An open-topped vessel used
to hold treating liquors, e.g.
wash or dye liquor.
BECKE LINES fibers, filaments,
yarns
Lines which
appear at the
edge of a
microscope
image of a fibre
Lines which appear at the
edge of a microscope image
of a fibre caused by the
refraction at the fibre edge.
BED apparatus,
equipage, tools
In sewing
machine, the part
below the
material being
sewn.
In sewing machine, the part
below the material being
sewn. It consists of a
casting which houses and
provides mounting points for
the moving parts inside.
BEDCOVERING garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A textile product
used on a bed
over the sheets
A textile product used on a
bed over the sheets for
warmth and/or decoration.
BEDFORD CLOTH fabrics See Bedford
cord.
See Bedford cord.
BEDFORD CORD fabrics Firmly woven
heavy
hardwearing
fabric, very
stable, showing
prominent
rounded cords in
the warp
direction with
pronounced
sunken lines
between them.
Firmly woven heavy
hardwearing fabric, very
stable, showing prominent
rounded cords in the warp
direction with pronounced
sunken lines between them.
These typical narrow warp
cord effects are produced by
a special cord weave
structure. The weave on the
face of the cords is usually
plain, but other weaves may
be used. There are weft
floats the width of the cords
on the back. Wadding may
be used to accentuate the
prominence of the cords.
Used originally for riding
breeches but also used for
ordinary suiting, casual
81
trousers, uniforms and
upholstery. Traditionally
wool, cotton or a mixture of
the two; but now for dress
purposes, carded cotton
yarns, woollen or worsted
yarns, viscose acetate,
polyester or combinations of
yarns used. Conventionally
the cords are regular and of
even size but different sizes
are used in stripe form for
dress use. The wales can
be wide and stiffer yarns
can be present. Light
Bedford cord is used for
dresses, childrens clothes,
etc.
BEDSPREAD garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A type of
bedcovering that
is placed over
the blankets and
sheets
A type of bedcovering that is
placed over the blankets
and sheets for appearance
and/or warmth.
BEER fabrics Also called Bier.
A definite
number of warp
threads, usually
40
Also called Bier. A definite
number of warp threads,
usually 40. A warp is said to
consist of so many beers,
e.g. 2400 ends would be
60n beers.
BEETLE fabrics Soft, full, close
and lustrous
finished fabric of
cellulosic fabric,
particularly linen
or cotton.
Soft, full, close and lustrous
finished fabric of cellulosic
fabric, particularly linen or
cotton. Finish produced by a
process called beetling; the
damp fabric, wrapped on a
wooden or metal beam or
roller, is pounded repeatedly
by wooden or metal
hammers or fallers.
BEETLING processes,
operations
See under Beetle See under Beetle
BEGGARS INKLE accessories An old type
narrow fabric
An old type narrow fabric
constructed as Linsey-
wolsey
BEIGE fabrics, fibers, A term for cloth 1. A term for cloth in the
82
filaments, yarns in the natural or
undyed
unfinished state.
natural or undyed unfinished
state.
2. Unbleached wool
BELLIES fibers, filaments,
yarns
The coarser
quality of wool
The coarser quality of wool
from the underside of a
sheep
BELLY BANDS fibers, filaments,
yarns
See Wrapper
fibres
See Wrapper fibres
BELT garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A girdle or
waistband.
1. A girdle or waistband.
2. See under Tyre textiles.
BELT LOOP garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A loop of fabric
or thread which
is sewn into the
waist of the
garment.
A loop of fabric or thread
which is sewn into the waist
of the garment. The degree
of fit is adjustable by means
of a belt drawn through the
loop or loops.
BELTING garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A term covering
all forms of belts,
and rolls of
material from
which belts are
made up
A term covering all forms of
belts, and rolls of material
from which belts are made
up, that are designed for
industrial and mechanical
uses, e.g. for the
transmission of power or for
the purpose of conveying or
elevating.
Endless woven belting: A
woven narrow fabric, usually
in plain or 2/2 twill weave, in
which the warp consists of
one continuous thread
wound in a helix to the
required length and woven
without join or splice so that
the first pick and last picks
are adjacent.
Solid woven belting: Belting
consisting of more than one
ply, the plies being
interlocked in the weave, or
bound together by binding
threads in the course of
weaving. Solid woven
belting is usu-ally
impregnated or otherwise
treated to increase the
83
coefficient of friction and the
resistance to moisture and
rotting, to improve linear
stability, and to impart other
desirable properties.
BELWARP FABRIC fabrics A fine worsted
dress-cloth
having a
corkscrew twill
weave
A fine worsted dress-cloth
having a corkscrew twill
weave with a clear finish.
BEMBERG fabrics See
Bembergizing
See Bembergizing
BEMBERGIZING processes,
operations
A process used
for developing a
high lustre on
wool.
A process used for
developing a high lustre on
wool. Worsted yarn is
treated in a bath of sodium
bisulphate at a high
temperature under
mechanical tension to
prevent shrinking, boiled for
sometime in a weak mineral
acid under relaxing
(minimum) tension, and then
rinsed in water. A high lustre
is produced, and the yarn is
elongated by approximately
one third.
BENARES fabrics Lightweight
cotton or silk
fabric from India.
Lightweight cotton or silk
fabric from India. Usually
woven with metallic threads,
often in border design
BENDING LENGTH fabrics A measure of the
interaction
between fabric
weight and fabric
stiffness
A measure of the interaction
between fabric weight and
fabric stiffness as shown by
the way in which a fabric
bends under its own weight.
It reflects the stiffness of a
fabric when bent in one
plane under the force of
gravity, and is one
component of drape.
BENGALINE fabrics a fabric with a
more or less
striking warp-rib
appearance
Originally the fabric came
from Bengal. Now, a fabric
with a more or less striking
warp-rib appearance
84
running across
the fabric,
produced from
cotton, worsted,
silk or other
continuous
filament yarns
running across the fabric,
produced from cotton,
worsted, silk or other
continuous filament yarns,
or in part from any of the
materials named; a typical
example being silk warp and
worsted weft. The warp-rib
or corded effect may be
produced by (i) suitable
thickness and setting of
warp and weft threads, (ii)
suitable warp-rib weaves or
a combination of (i) and (ii).
Used for coats, suits,
dresses, and ribbons; can
also be made as curtain
fabric.
BENT HANDLED
SHEARS
apparatus,
equipage, tools
Scissors with
blades angled
Scissors with blades angled
so that fabric can be cut
while lying flat.
BERBER garments, made-
ups, assemblies
manufactured
carpets made
from natural
coloured wools,
or dyed fibre, and
having a
homespun
appearance.
Originally the term
described hand spun, hand
woven, African carpets with
simple tribal motifs. Now,
the term is commonly used
to describe manufactured
carpets made from natural
coloured wools, or dyed
fibre, and having a
homespun appearance.
BERLIN garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Wool rag in the
finer machine-
knitted grades
Wool rag in the finer
machine-knitted grades
BERLIN SILK fibers, filaments,
yarns
A type of
crocheting silk
A type of crocheting silk
made by twisting 4 to 8
single yarns with a right
hand twist and then twisting
3 of these with a left hand
twist. The yarn is high twist
and therefore round, smooth
and hard.
BESPOKE general Those textile
materials which
are made to
Those textile materials
which are made to order of
an individual or a firm.
85
order of an
individual or a
firm.
BETA-NAPHTHOL A developer used
in dyeing
A developer used in dyeing
of developed azo colours on
cotton. See Developed
dyes.
BEUTANOL fabrics Fabrics treated
with number of
coats of vinyl
plastic to improve
their pliability,
finish and hand.
Fabrics treated with number
of coats of vinyl plastic to
improve their pliability, finish
and hand. Such fabrics are
flame-resistant, waterproof,
stainproof and dustproof.
Usually vat dyeing precedes
the coating process.
BEVEL-WOVEN
MATERIAL
fabrics A woven fabric in
which warp bow
is intentionally
introduced.
A woven fabric in which
warp bow is intentionally
introduced.
BI-AXIAL FABRIC fabrics A warp-knitted
construction
A warp-knitted construction
in which additional,
substantially straight,
vertical (warp) threads and
horizontal (weft) threads are
inserted throughout the
complete width and length
of the fabric.
BIAS defects See Skewness See Skewness
BIAS BINDING processes,
operations
The process of
making a product
by cutting,
woven, wide
fabric at an
oblique direction
to warp and weft
The process of making a
product by cutting, woven,
wide fabric at an oblique
direction to warp and weft.
True bias is at an angle of
45 from both warp and
weft. Most bias bindings
have regularly spaced joins
governed by the width of the
original wide fabric, but if
converted from tubular
fabric, joins are avoided.
Bias bindings do not fray
and will stretch, and they
are thus suitable for binding
seams and conforming to
curved contours. Bias
86
bindings are usually folded
into the centre, but other
folded patterns as well as
flat versions are produced.
BIAS CUT processes,
operations
A cut at an
oblique angle to
warp and weft.
A cut at an oblique angle to
warp and weft.
BIAS FILLING defects See Skewness. See Skewness.
BICOMPONENT
FIBRES
fibers, filaments,
yarns
Also called
Biconstituent
fibres, Bigeneric
fibres. A fibre
consisting of two
polymers which
are chemically
different,
physically
different, or both
Also called Biconstituent
fibres, Bigeneric fibres. A
fibre consisting of two
polymers which are
chemically different,
physically different, or both.
A bicomponent fibre can be
considered as a double
filament in which two
individual components are
present, e.g. in the
production of some
bicomponent fibre, two
filaments of different
chemical composition are
fused together during
spinning to form one double
filament. This structure
gives the fibre special
physical characteristics. The
two chemically different
forms will not react in the
same way when subjected
to heat or moisture. On
heating, one side of the fibre
shrinks more than the other,
thus giving the bicomponent
filament a high degree of
crimp. The nature of this
crimp is similar to that given
by wool and is different from
the mechanically induced
crimps. There are different
types of bicomponent fibres.
BICOMPONENT
YARNS
fibers, filaments,
yarns
Two-fold staple
yarns,Two-fold
continuous
There are many different
types: (a) Two-fold staple
yarns, when the individual
87
filament
yarns,Yarns in
which a filament
yarn is doubled
or folded with a
staple fibre yarn,
Core-spun yarns,
wrapped yarns,
Filament blend
yarns,
components are different.
(b) Two-fold continuous
filament yarns, when the
individual components are
different and (c) Yarns in
which a filament yarn is
doubled or folded with a
staple fibre yarn (d) Core-
spun yarns, wrapped yarns,
or other core-sheath
configurations and (e)
Filament blend yarns, where
two or more single-
component filaments are
spun in the same operation
BICONICAL
PACKAGE
fibers, filaments,
yarns
A conical
package of yarn
in which the
traverse length is
progressively
reduced
A conical package of yarn in
which the traverse length is
progressively reduced to
produce tapered or rounded
ends; such packages are
referred to tapered cones or
pineapple cones.
BICONSTITUENT
FIBRES
fibers, filaments,
yarns
Deprecated term. Deprecated term. Preferred
term is Bicomponent fibres
or Bigeneric fibres.
BIER fabrics See Beer. See Beer.
BIGENERIC FIBRES fibers, filaments,
yarns
See
Bicomponent
fibres
See Bicomponent fibres
BIGHT seams, stitches Also called Bite. Also called Bite. The
distance from the edge of a
fabric or fabrics that the
needle-thread penetrates in
an overedge seam
construction.
BILATERAL FIBRES fibers, filaments,
yarns
A filament
composed of two
generic fibre
types or two
variants of the
same generic
fibre
A filament composed of two
generic fibre types or two
variants of the same generic
fibre extruded
simultaneously in a side-by-
side relationship. Bilateral
and bicomponent are
usually synonymous.
BILLIARD CLOTH fabrics Woollen fabric
made from fine
Woollen fabric made from
fine Merino wool. Heavily
88
Merino wool. milled with a fibrous finish.
Dyed green or very rarely,
red for billiard or card table
tops. Plain or twill weave,
the cloth is of the highest
quality and obviously
smooth, even, and have
substance and body.
BINCA CLOTH fabrics Also known as
Boldwork cloth.
Also known as Boldwork
cloth. Very distinctive
embroidery fabric made in a
range of colours.
Characterised by the fairly
large square holes between
the blocks of threads. Used
as a beginners embroidery
fabric
BINCHE LACE fabrics Lace. A six-point
star-shaped
ground net of
snowflake effect
Lace. A six-point star-
shaped ground net of
snowflake effect with a scroll
pattern on it.
BINDER fibers, filaments,
yarns, accessories,

The binding or
wrapping yarn
used in the
production of
yarns
1. The binding or wrapping
yarn used in the production
of yarns on a hollow spindle
spinning ma-chine.
2. An adhesive material
used to hold together the
fibres in a nonwoven fabric.
3. See Cut-off.
BINDING accessories A narrow fabric,
woven, braided
or knitted, used
to protect,
support, or
improve the
appearance of a
seam or edge
A narrow fabric, woven,
braided or knitted, used to
protect, support, or improve
the appearance of a seam
or edge
Glac binding: Woven
narrow fabric made from
polished, stiff cotton warp
and weft yarns, in a 3/1 twill
weave. Used mainly in
mens tailoring trade.
Simili binding: Binding made
from mercerised cotton
yarns throughout, in 3/1
broken twill weave in
imitation of satin.
89
Stay binding: Woven narrow
fabric with cotton warp and
weft, in 2/2 twill weave or
derivatives, gen-erally used
for covering seams and
strengthening garments.
BINDING POINT processes,
operations
Also called
Stitch. A special
form of thread
interlacing
Also called Stitch. A special
form of thread interlacing
used, e.g. to join the layers
of compound cloths (see
Double cloth) or to
consolidate single structures
(see Hopsack).
BIOFINISHING processes,
operations
See under
Enzymes
See under Enzymes
BIOPOLISHING processes,
operations
See under
Enzymes.
See under Enzymes.
BIOSTONING processes,
operations
See under
Enzymes.
See under Enzymes.
BIRDS EYE defects Fabric defect in
knitted fabric
Fabric defect in knitted
fabric; major or minor
depending on the severity.
Unintentional tucking
caused by a bent latch on
the latch needle or by the
needle not being raised to
the proper height for the old
loop then to be cast off.
Usually two small distorted
stitches, side by side
BIRDS EYE
BACKING
fabrics In weft-knitted rib
jacquard fabric
In weft-knitted rib jacquard
fabric, the reverse side
characterised by courses in
which knitted and float loops
of one colour alternate with
knitted and float loops of
another, within and between
succes-sive courses.
BIRDS EYE WEAVE fabrics A weave which
suggests the eye
of a bird;
A weave which suggests the
eye of a bird; a fabric having
a pattern of very small and
uniform spots, the result of
weave and colour. The
fabric is usually fine clear-
finish worsted and the
90
design gives the
appearance of small
indentations.
It may be simulated in
cotton or viscose, in which
case it has a small diamond
pattern with the birds eye
indentation in the centre.
Cotton fabrics are often
used as towelling.
BIREFRINGENCE general A property of
anisotropic
materials
A property of anisotropic
materials, which manifests
itself as a splitting of a light
ray into components having
different vibration directions
which are transmitted at
different velocities.
BISSO LINEN fabrics See Altar cloth See Altar cloth.
BISU fibers, filaments,
yarns
Also called
Husks
Also called Husks. Silk
waste remaining on cocoons
at the bottom of the basin
after reeling.
BITE seams, stitches See Bight See Bight
BIVOLTINE SILK fibers, filaments,
yarns
Silk produced by
bivoltine
silkworm
Silk produced by bivoltine
silkworm, which produces
two generations per year.
BLACK FELT fabrics felt manufactured
to various
shades of the
colour black.
Those classifications of felt
manufactured to various
shades of the colour black.
BLACK SUPERFINE fabrics A fine grade of
black woollen
suiting fabric.
A fine grade of black
woollen suiting fabric. Fairly
heavy, fulled, napped and
sheared it has a soft, firm
hand and a lustrous finish.
Used for mens evening
clothes
BLACKJ ACK STAPLE fibers, filaments,
yarns
A smooth, dark,
lustrous leaf fibre
A smooth, dark, lustrous leaf
fibre obtained from a
species of the caryota palm
in Srilanka. Used as a
substitute for horsehair
BLAKY SELVEDGES defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. A wide term
which implies that the
91
selvedge may be of
incorrect yarn count/or ply,
unevenly twisted yarn,
crowded selvedge ends in
the reed, poor harness
timing, harness skips, poor
temple setting, etc.
BLANKET fabrics For bedding, an
unquilted fabric
covering,
designed
primarily to
provide thermal
insulation.
For bedding, an unquilted
fabric covering, designed
primarily to provide thermal
insulation.
Conventional blanket: A
blanket woven in either a
plain or a twill weave that is
napped on both sides.
Flocked blanket: A blanket
made with a fishnet-type
scrim sandwiched between
two thin layers of foam with
flock adhered to the outside
of the foam.
Nonwoven blanket: A
blanket produced by
bonding or interlocking of
fibres, or both, accompanied
by mechanical, or solvent
means, or combination
thereof.
Thermal blanket: A blanket
woven so that cells or
openings are created in the
fabric so that air warmed by
the body is trapped between
the yarns, such as textured
or leno weaves. This
product may be napped or
unnapped
BLANKET CLOTH fabrics Named after
Thomas
Blanqutte, a
Flemish weaver
who lived in the
fourteenth
century. Thick
cloth heavily
napped and
Named after Thomas
Blanqutte, a Flemish weaver
who lived in the fourteenth
century. Thick cloth heavily
napped and fulled. Suitable
for rugs, dressing gowns,
blankets, casual coats,
shawls, stoles, etc. Warmest
made in wool or worsted,
92
fulled but now also made from
other fibres or mixtures. Not
hardwearing if made into
clothing.
BLANKET MARK defects See Sanforizing
mark
See Sanforizing mark
BLAZE fibers, filaments,
yarns
See Cocoon
strippings
See Cocoon strippings.
BLAZER CLOTH fabrics A type of flannel
or melton used
for blazers.
A type of flannel or melton
used for blazers. Usually
wool but can be mixtures.
Was traditionally striped, but
is now also in plain colours.
Right side usually slightly
napped. Used for blazers
because it is not necessary
to line it.
BLEACH chemicals, textile
auxiliaries
Also called
Bleaching agent.
A product for
cleaning,
brightening,
whitening,
Also called Bleaching agent.
A product for cleaning,
brightening, whitening, and
aiding the removal of soils
and stains from textile
materials by oxidation, that
is inclusive of both chlorine
and non-chlorine products.
A chemical reagent that will
destroy the natural colouring
matter of textiles, leaving
them considerably lighter in
colour.
BLEACHING processes,
operations
Process of
improving the
whiteness of
textile material by
decolorizing it
from the grey
state
Process of improving the
whiteness of textile material
by decolorizing it from the
grey state. In addition,
bleaching increases the
ability of the yarns and
fabrics to absorb dyestuffs
uniformly, dissolves natural
pectins, waxes, small
particles of foreign matter,
and warp sizing on the
yarns. Peroxide or chlorine
compounds are usually
used for bleaching.
BLEACHING AGENT See Bleach See Bleach
93
BLEACHING OF
TEXTILE ARTICLES
processes,
operations
A process carried
out in an
aqueous medium
before, during or
after washing
processes
A process carried out in an
aqueous medium before,
during or after washing
processes, requiring the use
of a bleaching agent for the
purpose of removing stains
and/or improving whiteness
BLEEDING defects See Colour
bleeding.
See Colour bleeding.
BLEEDING CHECKS fabrics A plain weave,
yarn dyed fabric
with colours,
which may be
caused to bleed.
A plain weave, yarn dyed
fabric with colours, which
may be caused to bleed.
These yarns form over-
checks, which bleed or run
during the finishing process
and tint the balance of the
fabric.
BLEND fibers, filaments,
yarns
The mixture of
dissimilar fibres
in any fibrous
assembly such
as sliver, yarn or
fabric
The mixture of dissimilar
fibres in any fibrous
assembly such as sliver,
yarn or fabric. Blend is an
intimate combination of
fibres before or during
spinning so that individual
yarns contain two or more
different fibres. The reasons
why blends of fibres are
used, can apply in
combination as well as
separately; for economy (to
reduce the cost of a fabric
by the use of a cheap fibre
blended with a more
expensive fibre), for
combination properties (to
effect a compromise where
no one fibre is ideal by
combining two or more
fibres each contributing
something to the whole) and
for decorative or colour
effect (some fibres have a
distinctive appearance,
lustre or texture, and fibres
vary in their affinity for dye).
94
BLEND TWIST fibers, filaments,
yarns
See Blended
yarn.
See Blended yarn.
BLENDED FABRIC fabrics A fabric, which
has blended
yarns
A fabric, which has blended
yarns in either the warp or
the weft or in both
BLENDED YARN fibers, filaments,
yarns
Also callled
Blend twist
Also callled Blend twist. A
yarn that contains more than
one type of fibre or a yarn
combination in which there
are dissimilar component
yarns, especially with
respect to fibre and
filaments. See also
Combination yarn, Self-
blended yarn
BLENDING processes,
operations
The process of
producing a
Blend
The process of producing a
Blend, i.e. to mix dissimilar
fibres prior to subsequent
processing. Blending of
fibres is done in the form of
staple during preparation for
spinning. Different types of
filament are combined to
form a blend filament yarn.
See also Mixture fabric.
BLIND HEM garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A hemming
method
A hemming method in which
the stitches are placed
between the hem allowance
and the outside of the
garment.
BLIND STITCH seams, stitches A stitch (either by
hand or machine)
A stitch (either by hand or
machine), which does not
go right through the fabric.
BLIND TWILL fabrics A term for a
fabric in which
the twill line is
indistinct.
A term for a fabric in which
the twill line is indistinct.
BLINDING defects a marked loss of
lustre of fibres
Term used to describe a
marked loss of lustre of
fibres during wet
processing.
BLISTER KNIT fabrics A knit fabric with
an irregular
raised surface
A knit fabric with an irregular
raised surface that gives the
impression of blisters or
95
swellings. The blisters are
formed during knitting
special yarn on selected
cylinder needles only, to
form the surface-texture
fabric. A base yarn is knitted
on dial and cylinder needles
to form the base fabric.
BLOCK apparatus,
equipage, tools
Wood, metal or
linoleum blocks,
engraved with
patterns
Wood, metal or linoleum
blocks, engraved with
patterns, employed in block
printing.
BLOCK PATTERN apparatus,
equipage, tools
A template of the
basic pattern
shape
A template of the basic
pattern shape, upon which
design details can be
superimposed. See also
Pat-tern.
BLOCK PRINTING processes,
operations
See Hand block
printing
See Hand block printing
BLONDE LACE fabrics Silk lace with
floral designs
Silk lace with floral designs
but with boldly defined holes
in the flower heads. Very
expensive.
BLOOD fibers, filaments,
yarns
A term used in
connection with
various
fractionsof
merino blood in a
certain sheep.
A term used in connection
with various fractions (1/2
blood, 3/4 blood, Full blood)
to denote the percentage of
merino blood in a certain
sheep. Now, in common
practice, the term denotes
any wool that is of the same
fineness as the wool grown
on such a sheep
BLOOM general A surface
paleness
A surface paleness
observed when a coloured
textile material is viewed
overhand. See Overhand.
BLOT defects Printing defect. Printing defect. An area of
uniform colour appearing
incorrectly in a printed
design. The defect is often
caused by colour paste
falling on to the fabric, or
contamination from printing
rollers or a screen.
96
BLOTCH defects Fabric defect.
Also called Oil
spot
Fabric defect. Also called Oil
spot. An irregularly shaped
off-coloured area caused
mostly by grease or oil.
BLOTCH PRINT processes,
operations
The broad, solid
background
expanse of
colour in a
printed design
The broad, solid background
expanse of colour in a
printed design. The detail
colours are usually on
different print-rollers or print-
screens.
BLOW ROOM general A section in a
cotton spinning
mill
The section in a cotton
spinning mill where the
preparatory processes of
opening, cleaning and
blending are carried out.
BLUCH fabrics See Bouch. See Bouch.
BLUE STAINED
COTTON
fibers, filaments,
yarns
See under
Stained cotton
See under Stained cotton
BLUE-WHITE FINISH fabrics Appearance of a
fabric that has
been treated with
a small amount
of bluing after
bleaching.
Appearance of a fabric that
has been treated with a
small amount of bluing after
bleaching. The object is to
neutralise the yellowish
appearance of not fully
bleached cotton.
BLUETTE fabrics A weft faced 2/2
twill-weave fabric
used for overall
A weft faced 2/2 twill-weave
fabric used for overalls.
Originally made from blue-
dyed yarns, but now piece-
dyed also.
BLUFF EDGES garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Edges finished
without outside
stitching
Edges finished without
outside stitching
BLUFFING processes,
operations
the process of
fastening down
the front edge of
facings on to the
forepart canvas
In garment manufacturing,
the process of fastening
down the front edge of
facings on to the forepart
canvas to preserve the
shape of edges finished
without outside stitching
BLUING processes,
operations
A step in the
process of
bleaching white
yarn or fabric
1. A step in the process of
bleaching white yarn or
fabric with a yellow cast to
make it whiter through the
97
with a yellow cast
to make it whiter
application of a blue or
reddish-blue dyestuff, which
neutralises the colour. 2.
Any dyestuff used for bluing.
BOARDING processes,
operations
A process,
involving heating
under moist or
dry conditions,
carried out to
confer a desired
shape or size on
hose or other
knitted garments
whilst on a
former.
A process, involving heating
under moist or dry
conditions, carried out to
confer a desired shape or
size on hose or other knitted
garments whilst on a
former. When carried out
before dyeing, the process
is known as Dye-boarding.
The article in the damp
condition after scouring
and/or bleaching and/or
dyeing is dried on a
specially shaped former,
either by heating this former
internally or by placing it
between two steam-heated
platens. If the drying is done
in a hot chamber, the
process is known as
Machine finishing. When the
boarding is done by
pressing between heated
platens, it is usually known
as Trim pressing or Press
finishing.
BOARDY fabrics Description of
woven and knit
fabrics that are
hard, stiff or
tough hand
Description of woven and
knit fabrics that are hard,
stiff or tough hand; they are
board-like. In knitted fabric it
is mainly caused by stitches
being too tight or yarn being
too thick.
BOBBIN apparatus,
equipage, tools
A small tube,
with or without
flanges, on to
which is wound
the under-thread
of a lockstitch
machine.
1. IN SEWING MACHINE. A
small tube, with or without
flanges, on to which is
wound the under-thread of a
lockstitch machine. The
spool is held in the spool
case underneath the throat
plate.
98
2. IN SPINNING, AND
WEAVING. A small spool-
like body on which yarn is
wound. Used in various
forms
BOBBIN FININGS fabrics Lace. A leavers-
lace construction
in which threads
from the brass
bobbin provide
the filling-in of
the objects
Lace. A leavers-lace
construction in which
threads from the brass
bobbin provide the filling-in
of the objects. Both S and Z
warps are necessary, and
one thread of each twist is
required for every bobbin
thread. Although the warp
threads traverse, the greater
tension of the S-twist
threads causes them to
remain straight and to pull
the bobbin threads
sideways. The Z-twist warp
threads interlace with the
bobbin threads down the
centre of the wale. In
addition, thick threads from
beams may be used,
according to the pattern
requirements, for outlining
the objects.
BOBBIN LACE fabrics Also called Pillow
lace. Hand-made
lace produced in
the twisting and
crossing of
threads
Also called Pillow lace.
Hand-made lace produced
in the twisting and crossing
of threads that are fed from
bobbins and worked into a
pattern pricked on
parchment or card pinned
down to a pillow. As it is
worked, the lace is secured
in position by the insertion of
pins into the pillow. A very
old craft.
BOBBIN NET fabrics Also called
Sandfly net,
Mosquito net. A
hole-mesh fabric
Also called Sandfly net,
Mosquito net. A hole-mesh
fabric. Originally plain net,
now commonly made on
warp knitting machinery.
99
Used for bridal veils,
mosquito nets and also as a
foundation for embroi-dery.
BOBBINET MACHINE apparatus,
equipage, tools
See under Lace
machines.
See under Lace machines.
BOBBLING fabrics Unpleasant
appearance of
fabric surface of
used garment
Unpleasant appearance of
fabric surface of used
garment, caused bytiny
fibre-ends sticking out on
the face of the fabric,
caused by regular wear and
repeated refurbishings
BODICE garments, made-
ups, assemblies
The section of a
womans
garment covering
the body from
neck to waist
The section of a womans
garment covering the body
from neck to waist
BODKIN apparatus,
equipage, tools
A pointed
instrument for
piercing holes in
cloth
1. A pointed instrument for
piercing holes in cloth.
2. A needle with a blunt
point and a large eye for
drawing tape, elastic, etc.
through a hem, etc.
3. A bone or plastic
instrument for removing
bastings.
BODY fabrics,accessories The compact,
solid, or firm feel
of a fabric.
1. The compact, solid, or
firm feel of a fabric.
2. The area of woven fabric
between the selvedges.
3. See Hood
BODY CARPET garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Plain or
patterned,
unbordered
carpet in piece
form.
Plain or patterned,
unbordered carpet in piece
form.
BODY DIMENSIONS garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Garment-related
term
Garment-related term. See
under Garment sizing
system
BODY FLEX general The amount that
the human body
will bend
The amount that the human
body will bend. The degree
of body flex is used as a
measurement in determining
the amount of stretch
100
required in a given apparel.
BODY
MEASUREMENTS
garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Garment-related
term.
Garment-related term. See
under Garment sizing
system.
BOILING processes,
operations
Usually cotton,
linen, silk, etc.
are boiled to
remove the
natural gums
Usually cotton, linen, silk,
etc. are boiled to remove the
natural gums as one of the
first steps in textile
processing/finishing
BOILING-OFF processes,
operations
The removal of
oils, sizing and
other impurities
from the textile
material,
The removal of oils, sizing
and other impurities from
the textile material, in
preparation for bleaching
and dyeing.
BOLDUC accessories Also called
Advertising tape.
Also called Advertising tape.
A weftless narrow fabric
consisting of a number of
warp threads held together
with an adhesive.
BOLDWORK CLOTH fabrics See Binca cloth See Binca cloth
BOLIVIA fabrics Expensive,
plushy, soft, firm,
and thick, top
quality fabric
usually of wool
Expensive, plushy, soft,
firm, and thick, top quality
fabric usually of wool, and
often containing a small
amount of special fibre,
such as alpaca or mohair.
Closely woven and of fine
texture with a cut pile
surface. This pile is cut in
ribs running in the warp
direction. Used for coats,
cloaks, etc.
BOLL general A seed-case and
its contents on
the cotton plant.
A seed-case and its
contents on the cotton plant.
BOLT fabrics See Piece See Piece
BOLTING CLOTH fabrics A lightweight
open fabric, with
fine and uniform
mesh, used for
sifting flour or for
screen-printing.
A lightweight open fabric,
with fine and uniform mesh,
used for sifting flour or for
screen-printing. Both warp
and weft threads are
accurately spaced and are
woven in simple leno or
other non-slip con-struction
101
in order to maintain the
mesh size
BOLTON SHEETING fabrics A sheeting fabric
of 2/2 twill weave
containing a
condenser weft.
A sheeting fabric of 2/2 twill
weave containing a
condenser weft.
BOMBAX fibers, filaments,
yarns
See under
Cotton trees.
See under Cotton trees.
BOMBAZINE fabrics One of the oldest
fabrics known,
this was a fine
silk or wool fabric
of plain or twill
weave for formal
dresses.
One of the oldest fabrics
known, this was a fine silk or
wool fabric of plain or twill
weave for formal dresses. In
black, it was the traditional
mourning cloth. Now made
from silk warp and worsted
weft with imitations made
from viscose or cotton. May
be fairly crisp. Used mainly
for evening and wedding-
gowns, if silk or viscose it is
lustrous.
BOMBYX MORI SILK fibers, filaments,
yarns
Silk produced by
the cultivated
silkworm
Silk produced by the
cultivated silkworm, which
feeds on mulberry leaves.
BOND STRENGTH
TEST
general A test to
measure the
force necessary
to separate
bonded layers of
fabric or floor
covering
A test to measure the force
necessary to separate
bonded layers of fabric or
floor covering. See also
Adhesion test.
BONDED FABRIC fabrics A lightweight,
usually knitted,
cloth which is
strengthened and
thickened
1. A lightweight, usually
knitted, cloth which is
strengthened and thickened
by having a lining material
fixed to it permanently by
means of heat and
pressure. Often a very thin
layer of foam interlining is
placed between two layers
of the fabric. 2. A layered
fabric structure wherein a
face or shell fabric is joined
to a backing fabric, such as
tricot, with an adhesive that
102
does not significantly add to
the thickness of the
combined fabrics.
BONDED FIBRE
FABRIC
fabrics These are made
from a variety of
fibres used on
the same
principle as in
felt, but bonded
together
chemically
These are made from a
variety of fibres used on the
same principle as in felt, but
bonded together chemically
as, unlike wool, they do not
have inherent felting
properties. A structure
consisting of one or more
webs or masses of fibres
held together with a bonding
material or by fusion. These
have developed into many
directions, which include
household clothes and
cleaning pads, industrial and
military protective clothing,
disposables and as
interfacing and other
haberdashery items. See
also Nonwoven fabrics.
BOOK fibers, filaments,
yarns
A parcel of hanks
of raw silk whose
total mass is
usually 2 kg.
A parcel of hanks of raw silk
whose total mass is usually
2 kg.
BOOK CLOTH fabrics Fabrics of many
qualities, used by
book-binders
Fabrics of many qualities,
used by book-binders. They
are generally of plain
weave, usually coloured,
heavily filled, and
calendered or embossed
between hot rollers.
BOOK FOLD processes,
operations
A method of
folding the fabric
A method of folding the
fabric; fabric doubled
selvedge to selvedge, then
folded back and forth upon
itself in predetermined
lengths. BORDER I The
sides of a fabric, particularly
when woven with a fancy
design.
BOOK MUSLIN fabrics A method of
folding the fabric
Inexpensive white muslin-
type fabric, heavily sized.
103
Used for stiffening bags,
hats, wide belts, etc..
BORDER fabrics The sides of a
fabric
The sides of a fabric,
particularly when woven
with a fancy design.
BOTANY TWILL fabrics Cloth woven from
botany quality
worsted yarns in
various weights
Cloth woven from botany
quality worsted yarns in
various weights. The
weaves are 2 and 2 or 4 and
4 twills producing smooth
fabric used for mens and
womens suitings.
Expensive cloth as botany is
the top quality worsted yarn.
Used for suits, skirts, et
BOTANY WOOL fibers, filaments,
yarns,fabrics
yarns and fabrics
made from fine
merino wool.
Term for yarns and fabrics
made from fine merino wool.
See also under Wool.
BOTTOM ASSEMBLY accessories In zippers, the
components of
the lowermost
part of the slide
fastene
In zippers, the components
of the lowermost part of the
slide fastener, which
determine whether the slide
fastener will be non-
separable or separable. See
also Non-separable zipper
and Separable zip-per
BOTTOM STOP accessories A thorough
scouring
In zippers, a part affixed to
both stringers immediately
below, or over, the chain,
holding the two stringers
together at the bottom and
preventing the slider from
leaving chain
BOTTOM-CLOSED
SHEDDING
processes,
operations
See under
Closed shedding
See under Closed shedding
BOTTOMING processes,
operations
A thorough
scouring
1. A thorough scouring, in
preparation for bleaching.,
dyeing, or finishing. 2.
Dyeing a substrate for
subsequent topping.
BOUCH fabrics Also called
Bluch
Also called Bluch. A plain
weave, fine, woollen fabric
left in the undyed state.
Used as a shirting material,
104
this cloth is much used by
the clergy in France.
BOUCL fibers, filaments,
yarns,fabrics
A type of fancy
yarn with a curl
or loop effect,
made from two or
more threads
twisted to-gether.
1. YARN. A type of fancy
yarn with a curl or loop
effect, made from two or
more threads twisted to-
gether. Generally speaking,
boucl yarns exhibit an
irregular pattern of semi-
circular loop and sig-moid
spirals. Fibres used for
boucl yarns may be wool,
worsted, polyester, nylon,
viscose, acrylic or blends.
2. FABRIC. The fabric made
from boucl yarns has a
rough surface. It may be
either woven or knitted. With
the latter, the loops appear
only on the right side. The
fabric has give in it, due to
the elasticity of the yarn,
knitted boucl tends to have
quite a lot of give. Fabrics
range from soft and
lightweight to firm and coat-
weight
BOUCL KNIT fabrics Knit fabric with a
boucl effect on
the right side,
achieved by the
introduction of an
inlaid yarn fed
into the knitting
machine and
trapped as the
knit stitch is
made.
Knit fabric with a boucl
effect on the right side,
achieved by the introduction
of an inlaid yarn fed into the
knitting machine and
trapped as the knit stitch is
made. Fabrics are medium
weight and are usually
produced from polyester,
nylon and acrylic yarns.
Used for sweater dresses,
sweater-type tops, jackets
BOUND SEAM-
FINISH
seams, stitches A finish for the
raw edges of a
plain seam, in
which another
fabric encloses
the raw edges of
A finish for the raw edges of
a plain seam, in which
another fabric encloses the
raw edges of one or more
seam allowances. A bound
seam-finish is made by (1)
105
one or more
seam
allowances.
encasing the raw seam
allowance edge(s) in
double-fold bias tape, seam
binding or light weight fabric
such as tricot or net. If tape
or binding are used, the
wider side of the tape or
binding is underneath, (2)
machine stitching through all
thick-nesses close to the
edge of the binding or the
raw edge of the fabric.
Usually each seam
allowance is encased
individually; occasionally,
seam allowances may be
placed together and treated
as one, such as in
necklines. (Compare Hong
Kong seam finish.)
BOURDON CORD accessories A cord consisting
of a central core
helically covered
by continuous
filament yarn
A cord consisting of a
central core helically
covered by continuous
filament yarn. Used as a
means of accentuating or
outlining motifs in lace
fabrics and in the
manufacture of trimmings.
See also Gimp.
BOURDONETTE fibers, filaments,
yarns
A cord produced
by twisting
several yarns
together
A cord produced by twisting
several yarns together for
use as a heavy thread in
lace fabrics in order to
simulate a bourdon cord
BOURETTE fabrics Silk cloth made
with yarn spun
from carded
short fibres of
lower quality
waste silk
Silk cloth made with yarn
spun from carded short
fibres of lower quality waste
silk. Fabric is hairy and
interspersed with nubs of
fibre. Used for blouses,
shirts, soft jackets and
skirts.
BOURRELET fabrics A weft knitted,
non-jacquard
double-jersey
A weft knitted, non-jacquard
double-jersey fabric made
on an interlock basis which
106
fabric made on
an interlock basis
which is
characterised by
horizontal ridges
on the effect side
is characterised by
horizontal ridges on the
effect side. The knitting
sequence is generally a
number of courses of
interlock, followed by a
number of courses knitted
on one set of needles only.
BOW defects Fabric defect Fabric defect. Also called
Bowed filling. Fabric
condition resulting when
weft yarns or knitted
courses are displaced from
a line perpendicular to the
selvedges and form one or
more arcs across the width
of the fabric.
BOWED FILLING defects Fabric defect See Bow
BOWING defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect.
1. IN KNITTED FABRIC.
Defect, may be major or
minor. A curvature of the
fabric courses, imposed
during knitting or
subsequent operations. This
distortion is usually caused
by the take-up mechanism
of the knitting machine or
through malfunctions in
tentering. In solid colour
fabrics, not very critical.
2. IN WOVEN FABRIC.
Defect, may be major or
minor. Curvature of the warp
or weft in a cloth. The cloth
is said to be warp or weft-
bowed according to which
set of threads is curved. In
solid colour fabrics not very
critical.
See also Skewness.
BOWKING processes,
operations
Preliminary part
of an old
bleaching
process
Preliminary part of an old
bleaching process. The
process of freeing textile
material from impurity by
107
boiling them in lime.
BOWL apparatus,
equipage, tools
Also called
Bucking.
1. One of a pair of large
rollers forming a nip.
2. A cylinder driving a take-
up package by frictional
contact.
3. An open vessel for such
wet treatments as wool
scouring, crabbing, etc.
Also called Bucking.
Preliminary part of an old
bleaching process. The
process of freeing textile
material from impurity by
boiling them in lime.
BOX CLOTH fabrics All-wool, spun
yarn fabric, with
a fibrous surface
and firm handle.
All-wool, spun yarn fabric,
with a fibrous surface and
firm handle. Surface
completely covered with
fibres so that no threads
show. Woven in a variety of
weaves, depending on the
weight required. Used for
leggings, coachman clothes
and billiards cloth
BOX DYEING processes,
operations
Method of dyeing
in which fabric is
run in a single
piece
Method of dyeing in which
fabric is run in a single
piece, usually in rope form,
through the dye liquor and
then up and over oval,
slatted rollers with each
revolution;
BOX LEATHER fabrics Good quality
leather, which is
boarded,
Good quality leather, which
is boarded, i.e. the surface
is broken up with parallel
creases; a process only
applied to top quality
smooth leather. Very
expensive. Used for shoes
and handbags. See also
Boarding.
BOX LOOM apparatus,
equipage, tools
A loom having
two or more
shuttles
A loom having two or more
shuttles used for weaving
fabrics containing weft yarns
different as to size, twist or
108
colour
BOX MARK defects See Shuttle
mark.
See Shuttle mark.
BOX PLEATS garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A form of
enclosed pleat
A form of enclosed pleat
achieved by double folding
the fabric alternately in
opposite directions.
BOX SPINNING processes,
operations
Also called Pot
spinning,
Also called Pot spinning,
Bucket spinning. A type of
spinning in which a
revolving cylindrical
container is used, the
package being built up in
the inside of the container.
An early form of this de-vice
was known as the topham
box
BOX STAIN defects See Shuttle
mark.
See Shuttle mark.
BRACE WEB accessories Also called
Suspender web
Also called Suspender web.
An elastic or rigid woven
narrow fabric used for the
straps of trousers supports
known as braces or
suspenders.
BRADFORD
SPINNING
processes,
operations
English method
of spinning wool
into worsted yarn
English method of spinning
wool into worsted yarn. The
wool is thoroughly oiled
before it is combed, which
produces a smooth lustrous
yarn used for the worsted
suitings. This is distinct from
the French system, which is
dry spun.
BRAID accessories Also called Plait. Also called Plait. The
product of braiding. Certain
types of woven or knitted
narrow fabrics are described
as braids
BRAID WOOL fibers, filaments,
yarns
Wool grading
term more or less
synonymous with
lustre wool.
Wool grading term more or
less synonymous with lustre
wool. When compared with
merino stock, it is low in
quality and is used in
109
medium and low quality
clothing, carpets, robes,
blankets, and low priced
uniform fabrics.
BRAID, CORED accessories See Cored braid. See Cored braid.
BRAID, DIAMOND accessories See Diamond
braid
See Diamond braid
BRAID, DOUBLE accessories See Diamond
braid
See Diamond braid
BRAID, HOLLOW accessories See Hollow
braid.
See Hollow braid.
BRAID, PLAIN accessories See Plain braid See Plain braid
BRAID, SOLID accessories See Solid braid. See Solid braid.
BRAID, TWILL accessories See Twill braid See Twill braid
BRAIDED FABRIC accessories Cloth having a
structure
produced by
interlacing
several ends of
yarns
Cloth having a structure
produced by interlacing
several ends of yarns in a
manner such that the paths
of the yarns are not parallel
to the fabric axis, i.e. yarns
of any fibre are interlaced
and diagonally plaited. Only
narrow widths can be
produced for cord,
shoelaces, braids for coats
and uniforms. See also
Ribbon.
BRAIDED ROPE accessories A cylindrically
produced rope
made by
intertwining
A cylindrically produced
rope made by intertwining,
Maypole fashion, several to
many strands according to a
definite pattern. See also
under Rope.
BRAIDING processes,
operations
The process of
interlacing three
or more threads
in such a way
that they cross
one another in
diagonal
formation.
The process of interlacing
three or more threads in
such a way that they cross
one another in diagonal
formation. Flat, tubular or
solid constructions may be
formed in this way. Tubular
fabrics made by this process
may be constructed with or
without core, gut, filler, or
stuffing threads, which when
110
present are not interlaced in
the fabric.
BRASS BOBBIN apparatus,
equipage, tools
In lace machines,
the two
machined brass
discs,
In lace machines, the two
machined brass discs,
riveted at the hub to form a
container for binding
threads.
BRATTICE CLOTH fabrics Coarse cotton or
jute fabric made
with a plain
weave and often
impregnated with
chemicals
Coarse cotton or jute fabric
made with a plain weave
and often impregnated with
chemicals to increase gas
and vapour absorption.
Used in many industries
mainly for screens,
ventilators, etc., especially
in mines, in which case it is
often coated. Also called
Absorption fabric
BREAK garments, made-
ups, assemblies
The point where
the lapel starts to
roll over on a
coat
The point where the lapel
starts to roll over on a coat,
usually at the top buttonhole
BREAK FACTOR general See Lea count-
strength product.
See Lea count-strength
product.
BREAK SPINNING processes,
operations
See Open-end
spinning.
See Open-end spinning.
BREAK-OUT defects See Smash. See Smash.
BREAKER FABRIC fabrics See under Tyre
textiles.
See under Tyre textiles.
BREAKING
EXTENSION
general See Extension at
break.
See Extension at break.
BREAKING FORCE general See Tensile
strength at break.
See Tensile strength at
break.
BREAKING LENGTH general The length of a
specimen
(usually yarn)
whose mass is
equal to the
breaking force.
The length of a specimen
(usually yarn) whose mass
is equal to the breaking
force. See Breaking force
BREAKING
MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage, tools
Also called
Button breaker,
Stud breaker
Also called Button breaker,
Stud breaker. A machine for
continuous softening of stiff
fabrics. The fabric is drawn
under tension over the
111
edges of bars (knife-edge
machine), or round rollers
implanted with studs
BREAKING
STRENGTH
general Also called
Tensile strength
Also called Tensile strength.
The maximum tensile force
recorded in extending a test
piece to break-ing point.
See also Tensile strength at
break.
BREAKING STRESS general The maximum
stress developed
in a specimen
stretched to
rupture.
The maximum stress
developed in a specimen
stretched to rupture. The
force is usually related to
the area of the unstrained
specimen. If the actual
stress, defined in terms of
the area of the strained
specimen, is used, then its
maximum value is called the
actual breaking stress.
BREATHE processes,
operations
See under Air-
cooled finish.
See under Air-cooled finish.
BREECH WOOL fibers, filaments,
yarns
See Britch wool See Britch wool
BRETON LACE fabrics A net ground with
heavy
embroidered
designs
A net ground with heavy
embroidered designs; a
feature of which is that the
embroidery threads are very
often coloured
BRI-NYLON fibers, filaments,
yarns,fabrics
A British
polyamide fibre
used mainly in
the manufacture
of carpets,
lingerie,
nightwear and
lightweight
knitwear.
A British polyamide fibre
used mainly in the
manufacture of carpets,
lingerie, nightwear and
lightweight knitwear.
Surface can be brushed to
form a short pile.
Hardwearing, washes easily
and dries quickly as it is not
absorbent
BRIBE fabrics See Fents. See Fents.
BRICKSTITCH seams, stitches An embroidery
construction (flat
couching stitch)
An embroidery construction
(flat couching stitch)
resembling a series of bricks
BRIDED RUG garments, made- A textile A textile floorcovering of
112
ups, assemblies floorcovering braided cords sewn together
BRIDES LACE fabrics Also called Bars
lace
Also called Bars lace.
Certain lace designs in
which, connecting bars (or
legs) used to join the objects
in lace, where there is no
net ground.
BRIDGE TOP STOP accessories In zippers, a part
affixed
immediately
above the chain,
In zippers, a part affixed
immediately above the
chain, holding the tops of
the two stringers together
and preventing the slider
from leaving the chain
BRIDLE garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A narrow strip of
fabric which is
attached to the
interlining along
the roll of the
lapel
A narrow strip of fabric
which is attached to the
interlining along the roll of
the lapel to hold and con-trol
it.
BRIGHT fibers, filaments,
yarns, fabrics
Textile materials,
particularly of
man-made fibres
Textile materials, particularly
of man-made fibres, whose
natural lustre has not been
significantly reduced. The
term clear is commonly
used to denote the absence
of deslustrant in synthetic
fibres, whereas bright may
denote the presence of a
very small amount of
delustrant, insufficient to
reduce the lustre of the fibre
significantly.
BRIGHT LACE fabrics Openwork effects
within a wale in
lace furnishings
Openwork effects within a
wale in lace furnishings,
obtained without distorting
the warp threads.
BRIGHT PICK defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. A tight pick
usually found in a fabric
containing continuous
filament weft.
BRIGHT YARN defects Fabric defect Fabric defect. In fabrics
made from man-made
fibres, a warp or weft yarn of
higher lustre than the
adjacent yarns. The defect
113
is caused by irregularity in
processing of yarn, e.g.
uneven distribution of
delustrant, or by mixing
yarns of different delustrant
content, viz. dull, semi-dull,
etc.
BRIGHTON
HONEYCOMB
fabrics Usually cotton
fabric, with a
typical
honeycomb
effect
Usually cotton fabric, with a
typical honeycomb effect but
on the right side only. See
under Honey-comb.
BRILLIANTINE fabrics A dress cloth of
cotton warp and
lustre worsted
weft
A dress cloth of cotton warp
and lustre worsted weft.
Generally of plain weave,
but jacquard designs are
sometimes used.
BRIN fibers, filaments,
yarns
A single filament
of silk
A single filament of silk
resulting from the
degumming of the bave
withdrawn from the cocoon.
BRISE BISE garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Lace curtaining Lace curtaining designed to
be hung horizontally across
the lower portion of a
window, close to the frame;
provision usually being
made for the insertion of a
curtain rod or wire
BRITCH WOOL fibers, filaments,
yarns
Also called
Breech wool
Also called Breech wool.
Wool from the lower thighs
or hindquarters of the
sheep; usually the coarsest
type found in the fleece. It
has considerable length but
it is very irregular and of
little value. This wool is used
in cheap suitings and
coatings, windbreakers, ski
cloth, mackinac material,
and car-pets.
BROAD RIB FABRIC fabrics See under Rib
fabric, weft-
knitted
See under Rib fabric, weft-
knitted
BROADCLOTH fabrics See Cotton
broadcloth,
See Cotton broadcloth,
Woollen broadcloth.
114
Woollen
broadcloth.
BROADTAIL fibers, filaments,
yarns
A flat, lustrous
fur, slightly wavy.
A flat, lustrous fur, slightly
wavy. The pelt of the young
unborn Persian lamb.
BROCADE fabrics Figured fabric
having
multicoloured or
self-coloured
floral raised
designs,
sometimes with
metal threads
added.
Figured fabric having
multicoloured or self-
coloured floral raised
designs, sometimes with
metal threads added. The
figure is developed by
floating the warp threads,
the weft threads, or both,
and interlaced in a more or
less irregular order. Made
on J acquard loom, the
ground is formed of a weave
of simple character, usually
satin weave.
BROCADE VELVET fabrics Velvet with the
pile sheared at
different heights
to form a design,
sometimes floral.
Velvet with the pile sheared
at different heights to form a
design, sometimes floral.
Plainer designs in dark
colours are used for mens
jackets. Usually very
expensive
BROCATELLE fabrics A heavily figured
furnishing or
upholstery cloth
similar to
brocade.
A heavily figured furnishing
or upholstery cloth similar to
brocade. The pattern is
padded out into high relief
by the warp threads in a
satin weave against a
closely woven background
structure. Two or more wefts
are used and, in the better
qualities, there is an extra
binder warp. Heavy yarns
used are plain and
mercerised cotton, viscose,
and linen.
BROCH fabrics Raised designs
on the surface of
fabric, often
introduced with
the warp.
Raised designs on the
surface of fabric, often
introduced with the warp. A
brocade fabric that is figured
by additional threads
115
introduced by means of
swivel weaving
BRODERIE
ANGLAISE
fabrics Expensive, best
quality fabrics.
Expensive, best quality
fabrics. Plain-weave cotton
or polyester and cotton, in
which shaped holes, e.g.
leaves, and round holes are
punched and then
embroidered. Most fabrics
are white or plain colours
with self-colour embroidery,
but a few are embroidered
in a contrasting colour.
Some fabrics have a border
design, some a scalloped
edge. Creases easily.
BROKEN COLOUR
PATTERN
defects Fabric defect in
woven fabrics.
Fabric defect in woven
fabrics. Usually caused by a
coloured yarn out of place
on the frame.
BROKEN CROW fabrics See Crowfoot
and Crow twill
See Crowfoot and Crow twill
BROKEN ENDS defects See End-out. See End-out.
BROKEN FACE fabrics A term for
sateens
A term for sateens made in
such a way that the weave
effect is broken up.
BROKEN
FILAMENTS
defects Yarn defect. Also
called Strip
backs, Skin
backs, Split
filaments.
Yarn defect. Also called
Strip backs, Skin backs,
Split filaments. Individual
filaments of a multi-filament
yarn inadvertently ruptured,
usually through mechanical
damage. See also
Filamentation.
BROKEN PATTERN defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. When the
pattern in the fabric is not
shown according to the
planned design. Usually this
breaking of design may
result because of some
malfunctioning of the
machine, or mistake on the
part of operator
BROKEN PICK defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Also called
116
Also called Cut
pick, Filling run
out and Missing
pick
Cut pick, Filling run out and
Missing pick. A pick missing
from a portion of the woven
width. A discontinuity in the
weft direction caused by a
break or cut in the weft yarn.
BROKEN SELVEDGE defects See Cut
selvedge
See Cut selvedge
BROKEN TWILL fabrics Any twill weave
in which the
move number is
not constant.
Any twill weave in which the
move number is not
constant, with the result that
the continuity of the twill line
is broken.
BROKEN WEAVE defects See Crack mark. See Crack mark.
BRONZINESS processes,
operations
A metallic sheen
which can occur
on a textile
material or
surface coating
A metallic sheen which can
occur on a textile material or
surface coating, usually
when deeply coloured. In
textile colouration the effect
is usually caused by
excessive concentration of
colorant at the surface of the
substrate. Sometimes this
effect is produce
deliberately with some very
dark dyeings of indigo and
sulphur black. It is an effect
when intentional, but an
undesirable defect if not
intended.
BRONZING processes,
operations
See under
Oxidised oil
staining.
See under Oxidised oil
staining.
BROWN LACE fabrics Lace in the
condition in
which it leaves
the machine
Lace in the condition in
which it leaves the machine,
before any bleaching,
dyeing, or finishing
treatments has been carried
out
BRUGES LACE fabrics Bar lace, named
after its original
place of
manufacture,
Bruges.
Bar lace, named after its
original place of
manufacture, Bruges. Very
similar in appearance to
Honiton lace. Woven as a
tape with a fine thread.
117
Coarse types are used for
curtains, bedcovers and
tablecloths.
BRUISE defects Fabric defect.
Also called
Pressure mark
Fabric defect. Also called
Pressure mark. An area that
has been subjected to
impact or pressure, which
differs from the adjacent
normal fabric.
BRUSHED ACRYLIC fabrics light to medium
weight fabric with
a brushed effect
on one or both
sides; often
printed, usually
woven
Fabrics of this description
are usually light to medium
weight fabric with a brushed
effect on one or both sides;
often printed, usually woven.
Used for dresses, warm
shirts, childrens clothes.
BRUSHED ACRYLIC
KNIT
fabrics Thick fabric,
usually light and
woolly; most
often, acrylic
fibre on a jersey
backing with the
right side
brushed into a
furry surface.
Thick fabric, usually light
and woolly; most often,
acrylic fibre on a jersey
backing with the right side
brushed into a furry surface.
Used for dressing gowns,
sleeping bags, baby coats,
zip-front casual jackets,
toys, collars and cuffs. It is
extremely inflammable and
to be used with extra
caution if employed in the
manufacture of dresses for
young children
BRUSHED COTTON fabrics Plain or printed
cotton cloth
slightly brushed
on one side to
add warmth.
Plain or printed cotton cloth
slightly brushed on one side
to add warmth. This
additional warmth makes it
very suitable for childrens
clothes, winter blouses and
shirts. An inexpensive
fabric; it creases easily but
washes well. Does not wear
as well as unbrushed cotton.
The brushing process may
be applied to the right or
wrong side of the fabric.
Extremely inflammable, so
not used for nightdresses for
118
children or elderly people
BRUSHED DENIM fabrics Denim weave
cloth, usually all
cotton, with a
brushed finish on
the right side.
Denim weave cloth, usually
all cotton, with a brushed
finish on the right side. Has
a softer appearance than
conventional denim, but its
use is usually confined to
shirtwaist dresses, safari-
style jackets, trousers, jeans
and casual shirts for men
and childrens clothes.
Hardwearing, but not as
tough as denim. Usually
found only in a limited range
of colours such as denim-
blue, green, red, and brown.
BRUSHED NYLON fabrics Nylon jersey
brushed on the
right side to
make it warm.
Nylon jersey brushed on the
right side to make it warm. It
is strong and hardwearing.
Inclined to build up static
more than most nylon due to
the brushing. It is much
warmer than plain nylon
jersey but is not particularly
an attractive fabric, so its
use is confined to nightwear,
and sheets. Does not
crease. It washes easily and
dries quickly due to the
inability of nylon fibre to
absorb moisture. White
fabrics adopt a grey tone
unless washed separately.
BRUSHED
POLYESTER
fabrics A fine soft cloth
with a brushed
surface
A fine soft cloth with a
brushed surface resembling
velveteen in appearance.
BRUSHED WOOL fibers, filaments,
yarns,fabrics
Term used in the
pulled-wool
trade.
1. IN FIBRES. Term used in
the pulled-wool trade.
Woollen fibres, taken from
scrubbing or brushing, that
is given to the stock in order
to remove burrs, shives, grit
dirt, and other foreign
matter. This treatment is
given to the wool when it is
119
on the pelt.
2. IN FABRIC. Knit or woven
woollen fabric, which has
been brushed, napped or
teaseled. Find usage in
some garments, scarves,
sweaters, trimmings, etc.
BRUSHING processes,
operations
A finishing
process in which
a nap is raised
on a fabric
surface
A finishing process in which
a nap is raised on a fabric
surface by passing it over
one or more revolving
circular brushes. Similar to
napping, but usually a less
vigorous process.
BRUSSELS CARPET garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A loop-pile
carpet, woven on
a Wilton loom,
over unbladed
wires.
A loop-pile carpet, woven on
a Wilton loom, over
unbladed wires. There is a
wide range of carpeting
under the name and the
variety and colour patterns
vary considerably.
BRUSSELS LACE fabrics Type of lace
originally made
with very fine
linen threads.
Type of lace originally made
with very fine linen threads.
The motifs were made as
bobbin lace and then
appliqud onto a mesh
ground. Now all fibres may
be used and the motifs and
the mesh are usually
machine-made.
BUBBLE defects Use preferred
term Blister
Use preferred term Blister
BUCK apparatus,
equipage, tools
The lower, static,
working surface
of the pressing
machine
The lower, static, working
surface of the pressing
machine, which incorporates
the shape or contour onto
which the garment is laid.
BUCKET SPINNING processes,
operations
See Box spinning See Box spinning
BUCKING processes,
operations
See Bowking See Bowking
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE
LACE
fabrics Very fine hand-
made lace
named after its
Very fine hand-made lace
named after its place origin.
It is characterised by a
120
place origin. diamond mesh ground,
often narrow, and usually
used only for trimming.
BUCKRAM fabrics A stiff fabric,
generally linen or
cotton, made by
impregnating a
plain-weave
open-sett fabric
with fillers and
stiffeners
A stiff fabric, generally linen
or cotton, made by
impregnating a plain-weave
open-sett fabric with fillers
and stiffeners. Alternatively
fabric consisting of two
stiffened fabrics bonded
together, the fabrics being
not necessarily of identical
construction. Used for
linings, millinery, waistbands
and bookbinding.
BUCKSKIN fabrics White or pinky-
beige leather,
which originally
came from the
elk and deer, but
now also
obtained from
sheep.
White or pinky-beige
leather, which originally
came from the elk and deer,
but now also obtained from
sheep. Strong but supple.
Used for clothes, shoes,
gloves, belts, etc.
BUCKSKIN FABRIC fabrics A fabric similar in
appearance to,
but heavier than,
a doeskin fabric.
A fabric similar in
appearance to, but heavier
than, a doeskin fabric. It is
made from fine merino wool,
closely sett, heavily milled,
dressed, and closely cut.
BUFFALO CLOTH fabrics Heavy fabric in
twill weave,
finished with
considerable
nap.
Heavy fabric in twill weave,
finished with considerable
nap. This once popular
fabric, for winterwear, has
now been replaced to a
great extent, by Mackinaw
cloth
BUGGY garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A lining from the
neck down
across the back
of an otherwise
unlined coat.
A lining from the neck down
across the back of an
otherwise unlined coat.
BUILDER a neutral or
mildly alkaline
ingredient that is
added to a
Term used to denote a
neutral or mildly alkaline
ingredient that is added to a
synthetic detergent or an all-
121
synthetic
detergent or an
all-purpose soap
purpose soap to soften the
wash water and to increase
the cleaning power.
BUILDER FABRIC fabrics A square-woven
heavy cotton
duck made from
very heavy ply
yarns.
A square-woven heavy
cotton duck made from very
heavy ply yarns. Used
formerly in the carcase of
rubber-tread tyres.
BULGE RATIO fibers, filaments,
yarns
See Swell ratio. See Swell ratio.
BULK DENSITY general Apparent mass
per unit volume
Apparent mass per unit
volume
BULK SAMPLE general In sampling of
bulk material
In sampling of bulk material:
(a) one or more portions
which are taken from the
material that does not
consist of separately
identifiable units or (b) one
or more portions which are
taken from the material
which can be identified after
sampling as separate or
composed units. (Compare
Discrete sample.)
BULK SHRINKAGE fibers, filaments,
yarns
A measure of
potential stretch
and power of
stretch yarns
A measure of potential
stretch and power of stretch
yarns or a measure of bulk
of textured-set yarns.
BULKED
CONTINUOUS
FILAMENT
fibers, filaments,
yarns
See BCF. See BCF.
BULKED YARN fibers, filaments,
yarns
A yarn that has
been treated
mechanically,
physically or
chemically so as
to have a
noticeably
greater
voluminosity or
bulk
A yarn that has been treated
mechanically, physically or
chemically so as to have a
noticeably greater
voluminosity or bulk; a yarn
that has been prepared in
such a way as to have a
greater covering power, or
apparent volume, than that
of a conventional yarn of
equal linear density and of
the same basic material with
normal twist. Some bulking
processes introduce into the
122
yarns the additional property
of stretch also.
1. IN STAPLE YARNS. The
increased bulk may be
obtained by the use of
bicomponent fibres and/or
by blending together, during
yarn spinning, fibres of high
and low potential shrinkage,
e.g. high-bulk acrylic yarns.
During subsequent hot
and/or wet processing, the
greater contraction of the
high-shrinkage fibres cause
the yarn to contract
longitudinally and the low-
shrinkage fibres to buckle
thus increasing the
bulkiness of the yarn.
2. IN CONTINUOUS
FILAMENT YARNS. The
increased bulk may be
obtained by one of the
texturing pro-cesses;
textured yarn is now the
preferred term for yarns of
this type. See Texturing and
Textured yarn.
See also Bulky yarn,
Crimped yarn, High-bulk
yarn, Loopy yarn, Non-
torque yarn, Stretch yarn,
Textured yarn, and Torque
yarn.
BULKY YARN fibers, filaments,
yarns
A generic name A generic name for (a) a
yarn formed from inherently
bulky fibres such as man-
made fibres that are hollow
along part or all of their
length, or (b) a yarn formed
from fibres that cannot be
closely packed because of
their cross-sectional shapes,
fibre alignment, stiffness,
resilience, or natural crimp.
See also Bulked yarn.
123
BULLION CORD accessories A highly twisted
assembly of
yarns w
A highly twisted assembly of
yarns which may be spirally
covered with continuous
filament yarns. Used in the
manufacture of Bullion
fringe.
BULLION FRINGE accessories A fringe, the weft
of which consists
of bullion cord or
twine
A fringe, the weft of which
consists of bullion cord or
twine which is inserted
double to form a loop, the
sides of which twist together
to form the tails which
become the skirt. See also
Fringe.
BULLION STITCH seams, stitches A decorative
stitch
A decorative stitch made by
twisting a needle around a
thread several times before
inserting it into the cloth.
Short bullion stitches are
sometimes called Knots.
BUMP SEAM defects A light coloured
width-wise
printing defect
A light coloured width-wise
printing defect caused by a
stitching in the back grey.
BUMP-GREY accessories, fabrics Also called
Bumps
Also called Bumps. Fabric
intended to be used
specifically as Back-grey.
BUMPED TOP fibers, filaments,
yarns
A package made
by press-packing
layers of coiled
sliver
A package made by press-
packing layers of coiled
sliver, usually achieved by
vacuum packing.
BUMPING defects,processes,
operations
See Planking 1. In weaving, a condition in
which the beat-up is so
severe that the cloth tension
reduces to zero dur-ing part
of the beating action; the
condition produces high
warp tension peaks which
increases the end breakage
rate.
2. See Planking
BUMPS fabrics,accessories See Bump-grey. See Bump-grey.
BUNCH defects Yarn defect. Also
called Slug, Slub
Yarn defect. Also called
Slug, Slub. A defect
characterised by a yarn
124
segment not over 6 mm (
in.) in length that shows an
abrupt increase in diameter
caused by more fibres
matted in this particular
place.
BUNDLE fabrics,accessories A collection of
sufficient pieces
of cut fabric to
make up several
garments.
1. A collection of sufficient
pieces of cut fabric to make
up several garments. The
size of the bundle is limited
by weight and the number of
pieces required for each
garment.
2. A number of similar
garment parts temporarily
kept together for
convenience of handling.
See also Conventional
bundle system, Progressive
bundle system.
BUNDLE STITCH seams, stitches A series of
parallel stitches
A series of parallel stitches
laid on a fabric and tied
together at the centre.
BUNTING fabrics Soft open-weave
cotton or woollen
fabric used for
ceremonial flags
Soft open-weave cotton or
woollen fabric used for
ceremonial flags; it
resembles scrim. Used for
cheaper short-life flags.
Resembles cheesecloth in
texture. Usually dyed or
printed in plain bright col-
ours; colours may not be
fixed. Unsuitable for clothing
BURIED PILE YARN garments, made-
ups, assemblies
In coated pile
yarn floor
covering,
In coated pile yarn floor
covering, that portion of the
pile tuft elements which
remains after the tuft legs
have been removed by
shearing.
BURIN apparatus,
equipage, tools
Also known as
Graver.
Also known as Graver. A
cutting tool used by a hand
engraver to incise lines on a
copper cylinder or steel die
used in printing
BURL DYEING processes, A low 1. A low temperature
125
operations temperature
colouring
process
colouring process of cotton
warps in union fabrics in
which the wool is dyed, or,
2. A low temperature
colouring process of
cellulosic impurities in wool
fabrics.
BURL MARK defects Fabric defect,
usually major, in
woven fabrics.
Fabric defect, usually major,
in woven fabrics. When a
slub or extra piece of yarn is
woven into the fabric, it is
often removed by a burning
tool. The result will usually
leave an open place in the
fabric.
BURLAP fabrics Heavy cloth
made of jute or
allied yarns with
a coarse plain
weave.
Heavy cloth made of jute or
allied yarns with a coarse
plain weave. Name
originally meant a cleaning
cloth, which implies hard
wear. May shrink. Used for
carpet backing, and for
upholstery webbing. Also
used for heavy curtains after
dyeing or printing
BURLING processes,
operations
Removal by
clipping or
picking
Removal by clipping or
picking, the knots, burrs,
and surplus hanging and
loose threads from the
surface of a fabric
BURN-OUT PRINT processes,
operations
Process of
printing a
chemical on a
fabric,
Process of printing a
chemical on a fabric, so that
the printed parts of the
fabric burns out.
BURNING
BEHAVIOUR
processes,
operations
changes that
take place when
materials or
products are
exposed to a
specified ignition
source.
All the changes that take
place when materials or
products are exposed to a
specified ignition source.
BURNISHING processes,
operations
A polishing of a
fabric done by
rollers.
A polishing of a fabric done
by rollers.
BURNT-OUT FABRIC fabrics Also called Also called Devor fabric,
126
Devor fabric,
Devorant fabric,
Etched-out
fabric.
Devorant fabric, Etched-out
fabric. Specially woven,
patterned, plain colour cloth
to which acid is applied to
remove or burn out some of
the fibre. Mixed fibres are
only used for weaving so
that only certain parts of the
design are burnt out and
they become transparent
while the rest remains
opaque, creating very
attractive fabrics. The fibres
used vary but often are
polyester and cotton. The
fabrics are often sheer and
lightweight and are used for
blouses, dresses and
curtains.
BURR EXTRACTING processes,
operations
extracting burrs
or vegetable
seeds found in
wools.
A mechanical process (burr
crushers, beaters, etc.) or
chemical process (sulphuric
acid treatment) of extracting
burrs or vegetable seeds
found in wools.
BURRS defects Wool
contaminated
with vegetable
impurities
1. Minute seed particles of
cotton, carried through into
the finished goods.
2. Wool contaminated with
vegetable impurities
adhering to the fleece. Also
called Burry wool.
BURRY WOOL defects See under Burrs
2
See under Burrs 2
BURSTING defects In knitted fabric,
a hole caused by
fracture of a yarn
In knitted fabric, a hole
caused by fracture of a yarn
resulting from high tension
generated during knitting.
See also Cutting.
BURSTING
STRENGTH
general The force or
pressure
required to
rupture a textile
The force or pressure
required to rupture a textile
by distending it with a force,
applied at right angles to the
plane of the fabric, under
specified conditions
127
BUST apparatus,
equipage, tools,
A shaped form
(male or female)
on which clothes
are worked on
1. A shaped form (male or
female) on which clothes
are worked on, inspected or
displayed.
2. Garment-related term.
See under Garment sizing
system
BUST GIRTH garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Garment-related
term.
Garment-related term. See
under Garment sizing
system.
BUST POINT TO
BUST POINT
garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Garment-related
term
Garment-related term. See
under Garment sizing
system
BUSY PRINT fabrics A print design
covering a
medium or large
part of the fabric.
A print design covering a
medium or large part of the
fabric. It has many lines, no
large areas of a single
colour, no geometric
pattern.
BUTCHER LINEN fabrics See under
Butcher rayon.
See under Butcher rayon.
BUTCHER RAYON fabrics Used for overalls
and protective
coats because it
wears well,
sheds dirt easily
in wear and
washes well
It used to be called butcher
linen; but it no longer
contains linen yarns. Now it
is not permissible to use the
word rayon, so presumably
butcher viscose, although
butcher cloth is probably
more acceptable. Term
butcher linen had been used
to describe cotton cloth too,
but this is no longer
permissible. Whatever the
fibre, the cloth is plain
weave, stiff and heavy.
Used for overalls and
protective coats because it
wears well, sheds dirt easily
in wear and washes well
BUTT SEAM seams, stitches A seam, which is
sewn with the
two fabric edges
abutting.
A seam, which is sewn with
the two fabric edges
abutting.
or to the courses of circular
knit fabric
BUTTER MUSLIN fabrics Cheap, open Cheap, open weave cotton
128
weave cotton
cloth, very soft.
cloth, very soft. Used in the
production of dairy products,
for straining jelly etc., but is
also the perfect cloth with
which to iron press.
BUTTON accessories A knob, disc or
similar object
which when
forced through a
narrow opening
or buttonhole,
fastens one part
of a garment or
other flexible
substrate to
another.
A knob, disc or similar
object which when forced
through a narrow opening or
buttonhole, fastens one part
of a garment or other
flexible substrate to another.
Buttons may be attached a
garment also as a means of
ornamentatioin. In buttons,
that portion which will be
exposed, after attaching to
the substrate, is called
face. There are basically
two types of buttons:
Sew-through flange button:
These buttons have two or
more holes in its flange for
passage of a nee-dle and
thread so that the button
can be attached to a
garment or other flexible
substrate. Usually the main
performance characteristic
which is tested on plastic
sew-through buttons is its
impact resistance, i.e. the
resistance to fracture under
the sudden application of an
external force
BUTTON BREAKER apparatus,
equipage, tools
See Breaking
machine
See Breaking machine
BUTTON
PERFORMANCE
CHARACTERISTICS
accessories the main
performance
characteristics
The performance
specification requirements
for buttons are usually
guided by the internationally
approved standard
performance specifications.
Generally, the main
performance characteristics
which are tested on buttons
129
are:
Resistance to washing
liquor
Resistance to drycleaning
solvents
Resistance to ironing
Resistance to water
Resistance to chlorine water
Resistance to sea water
Impact test
BUTTON STAND garments, made-
ups, assemblies
The distance
from the finished
edge of the
garment to the
centre of the
button
The distance from the
finished edge of the garment
to the centre of the button
BUTTONHOLE garments, made-
ups, assemblies
The hole through
which a button is
passed
The hole through which a
button is passed to hold the
garment in the correct
position.
BUTTONHOLE
STAND
garments, made-
ups, assemblies
The distance
from the finished
edge of the
garment to the
eye of the
buttonhole.
The distance from the
finished edge of the garment
to the eye of the buttonhole.
BUTTONING defects Fabric defect Fabric defect. Also called
Beading. Balls of fibre
formed on warp yarns,
during weaving.

C

Word Category Short description Description
C. I. GENERIC NAME See Colour Index
generic name.
See Colour Index generic name.
C.I. CONSTITUTION
NUMBER
See Colour Index
constitution number.
See Colour Index constitution number.
C.I.GENERIC NAME C.I. generic name is a
classification name,
which when allocated
to a commercial
preparation allows that
preparation to be
The allocation of Colur Index generic names
to commercial colorants is done by the
Colour Index Editorial Board. C.I. generic
name is a classification name, which when
allocated to a commercial preparation allows
that preparation to be uniquely identified
130
Word Category Short description Description
uniquely identified
within any Colour Index
Application class
within any Colour Index Application class.
This enables the particular commercial
preparation to be classified along with other
preparation, whose essential colorant results
form a single chemical reaction, or a series of
reactions. Products obtained by physical
admixture of essential colorants are
excluded. The publishers of Colour Index
International cautions the users that a listing
therein of a commercial preparation is no
guarantee of its acceptability for
manufacturer or use in those countries
having such legislation.
The dyestuffs are first classified according to
usage. Further they are subdivided
depending on the hue (colour) of the dye.
Thus, dyestuffs are grouped as acid, basic,
direct, disperse, vat dyes, etc., and in each
group they are subdivided as yellow, orange,
red, violet, blue, green, brown and black.
Dyestuffs of each colour from each usage
class are given consecutive numbers.
When different dyestuff manufacturers
produce a dyestuff of a particular colour in a
given usage class and having the same
known structure (hence a C.I. Constitution
Number is assigned to the dyestuff), all these
commercial dyes are given the same generic
name. On the other hand, if, a num-ber of
dyes of the same hue and tone (after dyeing
on fibres) but the structure is not known in
pub-lished literature, these are allocated five
different C.I. generic names. These five
different names are given to the five dyes of
the respective manufacturers, even if the dye
structure is the same. As long as the
structure is not disclosed in the published
literature, the dyestuffs have different C.I.
generic names. When a research publication
from a research organisation or from a
university determines the structure of a series
of commercial dyestuffs, by analytical and
synthetic routes, and the results appear in a
reputed journal, these are taken note of and
they are assigned C.I. Constitution numbers
depending on the chromophores present in
them. This information is periodically
published as Sup-plements to Colour Index
International and at an appropriate time
131
Word Category Short description Description
incorporated in the revised edi-tion of Colour
Index International.
Colorants listed under a C.I. generic name
whose serial number contains a colon differ
slightly from those listed under the parent CI
generic name. This slight difference is usually
chemical, but may be physical in the case of
certain pigments. See also Colour Index
International and C.I. constitution number.
CABANA CLOTH fabrics Brightly coloured fabric Brightly coloured fabric used for beach and
resort wear
CABINET DRY processes,
operations
A method of drying or
deodorizing.
A method of drying or deodorizing. Hot air is
circulated around the immovable object being
dried. Temperatures range upto 160F
(71.2C). Drying time may be long.
CABLE CORD accessories A cord consisting of
three case cords that
have been over-twisted
and are then twisted
together in the reverse
direction.
A cord consisting of three case cords that
have been over-twisted and are then twisted
together in the reverse direction. The smaller
sizes are often referred to as lacing cords
and the larger sizes, traditionally over 6 mm
in diameter, as French crpe cord
CABLE KNIT seams,
stitches
Also called Cable
stitch. A stitch in
knitting
Also called Cable stitch. A stitch in knitting
that produces the appearance of a heavy
cord in a raised rope stripe; often found in
sweaters and sports hosiery.
CABLE LAID ROPE accessories See under Rope. See under Rope.
CABLE STITCH seams,
stitches
See Cable knit See Cable knit
CABLE TWIST fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The construction of
cabled yarn, cord, or
rope
The construction of cabled yarn, cord, or rope
in which each successive twist is in the
opposite direction to the preceding twist; an
S/Z/S or Z/S/Z construction.
CABLED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn formed, by
twisting together two or
more plied yarns.
A yarn formed, by twisting together two or
more plied yarns.
CAD general Acronym for Computer
aided design.
Acronym for Computer aided design. Term
used to describe the stages whereby a
computer is employed to assist in the
designing of a product.
CAKE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A package of
continuous filament
yarn
A package of continuous filament yarn
produced during the box spinning of viscose
CALCIUM
HYPOCHLORITE
See under Chemic See under Chemic
CALENDER apparatus,
equipage,
A machine used in
calendering process.
A machine used in calendering process. See
Calendering
132
Word Category Short description Description
tools
CALENDER BONDED fabrics Thermally-bonded
nonwoven fabric, in
which calender rollers
are used to apply heat
and pressure to a fibre
web or batt
Thermally-bonded nonwoven fabric, in which
calender rollers are used to apply heat and
pressure to a fibre web or batt, thus causing
bonding by the softening or melting of the
heat-sensitive material. Embossed calender
rollers are in common use for Point bonding
CALENDERING processes,
operations
A process by which the
fabric is made compact,
flat and glazed
A process by which the fabric is made
compact, flat and glazed. Usually the fabric
surface is not flat, particularly in ordinary
quality plain weave fabrics, because of the
round shape of the yarns and interlacings of
warp and weft at right angles to each other.
In such a fabric it is seen that whilst the fabric
may be quite regular, it is not flat.
In calendering, the fabric is passed between
the rollers of a calender machine, in which
heavy rollers rotate in contact under
pressure. The yarns are squashed into a
flattened elliptical shape; the intersections are
made to close-up between the yarns. The
fabric surface becomes flat and compact. The
improved planeness of surface in turn
improves the glaze of the fabric. The
calender machines can have several rollers,
some of which can be heated and varied in
speed, so that in addition to pressure a
polishing action can be exerted to increase
lustre.
CALF GIRTH garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See under Garment
sizing system.
CALF LEATHER fabrics Very soft, pliable
leather of top quality.
Very soft, pliable leather of top quality. Used
as the basis of good patent leather because it
takes a high polish. Used for gloves and
shoes
CALIBRATION OF YARN processes,
operations
The measurement of
the diameter of yarn
The measurement of the diameter of yarn
CALICO fabrics Generic term for cheap
plain cotton fabric
heavier than muslin,
often printed
Generic term for cheap plain cotton fabric
heavier than muslin, often printed. Fairly
closely woven but varying in fineness and
weight depending on quality. One of the
oldest basic cotton fabrics, it is named after
Calicut in India where it was first produced. In
the same grouping as percale, but coarser
and poorer quality.
CAM general Short for Computer Short for Computer aided manufacture.
133
Word Category Short description Description
aided manufacture. Term used to describe processes of making a
product where the production machine is
controlled by a computer.
CAM LOCK SLIDER accessories In zippers, a slider that
incorporates a curled
projection or
projections
In zippers, a slider that incorporates a curled
projection or projections on the pull that
extends through a window or windows to
effect a locking action by pressing against the
interlocking elements when the cam lock
slider is in the locked position
CAMBR fabrics A term for lightweight,
sheer, open weave
linen fabric.
A term for lightweight, sheer, open weave
linen fabric.
CAMBRIAN TWEED fabrics Rough woollen fabric
made in the uplands of
Mid-Wales from the
local hardy sheep.
Rough woollen fabric made in the uplands of
Mid-Wales from the local hardy sheep. Plain
weave, hopsack, or herringbone weaves are
the most usual and the yarns are either dyed
with synthetic dyes for better fastness or,
more attractively, left in their natural colours
of white, grey and black (al-though the sheep
in the field look brown), and mixed together.
Used for hardwearing clothes such as mens
suits, sports jackets, Norfolk skirts and
jackets. The coarser yarn is made into rugs.
CAMBRIC fabrics A closely woven, fine,
firm, plain weave fabric,
heavier than lawn,
finished with size to
give a slight shine on
the right side.
A closely woven, fine, firm, plain weave
fabric, heavier than lawn, finished with size to
give a slight shine on the right side. Mainly in
plain colours. Usually cotton but can also be
made in linen. The yarns are not set closely
together and the finish is soft and smooth.
Used for dresses, baby clothes, childrens
clothes, nightwear, blouses, and
handkerchiefs.
CAMEL CLOTH fabrics Term now used to
describe any camel-
coloured coating fabric
with a soft feel and
slight pile.
Term now used to describe any camel-
coloured coating fabric with a soft feel and
slight pile. May be wool, wool and acrylic, or
other mixtures. They are cheap imitations of
real camel hair, but some are very good
quality and expensive too. Sometimes made
as a reversible cloth with cream colour on the
other side. Fabric used for coatings, scarves,
and rugs. See also Camel hair.
CAMEL HAIR fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The fibre comes from
the Bactrian (two-
humped) camel.
The fibre comes from the Bactrian (two-
humped) camel. These are two-coat animals
and shed lumps of hair all the year round.
The fine undercoat hairs vary in length from
25 - 125 mm and they are very soft like wool
and gives warmth without weight. The outer
beard hairs are up to 375 mm and they are
134
Word Category Short description Description
very coarse and tough.
The fine hairs have its characteristic colours
reddish fawn, light tan, to dark brown, and
there is no clear division between them and
the outer coat hairs because the coat
contains intermediate hairs so that separation
is difficult and the qualities of camel hair vary
considerably in softness because of this.
Used mainly for high quality overcoats,
scarves and travelling rugs. The fine soft
qualities are very expensive. Often mixed
with sheeps wool to reduce cost.
CAMELEON fabrics A French term for
changeable colour in
fabric
A French term for changeable colour in
fabric. Produced by shooting three picks of
different colour through each shed in
weaving.
CAMELOT fabrics An imitation camlet
fabric
An imitation camlet fabric produced in cotton
and wool.
CAMERA fabrics A French term for
coarse, loosely woven
linen fabric
A French term for coarse, loosely woven
linen fabric which is either unbleached or
dyed yellow.
CAMLET fabrics A fine, lustrous plain-
weave fabric made of
silk, hair, or wool fibres
A fine, lustrous plain-weave fabric made of
silk, hair, or wool fibres and in a variety of
qualities for suitings and furnishings.
CAMPBELL TWILL fabrics Also called Mayo twill. Also called Mayo twill. A weave used
extensively in the finer woollen and worsted
trade.
CAMPING TENTAGE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Any portable temporary
shelter or structure
designed to protect
persons from the
elements
Any portable temporary shelter or structure
designed to protect persons from the
elements, all or a portion of the covering of
which is made of fabric or other pliable
materials.
CANDLEWICK fabrics Thick tufted pile fabric
imitating an early
handicraft when the
wicks of candles really
were used for
decoration.
Thick tufted pile fabric imitating an early
handicraft when the wicks of candles really
were used for decoration. The extra yarns,
which are usually of 100 % cotton, coarse,
folded yarns having outstanding capillary
properties, are added to a loosely woven
fabric of muslin construction and the thicker
yarn is threaded through the backing in
straight lines or patterns, leaving spaces
between. The loops are then cut leaving thick
tufts firmly wedged in the backing. A warm,
cuddly, absorbent fabric, usually with cotton
backing and tufting, though viscose may be
added. Does not crease but robes can lose
shape. Used for bedspreads, dressing
135
Word Category Short description Description
gowns, and bathrobes
CANDY STRIPES fabrics Bands or stripes of
colour woven-in or
printed on fabrics.
Bands or stripes of colour woven-in or printed
on fabrics. Colours simulate those of
peppermint candy.
CANNAGE defects Local differences in
light reflection caused
by variations in
curvature of warp
crimp.
Local differences in light reflection caused by
variations in curvature of warp crimp. This
occurs in plain weave fabrics made with a
continuous filament warp and may arise if the
warp is too stiffly sized or if the warp tension
during weaving is too low.
CANNELLE REPP fabrics A silk repp fabric made
with two warps.
A silk repp fabric made with two warps. A
single warp forms the ground weave while a
two-fold yarn floats over eight picks to create
a rib effect
CANNETILLE fabrics A warp-rib cotton fabric
used for drapes and
furnishings. It is woven
with alternate ends
under very low and
very high tensions.
A warp-rib cotton fabric used for drapes and
furnishings. It is woven with alternate ends
under very low and very high tensions.
CANTALA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A fibre obtained from
the leaf of the cantala
plant agave cantala.
A fibre obtained from the leaf of the cantala
plant agave cantala.
CANTON CRPE fabrics Crpe fabric in which
weft yarns produce a
pebbly surface.
Crpe fabric in which weft yarns produce a
pebbly surface. Originally a silk from Canton,
but now often viscose or polyester. It is
durable, due to the high twist yarn, and
washes easily. Often in white or may be
piece-dyed. Used for blouses, dresses
CANTON FLANNEL fabrics Medium to heavy
cotton cloth in twill
weave with a soft weft
yarn and a soft flannel-
type nap on one or
both sides
Medium to heavy cotton cloth in twill weave
with a soft weft yarn and a soft flannel-type
nap on one or both sides. Soft and
absorbent; may be used unbleached or dyed.
Washes well; very inflammable. Used for
lining gardening gloves, driving gloves and
some baby clothes; sometimes used as a
warm lining for other clothes.
CANVAS fabrics Plain fabric woven from
ply yarn which is similar
to duck cloth.
Plain fabric woven from ply yarn which is
similar to duck cloth. Rugged, heavy, stiff
fabric, made of unbleached coarse cotton or
linen yarn, often woven in stripes. Used for
shoes, sails, awnings, rucksacks, tents, etc.
Can also be open-weave, in various weights,
and in this form it is used for embroidery.
CANVAS
INTERFACINGS
fabrics Made in various fibres
and weights, this is
generally heavier than
Made in various fibres and weights, this is
generally heavier than other types of
interfacing. May be sew-in or iron-in types. Is
136
Word Category Short description Description
other types of
interfacing.
durable and very malleable under a hot iron
with moisture. Most types can be easily
shaped to the body and give excellent
structure to a tailored garment. Used in coats
and jackets. See Sew-in woven interfacings
and Iron-on canvas interfacings.
CANVAS MAKING processes,
operations
The sewing together of
all the pieces, which
form the interlining of a
jacket or coa
The sewing together of all the pieces, which
form the interlining of a jacket or coat either
by hand or machine
CAP SPINNING processes,
operations
A spinning system in
which the spindle
supports a stationary
cap
A spinning system in which the spindle
supports a stationary cap, the lower edge of
which guides the yarn onto the revolving
spinning package, which is traversed.
CAPE LEATHER fabrics Originally this type of
leather came from
sheep found around
Cape of Good Hope,
but now comes mainly
from the Russian
States.
Originally this type of leather came from
sheep found around Cape of Good Hope, but
now comes mainly from the Russian States.
Firm and hardwearing, and is usually given a
glac or shiny finish. Used mainly for gloves.
CAPE WOOLS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
General name for wool
obtained from areas in
and around South
Africa.
General name for wool obtained from areas
in and around South Africa. High quality
fleece having excellent working properties
during manipulation. Used in heavier woollen
materials.
CAPROLACTAM general A polymer which is the
source of some
polyamide fibres.
A polymer which is the source of some
polyamide fibres.
CARACUL CLOTH fabrics Also called Karakul
cloth.
Also called Karakul cloth. Heavy woollen
fabric, woven to resemble fabrics made from
Persian lambs wool. Used for womens and
childrens coats, capes, muffs, etc.
CARBINE NEEDLE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See under Needle See under Needle
CARBON FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured fibre
containing at least 90
% of carbon obtained
by controlled pyrolysis
of appropriate fibres.
A manufactured fibre containing at least 90 %
of carbon obtained by controlled pyrolysis of
appropriate fibres. . They are made by
heating precursor filaments, usually of rayon
or acrylic to appropriate temperatures that
convert the substance to primary pure
carbon. Carbon fibres are black, smooth-
surfaced, not flammable, of high strength,
and very good stiffness-to-weight ratio.
Special grades of carbon fibre are used for
protective clothing fabrics.
137
Word Category Short description Description
CARBON-ARC LAMP apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Fade-o-Meter. See Fade-o-Meter.
CARBONISED &
NEUTRALISED WOOL
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A term descriptive of
scoured wool
processed to destroy
cellulosic impurities
A term descriptive of scoured wool processed
to destroy cellulosic impurities by treating
with a mineral acid or an acid salt, drying and
baking, crushing, and dusting out the
embrittled cellulosic matter followed by
neutralisation of the acidified wool.
CARBONISING processes,
operations
A chemical process by
which cellulosic matter
is removed from a
mixture with animal
fibres
A chemical process by which cellulosic
matter is removed from a mixture with animal
fibres. The cellulose is degraded by treatment
with acid, and made into an easily friable
condition and then removed.
CARBOXYMETHYLATED
COTTON
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Chemical treatments of
cotton fibre, yarn or
fabric
Chemical treatments of cotton fibre, yarn or
fabric first with monochloroacetic acid, and
second with strong sodium hydroxide solution
to provide a stiff and crease-resistant effect
and to increase absorbency
CARD CLOTHING apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Material comprising a
base structure and
wires, pins, or spikes
protruding from one
face
Material comprising a base structure and
wires, pins, or spikes protruding from one
face. Used on carding machines
CARD CUTTING processes,
operations
The process of
punching holes in
jacquard or dobby
cards
The process of punching holes in jacquard or
dobby cards according to specified designs.
CARD SLIVER fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A rope-like strand of
fibres
A rope-like strand of fibres about 3/4 inch to 1
inch (1.9 to 2.5 cm) in diameter; the form in
which fibres emerge from the carding
machine
CARD WASTE general Short fluffy waste
thrown out of the
carding machine
Short fluffy waste thrown out of the carding
machine
CARD WEB fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Web See under Web
CARDED SILK fabrics A waste silk, usually
obtained from imperfect
cocoons
A waste silk, usually obtained from imperfect
cocoons, which is carded. Used in the
manufacture of spun silk yarn.
CARDED WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Scoured wool which
has been processed
through a carding
machine
Scoured wool which has been processed
through a carding machine
CARDED YARN fibers,
filaments,
Yarn made from fibres
that have been carded
Yarn made from fibres that have been carded
but not combed in the manufacturing
138
Word Category Short description Description
yarns but not combed process.
CARDING processes,
operations
The process of
untangling and partially
straightening fibres
The process of untangling and partially
straightening fibres, by passing them
between two closely spaced surfaces moving
at different speeds, at least one of which is
clothed with sharp points, thus converting a
tangled mass into a filmy web.
CARE INSTRUCTIONS garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A series of directions
describing which care
practices should
refurbish a product
without adverse effects
A series of directions describing which care
practices should refurbish a product without
adverse effects and warnings for those care
practices expected to have a harmful effect.
CARE LABEL,
PERMANENT
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A care label that
remains legible
A care label that remains legible and
attached to a textile product throughout its
useful life.
CARE LABELLING
SYMBOLS
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A system of graphic
symbols, intended for
use in the permanent
marking of textile
articles, providing
information essential
for their proper care
A system of graphic symbols, intended for
use in the permanent marking of textile
articles, providing information essential for
their proper care.
Basic Symbols:
WASHING PROCESS: a washtub
CHLORINE-BASED BLEACHING
PROCESS:a triangle
IRONING PROCESS:A hand iron shape
DRY-CLEANING PROCESS:A circle
TUMBLE DRYING: Tumble drying in a
tumbler after a washing process:A square
with a circle inscribed
Additional Symbols:
TREATMENT NOT PERMITTED:A St.
Andrews cross, superimposed on any of the
basic symbol, means that the treatment
represented by that symbol shall not be used
MILD TREATMENT:A bar, under the washtub
or circle means that the treatment should be
milder than that indicated by the same
symbol without a bar.
VERY MILD TREATMENT:A broken bar,
under the washtub describes a very mild
washing process at 40 C.
WASHING: The washtub symbolises the
domestic washing treatment (by hand or
machine). It is used to convey information
regarding the maximum washing temperature
and the maximum washing process severity
CARE LABELS garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A label that gives
directions for
refurbishing a product
A label that gives directions for refurbishing a
product
139
Word Category Short description Description
CARE PROCEDURE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A process by which
products or specimens
may be treated for soil
removal
A process by which products or specimens
may be treated for soil removal and aesthetic
improvement.
CAREER APPAREL garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garments, the styling
and performance of
which are designed for
various end uses
Garments, the styling and performance of
which are designed for various end uses so
as to be suitable for on-the-job wear in a
variety of businesses and professions. See
also Dress career apparel, Vocational career
apparel
CARLONIZED processes,
operations
A process of
impregnating yarns with
a protective shield that
becomes an integral
part of the fabric.
A process of impregnating yarns with a
protective shield that becomes an integral
part of the fabric. This process makes the
fabric washable, waterproof, stain resistant,
abrasion resistant, and anti-static. The
treated fabrics are used for wall coverings,
office furnishings, etc.
CAROA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Craua,
Croa, Coroa
Also called Craua, Croa, Coroa. A fibre from
the leaf of the plant neoglazovia variegata
CARPET garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A floor covering A floor covering having a textile use-surface
formed from yarns or fibres projecting from a
backing.
CARPET PILE BRUSH apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A hand operated brush A hand operated brush having long, semi-
rigid bristles intended specifically for erecting
the pile of small areas of carpet
CARPET SQUARE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A carpet rectangular
form,
A carpet rectangular form, with or without a
border, at least 1.83 m at the shortest
dimension and normally loosely laid.
CARPET TILE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A textile floor covering A textile floor covering of predetermined
shape, with backcoating of bitumen, glass
fibre, or PVC. It is used in a modular mode.
CARPET WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Wool See under Wool
CARRIAGE LACE fabrics Also called Coach lace Also called Coach lace. A woven narrow
fabric on the face of which is an uncut pile
design; generally incorporating one weft, but
two or three wefts are sometimes used for
further ornamental effects. Used for
embellishment of the upholstery of carriages
and other vehicles.
CARRICKMACROSS fabrics Old Irish traditional type
of lace
Old Irish traditional type of lace made with
heavy yarns in an almost crochet type of
work, characterised by many loops.
CARRIER A plasticising agent A plasticising agent that aids the penetration
of the dye onto or into non-water-absorbing
140
Word Category Short description Description
man-made fibres
CARRIER YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn that is used to
support another yarn
A yarn that is used to support another yarn in
weaving, knitting, and sometimes lace
making, and is then dissolved out of the
product in finishing
CARROTI The active reagent
used for carroting
The active reagent used for carroting
CARROTING processes,
operations
The modification of the
tips of rabbit-fur fibre
The modification of the tips of rabbit-fur fibre
by chemical treatment to improve their felting
capacity.
CARVED PILE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under Pile, in
carpet
See under Pile, in carpet
CASABLANCAS processes,
operations
The first long draft
spinning system
The first long draft spinning system, which
employs two aprons for guiding the roving
sliver through the process of drafting and
attenuation
CASE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A container holding a
number of textile
packages
A container holding a number of textile
packages; a shipping unit, usually carton,
box, bale, or other.
CASE CORD fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A soft and pliable cord A soft and pliable cord consisting of two or
more components twisted together, each
component being made of a core which is
helically covered at an acute angle by
multiple ends of continuous filament yarns.
CASEIN FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Casein is obtained by
the acid treatment of
skimmed milk
Casein is obtained by the acid treatment of
skimmed milk; casein fibres can be made
from this. The filaments have a natural white
colour and are smooth-surfaced, with faint
striations. Casein and wool blends are used
for hand- and machine-knitting yarns, the
whiteness of casein lending itself to the
production of pastel shades.
CASEMENT CLOTH fabrics This fabric is for
casements or curtains.
This fabric is for casements or curtains.
Usually cotton, it is plain-weave fabric in
white or cream, with the weft often
predominating on the surface. Soft and
drapes well. The term is now generally used
to cover a wide variety of simple weave plain
curtaining, made from practically any fibre
and in any colour, and in various weights. Not
particularly hardwearing so it is not used for
other furnishings.
CASHA fabrics Woven from wool with
some Cashmere goats
wool.
Woven from wool with some Cashmere
goats wool. Similar to flannel in appearance,
but the Cashmere adds softness. Used for
overcoats for adults and children.
141
Word Category Short description Description
CASHGORA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Hair from the downy
undercoat of the
cashgora (cross breed
of angora and
cashmere) goat.
Hair from the downy undercoat of the
cashgora (cross breed of angora and
cashmere) goat. Hair is fine and has low to
medium lustre
CASHMERE fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
The undercoat hair of
the cashmere goat
(capra hircus laniger) in
northern part of India
and other parts of Asia.
The undercoat hair of the cashmere goat
(capra hircus laniger) in northern part of India
and other parts of Asia. Cashmere is
beautifully soft, silky and lustrous with a
smooth slightly slippery luxurious handle and
it is used in high quality knitwear, dress-
goods, coatings and suitings. Fabrics of 100
% cashmere are really very expensive, so
that mixtures with wool are quite common.
The addition of wool detracts from the
softness according to amount, but improves
durability. The characteristic pale brown
colour of some types of cashmere has led to
imitation of cashmere, by dyeing soft botany
wool to this colour, but cannot be labeled as
such.
CASING garments,
made-ups,
assemblies,
general
See under Tyre textiles 1. In a garment, a fabric tunnel through which
elastic, cord, tape ribbon, etc., can be
threaded.
2. See under Tyre textiles
CASSIMER fabrics A closely woven 2/2
twill fabric
A closely woven 2/2 twill fabric with worsted
warp and woollen weft, and having a closely
cut, smooth face
CAST BLOCK apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Print-blocks made of
type metal
Print-blocks made of type metal. Many casts
of small repeats are made and riveted on to a
hardwood base to form a large block.
Sometimes called stereo block. See also
Stereo.
CASTING OFF processes,
operations
Creation of a sealed
edge to the last course
of a piece of knitting
Creation of a sealed edge to the last course
of a piece of knitting, by chaining a separate
thread through each of the loops of the last
course. This was normally regarded as a
hand technique, but now automatic casting
off has been achieved on many models of flat
knitting machines.
CASTING OUT processes,
operations
A term used in weaving A term used in weaving to indicate that some
healds of a jacquard machine, or some
healds on certain heald shafts, are not used.
CASTLE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A white, raw silk of
Chinese origin.
A white, raw silk of Chinese origin.
CAT EYE defects See under Pinhole See under Pinhole
142
Word Category Short description Description
CATALYST IN
DEFERRED CURE
A chemical added to
the padding solution
A chemical added to the padding solution that
helps to achieve cross-linking. See Deferred
cure.
CATCH garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
In garments, an
underlap of material
In garments, an underlap of material
providing a backing to an opening to take
buttons or a zip tape for fastening, e.g. fly-
catch, button-catch.
CATCH CORD accessories A heavy thread or wire
temporarily woven near
the selvedge of the
fabric.
A heavy thread or wire temporarily woven
near the selvedge of the fabric. It may catch
extra filling yarns, which should not weave in
the selvedge and later cut-off, or it sometimes
helps to form the selvedge, i.e. the picot
edge, loop
CATCH-STITCH seams,
stitches
A cross-stitch made
backwards
A cross-stitch made backwards; used if the
cloth is too bulky to be turned down twice.
CATENARY LENGTH general The difference between
the length of the
shortest and the
longest component of a
plied yarn
The difference between the length of the
shortest and the longest component of a plied
yarn or cabled cord after twisting
CATERPILLAR defects A term for a defect in
yarn caused by a break
in part of the yarn.
A term for a defect in yarn caused by a break
in part of the yarn. The broken part becomes
pushed back in working and curls around the
unbroken part in the shape of a caterpillar.
CATIONIC DYES The dyes those
dissociate in an
acidified, aqueous
solution
The dyes those dissociate in an acidified,
aqueous solution to give a positively charged
coloured ion. Usually used on acrylic and
some polyester fibres. See also Basic dyes
CAULIFLOWER RUCHE accessories See under Ruche. See under Ruche.
CAUSTIC SODA A term commonly used
for sodium hydroxide
A term commonly used for sodium hydroxide
CAUSTIC SODA CRPE processes,
operations
A crpe effect
produced by the
shrinking action of
caustic soda applied to
cotton goods
A crpe effect produced by the shrinking
action of caustic soda applied to cotton
goods. A resist may be applied first to the
parts, which are to be left untreated, or the
caustic soda may be printed directly on the
cloth. The treated areas shrink, causing the
untreated areas to pucker or crinkle. The
pattern is often in the form of stripes. It may
also be a design of dots, all-over effects, etc.
CAUSTICIZING processes,
operations
Brief treatment of
celllulosic fabrics with
caustic soda solution
Brief treatment of celllulosic fabrics with
caustic soda solution at room temperature
without tension to improve the colour yield in
printing and dyeing, particularly with reactive
dyes.
CAV general See Critical application
value
See Critical application value
143
Word Category Short description Description
CAVALRY TWILL fabrics Rugged, very strong,
firmly woven, smooth
surfaced twill fabric
Rugged, very strong, firmly woven, smooth
surfaced twill fabric with a clean, steep,
prominent double twill effect produced by a
special twill weave and finely set warp.
Traditionally, a fine wool medium-weight
worsted fabric, or combination of worsted
warp and woollen weft for hardwearing
clothes such as riding breeches. Also used
for mens trousers, raincoats and other
clothing purposes. Now also made from
cotton or viscose for sportswear, because the
traditional form of this fabric is really
expensive; but whatever the fibre, the cloth is
tough and hardwearing.
A firm warp-faced fabric in which the weave
gives steep twill lines separated by
pronounced grooves formed by the weft.
CE general See Recoverable
elongation.
See Recoverable elongation.
CEIBA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Cotton
trees.
See under Cotton trees.
CELAFIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Cellulose acetate fibre
made in cut staple form
Cellulose acetate fibre made in cut staple
form. Used for blending with other fibres to
make medium-weight fabrics, blankets, etc.
When mixed with other fibres in woven
fabrics, it may have a reduced tendency to
creasing.
CELLOPHANE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A genetic term for
regenerated cellulose
film or sheets produced
by the viscose process
A genetic term for regenerated cellulose film
or sheets produced by the viscose process.
The film is thin, smooth, transparent, and
lustrous and may dyed in many colours. It is
flexible, insulative, odour proof, greaseproof
and moisture proof. It is used primarily in
packaging, but may be combined with textile
materials in the form of slit cellulose film.
CELLULAR FABRIC fabrics A fabric constructed so
as to have a close and
orderly distribution of
hollows or holes.
A fabric constructed so as to have a close
and orderly distribution of hollows or holes. In
woven fabric, this can be achieved by
honeycomb weave, leno weave, or perforated
weave.
CELLULASE See under Enzymes See under Enzymes
CELLULOSE The basic substance
which is contained in all
vegetable fibres and
certain man-made
fibres.
The basic substance which is contained in all
vegetable fibres and certain man-made
fibres. It is a carbohydrate and constitutes the
major part of all plant life. It is found in cotton,
linen, jute, hemp, all of bast, leaf, and stem
144
Word Category Short description Description
fibres and in viscose and cuprammonium
rayon. In the form of cellulose acetate it
comprises acetate fibre. In rayon it is found in
regenerated form.
CELLULOSE ACETATE fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
Man-made fibre
produced from a
chemical derivative of
cellulose; cellulose
acetate
1. YARN. Man-made fibre produced from a
chemical derivative of cellulose; cellulose
acetate. It is fundamentally different in its
chemical structure from the rayons and
natural fibres, except that both have cellulose
as common. It is thermoplastic, which
actually melts at 230 C, but may soften and
can be damaged even at slightly lower
temperatures. Relatively low moisture
absorption and dry rapidly. It is
acknowledged to be a better artificial silk than
viscose, at the same time being less ex-
pensive.
2. FABRIC. Fabric is similar in superficial
appearance to viscose fabric but it not quite
as strong, nor quite as resistant to abrasion.
It has more resilience and has a pleasing
more silk like handle. Needs no chemical
crease-resistance. Drapes beautifully. It is not
readily flammable; exposed to a naked flame
it melts and drips, as it burns Its chemical
properties differ from viscose in that it is
sensitive to certain solvents, notably acetone
which dissolves it very quickly. Dye affinity is
completely dif-ferent from that of viscose and
cotton; disperse dyes have to be used.
It is not suitable for clothing and other uses
which demand quick absorbency. However,
used for womens dresswear, socks, ties,
pyjamas, bathing suits, rainwear and
umbrellas. Does not conduct heat readily,
garments are cool in summer and warm in
winter.
CELLULOSE
DIACETATE
general Term is sometimes
used loosely to
describe acetone-
soluble cellulose
acetate.
Term is sometimes used loosely to describe
acetone-soluble cellulose acetate. (Strictly
speaking, it is an ester of cellulose and acetic
acid containing 48.8 % by mass of combined
acetic acid. This, however, is not a
commercial textile product).
CELLULOSE ETHERS A finish used on yarn
and fabric, as substitute
for starch
A finish used on yarn and fabric, as substitute
for starch. General name for methylcellulose,
carboxy methylcellulose and similar
compounds
CELLULOSE FIBRES fibers, Fibres composed of Fibres composed of cellulose either from
145
Word Category Short description Description
filaments,
yarns
cellulose natural sources or regenerated by man-made
operations, e.g. cotton, flax, rayon, jute.
CELLULOSE
TRIACETATE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
In most respects similar
to cellulose acetate
In most respects similar to cellulose acetate
but it has two important differences, which
justify its use. Firstly, although it is
thermoplastic it is more resistant to heat than
acetate, melting at approximately 300 C.
Secondly it can be subjected to heat-setting
like a synthetic fibre by sub-jecting it to a heat
of about 195 C. When it has been heat-set
its absorbency is very low and it exhibits drip-
dry properties like synthetic fibres. It is used
mainly for pleated fabrics.
CELTIC TWILL fabrics A term used sometimes
for twilled basket
weave
A term used sometimes for twilled basket
weave
CENTRE BACK WAIST
LENGTH
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See under Garment
sizing system
CENTRE FRONT WAIST
LENGTH
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See under Garment
sizing system
CENTRE GIMP fabrics Lace. A leavers-lace
construction in which
the filling threads,
called gimps, lie
between the front and
back warp threads
Lace. A leavers-lace construction in which
the filling threads, called gimps, lie between
the front and back warp threads. The ground
net is made by the interaction of two warp
threads with each bobbin thread. The objects
are filled by traversing gimp threads,
according to the requirements of the patttern.
Thick threads may be used for outlining the
objects
CENTRE LOOP defects See Kink-in. See Kink-in.
CENTRE SELVEDGE fabrics Double width cloth,
woven on single width
looms, with a split
selvedge in the centre
of the cloth
Double width cloth, woven on single width
looms, with a split selvedge in the centre of
the cloth. The split is obtained by leaving two
or more threads in the centre of the selvedge
and cutting the cloth where the threads are
missing
CENTRE SLOT
APPLICATION
accessories A method of zipper
application
A method of zipper application, in which the
zipper is concealed beneath two fabric flaps
and there are two visible rows of stitching on
the right side of the garment an equal
distance from the seamline on either side.
Centre slot applications are commonly used
for centre back openings in skirts and
dresses
CENTRE-CLOSED processes, See under Closed See under Closed shedding.
146
Word Category Short description Description
SHEDDING operations shedding.
CENTRE-STITCHING
DOUBLE CLOTH
fabrics See under Double cloth See under Double cloth
CENTRIFUGAL
HYDROEXTRACTION
processes,
operations
Removal of water by
centrifugal force from
wet textiles
Removal of water by centrifugal force from
wet textiles contained in a perforated rotor or
basket.
CENTRIFUGAL
SPINNING
processes,
operations
A method of spinning 1. A method of spinning in which the yarn
passes down a central guide tube and is then
collected by centrifugal force on the inner
surface of a rotating cylinder container. See
also Box spinning.
2. In man-made fibre production, a method of
fibre formation in which a molten or dissolved
poly-mer is thrown centrifugally in fibre form
from the edge of a rapidly rotating surface
CENTRING MARK defects See Clip mark. See Clip mark.
CERAMIC FIBRES fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Silica fibres See Silica fibres
CERIFIL processes,
operations
Trade name of a
spinning system
Trade name of a spinning system, in which
the yarn is wound onto the spinning tube via
a winder. The winder, which is rotated by the
yarn, replaces the ring and traveller, which
are used in ring spinning and confines the
yarn balloon.
CERVICALE TO BUST
POINT
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related term Garment-related term. See under Garment
sizing system
CERVICALE TO WRIST garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See under Garment
sizing system
CEYLON fabrics A coloured woven
fabric for blouses and
shirtings
A coloured woven fabric for blouses and
shirtings made from a cotton warp and
cotton-wool weft.
CEYLONETTE fabrics An imitation of Ceylon
fabric
An imitation of Ceylon fabric made entirely
from cotton
CHAFE MARK defects See Abrasion mark. See Abrasion mark.
CHAFER FABRIC fabrics See under Tyre textiles. See under Tyre textiles.
CHAFF defects A component of trash in
cotton
A component of trash in cotton in the form of
a heterogeneous assortment of vegetable
fragments, most of them being small pieces
of leaf, leaf bract and stalk.
CHAIN fabrics,
accessories
In zippers, the
assemblage formed by
interlocking several
elements of two
1. A very rarely used alternative name for the
warp.
2. In zippers, the assemblage formed by
interlocking several elements of two stringers.
147
Word Category Short description Description
stringers.
CHAIN DYEING processes,
operations
Yarn or fabric is tied
end-to-end, into an
endless rope form
Yarn or fabric is tied end-to-end, into an
endless rope form. The rope is put onto a reel
and passed through the dye bath in a
continuous manner
CHAIN FORK apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Lucet. See Lucet.
CHAIN SAMPLING general In acceptance
sampling, a sampling
plan
In acceptance sampling, a sampling plan for
which the decision to accept or reject a lot is
based in part on the results of inspection of
the lot and in part on the results of inspection
of the immediately preceding lots
CHAIN STITCH seams,
stitches
Stitches formed by
interlooping one or
more threads.
Stitches formed by interlooping one or more
threads. See Single thread chain stitch and
Two-thread chain stitch.
CHAIN THICKNESS accessories In zippers, the
measurement from
front to back of the
chain
In zippers, the measurement from front to
back of the chain
CHAIN TWILL fabrics An ordinary 3/3 twill. An ordinary 3/3 twill.
CHAIN TWIST fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn first made two-
ply, a third yarn is then
twisted around
A yarn first made two-ply, a third yarn is then
twisted around the two-ply yarn in a reverse
twist.
CHAIN WARP fabrics Warp threads in
floorcoverings
Warp threads in floorcoverings, usually
woven in pairs, alternating over and under
the shots, which are then bound enclosing
the stuffer yarns and the tuffs or loops
forming the pile.
CHAIN WARPING processes,
operations
See under Warping See under Warping
CHAIN WIDTH accessories In zippers, the
measurement between
the shoulders of the
interlocked elements
In zippers, the measurement between the
shoulders of the interlocked elements or
between the outermost edges of the bead if
the bead extends beyond the elements.
CHAIN-STRETCHING processes,
operations
A method, which is
used to prevent
shrinking of cloth
A method, which is used to prevent shrinking
of cloth in width and length after caustic
impregna-tion.
CHAINETTE accessories A tubular cord
produced on a circular
knitting machine
A tubular cord produced on a circular knitting
machine having no more than 20 needles
CHAINLESS
MERCERZING
processes,
operations
See under
Mercerization.
See under Mercerization.
CHAIR WEB accessories May also called
upholstery web.
May also called upholstery web. A woven
narrow fabric, for supporting the seat of
chairs, couches, etc. Made from yarns of jute,
148
Word Category Short description Description
flax, hemp, paper, and cotton. See also
Upholstery webbing.
CHALK FINISH processes,
operations
A finish applied to
lingerie silks and
rayons to produce
dullness and add
weight; not permanent.
A finish applied to lingerie silks and rayons to
produce dullness and add weight; not
permanent. The process, which involves
depositing dulling materials on the surface of
the fabric, not to be confused with dull rayon,
acetate and man-made fibres, made dull
CHALLIE fabrics See Challis. See Challis.
CHALLIS fabrics Also called Challie. Also called Challie. Soft, lightweight dress-
fabric in slightly open plain weave, generally
wool, using single worsted spun yarns in
warp and weft. Cotton challis has a slight nap
to achieve a soft finish. Gathers well and
takes unpressed pleats. May be plain or
printed; need lining in paler colours. It is also
used as a base for printing. Crushes in wear,
but sheds creases overnight.
CHAMBRAY fabrics Plain weave, durable,
lightweight cotton fabric
having a coloured warp
and white weft,
producing a motttled
look
Plain weave, durable, lightweight cotton
fabric having a coloured warp and white weft,
producing a motttled look. It is also made in
striped, checked, or figured patterns as well
as plain. The finer quality chambrays can
have a silk weft, whereas synthetic yarns or
cotton blends may be used in cheaper
fabrics. Used for childrens clothes, shirts,
sportwear and pyjamas
CHAMELEON fabrics A fabric with a variable
multicolour effect
A fabric with a variable multicolour effect
achieved by using warp yarns of one colour
and two weft yarns of two different colours in
each shed.
CHAMOIS fabrics Originally the skin of
the chamois, the small
mountain goat, but now
also from deer, sheep
and goats
Originally the skin of the chamois, the small
mountain goat, but now also from deer,
sheep and goats. The skins are dressed with
oil and given a suede finish on both sides.
Very soft and limp. Used for many types of
clothing.
CHANGE-IN FILLING defects See Mixed filling. See Mixed filling.
CHANGEABLE EFFECT fabrics Also called Changeant
Effect, Glac effect,
Iridescent effect, Shot
effect. An iridescent
effect in fabric.
Also called Changeant Effect, Glac effect,
Iridescent effect, Shot effect. An iridescent
effect in fabric. It may be achieved by
employing warp and weft yarns dyed different
colours. The effect may also be achieved in
piece-dyed fabrics by employing two different
natural fibres in warp and weft; two different
man-made fibres in warp and weft; a natural
and a man-made fibre yarn in warp and weft.
149
Word Category Short description Description
The various yarns, which have different
affinities for dyes, cause the finished cloth to
reflect different colours at different angles.
CHANGEANT EFFECT fabrics See Changeable effect See Changeable effect
CHANNEL garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A narrow passage
formed between plies
of fabric in a garment
A narrow passage formed between plies of
fabric in a garment or by attachment of an
additional ply of material, usually to house a
draw cord
CHANTILLY LACE fabrics Originally a silk bobbin
lace with a very fine
spidery ground.
Originally a silk bobbin lace with a very fine
spidery ground. Well-spaced isolated
decorative motifs are applied in a heavier
thread and outlined. It is now made by
machine in nylon, viscose and mercerised
cotton. Often used for bridal veils
CHARACTER fibers,
filaments,
yarns
One of the principal
factors in classing raw
cotton
One of the principal factors in classing raw
cotton. See Cotton classing.
CHARGED SYSTEM processes,
operations
A method of dry
cleaning
A method of dry cleaning in which an oil-
soluble reagent such as petroleum
sulphonate is added to the solvent so that a
significant amount of water can be added to
obtain a substantially clear dispersion of
water in the solvent. In a high charged
system the concentration of added reagent, a
so-called detergent, is 4%, while in a low
charged system the concentration ranges
from 3/4% to 2%.
CHARMANTE SATIN fabrics A double-wefted fabric A double-wefted fabric, the face being 1/2
twill and the back a weft sateen developed
from thick, low-twist weft.
CHARMELAINE fabrics A 1x2 twill dress fabric
made from botany wool
A 1x2 twill dress fabric made from botany
wool warp and weft that has a twill repp effect
by virtue of a high sett two-fold fine warp and
a low-sett thick hard-twisted weft
CHARMEUSE fabrics Silk, cotton or viscose
satin-weave fabric with
a dull back and semi-
lustrous right side
Silk, cotton or viscose satin-weave fabric with
a dull back and semi-lustrous right side; may
sometimes be a mixture of fibres. Not
hardwearing. Will crease. Used for lingerie,
nightwear, and soft evening dresses. Term
charmeuse-type is often used to describe
other soft silky fabrics.
CHARRING processes,
operations
The formation of
carbonaceous residue
as the result of
pyrolysis
The formation of carbonaceous residue as
the result of pyrolysis or incomplete
combustion.
CHARVET fabrics Soft fabric of silk or
acetate in a diagonal
Soft fabric of silk or acetate in a diagonal rib
weave, often with crosswise stripes of
150
Word Category Short description Description
rib weave, often with
crosswise stripes of
alternate dull and satin
finish
alternate dull and satin finish. Width usually
90 cm or less. Used for making ties; the
fabric is cut on the bias so that the tie knots
and drapes softly. A join is often necessary to
produce sufficient width.
CHASING processes,
operations
A finishing process
which imparts a thready
appearance and a hard
lustre to the surface of
the fabric, usually
cotton or linen.
A finishing process which imparts a thready
appearance and a hard lustre to the surface
of the fabric, usually cotton or linen. The
operation is performed on a calendar with five
or more rollers, and the cloth is passed
through one or more pairs of rollers through
which it has already passed, so that two
layers or more run through the machine at
the same time, face to face. The threads on
the surfaces of the fabric are pressed against
each other, and the tendency is to round,
rather than flatten the threads, and close the
larger spaces between them, giving the cloth
a firm a hand and even appearance. A
rounded yarn will not pack as well as an
elliptical one unless shrinkage is allowed. The
process is an imitation of a beetled finish.
CHATTER defects A printing defect A printing defect identified by light and dark
streaks running across the cloth.
CHECK SPIKES apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Free standing steel
spikes
Free standing steel spikes, 15-20 cm high,
which are placed at certain points on a lay,
usually the corners of check patterns, in order
to ensure that the checks match each other
when cut.
CHECK SPRING apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In sewing machine, a
spring with a loop at
one end, through which
the thread passes
In sewing machine, a spring with a loop at
one end, through which the thread passes. It
takes up the slack in the needle thread during
stitch forming and assists the take up in
setting the stitch.
CHECKERBOARD
WEAVE EFFECTS
fabrics Structural fabric
designs
Structural fabric designs created in braided
twill, high and low lustre satin, checked
broken twill, twill rib, fancy figured pointed
twill, double twill effect, etc.
CHECKS fabrics The simple form of
check fabric is with bold
stripe colourings in both
warp and weft
producing a rectangular
block pattern
The simple form of check fabric is with bold
stripe colourings in both warp and weft
producing a rectangular block pattern as the
colours combine with each other to produce
solid blocks of colours combined with blocks
of mixed colour, e.g. the very wide range of
tartan designs. Woven checks can also be
produced as a combination of weave and
colour. The traditional checks can be further
developed to obtain more variety by using
151
Word Category Short description Description
coloured twist yarns instead of solid colours,
by the use of different colour orders and
different weaves. Some of the more common
traditional checks are:
Houndstooth check: Also called Dogstooth
check. One of the most common examples of
woven check fabrics produced as a
combination of weave and colour.
It has a pattern of four dark, four light yarns in
both warp and weft on a 2/2 twill weave. The
combi-nation of interlacings and colour
produces the well-known shape of check.
Gunclub check: A variation of the
houndstooth check. In this two different dark
colours alternate in 4 and 4 order with a light
ground colour in both warp and weft.
The resultant check has a combination effect
as shown above, again using a 2/2 twill.
Shepherds check: In the check as shown
below the effect is obtained by increasing the
colour se-quence to five or more yarns (in the
diagram, six have been used) and a 2/2 twill
weave. This causes the hounds-tooth shape
to be lost and produces square blocks where
the colours intersect
The term is sometimes used also to describe
the ordinary dog-tooth check. The shepherd
check can be produced also on a plain
weave.
Guards check: When a 2 and 2 colours order
is used in warp and weft on 2/2 twill a vertical
line effect is produced. The guards check is
of this type shown below
Large windowpane panels of colour can
break this up, and by slightly changing the
relationship of the weave and the colour-
order, alternate vertical and horizontal line
effects can be produced in al-ternate panels.
Glen Urquhart check: It is a large
combination check produced by combining
alternate blocks of 2 and 2 colouring and 4
and 4 colouring in both warp and weft on 2/2
twill.
This produces panels of hounds-tooth check
and panels of guards check separated by
intermediate line effects. Large versions of
this check are sometimes known as Prince of
Wales, often with a fine contrasting over-
check in red or another completely different
152
Word Category Short description Description
colour.
Tattersal check: Tattersal checks feature in
shirtings and leisure wear fabrics
These are copy of horse blanket checks and
vary in size. They are usually made using two
bright colours alternately on a light ground as
shown
CHEESE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A cylindrical yarn
package
A cylindrical yarn package whose diameter is
usually larger than its length.
CHEESE WARPING processes,
operations
See under Warping See under Warping
CHEESECLOTH fabrics Sometimes called
Tobacco cloth. Soft and
loosely woven cotton
gauze fabric made from
fine yarn.
Sometimes called Tobacco cloth. Soft and
loosely woven cotton gauze fabric made from
fine yarn. The natural colour of this sheer
gauze is cream but it can be bleached or
dyed. Plain weave, sometimes heavily sized,
and has a rough finish and wrinkled look. Not
hardwearing but washes well.
Originally used for wrapping cheese and for
making polishing clothes, and sometimes as
a mount-ing or underlining fabric. When it
became a fashion fabric, the quality was
improved and the texture made slightly
closer. Fashion cheesecloth may contain
some polyester. Strictly speaking it does not
require pressing but this does improve its
appearance. Used for blouses, skirts,
nightwear, and mens shirts.
CHELATING AGENT Also called
Sequestering agent.
Also called Sequestering agent. A chemical
capable of deactivating metal ions by
formation of a water-soluble complex.
Chelating agents are used to reduce the
amount of foam present in a liquor.
CHEMIC Also called Chemick Also called Chemick. The chlorine bleaching
bath; Calcium hypochlorite or sodium
hypochlorite solution
CHEMICAL FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Fibre See under Fibre
CHEMICAL FINISH Chemical materials,
other than colorants,
and residual processing
chemicals added to
textiles
Chemical materials, other than colorants, and
residual processing chemicals added to
textiles to impart desired functional or
aesthetic properties to the textile product.
CHEMICAL FINISHING processes,
operations
The application of
chemicals, other than
The application of chemicals, other than
colorants, to textiles to impart desired
153
Word Category Short description Description
colorants, to textiles to
impart desired
functional and/or
aesthetic
characteristics
functional and/or aesthetic characteristics
which may or may not be durable in normal
use, e.g. water repellency, glaze, crease
resistance, mercerising, etc.
CHEMICAL STABILITY general Degree of resistance of
a textile material
Degree of resistance of a textile material to
chemicals such as acids, bases, solvents,
oils, oxidising agents; and to chemical
reactions such as those catalyzed by light.
CHEMICK See Chemic See Chemic
CHEMICKING processes,
operations
Bleaching of non-
protein fibre materials
Bleaching of non-protein fibre materials by
means of a dilute hypochlorite solution.
CHENILLE fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
A type of fancy yarn. 1. YARN. A type of fancy yarn. Name derived
from the French word for a caterpillar, which
is ex-actly what it resembles. The yarn is
made, with pile protruding all round, by
cutting a ladder-like fabric into strips, so that
the ends of the soft twisted yarns loosen and
form pile-like fringe.
Also a yarn resembling chenille is produced
by electrostatic flocking an axial yarn treated
with an adhesive.
2. FABRIC. The fringed chenille yarns are
woven in a gauze weave to make a fabric
with pile on one or both sides. Fibres used
may be silk, viscose, cotton, wool, or
mixtures. Chenille fabric is made for
furnishings, curtains, chair covers, cushion
covers. For dresses and coats, specially
finished chenille are also made. Very
expensive. Does not crease. Chenille yarns
are made for knitting also.
CHENILLE BEDSPREAD fabrics A tufted bedspread A tufted bedspread made of tufts of soft
cotton yarns sewn into a muslin sheeting,
spaced close to-gether in continuous lines
and clipped on the face of the bedspread.
The tufted lines give the effect of chenille
yarn, although actually no chenille yarn is
used.
CHEST GIRTH garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See under Garment
sizing system
CHEST PIECE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
An additional layer or
layers of interlinings in
the chest area of a
garment
An additional layer or layers of interlinings in
the chest area of a garment, for strength and
shape retention
CHESTING processes, A finishing process A finishing process applied on cotton fabrics
154
Word Category Short description Description
operations applied on cotton
fabrics
to produce a thready and lustrous effect.
CHEVILLIER processes,
operations
A finishing process A finishing process, which imparts softness
and lustre to dyed silk yarns by twisting and
winding under pressure
CHEVIOT TWEED fabrics It takes its name from
the Cheviot sheep of
Scotland.
It takes its name from the Cheviot sheep of
Scotland. These sheep produce a strong
hardwearing wool of which the best qualities
have a fairly soft handle. A wide range of
fabric, used for hardwearing suits, sporting
clothes, and golfing skirts, are made in a
variety of stripe, check and mixture styles.
The suitings have a fairly fine and clean
appearance on the surface in the best
qualities. The fabric shows the weave on the
surface or they can be densely fibrous and
milled to a firm compactness. This type of
tweed is variable in appearance and the only
constant feature is the wool quality character.
CHIFFON fabrics A light, soft, filmy,
sheer, open-mesh silk
fabric
A light, soft, filmy, sheer, open-mesh silk
fabric made in plain weave with very fine
yarns.
Made from silk of the finest lightly twisted
yarn, woven in gum condition, then
degummed after weaving. Chiffon is also
made in man-made fibres; usually
monofilament yarns of nylon, polyester and
viscose. Sometimes made in cotton too.
Although thin and sheer, it is fairly strong, but
it may give at the seams. Used for loose
fitting garments, such as blouses, nightwear
and as an evening overdress on top of a
dress of satin, taffeta, etc. Not very
expensive. Silk chiffon is the softest, poly-
ester chiffon slightly firmer and less
transparent. Chiffon may have a satin stripe
or spots as decora-tion.
Very light weight fabrics weighing 15 gm or
even less per square metre are made of this
type with beautiful handle and draping
properties. Because of the looseness of
structure, yarns slide very eas-ily and hence,
it is a difficult fabric to make up. Hard twist
silk yarns can be used to make crpe
chiffon, with a characteristic crinkled surface
appearance. The term chiffon is also used as
a prefix to other fabric names to indicate very
lightweight versions of these fabrics, e.g.
155
Word Category Short description Description
chiffon velvet, chif-fon taffeta, etc.
CHIFFON TWIST fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A mill term for hard
twisted single silk or
rayon yarns with 50 or
more turns per inch
A mill term for hard twisted single silk or
rayon yarns with 50 or more turns per inch.
Used for chiffon, mousseline de soie, etc.
now also applied to similarly twisted yarns of
man-made fibres.
CHIFFON VELVET fabrics Very light, soft velvet
fabric with little
substance to it
Very light, soft velvet fabric with little
substance to it. It is floaty and effective but
very difficult to sew. It has a short cut pile.
CHINA SILK fabrics See J ap silk See J ap silk
CHINA-GRASS fabrics See Ramie. See Ramie.
CHINCHILLA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Bluish grey, soft, curly
fur, with marks and
shadings, which comes
from a small rodent
bred in captivity for the
fur.
Bluish grey, soft, curly fur, with marks and
shadings, which comes from a small rodent
bred in captivity for the fur. Rarely found now
due to the rarity of the animal and
subsequent high cost of the fur.
CHINCHILLA CLOTH fabrics Cloth made to simulate
the fur of the chinchilla
rodent.
Cloth made to simulate the fur of the
chinchilla rodent. It is a wool coating fabric, in
thick twill weave with a napped surface rolled
into little curly balls by a special rubbing
machine. Its chief characteristic is its spongy
feel; it is not heavy or dense. Fairly
expensive. Used only for coats and capes.
CHINESE COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A type of cotton fibre A type of cotton fibre. Average fibre length
13-18 mm.; usually used in mixture with other
qualities.
CHINO fabrics Firm, usually white,
cotton fabric, in twill or
plain weave, of combed
mercerised yarns.
Firm, usually white, cotton fabric, in twill or
plain weave, of combed mercerised yarns. It
is hardwearing. Used for sportswear and
summer uniforms
CHINTZ fabrics Name derived from the
Indian word chint,
meaning coloured and
variegated.
Name derived from the Indian word chint,
meaning coloured and variegated. Good
quality printed floral cotton furnishing fabric
on a white or natural ground. Printed designs
are usually large, of flowers, birds, etc. Is a
fine, closely woven cloth, sized and
calendered in order to resist dirt. Used for
curtains, loose covers, etc., and only
occasionally for clothes. See also Glazed
chintz
CHIP FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Wool that has been
treated with chlorine to
decrease shrinkage
and increase the ability
to take dyes
Wool that has been treated with chlorine to
decrease shrinkage and increase the ability
to take dyes. Useful in producing two colour
effects in a single dye-bath and in preparation
of wool for printing.
CHLORINE A greenish-yellow A greenish-yellow gaseous element widely
156
Word Category Short description Description
gaseous element used as a bleaching element. Available in
various forms and compounds for bleaching
cellulose fibres
CHLORINE BLEACH A bleach that releases
the hypochlorite ion in
solution
A bleach that releases the hypochlorite ion in
solution, e.g. sodium hypochlorite.
CHLORINE RESISTANT
FINISH
processes,
operations
Resin finish for fabrics,
especially to provide
crease resistance or
wrinkle resistance or
wash and wear
properties
Resin finish for fabrics, especially to provide
crease resistance or wrinkle resistance or
wash and wear properties, which does not
retain chlorine when exposed during
laundering. If chlorine is retained, as is the
case with most urea and melamine finishes,
the heat of ironing turns the chlorine to
hydrochloric acid which yellows and weakens
the fabric.
CHLORINE RETENTION fibers,
filaments,
yarns
In textiles, unblocked
nitrogen in resin may
attract and retain
varying amount of
chlorine.
In textiles, unblocked nitrogen in resin may
attract and retain varying amount of chlorine.
Chlorine released by the heat of ironing will
react with water to cause discoloration and
degradation of the fabric
CHLOROFIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Generic name for a
manufactured fibre
Generic name for a manufactured fibre
composed of synthetic linear macromolecules
having in the chain more than 50 % (by
mass) of chrloroethene (vinyl chloride) or 1,1-
dichloroethene (vinylidene chloride) groups
(more than 65 % in case when the rest of the
chain is made up of cyanoethene
(acrilonitrile) groups, the modacrylic fibres
being thus excluded.
Chlorofibres are often blended with other
fibres such as acrylic, polyester, nylon or
wool and are made into woven and knitted
fabrics. Being non-flammable, the fibre is also
used as the backing for deep pile imitation fur
fabrics. However, the term is also widely
used to denote polyvinyl chloride fibres. See
also Polyvinylchloride.
CHOPPED WEFT defects Also called Cut weft Also called Cut weft. Weft that has been
fractured by the reed while being beaten up
during weaving.
CHROMA general The relative intensity,
saturation or purity of a
colour
The relative intensity, saturation or purity of a
colour, e.g. bright red, dull red, etc
CHROMATIC COLOURS general Hue colours such as
blue, yellow, red
Hue colours such as blue, yellow, red as
opposed to the Achromatic colours such as
grey, slate, white.
CHROMATICITY general The quality of colour The quality of colour expressed as a function
157
Word Category Short description Description
of wavelength and purity.
CHROME Sodium dichromate or
potassium dichromate
oxidising agents
Sodium dichromate or potassium dichromate
oxidising agents used for mordanting.
CHROME DYES processes,
operations
Mordant dyes are
capable of forming a
chelate complex with a
chromium ion.
Mordant dyes are capable of forming a
chelate complex with a chromium ion. They
are not as bright, but are faster than the acid
dyes. Used extensively for mens wear
fabrics.
CHROME LEATHER fabrics Inexpensive leather
that has been tanned
with chromium salts.
Inexpensive leather that has been tanned
with chromium salts. Used mostly in the shoe
industry.
CHROME TOP DYES An important mass of
fast dyes for wool.
An important mass of fast dyes for wool. The
chrome dyes or mordant is applied after the
dyeing process
CHROMOPHORE That part of the
molecular structure of
an organic dye or
pigment responsible for
colour.
That part of the molecular structure of an
organic dye or pigment responsible for
colour.
CHROMOSCOPE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
An instrument for
showing the optical
effects of colour
An instrument for showing the optical effects
of colour
CHRYSALIS general The form taken by
silkworms in the
passive stage of
development between
worm and moth.
The form taken by silkworms in the passive
stage of development between worm and
moth. It is dark brown and fragments of it can
be detected in silk waste, especially in noils
CHYSOLITE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Based on its chemical
nature, Asbetos is
classified into chysolite
and crocodolite
Based on its chemical nature, Asbetos is
classified into chysolite and crocodolite. The
chemical description of Chysolite is
magnesium silicate. Geographical sources;
Canada and Russia.
CIE SPECIAL
TRISTIMULUS VALUES
See under Colour
measurement.
See under Colour measurement.
CIRCLE TWISTED fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A core yarn produced
at the spinning frame
by the feeding of yarn
through the delivery
rollers only,
simultaneously with the
spinning of staple yarn.
A core yarn produced at the spinning frame
by the feeding of yarn through the delivery
rollers only, simultaneously with the spinning
of staple yarn. Typical core component yarns
are staple, elastomeric, flat or textured
filament yarns. See also Core yarn.
CIRCULAR BEND processes,
operations
Simultaneous, multi-
directional deformation
of a fabric
Simultaneous, multi-directional deformation
of a fabric in which one face of a flat
specimen becomes concave and the other
becomes convex.
158
Word Category Short description Description
CIRCULAR KNIT fabrics Thin plain knit fabric
made on a circular
knitting machine.
Thin plain knit fabric made on a circular
knitting machine.
CIRCULAR KNITTING
MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A knitting machine in
which the needles are
set radially or in parallel
in one or more circular
beds
A knitting machine in which the needles are
set radially or in parallel in one or more
circular beds. Used without qualification, the
term generally refers to a weft-knitting
machine of this type. Ma-chines with
diameters of less than 165 mm are generally
termed small-diameter machines.
CIRCULAR LOOM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A loom with the warp
set in a circle round a
circular shuttle race
A loom with the warp set in a circle round a
circular shuttle race, used for weaving coarse
cloths such as sacking
CIRCULAR SHUTTLE
BOX
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A cylinder, placed at
the end of shuttle race,
which carries two or
more shuttles
A cylinder, placed at the end of shuttle race,
which carries two or more shuttles. It revolves
so as to bring shuttles to the level of the
shuttle race in turn as required and change
the shuttles according to the pattern and, in
automatic looms, when they become empty.
Not used as widely as the rising and falling
shuttle box systems
CIR fabrics French word for
waxed.
French word for waxed. It was originally a
waxed fabric used for shrouds. Waxing
treatment makes the fabric surface very
lustrous and smooth; it may be applied to silk
also. See Nylon cir.
CISEL VELVET fabrics The characteristics of
cisel velvet is a
pattern
The characteristics of cisel velvet is a
pattern formed by cutting only some of the
pile; the rest is left uncut.
CLADDING apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Any item of covering
material which is
applied to the head or
buck of a pressing or
under-pressing
machine
Any item of covering material which is applied
to the head or buck of a pressing or under-
pressing machine
CLASSIFIED GARMENT
DEFECTS
defects See Garment defects,
classified
See Garment defects, classified
CLAY apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Tailors chalk. See Tailors chalk.
CLEAN CUT processes,
operations
A clean cut is created
in a woven fabric in a
Herringbone
A clean cut is created in a woven fabric,
where two adjacent ends or two adjacent
picks interlace in an exactly opposite order to
each other, e.g., in a Herringbone
CLEAN-FINISH SEAM-
FINISH
seams,
stitches
Also called Turned and
stitched seam-finish.
Also called Turned and stitched seam-finish.
A finish for the raw edges of the seam
allowances of a plain seam, in which the raw
159
Word Category Short description Description
seam allowance is folded under and edge
stitched. A clean-finish seam-finish is made
by (1) turning under the raw edge of a plain
seam allowance approximately 3 to 6 mm,
and (2) stitching close to the folded edge. It
may be helpful on curved areas or some
fabrics, to place a row of stitching 3 to 6 mm
from the raw edge to serve as a guide for
turning.
CLEANING AGENT chemicals,
textile
auxiliaries
A chemical compound
or formulation of
several compounds
which loosen, disperse,
dissolve, or emulsify
soil
A chemical compound or formulation of
several compounds which loosen, disperse,
dissolve, or emulsify soil to facilitate removal
by mechanical action.
CLEANNESS general In a textile material, the
absence of change in
appearance due to soil
In a textile material, the absence of change in
appearance due to soil, specifically the
degree to which the specimen approaches
the original clean, unsoiled condition.
Cleanness is independent of changes of
physical structure, which may be present
because of exposure to traffic or action of
cleaning procedures.
CLEAR fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Term commonly used
to denote man-made
fibres, the natural lustre
of which has not been
reduced
Term commonly used to denote man-made
fibres, the natural lustre of which has not
been reduced, i.e. absence of any delustrant
in the fibre. See also Delustrant, Delustered
and Bright
CLEAR FINISH processes,
operations
A type of finish on
fabrics containing wool.
A type of finish on fabrics containing wool.
The surface of the fabric is made relatively
free from protruding fibres and the weave and
the colours of the constituent yarns are made
clear, distinct, and sharp. Examples of clear
finished fabrics include serges and many
worsted fabrics. Shearing and singeing
treatments make for a clear finish, while
fulling and napping tend to cover up the
weave and the yarns.
CLEARING processes,
operations
IN YARNS, the
operation to remove
flaws and faults in a
yarn.
1. IN YARNS, the operation to remove flaws
and faults in a yarn.
2. IN FABRICS either dyed or printed, the
removal of surplus colorant, which, if allowed
to remain, would mar the appearance of the
quality of the textile
CLEM garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A very small dart A very small dart which is sewn and not cut
160
Word Category Short description Description
CLEVYL fabrics Trade name for a range
of flame resistant
fabrics made from PVC
chlorofibre
Trade name for a range of flame resistant
fabrics made from PVC chlorofibre. Used for
furnishings in public buildings, offices, etc.,
on account of their exceptional safety and
also because of the wide range of weaves
and effects that are possible.
CLING general See Fibre cohesion. See Fibre cohesion.
CLIP MARK defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Also called Centring mark,
Stenter mark, Tenter mark. A visible
deformation of shift marks along the side
edge or body of the fabric, caused due to
unduly strained fabric at the point where the
clip or pin has held fabric on the stenter
frame. See also Pin mark.
CLIP SPOT WEAVE fabrics Figured fabrics
decorated with small
detached spots of extra
warp or weft yarn.
Figured fabrics decorated with small
detached spots of extra warp or weft yarn.
The floating material between the spots is
clipped off or sheared in finishing
CLIP-CONE TWO-FOR-
ONE TWISTING
processes,
operations
See under Two-for-one
twisting
See under Two-for-one twisting
CLO general Also called Intrinsic clo Also called Intrinsic clo. Unit of thermal
resistance defined as the insulation required
to keep a resting man (producing heat at the
rate of 58 W/m2 ) comfortable in an
environment at 21 C, air movement 0.1 m/s,
or roughly the insulation value of typical
indoor clothing.
CLOQU fabrics French word for
blistered. A soft fabric
that drapes well into
elaborate styles.
French word for blistered. A soft fabric that
drapes well into elaborate styles; a fabric with
a figured blister effect on the surface, brought
about by the use of yarns of different
character. These will respond in different
ways to finishing treatments, e.g. two yarns of
uneven shrinkage potentials are woven
together. The fabric is then relaxed, when
one yarn shrinks more than the other and the
excess material is left to form a design. The
raised figures may be regular or in irregular
lines.
Once a popular silk fabric for gowns and
hats, it was superseded by artificial silk
imitations. Now it is produced mainly from
acetate and polyester yarns, and the
advantage of this development is that the
blistering is permanent. Used for evening and
cocktail wear, some millinery, and negliges.
Does not crease.
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Word Category Short description Description
CLOSED LOOP fabrics A term used in both
weft and warp knitting
A term used in both weft and warp knitting to
describe a loop closed at the base, i.e. the
component thread crosses over itself in the
construction of the loop
CLOSED SHEDDING processes,
operations
A method of shedding
in which all warp
threads are brought to
the same level after the
insertion of each pick of
weft
A method of shedding in which all warp
threads are brought to the same level after
the insertion of each pick of weft. There are
two main types: bottom-closed shedding and
centre-closed shedding (the terms bottom
and centre indicate the position of the warp
threads when at rest).
CLOSED-FACE FABRIC fabrics A face or shell fabric of
closed construction
A face or shell fabric of closed construction
so that no open-face areas appear.
CLOSING fabrics Low count cotton
fabrics that have been
sized to fill in open
spaces between warp
and filling yarns.
Low count cotton fabrics that have been
sized to fill in open spaces between warp and
filling yarns. Calendering follows to flatten the
yarn and thus make a compact cloth.
CLOTH fabrics A piece of textile fabric
suitable for a specified
use.
A piece of textile fabric suitable for a
specified use. The word is used to describe
any type of fabric, however in the tailoring
trade the word cloth is usually applied only to
the principal or outside fabric of a garment.
CLOTHY fabrics Both the hand and
appearance of fabric.
Both the hand and appearance of fabric. A
clothy hand is firm but supple and has body,
as distinguished from a papery and limpy
hand. A threadiness of the fabric, a cloth that
clearly shows the threads on the face, is
described as having a clothy appearance.
CLOUD YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A type of fancy yarn. A type of fancy yarn. A yarn using two
threads of different colours in such a manner
that each thread alternately forms the base
and cover to cloud the opposing thread. It is
made by alternate fast and slow deliveries
from two pairs of rollers.
CLOUDY GOODS defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Materials that are off-shade,
because of uneven dyeing or due to faulty
finishing of the goods. See also Mottled fabric
CLUNY LACE fabrics Close, heavy bobbin
lace made originally in
France and Belgium,
often with a wheel
design.
Close, heavy bobbin lace made originally in
France and Belgium, often with a wheel
design. Its heaviness limited its use to collar
decoration in dress but it was much used for
mats, doilies and tableware
CLYDELLA fabrics Trade name for a
traditional fabric
Trade name for a traditional fabric, soft
woven mixture of 81 % cotton and 19 % wool,
in plain or print. Wears well, is soft and warm
and washes easily. Used for shirts, blouses,
162
Word Category Short description Description
nightwear, babys and childrens clothes. See
also Viyella.
CM fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See
Carboxymethylated
cotton.
See Carboxymethylated cotton.
CMC See
Carboxymethylcellulose
See Carboxymethylcellulose
CMT processes,
operations
Abbreviation of cut,
make and trim.
Abbreviation of cut, make and trim. In
garment industry, the practice of a contractor
being supplied with materials and designs in
order to produce garments for a principal
CO-SPUN YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn composed of a
number of filaments of
polymer X and
filaments of polymer Y
that were extruded
simultaneously during
yarn manufacture to
form a single strand.
A yarn composed of a number of filaments of
polymer X and filaments of polymer Y that
were extruded simultaneously during yarn
manufacture to form a single strand.
Polymers X and Y can be either of different
generic species, such as nylon and polyester,
or of the same species, such as copolymer
and homopolymer polyester.
COACH LACE fabrics See Carriage lace See Carriage lace
COAL TAR DYES seams,
stitches
Synthetic dyes made
from coal tar.
Synthetic dyes made from coal tar. The dye
intermediates developed form coal tar
crudes are by further chemical combinations
converted in to coal tar dyes. Among natural
dyes, these are superior in colour range,
purity, fastness and ease of application.
COARSE END defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Also called Heavy end and
Coarse thread. A larger than normal diameter
warp end.
COARSE FILLING BAR defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Same as Set mark and Heavy
place. A weftwise bar either across the full
width of the cloth or a portion of it, containing
picks of larger diameter than normally being
used in the fabric or containing more than the
normal number of picks
COARSE PICK defects Fabric defect in woven
fabric.
Fabric defect in woven fabric. Also called
Thick pick and Heavy pick. One or more pick
yarns larger in diameter than normally being
used in the fabric
COARSE THREAD defects See Coarse end. See Coarse end.
COAT garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
An outer garment An outer garment, which covers at least the
upper half of the body, has sleeves and a
front opening, and is usually worn over
another garment, such as a shirt or dress
COATED COTTON fabrics A thin coating of
polyurethane on cotton
A thin coating of polyurethane on cotton or
viscose backing produces a soft shower-
163
Word Category Short description Description
or viscose backing
produces a soft
shower-proof cloth.
proof cloth. Plain or printed. Used for shorts,
anoraks, raincoats, and jackets.
COATED FABRIC fabrics A flexible material A flexible material composed of a textile
fabric and an adherent polymeric material
applied to one or both surfaces. See also
Laminated fabric
COBBLE processes,
operations
To correct a defectively
processed fabric.
To correct a defectively processed fabric.
COBBLER fabrics defectively dyed or
finished fabric returned
for correction
defectively dyed or finished fabric returned for
correction
COBWEBBING defects Also called Stitching,
Crossing and Webbing
Also called Stitching, Crossing and Webbing.
A fault in winding, that causes threads to lie
in a straight line across the end of a package.
It is caused by the yarn slipping beyond the
normal extremity of the traverse during
winding. Cobwebbing may result in yarn
breaks during unwinding.
COCHINEAL A natural dye of brilliant
red colour
A natural dye of brilliant red colour made from
female cochineal insects.
COCKLE defects,
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
IN YARN, isolated
loops of fibres
protruding from the
yarn surface
IN FABRIC, a defect.
1. IN YARN, isolated loops of fibres
protruding from the yarn surface owing to the
relaxation of adja-cent fibres that have
previously been stretched during processing.
If not intended, a defect.
2. IN FABRIC, a defect. The wrinkled
appearance of a fabric in which non-uniform
relaxation or shrinkage has occurred. This
defect may result from variations in the
tension of the ends or picks at the time of
weaving, from variations in the degree of
stretch imposed on the yarn during earlier
pro-cesses, or from differences in the
contraction of two or more yarns used
accidentally in the fabric. The defect may be
distributed over a large area of fabric or may
be confined to isolated stripes, bars, or
streaks.
3. See Hockle.
COCKLING fabrics In knitted fabric, an
irregular surface effect
In knitted fabric, an irregular surface effect
caused by loop distortion. If not intended, a
defect.
COCOANUT FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A coarse, long fibre
obtained from the
cocoanut.
A coarse, long fibre obtained from the
cocoanut. Used for coir yarn, brushes, etc.
COCOON fibers, An egg-shaped casing An egg-shaped casing of silk spun by
164
Word Category Short description Description
filaments,
yarns
of silk spun by silkworm silkworm to protect itself as a chrysalis
COCOON STRIPPINGS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Blaze and
Keba.
Also called Blaze and Keba. The first threads
secreted by the silkworm when it finds a
place to form its cocoon
COEFFICIENT OF
FRICTION
general The ratio of the force
required to achieve this
relative motion to the
force to the force
pressing two bodies
together.
The ratio of the force required to achieve this
relative motion to the force to the force
pressing two bodies together.
COEFFICIENT OF
TWIST
general A measure of the level
of twist of a yarn
A measure of the level of twist of a yarn,
determined by the multiplication of the turns
per unit length by the square root of the linear
density on a direct system, or the division of
the turns per unit length by the square root of
the count on an indirect system
COEFFICIENT OF
VARIATION
general Also called CV. Also called CV. A measure of the dispersion
of observed values equal to the standard
deviation for the values divided by the
average of the values; may be expressed as
a percentage of the average CV %.
COEFFICIENT OF
VARIATION
UNEVENNESS
general Also called CV %. Also called CV %. In textiles, the standard
deviation of the linear densities over which
unevenness is measured, expressed as a
percentage of the average linear density for
the total length within which unevenness is
measured. See also Unevenness and Mean
deviation unevenness.
COHESION general See Fibre cohesion. See Fibre cohesion.
COHESIVE FORCE general In a textile strand, the
force required to
overcome fibre
cohesion
In a textile strand, the force required to
overcome fibre cohesion as the strand is
being reduced in linear density
COHESIVE SET processes,
operations
See under Setting See under Setting
COIN DOTS fabrics See under Polka dots See under Polka dots
COIR fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Coir is a coarse, dark
brown fibre obtained
from coconut, the fruit
of the palm cocos
nucifera.
Coir is a coarse, dark brown fibre obtained
from coconut, the fruit of the palm cocos
nucifera. Used mainly for ropes, carpets,
doormats etc. There are three types of coir
fibre. The longest and finest, which is usually
obtained from the unripe fruit, is spun into
yarn for making mats and ropes; a coarser
fibre known as bristle fibre, is used for filling
brushes; and a shorter fibre is used for filling
mattresses and upholstery, etc.
165
Word Category Short description Description
COLLAGEN FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A protein fibre
produced from split
hides
A protein fibre produced from split hides.
These dope-dyed fibres are similar to
horsehair in appearance. It has good
dimensional stability and excellent resistance
to drycleaning solvents. Used mainly for
brushes
COLLAR garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Neck band, upright or
turned over on a coat,
dress, shirt, etc.
Neck band, upright or turned over on a coat,
dress, shirt, etc. Band of lining, lace or other
material, which completes the upper part of a
garment around the neck.
COLLAR CANVAS fabrics See under Linen
canvas
See under Linen canvas
COLORANT A material which is
applied to a substrate
A material which is applied to a substrate for
the express purpose of changing the
transmittance or reflectance of visible light.
Dyes, pigments, tints, and optical brighteners
are examples of colorants.
COLORANT BLEEDING defects See Colour bleeding See Colour bleeding
COLORANT STAINING defects The unintended pickup
of colorant by a
substrate
The unintended pickup of colorant by a
substrate (a) due to exposure to a coloured
or contaminated liquid medium, or (b) due to
direct contact with dyed or pigmented
material, from which colorant transfers by
sublimation or mechanical action (as in
crocking). See also Colour staining.
COLORIMETER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
An instrument for
measuring the depth of
colour in a liquid
An instrument for measuring the depth of
colour in a liquid by comparison with a
standard liquid of the same tint.
A device for determining and characterising
colours by reference either to other colours or
to certain complex stimuli.
COLORIMETRIC
SYSTEM
See under Colour
measurement.
See under Colour measurement.
COLOUR general When a beam of
sunlight passes through
a prism it is separated
into a spectrum of
seven easily discernible
colours, which are:
Violet, Blue, Blue-
green, Green, Yellow,
Orange and Red.
When a beam of sunlight passes through a
prism it is separated into a spectrum of seven
easily discernible colours, which are: Violet,
Blue, Blue-green, Green, Yellow, Orange and
Red. The phenomenon of colour may be
defined as the sensation created in the brain
of the beholder, by the message stimulated
by the impact of radiation of a particular
wavelength on the nerves in the eye.
Primary Colours: The primary or pure colours
are red, yellow and blue; when mixed they
produce all other colours.
Secondary Colours: Green, orange and
viloet. Obtained by mixing two primary
166
Word Category Short description Description
colours.
Tertiary Colours: Shades of colour made by
mixing the primary colours or one or more of
the secondary colours with grey or black.
COLOUR ABRASION defects See Frosting. See Frosting.
COLOUR BLEEDING defects Also called Bleeding.
Dyeing defect.
Also called Bleeding. Dyeing defect. The loss
of colour from a dyed textile substrate when
in contact with water, dry-cleaning solvent, or
condensed vapours, or similar liquid medium
with consequent colouring of the liquid
medium.
COLOUR BLOCK apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A print-block, usually of
wood
A print-block, usually of wood, infilled with felt
to facilitate the printing of bigger areas of
colour with as little unevenness as possible
COLOUR BOX apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Colour trough See Colour trough
COLOUR CHANGE processes,
operations
In textile testing, a
change in colour of any
kind whether in
lightness, hue or
chroma
In textile testing, a change in colour of any
kind whether in lightness, hue or chroma, or
any combination of these, discernible by
comparing the test specimen with a
corresponding untested specimen.
COLOUR CONSTANCY The ability of a
coloured object to give
the same general
colour impression when
viewed under different
illuminants
The ability of a coloured object to give the
same general colour impression when viewed
under different illuminants, the observer
having been chromatically adapted in each
case. The most common comparison is made
between the impression under artificial light,
e.g. tungsten filament, and that under
daylight
COLOUR DISCHARGE
PRINTING
processes,
operations
See Discharge style
printing
See Discharge style printing
COLOUR DOCTOR apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Doctor. See Doctor.
COLOUR FASTNESS general The resistance of a
textile material to
change in any of its
colour characteristics
The resistance of a textile material to change
in any of its colour characteristics, to transfer
its colorant(s) to adjacent materials, or both,
as a result of the exposure of the material to
any environment that might be encountered
during the processing, testing, storage or use
of the material.
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
LIGHT
general The resistance of a
textile material to
change in its colour
characteristics
The resistance of a textile material to change
in its colour characteristics as a result of the
exposure of the material to sunlight or an
artificial light source.
COLOUR GRADING processes, The act of identifying a The act of identifying a dyed or printed textile
167
Word Category Short description Description
operations dyed or printed textile
material specimen by a
colour grade or colour
score
material specimen by a colour grade or
colour score that is specific to the colour and
the material graded. The following terms may
be used for qualitative description of colour
changes:
COLOUR INDEX
INTERNATIONAL
general Important information,
on the thousands of
commercial dyestuffs
made in the world by
major dyestuff
manufacturers in
various countries.
Important information, on the thousands of
commercial dyestuffs made in the world by
major dyestuff manufacturers in various
countries. These dyestuffs, is compiled in a
publication, Colour Index International,
jointly published by the Society of Dyers and
Colourists of the UK and the American
Association of Textile Chemists and
Colourists. In this very useful publication, the
dyestuffs are classified based on their
chemical structure and each dyestuff is given
a C.I. Constitution Number. They are also
classified according to the application or
usage, in which they are given a C.I. Generic
Name, along with its colour (hue). See also
Colour Index constitution number, and
ColourIndex generic name
COLOUR INTENSITY See Colour saturation. See Colour saturation.
COLOUR LAKE The insoluble
combination of mordant
and a dyestuff that has
been fixed on the fibre
The insoluble combination of mordant and a
dyestuff that has been fixed on the fibre, such
as tannin with basic dyes on cotton, or
chrome dyes with a mordant on wool.
COLOUR MATCHING processes,
operations
The art of reproducing
a colour upon similar or
different materials.
The art of reproducing a colour upon similar
or different materials. Matchings can be done
on fibre, yarn or cloth.
COLOUR
MEASUREMENT
Colorimetric System,
Trichromatic System,
Special Tristimulus
Values,
CIE special Tristimulus
Values
Colorimetric System: Quantitative system of
colour specification based on scales derived
from ei-ther additive or subtractive colour
mixture.
Trichromatic System: System of colour
specification based on the possibility of
matching a colour stimulus by the additive
mixture of three suitably chosen reference
stimuli.
Special Tristimulus Values: Tristimulus
values, on any given trichromatic system, of
the mono-chromatic components of an equi-
energy spectrum. The set of spectral
tristimulus values defines the colour-
matching functions or colour matching-
curves.
CIE special Tristimulus Values: Colour
characterised numerically by tristimulus
168
Word Category Short description Description
values of the spectral components of an equi-
energy spectrum in the CIE (XYZ) system
COLOUR OUT defects Printing defect, major Printing defect, major. This is the result of
colour running low in the reservoir on the
printing ma-chine.
COLOUR QUALITY .
COLOUR QUALIT
A specification of colour
I
A specification of colour in terms of both hue
and saturation, but not luminance.
COLOUR SATURATION Also called Colour
intensity
Also called Colour intensity. A measure of the
strength or purity of a colour. The nearness of
a colour in purity to the associated spectral
colour. Purity increases with increasing
concentration of dye on the fibre
COLOUR SMEAR defects Printing defect, may be
major or minor
Printing defect, may be major or minor. The
result of the colour being smeared during
printing.
COLOUR STAINING defects Fabric defect. The
undesired pickup of
colour by a fabric,
Fabric defect. The undesired pickup of colour
by a fabric, (a) when immersed in water, dry-
cleaning solvent, or similar liquid medium,
that contains dyestuffs, or colouring material
not intended for colouring the fabric, or (b) by
direct contact with other dyed material from
which colour is transferred by bleeding or
sublimation.
COLOUR STRIPPERS Chemicals that extract
colour (dyestuffs) from
fibres, yarns, and
fabrics
Chemicals that extract colour (dyestuffs) from
fibres, yarns, and fabrics to (a) correct colour
defects in the original dyeing; (2) lighten the
shade of the original dyeing; (3) remove
colour completely.
COLOUR SUBLIMATION processes,
operations
One type of a loss of a
dyestuff on a fabric
One type of a loss of a dyestuff on a fabric
when subjected to high temperature.
COLOUR TROUGH apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Also known as Colour
box
Also known as Colour box. In engraved or
surface roller printing, the colour container in
which the furnishing brush or roller rotates.
COLOUR VALUE The colour yield of a
colorant, compared
with a standard of
equal cost.
The colour yield of a colorant, compared with
a standard of equal cost. It is usually
determined by comparing the cost of
coloration at equal visual strength.
Comparisons are normally made between
products of similar hue and properties
COLOUR YIELD Also called Tinctorial
value.
Also called Tinctorial value. The depth of
colour obtained when a standard weight of
colorant is applied to a substrate under
specified conditions
COLOUR-AND-WEAVE
EFFECT
fabrics In a woven fabric, an
effect developed by a
small-group colour
patterning of warp
In a woven fabric, an effect developed by a
small-group colour patterning of warp and/or
weft. The blending of the warp and weft floats
of the constituent colours produce a
169
Word Category Short description Description
and/or weft. distinctive effect which renders the weave
effect virtually indistinguishable and often the
colour order of the threads is not apparent
COLOURIST general A person experienced
in developing colour
formulas
A person experienced in developing colour
formulas, evaluating samples for colour, and
producing colour samples to meet standards
COLOURWAY fabrics,
processes,
operations
IN FABRICS: A
rendering of a design or
printed fabric in a set of
colours differing from
the original.
IN
PRINTING:Alternative
colouring of a design
on fabric.
1. IN FABRICS. A rendering of a design or
printed fabric in a set of colours differing from
the origi-nal. Fabrics are usually made in a
set of at least four colourways.
2. IN PRINTING. Alternative colouring of a
design on fabric. Because it is usual to have
an overlap or allowance on paler colours
where these print next to deeper shades, it is
essential for an alternative colourway to
retain the tone relationship - i.e. darker
remains darker - although the distance
between the tones can be changed
COMB apparatus,
equipage,
tools
to separate yarns in a
warp.
In weaving, a comb-like device to separate
yarns in a warp.
COMBED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Yarn made from fibres
that have been carded
and combed
Yarn made from fibres that have been carded
and combed in the manufacturing process.
COMBINATION
FABRICS
fabrics Fabrics that contain two
or more different types
of fibre.
Fabrics that contain two or more different
types of fibre. However, these differ from
blends in that any one single yarn in a
combination fabric is composed of only one
fibre type.
COMBINATION LACE fabrics Openwork effects
obtained in lace
furnishings
Openwork effects obtained in lace furnishings
by nipping two or more pillars (or warps)
together to make a hole wider than a normal
wale
COMBINATION TWILL fabrics Also called Combined
twill.
Also called Combined twill. A twill, which
combines two regular twills in one weave.
COMBINATION YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A plied yarn twisted
from single yarns of
different fibres,
A plied yarn twisted from single yarns of
different fibres, e.g. silk, and rayon, or rayon
and acetate. See also Blended yarn and Self-
blended yarn.
COMBINATION-STITCH seams,
stitches
A back-stitch and two
or more running
stitches combined.
A back-stitch and two or more running
stitches combined. Combination stitch is used
when more strength is required than can be
afforded by a running stitch.
COMBINED ROPE accessories See under Rope See under Rope
COMBINED TWILL fabrics See Combination twill See Combination twill
COMBING processes, The process of The process of straightening and parellelizing
170
Word Category Short description Description
operations straightening and
parellelizing fibres and
removing short fibres
and impurities by using
a comb.
fibres and removing short fibres and
impurities by using a comb. See also
Combing under Yarn spinning.
COMBING WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Wool that is strong and
strictly of combing
length
Wool that is strong and strictly of combing
length, i.e. 2 in. (50 mm) or more.
COMBUSTIBLE TEXTILE general A textile that will ignite
and burn
A textile that will ignite and burn or that will
give off vapours that will ignite and burn when
subjected to external sources of ignition
COMBUSTION processes,
operations
A chemical process of
oxidation
A chemical process of oxidation that occurs
at a rate fast enough to produce heat and
usually light either as a glow or flames.
COMFORT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Fibre
properties
See under Fibre properties
COMFORT STRETCH
FABRICS
fabrics See under Woven
stretch fabric
See under Woven stretch fabric
COMFORTER garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A bed-covering
assembly
A bed-covering assembly, consisting of an
insulating filler secured between two layers of
fabric, used primarily to reduce heat loss.
COMMERCIAL
ALLOWANCE
general An arbitrary value equal
to the commercial
moisture regain plus a
specified allowance for
finish
An arbitrary value equal to the commercial
moisture regain plus a specified allowance for
finish, formally adopted for use with the mass
of the scoured, oven-dried material in making
certain calculations.
COMMERCIAL
COLOURS
Shades which are not
fast to washing or light
Shades which are not fast to washing or light
COMMERCIAL
COMPOSITION
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
In wool, the
percentages by weight
of wool base, moisture,
and other non-wool
base components in
wool
In wool, the percentages by weight of wool
base, moisture, and other non-wool base
components in wool to which a specific
commercial designation is applied.
COMMERCIAL
CONSUMER
general See under Consumer. See under Consumer.
COMMERCIAL
DESIGNATION
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
In wool, a term applied
to a lot of wool in a
stated form
In wool, a term applied to a lot of wool in a
stated form, and having a specified
commercial composition.
COMMERCIAL DYES See Direct dyes. See Direct dyes.
COMMERCIAL
LAUNDERING
processes,
operations
A process by which
textile products or
specimens may be
rinsed, bleached, dried,
and pressed by non-
A process by which textile products or
specimens may be rinsed, bleached, dried,
and pressed by non-home type equipment,
typically at higher temperatures, higher pH,
and longer times than used for home
171
Word Category Short description Description
home type equipment laundering
COMMERCIAL MASS general Also called Commercial
weight
Also called Commercial weight. Billed mass
(weight) as determined by a generally
accepted method or as agreed upon between
the purchaser and seller.
COMMERCIAL
MOISTURE REGAIN
general An arbitrary value
formally adopted as the
regain to be used
An arbitrary value formally adopted as the
regain to be used with the oven-dried mass
when calculating the commercial or legal
weight of shipments or deliveries of any
specific textile mate-rial.
COMMERCIAL WEIGHT general Also called Commercial
mass
Also called Commercial mass
COMMISSION FINISHER general Also called J ob finisher. Also called J ob finisher. An organisation
which dyes and finishes fibre, yarn or fabric
to order collecting an agreed upon fee of so
much per unit length/weight
COMMON TWLL fabrics Also called Ordinary
twill.
Also called Ordinary twill. An even sided four-
harness twill weave or a simple 45 two up,
two down twill. Term sometimes applied to
simple two up, one down; one up, two down
three up, one down, etc., twills, but, strictly
should refer only to two up, two down twill.
COMPACTING processes,
operations
Processing a man-
made fibre and knitted
fabric with heat and
pressure
Processing a man-made fibre and knitted
fabric with heat and pressure to shrink it so
that the texture is crpey and bulky. This is a
permanent treatment.
COMPANION FABRICS fabrics Two or more fabrics
designed to be used
together.
Two or more fabrics designed to be used
together.
COMPATBLE
SHRINKAGE
fabrics Linings and other
findings that have the
same shrinkage as the
shell (outer) fabric.
Linings and other findings that have the same
shrinkage as the shell (outer) fabric. .
COMPATIBILITY In textile dyeing,
propensity of individual
dye components in a
combination shade to
exhaust at similar rates
In textile dyeing, propensity of individual dye
components in a combination shade to
exhaust at similar rates resulting in a build-up
of shade that is consistent, or nearly
constant, in hue throughout the dyeing
process.
COMPATIBLE DYES chemicals,
textile
auxiliaries
Dyestuffs that when
mixed together are
capable of forming a
homogenous mixture
Dyestuffs that when mixed together are
capable of forming a homogenous mixture
that neither separates nor is altered by
chemical interaction.
COMPLEX SEAM seams,
stitches
A seam made in two or
more steps, as
opposed to a plain
seam.
A seam made in two or more steps, as
opposed to a plain seam. Complex seams
have one or more stitching lines as part of
their construction and include double-welt
172
Word Category Short description Description
seams, flat-felled seams, French seams,
lapped seams, mock French seams, slot
seams, tucked seams and welt seams. They
do not include plain seams or seam-finishes
or decorative additions to seams
COMPLIMENTARY
COLOURS
Colours, which are
opposite each other on
the colour wheel.
Colours, which are opposite each other on
the colour wheel. The primary colour yellow
has purple, which is a combination of red and
blue, as its complement. Green, a
combination of yellow and blue, has as its
complement the primary colour red. Hence,
the complementary colour completes the
primary colour. When exact parts of
complementary colours are combined, grey is
procured.
COMPONENT
POLYMER
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A textile fibre polymer
with distinguishable
properties
A textile fibre polymer with distinguishable
properties
COMPOSITE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A textile product formed
by intimately combining
two or more discrete
physical phases
A textile product formed by intimately
combining two or more discrete physical
phases, usually a solid matrix and a fibrous
material.
COMPOSITE FIBRES fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibres composed of
two or more polymer
types or variants of one
type of polymer
Fibres composed of two or more polymer
types or variants of one type of polymer in a
sheath-core or a side-by-side configuration.
COMPOSITE YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn composed of
both staple and
continuous filament
components,
A yarn composed of both staple and
continuous filament components, e.g. Core-
spun yarn and Wrap-spun yarn.
COMPOUND FABRIC fabrics A generic term for
layered woven fabrics
A generic term for layered woven fabrics in
which the separate layers or plies, each with
its own warp and weft, are produced
simultaneously and woven together in one
process. Fabrics comprising two plies are
known as double (or two-ply) fabrics and
others by the number of plies they contain,
e.g. three-ply fabric
COMPOUND FEED apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A feed mechanism A feed mechanism comprising synchronised
drop feed and needle feed.
COMPOUND NEEDLE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Two-piece needle
under Needle.
See Two-piece needle under Needle.
COMPOUND TWILL fabrics A fancy twill, which
combines two or more
twill,
A fancy twill, which combines two or more
twill, weaves which produce an over-all twill
effect, with each weave, however, remaining
173
Word Category Short description Description
distinct.
COMPRESSIBILITY fabrics See Hand of fabric. See Hand of fabric.
COMPUTER AIDED
DESIGN
general See CAD. See CAD.
COMPUTER AIDED
MANUFACTURE
general See CAM See CAM
COMPUTER COLOUR
MATCHING
processes,
operations
the computerised
colour matching
systems relies on the
use of the
spectrophotometer with
an integrated sphere
and the digital
computer
the computerised colour matching systems
relies on the use of the spectrophotometer
with an integrated sphere and the digital
computer, which is provided with a
programme, which enables the computer to
carry out colour matching calculations. The
spectrophotometer analyses the reflectance
colour value of the dyed sample in
quantitative terms; i.e. it measures the light
reflectance properties of individual dyes on
the fabric over the entire visible spectrum.
These data for dyes of a specific number of
different concentrations are stored in the
computer memory. When the colour value of
the sample to be matched and a list of
dyestuffs to be used are fed into the
computer, the computer prints out a number
of recipes of these dye-concentrations of
varying costs and closenesses.
COMPUTERISED
DYEING
processes,
operations
The application of
computer control to
dyeing processes.
The application of computer control to dyeing
processes. Linear programming of dyes,
which can be formulated to create any colour
desired in a shift from a neutral shade or from
any colour. Also colour matching through the
use of spectrophotometric curves and
colorimeters that ensure speed and greater
accuracy
CONDENSATION
POLYMERISATION
processes,
operations
The formation of a
polymer
The formation of a polymer by reaction of one
or more compounds with elimination of
reaction products of low molecular weight
such as water
CONDENSE DYE A dye which, during or
after application, reacts
covalently with itself or
other compounds
A dye which, during or after application,
reacts covalently with itself or other
compounds, other than the substrate, to form
a molecule of greatly increased size.
CONDENSER CARD apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A roller-and-clearer
type of card,
A roller-and-clearer type of card, as distinct
from a flat card, which converts fibrous raw
materials to slubbings, by means of a
condenser
CONDENSER-SPUN fibers,
filaments,
Term describes yarn
spun from slubbing.
Term describes yarn spun from slubbing. It is
laid without any regular order and spun with a
174
Word Category Short description Description
yarns minimum amount of draft and twist. Generally
woollen, and sometimes cotton and some
man-made fibres are made into yarn by this
method.
CONDITIONING processes,
operations
The process of
changing the moisture
regain of a textile
material
1. The process of changing the moisture
regain of a textile material to a standard
value. 2. To bring a textile material to
moisture equilibrium with a specified
atmosphere.
CONE fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The conical package of
yarn
1. YARN PACKAGE. The conical package of
yarn obtained when yarn is wound upon a
cone core. It is shaped like a frustum of a
cone.
2. YARN HOLDER. A yarn holder or bobbin
of conical shape used as a core for a yarn
package of conical form, also called a cone
core.
CONE ANGLE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The angle of the cone The angle of the cone. See Cone.
CONE WINDING processes,
operations
See Coning. See Coning.
CONEY FUR fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Soft, longhaired rabbit
fur.
Soft, longhaired rabbit fur. It is cheap and
often used to imitate more expensive ones.
Not hardwearing
CONFUSER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A device to partially
confine an air jet of the
air-jet loom.
A device to partially confine an air jet of the
air-jet loom.
CONGO RED It is the first synthetic
Direct dye invented
It is the first synthetic Direct dye invented
which would dye cotton without mordants.
CONING processes,
operations
Also called Cone
winding
Also called Cone winding. The operation of
making a cone wound package
CONING OIL An oil added in small
quantities to yarns to
lubricate them
An oil added in small quantities to yarns to
lubricate them, especially beneficial in high
speed winding and knitting.
CONJ UGATE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A bi-component fibre A bi-component fibre, which has a special
ability to crimp on hot or hot/wet treatment
because of differential shrinkage
CONNECTING RING accessories In zippers, a device
shaped like the letter
D
In zippers, a device shaped like the letter D,
used to secure a pull, having more than one
component in its design, to the bail of the
slider.
CONSECUTIVE
KNITTING
processes,
operations
A term used to describe
the act of loop
formation along a row,
one loop at a time.
A term used to describe the act of loop
formation along a row, one loop at a time.
This is a characteristic of most weft knitting
machines using the latch needle, and also
175
Word Category Short description Description
describes hand knitting. In contrast, flat
bearded needle machines incorporate loops
into the fabric collectively.
CONSIGNMENT general All the textile material
of a specific type and
quality delivered
All the textile material of a specific type and
quality delivered to one customer against a
single shipping order.
CONSOLIDATION
DIMENSIONAL CHANGE
fabrics The dimensional
change that occurs
when a knitted fabric is
gently agitated in water
The dimensional change that occurs when a
knitted fabric is gently agitated in water to
overcome all the frictional constraints in it
after it has been allowed to relax in water
without agitation to cause the relaxation
dimensional change
CONSTANT RATE OF
EXTENSION
general Also called CRE Also called CRE. A machine setting used in
textile materials testing in which the rate of
increase in the length of the specimen is
uniform with time.
The rate of increase of force or elongation is
dependent upon the extension characteristics
of the specimen.
CONSTANT RATE OF
LOADING
general Also called CRL. Also called CRL. A machine setting used in
textile materials testing in which the rate of
increase of the force being applied to the
specimen is uniform with time.
CONSTANT RATE OF
TRAVERSE
general Also called CRT Also called CRT. A machine setting used in
textile materials testing in which the straining
clamp moves at a uniform rate and the force
applied is measured via a force balancing
system through the small movement of the
nominally fixed jaw.
The rate of increase of force or elongation is
dependent upon the extension characteristics
of the specimen.
CONSTITUENT
ELEMENTS OF HAND
fabrics Those components,
qualities, attributes,
dimensions, properties
or impressions which
make the sensation of
touching
Those components, qualities, attributes,
dimensions, properties or impressions which
make the sensation of touching one fabric
different from that of touching another. See
Hand of fabric.
CONSTRUCTION fabrics See Fabric construction
and Count in fabric
See Fabric construction and Count in fabric
CONSUMER general Individuals who use
goods and services for
their own satisfaction.
Ultimate consumer: Individuals who use
goods and services for their own satisfaction.
Institutional consumer: Also called Industrial
and Commercial consumer. Individuals who
use goods and services for their businesses
to produce other goods or to operate public
institutions
176
Word Category Short description Description
CONSUMER CARE processes,
operations
cleaning and
maintenance
procedures as
customarily undertaken
by the ultimate user
In consumer textile products, cleaning and
maintenance procedures as customarily
undertaken by the ultimate user
CONSUMER TEXTILE
PRODUCT
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A textile product
intended to satisfy
human wants and
needs.
A textile product intended to satisfy human
wants and needs.
CONSUMERS RISK general In acceptance
sampling, the
probability of accepting
a lot
In acceptance sampling, the probability of
accepting a lot when the process average is
at the limiting quality level
CONTINUOUS
ELEMENT
accessories In zippers, a configured
element
In zippers, a configured element formed
continuously along a length of monofilament.
CONTINUOUS
ELEMENT ZIPPER
accessories A zipper consisting of
two continuously
formed elements
A zipper consisting of two continuously
formed elements each attached to one of the
opposing edges of two tapes, which are
engaged and disengaged by the movement
of a slider.
CONTINUOUS
FILAMENT YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn made of one or
more filaments
A yarn made of one or more filaments that
extend substantially throughout the length of
the yarn.
CONTINUOUS
PROCESS
processes,
operations
A process in which
materials passes in
sequence through a
series of stages
A process in which materials passes in
sequence through a series of stages to give a
continuous output of processed material. This
process provides a distinct saving in time,
labour and expense and the results are
usually of better quality. See also Batchwise
process.
CONTINUOUS VAT
DYEING
processes,
operations
A process of applying
shades of vat dyes in
one continuous
operation
A process of applying shades of vat dyes in
one continuous operation that includes: pad -
dry - reduce - oxidise - soap - dry, all at good
speed.
CONTINUOUS YARN
FELTING
processes,
operations
A process whereby
slivers, rovings,
slubbings, or yarns are
felted on a continuous
basis.
A process whereby slivers, rovings,
slubbings, or yarns are felted on a continuous
basis. This is achieved by passing wool-rich
material through a unit where it is agitated in
an aqueous medium where felting takes
place. The process is used to produce a yarn,
or to consolidate a spun yarn.
CONTOUR STITCHING processes,
operations
Automatic sewing along
or near the edge of a
garment part.
Automatic sewing along or near the edge of a
garment part. The shape may be
predetermined or edge following.
CONTRACTION fabrics See both Yarn take-up
and Twist take-up.
See both Yarn take-up and Twist take-up.
CONTRACTION IN fabrics The reduction in fabric The reduction in fabric width or length during
177
Word Category Short description Description
WEAVING width or length weaving or subsequent processes.
CONTROL
UNDERCOVER
GARMENT
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A garment having a
known history,
A garment having a known history, the
performance of which in a specific end-use
has been established previously, and which
is used as a standard of comparison.
CONVENTIONAL
BLANKET
fabrics See under Blanket See under Blanket
CONVENTIONAL
BUNDLE SYSTEM
processes,
operations
A production system in
which bundles pass
from storage to an
operator
A production system in which bundles pass
from storage to an operator and then back to
storage for allocation to the next operation.
See also Progressive bundle system.
CONVERTED FABRICS fabrics Fabrics that have been
finished in someway
Fabrics that have been finished in someway,
e.g. bleached, dyed, printed, as distinguished
from grey goods
CONVERTING processes,
operations
A general term applied
to finishing of grey
goods in any way
A general term applied to finishing of grey
goods in any way, e.g. bleaching, dyeing, and
printing. Also occasionally used to describe
the processing of yarn as in dyeing, sizing,
gassing, merceris-ing, winding, etc.
CONVEYOR SYSTEM processes,
operations
A type of straight-line
system
A type of straight-line system in which
operators are positioned at the side of a
conveyor, which is used to transport the
garment parts.
COOLING CYLINDER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
An open cylinder or
alternatively a closed
cylinder filled with cold
water
An open cylinder or alternatively a closed
cylinder filled with cold water, over which hot
fabric is passed to accelerate cooling.
COP accessories,
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A small tube, without
flanges, on to which
thread, usually sewing
thread, is wound.
1. A small tube, without flanges, on to which
thread, usually sewing thread, is wound.
2. A small package of thread, usually sewing
thread, wound on a cop.
3. A form of yarn package spun on a mule
spindle
COP-END EFFECT defects The gradual narrowing
of the fabric as the pirn
empties during weaving
with a single shuttle
The gradual narrowing of the fabric as the
pirn empties during weaving with a single
shuttle, forming the characteristic dog-legged
selvedge. This is caused by the increase in
yarn tension that occurs when unwinding
from the base of the pirn.
COPOLYMER A polymer formed from
two or more starting
monomers
A polymer formed from two or more starting
monomers
COPPERED BLOCK apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A printing block A printing block made by hammering-in
copper or brass strips of varying section
COPPERING processes, The art of making The art of making coppered blocks used in
178
Word Category Short description Description
operations coppered blocks used
in printing.
printing.
CORAH SILK fabrics An Indian, lightweight,
washable silk dress
goods
An Indian, lightweight, washable silk dress
goods of natural, creamy white colour.
CORAL STITCH seams,
stitches
A blanket-stitch worked
backward with a heavy
thread.
A blanket-stitch worked backward with a
heavy thread. It is embroidered closely and is
used as an outline or filling stitch.
CORD fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
accessories
A term applied loosely
to a variety of textile
strands
1. IN TEXTILES. A term applied loosely to a
variety of textile strands including, cabled
yarns, plied yarns, and structures made by
braiding knitting or weaving.
See also Cabled yarn, and Plied yarn.
2. IN ZIPPERS. A strand of multiple yarns for
use in forming a bead.
CORD CARPET garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A low-level loop-pile
carpet
A low-level loop-pile carpet with pronounced
rows of loops in the weft direction.
CORD DU ROI fabrics See Corduroy. See Corduroy.
CORD TWIST fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The amount of twist in
a cord
The amount of twist in a cord made from two
or more single or plied yarns.
CORDAGE accessories Any product, regardless
of size, made by
twisting or braiding
textile yarns
Any product, regardless of size, made by
twisting or braiding textile yarns, which is
generally round in cross section and capable
of sustaining loads.
CORDED SELVEDGE defects See Loopy selvedge. See Loopy selvedge.
CORDON YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A two-ply union yarn A two-ply union yarn made from a single
cotton yarn and a single worsted or woollen
yarn.
CORDOVAN fabrics Heavy leather from
horsehide
Heavy leather from horsehide and is the most
common leather used for coats, jackets,
boots and shoes
CORDUROY fabrics Probably the name
derived from the
French cord du roi
meaning Kings cord
Probably the name derived from the French
cord du roi meaning Kings cord. Weft-pile
fabric, traditionally made from strong cotton
yarn, featuring pile rib cords running its
length. It is made with three sets of yarns
employing a special structure combined with
a cutting process. The cut fibres form the
surface.
During weaving, extra yarns float in
lengthwise rows across the ground weave,
which are then cut. The cut pile fibres forms
the surface, the binding points of the pile
wefts being so arranged that once the pile
has been cut, fibres form a surface of wales
179
Word Category Short description Description
(rounded cords or ribs) which usually run in
the warp direction. The ground fabric is
usually plain weave or twill, and the final
finishing lays the pile at a slight slant, in one
direction. The ribs may be even or they may
be high-low, i.e. wide, high ribs alternating
with smaller low ones.
Originally produced as a very hard wearing
fabric for working trousers and breeches, but
is now produced in many forms for dress and
general clothing use, in a wide variety of cord
styles and sizes. Dress styles are produced
in rayon as well as cotton and elaborate cord
produced in traditional designs, e.g. Aran.
The fabric resembles crochet but is made on
a knitting machine, which works on the same
principle as Rashel machines; however, they
are narrower and the needles are generally
horizontal. Mainly made from acrylic, but may
be made from any man-made fibre. Used for
sweaters, shirts, dresses, braids, trims and
scarves.
CORE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The central portion of a
gimp, cord or rope
The central portion of a gimp, cord or rope,
which may consist of parallel, twisted, cabled
or knitted strands but which is not combined
structurally with the gimp, cord or rope.
CORE SAMPLING processes,
operations
A method of taking
representative samples
from bales or packs of
textile fibres
A method of taking representative samples
from bales or packs of textile fibres obtained
by inserting a coring tube driven by hand or
machine into each package.
CORE YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The internal member of
a core-spun
1. The internal member of a core-spun,
covered, or fancy yarn, readily separable
from the covering fibres or yarn.
2. A term sometimes used instead of the
preferred term Core-spun yarn.
See also Circle twisted.
CORE-SHEATH
BICOMPONENT
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under
Bicomponent fibres.
See under Bicomponent fibres.
CORE-SPUN YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A compound structure
consisting of a readily
separable filament core
A compound structure consisting of a readily
separable filament core surrounded by staple
fibre sheath and suitable for use as a yarn.
CORED BRAID accessories In rope, a hollow braid
construction, plain or
twill, the centre of
which is filled with
yarns, which are not
braided.
In rope, a hollow braid construction, plain or
twill, the centre of which is filled with yarns,
which are not braided.
180
Word Category Short description Description
COREDON fabrics A 2/1 twill woollen
dress fabric
A 2/1 twill woollen dress fabric produced with
fine warp and coarse weft.
CORKSCREW REPP fabrics A plain woven fabric
with a fine warp and a
thick spiral weft
A plain woven fabric with a fine warp and a
thick spiral weft, which gives an irregular
appearance to the rib lines. See also Repp
CORKSCREW WEAVE fabrics A warp-faced fabric
produced in a steep
twill weave.
A warp-faced fabric produced in a steep twill
weave.
CORKSCREW YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Sometimes also called
Spiral yarn. A type of
plied fancy yarn
characterised by its
smooth spiralling of one
component around the
other
Sometimes also called Spiral yarn. A type of
plied fancy yarn characterised by its smooth
spiralling of one component around the other.
It may be produced in many ways: (a) by
imparting uneven tension to component yarns
during twisting of plied yarn or cord, the
component strands with less tension form
spirals around those with greater tension. (b)
by plying two single ends or groups of ends
of equal length containing S and Z twists,
respectively, and (c) by plying two ends of
equal length, one coarser than the other.
COROA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Caroa. See Caroa.
CORONATION GIMP accessories A woven trimming,
about 12.5 mm wide,
consisting of a
continuous-filament
ground warp with plain
weave and a gimp cord
weft.
A woven trimming, about 12.5 mm wide,
consisting of a continuous-filament ground
warp with plain weave and a gimp cord weft.
Down each side, two 2-ply cords of opposing
twist are woven three up one down to
produce a grain of wheat effect. The centre
of the fabric has a continuous-filament figure
warp, the weave of which mocks the
elbowing cords
CORONIZING processes,
operations
A finishing treatment on
glass fibre and fabrics
used for textile
applications.
A finishing treatment on glass fibre and
fabrics used for textile applications. It
increases the resistance to abrasion, water
repellency, crease resistance and flexibility of
glass fibre and fabrics and improves the
handle to an impressive degree. It also
makes possible the effective coloration of
glass material.
CORTEX fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The inner portion of
most of the animal hair
fibres
The inner portion of most of the animal hair
fibres. It consists of spindle-shaped
elongated cells.
COTTED WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Wool from a fleece that
is felted or matted
together
Wool from a fleece that is felted or matted
together so that it will not tear apart freely
when handled.
COTTON BROADCLOTH fabrics A lightweight fabric of A lightweight fabric of poplin type, used
181
Word Category Short description Description
poplin type extensively for shirting, especially on the
North American continent.
COTTON CLASSING fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Cotton
grading.
Also called Cotton grading. Method of
evaluating raw cotton by systematically
recognising and identifying similarity in quality
according to standard, accepted scales of
measurement and by the use of consistent
terms of description. Principal factors are
grade, staple and character. Classing makes
marketing and selection for manufacturing
simpler and more accurate.
COTTON COUNT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The number of 840
yard lengths of yarn per
pound
The number of 840 yard lengths of yarn per
pound; an indirect yarn numbering system
generally used for yarns spun on the cotton
system
COTTON CRPE fabrics Lightweight, crinkled
fabric.
Lightweight, crinkled fabric. Washable. Used
for dresses, blouses, and childrens clothes.
COTTON FABRIC fabrics A wide variety of fabric
made from the soft,
absorbent cotton fibres.
A wide variety of fabric made from the soft,
absorbent cotton fibres. Cotton fabrics are
easily laundered and are used for all types of
clothing. See also Cotton fibre
COTTON FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The seed hair of a wide
variety of plants of the
gossypium family.
The seed hair of a wide variety of plants of
the gossypium family. Sometimes referred to
as the King of fibres. The most versatile and
widely used textile fibre, possessing more
ideal properties than any other fibre. Some of
the more widely used commercial cotton
qualities include: Sea Island cotton, Egyptian
cotton, American cotton, Indian cotton and
Chinese cotton.
Cotton is classified chiefly by two methods,
(a) by the mean length of its fibres i.e. its
staple, and (b) by grade or degree of quality.
See Cotton staple classes and Cotton quality
grades.
Each cotton fibre is a single cell. Fabrics
made from cotton are very much valued
because they are cool, absorbent and
comfortable. They have fairly firm handle and
have the ability to withstand re-peated
washings, vigorous rubbing and high
temperatures. Further they are resistant to
insects and well reputed for their long and
useful life.
On the other hand, they are flammable
(especially if napped), gradually weaken on
exposure to sun-light, and develop mildew
under suitable conditions, soil easily, crease
182
Word Category Short description Description
readily and tear fairly easily because of their
low stretch and elasticity.
COTTON FLOUNCING fabrics Plain weave, fine cotton
fabrics, embroidered
with cotton or viscose
thread,
Plain weave, fine cotton fabrics, embroidered
with cotton or viscose thread, with a
scalloped or flounced edge down one side.
Creases easily.
COTTON FRIEZE fabrics See under Frieze See under Frieze
COTTON GRADING processes,
operations
Process of describing
qualities of cotton fibres
other than staple
length.
Process of describing qualities of cotton
fibres other than staple length. Grade is
composed of the factors like, colour, foreign
matter, and preparation. See also Cotton
classing.
COTTON GRASS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibre of eriophorum
augustifolium or
eriophorum laitfolium.
Fibre of eriophorum augustifolium or
eriophorum laitfolium. Obtained from the fruit
of the reed mace and used as wadding for
upholstery, etc.
COTTON J ERSEY fabrics Knitted cotton fabric,
plain or printed
Knitted cotton fabric, plain or printed. Cool
and lightweight, very absorbent and
comfortable. Used for casual and sports
wear, summer dresses and blouses,
childrens clothes
COTTON LAP processes,
operations
In warp-knitting, a
lapping movement
made on a Milanese
machine
In warp-knitting, a lapping movement made
on a Milanese machine in which the yarn
traverses one wale per course. See also
Milanese warp-knitting machine
COTTON LINTERS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Cotton fibres that are
too short for yarn or
fabric manufacturing.
Cotton fibres that are too short for yarn or
fabric manufacturing.
COTTON MATURITY fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A factor in determining
the character of cotton,
related to the thickness
of the fibre wall.
A factor in determining the character of
cotton, related to the thickness of the fibre
wall. It depends upon the degree to which the
lumen has been obliterated by the cellulose
constituting the walls. It may also be referred
to as ripeness. The following terms are used
in relation to cotton maturity:
Mature fibre: Fibre where a high degree of
wall thickening has taken place during cotton
growth.
Immature fibre: Fibre where little wall
thickening has taken place during cotton
growth.
Normal fibre: Fibre whose wall has developed
to greater than a specified amount.
Thin-walled fibre: Fibre, which does not fall
into either the normal or dead categories.
Dead fibre: An extreme form of immature
fibre.
183
Word Category Short description Description
COTTON MODAL fabrics See Cotton viscose. See Cotton viscose.
COTTON MOUSSELINE fabrics See under Mousseline. See under Mousseline.
COTTON QUALITY
GRADES
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Cotton is classified
chiefly by two methods,
(a) by the mean length
of its fibres i.e. its
staple, and (b) by grade
or degree of quality.
Cotton is classified chiefly by two methods,
(a) by the mean length of its fibres i.e. its
staple, and (b) by grade or degree of quality.
Cotton quality grades are:
Middling Fair
Strict Good Middling.
Good Middling.
Strict Middling.
Middling (all grades are compared with this
type)
Strict Low Middling.
Low Middling.
Strict Good Ordinary.
Good Ordinary.
See also Cotton staple classes.
COTTON RATINE fabrics Loosely woven plain-
weave fabric with a
rough surface
Loosely woven plain-weave fabric with a
rough surface produced by twisting heavy
and fine cotton yarns at various tensions.
Usually dyed and polished for use as a
furnishing fabric, though it is too loosely
woven for use as chair covers.
COTTON REGATTA fabrics Plain-weave cotton
fabric similar in
appearance to denim,
but softer and with a
closer weave
Plain-weave cotton fabric similar in
appearance to denim, but softer and with a
closer weave. Produced in denim colours,
blue, grey, pink, etc., but definitely a dress
weight fabric. Used for crisp topstitched
dresses, unlined jackets, and shorts.
COTTON SATIN fabrics A soft fabric with a
sheen on the right side
made of cotton yarn in
satin weave.
A soft fabric with a sheen on the right side
made of cotton yarn in satin weave.
Produced in various weights and usually
printed. A dress fabric, but also a very
popular curtain fabric. Suitable for most styles
of dress.
COTTON SHANTUNG fabrics Plain weave cotton
fabric made from
irregular cotton yarns.
Plain weave cotton fabric made from irregular
cotton yarns. The nubs or slubs are soft and
are weak areas. Used mainly for curtains and
bedspreads.
COTTON STAPLE
CLASSES
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Cotton is classified
chiefly by two methods,
(a) by the mean length
of its fibres i.e. its
staple, and (b) by
grade or degree of
quality.
Cotton is classified chiefly by two methods,
(a) by the mean length of its fibres i.e. its
staple, and (b) by grade or degree of quality.
Staple classes are:
Very short staple: Not more than 3/4 inch in
length. Coarse in texture. Used mainly as
batting and wadding.
Short staple: Between 13/16 and 15/16 of an
184
Word Category Short description Description
inch. Used for yarns meant for cheaper
fabrics.
Medium staple: Between 15/16 and 11/8
inches.
Ordinary long staple: Between 11/8 and 13/8
inches.
Extra long staple: 13/8 to 21/2 inches long.
See also Cotton quality grades.
COTTON SYSTEM processes,
operations
A spinning system
adapted to fibres less
than 2.5 in. (65 mm) in
length
A spinning system adapted to fibres less than
2.5 in. (65 mm) in length
COTTON TREES fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Bombax, Ceiba and
Eriodendron
Bombax, Ceiba and Eriodendron are trees,
which produce a soft fibre resembling cotton.
COTTON VELVET fabrics Short pile cotton fabric
that is woven double
Short pile cotton fabric that is woven double;
with the additional warp interlacing between
the two base fabrics. The pile is afterwards
cut and the fabrics are separated. Not as
luxurious as other velvets but hardwearing,
suitable for trousers for instance.
COTTON VISCOSE fabrics May also be labelled
Cotton modal. Soft
warm lightweight
fabrics.
May also be labelled Cotton modal. Soft
warm lightweight fabrics. May be knitted or
woven; may also be slightly brushed on one
side. Wide variety of plain and printed fabrics.
Used for tops, tee shirts, casual dresses,
cardigan style jackets.
COTTON WASTE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Material removed from
seed cotton, ginned lint,
or stock in process
Material removed from seed cotton, ginned
lint, or stock in process by any cleaning or
processing machinery and usually consisting
of undesirable fibres or a mixture of cotton
fibres with foreign matter.
COTTON WAX A natural wax-like
substance present in
small quantities
A natural wax-like substance present in small
quantities on the raw cotton fibre, making it
water-resistant. It is removed by scouring
COTTON WOOL garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A fibrous product used
for medical or cosmetic
purposes
A fibrous product used for medical or
cosmetic purposes, which is made from
cotton and/or viscose.
COTTON-SPUN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A term applied to staple
yarn produced on
machinery
A term applied to staple yarn produced on
machinery of the originally developed type for
processing cotton into yarn.
COUNT IN FABRIC fabrics See Count in woven
fabric and Count in
knitted fabric
See Count in woven fabric and Count in
knitted fabric
COUNT IN KNITTED
FABRIC
fabrics The number (counted
units) of wale loops and
course loops per inch
The number (counted units) of wale loops
and course loops per inch as counted while
the fabric is held under zero tension, and is
185
Word Category Short description Description
free of folds and wrinkles
COUNT IN WOVEN
FABRIC
fabrics A measure of the end
and pick densities in a
fabric
A measure of the end and pick densities in a
fabric. The numbers of warp yarns and weft
yarns per inch as counted while the fabric is
held under zero tension, and is free of folds
and wrinkles.
COUNT OF REED fabrics The number of dents
per unit width of reed.
The number of dents per unit width of reed.
There have been many units in common use;
the recom-mended unit is dents/cm.
COUNT OF YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Yarn count,
Yarn number, Yarn
linear density and Grist.
Also called Yarn count, Yarn number, Yarn
linear density and Grist. Methods of variously
expressing the mass per unit length per unit
mass of a yarn. Expressed in simple terms, it
is, a number indicating the size and thickness
of a yarn, i.e. whether it is a coarse or fine
yarn. See also Direct yarn numbering system
and Indirect yarn numbering system.
(Compare Titre number.)
COUNT STRENGTH
PRODUCT
general See Lea count-strength
product
See Lea count-strength product
COUNTING GLASS apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Also called Linen
tester, Linen prover,
Pick counter, Pick
glass, Thread counter.
Also called Linen tester, Linen prover, Pick
counter, Pick glass, Thread counter. A
mounted magnifying glass for counting yarns
and examining weaves. The base of the
mount generally contains a unit of
measurement having an aperture one
centimetre square, one inch square or cross
shaped with various dimensions, convenient
for counting ends and picks, or courses and
wales in a fabric. Some models are available
in a folding frame type
COUPURE fabrics French for cut. French for cut. The fabric is cashmere, cut
so that lines cut through show the twill in the
lengthwise direction of the cloth.
COURSE fabrics In knitted fabrics, a row
of loops essentially
formed from one or
very few threads
running from side to
side of a weft knitted
fabric.
In knitted fabrics, a row of loops essentially
formed from one or very few threads running
from side to side of a weft knitted fabric. In
machine knitting it is the product of one
knitting cycle
COURSE DENSITY fabrics In knitted fabrics, the
number of visible loops
per unit length
In knitted fabrics, the number of visible loops
per unit length measured along a wale;
usually expressed as courses per cm
COURSE LENGTH fabrics The length of yarn in
one whole course of a
fabric with selvedges
The length of yarn in one whole course of a
fabric with selvedges, or one whole
circumference of a circular fabric. It may be
186
Word Category Short description Description
expressed as the length of yarn in a given
number of loops, usually 100, or multiples or
factors of 100.
COURTELLE fabrics Trade name for an
acrylic fibre.
Trade name for an acrylic fibre. Used alone
for clothes, carpets and blankets. It blends
well with other fibres and mixtures. Used for
all types of clothing and furnishing fabrics.
Crease-resistant, strong, washable,
unaffected by moths and mildew. See also
Acrylic.
COUTIL fabrics Strong cotton fabric
made in herringbone
weave or reverse-twist
twill weave.
Strong cotton fabric made in herringbone
weave or reverse-twist twill weave. A close
textured cloth, sometimes patterned. Used for
corsetry, tropical suiting and sometimes as a
strong lining fabric. Also called Coutille.
COUTILLE fabrics See Coutil. See Coutil.
COVER fabrics,
seams,
stitches,
A term given to woven
fabrics to indicate the
even appearance of the
fabric.
1. IN FABRICS. A term given to woven
fabrics to indicate the even appearance of the
fabric. See also Cover factor.
2. IN SEAMS. The extent to which an
overedge seam covers up the raw cut edge
of a fabric or fabrics.
3. IN YARNS. The outside layer of fibres that
form the surface of a yarn.
COVER FACTOR fabrics A measure of the
percentage area
covered by one or more
threads.
1. IN WEAVING. A measure of the
percentage area covered by one or more
threads. May be related to weft, warp or
woven fabric.
2. IN KNITTING. See Tightness factor.
COVERALL garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A one piece type of
legged workwear
A one piece type of legged workwear often
capable of being fastened at wrists and
ankles.
COVERED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A compound structure
consisting of a readily
separable core
surrounded by a wrap
or cover formed by one
or more spun or
filament yarns.
A compound structure consisting of a readily
separable core surrounded by a wrap or
cover formed by one or more spun or filament
yarns.
A yarn made by feeding one yarn under a
controlled degree of tension through the axis
or axes of one or more revolving spindles
carrying the other (wrapping) yarn(s).
COVERING processes,
operations
A printing operation in
which, a roller
engraved with a
delicate pattern, is used
for over-printing an
existing print
A printing operation in which, a roller
engraved with a delicate pattern, is used for
over-printing an existing print to obtain a
distinct subdued patterned ground.
COVERING STITCHES seams, Types of chain stitch Types of chain stitch produced on twin or
187
Word Category Short description Description
stitches produced on twin or
multi-needle machines
multi-needle machines, used for covering
seams.
COVERSTOCK fabrics A permeable fabric
used in hygiene
products
A permeable fabric used in hygiene products
to cover and contain an absorbent medium.
COVERT fabrics Lightweight to medium
weight twill fabric, for
mens overcoating in
wool or worsted
Lightweight to medium weight twill fabric, for
mens overcoating in wool or worsted. A
tightly woven fabric with a smooth finish,
traditionally made with two shades of same
colour, say, a medium and light brown, which
produce a mottled beige effect. Covert cloth
is also made in cotton, viscose and acetate
with the characteristic speckled effect, which
is lighter in weight than the overcoating and is
used for suits and raincoats
COWHIDE fabrics Leather from cowhide Leather from cowhide occasionally used for
ready-made clothes.
CRABBING processes,
operations
A wool finishing
process to prevent
creases or other forms
of uneven shrinkage in
later stages of finishing.
A wool finishing process to prevent creases
or other forms of uneven shrinkage in later
stages of finishing. The fabric is treated with
boiling water to set or fix the yarns
permanently
CRACK MARK defects Fabric defect. Also
called Broken weave,
Open place, Thin spot,
Shier
1. Fabric defect. Also called Broken weave,
Open place, Thin spot, Shier. A narrow
streak, running parallel with the warp or weft
threads, characterised mainly by the
existence of a space between two adjacent
threads. This is caused usually by
mechanical defects in the loom, such as a
loose crank-arm or crankshaft bearing,
banging-off a bent reed wire, etc.
2. Fabric defect. In bonded, fused, or
laminated fabrics, a sharp break or crease in
the surface con-tour of either the face fabric
or the backing fabric that becomes evident
when the bonded, fused, or laminated
composite is rolled, bent, draped, or folded
CRAM processes,
operations
In weaving, to place
more than the normal
number of warp ends in
one dent of the reed
In weaving, to place more than the normal
number of warp ends in one dent of the reed.
The usual purpose is to give a raised or fancy
effect. With the same object it may also be
done in the weft, to insert more picks per unit
length for a period.
CRAMPING processes,
operations
A final pressing without
heat
A final pressing without heat given in finishing
of woollen and worsted goods.
CRAPE fabrics See Crpe See Crpe
CRASH fabrics Usually linen, in plain Usually linen, in plain weave or twill, or
188
Word Category Short description Description
weave or twill, or
variations on twill, with
a rough texture due to
thick uneven yarns
used in the weft.
variations on twill, with a rough texture due to
thick uneven yarns used in the weft.
Traditionally, it is creamy beige. Mainly used
for towels, curtains and embroidery.
Mercerised brown cotton or occasionally
wool, may be used for the warp in place of
linen.
CRASH TOWEL garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under Towel. See under Towel.
CRAUA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Caroa See Caroa
CRE general See Constant Rate of
extension.
See Constant Rate of extension.
CREASE processes,
operations,
defects
A fold added
deliberately to a fabric
by pressing
1. A fold added deliberately to a fabric by
pressing, to give desirable appearance
features such as fashion rightness,
usefulness and minimum care. Should not be
confused with wrinkle. See also Pleating.
2. Fabric defect evidenced by a break, line, or
mark generally caused by a sharp fold. Also
called Mill wrinkle.
CREASE MARK defects Also called Wrinkle
mark
Also called Wrinkle mark. Fabric defect,
usually major for fashion outerwear, minor for
underwear. Defect evidenced by a break,
line, or mark in a fabric generally caused by a
sharp fold. A visible deformation left in a
fabric after a crease has been incompletely
removed during fabric processing. The
crease mark is where creases can be caused
by fabric folds in the finishing process. On
napped fabric the final pressing may not be
able to restore the fabric to original condition.
Often discoloration in the area is a problem.
CREASE RECOVERY general See Wrinkle recovery. See Wrinkle recovery.
CREASE RESIST FINISH processes,
operations
A finishing process,
mainly for cellulose
fabrics
A finishing process, mainly for cellulose
fabrics, that gives increased recovery from
creasing.
CREASE RESISTANCE general See preferred term
Wrinkle resistance.
See preferred term Wrinkle resistance.
CREASE RETENTION fabrics,
processes,
operations
That property of a
fabric, which enables it
to maintain an inserted
crease.
1. That property of a fabric, which enables it
to maintain an inserted crease.
2. The process of comparing and quantifying
the visual impression of an inserted crease
against a set of reference standards.
CREASE STREAK defects Fabric defect in tubular Fabric defect in tubular knits, usually major
189
Word Category Short description Description
knits, usually major for
fashion outerwear,
minor for underwear.
for fashion outerwear, minor for underwear. A
dyed-in mark of a crease, usually along the
length direction, of a lighter colour within the
crease area and often with edges darker than
the adjacent normal fabric. The result of
creased fabric passing through squeeze
rollers in the dyeing process.
CREEL apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A structure for
mounting supply
packages in textile
processing.
A structure for mounting supply packages in
textile processing. Yarn withdrawal may be
either over-end from stationary packages, or
unrolling from revolving packages. Usually
yarn-control, during withdrawal from the
package, is provided.
CREELING processes,
operations
The operation of filling
or refilling a creel.
The operation of filling or refilling a creel.
CREEP processes,
operations
See Delayed
deformation.
See Delayed deformation.
CRPE fabrics Term refers to any type
or weight of fabric
made with crpe yarns
either twisted or
chemically crinkled.
Term refers to any type or weight of fabric
made with crpe yarns either twisted or
chemically crinkled. A fabric characterised by
a crinkled or puckered surface. Fairly crisp
and with a springy handle. The crpe effect
may be produced in a variety of ways; by the
use of high-twist S and Z yarns, by the use of
a particular construction, or by chemical or
thrermal treatment to provide differential
shrinkage in the finished fabric. Crpes are
made from any fibre; natural, synthetic or
mixtures and blends. The main types of crpe
fabrics are:
Weft-knitted crpe: A double-faced warp-
knitted fabric, which contains more rows of
cleared stitches per unit of length on one side
than the other.
Warp-knitted crpe: An irregular surfaced
fabric either in plain or rib-based usually
constructed from knit-float or knit-tuck loops
introduced in a predetermined random order.
Woven crpe: May be produced by the use of
hard twisted S and Z direction yarns which
cause surface distortion of fabric during
finishing (e.g. Crpe de Chine, Crpon,
Marocain, Georgette, Crpe Suzette) or by
the use of particularly constructed crpe
weave-types which break up the fabric
surface into a random series of interlacings
with no visible repeat (e.g. Crpe, Oatmeal
crpe and Moss crpe).
190
Word Category Short description Description
The most common form of crpe fabric is
produced by using hard-twist weft and
ordinary warp and considerable width
shrinkage takes place during finishing. It may
be necessary to hold the fabric out in width to
prevent in contracting too much, and it can be
temporarily set in this position by drying it
while under tension. Crpe fabrics of this type
are always tested for sensitivity before use so
that heat and moisture treatments can be
controlled or even entirely eliminated.
Embossed crpe: A fabric with a pebbled or
crinkled surface. The crpe pattern is
imparted by means of passing the fabric
between heated engraved-embossing rollers,
either into a softened ther-moplastic fabric or
in combination with resin. The permanence of
the effect is governed by the fibre used and
the finish accompanying the embossing
process.
A type of crpe effect is achieved by printing
of patterns with some chemical pastes, which
cause puckering of the treated parts in the
fabric.
Crpe fabrics made from synthetic fibres,
either by embossing or by the use of different
yarns, are adequately heat-set in treatment,
so that if the normal heat-sensitivity
precautions in respect of thermoplastic fibres
are observed, unwanted shrinkage rarely
occurs. Similarly, resin-embossed vis-cose
rayon fabrics too are not troublesome in this
respect.
The crpe technique is widely used as a
variation of ordinary fabric types.
See also Crpe weave.
CRPE CHARMEUSE fabrics Rich, dull-lustred
smooth silk crpe,
which is fairly stiff, but
clings and drapes well
Rich, dull-lustred smooth silk crpe, which is
fairly stiff, but clings and drapes well. Now
usually in polyester. Used for eveningwear
CRPE CORD accessories Also called Moss cord. Also called Moss cord. A cord comprising two
to four strands, each in turn comprising a
core covered by several fine threads in an
acute helix, over-wrapped in the opposite
direction by a strong thread, giving a soft
crpe or special effect. Two or more strands
are laid together to complete the cord.
CRPE DE CHINE fabrics Pure, fine, very soft, 1. Pure, fine, very soft, luxurious silk crpe
191
Word Category Short description Description
luxurious silk crpe
fabric, originally from
China.
fabric, originally from China. Plain weave,
with a softly twisted filament warp and a very
highly twisted filament weft; alternate pairs of
weft yarns in S and Z twist. During the
finishing process the weft yarns kink and
crinkle on the fabric. Fairly crisp, matt finish
fabric with very good draping properties - due
to the softly twisted warp. May be in plain
colours or printed. It is expensive. Used for
blouses, shirts, dresses, and lingerie. It was
widely used for lingerie before the
widespread use of nylon locknit for this
purpose. A cheaper form of crpe de chine is
made from viscose rayon weft and cellulose
acetate warp, which is used for blouses and
linings.
2. Crpe fabrics made from synthetic fibres
can be almost indistinguishable from silk, and
although not strictly correct, these are usually
labelled Polyester crpe de Chine,
acetate/nylon crpe de Chine, viscose crpe
de Chine, etc
CRPE EMBOSSING processes,
operations
See Embossed crpe See Embossed crpe
CRPE GEORGETTE fabrics Sheer, dull-textured
fabric like georgette but
with a crpe surface.
Sheer, dull-textured fabric like georgette but
with a crpe surface. May be polyester,
cotton, viscose or silk. Used for blouses and
dresses
CRPE MAROCAIN fabrics Heavier type, similar to
Canton crpe.
Heavier type, similar to Canton crpe. Fibres
include polyamide, polyester, silk. Used for
evening and bridal wear.
CRPE ROMAIN fabrics Heavy, semi-sheer
crpe in 2/1 basket
weave in a dull finish
rayon.
Heavy, semi-sheer crpe in 2/1 basket weave
in a dull finish rayon. Used for evening and
bridal wear.
CRPE SUZETTE fabrics See Crpon georgette See Crpon georgette
CRPE TWIST fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Yarn with high twist Yarn with high twist used to obtain puckering
or crinkling by shrinkage, corded or other
effects.
CRPE WEAVE fabrics A weave having a
random distribution of
floats
A weave having a random distribution of
floats so as to produce an all-over effect in
the fabric to disguise the repeat.
CRPE YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A highly twisted yarn 1. A highly twisted yarn, which may be used
in the production of crpe fabrics.
2. A balanced hand-knitting yarn with a
plaited appearance produced by twisting
together 3 or 4 two-fold yarns normally using
192
Word Category Short description Description
ZSZ twists
CRPE, WOVEN fabrics See Woven crpe. See Woven crpe.
CRPE-BACK SATIN fabrics Satin weave fabric, with
crpe weft yarns, which
can be used with either
side as the right side
Satin weave fabric, with crpe weft yarns,
which can be used with either side as the
right side. Yarns are silk or polyester. Used
for eveningwear, wedding-dresses, etc.
CRPING processes,
operations
A wet treatment that
allows the relaxation of
the strain of highly
twisted crpe yarns in
fabric
A wet treatment that allows the relaxation of
the strain of highly twisted crpe yarns in
fabric and so produces a characteristic crpe
effect. Sometimes the effect is achieved also
by chemical treatment.
CRPON fabrics Crinkled fabric, often
cotton, but it may
contain some polyester
or viscose.
Crinkled fabric, often cotton, but it may
contain some polyester or viscose. Heavy
crpe effect, which usually shows in the form
of deep lengthways random crinkles, giving a
tree-bark effect. This type of fabric was
originally produced by a special weave
structure using high-shrinkage yarns - similar
to matelass but not as bold in effect. Usually
made from chemically crimped yarns, not
from crpe yarns. They are soft and
absorbent and comfortable in wear because it
gives.
Used for nightwear, blouses, softly gathered
summer dresses and mens casual shirts.
Fabrics are now produced by emboss
techniques in cheaper crpon styles
CRPON GEORGETTE fabrics Also called Crpe
Suzette.
Also called Crpe Suzette. A georgette in
which all the weft yarn has the same direction
of twist.
CRETONNE fabrics Printed or plain cotton
fabric, woven with a
fine cotton warp and a
thick weft spun from
waste cotton
Printed or plain cotton fabric, woven with a
fine cotton warp and a thick weft spun from
waste cotton. Weave may be plain or twill.
Appearance similar to chintz but does not
have a glazed treatment. Fairly inexpensive.
Used for curtains, loose covers, and
bedcovers.
CRICKETING fabrics A term for fine, twilled
flannel dress fabric
A term for fine, twilled flannel dress fabric;
used for sportswear.
CRIMP fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
accessories
The waviness of a fibre 1. IN FIBRE. The waviness of a fibre. This
fibre characteristic may be expressed
numerically as the crimp frequency or as the
difference between the lengths of the
straightened and crimped fibre, ex-pressed
as a percentage of the straightened length.
2. IN YARN. The waviness or distortion of a
yarn that is due to interlacing in the fabric. In
193
Word Category Short description Description
woven fabrics, the crimp is measured by the
relation between the length of the fabric
sample and the corre-sponding length of yarn
when it is removed therefrom and
straightened under suitable tension.
Crimp may be expressed numerically as:
(a) percentage crimp, which is 100 divided by
the fabric length and multiplied by the
difference be-tween the yarn length and the
fabric length, and
(b) crimp ratio, which is the ratio of yarn
length to the fabric length. In both methods,
the fabric length is the denominator.
3. CRIMP IN ZIPPERS. In continuous-
element zipper, the predetermined formation
of the monofila-ment cross-section at the
point where the continuous element is
interlocked.
CRIMP BALANCE fabrics A state in a fabric when
the crimp in both warp
and weft are equal.
A state in a fabric when the crimp in both
warp and weft are equal.
CRIMP CONTRACTION fibers,
filaments,
yarns
An indicator of crimp
capacity
An indicator of crimp capacity or a
characterisation of a yarns ability to contract
under tension.
CRIMP ENERGY general The amount of effort
required to uncrimp a
fibre.
The amount of effort required to uncrimp a
fibre.
CRIMP FACTOR general A factor, which
expresses the length
change, caused by
crimping.
A factor, which expresses the length change,
caused by crimping.
CRIMP FREQUENCY general The crimp level The crimp level or number of crimps per inch
in yarn or tow band.
CRIMP INTERCHANGE processes,
operations
The transfer of crimp
from warp to weft or
vice versa
The transfer of crimp from warp to weft or
vice versa
CRIMP LATENT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A crimp that is
potentially present in
specially prepared
fibres or filaments
A crimp that is potentially present in specially
prepared fibres or filaments and that can be
developed by a specific treatment such as
thermal relaxation or tensioning and
subsequent relaxation.
CRIMP RECOVERY fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A measure of the ability
of a yarn
A measure of the ability of a yarn to return to
its original crimped state after being
subjected to tension.
CRIMP STABILITY general The ability of a textuted
yarn to resist the
reduction of its crimp
The ability of a textuted yarn to resist the
reduction of its crimp by mechanical and or
thermal stress.
194
Word Category Short description Description
CRIMP TESTER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A device consisting of
two clamps that can
trap each end of a
crimped piece of
thread.
A device consisting of two clamps that can
trap each end of a crimped piece of thread.
The clamps are slid apart until a certain
loading is achieved, and the length of the
thread is then ascertained. The crimp tester
is used in the analysis of knitted fabrics, to
measure the course length and loop length.
CRIMP, LATENT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Latent crimp See Latent crimp
CRIMPED LENGTH fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Fibre length See under Fibre length
CRIMPED LOOP RUCHE accessories See under Ruche. See under Ruche.
CRIMPED VISCOSE
FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Modified viscose fibre. Modified viscose fibre. Viscose fibres, which
are crimped deeply and permanently during
manufacture so that the crimp is actually
built-in. These fibres have a wool-like texture
and bulky warm handling,
CRIMPED VISCOSE
TWILL
fabrics Bulked viscose yarn
woven into plain colour
fabric of medium
weight.
Bulked viscose yarn woven into plain colour
fabric of medium weight. Bulking adds
warmth. Fabric creases slightly. Has a soft
feel rather like flannelette. Used for childrens
clothes, nightwear.
CRIMPED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A thermoplastic
textured yarn having
relatively low elastic
stretch
1. A thermoplastic textured yarn having
relatively low elastic stretch usually under 20
% and fre-quently characterised by high saw-
tooth type crimp, or curl.
2. A non-thermoplastic yarn having irregular
crimp and relatively high elastic stretch but
low power contraction
CRINKLE fabrics,
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A wrinkled or puckered
effect in fabric
A wrinkled or puckered effect in fabric, which
may be obtained in a number of ways, either
in the construction of the cloth or in finishing.
Sometimes used to describe the waviness of
a spinning fibre such as rayon staple.
CRINKLE CRPE fabrics See Pliss. See Pliss.
CRINOLINE fabrics A stiff and loosely
woven fabric, similar to
buckram, with cotton
warp and horsehair
weft.
A stiff and loosely woven fabric, similar to
buckram, with cotton warp and horsehair
weft. May now be produced from synthetic
fibre and stiffened. Made usually in white,
grey and black. Used as an interfacing or
stiffening material for hats.
CRISP FINISH processes,
operations
Treatment of sheer
fabrics with
thermosetting resins
Treatment of sheer fabrics with thermosetting
resins, which gives a crisp handle and
transparency. Employed on organdie and
also on rayon and nylon sheer.
195
Word Category Short description Description
CRITICAL APPLICATION
VALUE
general In a low wet-pickup
easy-care finishing
system
In a low wet-pickup easy-care finishing
system, the CAV is the amount of finishing
liquor, which must be applied to a given fabric
to avoid a non-uniform distribution of cross-
linking after drying and curing.
CRITICAL DEFECT defects See under Defect. See under Defect.
CRITICAL DEFECTS IN
GARMENT
defects See under Garment
defects.
See under Garment defects.
CRITICAL PRESSING processes,
operations
Pressing of the
garments prior to the
deferred cure process.
Pressing of the garments prior to the deferred
cure process. Accurate, automatic controls
for steam, heat, and pressure is needed to
make a neat and good-looking garment. If a
crease is not good pressed flat and sharp
before curing, it will not be sharp and flat after
curing. If wrinkles are pressed in by mistake,
they will later be cured and cannot be
removed.
CRL general See Constant Rate of
loading.
See Constant Rate of loading.
CROA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Caroa See Caroa
CROCHET KNITTED
FABRIC
fabrics See under Knitted
fabrics.
See under Knitted fabrics.
CROCHET KNITTING processes,
operations
Fancy openwork knit in
a variety of colours and
patterns, often
produced in traditional
designs, e.g. Aran.
Fancy openwork knit in a variety of colours
and patterns, often produced in traditional
designs, e.g. Aran. The fabric resembles
crochet but is made on a knitting machine,
which works on the same principle as Rashel
machines; however, they are narrower and
the needles are generally horizontal. Mainly
made from acrylic, but may be made from
any man-made fibre. Used for sweaters,
shirts, dresses, braids, trims and scarves.
See also Knitting.
CROCKING processes,
operations,
defects
The transfer of colour
from the surface of a
coloured yarn or fabric
to an adjacent area of
the same fabric or to
another surface
principally by rubbing
action.
The transfer of colour from the surface of a
coloured yarn or fabric to an adjacent area of
the same fabric or to another surface
principally by rubbing action. If unintentional it
is considered a defect. (Compare Colour
staining.)
CROCKMETER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Instrument for testing
colourfastness to
crocking or rubbing..
Instrument for testing colourfastness to
crocking or rubbing. White cloth on a
weighted projecting finger is rubbed over the
surface of dyed or printed material. Amount
196
Word Category Short description Description
of colour transfer is compared with standard
evaluation scales.
CROCODILE fabrics The skin of crocodile
characterised by its
square boxy markings.
The skin of crocodile characterised by its
square boxy markings. Can be distinguished
from alligator by the fact that the markings
are more uneven. Difficult to tan. Very
expensive and used for top quality shoes and
handbags.
CROCODOLITE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Based on its chemical
nature, asbetos is
classified into chysolite
and crocodolite.
Based on its chemical nature, asbetos is
classified into chysolite and crocodolite. The
chemical description of crocodolite is iron
silicate. Geographical source; South Africa
and Australia.
CROFTING processes,
operations
Also called Grassing Also called Grassing. Exposing linen on
grass after bowking in order to bleach it.
CROOKED CLOTH defects See Wavy cloth See Wavy cloth
CROPPED TERRY PILE fabrics See under Velour. See under Velour.
CROPPING processes,
operations
Also called Shearing. Also called Shearing. A dry-finishing
operation used usually on all woolen and
worsted goods to cut away or level the fibre
pile or nap, which has previously been raised.
CROSS BORDER
DOBBY
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A dobby that may be
controlled by any one
of two or more pattern
chains
A dobby that may be controlled by any one of
two or more pattern chains for the purpose of
weaving borders or hems across the fabric.
CROSS LAPPING processes,
operations
Also called Cross
laying.
Also called Cross laying. The production of a
nonwoven web or batt from a fibre-web by
traversing it to and fro across a conveyor
moving at right angles to the direction of
traverse.
CROSS LAYING fabrics See Cross lapping See Cross lapping
CROSS POCKET garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A pocket, which lies
horizontally or at an
oblique angle from the
horizontal.
A pocket, which lies horizontally or at an
oblique angle from the horizontal. In trousers,
the pocket mouth can run from the waistband
on the front to a point on the side seam.
CROSS SECTION general The shape or shapes
which could be seen if
the fibres, yarn or fabric
were cut across their
length
The shape or shapes which could be seen if
the fibres, yarn or fabric were cut across their
length and viewed in or under a microscope.
CROSS STITCH seams,
stitches,
defects
A hand stitch, the
formation of which
begins on the left and
consists in passing the
needle alternately on
and off the edge slightly
1. A hand stitch, the formation of which
begins on the left and consists in passing the
needle alternately on and off the edge slightly
through the material and in advance of the
last stitch. Used as a substitute for felling or
for ornamentation of raw edges.
197
Word Category Short description Description
through the material
and in advance of the
last stitch.
2. Defect. See Pinhole.
CROSS STRIPES fabrics A trade term for stripes A trade term for stripes, which run in the
direction of the weft.
CROSS-BACK WIDTH garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Also called Shearing. Garment-related term. See under Garment
sizing system..
CROSS-BALL WARPING processes,
operations
See under Warping. See under Warping.
CROSS-BLENDED
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A single yarn spun from
a blend or mixture of
different kinds of fibres,
A single yarn spun from a blend or mixture of
different kinds of fibres, e.g. Wool and rayon
staple, cotton and acetate staple or wool and
cotton staple.
CROSS-CHEST WIDTH garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See under Garment
sizing system.
CROSS-DYE EFFECT processes,
operations,
defects
See Cross-dyeing 1. See Cross-dyeing
2. Fabric defect. Variation in shade of colour
on textile material caused by accidental mix-
up of fi-bres having inherently different dye
affinities (or dye pick-up) between fibres. See
also Dye affinity, Dye pick-up and Union
dyeing
CROSS-DYEING processes,
operations
A process of dyeing
textiles containing
fibres having inherently
different dye affinities
A process of dyeing textiles containing fibres
having inherently different dye affinities (or
dye pick-up) between fibres, to achieve a
multicoloured effect. Also it can be a dyeing
operation in which one fibre in a mixture is
dyed although the others remain substantially
unchanged.
CROSS-LINKED
CELLULOSE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Modified cellulose,
which has been
prepared by the
formation of chemical
bonds between the
individual cellulose
molecules.
Modified cellulose, which has been prepared
by the formation of chemical bonds between
the individual cellulose molecules. When
cotton is cross-linked, it becomes wrinkle
resistant and smooth drying.
CROSS-LINKING processes,
operations
The creation of
chemical bonds
between polymer
molecules to form a
three-dimensional
polymeric network
The creation of chemical bonds between
polymer molecules to form a three-
dimensional polymeric network, e.g. in a fibre
or in a pigment binder. This generally restricts
swelling and alters elastic recovery.
CROSS-LINKING AGENT A resin or chemical that
reacts with a fibre
producing an
A resin or chemical that reacts with a fibre
producing an indisoluble bond. When cured
in the cloth, it gives the fabric a memory of its
198
Word Category Short description Description
indisoluble bond. cured form whether shaped or flat. See
Memory and Curing.
CROSS-TUCK, PLAIN,
WEFT-KNITTED
fabrics A plain weft-knitted
fabric, in which the
construction is based
on a repeat of either
two or multiples of two
courses.
A plain weft-knitted fabric, in which the
construction is based on a repeat of either
two or multiples of two courses. The original
construction consisted of knitted loops and
single-course tuck stitches arranged to give
two-course tuck-stitch, where the tuck loops
alternated with knitted loops within each
course and between one course and another.
Other constructions incorporate two or more
course tuck stitches, where the tuck loops
alternate with knitted loops within the course
and between one course and another. Whole
courses of knitted loops may be interspaced
between the courses of tuck and knitted
loops
CROSS-TUCK, RIB,
WEFT-KNITTED
fabrics A weft-knitted 1x1 rib
fabric, the construction
of which is based on a
repeat of either two
courses or multiples of
two courses.
A weft-knitted 1x1 rib fabric, the construction
of which is based on a repeat of either two
courses or multiples of two courses. When
the fabric is produced on a latch-needle rib
machine, the needles of one bed are used to
form single-or multi-course tuck stitches and
knitted loops alternately, whilst the needles of
the other bed knit continuously. A complete
course of knitted loops may be interspaced
between the courses containing tuck and knit
loops
CROSS-TUCK, WEFT-
KNITTED
fabrics A generic name used to
describe either plain or
rib weft-knitted fabrics
A generic name used to describe either plain
or rib weft-knitted fabrics, in which the
construction repeats on a minimum of two
courses and where tuck loops alternate with
knitted loops within a course and between
one course and another.
CROSSBAR fabrics A fabric design made
with cords
A fabric design made with cords at regular
intervals in both warp and weft to produce a
checkerboard pattern
CROSSBRED fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A term applied loosely
to wool, tops, yarns or
fabrics
A term applied loosely to wool, tops, yarns or
fabrics produced from wools of medium
quality.
CROSSBRED WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Wool See under Wool
CROSSED TWILLS fabrics A term for the effect
produced by
intersecting twill
weaves.
A term for the effect produced by intersecting
twill weaves.
199
Word Category Short description Description
CROSSING defects See Cobwebbing. See Cobwebbing.
CROSSWISE FOLD fabrics The crease in a fabric The crease in a fabric produced by folding
the cloth crosswise.
CROTCH garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See Crutch 1. See Crutch.
2. Garment-related term. See under Garment
sizing system
CROTCH HEIGHT garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related term Garment-related term. See under Garment
sizing system.
CROW fabrics A twill weave in which
the warp or weft
predominates
A twill weave in which the warp or weft
predominates, e.g. three up and one down
(warp crow) or one down and three up (weft
crow).
CROW TWILL fabrics A 3/1 warp twill
generally used on wool
and worsted fabrics.
Also called Broken crow and Crow weave. A
3/1 warp twill generally used on wool and
worsted fabrics.
CROW WEAVE fabrics See Crow twill See Crow twill
CROWS FEET processes,
operations,
defects
a puckering effect 1. IN KNITTING, a puckering effect, usually in
the heel or toe of circular-knitted hosiery and
generally associated with the suture line.
2. FABRIC DEFECT. Fabric breaks, fine
wrinkles, staining of varying degrees of
intensity, size, and shape, occurring during
the wet processing of fabrics.
CROWFOOT fabrics A small colour-and-
weave effect in a fabric
1. A small colour-and-weave effect in a fabric,
produced by a combination of a matt weave
and a specific order of colouring in warp and
weft (e.g. 2/2 matt weave and 4 and 4 order
of colouring; 3/3 matt weave and 6 and 6
order of colouring, etc.)
2. A broken-twill weave 1-up and 3-down or
3-up and 1-down with two ends to the right
and two ends to the left, commonly referred
to as Four-harness satin and Broken crow.
CROWN garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See under Garment
sizing system
CROWNS fabrics Those points on the
surface of a woven
fabric, which protrude.
Those points on the surface of a woven
fabric, which protrude.
CROZE MARKS defects Crease marks Crease marks which may be produced during
wet treatments of hoods or bodies, e.g. in
dyeing
CRT general See Constant rate of
traverse.
See Constant rate of traverse.
CRUSH RESISTANCE processes, Application of a finish Application of a finish on pile fabrics, such as
200
Word Category Short description Description
operations on pile fabrics, such as
corduroy or velvet
corduroy or velvet, to improve the ability of
the pile to spring back to its original shape
after being subjected to crushing or pressure.
CRUTCH garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Also called as Crotch
and Fork.
Also called as Crotch and Fork. In garments,
the region between the legs at which inside
leg seams are joined.
CRUTCHINGS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Badly discoloured wool
removed from belly
areas
Badly discoloured wool removed from belly
areas, being of low value.
CSP v See Count strength product.
CRYSTAL YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A flat film acetate yarn. A flat film acetate yarn.
CRYSTALLINE AREAS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Those areas in a fibre
where the molecules
are regularly packed
Those areas in a fibre where the molecules
are regularly packed
CRYSTALLINITY fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The degree, to which
fibre molecules are
parallel to each other,
The degree, to which fibre molecules are
parallel to each other, though not necessarily
to the longitudinal fibre axis.
CUFF garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
In garment, the lower
part of the sleeve
In garment, the lower part of the sleeve,
which at the wrist usually has a plain turned
in edge. If turned up it may be described as
Gauntlet cuff.
CUP SEAMING seams,
stitches
J oining two pieces of
knitted fabric on a
selvedge-to-selvedge
basis
J oining two pieces of knitted fabric on a
selvedge-to-selvedge basis by means of a
chain stitch produced on a sewing machine in
which the fabrics are moved forward between
revolving feed cups. See Linking.
CUPRAMMONIUM
RAYON
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Cupro fibre is described
also as cuprammonium
rayon to distinguish it
from viscose rayon.
Cupro fibre is described also as
cuprammonium rayon to distinguish it from
viscose rayon.
CUPRO FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Official designation for
rayon produced by the
cuprammonium
method.
Also called Cuprammonium rayon. Official
designation for rayon produced by the
cuprammonium method. The term has now
come into widespread use throughout the
world to denote any regenerated cellulose
fibre produced by the cuprammonium
process. It is in general, more expensive than
other man-made cellulosic yarns. Very soft
silky fibre characterised by extra fineness and
strength, attractive handle, subdued lustre
and good draping properties. Cupro is the
most silk-like of all cellulosic yarns.
CURING processes,
operations
Application of heat
(usually 140 C and
above), on fabrics
which have been
Application of heat (usually 140 C and
above), on fabrics which have been treated
with resin-forming or other chemicals, or of
synthetic fabrics alone, to impart properties
201
Word Category Short description Description
treated with resin-
forming or other
chemicals, or of
synthetic fabrics alone,
to impart properties
such as crease-
retention, water-
repellency, wrinkle
resistance, dimensional
stability and durable
press.
such as crease-retention, water-repellency,
wrinkle resistance, dimensional stability and
durable press. Heat treatment for several
minutes is usual, but higher temperatures for
short times (flash-curing) and long times at
low temperatures and higher regain (moist
curing) are also used. If properly cured, the
fabric has qualities that are durable through
many washings and dry cleanings.
CURING TAPE accessories A woven narrow fabric,
usually a twill
A woven narrow fabric, usually a twill, used in
the rubber hose industry to stabilise the
dimensions of flexible tubes during hot
processing. To facilitate helical wrapping,
most curing tapes have a coloured central
guideline. The diameter of the hose
determines the width of the tape used. .
CURL defects See Kink-in See Kink-in
CURLED PILE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under Pile, in
carpet.
See under Pile, in carpet.
CURLED SELVEDGE defects Also called Double
selvedge, Turned-over
edge, Folded selvedge
and Rolled selvedge.
Also called Double selvedge, Turned-over
edge, Folded selvedge and Rolled selvedge.
Fabric defect. Self-descriptive. There can be
many reasons for this defect, such as weft
yarn with too much twist in it, an improperly
set warp beam (or one that is not set at
proper tension under weights), an uneven
warp tension, a faulty or uneven weave
repeat, etc.
CURLED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Loop yarn. Also called Loop yarn. A type of fancy yarn,
so constructed or treated, or both, as to
produce a pile with a curled effect when used
in a suitable fabric construction.
CURLY COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A term used for
defective cotton
A term used for defective cotton, the result of
ginning when too damp thus making it
stringy.
CURTAIN MACHINE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See under Lace
machines
See under Lace machines
CURTAINS garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Hanging drape. 1. Hanging drape.
2. In trousers, pieces of fabric, usually lining,
put across the top of the undersides under
the waist-band from side seam to seat seam
CURVED TWILL WEAVE fabrics A class of twill weave
producing wavy twill
Also called Undulating twill weaves. A class
of twill weave producing wavy twill lines by
202
Word Category Short description Description
lines by arrangements
of the steep and/or
reclining twill to fine
curved effects.
arrangements of the steep and/or reclining
twill to fine curved effects. The weaves may
run in only one direction or may reverse. Any
twill weave may be used as a basis but the
same must be used throughout the design.
Used mainly for fancy striped cotton fabrics.
CUSHION DOT fabrics A brush-like dot, that is
larger and puffier than
polka dot in
marquisette fabric
A brush-like dot, that is larger and puffier than
polka dot in marquisette fabric. Made by one
or more roving yarns, which are woven into
the material and then cut close to the surface.
.
CUT fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
an indirect yarn
numbering system
1. IN ASBESTOS AND GLASS YARNS. The
number of 100 yard lengths of yarn per
pound; an indirect yarn numbering system.
2. IN WOOL YARNS. The number of 300
yard lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect
yarn numbering system.
3. IN WOVEN FABRIC. A length of fabric;
may vary according to type of cloth, seller,
packing and shipping conditions.
4. IN KNITTING. An American term for
Gauge.
CUT CRIMPED RUCHE accessories See under Ruche. See under Ruche.
CUT LISTING defects See Cut selvedge. See Cut selvedge.
CUT MARK processes,
operations
An indication on a
weavers warp of a
precise length of
material
An indication on a weavers warp of a precise
length of material, generally a piece length or
a fraction of a piece length.
CUT PICK defects See Broken pick. See Broken pick.
CUT PILE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under Pile, in
carpet.
See under Pile, in carpet.
CUT PILE FLOOR
COVERING
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A pile floor covering A pile floor covering in which the pile is
composed of tufts in the form of cut loops.
CUT RUCHE accessories See under Ruche. See under Ruche.
CUT SELVEDGE defects Also called Bad listing,
Broken selvedge, Cut
listing, Damaged
selvedge and Rippled
selvedge. Fabric
defect.
Also called Bad listing, Broken selvedge, Cut
listing, Damaged selvedge and Rippled
selvedge. Fabric defect. Cuts or breaks that
occur in the selvedge only.
CUT SHAPED STITCH
GARMENT
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See Stitch shaped cut
garment.
See Stitch shaped cut garment.
CUT STAPLE fibers, An inferior cotton fibre, An inferior cotton fibre, which has been
203
Word Category Short description Description
filaments,
yarns
which has been
accidentally cut during
ginning
accidentally cut during ginning due to the
fibre being too damp. Sometimes used
improperly to describe staple of man-made
textile, especially rayon staple.
CUT WEFT defects See Chopped weft. See Chopped weft.
CUT WORK processes,
operations
A general term for
design made by cutting.
A general term for design made by cutting.
Specifically, an embroidery in which the
material is cut away and the spaces partly
filled with loops and stitches.
CUT, MAKE AND TRIM processes,
operations
See CMT. See CMT.
CUT-LOOP PILE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under Pile, in
carpet.
See under Pile, in carpet.
CUT-OFF accessories,
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
one or more ends, in
plain or rib weave
1. IN FABRICS, one or more ends, in plain or
rib weave, which separate and highlight the
division be-tween the edge and body weave
in a ribbon. Also called Binder.
2. IN ZIPPERS, the measurement of a
separate element from the head side to the
pocket side of the legs
CUTICLE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The surface layer of
animal hair fibres
The surface layer of animal hair fibres,
consisting of flat overlapping scales.
CUTTING defects Defect in knitted
fabrics, caused by the
cutting of yarn
Defect in knitted fabrics, caused by the
cutting of yarn by the knitting elements during
stitch formation and the subsequent opening
of the stitches due to imposed tensions. See
also Bursting.
CUTTING DEFECTS IN
GARMENT
defects See under Garment
defects, classified.
See under Garment defects, classified.
CUTTING OFF-GRAIN processes,
operations
Cutting not in line with
the grain.
Cutting not in line with the grain.
CUTTING ON THE
CROSS
processes,
operations
Sometimes also called
Bias cut.
Sometimes also called Bias cut. Cutting
across the grain.
CUTTING STRAIGHT
GRAIN
processes,
operations
Cutting with the grain Cutting with the grain
CUTTLED processes,
operations
Fabric folded, instead
of rolled
Fabric folded, instead of rolled. With fine
fabrics cuttling does not cause the slight
unevenness in tension at the selvedges,
which results from rolling.
CUTTLING processes,
operations
To place fabric in loose
transverse folds,
usually in open width.
1. To place fabric in loose transverse folds,
usually in open width.
2. To fold finished fabric down the middle and
place it in transverse folds or pre-determined
length.
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Word Category Short description Description
CV fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
general
See Cyanoethylated
cotton.
1. See Cyanoethylated cotton.
2. See Coefficient of variation.
CV % o See Coefficient of variation
unevenness.
CYANOETHYLATED
COTTON
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Chemically modified
cotton goods pro
Also called CV. Chemically modified cotton
goods pro
CYCLE LENGTH accessories In braided rope In braided rope, the length along the axis
required for a strand to make one revolution
around the rope.
CYLINDER BED apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In sewing machine, a
cylindrically shaped
bed mounted
horizontally above the
surface of the table
In sewing machine, a cylindrically shaped
bed mounted horizontally above the surface
of the table to facilitate the handling and
sewing of tubular articles.
CYLINDER PRINTING processes,
operations
See Roller printing. See Roller printing.

D

Word Category
Short
description
Description
D AND K fabrics Term stands for
damaged and
kept
Term stands for damaged and
kept, and denotes lengths of
fabrics spoilt in processing.
D AND T YARN fibers, filaments,
yarns
See Double and
twist yarn
See Double and twist yarn
DACCA MUSLIN fabrics A very fine,
extremely light,
cotton muslin
from Dacca
A very fine, extremely light,
cotton muslin from Dacca.
Made from cotton grown locally,
it is very famous
DACRON fibers, filaments,
yarns
Trade name for
a polyester fibre.
Trade name for a polyester
fibre. It blends well with other
fibres, can be bleached and
takes dye well. Used mainly in
the manufacture of clothing,
curtaining, furnishings, and
fillings for pillows and quilts.
Washes well and drips dry, as
the fibre does not absorb
moisture.
A variety of types are developed
to meet divergent needs; like, a
low-pill fibre meant for light
fabrics, thin wadding fibre
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Word Category
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description
Description
suitable for padded clothes, a
very fine weft fibre for
sportswear and leisurewear
fabrics, etc.
DAGGER FIBRE fibers, filaments,
yarns
A fibre obtained
from the dagger
plant
A fibre obtained from the
dagger plant, a name for
several species of yucca.
DAMAGE defects Defect on fabric Defect on fabric caused by (a)
corrosive chemicals coming in
contact with it, (b) mechanical
injuries like holes, tears, or cuts,
(c) miniature holes in the fabric,
(d) poor yarn twisting, (e)
unduly heavy threads and (f)
abrasion on knots
DAMAGED AND
KEPT
fabrics See D and K. See D and K.
DAMAGED
SELVEDGE
defects See Cut
selvedge
See Cut selvedge
DAMASK fabrics Very old type of
figured fabric,
first made of silk
in Damascus.
Very old type of figured fabric,
first made of silk in Damascus.
Elaborately woven on jacquard
loom, the fabric has satin floats
on a warp satin background; the
surface design runs in the
opposite direction from those in
the background. Now it is a
figured fabric made with one
warp and one weft in which,
generally, warp-satin and weft-
sateen weaves are used. Made
in different fibres and weights.
Used mostly for furnishings,
table linen, towels. Rarely found
now as a dress fabric. Most
damask is self-toned, i.e. the
warp and weft are in same
colour; the design creates the
interest. Linen makes the most
elegant and hardwearing
tablecloths, as it may be boiled,
starched and given a high gloss
with the iron. Cotton and
viscose damask is not as
hardwearing. Most damasks
crease readily. The closer the
texture the more hardwearing it
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Word Category
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description
Description
will be.
DAMASQUTTE fabrics A damask A damask woven with more
than one weft to provide extra
colour.
DAMASSIN fabrics Brocade or
damask fabric
Brocade or damask fabric with
gold or silver patterns woven
into it.
DAMP DRY processes,
operations
Term used to
describe laundry
Term used to describe laundry
when it has been removed from
an automatic washer with the
right moisture condition for
ironing
DAMPING CLOTH fabrics A piece of
absorbent fabric
A piece of absorbent fabric
which is wetted and laid over a
garment during pressing. This
increases the humidity in that
area and prevents the formation
of gloss on some fabrics.
DAMPING
MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage, tools
A machine used
for damping
wool textiles
A machine used for damping
wool textiles during finishing.
DARNING processes,
operations
See Mending See Mending
DART garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A wedge shape
removed from
the surface area
of a garment
A wedge shape removed from
the surface area of a garment
by stitching or alternatively by
cutting and stitching
DARTMOOR fibers, filaments,
yarns
Hardy wool from
British mountain
sheep
Hardy wool from British
mountain sheep. It is rather free
from kemp
DB garments, made-
ups, assemblies
See Double
breasted
See Double breasted
DE-AERATION processes,
operations
The removal of
all undissolved
gases
The removal of all undissolved
gases and part of the dissolved
gases (chiefly air) from spinning
solutions prior to extrusion
DE-SKILLED
MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage, tools
Any machine
which has been
re-engineered in
such a way, that
the operators
job, demand
lesser skill
Any machine which has been
re-engineered in such a way,
that the operators job, demand
lesser skill with regard to the
earlier models of the machine.
DEACETYLATED
ACETATE FIBRE
fibers, filaments,
yarns
A manufactured
fibre of
A manufactured fibre of
regenerated cellulose obtained
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Word Category
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description
Description
regenerated
cellulose
by almost complete
deacetylation of a cellulose
acetate.
DEAD COLOURS defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Decorations or
motifs that have been
deadened, killed, or subdued
during the scouring, or other
more or less rigid treatments in
finishing.
DEAD COTTON fibers, filaments,
yarns,defects
immature,
undeveloped
cotton fibres,
Small neps of
cotton fibres
1. FIBRE. General term used
for immature, undeveloped
cotton fibres. May cause
increased nep-piness on the
fabric and also may cause
uneven dyeing. May show up as
undyed specks, due to poor dye
affinity.
2. FABRIC DEFECT. Small
neps of cotton fibres which are
gathered on the surface of the
fabric and which are different in
colour from the surrounding
fabric.
DEAD FIBRE fibers, filaments,
yarns
See under
Cotton maturity
See under Cotton maturity
DEAD TWIST fibers, filaments,
yarns
See Set twist. See Set twist.
DEAD WOOL fibers, filaments,
yarns
Also called
Fallen wool.
Also called Fallen wool. Wool
taken from the sheep that has
died from natural causes. See
also Skin wool.
DECALCOMANIE processes,
operations
An old form of
lithographic
printing, for
embroidery
transfers.
An old form of lithographic
printing, for embroidery
transfers. The design was
transferred from the tissue
paper on which it was printed,
usually by ironing. Thick
enamel-like pigments were
employed for printing
DECATING processes,
operations
Also called
Decatizing. A
finishing process
applied to
fabrics to set the
material,
enhance lustre
Also called Decatizing. A
finishing process applied to
fabrics to set the material,
enhance lustre and improve the
hand. The cloth is wound
around a perforated drum,
between layers of a blanket and
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Word Category
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description
Description
and improve the
hand.
steam passed through from the
inside to outside layers. Then
the action is then reversed. On
completion of treatment, the
steam removed by vacuum
pump. This process helps to
overcome uneven or blotchy
dyeing
DECATING MARK defects Also called
Apron mark,
Leader mark.
Fabric defect.
Also called Apron mark, Leader
mark. Fabric defect. A crease
mark or impression extending
weftwise across the cloth near
the beginning or end of the
piece, caused by the thickness
of the fabric leader seam
DECATIZING processes,
operations
See Decating See Decating
DECK-CHAIR
CANVAS
fabrics A fabric in plain,
repp, or twill
weave
A fabric in plain, repp, or twill
weave, made of vegetable or
man-made fibres, or a
combination of any of these
fibres. Traditionally, of width not
more than 500 mm and weight
not less than 185 g/m2
DECLARED
COMPOSITION
general The nominal
composition of a
mixture of textile
materials
The nominal composition of a
mixture of textile materials,
used for labelling and invoicing
purposes and, where
appropriate, for the calculation
of the weighted commercial
allowance or weighted moisture
regain of the mixture
DECOLOURISE processes,
operations
The process of
stripping colour
from fabrics
The process of stripping colour
from fabrics.
DECORTICATING processes,
operations
Process of
removing the
woody, pithy
matter
Process of removing the woody,
pithy matter from bast fibre by
mechanical means. See
Retting.
DECRIMPING processes,
operations
The removal of
crimp
The removal of crimp
DECRYSTALLISED
COTTON
processes,
operations
Cotton
impregnated
with anhydrous
liquid
ethylamine.
Cotton impregnated with
anhydrous liquid ethylamine.
This lowers the cottons
crystallinity. It is not a chemical
treatment in the sense that
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Word Category
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description
Description
there is any chemical change in
the cotton. The change is in the
degree of order of the cellulose
molecules and in their spacial
relationships to each other. The
treatment opens up the
structure of the cellulose in
cotton and it improves its
absorbency and dyeability
DEEP DYEING fibers, filaments,
yarns
A property of
fibres modified
A property of fibres modified so
as to have greater uptake of
dyes than normal fibres.
DEEP PINNING defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect.. Conspicuous pin
marks of stenter appearing in
the body of the fabric and so
reducing the usable width of the
fabric. The defect is often
caused by incorrect feed on to a
pin stenter.
DEEP-TEXTURED
FABRICS
fabrics Three-
dimensional
effects in cloth
Three-dimensional effects in
cloth achieved by (1) thick and
thin yarns (curled, looped,
slubbed); (b) combination of
weaves; (c) choice of colour
and colour blends.
DEFECT defects A fault that
would reduce
the expected
performance of
a textile material
A fault that would reduce the
expected performance of a
textile material or, if it appeared
in a prominent position in a
textile article, would readily be
seen and rejected by a
prospective pur-chaser.
Critical defect: A defect, which
could result in hazardous or
unsafe conditions for individuals
using or maintaining the product
as well as defects contravening
legal regulations.
Major defect: A defect, if
conspicuous by its severity or
location or both on the textile
material, and that would cause
the material to be a second.
Minor defect: A defect, WHICH
that would not cause the textile
material to be a second either
because of severity or location.
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Word Category
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description
Description
DEFECTIVE
PLATING
defects Defect in knitted
fabric.
Defect in knitted fabric. The
appearance, on the face side of
a fabric, of the wrong one or two
yarns knitted simultaneously at
a feeder. It is usually caused by
poorly differentiated feed
heights or tension during
plating.
DEFERRED CURE processes,
operations
One method of
fixing (curing)
the cross-linking
chemical in the
fabric after the
garment is made
and pressed.
Also called Post cure. One
method of fixing (curing) the
cross-linking chemical in the
fabric after the garment is made
and pressed. One form is
known as permanent press or
durable press. In this process, a
memory is given to the garment
as sewn and pressed. As a
result of this treatment, the
shape of the garment is locked
out. Therefore, seams stay flat
and neat, and the texture of the
fabric remains smooth after
repeated washings. No ironing
is needed. Hence, fabrics with
durable press are truly wash-
and-wear.
DEFINITION general Sharpness or
clearness of a
print
Sharpness or clearness of a
print and how well the design
stands out.
DEFOLIATION processes,
operations
Chemically
treating cotton
plants
Chemically treating cotton
plants to make them shed their
leaves.
DEFORMATION processes,
operations
A change in
shape of a
material caused
by forces of
compression,
shear, tension,
or torsion
A change in shape of a material
caused by forces of
compression, shear, tension, or
torsion. See also Immediate
elastic deformation, Delayed
deformation and Permanent
deformation.
DEGRADATION processes,
operations
A deleterious
change in
properties of a
textile.
A deleterious change in
properties of a textile. The
decomposition of fibres by such
means as heat, light, chemicals
and nuclear radiation
DEGREASED
WOOL
fibers, filaments,
yarns
Wool from which
foreign matter
have been
Wool from which yolk, suint,
and other foreign matter have
been removed by the naptha
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Word Category
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description
Description
removed method.
DEGREASING processes,
operations
The removal of
natural fats,
waxes, oil, and
dirt from any
textile material
1. The removal of natural fats,
waxes, oil, and dirt from any
textile material by means of an
or-ganic solvent.
2. The removal of grease, suint,
and extraneous matter from
wool by an aqueous or solvent
pro-cess.
DEGREE OF
CRYSTALLINITY
seams, stitches The amount by
weight
The amount by weight,
expressed as a percentage, of a
linear polymer which is present
in a crystalline form, the rest of
the polymer being in an
amorphous state.
DEGREE OF
ORIENTATION
fibers, filaments,
yarns
The extent to
which the fibre
molecules lie in
the direction of
the fibre length.
The extent to which the fibre
molecules lie in the direction of
the fibre length.
DEGREE OF
POLYMERISATION
Also called DP. Also called DP. The average
number of repeating units in the
individual macromolecules in a
polymer.
DEGUMMING processes,
operations
The removal of
sericin (silk
gum) from silk
yarns or fabrics
The removal of sericin (silk
gum) from silk yarns or fabrics
by a controlled, hot, mildly
alkaline treatment intended to
have little or no effect on the
underlying fibroin.
DELAINE fabrics Lightweight plain
weave wool
fabric
Lightweight plain weave wool
fabric, made from good quality
botany worsted yarns. Soft
finished and usually printed,
used for dresses. Rather
expensive
DELAV fabrics Denim fabric
with faded-
effect.
Denim fabric with faded-effect.
Term may be used instead of
washed out to describe jeans
made from this fabric
DELAYED
DEFORMATION
processes,
operations
Also called
Creep.
Also called Creep. Deformation,
which is time-dependent and
exhibited by textile material
subject to a continuing force
DELICATE WASH
CYCLE
processes,
operations
See Gentle
wash cycle.
See Gentle wash cycle.
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Word Category
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description
Description
DELUSTRANT seams, stitches A material
added to a
spinning
composition
A material added to a spinning
composition before extrusion to
reduce the lustre of a man-
made fibre. The anatase form of
titanium dioxide is commonly
used for this purpose.
DELUSTRED fibers, filaments,
yarns
Man-made
filament or fibre
Man-made filament or fibre, the
sheen of which has been
reduced or eliminated by using
delustrant in the spinning
solution before extrusion. Terms
used to indicate the level of
delustrant in man-made fibres
are: clear, bright, semi-dull, dull,
matt, extra dull, and super-dull.
DENIER fibers, filaments,
yarns
A direct yarn
numbering
system for
expressing
linear density.
A direct yarn numbering system
for expressing linear density.
The mass in grams per 9000 m
of fibre, filament, yarn, or other
textile strand. See also Linear
density.
DENIER
VARIATION
defects See Ring See Ring
DENIM fabrics A very hard-
wearing twill
fabric,
traditionally
made from
cotton
A very hard-wearing twill fabric,
traditionally made from cotton
but now also made in
polyester/cotton and stretch
types in a variety of yarn
numbers, and in various fabric
weights, colours, designs, and
finishes. The weave is usually 3
x 1 twill and a steep twill is
produced by setting the warp
yarns closer together than the
weft. It was originally a
protective clothing fabric but
now it has become accepted for
leisurewear. More recently,
other weaves have been used
in lighter constructions. Denim
has its origin in the traditional
blue, indigo-dyed, over-all cloth
made and worn in Nimes,
hence de Nimes. It is a twill
weave fabric easily
recognisable by the undyed
weft yarn and coloured, usually
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Word Category
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description
Description
indigo blue, warp. It is stiff and
unyielding but softens in wear,
and is very strong and
hardwearing, but fades to
whitish patches at creases or
points of strain, hem edges,
etc., and creases easily. Used
for casual style clothing, such
as jeans, skirts, lightweight
jackets and suits, shorts,
childrens clothes, and for
protective clothing. If made from
cotton, or cotton with polyester;
the fabric is firm. Cotton with
modal is soft. A mixture of
cotton, polyester and viscose, is
firm. Allowance given for
shrinkage. Some denims made
for dresses and less casual
clothes contain more polyester;
the colours are different, the
fabric sometimes thinner, and it
may fray slightly but will crease
less. See also Brushed denim,
Denim cord.
DENIM CORD fabrics Denim-look
fabric
Denim-look fabric made from
white and coloured yarn, with a
slight Bedford cord effect
produced by raised ribs. It is a
mixture of polyester and cotton
fibres, and creases less than all
cotton. Used for casual jackets,
trousers, skirts, and childrens
clothes.
DENSITY fabrics The mass per
unit volume,
based on
measurement of
fabric weight,
thickness and
area.
The mass per unit volume,
based on measurement of
fabric weight, thickness and
area. It represents a measure of
compactness as well as open
space in weave. Fabric density
may be rated high or compact
as contrasted with low or open.
DENT general The term
describes the
space between
adjacent reed
wires.
The term describes the space
between adjacent reed wires.
The unit of a reed comprising a
reed wire and a space between
adjacent wires. Sometimes also
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Word Category
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description
Description
called Split.
DENTAL FLOSS garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A stong loosely
twisted silk yarn
A stong loosely twisted silk
yarn, which is specially treated
and used to clean spaces
between teeth. Now some of
the high tenacity hydrophobic
synthetic yarns in filament form
are being used.
DENTING PLAN fabrics See Reeding
plan
See Reeding plan
DENTS PER UNIT
WIDTH
garments, made-
ups, assemblies
the number of
binding sites per
unit width
In woven pile yarn floor
covering, the number of binding
sites per unit width; dents being
the reed spaces through which
the warp yarns pass in the loom
or the metal strips in the reed
which form these spaces
DEPILATORY A chemical used
in one method of
obtaining hair
from the
carcases of
dead animals
A chemical used in one method
of obtaining hair from the
carcases of dead animals. One
of the methods used for
obtaining pulled wool.
DEPTH general Departure of a
coloured object
from white
Departure of a coloured object
from white and frequently
associated with either
concentration or efficiency of a
colorant.
DERBY RIB fabrics See under Rib
fabric, weft-
knitted.
See under Rib fabric, weft-
knitted.
DERIVATION
WEAVES
fabrics fancy weaves Any fancy weaves derived from
the three basic (plain, twill, and
satin) weaves.
DERRIES fabrics A yarn dyed
cotton dress
fabric made in
brown or blue
A yarn dyed cotton dress fabric
made in brown or blue, or a
combination of either of these
colours with white
DESCRIPTION
COTTON
fabrics Natural
cellulosic
(Gossypium)
fibres
Natural cellulosic (Gossypium)
fibres that are guaranteed to
meet definite specifications as
to character, grade, staple and
place of origin.
DESIGN IN
FABRICS
fabrics Design lends
interest to
fabrics and is
Design lends interest to fabrics
and is responsible for great
variety and beauty. Designs are
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Word Category
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description
Description
responsible for
great variety and
beauty
generally divided into two broad
classes: Structural design:
Patterns are introduced by the
use at intervals of different
yarns such as coloured, thick
and novelty yarns, and those
made of different fibres, e.g.
metallic yarns or lustrous rayon
yarns In S twist yarn, the twist
direction follows the centre bar
of the letter S. (S twist is also
known as left twist and
reverse twist). For some
purposes it is necessary to have
doubled yarns, which are single
yarns twisted together. The
twist of the single yarns can
either run in the same, twist on
twist, or in the opposite
direction, twist against twist.
The latter is the more common
method, since when the single
twists are in opposite directions
the doubled yarn is smoother
and more lustrous.
DESIGN PAPER general IN WEAVING,IN
KNITTING
1. IN WEAVING. Paper ruled
with a series of horizontal and
vertical lines, in a manner
suitable for showing weaves
and designs. Generally, each
space between vertical lines
represents one end and each
space between horizontal lines
represents one pick. For figured
designs, other rul-ings are used.
See also Point-paper design.
2. IN KNITTING. Paper printed
with a series of horizontal and
vertical lines, dots or other
shapes representing a ground
structure on which the draft of a
design is plotted
DESIGNERS
BLANKET
fabrics See Pattern
blanket
See Pattern blanket
DESIZING processes,
operations
The removal of
size from yarn or
fabric
The removal of size from yarn
or fabric, by using acids or
enzymes to convert the size to
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Word Category
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description
Description
a soluble form, which then
washes out
DESORPTION processes,
operations
A process in
which a sorbed
material is
released from
another material
A process in which a sorbed
material is released from
another material, as the
desorption of moisture from
fibres; the reverse of
Absorption, Adsorption or both.
DETERGENCY general The term means
cleansing and,
in its broadest
sense, it is the
removal of any
undesirable or
foreign
substance from
the required
material.
The term means cleansing and,
in its broadest sense, it is the
removal of any undesirable or
foreign substance from the
required material. In the case of
textiles this involves the
removal of all impurities, leaving
the fibres in such a state that
they are equipped for the
purpose for which they are
intended.
Surface tension and detergency
are closely related. When
dealing with textiles the basic
deter-gents are surface-active
compounds. Adjacent
molecules in solids and liquids
exert attractive forces on each
other. It is apparent that the
molecules at the liquid/air
interface differ from those in the
body of the liquid because of
the absence of attractive forces
at right angles to the surface.
The result is that the inward pull
on these molecules is greater
than any of the others, creating
a tendency for the surface to
contract. The phenomenon is
referred to as surface tension.
Surface-active compounds such
as soaps are not distributed
evenly when in solution but tend
to become more concentrated
at the surface layer than in the
body of the solvent. The reason
is that the attraction between
the water dipoles is greater than
that between the paraffin chains
and also between the latter and
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Word Category
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description
Description
water. The introduction of these
aliphatic chains tends to
separate the wa-ter molecules
but the mutual attraction of the
latter is so great that the non-
polar chains will be forced out of
the water phase.
The reduction in surface tension
is caused by the tendency of
the hydrocarbon chains to move
away from the water interface
creating a force in a direction
opposite to the inward pull on
wa-ter molecules at the surface.
The surface-active molecule or
ion can be looked upon as a
bridge between the two phases
making the transition between
them less abrupt. Another factor
to be taken into consideration is
that the crowding together of
molecules at the interface gives
a closely packed boundary layer
offering resistance to the liability
of the surface to diminish in
area.
In textile scouring the task is to
remove a film of oil or wax with
adhering dirt from the fibre. To
do this successfully three things
must be accomplished: (a) the
aqueous phase must wet the
sur-face of the fibre, (b) the oil,
the wax and the dirt must be
detached from the fibre and, (c)
a sta-ble emulsion of the oil
must be formed so that it will
not be redeposited.
When a fibre, covered with a
layer of oil or wax, is immersed
in a warm aqueous solution of
soap and observed under a
microscope it will be seen that
the oil or wax film bunching up
and ultimately collecting itself
into spherical globules which
get very easily detached from
the fibre surface.
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Description
DETERGENT A surface-active
cleaning agent
or solvent
A surface-active cleaning agent
or solvent, containing one or
more surfactants as the active
ingredient(s). Originally the term
applied to soap and water
softeners. Now, it generally
applies to various synthetic
washing products, which have
good dispersing properties and
are stable in acid or alkaline
solutions
DETWISTED fibers, filaments,
yarns
a yarn of fibres
or filaments from
which twist has
been removed.
Descriptive of a yarn of fibres or
filaments from which twist has
been removed.
DEVELOPED
DYES
Also called
Diazo dyes.
Class of dyes,
which is altered
through the use
of a developer to
improve
fastness
Also called Diazo dyes. Class of
dyes, which is altered through
the use of a developer to
improve fastness. The material
is first dyed with a direct dye,
and then treated with an acid in
a step called diazotizing then
further treated with a solution of
beta-naphthol or similar
chemical known as the
developer, from which this class
receives its name. Used to
make a different shade of the
same colour or to increase
colour resistance to sun and
washing. Applied almost
exclusively to cotton, although it
may be used on viscose rayon,
silk, linen and mixtures. Also
used for discharge printing of
cotton, viscose rayon and silk
because of the ease with which
they can be bleached by
chemicals in printing and their
fastness to moderate washing.
DEVELOPING processes,
operations
A step in a
dyeing or
printing process
A step in a dyeing or printing
process in which an
intermediate form of the
colorant is converted with
certain compounds, which will
develop a new colour, a
different shade of the same
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description
Description
colour, or improved fastness
properties.
DEVELOPING
AGENT
A chemical,
which is applied
to a dyed fabric
A chemical, which is applied to
a dyed fabric to develop the
colour on the fabric to its
insoluble state
DEVORANT
FABRIC
fabrics See Burnt-out
fabric
See Burnt-out fabric
DEVOR FABRIC fabrics See Burnt-out
fabric
See Burnt-out fabric
DEW POINT general temperature
below which
condensation of
water vapour
begins
The temperature below which
condensation of water vapour
begins to take place when the
atmosphere is cooled.
DEWDROPS accessories Little drops of
gelatin or glass
Little drops of gelatin or glass
used for ornamentation of some
net fabrics
DEWING
MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage, tools
A type of
damping
machine
A type of damping machine
DIACETATE FIBRE fibers, filaments,
yarns
A manufactured
fibre
A manufactured fibre made
from acetone-soluble cellulose
acetate
DIAGONAL fabrics A characteristic
rather bold
diagonal twill
line
A characteristic rather bold
diagonal twill line generally
running across the fabric at
45angle; other angles of
inclination are also used
DIAMOND fabrics,apparatus,
equipage, tools
Lozenge-
shaped design
1. Lozenge-shaped design
obtained by reversing a twill in
both warp and weft.
2. In zippers, the wedge-shaped
portion of a slider between the
throats.
DIAMOND BRAID fabrics Same as Plain
braid
Same as Plain braid
DIAMOND-
BARRING
defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Weft streaks that
are distributed in a
characteristic pattern in a
woven or flat weft-knitted fabric;
this being the result of a
periodic variation in the
diameter, twist, tension or
crimp, or shade in the weft yarn.
The dimensions of this fault
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description
Description
depend on the ratio of the
length of the periodic variations
to the width of the fabric and
only rarely is it seen in a clearly
diamond form.
DIAPER garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A babys napkin A babys napkin
DIAPER WEAVES fabrics The original
diaper cloth was
made of linen
and based on a
5-end sateen,
woven on the
damask
principle
Also called Diced weaves. The
original diaper cloth was made
of linen and based on a 5-end
sateen, woven on the damask
principle. The cloth has a
smooth even surface. The
favoured method of producing
this group of weaves is shown
below in Diaper weave (1). It is
based on a diced weave e.g.
the 5-end sateen. Another form
is shown in Diaper weave (II),
where two basic weaves are
used. Many weaves within this
group produce effects, which
are of a diamond character as
shown in Diaper weave (III). A
very ancient form of diaper is
huckaback. Diapers are
produced in cotton, linen and
flax, and used principally for
towel and toilet purposes.
DIAZO DYES See Developed
dyes.
See Developed dyes.
DIAZOTIZING processes,
operations
An intermediate
step in the
process of
developed
dyeing.
An intermediate step in the
process of developed dyeing.
The dyed material is treated
with a solution of nitrous acid,
which changes the amino group
in the dyestuff to a diazo
grouping, which can then unite
chemically with a developer to
give a new dye compound on
the fibre.
DICED WEAVES fabrics A group of
weaves
produced by
quartering and
reversing a
weave element
Also referred to as Diaper
weaves. A group of weaves
produced by quartering and
reversing a weave element,
thus forming opposite surfaces
and directions in each quarter
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Description
and clean cuts between the
sections. Weaves tend to repeat
on relatively small areas, but
larger versions are possible.
DICEL fibers, filaments,
yarns
It is derived from
cellulose, dyes
well and has
exceptionally
good draping
qualities
Trade name for an acetate fibre.
It is derived from cellulose, dyes
well and has exceptionally good
draping qualities. Wears well,
has good crease-recovery
properties and is resistant to
moths and mildew. Used for a
wide variety of fabrics for
clothing and furnishing, taffeta,
brocade, lining fabric and velvet
and in knit form for lingerie.
Often used with other fibres to
create special effects, e.g.
dicel/viscose jacquards for
evening and bridal fabrics
DIE apparatus,
equipage, tools
A small cylinder
of steel, which is
hand-engraved
A small cylinder of steel, which
is hand-engraved with one or
more repeats of a small-scale
print design pattern, then
hardened and used to produce
the mill. See also Mill
DIE CUTTING processes,
operations
Cutting one or
more layers of
fabric using
cutting tools
Also called Die pressing.
Cutting one or more layers of
fabric using cutting tools (dies)
or a composite cutting tool in
conjunction with machine
pressure
DIE PRESSING processes,
operations
See Die cutting See Die cutting
DIE SWELL fibers, filaments,
yarns
See under Swell
ratio.
See under Swell ratio.
DIFFERENTIAL
DROP FEED
apparatus,
equipage, tools
In sewing
machine, a type
of drop feed
having two feed
dogs
In sewing machine, a type of
drop feed having two feed dogs,
arranged in tandem, which
move differentially. Material can
be gathered or stretched by
adjusting the stroke of the feed
dog in front of the needle so
that it is longer or shorter
respectively than the stroke of
the feed dog be-hind the needle
DIFFERENTIAL fibers, filaments, tendency of The tendency of cotton fibres to
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description
Description
DYEING yarns cotton fibres to
absorb and
retain
absorb and retain selectively
varying proportions of different
dyes from a binary dye bath
DIFFERENTIAL
FEED
apparatus,
equipage, tools
In sewing
machine, a work
advancing
mechanism
In sewing machine, a work
advancing mechanism where
the dogs are divided into two
groups, one before the
needle(s) and one after. The
two groups are capable of
advancing the work at different
rates. If the front group
advances the work faster than
the rear, a condition of
compression or overfeed will
occur. If the front group
advances the work at a slower
rate than the rear, a condition of
stretching or underfeed will
occur. In knitted garment
production differential feed is
used to lessen stretching of the
fabric during seaming.
DIFFERENTIAL
SHRINKAGE
accessories In zippers In zippers, the difference in
longitudinal dimensional change
between the zipper tape and the
fabric to which the zipper is
attached
DIFFERENTIAL
WEAR
defects See Frosting See Frosting
DIGITAL SOCKS garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Knitted foot
coverings
Knitted foot coverings in which
a single tube covering the ankle
and instep of the foot splits into
more than one tube at the toes.
The tubes fit over one or more
toes.
DIMENSIONAL
CHANGE
general changes in
length or width
of a fabric or
garment
specimen
A generic term for changes in
length or width of a fabric or
garment specimen subjected to
specified conditions. The
change is usually expressed as
a percentage of the initial
dimension of the specimen
DIMENSIONAL
RESTORATION
general Ability of a fabric
to return to
former or
original
dimensions
Ability of a fabric to return to
former or original dimensions
after being distorted by
shrinking or stretching
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DIMENSIONAL
STABILITY
general Ability of a fabric
to retain its
shape and size
Ability of a fabric to retain its
shape and size during normal
usage. Increased stability for
washing and wearing may be
obtained by fibre blends, by
chemical treatments or by
mechanical means.
DIMITY fabrics from the Greek
word meaning
double thread.
Name comes from the Greek
word meaning double thread.
The fabric is made from double
or treble yarns, which create
ridges in plain areas. Fine or
medium weight fabric, usually
made from cotton, and wears
well. Is often in check. Used for
nightwear, childrens clothes
and curtains.
DIP chemical
composition that
is applied to a
textile cord or
fabric
A chemical composition that is
applied to a textile cord or fabric
to improve its adhesion to
rubber or other elastomer
DIP DYEING processes,
operations
The process of
dyeing hosiery a
The process of dyeing hosiery
and other knit goods by
immersion in a dye bath.
DIP PICK-UP general the amount of
dip or dip
components
present after
processing
In textile material, the amount of
dip or dip components present
after processing, including
drying, as determined by
prescribed methods, and
expressed as percentage of the
mass of the oven-dry dip-free
material
DIRECT CABLING processes,
operations
A system of
producing a
twist-balanced
folded yarn
A system of producing a twist-
balanced folded yarn from
balanced (or twistless) single
yarns. The process is usually
carried out on a modified two-
for-one twisting machine.
DIRECT DYES Also known as
Substantive
dyes,
Commercial
dyes
Also known as Substantive
dyes, Commercial dyes. The
name direct dyes arose from
the fact that the dyes have
direct substantivity for cellulosic
fibres, i.e. without the necessity
for a pre-mordanting treatment.
These are anionic dyes having
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Word Category
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description
Description
substantivity for cellulosic fibres.
Normally applied from an
aqueous dyebath containing a
salt (electrolyte). Direct dyes
are:
suitable for acrylic, cotton,
linen, wool, silk, viscose rayon,
and cuprammonium rayon
fibres, but now the usage is
declining
DIRECT SPINNING processes,
operations
IN MAN-MADE
FIBRE
PRODUCTION,
IN MAN-MADE
FIBRE YARN
PRODUCTION,
IN BAST FIBRE
PRODUCTION
1. IN MAN-MADE FIBRE
PRODUCTION. Integrated
polymerisation and fibre
extrusion without in-tervening
isolation or storage of the
polymer.
2. IN MAN-MADE FIBRE YARN
PRODUCTION. The conversion
of filament tow to staple fibre
and spin yarn in one operation.
See also Yarn from filament tow
under Spinning.
3. IN BAST FIBRE
PRODUCTION. A method of
dry-spinning bast fibres
whereby untwisted slivers are
drafted with suitable controls
and directly twisted into yarn.
4. IN SHORT-STAPLE YARN
PRODUCTION. The
manufacture of yarn directly
from sliver on the cotton
system, bypassing the roving
process
DIRECT STYLE
PRINTING
processes,
operations
The type of
textile printing in
which the
colouring matter
and the mordant
are applied
simultaneously
Also called Application printing.
The type of textile printing in
which the colouring matter and
the mordant are applied
simultaneously, direct to a cloth.
Until the advent of chemically
produced dyestuffs there was
very little direct printing (i.e.
printing with a paste containing
both the colour and the fixing
agent), exception being almost
all the pigment colours. It is to
be noted that, pigment colours
effect only just a coating (rather
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Word Category
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description
Description
painting) of the outside of yarn
or fabric, unlike dyestuffs, which
stain the individual fibres of the
yarn or fabric.
DIRECT YARN
NUMBERING
SYSTEM
fibers, filaments,
yarns
A system that
expresses yarn
number in mass
per unit length
A system that expresses yarn
number in mass per unit length;
i.e. linear density.
DIRECT-SPUN fibers, filaments,
yarns
A term used to
describe
filaments or yarn
produced by
direct spinning
1. A term used to describe
filaments or yarn produced by
direct spinning.
2. Descriptive of woollen yarns
spun on a mule machine onto
weft bobbins.
DIRECTION OF
TWIST
fibers, filaments,
yarns
The direction in
which the twist
is inserted in
yarns and other
textile strands.
The direction in which the twist
is inserted in yarns and other
textile strands.
Twist is inserted by rotating the
spinning/doubling spindle in
either one direction or the other.
It is the general practice to
indicate these two directions by
the capital letters S and Z.
The downstroke of each letter
indicates the direction in which
the surface fibres lie.
The Z twisted yarns are twisted
so that the direction of the twist
follows the centre bar of the let-
ter Z. (Z twist is also known
as right twist and ordinary
twist).
In S twist yarn, the twist
direction follows the centre bar
of the letter S. (S twist is also
known as left twist and
reverse twist).
For some purposes it is
necessary to have doubled
yarns, which are single yarns
twisted to-gether. The twist of
the single yarns can either run
in the same, twist on twist, or in
the opposite direction, twist
against twist. The latter is the
more common method, since
when the single twists are in
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description
Description
opposite directions the doubled
yarn is smoother and more
lustrous.
DIRECTION OF
YARN SLIPPAGE
fabrics In woven fabric,
that which is
required to
produce yarn
slippage
In woven fabric, the line of
movement parallel to either the
weft or the warp yarns in which
minimum force is required to
produce yarn slippage
DIRTY ENDS defects See Soiled
ends.
See Soiled ends.
DISCHARGE An agent, which
removes
(discharges) the
colour from
previously dyed
cloth.
An agent, which removes
(discharges) the colour from
previously dyed cloth. Hence,
the discharge style printing of
fabrics
DISCHARGE
STYLE PRINTING
processes,
operations
Also called
Extract printing.
Also called Extract printing. It is
possible to destroy by bleaching
out, or discharging by chemical
means, a pattern from an
already piece-dyed fabric. This
process enables fairly intricate
and fine patterns to be printed,
giving the effect of resist dyeing.
Subsequently these white areas
could be reprinted in a different
colour.
Now, colour discharges are
produced in which a range of
dyestuffs unaffected by the
discharg-ing agent are added to
the discharge paste, so while
the one is taking out the colour
of the dyed ground, the other is
being deposited in its place.
DISCRETE
SAMPLE
general Compare Bulk
sample
One or more units taken from a
material that consists of
separately identifiable units.
(Compare Bulk sample).
DISPERSE DYES Non-ionic.
Water-insoluble
dyes usually
applied as a
finely divided
dispersion.
Non-ionic. Water-insoluble dyes
usually applied as a finely
divided dispersion. Disperse
dyes are:
suitable for cellulose acetate,
cellulose triacetate, and
polyester fibres
suitable for polyamide, acrylic,
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Word Category
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description
Description
and elastomeric fibres, but the
usage is now declining.
DISPERSIBILITY general The degree to
which particles
can be broken
down to some
minimum size
The degree to which particles
can be broken down to some
minimum size such that they will
pass through the interstices of a
standard filter paper.
DISPERSION general, fibers,
filaments, yarns
Suspension of
very fine
particles in a
liquid phase.
1. Suspension of very fine
particles in a liquid phase.
2. See under Fibre length.
DISPERSION
SPINNING
processes,
operations
A process in
which polymers
extrude into
fibres
A process in which polymers
that tend to an infusible,
insoluble, and generally
intractable character (e.g.
polytetrafluoroethylene) are
dispersed as fine particles in a
carrier such as sodium alginate
or sodium cellulose xanthate
solutions, that permit extrusion
into fibres, after which the
dispersed polymer is caused to
coalesce by a heating process,
the carrier being removed either
by a heating or by a dissolving
process.
DISPLACED INLAY
YARN
defects Fabric defect Fabric defect. A break in the
intended pattern of an inlay pile
fabric. The defect is caused by
a disruption in the
synchronisation of the knitting
elements that control the
position of a fleecy yarn in a
laid-in fabric
DISPOSABLE
FABRICS
fabrics Expendable
items
Expendable items, such as
hospital sheets, pillowcases,
diapers, wiping cloths, and
paper dresses.
DISPOSABLE
GARMENT
garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A garment,
which is
intended to be
worn only once,
A garment, which is intended to
be worn only once, or a few
times and then discarded.
DISSOLVING
PULP
fibers, filaments,
yarns
A specially
purified form of
cellulose
A specially purified form of
cellulose made from wood
tissue
DISTORTED fabrics A mock-leno A mock-leno weave where
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Description
THREAD EFFECT weave threads can be displaced from
their normal line in either the
warp direction, or the weft
direction.
DISTORTION defects Defect in textile
battings.
Defect in textile battings. The
defects are holes, lumps, or thin
areas caused by movement of
fibres in the batting
DISTRICT
CHECKS
fabrics Bold distinctive
woollen checks
Bold distinctive woollen checks
usually in 2x2 twill weave.
Originally, fabric patterns
designed to indicate the family
lineage of members of the
various Scottish clans.
DISTURBED
PLACE
defects Fabric defect Fabric defect. An area where
the weave has been
disarranged, but where the
yarns are undam-aged.
DIVIDED DRAW fabrics Multiple fabrics Multiple fabrics (backed and
double cloths) that have two or
more warps in the construction.
DIVIDED
HARNESS
apparatus,
equipage, tools
This type of
harness is used
when weaving
jacquard fabrics
having two
distinct sets of
figuring threads
This type of harness is used
when weaving jacquard fabrics
having two distinct sets of
figuring threads, e.g. double
cloths figured by interchange or
repps. It makes card cutting
easier and simplifies defect
tracing
DMEU See under
Epoxy resin
See under Epoxy resin
DOBBY apparatus,
equipage, tools
A mechanical
device, which
controls the
harnesses in a
loom
A mechanical device, which
controls the harnesses in a
loom for controlling the
movement of the heald shafts to
give small geometric patterns in
the fabric being produced
DOBBY FABRIC fabrics Any one or a
variety of
weaves which
require a dobby
Any one or a variety of weaves
which require a dobby
DOBBY LOOM apparatus,
equipage, tools
A loom
equipped with a
dobby head.
A loom equipped with a dobby
head. See Dobby
DOCTOR apparatus,
equipage, tools
In printing, a
straight-edged
In printing, a straight-edged
steel blade which is placed in
229
Word Category
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description
Description
steel blade
which is placed
in contact with
the engraved
cylinder
contact with the engraved
cylinder and serves to scrape
off the surplus colour from the
raised, non printing, surface.
The term is now applied to any
blade-type sqeegee. See
Squeegee
DOCTOR STREAK defects Printing defect. Printing defect. A wavy white or
coloured streak in the warp
direction on printed cloth,
caused usually due to damaged
or improperly set doctor blade
on the printing machine.
DOCTORS
FLANNEL
fabrics Soft, medium
weight,
inexpensive
flannel fabric.
Soft, medium weight,
inexpensive flannel fabric.
Fibres are wool or mixed. In
white or red only. Type of fabric
that could be used for interlining
for warmth, lining childrens
clothes, nurses cloaks, etc.
DOESKIN fabrics A well-known
glove-leather
from lambs
A well-known glove-leather from
lambs. It is very soft and easy to
sew.
DOESKIN FABRIC fabrics A five-end satin
or other warp-
faced fabric with
dress-face
finish.
A five-end satin or other warp-
faced fabric with dress-face
finish. Now, other weaves, such
as 2/1 warp twill and 3/1 broken
crow, are very often used and
given a dress-finish. It is often
the effect and the kid-glove
handle due to the finish that
causes such fabric to be placed
in the category of doeskin. The
fabric is all wool, often merino,
or possibly blended wool
including merino. Used for
formal tailored garments, dress
uniforms, etc. Expensive fabric
in its best qualities.
DOFFING processes,
operations
The removal of
textile material
or packages
from a textile
machine.
1. The removal of textile
material or packages from a
textile machine.
2. The replacement of spinning
packages, which are full with
empty spinning tubes (cops).
This may be done manually or
by automatic doffing units
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Word Category
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Description
DOG-EARED fabrics Fabrics that
have a tendency
to roll or curl
diagonally
Fabrics that have a tendency to
roll or curl diagonally after the
piece has been cut.
DOG-LEGGED
SELVEDGE
defects See Uneven
selvedge
See Uneven selvedge
DOGS apparatus,
equipage, tools
See Feed-dogs See Feed-dogs
DOGSTOOTH
CHECK
fabrics See
Houndstooth
check
See Houndstooth check under
Checks
DOLLY apparatus,
equipage,
tools,accessories
A machine in
which fabric
pieces sewn end
to end are
circulated
repeatedly
through a liquor
1. A machine in which fabric
pieces sewn end to end are
circulated repeatedly through a
liquor by means of a single pair
of squeeze rollers and a
drawing-off roller above the
liquor.
2. See Tom-tom.
3.A device for applying moisture
during pressing. A strip of fabric
rolled up tightly and bound with
tape or string at one end and it
is used like a brush.
DOMESTIC fabrics A general name
for common
cotton goods
A general name for common
cotton goods, such as sheeting
and towels
DOMESTIC
KNITTING
MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage, tools
A knitting
machine
designed to be
used in the
home.
A knitting machine designed to
be used in the home. In spite of
this, the machines can be very
complex and versatile. Most
types feature some form of
needle selection and some
types have computer controls.
These machines have been
widely used industrially also,
particularly by designer-led high
fashion firms
DOMETE fabrics Also called
Domette
Also called Domette. Imitation
flannel made from a cotton warp
and a wool or cotton-wool weft,
fininshed with a long nap on
both sides. Used for interfacing
coats and jackets in which hair-
canvas is to be used. It is
placed against the chest area of
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Word Category
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description
Description
the coat and the hair-canvas on
top. Prevents hair from
penetrating to the right side of
the garment and also avoids
showing a hard ridge. It is also
used for linings, skirtings, and
pyjamas and as padded
interlining for quilting.
DOMETTE fabrics See Domete See Domete
DONEGAL fabrics A fabric woven
from woollen-
spun yarns
A fabric woven from woollen-
spun yarns characterised by its
plain-weave structure
composed of uneven slub yarns
which contain flecks of white or
bright colour contrasting with
the ground colour. Named after
the county of Donegal where it
was originally produced. Made
in a wide range of weights and
colour combinations for suiting
and coating use. Though
tweeds are normally thought of
as being masculine fabrics but
in this type, as in others, tweeds
are made completely feminine
in style and colouring. The word
Donegal is now used to
describe almost any plain-
weave tweedy looking cloth with
white or bright colour nubs in it.
Fibres used include acrylic,
cotton, viscose, and mixtures
and blends of these
DONKEY apparatus,
equipage, tools
A pressing
board in which
an upper
padded board is
supported
above the base.
A pressing board in which an
upper padded board is
supported above the base.
Designed so that parts of a
garment may be pressed
without creasing the garment as
a whole.
DOPE fibers, filaments,
yarns
A solution of a
fibre-forming
polymer (the
spinning-
solution)
A solution of a fibre-forming
polymer (the spinning-solution)
ready for extruding through a
spinner-ets.
DOPE DYEING processes,
operations
See Mass
colouration.
See Mass colouration.
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Word Category
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description
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DOSUTI fabrics,
processes,
operations
A fabric that has
two warp ends
and two weft
threads working
in pairs
1. FABRIC. A fabric that has
two warp ends and two weft
threads working in pairs. Name
originated from the Hindi word,
which literally means two
threads.
2. IN WINDING. The process of
combining two threads together
at a winding machine.
DOTTED SWISS fabrics A sheer cotton
fabric with crisp
finish and
hardwearing.
A sheer cotton fabric with crisp
finish and hardwearing. Its
distinguishing feature is the self-
colour or contrast woven spots
made from soft yarn and
brought on to the right side of
the fabric. The dull crisp finish
was originally a Swiss textile
finish, but the name now applies
to many fabrics that are fine and
spotted. Usually cotton but may
contain polyester. Used for
blouses, nightwear, and
childrens clothes, sheer
curtains.
DOUBLE processes,
operations
See Fold. See Fold.
DOUBLE AND
TWIST YARN
fibers, filaments,
yarns
Also called D
and T yarn.
Also called D and T yarn. A two
colour yarn with a spiral effect
made by twisting together yarns
of different colours in a two-ply
construction. See Mottled yarn.
DOUBLE BOW defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Two bows in
fabric arcing in the same
direction, as in a flattened M or
W depending on the viewing
angle. See also Bow. (Compare
Double reverse bow).
DOUBLE BRAID accessories In rope, a
braided
construction
In rope, a braided construction
consisting of two hollow braided
ropes, one inside the other.
DOUBLE BRAIDED
ROPE
accessories See under
Rope.
See under Rope.
DOUBLE
BREASTED
garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Also called DB. Also called DB. Coat or other
garment with wrap over fronts
having buttons and buttonholes
on each forepart.
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Description
DOUBLE CANVAS fabrics Open
embroidery
canvas fabric
usually made of
cotton yarn.
Open embroidery canvas fabric
usually made of cotton yarn.
Plain weave but with the warp
and weft threads arranged in
pairs, allowing quite large holes
to alternate with very small
ones. A rigid canvas stiffened
with size, and is available in
several weights.
DOUBLE
CARDING
processes,
operations
Process of
carding fibres,
twice
Process of carding fibres, twice
so that the yarn made from it
approaches a combed yarn in
appearance.
DOUBLE CLOTH fabrics A compound
woven fabric in
which two
component
fabrics are held
together
A compound woven fabric in
which two component fabrics
are held together by one of the
following:
1. CENTRE-STITCHING, in
which a special series of
stitching threads, lying between
the two fabrics, are interlaced
alternately with them and thus
bind them together.
2. SELF-STITCHING, in which
threads from one fabric
interlace with the other (e.g. by
taking a back warp thread over
a face weft thread).
3. INTERCHANGING, in which
the two fabrics are so woven as
to interchange with each other.
In some cases, the fabrics are
completely interchanged
whereas in others only the warp
or weft threads interchange.
DOUBLE
COMBING
processes,
operations
A system of
processing
cotton through
the combing
machinery twice
to produce very
high quality, fine
count yarn.
A system of processing cotton
through the combing machinery
twice to produce very high
quality, fine count yarn. It is
generally used for yarns finer
than 100s and these yarns are
generally mule spun.
DOUBLE DYED fabrics A union fabric,
which is dyed
twice.
A union fabric, which is dyed
twice. In the first dyeing
process, a dye with affinity for
one of the fibres is used and in
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the second dyeing, another dye
with an affinity for the second
fibre is employed. This is in
contrast with union dyeing.
DOUBLE ENDS fibers, filaments,
yarns, fabrics,
defects
See Married
yarn.
1. YARN. See Married yarn.
2. FABRIC. A fabric having two
warp yarns drawn through the
same heddle eye and reed dent
to weave as a single end.
3. FABRIC DEFECT. The result
of wrong drawing-in of two or
more warp ends. Usually
drawing-in an extra end through
the heddle eye where there
should be only one end. This
forms a flat-effect or out-of-line
effect in the warp direction.
DOUBLE HOOKED
BOW
defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. One hooked bow
at each side of the fabric that
are in opposite directions. See
also Bow and Hooked bow.
DOUBLE HOSIERY garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Stockings with
reinforced toe
and heel
Stockings with reinforced toe
and heel to give the appearance
of a double thread.
DOUBLE J ERSEY fabrics Also called
Double knit.
Firm, textured,
heavy fabric in
plain colours
and is
characterised by
the fact that both
right and wrong
sides are
identical, i.e.
they look like
stocking stitch.
Also called Double knit. Firm,
textured, heavy fabric in plain
colours and is characterised by
the fact that both right and
wrong sides are identical, i.e.
they look like stocking stitch.
Although traditionally wool,
which has become expensive,
this may now be acrylic fibre.
Used for skirts, trousers,
jackets, warm dresses, light
coats. See also J ersey.
DOUBLE J ERSEY
KNITTING
MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage, tools
Also called Rib
knitting
machine.
Also called Rib knitting
machine. A machine, usually
circular, having two sets of
needles disposed at 90 to one
another, and used for the
production of piece goods in rib
fabric.
DOUBLE KNIT fabrics Same as Double
jersey
Same as Double jersey
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description
Description
DOUBLE
KNITTING YARN
fibers, filaments,
yarns
A four-ply hand
knitting yarn
A four-ply hand knitting yarn
with a resultant yarn number of
approximately 440 tex.
DOUBLE LIFT apparatus,
equipage, tools
Dobby and
jacquard
weaving
mechanisms
Dobby and jacquard weaving
mechanisms in which there are
two knives or griffes, one
operating on odd picks, the
other on even picks, to effect
the lift.
DOUBLE LINE
TWILLS
fabrics A term for twill
weaves
A term for twill weaves which
produce a pattern in which two
of the twill lines are spaced
close together with a gap before
the pattern repeats
DOUBLE LOCKER
MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage, tools
See under Lace
machines.
See under Lace machines.
DOUBLE LONDON accessories A worsted twill
tape, generally
with a two-fold
warp.
A worsted twill tape, generally
with a two-fold warp.
DOUBLE MARL fibers, filaments,
yarns
See under
Worsted
See under Worsted
DOUBLE PICK fabrics, defects The intentional
insertion of two
picks in the
same shed
during weaving.
1. IN FABRIC. The intentional
insertion of two picks in the
same shed during weaving.
2. FABRIC DEFECT. Two weft
picks wrongly placed in the
same shed, causing a sort of
ribbed effect in the warp, which
may be very readily noted. See
also Mispick and J erk-in.
DOUBLE PICK
INTERWOVEN
SELVEDGE
general See under
Selvedge
See under Selvedge
DOUBLE PICK
KNITTED
SELVEDGE
general See under
Selvedge.
See under Selvedge.
DOUBLE PIQU fabrics Also known as
Wevenit, Rodier
and Overnit.
Also known as Wevenit, Rodier
and Overnit. A non-jacquard
weft-knitted double jersey fabric
made on a rib basis, using a
selection of knitted loops and
floats. The two most important
sequences are known as Swiss
double piqu and French
double piqu.
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description
Description
DOUBLE PLAIN fabrics A form of woven
double fabric.
A form of woven double fabric.
See also Double cloth.
DOUBLE
PRINTING
processes,
operations
A second
printing on top of
a previously
printed cloth.
1. A second printing on top of a
previously printed cloth.
2. Printing a design on the back
(wrong side) of a cloth different
from the design on the face
(right side).
3. See Duplex printing.
DOUBLE
REFRACTION
general See
Birefringence.
See Birefringence.
DOUBLE
REVERSE BOW
defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Two fabric bows
arcing in opposite directions.
See also Bow. (Compare
Double bow.)
DOUBLE ROVING
SPINNING
processes,
operations
A system in
which two
rovings are fed
to each spindle
of a ring frame
A system in which two rovings
are fed to each spindle of a ring
frame, so producing a pseudo
two-fold or two-strand yarn. The
rovings are separated in the
drafting system by means of
special guides and the two
drafted strands then combined
after the drafting system. See
also Spinning.
DOUBLE SATIN fabrics A warp-backed
satin, frequently
used for ribbons
A warp-backed satin, frequently
used for ribbons, with the
backing ends stitched in sateen
order to present a warp-satin
surface on both sides of the
fabric.
DOUBLE SATIN
RIBBON
accessories Originally a
ribbon in which
every other warp
end floats on
one surface and
the other warp
ends on the
other surface in
a satin weave.
Originally a ribbon in which
every other warp end floats on
one surface and the other warp
ends on the other surface in a
satin weave. In recent times, it
is more usually produced in a
4/4 weave, and thus every end
floats alternately on both
surfaces. It is produced from
continuous filament yarns.
DOUBLE SHOT accessories The construction
of a narrow
fabric ribbon or
galloon
The construction of a narrow
fabric ribbon or galloon in which
the body of the fabric is 2/2
weave, providing a pronounced
weft-way rib. A plane weave
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Word Category
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description
Description
binder separates the body from
the selvedge.
DOUBLE SPUN
YARN
processes,
operations
A smooth yarn
free of knots and
imperfections
A smooth yarn free of knots and
imperfections. Said to be the
result of extra care and
improved handling in
manufacture. Actually a
misnomer.
DOUBLE TWILL
WEAVE
fabrics A fancy weave A fancy weave in which
continuous right-hand twill is
crossed by a left-hand twill.
DOUBLE WEAVE
FABRIC
fabrics A fabric woven
with two
complete sets of
warp and weft
yarns.
A fabric woven with two
complete sets of warp and weft
yarns. Only one set is visible on
the face at any one point
DOUBLE WELT
SEAM
seams, stitches Also called
Mock flat-felled
seam.
Also called Mock flat-felled
seam. A complex seam formed
on the inside of the object, with
one trimmed raw seam edge
enclosed and two rows of
stitching visible on the face
side. A double welt seam is
made like a welt seam except
that a second row of
topstitching is stitched close to
the original seamline. The three
rows of stitching visible on the
backside are the original
seamline, the row of stitching
through the article and the wider
of the seam allowances, and
the row added near the original
seam line. (Compare Welt
seam).
DOUBLE, ON THE processes,
operations
Any fabric,
which has been
folded along the
middle of its
length, normally
with the face
side inwards, so
that the
selvedges are
together.
Any fabric, which has been
folded along the middle of its
length, normally with the face
side inwards, so that the
selvedges are together. Cutting
on the double is performed by
cutting through two thicknesses
so as to obtain two pieces, i.e. a
right and left hand section.
DOUBLE-ENDED
NEEDLE
apparatus,
equipage, tools
See under
Needle.
See under Needle.
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Word Category
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description
Description
DOUBLE-FACED fabrics The term
applied to fabric,
which can be
worn on either
side.
The term applied to fabric,
which can be worn on either
side.
DOUBLE-FACED
J ACQUARD
fabrics A weft-knitted
patterned rib-
based fabric
A weft-knitted patterned rib-
based fabric in which a different
jacquard design appears on
both sides of the fabric. See
also Reverse jacquard.
DOUBLE-LOCKED
CHAIN STITCH
seams, stitches See Two-thread
chain stitch.
See Two-thread chain stitch.
DOUBLE-PLUSH
LOOM
apparatus,
equipage, tools
A loom in which
two pieces of
plush are woven
one above the
other.
A loom in which two pieces of
plush are woven one above the
other.
DOUBLE-
STITCHED SEAM-
FINISH
seams, stitches A finish for the
raw edges of a
plain seam, in
which another
row of machine
stitching is made
through both
seam
allowances
placed together
A finish for the raw edges of a
plain seam, in which another
row of machine stitching is
made through both seam
allowances placed together. A
double-stitched seam-finish is
made by machine stitching
through both seam allowances
together approximately 3 mm
away from the original seam
line within the seam allowance,
forcing the seam allowance to
be turned only in one direction.
DOUBLE-V TWILL fabrics A narrow fabric
weave
A narrow fabric weave in which
there are two repeats of a
herringbone pattern in the width
of the fabric.
DOUBLED
SELVEDGE
defects See Curled
selvedge.
See Curled selvedge.
DOUBLED YARN fibers, filaments,
yarns
See Folded
yarn.
See Folded yarn.
DOUBLES defects Yarn defect Yarn defect, caused by forming
a yarn from more than the
required number of component
strands.
DOUBLING processes,
operations
The operation of
combining two
or more strands,
without twisting
1. The operation of combining
two or more strands, without
twisting, to average the
unevenness and the variations
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Description
of each strand.
2. A yarn in which two or more
single yarns are twisted
together in one operation. The
initial twist and resultant
doubling twist quoted. Doubling
is sometimes referred to as
Twisting.
DOUBLING
DEFECT
defects Yarn defect Yarn defect, caused by forming
a yarn from more than the
required number of component
strands.
DOUPION fabrics Also called
Dupion. Fabric
with an uneven
surface and
rough texture
made from
yarns that are
irregular in
thickness.
Also called Dupion. Fabric with
an uneven surface and rough
texture made from yarns that
are irregular in thickness.
Originally the term was used to
describe the particular type of
silk yarn, which was spun from
the silk of two cocoons that had
nested together. The two silks
were not separated in spinning
and were therefore uneven.
Doupion was originally made
from silk, but now it may also be
made from viscose, acetate and
other synthetic yarns by
manufacturing them in uneven
thickness. Doupions usually
made as firm, medium-weight
fabrics of plain weave. Used for
womens summer suits,
wedding outfits, etc.
DOWLAS fabrics Originally, a
plain-woven
coarse linen
fabric used for
clothing.
Originally, a plain-woven coarse
linen fabric used for clothing.
Now, the term refers to a low-
quality cotton fabric made of
coarse rough-spun yarn,
finished to imitate linen and
used for towels, aprons, etc
DOWN fibers, filaments,
yarns
The fine, soft
plumage of
ducks and other
waterfowl
The fine, soft plumage of ducks
and other waterfowl, consisting
of light fluffy filaments having at
least two barbs attached; i.e.
barbs growing from the quill
point but without a quill shaft.
Used for pillows, quilts,
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description
Description
paddings, etc.
DOWN FIBRES fibers, filaments,
yarns
Detached barbs
from down
Detached barbs from down;
plumules and detached barbs
from the basal end of waterfowl
feather quill shafts that are
indistinguishable from the barbs
of down.
DOWN PROOF
CAMBRIC
fabrics Cream or white
plain weave
cotton fabric of
cambric weight
with a waxed or
glazed surface
Cream or white plain weave
cotton fabric of cambric weight
with a waxed or glazed surface
to make it feather-or down
proof. Used for pillow coverings,
cushion covers, duvet covers,
mattress covers.
DOWN TWISTING processes,
operations
See under Ring
twisting.
See under Ring twisting.
DP See Degree of
polymerisation
See Degree of polymerisation
DRAFT processes,
operations
To reduce the
linear density of
a fibrous
assembly by
drawing
1. To reduce the linear density
of a fibrous assembly by
drawing.
2. During drafting, the degree of
attenuation calculated either as
the ratio of the input to output
linear densities, or as the ratio
of the surface speeds of the
output and input machine
compo-nents which bring about
drafting.
3. A constructed plan of a
garment; the application of body
or garment measurements to a
flat plane.
DRAFTING processes,
operations
See Draughting. 1. Operation of attenuating or
increasing the length per unit
weight of slivers, rovings, etc.
2. The order in which threads
are drawn through the heald
eyes before weaving. See also
Draw-ing-in.
3. See Draughting.
DRAG general See Fibre
cohesion
See Fibre cohesion
DRAGGED-IN
FILLING
defects See Pulled-in
filling
See Pulled-in filling
DRAGGING END defects Fabric defect Fabric defect. One or several
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Word Category
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description
Description
wales in a warp-knitted fabric in
which the laps appear shorter
than those in the adjacent
normal wales. It is usually
caused by excessive tension in
one or more warp yarns.
DRALON fibers, filaments,
yarns
Trade name for
an acrylic fibre
which is
mothproof, has
good resistance
to acids and
alkalis and is
unaffected by
sunlight.
Trade name for an acrylic fibre
which is mothproof, has good
resistance to acids and alkalis
and is unaffected by sunlight.
Washable, but absorbs hardly
any moisture and is therefore
quick-drying. Does not shrink or
felt or pill. May be blended with
other fibres. Used for upholstery
and furnishings, often as pile
fabrics, and for net curtaining.
See also Acrylic.
DRAPE fabrics The way a fabric
falls when hung.
The way a fabric falls when
hung. The quality of a fabric,
which permits it to mould
sufficiently to hang in pleasing
form and graceful folds when
hung or arranged in different
positions. The draping quality
varies with the structure,
composition and finish of the
fabric. It is indicative of the
flexibility and suppleness of a
fabric. Draping quality can be
measured by a device called
the Drapemeter
DRAPEMETER apparatus,
equipage, tools
See under
Drape.
See under Drape.
DRAPERY fabrics Decorative
fabrics for the
home
Decorative fabrics for the home
DRAUGHTING processes,
operations
In lace
production, the
conversion of a
design into
diagrammatic
form
In lace production, the
conversion of a design into
diagrammatic form preparatory
to punching of jacquard cards,
or assembly of pattern chains,
or preparation of magnetic tape.
DRAW CORD garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A cord, which
passes through
a channel and
allows the
A cord, which passes through a
channel and allows the garment
to be gathered.
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Word Category
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description
Description
garment to be
gathered.
DRAW RATIO fibers, filaments,
yarns
Machine draw
ratio, True draw
ratio, Residual
draw ratio,
Natural draw
ratio
Machine draw ratio: In a
drawing process, the ratio of the
peripheral speed of the draw
roller to that of the feed roller.
True draw ratio: In a drawing
process, the ratio of the linear
density of the undrawn yarn to
that of the drawn yarn.
Residual draw ratio: The draw
ratio required, in draw texturing,
to convert a partially oriented
yarn into a commercially
acceptable product.
Natural draw ratio: The ratio of
the cross-sectional areas of a
filament before and after the
neck when a synthetic filament
or film draws at a neck
DRAW SPINNING processes,
operations
A process for
spinning partially
or highly
oriented
filaments
A process for spinning partially
or highly oriented filaments in
which the orientation is
introduced prior to the first
forwarding or collecting device.
See also Spin-drawing and
High-speed spinning.
DRAW
TEXTURING
processes,
operations
A process in
which the
drawing stage of
man-made yarn
manufacture is
combined with
the texturing
process on a
single machine.
A process in which the drawing
stage of man-made yarn
manufacture is combined with
the texturing process on a
single machine. The drawing
and texturing stages may take
place in separate, usually
consecutive, zones of a
machine (sequential draw-
texturing) or together in the
same zone (simultaneous draw-
texturing).
DRAW THREAD accessories A thread
introduced
during knitting
which, on
removal,
separates
articles that
have been
1. IN KNITTING. A thread
introduced during knitting which,
on removal, separates articles
that have been knitted as a
succession of connected units.
2. IN LACE. Removable threads
included in the construction of
lace either to act as a temporary
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Word Category
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description
Description
knitted as a
succession of
connected units.
support for certain parts of the
pattern or to hold together
narrow widths or units, that are
sepa-rated subsequently by
their removal.
DRAW TWIST processes,
operations
To orient a
filament yarn by
drawing it and
then to twist it in
integrated
sequential
stages.
To orient a filament yarn by
drawing it and then to twist it in
integrated sequential stages.
DRAW-BACK defects Also called
Hitch-back.
Fabric defect
Also called Hitch-back. Fabric
defect. A weave distortion
characterised by tight and slack
places in the same warp yarn,
caused by excessive tension
gradually applied by some
abnormal restriction, and when
the restriction is removed, the
excess slack is woven into the
fabric. Usually the ends are
broken.
DRAW-DOWN processes,
operations
See Spin-stretch
ratio
See Spin-stretch ratio
DRAW-WIND processes,
operations
To orient a
filament yarn by
drawing it, and
then to wind it to
form a package
in an integrated
process without
imparting twist
To orient a filament yarn by
drawing it, and then to wind it to
form a package in an integrated
process without imparting twist.
DRAWING processes,
operations,
general
IN SPINNING,
the operation of
blending slivers
1. IN SPINNING, the operation
of blending slivers, levelling
them and drafting them to form
rov-ings. See also Yarn
spinning.
2. IN SYNTHETIC FILAMENTS
AND FILMS, the stretching to
near the limit of plastic flow of
syn-thetic filaments or films of
relatively low molecular
orientation. This process orients
the molecular chains in the
direction of stretching.
3. IN SEWING, the stitching
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Word Category
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description
Description
together of two edges to create
the appearance of being
seamed in the ordinary way.
Performed by alternately
passing the needle through
each folded edge and in-
terlining to draw the two edges
close together
DRAWING, COLD processes,
operations
The drawing of
synthetic
filaments or
films without the
intentional
application of
external heat
The drawing of synthetic
filaments or films without the
intentional application of
external heat. Free drawing of
filaments or films at a neck is
also referred to as a cold
drawing even though this may
be carried out in a heated
environment.
DRAWING, HOT processes,
operations
A term applied
to the drawing of
synthetic
filaments or
films
A term applied to the drawing of
synthetic filaments or films with
the intentional application of
heat.
DRAWING-IN processes,
operations,
seams, stitches
IN WEAVING.
The process of
drawing the
threads of the
warp through
the eyes of the
healds and the
dents of the
reed.
1. IN WEAVING. The process of
drawing the threads of the warp
through the eyes of the healds
and the dents of the reed. The
operation thus includes that of
reeding.
2. IN SEWING. A running stitch
drawn to achieve gathering or
gauging of the material. There
is also a form of drawing-in
used for the purpose of holding
folds in various forms on
garments as in the gowns of
barristers, childrens frocks, etc
DRAWN PIECE fabrics A piece of fabric
in which, as a
result of
distortion
A piece of fabric in which, as a
result of distortion during some
process subsequent to weaving,
the warp yarns are not at right
angles to the weft yarns.
DRAWN
SELVEDGE
defects See Tight
selvedge.
See Tight selvedge.
DRAWN WORK processes,
operations
A method of
decorating
fabrics by
drawing out
A method of decorating fabrics
by drawing out certain threads
and fastening the remaining
threads with fancy stitches into
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Word Category
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description
Description
certain threads
and fastening
the remaining
threads with
fancy stitches
into patterns.
patterns. Also made by drawing
some of the threads of the
fabric to one side, leaving
others or replacing drawn
threads by others of different
colours. Linen fabric is popular
for this type of work.
DRAWN YARN fibers, filaments,
yarns
Extruded yarn
that has been
subjected to a
stretching or
drawing process
Extruded yarn that has been
subjected to a stretching or
drawing process to orient the
long-chain molecules, which it is
composed of. See also
Orientation.
DRAWN-PILE
FINISH
processes,
operations
Also called Laid-
pile finish.
Also called Laid-pile finish.
Process of giving a finish to
textile fabrics to produce a
surface nap or pile that is laid in
one direction. The effect is
usually produced by raising the
wet or damp fabric. See also
Dress-face finish.
DRESDEN fabrics A small floral
design generally
on silk fabrics
A small floral design generally
on silk fabrics usually produced
by printed warps, in imitation of
delicate Dresden China.
DRESDEN POINT
LACE
fabrics Fine linen fabric Fine linen fabric with threads
withdrawn and embroidered to
form a square mesh design.
DRESS garments, made-
ups, assemblies,
processes,
operations
Clothing,
particularly
outerwea
1. Clothing, particularly
outerwear
2. A garment worn by women
and children
3. To finish fabric
4. To take dress from mens
trousers is to cut a section from
one side to make it fit as closely
as the other.
DRESS CAREER
APPAREL
garments, made-
ups, assemblies
Career apparel
which is not
generally
subject to
abusive wear
and for which
appearance is a
more important
attribute than
durability.
Career apparel which is not
generally subject to abusive
wear and for which appearance
is a more important attribute
than durability.
Fabrics for dress career apparel
are usually categorised as
follows:
I. Heavy weight fabrics, having
weight (mass) of 200 g/m2 and
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above, for which the typical
end-uses are: pants, suits,
waiter-type jackets, vests,
coveralls, etc.
II. Medium weight fabrics,
having weight (mass) of 150
g/m2 and above but less than
200 g/m2, for which the typical
end-uses are: pants, jackets,
dresses, shirts, blouse, gowns,
smocks, lab coats, etc.
III. Light weight fabrics, having
weight (mass) below 150 g/m2,
for which the typical end-uses
are: tops (shirts and blouses),
dresses, etc.
See Career apparel and
Vocational career apparel
DRESS GLOVE garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A covering for
the hand
A covering for the hand, often
extending part way up the arm,
worn primarily for formal or
dress-type occasions.
DRESS SHIRT garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A shirt made
with a specific
collar size
1. FOR BOYS. A shirt made
with a specific collar size or
numerical size and designed to
be worn with a tie and jacket.
2. FOR MEN. A shirt made with
a specific collar size and sleeve
length where appropriate, and
designed to be worn with a tie
and jacket.
DRESS-FACE
FINISH
processes,
operations
In wool fabrics,
a finish
characterised by
a closely
cropped surface
and high lustre.
In wool fabrics, a finish
characterised by a closely
cropped surface and high lustre.
This is obtained partly by raising
and cropping and partly by the
high degree of regularity of the
lie of the fibres.
DRESSER SIZING processes,
operations
See under
Scotch dressing.
See under Scotch dressing.
DRESSING processes,
operations
IN WARP
PREPARATION.
The operation of
assembling of
yarns from a ball
warp, beam
warp, or chain
1. IN WARP PREPARATION.
The operation of assembling of
yarns from a ball warp, beam
warp, or chain warp on a beam
immediately prior to weaving.
See also Scotch dressing and
Yorkshire dressing.
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description
Description
warp 2. IN LACE. The operation of
stretching lace, net, or lace-
furnishing products to size, and
then drying after the application
of stiffening or softening agents.
The stretching and drying may
be carried out on either a
running stenter or a stationary
frame.
3. See Sizing.
DRILL fabrics A strong, thick,
hardwearing twill
weave fabric,
usually cotton,
similar to denim
but better in
quality and
smoother in
appearance,
made in various
weights.
A strong, thick, hardwearing
twill weave fabric, usually
cotton, similar to denim but
better in quality and smoother in
appearance, made in various
weights.
Made in warp faced twill
weaves such as 3 x 1, and 2 x
1, as in denim but also made in
satin weave. The commonest
fabric known as drill is made in
white, khaki and various plain
dark working colours and in
striped styles for protective
clothing, tropical clothing,
uniforms, and for leisure wear.
Some cotton fabrics sold as
gaberdines for dress wear are
actually drills.
DRILLING processes,
operations
Marking key
positions such
as pockets and
darts
Marking key positions such as
pockets and darts through all
thickness of a lay by use of a
drilling machine, or similar
machine with a hollow needle.
DRIP-DRY processes,
operations
A method of
drying wash-
and-wear
fabrics.
A method of drying wash-and-
wear fabrics. After washing,
garment is hung up dripping wet
and allowed to drain. Usually
requires little or no ironing after
drying in this manner.
DROP garments, made-
ups, assemblies
That part of a
bedcovering that
hangs
perpendicular to
the floor.
That part of a bedcovering that
hangs perpendicular to the
floor.
DROP FEED apparatus,
equipage, tools
In sewing
machine, a feed
In sewing machine, a feed that
alternately engages and
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description
Description
that alternately
engages and
disengages the
underside of the
material.
disengages the underside of the
material.
DROP LOOP garments, made-
ups, assemblies
A method of
lowering the belt
loop below the
top of the
trouser waist
band (usually 1
to 2 cm.) or
dress waist
A method of lowering the belt
loop below the top of the trouser
waist band (usually 1 to 2 cm.)
or dress waist. This method
prevents the belt from riding
above the waist.
DROP PLY defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Warp or weft yarn
does not have the correct or
uniform number of plies; caused
by faulty twisting or mixed
bobbins.
DROP SHOULDER garments, made-
ups, assemblies
The shape of
the junction
between the
sleeve and the
body of a
garment
The shape of the junction
between the sleeve and the
body of a garment, where the
junction runs between the
underarm point and a position
below the extreme end of the
shoulder, i.e. on the upper arm
itself
DROP WIRE apparatus,
equipage, tools
Also called
Dropper.
Also called Dropper. One of a
series of wire or metal strips
suspended on individual warp
threads during warping or
weaving. When the thread
breaks, the drop wire falls,
causing the ma-chine to stop.
DROPPED PICK defects Fabric defect,
major.
Fabric defect, major. The defect
is caused by the weft insertion
mechanism on a shuttleless
loom not holding the weft yarn
resulting in the weft to be woven
without tension. The weft yarn
then is woven into the yarn
appearing as kinky. There will
also be areas of End-out
DROPPED
STITCHES
defects Fabric defect,
major, in knitted
fabric.
Fabric defect, major, in knitted
fabric. An unknitted stitch,
resulting from malfunctioning
needle or jack. Will appear as
holes or missing stitches. See
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description
Description
also Run.
DROPPER apparatus,
equipage, tools
See Drop wire See Drop wire
DRUG See Mordant. See Mordant.
DRY BEATING processes,
operations
See also
Beating.
A finishing process consisting of
gently brushing fabrics on a
teazle gig. See also Beating.
DRY FINISHING processes,
operations
A general term,
applied to any
fabric finishing
process
A general term, applied to any
fabric finishing process which is
accomplished in a dry state,
e.g. brushing, napping,
shearing, gigging, perching,
specking, burling, sewing, and
pressing.
DRY HEAT-
SETTING
processes,
operations
See under Heat-
setting.
See under Heat-setting.
DRY SPINNING processes,
operations
In man-made
fibre production,
the process of
extruding the
solution of a
fibre-forming
polymer through
a spinneret
In man-made fibre production,
the process of extruding the
solution of a fibre-forming
polymer through a spinneret
into a hot chamber, heated by
steam or hot air; the solvent
evaporates leaving the solid
filaments. See also Wet
spinning and Melt spinning
DRY TAPING processes,
operations
See under
Scotch dressing.
See under Scotch dressing.
DRY-COMBED
TOP
fibers, filaments,
yarns
A wool top
containing not
more than 1 %
of fatty matter
based on the
oven-dry fat-free
weight.
A wool top containing not more
than 1 % of fatty matter based
on the oven-dry fat-free weight.
The standard regain of a dry-
combed top is 18.25 % based
on the combined weight of
oven-dry fat-free wool and the
fatty matter
DRY-LAID
NONWOVEN
fabrics A fabric made
from a web or
batt by dry
laying
A fabric made from a web or
batt by dry laying, followed by
any type of bonding process
DRY-LAYING processes,
operations
A process for
forming web or
batt of staple
fibres
A process for forming web or
batt of staple fibres by carding
and/or air laying.
DRY-SPUN fibers, filaments,
yarns
A man-made
filament
produced by dry
1. A worsted yarn produced
from a dry-combed top or of
synthetic or blended yarns spun
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Word Category
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description
Description
spinning. on similar machinery.
2. A coarse flax yarn spun from
air-dry roving. See also Wet-
spun.
3. A man-made filament
produced by dry spinning.
DRYCLEANING processes,
operations
The process
was originally
known as
French cleaning.
The process was originally
known as French cleaning. To
remove grease, oil, and dirt
from garments or fabrics by
treating them in an organic
solvent, as distinct from
aqueous liquors. Some of the
suitable solvents are white
spirit, trichloroethylene and
tetrachloroethylene
(perchloroethylene). The
process also includes adding
detergent and moisture to the
solvent to 75 % relative
humidity, and hot tumble drying
to 71 C (160 F). This process
consists of cleaning, rinsing,
spinning and drying.
DRYER CREASES defects Sharp folds or
lines running in
any direction in
a laundered or
dried textile
specimen
Sharp folds or lines running in
any direction in a laundered or
dried textile specimen. Dryer
creases are unintended result of
restricted movement of the
textile specimens in the washer
or the dryer
DRYING
CYLINDER
apparatus,
equipage, tools
Heated, rotating
hollow
cylinder(s)
around which
textile material is
passed in
contact to dry it.
Heated, rotating hollow
cylinder(s) around which textile
material is passed in contact to
dry it. It may consist of a series
of cylinders with which the
material is in contact on
alternate faces or, by the use of
auxiliary rollers, one face only of
the material is arranged to
touch the surface of the
cylinder. Large single cylinders
are also used for faced cloths,
to avoid flattening the surface or
raised threads on one side, and
for drying backfilled cloths
DUCHESSE LACE fabrics A bar lace with a A bar lace with a design of
251
Word Category
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description
Description
design of bands
or tapes
bands or tapes, which is very
fine and is worked with fine
threads. Very old type of bobbin
lace.
DUCHESSE SATIN fabrics See under Satin. See under Satin.
DUCK fabrics A compact, firm,
heavy fabric of
canvas-like
appearance
made from
cotton or linen in
plain weave.
A compact, firm, heavy fabric of
canvas-like appearance made
from cotton or linen in plain
weave. The warp yarns are in
pairs and form a distinctive
effect. Used for sails, awnings,
etc. See also Flat duck, Plied
yarn duck and Canvas.
DUCK EYE defects See Pinhole. See Pinhole.
DUFFEL fabrics Also called
Duffle. Originally
made in Duffel,
Antwerp
Also called Duffle. Originally
made in Duffel, Antwerp. A
heavy low-grade fabric, napped
on both sides, made from
woollen yarn, generally made
up for short coats referred to as
duffel coats. See also Flushing
DUFFLE fabrics See Duffel. See Duffel.
DULL general, fibers,
filaments, yarns
See under
Delustred.
1. Lacking in lustre.
2. See under Delustred.
DULL RAYON fibers, filaments,
yarns
See Delustred See Delustred
DULLNESS seams, stitches it is the opposite
of Bright
That colour quality, an increase
in which is comparable to the
effect of the addition of a small
quantity of neutral grey colorant;
it is the opposite of Bright
DUMMY apparatus,
equipage, tools
A padded frame,
shaped like a
human torso,
usually mounted
on a pedestal
A padded frame, shaped like a
human torso, usually mounted
on a pedestal. A tailors or
dressmakers stand See Bust.
DUMMY-SHUTTLE apparatus,
equipage, tools
See Missile
Loom under
Shuttleless
looms.
See Missile Loom under
Shuttleless looms.
DUNGAREE fabrics, garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
FABRIC.
Hardwearing,
3/1 or 2/1 cotton
twill fabric
similar to denim,
but the warp and
1. FABRIC. Hardwearing, 3/1 or
2/1 cotton twill fabric similar to
denim, but the warp and the
weft are usually in the same
colour. Some are piece dyed,
but better qualities are made
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description
Description
the weft are
usually in the
same colour
from dyed warp and weft yarns.
Used for overalls, jeans,
dungarees and childrens
clothes. See also Denim.
2. GARMENT. Trousers made
from denim and designed for
general heavy work wear
DUNGING processes,
operations
In dyeing and
printing, the
removal of
surplus mordant
In dyeing and printing, the
removal of surplus mordant by
means of immersion in a bath of
dung; old method.
DUPION fabrics See Doupion. See Doupion.
DUPLEX
PRINTING
processes,
operations
A method of
printing in which
both sides of the
cloth receive the
pattern
A method of printing in which
both sides of the cloth receive
the pattern; either at the same
time or one side immediately
after the other.
DURABILITY fibers, filaments,
yarns
See under Fibre
properties.
See under Fibre properties.
DURABLE FINISH processes,
operations
A finish which
will retain its
characteristics
and remain
inherent
A finish which will retain its
characteristics and remain
inherent, to a large degree, in
the fabric through ordinary
household washings, wet
cleaning and dry cleaning for
the life of the goods.
DURABLE
GLAZING
processes,
operations
A fabric finish,
that imparts a
reasonably
durable glazing
to cottons,
A fabric finish, that imparts a
reasonably durable glazing to
cottons, by the use of synthetic
resins.
DURABLE PRESS fabrics, garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A finishing
treatment
designed to
impart to a
textile material
or garment the
ability to retain
substantially the
specific contours
A finishing treatment designed
to impart to a textile material or
garment the ability to retain
substantially the specific
contours including shape,
creases, pressed-in pleats,
seams, and unwrinkled
appearance during normal
usage, washing and/or dry
cleaning.
The treatment may involve the
use of synthetic resin which
may be applied and cured either
be-fore or after fabrication of a
garment, or, in the case of
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Word Category
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description
Description
textiles composed of heat-
settable fibres, high
temperature pressing.
See also Permanent press.
DURACOLOUR processes,
operations
Trade name for
a process
applied to
curtain fabrics
Trade name for a process
applied to curtain fabrics which
guarantees that they will not
fade. .
DURAFILL fibers, filaments,
yarns
The trade name
for a strong
viscose staple
fibre
The trade name for a strong
viscose staple fibre, which is
made extra strong.
DUST RESISTANT fabrics A fabric very
densely and
tightly woven
A fabric very densely and tightly
woven or chemically treated so
that it resists dust penetration.
DUST RUFFLE accessories A fabric which
has a pleated,
tucked, or
gather drop to
the floor
1. A fabric which lies flat over
the box spring under the
mattress on a bed, and
2. A fabric which has a pleated,
tucked, or gather drop to the
floor.
DUSTING general The tendency of
particles of
sufficiently low
mass to become
airborne
The tendency of particles of
sufficiently low mass to become
airborne when a powder
material is handled or agitated.
DUSTING OFF processes,
operations
The involuntary
removal of
particulate
material (e.g.
size) from yarn
The involuntary removal of
particulate material (e.g. size)
from yarn during processing.
DUTCH TAPE accessories A tape made
from linen warp
and cotton weft
A tape made from linen warp
and cotton weft, sometimes with
cotton selvedges.
DUVETYNE fabrics Similar to
doeskin but
more velvety
and lighter in
weight.
Similar to doeskin but more
velvety and lighter in weight.
The soft, velvet-like surface is
made by napping, then shearing
and brushing, the right side.
The weave is twill and usually
wool but may be other fibres
too. Used for womens clothes
and hats.
DYE A colorant
applied to or
formed in a
A colorant applied to or formed
in a substrate, via the
molecularly dispersed state,
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Word Category
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description
Description
substrate, via
the molecularly
dispersed state,
which exhibits
some degree of
performance.
which exhibits some degree of
performance. A substance,
which can be applied to a
material and brings about a
permanent change in the
original colour of that material.
Dyes may be either natural or
synthetic and differ in
effectiveness and methods of
application. There are many
classes of dyes. Refer for
individual class of dye under
their particular class name
DYE AFFINITY See Affinity See Affinity
DYE FIXING
AGENT
fabrics A substance,
generally
organic, applied
to a dyed or
printed material
to improve its
fastness to wet
treatments.
A substance, generally organic,
applied to a dyed or printed
material to improve its fastness
to wet treatments.
DYE MARK defects See Dye streak. See Dye streak.
DYE SPOT See Dye streak. See Dye streak.
DYE STAIN defects An area of
unlimited
discoloration
An area of unlimited
discoloration due to unven
absorption of a colorant.
DYE STREAK defects Dyeing/printing
defect. Also
called Dye mark.
Dyeing/printing defect. Also
called Dye mark.
1. DYEING DEFECT. An
unintended irregular
discoloration in a fabric,
resulting due to uneven
absorption of a colorant during
dyeing.
2. PRINTING DEFECT. An
unintended irregular
discoloration in a fabric,
resulting from a bent or
damaged doctor blade or a
doctor blade not cleaned
properly during printing. Usually
it will ap-pear as a long streak
until operator notices the
problem
DYE-BOARDING processes, See under See under Boarding.
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Word Category
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description
Description
operations Boarding.
DYE-PASTE See Print-paste. See Print-paste.
DYED STYLE
PRINTING
processes,
operations
A way of
patterning cloth
in which the
design is
painted or
printed in
mordant and
subsequently
dyed.
A way of patterning cloth in
which the design is painted or
printed in mordant and
subsequently dyed. Only those
areas so mordanted take the
colour in a fast form.
DYEING processes,
operations
Application of a
dye to a
substrate
Application of a dye to a
substrate normally with the
intention of obtaining an even
distribution throughout the
substrate; the process of
colouring fibres, yarns or
fabrics.
DYESTUFFS The name given
to materials,
solutions, or
matters that can
colour textiles.
The name given to materials,
solutions, or matters that can
colour textiles.
Dyestuffs may be classed
according to their origin; animal
dyes, vegetable dyes, mineral
dyes, and synthetic.
A dyestuff imparts coloration to
the material onto which it is
affixed, by the discriminate ab-
sorption of light, i.e. the dyestuff
selectively retainin some of the
wavelengths out of the light
falling upon the surface.
Hence, if a dye absorbs strongly
at the red end of the spectrum,
the reflected light will be of a
bluish hue. Only a limited
number of organic molecules
have this property of absorbing
light discriminately.
Animal and vegetable dyes
have always been used. But
these dyes are limited in range
and ap-plication of natural dyes
need extensive pretreatments
with mordants. Now most
natural dyes have been
replaced by synthetic dyes.
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Word Category
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description
Description
Dyestuffs are made from
synthetic organic chemicals.
These are called dye
intermediates, as they are
made from basic chemicals
such as benzene, naphthalene,
anthracene, etc.
They are intermediates lying
between basic chemicals and
the final dyestuffs:
Basic hemicals intermediates
Dyestuffs
The intermediates are
substituted products of the of
the basic chemicals obtained by
introducing sulphonic, nitro,
chloro, bromo, amino and other
groups in place of hydrogen
atoms of the basic chemicals.
Many of the reactions such as
sulphonation, nitration,
chlorination, etc., result in the
formation of more than one
product, depending on the
reaction conditions. When one
of the de-sired intermediate is
made, it is accompanied by
some amount of other
unintended intermedi-ates also.
Thus, when the desired
intermediate form a desired
colour, the unintended
intermediates form dyes of
different but unintended colours
too. If these by-products are
formed in different amounts in
different batches, there would
be corresponding batch-to-
batch variation in the hue of the
resulting dyestuffs. However,
the dyestuff manufacturer
markets a commercial dyestuff
having a standardised hue by
adding a toning dyestuff to the
batch. A commercial dyestuff of
any particular manufacturer
contains the principal colorant
(formed from the main
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Word Category
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description
Description
intermedi-ate), an auxiliary
colorant (formed from the
impurity accompanying the
main intermediate), and if
necessary, a toning colorant.
The commercial naming of
dyestuffs is done in a
systematic fashion which
include the follow-ing details in
sequential order: Producers
brand name - Colour -
Designatory letters defining
shade - Strength - and Physical
form.
DYNEL fibers, filaments,
yarns
Trade name for
a polyvinyl
chloride type
fibre, which has
the advantage
of being flame-
resistant.
Trade name for a polyvinyl
chloride type fibre, which has
the advantage of being flame-
resistant. It has a warm handle
and bulks well, and is often
used in fur fabrics. It is spun
from a copolymer of vinyl
chloride (60 %) and acrylonitrile
(40 %). By definition it is a
modacrylic fibre. See also
Acrylic

E

Word Category Short description Description
ECCENTRIC
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A type of fancy yarn. A type of fancy yarn. It is an
undulating gimp yarn,
usually produced by binding
an irregular yarn, such as a
stripe or slub, in the direction
opposite to the initial stage,
to create graduated half-
circular loops along the
compound yarn.
CRU fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
The colour of fibres, yarns,
or fabrics that have not
been subjected to
processes affecting their
natural colour.
The colour of fibres, yarns,
or fabrics that have not been
subjected to processes
affecting their natural colour.
EFFECT
THREADS
fabrics In a fabric, yarns inserted
to form a surface effect or
In a fabric, yarns inserted to
form a surface effect or
258
Word Category Short description Description
enhance a pattern. enhance a pattern.
EGG SHELL
FINISHING
processes,
operations
Creating a dappled finish
on fabric by running it
through rollers
Creating a dappled finish on
fabric by running it through
rollers engraved with minute
depressions and elevations,
which break up the reflection
of light.
EGYPTIAN
COTTON
fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
Yarn. Fine, top quality
cotton originally from the
Nile region.
1. Yarn. Fine, top quality
cotton originally from the Nile
region. A type of extra long
staple cotton fibre. Average
fibre length 38-44 mm.;
lustrous, natural colour; to be
bleached. 2. Fabric. Made
from Egyptian cotton fibres.
Plain weave soft cotton
fabrics, may be plain or
printed. Dyes well. Very
strong and hardwearing, but
soft to touch. Used for
expensive baby clothes,
blouses, summer dresses,
nightwear.
ELASTANE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Generic name of a
manufactured fibre, which
stretches easily and has a
high rate of recovery.
Generic name of a
manufactured fibre, which
stretches easily and has a
high rate of recovery. It is
composed of synthetic linear
macromolecules having in
the chain at least 85 % (by
mass) of segmented
polyurethane groups, and
that rapidly reverts
substantially to its
unstretched length after
extension to three times that
length. Elastane fibres
typically contain hard (highly
inextensible) segments
alternating with soft (highly
extensible) segments in the
molecular chain. All textile
fibres possess some stretch,
varying from the low stretch
of flax and cotton to the high
stretch of wool and nylon.
Very few fibres stretch more
than 50 % under any
259
Word Category Short description Description
circumstances without
breaking, and even then
recovery is neither complete
nor instantaneous. The high
stretch and quick recovery of
rubber has been integrated
with normal textile use for a
long time but the lack of
durability of rubber,
particularly to washing with
synthetic detergents, was
always disappointing.
ELASTIC FABRIC fabrics A textile fabric made from
an elastomer either alone
or in combination with
other textile materials.
A textile fabric made from an
elastomer either alone or in
combination with other textile
materials. At room
temperature an elastic fabric
will stretch under tension
and will return quickly and
forcibly to substantially its
original dimensions and
shape when tension is
remocved. Elastic fabrics
may be manufactured by
weaving, braiding, knitting,
or other processes.
ELASTICITY general The property of material to
deform (usually to
elongate) in proportion to
the load applied
The property of material to
deform (usually to elongate)
in proportion to the load
applied and to recover its
original shape when the load
is release, i.e. the property of
a material by virtue of which
it tends to recover its original
size and shape immediately
after removal of the force
causing deformation.
ELASTODIENE
FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured fibre
composed of natural or
synthetic polyisoprene
A manufactured fibre
composed of natural or
synthetic polyisoprene, or
composed of one or more
dienes polymerised with or
without one or more vinyl
monomers, and which, when
stretched to three times its
original length and released,
recovers rapidly and
substantially to its initial
260
Word Category Short description Description
length.
ELASTOMERIC
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn formed from an
elastomer.
A yarn formed from an
elastomer. Elastomeric yarn
may either be incorporated
into fabric in the bare state
or wrapped with relatively
inextensible fibres. Wrapping
is done by covering, core
spinning or uptwisting.
Elastan and elastodiene
yarns are examples.
ELECTROSTATIC
FLOCKING
processes,
operations
The process of applying
flock to an adhesive-
coated substrate in a high-
voltage electrostatic field.
The process of applying
flock to an adhesive-coated
substrate in a high-voltage
electrostatic field.
ELECTROSTATIC
PRINTING
processes,
operations
This is an experimental
textile printing technique.
A plate with an elecrtostatic
charge is positioned behind
the fabric and a stencil to
attract powdered inks into
the fabric. Suitable dyes
must be in powdered form.
This is an experimental
textile printing technique.
ELONGATED
TWILL
fabrics Steep twills which run at
an angle greater than 45.
Steep twills which run at an
angle greater than 45.
These are ordinary twills,
which are changed either by
the weave or structure to
produce the more vertical or
horizontal twill. Term is
sometimes used for twills
with an angle less than 45.
EMBOSSED
SATIN
fabrics Any satin-weave fabric
that has a pattern
impressed upon it.
Any satin-weave fabric that
has a pattern impressed
upon it. Usually only heavier
satins are treated this way,
and the embossing is now
invariably permanent.
Popular wedding-gown
fabric.
EMBOSSING processes,
operations
A finishing process to
produce a pattern on a
fabric
A finishing process to
produce a pattern on a fabric
by passing it through a
calender in which a heated
metal bowl engraved with
the pattern works against a
relatively soft bowl built up of
compressed paper or cotton
261
Word Category Short description Description
on a metal centre.
EMBROIDERY fabrics Description came
originally from an old
English word meaning
border
Description came originally
from an old English word
meaning border, and was
used for early decoration on
ecclesiastical robes, which
were, presumably, worked in
border designs. Now used
for decorative fabrics, mostly
lightweight, on which
embroidery is worked in
contrasting or matching
colours, often in yarn of a
different fibre from the fabric,
including metal, which may
create washing and pressing
problems. The fabrics vary
considerably in fibre content
and weight and also in width.
Some may be washable but
most are not. Used mainly
for saris and eveningwear.
EMERIZED
FABRIC
fabrics A chamois or suede
textured surface
A chamois or suede textured
surface produced by an
emery-covered roller on
Worsted, Serge, etc.
EMERY CLOTH fabrics A strong cotton or linen
fabric coated with fine,
powdered emery.
A strong cotton or linen
fabric coated with fine,
powdered emery. Used for
abrasive purposes and
polishing.
EMULSION
SPINNING
processes,
operations
The spinning of synthetic
polymers in dispersed
form
The spinning of synthetic
polymers in dispersed form,
then heating to bring
together the dispersed
(separated) particles.
Generally a matrix polymer
provides support until the
process is complete.
EMULSION
THICKENING
chemicals,
textile
auxiliaries
A thickening made from a
suspension of white spirit
in water.
A thickening made from a
suspension of white spirit in
water.
END fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
1. In weaving. An
individual warp thread. 2.
In spinning, braiding. An
individual strand. 3. In
fabric. A length of finished
fabric less than a
1. In weaving. An individual
warp thread. 2. In spinning,
braiding. An individual
strand. 3. In fabric. A length
of finished fabric less than a
customary unit (piece) in
262
Word Category Short description Description
customary unit (piece) in
length, or sometimes a
very short length remnant
of fabric. 4. In finishing. (a)
Each passage of a length
of fabric through a
machine, e.g. in jig dyeing.
(b) A joint between pieces
of fabric due, e.g. to
damage or short lengths in
weaving or damage in
bleaching, dyeing, or
finishing.
length, or sometimes a very
short length remnant of
fabric. 4. In finishing. (a)
Each passage of a length of
fabric through a machine,
e.g. in jig dyeing. (b) A joint
between pieces of fabric
due, e.g. to damage or short
lengths in weaving or
damage in bleaching,
dyeing, or finishing.
END-USE general The final use for which a
fibre, fabric, or finish is
intended.
The final use for which a
fibre, fabric, or finish is
intended.
ENGRAVING processes,
operations
In printing: 1. The incising
of lines in a metal or other
surface by means of a
Graver or Burin. 2. In the
textile trade this term is
still used even when the
pattern rollers are
produced by etching or by
pressure from the raised
surface of a mill in
engraving machine
In printing: 1. The incising of
lines in a metal or other
surface by means of a
Graver or Burin. 2. In the
textile trade this term is still
used even when the pattern
rollers are produced by
etching or by pressure from
the raised surface of a mill
in engraving machine
ENTANGLEMENT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The extent or degree to
which the filaments in a
yarn are interlocked
The extent or degree to
which the filaments in a yarn
are interlocked and cannot
be readily separated.
ENZYMES chemicals,
textile
auxiliaries
These are complex
nitrogenous substances of
proteinaceous type, which
catalyse various reactions
of a biochemical nature.
Enzymes, despite their
derivation from living
materials, are not living
organisms themselves.
These are complex
nitrogenous substances of
proteinaceous type, which
catalyse various reactions of
a biochemical nature. Some
of these reactions take place
in living organisms, but
others occur in non-living
organisms. There are
different types of enzymes,
e.g. those enzymes which
might be of use in
detergents; viz. proteases
263
Word Category Short description Description
which break down proteins
to amino acids, or
intermediate compounds,
amylases which break down
starches, lipases which
attack fats, and oils, etc.,
cellulases which break down
cellulosic materials and
pectases which hydrolyse
pectins. Enzymes are
relatively cost-effective,
pollution-free means of
treating cellulosic fabrics for
dehairing, pill-preventing and
handle modification. Many
enzyme preparations have
been developed for various
textile processes, e.g. those
used in the desizing process,
those used in denim stone
wash (biostoning) and acid
patching process to cut
partially and/or completely
the use of pumice stones or
ceramic pebbles, or those
used in enzymatic finishing
process (biofinishing), and in
surface modification
(biopolishing) of
smoothening fabric surface
for extra soft handle or
develop faded looks
ENZYMING processes,
operations
Treatment with one of a
series of complex organic
substances that cause
chemical breakdown of
the impurities in cotton
cloth.
Treatment with one of a
series of complex organic
substances that cause
chemical breakdown of the
impurities in cotton cloth.
EPITROPIC
FIBRES
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
These are fibres, which
conduct electricity and can
thus be used to produce
fabrics, which never
develop a high static
charge.
These are fibres, which
conduct electricity and can
thus be used to produce
fabrics, which never develop
a high static charge. In an
epitropic fibre very fine
particles of carbon, a good
electrical conductor, are
embedded in the surface of
synthetic fibres. Epitropic
fibres are thus black due to
264
Word Category Short description Description
the carbon, but only very
small quantities- sometimes
as little as one part in 500 -
of epitropic fibre are required
to conduct away static, they
are not easily seen. Nylon
and polyester are available
in epitropic form. The
epitropic nylon can be used
in carpets to prevent static
build-up and the modified
polyester is suitable for
industrial clothing where
there is a danger of
explosion.
PONGE fabrics Woollen or cotton fabric. Woollen or cotton fabric.
Sometimes open-textured,
and as the name implies,
spongy to feel, and is light in
weight in comparison with its
thickness. Used for dresses,
childrens dresses, robes,
and sports shirts.


F

Word Category Short description Description
FABRIC fabrics An assembly of
fibres and/or yarns,
which is generally in
a sheet-like form
An assembly of fibres and/or
yarns, which is generally in a
sheet-like form. Also known
as cloth. A planar structure
consisting of yarns or fibres.
There are different types of
fabric based on their
manufacturing processes,
mainly Woven, Knitted,
Braided, Lace (or Net), Felt
and Non-woven
FABRIC AIR-
CONDITIONING
processes,
operations
A chemical process
in which short fuzzy
fibres are sealed into
a yarn or are
removed from the
cloth to make the
fabric more porous.
A chemical process in which
short fuzzy fibres are sealed
into a yarn or are removed
from the cloth to make the
fabric more porous. The
strength of the fabric is not
impaired. A porous fabric
265
Word Category Short description Description
permits a circulation of air and
therefore is cooler.
FABRIC
CONSTRUCTION
fabrics The term describes
the organisation of
components and in
weaving it describes
the weave.
Also called Fabric structure.
The term describes the
organisation of components
and in weaving it describes
the weave.
FABRIC COUNT fabrics See Count in fabric. See Count in fabric..
FABRIC DESIGN fabrics See Design in
fabrics.
See Design in fabrics.
FABRIC DIP In tyre fabrics, a
chemical
composition that is
applied to a textile
cord or fabric to
improve its adhesion
to rubber compounds
In tyre fabrics, a chemical
composition that is applied to
a textile cord or fabric to
improve its adhesion to rubber
compounds
FABRIC
EXTENSION
fabrics The amount by
which a fabric
extends
The amount by which a fabric
extends, usually under load
and in the direction of that
load.
FABRIC FINISH processes,
operations
See Fabric finishing. See Fabric finishing.
FABRIC FINISHING processes,
operations
Chemical and other
treatments used to
modify the fabric to
make it more
capable of fulfilling
its function
Chemical and other
treatments used to modify the
fabric to make it more capable
of fulfilling its function. The
term is used to cover all
operations following
bleaching, dyeing or printing.
Some of the important
finishing processes are
Calendering, Brushing,
Raising, Starching, etc. Other
special finishes have been
devised to make a fabric more
attractive, to give it some
desirable property it would not
otherwise possess, or to
correct some defect in it.
There are many types of
finishes, which alter the fabric
appearance, alter the handle
of the fabric alter the draping
quality of the fabric, help the
fabric to keep its size and
shape or make it more
266
Word Category Short description Description
serviceable.
FABRIC LENGTH fabrics The distance from
one end of a fabric to
the other
The distance from one end of
a fabric to the other measured
parallel to the side edge of the
fabric while it is under zero
tension and is free of folds or
wrinkles.
FABRIC
PERFORMANCE
CHARACTERISTICS
fabrics The performance
specification
requirements for
fabrics, meant for
various end uses,
are usually guided by
the internationally
approved Standard
performance
specifications.
The performance specification
requirements for fabrics,
meant for various end uses,
are usually guided by the
internationally approved
Standard performance
specifications. Generally, the
main performance
characteristics which, are
tested on fabrics are:
Absorbency, Bow and
skewness, Breaking strength
(in both directions), Bursting
strength (in both directions),
Colourfastness to burnt gas
fumes, Colourfastness to
crocking, Colourfastness to
chlorinated pool water,
Colourfastness to dry-
cleaning, Colourfastness to
frosting (flat abrasion)m,
Colourfastness to laundering,
Colourfastness to light,
Colourfastness to ozone,
Colourfastness to
perspiration, Colourfastness
to sea water, Colourfastness
to solvent, Colourfastness to
water, Dimensional change to
dry-cleaning, Dimensional
change to laundering,
Dimensional change to
pressing, Distortion of yarn,
Durability of back coating,
Fabric appearance rating,
Flammability, Laundered
appearance, Light
degradation, Non-fibrous
material, Pilling resistance,
Retention of hand, Retention
of character, Retention of
appearance, Soil release,
267
Word Category Short description Description
Surface abrasion, Tear
strength (in both directions),
Thermal transmittance, Water
repellence, Water resistance,
Yarn distortion and yarn
slippage resistance.
FABRIC
PERFORMANCE
CRTS
fabrics The performance
specification
requirements for
fabrics, meant for
various end uses,
are usually guided by
the internationally
approved Standard
performance
specifications
The performance specification
requirements for fabrics,
meant for various end uses,
are usually guided by the
internationally approved
Standard performance
specifications. Generally, the
main performance
characteristics which, are
tested on fabrics are:
Absorbency
Bow and skewness
Breaking strength (in both
directions)
Bursting strength (in both
directions)
Colourfastness to burnt gas
fumes
Colourfastness to crocking
Colourfastness to chlorinated
pool water
Colourfastness to dry-cleaning
Colourfastness to frosting (flat
abrasion)
Colourfastness to laundering
Colourfastness to light
Colourfastness to ozone
Colourfastness to perspiration
Colourfastness to sea water
Colourfastness to solvent
Colourfastness to water
Dimensional change to dry-
cleaning
Dimensional change to
laundering
Dimensional change to
pressing
Distortion of yarn
Durability of back coating
Fabric appearance rating
Flammability
Laundered appearance
Light degradation
268
Word Category Short description Description
Non-fibrous material
Pilling resistance
Retention of hand
Retention of character
Retention of appearance
Soil release
Surface abrasion
Tear strength (in both
directions)
Thermal transmittance
Water repellence
Water resistance
Yarn distortion
yarn slippage resistance
FABRIC PORES fabrics Orifices in the fabric. Orifices in the fabric. Open
pores make for absorbency;
when pores become closed
with soil, absorbency is
affected.
FABRIC ROOF
SYSTEM
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A system of coated
fabric or laminated
fabric along with
support cables
A system of coated fabric or
laminated fabric along with
support cables, edge ropes,
clamps, neoprene, roof drains,
arch wear strips, and anchor
bolts that constitutes the
outside top covering of a
building.
FABRIC SOFTNERS chemicals,
textile
auxiliaries
Chemical
compounds usually
added to the final
rinse, for improving
the soft feel of
fabrics
Chemical compounds usually
added to the final rinse, for
improving the soft feel of
fabrics
FABRIC STABILITY fabrics In fabrics, the
property denoting the
ability to resist
slippage of yarn
segments in one
direction over yarn
segments in the
opposite direction.
(Compare Stable
fabric.)
In fabrics, the property
denoting the ability to resist
slippage of yarn segments in
one direction over yarn
segments in the opposite
direction. (Compare Stable
fabric.)
FABRIC STRETCH fabrics The increase in
length of a specimen
of a fabric
The increase in length of a
specimen of a fabric resulting
from a load applied under
specified condi-tions.
FABRIC fabrics See Fabric See Fabric construction.
269
Word Category Short description Description
STRUCTURE construction.
FABRIC WEIGHT fabrics Mass per unit area Mass per unit area expressed
in grams per square metre
(ounces per square yard),
grams per linear metre
(ounces per linear yard), or
inversely as meters per
kilogram (linear yards per
pound), or square meters per
kilogram (square yards per
pound).
FACE I That side of a fabric,
which is intended to be shown
by reason of weave or finish,
presents a better appearance.
In many fabrics, especially
industrial ones there are no
distinction between face and
back.
FABRIC WEIGHT
CONVERSION
FORMULA
fabrics See under Fabric
weight.
See under Fabric weight.
FABRIC WIDTH fabrics WIDTH OF A
FABRIC. It is the
distance from the
outer edge of one
selvedge to the outer
edge of the other
selvedge
1. WIDTH OF A FABRIC. It is
the distance from the outer
edge of one selvedge to the
outer edge of the other
selvedge, measured
perpendicular to the
selvedges while the fabrics is
held under zero tension and is
free of folds and wrinkles.
2. WIDTH OF A FABRIC
WOVEN ON A
SHUTTLELESS LOOM. It is
the distance from the outer
warp on one side to the outer
warp on the other side,
measured perpendicular to
the warp yarns while the fab-
ric is held under zero tension
and is free of folds and
wrinkles.
3. WIDTH OF A CIRCULAR
KNIT FABRIC. It twice the
perpendicular distance
between the enclosed edges
of a flattened tube of fabric
that is under zero tension and
270
Word Category Short description Description
free of folds or wrinkles.
3. WIDTH OF A FLAT KNIT
FABRIC. It is the
perpendicular distance
between the selvedges when
the fabric is under zero
tension and free of folds or
wrinkles.
5. WIDTH OF A RAISED-
SURFACE FABRIC. It is the
dimension included within the
outer limits of the nap or pile,
but excluding the selvedges,
or as otherwise agreed upon
by the purchaser and seller
FABROGRAPHY processes,
operations
The science and art
of creating and
printing designs on
textiles
The science and art of
creating and printing designs
on textiles by use of screens
or stencils. The process may
be manual or mechanical.
FACE fabrics That side of a fabric,
which is intended to
be shown by reason
of weave or finish,
presents a better
appearance.
That side of a fabric, which is
intended to be shown by
reason of weave or finish,
presents a better appearance.
In many fabrics, especially
industrial ones there are no
distinction between face and
back.
FACE FABRIC fabrics See under Back-grey See under Back-grey
FACE FINISH processes,
operations
A finish, which
obscures weave and
yarns by fulling and
napping
A finish, which obscures
weave and yarns by fulling
and napping
FACE LOOP fabrics See under Knitted
loop.
See under Knitted loop.
FACE PLATE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In sewing machine,
the cover on the
sewing-head end of
the machine arm.
In sewing machine, the cover
on the sewing-head end of the
machine arm.
FACE SIDE fabrics Also called Right
side.
Also called Right side. The
side of the textile material that
is outward in the completed
object; i.e. the side of the
fabric intended to be shown
whilst in wear.
FACED CLOTH fabrics Clothes, which have
a different weave
Clothes, which have a
different weave (pile) or finish
271
Word Category Short description Description
(pile) or finish (nap)
on the face side as
opposed to the
reverse and are cut
one-way.
(nap) on the face side as
opposed to the reverse and
are cut one-way. Smooth,
plain weave fabric that is
luxurious looking with a nap
on one side. Best quality face-
cloth is wool but others may
be acrylic or viscose. The
fabrics are made in various
weights. Used mainly for
coats and jackets, but
inexpensive fabrics may be
used for robes and dressing
gowns.
FACING garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The additional piece
of fabric attached to
the upper surface of
a garment.
The additional piece of fabric
attached to the upper surface
of a garment. Usually used in
knitted garments at the front
joining edges of cardigans
and jackets, but also used to
describe the button-stands of
neck openings of shirt style
garments.
FACING RIBBON accessories See Faille ribbon. See Faille ribbon.
FACING SILK fabrics A fine lustrous fabric
of silk
A fine lustrous fabric of silk
(usually of cord, satin, twill
weave, or barathea) used for
facing, e.g. lapels in mens
evening wear.
FAONN fabrics French for fancy
weave, but has
come to describe the
plain colour fabrics of
soft floppy crpe with
satin or taffeta effect
patterns.
French for fancy weave, but
has come to describe the
plain colour fabrics of soft
floppy crpe with satin or
taffeta effect patterns.
Designs are always small,
often shiny on dull
background. Popular in the
thirties when it was made of
silk or Artificial silk, it returned
to popularity in the late
seventies, made from viscose,
acetate, polyester or mixtures.
Used for blouses, soft
dresses, evening wear
FAONN VELVET fabrics Patterned velvet
fabric of various
fibres
Patterned velvet fabric of
various fibres, with the pattern
produced by the burnt-out
method of design. See Burnt
272
Word Category Short description Description
out fabric
FADE-O-METER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A standard
laboratory device for
evaluating a fabrics
fastness of colour to
sunlight.
A standard laboratory device
for evaluating a fabrics
fastness of colour to sunlight.
Test specimens are revolved
around a radiation source of
light (Carbon arc) simulating
suns rays, at 45 north
latitude on a J uly day between
the hours of 9.00 and 3.00.
Fabrics tested are subjected
to appropriate periods of
exposure, depending on end-
use, and are rated for
resistance to exposure to
sunlight. Ratings indicate the
degree of fading or change of
colour. The xenon arc
approximates the spectral
distribution of sunlight better
than any other lamp. .
FADING fabrics 1. In fastness testing,
any change in the
colour of a textile
caused by light or
contaminants in the
atmosphere, e.g.
burnt-gas fumes. 2.
Colloquially, a
reduction in depth or
brightness of colour
of a textile,
irrespective of cause.
1. In fastness testing, any
change in the colour of a
textile caused by light or
contaminants in the
atmosphere, e.g. burnt-gas
fumes. 2. Colloquially, a
reduction in depth or
brightness of colour of a
textile, irrespective of cause.
FAG defects Fabric defect Fabric defect. A coarse or
rough spot in woven fabric.
FAGOT STITCH seams,
stitches
A form of lockstitch,
using a modified
zigzag machine,
used principally in
the corsetry industry,
for joining material,
allowing a narrow
gap between the two
edges.
A form of lockstitch, using a
modified zigzag machine,
used principally in the corsetry
industry, for joining material,
allowing a narrow gap
between the two edges. The
machine performs a cycle of
three stitches, the first through
one piece of material, the
second in the aperture, and
the third through the other
piece of material.
FAILLE fabrics Plain weave fabric Plain weave fabric with
273
Word Category Short description Description
with pronounced ribs
across it
pronounced ribs across it. The
rib effect is produced by
setting the warp yarns very
closely together and the weft
having yarns a little thicker
than the warp and more
openly spaced (see Poplin).
The ribs are coarser than
those of poplin and are slightly
flattened in finishing.
Originally faille was a silk
fabric but it is now made from
man-made filament yarns,
such as acetate, viscose or
polyester and is used for
dresses, light coats, wedding-
gowns linings and facings.
It creases easily. The softer
fabrics drape well, but faille is
essentially for formal clothes
that are not subjected to hard
wear.
FAILLE CRPE fabrics Smooth, rich fabric
resembling Crpe de
Chine, but heavier.
Smooth, rich fabric resembling
Crpe de Chine, but heavier.
The fibre may be silk, but is
more usually synthetic.
FAILLE RIBBON accessories Also called Facing
ribbon.
Also called Facing ribbon. A
double shot or ribbed plain-
woven ribbon commonly used
to reinforce the button line of
cardigans.
FAILLE TAFFETA fabrics Taffeta weave fabric
made from silk or
synthetic fibres
Taffeta weave fabric made
from silk or synthetic fibres but
with a pronounced crosswise
rib effect that resembles faille.
See also Taffeta
FAILURE general,
defects
An arbitrary point
beyond which a
material ceases to
be functionally
capable of its
intended use.
1. An arbitrary point beyond
which a material ceases to be
functionally capable of its
intended use.
2. Sewing defect in sewn
fabric seams. Fabric or
sewing thread rupture or
seam (yarn) slippage
FAIR ISLE KNIT fabrics Knitted fabric with
coloured patterns
resembling Fair Isle.
Knitted fabric with coloured
patterns resembling Fair Isle.
The fibre is usually acrylic and
the fabric has a great deal of
274
Word Category Short description Description
elasticity. It may be inclined to
seat or lose its shape under
strain, so garments are
usually made in loose styles.
FAKE FUR fabrics See Fur fabric. See Fur fabric.
FAKE FURS fabrics Pile fabrics made of
cotton, man-made
fibres, and blends
Pile fabrics made of cotton,
man-made fibres, and blends
used in woven or knitted
constructions to simulate
animal fur.
FALL garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The section of the
collar between the
crease and the leaf
edge.
The section of the collar
between the crease and the
leaf edge.
FALL PLATE
FABRIC
fabrics A patterned fabric
made on a raschel
warp-knitting
machine
A patterned fabric made on a
raschel warp-knitting machine
using one needle bar,
involving the use of a solid
metal plate (fall plate or
chopper bar) to push the
newly formed laps of the
pattern bars down below the
spoons of the open latches, to
be cast off with the ground
loops of the previous course
FALL-ON EFFECT processes,
operations
In printing, two
colours of
overlapping pattern
In printing, two colours of
overlapping pattern, which
results in a third colour. It is
thus possible to achieve a
three-colour print pattern with
two print rollers.
FALLEN WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Dead wool. See Dead wool.
FALLS garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The flap covering the
abdomen on certain
types of breeches
and trousers, now
uncommon
The flap covering the
abdomen on certain types of
breeches and trousers, now
uncommon. Whole or full falls
have vents on either side.
Split falls, as on riding
breeches, button halfway
FALSE REED apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A reed, used in
addition to an
ordinary reed, to
keep the threads of a
fibrous or high-sett
warp separated.
A reed, used in addition to an
ordinary reed, to keep the
threads of a fibrous or high-
sett warp separated.
275
Word Category Short description Description
FALSE TWIST
DIRECTION
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The direction, S or Z,
of twist generated by
a false-twisting
device upstream of
itself.
The direction, S or Z, of twist
generated by a false-twisting
device upstream of itself.
FALSE TWISTING processes,
operations
A twisting operation
applied at an
intermediate position
on a yarn
A twisting operation applied at
an intermediate position on a
yarn or other similar
continuous assembly of fibres,
so that no net twist can be
inserted, as distinct from
twisting at the end of a yarn
where real twist is inserted.
FALSE-TWIST
TEXTURING
processes,
operations
See under Texturing See under Texturing
FANCY ATLAS
FABRIC
fabrics A warp-knitted fabric
similar in
construction to a
single or two bar
atlas fabric
A warp-knitted fabric similar in
construction to a single or two
bar atlas fabric but, in which
the direction of traverse may
change more than once within
the repeat and the movement
of the threads is not restricted
to one wale per course
FANCY BACK fabrics A fabric made with a
pattern on the back,
which differs from
the face, often the
back is of another
colour, a plaid, etc
A fabric made with a pattern
on the back, which differs
from the face, often the back
is of another colour, a plaid,
etc
FANCY PURL fabrics Also known as Links-
links
Also known as Links-links. A
general term used to describe
patterned purl structures in
which a design is formed from
back and face loops.
FANCY RIB WEAVE fabrics A rib weave in which
the float length is
varied to change the
width of the ribs to
give a patterned ef-
fect.
A rib weave in which the float
length is varied to change the
width of the ribs to give a
patterned ef-fect.
FANCY WEAVE fabrics Any weave, which is
not one of the three
basic weaves, plain,
twill or satin, but a
combination or
extension of these
weaves.
Any weave, which is not one
of the three basic weaves,
plain, twill or satin, but a
combination or extension of
these weaves.
276
Word Category Short description Description
FANCY YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn which differs
from the normal
construction due to
irregularities
produced in it
A yarn which differs from the
normal construction due to
irregularities produced in it,
i.e. a yarn that differs
significantly from the normal
appearance/construction of a
single or plied yarn due to the
presence of irregularities
deliberately produced during
its formation.
FASCIATED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Staple fibre yarn,
that by virtue of its
manufacturing
technique consists of
a core of essentially
parallel fibres bound
together by wrapper
fibres.
Staple fibre yarn, that by
virtue of its manufacturing
technique consists of a core of
essentially parallel fibres
bound together by wrapper
fibres. The current technique
of manufacture is often
referred to as Air-jet spinning.
FASHION general The prevailing style
or mode in dress
The prevailing style or mode
in dress; also in fabrics (colour
and texture).
FASHIONED garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A description of a
knitted garment in
which shaping by
narrowing or
widening has been
achieved on the
knitting machine.
A description of a knitted
garment in which shaping by
narrowing or widening has
been achieved on the knitting
machine.
FASHIONING
ANGLE
fabrics The angle formed at
the edge of a piece
of fashioned fabric
The angle formed at the edge
of a piece of fashioned fabric,
measured between course
alignment and the line of the
fashioned selvage.
FASHIONING
FREQUENCY
fabrics The number of
courses between two
succeeding
fashionings within a
series.
The number of courses
between two succeeding
fashionings within a series.
FAST COLOUR chemicals,
textile
auxiliaries
A colour that will
resist colour-
destroying agents
such as sunlight,
washing, dry-
cleaning and
rubbing.
A colour that will resist colour-
destroying agents such as
sunlight, washing, dry-
cleaning and rubbing.
FAST DYE chemicals,
textile
A dye that does not
change shade
A dye that does not change
shade appreciably during the
277
Word Category Short description Description
auxiliaries appreciably during
the life of the
material on which it
is used.
life of the material on which it
is used. Term should be
qualified, i.e. fast to washing,
sunlight, or other specific
colour destroying agent.
FAST REED apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A reed rigidly
mounted in the loom
sley
A reed rigidly mounted in the
loom sley
FASTENERS accessories Fasteners are used
as garment closures.
Fasteners are used as
garment closures. The
fastener types mainly used
are Snap fasteners, Hook-
and-eye fasteners and Self-
fastening tape fasteners
FASTNESS See Colour fastness. See Colour fastness.
FATIGUE FACTOR fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The weakening of a
stretch yarn so that it
loses some of its
ability to recover
after having been
stretched.
The weakening of a stretch
yarn so that it loses some of
its ability to recover after
having been stretched. When
stretch yarn is twisted at
speeds too high for the length
of the heater box (where is
twist is set), stretch yarn
fatigue can result.
FBA See Fluorescent
brightening agent
See Fluorescent brightening
agent
FDY fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Fully drawn yarn See Fully drawn yarn
FEARNOUGHT fabrics A stout, thick,
woollen fabric with a
heavy appearance
A stout, thick, woollen fabric
with a heavy appearance,
used chiefly as a covering for
portholes and the doors of
powder magazines and also
for scarves and coats.
FEATHER CLOTH fabrics A novelty fabric A novelty fabric made by
mixing fine, soft feathers into
wool yarns during
manufacture.
FEATHER FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Detached barbs of
feathers
Detached barbs of feathers,
which are not joined or
attached to each other.
FEATHER PROTEIN
FIBRES
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under
Regenerated protein
fibres
See under Regenerated
protein fibres
FEATHER STITCH seams,
stitches
A decorative stitch,
principally used in
A decorative stitch, principally
used in corsetry. A similar
278
Word Category Short description Description
corsetry machine cycle is employed as
for the fagot stitch but the
joining of two edges is not
involved.
A decorative stitch arranged
to produce a branching zigzag
line. Often used to sew on
blanket bind-ings.
FEATHERS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The outgrowth
forming the contour
and external
covering of fowl.
The outgrowth forming the
contour and external covering
of fowl.
FEATHUR
STUFFINGS
accessories The plumage of
chickens, turkeys,
ducks and geese,
used for filling
pillows.
The plumage of chickens,
turkeys, ducks and geese,
used for filling pillows. Fine
fluff found under the outer
plumage of ducks and geese
is called down. Feathers and
down can be mixed or
blended. The predominant
material is listed first on the
label
FEED apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In sewing machine, a
mechanism for
repeatedly moving
material being
stitched from one
stitch position to the
next.
In sewing machine, a
mechanism for repeatedly
moving material being stitched
from one stitch position to the
next.
FEED-DOGS apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In sewing machine,
toothed metal
devices positioned
under or over the
work that advance
the fabric
components during
stitching.
In sewing machine, toothed
metal devices positioned
under or over the work that
advance the fabric
components during stitching.
Under work they form an oval
movement, at the top of which
they protrude through the
throat plate and move
forward, advancing the fabric
one stitch; then they sink
below the throat plate and
return to their original location
FEED-OFF-ARM
BED
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In sewing machine, a
horizontal U-shaped
bed
In sewing machine, a
horizontal U-shaped bed with
the end of one arm
underneath the sewing head
and the other attached to the
upright part of the machine
279
Word Category Short description Description
arm.
FEEDER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The collective
mechanisms on a
knitting machine that
produce a course of
loops
The collective mechanisms on
a knitting machine that
produce a course of loops.
Confusingly the term is also
used to describe the metal
plate with a hole or holes that,
guide the yarn into the hooks
of latch needles during loop
formation. Both terms are
commonly used in relation to
circular machines, which are
classified according to the
number of feeders they
possess. This defines the
maximum number of courses
they can knit in one revolution
of the machine
FEEDER
VARIATION
defects See Machine barr. See Machine barr.
FEEDING FOOT apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In sewing machine, a
presser foot
In sewing machine, a presser
foot which alternately engages
and disengages with the
upper surface of the material
and which is driven so that it
feeds the material.
FEEL fabrics See under Finish. See under Finish.
FELL fabrics The edge of the cloth
in the loom
The edge of the cloth in the
loom, marked by the last weft
thread that is nearest to the
reed whilst the fabric is being
woven. The line where the
warp shed and the newly
woven fabric meet; the weft is
beaten into the fell.
FELLING processes,
operations
The operation of
over-sewing a piece
of material by its
edge (raw or turned
in) upon the body
material.
The operation of over-sewing
a piece of material by its edge
(raw or turned in) upon the
body material. Blind-stitch
machines are used for many
felling operations
FELLING MARK fabrics indicate the length of
the piece in which
the fabric is sold
A length of fabric from the
loom contains woven marks
(felling marks) at intervals,
which indicate the length of
the piece in which the fabric is
sold
280
Word Category Short description Description
FELLING SIMILI fabrics See Simili binding
under Binding.
See Simili binding under
Binding.
FELT fabrics A type of textile
fabric characterised
by the densely
matted condition of
most of or all of the
fibres of which it is
composed.
A type of textile fabric
characterised by the densely
matted condition of most of or
all of the fibres of which it is
composed. Wool, and some
other animal fibres possess a
natural tendency to felt or mat
together under the influence
of heat, moisture and
mechanical pressure. Wool
fibres in wet and soapy
conditions are milled until they
are interlocked and matted
and then pressure applied. In
this way, webs of wool fibres
can be consolidated into a
fabric.
The fabric is entirely without
grain because the flat webs of
fibres are non-directional, i.e.
the fibres point in all
directions. Felt can be cut in
any direction without fraying
or unravelling, because of the
compact fibre arrangement.
Fabric uses are restricted due
to many reasons. Being a rigid
fabric it does not drape. Does
not wear well, and loses
shape as it has no elasticity.
Stability and durability
properties are poor. The main
apparel use of felt is in the
manufacture of hats where its
capacity to be shaped by heat
and moisture can be
exploited. Its lack of grain
makes it suitable for
handicraft and appliqu work
where cutting in intricate
shapes is possible. Certain
types of soft bulky felts are
used as padding in garment
interlinings.
FELT FABRIC fabrics This is an ordinary
woven fabric, usually
cotton or wool,
This is an ordinary woven
fabric, usually cotton or wool,
but may be other fibres, that
281
Word Category Short description Description
have been milled on the
surface to produce a felt-like
ap-pearance, which disguises
the weave beneath. The fabric
may be of any weight, and the
process is sometimes applied
to cheap base fabric to give it
more warmth and interest. It
will be liable to shrink if it is of
wool or unshrunk cotton. See
also Felt.
FELTABILITY fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The degree to which
a sample of fibres
will consolidate in a
specified time by
interlocking under
prescribed
combinations of
mechanical action,
chemical action,
moisture, and heat.
The degree to which a sample
of fibres will consolidate in a
specified time by interlocking
under prescribed
combinations of mechanical
action, chemical action,
moisture, and heat.
FELTED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A wool-rich yarn
produced from sliver,
slubbings, rovings,
yarn, or by felting.
See also Continuous
yarn felting
A wool-rich yarn produced
from sliver, slubbings, rovings,
yarn, or by felting. See also
Continuous yarn felting
FELTER defects Also called Fray Also called Fray. A faulty area
in a fabric caused by local
interference with the shed
during weaving, that results in
a concentration of stitches or
floats, and is sometimes
accompanied by bro-ken
ends.
FELTING processes,
operations
The matting together
of fibres during
processing, wear or
washing.
The matting together of fibres
during processing, wear or
washing. See also Milling.
FELTING
DIMENSIONAL
CHANGE
fabrics The irreversible
dimensional change
that occurs in a
consolidated wool
fabric
The irreversible dimensional
change that occurs in a
consolidated wool fabric when
it is subjected to agitation in
laundering
FELTING NEEDLE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Needlefelt
needle.
See Needlefelt needle.
282
Word Category Short description Description
FENTS fabrics Also called Bribe.
Short lengths of
fabric cut from an
end, piece, or lump
of fabric.
Also called Bribe. Short
lengths of fabric cut from an
end, piece, or lump of fabric.
They may or may not be of
imperfect material. See also
Remnants
FEP FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fluorinated ethylene-
propylene copolymer
fibres
Fluorinated ethylene-
propylene copolymer fibres,
spun from fluorinated
ethylene-propylene copolymer
FIBER fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Same as Fibre. Same as Fibre.
FIBRAMINE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A viscose rayon into
which, casein has
been incorporated.
A viscose rayon into which,
casein has been incorporated.
FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A unit of matter,
which possesses the
properties of
fineness, flexibility
and a high ratio of
length to thickness.
The basic complete,
or smallest unit used
in a textile structure.
Also called Fibre. A unit of
matter, which possesses the
properties of fineness,
flexibility and a high ratio of
length to thickness. The basic
complete, or smallest unit
used in a textile structure. A
thin and flexible element,
which may be combined with
others to make yarn or fabric.
A generic term for any one of
the various types of matter
that form the basic elements
of a textile and that is
characterised by having a
high ratio of length to
thickness. Chemical fibre: A
literal translation of various
non-English terms having the
same meaning as man-made
fibre. Man-made fibre: A
manufactured fibre as distinct
from a fibre that occurs
naturally. Natural fibre: A fibre
occurring in nature, which is
animal, vegetable or mineral
in origin. Regenerated fibre: A
fibre formed from a solution of
a natural polymer or of a
chemical derivative of a
natural polymer and having
the same chemical
283
Word Category Short description Description
constitution as the natural
polymer from which the
solution or derivative was
made. Synthetic fibre: A
manufactured fibre produced
from a polymer built up from
chemical elements or
compounds, in contrast to
fibres made from naturally
occurring fibre-forming
polymers.
FIBRE
BIREFRINGENCE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See also
Birefringence
The algebraic difference of the
index of refraction of the fibre
for plane polarised light
vibrating parallel to the
longitudinal axis of the fibre
and the index of refraction for
light vibrating perpendicular to
the long axis. See also
Birefringence
FIBRE COHESION general Also called Cling and
Drag
Also called Cling and Drag.
The resistance to separation
of fibres in contact with one
another.
FIBRE CONTENT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The type and amount
of fibre(s) used in
making a textile
product.
The type and amount of
fibre(s) used in making a
textile product.
FIBRE CRIMP fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The waviness of a
fibre expressed as
waves or crimps per
unit length
1. The waviness of a fibre
expressed as waves or crimps
per unit length.
2. The difference in distance
between two points on the
fibre as it lies in an
unstretched condition and the
same two points when the
fibre is straightened under
specific tension, expressed as
a per-centage of the
unstretched length.
FIBRE CROSS-
SECTION
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibres are made in a
variety of cross-
sectional shapes,
and this has very
important effect on
fibre properties.
Fibres are made in a variety of
cross-sectional shapes, and
this has very important effect
on fibre properties. The
bending stiffness of a
flattened cross-section is less
than that of a round cross
sectional area. The high
284
Word Category Short description Description
bending stiffness of the round
or bean-shaped cross-section
is particularly advantageous in
carpet fibres, contributing to
resilience or spring-back. A
flattened or dog-bone cross-
section, on the other hand, is
conducive to a softness of
touch in fabrics made from
this type of fibre. The dog-
bone type also has a
distinctive effect on the
reflection of light, and thus is
often noticeable as a sheen or
lustre in certain fabric
constructions.
FIBRE DENSITY fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Mass per unit
volume of the solid
matter, which a fibre
is composed of,
measured under
specified conditions.
Mass per unit volume of the
solid matter, which a fibre is
composed of, measured
under specified conditions.
FIBRE DIAGRAM fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Fibre
length.
See under Fibre length.
FIBRE EXTENT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Fibre
length.
See under Fibre length.
FIBRE FINENESS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The fineness of
cotton, silk and man-
made fibres is
usually expressed in
terms of average
linear density.
The fineness of cotton, silk
and man-made fibres is
usually expressed in terms of
average linear density. The
fineness of animal fibres is
usually expressed as the
mean fibre diameter.
FIBRE FINISH processes,
operations
Process of
application of a
coating of chemical
compound(s) on a
fibre to improve
lubrication and
prevent
electrification.
Process of application of a
coating of chemical
compound(s) on a fibre to
improve lubrication and
prevent electrification.
FIBRE GENERIC
NAME
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A name used to
distinguish a class of
textile fibre from
others
A name used to distinguish a
class of textile fibre from
others. For natural fibres, the
distinguishing attribute is the
fibre source; for man-made
285
Word Category Short description Description
fibres, the chemical
difference, which often results
in distinctive property
differences, is the main basis
for classification; other
attributes are included where
necessary.
FIBRE LENGTH fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The distance
between the ends of
a fibre when
measured under
specified conditions.
The distance between the
ends of a fibre when
measured under specified
conditions. In commercial
practice the following terms
apply:
Barbe: The mean length of the
fibres of a sliver or of a roving
calculated from the
proportions by mass of the
fibres in the sliver or roving.
This term is used for long
staple fibres, particularly wool.
Crimped length: The distance
between the ends of a fibre
when substantially freed from
external re-straint, measured
with respect to its general axis
of orientation.
Dispersion: A measure of
length variation in cotton
fibres. Statistically it is the
inter quartile range of the
fibres greater than half the
maximum length when
determined using a comb
sorter.
Effective length: A measure of
the characteristic length of a
sample of cotton fibres.
Statistically it is the inter
quartile length of fibres longer
than half the maximum length
when determined using a
comb sorter.
Fibre diagram: A graphical
representation of the length
characteristics of a sample of
staple fibres. It is a graph of
length against cumulative
frequency.
Fibre extent: The distance
286
Word Category Short description Description
between two planes which just
enclose a fibre without
intercepting it, each plane
being perpendicular to the
general direction of the yarn
or other assembly of which
the fibre forms a part.
Fibrogram: A graph showing
the length distribution of a
sample of cotton fibres as
determined by using the
Fibrograph instrument.
Statistically it is the curve
representing the second
cumulation (in-tegral) of the
frequency distribution.
Floating fibre index: The
percentage of fibres not
gripped by either the front or
back rollers of a drafting
system. It is determined by
the Fibrograph instrument,
which is used to test samples
of cot-ton fibre.
Hauteur: The mean length of
the fibres of a sliver or roving,
calculated from the
proportions by titre of the
fibres in the sliver or the
roving. This term is used for
long staple fibres, particularly
wool. See Barbe above.
Span length: The fibre extent
exceeded by a stated
percentage of cotton fibres by
number deter-mined by using
the Fibrograph instrument,
e.g. 2.5 % span length is the
extent exceeded by only 2.5
% of the fibres.
Staple length: The
characteristic fibre length of a
sample of staple fibres
(usually estimated by sub-
jective visual assessment for
natural fibres). The staple
length of wool is usually taken
as the length of the longer
fibres in a hand-prepared tuft
287
Word Category Short description Description
or staple in its naturally
crimped and wavy condition
(see Crimp). The staple length
of cotton corresponds very
closely to the modal or most
frequent length of the fibres
when measured in a
straightened condition.
Uniformity index: A measure
of length variation in cotton
fibres determined using the
Fibrograph instrument. It is
the ratio of the mean length to
the upper half mean length
expressed as a percent-age.
Uniformity ratio: A measure of
length variation in cotton
fibres determined by using the
Fibrograph instrument. It is
the ratio between two span
lengths (50 % and 2.5 %)
expressed as a percentage of
the longer span length.
Upper half mean length: The
mean length by number of the
longer one half of the fibres by
weight as determined by using
the Fibrograph instrument for
cotton.
FIBRE LENGTH
ARRAY
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A series of individual
fibres that are
arranged in order
based on fibre length
A series of individual fibres
that are arranged in order
based on fibre length or a
series of groups of fibres that
represent essentially uniform
lengths within a group and
which are arranged in order
based on group length.
FIBRE MIGRATION fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The change in the
distance of a fibre or
filament from the
axis of a yarn during
production.
The change in the distance of
a fibre or filament from the
axis of a yarn during
production.
FIBRE
MORPHOLOGY
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The form and
structure of a fibre,
including its
biological structure,
shape, cross-section,
and microscopic
The form and structure of a
fibre, including its biological
structure, shape, cross-
section, and microscopic
appearance
288
Word Category Short description Description
appearance
FIBRE NUMBER fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The linear density of
a fibre expressed in
units such as tex or
denier.
The linear density of a fibre
expressed in units such as tex
or denier.
FIBRE OPTICS processes,
operations
Application to image
transmission of the
ability of transparent
dielectric fibres of
glass or plastics to
conduct light
internally along their
length in a flexible
path
Application to image
transmission of the ability of
transparent dielectric fibres of
glass or plastics to conduct
light internally along their
length in a flexible path
FIBRE PORES fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Orifices in the fibre Orifices in the fibre, i.e.
interstices or small openings
existing between the
molecules of the fibre.
FIBRE PROPERTIES fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The performance of
fabrics are relative to
the properties of
fibres used in it.
The performance of fabrics
are relative to the properties
of fibres used in it. Salient
properties of fibre involved in
the performance of fabrics
are; Appearance: This
includes colour, lustre,
abrasion resistance, pilling
property, resiliency, dye
affinity, and finish affinity.
Comfort: This includes
density, elongation, elastic
recovery, moisture regain,
absorbency, static charge,
flexibility or pliability, and
resiliency. Maintenance: This
includes strength or tenacity -
wet and dry, resiliency,
moisture absorbency,
abrasion resistance, and
chemical resistance.
Durability: This includes
tenacity, flexibility or pliability,
cohesiveness, moisture
regain, absorbency, elastic
recovery, elongation, thermal
reactions, chemical; reactions,
and biological reactions.
FIBRE QUALITY
INDEX
fibers,
filaments,
A numerical value
indicating the
A numerical value indicating
the processability of cotton
289
Word Category Short description Description
yarns processability of
cotton
calculated from its fineness.
FIBRE ROPE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A compact but
flexible torsionally
balanced, continuous
structure of natural
or man-made fibres
A compact but flexible
torsionally balanced,
continuous structure of natural
or man-made fibres produced
from strands which are
twisted, plaited, or braided
together, generally greater
than 5-mm (3/16 in.) diameter
and which serves primarily to
transmit a force from the point
of origin to the point of
application.
FIBRE ULTIMATE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
That unit cell beyond
which subdivision is
not possible without
loss of a fibres
identity.
That unit cell beyond which
subdivision is not possible
without loss of a fibres
identity.
FIBREFILL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Virgin man-made
fibres especially
engineered
Virgin man-made fibres
especially engineered as to
linear density, cut length, and
crimp for use as a textile filling
material.
FIBRID fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A netted filamentary
or fibrillar structure,
substantially longer
in one dimension
than in the other two
A netted filamentary or fibrillar
structure, substantially longer
in one dimension than in the
other two, that exhibits a
capacity for mechanical
entanglement with other
structures and much higher
water-holding capacity than
fibres produced by
conventional spinning means.
Fibrids are used as binding
elements in the production of
wet-laid synthetic papers.
FIBRIL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A small fibre;
bundles of fibre cells.
A small fibre; bundles of fibre
cells.
FIBRILLAE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See also Lousiness. Whitish specks often visible
on the surface of dyed silk
yarns. See also Lousiness.
FIBRILLATED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn produced by
the process of
fibrillation.
A yarn produced by the
process of fibrillation.
FIBRILLATED-FILM fibers, Staple fibre Staple fibre produced by
290
Word Category Short description Description
FIBRE filaments,
yarns
produced by cutting,
chopping or stretch-
breaking fibrillated
yarn or fibrillated-film
tow.
cutting, chopping or stretch-
breaking fibrillated yarn or
fibrillated-film tow.
FIBRILLATED-FILM
TOW
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
An assembly of
fibrillated textile films
An assembly of fibrillated
textile films
FIBRILLATED-FILM
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Yarn produced from
fibrillating film
Yarn produced from fibrillating
film that has been converted
into a longitudinally fibrillated
struc-ture.
FIBRILLATING FILM fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A polymer film in
which molecular
orientation has been
induced by stretching
A polymer film in which
molecular orientation has
been induced by stretching to
such a degree that it is
capable of being converted
into yarn or twine by
manipulation, e.g. by twisting
under tension, which results in
the formation of a
longitudinally split structure
(Split fibre).
FIBRILLATION defects The process of
splitting a
longitudinally
oriented fibre, textile
film or tape into a
network of
interconnected
fibres.
The process of splitting a
longitudinally oriented fibre,
textile film or tape into a
network of interconnected
fibres. Fibrillation can also
refer to a fibrillar failure or film
structure. Processes for
producing fibrillation may be
divided into two groups; (a)
those producing random
splitting to give a relatively
coarse network, e.g. twisting,
and (b) those producing
controlled splitting to give a
relatively fine network, e.g. by
rapidly rotating pinned rollers.
FIBRING OFF processes,
operations
The involuntary
removal of fibre or
lint from yarns during
processing.
The involuntary removal of
fibre or lint from yarns during
processing.
FIBRO

FIBRO
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Trade name for a
viscose staple fibre
Trade name for a viscose
staple fibre
FIBROGRAM fibers, See under Fibre See under Fibre length.
291
Word Category Short description Description
filaments,
yarns
length.
FIBROGRAPH apparatus,
equipage,
tools
An instrument
containing a
photoelectric eye
An instrument containing a
photoelectric eye that scans a
sample of raw stock fibres
quickly and indicates the
percentage of fibre lengths.
FIBROIN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The chief ingredient
of silk
The chief ingredient of silk
after the gum has been
discharged; it is a protein
containing carbon, hydrogen,
oxygen and nitrogen.
FIBRONAIRE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
An instrument which,
determines the
micronaire reading of
raw cotton fibres
An instrument which,
determines the micronaire
reading of raw cotton fibres
using the porous plug air flow
technique
FIBROUS general Containing,
consisting of, or like,
fibres.
Containing, consisting of, or
like, fibres.
FIDDLE STRING defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. A particular
form of tight end or tight pick
that becomes evident only
after wet processing
FIGURED FABRIC fabrics A fabric, in which
patterns or motifs are
produced by a
combination of
distinct weaves
usually requiring a
dobby or jacquard
mechanism.
A fabric, in which patterns or
motifs are produced by a
combination of distinct
weaves usually requiring a
dobby or jacquard
mechanism.
FIGURING processes,
operations
The application of
fancy effects to
woven cloth.
The application of fancy
effects to woven cloth.
FIJ I SILK fabrics Crisp silk, heavier
than J ap, and
therefore much more
expensive.
Crisp silk, heavier than J ap,
and therefore much more
expensive. Usually found in
natural colours and cream.
Used for blouses, dresses.
FILAMEL fabrics See under Antistatic
tricot.
See under Antistatic tricot.
FILAMENT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Continuous fibre of
indefinite length.
Continuous fibre of indefinite
length. It is long enough to be
used in a fabric without
increasing its length by adding
other fibres on to it. An
292
Word Category Short description Description
example of a natural filament
is silk; the cocoon of a
silkworm can contain about
3000 m of continuous twin
filaments. Man-made
filaments produced by
spinning machines can be
many kilometres long.
FILAMENT BLEND
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Entirely new type of
yarn may be
produced by
mingling together
filaments of different
fibres. A filament
blend yarn can be
produced by twisting
together rayon
filaments and nylon
filaments.
Entirely new type of yarn may
be produced by mingling
together filaments of different
fibres. A filament blend yarn
can be produced by twisting
together rayon filaments and
nylon filaments. A new range
of lightweight fabrics can be
produced from this yarn, and
they combine the aesthetic
appeal of rayon with the
strength of nylon. The range
of fabrics that can be
produced from this yarn
includes crpe, georgettes,
fine twills and jerseys. The
woven fabrics have a rustle
and scroop not unlike that of
silk. They are easy-care
fabrics and will not require a
lot of attention after washing.
They may be ironed if
necessary, but on the whole
have a good resistance to
creasing.
Filament blend yarns are also
produced from acetate and
nylon. Before the
development of these yarns it
had only been possible to
blend the staple fibres, but
this process represents a
major break-through, since
blended yarns can now be
produced in continuous
filament form.
FILAMENT COUNT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The number of
filaments that make
up a yarn.
The number of filaments that
make up a yarn.
FILAMENT FIBRES fibers, Long, continuous Long, continuous fibres that
293
Word Category Short description Description
filaments,
yarns
fibres that can be
measured in metres
or yards or, in case
of man-made fibres,
in kilometres or
miles.
can be measured in metres or
yards or, in case of man-made
fibres, in kilometres or miles.
FILAMENT YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn composed of
one or more
(continuous)
filaments
A yarn composed of one or
more (continuous) filaments,
assembled with or without
twist.
FILAMENTATION defects A fibrous or hairy
appearance due to
broken filaments on
the surface of a yarn
package or fabric.
A fibrous or hairy appearance
due to broken filaments on the
surface of a yarn package or
fabric.
FILATURE general Factory for reeling
raw silk in to skeins
from the cocoons.
Factory for reeling raw silk in
to skeins from the cocoons.
FILATURE SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A raw silk, which is
reeled by machinery,
as distinct from silk
prepared by hand in
cottage industry.
A raw silk, which is reeled by
machinery, as distinct from
silk prepared by hand in
cottage industry.
FILET LACE fabrics Mesh fabric of
square design
Mesh fabric of square design
with some squares blocked in
to form a design.
FILET NET fabrics LACE. Furnishing
and Leavers lace.
1. LACE. Furnishing and
Leavers lace. A lace
construction in which a
square-mesh net consists of
parallel warp threads bound
by one or more bobbin
threads, and mesh threads
that alternately pillar and
throw at right angles to the
warp threads. Pattern may be
added by more frequent
throwing of the mesh threads
or by throws of a further set of
patterning threads that pillar
when not patterning.
2. WARP KNITTED. A lace
construction similar to the
above except that a knitted
chain of loops in the warp
thread binds the mesh threads
and patterning threads, if any.
3. WOVEN. A net woven in
294
Word Category Short description Description
such a way that the yarns are
locked at the intersections.
FILL LEAKAGE defects In comforters, either
partial or total
penetration of the
stuffing material
through the outer or
face fabric.
In comforters, either partial or
total penetration of the stuffing
material through the outer or
face fabric.
FILLER chemicals,
textile
auxiliaries
Nonfibrous material,
such as insoluble
clays or gypsum,
together with
starches, gums, etc.,
added to a fabric to
increase its weight
Also called Back-filling, Back-
sizing. Nonfibrous material,
such as insoluble clays or
gypsum, together with
starches, gums, etc., added to
a fabric to increase its weight
or to modify the appearance
or handle of the fabric.
FILLER FABRIC fabrics See under Tyre
textiles..
See under Tyre textiles.
FILLER YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Stuffer yarn. See Stuffer yarn.
FILLING fabrics Another name for
Weft.
1. Another name for Weft.
2. The term is sometimes
used, especially in the U.K., to
mean Filler. See Filler.
FILLING BAND defects Defect in woven
fabrics.
Defect in woven fabrics. A
visual defect across the width
due to a change occurring in
the yarn for a large number of
picks. (Compare Filling bar.)
FILLING BAR defects Defect in woven
fabrics.
Defect in woven fabrics. A
visual defect, across the
width, which contains a limited
number of picks of different
appearance than normal.
(Compare Filling band.)
FILLING
ELONGATION &
TENSION
fabrics Stretch or tension
measured at right
angles to the warp
direction of the
fabric.
Stretch or tension measured
at right angles to the warp
direction of the fabric.
FILLING FACE fabrics That weave in which
the face of the fabric
is formed by the weft
yarns.
That weave in which the face
of the fabric is formed by the
weft yarns. Fabrics so woven
are also called filling flush.
FILLING FACE
TWILL
fabrics A twill fabric in which
the weft yarns float
A twill fabric in which the weft
yarns float on the face of the
295
Word Category Short description Description
on the face of the
fabric more than the
warp yarns.
fabric more than the warp
yarns.
FILLING MATERIAL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The contents of an
industry product
containing feathers
or down
The contents of an industry
product containing feathers or
down of any kind or type, with
or without natural or synthetic
materials.
FILLING RIB WEAVE fabrics A fabric in which the
warp yarns are
grouped together
A fabric in which the warp
yarns are grouped together to
form ribs running in the weft
direction.
FILLING RUN OUT defects See Broken pick. See Broken pick.
FILLING SATEEN fabrics A sateen fabric in
which the weft yarns
float on the face of
the fabric more than
the warp yarns.
A sateen fabric in which the
weft yarns float on the face of
the fabric more than the warp
yarns.
FILLING SATIN fabrics A satin fabric in
which the weft yarns
float on the face of
the fabric more than
the warp yarns.
A satin fabric in which the weft
yarns float on the face of the
fabric more than the warp
yarns.
FILLING SNARL defects See Kink-in. See Kink-in.
FILLING YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Filling. See Filling.
FILLING-TO-FILLING
SEAM
seams,
stitches
A sewn seam A sewn seam in which the
yarns in the weft direction on
both sides of the sewn seam
are per-pendicular to the
seam.
FILTER CLOTH fabrics Fabric used for
filtering purposes
Fabric used for filtering
purposes. Straining different
liquids may require fabrics of
varying density or chemical
type.
FINAL PRESSING
DEFECTS IN
GARMENT
defects See under Garment
defects, classified
See under Garment defects,
classified
FINAL TWIST fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The number of turns
per unit length in a
single yarn
component of a plied
yarn
Also called As-is twist. The
number of turns per unit
length in a single yarn
component of a plied yarn or
the plied yarn component of a
cabled yarn as the component
lies in the more complex
296
Word Category Short description Description
structure.tapes, lining,
pocketing, waistbands, etc.
FINDINGS fabrics Supplementary
fabrics
Supplementary fabrics
employed in making a
garment such as zipper tapes,
lining, pocketing, waistbands,
etc.
FINE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Fine
wool.
Also called Fine wool. Wool,
mostly from merino sheep,
which is used in good quality
clothing and fabrics
FINE DRAWING processes,
operations
The final operation of
repairing faults in
fabrics
The final operation of
repairing faults in fabrics by
sewing or closing up the
places where threads or yarns
are missing, a form of invisible
mending
FINE END defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. A warp yarn
smaller in diameter than
normally used in the fabric.
(Compare Coarse end.)
FINE FILLING defects See Thin filling. See Thin filling.
FINE FILLING BAR defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Also called
Bang off. A weftwise bar
either across the full width of
the cloth or a portion of it,
containing picks of smaller
diameter than normally being
used in the fabric or
containing less than the
normal number of picks.
FINE PICK defects See Thin filling. See Thin filling.
FINE WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Fine See Fine
FINENESS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
In fibres, a relative
measure of size,
diameter, linear
density, or mass per
unit length
expressed in a
variety of units
In fibres, a relative measure of
size, diameter, linear density,
or mass per unit length
expressed in a variety of units
FINGER MARK defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Also called
Pressure mark. An irregular
spot showing variation in picks
per inch for a limited width,
caused usually during
297
Word Category Short description Description
spreading of warp ends while
loom is in motion, pressure
upon cloth between reed and
take-up drum.
FINGER PRESSING processes,
operations
Applying pressure on
damp fabric with
fingers
Applying pressure on damp
fabric with fingers to shape
and mould ruffles, pleats,
neckbands, creases, etc
FINGERING YARNS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A soft yarn of two or
more ply produced
for hand knitting.
A soft yarn of two or more ply
produced for hand knitting.
FINGERTIP TOWEL garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under Towel. See under Towel.
FINISH fabrics Treatment of a fabric
to impart, a desired
surface effect, such
as napping,
calendering,
embossing,
lacquering, or
crinkling.
Treatment of a fabric to
impart, a desired surface
effect, such as napping,
calendering, embossing,
lacquering, or crinkling. Some
finishes add lustre; others give
a muted dull effect. Special
finishes can be applied to
make a fabric water proof or
wrinkle resistant. A finish may
contribute to the feel of the
fabric, as well as to its looks
and usefulness. Basic
finishes: Also called Regular
finishes. All processes
required for converting grey
(or griege) goods into
merchandise saleable to the
consumer or ultimate
processor. Basic finishes are
mechanical and/or chemical.
Finishes that appeal to the
eye include shedding,
singeing, brushing, beetling,
mercerising, stentering,
calendering, moireing,
pressing, embossing,
crimping, glazing, polishing,
inspection and repair.
Finishes that appeal to touch
include napping, weighting,
coating, sizing, or dressing
and starching. Functional
finishes: Also called Special
298
Word Category Short description Description
finishes. Treatments that are
applied to fabrics to make
them better suited for specific
uses. These finishes include
absorbent finish, air
conditioning of fabric, anti-
bacterial finish, crease
resistant, durable crease,
durable press, flame resistant,
metallizing, mildew resistant,
moth repellent, shrinkage
control, wash-and-wear, water
repellent, water proofing, etc.
FINISHED FABRIC
WEIGHT
fabrics Mass per unit area
expressed in grams
per square metre
Mass per unit area expressed
in grams per square metre
(ounces per square yard),
grams per linear metre
(ounces per linear yard), or
inversely as meters per
kilogram (linear yards per
pound), or square meters per
kilogram (square yards per
pound).
FINISHED GOODS fabrics Converted fabrics. Converted fabrics. Cloths that,
after having been passed
through all processes required
for making the goods suitable
for sale to the ultimate
consumer.
FINISHED WIDTH fabrics The width of a fabric
after it has
completed the
finishing operations
and is ready for use.
The width of a fabric after it
has completed the finishing
operations and is ready for
use.
FINISHED YIELD fabrics In knitted fabrics, the
number of finished
square yards per
pound (square
meters per kilogram)
of finished fabric
In knitted fabrics, the number
of finished square yards per
pound (square meters per
kilogram) of finished fabric
FINISHING processes,
operations
See Fabric finishing. See Fabric finishing.
FINISHING BAR defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Uneven
appearance across entire
width of fabric usually caused
by machine stoppage during
processing
299
Word Category Short description Description
FINISHING
PROCESSES
processes,
operations
Conversion of loom
state grey cloth
Conversion of loom state grey
cloth (which is rough, contains
blemishes and impurities
which come from the nature of
the fibres used or were picked
up in the manufacturing
process) into finished cloth
ready for use. There are many
stages and processes
involved in finishing a piece of
fairly inert, limp, and lifeless
grey cloth into the full and
lustrous product known to the
consumer.
FINISHING SPOT defects Also called Blotch
and Stain. Fabric
defect.
Also called Blotch and Stain.
Fabric defect. A discoloured
area on the fabric, caused
probably by foreign material
such as dirt, grease, oil, rust,
water, etc. on the fabric.
FIQUE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A fibre from the leaf
of the plant Furcraea
macrophylla
A fibre from the leaf of the
plant Furcraea macrophylla
FIRE general Uncontrolled
conflagration in
which materials are
destroyed by burning
as evidenced by
flames of varying
size and shape, and
a high intensity heat
source.
Uncontrolled conflagration in
which materials are destroyed
by burning as evidenced by
flames of varying size and
shape, and a high intensity
heat source.
tapes, lining, pocketing,
waistbands, etc.
FIRE PROOF fabrics Uncontrolled
conflagration
Fire proof fabrics will not
support flame.
FIRE RETARDANCE general The resistance to
combustion of a
material
The resistance to combustion
of a material when tested
under specified conditions.
FIRE RETARDANT
TREATMENT
processes,
operations
Any process such as
spraying, padding,
dipping, brushing to
reduce flammability
Any process such as
spraying, padding, dipping,
brushing, or otherwise
applying a material onto the
textile material at any stage of
manufacture, which has as its
primary or secondary purpose
the reduction of its
flammability
FIRMNESS FACTOR fabrics It may be referred to A term derived from cloth-
300
Word Category Short description Description
as a percentage of
the maximum
possible cover factor
for a particular
weave structure
(percentage cover).
setting theories: it takes
account of both the thread-
spacing relative to the yarn
diameter (cover factor) and of
the frequency of the
interlacings. It may be referred
to as a percentage of the
maximum possible cover
factor for a particular weave
structure (percentage cover).
For plain weave, it is identical
with the cover factor; for other
weaves, e.g. for twill weaves,
it is the cover factor multiplied
by a value characteristic of the
weave and indicative of the
frequency of the interlacings.
FIRSTS fabrics An inspection
classification for
fabrics
An inspection classification for
fabrics that meet established
commercial standards for
minimum number of defects
and imperfections.
FISH garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A dart cut at the
waist of a garment to
give a closer fit
A dart cut at the waist of a
garment to give a closer fit
FISH EYE defects See Pinhole. See
also Snag
See Pinhole. See also Snag
FISH EYE CLOTH fabrics Fabric with a woven
diamond-effect
pattern
Fabric with a woven diamond-
effect pattern, constructed in a
similar way to birds eye, but
larger. Is often a woollen
cloth, but may contain other
fibres such as polyester. See
Birds eye weave.
FISHNET fabrics A weft-knitted fabric
resembling a fine-
meshed net
construction
A weft-knitted fabric
resembling a fine-meshed net
construction generally made
by plating a thick and thin
yarn. The thick yarn is floated
across the thin yarn to give
either an all-over or patterned
openwork effect.
FITTED SHEET garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under Sheeting. See under Sheeting.
FIXED RETAINER apparatus,
equipage,
In zippers, a device
permanently
In zippers, a device
permanently attached to the
301
Word Category Short description Description
tools attached to the
retainer pin at the
bottom of one
stringer.
retainer pin at the bottom of
one stringer. The fixed
retainer has an opening
shaped to fit the separable
pin. In order to close, the
separable pin is passed
through the slider body and
then inserted into this
opening. The fixed retainer
holds or retains the two
stringers in alignment for
interlocking
FIXING processes,
operations
1. Setting dye after
dyeing, usually by
steaming or hot
wash. 2. Converting
soluble dye into an
insoluble form.
1. Setting dye after dyeing,
usually by steaming or hot
wash. 2. Converting soluble
dye into an insoluble form.
FIXING AGENT chemicals,
textile
auxiliaries
Chemicals used in
dyeing and printing
to convert a soluble
dye into an insoluble
form in or on the
fibre.
Chemicals used in dyeing and
printing to convert a soluble
dye into an insoluble form in
or on the fibre.
FLAGGING defects Setting dye after
dyeing
Sewn seam defect. A mode of
failure evidenced by slippage
of one or more yarns entirely
out of the original seam.
FLAKE YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A novelty ply yarn in
which flakes or tufts
of roving appear at
intervals.
A novelty ply yarn in which
flakes or tufts of roving appear
at intervals. The tufts are not
part of the single yarns, but
are held in place by the ply
twist
FLAME general A hot, luminous zone
of gas or matter in
gaseous suspension
A hot, luminous zone of gas or
matter in gaseous
suspension, or both, that is
undergoing combustion that is
relatively constant in size and
shape, and that produces a
relatively low heat flux.
FLAME
RESISTANCE
general The property of a
material whereby
flaming combustion
is prevented,
terminated, or
inhibited
The property of a material
whereby flaming combustion
is prevented, terminated, or
inhibited, following application
of a flaming or nonflaming
source of ignition, with or
without subsequent removal
302
Word Category Short description Description
of the ignition source
FLAME SPREAD general In flammability
testing of fabric, the
propagation of a
flame away from the
source of ignition.
In flammability testing of
fabric, the propagation of a
flame away from the source of
ignition. Flame-spread time is
the time taken by a flame on a
burning material to travel a
specified distance under
specified conditions
FLAME-RESISTANT
FABRIC
fabrics Fabric having flame
resistance.
Fabric having flame
resistance. Fabric, which
either will not burn, or will burn
so slowly as to allow time to
extinguish the flame or
discard the burning fabric and
thus obviate severe injury to
the wearer.
FLAME-
RETARDANT
A chemical used to
impart flame
resistance.
A chemical used to impart
flame resistance.
FLAME-
RETARDANT-
TREATMENT
processes,
operations
A process for
incorporating or
adding flame
retardant(s) to a
material or product.
A process for incorporating or
adding flame retardant(s) to a
material or product.
FLAMEPROOF
FABRIC
fabrics A fabric, which does
not propagate flame,
A fabric, which does not
propagate flame, i.e. any
flame goes out quickly when
the igniting flame is
withdrawn.
FLAMMABILITY general Those characteristics
of a material that
pertain to its relative
ease of ignition and
relative ability to
sustain combustion
Those characteristics of a
material that pertain to its
relative ease of ignition and
relative ability to sustain
combustion. Linen, cotton,
rayons, jute and kapok are
highly flammable fibres. They
catch alight quickly and
continue to burn when
withdrawn from flame. If the
actual cloth fire is
extinguished, there may be an
afterglow, which can re-ignite
the fabric or set fire to any
material nearby. Acetate does
not burn as readily as viscose
rayon, but the hot melt may
cause burns. Wool and silk
303
Word Category Short description Description
are less flammable fibres.
They burn slowly and do not
continue to burn or leave an
afterglow when withdrawn
from the flame. The synthetic
fibres melt, but they do not
burn unless in contact with a
flame for some time. The hot
melt, falling away from the
fabric, may cause severe
burns. Asbestos and glass are
non-flammable fibres. They
normally are not used for
clothing. Modacrylic fibres
such as Teklan and aramid
fibres such as Nomex have
extremely good flame
resistant properties.
FLAMMABLE
TEXTILE
general Any combustible
textile that burns with
a flame
Any combustible textile that
burns with a flame
FLAMM fabrics Woollen dress fabric
made from printed
yarns.
1. Woollen dress fabric made
from printed yarns.
2. Plain weave fabric
produced from yarn-dyed
linen warp and cotton weft,
used for tablecloths and
curtains
FLANGE LOCK
SLIDER
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In zippers. a slider
with notches in the
flanges of the slider
In zippers. a slider with
notches in the flanges of the
slider that block the shoulders
of the elements when the
stringers above the slider are
pulled apart, thus preventing
further separation of the
chain.
FLANGES apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In zippers, the edges
of the slider formed
to contain the chain.
In zippers, the edges of the
slider formed to contain the
chain.
FLANNEL fabrics The original was an
all-wool, underwear
fabric, dull-surfaced,
slightly fuzzy, rather
coarse and scratchy,
but now top class
flannel is in all-wool
or worsted fibre, of
plain or twill weave,
The original was an all-wool,
underwear fabric, dull-
surfaced, slightly fuzzy, rather
coarse and scratchy, but now
top class flannel is in all-wool
or worsted fibre, of plain or
twill weave, the yarns milled
during manufacture, soft and
full in handle with good
304
Word Category Short description Description
the yarns milled
during manufacture,
soft and full in handle
with good draping
properties
draping properties. During
finishing, surface fibre is
developed so that the weave
is partially or even completely
obscured. The nap is normally
non-directional and these
fabrics are traditionally
produced in white, or in wool-
dyed mixtures. It makes super
tailored clothes; it is soft,
warm and elastic with all the
properties of woollen cloth. A
small percentage of polyester
or other synthetic fibre may be
added, but if viscose is
included it makes a cheap
material that will not shape or
wear well. A lightweight cloth;
used for blazers, trousers,
womens suits, mens suits.
The so-called worsted flannel
is a fabric made from worsted
yarns and though the handle
is soft the surface fibre has
not been developed and the
weave remains visible.
FLANNELETTE fabrics Lightweight imitation
of wool flannel fabric.
Flannelette is made
from cotton, viscose,
modal or mixtures.
Lightweight imitation of wool
flannel fabric. Flannelette is
made from cotton, viscose,
modal or mixtures. They are
usually raised on both sides.
Soft yarns are used so that
the fuzzy, warm surface is
easily achieved. Made in
either plain weave, or in
simple twill and soft spun weft
is used to provide the nap and
the soft handle. These fabrics
are made in a variety of
colours in plains, stripes and
printed styles. Wears well, but
crease easily. Being cheap,
warm and washable they are
very popular for sheets,
childrens wear and nightwear.
But their easy flammability
lead eventually to legislation
designed to prevent their use
for night wear unless given a
305
Word Category Short description Description
durable flame resistant
treatment. Sometimes called
Gypsy cloth
FLANNELETTE
SHEETING
fabrics Sheeting made of
cotton and slightly
brushed for warmth.
Sheeting made of cotton and
slightly brushed for warmth.
Highly inflammable.
FLAP garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A shaped piece of
material, which
provides a covering
for a pocket mouth,
or for ornamentation.
A shaped piece of material,
which provides a covering for
a pocket mouth, or for
ornamentation.
FLARE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
In cord, the
spreading of the
filaments at the cut
end of a strand
In cord, the spreading of the
filaments at the cut end of a
strand or the spreading of
strand ends at the cut end of a
cord.
FLASH CURING processes,
operations
See under Curing. See under Curing.
FLASH SPINNING processes,
operations
A modification of the
dry spinning method
in which a solution of
a polymer is
extruded at a
temperature well
above its boiling
point
A modification of the dry
spinning method in which a
solution of a polymer is
extruded at a temperature well
above its boiling point, such
that, on emerging from the
spinneret, evaporation occurs
so rapidly that the individual
filaments are disrupted into
fine fibrils.
FLASH SPUN
FABRIC
fabrics A non-woven formed
from the fibrillation of
an extruded film by
the rapid evaporation
of solvent.
A non-woven formed from the
fibrillation of an extruded film
by the rapid evaporation of
solvent. This web may
subsequently be bonded.
FLASH-AGEING processes,
operations
In textile wet
processing, the
fixation by means of
a swift passage
through an
inexpensive ager
equipment
In textile wet processing, the
fixation by means of a swift
passage through an
inexpensive ager equipment
after padding in the necessary
chemicals.
FLAT defects See Wrong draw. See Wrong draw.
FLAT BED apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In sewing machine, a
type of bed
In sewing machine, a type of
bed, which provides a flat
unbroken surface with the
table in which it is mounted.
FLAT DUCK fabrics Duck fabric having
the warp of two
Duck fabric having the warp of
two single yarns woven as
306
Word Category Short description Description
single yarns woven
as one
one and either single or plied
weft yarn. See also Duck
FLAT FABRIC fabrics A two-dimensional
woven or knitted
fabric that has no
pile loops.
A two-dimensional woven or
knitted fabric that has no pile
loops.
FLAT HEM garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
In garment, a
hemming method
In garment, a hemming
method in which the stitches
pass over the edge of the hem
allowance to the garment
fabric
FLAT KNIT fabrics Knitting done in a flat
form
Knitting done in a flat form.
Hand-done on straight
needles by knitting back and
forth from side to side.
Machine flat knitting permits
full-fashioning.
FLAT KNIT FABRIC fabrics Knitting done in a flat
form
1. A fabric constructed on a
flatbed-knitting machine
instead of a circular knitting
unit. In the textile trade the
term flat knit is used to refer
only to weft knits made on a
flatbed machine.
2. In the underwear trade the
term flat knit is used to
indicate a fabric with a flat
surface as op-posed to a
ribbed surface
.
FLAT KNITTING
MACHINES
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A weft-knitting
machine
A weft-knitting machine
having straight needle beds
carrying independently
operated, usually latch
needles
FLAT METAL YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn consisting of
one or more
continuous lengths of
metal strip
A yarn consisting of one or
more continuous lengths of
metal strip or incorporating
one or more continuous
length(s) as a major
component. An example is the
single metal yarn in a
currency note.
Twist inserted in flat metal
yarns may form irregular
facets, which reflect light
accordingly to give decorative
effects in fabrics. See also
307
Word Category Short description Description
Metallized yarn.
FLAT SETTING processes,
operations
The setting of fabric
at open-width.
The setting of fabric at open-
width. The term is particularly
used in the finishing of woven
wool fabrics, where setting is
usually done by steaming
under pressure
FLAT SHEET garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under Sheeting. See under Sheeting.
FLAT YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Twistless yarn. 1. Description of fully drawn
continuous filament yarns,
substantially without twist and
untextured. See Twistless
yarn.
2. Fibre extracted from flax
plants
FLAT-FELLED SEAM seams,
stitches
A complex seam
formed on the
outside of an object
with raw edges
enclosed and two
rows of machine
stitching visible on
the face side.
A complex seam formed on
the outside of an object with
raw edges enclosed and two
rows of machine stitching
visible on the face side. A flat-
felled seam is made by (1)
placing two pieces of fabric
with back sides together, (2)
stitching on the 15 mm
seamline, (3) trimming one
half of one seam allowance,
(4) pressing the two seam
allowances to one side of the
article having the wider
allowance on top, (5) folding
the wider, untrimmed seam
allowance under until its raw
edge abuts with that of the
narrower seam allowance,
and (6) topstitching along the
folded edge through two
layers of seam allowance and
a layer of the object. The two
rows of stitching visible on the
face side are the seamline
and the topstitching through
the seam allowance and
object.
FLAT-SCREEN
PRINTING
processes,
operations
The mechanical
method by which the
cloth is printed using
The mechanical method by
which the cloth is printed
using a number of stationary
308
Word Category Short description Description
a number of
stationary flat
screens of a
rectangular shape,
working in a line.
flat screens of a rectangular
shape, working in a line. The
screens have colour pressed
through the mesh. When they
are lifted, the cloth moves on
the space of one repeat and
the process begins again.
FLATLOCK SEAM seams,
stitches
A butt seam formed
using a flatlock
stitch.
A butt seam formed using a
flatlock stitch. The edges of
the fabric are trimmed during
sewing.
FLAX fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Name of the basic
fibre from which linen
yarns and fabrics are
made.
Name of the basic fibre from
which linen yarns and fabrics
are made. Flax is a bast fibre
(of the species Linum
usitaitissimum), being
extracted from the stalk of flax
plant.
Flax fibres, formed of bundles
of cells cemented together,
are very long, upto 900 mm in
length. They are much longer
and coarser than cotton fibres
and their thickness is
irregular. Preparation of the
fibres consists of splitting
bundles of fibres, as obtained
from the stalks, into individual
long fi-bres and removing
waste and broken fibres.
Yarns produced from the long
fibres are known as line and
those produced from the
shorter irregular and broken
fibres are tow.
Yarns spun from flax tend to
be uneven because of the
length and variable thickness
of the fibres. A special
technique of spinning has to
be used for the yarns,
whereby the fibre cells are
loosened so that the yarn can
be drawn out to the requisite
fineness, because it is
impossible to draw out the
long fibres in their entirety.
Recent processing of linen
can alter the molecular
309
Word Category Short description Description
structure of the fibres, which
enables them to be purified,
bleached, crimped and cut to
staple lengths ready for
blending as spun yarns with
other fibres such as wool,
cotton, polyester or acrylic.
But the traditional method of
bleaching the yarn or finished
fabric rather than the fibres is
in greater use worldwide.
Flax is a cellulosic fibre, as is
cotton, but it has a higher wax
content, which together with a
higher degree of crystallinity
of the fibre, gives this
distinctive lustre associated
with linen. Purification of the
fibre requires a plurality of
treatment, which makes a
more expensive process than
cotton. Flax, an expensive but
attractive fibre, mixes well with
other fibres such as cotton
and wool. It is often called flax
when mixed in small
quantities. See Linen.
FLAX CANVAS fabrics See also Linen
canvas.
Some tailoring and
embroidery canvas fabrics are
referred to as flax canvas.
See also Linen canvas.
FLAX SPUN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A term applied to
staple yarn that has
been prepared and
spun on machinery
originally designed
for spinning yarns
from flax.
A term applied to staple yarn
that has been prepared and
spun on machinery originally
designed for spinning yarns
from flax.
FLAX, GREEN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Green flax See Green flax
FLCHAGE processes,
operations
A term applied to
staple yarn
Course shaping in knitting. A
term increasingly used to
define two and three-
dimensional shaping of knitted
fabric by increasing and/or
decreasing the length of
succeeding knitted courses to
310
Word Category Short description Description
a pre-planned series. Beret
knitting is also a term used to
describe this process. The
term is derived from the
French for wedge. See also
Stitch holding. .
FLECK defects A defect in yarn or
cloth caused by
spots of various
kinds
A defect in yarn or cloth
caused by spots of various
kinds
FLECK YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A type of fancy yarn. A type of fancy yarn. A
mixture yarn of spotted and
short streaky appearance, due
to the introduction of a
minority of fibres of different
colour and/or lustre.
FLEECE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibrous covering of a
sheep or similar
animal.
Fibrous covering of a sheep or
similar animal.
FLEECE WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Any wool as shorn
from a living sheep.
Any wool as shorn from a
living sheep. The term is in
use to distinguish this wool
from other forms such as skin
wool
FLEECED fabrics Term applied to
fabric that has a
napped surface
Term applied to fabric that has
a napped surface. The
process is often applied to knit
fabrics.
FLEECY fabrics Term used to
describe the feel and
implied warmth of
any fuzzy surfaced
fabric.
Term used to describe the feel
and implied warmth of any
fuzzy surfaced fabric. Fabric
resembles a wool fleece in
appearance and handle. The
fabrics vary in quality and
weight, but are mainly used
for coats. The fabric may be
cheap cotton, or acrylic, or it
may be wool. The nap wears
out on cheaper cloth.
Garments may be refurbished
with light hot iron, and
brushed up the fleece on the
right side. When used as a
lining fabric it is called fleecy
lining. Term is also used to
describe fabric having a fine,
soft, open, and raised
structure.
311
Word Category Short description Description
FLEECY FABRIC fabrics A plain, weft-knitted
fabric with a ground
yarn and in which a
yarn of low twist,
secured by a binder,
appears on the back
of the fabric and may
be brushed or raised.
A plain, weft-knitted fabric with
a ground yarn and in which a
yarn of low twist, secured by a
binder, appears on the back of
the fabric and may be brushed
or raised. Fleecy fabrics may
be pro-duced with only two
yarns. See also Laid fabric,
Laid-in fabric,warp-kntited and
Laid-in fabric,weft-knitted.
FLEECY LINING fabrics See under Fleecy. See under Fleecy.
FLEXIBILITY fabrics That property of a
fabric by virtue of
which it may be
flexed or bowed
repeatedly without
undergoing rupture.
That property of a fabric by
virtue of which it may be
flexed or bowed repeatedly
without undergoing rupture.
See also Hand of fabric.
FLEXIBLE RAPIER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A flexible long thin
blade
A flexible long thin blade used
to insert weft into the warp
shed from the side. .
FLEXIBLE RAPIER
LOOM
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A loom using flexible
rapiers.
A loom using flexible rapiers.
FLEXOGRAPHY processes,
operations
Printing from rubber
rollers cut in relief.
Printing from rubber rollers cut
in relief. In its rotary form, it is
used in the wallpaper industry
and is the main means of
printing transfer paper for
Transfer Printing.
FLEXURAL
RIGIDITY
general Resistance of textiles
to bending.
Resistance of textiles to
bending.
FLIPPER FABRIC fabrics See Filler Fabric
under Tyre Textiles.
See Filler Fabric under Tyre
Textiles.
FLOAT fabrics,
defects
1. In the woven
fabric, a yarn, which
passes over two or
more crosswise
yarns.
2. In warp-knitted
fabric, a length of
yarn not received by
a needle and
connecting two loops
of nonconsecutive
courses.
1. In the woven fabric, a yarn,
which passes over two or
more crosswise yarns. The
portion of a warp or weft yarn
that extends unbound over
two or more weft or warp
yarns. If it is present in a
fabric, unintended, it is a
defect. 2. In warp-knitted
fabric, a length of yarn not
received by a needle and
connecting two loops of
nonconsecutive courses. 3.
Fabric defect. A length of yarn
312
Word Category Short description Description
on the face of a fabric
between adjacent
intersections, i.e. a place in
the fabric where a warp or
weft yarn extends unbound
over the ends with which it
should be interlaced, caused
mostly by ends breaking out,
unclean warp or harness.
FLOATING FIBRE
INDEX
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Fibre
length.
See under Fibre length.
FLOCK accessories Very short fibres
obtained by reducing
textile fibres to
fragments
Very short fibres obtained by
reducing textile fibres to
fragments as by cutting,
tearing, or grinding, to give
various degrees of
comminution, intended for
application to a substrate as a
partial or complete surface
covering or filler. See also
Flocked fabric.
FLOCK DOT accessories Dots or figures of
flock applied to a
fabric with paste,
adhesive, or rubber
cement.
Dots or figures of flock applied
to a fabric with paste,
adhesive, or rubber cement.
They are usually washable.
FLOCK PRINTING processes,
operations
A way of decorating
fabric.
A way of decorating fabric. An
adhesive is printed on the
fabric and finely chopped
fibres are applied all over.
These adhere only to the
printed areas and are
mechanically removed from
the other parts of the fabric
FLOCKED BLANKET fabrics See under Blanket. See under Blanket.
FLOCKED FABRIC fabrics Many fabrics may be
flocked with very
short fibres stuck to it
and their
characteristic is that
the right side of the
fabric has tufts of
fibres added in dots
or patterns.
Many fabrics may be flocked
with very short fibres stuck to
it and their characteristic is
that the right side of the fabric
has tufts of fibres added in
dots or patterns. The fabrics
are usually light and floaty, the
flocking may be in contrast or
self colour and it may be
worked in a different type of
fibre. The flocks are normally
stuck on with an adhesive,
313
Word Category Short description Description
which is applied to the fabric
in a pattern. The surplus flock
fibres are afterwards blown
off. Flocked nylon is a
common fabric for saris, etc.
See also Flock
FLOCKING processes,
operations
A process by which
weight is added to
woollens
A process by which weight is
added to woollens by
steaming fibres in to the back
of the cloth.
FLOONN fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
A French term for
flaked yarn or fabric.
A French term for flaked yarn
or fabric. Also, woollen dress
goods or overcoating with a
deeply napped face which is
sometimes twisted into nubs
FLOODSTROKE processes,
operations
A single stroke (or
passage of the
squeegee) made
while the screens are
raised from the table,
in flat screen-
printing.
A single stroke (or passage of
the squeegee) made while the
screens are raised from the
table, in flat screen-printing.
This fills the mesh with print-
paste before the screen is
lowered to cloth level and the
usual squeegee stroke is
made; thus in the time of a
single stroke almost double
the quantity of print-paste is
applied to the cloth
FLOOR COVERING garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
An essentially planar
material
An essentially planar material,
having a relatively small
thickness in comparison to its
length or width, which is laid
on a floor to enhance the
beauty, comfort, and utility of
the floor.
FLOORING
MATERIAL
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Any pliable planar
structure used as a
base surface in
camping tentage
Any pliable planar structure
used as a base surface in
camping tentage, but
excluding such things as rugs
or carpets placed in the tent
that are not integral parts of
the item.
FLOPPED fabrics A form of packaging
of a long length of
fabric.
A form of packaging of a long
length of fabric. The fabric is
folded backwards and
forwards on itself over a
dimension between 0.6 m and
1 m. The finished form is like
a rectangular box. Flopped
314
Word Category Short description Description
fabric is considered to be in a
more relaxed state than rolled
fabric and is therefore the
desirable packaging form for
knitted fabric even though it
presents transportation
difficulties unless wrapped.
FLORENTINE fabrics Heavy grey woven
3/1 twill cotton fabric,
used for overalls and
uniforms
Heavy grey woven 3/1 twill
cotton fabric, used for overalls
and uniforms
FLOSS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A silky embroidery
yarn.
1. Very short tangled fibre of
waste silk.
2. A silky embroidery yarn.
FLOUNCE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A ruffled drop on a
bedcovering.
A ruffled drop on a
bedcovering.
FLOUNCING fabrics Fabric of any type of
fibre which has one
selvedge shaped in
scallops.
Fabric of any type of fibre
which has one selvedge
shaped in scallops. The edge
is finished off, usually with
embroidery.
FLUID-J ET LOOM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See under
Shuttleless loom.
See under Shuttleless loom.
FLUIDITY general Fluidity of a cellulose
solution
Fluidity of a cellulose solution,
is a measure of the ease of
flow or motion of a solution,
and therefore an indicator of
the molecular weight of the
cellulose.
FLUORESCENT
BRIGHTENING
AGENT
A decorative lace See Fluorescent whitening
agent.
FLUORESCENT
DYES
Dyes which reflect
more light than
conventional dyes.
Dyes which reflect more light
than conventional dyes. This
adds brilliancy or iridescent
appearance to yarns and
fabrics. See also Fluorescent
whitening agent
FLUORESCENT
WHITENING AGENT
chemicals,
textile
auxiliaries
These colourless
compounds are used
for imparting
outstanding
whiteness to textiles.
Also called Fluorescent
brightening agent and Optical
brightening agent. These
colourless compounds are
used for imparting outstanding
whiteness to textiles. Although
not strictly considered dyes,
315
Word Category Short description Description
fluorescent whitening agents
add light to substrate. They
absorb incident near UV
radiation and re-emit visible
(violet-blue) radiation. They
counteract the reflection of
excessive yellow by addition
of light emitted at the blue end
of the colour spectrum. They
thereby not only improve the
distribution over the special
range but also add to the total
amount of light reflected. This
causes a yellowish material to
which it has been applied to
appear whiter.
FLUOROCARBON
FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
All fibres with a high
proportion of fluorine
atoms as
substituents on the
carbon chain of a
polymer molecule.
Also called Fluoropolymer
fibre. All fibres with a high
proportion of fluorine atoms as
substituents on the carbon
chain of a polymer molecule.
FLUOROFIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A term used to
describe fibres
composed of linear
macromolecules
made from
fluorocarbon
aliphatic monomers.
A term used to describe fibres
composed of linear
macromolecules made from
fluorocarbon aliphatic
monomers.
FLUOROPOLYMER
FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Fluorocarbon
fibre.
See Fluorocarbon fibre.
FLUSHING fabrics A heavy woollen
coating cloth
originally made in
Flushing, Holland.
A heavy woollen coating cloth
originally made in Flushing,
Holland. See also Duffel.
FLY garments,
made-ups,
assemblies,
fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
defects
A fabric-covered
opening, to conceal
a fastening (e.g.
buttons, zip).
1. A fabric-covered opening,
to conceal a fastening (e.g.
buttons, zip). A blind fly is
fastened instead of left open
along the finished edge.
2. Fibres, which fly out into the
atmosphere during carding,
drawing, spinning or other
textile proc-esses.
3. Yarn defect, usually minor,
but severe size and colour
could be major. Mostly caused
316
Word Category Short description Description
in the spin-ning process.
Small fibres (flies), spun into
the yarn of another stock,
often caused by the lack of
precaution to prevent
contamination. See also Lint
FLY CATCH garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See Catch. See Catch.
FLY SHIELD garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A piece of fabric that
extends beyond the
zipper teeth on the
underlapping side of
a fly-front zipper
application
A piece of fabric that extends
beyond the zipper teeth on the
underlapping side of a fly-front
zipper application
FLY SHOT LOOM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A multi-piece
weaving machine for
narrow fabrics
A multi-piece weaving
machine for narrow fabrics in
which each shuttle is knocked
through the open shed by
means of a peg fixed in a
slide. The term is also
sometimes applied to single-
head narrow-fabric looms.
FLY-FRONT
APPLICATION
accessories A method of zipper
application, in which
the zipper is
concealed by a wide
flap of fabric and a
fabric shield covers
the back of the
zipper.
A method of zipper
application, in which the
zipper is concealed by a wide
flap of fabric and a fabric
shield covers the back of the
zipper. Fly-front application
typically used is at the centre
of mens pants.
FLYER defects See Loom fly See Loom fly
FLYER SPINNING processes,
operations
A spinning system in
which yarn passes
through a revolving
flyer leg guide on to
the package
A spinning system in which
yarn passes through a
revolving flyer leg guide on to
the package. The yarn is
wound-on by making the flyer
and spinning package rotate
at slightly different speeds.
See also Spinning
FLYLINE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The line of the fly
fastening from the
centre of the fork to
the top of the
waistband on a pair
of trou-sers.
The line of the fly fastening
from the centre of the fork to
the top of the waistband on a
pair of trou-sers.
FOAM general A dispersion of a gas A dispersion of a gas in a
317
Word Category Short description Description
in a liquid or solid. liquid or solid.
FOAM BONDING processes,
operations
A method of making
non-woven fabrics
A method of making non-
woven fabrics in which a fibre
web or batt is treated by
application of a foamed
adhesive material. See also
Adhesive bonded non-woven
fabric.
FOAM TEAR fabrics In laminated fabrics,
a condition wherein
the foam portion of
the fabric ruptures
prior to the failure of
the bond.
In laminated fabrics, a
condition wherein the foam
portion of the fabric ruptures
prior to the failure of the bond.
FOAM-BACKED
FABRIC
fabrics See Laminates. See Laminates.
FOGMARKING processes,
operations
The soiling of textiles
during processing by
deposition of
atmospheric dirt.
The soiling of textiles during
processing by deposition of
atmospheric dirt. The stains
are characterised by their
resistance to removal by
normal scouring processes.
FOLD processes,
operations
To combine by
twisting together two
or more single yarns
to form a fodder
yarn.
Also known as Double, Twist
and Ply. To combine by
twisting together two or more
single yarns to form a fodder
yarn.
FOLDED
SELVEDGE
fabrics See Curled
selvedge.
See Curled selvedge.
FOLDED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Doubled
yarn and Plied yarn.
Also called Doubled yarn and
Plied yarn. A yarn in which
two or more single yarns are
combined by a single twisting
operation.
FOLDER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A machine for
measuring and
folding piece goods.
1. A machine for measuring
and folding piece goods.
2. In sewing machine, an
attachment which folds
material as it is fed through so
that it is sewn in to the desired
configuration.
FOLDING DEFECTS
IN GARMENT
defects See under Garment
defects, classified.
See under Garment defects,
classified.
FOLK WEAVE fabrics Loosely woven,
coarse yarn fabrics
with a woven pattern
often including
Loosely woven, coarse yarn
fabrics with a woven pattern
often including several
colours. Woven on dobby or
318
Word Category Short description Description
several colours. J acquard looms. Yarns used
are cotton, viscose, acrylic.
Patterns are usually striped
with possibly diamonds or
other small patterns between
them. Do not crease easily
and are used for bedcovers,
curtains, loose covers and
cushion covers.
FONDU processes,
operations
See Rainbowing. See Rainbowing.
FORCE general A physical influence
exerted by one body
on another
A physical influence exerted
by one body on another which
produces acceleration of
bodies that are free to move
and deformation of bodies that
are not free to move.
(Compare Strength.)
FORCE AT BREAK general See Breaking force. See Breaking force.
FORCE-AT-
RUPTURE
general The force applied to
a material
immediately
preceding rupture.
The force applied to a material
immediately preceding
rupture.
FOREIGN BODY defects Fabric defect. An
inclusion of non-
textile matter.
Fabric defect. An inclusion of
non-textile matter. The defect
is often caused by insufficient
attention to the cleanliness of
the weaving/knitting machines
and the production room.
FOREIGN FIBRES defects Fabric defect Fabric defect. Fibres of a
different type and/or colour
from the other fibres in the
fabric. It is often caused by
the contamination of the fabric
by extraneous fibre which is
either included in the yarn or
woven/knitted into the fabric.
FOREIGN MATTER fibers,
filaments,
yarns
In cotton, non-lint
material commonly
referred to as waste
or trash such as
dust, sand, seed-
coat fragments,
leaves, and stems
normally present in
raw and partially
processed cotton.
In cotton, non-lint material
commonly referred to as
waste or trash such as dust,
sand, seed-coat fragments,
leaves, and stems normally
present in raw and partially
processed cotton.
319
Word Category Short description Description
FOREPARTS garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The fronts of a jacket
or coat.
The fronts of a jacket or coat.
This section of the garment
extends from the front edge to
the side seam horizontally and
from the hem to the shoulder
seam vertically.
FORK garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See also Crutch. The point of a pair of trousers
at which the legs join. See
also Crutch.
FORK QUANTITY garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The allowance of
material in bifurcated
garments
The allowance of material in
bifurcated garments provided
for the thickness through the
trunk from front to back at the
crutch.
FORM processes,
operations
In hat manufacture,
the production of a
loosely constructed
cone of fur
In hat manufacture, the
production of a loosely
constructed cone of fur by
drawing a weighed quantity of
blown fur onto a revolving
perforated metal cone, the
adhering layer of fur being
moistened by spraying with
water and subsequently
carefully removed from the
cone by hand.
FORMED FABRIC fabrics An assembly of
textile fibres held
together by such
techniques as the
mechanical
interlocking of fibres
in a web, by fusing of
thermoplastic fibre,
or by bonding fibres
with added adhesive
substance.
An assembly of textile fibres
held together by such
techniques as the mechanical
interlocking of fibres in a web,
by fusing of thermoplastic
fibre, or by bonding fibres with
added adhesive substance.
FORMED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Plied yarn See Plied yarn
FORTUNE fabrics A combination yarn
fabric
A combination yarn fabric
which employed acetate voile
yarns and combination
acetate-rayon yarns in warp
and weft. Used mainly for
womens apparel.
FOULARD fabrics Soft, printed,
lightweight plain or
Soft, printed, lightweight plain
or twill-weave fabric, which
320
Word Category Short description Description
twill-weave fabric,
which can be made
of silk, acetate,
viscose, polyester or
triacetate
can be made of silk, acetate,
viscose, polyester or
triacetate. Printed patterns
usually take the form of small
figures on contrasting back-
ground colours. Used for soft-
styled dresses and blouses,
robes, scarves and mens light
dressing gowns.
FOUL fabrics A fabric in twill
weave with a finish
that is neither
sheared nor singed.
A fabric in twill weave with a
finish that is neither sheared
nor singed. The surface is
rough; considerable shrinkage
gives the texture. Derived
from the French word fouler,
meaning, to full or to shrink
FOUNDATION NET fabrics See under Ground. See under Ground.
FOUR-HARNESS
SATIN
fabrics See under Crowfoot. See under Crowfoot.
FOX fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The fur is blue-gray,
red or silver in
colour, the tail is
often used as
trimming and an
interesting effect is
achieved by adding
the fur from the
paws.
The fur is blue-gray, red or
silver in colour, the tail is often
used as trimming and an
interesting effect is achieved
by adding the fur from the
paws.
FOY fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Fully oriented
yarn
See Fully oriented yarn
FRAME YARN garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Pile yarn in a Wilton
carpet type.
Pile yarn in a Wilton carpet
type.
FRANCIES fabrics Fabrics, which are
woven or coloured in
patterns
Fabrics, which are woven or
coloured in patterns
FRAY defects,
processes,
operations
See Felter. 1. When a shifting or slipping
of one set of yarns over the
other occurs in the woven
cloth, or at the cut or
unfinished stage.
2. See Felter.
3. To ravel or wear out
threads in a fabric so that
cross threads are loose.
FREE ALKALI Caustic soda and Caustic soda and caustic
321
Word Category Short description Description
caustic potash that
have not been united
with any neutralising
substance.
potash that have not been
united with any neutralising
substance. This form of alkali
harms wool and silk fabrics if
a soap containing free alkali is
used to clean them.
FREE DYE
CONTAMINATION
general An impurity of the
drycleaning solvent;
known as dye
bleeding that occurs
most often in hot,
summer months.
An impurity of the drycleaning
solvent; known as dye
bleeding that occurs most
often in hot, summer months.
Sufficient carbon should be in
the filtering system to absorb
the dye. See Insoluble soil
and Solvent-soluble soil.
FREE-FIBRE-END
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
An air-jet textured
yarn in which the
protruding filament
loops are cut or
broken.
An air-jet textured yarn in
which the protruding filament
loops are cut or broken. Such
yarn resembles a spun staple
yarn, because of its hairy
surface
FRENCH BACK
WEAVE
fabrics See Backed cloth
weave.
See Backed cloth weave.
FRENCH CLEANING processes,
operations
Drycleaning was
originally known as
French cleaning.
Drycleaning was originally
known as French cleaning.
FRENCH CRPE fabrics Very soft lightweight,
inexpensive fabric
Very soft lightweight,
inexpensive fabric for lingerie,
now usually made from
polyamide.
FRENCH CRPE
CORD
accessories See under Cable
cord.
See under Cable cord.
FRENCH DOUBLE
PIQU
fabrics See under Double
piqu.
See under Double piqu.
FRENCH KNOT seams,
stitches
A decorative
embroidery stitch
A decorative embroidery stitch
made by twisting the thread
several times around the
needle.
FRENCH SEAM seams,
stitches
A complex seam
formed on the inside
of the object with
both raw edges
enclosed and no
stitching rows visible
on the face side.
A complex seam formed on
the inside of the object with
both raw edges enclosed and
no stitching rows visible on
the face side. A French seam
is made by (1) placing two
pieces of fabric with back
sides together, (2) stitching a
seam line 10 mm from the raw
edge, (3) pressing the seam
322
Word Category Short description Description
flat and then open, (4)
trimming the seam allowance
to 3 mm if the fabric does not
ravel easily, or slightly less
than 6 mm if the fabric ravels
easily, (5) slightly clipping or
notching, as appropriate, any
curved edges in order to lie
flat, (6) folding the face sides
of the fabric together, (7)
pressing again with the
stitched seam exactly on the
folded edge, and (8) stitching
6 mm from the folded edge
which results in completely
enclosing the seam
allowance. These two seam
allowances make a total of 15
mm, the standard seam
allowance. No stitching lines
are visible from the face side.
(Compare Mock French
seam.)
FRENCH SERGE fabrics Very superior quality
serge fabric
Very superior quality serge
fabric used for womens
tailored clothes.
FRENCH TACK processes,
operations
A method of
attaching one part of
a garment to another
A method of attaching one
part of a garment to another
while still allowing ease
between them.
FRENCH WELT garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See Tubular welt
under Welt.
See Tubular welt under Welt.
FRICTION general In physics, friction is
the force that
opposes the relative
motion of two bodies
in contact.
In physics, friction is the force
that opposes the relative
motion of two bodies in
contact. Friction is greatly
reduced by the use of
lubricants such as oil, grease,
and graphite. Air bearings are
now used to minimise friction
in high speed rotational
machinery. In simple terms,
friction is the resistance to the
relative motion of one body
sliding, rolling, or flowing over
another body with which it is
in contact. See Coefficient of
323
Word Category Short description Description
friction.
FRICTION
CALENDERING
processes,
operations
The process of
passing fabric
through a calender
The process of passing fabric
through a calender in which a
highly polished, usually
heated, steel bowl rotates at
higher surface speed than a
softer (e.g. cotton- or paper-
filled) bowl against which it
works, thus producing a glaze
on the face of the fabric that is
in contact with the steel bowl.
The friction ratio is the ratio of
the peripheral speed of the
faster steel bowl to that of the
slower bowl and is normally in
the range of 1.5 to 3.0.
FRICTION
SPINNING
processes,
operations
A method of open-
end spinning which
uses the external
surface of two
rotating rollers to
collect and twist
individual fibres into
yarn
A method of open-end
spinning which uses the
external surface of two
rotating rollers to collect and
twist individual fibres into
yarn. At least one of the
rollers is perforated so that air
can be drawn through its
surface to facilitate fibre
collection. The twisting occurs
near the nip of the rollers and,
because of the relatively large
difference between the yarn
and roller diameters, high yarn
rotational speeds are
achieved by the friction
between the roller surface and
the yarns. See also Spinning.
FRICTION TOWEL fabrics A terry cloth with
linen pile
A terry cloth with linen pile,
made to develop friction after
bathing
FRICTION
TWISTING
processes,
operations
The generation of
false-twist
The generation of false-twist
by a device in which the yarn
lies in contact with one or
more surfaces of high friction
driven in a direction at a
substantial angle to the yarn
axis. In practise, friction disks,
belts or bushes, are
commonly used. One rotation
of the disc, belts, or bushes
generates many turns of twist.
324
Word Category Short description Description
See also Pin-twisting.
FRICTIONAL
CONSTRAINT
general The force imposed
by the multitude of
fibre-to-fibre contacts
within a fabric.
1. The force imposed by the
multitude of fibre-to-fibre
contacts within a fabric.
2. In textile wet processing,
the resistance to fibre
movement imposed by fibre-
to-fibre contacts within a
fabric.
FRIEZE fabrics Named after
Friesland in Holland,
it is a heavy woollen
overcoating
Named after Friesland in
Holland, it is a heavy woollen
overcoating with a rough,
fuzzy, and frizzy face
FRIGIDINESS fabrics A type of haircloth. A type of haircloth.
FRINGE accessories An edging or border
of loose threads,
tassels, or loops
1. An edging or border of
loose threads, tassels, or
loops. These may be
produced by the constituent
threads or by threads added
to a fabric after weaving or
knitting.
2. Narrow fabric trimming,
which has, on both edges, cut
or looped weft threads, which
extend sub-stantially beyond
the width of the warp threads
to form a decorative edge.
The threads forming the fringe
are bunched or knotted
together to increase the
decorative effect. Tassels,
balls, or other adornments are
sometimes added. That part
of a fringe comprising both
warp and weft is known as the
heading. That part of a fringe
containing only weft is known
as skirt.
See also Bullion fringe.
FRINGED
EMBROIDERY
fabrics Base fabric, usually
synthetic, with
fringing on one edge
Base fabric, usually synthetic,
with fringing on one edge. For
draping, the fringe is often
viscose rayon.
FRISE fabrics See Frieze See Frieze
FRISONS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Kibisu,
Knubbs, Strusa.
Also called Kibisu, Knubbs,
Strusa.The first waste
obtained in the process of
325
Word Category Short description Description
reeling silk cocoons,
composed of the tangled first
lengths of the silk filament
which are removed by the
reeler upto the point when the
filament begins to reel
properly.
FRISURE fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
accessories
A core yarn made
with gold or silver
thread wound around
the central thread.
1. A core yarn made with gold
or silver thread wound around
the central thread. Used for
passe-menterie.
2. A thin gold or silver wire
braid used on military
uniforms.
FRIZZING processes,
operations
A finishing process
employed on wool
chinchilla fabric.
A finishing process employed
on wool chinchilla fabric.
FROCKING fabrics A coarse cotton cloth
such as denim, drill,
dungaree, jean, or
fustain, etc.
A coarse cotton cloth such as
denim, drill, dungaree, jean, or
fustain, etc.
FROG POCKET garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A trouser pocket
opening
A trouser pocket opening
approximately 12 cm. across
the waist band from the side
seam, and about 12 cm. down
the side seam from the waist
band seam, which is fastened
in the corner with a hole and
button and when opened,
folded down to form a
triangular flap.
FRONT
BREAKPOINT
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related
term.
Garment-related term. See
under Garment sizing system.
FRONT RISE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The distance on a
garment from the
crutch to the centre
front of the waistline
The distance on a garment
from the crutch to the centre
front of the waistline
FROSTED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A flecked yarn spun
from a blend of
acetate staple and
cotton or rayon
staple.
A flecked yarn spun from a
blend of acetate staple and
cotton or rayon staple. When
dyed only the cotton takes the
colour, the acetate remaining
white and giving the flecked
appearance
FROSTING defects Also called Colour
abrasion.
Also called Colour abrasion. A
change colour of fabric
326
Word Category Short description Description
caused by localised abrasive
wear. Frosting may be the
result of differential wear, as
in multicomponent blends in
which the fibres do not match
in shade, or of the abrasion of
single-fibre constructions in
which there is some variation
in penetration or incomplete
penetration of dye-stuff. The
use of the terms Differential
wear and Fibrillation as
substitutes for the concept of
frosting is undesirable.
FUGITIVE DYE See Fugitive tint. See Fugitive tint.
FUGITIVE TINT chemicals,
textile
auxiliaries
A colorant lacking
durability to one or
more of the various
colour destroying
agents such as
sunlight or washing.
Also called Sighting colour
and Fugitive dye. A colorant
lacking durability to one or
more of the various colour
destroying agents such as
sunlight or washing. Often
applied to textile materials for
their identification during
handling. The colorant can be
easily removed during normal
textile scouring or dyeing
processes.
FUJ I fabrics Should be pure silk,
but may be imitated
in viscose, acetate,
triacetate yarn.
Should be pure silk, but may
be imitated in viscose,
acetate, triacetate yarn. Only
difference in use and handling
between these and pure silk
would be the necessity for a
cooler iron and moisture if
necessary.
FULL BUST GIRTH garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related
term.
Garment-related term. See
under Garment sizing system.
FULL CARDIGAN
RIB
fabrics See Polka rib. See Polka rib.
FULL-BLEACH
FINISH
processes,
operations
The process of
bleaching cotton
textile goods to a
clear white.
The process of bleaching
cotton textile goods to a clear
white. During the process the
cotton has all its natural
colouring matter removed.
See Half-bleach finish.
FULLING processes, A finishing process in Also called Waulking and
327
Word Category Short description Description
operations the woollen industry,
which involves the
application of
moisture, heat,
friction and pressure.
sometimes referred to as
Tucking. A finishing process in
the woollen industry, which
involves the application of
moisture, heat, friction and
pressure. It results in felting,
shrinking and thickening of the
wool, and may produce further
varied effects depending upon
the extent of the process.
FULLNESS garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The additional
amount of one of the
fabrics joined at a
seam, which is
allowed, in order to
create the desired
shape in a part of a
finished garment,
e.g. a sleeve head.
The additional amount of one
of the fabrics joined at a
seam, which is allowed, in
order to create the desired
shape in a part of a finished
garment, e.g. a sleeve head.
See also Easing-in.
FULLY CUT
GARMENT
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Fully cut is a class of
knitted garment
derived from piece
goods. All the edges
of the pieces of the
garment are cut. The
term fully cut
describes the
processes most akin
to making garments
from woven fabric.
Fully cut is a class of knitted
garment derived from piece
goods. All the edges of the
pieces of the garment are cut.
The term fully cut describes
the processes most akin to
making garments from woven
fabric. Garments are cut from
piece goods fabric, laid up
(spread) on to cutting tables.
All parts of the garment other
than the trims are cut fromthe
lay. Each garment piece has
all edges cut, hence the term
fully cut. The garments are
assembled by seaming
machines, often of a specialist
nature, and trims are added
where appropriate. The fabric
for this process is invariably
knitted on circular knitting
machines; mostly on Single
jersey or plain web machine
and Double jersey or rib
machine. These machines
vary in diameter, the number
of needles per inch/centimetre
(gauge), the number of
courses they can knit in one
revolution (number of
328
Word Category Short description Description
feeders), and their fabric
patterning capabilities.
FULLY DRAWN
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Fully oriented
yarn.
See Fully oriented yarn.
FULLY FASHIONED
GARMENT
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Fully fashioned are
garments
constructed from
garment portions of
weft knitted fabric
having shaped
selvages.
Fully fashioned are garments
constructed from garment
portions of weft knitted fabric
having shaped selvages. In
this process the shapes of the
pieces are generated by
movement of loops at the
edges to diminish or enlarge
the width of the fabric i.e. the
portions of a garment are
shaped at the selvedges by
progressively increasing or
decreasing the number of
loops in the width of the fabric.
Such narrowing and widening
produces the shape of a piece
of garment that would
otherwise be generated by
cutting.
FULLY FASHIONING processes,
operations
In weft knitting, a
term applied to
garment portions in
which the parts are
shaped by widening
and/or narrowing by
loop transference to
increase or decrease
the number of wales
In weft knitting, a term applied
to garment portions in which
the parts are shaped by
widening and/or narrowing by
loop transference to increase
or decrease the number of
wales. The pre-shaped pieces
are subsequently stitched
together to form a garment.
See also Fully fashioned
garment.
FULLY ORIENTED
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Fully
drawn yarn.
Also called Fully drawn yarn.
A melt-spun continuous
filament yarn that has been
highly oriented either by
drawing at a high draw ratio or
by spinning at a high wind-up
speed such that little or no
residual drawability remains.
These terms are used in
contrast to Low orientation
yarn and Partially oriented
yarn.
FUME FADING processes, See Atmospheric See Atmospheric fading.
329
Word Category Short description Description
operations fading.
FUNICULI fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Funiculus. See Funiculus.
FUNICULUS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The slender stalk of
an ovule or seed
The slender stalk of an ovule
or seed, by which the growing
seed is attached to the
placenta of the boll. Plural is
Funiculi.
FUR fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The fine, soft, dense
hair covering of
certain mammals
The fine, soft, dense hair
covering of certain mammals.
Fur is distinguished from hair
which is comparatively longer
and harsher. Fur fibre is
generally spun in combination
with other fibres, e.g. wool,
cotton, and rayon staple fibre.
FUR FABRIC fabrics Also called Fake
furs.
Also called Fake furs.
Imitation fur is made from
synthetic fibre, usually acrylic
or nylon pile, on a firm jersey
or woven backing, with the
fibres knitted directly into the
cloth. Is fairly expensive,
available in a wide range of
colours and types, some
deliberately imitating real fur,
some blatantly unreal. Used
for coats, jackets, childrens
coats, hats, collars, cuffs, etc.
FUR FELT fabrics Sometimes rabbit,
rat and beaver hairs
are added to felt to
give a sheen and
surface texture.
Sometimes rabbit, rat and
beaver hairs are added to felt
to give a sheen and surface
texture. These felts are
expensive and usually only
used for millinery.
FUR TRIMMING accessories Fur strips cut in
lengths or taken from
a roll according to
requirements.
Fur strips cut in lengths or
taken from a roll according to
requirements. From fur fabric
or real fur which are available
in strips normally from about 6
to 20 cm in width. The fur is
usually backed with a thin
layer of synthetic foam and
edged with cotton tape. Real
furs will have been joined
before being backed. This
edging may be used for hats,
330
Word Category Short description Description
cuffs, collars, etc., and is
applied to existing detail. It is
useful for lengthening coats,
but in this case it must be
backed with lining, or the coat
first lengthened with cloth
before the fur strip is applied
on top.
FURNISHING
BRUSH/ROLLER
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The brush/roller that
rotates in the colour
trough
The brush/roller that rotates in
the colour trough and supplies
the printing roller with colour
in engraved cylinder or
surface roller printing
FURNISHING
FABRICS
fabrics A term for decorative
fabrics of all kinds,
such as upholstery
and drapery.
A term for decorative fabrics
of all kinds, such as
upholstery and drapery.
FURNITURE CORD garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See Upholstery cord See Upholstery cord
FURNITURE
COVERING
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A general term for
attached upholstery
fabric, slipcovers and
throws.
A general term for attached
upholstery fabric, slipcovers
and throws.
FUSE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
To melt with the
application of heat.
To melt with the application of
heat. Thermoplastic fibres
melt or fuse between 400 to
500 F., and therefore require
lower temperatures when
ironing or pressing
FUSED COLLAR
FABRIC
fabrics Specially prepared
interlining for shirt
collars. It is bonded
or fused to the two
outer plies of the
collar by the
application of
solvents, heat and
pressure.
Specially prepared interlining
for shirt collars. It is bonded or
fused to the two outer plies of
the collar by the application of
solvents, heat and pressure.
There are two methods
bonding generally used.
In the wet process, an
interlining made of cotton
interwoven with acetate yarn
is fused to the two outer plies
of the collar by the application
of an acetone base solvent,
which plasticizes the acetate
fibres, plus heat and pressure.
In the dry process a cotton
interlining is coated with
acetate cellulose film, which is
331
Word Category Short description Description
softened by steam and heat,
and under pressure it
becomes a bond between the
cotton interlining and the two
outer plies.
FUSED FABRIC fabrics A type of bonded
fabric
A type of bonded fabric made
by adhering a fusible fabric to
another fabric, such as for use
in interlining.
FUSED SELVEDGE fabrics See under Selvedge See under Selvedge
FUSIBLE FABRIC fabrics A utilitarian fabric
which has a
thermoplastic
adhesive applied to
one side
A utilitarian fabric which has a
thermoplastic adhesive
applied to one side,
sometimes in a pattern of
dots, so that the surface can
be bonded to another fabric
surface by the use of heat and
pressure. See also Laminates
FUSIBLE
INTERLINING
fabrics An interlining fabric An interlining fabric, which has
been treated so that it adhere
to other fabrics by the
application of heat and
pressure.
FUSING processes,
operations
The action of
bonding a fusible
interlining to a
garment piece, by
the action of heat
and pressure.
The action of bonding a
fusible interlining to a garment
piece, by the action of heat
and pressure.
FUSING DEFECTS
IN GARMENT
defects See under Garment
defects, classified.
See under Garment defects,
classified..
FUSTIAN fabrics Any class of hard-
wearing type of
clothing fabric,
heavily wefted, made
from different natural
fibres mostly cotton
Any class of hard-wearing
type of clothing fabric, heavily
wefted, made from different
natural fibres mostly cotton,
e.g. Swansdown, Imperial
Sateen, Moleskin, Velveteen,
Corduroy.
FUSTIC A natural yellow
dyestuff
A natural yellow dyestuff
obtained from the heartwood
of the tree Chlorophora
tinctoria. Mainly employed in
dyeing wool. Now largely in
disuse.
FUZZ fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Untangled fibre ends
that protrude from
the surface of a yarn
Untangled fibre ends that
protrude from the surface of a
yarn or fabric.
332
Word Category Short description Description
or fabric.
FUZZ BALL defects Fabric defect Fabric defect. Also called Lint
ball, Snow ball, Balling up.
Loose and frayed fibres that
have formed into a ball and
have then been woven or
knitted into the fabric
FUZZING defects A fabric condition
characterised by a
hairy appearance
due to broken fibres
or filaments.
Also called Fuzzy and Hairy.
A fabric condition
characterised by a hairy
appearance due to broken
fibres or filaments. This
unwanted change in
appearance of the fabric can
occur during washing, dry
cleaning, testing or in wear.
FUZZY defects See Fuzzing. See Fuzzing.
FUZZY PATTERN defects Printing defect. Printing defect. The edges of
printed patterns are not sharp,
sharp, clear lines, but are
instead rather fuzzy lines.
Most frequently caused by
improperly thickened print
paste. Sometimes it may also
occur, if the fabric is not
properly singed.
FWA See Fluorescent
whitening agent.
See Fluorescent whitening
agent.

G

Word Category Short description Description
GABERDINE fabrics Traditionally it was a
fine quality wool
fabric showing clear
prominent steep
sloping twill with a
prominent rib on the
face and a flat back.
Always has more
warp than weft. Long
floats make the
diagonal lines, and
there are short floats
between the wales.
Traditionally it was a fine quality
wool fabric showing clear
prominent steep sloping twill
with a prominent rib on the face
and a flat back. Always has
more warp than weft. Long
floats make the diagonal lines,
and there are short floats
between the wales. Fabric is
lightweight and, due to the close
weave and steep slope of the
rib, gaberdine (especially
gaberdine worsted) is
amazingly water repellent.
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Word Category Short description Description
Other fibres used include
cotton, viscose, wool, silk,
polyester and cotton. The steep
twill is obtained by setting the
warp yarns closely together,
and opening the weft yarn
spacing. The face twills are
made prominent by arranging
the loom so that warp yarns on
the back of the cloth are pulled
together than those on the face.
The 2/2 twill is the standard
weave, but the 2/1 twill is also
used. Union gaberdines are
made using a worsted wool
warp and a cotton weft. The
special construction hides the
weft almost completely. Very
fine construction can be used in
all cotton gaberdines and
fabrics of staple fibre rayon are
also made. Whilst it is primarily
a rainwear fabric gaberdine is
made in a variety of weights,
constructions and colours for
dress and suiting use; some of
the cotton dress styles are
made in a drill (3/1) weave.
GAGE general See Gauge. See Gauge.
GAGING THREAD accessories A heavy thread
temporarily woven
near the edge of a
fabric.
A heavy thread temporarily
woven near the edge of a fabric.
It is withdrawn, after weaving,
leaving the filling threads
forming a loop selvedge. Similar
to Catch cord.
GAIT fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
apparatus,
equipage,
tools,
processes,
operations
IN FLAX. A large
handful of loose,
pulled flax, stood up
on end in a cone
form to dry.
1. IN FLAX. A large handful of
loose, pulled flax, stood up on
end in a cone form to dry.
2. IN LACE MACHINES.
(a) The distance between the
centres of adjacent comb
blades.
(b) A measure of the distance
over which a thread is moved,
e.g. two gaits means across
two spaces.
3. IN WEAVING.
(a) Also called Gait-up, Gaiting.
334
Word Category Short description Description
General term used to describe
the positioning of the warp,
healds, and reed in the loom, in
readiness for weaving. Where
drop wires are inserted on the
warp during warp preparation,
gaiting also includes the
positioning of the drop wires in
the loom. See also Loom-ing.
(b) A full repeat of the draft in
the healds, or in case of
jacquard, in one complete row
of the har-ness.
GAIT UP processes,
operations
See Gait See Gait
GAIT-OVER fabrics A complete repeat
design in dobby
weave.
A complete repeat design in
dobby weave.
GAITING processes,
operations
See Gait and Gating See Gait and Gating
GALA TWILL fabrics A four up, four down,
twill weave.
A four up, four down, twill
weave.
GALATEA fabrics Cotton fabric in twill
weave, made plain,
or in simple stripe
patterns
Cotton fabric in twill weave,
made plain, or in simple stripe
patterns, for nurses uniforms,
childrens clothes, linings. Is
given a hard lustrous finish,
which repels dirt
GALLOON accessories Ribbon used as a
band on mens hats,
and as a binding on
ladies court shoes
1. Ribbon used as a band on
mens hats, and as a binding on
ladies court shoes; the metallic
ones used to decorate uniforms.
2. Any narrow fabric used for
trimming.
GALLOON LACE fabrics Lace fabric with a
finished scalloped
edge on both sides
Lace fabric with a finished
scalloped edge on both sides.
See also Banded laces.
GAPING defects Fabric defect in
crpe goods, caused
by irregular
shrinkage of the
yarns.
Fabric defect in crpe goods,
caused by irregular shrinkage of
the yarns. An uneven twist in
the yarn causes the irregular
shrinkage, resulting in gaping or
uneven closing of threads.
GARANCINE processes,
operations
A style of maroon to
red-brown prints
A style of maroon to red-brown
prints produced by treating the
madder root with sulphuric acid.
GARMENT garments, A shaped article of A shaped article of textile fabric,
335
Word Category Short description Description
made-ups,
assemblies
textile fabric, or other
flexible sheet
material, intended to
cover portions of the
human body.
or other flexible sheet material,
intended to cover portions of the
human body.
Garments may be grouped as:
Activewear, Blouses, Bottoms,
Bridal, Dresses, Dress shirts,
Foundations, Hosiery,
Outerwear, Pyjamas, Robes,
Skirts, Sleepwear, Sport coats
Sport shirts, Suits, Sweaters,
Swimwear, Tailored clothing,
Underwear, Uniforms,
Workwear, Tops, etc.
GARMENT BLANK garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See Knitted blank. See Knitted blank.
GARMENT
DEFECTS
defects Critical, Garment manufacturing
involves many varied operations
and a very large number of
operators. Operations, with
some exceptions, are largely
controlled by the operator and
not machine-controlled. Fabric
types and garment styles are
being increasingly diversified in
a great way. Methods,
trimmings and machinery are
being continual changed. All
these facts may contribute to
garment defects of varied type,
size and intensity.
Assessment/Assortment of
garment defects:
The garment defects are,
generally, classified for the
purpose of evaluation, into:
Critical defects in garment:
Defects, which could result in
hazardous or unsafe conditions
for indi-viduals using or
maintaining the product as well
as defects contravening the
legal regulations.
Major defects in garment:
Functional defects reducing the
usability or the expected life-
time of the product as well as
obvious visual defects reducing
the sales-value of the product or
336
Word Category Short description Description
making it un-saleable.
Minor defects in garment: Minor
visual defects
GARMENT
DEFECTS,
CLASSIFIED
defects Garment defects,
classified according
to the various
manufacturing
stages
Garment defects, classified
according to the various
manufacturing stages are:
Pattern defects in garment:
Some parts of pattern are
missing, probably because the
marker did not include the
correct number of parts.
Mixed parts, probably because
the marker is not correctly
labelled, resulting in a marriage
of wrong sized parts.
Patterns not facing in correct
direction on napped fabrics.
Not all patterns facing in same
direction (either way) on a one-
way fabric.
Patterns not aligned with
respect to the fabric grain.
Poor line definition (e.g. too
thick chalk; indistinctly printed
line, perforated lay not
powdered) leading to inaccurate
cutting.
Skimpy marking, caused by
either the marker did not use
the outside edge of the pattern;
or the pattern was moved or
swung after partial marking to
squeeze the pattern into a
smaller space for economising
the fabric. Marking back from
miniature markers also can
cause trouble unless the
miniature marker making is in
the hands of experienced
operators. Alternatively the full
size pattern may be having
worn out edges.
Generous marking, especially in
combination with skimpy
marking results in components
being sewn together with
puckering and pleating.
When the marker is too wide,
the garment parts at the edges
337
Word Category Short description Description
of the lay get cut with bits
missing.
Not enough knife clearance
freedom.
Wrong check matching, i.e.
lines across the seam are not
matching.
Wrong check boxing, i.e.
checks are not showing a full or
partial box across the seam.
Notches and drill marks omitted,
indistinct or misplaced.
Spreading defects in garment:
Not enough plies to cover
quantity of garments required.
Plies misaligned, resulting in
garment parts getting cut with
bits missing in some plies at the
edge of the spread.
Narrow fabric, causes garment
parts at the edge of the lay
getting cut with bits missing.
Incorrect tension of plies, i.e.
fabric spread too tight or too
loose. This will result in parts
not fitting in sewing, and
finished garments not meeting
size tolerances.
Not all plies facing in correct
direction (whether one way as
with nap, or one way either
way as with some check
designs). This happens when
fabric is not spread face down,
face up, or face to face as re-
quired.
Unacceptable damages in the
garment parts.
Parts not fully included owing to
splicing errors.
Spread distorted by the
attraction or repulsion of plies
caused by excessive static
electricity.
Plies are not spread accurately
one above another for cutting.
This results in mismatching
checks.
Cutting defects in garment:
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Word Category Short description Description
Inaccurate cutting. Failure to
follow the marker lines resulting
in distorted garment parts. Top
and bot-tom plies can be a
different size if the straight knife
is allowed to lean, or if a round
knife is used on too high a
spread.
Notches, which are misplaced,
too deep, too shallow, angled,
omitted, or wrong type to suit
fabric.
Drill marks, which are
misplaced, wrong drill to suit
fabric, omitted, not
perpendicular through the
spread.
Frayed edges, scorched or
fused edges, caused by a faulty
knife, not sharp enough, or
rotating at too high a speed.
Knife cut. Garment part
damaged by careless use of
knife, perhaps overrunning
cutting previous piece.
Marker incorrectly positioned on
top of spread. Garment parts
have bits missing at edge of lay.
If too tight or too loose then
garment parts are distorted.
Slits opened inaccurately or
omitted.
Sewing preparation defects in
garment:
Mixed plies resulting in shaded
garment parts, when
assembled.
Mixed size parts.
Parts missing.
Work tickets, coupon payment
tickets or progress tickets
omitted, misplaced or mixed.
Shade marking by pencil or
machine too dark, too light,
showing through, illegible or
wrong side of fab-ric.
Ink stains.
Adhesive shade marking tickets
falling off or sticking too hard,
339
Word Category Short description Description
omitted, misplaced, wrongly
numbered.
Sewn on shade marking tickets
falling off, damaging fabric,
omitted, misplaced, wrongly
numbered.
Wrong size, wrong shade,
wrong type of trimmings put in
bundle.
Bundles or boxes not stacked in
numerical order (where this is
significant).
Parts not stacked in correct
order in box, or rolled in correct
order in bundle; or rolled or
folded too tightly causing
creases.
Sewing defects in garment:
Holes, picked threads, ruptured
thread on the fabric, caused by
wrong size or type of needle,
blunt needle, needle heat or
machine feeding difficulty.
Feed damage, particularly on
thicker or sheer fabrics, or when
machine cover transverse
seams, arising from incorrect
type of teeth, excessive
pressure by foot, improper
alignment of feed and foot,
damaged throat plate,
excessive machine speed.
Skipped stitches from the hook
irregularly failing to pick up the
loop of thread from the needles
eye ow-ing to a number of
reasons.
Thread breaks, arising from too
thick a thread for the needle,
too thin a thread, needle heat,
operator working unrythmically,
too tight tensions and so on.
Broken stitches, arising from
wrong stitch type, too tight
tensions, a badly formed join in
the seam where the second line
of stitch runs over the first and
cracks it, sharp feeds, too great
a pressure and so on.
340
Word Category Short description Description
Seam grin, arising from too
loose a tension or too large a
stitch, or use of wrong stitch
type.
Seam pucker, because of
incorrect handling by the
operator, misaligned notches,
tight thread tensions and so on.
Pleated seams, an excessive
form of seam puckering, or
where operator failed to ease in
fullness evenly.
Wrong stitch density; too many
gives rise to jamming and
rupture of fabric threads; too
few to grinning or weak seams.
Uneven stitch density. Operator
causes machine to snatch and
does not allow machine to
control fabric.
Staggered stitch, from faulty
feed motion, incorrect needle
and other machine parts.
Improperly formed stitches,
caused by bad tension,
incorrectly adjusted timing, ill-
fitting machine com-ponents.
Oil spots or stains.
Seaming defects in garment:
Usually caused by errors arising
from the interaction of operator
and machine in the handling of
the garment.
Incorrect or uneven width of
inlay, arising from bad handling
by operator, incorrectly set
guide, incor-rectly adjusted
folder. In extreme cases the
burst open raw edges show,
slippage of weave threads oc-
curs, or notches are exposed.
Irregular or incorrect shape of
sewing line, (sometimes called
run offs) in top stitching, arising
from lack of or badly set guide,
not following a mark, or
incorrect handling.
Insecure back stitching,
because subsequent rows do
341
Word Category Short description Description
not cover the first row of
stitching.
Twisted seam leading to
irregular puckering or the
garment parts not hanging
correctly when worn; caused by
improper alignment of fabric
parts, mismatched notches, and
allowing one ply to creep
against another.
Mismatched checks or stripes.
Mismatched seam, where
transverse seams do not match
(e.g. inside leg seams at the
fork of trousers).
Extraneous part caught in
seam; an unrelated piece
showing through the seam.
Reversed garment part, where
part is sewn with face side
opposite from specification;
perhaps when the part cut for
one side of a garment is sewn
in the other, or when the whole
garment is assembled in-side
out.
Blind stitching showing on face
side, or not securely caught on
inside, arising from improperly
adjusted bender.
Wrong seam type or stitch type
used.
Wrong shade of thread used.
Automatic machine and
attachments defects in garment:
Ragged or frayed edges, where
knife attachments fail to cut
efficiently.
Uncut buttonholes, buttonholes
not securely caught on fabric
edge, wrong size, not securely
fastened off.
Untied stitches, where tying
stitches on automatic machines
fail to secure properly.
Uneven widths of piping, arising
from incorrect selection or
adjustment of folders.
Automatic thread trimmer failing
342
Word Category Short description Description
to cut.
Housekeeping defects in
garment:
Scissors or knife cut.
Tear.
Picked or pulled thread.
Hole, arising from faulty
machine, faulty furniture,
cigarette burn, etc.
Stains, biro ink, stamp ink, oil,
dirt, food, human, bird, animal,
rust, water and so on.
Thread ends not trimmed.
Shade marking tickets not
removed from inside a lined
garment.
Foreign bodies between lining
and outer cloth, which can be
felt or seen.
Incorrect label sewn on, or
sewn on in wrong place.
Underpressing defects in
garment:
Seams not fully pressed open,
narrow plaits showing along
part of seam on the outside of
the garment.
Uneven edges or shapes (this
may be an interaction between
sewing and pressing.
Piping rolled the wrong way on
an edge.
Permanent glaze, or a change
in the shade or surface
characteristics of the fabric.
Scorches or burns.
Creases incorrectly formed.
Misplaced creases.
Fullness not pressed away,
ineffective moulding.
Fusing defects in garment:
Interlining not securely fused,
owing to incorrect temperature
or pressure, too short a time of
fusing, or wrong choice of resin
to suit fabric. What looks secure
to the eye, or feels secure to the
hand is not nec-essarily secure
in wear, washing, or dry
343
Word Category Short description Description
cleaning.
Strike through, where the resin
is forced through the surface of
the outer fabric.
Strike back, where the resin is
forced through the back of the
interlining.
Hard handle, arising from
incorrect choice of resin backing
cloth, or improperly adjusted
fusing condi-tions of time,
temperature and pressure.
Final pressing defects in
garment:
Burned or scorched garments.
Water spots.
Gloss.
Flattened nap or surface.
Broken zips, buttons, etc.
Creases not correctly formed.
Fabric of finished garment not
smooth, wrinkle free and
showing its proper appearance.
Edges wavy and stretched, or
thick and cockled.
Garments not thoroughly dried.
Pockets not smooth.
Lining shows pleats, creases,
wrinkles, shine.
Garment not correctly mouled
either in detail or in total
silhouette.
Folding, packing and
warehousing defects in
garment:
Garment not folded to
specifications.
Garment not folded with correct
material, such as cardboard,
tissue, polythene, etc.
Pins or folds in garment
incorrectly positioned.
Garments not buttoned, zipped,
or otherwise closed (or vice-
versa).
Labels not showing where
required.
Garment not correctly
positioned in box.
344
Word Category Short description Description
Too many garments in box or
hanging wardrobe (during
delivery).
Hanging garments crushed and
distorted in warehouse.
Garment deteriorated in
warehouse through
obsolescence, owing to
improper turnover of stock,
attacks by water, mould or
animal agencies; degradation
by sunlight.
GARMENT SIZING
SYSTEM
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
In garment
construction, a
method of
designating garment
sizes.
In garment construction, a
method of designating garment
sizes. A selection of terms
related to garment sizing are:
Acromion: In anatomy, that part
of the shoulder blade located at
the end of the spine, which
articulates with the collarbone.
See also shoulder joint, below.
Ankle: In anatomy, the joint
between the foot and the lower
leg.
Ankle girth: In body
measurements, the
circumference of the leg over
the greatest prominence of the
an-kle.
Arm length: In body
measurements, with the arm
bent at 90 and the clenched fist
placed on the hip, the distance
from the shoulder joint along the
outside of the arm over the
elbow to the greatest
prominence on the outside of
the wrist.
Armhole: In garment
construction, the area of a
garment through which the arm
passes or into which a sleeve is
fitted. The armhole is not
necessarily the same shape or
location as the armscye.
(Compare Arm-scye.)
Armpit: In anatomy, the hollow
under the junction of the arm
and the shoulder.
345
Word Category Short description Description
Armscye: In garment
construction, the opening in a
garment for attachment of a
fitted sleeve. Armscye is a
tailors term for armhole. The
opening follows a line passing
over the shoulder joint, front-
and back-break points and
armpit area.
(CompareArmhole.)
Armscye circumference: In body
measurements, the body
measurement with the arm
hanging down, the distance
from the shoulder joint through
the front-break point, the armpit,
the back-break point and to the
starting point.
Back break-point: In anatomy,
the location on the back of the
body where the arm separates
from the body.
Back width: Also called Cross
back width. In body
measurements, the distance
from back break point to back
break point.
Body dimensions: In garment
construction, a body
measurement which can be
used to build a sizing sys-tem or
to select an appropriately sized
garment. See also Sizing
system.
Body measurements: In
anthropometry, body
measurements are
standardised distance between
two specified points on the
human anatomy. Body
measurements generally are
based on standardised values
from statistical studies of large
populations.
Bust: See Bust girth.
Bust girth: Also called Bust,
Full-bust girth. In body
measurements, the
circumference of the body over
346
Word Category Short description Description
the fullest part of the breasts
and parallel to the floor.
(Compare Chest girth.)
Bust point to bust point: In body
measurements, the distance
across the front from the apex
of one breast to the apex of the
other.
Calf girth: In body
measurements, the maximum
circumference around the leg
between the knee and an-kle,
parallel to the floor.
Centre back waist length: In
body measurements, the
vertical distance along the spine
from the cervcale to the waist.
Centre front waist length: In
body measurements, the
vertical distance from the neck
baseline at the cen-tre front to
the waist level.
Cervicale to bust point: In body
measurements, the distance
from the cervicale around the
base of the neck and down to
the bust point.
Cervicale to wrist: In body
measurements, with the arm
bent, the distance from the
cervicale to the shoul-der joints,
along the outside of the arm,
over the elbow to the greater
prominence on the outside of
the wrist.
Chest girth: Also called High-
bust girth. In body
measurements, the
circumference of the body over
the shoulder blades, under the
arms and across the upper
chest. (Compare Bust girth.)
Cross-back width: See Back
width.
Cross-chest width: In body
measurements, the distance
from front break point to the
back-point.
Crotch: In anatomy, the body
347
Word Category Short description Description
area adjacent to the vertex of
the included angle between the
legs.
Crotch height: See Inside-leg
length.
Crown: In anatomy, the top of
the head.
Elbow: In anatomy, the joint
which articulates between the
upper arm and the lower arm.
Elbow girth: The body
measurement with the arm
straight, the circumference of
the elbow.
Front Breakpoint: In anatomy,
the location on the front of the
body where the arm separates
from the body.
Full Bust Girth: See Bust girth.
Head girth: In body
measurements, the maximum
circumference of the head
above the ears.
Height: In body measurements,
the vertical distance from the
crown of standing subject to the
soles of the feet. For persons
unable to stand, height is
measured while they are lying
down.
High-bust girth: See Chest
girth, above.
High-hip girth: In body
measurements, the
circumference of the body at a
point approximately 7.5 cm be-
low the waist and parallel to the
floor. (Compare Hip girth.)
Hip: In anatomy, the laterally
projecting region formed by the
lateral parts of the pelvis and
the upper part of the femur
together with the flesh covering
them.
Hip girth: In body
measurements, the maximum
circumference of the body at the
level of maximum promi-nence
of the buttocks.
348
Word Category Short description Description
Inside-leg length: Also called
Crotch height. In body
measurements, the vertical
distance from the crotch to the
soles of the feet.
Knee: In anatomy, the joint
between the lower and upper
leg.
Knee girth: In body
measurements, with the leg
straight, the circumference of
the knee over the kneecap and
parallel to the floor.
Mid-neck girth: In body
measurements, the
circumference of the neck
approximately 25 mm above the
neck base. (Compare Neck
base girth.)
Mid-thigh girth: In body
measurements, the
circumference of the upper leg
between the hip and the knee.
Outside-leg length: In body
measurements, the distance
from the side waist to the soles
of the feet, follow-ing the curve
of the body.
Scye depth: In body
measurements, the distance
from the cervicale to a point
level with the armpit.
Shoulder joint: In anatomy, the
juncture of the collarbone and
the shoulder blade. The outer
end of the col-larbone or
clavicle pivots against the
acromion which in turn pivots
against the humerus or upper
arm bone in the arm. These
bones form the shoulder girdle.
See Acromion, above.
Shoulder length: In body
measurements, the distance
from the side neck base to the
armscye line at the shoulder
joint.
Shoulder slope: In body
measurements, the angle
349
Word Category Short description Description
formed when the slant of the
shoulder line deviates from the
horizontal line that originates at
the side neck base.
Sizing system: In garment
construction, a method of
designating garment sizes.
Thigh Girth: In body
measurements, the maximum
circumference of the upper leg
close to the crotch. (Compare
Mid-thigh girth.)
Total crotch length: In body
measurements, the distance
from the waist level at centre
front through the crotch to the
waist level at centre back.
Total vertical trunk length: In
body measurements, the
distance from the right shoulder
line midway be-tween the neck
base and the shoulder joint,
down the back through the
crotch and over the projection of
the right breast to the starting
point.
Underarm Length: In body
measurements, the body
measurement with the arm
down, the distance from the
armpit to the midpoint on the
inside of the wrist in line with
the greatest prominence.
Upperarm girth: In body
measurements, the maximum
circumference of the arm
usually midway between the
elbow and the shoulder joint.
Upperarm length: In body
measurements, with the arm
bent, the distance from the
shoulder joint along the outside
of the arm to the prominence of
the elbow.
Waist: In anatomy, the part of
the body at the location
between the lowest rib and hip
identified by bending the body
to the side.
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Word Category Short description Description
Waist girth: In body
measurements, the
circumference of the waist
immediately below the lowest
rib.
Wrist: In anatomy, the joint
which articulates between the
end of the lower arm and the
hand.
Wrist girth: In body
measurements, the
circumference over the
prominence of the inner and
outer forearm bones.
GARMENT TWIST defects A rotation, usually
lateral, between
different panels of a
garment resulting
from the release of
latent stresses
during laundering of
the woven or knitted
fabric forming the
garment
A rotation, usually lateral,
between different panels of a
garment resulting from the
release of latent stresses during
laundering of the woven or
knitted fabric forming the
garment. Twist may also be
referred to as Torque or
Spirality.
GARMENT-
LENGTH
KNITTING
MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A knitting machine,
most often the
circular type
A knitting machine, most often
the circular type, used for the
production of individual
garment-panels in series, rather
than for the continuous
production of fabric.
GARNETT
MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A type of carding
machine
A type of carding machine
containing rollers and cylinders
covered with saw-like metallic
teeth, used for garnetting. See
Garnetting.
GARNETTING processes,
operations
The breaking up of
yarns and fabric (soft
and hard wastes) to
a fluffy, fibrous
condition for reuse.
The breaking up of yarns and
fabric (soft and hard wastes) to
a fluffy, fibrous condition for
reuse.
GARTER BAND garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See After-welt. See After-welt.
GARTER
WEBBING
accessories An elastic narrow
fabric, sometimes
multicoloured,
characterised by
selvedges that form
An elastic narrow fabric,
sometimes multicoloured,
characterised by selvedges that
form a frill on relaxation. It may
also be a medium-strength
351
Word Category Short description Description
a frill on relaxation. elastic narrow fabric for
supporting socks or stockings.
GARTER-STITCH seams,
stitches
Simple stitch done
by hand or machine
Simple stitch done by hand or
machine, used in plain weft
knitting.
GAS processes,
operations
See Singeing. See Singeing.
GAS FADING processes,
operations
See Atmospheric
fading
See Atmospheric fading
GAS FADING
INHIBITOR
Chemicals applied to
dyed acetate fabrics
to inhibit gas fading.
Chemicals applied to dyed
acetate fabrics to inhibit gas
fading.
GASSING processes,
operations
See Singeing See Singeing
GATHERING seams,
stitches
The shortening of
fabric length by
drawing together and
holding a succession
of small folds of
material by stitching.
The shortening of fabric length
by drawing together and holding
a succession of small folds of
material by stitching. Machine
gathering or Gauging is
achieved by the use of a special
presser foot or attachment
GATING processes,
operations
See Gait 1. IN WEAVING. See Gait.
2. IN KNITTING. Also called
Gaiting. In knitting, the relative
alignment of two sets of knitting
ele-ments, e.g. needles, on
knitting machines. Two forms of
needle gaiting (rib and
interlock), are common and may
be interchangeable on the same
machine. Types of gaiting are:
(a) Interlock gaiting: The
opposed alignment of one set of
needles with the other on a
knitting ma-chine.
(b) Purl gaiting: The opposed
alignment of tricks of two needle
beds lying in the same plane,
on a machine equipped with
double-headed needles.
(c) Rib gaiting: The alternate
alignment of one set of needles
with the other on a machine
equipped with two sets of
needles arranged to knit rib
fabrics
GAUARDS fabrics See under Checks See under Checks
352
Word Category Short description Description
CHECK
GAUFR processes,
operations
An effect produced
on the surface of
fabric, by pressing in
hot calenders.
An effect produced on the
surface of fabric, by pressing in
hot calenders. These produce
designs in relief on the fabric,
e.g. honeycomb-like, waffle-like,
crimp-like, etc.
GAUGE general,
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Sometimes called
Gage. A standard
measure of distance
or dimension.
Sometimes called Gage. A
standard measure of distance
or dimension.
1. IN KNITTING: Also called
Cut.
(a) A measure of fineness
expressing the number of
needles per unit of width
(across the wales).
The linear spacing of needles in
the bed or bar of a knitting
machine. Expressed as needles
per inch, needles per 1.5 inch,
or as a number of millimetres
per 10 tricks (needle spaces).
Imperial measure is commonly
used worldwide.
(b) A term specifying a
dimension, usually thickness, of
the needles or other loop-
forming elements of a knitting
machine.
2. IN MULTI-POSITION
MACHINES. Also called Pitch.
The distance measured
horizontally between spindles,
drive drum centres, or adjacent
yarns in a multi-position
machine.
3. IN LACE MACHINES.
(a) A term specifying the comb
spacing.
(b) A term traditionally
specifying the number of
needles per inch on warp lace
machines.
4. In linking. A term specifying
the spacing of points (gauge) in
linking and point seaming ma-
chines and expressed as the
number of elements per unit of
length.
353
Word Category Short description Description
5. GAUGE IN TUFTED PILE
YARN FLOOR COVERING:
The average distance between
adjacent binding sites in the
widthwise direction.
6. GAUGE IN TUFTING
MACHINE: The average
centerline distance between the
needles.
7. IN SEWING. The distance
between needles on a sewing
machine.
8. GAUGE AS INSTRUMENT:
An instrument for measuring the
thickness of woven fabric
GAUGE, STITCH seams,
stitches
See Stitch gauge. See Stitch gauge.
GAUGING seams,
stitches
See under
Gathering.
See under Gathering.
GAUNTLET CUFF garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under Cuff. See under Cuff.
GAUZ SYLPHIDE fabrics A fabric made by
alternating strips of
gauze and satin
brocade ribbon,
A fabric made by alternating
strips of gauze and satin
brocade ribbon, used mainly for
womens clothing.
GAUZE fabrics Sheer, loosely
woven, plain-weave
fabric, made from
cotton, silk, viscose,
acetate.
Sheer, loosely woven, plain-
weave fabric, made from cotton,
silk, viscose, acetate. May be
soft and unfinished in
appearance or it may be sized
to add stiffness. Often used as
a mounting fabric. Some open
lacy gauze is made for curtains
and drapes.
GAUZE WEAVING processes,
operations
A method of
producing the
simpler types of
lightweight fabric by
leno weave.
A method of producing the
simpler types of lightweight
fabric by leno weave. The term
is commonly used as a
synonym for leno weave.
GDD general Abbreviation for
Galvano, directly
designed screen in
printing.
Abbreviation for Galvano,
directly designed screen in
printing. The screen mesh and
the pattern are grown on a
mandrel at one and the same
time.
GEAR CRIMPING processes, See under Texturing. See under Texturing.
354
Word Category Short description Description
operations
GEL DYEING processes,
operations
A continuous tow
dyeing method in
which soluble dyes
are applied to wet-
spun fibres (e.g.
acrylic for modacrylic
fibres) in the gel
state,
A continuous tow dyeing
method in which soluble dyes
are applied to wet-spun fibres
(e.g. acrylic for modacrylic
fibres) in the gel state, i.e. after
extrusion and coagulation, but
before drawing and drying.
GELATIN FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A remarkably shiny,
man-made fibre.
A remarkably shiny, man-made
fibre. It used to be spun from a
solution of gelatin and then
treated with formaldehyde,
making it insoluble in water.
Used to develop gelatin silk,
ultimately known as rayon. The
fibre, however, never attained
commercial significance.
GELATINISATION processes,
operations
The conversion of
granular size to a
viscous adhesive
liquid.
The conversion of granular size
to a viscous adhesive liquid.
GENAPPE YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A gassed worsted
yarn. See also
Gassing.
A gassed worsted yarn. See
also Gassing.
GENERIC CLASS general A grouping having
similar chemical
compositions or
specific chemical
characteristics.
A grouping having similar
chemical compositions or
specific chemical
characteristics.
GENOA TWILL fabrics A three harness twill
fabric.
A three harness twill fabric.
GENOA VELVET fabrics Elaborate velvet of
satin ground fabric
with a multicoloured
pile.
Elaborate velvet of satin ground
fabric with a multicoloured pile.
Pile is sometimes left uncut.
GENTLE WASH
CYCLE
processes,
operations
Also called Delicate
wash cycle
Also called Delicate wash cycle.
A wash cycle in which agitation
is slow and time is reduced.
GEOGRID apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A network of
integrally connected
tensile elements
A network of integrally
connected tensile elements
used to reinforce and stabilise
civil engineering structures.
GEOMEMBRANE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A barrier of very low
permeability
A barrier of very low
permeability, which may or may
not incorporate textile
reinforcement, used to control
355
Word Category Short description Description
flow of fluids.
GEORGETTE fabrics Filmy crpe fabric,
woven with very hard
(highly) twisted S
and Z yarns in both
warp and weft and
woven in a special
crpe weave.
Filmy crpe fabric, woven with
very hard (highly) twisted S
and Z yarns in both warp and
weft and woven in a special
crpe weave. This combination
gives a rather springy fabric,
with strong crpe effect and
crisp handle. A difficult fabric to
make up, but it drapes well.
Plain or printed, and made from
a variety of yarns including silk,
wool, rayon, polyester, and
nylon. Georgette does not
crease readily and polyester
georgette will hardly crease at
all. Used for blouses, dresses
(with lining), evening wear,
over-dresses with opaque fabric
beneath. It can be bonded to
acetate locknit to improve the
stability and make the fabric
easier to use
GEOTEXTILES fabrics Any permeable
textile materials used
for filtration,
drainage, separation,
reinforcement and
stabilisation
purposes as an
integral part of civil
engineering
structures on earth,
rock or other
constructional
materials.
Any permeable textile materials
used for filtration, drainage,
separation, reinforcement and
stabilisation purposes as an
integral part of civil engineering
structures on earth, rock or
other constructional materials.
GERM
RESISTANT
fabrics Fabrics treated with
compounds to
protect the wearer
against fungi and
germs.
Fabrics treated with compounds
to protect the wearer against
fungi and germs.
GERMICIDAL
AGENT
See Bacteriostat See Bacteriostat
GIG apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A finishing machine
containing teasels
and used for raising
a nap on a fabric.
A finishing machine containing
teasels and used for raising a
nap on a fabric.
GIGGING processes, A fabric finishing A fabric finishing operation in
356
Word Category Short description Description
operations operation in which
surface fibres are
raised to produce a
nap or cover on the
cloth.
which surface fibres are raised
to produce a nap or cover on
the cloth. It is performed on
cloth with teasels, which are the
dried flower heads of a thistle
plant, or with metallic substitute.
The cloth is brought in to
contact with teasels which cover
the surface of a rotating
cylinder.
GILDING processes,
operations
See Oxidised oil
staining.
See Oxidised oil staining.
GILLING processes,
operations
See Pin drafting See Pin drafting
GIMP accessories A core helically
wrapped by one or
more threads,
resulting in a stiff
cord.
1. A core helically wrapped by
one or more threads, resulting
in a stiff cord.
2. An upholstery trimming
usually made wholly or partly
from gimp as defined above.
3. A special thread used to
support and raise the
buttonhole stitching. Also used
for embroidery
GIMP YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A type of fancy yarn. A type of fancy yarn. A
compound yarn comprising a
twisted core with an effect yarn
wrapped around it so as to
produce wavy projections on its
surface. Generally speaking,
gimp yarns display fairly regular
semi-circular projections and
loop yarns have well-formed
circular loops.
GIN apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A machine used for
separating the cotton
fibre from the seed.
A machine used for separating
the cotton fibre from the seed.
The fibres are drawn through
openings which are too small
for seed to pass through
GIN CUT COTTON defects Cotton that has been
damaged in ginning
Cotton that has been damaged
in ginning to the extent that its
value is reduced.
GINGHAM fabrics Plain weave fabric
made with dyed
yarns balanced in
strength, in stripes
and checks in a wide
Plain weave fabric made with
dyed yarns balanced in
strength, in stripes and checks
in a wide variety of types and
qualities. White is always used
357
Word Category Short description Description
variety of types and
qualities.
with a colour. Usually cotton or
polyester/cotton. It is a crisp
and firm fabric, very
hardwearing. Has excellent
washing properties because
very fast dyes are normally
employed. Used for blouses,
shirts, dresses, childrens
clothes, table clothes, napkins,
and curtains. Very lightweight
gingham type fabrics are known
as Zephyrs.
GINNED LINT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Cotton fibres that
have been separated
from their seeds by
ginning
Cotton fibres that have been
separated from their seeds by
ginning but not subjected to any
further processing after ginning.
GINNING processes,
operations
The mechanical
process by which
cotton fibres are
separated from their
seeds
The mechanical process by
which cotton fibres are
separated from their seeds,
quickly and efficiently to make
the fibres available for textile
use.
GIVE-WAY apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A weak link inserted
in a mechanism for
safety reasons.
A weak link inserted in a
mechanism for safety reasons.
GIVRENE fabrics Silk, acetate or
polyester fabric very
similar in
appearance to
Grosgrain.
Silk, acetate or polyester fabric
very similar in appearance to
Grosgrain. Made from a fairly
loosely folded cotton weft and
twist variations give a shimmer
effect to the fabric because the
ribs are not uniformly round and
even. See Grosgrain.
GLAC BINDING fabrics See under Binding See under Binding
GLAC EFFECT fabrics See Changeable
effect.
See Changeable effect.
GLAC LEATHER fabrics Goatskin; soft and
glossy.
Goatskin; soft and glossy. Used
mainly for shoes.
GLASS FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured fibre
in which the fibre-
forming substance is
glass.
A manufactured fibre in which
the fibre-forming substance is
glass.
Extremely fine filaments are
spun from ordinary glass in its
molten state. The extreme
fineness of the filament gives
the material necessary flexibility
for making it into yarns and
358
Word Category Short description Description
fabrics. Glass fibres are very
strong, however, it has
practically no stretch. Fabrics
lack resistance to abrasion and
flexing; the filaments break and
the fabric becomes fibrous as
the broken filament-ends stick
out. Hence, glass is unsuitable
for clothing, but its complete
non-flammability, chemical
resistance, ease of washing
because of its complete lack of
absorbency, and as they do not
deteriorate with age have made
it useful for curtain fabrics.
Glass melts only at extremly
high temperatures.
GLASS MINERAL
WOOL
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Glass wool.. See Glass wool.
GLASS WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A variety of glass
fibre.
Also called glass mineral wool.
A variety of glass fibre. It is
incombustible. Principally used
in heat and cold insulations and
acoustical applications.
GLASS-CLOTH fabrics Plain-weave fabric
made from twisted
linen yarns, often
woven in stripes or
checks, but
sometimes printed.
Plain-weave fabric made from
twisted linen yarns, often woven
in stripes or checks, but
sometimes printed. The medium
weight fabric is made without
any surface fuzz and is very
durable. Used to make tea
towels for drying glass and
china. Cotton glass cloth is
cheaper, but is not quite so
effective for drying up as it
becomes damp sooner, and
does not wear as long as linen.
GLASS-RUBBER
TRANSITION
TEMPERATURE
(Tg)
general Temperature zone
over which there is a
reversible physical
change
Temperature zone over which
there is a reversible physical
change from a viscous or
rubbery state to a brittle glassy
state.
GLAUBERS SALT A dyeing assistant
composed of
hydrated sodium
sulphate
A dyeing assistant composed of
hydrated sodium sulphate
GLAZE fabrics The finish such as The finish such as shine, lustre,
359
Word Category Short description Description
shine, lustre, polish,
etc., evident on
some fabrics
polish, etc., evident on some
fabrics. Process utilises friction
calendering, and ingredients
used depend on type of fabric.
On cotton it is usually produced
by pressure rolls. A durable
glaze finish will withstand
several washings. Also
stabilises the weave.
GLAZED CHINTZ fabrics Chintz fabric, which
has been given a
resin finish
Chintz fabric, which has been
given a resin finish, which is
more permanent and will not
wash out. See also Chintz
GLAZED THREAD fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A thread which has
been treated for
lustre and
smoothness
A thread which has been
treated for lustre and
smoothness with a sizing
applied in the finishing process.
GLAZING processes,
operations
Imparting a smooth,
glossy, plane surface
to a fabric, by using
heat, heavy
pressure, or friction.
Imparting a smooth, glossy,
plane surface to a fabric, by
using heat, heavy pressure, or
friction. Cotton fabrics such as
chintz or tarlatan may be
treated with chemicals and run
through hot friction rollers to
give them a smooth high polish.
Durable finish can be produced
by proper selection of chemicals
and procedures.
GLEN URQUHART
CHECK
fabrics See under Checks. See under Checks.
GLEN URQUHART
PLAID
fabrics Name comes from a
Scottish clan. This
fabric is also
sometimes called
Overplaid, because
the blocks of check
weave are arranged
at right angles, and
then there is a larger
outline check effect
over this, often in
another colour.
Name comes from a Scottish
clan. This fabric is also
sometimes called Overplaid,
because the blocks of check
weave are arranged at right
angles, and then there is a
larger outline check effect over
this, often in another colour.
May be wool or worsted and is
made in various weights, from
light suiting to overcoating. An
ornate plaid, used for golfing
clothes, cloaks, mens sporting
hats and overcoats. See also
Glen urquhart check under
Checks
GLENCARRY fabrics,
garments,
An English tweed
cloth made from
1. FABRIC. An English tweed
cloth made from woollen yarns
360
Word Category Short description Description
made-ups,
assemblies
woollen yarns of the
hit or miss type
of the hit or miss type and
contains some so-called waste
stock and low quality fibres.
2. GARMENT. The term is also
used to describe a cape-
overcoat and sometimes a
Scotch cap
GLENSHEE fabrics Plain-weave fabric
made from
mercerised cotton or
linen, in a wide
variety of weights
and used for all
types of embroidery.
Plain-weave fabric made from
mercerised cotton or linen, in a
wide variety of weights and
used for all types of embroidery.
GLENSHEE
CRASH
fabrics Rough, uneven
plain-weave fabric of
equal quantities of
cotton and linen
fibre.
Rough, uneven plain-weave
fabric of equal quantities of
cotton and linen fibre. Used
mainly for curtains and loose
covers and as a base for
embroidery.
GLIDING processes,
operations
See under Oxidised
oil staining
See under Oxidised oil staining
GLISSADE fabrics Closely woven satin-
weave cotton fabric
that is polished in
finishing.
Closely woven satin-weave
cotton fabric that is polished in
finishing. Is made in plain
colours, an uninteresting fabric
used only where cotton lining is
needed.
GLORIA fabrics Strong, firm, plain
weave cotton, silk or
nylon fabric.
Strong, firm, plain weave cotton,
silk or nylon fabric. Is very
closely woven and very
lightweight, in plain, twill or satin
weave. Used for covering
umbrellas as when stretched
taut, it is water repellent.
GLORIA SUEDE fabrics Firm heavy suede
fabric for jackets and
coats.
Firm heavy suede fabric for
jackets and coats.
GLOSS general See Specular gloss. See Specular gloss.
GLOVE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A covering for the
hand, often
extending part way
up the arm. See also
Dress glove.
A covering for the hand, often
extending part way up the arm.
See also Dress glove.
GLOVE SILK fabrics Fine warp-knit silk
made in basic
colours and used
Fine warp-knit silk made in
basic colours and used mainly
for glove lining, although it was
361
Word Category Short description Description
mainly for glove
lining
once also used for lingerie
GLOW general Visible flameless
combustion of the
solid phase of a
material.
Visible flameless combustion of
the solid phase of a material.
See Afterglow and
Smouldering.
GLOWING
COMBUSTION
processes,
operations
Combustion of a
material in the solid
phase without flame
but with emission of
light from the
combustion zone
Combustion of a material in the
solid phase without flame but
with emission of light from the
combustion zone
GLUED SEAM seams,
stitches
A seam formed
seam by an
adhesive.
A seam formed seam by an
adhesive.
GO-THROUGH
MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See under Lace
machines.
See under Lace machines.
GODET garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A triangular insert of
material used in
dressmaking and
glove making.
A triangular insert of material
used in dressmaking and glove
making.
GOFFER processes,
operations
A process by which
fabrics are given a
fluted, crimped,
tucked, or raised-
relief appearance by
means of heat and
pressure.
A process by which fabrics are
given a fluted, crimped, tucked,
or raised-relief appearance by
means of heat and pressure.
Used on yarn or fabric.
GOLD THREAD fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A core yarn formed
by twisting or
spiralling thin
filaments of gold on
a central yarn of silk,
cotton, man-made
fibres, etc.
A core yarn formed by twisting
or spiralling thin filaments of
gold on a central yarn of silk,
cotton, man-made fibres, etc.
Pure gold thread consists of a
fine silver wire covered with a
gold film and Lyons gold
thread is copper wire covered
with a gold film. Originally gold
thread was gold wire.
GOLD TISSUE fabrics Very soft and
luxurious,
transparent metal
cloth consisting of
metal warp in gold
colour and silk or
synthetic weft
Very soft and luxurious,
transparent metal cloth
consisting of metal warp in gold
colour and silk or synthetic weft.
Used mainly for evening
dresses, saris, etc.
GOOD COLOUR fibers, An intermediate An intermediate shade of
362
Word Category Short description Description
COTTON filaments,
yarns
shade of cotton,
between white and
creamy
cotton, between white and
creamy. If too creamy, the term
buttery used; if too white, the
term blue cotton applies.
GOODS RATIO processes,
operations
See Liquor: goods
ratio.
See Liquor: goods ratio.
GORE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A wedge-shaped
piece of cloth
inserted into a
garment
A wedge-shaped piece of cloth
inserted into a garment to
obtain width at a specific place.
GORED SKIRT garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A skirt with a panel
inserted
A skirt with a panel inserted
GORGE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The neck run of the
forepart to which the
collar is joined.
The neck run of the forepart to
which the collar is joined.
GORGE SEAM seams,
stitches
The seam joining the
forepart to the collar.
The seam joining the forepart to
the collar.
GOSSAMER fabrics Very soft fine silk
gauze used for veils.
Very soft fine silk gauze used
for veils.
GOSSYPIUM fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The generic name of
the cotton plant.
The generic name of the cotton
plant.
GOUT defects Fabric defect Fabric defect. Foreign matter
woven into a fabric by accident,
usually lint or waste, caused by
fly and waste dropping into the
loom during weaving, or being
caught in yarns during spinning.
See also Slug
GRAB TEST general A method of
determining the
tensile strength of a
fabric.
A method of determining the
tensile strength of a fabric.
GRADE general IN WARP
KNITTING, a term
used to indicate the
defect index
evaluation of fabric
determined by the
number of defects
per unit
1. IN WARP KNITTING, a term
used to indicate the defect
index evaluation of fabric
determined by the number of
defects per unit, for example
per pound, per linear yard, or
per square yard.
2. IN WOOL AND MOHAIR, a
numerical designation used in
classifying wool and mohair in
their raw, semi-processed, and
processed forms based on
average fibre diameter and
363
Word Category Short description Description
variation of fibre diame-ter.
GRADING processes,
operations
In textile testing, the
symbol for any step
of a multistep
standard reference
scale for a quality
characteristic.
In textile testing, the symbol for
any step of a multistep standard
reference scale for a quality
characteristic. The grade is
assigned to test specimens
exhibiting a degree of the
quality comparable to that step
of the standard. Numerical
grades assigned to different
specimens from a sample or by
different observers are
commonly averaged.
Terminology for grading
process: Five grades, usually
with intermediate decimal half
grades are provided for most
subjectively graded
characteristics ranging from
Grade 5, High, to Grade 1, Low.
A grade lower than 1 is seldom
of interest, but it may be
designated Grade 0
GRADUATED
CHECKS
fabrics A pattern for
checked in which the
component stripes
are graduated in size
from small to large.
A pattern for checked in which
the component stripes are
graduated in size from small to
large.
GRAIN fabrics Grain of the fabric is
the relationship of its
structural elements
to vertical and
horizontal lines.
Grain of the fabric is the
relationship of its structural
elements to vertical and
horizontal lines. Grain is easily
appreciated and illustrated by
the example of a woven fabric
where in ideal conditions warp
direction represents the vertical
line and weft direction
represents the horizontal. Warp
and weft interlace at 90 so that
in a correctly made and finished
woven fabric grain and structure
are square with each other.
Deliberate off grain cutting is
sometimes essential particularly
in woven fabrics in order to
obtain necessary fabric
movement for shaping or
styling. Conversely, the taping
364
Word Category Short description Description
or otherwise stabilising of
certain garment seams is
necessary to prevent movement
or stretching. This is often
necessary where perhaps a
woven fabric has been cut on
the bias to obtain movement or
shape in one part but another
part may need to be kept fairly
rigid, or in a straight seam in a
knitted fabric where the natural
movement of the fabric is too
great for the necessary rigidity
of the garment.
GRAIN LEATHER fabrics Term for all leather
that has had a finish
applied to the right
side.
Term for all leather that has had
a finish applied to the right side.
Most leather skins available for
sewing are referred to as grain
leathers
GRAIN OF
WHEAT EFFECT
accessories See under
Coronation gimp.
See under Coronation gimp.
GRAINY WEAVE fabrics A class of irregular,
broken weaves, e.g.
Granite, Oatmeal.
A class of irregular, broken
weaves, e.g. Granite, Oatmeal.
This effect is used at times in
fabrics of man-made fibres
where warp and weft have
different dyeing characteristics.
GRANADA fabrics Old term meaning
grained; a fine
worsted fabric with a
face finish on the
right side.
Old term meaning grained; a
fine worsted fabric with a face
finish on the right side. Weave
has a broken appearance and
normally in black. Used for
womens coats, mens
lightweight overcoats.
GRANDRELLE
FABRIC
fabrics A term used for a
waterproof fabric
A term used for a waterproof
fabric made by sealing together
with a rubber solution two
cotton fab-rics of the same but
different designs.
GRANDRELLE
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A two-ply yarn
composed of singles
of different colour or
contrasting lustre.
A two-ply yarn composed of
singles of different colour or
contrasting lustre.
GRANITE fabrics A weave having a
satin base
A weave having a satin base or
other regular plan with adjoining
ends lifted in regular order to
give small broken effects.
365
Word Category Short description Description
They are largely used as
ground weaves for jacquard
designs
GRANNIE CLOTH fabrics See Mummy cloth. See Mummy cloth.
GRASS
BLEACHING
processes,
operations
The bleaching of
cotton or linen
The bleaching of cotton or linen
by spreading it on the grass and
exposing it to light and air. This
is a slower process than
chemical bleaching. See
Bleaching.
GRASS CLOTH fabrics A broad
classification for
lustrous, plain weave
fabrics made of
ramie, flax, hemp,
nettle fibre, etc.
A broad classification for
lustrous, plain weave fabrics
made of ramie, flax, hemp,
nettle fibre, etc. It generally is
loosely woven on handlooms.
Used for sportswear, blouses,
luncheon sets, tablecloths, etc.
GRASS LINEN fabrics See China-grass See China-grass
GRASSING processes,
operations
See Crofting. See Crofting.
GRAVER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Burin. See Burin.
GRAVURE
PRINTING
processes,
operations
See Roller printing
and Intanglio
See Roller printing and Intanglio
GRAY GOODS fabrics See preferred term,
Greige goods.
See preferred term, Greige
goods.
GRDUATED
CHECKS
fabrics A pattern for
checked in which the
component stripes
are graduated in size
from small to large.
A pattern for checked in which
the component stripes are
graduated in size from small to
large.
GREASE DYEING processes,
operations
A process in dyeing
serges and cotton
warp woollen cloths
without scouring
them first.
.
A process in dyeing serges and
cotton warp woollen cloths
without scouring them first.
.
GREASE WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Wool, taken from the
living sheep
Wool, taken from the living
sheep and which has not been
commercially scoured.
GRECIAN
ALHAMBRA
fabrics A figured quilting
fabric
A figured quilting fabric in which
Grecian weaves are largely
used
GRECIAN WEAVE fabrics A weave based on
the counter-change
A weave based on the counter-
change principle and having
366
Word Category Short description Description
principle floats of warp and weft that
produce either a rough surface
or a cellular effect on both sides
of the fabric.
Modifications of the basic
Grecian weave are also made,
in some of which the warp and
weft floats appear on the face
side of the fabric only.
GREEN COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Immature cotton
which is unusually
damp, because it
has been picked
before the boll is
ripe.
Immature cotton which is
unusually damp, because it has
been picked before the boll is
ripe.
GREEN FLAX fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Natural
flax.
Also called Natural flax.
Scutched flax produced from
deseeded straw without any
intermediate treatment such as
retting.
GREEN LINEN fabrics A linen cloth woven
of unbleached, or
green, yarn.
A linen cloth woven of
unbleached, or green, yarn.
GREIGE GOODS fabrics Textile fabrics, as
they leave the loom
or knitting-machine.
Fabrics that have
received no
bleaching, dyeing or
finishing treatment
Also called Grey goods. Textile
fabrics, as they leave the loom
or knitting-machine. Fabrics that
have received no bleaching,
dyeing or finishing treatment
GREIGE STATE fibers,
filaments,
yarns, fabrics
Unfinished, natural
fibre, yarn or fabric
Unfinished, natural fibre, yarn or
fabric. Most commonly used in
conjunction with cotton.
GREIGE THREAD fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Undyed or
unfinished thread,
usually sewing
thread,
Undyed or unfinished thread,
usually sewing thread, in the
state following final plying or
equivalent step in processing
sequence, such as extruding, or
braiding
GREIGE YIELD fabrics The number of
finished square
yards per pound
(square metres per
kilogram) of greige
fabric.
The number of finished square
yards per pound (square metres
per kilogram) of greige fabric.
GRENADINE fabrics,
fibers,
a loosely woven
gauze-type fabric.
1. Description was once used to
describe an outer garment,
367
Word Category Short description Description
filaments,
yarns
such as a cloak, but it now
refers to a loosely woven
gauze-type fabric. May be
cotton, polyester, nylon or
mixtures, including acrylic fi-bre.
May also occasionally be
produced as a filmy dress or
blouse fabric. A springy net-like
fabric.
2. Term applies also to a yarn
composed of more than one
strand, with the twist in the plied
yarn in the opposite direction
from the twist in the individual
components. Fibre may be silk,
cotton or syn-thetic. The yarn is
woven into a variety of fabrics of
varying weights, including voile,
organdie and satin. Closely
woven reversible twill. The word
Grenadine was once used to
describe a hard-wearing close
silk fabric with a dull surface
created by the highly twisted
yarns.
GRENFELL
CLOTH
fabrics Closely woven
reversible twill,
mainly used for
raincoats, because
the close twill weave
causes it to be
water-repellent.
Closely woven reversible twill,
mainly used for raincoats,
because the close twill weave
causes it to be water-repellent.
The fibres used may be worsted
or polyester or blends. Similar
to Gaberdine in appearance.
GREX fibers,
filaments,
yarns
An obsolete, direct
numbering system
for expressing linear
density, equal to the
mass in grams per
10,000 m of yarn,
fibre, filament or
other textile strand.
An obsolete, direct numbering
system for expressing linear
density, equal to the mass in
grams per 10,000 m of yarn,
fibre, filament or other textile
strand. See also Linear density.
GREY COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Stained
cotton.
See under Stained cotton.
GREY FELT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A blend of white
fibres with naturally
coloured or dyed
fibres
A blend of white fibres with
naturally coloured or dyed
fibres, or both, that has an
overall grey appearance
GREY GOODS fabrics See preferred term, See preferred term, Greige
368
Word Category Short description Description
Greige goods. goods.
GREY SCALE general A scale consisting of
pairs of standard
grey chips
A scale consisting of pairs of
standard grey chips
representing progressive
differences in colour or contrast
corresponding to numerical
colourfastness grades.
GREY SOURING processes,
operations
A step in the process
of bleaching of
cotton.
A step in the process of
bleaching of cotton. The cotton
is treated with a
GREY WIDTH fabrics The width of the
fabric as it comes
from the loom
The width of the fabric as it
comes from the loom, before it
goes through any of the
finishing operations.
GREYING processes,
operations
Term used describe
the dingy
appearance of a
fabric that occurs in
dry cleaning.
Term used describe the dingy
appearance of a fabric that
occurs in dry cleaning. This
results from the uniform
depositing of soluble or
insoluble soils on the surface of
all the fibres of the fabric. Poor
solvent colour, i.e. a dirty
solvent can cause greying.
GRIFFE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In jacquard
mechanism, the
knife assembly
In jacquard mechanism, the
knife assembly that operates to
lift the hooks and harness in the
process of forming a shed.
GRIN seams,
stitches
In sewn seams, to
stress a sewn seam
so that the individual
stitches can be seen
In sewn seams, to stress a
sewn seam so that the
individual stitches can be seen
GRINDING, RAG processes,
operations
See Pulling, rag. See Pulling, rag.
GRINNING seams,
stitches
The gap that forms,
when two
components stitched
together are pulled
apart laterally.
The gap that forms, when two
components stitched together
are pulled apart laterally. The
gap will be larger when the
stitch is slacker, i.e. the run-in
ratio of the threads is larger.
GRINNING
THROUGH
defects A defect in a
compound structure,
e.g. a double cloth in
which one fabric can
be seen through the
other, as a result of
bad cover.
A defect in a compound
structure, e.g. a double cloth in
which one fabric can be seen
through the other, as a result of
bad cover. The term can be
applied to compound woven
and knitted structures including
pile fabrics
369
Word Category Short description Description
GRINNY CLOTH fabrics Also called Hungry
cloth.
Also called Hungry cloth. A
cloth with an unsatisfactory
cover. It is sometimes said to be
grinning.
GRIPPER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Gripper-shuttle. See Gripper-shuttle.
GRIPPER LOOM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A loom, which uses
one or more
grippers.
A loom, which uses one or more
grippers. See also Projectile
loom
GRIPPER TAPE accessories Also called Gripper
web
Also called Gripper web. A
narrow fabric, woven or knitted,
having one or more raised
stripes in the warp direction,
formed of a high-friction
material. If is used on the inside
of waistbands for skirts and
trousers to keep a blouse or
shirt in place.
GRIPPER-
SHUTTLE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A device, which grips
one end of a weft
yarn and tows it
through the warp
shed.
A device, which grips one end
of a weft yarn and tows it
through the warp shed. See
also Projectile.
GRIST fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Count of yarn See Count of yarn
GROS fabrics A term used to
describe thick heavy
fabrics.
A term used to describe thick
heavy fabrics. Often applied to
a variety of cross-ribbed fabrics.
GROS DE
LONDRES
fabrics Cross-ribbed fabric
with alternating
heavy and fine ribs,
or ribs of different
colours.
Cross-ribbed fabric with
alternating heavy and fine ribs,
or ribs of different colours.
Made in plain weave and plain-
weave variations. A glossy
finish is applied and it is fairly
stiff to handle. The fibres used
are viscose, acetate, and
triacetate, polyester or silk.
Used for millinery and also for
evening dresses
GROSGRAIN fabrics Plain weave fine
fabric with prominent
rounded ribs.
Plain weave fine fabric with
prominent rounded ribs. The
ribs are produced by weaving a
plain weave with a very closely
set warp of fine yarns and a
more open-set weft in a thicker
370
Word Category Short description Description
yarn. This is an exaggeration of
the rib principle as illustrated
under Poplin. Cords are heavier
than those in Poplin, and
rounder than those in Faille,
and it is a fairly stiff fabric, made
only in plain colours. Grosgrain
is originally a silk fabric and
very expensive because it is a
rather heavy fabric. Cheaper
types are made using filament
rayon or acetate for the warp
and a thick cotton or staple
rayon weft. The weft is entirely
hidden by the close-set warp
and lies straight. Grosgrain is
used for evening coats and for
dresses and for facings. Now
made also in silk, worsted,
cotton, or viscose, acetate, ny-
lon.
Used for formal clothes, such as
ceremonial gowns and church
vestments, but also (in synthetic
fi-bres) for ribbons. Grosgrain
fabrics are hardwearing due to
the weave, but clothes made
from it rarely receive hard wear.
See also Givrene
GROUND fabrics The basic part of the
fabric surrounding
the figures or
designs.
The basic part of the fabric
surrounding the figures or
designs. In a pile fabric, it
consists of the warp and the
weft yarns, which support the
pile. In lace, the basic structure
of net, known as foundation net,
by which, the objects are joined.
GROUND
THREAD
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The single or ply
core yarn, which
serves as the center
(core) around which
novelty or fancy
yarns are twisted
The single or ply core yarn,
which serves as the center
(core) around which novelty or
fancy yarns are twisted
GROUND WARP fabrics A warp, which forms
the body of the cloth
in pile fabrics, by
interlacing with the
weft.
A warp, which forms the body of
the cloth in pile fabrics, by
interlacing with the weft.
371
Word Category Short description Description
GROUNDNUT
PROTEIN FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibre made from
groundnut.
Fibre made from groundnut.
They have soft, wool-like
handle, except that they do not
have the scaly surface of wool
fibres. Used as a diluent fibre,
which provide wool-like
characteristics at low cost.
GROUP FLOAT defects Weaving defect. Weaving defect. Failure of
several warps or wefts to
interlace. Therefore these yarns
float over then
GROWN-ON garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The formation of a
facing by folding
back the fabric edge.
The formation of a facing by
folding back the fabric edge.
GROWN-ON
WAISTBAND
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under
Waistband.
See under Waistband.
GROWTH general The dimensional
change resulting in
an increase in the
length or width of a
specimen.
The dimensional change
resulting in an increase in the
length or width of a specimen.
GUANACO fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Hair from a small,
wild deer-like animal,
with big brown eyes,
from the llama group
of animals found in
the Andes.
Hair from a small, wild deer-like
animal, with big brown eyes,
from the llama group of animals
found in the Andes. The hair of
fifteen day old animals was
once used for spinning, but the
Guanaco is now a protected
species.
GUARDS CHECK fabrics See under Checks See under Checks
GUIDE HAIRS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibres, which project
beyond the under-
coat of some
mammals.
Fibres, which project beyond
the under-coat of some
mammals. They are usually
coarser than under-coat fibres
GUIPURE LACE
EMBROIDERY
fabrics It is an openwork
lace composed of
thick, heavy
embroidered
patterns, often with
quite large motifs
Although now entirely made by
machine, this was once a hand-
made Italian type of lace. It is
an openwork lace composed of
thick, heavy embroidered
patterns, often with quite large
motifs. Ground fabric is made
from nylon acetate or
sometimes cotton; the thick
embroidery is worked onto the
ground fabric and then the
ground fabric is removed by
372
Word Category Short description Description
chemical dissolving or other
means that will not affect the
embroidery
GUM fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Sericin. See Sericin.
GUM ARABIC A colloidal substance
obtained from
several species of
Acacia plant
A colloidal substance obtained
from several species of Acacia
plant. It is used as a size,
adhesive and thickener in
finishing operations and textile
printing
GUM WASTE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Waste comprising all
broken silk threads
Waste comprising all broken silk
threads that have been
discarded during reeling, or at
the inspection of skeins, and
that have not undergone any
further processing
GUNCLUB CHECK fabrics Distinctive, sporty-
looking check wool
fabric.
Distinctive, sporty-looking check
wool fabric. Checks are usually
woven in greens, browns and
sometimes blue, sometimes
with an overcheck, i.e. a large
check over a smaller one. Used
mainly for natty sportswear. See
also Checks.
GUNNY fabrics See Bagging fabric. See Bagging fabric.
GUT THREAD fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Stuffer yarn See Stuffer yarn
GYPSUM A chemical used to
size cotton goods; it
is hydrous sulphate
of calcium
A chemical used to size cotton
goods; it is hydrous sulphate of
calcium
GYPSY CLOTH fabrics See Flannelette. See Flannelette.

H

Word Category Short description Description
HABIT fabrics,
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Good quality woollen,
medium-weight suiting
material with a dress
face finish.
1. FABRIC. Good quality
woollen, medium-weight
suiting material with a
dress face finish. Usually
in dark colours and used
for suits and winter-
373
Word Category Short description Description
weight dresses. Term
applied widely to a range
of costume fabrics.
2. GARMENT.
(a) A riding costume worn
by ladies.
(b) A sleeved tunic worn
by those in holy orders.
(c) The dress
characteristic of a
particular rank,
profession or function
(d) Body apparel or attire
HABUTAI fabrics Term means soft and
light
1. Term means soft and
light - and was originally
used for J apanese waste
silk. Fabric is now made
in many Far Eastern
countries on power looms
in plain or twill weave; is
heavier than traditional
Chinese silk, and is
usually in natural cru
colour. Used for mens
jackets, womens
shirtwaisters and skirts.
2. There is a cheap Silk
habutai, which is
excellent as a soft,
lightweight lining fabric
for evening dresses,
wedding-dresses, etc.,
especially for those who
find synthetic lining
uncomfortable to wear.
Not to be confused with
the thicker fabric.
HACKLING processes,
operations
A combing process in
the preparation of flax
A combing process in the
preparation of flax,
designed to separate and
straighten the fibres and
remove tow.
HAIR fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Natural animal fibre
other than sheeps
wool or silk.
Natural animal fibre other
than sheeps wool or silk.
Certain animals other
than sheep produce
fibres, with special
properties, used in
374
Word Category Short description Description
clothing fabrics, which
are called hairs to
distinguish them from
wool. In general these
specialty hairs are more
expensive than wool,
particularly in their better
qualities, and they are
available in much smaller
quantities than wool.
HAIR CANVAS fabrics Woven interfacing
material in various
weights
Woven interfacing
material in various
weights. Coarse goat hair
combined with wool,
cotton or rayon is used in
the filling. Used in coats
and jackets made from
suitings and coatings.
There are several types
of hair canvases to
choose from, according
to the weight of the fabric
being used,
1. Cotton canvas, fairly
stiff, 45 % cotton with
hair.
2. Softer canvas made
from wool, viscose and
hair. More expensive.
Better quality and a good
choice for expensive
coatings and suitings.
3. Canvas made from a
heavier yarn and hair, a
good choice for coat-
weight fabrics.
4. Gray canvas with a
thin white stripe. More
expensive than those
above. Made from
viscose, goat hair and
polyester yarn. Available
in different weights.
5. Stiff gray canvas of
leno weave construction,
made of cotton, viscose
and goat hair. Used with
coatings.
HAIR CLOTH fabrics A fabric in which the 1. A fabric in which the
375
Word Category Short description Description
weft consists of single
fibres of horsehair
weft consists of single
fibres of horsehair,
obtained from tails and
manes and woven on a
special loom which is
capable of inserting picks
of the discontinuous
fibres. The horse hair
may be dyed. The woven
structure, which usually
has a cotton warp, varies
according to the end-use,
e.g. interlinings, finishing
fabrics, sieve and press
cloths.
2. A fabric made of
cotton, polyester, linen or
other fibres with which
horsehair has been
mixed to take it strong
and inflexible. Used in
upholstery and also as a
chest canvas in tailoring.
See also Woven
interfacings.
HAIR NETS fabrics A net or mesh made of
real hair, silk or nylon
A net or mesh made of
real hair, silk or nylon.
Used as head covering.
HAIRCORD fabrics A plain-woven cotton
fabric
A plain-woven cotton
fabric; characterized by
fine rib lines in the warp
direction created by
alternate coarse and fine
ends, or by having two
(or more) ends weaving
as one alternately with a
single end. These fabrics
are produced piece dyed
colours and in prints.
HAIRCORD CARPET garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A cord carpet in which
the pile is 100% hair.
A cord carpet in which
the pile is 100% hair.
HAIRLINE STRIPE fabrics A fine hair-like narrow
striped colour effect,
A fine hair-like narrow
striped colour effect,
produced either by
weaving a single yarn of
contrasting colour, or by
printing either lengthways
376
Word Category Short description Description
(warp hairline) or
crosswise (weft hairline)
in a fabric.
HAIRWEIGHT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The mass per unit
length of a fibre
The mass per unit length
of a fibre, usually cotton,
expressed in:
It is usually expressed by
H. This is numerically
equivalent to millitex. See
also Standard hairweight.
HAIRY defects See Fuzzing. See Fuzzing.
HALCHING processes,
operations
The operation of
looping the external
yarn
1. The operation of
looping the external yarn
and around a cop or
bobbin to facilitate
retrieval.
2. See under Leasing.
HALF BLOOD fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Blood. See Blood.
HALF CARDIGAN RIB fabrics A 1x1 rib fabric A 1x1 rib fabric in which
the wales on one side
consist wholly of knitted
loops and the wales on
the opposite side consist
of a held loop and a tuck
loop.
HALF CLOTH fabrics A term sometimes
used to describe a
fabric made of wool
and cotton.
A term sometimes used
to describe a fabric made
of wool and cotton.
HALF DAMASK fabrics A damask fabric A damask fabric made
with silk warp and cotton
or wool weft.
HALF RESIST processes,
operations
A partial resist printing. A partial resist printing.
The shade is a weaker
variation of the shade
produced in sections
having no resist
treatment
HALF-BLEACH
FINISH
fabrics A linen fabric which is
partially bleached
A linen fabric which is
partially bleached, as
distinguished from Full
bleach finish.
HALF-DROP processes,
operations
A kind of repeat
printing in which the
print design unit is
A kind of repeat printing
in which the print design
unit is repeated at a given
377
Word Category Short description Description
repeated at a given
distance
distance, not directly
horizontal but stepped
down half its vertical
dimension. Also known,
in the textile industry, as
Step-half.
HALF-GAUGING processes,
operations
Removing alternate
needles from a knitting
machine either
physically or by
selection
Removing alternate
needles from a knitting
machine either physically
or by selection, to
coarsen the gauge or to
enable certain loop
manipulations to take
place
HALF-HOSE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A leg covering
garment, ending at mid
calf.
A leg covering garment,
ending at mid calf.
HALF-MARL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Worsted. See under Worsted.
HALF-MILANO RIB fabrics A weft-knitted rib-
based fabric
A weft-knitted rib-based
fabric, consisting of (i)
one row of 1x1 rib and (ii)
one row of plain knitting
made on either set of
needles. The appearance
and characteristics of the
fabric are related to the
ratio of the course
lengths of (i) and (ii). See
also Milano rib.
HALF-POINT
TRANSFER
processes,
operations
See Knotted stitch and
Spread loop.
See Knotted stitch and
Spread loop.
HALF-ROUND
RUCHE
accessories See under Ruche See under Ruche
HALF-STITCH seams,
stitches
Loose, open stitches
used in pillow laces
Loose, open stitches
used in pillow laces
HALF-TONE EFFECT processes,
operations
In printing, a gradual
shading from light to
dark in the same colour
In printing, a gradual
shading from light to dark
in the same colour
HALO defects See under Swealing See under Swealing
HAND fabrics See Hand of fabric See Hand of fabric
HAND BLOCK
PRINTING
processes,
operations
Process of printing
textiles using blocks
Process of printing
textiles using blocks. The
blocks are made of wood,
linoleum or metal, are
used to apply thickened
378
Word Category Short description Description
dyestuff pastes at normal
room temperatures. A
separate block is used for
each different colour in
the finished design. The
size of the block is limited
by size and weight that
the printer can handle. It
is a slow operation
HAND FLAT
KNITTING MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A V-bed, flat bed or
single bed latch needle
knitting machine
designed to be
powered by hand.
A V-bed, flat bed or
single bed latch needle
knitting machine
designed to be powered
by hand. Such machines
are widely used
industrially, where the
product competes
favourably with the power
machine. Very quick
response and very short
production runs are
possible.
HAND FRAME apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A characteristic of the
hand frame is the
heavy oak frame that
supports the working
head.
Knitting machines
constructed like the
original invented by the
Reverend William Lee in
Calverton (1589), having
horizontally mounted
bearded needles and
drop down sinkers. A
characteristic of the hand
frame is the heavy oak
frame that supports the
working head.
HAND KERCHIEF
LAWN
fabrics See Handkerchief
linen.
See Handkerchief linen.
HAND KERCHIEF
LINEN
fabrics Also known as hand-
kerchief lawn; it
describes the finest
cotton or linen lawn
fabric, or cambric, used
for handkerchiefs.
Also known as hand-
kerchief lawn; it
describes the finest
cotton or linen lawn
fabric, or cambric, used
for handkerchiefs. Made
in plain colours or printed;
it can be boiled and hot-
washed, and wears very
well. In addition to
handkerchiefs it is used
for baby clothes,
379
Word Category Short description Description
christening gowns and
table linen.
HAND KNOTTED
CARPET
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A carpet made by
knotting tufts into a
substrate by hand.
A carpet made by
knotting tufts into a
substrate by hand. The
two most common types
of knot used are the
Persian (or sehba) and
the Turkish (or ghiordes).
HAND LOOMED fabrics Also called Hand
woven.
Also called Hand woven.
Fabrics, which are woven
on either the hand or
hand-and-foot power
loom.
HAND OF FABRIC fabrics Also called Hand and
Handle. The tactile
sensations or
impressions which
arise when fabrics are
touched, squeezed,
rubbed, or otherwise
handled. Term
comprising various
physical handling
properties of fabric
Also called Hand and
Handle. The tactile
sensations or
impressions which arise
when fabrics are touched,
squeezed, rubbed, or
otherwise handled. Term
comprising various
physical handling
properties of fabric, such
as:
Flexibility: Term
explaining ease of
bending, varying from
pliable (high) to stiff (low).
Compressibility: Term
explaining ease of
squeezing, varying from
soft (high) to hard (low).
Extensibility: Term
explaining ease of
stretching, varying from
stretchy (high) to
nonstretchy (low).
Resilience: Term
explaining ability to
recover from deformation,
varying from springy
(high) to limp (low).
Resilience may be
flexural, compressional,
or torsional.
Density: Term explaining
mass per unit volume
380
Word Category Short description Description
(based on measurement
of thickness and fabric
weight), varying from
compact (high) to open
(low).
Surface contour: Term
explaining divergence of
the surface from
planeness, varying from
rough (high) to smooth
(low).
Surface friction: Term
explaining resistance to
slipping offered by the
surface, varying from
harsh (high) to slippery
(low).
Thermal character: Term
explaining apparent
difference in temperature
of the fabric and skin of
the observer touching it,
varying from cool (high)
to warm (low).
HAND PICK defects A fabric defect A fabric defect, produced
when a pick is pulled out
of line for a short
distance, resulting in a
triangular shaped hole
HAND SCREEN
PRINTING
processes,
operations
Printing from flat
screens by hand.
Printing from flat screens
by hand.
HAND SPUN fibers,
filaments,
yarns, fabrics
Yarns, which are spun
by hand, or fabrics
made from such yarns.
Yarns, which are spun by
hand, or fabrics made
from such yarns. They
are more interesting and
unusual than the more
uniform machine spun
HAND WASHING processes,
operations
The most gentle form
of home laundering
The most gentle form of
home laundering using
hand manipulation
without the use of a
machine or device such
as a scrubbing board.
HAND WHEEL apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Balance wheel. See Balance wheel.
HAND WOVEN fabrics See Hand loomed. See Hand loomed.
381
Word Category Short description Description
HAND-HOLD processes,
operations
See Roving courses See Roving courses
HAND-OVERCAST
SEAM-FINISH
seams,
stitches
A finish for the raw
edges of a plain seam,
in which hand stitches,
are taken over the raw
edges of each seam
allowance
A finish for the raw edges
of a plain seam, in which
hand stitches, are taken
over the raw edges of
each seam allowance. A
hand-overcast seam-
finish is made by using a
single thread and needle
to stitch by hand 3 to 6
mm deep and 6 mm apart
over the raw edge of
each seam allowance.
HAND-WASH, DRIP-
DRY
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See Wash-and-wear. See Wash-and-wear.
HANDLE fabrics,
fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
IN FABRIC. The
character of a fabric as
determined by handling
it.
1. IN FABRIC. The
character of a fabric as
determined by handling it.
See Hand of fabric.
2. IN GARMENT. A loop
or loops fixed on a
garment for hanging it up.
3. AS AN APPLIANCE. A
device of wood, metal or
plastic from which a
garment may be hung.
HANDLOOM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A hand operated
machine for producing
cloth by weaving
A hand operated machine
for producing cloth by
weaving. In some
instances, the shedding
is performed by foot
operation
HANG PICK defects Also called Hang shot.
Fabric defect.
Also called Hang shot.
Fabric defect. A pick,
caught on a warp yarn
knot for a short distance,
producing a triangular
shaped hole in the fabric.
HANG SHOT defects See Hang pick See Hang pick
HANK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Skein,
Reel.
Also called Skein, Reel.
1. In indirect yarn
numbering system, a
skein of such a length
that the number of such
skeins per pound equals
382
Word Category Short description Description
the indirect yarn number
(count); e.g. since the
cotton count is the
number of 840 yard
lengths per pound, a
skein having a length of
840 yard is a hank in that
system. See also Yarn
numbering system.
2. An unsupported coil
(e.g. approximately 135
cm in circumference)
composed of a specified
number of wraps of yarn
or sliver and wound on a
reeling machine with a
cross-wound pattern that
allows the resulting
assembly of strands to be
leased. Hanks may be
bundled for ease of
transport and storage.
After processes such as
bleaching, dyeing, yarn
from a hank, mounted on
a swift is wound onto a
suitable package
HANK DYEING processes,
operations
Dyeing yarn that has
been reeled into hanks.
Dyeing yarn that has
been reeled into hanks.
Sometimes also called
Skein dyeing.
HANK SIZING processes,
operations
The sizing of yarn in
the form of hanks or
skeins
The sizing of yarn in the
form of hanks or skeins,
normally used for
experimental work or
short warps.
HANKING MACHINE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Reeling machine. See Reeling machine.
HARATEEN fabrics A furnishing cloth,
made with a worsted
warp and a thicker
worsted weft
A furnishing cloth, made
with a worsted warp and
a thicker worsted weft to
form horizontal ribs, and
then finished by watering
and stamping.
HARD DOT apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In photogravure
printing, the system in
which the cells are of
In photogravure printing,
the system in which the
cells are of differing
383
Word Category Short description Description
differing widths but of
the same depth.
widths but of the same
depth.
HARD END defects See Tight twist end. See Tight twist end.
HARD FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Leaf fibre. See Leaf fibre.
HARD FINISHED fabrics A fabric the face of
which is finished
without any nap.
1. Usually refers to wool
fabrics woven from tightly
twisted yarns and
finished without napping.
2. A fabric the face of
which is finished without
any nap. The term is
applied to cotton, woollen
and worsted fabrics.
HARD LAID ROPE accessories See under Rope. See under Rope.
HARD SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Raw silk, which has not
been degummed.
Raw silk, which has not
been degummed.
HARD SIZE defects Also called Starch
lump. Fabric defect
Also called Starch lump.
Fabric defect. Sections in
the cloth, where the warp
contains an excessive
quantity of sizing.
HARD SOAP Formula contains
sodium compounds of
fatty acids that harden
when exposed to air.
Formula contains sodium
compounds of fatty acids
that harden when
exposed to air.
HARD SPUN YARNS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Yarns spun with a high
tight twist
Yarns spun with a high
tight twist
HARD WASTE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Waste from reeling,
warping, winding,
weaving, and cop
bottoms
Waste from reeling,
warping, winding,
weaving, and cop
bottoms
HARD WATER general Water having a high
magnesium or calcium
content.
Water having a high
magnesium or calcium
content. A special soap is
necessary in order to
make suds.
HARDANGER CLOTH fabrics Plain weave cotton
fabric of coarse
construction, so that
the weave is easily
visible.
Plain weave cotton fabric
of coarse construction, so
that the weave is easily
visible. Used for
embroidery, especially
the types where threads
have to be counted. The
384
Word Category Short description Description
threads are usually
arranged in pairs
HARDENING processes,
operations
Treatment of man-
made regenerated
protein filaments
1. Treatment of man-
made regenerated
protein filaments so as to
render them completely
insoluble in cold water
and cold dilute saline
solutions.
2. A process in the
pressed felt industry and
in hat manufacture in
which a mass of loose
fibres, after being roughly
shaped by carding and
forming is subjected to a
high-speed vibratory
motion in the presence of
steam while under
considerable mechanical
pressure.
HARE HAIR fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The hair texture of hare
is soft and woolly
The hair texture of hare is
soft and woolly. Hare hair
is greatly used in the
USA. It may be spun with
wool, to produce a result
similar to that of a
wool/rabbit mixture
HARE POCKET garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
An extra large jetted
pocket inserted in to
the lining of a coat
An extra large jetted
pocket inserted in to the
lining of a coat, usually
fastened with buttons.
HARLEQUIN fabrics A large plaid check in
three or more
contrasting colours;
A large plaid check in
three or more contrasting
colours; also, a large,
bold check, generally
made with a white check
and a contrasting check
of a vivid colour.
HARNESS apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In looms, a frame
containing a number of
heddles which is
moved up and down to
help form the warp
shed
In looms, a frame
containing a number of
heddles which is moved
up and down to help form
the warp shed, i.e. to
separate the warp yarns
to make an opening for
the weft yarns to pass
through. At least two
385
Word Category Short description Description
harneses are required.
HARNESS
BREAKDOWN
defects Fabric defect, major. Fabric defect, major.
Caused by the harness
straps breaking on a
conventional loom. A
definite pattern change in
the weave will be seen on
the fabric.
HARNESS MARK defects Roughed-up warp yarn
shows in dark lines
when the fabric is
being woven.
Roughed-up warp yarn
shows in dark lines when
the fabric is being woven.
The result of the heddles
not operating smoothly
because they are tight,
loose or worn appreciably
HARNESS SKIP defects See Float See Float
HARRIS TWEED fabrics Rough, very
hardwearing tweed
fabric in mixed natural
colours with a
distinctive close weave
and hairy finish.
Rough, very hardwearing
tweed fabric in mixed
natural colours with a
distinctive close weave
and hairy finish.
Comes only from the
islands of the Outer
Hebrides, where it was
once made from hand-
spun woollen yarn and
the cloth is labeled
accordingly, but it is a
very exclusive and
expensive cloth. The
wool is usually dyed
before spinning so the
colour mixtures in
heather, lovat and brown
are standard types. The
weave is usually 2/2 twill
either straight or
herringbone and a variety
of check patterns are
produced. The finish is
full in handle and fibrous
although the weave is not
obscured. Used mainly
for expensive tailored
coats and suits.
HARVARD fabrics A shirting cloth with 2/2
twill weave, usually
with a coloured warp
A shirting cloth with 2/2
twill weave, usually with a
coloured warp and white
386
Word Category Short description Description
and white weft. weft. These are often
ornamented by stripes of
white or coloured threads
or by simple weave
effects or by both.
HAT BODY fabrics Also called Hat shape.
Millinery fabric, which
has been blocked.
Also called Hat shape.
Millinery fabric, which has
been blocked. This is the
form in which hat material
is usually sold in the
millinery trade
HAT SHAPE fabrics See Hat body See Hat body
HATCHED fabrics Fabric in which one
pattern, colour or yarn
is overlaid on another
Fabric in which one
pattern, colour or yarn is
overlaid on another. May
be woven or printed. The
term also meant, crossed
with lines.
HATTING fabrics Millinery fabrics. Millinery fabrics.
HAUTEUR fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Fibre length. See under Fibre length.
HAWSER LAID ROPE accessories See under Rope See under Rope
HAWSER TWIST fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The construction of
cabled yarn, cord, or
rope
The construction of
cabled yarn, cord, or rope
in which the single and
first-ply twist are in the
same direction and the
second-ply twist is in the
opposite direction, and
S/S/Z or Z/Z/S
construction.
HEAD accessories,
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
IN ZIPPERS. The
portion of the element
that engages the
pocket.
1. IN ZIPPERS. The
portion of the element
that engages the pocket.
2. IN PRESSING
MACHINE. The upper,
movable working surface
of the pressing machine
which incorporates the
mating shape or contour
to that of the buck. The
head comes in to contact
with the garment with or
without pressure.
HEAD BAND accessories A woven narrow fabric
used in bookbinding
A woven narrow fabric
used in bookbinding, and
387
Word Category Short description Description
having a coloured piped
or beaded edge woven
integrally
HEAD END fabrics The beginning of a new
piece of fabric in the
loom,
1. The beginning of a
new piece of fabric in the
loom, usually showing
identification marks.
2. A representative
sample of a larger lot of
cloth.
HEAD GIRTH garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related term. Garment-related term.
See under Garment
sizing system.
HEADING fabrics,
accessories
The beginning and the
end of a piece of
woven fabric
1. The beginning and the
end of a piece of woven
fabric.
2. See under Fringe.
HEADSTOCK apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A geared head used to
drive a warp beam
A geared head used to
drive a warp beam in the
beaming, warping or
slashing operations.
HEALD apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Also called Heddle. Also called Heddle. A
device made of looped
cord, shaped wire or thin,
flat, steel strip with an
eye in the centre through
which a warp end is
threaded so that its
movement can then be
controlled during
weaving. See also
Harness
HEART YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A center thread around
which other threads are
twisted to form core
yarn.
A center thread around
which other threads are
twisted to form core yarn.
HEAT DURABILITY general The extent, to which a
material retains its
useful properties at
ambient air conditions
The extent, to which a
material retains its useful
properties at ambient air
conditions, following its
exposure to a specified
temperature and
environment for a
specified time and its
return to the ambient air
conditions. (Compare
Heat resistance.)
388
Word Category Short description Description
HEAT DURABLE general Having the property of
heat durability.
Having the property of
heat durability.
HEAT FLUX general The thermal intensity
indicated by the
amount of power per
unit area.
The thermal intensity
indicated by the amount
of power per unit area.
HEAT RESISTANCE general The extent to which a
material retains its
useful properties
The extent to which a
material retains its useful
properties as measured
during exposure of the
material to a specified
temperature and
environment for a
specified time. (Compare
Heat durability).
HEAT RESISTANT general Having the property of
heat resistance.
Having the property of
heat resistance.
HEAT SHRINKAGE fabrics The change in
dimension of a fabric
specimen exposed to
heat.
The change in dimension
of a fabric specimen
exposed to heat.
HEAT TRANSFER
COEFFICIENT
general See Thermal
transmittance.
See Thermal
transmittance.
HEAT TRANSFER
PRINTING
processes,
operations
A method of textile
printing
A method of textile
printing in which, the
complete design is
transferred from a
previously printed
transfer medium, usually
paper, on to the fabric
with which it is in contact,
by means of heat and
pressure.
HEAT-SETTING processes,
operations
Process of imposing
permanent dimensions
upon thermoplastic
garments and materials
by the action of heat,
with or without steam.
Process of imposing
permanent dimensions
upon thermoplastic
garments and materials
by the action of heat, with
or without steam. When
dimensional constraints
are applied, new linkages
are formed which
stabilise the shape
dictated and which will
remain unchanged until
the material is subjected
to a temperature higher
389
Word Category Short description Description
than that of heat-setting.
There are two types of
heat setting; Dry heat-
setting and Steam heat-
setting, using saturated
steam.
The stage at which heat
setting takes place varies
according to the type of
material and the
preferred sequence of
processes. Unless there
are reasons to the
contrary, setting after
dyeing is preferred.
HEATHER it is the basis of the
yellow dye used in
dyeing Harris tweeds.
A popular flower in the
British Isles; it is the basis
of the yellow dye used in
dyeing Harris tweeds.
HEATHER MIX fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Varicoloured fibres are
blended
Varicoloured fibres are
blended to produce a
yarn with a mixed or
speckled effect.
HEATHER-MIXTURES fabrics Describes both woven
and knitted wool fabric
found in a combination
of greens and purples,
or Scottish heather
colours.
Describes both woven
and knitted wool fabric
found in a combination of
greens and purples, or
Scottish heather colours.
Colours are often used in
equal amounts so that no
one colour predominates
HEAVY COLOUR defects See Machine stop. See Machine stop.
HEAVY DUTY SOAP A cleansing agent A cleansing agent that
has special alkalies
added to improve its
cleaning power.
HEAVY END defects See Coarse end. See Coarse end.
HEAVY FILLING defects See Coarse pick See Coarse pick
HEAVY GOODS fabrics Another name which is
popular in India for
Sacking.
Another name which is
popular in India for
Sacking.
HEAVY PICK defects See Coarse pick See Coarse pick
HEAVY PLACE defects See Coarse filling bar See Coarse filling bar
HEDDLE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Heald. See Heald.
390
Word Category Short description Description
HEIGHT garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related term. Garment-related term.
See under Garment
sizing system
HELANCA fabrics Made from Swiss
elastic fibre of nylon
and polyester.
Made from Swiss elastic
fibre of nylon and
polyester. Fabrics have
two-way stretch and are
very hardwearing and
washable. Used for
sportswear, skiwear,
swimsuits, trousers, and
panels in maternity
clothes
HELD LOOP fabrics In knitting, a loop
which, having been
pulled through the loop
of the previous course,
is retained by the
needle during the
knitting of one or more
additional courses
In knitting, a loop which,
having been pulled
through the loop of the
previous course, is
retained by the needle
during the knitting of one
or more additional
courses
HELICAL SELVEDGE fabrics See under Selvedge. See under Selvedge.
HELIX YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A textured yarn that is
curled or crimped
A textured yarn that is
curled or crimped
HELVETIA fabrics A warp-faced poplin
made with greige silk
warp and spun silk weft
and printed on both
sides.
A warp-faced poplin
made with greige silk
warp and spun silk weft
and printed on both
sides. The number of
ends per inch are about
twice the number of
picks. Weft is sometimes
made of fine count
cotton. Similar to
J aponais
HEM garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A folded edge
produced by turning in
the edge of a garment
and securing it.
A folded edge produced
by turning in the edge of
a garment and securing
it.
HEM ALLOWANCE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The amount of fabric
turned under at the
hemline.
The amount of fabric
turned under at the
hemline.
HEMLINE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The line along which a
hem is marked and
folded.
The line along which a
hem is marked and
folded.
HEMMER apparatus, In sewing machine, an In sewing machine, an
391
Word Category Short description Description
equipage,
tools
attachment attachment, which folds
the material so that the
edge is turned under to
form a hem when sewn.
HEMMING-STITCH seams,
stitches
A short, quickly sewn,
slanting stitch.
A short, quickly sewn,
slanting stitch.
HEMP fibers,
filaments,
yarns
True hemp is a fine,
light-coloured, lustrous,
and strong bast fibre,
obtained from the
hemp plant, Cannabis
sativa.
True hemp is a fine, light-
coloured, lustrous, and
strong bast fibre,
obtained from the hemp
plant, Cannabis sativa.
A plant similar to jute,
grown in many countries.
When spun, it is rather
like flax but thicker and
coarser. It is a very
strong fibre and is used in
the manufacture of
carpets, rugs, ropes, etc.
but has limited use
because bleaching is
difficult.
The term hemp is often
incorrectly used in a
generic sense for fibres
from different plants, e.g.
manila hemp, sisal
hemp, sunn hemp, etc,
HENEQUEN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A fibre obtained from
the leaf of Agava
fourcroydes.
A fibre obtained from the
leaf of Agava
fourcroydes. This closely
resembles Sisal.
HENRIETTA fabrics Fine diagonal twilled
dress fabric made with
silk warp and fine
worsted weft, which
makes it, resemble
Cashmere cloth.
Fine diagonal twilled
dress fabric made with
silk warp and fine
worsted weft, which
makes it, resemble
Cashmere cloth. Once in
great demand, but it has
not been very much in
evidence for some time
HERRINGBONE fabrics WEAVE. A
combination of twill
weaves in which the
direction of the twill is
reversed
1. WEAVE. A
combination of twill
weaves in which the
direction of the twill is
reversed (usually by
drafting) to produce
stripes resembling
392
Word Category Short description Description
herringbones
2. FABRIC. A cloth in
which this weave is used.
HESSEN fabrics See Barras. See Barras.
HESSIAN fabrics Coarse, even, plain
weave and plain dyed
cloth. Bast fibres, often
coarse jute, or
sometimes jute and
hemp yarns are used
to make this.
Coarse, even, plain
weave and plain dyed
cloth. Bast fibres, often
coarse jute, or sometimes
jute and hemp yarns are
used to make this. Used
for sacking and in
upholstery, but it can also
be a well finished smooth
cloth, dyed in a wide
variety of colours and
used for wall-covering,
notice board covering,
curtains and blinds.
Name applied in United
Kingdom, India, and on
the Continent to material
called burlap in the
United States. See also
Burlap
HETEROFIL FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Original generic name
for biconstituent fibres.
Also called Meldable
fibres.
Original generic name for
biconstituent fibres. Also
called Meldable fibres.
Multicomponent synthetic
fibres have been made
by extruding two or more
polymers, under
conditions such that they
do not mix, through the
same spinneret. These
bicomponent fibres may
be structurally side-by-
side, sheath-core or
eccentric sheath-core.
Heterofil or meldable
fibres consist of a sheath
of nylon 6, which has a
comparatively low melting
point and a core of nylon
66 with a higher meting
point. Filaments are
extruded from a battery of
spinnerets on to a moving
conveyor and laid in
393
Word Category Short description Description
random fashion to form a
web. This is then heated
so that the filament skin
of the individual fibre
softens and melts and
spot bonds are formed
where the heterofil fibres
touch. The web is next
passed to a cooling zone
where the skin solidifies
to form a permanent
bond at each intersection.
The method of fabric
production varies. In
some cases the web is
needled and then passed
through an oven to
produce the inter-fibre
bonds. Alternatively the
web can be passed
beneath a heated
pressure roller. This
method has the benefit
that a lower processing
temperature can be used
and an embossed roller
will produce a surface
pattern on the fabric.
An example of hetrofil
fibre is the Nylon hetrofil
fibre available with a
sheath of nylon 6 and a
core of nylon 66.
HETEROFILAMENTS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Heterofil fibre. See Heterofil fibre.
HETEROTYPICAL
FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A coarse type of carpet
wool whose fibre
structure varies along
its entire length;
A coarse type of carpet
wool whose fibre
structure varies along its
entire length; it is
questionable whether this
fibre can be classified as
Wool or Hair
HI-LO PILE fabrics The pile texture of
domestic rugs.
The pile texture of
domestic rugs. Certain
areas of pile are sheared
so that the pile is higher
(Hi) than the pile in other
394
Word Category Short description Description
areas (Lo).
HICKORY CLOTH fabrics This resembles
Ticking, but is lighter in
weight and not so
firmly woven.
This resembles Ticking,
but is lighter in weight
and not so firmly woven.
Made from cotton, or
polyester and cotton.
Used for protective
clothing, overalls, etc.
HIDING POWER fabrics The ability of a fabric to
obscure what lies
underneath it.
The ability of a fabric to
obscure what lies
underneath it.
HIGH CHARGED
SYSTEM
processes,
operations
See under Charged
system.
See under Charged
system.
HIGH COUNT
FABRICS
fabrics Closely woven fabrics. Closely woven fabrics.
HIGH ELONGATION
HWM FIBRES
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under HWM modal
fibre.
See under HWM modal
fibre.
HIGH STRENGTH
HWM FIBRES
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under HWM modal
fibre
See under HWM modal
fibre
HIGH TEMPERATURE
FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibres capable of
retaining useful
properties at elevated
temperatures,
Fibres capable of
retaining useful
properties at elevated
temperatures, above
about 400 C., e.g.
Aluminium silicate fibre
HIGH VOLUME
INSTRUMENTATION
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Also called HVI. Also called HVI. An
assembly of integrated
semi-automatic electronic
instruments for rapid
determination of the
fineness, length, impurity
content and strength of
samples of raw cotton.
HIGH WARP fabrics A warp hung vertically
in the loom instead of
horizontally, as is now
usual.
A warp hung vertically in
the loom instead of
horizontally, as is now
usual. Particularly apples
to tapestry looms
HIGH-BULK YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A fluffy, textured yarn,
made from a
combination of high
and low shrinkage
staple fibres.
A fluffy, textured yarn,
made from a combination
of high and low shrinkage
staple fibres. When the
combined yarn is
immersed in water during
processing, the high
395
Word Category Short description Description
shrinkage fibre draws
itself down to the centre
of the yarn causing the
low shrinkage fibres to
buckle or fluff, thus
producing a fluffy yarn
sited for sweaters or
similar purposes. See
also Bulky yarn.
HIGH-BUST GIRTH garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related term. Garment-related term.
See under Garment
sizing system
HIGH-HIP GIRTH garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related term Garment-related term.
See under Garment
sizing system.
HIGH-SPEED
SPINNING
processes,
operations
A melt spinning
process
A melt spinning process
in which filaments are
drawn down and
collected at high speeds.
HIGH-
TEMPERATURE
DYEING
processes,
operations
Also called HTHP
(High Temperature
High Pressure) dyeing.
Also called HTHP (High
Temperature High
Pressure) dyeing.
Dyeing at high-pressure
(above atmospheric) in
order to dye at a
temperature above the
normal boiling point.
Application of dyestuffs,
especially to petroleum
based synthetic fibres, in
aqueous baths at
temperatures upto even
390 C. in pressurised
equipment
HIGH-TENACITY
FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A man-made fibre
either, belonging to a
generic class of fibres
having exceptional
breaking strength.
A man-made fibre either,
belonging to a generic
class of fibres having
exceptional breaking
strength.
A man-made fibre,
modified by various
methods to give it
increased tensile
strength. This will have a
breaking strength
significantly greater than
the average strength of
other (regular tenacity)
396
Word Category Short description Description
fibres in same generic
class and of equivalent
linear densities.
High-tenacity fibres are
usually used in industrial
products where
mechanical properties,
such as strength, are
major factors in fibre
selecti
HIMALAYA fabrics Appearance and
weight is like
Shantung, but is made
from slub cotton yarns.
Appearance and weight
is like Shantung, but is
made from slub cotton
yarns.
HIP garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related term Garment-related term.
See under Garment
sizing system
HIP GIRTH garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related term. Garment-related term.
See under Garment
sizing system.
HITCH-BACK defects See Draw-back. See Draw-back.
HOCKLE defects Sometimes also called
Cockle
Sometimes also called
Cockle. In cordage,
deformation of the
strands in a laid rope,
during manufacture,
caused by the removal of
kinks by pulling them out
of the rope by force.
HOG WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The first clip from a
sheep not shorn as a
lamb.
Also called Hogget wool,
and Teg wool. The first
clip from a sheep not
shorn as a lamb.
HOGGET WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Hog wool. See Hog wool.
HOLE defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. An
imperfection where one
or more yarns are
sufficiently damaged to
create an aperture.
Usually caused by broken
needle.
HOLE COUNT fabrics See under Lace quality See under Lace quality
HOLLAND fabrics A completely filled,
medium-weight, plain-
weave fabric made
A completely filled,
medium-weight, plain-
weave fabric made from
397
Word Category Short description Description
from linen or cotton
yarn, having a smooth
gloss finish on both
sides
linen or cotton yarn,
having a smooth gloss
finish on both sides; the
finish of size and oil is
applied to stiffen it.
Mainly used as a
separating medium for
sheeted rubber
compounds and in
upholstery for
undercovering, as it is
firm and hardwearing.
Holland is also a canvas
interfacing. See Woven
interfacings.
HOLLIE POINT LACE fabrics A needlepoint lace
worked in patterns
A needlepoint lace
worked in patterns
depicting scriptural
subjects or religious
emblems.
HOLLIE-STITCH seams,
stitches
A type of buttonhole-
stitch with a twist.
A type of buttonhole-
stitch with a twist. Used in
making Hollie point lace
HOLLOW BRAID accessories In rope, a braided
construction of either
plain or twill braid,
having an empty
centre.
In rope, a braided
construction of either
plain or twill braid, having
an empty centre.
HOLLOW FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A tube-like fibre or
filament made in
viscose, polyester and
some other fibres,
making use of the
theory of still air for
warmth.
A tube-like fibre or
filament made in viscose,
polyester and some other
fibres, making use of the
theory of still air for
warmth. The fibre is
extruded completely
hollow, as very fine
micro-tubes, air-filled
along the length of fibre,
at the same time making
them appreciably softer
and lighter than standard
fibres. Used in thermal
underwear, soft warm
fillings for outerwear and
upholstery.
HOLLOW SPINDLE
SPINNING
processes,
operations
Also called Wrap
spinning. A system of
yarn formation in which
Also called Wrap
spinning. A system of
yarn formation in which
398
Word Category Short description Description
the feed stock (sliver or
roving) is drafted, and
the drafted twistless
strand is wrapped with
a yarn as it passes
through a rotating
hollow spindle
the feed stock (sliver or
roving) is drafted, and the
drafted twistless strand is
wrapped with a yarn as it
passes through a rotating
hollow spindle. The
binder or wrapping yarn
is mounted on the hollow
spindle and is unwound
and wrapped around the
core by rotation of the
spindle. The technique
may be used for
producing a range of
wrap-spun yarns, or
fancy yarns, by using
different yarn and fibre
feedstocks fed to the
hollow spindle at different
speeds.
See also Spinning.
HOLLOW-FILAMENT
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Aerated
yarn. A viscose rayon
yarn produced from a
spinning solution in
which bubbles of air or
inert gas are
systematically formed
by incorporating fluids
or solids with the
viscose solution to
produce a gas.
Also called Aerated yarn.
A viscose rayon yarn
produced from a spinning
solution in which bubbles
of air or inert gas are
systematically formed by
incorporating fluids or
solids with the viscose
solution to produce a gas.
The yarn, therefore,
contains small amounts
of air or inert gas, and
because of its special
structure possesses
characteristics different
from regular solid
filament viscose yarn. It
has a greater covering
power, because the
ribbon-like form of the
fibre gives it more
volume, and a great deal
of the bulk of the yarn is
filled with the bubbles,
which have practically no
weight. The larger
number of surfaces in the
yarn gives a greater
399
Word Category Short description Description
degree of light reflection
and refraction which
decreases the lustre,
making it duller than
ordinary delustred rayon,
and the hollow structure
of the yarn results in a
lower coefficient of heat
transmission than
ordinary solid viscose
rayon, in addition to
greater flexibility and
softness of hand. It is
warmer to the touch than
regular viscose rayon and
has a very dry feel, but its
tensile strength is low.
Used for hosiery, velvets,
necktie fabrics,
underwear, etc.
Macaroni yarn and
Tubular yarn are terms
sometimes applied to
hollow-filament yarn.
However, they are hardly
apt descriptions, since
the air bubbles within the
yarn do not form a
continuous tubular
opening. See Macaroni
yarn and Tubular yarn.
HOME LAUNDERING processes,
operations
A process by which
textile products or parts
thereof may be
washed, bleached,
dried, and pressed
A process by which
textile products or parts
thereof may be washed,
bleached, dried, and
pressed by any
customary method
designed for use in a
residence, or non-
professional use. See
also Professional care
HOMESPUN fabrics Rather coarse, plain-
weave woollen fabric
with a hand-woven
appearance, which was
once actually woven in
the home in all
countries.
Rather coarse, plain-
weave woollen fabric with
a hand-woven
appearance, which was
once actually woven in
the home in all countries.
Has always been a
hardwearing, serviceable
400
Word Category Short description Description
cloth, but is now entirely
machine-made, although
sometimes labeled
Homespun to indicate its
good qualities. It may be
made from any fibre now,
and in any weight. Similar
to Harris tweed
HOMOPOLYMER A polymer composed
of one substance or
one type of molecule
A polymer composed of
one substance or one
type of molecule
HOMOPOLYMER
FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A man-made fibre A man-made fibre having
a single chemical
polymer as distinguished
from a copolymer.
HONAN fabrics Fabric made from silk
yarn obtained from the
Honan area of China,
which is the only type
of wild silk that accepts
dye evenly.
Fabric made from silk
yarn obtained from the
Honan area of China,
which is the only type of
wild silk that accepts dye
evenly. Fabric is light and
rough textured.
Honan is also used to
describe a viscose fabric,
which has a checked
effect.
HONEYCOMB fabrics A fabric, in which the
warp and weft threads
form ridges and
hollows, which give a
cell-like appearance.
A fabric, in which the
warp and weft threads
form ridges and hollows,
which give a cell-like
appearance. Warp and
weft threads float on both
sides and the rough
structure makes the cloth
absorbent. It may be
printed or woven in
patterns. Cotton
Honeycomb (sometimes
called Waffle cloth), is
very common and, plain
or printed, is used for
childrens clothes,
dresses, kitchen curtains,
table cloths. Often
contains some polyester
fibre.
There are three types of
weave which produce this
401
Word Category Short description Description
effect: (a) Ordinary
honeycomb, which gives
a marked cellular effect
on the face and back of
the cloth, (b) Brighton
honeycomb, which
develops the effect more
prominently on the face
but in a less regular
manner and with large
and small cells and (c)
Grecian weave.
HONEYCOMB
STITCH
seams,
stitches
A stitch made by
gathering and sewing
the cloth in either a
diamond or honeycomb
fashion; sometimes
called smocking.
A stitch made by
gathering and sewing the
cloth in either a diamond
or honeycomb fashion;
sometimes called
smocking. Used for
ornamentation of
blouses, childrens
dresses and smocks.
HONEYDEW defects The result of infestation
of growing cotton by
aphids or whitefly.
The result of infestation
of growing cotton by
aphids or whitefly. It
takes the form of more or
less randomly distributed
droplets of highly
concentrated sugars,
causing cotton sickness.
HONG KONG SEAM-
FINISH
processes,
operations
A finish for the raw
edges of a plain seam,
in which a binding
fabric encloses the raw
edge of each seam
allowance
A finish for the raw edges
of a plain seam, in which
a binding fabric encloses
the raw edge of each
seam allowance; the
binding fabric has one
raw edge enclosed and
the other raw edge
exposed. A Hong Kong
seam-finish is made by
(1) selecting a strip of
light weight bias lining or
commercial bias tape
pressed open (25 mm
wide), (2) placing the bias
strip against each seam
allowance, face sides
together and raw edges
even, (3) stitching 6 mm
402
Word Category Short description Description
from the raw edges, (4)
pressing the binding
away from the seam
allowance and over raw
edges toward the inside,
and (5) stitching in the
previous stitching line
(sometimes called stitch-
in-the-ditch) on the face
side of the seam
allowance, thus securing
the binding on the under
side. (Compare Bound
seam-finish).
HONITON LACE fabrics Hand-made lace Hand-made lace
characterized by designs
of flowers and leaves on
a very fine mesh ground.
HOOD garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Also called Body. Also called Body. Acid-
milled cone-shaped felt
used in hat manufacture.
HOOK apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In sewing machine, a
rotating device which
accommodates the
spool
In sewing machine, a
rotating device which
accommodates the spool
and picks up the needle
thread in some types of
lockstitch machines.
HOOK AND LOOP
FASTENERS
accessories See Self-fastening tape
fasteners.
See Self-fastening tape
fasteners.
HOOK-AND-EYE
FASTENERS
accessories Used as garment
closures.
Used as garment
closures. Standard metal
hook-and-eyes are made
available with two types
of eyes; straight eye or
looped eye; selection of
the eye type is based on
the location of the closure
in the garment. The hook
and straight eye is used
where garment edges
overlap. The hook and
loop eye is preferred
where garment edges
just meet, such as at the
back of turtleneck collars.
It is to be noted that, in
some garments a hook
and thread eye is used
403
Word Category Short description Description
rather than a metal eye.
HOOKED BOW defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. A fabric
condition in which the
weft or course yarns are
in the proper position for
most of the fabric width
but are pulled out of
alignment at one side of
the fabric. See also
Double hooked bow.
HOPSACK fabrics Also called Mat, Matt,
Basket. Originally
hopsack was a coarse
double yarn sacking,
made from jute or
hemp.
Also called Mat, Matt,
Basket. Originally
hopsack was a coarse
double yarn sacking,
made from jute or hemp.
Now the name is given to
a plain-weave suiting
weight cloth made by
using two or more yarns
in each direction. May be
made from any natural or
synthetic fibre, but if
synthetic, the fibres are
usually bulked to produce
the traditional cloth. May
also be produced as a
furnishing and curtain
fabric. Generally hopsack
fabrics will fray fairly
readily.
The basic hopsack
weaves may be modified
in various ways, e.g. by
introducing additional
interlacing to give firmer
cloth (stitched hopsack),
or by arranging small
square blocks of figures
to form diagonal lines in
the fabric (twilled
hopsack).
HOPSACK WEAVE fabrics See Basket weave. See Basket weave.
HORIZONTAL LINE defects Same as Ring Same as Ring
HORSE BLANKET fabrics See under Tattersal
check under Checks.
See under Tattersal
check under Checks.
HORSE HAIR fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Long, very coarse hair
from manes and tails of
horses.
Long, very coarse hair
from manes and tails of
horses. At one time it
404
Word Category Short description Description
made a cheap, strong
material used widely for
upholstery, carpets and
interfacing fabrics, but is
now becoming scarce
and very expensive. Hair
is being replaced by man-
made fibre, but the
resulting fabric is referred
to as Hair canvas, not
Horse hair canvas. See
Canvas.
HOSE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A total leg covering
ending in a position
above the knee.
1. A total leg covering
ending in a position
above the knee.
2. A tubular woven
narrow fabric for
conveying fluid under
pressure.
HOSIERY garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Knitted coverings for
feet and legs
Knitted coverings for feet
and legs. Hosiery may be
knitted from wool, cotton,
nylon and other synthetic
fibres, alone or in blends
such as wool/nylon,
polyester/cotton, etc. The
type of knit may be weft
or warp (mesh and
textured). Comfort in
wear and seasonal
compatibility are
important factors in the
production of hosiery
items like socks,
fashioned stockings,
seamless stockings,
tights and panti-hoses,
etc. While sheerness of
hosiery is dependent on
the denier (yarn weight or
size), durability is
controlled by denier and
gauge (wales per cm and
courses per cm).
Formerly the term was
used in the generic sense
of all types of knitted
fabrics and goods made
up therefrom.
405
Word Category Short description Description
HOSIERY KNITTING
MACHINES
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A knitting machine for
the production of
hosiery
A knitting machine for the
production of hosiery.
Most are small-diameter
latch-needle circular
knitting machines
HOSPITAL GAUZE fabrics bleached and sterilized
cheesecloth used in
hospitals.
bleached and sterilized
cheesecloth used in
hospitals.
HOT HEAD PRESS apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Equipment capable of
generating high
temperatures and great
pressure.
Equipment capable of
generating high
temperatures and great
pressure. Used for
pressing garments made
of sensitized fabric and
processing flat-cured
fabrics that require higher
temperatures and longer
periods of time. See
Sensitized and Flash
curing.
HOT
MERCERIZATION
processes,
operations
The treatment of
cellulosic fabric with a
hot concentrated
solution of caustic
alkali
The treatment of
cellulosic fabric with a hot
concentrated solution of
caustic alkali to facilitate
uniform penetration prior
to cooling and stretching
etc., so as to improve the
degree of mercerization.
See also Mercerization
HOT NOTCHER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A machine with a
heated blade
A machine with a heated
blade, used for making
position marks on the
edge of cut fabric parts.
HOT PRESSING processes,
operations
A process for
smoothing and possibly
shaping textile
products
A process for smoothing
and possibly shaping
textile products by
applying mechanical
pressure with heat, either
dry, or in the presence of
moisture.
HOT WATER
EXTRACTION
processes,
operations
A method of cleaning
carpet
A method of cleaning
carpet by injecting a
heated cleaning solution
into the pile and quickly
removing the solution and
soil by vacuum. See also
Steam cleaning.
406
Word Category Short description Description
HOT-FLUE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A machine in which hot
air is used to dry fabric
carried on rollers along
a serpentine path.
A machine in which hot
air is used to dry fabric
carried on rollers along a
serpentine path.
HOT-FLUID J ET
TEXTURING
processes,
operations
See under Texturing. See under Texturing.
HOTTENROTH
NUMBER
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A measure of the
degree of ripening of
viscose.
A measure of the degree
of ripening of viscose.
HOUNDSTOOTH
CHECK
fabrics A four-pointed star
check design in a
broken twill weave
A four-pointed star check
design in a broken twill
weave; the checks are
medium-sized and one of
the colours is often white.
Used for mens sports
suiting. See also Checks.
HOUSEKEEPING
DEFECTS IN
GARMENT
defects See under Garment
defects, classified.
See under Garment
defects, classified.
HT DYEING processes,
operations
See High-temperature
dyeing.
See High-temperature
dyeing.
HTHP DYEING processes,
operations
See High Temperature
High Pressure dyeing.
See High Temperature
High Pressure dyeing.
HUCK fabrics See Huckaback. See Huckaback.
HUCK TOWEL garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under Towel. See under Towel.
HUCKABACK fabrics Linen or cotton fabric
with a square weave
Linen or cotton fabric with
a square weave, in which
the yarns are twisted to
add to its absorption
qualities as it is used
almost exclusively for
towels in hotels, schools,
etc. Is made in white or
plain colours, sometimes
with a woven contrast
stripe or name included.
Very hardwearing, and
fairly stiff and heavy.
HUCKABACK WEAVE fabrics Lengthwise, but
interrupted ridges are
formed by floats of
warp threads on the
surface of the cloth
Lengthwise, but
interrupted ridges are
formed by floats of warp
threads on the surface of
the cloth. Weave is used
mainly for towels and
glass-cloths
407
Word Category Short description Description
HUDSONS BAY fabrics Also called Point
blanket.
Also called Point blanket.
A well-milled and raised
heavy-weight blanket,
made from coarse long-
stapled wool, with a solid
ground and coloured end
border, or striped all over,
or solid colour with darker
end border. Near one
corner a number of short
stripes or points are
woven into the edge of
the blanket at right-
angles to the selvedge. A
point stripe is about 11
cm long, and a half point
is about 6 cm. The point
system is used as an
indication of blanker size.
HUE general Also called Tone Also called Tone. The
actual colour, which
distinguishes a colour
from others, e.g. red,
yellow, blue, etc. The
attribute of colour
perception by means of
which an object is judged
to be red, orange, yellow,
green, blue, violet or a
combination of these.
HUMAN TISSUE
BURN TOLERANCE
general The amount of thermal
energy, which causes a
second-degree burn in
human tissue.
The amount of thermal
energy, which causes a
second-degree burn in
human tissue.
HUMIDITY general The condition of the
atmosphere in respect
to water vapour
The condition of the
atmosphere in respect to
water vapour. (Compare
Absolute humidity and
Relative humidity).
HUNGBACK fabrics A light weight warp-
backed or weft-backed
overcoating fabric
A light weight warp-
backed or weft-backed
overcoating fabric,
usually 2/2 twill ground
weave, made from
woollen yarns, with extra
hung threads (cotton,
silk, worsted or man-
made fibres) forming
408
Word Category Short description Description
checks or stripes on the
back of the fabric. The
hung threads are finer
than the ground threads
and in the case of 2/2
twill ground weave will
have a 3/1 (or 2/1) twill
weave.
HUNGRY CLOTH fabrics See Grinny cloth. See Grinny cloth.
HUNTERS PINK fabrics Brilliant scarlet velvet
cloth worn by hunters.
Brilliant scarlet velvet
cloth worn by hunters.
Also the name for the
colour when used on any
fabric.
HUSKS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Bisu. See Bisu.
HVI apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See High volume
instrumentation.
See High volume
instrumentation.
HWM MODAL FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
These fibres are
characterized by high
wet modulus (HWM),
i.e. resistance to
extension when wet,
increased ratio of wet
to dry breaking
tenacity, increased
resistance to swelling
by caustic alkalis, high
degree of
polymerization of
cellulose, and micro-
fibrillar structure.
These fibres are
characterized by high wet
modulus (HWM), i.e.
resistance to extension
when wet, increased ratio
of wet to dry breaking
tenacity, increased
resistance to swelling by
caustic alkalis, high
degree of polymerization
of cellulose, and micro-
fibrillar structure. These
characteristics are shared
with cotton and other
natural cellulosic fibres,
and for this reason HWM
modal fibres are
sometimes called
artificial cottons.
High Strength HWM
fibres: These are
characterized by high
tenacities, dry, and wet.
Standard HWM fibres:
This group includes the
majority polynosic fibres.
High Elongation HWM
fibres: These are
409
Word Category Short description Description
characterized by high
elongations, dry and wet.
HYDROENTANGLED
FABRIC
fabrics Also called Spunlaced
fabric.
Also called Spunlaced
fabric. A nonwoven fabric
made from a fibre web or
batt, in which
entanglement by high-
pressure water jets
provides the bond
HYDROEXTRACTION processes,
operations
A method of removing
excess water and
moisture from materials
A method of removing
excess water and
moisture from materials
to facilitate the
manipulation of fibres,
yarns or fabrics.
HYDROLYTIC
STABILITY
general The ability to withstand
the environmental
effects of high
humidity.
The ability to withstand
the environmental effects
of high humidity.
HYDROMETER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A device for measuring
the density or specific
gravity, particularly of
liquids and solutions.
A device for measuring
the density or specific
gravity, particularly of
liquids and solutions.
HYDROPHILIC general Water attracting. Water attracting.
HYDROPHOBIC general Water repelling. Water repelling.
HYDROSCOPIC fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Moisture retaining
property.
Moisture retaining
property. The ability of a
fibre to absorb and retain
moisture. Fibres possess
this property in varying
degrees.
HYDROSTATIC TEST processes,
operations
A test to determine the
resistance of a fabric to
penetration by water.
A test to determine the
resistance of a fabric to
penetration by water.
HYGRAL EXPANSION fabrics The reversible changes
in length and width of
fabrics containing
hygroscopic fibres as a
result of changes in
regain.
The reversible changes in
length and width of
fabrics containing
hygroscopic fibres as a
result of changes in
regain.
HYGROMETER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Any instrument for
measuring the humidity
of the atmosphere
Any instrument for
measuring the humidity of
the atmosphere
HYGROSCOPIC general Having a tendency to
absorb water from the
air.
Having a tendency to
absorb water from the air.
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Word Category Short description Description
HYPOCHLORITE
BLEACHING
processes,
operations
The process of
whitening textile fabrics
The process of whitening
textile fabrics by the use
of solutions of chlorine.
See Bleaching.

I

Word Category Short description Description
ICE COLOURS See Azoic dyes
and Azoic dyeing.
See Azoic dyes and
Azoic dyeing.
ICELAND WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The wool from
Iceland sheep
The wool from Iceland
sheep, that have an
outer covering of long
coarse hair and a fine
woolly undergrowth.
This undergrowth is
used for sweaters and
shawls.
IDENTIFICATION TEST processes,
operations
A procedure
involved in
determining facts
about textiles,
such as kind of
fibres, yarns,
construction,
finish, and
colouring.
A procedure involved
in determining facts
about textiles, such as
kind of fibres, yarns,
construction, finish,
and colouring.
Physical, chemical,
microscopical or other
techniques may be
used.
IGNITION general The initiation of
combustion.
The initiation of
combustion.
IHRAM fabrics A white cotton
cloth devoid of
needlework, worn
by pilgrims to
Mecca.
A white cotton cloth
devoid of needlework,
worn by pilgrims to
Mecca.
IKAT DYEING processes,
operations
A process of
dyeing originated
in Indonesia and
Malaysia in which
a warp is dyed to a
pattern through the
use of resist agent.
A process of dyeing
originated in Indonesia
and Malaysia in which
a warp is dyed to a
pattern through the
use of resist agent.
The warp is made first
in rope form and
predetermined
sections are bound
tightly to protect that
411
Word Category Short description Description
section from the dye.
When the warp is
opened out after
dyeing, a pattern is
shown on the warp
which comes through
into the woven fabric
(warp ikat). A variation
can be achieved by
dyeing the weft yarn in
a similar way (weft
ikat) and in some
cases both warp and
weft may be treated
(double ikat). Careful
control and planning
can give interesting
and unusual figured
effects in the cloth.
The pattern shapes
tend to have soft
edges due to some
relative movement of
the threads in
weaving, and a certain
amount of bleeding
and capillary action in
the dye process.
IKAT FABRIC fabrics Fabric made from
ikat dyed materials
Fabric made from ikat
dyed materials
ILLUMINATED DISCHARGE processes,
operations
See Colour
discharge printing
See Colour discharge
printing
ILLUMINATION general,
fabrics
In lighting, the
density or flux of
light on a unit area
of surface.
1. In lighting, the
density or flux of light
on a unit area of
surface.
2. A term used to
describe any soft
sheet net or tulle.
Mainly used for veils
and dresses
ILOCANO CLOTH fabrics A bright coloured,
striped or checked,
cotton fabric
woven in
Philippines
A bright coloured,
striped or checked,
cotton fabric woven in
Philippines. Used
mainly for swimwear,
active sportswear
IMBERLINE STRIPE fabrics A fabric, woven in A fabric, woven in one
412
Word Category Short description Description
one piece but
appearing to be
composed of a
series of different
strips joined by
gold and silk
galloon.
piece but appearing to
be composed of a
series of different
strips joined by gold
and silk galloon. It is
actually a fabric woven
with various coloured
and patterned stripes,
sepa-rated by gold
stripes.
IMBIBITION fabrics A measure of a
textile materials
ability to hold
liquid.
A measure of a textile
materials ability to
hold liquid.
IMBROCADO fabrics A silver or gold
trimming fabric.
A silver or gold
trimming fabric.
IMITATION MOCK GAUZE fabrics See Perforated
weave.
See Perforated weave.
IMITATION SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A term
occasionally used
in the past for
mercerised cotton
yarn and rayon.
A term occasionally
used in the past for
mercerised cotton yarn
and rayon. Trade and
governmental
regulations classify
this term as a
misnomer.
IMMATURE FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Cotton
maturity
See under Cotton
maturity
IMMEDIATE ELASTIC
DEFORMATION
general Recoverable
deformation
Recoverable
deformation which is
essentially
independent of time,
that is, occurring in (a
time approaching) zero
time and recoverable
(a time approaching)
zero time after removal
of the applied force.
See also Delayed
deformation.
IMMERSION TESTING processes,
operations
A measure of the
properties of
fibres, yarns or
fabrics when
saturated with a
liquid.
A measure of the
properties of fibres,
yarns or fabrics when
saturated with a liquid.
The test is performed
with the sample
413
Word Category Short description Description
immersed in the liquid.
IMMUNIZED COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Cotton that has
been treated to
resist ordinary
cotton-dyes; the
chemical structure
has been
converted into an
ester of cellulose.
Cotton that has been
treated to resist
ordinary cotton-dyes;
the chemical structure
has been converted
into an ester of
cellulose. Acetic
anhydride is one of the
principal agents
employed in the
treatment. Immunized
cotton responds to
dyes suitable for
acetate rayon.
IMPACT RESISTANCE general The resistance to
fracture under the
sudden application
of an external
force.
The resistance to
fracture under the
sudden application of
an external force.
IMPACT TEXTURING processes,
operations
See under
Texturing.
See under Texturing.
IMPERFECT SELVEDGES defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. These
include Blaky
selvedge, Beaded
selvedge, Broken
selvedge, Corded
selvedge, Curled
selvedge, Cut
selvedge, Damaged
selvedge, Dog-legged
selvedge, Doubled
selvedge, Drawn
selvedge, Folded
selvedge, Looped
selvedge, Loose edge,
Rolled selvedge,
Scalloped selvedge,
Slack selvedge, Tight
selvedge, Torn
selvedge, etc.
IMPERIAL CLOTH fabrics Coating fabric of
fine worsted in twill
weave.
Coating fabric of fine
worsted in twill weave.
Imperial serge is
similar, but softer and
looser woven. Both are
firm, durable clothes,
usually dyed navy
414
Word Category Short description Description
blue, and used for
coats, capes, and if
show-erproofed for
raincoats.
IMPERIAL SATEEN fabrics A heavily wefted
fabric
A heavily wefted fabric
based on an eight-end
sateen weave with one
or more extra risers
added. The weft face
may be smooth or
raised. See also
Beaverteen and
Fustian.
IMPREGNATED FABRIC fabrics A fabric in which
the interstices
between the yarns
are completely
filled with the
impregnating
compound
A fabric in which the
interstices between the
yarns are completely
filled with the
impregnating
compound throughout
the thickness of the
material, as
distinguished from
sized or coated
materials, where these
interstices are not
completely filled.
A fabric woven from
impregnated yarns, but
not impregnated after
weaving, is not an
impregnated fabric.
IMPREGNATED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn in which the
interstices are
filled with an
impregnating
compound.
A yarn in which the
interstices are filled
with an impregnating
compound.
IMPREGNATION processes,
operations
The process of
treating a fabric
with a functional
compound.
The process of treating
a fabric with a
functional compound.
IMPRESSION processes,
operations
Surface
unevenness
developed during
pressing
Surface unevenness
developed during
pressing, usually
around areas of extra
thickness, such as
pockets and seams
IMPRESSION MARK defects See Emboss mark. See Emboss mark.
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Word Category Short description Description
IN THE GRAY fabrics See Grey. See Grey.
IN THE GREASE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Wool as it is shorn
from the sheep;
contains grease
and other
impurities.
Wool as it is shorn
from the sheep;
contains grease and
other impurities.
IN THE GUM fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A natural, raw silk A natural, raw silk
which is stiff and dull
before the gum
covering is removed
by degumming.
INCHES PER RACK general Also called IPR. In
warp knitting, the
length of fabric in
one rack
measured on the
machine under
operating take-up
tension.
Also called IPR. In
warp knitting, the
length of fabric in one
rack measured on the
machine under
operating take-up
tension. The phrase
inches per rack is
recommended for use
in place of the word
quality, previously
used for this concept.
INDANTHRENE An original vat
dye; identified by
high
colourfastness.
An original vat dye;
identified by high
colourfastness.
INDIA BLANKET garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
All-wool, or
woollen filling
blankets woven
with characteristic
American Indian
designs
All-wool, or woollen
filling blankets woven
with characteristic
American Indian
designs. The genuine
Indian handmade
blanket is more of a
rug than a blanket.
Today most Indian
blankets are power
loom woven.
INDIA CHINTZ fabrics A heavy, strong
chintz with large
patterns used for
upholstery.
A heavy, strong chintz
with large patterns
used for upholstery.
INDIA PRINT fabrics Cotton fabric
printed with the
characteristic
native patterns in
form and content
Cotton fabric printed
with the characteristic
native patterns in form
and content, usually
hand blocked in
416
Word Category Short description Description
glowing oriental
colours.
INDIA TAPE accessories A plain weave,
narrow fabric,
made from cotton
A plain weave, narrow
fabric, made from
cotton using plied yarn
as warp and single
yarn in double pick
weft.
INDIAN ABUTILON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A fine lustrous
white fibre, yielded
from Abutilon
graveolens, found
in South Asia and
India, where it is
abundant.
A fine lustrous white
fibre, yielded from
Abutilon graveolens,
found in South Asia
and India, where it is
abundant. Not used
commercially, but
considered to have a
potential as a textile
material.
INDIAN COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A type of cotton
fibre.
A type of cotton fibre.
Average fibre length
15-20 mm.; usually
used only for coarse
counts.
INDIAN CRPE fabrics A cotton crpe of
rough unfinished
appearance, used
for blouses, mens
shirts.
A cotton crpe of
rough unfinished
appearance, used for
blouses, mens shirts.
INDIAN DHURRIE fabrics Se Dhurrie Se Dhurrie
INDIAN EMBROIDERY processes,
operations
Needlework done
by natives of India
in characteristic
oriental design.
Needlework done by
natives of India in
characteristic oriental
design. Cloth
embroidery, chain-
stitch embroidery,
quilting and cashmere
work are included in
this type of
needlework.
INDIAN SILK fabrics Hand-loomed silk
fabric, not
necessarily always
made in India.
Hand-loomed silk
fabric, not necessarily
always made in India.
Has a slightly wrinkled
impressed
appearance, but it is
crisp. Made in plain
colors. Used for saris,
417
Word Category Short description Description
evening wear and
some furnishing items
such as cushion
covers.
INDIGO Originally a natural
dyestuff extracted
from the stems
and leaves of
Indigofera tinctoria
and Indigofera anil
and woad plants.
Originally a natural
dyestuff extracted from
the stems and leaves
of Indigofera tinctoria
and Indigofera anil and
woad plants. A fast,
blue colour dye, it was
used for dyeing of
cotton, wool and silk.
Development of
synthetic indigo from
coal tar products and
other hydrocarbon
sources has made the
use of natural indigo
almost obsolete. Vat
dyes in big volume go
into the dyeing of blue
denim for work cloths.
See also Vat dyes.
INDIGOTIN The basic
colouring
substance of
indigo.
The basic colouring
substance of indigo.
Synthetic or artificial
indigo is almost pure
indigotin.
INDIRECT WARPING processes,
operations
The transference
of yarn from a
package creel
The transference of
yarn from a package
creel onto a swift from
which it is
subsequently wound
onto a beam.
INDIRECT YARN NUMBERING
SYSTEM
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A system that
expresses yarn
number in length
per unit mass or
the reciprocal of
linear density.
A system that
expresses yarn
number in length per
unit mass or the
reciprocal of linear
density.
INDUSTRIAL CONSUMER general See under
Consumer
See under Consumer
INDUSTRIAL NYLON fabrics Heavy-duty plain-
weave nylon fabric
made in a limited
range of colors
Heavy-duty plain-
weave nylon fabric
made in a limited
range of colors. Is
fairly stiff and does not
418
Word Category Short description Description
crease. Used for
overalls and protective
clothing, but is also
useful for the bags of
mens trouser pockets,
as it is extremely
hardwearing.
INDUSTRIAL TEXTILES fabrics Textile materials
and products
intended for end-
uses
1. Textile materials
and products intended
for end-uses other
than clothing,
household, furnishing
and floor covering,
where the fabric or
fibrous component is
selected principally
(but not exclu-sively)
for its performance
and properties as
opposed to its
aesthetic or decorative
characteristics.
2. A category of
technical textiles used
either as part of an
industrial process, or
incorporated into final
products.
INDUSTRIAL WIPING CLOTH fabrics An absorbent
fabric
An absorbent fabric
made for use in
cleaning machinery or
for other industrial and
commercial use.
INDUSTRIAL YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn composed
of continuous
filaments, usually
of high breaking
tenacity
A yarn composed of
continuous filaments,
usually of high
breaking tenacity,
produced with or
without twist, and
intended for
applications in which
functional properties
are of primary
importance; for
example in reinforcing
material in elastomeric
products (tyres, hose,
belting), in protective
419
Word Category Short description Description
coverings, and in
cordage and webbing
etc
INDUSTRY PRODUCTS garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Products such as
furniture, pillows,
comforters,
sleeping bags, and
wearing apparel
Products such as
furniture, pillows,
comforters, sleeping
bags, and wearing
apparel which are
wholly or partially filled
with feathers or down
intended for use in the
manufacture of such
prod-ucts.
INFLAMMABLE TEXTLE general Use preferred term
Flammable textile.
Use preferred term
Flammable textile.
INFORMATIVE LABEL general Factual
information about
the goods or
garment
Factual information
about the goods or
garment (such as fibre
content, construction,
performance and care)
presented to the buyer
on hang-tag or woven
or printed label.
INFRARED RADIATION general Radiant energy Radiant energy for
which the wavelengths
of the monochromatic
components are
greater than those for
visible radiation and
less than about 1 mm.
INGRAIN CARPET garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A reversible
coarse carpeting
woven on a
jacquard loom
accommodating up
to six coloured
weft threads.
A reversible coarse
carpeting woven on a
jacquard loom
accommodating up to
six coloured weft
threads. It may be two-
ply Kidderminister
carpet or three-ply
Scotch carpet..
INGRAIN DYE A colourant, which
is formed, in situ,
in the substrate by
the development
and coupling of
one or more
intermediate
compounds.
A colourant, which is
formed, in situ, in the
substrate by the
development and
coupling of one or
more intermediate
compounds. The term
was originally used for
colorants obtained
420
Word Category Short description Description
from oxidation bases
and by azoic
techniques, but is now
reserved for other
types of colorant
formed in situ, e.g. In-
grain dyes bearing the
Alcian and Phthalogen
trade marks. These
are limited ranges
noted for particularly
for their unique
turquoise colour,
provided by the
remarkably stable
copper phthlocyanine
chromophore. See
Onium dye.
INGRAIN YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Yarn, spun from a
mixture of fibres of
different colours
1. Yarn, spun from a
mixture of fibres of
different colours,
where the mixing of
coloured fibres is
carried out at an early
stage. See also Colour
terms and Worsted.
2. Filament yarn,
composed of filaments
of different colours, the
ingrain effect being
produced by the
random exposure of
the differently coloured
filaments at the yarn
surface.
INHERENT FLAME-
RESISTANCE
general Flame resistance
that derives from
an essential
characteristic of
the fibre
Flame resistance that
derives from an
essential characteristic
of the fibre from which
the textile is made.
(Compare Flame
resistance.)
INHERENTLY FLAME-
RESISTANT
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibre inherently
having the
property of flame-
resistance.
Fibre inherently having
the property of flame-
resistance.
INHIBITOR Usually refers to
chemical agent
Usually refers to
chemical agent applied
421
Word Category Short description Description
applied to fabric,
especially of
acetate, to inhibit
gas fading.
to fabric, especially of
acetate, to inhibit gas
fading.
INKING processes,
operations
A process of
dyeing or touching
up spots in a fabric
A process of dyeing or
touching up spots in a
fabric which otherwise
would be a defect. See
Speck dyeing.
INKLE accessories An old term for
narrow fabric.
An old term for narrow
fabric.
INKLE LOOM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A simple form of
narrow hand loom.
A simple form of
narrow hand loom. It
consists of a frame
with pegs which hold a
characteristically
narrow continuous
warp, a simple device
for making two sheds,
and an adjustable peg
to control warp
tension.
INLAY garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
An extra seam
allowance inside
the garment
An extra seam
allowance inside the
garment, for letting out
if required, or for
strength at a given
position.
INLAY PRINTING processes,
operations
Embossing and
printing are
combined in this
process.
Embossing and
printing are combined
in this process. The
embossed fabric is
printed in the
depressions in the
fabric. Also see Embo
printing
INORGANIC FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibre spun from
inorganic material,
Fibre spun from
inorganic material, e.g.
Aluminium silicate is
an inorganic material
and fibres spun from it
are inorganic fibres
INSECT RESISTANCE general The capability to
impede damage
by insects.
The capability to
impede damage by
insects.
INSECT SCREENING fabrics A woven netting
fabric of coated
A woven netting fabric
of coated glass yarn
422
Word Category Short description Description
glass yarn having a mesh size of
12 by 12 or greater.
INSERTED SEAM seams,
stitches
A seam in which a
single or number
of layers of fabric
is inserted
between two
others which are
turned in.
A seam in which a
single or number of
layers of fabric is
inserted between two
others which are
turned in. The
complete assembly is
sewn in one operation.
Layer
INSERTED SELVEDGE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under
Selvedge.
See under Selvedge.
INSERTION fabrics,
accessories
Lace, embroidey
or other
needlework
Lace, embroidey or
other needlework
inserted and sewn
between two cut edges
of fabric for
ornamental purposes.
See also Insertion
lace.
INSERTION BANDED LACES accessories See under Banded
laces.
See under Banded
laces.
INSERTION BRAID accessories A piping made by
a braiding machine
A piping made by a
braiding machine
which produces a flat
and tubular braid on
combination.
INSERTION LACE fabrics Usually narrow
and often with slits
for threading
ribbon through
Usually narrow and
often with slits for
threading ribbon
through, but it always
has two straight
edges. It is inserted as
decoration, and the
backing fabric is
usually cut away
afterwards.
INSIDE SEAM seams,
stitches
A seam formed in
which the
completed seam
allowance is
located on the
interior of the
object, usually on
the backside of the
A seam formed in
which the completed
seam allowance is
located on the interior
of the object, usually
on the backside of the
fabric. Examples of
inside seams include
423
Word Category Short description Description
fabric Double-welt seam,
French seam, lapped
seams, mock French
seams, slot seams,
tucked seams, and
welt seams.
(Compare Outside
seam.)
INSIDE-LEG LENGTH garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related
term.
Garment-related term.
See under Garment
sizing system.
INSOLUBLE SOIL defects Impurity or
contamination,
especially carbon
particles, that may
become
embedded in the
fibres.
Impurity or
contamination,
especially carbon
particles, that may
become embedded in
the fibres. Such
impurities are almost
impossible to remove
in dry cleaning. See
also Solvent insoluble
soil.
INSOLUBLIZING processes,
operations
A process referring
to the coupling of
dyes
A process referring to
the coupling of dyes,
e.g. mordant, to make
man-made fibres
resistant to or
insoluble to leaching.
INSPECTION processes,
operations
Activity such as
measuring,
examining, testing,
gauging one or
more
characteristics of a
product or service
Activity such as
measuring, examining,
testing, gauging one or
more characteristics of
a product or service
and comparing these
with specified
requirements to
determine conformity.
INSTITUTIONAL CONSUMER general See under
Consumer.
See under Consumer.
INSTRON TENSILE TESTER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
An electronic
testing equipment
for a broad range
of materials under
varied testing
conditions.
An electronic testing
equipment for a broad
range of materials
under varied testing
conditions. It is used to
measure and chart
load elongation
properties of fibres,
yarns, fabrics,
424
Word Category Short description Description
webbings, etc. It is
also used to measure
compression and tear-
resistance.
INSULATING TAPE accessories A narrow fabric
used in the
manufacture of
electrical
equipment.
A narrow fabric used in
the manufacture of
electrical equipment.
INSULATION FINISH processes,
operations
Curtain and lining
fabrics can have
fine metallic
powder bonded to
the surface.
Curtain and lining
fabrics can have fine
metallic powder
bonded to the surface.
In the summer, heat
from the sun is
reflected away from
the room or body; in
the winter loss of heat
to the outside is pre-
vented
INSULATION TAPE fabrics A woven fabric,
impregnated with a
non-conducting
adhesive
A woven fabric,
impregnated with a
non-conducting
adhesive, which is
then cut into strips.
INTAGLIO apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In printing, a
design or line cut
into a surface of
printing cylinder
In printing, a design or
line cut into a surface
of printing cylinder so
as to form a hollow or
indent.
INTANGLIO apparatus,
equipage,
tools,
fabrics
Engraving in which
design to be
printed is cut
below surface of
printing cylinder.
1. Engraving in which
design to be printed is
cut below surface of
printing cylinder.
2. Also prints made
from such rolls.
INTARSIA fabrics,
accessories
A knitted fabric in
which there are
solid areas of
colour patterning.
1. A knitted fabric in
which there are solid
areas of colour
patterning. The
characteristic of such
ar-eas is that they
consist only of the yarn
forming them; no other
colored yarn passes
either through them or
behind them. J oins
between the areas of
425
Word Category Short description Description
color are formed either
by entwining the sinker
loops of adjacent
areas or by plating
adjacent area loops.
2. A motif design in
stitch and/or colour.
INTEGRAL GARMENT garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
All knitted
garments are
classified into four
classes according
to general
production
methods; Fully cut,
Stitch shaped cut,
Fully fashioned
and Integral.
All knitted garments
are classified into four
classes according to
general production
methods; Fully cut,
Stitch shaped cut,
Fully fashioned and
Integral.
Integral garments (also
known as Integrally
knitted garments) is
weft knitted garments,
so con-structed, that
they require little or no
cutting, and little or no
seaming operations to
finish them.
Integrally knitted
garments are those
that are essentially
knitted in one piece
with little or no seam.
The archetypal
example is the beret,
which is knitted
sequentially in a series
of triangles, leaving
the beginning and the
end to be joined into a
three dimensional
shape. This principle
has also been used to
make skirts and
jumpers and is used to
produce a large
proportion of ladies
and gents millinery.
Another integral
garment using a
combination of tubular
knitting and shaping is
the mens sock or half
426
Word Category Short description Description
hose. To shape the
heel and toe of a sock,
pouches are formed
from extra rows of
knitting.
The third common type
of integral garment
consists principally of
joined tubes - the
glove. Tubes are
constructed for each of
the digits, sometimes
with shaped tips, and
merge together into
the palm portion, (also
a tube). With some
latest model machines,
it is now possible to
knit such gloves, fully
automatically with no
subsequent making up
procedures.
The general
production sequence
of integral garment
(e.g. Half hose) is:
Knit half hose

Seam toes

Wet finish, scour, dye

Examine and mend

Finish press
Developmental work is
fast progressing on
integral garment
manufacturing of
upper body outerwear
apparels too. The main
advantages of integral
concepts are savings
in both raw material
and labour costs at the
expense of lower
machine output. The
electronic V-bed
knitting machines in
427
Word Category Short description Description
their pres-ent state of
development, with
presser foot or holding
sinkers, are easily
capable of producing
gar-ments in all the
garment categories.
INTEGRAL KNITTED
GARMENTS
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See Integral
garments
See Integral garments
INTEGRATED MILL general A textile mill which
has a complete
series of
operations to
produce fabric
from the fibrous
raw material.
A textile mill which has
a complete series of
operations to produce
fabric from the fibrous
raw material.
INTEGUMENT general In sericulture,
refers to the
covering of the
silkworms body.
In sericulture, refers to
the covering of the
silkworms body.
INTERCHANGING DOUBLE
CLOTH
fabrics See under Double
cloth.
See under Double
cloth.
INTERFACING fabrics Woven or non-
woven fabrics
used to give body
to certain areas of
a garment.
Woven or non-woven
fabrics used to give
body to certain areas
of a garment. It adds
to the outward
appearance of the
garment if some areas
are reinforced, e.g.
collars, buttoned
openings, cuffs, pocket
flaps, and this
structuring also makes
the garment last
longer. Interfacing has
always been a vital
and integral part of
tailoring, but until
comparatively recently
was regarded as less
important in
dressmaking. Now,
however, a very wide
range of types and
weights of interfacing
is available, so it is not
428
Word Category Short description Description
difficult to interface
correctly and improve
the garment. Choice
depends entirely on
the fabric being sewn.
In general, the
interfacing used in
dressmaking should
be lighter and softer
than the fab-ric,
otherwise the
interfacing will take
over and make the
area where it is used
to appear different.
See Non-woven
canvas, Woven
canvas, Iron-on
canvas.
INTERLACED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Intermingled
yarn.
See Intermingled yarn.
INTERLINING accessories Any textile which is
intended for
incorporation into
an article of
wearing apparel
Any textile which is
intended for
incorporation into an
article of wearing
apparel as a layer
between an outer shell
and the ordinary inner
lining, for shape
retention, strength,
warmth or bulk.
INTERLOCK fabrics A double-faced rib-
based structure
consisting of two
1x1 rib fabrics
joined by
interlocking sinker
loops, it is made
on machines
equipped with two
sets of opposed
needles
A double-faced rib-
based structure
consisting of two 1x1
rib fabrics joined by
interlocking sinker
loops, it is made on
machines equipped
with two sets of
opposed needles.
Originally knitted from
cotton and used for
underwear, but now is
knitted from various
materials and used for
a variety of purposes,
including outerwear.
429
Word Category Short description Description
INTERLOCK GAITING processes,
operations
See under Gating. See under Gating.
INTERLOCK STITCHES seams,
stitches
A versatile group
of stitch types
forming flat seams.
A versatile group of
stitch types forming flat
seams. Two to four
needle thread chain
stitching in a parallel
formation is joined
together on one side of
the fabric by
interlooping with a
single thread. The
other side of the
stitching may also be
joined by one or more
threads known as
covering threads. The
classification of such
seams is confused, in
that they fall into two
groups within the
BS/ISO system. Same
as Multithread chain
stitches, Covering
stitches.
INTERMEDIATE COTTONS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
An intermediate
classification for
cotton staple
between short and
long staple
(actually
overlapped by
both).
An intermediate
classification for cotton
staple between short
and long staple
(actually overlapped
by both). Staple
lengths of
intermediates range
from 1.27 to 3.33 cm.
INTERMEDIATES fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Yarn
intermediates.
See Yarn
intermediates.
INTERMINGLED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Sometimes called
Interlaced yarn. A
multifilament yarn
in which cohesion
is imparted to the
filament bundle by
entwining the
filaments instead
of or in addition to
twisting.
Sometimes called
Interlaced yarn. A
multifilament yarn in
which cohesion is
imparted to the
filament bundle by
entwining the filaments
instead of or in
addition to twisting.
The effect is usually
achieved by passing
430
Word Category Short description Description
the yarn under light
tension through the
turbulent zone of an
air-jet.
Intermingling should
be distinguished from
air-texturing in which a
much higher level of
entangle-ment is
achieved with the
objective of producing
texture or bulk.
INTERMINGLING J ET apparatus,
equipage,
tools
An air-operated
device used as an
ancillary to some
processes of yarn
extrusion, of
drawing and of
texturing
An air-operated device
used as an ancillary to
some processes of
yarn extrusion, of
drawing and of
texturing to induce
intermingling of
filaments and hence
yarn coherence. See
also Intermingled yarn
INTERNATIONAL FIBRE
DESCRIPTION
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Table:
International fabric
description.
See Table:
International fabric
description.
INTERNATIONAL UNIT
SYSTEM (SI)
general To simplify
international co-
operation in all
sectors of industry
and commerce,
the SI unit system
(SI =Systeme
International d
Unites) was
established.
To simplify
international co-
operation in all sectors
of industry and
commerce, the SI unit
system (SI =Systeme
International d Unites)
was established. The
SI is a rationalized
selection of units in the
metric system which
individually are not
new and all other units
are derived from them.
Few changes were
necessary for
countries that use the
metric system,
nevertheless some
changes were
necessary to comply to
the international
agreed usage of SI.
431
Word Category Short description Description
The international
system is based on 7
base units. All other
units are derived from
these units.
Conversion factors are
1 or decimal multiples
and sub-multiples of
10. A system of
prefixes denoting
decimal multiples and
sub-multiples of the
base units has been
established. See
Tables: International
unit system (SI) Base
units and Derived
units, and Table of SI
units used in the textile
industry
INTERNATIONALGREYSCALE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A comparative
standard) scale
used to rate
degrees of colour
A comparative
standard) scale used
to rate degrees of
colour fading from 5
(negligible or no-
change) to 1 (severe
change).
INTERWEOVEN YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Same as
Interlaced yarn
Same as Interlaced
yarn
INTIMATE BLEND processes,
operations
Combining two or
more different fibre
types
Combining two or
more different fibre
types into a uniform
mixture before the
single yarn is spun.
INTRINSIC CLO general See Clo. See Clo.
INTURNED WELT garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under Welt. See under Welt.
INVISIBLE WASTE general Weight loss due to
dust, moisture,
loose fibres, etc.,
carried away by
the air.
Weight loss due to
dust, moisture, loose
fibres, etc., carried
away by the air.
INVOICE MASS general The mass,
however
determined, of a
The mass, however
determined, of a
consignment of a
432
Word Category Short description Description
consignment of a
textile material
textile material, which
is declared on the
invoice. It is usually
numerically equivalent
to the commercial
mass
INWROUGHT fabrics A decoration,
design or pattern
worked into a
fabric so as to be a
part of the cloth
A decoration, design
or pattern worked into
a fabric so as to be a
part of the cloth, e.g.
Tapestry, Brocade,
Damask, Brocatelle.
IONOMER general A polymer
characterized by
covalent bonds
A polymer
characterized by
covalent bonds
between the
constituents of the
long chain molecules
and ionic bonds
between the chains.
IPR general See Inches per
rack
See Inches per rack
IRIDESCENT EFFECT fabrics See Inches per
rack
See Inches per rack
IRIDESCENT FABRIC fabrics A fabric with
changeable colour
or shot effects.
A fabric with
changeable colour or
shot effects. May be
the result of dye, finish
or weave.
IRISH FINISH fabrics A finish given to
cotton fabric to
imitate linen.
A finish given to cotton
fabric to imitate linen.
IRISH LACE fabrics Term to describe a
heavy crochet lace
with looped edges.
Term to describe a
heavy crochet lace
with looped edges.
Made in Ireland;
Carrickmacross and
Limerick are two
places of origin. See
also Limerick lace.
IRISH LAWN fabrics A lawn fabric
produced from fine
linen yarns.
A lawn fabric produced
from fine linen yarns.
IRISH LINEN fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
YARN. 100 % flax
yarn spun in
Ireland
1. YARN. 100 % flax
yarn spun in Ireland.
2. FABRIC. Fine
quality linen fabric
433
Word Category Short description Description
woven in Ireland from
Irish linen yarn. Used
for handkerchiefs and
table linen; coarser
grades used for tea
towels and glass
clothes.
IRISH POPLIN fabrics A poplin made
from a dyed pure
silk organzine
warp and a three-
fold genapped fine
worsted weft.
A poplin made from a
dyed pure silk
organzine warp and a
three-fold genapped
fine worsted weft. It is
a silk-face and silk-
back fabric, the weft
being completely
covered by the warp.
The fabric is usually
hand-woven and is
frequently given a
moir finish.
IRISH TWEED fabrics White warp and
dark shade weft of
blue, grey, brown,
or black feature
this popular,
rugged menswear
fabric
White warp and dark
shade weft of blue,
grey, brown, or black
feature this popular,
rugged menswear
fabric. Used for suiting
and coating.
IRON LIQUOR See Acetate of
iron.
See Acetate of iron.
IRON YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A smooth, stiff,
cotton yarn which
has been starched
and glazed
A smooth, stiff, cotton
yarn which has been
starched and glazed.
Generally either white
or black; mainly used
for linings and hat
shapes.
IRON-ON CANVAS
INTERFACINGS
accessories An iron-on woven
canvas does not
give the shaping
advantages of the
sew-in varieties.
An iron-on woven
canvas does not give
the shaping
advantages of the
sew-in varieties.
However, it is quick to
use and is effective on
flat areas such as coat
fronts, pocket flaps,
hemlines (where
added body is
needed.), etc.
434
Word Category Short description Description
Selection to be
according to the
weight of fabric being
used:
1. A thick, soft canvas
made from a mixture
of linen and cotton
2. A very soft cotton
canvas that would be
suitable for the
lightweight clothes
used for womens
coats and jackets.
IRON-ON COTTON accessories Soft cotton fabric,
almost like muslin,
with adhesive
granules on the
wrong side
Soft cotton fabric,
almost like muslin, with
adhesive granules on
the wrong side. It
would add slight
stiffness to soft fabrics.
Not cheap.
IRONING processes,
operations
A method of
pressing using a
heated hand iron
A method of pressing
using a heated hand
iron, sometimes
together with moisture
or steam, and a gliding
motion. See also
Pressing.
IRONING +PRESSING OF
TEXTILE
processes,
operations
A process carried
out on a textile
article to restore its
shape and
appearance
A process carried out
on a textile article to
restore its shape and
appearance, by means
of an appro-priate
appliance using heat
and pressure
IRONPROOFING processes,
operations
A treatment with
caustic soda given
to certain acetate
fabrics.
A treatment with
caustic soda given to
certain acetate fabrics.
By saponifying the
surface of the cloth,
the material becomes
more resistant to
damage from high
temperatures of
pressing irons. See
Saponification.
IRREGULAR SATIN WEAVE fabrics A variation of the
satin weave
A variation of the satin
weave in which the
interlacings are not on
435
Word Category Short description Description
the regular
arrangement of the
normal satin weave
IRREGULARS defects Any article such as
hosiery, sheets,
and towels, which
contains slight
imperfections
Any article such as
hosiery, sheets, and
towels, which contains
slight imperfections
that prevent it from
being classed as first
quality.
IRRIGATED COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Cotton produced in
the arid areas by
irrigation.
Cotton produced in the
arid areas by irrigation.
The physical
properties are different
from rain grown
cottons of the same
variety, which may
affect dyeing
properties.
ISLANDS IN THE SEA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under
Bicomponent
fibres.
See under
Bicomponent fibres.
ITALIAN HEMSTITCHING seams,
stitches
A drawn fabric
stitch worked with
alternating vertical
and horizontal
stitches.
1. A drawn fabric stitch
worked with alternating
vertical and horizontal
stitches. A line is
formed similar to the
blanketstitch, but with
openwork effect. May
be used like machine
hemstitching to finish
seams on sheer cloths
to give a flat, strong,
decorative effect.
2.A stitch used for
embroidering linen or
other fabrics with
counted threads for
making lines or for
filling.
ITALIAN SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Raw silk of good
grade
Raw silk of good
grade. It is strong,
elastic, easily
processed and has no
imperfections. The
boiled-off percentage
is high. Used for
dresses, knit goods,
436
Word Category Short description Description
high quality hosiery,
underwear and tricot.
ITARSI
ITARSI
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A term used for
Sunn.
A term used for Sunn.

J

Word Category Short description Description
J -BOX apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A large J -shaped vessel or
structure used for the
continuous steaming or
wet processing of textiles.
A large J -shaped vessel or
structure used for the
continuous steaming or wet
processing of textiles. The
material enters the top of the
long limb of the J , is stored
for a time, and withdrawn
through the short limb.
J -CUT defects Uneven cutting of the pile
loops in tufted carpets
Uneven cutting of the pile
loops in tufted carpets
caused by poor adjustment
of knives and hooks or
excessive tension.
J -SCRAY apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A J -shaped trough or
vessel for the processing
of textiles from one
process to another.
A J -shaped trough or vessel
for the processing of textiles
from one process to another.
The long limb of the J forms
an inclined plane on which
the material accumulates
during the dwell period.
J ACKET garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A textile product, woven or
felted into tubular or
sleeve form
A textile product, woven or
felted into tubular or sleeve
form, ready for covering and
shrinking on a machine roll.
J ACONET fabrics Thin, plain-weave cotton
fabric, heavier than
cambric but similar in type,
it is glazed on the right
side to produce a high
luster
Thin, plain-weave cotton
fabric, heavier than cambric
but similar in type, it is
glazed on the right side to
produce a high luster. Can
be plain or have a stripe or
check pattern. May now
contain a proportion of
polyester fibre. Used for
mens shirts, childrens
clothes and pajamas.
J ACQMAR fabrics A very sheer, fine worsted A very sheer, fine worsted
437
Word Category Short description Description
fabric. fabric. Draping quality similar
to silk.
J ACQUARD fabrics The name is associated
with the production of
elaborate figured design
fabrics with complex
patterns and large repeats
containing hundreds or
even thousands of
different interlacings.
The name is associated with
the production of elaborate
figured design fabrics with
complex patterns and large
repeats containing hundreds
or even thousands of
different interlacings.
J acquard weaving is an
intricate method which uses
a patterning mechanism
which gives individual control
of up to several hundred
warp threads on the loom
using punched cards to
control the movement of
individual groups of warp
ends.
J acquards are made from
almost any fibre and both
self-colour and multi-colour
designs are popular. Fabrics
fray readily, more so if made
from silk or other slippery
fibres. As J acquard refers to
the weave, all fabrics should
have some other notation,
e.g. Cotton jacquard, Silk
jacquard, etc
J ACQUARD
CARD
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A punched card used to
control a jacquard
mechanism
A punched card used to
control a jacquard
mechanism. A series of such
cards strung together control
the production of the
required pattern. In many
applications jacquards are
now controlled by endless
paper or an electronic store
instead of cards
J ACQUARD
DRILL
fabrics A heavy drill fabric made
with contrasting colours in
warp and filling.
A heavy drill fabric made with
contrasting colours in warp
and filling.
J ACQUARD
KNIT
fabrics Sectional patterns or all-
over design patterns in
colour and texture
produced on knitting
machines.
Sectional patterns or all-over
design patterns in colour and
texture produced on knitting
machines.
438
Word Category Short description Description
J ACQUARD
LOOM
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A typical J acquard
machine would have a
number of hooks
arranged in rows.
Named after its inventor
J oseph J acquard; at the time
of its introduction it was
almost a revolution in the
weaving industry, as it was a
loom with tremendously
improved figuring capacity.
A typical J acquard machine
would have a number of
hooks arranged in rows.
This give individual control of
a number of warp yarns in a
repeat and they can be lifted
in any required sequence of
in-terlacings. The interlacings
are produced by using
punched cards, one card for
each weft yarn in-serted, and
these cards are laced
together in a continuous
loop. The cards punched in a
separate ma-chine in
accordance with the
interlacings of the design.
Larger machines, or a
number of machines linked
together on the same loom,
can extend the available
number of interlacings into
thousands.
The selection and control of
machine movements by the
use of a continuous pattern
chain of some kind has led to
the use of the name
J acquard in other forms of
fabric production, such as
knitting and embroidery.
Magnetic tapes, micro chips
and other electronic forms of
control represent the up-
dating of this remarkable
invention.
J ACQUARD
MECHANISM
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
IN WEAVING. A shedding
mechanism, attached to a
loom
1. IN WEAVING. A shedding
mechanism, attached to a
loom, that gives individual
control of upto several
hundred warp threads and
thus enables large figured
439
Word Category Short description Description
designs to be produced.
2. IN KNITTING. A term in
general use in knitting
industry, applied to
mechanisms for the selection
of knitting elements.
J ACQUARD
WEAVE
fabrics Elaborate figured weave
produced on the J acquard
loom.
Elaborate figured weave
produced on the J acquard
loom. The weave find usage
mainly in fabrics like
brocades, tapestries,
damasks and
J AFFER fabrics A plain weave cotton
fabric
A plain weave cotton fabric
with warp and weft in
different colours producing a
shot effect.
J AGO fabrics A type of linen fabric A type of linen fabric
J AIPUR PRINT fabrics See J eypore print See J eypore print
J AMAICA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A type of raw cotton from
the West Indies
A type of raw cotton from the
West Indies
J AMAVAR fabrics A plain or twill weave
cashmere wool fabric
made in Kashmir.
An Indian term used to
describe:
1. A plain or twill weave
cashmere wool fabric made
in Kashmir.
b. A wide-striped, coarse
woollen shawl made chiefly
in Punjab, India
J AMDANEE fabrics A group of costly, fine
cotton muslins in
elaborate woven designs
A group of costly, fine cotton
muslins in elaborate woven
designs, which were made
on handlooms in Dacca,
Bangladesh. The modern
counterpart is called J andari
J AMKALAM fabrics A coarse cotton rug
without pile, made of
native cotton in India.
A coarse cotton rug without
pile, made of native cotton in
India.
J AMMED fabrics A fabric in which the ends
are jammed so closely
together that no more
could be fitted in
A fabric in which the ends
are jammed so closely
together that no more could
be fitted in; a jammed fabric
is usually very stiff.
J ANDARI fabrics See J amdanee See J amdanee
J ANUS CLOTH fabrics A double-faced worsted
fabric with a different
colour on each side.
A double-faced worsted
fabric with a different colour
on each side.
440
Word Category Short description Description
J AP SILK fabrics Also called China Silk. Also called China Silk. Thin,
almost papery silk fabric, in
plain weave and in plain
colors, made in Northern
China. Very light and
slippery. Used mainly for
lining lightweight garments.
Do not find much use in
outer clothes, due to its
insufficient weight and
durability.
J APONAIS fabrics A very light weight silk
poplin from several
qualities of gray yarns
A very light weight silk poplin
from several qualities of gray
yarns. Used for summer
dresses, underwear, etc. See
Helvetia.
J APPE fabrics A fine plain weave fabric
woven from continuous
filament yarns
A fine plain weave fabric
woven from continuous
filament yarns, originally silk,
and of approximately square
construction
J ASP fabrics Also called J asper. Also called J asper.
Hardwearing fabric having a
shaded appearance created
by a warp thread jasp yarn
colour pattern. Made of
either multicolored threads or
different shades of one color.
Small matching dots are
sometimes woven into the
fabric. Used for curtains,
chaircovers, bedspreads.
J ASP
CARPET
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Carpet having a flame-like
regular pattern
Carpet having a flame-like
regular pattern. It was
traditionally produced by
using pile yarn dip-dyed in
hanks to two tones of the
same colour or two different
colours, in a fixed proportion
of the lengths of the hanks in
any one lot.
J ASP YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A filament yarn that has
the appearance of being,
but is not, made of two
differently coloured yarns
folded together.
A filament yarn that has the
appearance of being, but is
not, made of two differently
coloured yarns folded
together. It is made by
texturing together two
continuous filament yarns or
441
Word Category Short description Description
different chemical
composition, e.g. nylon and
polyester, and them dyeing
only one of the two
components.
J ASPER fabrics See J asp. See J asp.
J AVA fabrics A cotton fabric with red,
yellow and white stripes
on red ground.
A cotton fabric with red,
yellow and white stripes on
red ground. Used mainly by
the native women I East
Africa
J EAN fabrics Very hardwearing cotton
fabric, similar to denim-
drill, but usually softer,
lighter and finer to handle
Very hardwearing cotton
fabric, similar to denim-drill,
but usually softer, lighter and
finer to handle. Woven in 2/1
twill with a warp face (see
below) showing a fairly steep
twill, the warp being more
closely set than the weft
Made in plain colors only,
sometimes in herringbone
weave. Originally made for
protective clothing and lining,
but now widely adapted for
leisurewear also in a wide
range of colors. Used for
overalls, dungarees,
childrens clothes, etc
J EANETTE fabrics Lighter weight jean fabrics
are sometimes called
jeanette
Lighter weight jean fabrics
are sometimes called
jeanette. These are mostly
used for linings.
J EDIM fabrics See Dsedim. See Dsedim.
J ENKINS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A commercial variety of
early maturing, prolific
American cotton
A commercial variety of early
maturing, prolific American
cotton with staple
approximately 2.22 to 2.54
cm long.
J ERK-BACK defects See J erk-in. See J erk-in.
J ERK-IN defects Also called Lash-in, J erk-
back, Pull-in. Fabric
defect.
Also called Lash-in, J erk-
back, Pull-in. Fabric defect. It
is caused by an extra weft
yarn being jerked by the
shuttle and dragged into the
shed with the regular pick
part way into the fabric, i.e.
extending only part of the
442
Word Category Short description Description
way across the cloth. The
defect will appear at the
selvage. Depending on how
close the patterns are cut to
the selvedge will determine
whether the defect is major
or minor. (Compare Double
pick.)
J ERSEY fabrics A generic term applied to
describe warp or weft
knitted piece goods,
usually stocking stitch,
made from any fibre,
including cotton, wool, silk,
nylon acetate, triacetate,
polyester, acrylic, modal. It
has give and elasticity
and is comfortable to
wear.
A generic term applied to
describe warp or weft knitted
piece goods, usually stocking
stitch, made from any fibre,
including cotton, wool, silk,
nylon acetate, triacetate,
polyester, acrylic, modal. It
has give and elasticity and
is comfortable to wear. This
term has not, as yet, been
precisely defined and can
quite literally be applied to
almost any kind of knitted
fabric. However, in general,
the terms single jersey, and
double jersey are commonly
used.
Single jersey: Refers to a
plain or modified plain knitted
fabric (usually weft knitted)
used as piece goods, made
in a machine having one set
of needles. In consequence
the fabric is simple in
structure and therefore not
very stable. Bonding
techniques are used as a
means of adding stability to
single jersey. Used as piece
goods. Being simple in
structure single jersey is
cheaply and quickly made.
Double jersey: Is taken to
mean a fabric knitted on a
machine with two sets of
needles and the fab-ric can
be knitted on a machine with
two sets of needles and the
fabric can be knitted on the
inter-lock principle and
patterns can be formed by
443
Word Category Short description Description
interchanging yarns between
face and back needles. Rib
weft knitted fabric or modified
rib weft knitted fabric, used
as piece goods.
These fabrics are more
stable than single jersey
because yarns are not
required to show on the face
are knitted into the back thus
avoiding long floats and
loose structurre. They are
slower to make and more
expensive than single jersey
fabrics.
J ERSEY
GABARDINE
fabrics Although Gabardine is
strictly speaking a woven
cloth, many of the old
terms have to be used to
de-scribe new-effect
fabrics
Although Gabardine is strictly
speaking a woven cloth,
many of the old terms have
to be used to de-scribe new-
effect fabrics. J ersey
gabardine is a twill-effect
closely knitted polyester. It is
usually in plain colors. Used
for trousers, jackets, etc.
J ERSEY
VELOUR
fabrics Plush surfaced, knit fabric
with attractive velvety
appearance. At the back it
is a smooth knit fairly
stable fabric, while the pile
on the right side is short
and soft
Plush surfaced, knit fabric
with attractive velvety
appearance. At the back it is
a smooth knit fairly stable
fabric, while the pile on the
right side is short and soft.
Fibre used is polyester with
viscose pile. Made in
attractive plain colours. Used
for soft dresses, blouses
tops, jump suits, T-shirts, etc.
See Pile knit.
J ET garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A narrow strip of fabric,
usually cut warpwise,
sewn parallel to the pocket
opening and turned over
the pocket mouth edge
A narrow strip of fabric,
usually cut warpwise, sewn
parallel to the pocket
opening and turned over the
pocket mouth edge
J ET LOOM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A shuttleless loom A shuttleless loom that
carries the weft yarns
through the shed by the use
of a water jet. See also
Shuttleless loomS
J ET PRINTING processes,
operations
See Polychromatic
printing.
See Polychromatic printing.
444
Word Category Short description Description
J ET SPINNING processes,
operations
See Air-jet spinning. See Air-jet spinning.
J ET-DYEING
MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A machine for dyeing
fabric in rope form
1. A machine for dyeing
fabric in rope form in which
the fabric is carried through a
narrow throat by dye-liquor
circulated at high velocity.
2. A machine for dyeing
garments in which garments
are circulated by jets of liquid
rather than by mechanical
means.
J ETTED
POCKET
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A pocket-mouth on which
the edges are finished by
the application of jettings.
A pocket-mouth on which the
edges are finished by the
application of jettings.
J ETTING garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Se J et. Se J et.
J EYPORE
PRINT
fabrics See J aipur print See J aipur print
J IG apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Also called J igger. Also called J igger. A
machine in which fabric in
open width is transferred
repeatedly back and forth
from one roller to another
and passes each time
through the relatively small
volume of a dyebath or other
liquid. J igs are usually used
for dyeing, scouring,
bleaching and finishing.
J IGGER garments,
made-ups,
assemblies,
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A style of ladys short,
loose jacket.
1. A style of ladys short,
loose jacket.
2. The button on the inside of
a double-breasted coat
(usually sewn with a long
shank).
3. See J ig.
J IGGER
STENTER
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A stenter in which a to-
and-fro longitudinal motion
can be given to the side
frame carrying the clip
chain while the fabric is
moved forward.
A stenter in which a to-and-
fro longitudinal motion can
be given to the side frame
carrying the clip chain while
the fabric is moved forward.
The two side frames are
linked, one moving forward
while the other moves back
and vice versa to impart a
445
Word Category Short description Description
swinging motion to the fabric.
This device is used in
finishing to reduce inter yarn
bonding to produce a softer
fabric
J OB FINISHER general See Commision finisher See Commision finisher
J OCKEY
CLOTH
fabrics A high-grade weft-faced
fabric made with two ply
silk in the warp and single
botany wool weft, in a two
up, one down twill weave.
A high-grade weft-faced
fabric made with two ply silk
in the warp and single botany
wool weft, in a two up, one
down twill weave. The weft is
packed in with substantially
more picks than ends.
J OCKEY
SATIN
fabrics See Slipper satin. See Slipper satin.
J OINING LINE general See Seam. See Seam.
J OSEPHINE
TRICOT
fabrics A very open, crochet
fabric
A very open, crochet fabric
consisting of tightly
crocheted rows connected at
intervals by double yarns
J OUY PRINT processes,
operations
Cotton or linen fabric
printed with modern
reproductions of 18th
century French prints.
Cotton or linen fabric printed
with modern reproductions of
18th century French prints.
Often monotone landscapes
or figure groups in red or
blue on light or white
grounds. Also called Toile de
jouy.
J UGAN NATH fabrics A coarse longcloth made
in the Kota District, India.
A coarse longcloth made in
the Kota District, India. Used
mainly for turbans and other
wearing apparel.
J UMBO CORD fabrics See under Corduroy. See under Corduroy.
J UMEL
COTTON
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A perennial tree cotton. A perennial tree cotton. The
species is uncertain, with
Gossypium brasilense and
Gossypium vitifolium
suggested.
J UMPER
UNDERPRESS
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A type of underpressing
machine, which has a
steam heated buck and an
iron which is mounted on
the end of a swinging arm
(jointed or straight).
A type of underpressing
machine, which has a steam
heated buck and an iron
which is mounted on the end
of a swinging arm (jointed or
straight). Pressure is applied
through a linkage from a foot
pedal to the movable arm
and so to the iron.
446
Word Category Short description Description
J UNCO fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A fibre obtained from the
shrub or small tree,
Koeberlinia spinosa.
A fibre obtained from the
shrub or small tree,
Koeberlinia spinosa. Used
mainly for hard matting,
strong cordage
J UNGLE
CLOTH
fabrics A trade name for heavy,
closely woven, cotton
fabric
A trade name for heavy,
closely woven, cotton fabric
made with more than 300
picks per inch. It possesses
good wind-resistant qualities.
Used mainly for winter
clothes.
J UTE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Soft, but coarse
hardwearing fibres from
the inner bark of the round
pod jute (Corchorus
capsularis), the long pod
jute (Corchorus olitorius)
and from the inner bark of
other closely re-lated
plants, such as kenaf,
sometimes referred to as
Meshta (Hibiscus
cannabinus).
Soft, but coarse hardwearing
fibres from the inner bark of
the round pod jute
(Corchorus capsularis), the
long pod jute (Corchorus
olitorius) and from the inner
bark of other closely re-lated
plants, such as kenaf,
sometimes referred to as
Meshta (Hibiscus
cannabinus). J ute fibre is
similar in appearance to flax
and hemp but is
characterized by the
irregularity of its lumen.
Com-mercially, jute is divided
into two main classes; white
jute generally associated
with the round pod jute and
dark jute associated with the
long pod jute. J ute is light
brown in colour, difficult to
bleach, and unlike other
vegetable fibres it has a
moderately good affinity for
basic dyes. Not used for
cloth-ing. Finds maximum
use in the making of sacks
and to a lesser extent in
heavy textiles, upholstery.
J UTE RUG
BACKING
fabrics Plain weave jute fabric in
single construction.
Plain weave jute fabric in
single construction.
Characterized by stripes in
two colours with three yarns
in each stripe. Used for rug
backing
447
Word Category Short description Description
J UTE-SPUN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Descriptive of staple yarn
that has been prepared
and spun on machinery
originally designated for
spinning yarn from jute
Descriptive of staple yarn
that has been prepared and
spun on machinery originally
designated for spinning yarn
from jute

K

Word Category Short description Description
KAAI FINISH processes,
operations
A finishing treatment
by which the cotton
yarns are shrunk
A finishing treatment by which
the cotton yarns are shrunk to
obtain a crinkled appearance.
The finish is used mainly for
crepon and some other fabrics
made of cotton and mohair or
worsted.
KAILI fabrics A British trade name
for Loongee.
A British trade name for
Loongee.
KALABATUN fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
A fine gold or silver
thread
1. A fine gold or silver thread,
made by drawing the metal into
a thin wire and winding it
around a core of yarn. Used
extensively of embroidering
caps.
2. A cotton fabric ornamented
with stripes of kalabatun gold
threads
KALAMKARI fabrics An Indian cotton
fabric hand-woven
from native cottons.
An Indian cotton fabric hand-
woven from native cottons.
These fabrics are hand printed,
the design first applied with a
pen.
KALEMKAR fabrics A Persian term for
various calicoes;
1.A Persian term for various
calicoes; the best designs are
considered the floral
arabesques.
2.The word also means a pen
or brush picture. See Kalmkari.
KALINGS SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A variety of raw silk
produced in China.
A variety of raw silk produced
in China. Used mainly for
sewing thread.
KANDAR processes,
operations
A trade name for a
resin finish for
fabrics.
A trade name for a resin finish
for fabrics. This treatment
results in a crisp, texture-rich
and durable to dry cleaning
448
Word Category Short description Description
and laundering fabric.
KANGAROO HAIR fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A hair obtained from
the kangaroo.
A hair obtained from the
kangaroo. It is procured in
small quantities and blended
with other fibres for weaving
bagging materials
KAPAS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Indian term denoting
raw cotton that
contains seeds.
Indian term denoting raw
cotton that contains seeds.
KAPOK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The fibre resembles
cotton but silkier, is
a seed fibre which is
round, smooth and
light.
The fibre resembles cotton but
silkier, is a seed fibre which is
round, smooth and light. As it
is too brittle to spin, it is only
used as a bulky soft filling in
upholstery, cushions,
mattresses, toys, etc. As a
filler, it has been superseded to
a certain extent by the cheaper
synthetic foam. Both are highly
in-flammable.
KARAKUL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The long carpet
wool obtained from
young lambs of the
Karakul breed.
The long carpet wool obtained
from young lambs of the
Karakul breed. Shrinkage is
about 35 %. See Astrakhan fur
and Broadtail.
KARAKUL CLOTH fabrics See Caracul cloth See Caracul cloth
KARPASI fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Sanskrit for cotton. Sanskrit for cotton.
KASHA fabrics Fabric made from
fine wool and Tibet
goat hair.
1. Fabric made from fine wool
and Tibet goat hair. A softly
napped fabric with a crosswise
streak caused by darker hairs.
Used for soft jackets and
dresses.
2. May also be a cotton flannel
fabric, with a napped right side,
slightly cru in colour and
made as sheeting. See
Sheeting
KASHMIR fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Cashmere. See Cashmere.
KASURI fabrics A hand-woven, plain
weave cotton fabric
A hand-woven, plain weave
cotton fabric with irregular
white dots on a blue ground,
produced by tie-dyeing. Made
449
Word Category Short description Description
in J apan it is used for school
childrens clothing.
KAZAK garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
An important variety
of wool rugs with
long, soft pile, at
least one end is
finished with a
knotted fringe.
An important variety of wool
rugs with long, soft pile, at
least one end is finished with a
knotted fringe. Frequently
made with four picks
alternating with each row of
knots. Geometrical designs
often employ a toothed edge or
primitively conventionalised
trees and animals, and
characteristic colours are red,
green and blue. Made in small
and medium sizes by the
nomads in Caucasia.
KDK fabrics See Knit-deknit
texturing.
See Knit-deknit texturing.
KEBA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Cocoon
strippings.
See Cocoon strippings.
KEMP fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A coarse, animal
fibre with a wide
lattice-type medulla
that is shed from the
skin at least once a
year.
A coarse, animal fibre with a
wide lattice-type medulla that is
shed from the skin at least
once a year. It is often shorter
than other fibres of the fleece
and has a long tapering tip,
and when completely shed,
tapers sharply towards the root
end. It is often shorter than
other fibres of the fleece and
has a long tapering tip, and
when completely shed, tapers
sharply towards the root end.
KENAF fibers,
filaments,
yarns
It is known as Mesta
in India.
It is known as Mesta in India.
The fibre obtained from the
bast layer of the plant Hibiscus
cannabinus. Being similar to
jute in many of its properties,
kenaf is used either as an
alternative to, or in admixture
with jute.
KENTUCKY J EAN fabrics A strong, filling-
faced fabric, which
is made with cotton
warp and wool filling
A strong, filling-faced fabric,
which is made with cotton warp
and wool filling. Used for
trousers.
KERNMANTEL accessories A braided rope so A braided rope so constructed
450
Word Category Short description Description
constructed as to
possess high
extension and
energy absorption
under load, used in
rock climbings etc.
as to possess high extension
and energy absorption under
load, used in rock climbings
etc., to arrest the accidental fall
of a climber with as low
deceleration as possible.
KERSEY fabrics Woollen fabric that
originated in Kersey,
Suffolk.
Woollen fabric that originated
in Kersey, Suffolk. Has a lustre
caused by the use of crossbred
wool, and is a very heavy, thick
wool coating fabric which has
been fulled and also felted.
Often a twill weave, although
the face finish that is applied
conceals this. Is a conventional
cloth in appearance and not
much used now except for
classic overcoats, or in lighter
weight for a classic black
dress. May now contain some
acrylic fibre.
KETTLE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Beck See Beck
KETTLECLOTH fabrics Fairly stiff plain-
weave fabric, with a
dull surface and a
slight slub in the
weave which may
be coloured.
Fairly stiff plain-weave fabric,
with a dull surface and a slight
slub in the weave which may
be coloured. Made from cotton
and polyester yarns. Ideal for
mens light summer jackets, for
trousers for men and women,
and other casual but crisp
effect clothes
KEYMO FINISH processes,
operations
A finishing process
applied to wool
fabric to prevent
shrinkage.
A finishing process applied to
wool fabric to prevent
shrinkage. The treatment
consists of running the fabric
through a sulphuric acid
solution. Now other types of
shrinkage control have largely
su-perseded it
KHADDAR fabrics A coarse, hand-
woven, low grade of
cotton fabric made
in India from native
yarns.
A coarse, hand-woven, low
grade of cotton fabric made in
India from native yarns.
KHADIE fabrics An Indian cotton
similar to khaddar
An Indian cotton similar to
khaddar but with fringed ends.
451
Word Category Short description Description
but with fringed
ends. Used for
towelling.
Used for towelling.
KIBISU fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Frisons. See Frisons.
KICK TAPE accessories Also called Trouser
binding.
Also called Trouser binding. A
narrow fabric, often Paris
binding, used on trouser leg
bottoms.
KID fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
The coat of the
young deer
1. The coat of the young deer.
Usually marked grey, white
and black. Very soft, but
hardwearing.
2. The skin of the young goat.
Easy to sew. It is mainly used
for gloves. Heavy varieties are
used for shoes.
KIDDERMINISTER
CARPET
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under Ingrain
carpet.
See under Ingrain carpet.
KIER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A large metal
container in which
yarn or cloth can be
boiled and bleached
A large metal container in
which yarn or cloth can be
boiled and bleached
KIER BOIL processes,
operations
Also called Kiering. Also called Kiering. The
process of prolonged boiling of
cotton or flax materials with
alkaline liquors in a kier, either
at or above atmospheric
pressure. See also Open boil,
Pressure boil.
KIERING processes,
operations
See Kier boil. See Kier boil.
KINDERGARTEN
CLOTH
fabrics A sturdy fabric in
plain weave with
yarn-dyed warp
stripes.
A sturdy fabric in plain weave
with yarn-dyed warp stripes.
Two single warps are woven
as one. Used for childrens
sunsuits, dolls dresses and
bunting
KINETIC FRICTION general Friction developed
between two bodies
in motion. Compare
Static friction.
Friction developed between
two bodies in motion. Compare
Static friction.
KING OF FIBRES fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Cotton fibre. See Cotton fibre.
452
Word Category Short description Description
KINGS CORD fabrics See Corduroy. See Corduroy.
KINK defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Also called
Centre loop, Curl, Filling snarl,
Kink-in, Kinky thread, Looped
yarn, Snarl. A place in a yarn
where a short length of yarn,
that has spontaneously
doubled back on itself to form a
loop
KINK-IN defects See Kink See Kink
KINKING processes,
operations
The doubling back
of a yarn on itself to
relieve torque given
by twisting or
texturing.
The doubling back of a yarn on
itself to relieve torque given by
twisting or texturing.
KINKY FILLING defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Short weft yarn
loops, caused by tension
release of the weft yarn before
the loom turns over for the
proper timing of the opening of
the shed of the warp yarns.
The three actions of the loom,
viz. shedding, picking, and
beating up must synchronise to
the decimal part of a second;
otherwise kinks are likely to
occur.
KINKY THREAD defects See Kink See Kink
KISS PRINTING processes,
operations
See Relief printing
and Surface
printing.
See Relief printing and Surface
printing.
KITSCH fabrics Design lacking
restraint; excessive
decoration for the
purpose of
embellishment.
Design lacking restraint;
excessive decoration for the
purpose of embellishment.
Term coined in Gernany. In
products, kitsch represents too
much sheen, gilt, and lustre; it
may be fake marble, poor
reproductions or fussy frills.
KNABS general A term used in
England for silk
waste obtained in
reeling.
A term used in England for silk
waste obtained in reeling.
KNEE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related
term.
Garment-related term. See
under Garment sizing system.
KNEE GIRTH garments, Garment-related Garment-related term. See
453
Word Category Short description Description
made-ups,
assemblies
term. under Garment sizing system.
KNEE LIFTER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In sewing machine,
a lever under the
sewing machine
table,
In sewing machine, a lever
under the sewing machine
table, which when operated by
the machinists knee, lifts the
presser foot.
KNICKER YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Knickerbocker
yarn
See Knickerbocker yarn
KNICKERBOCKER
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A type of fancy yarn,
also called Knicker
yarn, Nepp yarn
A type of fancy yarn, also
called Knicker yarn, Nepp yarn.
A yarn made on the woollen
system and showing strongly
contrasting spots on its surface
that are made either by
dropping in small balls of wool
at the latter part of the carding
process or by incorporating
them in the blend and so
setting the carding machine
that these small lumps are not
carded out.
KNICKERBROCKER
TWEED
fabrics A tough wool fabric
or mixture of wool
and cotton with
characteristic
coloured flecks
A tough wool fabric or mixture
of wool and cotton with
characteristic coloured flecks;
made with knickerbrocker
yarns
KNIFE PLEATS garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Pleats with the folds
lying flat and facing
in one direction.
Pleats with the folds lying flat
and facing in one direction.
KNIT BRAID accessories A cord produced on
a small-diameter
knitting machine
with oscillating
feeders.
A cord produced on a small-
diameter knitting machine with
oscillating feeders.
KNIT TUBING fabrics A circular knitted
cloth without seams.
A circular knitted cloth without
seams. Sheath-style dresses,
skirts and sleeves may be
made in this way
KNIT, DOUBLE fabrics See Double knit. See Double knit.
KNIT, SINGLE fabrics See Single knit. See Single knit.
KNIT-DE KNIT
TEXTURING
processes,
operations
See under Textured
yarn.
See under Textured yarn.
KNITS fabrics See Knitted fabrics See Knitted fabrics
KNITTED BLANK fabrics Also called Garment Also called Garment blank. A
454
Word Category Short description Description
blank. piece of fabric from which a
garment portion or portions are
cut, and whose width and
length relates to that garment
portion. It also incorporates
shaping by changes of stitch
size or type. Invariably the
lowest edge, the bottom of the
blank, is a welt.
KNITTED FABRICS fabrics A structure
produced by
interlooping one or
more ends of yarn
or comparable
material; a fabric
constructed from
intermeshed loops
A structure produced by
interlooping one or more ends
of yarn or comparable material;
a fabric constructed from
intermeshed loops.
There are three recognised
looped constructions used for
the manufacture of knitted
fabrics; Warp knitted fabric,
Weft knitted fabric and Crochet
knitted fabric. See Warp
knitting, Weft knitting and
Crochet knitting under Knitting.
KNITTED FLAT
RUCHE
accessories See under Ruche See under Ruche
KNITTED
GARMENTS
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A substantial
quantity of apparels
are now being made
from knitted fabrics,
and its popularity is
steadily increasing
all over the world.
A substantial quantity of
apparels are now being made
from knitted fabrics, and its
popularity is steadily increasing
all over the world. Knitting is
used to produce garments that
cover every part of the human
body, in a wide range of
garment types from socks,
caps, gloves and underwear to
upper and lower body
garments varying from T-shirts
to formal jackets. The most
salient property of knitted fabric
is its extensibility, which is in
sharp contrast to the general
rigidity of most woven fabrics.
The principal feature of
garments made from knitted
fabric is that the nature of the
final garment and the
processing it goes through are
affected in a major way by the
primary knitting process.
455
Word Category Short description Description
All knitted garments are
classified into four classes
according to general
production methods:
1. Fully cut garments,
2. Stitch shaped cut garments,
3. Fully fashioned garments,
and
4. Integral garments.
See Fully cut garments, Stitch
shaped cut garments, Fully
fashioned garments, and
Integral gar-ments.
KNITTED LOOP fabrics A single unit of weft
knitted fabric
consisting of a loop
of yarn intermeshed
above and below
with different
threads
A single unit of weft knitted
fabric consisting of a loop of
yarn intermeshed above and
below with different threads,
and usually sharing the same
thread with the loops on either
side.
At the point of mesh with the
previously formed loop, a
knitted loop is usually open but
may be crossed.
KNITTED PILE
CARPET
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A carpet made on
either warp knitting
or weft knitting
machines
A carpet made on either warp
knitting or weft knitting
machines
KNITTING fabrics One of the most
important processes
for producing
fabrics. The action
of forming fabrics by
the intermeshing of
loops.
One of the most important
processes for producing
fabrics. The action of forming
fabrics by the intermeshing of
loops. There are three
recognised looped
constructions:
Warp knitting:
Warp knitting is characterised
by the structural threads of the
fabric running along the length
of the fabric approximately
parallel with the selvage. One
horizontal row of loops, or
course, is made from many
threads.
Warpknitted fabrics are mainly
flat, closer knit, ladders less
easily and are more stable
than weft-knitted. Extra inlaid
456
Word Category Short description Description
weft yarns can be used to
increase stability. Warp knitting
is done on Tricot and Raschel
machines; both having different
kinds of needles.
In Tricot, one or more sets of
yarns are used, e.g. for one-
bar tricot the yarn is knitted first
in one di-rection, then in the
opposite; in two-bar tricot using
two sets, one is knitted in one
direction, the other in the
opposite. Many warp-knitted
fabrics are locknit
construction, the stitches
locked to prevent runs.
Weft knitting:
Fabric in which the constituent
threads generally pass from
side to side of the fabric, along
the ad-vancing line of
construction. Weft knitted
fabrics are characterised by
the structural threads being
perpendicular to the selvage of
the fabric. One horizontal row
of loops or course of such a
fabric is normally made from
one or very few threads; the
yarn goes back and forth
across the fabric (weft-ways) to
make a flat fabric and goes
round and round to make a
circular or tubular fabric. The
basic stitches are plain, purl
and rib. An extra yarn may be
laid across, but not looped, to
give greater sta-bility. There
are various types of weft
knitting machines to produce
simple fabrics for seamless
hose and underwear,
complicated cloth; for fully
fashioned hosiery, underwear
and outerwear; and intri-cate
design fabrics like interlock,
double knitted, etc.
Crochet:
Unlike the other two
457
Word Category Short description Description
constructions, it is solely hand-
made. One thread is used
which chains upon it-self, and
cross-links are formed with
previously formed chain to
generate fabric
KNITTING
DEFECTS
defects Knitted fabric has
characteristic
defects that occur
as a result of the
construction of the
fabric.
Knitted fabric has characteristic
defects that occur as a result of
the construction of the fabric.
They can be categorised into
horizontal and vertical
components.
One type of main horizontal
fault is different course lengths
being incorporated into the
fabric. When some courses are
wildly out of specification and
differ from one another, the
fabric has hori-zontal bars that
degrade its appearance and
lower its perceived quality. If
the mean value of the course
length is out of specification,
every other fabric property is
also affected.
Most other faults that result in
horizontal barring are
connected in some respect to
the yarn used. They include:
Uneven counts between yarns,
Uneven counts within yarns,
Different dyeing shades
between yarns,
Different dyeing within one
yarn,
Different spinning/batch source
of yarns,
Different bulking/heat
treatment given to synthetic
man-made yarns.
There are other faults specific
to certain yarn and fibre types,
but all these faults characterise
them-selves as bars across the
fabric, of density, colour or
lustre.
Vertical faults usually result
from the knitting process but
can occur with finishing. A
458
Word Category Short description Description
common ver-tical fault is a
needle line. At its most benign
a faulty needle may produce a
wale slightly larger or smaller,
or distorted loops. Such lines
may or may not result in the
rejection of fabric or garment,
but they nevertheless produce
an obvious lowering of its
quality.
Really faulty needles result in
vertical lines of occasional or
frequent tuck stitches, or
occasional or frequent cut
stitches where the yarn
actually parts, with
consequential holes. Tucking
and cutting can sometimes
occur at random, or through
the whole piece, rendering it
virtually useless.
In piece goods fabric produced
on circular machines it is
sometimes possible to split the
fabric down a single bad wale
line before finishing. Other
solutions involve the messy
business of remov-ing
damaged garment portions
from the cut lay and re-cutting.
Such faults in garment blanks
or fully-fashioned panels
render them unusable. In these
industries it is much more likely
that the knitter in control of the
machines would notice very
early, and so pre-vent much
wastage.
KNITTING
ELEMENTS
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A generic term
describing the loop-
forming parts of a
knitting machine
A generic term describing the
loop-forming parts of a knitting
machine, and those parts used
to control and/or select the
loop-forming instruments.
KNITTING MACHINE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A machine for the
production of yarns,
fabrics or garments
by warp knitting or
weft knitting.
A machine for the production of
yarns, fabrics or garments by
warp knitting or weft knitting.
The different types of warp and
weft-knitting machines are
classified and named,
459
Word Category Short description Description
primarily, according to (i) the
type of fabric or garment they
are intended to produce, (ii) the
type of needle used, (iii) the
format, arrangement and
activation of their needles or
needle beds, (iv) the type of
patterning con-trol used, and
(v) whether they are hand-
operated or power-operated.
KNITWEAR garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A generic term
applied to all knitted
outer garments
except stockings
and socks
A generic term applied to all
knitted outer garments except
stockings and socks
KNOCK-OFF LAP processes,
operations
In warp knitting, a
length or (lengths) of
yarn received by a
needle and not
pulled through the
loop.
In warp knitting, a length or
(lengths) of yarn received by a
needle and not pulled through
the loop.
KNOP STITCH processes,
operations
In weft knitting, a
stitch giving a raised
effect
In weft knitting, a stitch giving a
raised effect, that consists of a
held loop and more than two
tuck loops all of which are
intermeshed in the same
course.
KNOP YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A type of fancy yarn. A type of fancy yarn. A yarn
that contains prominent
bunches of one or more of its
component threads, arranged
at regular or irregular intervals
along its length. Sometimes a
tie yarn is used to hold the
knops in place
KNOT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A joint in a yarn
made by tying two
ends together.
1. A joint in a yarn made by
tying two ends together. If the
joint is not properly done it may
be a de-fect.
2. A measure of yarn, thread,
etc. or quantity, which varies
with the fibre; it consists of a
set number of coils. Named for
the knot which is tied following
the reeling process.
3. In the manufacture of
Oriental rugs, the lacing or
tying of a yarn introduced into
460
Word Category Short description Description
the web around the warp
yarns. There are two major
types of knots used for this
purpose, the ghiordes, or
Turkish knot, and the senna or
Persian knot.
KNOT DYEING processes,
operations
See Tie dyeing. See Tie dyeing.
KNOT WORK fabrics Porous fancywork
made by tatting,
crocheting, or
knotting,
Porous fancywork made by
tatting, crocheting, or knotting,
KNOT YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See knop yarn. See knop yarn.
KNOT, LONG defects See Long knot See Long knot
KNOTLESS YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A ply yarn that has
no lumps or knots.
A ply yarn that has no lumps or
knots. Yarns are spliced
togerther by hand or machine
when neces-sary.
KNOTS seams,
stitches
See Bullion Stitch. See Bullion Stitch.
KNOTTED STITCH processes,
operations
In knitting, a needle
loop expanded over
two wales
In knitting, a needle loop
expanded over two wales.
Applied to stockings, the terms
knotted stitch and Spread loop
refer to expansion over two
wales and the stockings are
described as mesh or
(technically) half-point
transfer. The stitch has ladder-
resistant properties.
KNOTTER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A device for tying
knots, used in
making yarn.
A device for tying knots, used
in making yarn.
KNOTTING processes,
operations
The process of tying
two yarn ends
together.
1. The process of tying two
yarn ends together.
2. The tying of the ends of a
new weavers beam to their
corresponding ends on the old
beam in the loom by hand or
machine. Also called as
knotting-in, tying-in and tying
back
KNOTTING-IN processes,
operations
See under Knotting See under Knotting
KNUBBS fibers, See Frisons. See Frisons.
461
Word Category Short description Description
filaments,
yarns
KNUCKLE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See preferred term
Crimp.
See preferred term Crimp.
KOKAYU SILK fabrics A J apanese silk
fabric in the gum,
made in a mottled
effect.
A J apanese silk fabric in the
gum, made in a mottled effect.
KOKO garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A Hawaiian term for
a knitted bag or bag
made of net fabric
employing coir or
hemp fibre.
A Hawaiian term for a knitted
bag or bag made of net fabric
employing coir or hemp fibre.
KRAFT YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn made by
twisting a strip of
paper manufactured
from wood pulp by
the sulphate
process.
A yarn made by twisting a strip
of paper manufactured from
wood pulp by the sulphate
process.
KRAFTCORD fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn made of
twisted kraft yarns
used as a stuffer
and/or backing in
carpet weaving.
A yarn made of twisted kraft
yarns used as a stuffer and/or
backing in carpet weaving. It
has a smooth texture and
uniform thickness and
maintains its stiffness without
sizing. The wet strength of yarn
is not less than 40% of the dry
strength.
KUDZU FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A strong, water
resistant bast fibre
obtained from
Pueraria
thunbergiana in Asia
A strong, water resistant bast
fibre obtained from Pueraria
thunbergiana in Asia where it
has often been used for fabric.
KURIWATA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Wild silk. See under Wild silk.
KURUVA YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A coarse, two-ply
coir yarn, handspun
on Malabar Coast of
India.
A coarse, two-ply coir yarn,
handspun on Malabar Coast of
India. Used for coarse matting.

L

Word Category Short description Description
462
Word Category Short description Description
LABEL CLOTH fabrics A heavily, but flexibly,
filled fabric, used for
labels and tags.
A heavily, but flexibly, filled
fabric, used for labels and
tags.
LABEL, CARE accessories See Care label See Care label
LABORATORY
DIP
processes,
operations
A laboratory dyeing,
usually to develop a dye
formula.
A laboratory dyeing, usually
to develop a dye formula.
LABORATORY
SAMPLE
general A portion of material
taken to represent the lot
sample
A portion of material taken to
represent the lot sample, or
the original material, and
used in the laboratory as a
source of test specimens.
LAC DYE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A fairly fast orange
crimson natural dyestuff
of the same class as
cochineal, obtained from
Coccus lacca
A fairly fast orange crimson
natural dyestuff of the same
class as cochineal, obtained
from Coccus lacca. The
insect lives on the twigs of
certain trees, covered with a
resinous encrustation, which
is extracted with water to
obtain the dye
LACE fabrics A fabric consisting of sets
of threads, some of
which are twisted round
the others at intervals,
thus producing holes as
patterning.
A fabric consisting of sets of
threads, some of which are
twisted round the others at
intervals, thus producing
holes as patterning.
Open-work fabrics of various
construction and elaborate
designs, with a ground of
mesh or net on which
patterns may be worked at
the same time as the ground
is formed or applied later,
and which is made of yarn
by looping, twisting, or
knitting, either by hand with
a needle or bobbin, or by
ma-chinery. Also a similar
fabric may be made by
crocheting, tatting, darning,
embroidering, weaving, or
knitting.
Any fibre may be used but
the most common are now
nylon, viscose and cotton.
Made as edgings as well as
wide-width fabric, it is with
few exceptions, machine-
463
Word Category Short description Description
made. There has been a
great revival in hand-made
bobbin or pillow lace, but as
a leisure-time craft interest,
not for commercial pur-
poses. Narrow lace is used
flat, pleated or gathered as
decoration; wide lace is
used for lingerie, nightwear,
formal dresses, such as
wedding outfits; cheaper
varieties are used as
curtains and bed-spreads.
Lace often has an underlay,
either matching or
contrasting.
There are many types of
lace with different
descriptive names, often
taken from the area in which
they were first developed.
LACE EFFECT fabrics A broad term for novelty
fabrics with open, lacy
effects
A broad term for novelty
fabrics with open, lacy
effects produced by leno
weaves, machine
embroidery on sheer
ground, mock leno effects.
LACE
FURNISHING
MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See under Lace
machines.
See under Lace machines.
LACE
MACHINES
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Bar warp machine,
Barmen machine...etc
Bar warp machine: A warp
lace machine in which the
pattern control is similar to
that of a Leavers machine.
Barmen machine: A braiding
machine in which threads on
king bobbins placed on
carriers are plaited with each
other, and sometimes with
warp threads. A jacquard
controls the paths of the car-
riers in accordance with the
requirements of the pattern.
Bobbinet machine: Also
called Plain net machine. A
machine in which threads in
brass bobbins borne in
carriages, in pairs in tandem
464
Word Category Short description Description
in each comb space, swing
in pendulum fashion
between ver-tical warp
threads in planes at right
angles to the warp sheet
and progressively traverse
across the whole width of
the machine and return.
Curtain machine: Also called
Lace furnishing machine. A
machine in which threads in
brass bob-bins borne in
carriages, each in an allotted
comb space, swing in
pendulum fashion between
vertical warp and pattern
threads in planes at right
angles to a warp sheet. The
lateral movements of the
warp and pattern threads
are imparted by guide bars.
By interaction of a jack bar
and a jacquard, spring-steel
jacks modify the lateral
movements of selected warp
and pattern threads in
accordance with the
requirements of the pattern.
Double locker machine: A
plain net machine in which
the motion of the carriages
is imparted by driving and
locker bars.
Go-through machine: A
Leavers type of machine, in
which the catch bars impart
motion to the car-riages.
Lace furnishing machine:
See Curtain machine,
above.
Leavers machine: A
machine in which threads in
brass bobbins borne in
carriages, each in an allot-
ted comb space, swing in
pendulum fashion between
vertical warp and pattern
threads in planes at right
angles to a warp sheet. The
465
Word Category Short description Description
lateral movements of the
warp and pattern threads
are imparted by steel bars,
actuated by a jacquard.
Mechlin machine: A Leavers
type of machine without a
jacquard that employs a
limited number of guide
bars, whose movements are
controlled by cams. It is
used for making a special
type of net called mechlin.
Plain net machine: See
Curtain machine, above.
Roller rocker machine: Also
called Rolling rocker
machine. A plain net
machine in which the mo-
tion of the carriages is
imparted by fluted rollers.
Rolling rocker machine: See
Roller Rocker machine,
above.
Sival machine: A Leavers
type of machine, differing
from the standard version in
that the frame and the catch-
bar and point-bar linkages
are similar to those of the
furnishing machine. Its
pattern-ing principle is the
same as that of the Leavers
machine, and the lace
produced is of the Leavers
type.
String warp machine: A warp
lace machine in which the
pattern control is similar to
that of the furnishing
machine. The jacks work
between the guide bars and
needles.
Warp lace machine: A
machine on which the
ground threads are looped
and are taken from warp
beams. The pattern threads
are laid in and secured by
the ground threads.
466
Word Category Short description Description
LACE QUALITY fabrics A quantitative measure of
the rate of take-up (and
thus the comparative
warp-way) of lace in the
machine.
A quantitative measure of
the rate of take-up (and thus
the comparative warp-way)
of lace in the machine.
The finished quality of lace
and net differs from the
quality in the machine state
owing to dimen-sional
changes introduced in
dressing. The finished
quality of plain net is
traditionally expressed as
the sum of the Hole count
per inch warp-way and the
hole count per inch bobbin-
way.
LACE SPRIG fabrics A portion of a lace
appliqud to a net ground
A portion of a lace appliqud
to a net ground
LACE STITCH fabrics In weft knitting. An open-
work effect
In weft knitting. An open-
work effect (in plain-knitted
fabric) produced by
transferring needle loops to
an adjacent needle of the
same needle bar.
LACE YARNS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Smooth ply cotton yarns
generally produced in the
range of 60s to 24os
counts; generally hard
twisted and gassed.
Smooth ply cotton yarns
generally produced in the
range of 60s to 24os
counts; generally hard
twisted and gassed. Made of
good quality combed cotton.
Mostly Egyptian, prima or
Sea Island cotton are used.
LACET accessories A braided or woven
narrow fabric, flat or
tubular
A braided or woven narrow
fabric, flat or tubular, often
cut into length and tagged
for use as shoelaces and
corset-laces.
LACING processes,
operations
See under Leasing. See under Leasing.
LACING CORD accessories See under Cable cord. See under Cable cord.
LACQUER
FINISH
processes,
operations
A chemical process
forming a thin, smooth,
highly glazed film on the
surface of the cloth; it
may be applied in
patterns.
A chemical process forming
a thin, smooth, highly glazed
film on the surface of the
cloth; it may be applied in
patterns. Among the
materials used are cellulose
acetate, synthetic resins.
467
Word Category Short description Description
LACQUER
PRINT
processes,
operations
Lacquer is used to bind
pigments to a fabric.
Lacquer is used to bind
pigments to a fabric. The
continuous film formed also
sticks the fibres together and
the fabric has a stiff hand;
the usefulness is therefore
limited.
LADDEER
BRAID
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Also called Lattice braid Also called Lattice braid. An
open-work braid which, in
appearance, suggests a
ladder. Used for laces and
trimmings.
LADDEER
STITCH
general An embroidery stitch. An embroidery stitch. The
threads are arranged in a
way to simulate the rungs of
a ladder.
LADDER defects Fabric defect. A wale or
several consecutive
wales in a weft-knitted
fabric in which the loop
formation has collapsed
into straight lengths of
yarn.
Fabric defect. A wale or
several consecutive wales in
a weft-knitted fabric in which
the loop formation has
collapsed into straight
lengths of yarn. The defect
is caused by the breakdown
of a stitch that, when the
fabric is subsequently
subjected to tension, permits
the de-knitting of the stitches
in the same wale or wales
within previous courses. See
also Run
LADDER WEB accessories A four-ply woven narrow
fabric, A crochet or warp-
knitted narrow fabric
1. A four-ply woven narrow
fabric consisting of two outer
or body webs between
which are woven two narrow
webs in staggered
relationship with each other,
each being woven
alternately into one end and
then the outer or body web,
so as to form, when opened
up, supports for the slats of
a Vene-tian blind.
2. A crochet or warp-knitted
narrow fabric, consisting of
two wales, or columns of
stitches spaced apart by the
width of the slat of a
venetian blind. Weft yarns
468
Word Category Short description Description
cross from one wale to the
other to form a ladder-like
structure which separates
and positions the slats of the
blind. Knitted web is usu-ally
made from polyester yarn
and heat set after
manufacture.
LAHORE fabrics A piece-dyed dress fabric
made from cashmere in
small dobby effects.
A piece-dyed dress fabric
made from cashmere in
small dobby effects.
LAID FABRIC fabrics A fabric made without
weft yarn
A fabric made without weft
yarn, the parallel warp yarns
being held together by
means of rubber latex or
other binding material
LAID ROPE accessories See under Rope See under Rope
LAID-IN FABRIC,
WARP-KNITTED
fabrics A fabric containing one or
more series of warp
threads held into the
ground construction by
being trapped between
the face loops and the
underlaps of the ground
construction.
A fabric containing one or
more series of warp threads
held into the ground
construction by being
trapped between the face
loops and the underlaps of
the ground construction. The
laid-in yarn is connected to
the ground construction by
an underlap on each wale
that it crosses.
LAID-IN FABRIC,
WEFT-KNITTED
fabrics A fabric containing non-
knitted yarns, which are
held in position by the
knitted structure.
A fabric containing non-
knitted yarns, which are held
in position by the knitted
structure. These fabrics are
frequently raised to produce
a pile effect, e.g. fleecy
fabrics.
LAID-PILE
FINISH
processes,
operations
See Drawn-pile finish. See Drawn-pile finish.
LAKE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In textile field this is the
principle of mordant
dyeing and printing.
An insoluble pigment
obtained by precipitating
various natural and artificial
colouring matters on to a
suitable base in the
presence of alum or salts of
magnesium, zinc, tin, etc. In
textile field this is the
principle of mordant dyeing
and printing.
469
Word Category Short description Description
LAMBS WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Soft resilient wool shorn
from lambs up to seven
months old.
Soft resilient wool shorn
from lambs up to seven
months old. Yarns from
lambswool are used for
knitwear and, in small
amounts, mixed with other
fibres in fabrics. Anything
containing lambswool has a
characteristic soft feel that
makes it comfortable to the
wearer.
LAMBREQUIN fabrics A decorative fabric A decorative fabric that may
be hung from a shelf or
casing for concealing
unsightly walls and curtain
fixtures
LAMBSDOWN fabrics A plaited knitted fabric
made of soft twist
woollen yarn and hard
twist cotton yarn.
A plaited knitted fabric made
of soft twist woollen yarn
and hard twist cotton yarn.
The woollen yarn appears
on the face, which is given a
heavy, spongy napped
finish; the cotton yarn
appears on the back. Used
for childrens coats,
blanketing, robes.
LAMBSKIN
CLOTH
fabrics A cotton fabric having a
high weft sett, with dense
nap of fibre on the
surface.
A cotton fabric having a high
weft sett, with dense nap of
fibre on the surface. The
weave is of a weft-sateen
character of the fustain type
LAM fabrics Any fabric containing
metal yarns. The metal
may be added as
decoration or it may exist
as the warp or weft
thread.
Any fabric containing metal
yarns. The metal may be
added as decoration or it
may exist as the warp or
weft thread. The main fabric
can be silk, viscose, acetate,
triacetate, nylon, or
polyester, and the weave is
usually plain. The fabrics are
thin and drape well. Used for
evening dresses, capes,
boleros, and fancy dress.
Requires lining. A one-way
fabric. See also Lame
jersey.
LAM J ERSEY fabrics Knitted fabric, usually
acetate, viscose or
Knitted fabric, usually
acetate, viscose or
470
Word Category Short description Description
polyester, with metallic
yarn included as an extra
thread in the knitting.
polyester, with metallic yarn
included as an extra thread
in the knitting. It is a one-
way fabric, with a light silver
or gold (or coloured) effect
one way, but when held up
the other way less shine will
be visible and more of the
basic colour. Usually
lightweight and often almost
transparent. Very soft and
drapes beautifully for
eveningwear.
LAMINATED
FABRIC
fabrics A layered fabric
structure, wherein a face
or outer fabric is joined to
a continuous sheet
material, such as
polyurethane foam
A layered fabric structure,
wherein a face or outer
fabric is joined to a
continuous sheet material,
such as polyurethane foam,
in such a way that the
identity of the continuous
sheet material is retained,
either by the flame method
or by an adhesive, and this
in turn normally, but not
always, is joined on the back
with a backing fabric such as
tricot. The fabrics are not
hardwearing, nor are they
very warm, but the foam
adds body to the fabric.
Used for childrens clothes,
womens jackets and
trousers and inexpensive
coats. Slightly springy, but
easy to handle. See also
Bonded fabric.
LAMINATES fabrics See Laminated fabric. See Laminated fabric.
LAMPAS fabrics A fabric similar to
brocade, originally an
Indian printed silk, but
now a woven fabric with
a rep ground and a satin-
like pattern formed by the
warp yarns.
A fabric similar to brocade,
originally an Indian printed
silk, but now a woven fabric
with a rep ground and a
satin-like pattern formed by
the warp yarns. A
contrasting effect is
achieved, too, with the weft
yarns so that the same
colour appears in the pattern
as in the background. Very
471
Word Category Short description Description
elaborate designs are
produced. It is a heavy
fabric, usually made now of
cotton, viscose, acrylic or
mixtures. Used for curtains
and furnishings. In some
cases the wrong side is
often attractive enough not
to need lining.
LAMPWICK accessories See Wick See Wick
LANA FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A lustrous seed hair
obtained from a species
of bombax tree cotton
A lustrous seed hair
obtained from a species of
bombax tree cotton in
Venezuela and Puerto Rico.
Used for stuffing.
LANC fabrics A term applied to fabrics
in which the weft threads
interlace with only a few
warp threads at intervals
across the fabric
A term applied to fabrics in
which the weft threads
interlace with only a few
warp threads at intervals
across the fabric, and float
over or under the rest to
produce tiny dots or specks
on the ground.
LANGLEY general Unit of energy received
by sample being tested
for light fastness or
strength loss
Unit of energy received by
sample being tested for light
fastness or strength loss
either in sunlight or the
Fade-o-meter
LANOLIN apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A complex chemical
substance, fatty in nature
and chiefly a mixture of
cholesterol esters
obtained from grease
wool.
A complex chemical
substance, fatty in nature
and chiefly a mixture of
cholesterol esters obtained
from grease wool. It serves
as an emollient for the skin
of the sheep and for its
fleece. Purified sheep
grease under the name of
lanolin or lanolin serves as
the basis for grease paints,
ointments, and skin creams.
LANSDOWN fabrics A lightweight, soft, fine
dress fabric woven with a
silk warp
A lightweight, soft, fine dress
fabric woven with a silk
warp, which appears on the
face, and worsted or cotton
filling, which shows on the
back, in a two up, one down
twill.
472
Word Category Short description Description
LAP general,
fibers,
filaments,
yarns, fabrics,
processes,
operations
A sheet of fibres or fabric
wrapped around a core
with specific applications
in different sections of
the industry
1. GENERAL. A sheet of
fibres or fabric wrapped
around a core with specific
applications in different
sections of the industry, e.g.
sheets of fibre wound on
rollers or round endless
aprons to facilitate transfer
from one process to the
next.
2. IN SILK. Silk waste after
discharging and combing,
but before processing into
sliver or top.
3. IN FABRIC.
(a) The length of fabric
between successive
transverse folds when
pieces are plaited down or
folded.
(b) An individual layer of
fabric in roll form.
4. IN WARP-KNITTING.
Descriptive of the wrapping
of the yarn around the
needle. The term is some-
times used synonymously
for overlap. See also
Lapping movement
LAP WASTE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Waste of long fibres,
formed in drawing and
spinning processes
Waste of long fibres, formed
in drawing and spinning
processes by the breaking of
the ends between the front
rollers and the bobbins.
LAP-FELLED
SEAM
general A seam formed with the
edges of both plies of
fabric concealed by inter-
lapping.
A seam formed with the
edges of both plies of fabric
concealed by inter-lapping.
Two or more rows of stitches
secure the turned pieces of
fabric.
LAPEL garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The upper part of the
front edge of a jacket or
coat which folds back on
to the forepart.
The upper part of the front
edge of a jacket or coat
which folds back on to the
forepart. The length of the
lapel extends from the gorge
seam to the back.
LAPEL ROLL garments,
made-ups,
The fall and curl of the
lapel downwards from
The fall and curl of the lapel
downwards from the break
473
Word Category Short description Description
assemblies the break seam of the
collar to the first button.
seam of the collar to the first
button. The term roll will
apply mostly to a soft finish
lapel, not one which is
pressed almost flat on the
crease line.
LAPPED processes,
operations
See Cuttled. See Cuttled.
LAPPED
APPLICATION
accessories A method of zipper
application, in which only
one fabric flap covers the
zipper and there is only
one row of stitching to
the left of the seamline.
A method of zipper
application, in which only
one fabric flap covers the
zipper and there is only one
row of stitching to the left of
the seamline. This type of
application is common on
left-side openings of skirts
and pants.
LAPPED SEAM general A complex seam formed
on the inside of the
object with neither raw
edge enclosed, and
having one visible line of
topstitching on the face
side and a small fold
formed by the
topstitching.
A complex seam formed on
the inside of the object with
neither raw edge enclosed,
and having one visible line
of topstitching on the face
side and a small fold formed
by the topstitching. A lapped
seam is made by (1)
machine basting the face
sides of the fabric together
on the 15 mm seamline, (2)
pressing both seam
allowances to one side, (3)
clipping the basting stitches
every four to five stitches to
facilitate later thread
removal (4) basting the
seam allowances in place to
one side to avoid movement
during the topstitching step,
(5) topstitching through the
fabric and both seam
allowances 1 to 2 mm from
the fold, and (6) removing
both machine bastings.
(Compare Tucked seam.)
LAPPET fabrics,
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Ballooning eye. 1. A figure produced on
fabric by means of extra
warps, using a special form
of loom.
2. See Ballooning eye.
474
Word Category Short description Description
LAPPET WEAVE fabrics Type of weave in which
floating threads are
carried on the surface of
the fabric and introduced
at intervals to form the
pattern.
Type of weave in which
floating threads are carried
on the surface of the fabric
and introduced at intervals
to form the pattern. The
floats are not long and the
patterns are usually
geometric, i.e. zigzag stripes
in white yarn on a coloured
plain-weave ground. The
technique can also be
introduced to form woven
spots. In this case, the
floating yarns between spots
are cut. Almost any fibre or
mixture of fibres can be
used.
LAPPING apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Specially woven fabric is
wound about eight or ten
times round the central
pressure bowl of a
textile-printing machine
to ensure resilience.
Specially woven fabric is
wound about eight or ten
times round the central
pressure bowl of a textile-
printing machine to ensure
resilience.
LAPPING
MOVEMENT
processes,
operations
The compound motion of
the guide bars of warp-
knitting machines that
presents the threads to
the needles so that loops
can be formed
The compound motion of the
guide bars of warp-knitting
machines that presents the
threads to the needles so
that loops can be formed.
This compound motion
consists in swinging motions
of the guides at right angles
to the needle bar, and lateral
movements parallel to the
needle bar. See also
Overlap and Underlap
LARVA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Stage of a silkworms life
when hatched from the
egg.
Stage of a silkworms life
when hatched from the egg.
It is immature, wingless, and
wormlike; growth in size and
development change the
larva into the chrysalis
stage.
LASER CLOTH
INSPECTOR
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A device that can scan
grey fabric (up to 64
inches wide) rapidly at
speeds up to 250 yards
per minute
A device that can scan grey
fabric (up to 64 inches wide)
rapidly at speeds up to 250
yards per minute
LASH-IN defects See J erk-in See J erk-in
475
Word Category Short description Description
LASHED PILE fabrics A filling pile with each
pile pick interwoven with
three ends to bind it
securely.
A filling pile with each pile
pick interwoven with three
ends to bind it securely. Also
called fast pile.
LASHING garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The fastening of the
inside seams of coat
edgings or facings to the
outer fabric or interlining,
in order to hold them in
position.
The fastening of the inside
seams of coat edgings or
facings to the outer fabric or
interlining, in order to hold
them in position. Usually
sewn by a blind stitch
machine.
LASTING fabrics A very stout, closely
woven fabric made from
hard-twisted yarns.
A very stout, closely woven
fabric made from hard-
twisted yarns. A worsted
lasting, which is mainly
used for protective clothing,
is usually a seven-shaft
weave. A cotton lasting,
which may be of sateen or
weft-faced twill weave, is
used chiefly for shoe tops
and bag linings.
LASTRILE
FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Rubber-2 under
Rubber
See Rubber-2 under Rubber
LATCH NEEDLE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See under Needle See under Needle
LATENT CRIMP fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A crimp that is potentially
present in specially
prepared fibres or
filaments and that can be
developed by a specific
treatment such as
thermal relaxation or
tensioning and
subsequent relaxation.
A crimp that is potentially
present in specially prepared
fibres or filaments and that
can be developed by a
specific treatment such as
thermal relaxation or
tensioning and subsequent
relaxation. Yarns or staple
are specially prepared to
crimp when subjected to
certain, specific conditions
such as wet processing or
tumbling in a heated
chamber.
LATERAL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A descriptive term for a
textile fibre composed of
two or more polymers
A descriptive term for a
textile fibre composed of two
or more polymers at least
two of which have a
continuous longitudinal
external surface.
476
Word Category Short description Description
LATERAL
HOLDING
STRENGTH
accessories The force required to
disengage a snap
fastener
The force required to
disengage a snap fastener
resulting from a pull in the
plane parallel to the material
to which the snap fastener is
attached.
LATERAL
LEAKGE
processes,
operations
The passage of gases
along or through the
textile element of a
coated fabric
The passage of gases along
or through the textile
element of a coated fabric or
along interstices formed by
the textile element and the
coating polymer of a coated
fabric.
LATEX fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The milky juice found in
certain plants, which is
the raw material from
which rubber is made.
The milky juice found in
certain plants, which is the
raw material from which
rubber is made. It is made
into stretch yarns with a
variety of names, and
incorporated into various
fabrics to make corsetry,
swimwear, ski-wear, lace
and elastic
LATTICE BRAID fabrics See Ladder braid. See Ladder braid.
LAUNDER-O-
METER
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The standard laboratory
device for testing a
fabrics colourfastness
The standard laboratory
device for testing a fabrics
colourfastness to, and
shrinkage in, washing and
dry cleaning. Also used to
test other laundry problems.
LAUNDER-
PROOF
fabrics,
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Fabrics and garments
which have been
laboratory tested to
withstand laundering
Fabrics and garments which
have been laboratory tested
to withstand laundering with
no colour lose and shrinkage
under normal washing
conditions and length of
time.
LAUNDERING processes,
operations
A process intended to
remove soils and/or
stains by treatment
(washing) with an
aqueous detergent
solution and normally
including subsequent
rinsing, extracting and
drying.
A process intended to
remove soils and/or stains
by treatment (washing) with
an aqueous detergent
solution and normally
including subsequent
rinsing, extracting and
drying. A process used to
refurbish a textile product or
parts thereof by: (a) cleaning
it in water containing a
477
Word Category Short description Description
cleaning agent, and possibly
bleach, (b) drying it, and (c)
usually, ironing or pressing
it.
LAUNDRY
DUCK
fabrics A wide army duck fabric A wide army duck fabric
specially constructed for
covering rolls in mangles
and other laundry machines.
LAUNDRY-
TESTED
fabrics,
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Fabrics and garments
which have passed
certain tests for colour
fastness to washing
Fabrics and garments which
have passed certain tests for
colour fastness to washing,
sun, gas and perspiration;
tensile strength; dimensional
stability; construction, etc.
LAWN fabrics Very fine smooth plain
weave fabric originally
made from linen, but
more commonly from
cotton and now also
featured in man-made
fibres.
Very fine smooth plain
weave fabric originally made
from linen, but more
commonly from cotton and
now also featured in man-
made fibres. May be plain or
printed, and has a slightly
stiff finish which may be
permanent. Very cool and
absorbent and hardwearing.
Used for baby clothes,
blouses, and nightwear.
Creases easily. Ordinarily
lawn is too closely woven to
be sheer but lawns made
from synthetic man-made
fibres have a tendency to be
sheer. Lawn and cambric
have similarities because
both are fine fabrics but lawn
is usually more closely
woven and stiffer in handle
than cambric. See
Handkerchief linen.
LAWN FINISH apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A light-starch finish
applied to lawn and other
fine-yarn plain fabrics
A light-starch finish applied
to lawn and other fine-yarn
plain fabrics to give a crisp
finished material.
LAY fabrics,
accessories
A build up of two or more
layers of fabric in
identical lengths so that
they can be cut
collectively into garment
portions.
1. A build up of two or more
layers of fabric in identical
lengths so that they can be
cut collectively into garment
portions. The dimensions of
the lay in respect of number
478
Word Category Short description Description
of layers and length are pre-
determined, as is the layout
of the garment pieces on the
upper surface of the lay.
2. In cordage, to twist two or
more components about
each other to form a helix
about the axis of the
resulting laid product which
may be a strand or rope.
The direction of lay is
described as S and Z (see
Direction of twist).
LAY LENGTH accessories The pitch of one
complete turn of a yarn in
a strand or of a strand in
a rope
The pitch of one complete
turn of a yarn in a strand or
of a strand in a rope
measured in a straight line
parallel to the axis of the
strand or rope.
LAY MARKER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Marker. See Marker.
LAY PINS apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Thin steel pins about 10-
15 cm. long with large
heads.
Thin steel pins about 10-15
cm. long with large heads.
They are pushed through
the waste parts of fabric lays
to hold them firm for cutting.
Mostly used on quilted
fabrics.
LAY PLANNING processes,
operations
The arranging of patterns
of the component parts of
a garment
The arranging of patterns of
the component parts of a
garment within a given width
of fabric in order to obtain
the most economical use of
the material. Also called
layout planning.
LAYING UP processes,
operations
The act of building the
lay from rolls or piles of
fabric
The act of building the lay
from rolls or piles of fabric.
Same as Spreading.
LAYOUT
PLANNING
processes,
operations
See Lay planning See Lay planning
LAZY-DAISY-
STITCH
general Long, detached chain
stitches grouped to form
a daisy pattern.
Long, detached chain
stitches grouped to form a
daisy pattern. An embroidery
stitch.
LCSP fibers,
filaments,
See Lea count-strength
product.
See Lea count-strength
product.
479
Word Category Short description Description
yarns
LEA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A unit length used to
determine the linear
density of various yarns,
usually a predetermined
fraction of a hank for a
specific yarn number
system:
A unit length used to
determine the linear density
of various yarns, usually a
predetermined fraction of a
hank for a specific yarn
number system:
1. IN COTTON, the number
of 120 yard lengths of yarn
per pound; an indirect yarn
numbering sys-tem.
2. IN WORSTED, the
number of 80 yard lengths of
yarn per pound; an indirect
yarn numbering sys-tem.
3. IN LINEN, the number of
300 yard lengths of yarn per
pound; an indirect yarn
numbering system
LEA COUNT-
STRENGTH
PRODUCT
general Also called CSP, Break
factor.
Also called CSP, Break
factor. The product of the lea
strength, and the actual
count, of cotton yarn.
LEA SKEIN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A skein, of length and
circumference specified
for the specific yarn
numbering system
involved
A skein, of length and
circumference specified for
the specific yarn numbering
system involved, commonly
used to determine the linear
density and the strength of
yarns.
LEACHING processes,
operations
Percolating action of a
suitable liquid to remove
any substance
Percolating action of a
suitable liquid to remove any
substance
LEADER
FABRIC
fabrics A length of fabric used in
finishing or dyeing
processes to lead goods
through a machine, and
generally left ready for
attachment to a further
place when necessary.
A length of fabric used in
finishing or dyeing
processes to lead goods
through a machine, and
generally left ready for
attachment to a further place
when necessary. A leader
cloth is often called anend-
fent and its use enables a
piece to be finished from
end to end substantially
without waste. See also
End-fent
LEADER MARK defects See Decating mark. See Decating mark.
480
Word Category Short description Description
LEAF apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Same as harness. Same as harness. A three-
leaf twill fabric, is a twill
made by using three
harnesses on the loom.
LEAF EDGE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The outer or fall edge of
the collar.
The outer or fall edge of the
collar.
LEAF FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Hard fibre Also called Hard fibre.
Derived from the hard
coarse leaves of
dicotyledonous plants such
as abaca.
LEAFY COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A ginned cotton which
contains a large amount
of small leaf matter.
A ginned cotton which
contains a large amount of
small leaf matter.
LEASE processes,
operations
The arrangement of warp
yarns to maintain the
same relative position.
The arrangement of warp
yarns to maintain the same
relative position. This is
done generally by criss-
crossing alternately, keeping
them in position by two rods,
called lease rods.
LEASE BANDS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
. Bands laid across a
warp being wound onto a
beam
1. Bands laid across a warp
being wound onto a beam to
make later handling easier.
2. Bands laid across a yarn-
hank being reeled to make
later handling easier.
LEASING processes,
operations
The operation of inserting
a crossed traverse lease-
cord in wraps of yarn on
a reel for the purpose of
preventing tangling of
yarn during processing,
e.g. in hank dyeing,
leasing is employed to
facili-tate subsequent
winding of a yarn
package from the hank
supply.
1. The operation of inserting
a crossed traverse lease-
cord in wraps of yarn on a
reel for the purpose of
preventing tangling of yarn
during processing, e.g. in
hank dyeing, leasing is
employed to facili-tate
subsequent winding of a
yarn package from the hank
supply. The leasing cords
are removed from the dyed
hanks immediately before
the hank to cone/cheese
winding operation. In the
case of silk yarns, this
operation is termed lacing
and halching. The term
halching is used when the
lease-cord is coloured
481
Word Category Short description Description
differently from the yarn.
2. Leasing is also used for
the purpose of separating
wraps of yarn on a reel into
groups of specific numbers,
as per requirement.
LEATHER
CLOTH
fabrics A coated fabric which is
embossed to give a
leather-like appearance
A coated fabric which is
embossed to give a leather-
like appearance
LEATHER
FIBRE,
GROUND
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Waste leather ground
into a fibrous state
Waste leather ground into a
fibrous state; plastic resin is
used so the material can be
formed to appear like real
leather.
LEATHERETTE fabrics Coated fabrics which
suggest leather.
Coated fabrics which
suggest leather. The
material is coloured, finished
and embossed to simulate
leather grains and qualities.
It is considered a misnomer.
LEATHERI fabrics The hide or skin of
animals
The hide or skin of animals.
Thickness and type varies
according to its source.
There is a variety of types
and these are listed under
the appropriate name.
Handling is the same for all
types of leather. Leathers
are all skin-shaped as they
come from the animal, so
they vary in size
LEAVERS LACE fabrics Trade name which has
developed into a generic
term
Trade name which has
developed into a generic
term for describing laces
made on a Leavers machine
LEAVERS
MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See under Lace
machines.
See under Lace machines.
LEFT TWIST fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Same as S twist. Same as S twist. See under
Direction of twist.
LEFT-HAND
TWILL
fabrics See under Lace
machines.
See under Lace machines.
LEGS fabrics,
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Sides under Knitted
loop.
1. See Sides under Knitted
loop.
2. In zippers, the two
portions of a separate
482
Word Category Short description Description
element that affix the
element to the bead.
LEICESTER
WOOLS
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Lincoln, Cotswold,
Romney Marsh, Cheviot
wools, etc., spoken of as
long crossbreeds, and
now raised throughout
the world, come in this
group.
Lincoln, Cotswold, Romney
Marsh, Cheviot wools, etc.,
spoken of as long
crossbreeds, and now raised
throughout the world, come
in this group. The fibre
length ranges from 4 to 16
inches, while the fibre
diameter is from 1/700 inch
to 1/950 inch; there are 800
to 1,000 serrations per inch
in the fibres. These hardy
and lustrous wools, which
have the tendency to reflect
light rays, are used in
homespun, tweeds, cheviot,
and Shetland fabrics for
outerwear.
LENGTH
GROUP
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
All fibres, or pulls, whose
lengths fall within a given
length interval.
All fibres, or pulls, whose
lengths fall within a given
length interval.
LENGTH
INTERVAL
general A class interval of 1/8 in.
(3 mm), usually
designated by its
midpoint length in odd-
numbered sixteenths of
an inch.
A class interval of 1/8 in. (3
mm), usually designated by
its midpoint length in odd-
numbered sixteenths of an
inch.
LENGTH OF
LAY
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
In cords and strands, the
actual distance required
to make one 360
revolution in any element
in a strand or cord.
In cords and strands, the
actual distance required to
make one 360 revolution in
any element in a strand or
cord.
LENGTH,
BENDING
fabrics See Bending length. See Bending length.
LENGTHWISE
DIRECTION
fabrics The direction in a
machine-made fabric
parallel to the direction of
movement the fabric
followed in the
manufacturing machine.
The direction in a machine-
made fabric parallel to the
direction of movement the
fabric followed in the
manufacturing machine.
LENO CRPON fabrics Comprising a cotton
crpon background cloth
with leno-weave style
embroidery.
Comprising a cotton crpon
background cloth with leno-
weave style embroidery. It
may be white or in a
contrasting colour and is
483
Word Category Short description Description
usually worked in striped
formation. Used for blouses,
shirts, and dresses. See
also Crpon.
LENO FABRIC fabrics A fabric in which warp
threads have been made
to cross one another,
between picks, during
leno weaving
A fabric in which warp
threads have been made to
cross one another, between
picks, during leno weaving.
The simpler types of
lightweight fabric produced
by this method of weaving
are known as gauze. The
crossing of the warp threads
may be a general feature of
plain leno fabrics (as in
marquisette and some
gauzes and muslins) or may
be used in combination with
other weaves, as in some
cellular fabrics.
LENO
SELVEDGE
fabrics See under Selvedge. See under Selvedge.
LENO VOILE fabrics Plain-weave cotton voile
fabric with an open, leno
weave stripe in it
Plain-weave cotton voile
fabric with an open, leno
weave stripe in it. Soft drapy
fabric. Used for childrens
clothes, blouses, and
nightwear. See also Voile
LENO WEAVE fabrics A type of weave in which
two adjacent warp yarns
cross each other
between the picks
A type of weave in which
two adjacent warp yarns
cross each other between
the picks. In this weave, one
yarn moves alternately from
side to side producing a
cellular hole. This process
can be used to produce a
fancy effect or for more
practical reasons, e.g. the
crossed yarn will introduce
stability into a fine fabric.
Any fibre can be used to
make leno weave cloth.
LEOPARD fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A buff-coloured,
shorthaired flat fur, with
black rosette markings
A buff-coloured, shorthaired
flat fur, with black rosette
markings. Very hardwearing.
LET-OFF MARK defects Fabric defect in woven
fabrics.
Fabric defect in woven
fabrics. A corrugated defect
pattern distributed across
484
Word Category Short description Description
the fabric width, caused by
badly adjusted let-off
motions of a loom.
(Compare Shier.)
LET-OFF
MOTION
processes,
operations
A mechanism for
controlled release and
tension of yarns or
fabrics during an
unwinding operation
A mechanism for controlled
release and tension of yarns
or fabrics during an
unwinding operation. The
device which is driven
mechanically is called
positive let-off motion and
when it is made to operate
otherwise is called negative
let-off motion.
LETONA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A leaf fibre obtained from
the plant agave letonae.
A leaf fibre obtained from
the plant agave letonae.
LETTER PRESS
PRINTING
processes,
operations
The printing of type or
illustrations from an
image raised in relief
The printing of type or
illustrations from an image
raised in relief; the surface is
inked before being pressed
on paper or cloth.
LEUCO DYE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A soluble reduced form
of a dye from which the
original dye may be
regenerated by oxidation.
A soluble reduced form of a
dye from which the original
dye may be regenerated by
oxidation. See also Vat dye
and Sulphur dye
LEUCO
SULPHUR DYE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A sulphur dye
composition
A sulphur dye composition
consisting of the leuco
compound in the presence
of a small excess of a
reducing agent.
LEVEL DYEING processes,
operations
The dyeing of cloth to
produce uniformity of
colour
The dyeing of cloth to
produce uniformity of colour
with no streaks or shaded
areas.
LEVEL PILE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
In pile yarn floor
covering, pile in which all
tuft legs are of
substantially the same
length.
In pile yarn floor covering,
pile in which all tuft legs are
of substantially the same
length.
LEVELLING processes,
operations
The process leading to
more uniform distribution
of a chemical or dye
within a substrate or
between substrates.
The process leading to more
uniform distribution of a
chemical or dye within a
substrate or between
substrates. In dyeing, the
migration of dye molecules
485
Word Category Short description Description
resulting in more uniform
distribution of the dye in the
material. (Compare
Transfer, Migration.)
LIBERTY
PRINTS
fabrics Trade name for certain
exclusively designed
prints
Trade name for certain
exclusively designed prints
usually incorporating many
colours and applied to fine
cotton lawn, thicker dress-
weight cotton, cotton
furnishing fabrics, silk and
fine wool challis.
LIBERTY SATIN fabrics Trade name for a very
soft, piece-dyed satin
fabric, with raw silk warp
and single spun-silk weft.
Used for lingerie, robes,
dresses, wedding gowns,
etc.
Trade name for a very soft,
piece-dyed satin fabric, with
raw silk warp and single
spun-silk weft. Used for
lingerie, robes, dresses,
wedding gowns, etc. Very
soft, so it will gather easily
into soft drape styles.
Slippery to handle
LIFT processes,
operations
In spinning and twisting
processes, the length of
that part of the take-up
package, which is in-
tended to be covered by
roving or yarn.
1. In spinning and twisting
processes, the length of that
part of the take-up package,
which is in-tended to be
covered by roving or yarn.
2. In weaving, a term used
to denote the movement of
those parts of the loom
mechanism associated with
the formation of the shed
and hence, in weaving
diagrams, to denote the
representation of a warp
thread over a weft thread.
3. In weaving, the term is
also used to describe the
movement of shuttle boxes.
LIGHT general Light is a form of
electromagnetic
radiation.
Light is a form of
electromagnetic radiation.
See also Visible light.
LIGHT
BEDFORD
CORD
fabrics See under Bedford cord. See under Bedford cord.
LIGHT END defects See Fine end. See Fine end.
LIGHT
FASTNESS
general The property of a
material, expressed
The property of a material,
expressed usually by an
486
Word Category Short description Description
usually by an assigned
number
assigned number, depicting
a ranked change in its colour
characteristics as a result of
exposure of the material to
sunlight or an artificial light
source.
LIGHT FILLING defects See Thin filling See Thin filling
LIGHT FILLING
BAR
defects See Fine filling bar. See Fine filling bar.
LIGHT PICK defects See Thin filling See Thin filling
LIGHT PLACE defects See Fine filling bar. See Fine filling bar.
LIGHT-FAST general Colour which will not fade
with normal exposure to
sunlight.
Colour which will not fade
with normal exposure to
sunlight. No colour is entirely
fast to light, but some are
more resistant than others
are
LIGHT-
SENSITIVE
VARNISH
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A photographic emulsion
used in the engraved
printing roller industry.
A photographic emulsion
used in the engraved
printing roller industry. It is
usually made of a branded
polyvinyl alcohol (PVA)
emulsion added to a solution
of ammoinium bichromate.
LIGHTWEIGHT
CORDS
fabrics See under Corduroy. See under Corduroy.
LIGNE accessories A standard measure,
equal to 0.635 mm
(0.025 in.) by which
button and ribbons are
measured,
A standard measure, equal
to 0.635 mm (0.025 in.) by
which button and ribbons
are measured, i.e. a 10 ligne
button is one 6.35 mm (1/4
in.) in diameter
LILLE LACE fabrics Very fine textured bobbin
lace, with patterns
outlined in thicker
threads, characterised by
a dotted design.
Very fine textured bobbin
lace, with patterns outlined
in thicker threads,
characterised by a dotted
design. Resembles Mechlin
lace.
LIMBAKI fabrics A synthetic fabric for
swimwear which has a
pile.
A synthetic fabric for
swimwear which has a pile.
Handle as for Lycra.
LIMBRIC fabrics A light weights to
medium weight, closely
woven, plain weave,
cotton cloth made from
good quality yarns.
A light weights to medium
weight, closely woven, plain
weave, cotton cloth made
from good quality yarns. The
weft is coarser and more
closely spaced and has a
487
Word Category Short description Description
lower twist factor than the
warp, thus giving a soft cloth
in which the weft
predominates on both sides.
LIME BOIL processes,
operations
See Bowking. See Bowking.
LIME PROCESS processes,
operations
One of the several
methods of loosening
wool from skins of dead
sheep preparatory to
pulling.
One of the several methods
of loosening wool from skins
of dead sheep preparatory
to pulling. The hide is
painted with lime on the
flesh side in order to loosen
the fibres so that they may
be removed easily.
LIMERICK LACE fabrics An Irish lace, hand-made
or machine-made
An Irish lace, hand-made or
machine-made in which the
patterns are embroidered on
to the net with a darning
stitch. This is a fine lace and
not to be confused with Irish
Lace.
LIMING processes,
operations
The passage of bleached
fabric through milk of
lime.
The passage of bleached
fabric through milk of lime.
LIMITING
OXYGEN INDEX
(LOI)
general See Oxygen index. See Oxygen index.
LIMITING
QUALITY LEVEL
(LQL)
general In acceptance sampling,
the fraction of
nonconforming items at
which the process
average can be
considered barely
tolerable
In acceptance sampling, the
fraction of nonconforming
items at which the process
average can be considered
barely tolerable; the process
average at which the risk of
acceptance is called the
con-sumers risk.
LIMP FABRIC fabrics A fabric which is too soft A fabric which is too soft due
to inadequate amounts or
improper use of finishing
materials.
LINCOLN
SHEEP
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
This lustrous long-wool
breed, originated in
Lincoln County, England
This lustrous long-wool
breed, originated in Lincoln
County, England, possess
the longest staple of any
wool grown
LINE accessories,
defects
CORDAGE. Laid, cabled,
or plaited cordage having
a diameter of less than 4
1. CORDAGE. Laid, cabled,
or plaited cordage having a
diameter of less than 4 mm.
488
Word Category Short description Description
mm. 2. FABRIC DEFECT. A
narrow variation, often only
one thread wide, in the warp
direction
LINE DRY processes,
operations
A method of drying hand
washed or machine
washed articles by
hanging them on a line.
A method of drying hand
washed or machine washed
articles by hanging them on
a line.
LINEAR
DENSITY
general Mass per unit length Mass per unit length; the
quotient obtained by dividing
the mass of a fibre or yarn
by its length.
LINEAR
POLYMER
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A polymer formed by
end-to-end linking of
molecular units.
A polymer formed by end-to-
end linking of molecular
units. The resulting polymer
is very long and narrow. It is
typical of fibrous forms.
LINEN fibers,
filaments,
yarns, fabrics
Yarn, thread or fabric
spun from flax fibres, are
called linen. They are
very strong and have
high lustre
Yarn, thread or fabric spun
from flax fibres, are called
linen. They are very strong
and have high lustre. The
yarn can be used for all
weights of fabric from fine
lawn to suiting and
household furnishings. Now,
linen yarns have been
developed for knitting.
Linen fabric structures are
limited by the degree of
fineness and inextensibility
of the fibre, which in turn
determine the fineness of
the yarn. It is not possible to
spin it as finely as cotton
yarn.
Linen fibres are firmer, more
lustrous, more absorbent
and rigid, and stronger than
cotton. Very du-rable. They
are good conductors of heat,
burns readily, withstand hot
iron and insects. Crease
read-ily, as they are rigid. It
is to be noted that the yarns
may wear with continual
sharp creasing with iron.
Attacked by mildew.
Whereas most fibres
489
Word Category Short description Description
become weaker when wet,
linen becomes 20 %
stronger. It is highly
absorbent but disperses the
moisture into the
atmosphere again, and does
not absorb body odours. It is
there-fore a very
comfortable fabric in tropical
climates. The beauty and
natural lustre of flax is
developed and exploited in
linen damask fabrics used
for table wear. The
unevenness of linen yarn is
an attrac-tive textural feature
in dress fabrics, coupled
with the lustre of the fibre.
See also Flax.
LINEN CANVAS fabrics Close and even weave,
beige coloured canvas of
excellent quality for
tailoring use.
Close and even weave,
beige coloured canvas of
excellent quality for tailoring
use. Used in mens coats in
conjunction with hair canvas.
Collar canvas: An open
weave, plain dark brown
canvas, best made of linen,
but sometimes cotton. It is
very stiff and is used cut on
the cross in case of wide
ones and cut on the straight
in case nar-rower ones, to
interface coat and jacket
collars. Does not fray.
White canvas: An open
weave, slightly stiff fabric
made of cotton or, better
quality, of linen. Used for
white and pale coloured
coats and jackets
LINEN FINISH,
SIMULATED
processes,
operations
Finishes such as
mercerising, calendering,
sizing, applied to cotton
fabric to give it a linen-
like hand.
Finishes such as
mercerising, calendering,
sizing, applied to cotton
fabric to give it a linen-like
hand.
LINEN PROVER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Counting glass. See Counting glass.
490
Word Category Short description Description
LINEN TESTER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Counting glass. See Counting glass.
LINEN TWILL fabrics a twill weave line fabric As the name implies, a twill
weave line fabric, light in
weight and used mainly for
embroidery.
LINEN-LOOK fabrics Made to resemble plain-
weave linen suiting,
which were developed
when linen became very
expensive for dress
wear.
Made to resemble plain-
weave linen suiting, which
were developed when linen
became very expensive for
dress wear. They have the
typical uneven slub yarn and
crisp even finish. Most have
a crease-resist or crease-
recovery finish applied to
them. Fibre content may be
50 % cotton with the
remainder polyester, or they
may be mainly viscose
fibres. Used for shirt-waister
dresses, trousers for men
and women.
LINGERIE fabrics womens undergarments. An old term sometimes used
for cambric, but now refers
to womens undergarments.
LINGERIE KNIT fabrics A very wide tricot fabric,
of all weights, which is
easy to sew.
A very wide tricot fabric, of
all weights, which is easy to
sew. Power net is a two-
way stretch fabric used for
foundation garments.
LINGERIE
RIBBON
accessories Any type of fine and soft
ribbon suitable for use on
ladies underwear.
Any type of fine and soft
ribbon suitable for use on
ladies underwear.
LINING fabrics A fabric used to cover the
inner sides of garments.
Lining fabric is made
from silk, viscose,
acetate, triacetate,
polyester, cupro.
A fabric used to cover the
inner sides of garments.
Lining fabric is made from
silk, viscose, acetate,
triacetate, polyester, cupro.
Fabrics suitable for lining are
either plain weave, satin or
twill and they are usually
slippery to enable the
garment to be put on and off
with ease. The wearing
quality varies with the price.
An inexpensive acetate satin
will wear for only a short
491
Word Category Short description Description
time, but a silk or polyester
satin or pongee will give
long service. The weight of
lining, is chosen to suit the
weight of the fabric and the
quality according to the type
of garment and its
prospective life. For
example, a cheap taffeta
can be used to line an
evening dress. All slippery
linings will fray, so do not cut
it until ready to use it.
Always the lining is made
slightly bigger than the
garment to avoid strain on
lining seams and to avoid a
pulled appearance on the
right side of the garment. If
the lining hem is to be sewn
to the garment hem, the
lining is made slightly longer
to avoid pulling.
LININNESS defects Longitudinal defects Longitudinal defects caused
by structural distortion in
weft-knitted fabric.
LINKING processes,
operations
Also called Looping. Also called Looping. The
process of joining together
the edges of a piece of
fabric or fabrics by a single
or double chainstitch on a
linking machine, in which
one or more of the pieces of
fabric is run onto the points
on a loop-to-point basis and
is therefore stitched through
adjacent needle loops.
Where none of the pieces of
fabric are run onto the points
on a loop-to-point basis, this
id referred to as random
linking.
LINKING
COURSE
processes,
operations
See Slack course See Slack course
LINKING DIAL apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A circular metal plate, in
a linking machine
A circular metal plate, in a
linking machine, with
grooved points round the
edge facing radially
492
Word Category Short description Description
outwards at a determined
frequency (gauge), related
to the loop density of the
knit-work to be seamed.
LINKING
MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The commonest use of
linking machines is for
attaching neck ribs to
knitwear.
The commonest use of
linking machines is for
attaching neck ribs to
knitwear.
LINKS-LINKS fabrics See Fancy purl. See Fancy purl.
LINOLEUM garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A floor covering made of
a composition of oxidised
linseed oil mixed with
ground cork and other
pigments
A floor covering made of a
composition of oxidised
linseed oil mixed with
ground cork and other
pigments, which are rolled
over a burlap base. Made in
solid colours, mottled and
other novelty effects, or
printed or inlaid patterns.
LINSEY fibers,
filaments,
yarns, fabrics
A term once used to
describe any waste or
rags containing wool.
1. A term once used to
describe any waste or rags
containing wool.
2. A coarse fabric with a
cotton warp and a blended
yarn of cotton and waste
wool for the weft. The weave
is plain twill, usually in
stripes across the width.
Used for aprons and
overalls.
LINSEY-
WOLSEY
fabrics Formerly known as
Linsey-woolsey.
A coarse linen fabric.
Formerly known as Linsey-
woolsey.
1. A coarse linen fabric.
2. A strong, coarse fabric
with a linen or cotton warp
and a woollen weft. The
warp is entirely cov-ered by
the weft and has a nap
finish.
LINT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Debris from the textile
fibres which accumulates
in and around the
machinery.
Debris from the textile fibres
which accumulates in and
around the machinery. A
form of waste; fibre
fragments abraded from
textile materials; also loose
short fibres or fluff. See also
c and Waste.
LINT BALL defects See Fuzz ball. See Fuzz ball.
493
Word Category Short description Description
LINT CONTENT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
That portion of a mass of
cotton fibre consisting of
fibre, including normal
moisture content, but
excluding foreign matter.
That portion of a mass of
cotton fibre consisting of
fibre, including normal
moisture content, but
excluding foreign matter.
LINT COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Loose cotton fibres in
any form, either raw or
processed
Loose cotton fibres in any
form, either raw or
processed, free of seeds
and not bound together in
yarn or fabric. See also
Ginned lint
LINT DOCTOR apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A steel blade positioned
at the back of an
engraved roller-printing
machine
A steel blade positioned at
the back of an engraved
roller-printing machine to
scrape off any fluff after
printing.
LINTERS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibres of very short
staple length
Fibres of very short staple
length, adhering to the
cottonseed after the
spinnable lint has been
removed by ginning and
which is subsequently
recovered from the seed by
a process called delinting.
This short fibrous material is
unsuitable for spinning.
LIPASESE See under Enzymes See under Enzymes
LIQUID
AMMONIA
TREATMENT
processes,
operations
A later development on
mercerising.
A later development on
mercerising. This process
produces some of the
effects of mercerisation. See
also Mercerising.
LIQUOR RATIO processes,
operations
See Liquor : goods ratio. See Liquor : goods ratio.
LIQUOR:
GOODS RATIO
(LR)
processes,
operations
Also called Goods ratio,
Liquor ratio.
Also called Goods ratio,
Liquor ratio. The ratio of the
weight of liquor employed in
any treatment to the weight
of material treated.
LIRELLE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Trade name for a
polyester fibre with high
degree of wet strength.
Trade name for a polyester
fibre with high degree of wet
strength. It is used on its
own to make all types of
fabric and it also blends well
with fibres such as cotton.
LISLE fibers,
filaments,
THREAD. A highly
twisted, plied, usually 2-
1. THREAD. A highly
twisted, plied, usually 2-ply,
494
Word Category Short description Description
yarns, fabrics ply, good quality cotton
hosiery yarn, spun
generally in fine counts
good quality cotton hosiery
yarn, spun generally in fine
counts. All lisle threads are
gassed and some may be
mercerised. Formerly a lisle
thread was a plied yarn
having singles of opposite
twist.
2. FABRIC. Now
superseded by finer
synthetics, it was originally a
knitted material made with
cotton lisle yarns. It was
used in large quantities,
especially in France, for
womens stockings before
the in-vention of nylon.
LIST fabrics See Selvedge. See Selvedge.
LISTING fabrics,
defects
See Selvedge. 1. See Selvedge.
2. An undesirable uneven
dyeing effect consisting of a
variation in colour between
selvedges and the centre of
a dyed fabric, often caused
in jig dyeing through
difference of temperature
between sel-vedges and the
centre of the batched-up
fabric on the jig-roller, or by
uneven batching-up of the
cloth on the rollers.
3. Spindle tape. A woven
narrow fabric of width not
greater than 50 mm, usually
of high warp den-sity and
designed for transmission of
power to the spindle
wharves of a small diameter,
e.g. on tex-tile spinning and
twisting machinery.
LITHOGRAPHIC
PRINTING
processes,
operations
Printing from pigment
colour adhering to a
mixed-wax printed
pattern on the level
surface
Printing from pigment colour
adhering to a mixed-wax
printed pattern on the level
surface; as distinct from
intaglio or relief images.
Now rarely used directly on
to fabric.
LIVELY YARN fibers, See Snarly yarn. See Snarly yarn.
495
Word Category Short description Description
filaments,
yarns
LIVERPOOL
POCKET
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A ticket pocket backed
with an inside welt.
A ticket pocket backed with
an inside welt.
LIZARD fabrics A rigid snake skin,
available usually as a
trimming.
A rigid snake skin, available
usually as a trimming.
Mainly used for shoes and
handbags.
LLAMA fibers,
filaments,
yarns, fabrics
The hair of the fleece of
llama, an animal of the
camel family similar to
alpaca, but slightly larger
in size, found in South
America.
The hair of the fleece of
llama, an animal of the
camel family similar to
alpaca, but slightly larger in
size, found in South
America. These animals
produce long hair, up to 300
mm, depending on the
shearing interval. The hair is
mixed in quality and colour,
white, grey, fawn, brown and
even black. In general the
hair is softer and less
resilient than mohair, but not
as soft as camel or
cashmere and has a passing
lustre. It makes attractive
fabrics which are not as
expensive as those made
from camel and cashmere
hair. Used in suitings,
coatings, blankets and rugs.
LOAD general To apply a force. To apply a force.
Deprecated term; use the
preferred term Force.
LOAD AT
SPECIFIED
ELONGATION
general The force required to
produce a specified
percentage elongation.
The force required to
produce a specified
percentage elongation.
LOAD
DEFORMATION
CURVE
general In textile testing, a
relationship between the
change in a dimension
(in the direction of the
applied force) of the
specimen, as a result of
the use of an external
load and the magnitude
of that load, expressed
graphically.
In textile testing, a
relationship between the
change in a dimension (in
the direction of the applied
force) of the specimen, as a
result of the use of an
external load and the
magnitude of that load,
expressed graphically.
The load may be expressed
in pounds or grams, and the
496
Word Category Short description Description
deformation in inches or
centimetres in compression
or tensile tests.
In tensile tests, the load-
deformation curve becomes
a load-elongation curve or a
stress-strain curve, if the
load is divided by the linear
density of the fibre, yarn or
fabric and the extension is
plotted as a percentage of
the original sample length.
LOADING processes,
operations
Increasing the weight of
fabrics by addition of
various substances
during finishing.
Increasing the weight of
fabrics by addition of various
substances during finishing.
LOAFT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A term used to describe
the springiness of wool
A term used to describe the
springiness of wool as it
resumes its normal position
after it has been squeezed.
LOCK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A tuft of wool A tuft of wool
LOCK THREAD
CANVAS
fabrics A lattice-effect
embroidery canvas
A lattice-effect embroidery
canvas, very rigid and kept
flat by warp threads locked
round the weft threads to
avoid movement.
LOCK-STITCH general The simple type of
lockstitch is formed with
two threads, a needle
thread and a bobbin
thread
The simple type of lockstitch
is formed with two threads, a
needle thread and a bobbin
thread, normally balanced
so that the interlacing of the
two threads is mid-way
between the surfaces of the
material being sewn. There
are other types of lockstitch
having more than one
needle thread.
LOCKNIT fabrics A fabric made on a warp-
knitting machine
A fabric made on a warp-
knitting machine with one
needle bar and two full-set
guide bars, with specifically
controlled movements of the
front and back guide-bars.
LODEN CLOTH fabrics Originated from Austria
and still associated with
Originated from Austria and
still associated with the
497
Word Category Short description Description
the country, this is a thick
heavy fabric woven from
the fleeces of mountain
sheep.
country, this is a thick heavy
fabric woven from the
fleeces of mountain sheep.
Is soft and thick and
characteristically dark green
in colour. The fabric is also
waterproof, because the
rough wool used is oily and
coarse and prevents water
penetration. Used a great
deal in mountainous
countries for warmth, and all
countries for coats, caps,
and duffle coats.
LOFTY fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A term applied to an
assemblage of springy
and fluffy fibres
A term applied to an
assemblage of springy and
fluffy fibres, with a relatively
high degree of openness
and resilience, or a large
volume for a given mass.
LOG WOOD apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A black dyestuff obtained
from a tree grown mainly
in Central and South
America.
A black dyestuff obtained
from a tree grown mainly in
Central and South America.
It requires a mordant to unite
it to the fabric.
LOI general See Limiting oxygen
index
See Limiting oxygen index
LONDON
SHRUNK
processes,
operations
A process for shrinking
wool cloth before tailoring
is begun.
A process for shrinking wool
cloth before tailoring is
begun. It consists of hot-
and-cold water treat-ment,
natural drying and pressing
without stretching of the
fabric, to allow it to assume
its relaxed state so as to
avoid shrinking later.
LONG AND
SHORT STITCH
general Alternating long and
short stitches used to fill
in parts of a design or as
a darning stitch.
Alternating long and short
stitches used to fill in parts
of a design or as a darning
stitch.
LONG KNOT defects In raw silk, knots which
have loose ends from 3
to 25 mm in length.
In raw silk, knots which have
loose ends from 3 to 25 mm
in length.
LONG SLUG defects In raw silk, a slug which
exceeds 10 mm in length
or which is very much
larger in diameter than
In raw silk, a slug which
exceeds 10 mm in length or
which is very much larger in
diameter than the yarn.
498
Word Category Short description Description
the yarn.
LONG STAPLE
COTTON
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Cotton fibres 11/3 inches
or longer.
Cotton fibres 11/3 inches or
longer.
LONG WOOLS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Those wools which
average in length
between 1 to 6 inches in
staple length.
Those wools which average
in length between 1 to 6
inches in staple length.
LONG-STITCH general A synonym for Satin
stitch.
A synonym for Satin stitch.
LONGCLOTH fabrics An old-fashioned term
referring to the first fabric
to be produced in long
lengths and rolled.
An old-fashioned term
referring to the first fabric to
be produced in long lengths
and rolled. If this term is
used now, it simply means a
plain-weave cotton, mainly
used for handkerchiefs.
LOOK-OVER general An inspector, percher,
and final inspector of a
fabric.
An inspector, percher, and
final inspector of a fabric.
LOOM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A mechanical device
which inter-weave yarns
into a fabric.
A mechanical device which
inter-weave yarns into a
fabric. Usually there are two
sets of yarns which are
interlaced and these sets
are called warp and weft.
There are many types of
looms, handloom, treadle
loom, power loom; the term
loom means any weaving
machine.
LOOM
EFFEICIENCY
general The percentage loom
running time during
normal working hours
The percentage loom
running time during normal
working hours
LOOM FIGURED fabrics Fabrics having a woven
design produced in the
weaving process
Fabrics having a woven
design produced in the
weaving process, such as
dobby, J acquard, swivel, as
distinguished from printed,
embroidered or appliqud
pattern.
LOOM
FINISHED
fabrics Fabric marketed in the
condition in which it
comes from the loom
Fabric marketed in the
condition in which it comes
from the loom, and which is
given no further finishing.
LOOM FLY defects Also called Flyer. Fabric
defect.
Also called Flyer. Fabric
defect. Waste fibres created
499
Word Category Short description Description
during weaving, that are
woven into the fabric, or
spun into the yarn.
LOOM GOODS fabrics Same as Greige goods
or Grey goods.
Same as Greige goods or
Grey goods.
LOOM
PRODUCTION
fabrics The output of a loom in
sq. yards/unit time.
The output of a loom in sq.
yards/unit time.
LOOM SPEED apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Usually measured in
picks/min.
Usually measured in
picks/min.
LOOM TIMING apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The synchronization of
the various loom
functions
The synchronization of the
various loom functions so
that they occur in the proper
sequence and at the proper
relative times.
LOOM WIDTH apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Width in reed. See Width in reed.
LOOM-STATE fabrics The state of a woven
fabric when it is just
removed from the loom.
The state of a woven fabric
when it is just removed from
the loom.
LOOMING processes,
operations
A term covering the
processes involved in the
preparing a weavers
beam for the loom
A term covering the
processes involved in the
preparing a weavers beam
for the loom, e.g. drawing-in,
dropper-pinning, sleying,
knotting, tying, etc.
LOONGEE fabrics Also called Lungi Also called Lungi
LOOP defects See Curl. See Curl.
LOOP DENSITY fabrics The number of loops
within an area of fabric
expressed as loops per
cm2 or loops per in2.
The number of loops within
an area of fabric expressed
as loops per cm2 or loops
per in2.
LOOP FORMING
SINKERS
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See under Sinkers. See under Sinkers.
LOOP LENGTH fabrics In pile structures, the
continuous length of yarn
or fibres
In pile structures, the
continuous length of yarn or
fibres between two
successive lowest points of
bindings of the pile in a
substrate.
LOOP PILE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under Pile in carpet See under Pile in carpet
LOOP RUCHE accessories See under Ruche. See under Ruche.
500
Word Category Short description Description
LOOP
SELVEDGE
fabrics This selvedge retains the
count at the edges of
cloth
This selvedge retains the
count at the edges of cloth,
the same as body of the
cloth. Loop selvedge is
principally used by the
coating trade.
LOOP STITCH general A type of hand stitch
used for oversewing
edges
A type of hand stitch used
for oversewing edges so as
not to increase their
thickness by having an edge
turned in.
LOOP
TRANSFER
processes,
operations
In knitting, the process of
moving loops, wholly or
in part
In knitting, the process of
moving loops, wholly or in
part, from the needles on
which they were made to
other needles for the
purpose of shaping or
design
LOOP WHEEL
KNITTING
MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A circular weft knitting
machine
A circular weft knitting
machine in which, knitting
takes place on a set of
vertically mounted bearded
needles, the yarn being
manipulated with the aid of
bladed wheels.
LOOP YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Curled yarn. See Curled yarn.
LOOP-RAISED
FABRIC
fabrics A fabric produced from
continuous filament
yarns,
A fabric produced from
continuous filament yarns,
generally polyamide, in
which the long under-laps of
the front or middle bar(s) are
raised during finishing to
form a pile of unbroken
filaments.
LOOPED PILE
FLOOR
COVERING
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A pile floor covering in
which the pile is
composed of uncut loops
only.
A pile floor covering in which
the pile is composed of
uncut loops only.
LOOPED
SELVEDGES
defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Looped
selvedges are caused by
poor or uneven shuttle
tension, improperly twisted
weft yarn, poorly wound weft
bobbins, poor or unbalanced
timing of the harness frames
501
Word Category Short description Description
of the loom, waste
accumulation, chiefly among
the loom dropwires on the
respective warp yarns.
LOOPED YARN defects See Kink See Kink
LOOPER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In sewing machine. An
element on chain stitch
machines that is
instrumental in forming
loops but does not pass
through the fabric being
seamed.
In sewing machine. An
element on chain stitch
machines that is
instrumental in forming loops
but does not pass through
the fabric being seamed.
Loopers may themselves
carry threads that form loop
series or may simply aid the
formation of needle loops.
LOOPER WIRE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Edge wire. See Edge wire.
LOOPING processes,
operations
See Linking. See Linking.
LOOPLESS TOE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The length of yarn in one
loop of a simple weft
knitted fabric
The length of yarn in one
loop of a simple weft knitted
fabric, usually expressed as
an average of several or
many measured loops.
LOOPY EDGE defects See Loopy selvedge See Loopy selvedge
LOOPY
SELVEDGE
defects Fabric defect. Also called
Beaded selvedge,
Corded selvedge, Loopy
edge, Rough selvedge.
Fabric defect. Also called
Beaded selvedge, Corded
selvedge, Loopy edge,
Rough selvedge. An
improperly woven selvedge
of uneven width or a selvage
containing irregular weft
loops extending beyond the
outside selvedges.
LOOPY YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A textured yarn that is
essentially free of stretch
A textured yarn that is
essentially free of stretch
and that is characterised by
a relatively large number of
randomly spaced and
randomly sized loops along
the fibres or filaments. See
also Bulk yarn, Textured
yarn.
LOOSE
COURSE
defects Fabric defect, in knitted
fabrics.
Fabric defect, in knitted
fabrics. A row of loops in the
widthwise direction that is
502
Word Category Short description Description
larger, looser, or longer,
than the stitches in the main
body of the fabric.
LOOSE EDGE defects See Slack selvedge. See Slack selvedge.
LOOSE PICK defects See Slack pick See Slack pick
LOST ENDS defects See Sleepers See Sleepers
LOT general A production unit or a
group of other units or
packages which is used
for sampling or statistical
examination.
A production unit or a group
of other units or packages
which is used for sampling
or statistical examination. A
lot has one or more
properties in common and is
easily separated from other
similar units.
LOT SAMPLE general One or more shipping
units taken at random to
represent a consignment
One or more shipping units
taken at random to
represent a consignment,
shipment or lot, for use in
the preparation of the
laboratory samples
LOURING processes,
operations
In hat manufacture, the
improvement in the lustre
of felt hoods or bodies
In hat manufacture, the
improvement in the lustre of
felt hoods or bodies by the
application of fat using a hot
pad.
LOUSINE fabrics Plain silk fabric with a
glossy texture, and a
coarse surface like a very
small basket weave.
Plain silk fabric with a glossy
texture, and a coarse
surface like a very small
basket weave. It now often
contains synthetic fibres
rather than silk. Used for
dresses and coat linings.
Hardwearing.
LOUSINESS defects Also called Exfoliation Also called Exfoliation. An
inherent fault in silk only
apparent after degumming
or dyeing. It id characterised
by fine fibrils of fibrillae that
become separated from the
filament, so giving a
speckled, dishevelled
appearance.
LOUVER CLOTH fabrics A woven, netting fabric
having a mesh size less
than 12 by 12, made
from coated glass yarn
A woven, netting fabric
having a mesh size less
than 12 by 12, made from
coated glass yarn
LOVAT fabrics greeny-gray. Although this really
503
Word Category Short description Description
describes a colour, it is often
used for woollen overcoating
fabric of good quality in
typical lovat colour, which is
greeny-gray.
LOVE fabrics A very sheer, plain silk
fabric made in U.K.
A very sheer, plain silk fabric
made in U.K.
LOW CHARGED
SYSTEM
processes,
operations
See under Charged
system
See under Charged system
LOW
ORIENTATION
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn of low molecular
orientation suitable for
orientation by drawing at
a high ratio
A yarn of low molecular
orientation suitable for
orientation by drawing at a
high ratio. This term is used
in contrast to Partially
oriented yarn and Fully
oriented yarn.
LOW-POWER
STRETCH
fabrics That property of a fabric
whereby it exhibits high
fabric stretch and good
recovery from low loads.
That property of a fabric
whereby it exhibits high
fabric stretch and good
recovery from low loads.
LOWE SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
An experimental yarn
developed in the early
20th century, it was
made of a silk filament
surrounded with a rayon
solution.
An experimental yarn
developed in the early 20th
century, it was made of a
silk filament surrounded with
a rayon solution. The
resulting fibre was one
continuous filament which
took dye well and possessed
the hand and lustre of silk.
LOWRY fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A cylindrical cotton bale
made from continuous
flat coil
A cylindrical cotton bale
made from continuous flat
coil, fastened with wire ties
and covered with bagging.
Its average weight is 250
pounds.
LOY fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Low oriented yarn. See Low oriented yarn.
LOZENGE fabrics See Diamond See Diamond
LR processes,
operations
See Liquor : goods ratio See Liquor : goods ratio
LUBRICATED
YARNS
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Man-made yarns which
have been soaked or
treated with a lubricant
Man-made yarns which have
been soaked or treated with
a lubricant so that they will
knit more smoothly. Natural
fibres may also be
lubricated.
504
Word Category Short description Description
LUCET apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Also called Chain fork. Also called Chain fork. A
lyre-shaped hand tool of
ancient origin, used for
making square knitted cords.
LUCETTED
CORD
accessories Square knitted cord
produced with the aid of
a lucet.
Square knitted cord
produced with the aid of a
lucet.
LUG apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Bail. See Bail.
LUGGAGE
CLOTH
fabrics Any fabric employed on
luggage.
Any fabric employed on
luggage. Includes coated
cotton fabrics, man-made
fibre fabrics and plastics, in
a variety of weights and
qualities.
LUMEN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The central longitudinal
canal or cavity in
vegetable fibres such as
cotton.
The central longitudinal
canal or cavity in vegetable
fibres such as cotton.
LUMINANCE general In a coloured object,
luminance is a measure
of the apparent overall
reflectance.
In a coloured object,
luminance is a measure of
the apparent overall
reflectance. For a light
source is a measure of the
apparent brightness of the
light
LUMP defects,
fabrics
Yarn defect. See Slub,
Slug.
1. Yarn defect. See Slub,
Slug.
2. A length of unfinished
cloth, usually longer than the
customary piece length.
LUREX fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Trade name for a metallic
yarn, produced in various
colours by coating thin
sheets of aluminium on
both sides, using a
thermoplastic resin.
Trade name for a metallic
yarn, produced in various
colours by coating thin
sheets of aluminium on both
sides, using a thermoplastic
resin. The yarn is slippery
and breaks easily but will not
tarnish. It can be
incorporated into a variety of
woven and knitted fabrics; it
is used for embroidering
fabrics and it is also made
into a sewing thread
LUSTERING processes,
operations
See Lustring. See Lustring.
505
Word Category Short description Description
LUSTRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns, fabrics
A property describing the
brilliance of light
reflection from the
surface of yarn or fabric.
A property describing the
brilliance of light reflection
from the surface of yarn or
fabric.
LUSTRE
WOOLS
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A group of five major
wools (Lincoln, Leicester,
Romney Marsh, and
Cheviot) which originated
in the U.K., but, are now
grown all over the world
A group of five major wools
(Lincoln, Leicester, Romney
Marsh, and Cheviot) which
originated in the U.K., but,
are now grown all over the
world. There are many sub-
types, because of cross-
breeding. These wools
reflect the rays of light, are
rugged, harsh, hardy and
make ideal yarn for
homespun, tweed, cheviot,
and Shetland fabrics,
coating, and cap cloth of the
English type.
LUSTRING processes,
operations
A finishing process which
produces lustre on yarns
or cloth
A finishing process which
produces lustre on yarns or
cloth by heat, pressure,
steam and friction
calendering with or without
chemical aids. Also called
Lustering
LUXOR fabrics A soft, ribbed,
heavyweight silk-satin
A soft, ribbed, heavyweight
silk-satin or double-faced
peau de soie of subdued
lustre.
LYCRA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Trade name for a two-
way stretch spandex
fibre. It has remarkable
elasticity and instant
recovery
Trade name for a two-way
stretch spandex fibre. It has
remarkable elasticity and
instant recovery. It is very
strong and withstands
repeated wash and wear. It
has a high resistance to
abrasion, but its low
absorbency enables articles
to dry quickly. Fabrics have
a neat, flat appearance. The
fibre is resistant to
perspiration and is nit
affected by seawater. It is
mixed with other fibres, only
a small percentage required
to provide the necessary
stretch, recovery and
506
Word Category Short description Description
holding power. Used for
foundation garments, tights,
sport and exercise wear,
swimwear and narrow
stretch fabrics.
LYE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
An alkaline liquid used
for scouring textile
material.
An alkaline liquid used for
scouring textile material.
LYNX fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Silky, soft long fur of this
wild cat; colors vary from
fawn to grey.
Silky, soft long fur of this
wild cat; colors vary from
fawn to grey.
LYOCELL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Generic name attributed
to the very important and
latest fibre, which is of
great interest. It is
biodegradable and
hence, environmental
friendly.
Generic name attributed to
the very important and latest
fibre, which is of great
interest. It is biodegradable
and hence, environmental
friendly. It is an unique,
natural, solvent-spun, 100 %
cellulose fibre developed in
the later half of twentieth
century, for apparel and
home fashion. Fibre has
exceptional strength in wet
or dry state. Has the natural
absorbency and comfort of
cotton and the strength and
ease of care of a synthetic -
yet it is neither a cotton nor
a synthetic. Blends easily
with all other fibres. Has the
sheen and look of fine
mercerised cotton with the
drape and fluidity and colour
richness of rayon, and other
silk-like fabrics, but offer
good care characteristics.
Lyocell fibres are made
entirely of cellulose of wood
pulp from trees that are
grown on managed
forestlands (unsuitable for
crops and grazing), which
are constantly replanted,
specifically for this purpose.
In comparison to
conventional regenerated
cellulose fibres, the lyocell
fibre has no skin core
507
Word Category Short description Description
structure rather it is made up
of fibrils of similar thickness
across entire cross-section.
This fib-rillar structure is
formed when the cellulose is
precipitated out of the
spinning solution as a result
of a spinodal decomposition
process and is responsible
for the excellent properties
of the lyocell fibre. Lyocell
fibres can be optimised to a
large extent for the
appropriate application with
respect to the titre, cut
length and mechanical
properties. See also Tencel
LYONS GOLD
THREAD
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Gold thread See under Gold thread
LYONS VELVET fabrics Fine quality thick velvet
fabric with a stiff, erect,
high pile.
Fine quality thick velvet
fabric with a stiff, erect, high
pile. The backing may be
visible through the pile but it
is a good quality fabric. The
backing is made from silk or
sometimes linen, viscose or
cotton. The pile is silk.

M

Word Category Short description Description
MACARONI YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Hollow-
filament yarn.
See under Hollow-filament
yarn.
MACCLESFIELD SILK fabrics High-textured,
hardwearing spin silk
High-textured, hardwearing
spin silk. The silk yarn is
twisted to give a crpy
texture. Fabric is tra-
ditionally striped or small-
patterned. Used for mens
ties and womens classic
shirts. Fairly crisp.
MACE SNAG TEST general A means of evaluating
the snagging
performance of a
A means of evaluating the
snagging performance of a
fabric in its ultimate use. A
508
Word Category Short description Description
fabric in its ultimate
use.
representative specimen of
the fabric to be tested is
mounted on a revolving
drum; the spikes of a
miniature mace track at
random across the sample
MACHINE BARR defects Also called Feeder
variation. Fabric
defect.
Also called Feeder
variation. Fabric defect. A
course which differs in
appearance from normal
courses in a fabric knitted
on a multi-feeder machine.
It is caused by one feeder
not delivering the same
length of yarn as the other
feeders.
MACHINE COTTON accessories A term used in the
U.K. for cotton thread
for sewing machines
A term used in the U.K. for
cotton thread for sewing
machines
MACHINE DRAW
RATIO
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Draw ratio. See under Draw ratio.
MACHINE
ENGRAVING
processes,
operations
See Mill engraving See Mill engraving
MACHINE FINISHING processes,
operations
See under Boarding. See under Boarding.
MACHINE STOP defects Also called Heavy
colour. Printing defect.
Excess colour
smudged in a
widthways band.
Also called Heavy colour.
Printing defect. Excess
colour smudged in a
widthways band. It is often
caused by the stopping of a
printing machine allowing
more paste than normal to
penetrate the fabric.
MACHINE TWIST fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A thread processsed
for use on sewing
machines.
A thread processsed for
use on sewing machines.
MACHINE
WASHABLE
fabrics A textile article that
can be washed in a
domestic washing
machine
A textile article that can be
washed in a domestic
washing machine to
remove dirt and other
extraneous substances
using an aqueous
detergent solution.
MACHINE-MADE general An article that is made
entirely by machine
An article that is made
entirely by machine, as
distinguished from
509
Word Category Short description Description
handmade and hand-
finished.
MACKINAC fabrics See Mackinaw. See Mackinaw.
MACKINAW fabrics Sometimes called
mackinac, this is a
heavy woollen fabric,
heavily felted and
napped on both sides,
so that no weave is
apparent on the
surface.
Sometimes called
mackinac, this is a heavy
woollen fabric, heavily
felted and napped on both
sides, so that no weave is
apparent on the surface.
The construction is similar
to Melton, except that
Mackinaw is often woven in
large checks and in coarser
woolen yarns. Used in cold
climates for blankets,
cloaks, and lumber jackets.
In addition to cheaper
woolen yarn, other fibres
such as cotton and waste
yarns may be included.
MACKINTOSH fabrics A waterproof coating
no longer in use,
which was named
after its inventor.
A waterproof coating no
longer in use, which was
named after its inventor. It
was rubber on cotton with
adhesive to join the two.
The rubber perished in a
short time and the fabric
could not breathe and so
caused condensation. Now
the name mackintosh has
become generic to a water-
proof coat, whatever the
fabric.
MACO YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A cotton yarn made of
natural coloured
Egyptian staple fibre.
A cotton yarn made of
natural coloured Egyptian
staple fibre.
MACRAM LACE fabrics A revived craft with
modern application,
this was originally a
Spanish knotted lace
in geometric patterns,
often with fringed
ends.
A revived craft with modern
application, this was
originally a Spanish knotted
lace in geometric patterns,
often with fringed ends. Any
thread, yarn, wool or string
may be used to produce
fine or coarse designs. The
threads are anchored to a
board which may have a
paper pattern on it. Motifs
may be made or complete
510
Word Category Short description Description
items such as mats, bags,
etc.
MACROMOLECULE general A large molecule
formed by hooking
together many small
molecular units.
A large molecule formed by
hooking together many
small molecular units. The
term can be used
synonymously with
polymolecule or polymer.
MADAPOLAM fabrics A bleached or dyed
plain cotton fabric with
a soft finish in any of a
wide range of qualities
used for ladies wear.
A bleached or dyed plain
cotton fabric with a soft
finish in any of a wide
range of qualities used for
ladies wear.
MADRAS COTTON fabrics Soft cotton fabric,
rather like gingham,
but including more
colors
Soft cotton fabric, rather
like gingham, but including
more colors. Is often rough
and unfinished and colors
bleed when washed. It is
also inclined to fade.
MADRAS MUSLIN fabrics A gauze fabric with an
extra weft, which is
bound into the gauze
texture in the figured
parts and cut away
elsewhere.
A gauze fabric with an extra
weft, which is bound into
the gauze texture in the
figured parts and cut away
elsewhere. It has a fine and
open gauze foundation of
cotton, with figured textures
and design in thick, soft,
spun, weft threads. In
better quality fabric, two or
more different colors are
introduced. An inexpensive
fabric, used for saris,
blouses, nightwear.
Creases easily. Often in
border designs. Gathers
and drapes well in full
styles. See also Muslin.
MADRAS SHIRTING fabrics Fine, lightweight, and
often colorful, cotton
fabric of better quality
than Madras cotton.
Fine, lightweight, and often
colorful, cotton fabric of
better quality than Madras
cotton. Fabric is plain with
woven stripes in satin
weave, which may be in
another fibre such as
viscose, or in an expensive
fabric, like silk. Used for
mens shirts, womens
dresses. Often a one-way
511
Word Category Short description Description
stripe.
MAGANANERIC general A room or building
where silkworms are
raised.
A room or building where
silkworms are raised.
MAGAZINE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A device capable of
holding many yarn
packages.
A device capable of holding
many yarn packages.
MAGAZINE
CREELING
processes,
operations
A special form of creel
in which the tail end of
one package is tied to
the leading end of the
next.
A special form of creel in
which the tail end of one
package is tied to the
leading end of the next.
MAGAZINE LOOM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A type of automatic
loom in which the loom
takes the empty
bobbin from the shuttle
and auto-matically
replaces it with a new,
full bobbin into the
same shuttle.
A type of automatic loom in
which the loom takes the
empty bobbin from the
shuttle and auto-matically
replaces it with a new, full
bobbin into the same
shuttle. This exchange is
made without stopping the
loom. In this case, the
weaver is restricted to one
shuttle and one colour warp
yarn (called battery type).
Another new type, can use
four colours in the warp.
These type looms speed
production and one weaver
can be made responsible
for 24 to 48 automatic
looms.
MAGNET-ROLL
SYSTEM
processes,
operations
A method, used in
some screen printing
machines
A method, used in some
screen printing machines,
whereby squeegees (in the
form of cylindrical metal
rods, varying in diameter
from 3 to 18 mm., placed
loosely in the screen with
the printpaste), are moved
along by means of magnet
coils under the printing
blanket, which draw the
printpaste through the
mesh of the screen.
MAGYAR SLEEVE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A sleeve which is cut
integrally with the body
of the garment, the
two sections being
A sleeve which is cut
integrally with the body of
the garment, the two
sections being joined from
512
Word Category Short description Description
joined from neck to
wrist over the shoulder
and from side-seam to
wrist.
neck to wrist over the
shoulder and from side-
seam to wrist. Wedge-
shaped pieces are inserted
un-der the arm to allow
freedom of movement.
MAIL CLOTH fabrics A highly finished,
heavyweight silk fabric
woven in a
honeycomb effect.
A highly finished,
heavyweight silk fabric
woven in a honeycomb
effect. Used for embroidery
foundations.
MAIL NET fabrics A net made in a leno
weave, which
produces a mesh,
which looks triangular.
A net made in a leno
weave, which produces a
mesh, which looks
triangular.
MAIN SHAFT apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Most sewing machines
are belt driven and the
driver pulley is
attached to a shaft in
the machine.
Most sewing machines are
belt driven and the driver
pulley is attached to a shaft
in the machine. This is the
main shaft and from its
rotation, all the movements
of the mechanisms are
derived.
MAINTENANCE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Fibre
properties
See under Fibre properties
MAJ OR DEFECT defects See under Defect. See under Defect.
MAJ OR DEFECTS IN
GARMENT
defects See under Garment
defects.
See under Garment
defects.
MAKE fabrics A term applied to the
construction of fabric.
A term applied to the
construction of fabric.
MAKE THROUGH processes,
operations
The traditional method
of garment
manufacture
The traditional method of
garment manufacture, in
which one operator
completely assembles one
garment at a time
MAKING-UP processes,
operations
The conversion of
fabrics into garments.
The conversion of fabrics
into garments.
MALABAR fabrics An Indian cotton fabric
made in very bright
colours
An Indian cotton fabric
made in very bright colours,
used almost entirely in the
manufacture of
handkerchiefs. It creases
easily.
MALBOROUGH fabrics A very smooth French
wool serge with small
designs.
A very smooth French wool
serge with small designs.
Made with hard twist, single
513
Word Category Short description Description
warp, with an
approximately equal
number of ends and picks
per inch. This fabric is also
made in England where it is
called Marlborough
MALIMO fabrics A type of fabric
constructed and
produced at great
speed by using three
sets of yarns; warp
yarns, weft yarns laid
across the warp, and a
third system, which
stitches them together.
A type of fabric constructed
and produced at great
speed by using three sets
of yarns; warp yarns, weft
yarns laid across the warp,
and a third system, which
stitches them together.
Technically this fabric is
neither woven nor knitted.
Is very stable, and does not
move or give. It is often
ribbed in appearance. It is
mainly acrylic but other
fibres may be used. Used
for curtains, tablecloths for
indoors and out,
bedspreads, chair covers.
As yet, it is not attractive as
dress fabric. Inclined to pill
if subjected to constant
wear. Also called Stitch
bonded fabric
MALINES fabrics One of the very oldest
types of fabric.
One of the very oldest
types of fabric. The term is
used to describe a variety
of fine diaphanous silk, lace
and net fabrics.
MALINO fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A strong, very long
leaf fibre obtained
from the aloe plant in
Hawaii.
A strong, very long leaf
fibre obtained from the aloe
plant in Hawaii. Used for
cordage.
MALMAL fabrics See Mulmul. See Mulmul.
MALTESE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A fine yellow silk
thread formerly used
in England to secure
gold threads
embroidery.
A fine yellow silk thread
formerly used in England to
secure gold threads
embroidery.
MALTESE
EMBROIDERY
processes,
operations
Needlework consisting
of small tassels
worked over a surface
of heavy materials.
Needlework consisting of
small tassels worked over a
surface of heavy materials.
Used for bedspreads and
curtains.
514
Word Category Short description Description
MALTESE LACE fabrics Similar to cluny lace
in appearance,
Maltese lace is heavy
and often incorporates
regular wheel designs
and squares.
Similar to cluny lace in
appearance, Maltese lace
is heavy and often
incorporates regular wheel
designs and squares. Used
mainly in small areas such
as corners of handkerchiefs
and table linen.
MAMMAL fabrics A general term used in
India and China for
fine, plain muslins.
A general term used in
India and China for fine,
plain muslins.
MAN-MADE FIBRES fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called
Manufactured fibre. All
fibres and filaments
manufactured by man,
as distinct from the
naturally occurring
fibres.
Also called Manufactured
fibre. All fibres and
filaments manufactured by
man, as distinct from the
naturally occurring fibres. A
class name for various
genera of fibres (including
filaments) produced from
fibre-forming substances
which may be natural
polymer (modified or
transformed natural
polymers) synthetic
polymer (polymers
synthesized by man from
simple chemical
compounds) or others, viz.
glasses, etc.
First generation man-made
fibres: Regenerated natural
polymers as opposed to
completely syn-thesized
materials. The basic
technology for man-made
fibres are inventions of
chemists. The first phase of
development of these fibres
supplemented and
simulated those grown by
nature. These fi-bres were
made in only one form.
Second generation man-
made fibres: Modified fibres
with improvements in both
performance and aesthetic
characteristics. Fibres
designed for any particular
end use; generic fibres
515
Word Category Short description Description
made in many forms each
intended to be applied to a
particular product.
Third generation man-made
fibres: Custom tailored
fibres for specialized
markets. The qualities of
performance and aesthetics
are built into the fibres in
the production stage.
MAN-MADE STAPLE
FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibre of spinnable
length manufactured
directly or by cutting
filaments.
Fibre of spinnable length
manufactured directly or by
cutting filaments.
MANDREL apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In printing, a
supporting steel bar on
which the engraved
copper cylinder runs.
In printing, a supporting
steel bar on which the
engraved copper cylinder
runs. Same as Mandril.
MANDRENAQUE fabrics A Philippine fabric
made with a cotton
warp and palm fibre
weft.
A Philippine fabric made
with a cotton warp and
palm fibre weft.
MANDRIL apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Same as Mandrel. Same as Mandrel.
MANGLE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
. A machine for
smoothening cloth by
roller pressure.
1. A machine consisting of
two or more squeeze rollers
(bowls) often heated and
used in combina-tion with
an open vat of water or
some other solution in
washing of fabrics,
starching, back-filling, etc.
2. A machine for
smoothening cloth by roller
pressure.
MANILA HEMP fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibres from Manila
hemp (musa textilis),
grown in the
Philippines.
Fibres from Manila hemp
(musa textilis), grown in
the Philippines. Used for
flexible, durable ropes and
cables. Some fibres are
used without spinning for
hats and shoes. Carpets
and tablemats also are
made from it. Also called
Abaca.
MANUFACTURE OF fibers, There are three basic There are three basic
516
Word Category Short description Description
MAN-MADE FIBRES filaments,
yarns
techniques by which a
man-made fibre can
be produced, but all
three are variations on
a single technique
using the spinneret
techniques by which a
man-made fibre can be
produced, but all three are
variations on a single
technique using the
spinneret. Polymer is the
base or substance from
which the spinning solution
is made. A polymer is the
union of simple molecules
which are processed into a
giant macro-molecule.
Solvent method: A polymer
solution in a solvent can be
forced through the tiny
holes of a spin-neret into
warm air. The solvent
evaporates in the warm air
and the liquid stream
solidifies into a continuous
filament.
Wet method: A polymer
solution can be forced
through the tiny holes of a
spinneret into another
solution where it is
coagulated into a
continuous filament.
Melt method: A solid
polymer can be melted and
forced through the tiny
holes of a spinneret into
cool air, which solidifies into
a continuous filament.
MANUFACTURED
FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Man-made fibre See Man-made fibre
MANUFACTURERS
TWIST
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A fibre, filament, yarn
or cord which has a
slack twist
A fibre, filament, yarn or
cord which has a slack
twist, imparted by the
manufacturer, i.e. two, four
or five turns per inch.
MAPLELEAF BRAID accessories A woven narrow fabric
similar to Oakleaf
braid, but with a maple
leaf pattern.
A woven narrow fabric
similar to Oakleaf braid, but
with a maple leaf pattern.
MARABOUT fabrics Delicate thin silk fabric
made from twisted raw
Delicate thin silk fabric
made from twisted raw silk.
517
Word Category Short description Description
silk Used for blouses, linings,
and lampshades.
MARBLE SILK fabrics Soft lightweight silk
fabric with a mottled or
marbled appearance
Soft lightweight silk fabric
with a mottled or marbled
appearance. This effect
may be achieved by the
use of multicolored yarns or
by warp printing. Used for
blouses, as a lining fabric,
and for lampshades.
MARCELINE fabrics Also known as
merceline.
Also known as merceline.
Light, thin silk fabric that is
almost transparent. Used
for lining hats and
lightweight clothes.
MARCELLA fabrics A fancy or figured
fabric of piqu
structure.
A fancy or figured fabric of
piqu structure. Also called
Waffle piqu.
MARENA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Collagen fibre. See Collagen fibre.
MARINE COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A cotton fabric made
in Syria.
A cotton fabric made in
Syria.
MARINE FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A weak, brittle fibre
obtained from
Poisdonia austrails,
marine plant found
Australia.
A weak, brittle fibre
obtained from Poisdonia
austrails, marine plant
found Australia.
MARINE STRIPES fabrics A calico shirting of
good quality, made
with blue and white
stripes of equal width.
A calico shirting of good
quality, made with blue and
white stripes of equal width.
Produced in England.
MARK OFF defects Fabric defect. 1. Fabric defect. An
undesirable transference of
colour caused by contact
between a dyed or printed
fabric and another fabric or
itself.
2. Defect on a finished
fabric, identified by a
decided change where the
fabric is rubbed or
scratched lightly with the
fingernail or other article
which does not transfer
colour to the fabric.
518
Word Category Short description Description
MARKER garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
In garment
manufacturing, the
representation or
drawing of the final
arrangement of the
patterns of the
component parts of a
garment or garments
in the form of a master
plan for cutting,
intended to make the
best use of the
material.
In garment manufacturing,
the representation or
drawing of the final
arrangement of the patterns
of the component parts of a
garment or garments in the
form of a master plan for
cutting, intended to make
the best use of the material.
The marker is placed on
the lay prior to cutting to
determine the location of
pieces of garment and to
guide the cutter. Also called
lay marker
MARKET BLEACH fabrics A trade term for
bleached, starched
and calendered cotton
fabrics, but not dyed or
printed.
A trade term for bleached,
starched and calendered
cotton fabrics, but not dyed
or printed.
MARKING COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A cotton embroidery
thread used for
outlining, generally
dyed blue or red.
A cotton embroidery thread
used for outlining, generally
dyed blue or red.
MARKING STITCH general Another name for
Cross-stitch.
Another name for Cross-
stitch.
MARKING THREAD fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A distinctively coloured
sewing thread, with a
high fastness to
washing, bleaching
and dry-cleaning
solvents
A distinctively coloured
sewing thread, with a high
fastness to washing,
bleaching and dry-cleaning
solvents, used specially by
commercial launderers for
stitching their identification
symbols on to textile items
being cleaned.
MARKING-IN processes,
operations
The process of
marking around the
component garment
patterns with chalk or
other means to
indicate where fabric is
to be cut.
The process of marking
around the component
garment patterns with chalk
or other means to indicate
where fabric is to be cut.
The term can also apply to
marking with pencil when
making paper markers.
MARL EFFECT YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Two single, continuous
filament yarns, of
different solid colours
or dyeing properties
(subsequently dyed)
Two single, continuous
filament yarns, of different
solid colours or dyeing
properties (subsequently
dyed) doubled together.
519
Word Category Short description Description
doubled together. See also Ingrain yarn.
MARLBOROUGH fabrics See Malborough. See Malborough.
MARLED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Mottled
yarn. A marled yarn is
produced by
combining two
slubbings or rovings of
different color or
luster.
Also called Mottled yarn. A
marled yarn is produced by
combining two slubbings or
rovings of different color or
luster. Two different colored
threads are woven
together, not necessarily in
equal quantities, to form a
marled yarn. See also
Colour terms, Worsted
MARMOT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Cheap fur from a small
rodent.
Cheap fur from a small
rodent. Is not used in its
original state, but dyed to
imitate more expensive
furs, such as mink.
MAROCAIN fabrics A crpe fabric with a
pronounced weftways
rib
A crpe fabric with a
pronounced weftways rib
formed by the use of a fine
close-sett warp and a
highly twisted weft, picked
two Z- and two S-twisted
yarns.
MARQUISE FINISH processes,
operations
A high lustre finish
given to fine cotton
satin fabrics.
A high lustre finish given to
fine cotton satin fabrics.
MARQUISETTE fabrics WOVEN. An open,
loose fabric woven in a
leno construction,
sometimes with spots
or other de-signs
included.
1. WOVEN. An open, loose
fabric woven in a leno
construction, sometimes
with spots or other de-signs
included. Can be made
from cotton, silk or wool,
but is now mainly glass-
fibre nylon or polyester and
made as a curtain fabric.
Prone to shrink.
2. WARP-KNITTED. A
square-hole net produced
from two or three guide
bars each using a full-set
threading, the front bar
making a chaining
movement and the second
and third bars laying-in so
that they connect the
chains or pillars (see Pillar
stitch) generally every third
520
Word Category Short description Description
course.
MARQUISETTE SEW-
IN
fabrics See under Sew-in
woven interfacing.
See under Sew-in woven
interfacing.
MARRIED FIBRE
CLUMP
accessories A defect consisting of
a group of unopened
coterminus crimped
fibres.
A defect consisting of a
group of unopened
coterminus crimped fibres.
This defect occurs in con-
verter top.
MARRIED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Spinners double. See Spinners double.
MARSEILLES fabrics A double-faced cotton
quilting made in plain
J acquard weave, with
a raised, woven
pattern; named after
the city in France.
A double-faced cotton
quilting made in plain
J acquard weave, with a
raised, woven pattern;
named after the city in
France. It is usually made
with two sets of weft, one
fine and one coarse, and
one fine warp. The plain
ground is composed of the
fine threads; the coarse ply
weft floats to form the
raised figures. It is
produced chiefly in two
styles; all white, and white
figures on a coloured
ground. Used for
bedspreads and vesting
MARSEILLES
WEAVE
fabrics The quilting design
used in vestings and
other small patterned
quilted fabrics.
The quilting design used in
vestings and other small
patterned quilted fabrics.
MARTINIQUE
ABUTILON
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A fine, lustrous,
creamy white fibre
yielded form Abutilon
auretum found chiefly
in Martinique.
A fine, lustrous, creamy
white fibre yielded form
Abutilon auretum found
chiefly in Martinique. It has
an average length of 5 to 6
feet.
MARVEL METER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
An electrical device
that counts the
courses in a knitted
fabric
An electrical device that
counts the courses in a
knitted fabric such as fine-
denier nylon hosiery and
full-fashioned fabrics for
outerwear.
MASI CLOTH fabrics I A fabric made from
the bark of the masi
A fabric made from the bark
of the masi tree in the Fiji
521
Word Category Short description Description
tree in the Fiji islands
and used locally.
islands and used locally.
MASS general Quantity of matter in
body.
Quantity of matter in body.
See also Weight.
MASS
COLOURATION
processes,
operations
Also called Dope
dyeing, Solution
dyeing and Spun
dyeing.
Also called Dope dyeing,
Solution dyeing and Spun
dyeing. Process of dyeing
of manufactured fibres in
the spinning stage itself.
Significant quantities of
filament are coloured by
mass pig-mentation
methods in which heat-
stable pigment particles are
dispersed in the molten
polymer prior to extrusion
into filaments. This is a
particularly suitable method
for olefin fibres that are too
hydrophobic to be coloured
from an aqueous dyebath,
but it may also be used for
polyester, nylon and
viscose fibres. Other
colourants are dissolved in
the fibre-forming polymer
and remain in situ after
conversion of the polymer
to filament.
A further variation used for
acrylic fibres is to bring the
freshly extruded filament
into contact with a solution
of basic dye before the
filament is allowed to dry
out. This process is
referred to as Pro-ducer
dyeing.
MASS
PIGMENTATION
processes,
operations
A form of mass
colouration in which a
pigment is used.
A form of mass colouration
in which a pigment is used.
MAT fabrics,
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See Rug. 1. See Rug.
2.See Hopsack.
MATCHING processes,
operations
A comparison of dyed
samples of textiles of
nominally the same
1. A process in which the
amount of each colouring
matter presents in a
522
Word Category Short description Description
colour. material is adjusted so that
the final colour resembles
that of a given sample as
closely as possible.
2. A comparison of dyed
samples of textiles of
nominally the same colour.
Both the above can be
done by eye or by using
instruments that measure
chromatically coordi-nates.
MATCHINGS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Wool that has been
sorted.
Wool that has been sorted.
MATELASS fabrics The word means
quilted in French. A
pouching or quilted
effect fabric, it is a
double or compound
cloth, with a raised or
puckered design effect
on the face caused by
the reaction of
different shrinkages of
face and back fabrics
during finishing.
The word means quilted in
French. A pouching or
quilted effect fabric, it is a
double or compound cloth,
with a raised or puckered
design effect on the face
caused by the reaction of
different shrinkages of face
and back fabrics during
finishing. The original type
of this was quite heavy and
used for coatings but lighter
types are now made which
are perhaps more like
blister fabrics than the true
matelasse and the raised
effect is obtained by the
use of synthetic fibre yarns
which have not been heat
stabilized and which
contract in finishing. This
enables a strong back
shrinkage effect to be
obtained without the use of
heavy compound or double
structure.
In one type, the cloth
consists of warp and weft
with an extra weft, used as
padding and held in place
by an extra stitching warp.
The raised effect is
achieved by the weaves.
The back of the cloth is a
fine, loosely woven web of
523
Word Category Short description Description
warp and weft interfacing.
The fabric is often made on
a dobby or J acquard loom.
The fibres used may be
silk, viscose, acetate,
nylon, polyester or
combinations. The fabric
may also contain metallic
threads. Others may be
made from cotton yarn and
used for curtains and
bedspreads.
In Dress fabrics, the
designs are usually
elaborate and the fabric
may be fairly stiff.
Furnishing Fabric, usually
is heavy.
MATERIAL general Substance, units, parts
of which an item is
made.
Substance, units, parts of
which an item is made.
Synonyms are fibres,
fabric, cloth, goods.
MATKA fabrics An Indian fabric made
of spun silk.
An Indian fabric made of
spun silk.
MATRIX apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The form or mould on
which something is
shaped.
The form or mould on
which something is shaped.
In textile printing, it is a
solid steel cylinder, or one
of inflatable rubber, on
which rotary screens are
formed.
MATRIX-FIBRIL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A man-made fibre
composed of two or
more chemically
distinct components
A man-made fibre
composed of two or more
chemically distinct
components.
A matrix-fibril fibre is
composed of fine, short
filaments (fibrils) that are
embedded in the matrix
(the rest of the fibre). See
also Bicomponent fibres
MATT fabrics,
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Textile where the
normal lustre has been
reduced.
1. Textile where the normal
lustre has been reduced.
2. See Hopsack.
3. See under Delustred.
MATT J ERSEY fabrics A jersey fabric of
almost any weight with
a dull surface
A jersey fabric of almost
any weight with a dull
surface due to the fact that
524
Word Category Short description Description
it is knitted from crpe
yarns.
MATT WEAVE fabrics See Basket weave See Basket weave
MATTING garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A great variety of
plaited or woven mats
and similar articles
made of coir fibre, jute,
straw.
A great variety of plaited or
woven mats and similar
articles made of coir fibre,
jute, straw. Used floor or
wall covering table mats,
etc.
MATURE FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Cotton
maturity.
See under Cotton maturity.
MATURITY INDEX fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A relative indication of
cotton fibre maturity.
A relative indication of
cotton fibre maturity.
MATURITY RATIO fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A method of
expressing,
numerically, the
maturity of a sample of
cotton fibres.
A method of expressing,
numerically, the maturity of
a sample of cotton fibres. It
is the ratio of the actual
degree of the wall
thickening to a standard
degree of thickening equal
to 0.577. See also
Percentage maturity.
MATURITY, COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Cotton maturiy See Cotton maturiy
MAUD garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Term has now fallen
into disuse
Term has now fallen into
disuse, but it used to
describe checked woollen
traveling rugs woven in
different shades of gray.
MAURITIUS FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Mauritius
hemp.
Also called Mauritius hemp.
A fibre from the leaf of the
plant Furcraea fifante.
MAYO TWILL fabrics See Campbell twill See Campbell twill
MAYPOLE PROCESS processes,
operations
A process of braiding A process of braiding, using
a machine which is
provided with three or more
carriers which are driven by
means of horn gears along
tracks which cross at
intervals enabling the yarn
drawn from the carriers to
interlace to form a braid.
MEALY fabrics Descriptive of the
appearance of a print
Descriptive of the
appearance of a print or
525
Word Category Short description Description
or dyeing which shows
small irregularities,
rather like oatmea
dyeing which shows small
irregularities, rather like
oatmeal, caused, e.g. by
too much printing paste on
the fabric from too deep an
engraving, unsatisfactory
fabric preparation, etc.
MEAN DEVIATION
UNEVENNESS, U%
general See also Unevenness
and Coefficient of
variation unevenness.
In textiles, the average of
the absolute values of the
linear densities of the
integrated lengths between
which unevenness is
measured and expressed
as a percentage of the
average linear density for
the total length within which
unevenness is measured.
See also Unevenness and
Coefficient of variation
unevenness.
MEASURE CUTTLE processes,
operations
The cutting of a
garment to individual
measurements.
The cutting of a garment to
individual measurements.
MEASURES AND
WEIGHTS
general Measures and weights
usually used in textile
industry.
Measures and weights
usually used in textile
industry.
MEASURING DEVICE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A machine used to
measure lengths of
yarn or cloth as it
passes through the
device.
A machine used to
measure lengths of yarn or
cloth as it passes through
the device.
MEATY COTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A clean cotton with
good spinning quality.
A clean cotton with good
spinning quality. There is
little loss or waste because
of sand, leaf or short fibres
MECHANICAL
FABRICS
fabrics See Industrial fabrics. See Industrial fabrics.
MECHANICAL
FINISHING
processes,
operations
The process of
applying mechanical
energy to textiles to
impart functional
and/or aesthetic
characteristics, e.g.
shearing, calendering.
The process of applying
mechanical energy to
textiles to impart functional
and/or aesthetic
characteristics, e.g.
shearing, calendering.
MECHANICAL
STRETCH
processes,
operations
See Slack
mercerization.
See Slack mercerization.
MECHLIN LACE fabrics Soft, filmy lace in Soft, filmy lace in which
526
Word Category Short description Description
which even the denser
decoration is filmy.
even the denser decoration
is filmy. Often used for
bridal veils.
MECHLIN MACHINE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See under Lace
machines
See under Lace machines
MED FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A modulated animal
fibre
A modulated animal fibre in
which the diameter of the
medulla is less than 60% of
the diameter of the fibre
MEDALLION accessories A single detached
motif design.
A single detached motif
design. It may be appliqud
to a lace ground or
foundation fabric.
MEDALLION LACE fabrics Motifs are made or cut
from a piece of heavy
lace and inserted into
cloth. Used in lingerie,
table linen.
Motifs are made or cut from
a piece of heavy lace and
inserted into cloth. Used in
lingerie, table linen.
MEDIUM STAPLE
COTTON
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibres 1 to 1 inches
long.
Fibres 1 to 1 inches long.
MEDIUM WOOLS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Those wools which
average in length
between long and
short wools.
1. Those wools which
average in length between
long and short wools. Short
wool ranges from 1 to 6
inches; and long wool is
from 6 to 12 or more inches
in staple length.
2. Sometimes refers to the
general quality of wool and
includes wool that is high
1/4 blood, 3/8 blood, and
low 1/2 blood wool.
MEDULLA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The central portion of
some animal fibres
consisting of a series
of cavities formed by
the medullary cells
which collapse during
the growth process.
The central portion of some
animal fibres consisting of a
series of cavities formed by
the medullary cells which
collapse during the growth
process. In some fibres,
e.g. wool and kemp, the
medulla forms the greatest
portion of the fibre and is
surrounded by a
comparatively thin layer of
cortex.
MEDULLATED FIBRE fibers, An animal fibre that in An animal fibre that in its
527
Word Category Short description Description
filaments,
yarns
its original state
includes a medulla
original state includes a
medulla
MEISEN fabrics Plain-weave
lightweight J apanese
silk fabric
Plain-weave lightweight
J apanese silk fabric, with a
blurred pattern achieved by
coloring the yarns before
weaving them. Used for
blouses, dresses.
MLANGE PRINTING processes,
operations
A printing process in
which bands of
thickened dyepaste,
with intervening blank
areas, are applied
across slubbings of
wool or other fibres
A printing process in which
bands of thickened
dyepaste, with intervening
blank areas, are applied
across slubbings of wool or
other fibres. The slubbing is
subsequently steamed,
washed, and then combed
to produce a very even
mixture of dyed and undyed
lengths of fibre. Also called
Vig-oureux printing.
MLANGE YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn produced by
mlange printing of
tops or slivers.
A yarn produced by
mlange printing of tops or
slivers. It is distinguishable
from a mixture yarn in that
individual fibres carry more
than one colour. See also
Colour terms, Worsted.
MELDABLE FIBRES fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Hetrofil fibres See Hetrofil fibres
MELDED FABRIC fabrics A fabric consisting
wholly or in part of
bicomponent fibres
A fabric consisting wholly or
in part of bicomponent
fibres, in which cohesion
has been achieved through
the selective melting of one
component of the of the
bicomponent fibres.
MELROSE fabrics A double twill fabric
with a silk warp and a
wool warp.
A double twill fabric with a
silk warp and a wool warp.
MELT BLLOWING processes,
operations
A process in which a
polymer is melt-
extruded through a die
into a high velocity
stream of hot air which
converts it into fine
and relatively short
A process in which a
polymer is melt-extruded
through a die into a high
velocity stream of hot air
which converts it into fine
and relatively short fibres.
After quenching by a cold
528
Word Category Short description Description
fibres. air stream the fibres are
collected as a sheet on a
moving screen.
MELT DYEING processes,
operations
Colouring of man-
made fibres (yarn, tow,
staple) by the use of
pigments or insoluble
dyes into the polymer-
melt or spinning
solution before
extrusion.
Colouring of man-made
fibres (yarn, tow, staple) by
the use of pigments or
insoluble dyes into the
polymer-melt or spinning
solution before extrusion.
Usually colours are fast to
most destructive elements
MELT FRACTURE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
An unstable melt-
spinning condition
An unstable melt-spinning
condition in which the
surface of the extrudate
becomes rough and
irregular.
MELT METHOD fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under
Manufacture of man-
made fibres.
See under Manufacture of
man-made fibres.
MELT SPINNING processes,
operations
The fibre-forming
material may be
rendered liquid by
heating it until it melts.
The fibre-forming material
may be rendered liquid by
heating it until it melts. The
molten material is extruded
through a spinneret and the
jets are hardened as they
cool on emerging from the
spinneret. See also Dry
spinning and Wet spinning.
MELTON fabrics Firm medium weight
wool fabric in a close
plain weave, with a
short dense non-
directional nap.
Firm medium weight wool
fabric in a close plain
weave, with a short dense
non-directional nap. Is dull
in appearance and comes
in white and all mens
suiting colours. It used to
be a coating fabric, but it is
now mainly used as an aid
to tailoring, because it does
not fray.
These fabrics are made
from all wool, or from cotton
warp and woolen weft and
the weave - usu-ally a
simple twill - is completely
hidden by the surface fibre
which developed in
finishing by mill-ing the
fabric to make it compact
529
Word Category Short description Description
and then raising and
cropping the surface nap.
Very heavy types are made
for overcoatings but lighter
and cheaper types are
used by tailors for lining the
underside of collars.
MELTONNETTE fabrics A lightweight fabric
which resembles
melton cloth, and is
used for womens
wear.
A lightweight fabric which
resembles melton cloth,
and is used for womens
wear.
MEMORY fabrics A cured fabrics ability
to retain, or return to,
the shape or condition
it was in at the time of
curing.
A cured fabrics ability to
retain, or return to, the
shape or condition it was in
at the time of curing. If the
sensitizing chemical is set
in the fabric when it is flat,
the fabric will remember its
flatness and will resist
creases, pleats, puckering
and other bending
influences. If the sensitizing
chemical set after the fabric
has been made into a
garment, the fabric will
remember to return to its
shape as a finished
garment.
MENDING processes,
operations
Also called Darning. Also called Darning. The
insertion of yarn into a
woven fabric where the
warp or weft is missing and
also the correction of other
faults by means of
needlework e.g. stitching.
This is a skilled manual
needlework operation.
MERCELINE fabrics Same as Marceline. Same as Marceline.
MERCERISED
FINISH
processes,
operations
See Mercerization. See Mercerization.
MERCERISED
STRIPE
fabrics A fabric, generally a
cotton shirting or dress
fabric, which contains,
stripes of mercerized
yarn against a
background of
ordinary cotton.
A fabric, generally a cotton
shirting or dress fabric,
which contains, stripes of
mercerized yarn against a
background of ordinary
cotton.
530
Word Category Short description Description
MERCERISED WOOL fabrics A wool treated with a
solution of caustic
soda to destroy the
felting property.
A wool treated with a
solution of caustic soda to
destroy the felting property.
Because the wool scales
are destroyed, the fibre
sometimes is more
lustrous.
MERCERIZATION processes,
operations
A treatment for
irreversibly and
remarkably altering the
physical
characteristics and
appearance of
cellulosic textiles in
yarn or fabric form.
A treatment for irreversibly
and remarkably altering the
physical characteristics and
appearance of cellulosic
textiles in yarn or fabric
form. The process involves
both swelling in a
concentrated solution of
caustic alkalis, under
conditions of concentration
and temperature, and
stretching to enhance
lustre, to increase dye
affinity, and to improve the
strength of the cotton.
Mercerised yarns are used
for many cotton fabrics and
sewing threads. In chain
mercerizing, shrinkage in
fabric width is allowed,
followed by restretching
and washing on a clip-
stenter. In chainless
mercerzing, the fabric is
effectively prevented from
shrinking by transporting
over rotating drums. See
Hot mercerization, Slack
mercerization, Post
mercerization and Liquid
ammonia treatment.
MERCHANDISE general In textile, any finished
soft goods ready for
consumer purchase.
In textile, any finished soft
goods ready for consumer
purchase.
MERINO fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Wool from purebred
merino sheep; the
most important wool
producing type of
sheep, mostly from
Australia and South
Africa.
Wool from purebred merino
sheep; the most important
wool producing type of
sheep, mostly from
Australia and South Africa.
The finest grade, soft,
expensive wool fleece.
531
Word Category Short description Description
Used in high quality cloth,
blankets, etc., often in small
quantities with other wool to
reduce the price. The word
Merino is now also used for
a high quality woollen cloth.
MERINO EXTRAFINE
WOOL
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A highly refined and
superbly soft yarn.
A highly refined and
superbly soft yarn. Used
alone or mixed with other
luxurious yarns such as
silk, alpaca, cashmere.
MESH fabrics,
processes,
operations
Netting fabrics, plain
and printed, with holes
from 3 mm to 1 cm.
Some are made from
cotton, others from
polyester. Used for
tops and vests
1. Netting fabrics, plain and
printed, with holes from 3
mm to 1 cm. Some are
made from cotton, others
from polyester. Used for
tops and vests
2. In coated glass yarn
fabrics, the number
(counted units) of warp
yarns (ends) and weft yarns
(picks) per linear inch (25.4
mm).
3. In knitting. See Knotted
stitch and Spread loop.
MESSALINE fabrics Named after Empress
Messalina, a
connoisseur of this
type silk. It is a
lustrous, soft, silky
fabric in a satin weave,
usually in plain
colours.
Named after Empress
Messalina, a connoisseur
of this type silk. It is a
lustrous, soft, silky fabric in
a satin weave, usually in
plain colours. It may now
be polyester, acetate,
triacetate as well as silk
fibre. This is an expensive
silk, which drapes well, and
is perfect in black for
special occasion dresses
MESTA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Kenaf. See Kenaf.
META-CHROME
DYEING
processes,
operations
A single-bath method
of dyeing in which the
fibre is treated in a
dyebath containing a
suitable chrome dye
together with a
chromate
A single-bath method of
dyeing in which the fibre is
treated in a dyebath
containing a suitable
chrome dye together with a
chromate, whereby a dye-
chromium complex is
formed within the fibre.
532
Word Category Short description Description
METAL CLOTH fabrics A decorative fabric
with a silk or cotton
warp and gold, silver,
aluminium or copper
filing yarns.
A decorative fabric with a
silk or cotton warp and
gold, silver, aluminium or
copper filing yarns. Used
for trimmings and millinery
METAL
EMBROIDERED
LACE
fabrics A lace fabric as base,
usually of viscose, with
embroidery worked in
nylon and metal yarns.
A lace fabric as base,
usually of viscose, with
embroidery worked in nylon
and metal yarns.
METAL FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured fibre
made from any metal.
A manufactured fibre made
from any metal.
METAL SENSITIVITY apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The propensity of a
dye to produce an
abnormal color on a
textile material
The propensity of a dye to
produce an abnormal color
on a textile material when
in the presence of certain
metal ions.
METAL THREAD
FABRICS
fabrics There are a few
fabrics, for example
silk from the East,
which have real silver
or gold threads woven
into them.
There are a few fabrics, for
example silk from the East,
which have real silver or
gold threads woven into
them. The problem with
these is that the thread
tarnishes, so the fabric or
garment is usually kept in
tissue paper to slow this
process down. See also
Lam jersey.
METALIZING processes,
operations
The method of
laminating an
aluminium foil or
metallic film
The method of laminating
an aluminium foil or metallic
film between two layers or
plies of polyester film,
acetate butyrate, acetate or
cellophane, or applying a
metal film on one surface of
a fabric.
METALLIC FABRIC fabrics Any fabric which
contains metallic yarn.
Any fabric which contains
metallic yarn.
METALLIC FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured fibre A manufactured fibre
composed of metal, plastic-
coated metal, metal-coated
plastic or a core completely
covered by metal.
METALLIC
FILAMENTS
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Continuous flat mono-
filament produced by a
combination of plastic
film and metallic
Continuous flat mono-
filament produced by a
combination of plastic film
and metallic component so
533
Word Category Short description Description
component so that the
metallic component is
protected.
that the metallic component
is protected.
Metallic filaments are
available in a wide range of
tarnish-free glittering
colours. Aluminium foil is
the metal used and the
filaments are composed of
a thin strip of foil coated
each side with clear plastic
film which protects the
aluminium from tarnish.
The laminated construction
gives flexibil-ity. Special
types of polyester film with
reasonably high strength
are produced, although the
strength of normal type
metallic filaments is fairly
low.
Used for their decorative
effect in many types of
clothing fabrics, woven,
knitted and lace. They
usually give a glitter effect
but a more subtle effect can
be obtained by use of
opaque colours which
reduce the brightness of
the aluminium foil. Their
hardness can cause some
discomfort in wear unless
lined, and care is taken in
dry cleaning to prevent de-
lamination by unsuitable
sol-vents.
Metallic yarns are
designated by a group of
three symbols, each
separated by a hyphen,
setting forth the two
dimensions of width, and
gauge or thickness, and
generic type.
Width: The width of the
yarn is expressed as the
fraction of an inch to which
the yarn has been cut, viz.,
1/32, 1/64, etc.
534
Word Category Short description Description
Gauge (or thickness): The
thickness or gauge of the
yarn is expressed as the
sum of the thickness of the
plastic film and metallic
component in hundred-
thousands of an inch, as a
whole number, viz.,
35,50,150,200, etc.
Generic type: The type of
the yarn is expressed on
the basis of two
components of the laminate
- the generic name of the
plastic film and the metal.
METALLIC PRINTING processes,
operations
A method of printing
which uses a finely
ground bronze or
aluminium powder.
A method of printing which
uses a finely ground bronze
or aluminium powder.
Method of production is
similar to pigments using
suitable binders.
METALLIC STAPLE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Materials similar to the
various types of
metallic yarn which
has been cut to staple
length for blending
with other fibres in the
manufacture of spun
yarns.
Materials similar to the
various types of metallic
yarn which has been cut to
staple length for blending
with other fibres in the
manufacture of spun yarns.
The use of metallic staple
gives glittering highlights to
the fabrics in which it is
employed.
METALLIC YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Metallized yarn. See Metallized yarn.
METALLINE fabrics A highly lustrous fabric
in metallic colours.
A highly lustrous fabric in
metallic colours. Woven
with silk or cotton warp with
the brilliant metallic colour
in the rayon filling. Made in
imitation of metallic fabric.
METALLIZABLE DYE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A dye capable of
forming a dye-metal
complex
A dye capable of forming a
dye-metal complex either in
substance (See Metal-
complex dyes) or on
substrate.
METALLIZED FABRIC fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A textile fabric on
which metal has been
deposited,
A textile fabric on which
metal has been deposited,
e.g. chemically, or by
535
Word Category Short description Description
electric arc or by lamina-
tion using adhesive
METALLIZED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn, which has free
metal as a component
A yarn, which has free
metal as a component.
There are several types,
the best known of which
are:
1. Yarns in which separate
metal fibres or filaments are
included.
2. Metal of narrow strip
section, usually lustrous
See Flat metal yarn.
3. Metal of narrow strip
section, coated or
laminated with film such as
viscose, cellulose acetate,
butyrate, or polyester. The
film may be coloured.
4. Yarns on which metal is
attached to or deposited on
the fibres, e.g. chemically,
by electric arc, or by
adhesive. See also Tinsel
yarn.
5. Multi-end yarns in which
at least one single yarn is
metallic. See also Tinsel
yarn.
6. A gimp in which the
helical covering consists of
a strip of (2) above.
METAMERIC general Descriptive of objects
that exhibit
metamerism
Descriptive of objects that
exhibit metamerism
METAMERIC MATCH general A match that is judged
to be satisfactory
under a particular
illuminant but not
under illuminant of
different spectral
composition.
A match that is judged to
be satisfactory under a
particular illuminant but not
under illuminant of different
spectral composition.
METAMERISM general A phenomenon
whereby the nature of
the colour difference
between two similarly
coloured objects
changes with change
A phenomenon whereby
the nature of the colour
difference between two
similarly coloured objects
changes with change in the
spectral distribution
536
Word Category Short description Description
in the spectral
distribution
characteristics of the
illuminant.
characteristics of the
illuminant.
METIER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A spinning device
used in producing
man-made fibres.
A spinning device used in
producing man-made
fibres. The bank of cells or
compartments and
associated equipment used
in the dry spinning of fibres,
i.e. cellulose acetate and
cellulose triacetate.
METRIC COUNT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The number of metres
of yarn per gram
The number of metres of
yarn per gram; an indirect
yarn numbering system.
MI-CUIT SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A silk which has been
partially degummed to
a degree about
halfway between
complete, bright, and
souple, or part, boiling-
off.
A silk which has been
partially degummed to a
degree about halfway
between complete, bright,
and souple, or part, boiling-
off. It is not a fixed degree,
and varies in proportion to
the lustre de-sired. Derived
from the French means
half baked.
MICROFIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A fibre or filament of
linear density
approximately 1.0 dtex
or less.
A fibre or filament of linear
density approximately 1.0
dtex or less.
MICROFIBRE
BATTING
accessories A textile filling material
containing fibres, such
as polyester or olefin
A textile filling material
containing fibres, such as
polyester or olefin, which
have a diameter of less
than 10 m.
MICROGRAPH apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A photograph of an
enlarged microscopic
image.
A photograph of an
enlarged microscopic
image. Also called
photomicrograph.
MICRON general A unit of measurement
equal to 1000th part of
a millimetre
A unit of measurement
equal to 1000th part of a
millimetre; it is abbreviation
for mocrometre.
MICRONAIRE
METHOD
processes,
operations
A means of measuring
the fineness of a fibre.
A means of measuring the
fineness of a fibre. This is
done by finding the
resistance of a staple to a
flow of air forced through it.
537
Word Category Short description Description
MICRONAIRE
READING
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A relative
measurement of fibre
fineness derived from
the porous plug airflow
method.
A relative measurement of
fibre fineness derived from
the porous plug airflow
method.
MICROSTRETCHING processes,
operations
The use of inter-
meshing, driven,
corrugated rollers for
the incremental
extension of the weft
yarns of woven
fabrics.
The use of inter-meshing,
driven, corrugated rollers
for the incremental
extension of the weft yarns
of woven fabrics. When
applied immediately before
the cross-linking of
lightweight cotton fabrics,
weft tensile strength loss is
minimized.
MICROWAVE
HEATING
processes,
operations
The use of high
frequency dielectric
energy, of 300 Mhz-
350 Mhz to raise the
temperature of polar
materials, e.g. water.
The use of high frequency
dielectric energy, of 300
Mhz-350 Mhz to raise the
temperature of polar
materials, e.g. water. A
microwave oven provides a
method of heating textiles
rapidly and uniformly
without overheating surface
fibres. On the industrial
scale RF heating is used
more widely.
MID-NECK GIRTH garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See
under Garment sizing
system.
MID-THIGH GIRTH garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See
under Garment sizing
system
MIDDY TWILL fabrics A durable right-hand
or left-hand twill cotton
fabric, either
mercerized or plain.
A durable right-hand or left-
hand twill cotton fabric,
either mercerized or plain.
Used for middy blouses,
uniforms, childrens wear.
Sometimes applied to
lightweight drill or jean.
MIGNONETTE fabrics A knitted silk or
viscose fabric used for
underwear.
A knitted silk or viscose
fabric used for underwear.
Finer than Tricot.
MIGRATION apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The nonuniform
movement and
distribution of dyes,
pigments, finishes or
The nonuniform movement
and distribution of dyes,
pigments, finishes or other
materials from one part of a
538
Word Category Short description Description
other materials from
one part of a material
to another
material to another;
movement between fibres
within a substrate or
between substrates due to
capillary forces. See also
Transfer.
MILAN fabrics A fine, closely woven
straw used for fine
qualities of millinery
made in Milan, Italy.
A fine, closely woven straw
used for fine qualities of
millinery made in Milan,
Italy.
MILAN POINT fabrics A needle-point tape
lace with a picot edge.
A needle-point tape lace
with a picot edge. Once
hand-made, but the
simplicity of the design is
easy to imitate by machine.
MILANAISE fabrics Narrow braid or
corded fabric in which
the cord effect is
produced by leno
weaving.
Narrow braid or corded
fabric in which the cord
effect is produced by leno
weaving. One end is made
to cross another coarse
end in an alternate crossed
and open shed sequence.
MILANESE fabrics KNITTED. A warp
knitted fabric usually
made with a full set of
warp threads (i.e.
containing twice as
many threads as there
are wales in the fabric.
1. KNITTED. A warp knitted
fabric usually made with a
full set of warp threads (i.e.
containing twice as many
threads as there are wales
in the fabric. It is a highly
run-resistant fabric. The
threads are continuously
divided into two equal warp
sheets, one set of which
traverses to the right
continuously and the other
set to the left, so that any
particular thread traverses
the full width of the fabric
and, on reaching the
selvedge, is transferred to
the other set. The manner
of traversing the threads
may be either silk lap or
cotton lap.
2. WOVEN. A low quality
cotton fabric of about 17x14
tex with approximately 30
ends x 38 picks per cm.
MILANESE WARP- apparatus, A warp-knitting A warp-knitting machine
539
Word Category Short description Description
KNITTING MACHINE equipage,
tools
machine using either
bearded or latch
needles arranged in
either a straight-bar or
circular formation.
using either bearded or
latch needles arranged in
either a straight-bar or
circular formation. The
special loop-forming
process results in a two-bar
fabric constructed from two
non-returning atlas lapping
motions working in
opposition.
MILANO RIB fabrics A weft-knitted rib-
based fabric.
A weft-knitted rib-based
fabric. Each complete
repeat of the structure
consist of three
components knitted in
sequence to give one row
of 1x1 rib (i) and one row of
plain tubular knitting (ii) in
which, the two component
parts usually being similar.
The appearance and
characteristics of the
fabrics are related to the
ratio the course lengths of
(i) and (ii). See also Half-
milano rib.
MILDEW general In textile materials the
development of
unsightly growths of
certain species of
fungi
In textile materials the
development of unsightly
growths of certain species
of fungi and accompanying
unpleasant, musty odors on
it when it is exposed to
conditions favoring such
growths. This may lead to
discoloration, tendering,
and variations in dyeing
properties
MILDEW-RESISTANT fabrics A fabric treated with
chemicals
A fabric treated with
chemicals, to impart
resistance to the
development mildew in it.
See Mildew.
MILITARY BRAID garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A plain, flat braid
usually made from
continuous filament
yarn.
A plain, flat braid usually
made from continuous
filament yarn.
MILIUM fabrics Trade name for a
fabric which is
Trade name for a fabric
which is insulated by
540
Word Category Short description Description
insulated by applying
aluminum flakes to its
back.
applying aluminum flakes to
its back. The fibre of the
fabric may be cotton,
acetate, viscose, nylon,
polyester. The insulation
keeps out cold in winter
and heat in summer. It was
once a common coat lining,
but, possibly because the
seams pull and split easily
under pressure, it is now
mainly confined to curtain
lining.
MILL fabrics,
apparatus,
equipage,
tools,
general
Fabric whose surface
has been abraded to
give it a special
appearance and hand.
1. Fabric whose surface
has been abraded to give it
a special appearance and
hand.
3. In printing, a small
cylinder of softened steel
on which the pattern is
raised in relief (by pressure
and acid) from contact with
a previously engraved die.
3. A factory unit in which
textile yarns are spun,
woven or knit.
4. A business concern
engaged in the
manufacture of textiles.
MILL ENDS fabrics Short lengths of fabric
or mill remnants.
Short lengths of fabric or
mill remnants.
MILL ENGRAVING processes,
operations
The mechanical
method of engraving
a print cylinder;
The mechanical method of
engraving a print cylinder;
the design is pressed out
by means of a mill. Also
called Machine engraving.
MILL RUN general A yarn or fabric that
has not been graded.
1. A yarn or fabric that has
not been graded.
2. A yarn or fabric from
which inferior product bas
not been removed,
consequently, goods are
not up to a standard quality.
They are generally seconds
MILL WASTE general Waste from various
machines that card,
spin, and weave textile
fabrics
Waste from various
machines that card, spin,
and weave textile fabrics
541
Word Category Short description Description
MILL WRINKLE defects See Crease. See Crease.
MILL-FINISHED
FABRICS
fabrics Yarn dyed, cotton
fabrics requiring no
wet finishing after
weaving.
Yarn dyed, cotton fabrics
requiring no wet finishing
after weaving.
MILLBOARD accessories A thick piece of
cardboard placed
between the folds of
fabric during pressing.
A thick piece of cardboard
placed between the folds of
fabric during pressing.
MILLED fabrics A woven fabric that
has been fulled or
felted.
A woven fabric that has
been fulled or felted.
MILLINERY FELT fabrics A cloth made by
interlocking of fibres
A cloth made by
interlocking of fibres. The
fibre stock is submitted to
heat, moisture, water and
pressure. Fibres used are
fur, wool and cotton blends.
MILLINERY HAIR accessories A very sheer braid
used for transparent
hats.
A very sheer braid used for
transparent hats. Best
grades are lustrous and
have good body.
MILLING processes,
operations
Consolidation or
compacting fabrics,
that usually contain
wool or other animal
fibres.
Consolidation or
compacting fabrics, that
usually contain wool or
other animal fibres.
Depending on the type of
fibre, the structure of the
fabric and on variations in
the conditions of milling, a
wide range of effects can
be obtained varying from a
slight alteration in handle to
a dense matting with
considerable reduction in
area.
MILLING ACID DYE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
An acid dye of good
fastness to acid or
alkaline milling.
An acid dye of good
fastness to acid or alkaline
milling.
MINERAL DYES apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Colours produced on
cotton by the
precipitation of
coloured mineral
compounds on the
fibre.
Colours produced on cotton
by the precipitation of
coloured mineral
compounds on the fibre.
Most have excellent
fastness properties but with
very limited shade range.
MINERAL FIBRE fibers, A group of fibres A group of fibres obtained
542
Word Category Short description Description
filaments,
yarns
obtained from
minerals, e.g.
asbestos, glass,
metals
from minerals, e.g.
asbestos, glass, metals
MINERAL SILICATE
FIBRES
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
These are included in
various commonly
used fibre groupings.
These are included in
various commonly used
fibre groupings. They are
inorganic fibres and
mineral fibres. Their
resistance to high
temperature puts put them
into high-temperature fibre
classification. A term which
indicates that they are
silicates of natural origin, as
distinct from silicates which
are made synthetically, e.g.
Glass.
MINERAL WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A web or batt of
manufactured,
inorganic fibres used
for thermal or acoustic
insulation.
A web or batt of
manufactured, inorganic
fibres used for thermal or
acoustic insulation.
MINI-GRAIN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A two coloured ingrain
filament yarn in which
one colour
predominates
A two coloured ingrain
filament yarn in which one
colour predominates
MINIMUM-CARE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See Easy-care. See Easy-care.
MINK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A very distinctive long
pale brown fur from an
animal which can be
ranch bred or wild.
A very distinctive long pale
brown fur from an animal
which can be ranch bred or
wild. There are also
Chinese mink or Kolinsky
mink, a creamy beige fur
which is often dyed; J ap
mink, which is yellow; and
Mutation mink, which is of
unusual colorings, e.g.
silvery blue and black. Mink
is luxurious and
hardwearing. It is often
used for hats and to a
lesser extent for coats.
Prohibitively expensive.
MINOR DEFECT defects See under Defect See under Defect
543
Word Category Short description Description
MINOR DEFECTS IN
GARMENT
defects See under Garment
defects.
See under Garment
defects.
MIRALENE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Polyester fibre, crinkle
or boucl type yarn
based on terylene.
Polyester fibre, crinkle or
boucl type yarn based on
terylene.
MIRALON processes,
operations,
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A bulking process
which can be applied
to nylon yarn.
A bulking process which
can be applied to nylon
yarn. The bulking makes
the fibre warmer, as air is
introduced, and also softer
to the feel.
MIRROR VELVET fabrics Velvet produced in the
normal way, but with a
pattern
Velvet produced in the
normal way, but with a
pattern made by pressing
the pile flat in different
directions and giving a
shimmery or mirror effect.
MIRROR-EFFECT
YARNS
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A type of filament yarn
in which a heavy white
yarn serves as a core
A type of filament yarn in
which a heavy white yarn
serves as a core, wrapped
with fine dyed sin-gles.
Colour is diffused through
the yarn.
MIS-STITCH general A knitted stitch done
purposely for a desired
effect.
A knitted stitch done
purposely for a desired
effect. Formed when the
needle holds the old loop
and does not receive new
yarn. It connects two loops
of the same course that are
not in adjacent wales. Also
called float stitch, welt
stitch.
MISCLIP defects See Scalloped
selvedge.
See Scalloped selvedge.
MISDRAW defects See Wrong draw. See Wrong draw.
MISPICK defects Also called Wrong
pick. Fabric defect in
woven fabrics
Also called Wrong pick.
Fabric defect in woven
fabrics. A pick not properly
interlaced, which causes a
break in the weave pattern.
Weft yarn picks which have
not gone all the way
through the shed of the
loom when weaving. The
pick may have been left out
altogether, or a short or
544
Word Category Short description Description
long portion of the pick may
have been deposited in the
shed. Caused chiefly by
mechanical defects such as
weft yarn running out of the
bobbin, breakage of the
yarn, not interlacing with
the warp yarn, poor action
by the picker stick, etc. See
also Double pick.
MISPRINT defects Fabric defect, in
printed fabric.
Fabric defect, in printed
fabric. Colors or patterns,
or both, either missed, or
partially missed, or
incorrectly positioned
relative to each other.
MISREGISTER defects Fabric defect, in
printing
Fabric defect, in printing.
Colors or patterns not
correctly positioned.
(Compare Misprint.)
MISS-KNIT defects Fabric defect, in
knitted fabrics.
Fabric defect, in knitted
fabrics. A deviation from
the designated knitting
pattern.
MISSILE LOOM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See under Shuttleless
looms
See under Shuttleless
looms
MISSING END defects See End out. See End out.
MISSING PICK defects See Broken pick See Broken pick
MISSING YARN defects Fabric defect, in
circular knit fabric
Fabric defect, in circular
knit fabric, caused by one
end of yarn missing from
feed and the machine
continues to run.
MISTRAL fabrics The name given to a
crpe-effect worsted
cloth.
The name given to a crpe-
effect worsted cloth.
Twisted warp and weft
yarns are used.
MIXED END defects Also called Wrong
end. Fabric defect.
Also called Wrong end.
Fabric defect. A yarn
differing from that normally
being used in the fabric,
such as incorrect twist,
number of plies, wrong
color, or from wrong yarn
lot.
In woven and warp-knitted
545
Word Category Short description Description
fabrics the defect appears
as a vertical line running
warpway; in weft-knitted
fabrics, as a horizontal
stripe running across the
fabric and repeated at
regular intervals
MIXED FABRIC fabrics See Mixture fabric. See Mixture fabric.
MIXED FILLING defects Fabric defect, major, in
woven fabrics.
Fabric defect, major, in
woven fabrics. Also called
Change-in filling,
Discolored pick, Filling
band, Shade bar, Wrong
color pick. A weft yarn
differing from that normally
being used in the fabric or
caused by a bobbin of
lightweight yarn used in
weft. Will appear as a
distinct shade change. See
also Filling band. (Compare
Barr.)
MIXED WARP ENDS defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. These come
from ends of varying
thickness or plies.
Attributed to mixed yarn
spools during the warp
dressing operation.
MIXED WEFT defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. An
unintentional mixing or two
or more lots of yarns. This
may lead to the formation
of weft bars
MIXED YARN defects Fabric defect, major, in
warp knit fabric.
Fabric defect, major, in
warp knit fabric. Resulting
from wrong fibre yarn (or
wrong size yarn) placed on
the warp. Fabric could
appear as thick end or
different color, if fibres have
different affinity for dye.
MIXING general Blending of quantities
of fibres from several
lots to produce a
uniform result.
Blending of quantities of
fibres from several lots to
produce a uniform result. In
textile operations this term
means the use of one kind
of fibre, while the term
blending is generally used
546
Word Category Short description Description
for dissimilar fibres,
colours, etc. This distinction
does not follow in the words
mixture and blends.
MIXTURE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
YARN. A yarn spun
from blends of
different materials,
colour, lustre, which
are mixed prior to the
first spinning process.
1. YARN. A yarn spun from
blends of different
materials, colour, lustre,
which are mixed prior to the
first spinning process. Each
fibre is one colour only, as
distinguished from melange
yarn, which has more than
one colour printed on it
during the top or sliver
stage.
2. FABRIC. A fabric made
of mixture yarn, in warp/or
weft, and fabric with two or
more different types of
fibre.
MIXTURE CRPE fabrics A crpe fabric made
with different fibre in
warp and weft
A crpe fabric made with
different fibre in warp and
weft
MIXTURE FABRIC fabrics The fabric composed
of a mixture of yarns
made from different
types of fibres
The fabric composed of a
mixture of yarns made from
different types of fibres, i.e.
use of two or more different
types of fibres in a fabric,
each fibre being spun into a
separate yarn, e.g. a cheap
blazer cloth could be made
having a cotton warp and a
wool weft; it is therefore a
mixture of wool and cotton.
There are basic reasons
why mixtures of yarns of
different type are used, and
the reasons can apply in
combination as well as
separately; for economy (to
reduce the cost of a fabric
by the use of a cheap yarn
type mixed with a more
expensive yarn type), for
combination properties (to
effect a compromise where
no one yarn type is ideal by
combining two or more yarn
547
Word Category Short description Description
types each contribut-ing
something to the whole)
and for decorative or color
effect (some yarn types
have a distinctive
appearance, lustre or
texture, and yarn types vary
in their affinity for dye. Yarn
types can be com-bined to
give certain decorative
textural or color effects
arising from the differences
referred to. Also called
Mixed fabric. See also
Blend fabrics.
MIXTURE INGRAIN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Worsted. See under Worsted.
MIXTURE YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Colour
terms, Worsted.
See under Colour terms,
Worsted.
MOCCA general An embroidery term to
designate the entire
open eyelet covered
with spider-like
stitches.
An embroidery term to
designate the entire open
eyelet covered with spider-
like stitches.
MOCHA LEATHER fabrics Fine, soft sheepskin
leather from Africa and
the Middle East.
Fine, soft sheepskin leather
from Africa and the Middle
East.
MOCK general,
fabrics
Imitation. 1. Imitation.
2. To be opposed. Two
ends that lift opposite to
each other are described
as mocking, e. g. in plain
weave, adjacent ends mock
in plain order.
MOCK CAKE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A package of yarn A package of yarn
produced by winding onto a
collapsible mandrel or
former, which is
subsequently removed.
MOCK CRPES fabrics A group of fabrics in
which the crpe effect
has been obtained
through other methods
than the use of crpe
twist yarns
A group of fabrics in which
the crpe effect has been
obtained through other
methods than the use of
crpe twist yarns; these
include design, weave or
548
Word Category Short description Description
finish. Alternate warp ends
of different twists will also
produce a crpe effect and
are used sometimes in
cotton and rayon fabrics.
MOCK DYEING processes,
operations
Process of heat
stabilization of yarns
Process of heat
stabilization of yarns. Yarns
are package dyed (water,
pressure, temperature) but
without any dyes or
chemicals in the bath.
MOCK FASHIONING processes,
operations
An imitation of the
fashion marks of fully-
fashioned hosiery
made on circular
knitted hose
An imitation of the fashion
marks of fully-fashioned
hosiery made on circular
knitted hose; consists of
tuck-like stitches made in
the calf of the stockings.
MOCK FLAT-FELLED
SEAM
general See Double welt
seam.
See Double welt seam.
MOCK FRENCH
SEAM
general A complex seam
formed on the inside of
the object with raw
edges enclosed and
no stitching rows
visible on the face side
A complex seam formed on
the inside of the object with
raw edges enclosed and no
stitching rows visible on the
face side; similar in
appearance to the French
seam but constructed
differently. A mock French
seam is made by (1)
placing two pieces of fabric
with face sides together, (2)
stitching on the 15 mm
seamline, (3) trimming both
seam allowances to 12
mm, (4) clipping or notching
as appropriate, 3 mm on
any curved edges in order
to lie flat upon completion,
(5) pressing open the
seam, (6) then pressing
under 6 mm of each of the
seam allowances toward
each other, matching, the
folded edges, and (7)
stitching together the two
seam allowances 15 mm
from the folded edges.
(Compare French seam.)
MOCK GAUZE fabrics See Perforated weave. See Perforated weave.
549
Word Category Short description Description
MOCK GRANDRELLE fabrics A single yarn with a
grandrelle effect, spun
from rovings of
different colours.
A single yarn with a
grandrelle effect, spun from
rovings of different colours.
MOCK LENO fabrics A weave in which the
warp yarns remain
parallel
A weave in which the warp
yarns remain parallel but
form open warp stripes by
programmed interlacing of
warp and weft yarns
simulating a leno
appearance.
MOCK LINKING processes,
operations
A use of random
linking where linking is
normally used
A use of random linking
where linking is normally
used, such as collar
attachment, the intention
being to make the seam
appear to have been linked
while gaining a faster
speed along with a cer-tain
amount of de-skilling.
MOCK ROMAINE fabrics Similar to romaine Similar to romaine, except
that the combination twist
yarns occur only in the
warp, with the weft
consisting of a single ply
viscose twist yarn.
MOCK SEAM garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Hose, knitted in
tubular form, but
seamed up the back to
imitate seam in fully-
fashioned stocking.
Hose, knitted in tubular
form, but seamed up the
back to imitate seam in
fully-fashioned stocking.
Mock fashion marks are
often put on the back to
make the imitation look
better.
MOCK SPACE
WEAVING MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A multi-tier weaving
machine for narrow
fabrics.
A multi-tier weaving
machine for narrow fabrics.
In this, all pieces being
woven in any one row are
so spaced as to lie
immediately above or
below the landings of those
in a vertically adjacent row.
MOCK VOILE fabrics A plain weave cotton
fabric, woven from
hard-twisted single
yarns
A plain weave cotton fabric,
woven from hard-twisted
single yarns (instead of
two-fold), and woven with
one thread per dent.
550
Word Category Short description Description
MOCK-CHENILLE
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A type of fancy yarn. A type of fancy yarn. A
doubled corkscrew yarn. It
is made by doubling
together two or more
unbalanced corkscrew
yarns in the reverse
direction with sufficient twist
to form a balanced struc-
ture.
MOCK-SAFETY
STITCH
general A type of overedge
stitch
A type of overedge stitch,
which has an appearance
similar to that of a safety
stitch on the top surface of
the material but has a
common looper thread
joining the two rows of
stitching, which can be
seen underneath the fabric.
MOCK-TWIST YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
An imitation ply spiral
yarn, it is a fancy
single yarn produced
by feeding two
different coloured
rovings into the
spinning frame.
An imitation ply spiral yarn,
it is a fancy single yarn
produced by feeding two
different coloured rovings
into the spinning frame.
The resultant single yarn
resembles a two-ply yarn
made of two different
coloured single yarns and
gives a mottled effect.
Similar to double-and-twist
yarn, but the colours are
not as sharply or regularly
outlined.
MODACRYLIC FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured fibre
in which the fibre-
forming substance is
any long chain
synthetic polymer
composed of less than
85 % but at least 35 %
by weight of
acrylonitrile units
A manufactured fibre in
which the fibre-forming
substance is any long chain
synthetic polymer
composed of less than 85
% but at least 35 % by
weight of acrylonitrile units,
except fibres qualifying
under Rubber, 2, and
Anidex.
These are modified acrylic
fibres. Fibres are very
similar, in general
characteristics, to acrylic fi-
bres, in that they have a
warm handle and bulk well.
551
Word Category Short description Description
Its outstanding property is
flame resistance and in this
respect it is superior to
ordinary acrylic fibres. Used
for fur fabrics, warm
textured nightwear fabrics,
particularly for children
where safety from fire risk
is absolutely essential.
Washing properties are
similar to those for acrylic
fibres, but with particular
attention to heat as this is
even more sensitive than
acrylic fibres
MODAL FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Generic name for
regenerated cellulose
fibres obtained by
processes giving a
high tenacity and a
high wet modulus;
Generic name for
regenerated cellulose fibres
obtained by processes
giving a high tenacity and a
high wet modulus; the term
polynosic being used for
those with the highest wet
modulus. In han-dle and
appearance the fibre is
somewhat similar to a good
quality mercerised cotton.
See Polynosic fibre
MODEL garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The original garment
made up from a
design
The original garment made
up from a design. The
original sample.
MODIFIED ACETATE
FIBRES
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Stretching the fibres
followed by a
treatment with an
alkali.
Stretching the fibres
followed by a treatment
with an alkali.
MODIFIED
CELLULOSE FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Cotton fibres that have
not been treated with
caustic soda to
change their chemical
and physical
properties
Cotton fibres that have not
been treated with caustic
soda to change their
chemical and physical
properties so that the fibres
which have been modified
in this way will have
increased strength, better
affinity for dye, and
increased lustre.
MODIFIED
CONTINUOUS
FILAMENT YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
This broad general
classification refers
principally to man-
made fibre yarns
This broad general
classification refers
principally to man-made
fibre yarns, such as stretch
552
Word Category Short description Description
yarns, textured yarns, bulk
yarns.
MODIFIED RAYON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Rayon filaments or
fibres, composed of
principally of
regenerated cellulose
Rayon filaments or fibres,
composed of principally of
regenerated cellulose, into
which are incorporated
other non-regenerated
cellulose fibre-forming
materials such as casein or
other proteins. This effect
changes in the dyeing
qualities of the rayon
filaments or fibres.
MODIFIED STAPLE
FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Rayon staple that has
been treated to give it
wool-like
characteristics.
Rayon staple that has been
treated to give it wool-like
characteristics. A more
desirable term is
Animalized viscose rayon
fibres
MODIFIED
WORSTED SYSTEM
processes,
operations
A worsted system for
spinning man-made
fibres
A worsted system for
spinning man-made fibres
which relies on pin control
of fibres during sliver
weight reduction, but which
bypasses the system of
combing required with wool
to remove noil. Same as
Parallel worsted system.
MODIFIED YARNS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Textured, lofted or
modified yarns.
See Textured, lofted or
modified yarns.
MODULUS fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
Initial linear
relationships between
stress and strain as
observed from the
stress-strain curve of a
fibre
1. Initial linear relationships
between stress and strain
as observed from the
stress-strain curve of a
fibre. Relates to fibre
stiffness, hence drapability
and hand of fabrics.
2. Measure of elasticity or
stretch in textile fabrics. In
swimwear and foundation
garments, stretch and
recovery are very important
properties.
MOGADOR fabrics The name was of the
silk fabric used for
mens cravats
The name was of the silk
fabric used for mens
cravats, but it is now used
for an acetate fabric
553
Word Category Short description Description
resembling faille. It is still
mainly used for mens ties
MOHAIR fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The hair of the angora
goat.
The hair of the angora goat.
A white hair up to 10 in.
long, from the Angora goat
(found in Turkey, South
Africa and USA). Unlike
sheeps wool, it is not curly.
It is stronger than wool and
produces hardwearing
fabrics; it dyes well and has
an attractive luster; but it is
very expensive and is
difficult to spin. The hair
can be used for knitting
yarn, and can be mixed
with other fibres to make
warm, lightweight fabrics.
MOHAIR BRAID accessories Any type of braid
made from, usually,
genapped mohair
yarns.
Any type of braid made
from, usually, genapped
mohair yarns. Typically
dyed black and used on
uniform caps.
MOHAIR SUITING fabrics Mohair can be
combined with worsted
yarn, or woven alone,
to produce a very
lightweight, shiny,
attractive suiting fabric
Mohair can be combined
with worsted yarn, or
woven alone, to produce a
very lightweight, shiny,
attractive suiting fabric.
Used for mens lightweight
suits, dinner jackets, etc.
MOHAIR WOOL fabrics Thick, spongy, open
fabric, in plain weave,
with a very hairy
texture.
Thick, spongy, open fabric,
in plain weave, with a very
hairy texture. Its
composition is usually 70 %
mohair and 30 % wool. It is
very bulky and can be used
for warm, lightweight lined
coats, but is best for simple
wrap-over jackets,
sleeveless waistcoats, etc.,
which are unlined, and is
excellent for shawls and
stoles. It is soft and may
seat.
MOIR FABRIC fabrics A ribbed or corded
fabric that has been
subjected to heat and
heavy pressure by
A ribbed or corded fabric
that has been subjected to
heat and heavy pressure by
rollers after weaving so as
554
Word Category Short description Description
rollers after weaving
so as to present a
rippled appearance.
to present a rippled
appearance. The effect
arises from differences in
reflection of the flattened
and the unaffected parts.
The finish is not necessarily
permanent. Also called wa-
tered, watermark.
MOIR FAULT defects An undesirable
shaded effect
produced when the
weave pattern of one
fabric is accidentally
impressed on to the
face of another fabric
An undesirable shaded
effect produced when the
weave pattern of one fabric
is accidentally impressed
on to the face of another
fabric, usually under heat
and pressure during
processing, e.g. beam
dyeing, etc
MOIR FINISH fabrics A watered or rippled
appearance on the
surface of a fabric.
A watered or rippled
appearance on the surface
of a fabric. The effect is
obtained by passing two
layers of a rib or cord fabric
between heavy heated
rollers or by passing the
fabric between suitably
engraved calender rollers.
Originally developed for silk
fabrics, good results can be
obtained on cotton and
man-made fibre fabrics.
There are many styles of
moir finish.
MOIR TAFFETA fabrics Taffeta weave fabric
made from silk or
synthetic fibres and
then embossed with a
moir pattern.
Taffeta weave fabric made
from silk or synthetic fibres
and then embossed with a
moir pattern. The
embossing may or may not
be permanent depending
on the fibre and the
processing. See Taf-feta
and Moir.
MOIRETTE fabrics A plain woven cotton
fabric, with a
predominance of warp
or weft
A plain woven cotton fabric,
with a predominance of
warp or weft, creating lines
across or down the fabric
respectively with a moir
finish. Polished cotton is
used.
555
Word Category Short description Description
MOIST CURING processes,
operations
See under Curing. See under Curing.
MOISTURE general Water absorbed,
adsorbed or resorbed
by a material.
Water absorbed, adsorbed
or resorbed by a material.
See also Water
MOISTURE AS
RECEIVED
general See Moisture content Deprecated term.See
Moisture content
MOISTURE AS-IS general A deprecated term. A deprecated term. See
Moisture content.
MOISTURE
CONTENT
general The ratio of the
moisture in a material
to the total moist
mass.
The ratio of the moisture in
a material to the total moist
mass. The ratio is usually
expressed as a percentage
and is calculated as
follows:

See Table: Physical
characteristics of man-
made and natural fibres.
MOISTURE
EQUILIBRIUM
general The condition reached
by a material when it
no longer takes up
moisture from, or gives
up moisture to, the
surrounding
atmosphere.
The condition reached by a
material when it no longer
takes up moisture from, or
gives up moisture to, the
surrounding atmosphere.
(Compare Moisture-free.)
MOISTURE PICK-UP general The mass of absorbed
and adsorbed water
that is held by
material, compared to
the mass of the dried
material.
The mass of absorbed and
adsorbed water that is held
by material, compared to
the mass of the dried
material. (Compare
Moisture content, and
Moisture regain.)
MOISTURE REGAIN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Regain. Also called Regain. The
ratio of the mass of
moisture in a material to the
oven-dry mass. The ratio is
usually expressed as a
percentage and is
calculated as follows:
MOISTURE, WET-
BASIS
general Deprecated term. Deprecated term. See
Moisture content.
MOISTURE-FREE general a material that has
been treated by a
distillation process
using a suitable
solvent.
A descriptive term for:
1. a material that has been
exposed to a flow of
desiccated air at a specified
temperature until there is
556
Word Category Short description Description
no further significant
change in mass, or
2. a material that has been
treated by a distillation
process using a suitable
solvent.
Also called Zero moisture.
(Compare Moisture
equilibrium.)
MOITY WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Wool containing
vegetable matters like
straw, hay, twigs, etc.,
picked up by sheep
while grazing.
Wool containing vegetable
matters like straw, hay,
twigs, etc., picked up by
sheep while grazing.
MOLDED FABRIC fabrics A fabric made of
thermoplastic fibres
that has heat and
pressure applied to it
to change the
molecular structure of
the fibres and to
stabilize the shape.
A fabric made of
thermoplastic fibres that
has heat and pressure
applied to it to change the
molecular structure of the
fibres and to stabilize the
shape. This process of
molding may be used on
flat fabrics as well as on
pile surfaces. Molded
fabrics retain their shape
permanently; heat,
washing, wear and
moisture have no effect.
Used for slip covers,
upholstery, transportation
cloth, swimwear,
brassires, shoes and
gloves
MOLECULAR
ORIENTATION
processes,
operations,
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The preferred direction
of linear molecules in
the structure of fibres.
The preferred direction of
linear molecules in the
structure of fibres. In man-
made fibres the orientation
is usually parallel to the
fibre axis as a result of
extrusion, stretching, or
drawing. In natural fibres
the predominant direction is
determined during growth,
e.g. a helix around the fibre
axis in cotton.
Unoriented structures are
those in which orientation is
absent. Disoriented
557
Word Category Short description Description
structures are those in
which orientation has been
reduced or eliminated as a
result of a disrupting
treatment.
MOLESKIN fabrics Strong, fine cotton
fabric lightly napped
and sheared on the
wrong side.
Strong, fine cotton fabric
lightly napped and sheared
on the wrong side. Once
only a cloth for protective
clothing, particularly
dungarees and trousers,
because of its durability
and additional warmth on
the inside, but other fibres
such as worsted may be
used to produce good
quality cloth for mens suits,
and it is also made as a
lining fabric. The term now
refers to any cloth with a
short mole-like nap.
MOLLETON fabrics A heavy reversible
cloth with a nap on
both sides; originally
made in wool.
A heavy reversible cloth
with a nap on both sides;
originally made in wool.
MOLTEN-METAL
DYEING
processes,
operations
A method of
continuous dyeing in
which material is
impregnated with an
aqueous liquid
containing dye and
chemicals
A method of continuous
dyeing in which material is
impregnated with an
aqueous liquid containing
dye and chemicals and
then passed through a bath
of liquid low-melting alloy
usually below 100 C.
MOMIE CLOTH fabrics See Mummy cloth. See Mummy cloth.
MOMME general A J apanese
measurement of mass
equivalent to 3.75 g
(approximately).
A J apanese measurement
of mass equivalent to 3.75
g (approximately). The
higher the momme, the
heavier the fabric.
MONKS CLOTH fabrics See Abbot cloth See Abbot cloth
MONKEY FUR fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A long-haired fur used
in small amounts
mainly as trimming.
A long-haired fur used in
small amounts mainly as
trimming. It can be cut and
made into fur fringe.
MONO-CHROME
DYEING
processes,
operations
See Meta-chrome
dyeing.
See Meta-chrome dyeing.
MONOFILAMENT fibers, A single filament which A single filament which can
558
Word Category Short description Description
YARN filaments,
yarns
can function as a yarn
in commercial textile
operations, i.e. it must
be strong and flexible
enough to be knitted,
woven, or braided, etc
function as a yarn in
commercial textile
operations, i.e. it must be
strong and flexible enough
to be knitted, woven, or
braided, etc. Instead of a
group of filaments being
extruded through a
spinneret to form a yarn,
monofilaments generally
are spun individually. They
may be of various cross-
sections, such as to
suggest horsehair, straw,
hair, etc. See Yarn.
MONOMER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A small, simple,
chemical compound
from which a polymer
may be formed.
A small, simple, chemical
compound from which a
polymer may be formed. In
most cases a given
polymer is produced from a
variety of alternative
monomers. In some cases
two or more different
monomers are involved in
the production of a
polymer.
MONOTONE TWEED fabrics A mixture-effect tweed
made of yarns in
different shades of the
same colour.
A mixture-effect tweed
made of yarns in different
shades of the same colour.
MONOVOLTINE SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Silk produced by
monovoltine silk worm,
which produces one
generation per year
Silk produced by
monovoltine silk worm,
which produces one
generation per year
MONTAGNAC
FABRIC
fabrics A curly woollen fabric
with an astrakhan-like
pile, produced by
cutting some of the
weft floats and leaving
others uncut
A curly woollen fabric with
an astrakhan-like pile,
produced by cutting some
of the weft floats and
leaving others uncut. It is
subsequently brushed to
form a very warm and
durable fabric.
MOQUTTE fabrics One of the best known
and hardest wearing
furnishing fabrics,
used for covering
chairs, upholstery,
curtains and drapes,
One of the best known and
hardest wearing furnishing
fabrics, used for covering
chairs, upholstery, curtains
and drapes, table cloths,
etc., and probably the most
559
Word Category Short description Description
table cloths, etc., and
probably the most
popular until the
advent of the more
luxurious Dralon
velvet.
popular until the advent of
the more luxurious Dralon
velvet. Moquette can be
made in three types, one
with cut pile, another uncut,
and one combining both cut
and uncut. The pile is
worsted, mohair or nylon,
the backing wool or cotton.
Its great advantage is that,
although a pile cloth, it
does not become flattened
by pressure, e.g. sitting on
it. Very tough and heavy;
pile will shed from cut
edges while sewing on it.
MORDANT apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Sometimes also called
Drug.
Sometimes also called
Drug. An agent, often in the
form of a metallic oxide,
which has an affinity for the
cloth and an attraction for
the colouring matter and so
in combining with them it
forms an insoluble colour
lake complex on the cloth
which is retained by the
substrate more firmly than
the dye itself.
MORDANT DYES apparatus,
equipage,
tools
These are dyes that
are applied to the fibre
in conjunction with a
metal salt; a mordant.
These are dyes that are
applied to the fibre in
conjunction with a metal
salt; a mordant. The dye-
metal complex possesses
greater fastness than the
dye alone. But, basic dyes
which are applied by
means of mordant and
some direct dyes, requiring
a metallic salt treatment to
obtain full fastness, are
conventionally excluded
from the mordant group.
Mordant dyes are:
suitable for cellulose
acetate, celulose triacetate,
and polyester fibres, but the
usage is now de-clining.
suitable for cotton, linen,
viscose rayon, and
560
Word Category Short description Description
cuprammonium rayon
fibres, but now obsolete.
MORDANT PRINTING processes,
operations
See Mordanting. See Mordanting.
MORDANTING processes,
operations
A process of
impregnating textiles
with a mordant,
usually salt or acid, to
fasten the dyestuff,
which is applied before
or after mordanting
A process of impregnating
textiles with a mordant,
usually salt or acid, to
fasten the dyestuff, which is
applied before or after
mordanting. The mordant is
sometimes also applied at
the same time as the
dyestuff.
MOREEN fabrics Also called Morine. Also called Morine. A repp
cloth, woven with a coarse
cotton weft and a fine
cotton warp, the cloth
having a moir finish
MORINE fabrics See Moreen. See Moreen.
MOROCCO
LEATHER
fabrics Term now refers to
leather that has been
tanned chemically
Term now refers to leather
that has been tanned
chemically although it once
referred to leather only from
Morocco.
MOSAIC CANVAS fabrics A fine silk or cotton
canvas used as a
base for embroidery.
A fine silk or cotton canvas
used as a base for
embroidery.
MOSCOW fabrics Heavy weight,
overcoating of the
shaggy, napped type,
used as winterwear.
Heavy weight, overcoating
of the shaggy, napped type,
used as winterwear. Cloth
gives warmth and
somewhat resembles
heavy Shetland cloth.
There are many types and
grades of the cloth, ranging
from very cheap quality to
highly expensive.
MOSQUITO NET fabrics See Bobbin net. See Bobbin net.
MOSS CORD accessories See Crpe cord. See Crpe cord.
MOSS CRPE fabrics A fabric made with a
moss crpe weave
and S- and Z-twist
moss crpe yarns in
warp and weft, made
in acetate, cotton,
wool, polyester or
viscose.
A fabric made with a moss
crpe weave and S- and Z-
twist moss crpe yarns in
warp and weft, made in
acetate, cotton, wool,
polyester or viscose. This
fabric has a characteristic
spongy handle. Various
561
Word Category Short description Description
combinations of (i) moss
crpe weave with other
yarn and (ii) moss crpe
yarns with other weaves
are possible. All the
resulting fabrics have some
but not all the
characteristics of true moss
crpes.
MOSS CRPE
WEAVE
fabrics A crpe weave with a
repeat in the warp and
weft directions
A crpe weave with a
repeat in the warp and weft
directions relatively large
compared with that of many
other crpe weaves.
MOSS CRPE YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A two-ply yarn made
by doubling a normal-
twist yarn with a high-
twist yarn
A two-ply yarn made by
doubling a normal-twist
yarn with a high-twist yarn,
all twists being in the same
direction (S or Z
MOSS FINISH processes,
operations
A fibrous structure
produced by heavily
fulling woollen fabrics,
A fibrous structure
produced by heavily fulling
woollen fabrics, although
the weave remains
distinctly visible.
MOSS YARN
MOSS YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A coarse woollen yarn
with a fuzzy surface.
Used for embroidery.
A coarse woollen yarn with
a fuzzy surface. Used for
embroidery.
MOTE TRASH defects See Trash. See Trash.
MOTELY fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Same as Mixture,
especially an
incongruous mixture.
Same as Mixture,
especially an incongruous
mixture.
MOTES fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
Black spots in yarn or
cloth due to presence
of these impurities.
1. Impurities in cotton
consisting of tiny specks of
cotton seed, or sometimes
a whole, immature,
undeveloped small cotton
seed.
2. Black spots in yarn or
cloth due to presence of
these impurities.
MOTH PROOFING processes,
operations
The treatment of wool
fabrics with repellents
The treatment of wool
fabrics with repellents to
make them less susceptible
to clothmoths.
MOTH REPELLENT processes,
operations
The process of
applying special
chemical compounds
The process of applying
special chemical
compounds on fabrics,
562
Word Category Short description Description
on fabrics, garments, garments, and also on
upholstery, carpets, etc., to
impart them the ability to
resist attack by moths,
carpet beetles and other
insects.
MOTH RESISTANT
FINISH
processes,
operations
Chemically imparted
resistance to damage
by the larvae of the
clothesmoth and
carpetbeetle.
Chemically imparted
resistance to damage by
the larvae of the
clothesmoth and
carpetbeetle. Mothproofing
of garments, knitting yarns,
blankets and carpets is now
more generally practiced.
MOTIF fabrics A design, repeat,
pattern or figure used
to give a certain effect
in a fabric.
A design, repeat, pattern or
figure used to give a certain
effect in a fabric.
MOTION MARK defects Fabric defect. A bar,
seen in woven fabric,
which usually shades
away to normal fabric
at both its edges.
Fabric defect. A bar, seen
in woven fabric, which
usually shades away to
normal fabric at both its
edges. It owes its
appearance to a change in
pick spacing, and may
repeat at regular intervals
throughout an appreciable
length or even the whole
length of the piece. It is
usually caused due to
some mechanical fault on
the loom. Bars of this type
associated with the take-up
or let-off motions are also
referred to as motion marks
MOTTLED FABRIC defects Fabric defect, may be
major or minor.
Fabric defect, may be
major or minor. A term
used to describe faulty
printing, dyeing or finishing,
where a color does not
apply evenly on the fabric
and appear as blotched,
cloudy or mottled. Most
often the cause is the
slippage or inaccuracy in a
roller setting. See also
Cloudy goods.
MOTTLED YARN fibers, See Marled yarn. See Marled yarn.
563
Word Category Short description Description
filaments,
yarns
MOUFFLIN fabrics A double-faced thick
coating fabric which is
soft and has an open,
airy surface.
A double-faced thick
coating fabric which is soft
and has an open, airy
surface. The yarns used
are mainly wool, or wool
mixed with acrylic or mohair
and used for coats and
capes.
MOULDING processes,
operations
The application of heat
and/or pressure to
fabric on a pre-shaped
mould
The application of heat
and/or pressure to fabric on
a pre-shaped mould, to
shape a garment or
garment parts.
MOULINAGE processes,
operations
A French word, which
means to throw silk.
A French word, which
means to throw silk.
MOULINE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A French term for ply
yarns made of
variously coloured
strands.
A French term for ply yarns
made of variously coloured
strands. Used for dress
fabrics and suiting.
MOUNTAIN CORK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A variety of asbestos. A variety of asbestos.
MOUNTAIN FLESH fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A flexible variety of
asbestos.
A flexible variety of
asbestos.
MOUNTAIN
LEATHER
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A variety of asbestos
consisting of naturally
felted asbestos fibres.
A variety of asbestos
consisting of naturally felted
asbestos fibres.
MOURNING CRPE fabrics Any cloth made with a
crpe weave and dull
finish used for
mourning purposes.
Any cloth made with a
crpe weave and dull finish
used for mourning
purposes.
MOUSE SKIN fabrics See Duvetyn. See Duvetyn.
MOUSSELINE fabrics The French word
literally means muslin,
but now it is used to
describe a better
quality wool or silk
fabric of this nature.
The French word literally
means muslin, but now it is
used to describe a better
quality wool or silk fabric of
this nature.
Silk mousseline: Firmer
than chiffon fabric, and is
cool and comfortable, but it
does not wear well as
laundering spoils it and dry
cleaning is not always
satisfactory. Used for
564
Word Category Short description Description
evening dresses.
Wool mousseline: Made
from worsted yarn into a
plain or printed lightweight
wool fabric. Excel-lent for
dresses.
Cotton mousseline: See
Butter muslin
MOUSSELINE DE
SOIE
fabrics Literally, muslin of silk Literally, muslin of silk; silk
organdie, a plain weave,
silk chiffon-weight fabric
with slight stiff-ness.
MOUTH apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In zippers, the opening
in a slider that
receives the chain.
In zippers, the opening in a
slider that receives the
chain.
MOUTH WIDTH apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In zippers, the
measurement between
the slider flanges
In zippers, the
measurement between the
slider flanges at the point
where they bear against the
shoulders of the interlocked
elements or at the
outermost edges of the
bead if the bead extends
beyond the elements
MOUTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A short to medium
length fur with dense
pile; the trade name
for processed,
sheared sheep.
A short to medium length
fur with dense pile; the
trade name for processed,
sheared sheep. Usually
dyed beaver colour, or dark
brown, beige, grey, and
occasionally red, green and
blue. It has very good
wearing qualities and
judged by density of pile,
softness, and pliability of
pelt. Used for sports,
business and schoolwear.
MOVABLE
RETAINER
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In zippers, a movable
or sliding device
performing a similar
function to that of the
fixed retainer
In zippers, a movable or
sliding device performing a
similar function to that of
the fixed retainer, the
purpose being to permit
separation of the two
stringers from the bottom,
without the necessity of
opening the zipper from the
top. The device is not
removable from the bottom
565
Word Category Short description Description
of the zipper.
MOVE NUMBER fabrics Also called step
number.
Also called step number.
The number of picks by
which the interlacing of a
warp thread in a weave
moves upwards relative to
the warp thread on its
immediate left. Move
number can be used to
describe weaves.
MOZAMBIQUE fabrics A lightweight, open
weave gauze fabric
A lightweight, open weave
gauze fabric made with
combed cotton warp and
mohair warp in fancy
plaids, checks, openwork
patterns, etc.
MUFF fibers,
filaments,
yarns
An unsupported cross-
wound package in the
shape of a ladys muff.
An unsupported cross-
wound package in the
shape of a ladys muff.
Each muff has a piece of
stockinette threaded
through the centre and
brought round each end to
enclose. Yarns are
conveniently dyed in this
form. See also Mock cake.
MUFF DYEING processes,
operations
Skeins of yarns are
wound on reels and
steam-bulked to form
packages called muffs.
Skeins of yarns are wound
on reels and steam-bulked
to form packages called
muffs. Muffs are dyed in a
horizontal machine at
around 140 C., dyed yarn
is then unwound. See
Chromatic dye-ing.
MUGA SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Assam silk,
Munga silk.
Also called Assam silk,
Munga silk. This silk is
obtained from a species of
Indian moth, and is a wild
silk producing a rough
surfaced lightweight fabric.
MUL MUSLIN fabrics A fine white muslin
which receives no
sizing. Used for
dresses.
A fine white muslin which
receives no sizing. Used for
dresses.
MULBERRY SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Mulberry is a hardy
perennial tree
Mulberry is a hardy
perennial tree. Silk
obtained from those
566
Word Category Short description Description
silkworms (Bombyx mori),
which feed on the mulberry
leaves are called mulberry
silk. These are made into
fine fabrics, such as Geor-
gette.
MULE SPINNING processes,
operations
A system of yarn
spinning, using a
mule machine.
A system of yarn spinning,
using a mule machine.
The machine draws out and
twists a length of yarn, then
winds it up in the form of a
cop, repeating the cycle
several times a minute.
This gives an extremely
fine cotton yarn, but it is a
slower process than ring
spinning.
MULE TWIST fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A cotton yarn spun on
a mule spinning frame,
as distinguished from
cotton yarn spun on a
ring spinning frame.
A cotton yarn spun on a
mule spinning frame, as
distinguished from cotton
yarn spun on a ring
spinning frame. It is usually
softer or more lofty than
ring spun yarn.
MULL fabrics A fabric type of
lightweight cotton voile
A fabric type of lightweight
cotton voile, which was
once a dress fabric but is
now almost entirely
confined to use as an
underlining fabric, and for
experimenting in draping
styles, e.g. toils. Is also
used for Eastern turbans.
MULMUL fabrics Original term for mull,
derived from the
Indian and Persian
term malmal.
Original term for mull,
derived from the Indian and
Persian term malmal. Now
used for mull or muslin.
MULTI-AXIAL FABRIC fabrics A warp-knitted
construction
A warp-knitted construction
in which, substantially
straight, additional threads
are inserted vertically
(warp), horizontally (weft)
and diagonally throughout
the complete width and
length of the fabric
MULTI-PHASE LOOM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A loom in which two or
more weaving cycles,
phased differently,
A loom in which two or
more weaving cycles,
phased differently, operate
567
Word Category Short description Description
operate concurrently concurrently to insert weft
in the same warp
MULTI-PIECE
WEAVING MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A narrow-fabric
weaving machine
A narrow-fabric weaving
machine equipped for the
simultaneous weaving of
two or more pieces.
MULTI-PROCESS
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A generic identification
for filament yarns that
have been subjected
to at least two
texturing techniques.
A generic identification for
filament yarns that have
been subjected to at least
two texturing techniques.
See also Single-process
yarns
MULTICOMPONENT
FABRIC
fabrics A fabric in which at
least two layers of
material are sealed
together by an
adhesive or other
process.
A fabric in which at least
two layers of material are
sealed together by an
adhesive or other process.
MULTIFILAMENT
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Yarn consisting of
more than one fine
filament, usually 60 or
more.
Yarn consisting of more
than one fine filament,
usually 60 or more. See
Continuous filament yarn
MULTILEVEL PILE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
In pile yarn floor-
covering, pile in which
some tuft legs are
substantially longer
than others.
In pile yarn floor-covering,
pile in which some tuft legs
are substantially longer
than others.
MULTILOBAL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Man-made fibres and
filaments are usually
produced with a
circular cross-section,
but fibres are now
available with trilobal
cross-sections,
octalobal cross-
sections, etc.
Man-made fibres and
filaments are usually
produced with a circular
cross-section, but fibres are
now available with trilobal
cross-sections, octalobal
cross-sections, etc. The
physical and chemical
characteristics are the
same as the standard yarn,
but the multilobal structure
gives a unique highlight
and sparkle effect to the
fabrics produced from
these yarns. Prints applied
to both woven and knitted
fabric have a good clarity
and definition.
Other variations in cross-
sections have included the
production of flat ribbon-like
568
Word Category Short description Description
filaments, used as
decorative yarns and
artificial grass.
MULTIPLE FABRIC fabrics Double, triple or even
quadruple cloth bound
together during
weaving by interlacing
the warp and weft of
the individual cloths
Double, triple or even
quadruple cloth bound
together during weaving by
interlacing the warp and
weft of the individual cloths.
These have broad
applications, particularly
industrial.
MULTIPLE LENGTH
STAPLE FIBRES
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Man-made staple
fibres that are two or
more times the
nominal cut fibre
length.
Man-made staple fibres
that are two or more times
the nominal cut fibre length.
(Compare Overlength
staple fibres.)
MULTIPLE WOUND fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Filament yarn
consisting of two or
more filaments.
Filament yarn consisting of
two or more filaments.
MULTIPLEX YARNS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A generic identification
for filament ply yarns
composed of singles
with varied kinds of
texturing.
A generic identification for
filament ply yarns
composed of singles with
varied kinds of texturing.
MULTISTEP ZIGZAG general A machine zigzag
pattern of stitching
A machine zigzag pattern
of stitching in which each
zigzag is formed of a
number of straight stitches
rather than of a single stitch
as in a standard zigzag
pattern.
MULTITHREAD
CHAIN STITCHES
general See Interlock stitches. See Interlock stitches.
MULTIVOLTINE SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Polyvoltine silk. See Polyvoltine silk.
MUMMY CANVAS fabrics Canvas similar to
Mummy Cloth.
Canvas similar to Mummy
Cloth., but with a coarse
mesh and an irregular,
rather than crpy, surface.
Used for embroidery.
MUMMY CLOTH fabrics Also called Grannie
cloth and Momie cloth.
Also called Grannie cloth
and Momie cloth. Fabric
with a crinkled surface like
crpe, but made with non-
crpe yarns and woven on
a dobby loom. It can be
569
Word Category Short description Description
bleached, dyed or printed.
The fibres include silk warp
and woolen weft or cotton
with silk. The fabric lacks
luster, and has been a
traditional mourning fabric,
but is not much used now.
The name is also used for
the fine linen fabric used in
ancient Egypt for wrapping
mummies.
MUNGA SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Muga silk See Muga silk
MUNGO fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
Cheap, poor quality
wool fabric made from
mill wastes.
1. Waste yarn from woollen
mills which is mixed with
other yarn, such as cotton,
to produce cheap cloth for
specialist use such as
backing fibre. See also Re-
manufactured wool.
2. Cheap, poor quality wool
fabric made from mill
wastes. Because of this the
fibre staple is short and it
does not wear well. Colours
are often poor and drab.
Not used for clothes, but
may be used for some
types of stage costume.
Also called Shoddy.
MUSHROOM
FASTERNER
accessories A fastener comprising
two tapes, both being
pile fabrics.
A fastener comprising two
tapes, both being pile
fabrics. One tape has
monofilament pile ends that
have been severed with the
aid of heat, thus providing
molten mushroom shaped
pile ends and the other
tape is usually from a
knitted fabric with loop pile.
On offering one tape to the
other, a secure closure is
obtained which can be
opened by peeling from
either end. See also Touch
and close fas-tener.
MUSLIN fabrics Also called Diaper Also called Diaper cloth.
570
Word Category Short description Description
cloth. Soft, light
weight, open cloth, of
plain weave or simple
leno weave, with a
rough finish.
Soft, light weight, open
cloth, of plain weave or
simple leno weave, with a
rough finish. The wide
unfinished variety is ideal to
use as a pressing cloth.
Muslin as a dress fabric is
rarely used now mainly due
to severe creasing and
shrinking problems. Difficult
to cut straight as the weave
is so open and movable.
Some of these cloths are
used in the grey, whereas
others meant for dress
fabrics are bleached and
dyed. See also Madras
muslin, and under
Sheeting.
Muslins, as applied to beds
sheeting, is a plain weave
fabric with not fewer than
128 yarns/inch2 (645
mm2).
MUSLINETTE fabrics A coarse muslin,
usually sized.
1. A coarse muslin, usually
sized.
2. In England, a trade term
for a heavy muslin fabric
used for dresses,
sometimes striped and
satin finished.
MUSQUASH fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fur from the coat of
the muskrat
Fur from the coat of the
muskrat. Long, downy, gray
fur with darker brown, but is
often dyed to various
colors, including pale honey
MUSSINESS defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Surface
distortion in a fabric
characterized by
undesirable unevenness
due to many minor
deformations
MUTKA fabrics A coarse, silk fabric
made in Punjab, India.
Generally green.
A coarse, silk fabric made
in Punjab, India. Generally
green. Used mainly for
loincloths.
MYSORE SILK fabrics A fine, soft Indian silk
dress material; very
A fine, soft Indian silk dress
material; very popular.
571
Word Category Short description Description
popular. Usually made in plain, dyed
or prints, generally with
floral designs

N

Word Category Short description Description
N.P.I. apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A term referring to the
Number of Needles
per Inch in the needle
bed or cylinder of a
knitting machine
A term referring to the
Number of Needles per
Inch in the needle bed or
cylinder of a knitting
machine; sometimes
mistakenly referred to as
gauge.
NACR PRINTS fabrics A blurred effect
produced by printing
cloth while it is damp,
so that colour seeps
away from design.
A blurred effect produced by
printing cloth while it is
damp, so that colour seeps
away from design. Similar to
result achieved by printing
warp yarns before weaving.
The word nacr means
changeable, iridescent
NACR VELVET fabrics A velvet fabric in which
the backing is woven in
a different color from
the pile
A velvet fabric in which the
backing is woven in a
different color from the pile,
giving an interesting,
changeable appearance in
wear.
NAILHEAD fabrics Woven-in designs
including dots, birds
eye, hopsack and
small houndstooth
Woven-in designs including
dots, birds eye, hopsack
and small houndstooth;
usually found in clear
finished, sharkskin type
worsteds.
NAINSOOK fabrics Soft, fine, light cotton
fabric made from
combed yarns, in plain
weave, often
mercerized, similar to
Batiste in the piece.
Soft, fine, light cotton fabric
made from combed yarns,
in plain weave, often
mercerized, similar to
Batiste in the piece. Once a
popular dress fabric but now
mainly used as ready-to-
apply soft cotton bias
binding.
NAINSOOK FINISH processes,
operations
A soft finish with slight
lustre on both sides of
the fabric.
A soft finish with slight lustre
on both sides of the fabric.
No sizing is used. English
572
Word Category Short description Description
nainsook has a soft finish,
while French nainsook has
crisper, calendered finish.
NAKED WOOL garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A new kind of
lightweight 100% wool
garment.
A new kind of lightweight
100% wool garment.
Claimed to be always
naturally comfortable,
warm when the weather is
chilly, and cool when the
weather is chilly, and cool
when it is hot.
NANDEL fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
Acrylic fabrics with
rotofil yarn made of
short fibres bound
together by a surface
filament fibre.
Acrylic fabrics with rotofil
yarn made of short fibres
bound together by a surface
filament fibre. The
filament/staple wrapped
yarn made by a special
process. Fabrics made of
this yarn are fuzz resistant,
pill resistant, shrink
resistant, wrinkle resistant,
machine washable, dryable,
needs little or no ironing and
have good dimensional
stability. Used for dress and
sport shirts.
NAP fabrics A fuzzy or downy
surface produced on a
fabric or felt in which,
part of the fibre is
raised from the basic
structure, either on one
side or both
A fuzzy or downy surface
produced on a fabric or felt
in which, part of the fibre is
raised from the basic
structure, either on one side
or both. Nap may be raised
in stripes or other patterns
or may be sheared to obtain
uniform length. Loosely
twisted yarns are
incorporated in fabric, which
is to be napped to facilitate
this process; generally used
in the weft. The interlacings
between the warp and weft
threads are covered to a
great extent by the nap,
which also acts as an
insulator. The length of the
nap varies in the different
fabrics which are given this
type of finish, e.g. flannel,
573
Word Category Short description Description
blanketing, overcoating.
Certain knit goods also are
napped, such as the various
types of brushed knit fabrics
of man-made fibres. The
brushing is done generally
with wire brushes or teasel
burrs. Nap is not to be
confused with pile, which is
formed by extra yarn in a
different operation.
NAPERY fabrics A general term for
tablecloths, napkins
and other household
linens, made of linen or
cotton.
A general term for
tablecloths, napkins and
other household linens,
made of linen or cotton.
NAPHTHALATING processes,
operations
A process by which
virgin wool is gently
cleansed in three baths
of naphtha and then
rinsed in clean flowing
water.
A process by which virgin
wool is gently cleansed in
three baths of naphtha and
then rinsed in clean flowing
water. No soap or alkaline
solutions are used; raking,
forking, and excessive
handling are eliminated. The
wool retains its original life,
strength, and resiliency.
NAPHTHOL
COLOURS
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Azoic dyes See Azoic dyes
NAPIER fabrics A double-faced
overcoating with wool
face and vicuna or
goats hair back.
1. A double-faced
overcoating with wool face
and vicuna or goats hair
back.
2. A floor covering of good
quality made of hemp and
jute
NAPPA LEATHER fabrics This is the skin of
sheep or goats that
has been tanned by a
Californian process
using oil.
This is the skin of sheep or
goats that has been tanned
by a Californian process
using oil.
NAPPED FABRICS fabrics Fabrics finished with a
nap on one side or
both sides.
Fabrics finished with a nap
on one side or both sides.
The nap might cover the
entire fabric or only parts of
its surface
NAPPER apparatus, A finishing operation A finishing operation
574
Word Category Short description Description
equipage,
tools
machine on which
napping is carried out.
machine on which napping
is carried out. See Napping.
NAPPING processes,
operations
Also called Raising. Also called Raising. A
finishing process in which
part of the fibres from the
basic structure of a textile
material are raised to the
surface by means of
revolving cylinders covered
with metal points or teazle
burrs. Apart from teazling,
other means like brushing,
or rubbing also may be
employed for producing
such a layer of protruding
fibres on the surface of
fabrics. Napping finish is
usually given to fabrics such
as outing flannel, wool
broadcloth, knit goods,
blankets, etc.
NAPPING COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A generally short,
crinkly cotton fibre with
good napping
properties.
A generally short, crinkly
cotton fibre with good
napping properties. Used in
the manufacture of blankets
and other napped fabrics
serving as excellent
insulators because through
its use there are numerous
air cells or pockets.
NAPPY FABRIC defects Fabric defect. An
excessive number of
small tangles or knots
of fibre appearing on
the fabric surface.
Fabric defect. An excessive
number of small tangles or
knots of fibre appearing on
the fabric surface. The
defect is often caused by
poor carding or combing of
fibre or by contamination
during preparation for
spinning.
NARROW ELASTIC
FABRIC
fabrics An elastic fabric that is
less than 150 mm, in
width.
An elastic fabric that is less
than 150 mm, in width. The
main types are: (i) elastic
web or narrow woven
elastic, (ii) elastic braid, flat
or tubular, (iii) crochet-knit
elastic, and (iv) narrow
elastic lace. (Compare Wide
elastic fabric.)
575
Word Category Short description Description
NARROW FABRIC accessories Any textile fabric made
by interlacing fibres or
yarns which (in the
U.K.) does not exceed
45 cm, and (in the
U.S.A. and other
countries) does not
exceed 30 cm.
Any textile fabric made by
interlacing fibres or yarns
which (in the U.K.) does not
exceed 45 cm, and (in the
U.S.A. and other countries)
does not exceed 30 cm.
Narrow fabrics are
characterized by the edges,
which are their essential
feature.
The category of narrow
fabrics includes tapes,
ribbons, and webbings.
Narrow fabrics can be pro-
duced from any textile fibre,
including elastomers, by
weaving, braiding, knitting
or other methods. They can
also be made by cutting or
slitting wider fabrics into
narrow strips.
It is to be noted, that the
term narrow fabric is
incorrectly applied in some
sections of the trade to
fabrics which are narrower
than the normal width for a
specific fabric type.
NARROW GOODS defects Fabric defect. Fabric
that has not been
finished to the proper
width.
Fabric defect. Fabric that
has not been finished to the
proper width. Usually
caused by excessive
treatment in one or more
finishing operations. Though
narrow width can be traced
to many causes, the main
reason could be improper
stentering, where for some
reason or other the cloth is
not brought out at the
specified width.
NARROWING processes,
operations
In knitting, a movement
of loops inwards at the
selvage of a piece of
fabric.
In knitting, a movement of
loops inwards at the selvage
of a piece of fabric. The
result is a decrease in the
number of loops in the
succeeding course. The
term is used to describe the
action of carrying this out
576
Word Category Short description Description
and the actual site of it.
NATT fabrics A silk or rayon fabric A silk or rayon fabric made
with different coloured warp
and filling in a loose basket
weave.
NATURAL general Undyed or unbleached,
in the natural state.
Undyed or unbleached, in
the natural state. Wool or
cotton fibres often possess
a natural grey, fawn, yellow,
beige, brown or other
colour. Textiles are often
tinted or dyed to suggest a
natural colour.
NATURAL DRAW
RATIO
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Draw ratio See under Draw ratio
NATURAL DYES apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Dyes obtained from
some natural source,
e.g. indigo dye from a
plant and cochineal
dye from an insect.
Dyes obtained from some
natural source, e.g. indigo
dye from a plant and
cochineal dye from an
insect. Application of natural
dyes needs extensive pre-
treatments with mordants.
Most natural dyes have
been replaced by synthetic
dyes, because synthetic
dyes are usually purer,
cheaper and of better
fastness.
NATURAL FIBRES fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Textile fibres are
primarily categorized
into natural fibres and
man-made fibres.
Textile fibres are primarily
categorized into natural
fibres and man-made fibres.
Natural fibres are those
fibres, which occur naturally,
as distinct from the man-
made fibres. It is a class
name for various genera of
fibres (including filaments)
of vegetable, animal and
mineral ori-gin.
NATURAL FLAX fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Green flax. See Green flax.
NATURAL RUBBER
FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Term indicates a fibre
that is made from a
specific substance,
natural rubber
Term indicates a fibre that is
made from a specific
substance, natural rubber,
and it is therefore a
577
Word Category Short description Description
descriptive term based upon
the chemical constitution of
the fibre.
NE general See Non-elastic
elongation.
See Non-elastic elongation.
NEATENING processes,
operations
Finishing a cut edge to
prevent fraying.
Finishing a cut edge to
prevent fraying. Various
methods can be employed
like turning in the edge,
pinking, overedging, taping,
etc.
NEATNESS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A term used for raw
silk yarn
A term used for raw silk
yarn to indicate the degree
of freedom from loops, nibs
and hairiness.
NECK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
In the process of
drawing synthetic
filaments or films, the
relatively short length
over which a reduction
in cross-sectional area
occurs as a result of
stretching beyond a
critical value.
In the process of drawing
synthetic filaments or films,
the relatively short length
over which a reduction in
cross-sectional area occurs
as a result of stretching
beyond a critical value.
Commercial drawing
processes for man-made
NECKING processes,
operations
In synthetic fibres, the
abrupt reduction in
diameter that may
occur when an
undrawn filament is
stretched.
In synthetic fibres, the
abrupt reduction in diameter
that may occur when an
undrawn filament is
stretched.
NECKTIE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A decorative band of
fabric worn around the
neck and tied in a knot
or bow.
A decorative band of fabric
worn around the neck and
tied in a knot or bow.
NEEDLE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
GENERAL. A long wire
with an eye.
1. GENERAL. A long wire
with an eye.
2. IN SEWING MACHINE, a
thin shaft of drawn steel
wire used for sewing,
pointed at one or both ends,
with an eye or a hook for
thread or yarn.
3. IN KNITTING, an
instrument used for
intermeshing loops in
knitting. There is normally
one needle for each wale.
578
Word Category Short description Description
Bearded needle: Also called
Spring needle. A needle
formed of one piece of
spring steel having a long
terminal hook or beard that
can be flexed by an action
known as pressing. The
beard returns to its original
position when the pressure
is removed.
Carbine needle: A needle
similar in shape to a
bearded needle but with the
beard shielded by a
shoulder on the stem. The
needle may only be lapped
in one direction for the yarn
to pass under the beard. A
presser is not necessary, as
the needle is self-acting, the
shoulder passing the loop
onto the beard. The needle
has a limited use, mainly in
crochet-type machines.
Double-ended needle: A
needle having a hook and a
latch (or a beard) at each
end.
Latch needle: A needle
having a small terminal
hook closed by a pivoting
latch. The action is
automatic as the fabric loop
overturns the latch and
allows the loop to be
knocked over. The newly
formed loop is drawn by the
hook, and loop-forming and
knock-over proceed
simultaneously.
Two-piece needle: Also
called Compound needle. A
needle having two
separately controlled parts;
a hook member and a hook-
closing member.
NEEDLE BED apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A flat metal plate
constituting one of the
essential parts of a flat
A flat metal plate
constituting one of the
essential parts of a flat
579
Word Category Short description Description
knitting machine. knitting machine. The plate
(bed) is slotted at regular
intervals to hold the knitting
needles.
NEEDLE COOLER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In sewing machine, a
device for blowing a jet
of cool air onto the
needle during sewing.
In sewing machine, a device
for blowing a jet of cool air
onto the needle during
sewing.
NEEDLE DAMAGE defects Sewing defect in sewn
fabrics.
1. Sewing defect in sewn
fabrics. The partial or
complete yarn severance or
fibre fusing caused by a
needle passing through a
fabric during sewing.
2. Damage caused to the
material by the needle
during sewing
NEEDLE FEED apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In sewing machine, a
feed mechanism
In sewing machine, a feed
mechanism in which the
feeding of the material is
accomplished or assisted by
the needle which moves
forward by one stitch while it
is through the material.
NEEDLE FELT fabrics A textile composed of
natural, man-made, or
a combination of
natural and man-made
fibres physically
interlocked
A textile composed of
natural, man-made, or a
combination of natural and
man-made fibres physically
interlocked by the action of
a needle loom with or
without combination of other
textile fabrics and with or
without suitable combination
of mechanical work,
chemical action, moisture,
and heat, but without
weaving, knitting, stitching,
thermal bonding, or
adhesives.
NEEDLE GAUGE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The distance between
needles on a sewing
machine.
The distance between
needles on a sewing
machine.
NEEDLE LINE defects IN SEWING. A major
defect, caused by bent
needle forming
distorted stitches
1. IN SEWING. A major
defect, caused by bent
needle forming distorted
stitches (vertical line). Now,
most machines have
stopping device to stop the
580
Word Category Short description Description
machine, when this
happens.
2. IN KNITTING. A wale that
is different in configuration
from the adjacent normal
wales. It is usually caused
by a misaligned or broken
needle which forms
distorted stitches.
NEEDLE LOOM
SEVEDGE
accessories A narrow fabric
selvedge. A double
pick is inserted into
each successive shed
from one side of the
fabric.
A narrow fabric selvedge. A
double pick is inserted into
each successive shed from
one side of the fabric. The
selvedge at the side of the
loom from which the double
pick is inserted is secured
by the structure of the fabric
(the outside end is made to
change sheds), and at the
opposite selvedge
successive loops of weft are
locked by any one of the
following: (i) knitting
successive loops together,
(ii) knitting a catch-thread
through the loops, (iii)
knitting a catch-thread
through the loops together
with a locking thread, or (iv)
passing a catchthread
through each loop by means
of a small shuttle
NEEDLE LOOP fabrics See under Knitted
loop.
See under Knitted loop.
NEEDLE PLATE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Throat plate See Throat plate
NEEDLE POINT fabrics A hand-made lace
made by stitching
according to a
predetermined plan, a
sewing needle and
thread being used.
A hand-made lace made by
stitching according to a
predetermined plan, a
sewing needle and thread
being used. This was
originally a type of fine
drawn thread work, but it
has developed into a craft in
which satin stitch and
buttonhole stitch are worked
over a basic thread.
581
Word Category Short description Description
NEEDLE
POSITIONER
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In sewing machine, a
device which ensures
that the needle will
stop automatically
either in or out of the
fabric as required
In sewing machine, a device
which ensures that the
needle will stop
automatically either in or out
of the fabric as required
NEEDLE TRANSFER processes,
operations
In knitting, the transfer
of a double-headed
latch needle from a
slider in one bed or
cylinder to the slider in
the bed or cylinder
opposite.
In knitting, the transfer of a
double-headed latch needle
from a slider in one bed or
cylinder to the slider in the
bed or cylinder opposite.
NEEDLE-RUN LACE fabrics Lace in which the
objects are formed or
outlined by
embroidering onto a
net or lace base.
Lace in which the objects
are formed or outlined by
embroidering onto a net or
lace base.
NEEDLEBONDED
FABRIC
fabrics Fabric in which two or
more webs of fibres
are needled together.
Fabric in which two or more
webs of fibres are needled
together. A batt of fibre is
passed under, or between,
barbed needles which pass
up and down through the
batt locking the fibres
together.
NEEDLEBONDING processes,
operations
See Needling. See Needling.
NEEDLECORD fabrics Lightweight corduroy
fabric usually cotton,
with and very short pile
and very fine cords the
length of the fabric,
used for dresses.
Lightweight corduroy fabric
usually cotton, with and very
short pile and very fine
cords the length of the
fabric, used for dresses.
Made in, can be printed. It
may be plain piece dyed
colors or printed and is
hardwearing and usually
washable, with one way
pile. See also Corduroy.
NEEDLED FABRIC fabrics See Needle-bonded
fabric, Needlefelt
See Needle-bonded fabric,
Needlefelt
NEEDLEFELT
NEEDLE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Also called Felting
needle.
Also called Felting needle. A
barbed needle mounted in a
needle loom to cause fibre
reorientation and
entanglement during
needling.
582
Word Category Short description Description
NEEDLEFELTING processes,
operations
See Needling. See Needling.
NEEDLEIZING processes,
operations
A method of removing
properties of a cloth
and its finish
1. A method of removing
properties of a cloth and its
finish in order to make
sewing easier (by
overcoming resistance to
the needle).
The finish of a quaduga
cloth..
NEEDLELOOM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
FOR NARROW
FABRICS. A
shuttleless weaving
machine in which the
weft is drawn from a
stationary supply and
introduced into the
shed in the form of a
double-pick by a weft
inserter needle.
1. FOR NARROW
FABRICS. A shuttleless
weaving machine in which
the weft is drawn from a
stationary supply and
introduced into the shed in
the form of a double-pick by
a weft inserter needle. The
weft is retained at the
opposite selvedge by the
action of knitting, or by the
introduction of a locking
thread from a separate
supply.
2. FOR NONWOVENS. A
machine for producing
needlefelt. A needle beam
reciprocates vertically at
rates of upto2000
cycles/minute (33Hz).
Felting needles are
mounted in a board at a
density of 300-5000 per
metre width and pass
through a web or batt, which
is supported between bed
and stripper plates
NEEDLEPUNCHED processes,
operations
A method of
constructing a
nonwoven fabric.
Barbed needles are
forced (punched)
through a thick web or
fleece of fibres
A method of constructing a
nonwoven fabric. Barbed
needles are forced
(punched) through a thick
web or fleece of fibres.
When these barbed needles
are withdrawn, enough
fibres are displaced or
entangled to constitute a
nonwoven fabric, used for
blankets, outerwear, filters
583
Word Category Short description Description
and papermakers felts. See
Needle loom.
NEEDLEPUNCHED
BATTING
accessories A textile filling material
which is stabilized by
mechanically
entangling the fibres.
A textile filling material
which is stabilized by
mechanically entangling the
fibres.
NEEDLEPUNCHING processes,
operations
See Needling See Needling
NEEDLEWORK processes,
operations
A general term for work
performed with a
needle
A general term for work
performed with a needle,
such as embroidery,
knitting, some lace work,
sewing.
NEEDLING processes,
operations
Also called
Needlepunching,
Needlefelting,
Needlebonding.
Also called Needlepunching,
Needlefelting,
Needlebonding. The use of
barbed needles, mounted in
a needleloom, to entangle a
fibre web or batt by
mechanical reorientation of
some of the fibres within its
structure.
NEEEDLES PER
UNIT WIDTH
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
In tufted pile yarn floor
covering, the number
of binding sites per unit
of floor covering width
In tufted pile yarn floor
covering, the number of
binding sites per unit of floor
covering width; needles
being the means of inserting
the pile yarn into the
backing fabric.
NEGATIVE BEAT-UP processes,
operations
An impulsive beat-up
system using a light
reed and lay which are
not positively driven.
An impulsive beat-up
system using a light reed
and lay which are not
positively driven.
NEGATIVE
SHEDDING
processes,
operations
See Shedding. An operation in which the
movement of the healds or
harness is controlled in one
direction only, the return
movement being effected by
springs or weights. See
Shedding.
NEGATIVE TAKE-UP processes,
operations
A take-up system not
positively driven
A take-up system not
positively driven, often
powered from the beat-up
mechanism.
NEOPRENE
TREATED
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Application of
polychloroprene rubber
compound on glass
Application of
polychloroprene rubber
compound on glass fibre, to
584
Word Category Short description Description
fibre, improve the stability, knot
holding properties, and
abrasion resistance of the
cord
NEP defects One or more fibres
occurring in a tightly
tangled unorganized
mass; a small knot of
entangled fi-bres in the
yarn.
1. One or more fibres
occurring in a tightly tangled
unorganized mass; a small
knot of entangled fi-bres in
the yarn. In the case of
cotton it usually comprises
dead, tangled, immature
cotton hairs, and loose
waste particles which more
or less roll into little balls as
the stock is being
processed.
2. Fabric defect. Nep
specks appearing in fabric
surface is are very
detrimental to most cotton
fab-rics. (Compare Pills.)
NEPP YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Knickerbocker
yarn
See Knickerbocker yarn
NEPPY YARN defects Yarn defect. A yarn in
which the incidence of
neps occurs at a
relatively high level.
Yarn defect. A yarn in which
the incidence of neps
occurs at a relatively high
level.
NESTLING DOWN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A down not fully
developed with a
sheath and with soft
barbs emanating from
the sheath.
A down not fully developed
with a sheath and with soft
barbs emanating from the
sheath.
NESTLING
FEATHERS
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Immature feathers Immature feathers in which
the barbs are held together
and covered by a sheath.
NET fabrics An open-mesh fabric in
which a firm structure
is ensured by some
form of twist,
interlocking, or knitting
of the yarn.
An open-mesh fabric in
which a firm structure is
ensured by some form of
twist, interlocking, or knitting
of the yarn. It may be
produced by gauze
weaving, knitting, or
knotting, or on a lace
machine. Net may be made
from cotton, viscose, nylon,
polyester and other fibres,
according to its ultimate
585
Word Category Short description Description
use. Made in varying sizes
of mesh and used for
curtains, dance dresses,
veiling and trim-mings. See
also Plain net .
NET EMBROIDERY processes,
operations
Any type of needlework
(embroidery) done on a
net ground.
Any type of needlework
(embroidery) done on a net
ground.
NET SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
Also called Nett silk. Also called Nett silk.
1. YARN. Raw silk filaments
or strands that have been
processed into yarns by
twisting and folding or both,
as opposed to spun silk.
2. FABRIC. Fabrics
produced from net silk yarn.
NETT SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
See Net silk. See Net silk.
NETTING fabrics See Mesh. See Mesh.
NETTLE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A nautical term for a
small line made of two
strands of rope yarn
A nautical term for a small
line made of two strands of
rope yarn. Nettles are
halves of yarns in the end of
a rope twisted up for
printing. Also called Knittle
NETTLE CLOTH fabrics See China- grass See China- grass
NETTLE FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A fine, short stem fibre
obtained from two
species of the stinging
nettle Urtica dioica and
Urtica urena
A fine, short stem fibre
obtained from two species
of the stinging nettle Urtica
dioica and Urtica urena,
either by retting or
decorticating.
NETURAL ROPE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A rope constructed in
the arrangement of the
twists of its component
plies and final state
A rope constructed in the
arrangement of the twists of
its component plies and final
state so as to resist twisting
or untwisting.
NEUTRAL DYEING
ACID DYE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
An acid dye which has
substantivity for wool,
silk and polyamide,
when applied from a
neutral bath.
An acid dye which has
substantivity for wool, silk
and polyamide, when
applied from a neutral bath.
NEUTRALIZE processes,
operations
To make either an
alkaline or an acid
condition neutral.
To make either an alkaline
or an acid condition neutral.
586
Word Category Short description Description
NEW FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Virgin fibre See Virgin fibre
NEW WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Virgin wool. See Virgin wool.
NEW ZEALAND
FLAX
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Phormium tenax. See Phormium tenax.
NEW ZEALAND
TWILLS
fabrics A very coarse jute
fabric made in a two
up, two down twill
weave.
A very coarse jute fabric
made in a two up, two down
twill weave. Used for
bagging and other purposes
NEWAR garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A cotton tape made on
handlooms in India.
A cotton tape made on
handlooms in India. Used
for cots.
NIB defects A defect in raw silk
yarn
A defect in raw silk yarn
consisting of small
thickened places less than
1/9 inch long. Also spelled
knibs
NICKED SEVEDGE fabrics Small cut (nick) made
into the selvedge by
the folding machine
hooker.
Small cut (nick) made into
the selvedge by the folding
machine hooker.
NINON fabrics Sometimes called
Ttriple voile, is of plain
weave and sheer.
Sometimes called Ttriple
voile, is of plain weave and
sheer. Usually viscose or
acetate but may be
polyester. Should not be
confused with nylon,
because of the similarity of
its name. Used mainly for
sheer curtains. Fairly
slippery.
NINTY-DAY-
COTTON
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
An American cotton
that matures early.
An American cotton that
matures early. It has a
medium-sized boll and its
fibres are approximately
inch long.
NIP apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The line of contact in
the jaws of a tensile
testing machine.
1. The line or area of
contact or proximity
between two contiguous
surfaces that move so as to
compress and or control the
velocity of textile material
passed between them.
587
Word Category Short description Description
2. The pressure area
between two cylinders. In a
padding mangle, for
instance, the cloth passes
through the nip to have
excess liquid squeezed out.
3. The line of contact in the
jaws of a tensile testing
machine.
3. The line of contact in the
jaws of a tensile testing
machine.
4. See Station
NIP CRESES defects A defect occurring
regularly along a fabric
selvedge following a
nipping operation such
as padding or
calendering.
A defect occurring regularly
along a fabric selvedge
following a nipping
operation such as padding
or calendering. Caused by
loosely wound selvedge or
improper let-off tension
which allows the fabric to
gather or fold over at the
selvedge before it enters the
nip of the rolls.
NIP ROLLER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
One or a pair of rollers
intended to run with
their cylindrical
surfaces in contact or
separated only by yarn
or other textile
material.
One or a pair of rollers
intended to run with their
cylindrical surfaces in
contact or separated only by
yarn or other textile
material. The two rollers are
intended to have the same
surface speed and one
normally drives the other by
frictional contact.
NITO fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A coarse fibre similar
to coir.
A coarse fibre similar to coir.
NITROCELLULOSE
RAYON
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Rayon produced by the
cellulose nitrate
process.
Rayon produced by the
cellulose nitrate process.
NO IRON fabrics A fabric of either 100%
man-made fibres or a
blend of man-made
and natural fibres.
A fabric of either 100%
man-made fibres or a blend
of man-made and natural
fibres. Resin treatment plus
curing and heat pressing
may or may not be used.
Texture is smooth and
requires no ironing or
588
Word Category Short description Description
pressing after washing.
Durable press refers to a
fabric treated with resin,
followed by curing and hot
head pressing to set durable
creases and pleats so that
no further pressing is ever
needed.
NO IRON COTTON fabrics Cotton fabric finished
so as to require little or
no ironing before wear
and after washing.
Cotton fabric finished so as
to require little or no ironing
before wear and after
washing.
NO-THROW fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A very soft silk yarn
composed of two or
more untwisted singles
twisted together with
the minimum amount
of turns necessary
A very soft silk yarn
composed of two or more
untwisted singles twisted
together with the minimum
amount of turns necessary
to bind the strands to
prevent them from forming
loops in the yarn.
NOIL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Baurette. Also called Baurette. The
comparatively very short
fibres removed from longer
fibres of wool, silk, cotton,
viscose, etc. by combing, a
preparatory process before
spinning. These are
sometimes used in the
manufacture of carded
yarns. See also Silk noil and
Remanufactured Wool.
NOIL STRIPES fabrics Striped fabrics made of
cotton and silk or
worsted noil.
Striped fabrics made of
cotton and silk or worsted
noil. The stripes are formed
by noil ends dyed in bright
colours. Dyed black cotton
yarns are generally used in
the rest of the warp and in
the weft.
NOMINAL GAUGE
LENGTH
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In testing, the length of
a specimen under
specpre-tension
In testing, the length of a
specimen under specpre-
tension, measured from nip
to nip of the jaws of the
holding clamps in their
starting position
NON-AUTOMATIC
LOOM
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A loom in which empty
shuttles are replaced
by full ones by hand.
A loom in which empty
shuttles are replaced by full
ones by hand.
589
Word Category Short description Description
NON-CELLULOSIC
SYNTHETIC FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Man-made fibres that
are produced from
chemical polymers
other than cellulose.
Man-made fibres that are
produced from chemical
polymers other than
cellulose. Nylon, acrylic,
modacrylic, polyester, olefin
and spandex are in this
category.
NON-CHLORINE
BLEACH
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A bleach that does not
release the
hypochlorite ion in
solution
A bleach that does not
release the hypochlorite ion
in solution, e.g. sodium
perborate, sodium
percarbonate.
NON-CHLORINE
RETENTIVE FINISH
processes,
operations
See Chlorine resistant
finish.
See Chlorine resistant
finish.
NON-
COMBUSTIBLE
TEXTILE
fabrics A textile that will
neither ignite nor give
off vapors that will
ignite when subjected
to external sources of
ignition. (Compare
Combustible textile.)
A textile that will neither
ignite nor give off vapors
that will ignite when
subjected to external
sources of ignition.
(Compare Combustible
textile.)
NON-CONFORMITY general An occurrence of
failing to satisfy the
requirements of the
applicable specification
An occurrence of failing to
satisfy the requirements of
the applicable specification;
a condition that results in a
nonconforming item.
NON-CRUSHABLE
LINEN
fabrics A fabric with tightly
twisted weft, in plain
weave, finished with a
resin treatment to give
elasticity. Uses are
similar to those of
dress linen. Launders
easily, are wrinkle-
resistant and durable.
A fabric with tightly twisted
weft, in plain weave,
finished with a resin
treatment to give elasticity.
Uses are similar to those of
dress linen. Launders
easily, are wrinkle-resistant
and durable.
NON-ELASTIC
ELONGATION (NE)
general Elongation of rope
which is not reclaimed
after the strain is
removed and then
reapplied immedi-ately.
Elongation of rope which is
not reclaimed after the
strain is removed and then
reapplied immedi-ately.
NON-FIBROUS
MATTER
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Those oils, fats, waxes,
dressings, salts and
other soluble materials,
all or some of which
may be pre-sent in a
fibre mixture.
Those oils, fats, waxes,
dressings, salts and other
soluble materials, all or
some of which may be
present in a fibre mixture.
NON-FLAMMABLE fabrics Any combustible textile Any combustible textile that
590
Word Category Short description Description
TEXTILE that burns without a
flame.
burns without a flame. See
also Glow, Smouldering,
(Compare Flam-mable
textile, Combustible textile,
Non-combustible textile.)
NON-INFLAMMABLE
TEXTILE
fabrics Use preferred term
Non-flammable textile.
Use preferred term Non-
flammable textile.
NON-LINT
CONTENT
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
That portion of a mass
of cotton fibre which is
essentially foreign
matter.
That portion of a mass of
cotton fibre which is
essentially foreign matter.
NON-PERMANENT
FINISH
processes,
operations
A finish that is removed
when subjected to
such agents as friction,
laundering, light, heat.
A finish that is removed
when subjected to such
agents as friction,
laundering, light, heat.
NON-
RECOVERABLE
DEFORMATION
general See Permanent
deformation.
See Permanent
deformation.
NON-
RECOVERABLE
STRETCH
general See Permanent
deformation.
See Permanent
deformation.
NON-SEPARABLE
ZIPPER
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In zippers, a zipper
having two stringers
that are permanently
attached to each other
at either or both ends.
In zippers, a zipper having
two stringers that are
permanently attached to
each other at either or both
ends. (Compare Separable
zipper.)
NON-SLIP FINISH processes,
operations
A finish applied to a
yarn to make it
resistant to slipping
and sliding when in
contact with another
yarn.
A finish applied to a yarn to
make it resistant to slipping
and sliding when in contact
with another yarn.
NON-TEXTILE accessories General merchandise,
for use in clothing or
home furnishings, that
is not manufactured
from fibre.
General merchandise, for
use in clothing or home
furnishings, that is not
manufactured from fibre.
NON-
THERMOPLASTIC
general Not capable of being
softened by heat.
Not capable of being
softened by heat.
NON-TORQUE
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A stretch yarn that has
no tendency to rotate
when permitted to
hang freely.
A stretch yarn that has no
tendency to rotate when
permitted to hang freely.
See also Torque yarn.
NONSHRINK processes,
operations
See Shrinkage and
Shrunk finish.
See Shrinkage and Shrunk
finish.
591
Word Category Short description Description
NONSHRINKABLE
WOOL
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Wool treated
chemically to resist
shrinkage
Wool treated chemically to
resist shrinkage, especially
felting shrinkage, by partial
destruction or masking of
the scales of the fibre.
Various methods use
chlorine or resin. See
Chlorination and
Chlorinated wool.
NONWATERFOWL
FEATHERS
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Feathers derived from
chickens, turkeys, or
other landfowl.
Feathers derived from
chickens, turkeys, or other
landfowl. Same as Landfowl
feathers.
NONWOVEN
BLANKET
fabrics See under Blanket. See under Blanket.
NONWOVEN
FABRICS
fabrics A textile structure
produced by bonding
or interlocking of fibres,
or both, accomplished
by mechanical,
chemical, thermal, or
solvent means and
combinations thereof.
A textile structure produced
by bonding or interlocking of
fibres, or both,
accomplished by
mechanical, chemical,
thermal, or solvent means
and combinations thereof.
Any manufactured sheet or
web, of random fibre, held
together by physical or
chemical means or both. A
layer of threads ordered or
random laid, made of staple
fibres made by either the
wet or dry process. The
hardening is then effected
either mechanically or by
means of a swelling or
binding agent. Excluded
from this definition are
woven, knitted, stitch-
bonded, felt and paper
fabrics.
The fibres most commonly
used for nonwovens are
nylon, polyester and
viscose. There are several
different methods used for
the formation of the web
and a variety of ways in
which the fibres are
compacted and held
together to become a
592
Word Category Short description Description
nonwoven fabric which,
dependent on the fibres and
pro-cesses used, can
sometimes be washed for a
limited number of times and
sometimes indefinitely be-
fore showing signs of
breakdown. If made in
100% synthetic fibres which
have been heat-bonded by
sophisticated methods they
can compete on equal terms
with many woven and
knitted fabrics. In particular
nonwovens made by lacing
arranging thousands of fine
filaments immediately after
ex-trusion and allowing
them to set in this
intermingled form, gives a
strong fabric which can be
used for childrens anoraks,
protective clothing, even
book covers. However, most
of the nonwovens have low
abrasion resistance
compared with other
textiles.
NORMAL fabrics A trade term for knit
goods, made of natural
coloured cotton and
wool mixed.
A trade term for knit goods,
made of natural coloured
cotton and wool mixed.
NORMAL FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Cotton
maturity
See under Cotton maturity
NORMAL MIXTURE fabrics A knit fabric made of a
mixture of cotton and
wool in black and white
combination.
A knit fabric made of a
mixture of cotton and wool
in black and white
combination.
NOTATION processes,
operations
A shorthand system
used to express on a
graph paper the stitch
structure employed in
the fabric.
A shorthand system used to
express on a graph paper
the stitch structure
employed in the fabric.
NOTCHES garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Small cuts made in the
edges of garment parts
which are used as
guides during garment
Small cuts made in the
edges of garment parts
which are used as guides
during garment assembly.
593
Word Category Short description Description
assembly. See Balance marks.
NOTTINGHAM LACE fabrics Often used to describe
a flat, coarse lace used
for curtains,
bedspreads and
tablecloths.
Often used to describe a
flat, coarse lace used for
curtains, bedspreads and
tablecloths. But Nottingham
being the home of the
machine lace industry, the
word is also used to
describe any lace made on
a Nottingham-type machine.
NOU general A French term for
knotted.
A French term for knotted.
NOVEL TEXTILE
DESIGN
general Motif or pattern never
before represented
pictorially as a textile
design in any part of
the world
Motif or pattern never before
represented pictorially as a
textile design in any part of
the world; never has it been
applied to or has it been a
part of any textile.
NOVELTY TWEED fabrics Description indicates
that the cloth is tweed-
like, but it is not one of
the conventional
tweeds that are easy to
recognize.
Description indicates that
the cloth is tweed-like, but it
is not one of the
conventional tweeds that
are easy to recognize.
Usually a cloth with some
decoration or distinguishing
feature.
NOVELTY WEAVE fabrics Any weave which
varies or combines the
basic weaves, plain,
satin and twill.
Any weave which varies or
combines the basic weaves,
plain, satin and twill.
NOVELTY YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Fancy yarn. See Fancy yarn.
NOVOLOID FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured fibre
containing at least 85
% by weight of a cross
-linked novolac.
A manufactured fibre
containing at least 85 % by
weight of a cross -linked
novolac. A novolac is a
phenol-formaldehyde
condensate of low
molecular weight made
using an excess of phenol.
NOZZLE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The spinneret or jet
used in producing
man-made fibres.
The spinneret or jet used in
producing man-made fibres.
NUAGE fabrics A French word
meaning cloud, mist,
shadow, darkness, etc.
A French word meaning
cloud, mist, shadow,
darkness, etc. applied to
594
Word Category Short description Description
fabrics showing these
effects in colour decoration.
NUB fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A small lump, knot or
speck in yarn or fabric.
A small lump, knot or speck
in yarn or fabric. Sometimes
a snarl or tangled mass of
fibres. Employed in
knickerbocker and other
types of novelty yarn. Also
called Slub.
NUB YARNS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Irregular yarns
containing enlarged
segments (nubs) made
by twisting one end of
yarn several times
around another within
a shorter space.
Irregular yarns containing
enlarged segments (nubs)
made by twisting one end of
yarn several times around
another within a shorter
space. Sometimes a binder
yarn is used to hold the nub
in place.
NUMBER fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Yarn number,
Yarn numbering
system.
See Yarn number, Yarn
numbering system.
NUMBER OF
TURNS
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Stated in turns per unit
length.
Stated in turns per unit
length.
NUNS VEILING fabrics Fine, lightweight plain-
weave, plain colored,
worsted or silk fabric,
which is very soft and
thin.
Fine, lightweight plain-
weave, plain colored,
worsted or silk fabric, which
is very soft and thin. Now
used for dresses, but was at
one time used only for
religious gowns. Originally
dyed only black, brown or
gray, but as a dress fabric it
is produced in fashion
colours. Used for dresses,
blouses, nightwear. A warm,
soft, attractive fabric that
drapes and gathers well.
NURSES CLOTH fabrics A coloured, woven,
plain, matt or twill
fabric, mainly in stripes
of blue and white,
having 27x20 threads
per cm with 25 tex
cotton warp and weft.
A coloured, woven, plain,
matt or twill fabric, mainly in
stripes of blue and white,
having 27x20 threads per
cm with 25 tex cotton warp
and weft. It is used for
ladies overalls and nurses
uniforms.
NURSERY CLOTH fabrics A quilted bleached
cotton muslin.
A quilted bleached cotton
muslin. Washable. Used in
595
Word Category Short description Description
nursery
NUTRIA FUR fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Comes from a small
South American animal
and is similar to Beaver
Comes from a small South
American animal and is
similar to Beaver
NYLON CIR fabrics A waxing treatment
applied to lightweight
plain-weave nylon
produces a very
attractive, shiny fabric
for thin raincoats,
anoraks, protective
clothing for cyclists,
etc.
A waxing treatment applied
to lightweight plain-weave
nylon produces a very
attractive, shiny fabric for
thin raincoats, anoraks,
protective clothing for
cyclists, etc. Made in a
limited range of colours, but
these include bright ones
like red and royal blue which
are popular for childrens
rainwear and aprons. It is
showerproof rather than
waterproof. To make it
warmer and heavier, it may
be lined with quilting, or
quilted on to wadding. See
also Cir.
NYLON FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured fibre in
which the fibre-forming
substance is a long
chain synthetic
polyamide in which
less than 85 % of the
amide linkages are
attached directly to two
aromatic rings.
A manufactured fibre in
which the fibre-forming
substance is a long chain
synthetic polyamide in
which less than 85 % of the
amide linkages are attached
directly to two aromatic
rings.
The accepted generic name
for the polyamide fibre,
which is produced from
mineral sources. Al-though
resistant to most chemicals,
nylon is damaged by strong
oxidizing bleaches and
concentrated acids; easy to
dye and is colorfast.; melts
at low temperature but does
not catch light. Nylon fibre is
non-absorbent, hardwearing
and blends well with most
other fibres.
Two types of fibre - nylon
6.6 and nylon 6 - dominate
the polyamide fibre field.
These are general purpose
596
Word Category Short description Description
fibres that represent the
bulk of polyamide fibre
production. The
commercially important
types of polyamide fibre are:
Nylon6.6, Nylon 6, Nylon
11, Nylon 6.10, and Nylon3,
Nylon 4, Nylon 5, Nylon 7,
Nylon 8, Nyon 9, Nylon 12.
A number of new types of
polyamide fibre are being
con-tinuously developed
and some show prospects
of achieving real importance
in due course.
Nylon is the accepted better
material for ladies
stockings, because it has a
lower initial resistance to
stretch than polyester. It is
more comfortable and
responsive to wear.
It is not regarded as being
dangerously flammable;
melts when ignited and the
flame tends to go out when
the molten portion drops
away.
Ordinary nylon filaments are
circular in cross-section
which does not help handle.
Different shapes of filament
have been produced notably
those with a rounded or
triangular cross-section.
These fi-bres have been
found to have a firmer and
more pleasant handle when
used in fabrics.
The so-called glitter nylon is
a variation of this technique
whereby a trilobal shape of
filament pro-duces a higher
degree of internal reflections
in the fibres causing them to
sparkle.
Special high-tenacity types
of nylon have been
developed for industrial
597
Word Category Short description Description
uses such as tyre cords,
ropes, transmission belts
and many other uses where
high strength and toughness
are required.
A development in nylon has
been the bi-component fibre
in which each fibre is made
from two forms of the nylon
polymer so that each fibre is
composed of approximately
half conventional mate-rial
and the other half modified
polymer joined lengthwise
as in diagram shown above.
In wet treat-ments of fabric
during finishing the modified
polymer portion shrinks
more than the conventional
portion and the resulting
stresses cause fibres to
crimp and produce bulk and
softer structure. Can-trece
is a fibre of this type.
NYLON J ERSEY fabrics Similar to Tricot but
heavier.
Similar to Tricot but heavier.
A very useful lining and
mounting fabric. Although in
many other cases, polyester
fibre has superseded nylon,
this is not the case with
nylon jersey. It is
hardwearing and has a
limited amount of give
which will prevent the outer
fabric from losing its shape.
Nylon jersey may be anti-
static.
NYLON-SPANDEX
BICOMPONENT
FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A conjugate spun
filament composed of
nylon and spandex
segments joined along
its entire length.
A conjugate spun filament
composed of nylon and
spandex segments joined
along its entire length. See
Conjugate-spun fibre
NYLONIZING processes,
operations
A process by which a
thin coating of nylon
polymer is deposited
on a fabrics surface.
A process by which a thin
coating of nylon polymer is
deposited on a fabrics
surface. The coating
hardens. Nylonizing
technique include either
598
Word Category Short description Description
immersing the fabric in
nylon solution or vapour-
depositing nylon on it.
NYTRIL FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured fibre
containing at least 85
% of long chain
polymer of vinylidene
dinitrile
A manufactured fibre
containing at least 85 % of
long chain polymer of
vinylidene dinitrile, where
the vinylidene dinitrile
content is not less than
every other unit in the
polymer chain.

O

Word Category Short description Description
O.D. fabrics See Olive drab. See Olive drab.
OAKLEAF BRAID fabrics A jacquard woven
narrow fabric having a
conventional oakleaf and
acron design contained
within the border
A jacquard woven narrow
fabric having a conventional
oakleaf and acron design
contained within the border,
customarily used as a
uniform cap-band.
OATMEAL fabrics An old fashioned term
which used to describe
any fabric, usually wool
An old fashioned term which
used to describe any fabric,
usually wool, that has a
coloured, pebbled effect
resembling oatmeal.
OATMEAL
CRPE
fabrics A weave that creates a
rough irregular surface
effect by a random
arrangement of binding
points.
A weave that creates a rough
irregular surface effect by a
random arrangement of
binding points. It can be
produced on a plain base or
a satin base, or by reversing
small motifs, or
superimposing weaves. The
effect is intended to simulate
the surface appearance of a
crpe produced in plain
weave using highly twisted
S and Z twist yarns.
OATS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
An early maturing variety
of American cotton with
staple approximately
1.91 to 2.54 cm long.
An early maturing variety of
American cotton with staple
approximately 1.91 to 2.54
cm long.
OBA apparatus, See Optical brightening See Optical brightening
599
Word Category Short description Description
equipage,
tools
agent. agent.
OBJ ECTS fabrics Lace having ornamental
devices (such as
flowers) appearing
regularly in various parts
of a piece of lace.
Lace having ornamental
devices (such as flowers)
appearing regularly in various
parts of a piece of lace.
OCELOT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A very hardwearing,
fairly coarse textured
thin fur.
A very hardwearing, fairly
coarse textured thin fur. Like
Leopard, it has spots, but
they are more oval in shape.
OE YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
An abbreviation for
open-end spun yarn.
An abbreviation for open-end
spun yarn. This term is
mainly restricted to rotor-
spun yarns. See Rotor
spinning.
OFF-CLIP defects See Scalloped selvage See Scalloped selvage
OFF-GRAIN defects A general term used to
describe fabrics in which
the warp and weft,
although straight, are not
at right angles to each
other.
A general term used to
describe fabrics in which the
warp and weft, although
straight, are not at right
angles to each other. This
term is applied to skewed or
drawn pieces when lack of
information as to the cause,
prevents the use of the more
precise term
OFF-PRESSING processes,
operations
The final pressing
operations on a garment
after assembly.
The final pressing operations
on a garment after assembly.
Also called Pressing off.
OFF-REGISTER defects Also called Out-of-fit,
Out-of register. Printing
defect.
Also called Out-of-fit, Out-of
register. Printing defect. A
jumbled motif or mottled
colour effect which comes
from improper alignment of
the printing machine rollers.
The effect will show blank
areas which should have
been printed, but because of
poor settings leave the areas
white or some-what
discoloured.
OFF-SHADE defects An expression referring
to the fact that the colour
of the dyed textile
material does not match
the standard colour or
An expression referring to the
fact that the colour of the
dyed textile material does not
match the standard colour or
referred sample.
600
Word Category Short description Description
referred sample.
OFF-SQUARE fabrics A fabric with a nominal
square count (same
number of picks as ends
per inch) but not actually
square.
1. A fabric with a nominal
square count (same number
of picks as ends per inch) but
not actually square.
2. The difference between
the percentage of warp crimp
and the percentage of the
weft crimp.
OFFSET TWILL
WEAVE
fabrics Same as Braided twill
weave.
Same as Braided twill weave.
OI general See Oxygen index. See Oxygen index.
OIL
REPELLENCY
fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
The characteristic of a
fibre, yarn or fabric
whereby it resists
wetting by oily liquids.
The characteristic of a fibre,
yarn or fabric whereby it
resists wetting by oily liquids.
OIL SPOT defects See Blotch. See Blotch.
OIL STAINS defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Stains, spots,
and marks that are
detrimental to cloth. They are
acquired in several ways.
Many oil spots are the result
of poor material handling.
OIL-COMBING processes,
operations
The adding of a small
quantity of oil emulsion
in the process of
combing worsted tops.
The adding of a small
quantity of oil emulsion in the
process of combing worsted
tops.
OILCLOTH fabrics One of the early
waterproof fabrics.
One of the early waterproof
fabrics. Usually cotton,
treated with linseed oil
varnish to give it a shiny
effect. Mainly used as table
and shelf covering, and for
bags and raincoats. The
surface wear off easily and it
is inclined to tear. Has been
almost completely
superseded by the modern
laminates and other coated
fabrics
OILED SILK fabrics A very old waterproof
fabric which was used
for rainwear and as
waterproof covers for
dressing wounds.
A very old waterproof fabric
which was used for rainwear
and as waterproof covers for
dressing wounds. Produced
in a manner similar to that
used for Oil cloth.
OILED VISCOSE fabrics Viscose fabrics made Viscose fabrics made
601
Word Category Short description Description
impervious to water. impervious to water.
OILED WOOL fabrics Unscoured or undyed
knitting wool or wool
dyed before spinning
and containing added oil
not subsequently
removed.
Unscoured or undyed knitting
wool or wool dyed before
spinning and containing
added oil not subsequently
removed.
OILSKIN fabrics Fabric of practically any
natural or synthetic fibre
that has been treated
with linseed oil varnish.
Fabric of practically any
natural or synthetic fibre that
has been treated with linseed
oil varnish. Used for
protective clothing. See also
OiIcloth and Oiled silk.
OLEFIN FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Polyolefin. See Polyolefin.
OLEOPHILIC general Tendency to absorb and
retain only oily materials.
Tendency to absorb and
retain only oily materials.
OLEOPHOBIC general Tendency to repel only
oily materials.
Tendency to repel only oily
materials.
OLIGOMER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A simple polymer
containing a small
number of repeating
units.
A simple polymer containing
a small number of repeating
units. The oligomer most
frequently encountered in the
textile industry is the cyclic
trimer of the polymer used for
polyester fibre. This material
can form deposits during the
processing and dyeing of
yarns and fabrics.
OLIVE DRAB fabrics Woollen cloth dyed in a
greenish yellow colour
with low saturation and
brilliance.
Woollen cloth dyed in a
greenish yellow colour with
low saturation and brilliance.
Used mainly for U.S. Army
uniforms.
OMBR fabrics Name derived from the
French word for
shaded.
Name derived from the
French word for shaded.
Fabric which has a shaded or
graduated colour effect,
which may be obtained either
by weaving or dyeing.
Usually it ranges from light to
dark shades of one colour,
giving a triped effect or
sometimes an attractive all-
over shading.
OMBR PRINT fabrics Prints produced by a Prints produced by a method
602
Word Category Short description Description
method called
rainbowing.
called rainbowing. It is a
variant of block printing in
which sieve used to supply
the colour paste is prepared
by placing pools of colour
across it. These pools are
then spread lengthwise with
a roller to produce a rainbow
effect. Blocks are then used
to apply this colour to fabric.
Also called Irised prints.
ON THE DOUBLE processes,
operations
See Double, on the See Double, on the
ON-CALL
COTTON
general Raw-cotton purchased
under a procedure
whereby the price
relative to the futures
price is agreed between
buyer and seller, but the
actual futures price is left
to be fixed within a
stipulated period
Raw-cotton purchased under
a procedure whereby the
price relative to the futures
price is agreed between
buyer and seller, but the
actual futures price is left to
be fixed within a stipulated
period. The buyer has the
right to call, i.e. demand
fixation of the futures price, at
any time within the stipulated
time.
OND fabrics A French word meaning
waved, used in relation
to textile fabrics to
describe a wave effect
produced by calendering
or weaving
A French word meaning
waved, used in relation to
textile fabrics to describe a
wave effect produced by
calendering or weaving. See
Ondul
ONDINE fabrics A thick, cord Bengaline
in which every cord is
crinkled.
A thick, cord Bengaline in
which every cord is crinkled.
ONDUL fabrics Similar in appearance to
Ombr and also of
French derivation, but
the cloth is woven in
wavy stripes
Similar in appearance to
Ombr and also of French
derivation, but the cloth is
woven in wavy stripes,
achieved by groups of warp
threads being forced from
side to side. Used for
curtains, furnishing fabrics of
all fibres
ONE-BY-ONE
PURL FABRIC
fabrics See under Purl fabric. See under Purl fabric.
ONE-FACE
FABRIC
fabrics A cloth of which only one
side is suitable for the
A cloth of which only one
side is suitable for the face or
603
Word Category Short description Description
face or right side. right side. Knots, long floats
and extra yarn stitching on
the back make it unsuitable
for use as the face of the
cloth
ONE-SIDED
TERRY
fabrics A terry cloth woven with
loop pile on one side
only.
A terry cloth woven with loop
pile on one side only.
ONE-WAY
FABRIC
fabrics Fabrics wherein a
fibrous surface, be it nap
or pile, is directional,
there is a distinct
difference in colour
effect according to the
direction in which light
impinges on the surface
fibres.
Fabrics wherein a fibrous
surface, be it nap or pile, is
directional, there is a distinct
difference in colour effect
according to the direction in
which light impinges on the
surface fibres. It is usually
impossible in practice to
produce a large quantity of
directional nap or pile fabric
with all the fibres at exactly
the same angle of inclination.
The finishing processes of
pile fabrics, cropping and
brushing impart a direction to
the pile which cannot be kept
uniform over a large area.
In clothing the areas of fabric
are not large enough to
produce patchy areas but the
movement of a garment
causes colour changes to be
constantly visible. It is
important therefore that the
directions of fibres in all
garment parts are the same.
Dressmakers usually prefer
the pile of a fabric to run up-
wards as this gives a richer
colour effect, but obviously
directional nap fabrics are
made with the nap running
downwards. The colour
changes due to differing light
reflection referred to above
make colour matching of pile
fabrics with each other and
with conventional fabrics very
difficult and at times it
appears that a perfect match
is impossible and that a
604
Word Category Short description Description
compromise is all that can be
achieved. However, great
care is taken in matching nap
or pile fabrics with plain
textured materials, and with
each other.
ONION CLOTH fabrics A strong bagging
material with a large
mesh, actually a netting,
often a leno.
A strong bagging material
with a large mesh, actually a
netting, often a leno. Used
mainly for bags to hold
onions and the same time
display them for easy, fast
selling.
ONIUM DYE Small range of dyes,
mostly used on cotton.
Small range of dyes, mostly
used on cotton. A cationic
dye that is solubilized by
available ammonium,
sulphonium, phosphonium or
oxonium substituent which
splits off during fixation to
leave an insoluble colorant in
the fibre. This temporarily
solubilized dye (water-
soluble), being cationic, must
not be mixed with anionic
dyes, otherwise they will
precipitate each other. In the
presence of heat and alkali
the solubilizing groups split
up to give a very fast dye on
the fibre. Onium dyes are:
suitable for cotton and linen
fibres.
See also Alcian and
Phthalogen under Ingrain
dye.
OOZE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Loose fibres, which
project from the surface
of yarn.
Loose fibres, which project
from the surface of yarn.
OP ART fabrics See Optical art. See Optical art.
OPEN BOIL processes,
operations
Scouring of cellulosic
textiles with alkaline
liquors in open vessels
at or near the boiling
points.
Scouring of cellulosic textiles
with alkaline liquors in open
vessels at or near the boiling
points.
OPEN DENT defects Fabric defect Fabric defect, characterised
by an open streak of variable
length parallel with the warp.
605
Word Category Short description Description
OPEN LAP processes,
operations
In warp knitting, a
lapping movement in
which the underlap is
non-existent or is made
in the same direction as
the preceding overlap.
In warp knitting, a lapping
movement in which the
underlap is non-existent or is
made in the same direction
as the preceding overlap.
This results in a thread
entering and leaving a loop at
opposite sides without
crossing over itself
OPEN LOOP fabrics In warp knitting a loop
open at the base, i.e. a
lapping movement in
which the underlap is
non-existent or is made
in the same direction as
the preceding overlap.
In warp knitting a loop open
at the base, i.e. a lapping
movement in which the
underlap is non-existent or is
made in the same direction
as the preceding overlap.
This results in a thread
entering and leaving a loop at
opposite sides without
crossing over itself.
OPEN PLACE defects See Crack mark. See Crack mark.
OPEN REED defects Fabric defect. Resulting
from a bent reed wire
causing the warp ends to
be held apart exposing
the weft yarn
Fabric defect. Resulting from
a bent reed wire causing the
warp ends to be held apart
exposing the weft yarn. Will
be conspicuous on fabrics
that use different colour
yarns on warp and shuttle.
OPEN SHEDDING fabrics A method of forming a
shed I
A method of forming a shed
in which, between the
insertion of one weft pick and
the next, the only warp
threads moved are those that
are required to change
position from the upper to the
lower line of the shed, or vice
versa
OPEN SOAPER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A machine consisting of
a number of
compartments, each
having rollers and/or
nips, which is used for
continuous wet
treatment of textiles in
open width.
A machine consisting of a
number of compartments,
each having rollers and/or
nips, which is used for
continuous wet treatment of
textiles in open width. By
suitable arrangement of
liquids in the series of
compartments, a sequence
of operations, e.g. fixing,
rinsing, soaping and rinsing,
can be carried out.
606
Word Category Short description Description
OPEN WIDTH
WASHER
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A machine for washing
fabrics in open width
continuously or in batch
form.
A machine for washing
fabrics in open width
continuously or in batch form.
OPEN-END
SPINNING
processes,
operations
Also called Break
spinning. The formation
of yarn by separating the
single fibres, which are
then rotated and joined
to the open-end of the
twisted yarn, which also
rotates. Since there is a
break in the system any
twist inserted is true
twist.
Also called Break spinning.
The formation of yarn by
separating the single fibres,
which are then rotated and
joined to the open-end of
the twisted yarn, which also
rotates. Since there is a
break in the system any
twist inserted is true twist.
The ring spinning method
spins most of the staple fibre
yarns produced today.
However, this has limited
speeds of production and has
a limited adaptability to
automation. It is for this
reason that the producers
have looked for completely
new methods of spinning. For
some years now there has
been growing interest in
open-end spinning, where,
since the twist is not inserted
in the yarn by the rotation of
the yarn package, the
operation can run at higher
speeds and produce
packages of any desired size
and shape.
When spinning on this
system an open end is
created in the flow of fibres.
Since the yarn being pro-
duced has one end free any
twist inserted is true rather
than false. The essential
operation depends on the
formation of yarn by
separating the single fibres,
that are then rotated and
joined to the open end of the
twisted yarn, which also
rotates. This system
eliminates the slowest
process in cotton spinning
607
Word Category Short description Description
and production is much
more; even five or more
times rapid than in orthodox
ring spin-ning.
Open-end spinning machines
make yarns which compare
well with conventionally spun
combed cotton yarns. These
yarns have some improved
properties and therefore less
time is lost in rewind-ing,
correcting faults and knotting
broken ends together. The
packages produced are
much bigger and since sliver
can be converted directly to a
large package of yarn, many
intermediate stages, such as
roving, are cut out, and the
labour costs involved in the
complete operation are
greatly reduced.
There are several different
methods of open-end
spinning available. The way
in which the fibres are
assembled onto the forming
yarn varies and so does the
means by which the twist is
inserted. How-ever, here the
basic principles of a few
methods are only covered,
although it must be
appreciated that other
promising ways are being
developed, all based on the
concept of having a break in
the system. In the rotor
method the roving stage is
omitted and draw-frame
sliver is presented to a small
rotating tooth-covered roller.
This reduces the sliver to a
stream of almost individual
fibres, which are injected into
a small chamber rotating at
high speed. The fibres are
fed into the chamber and
guided to its periphery. A
608
Word Category Short description Description
ribbon of fibres is formed at
the periphery and held by
centrifugal force. The fibres
are picked off the chamber
surface by a length of yarn,
scanning the periphery and
as this ribbon is extracted,
and as it twists around itself
at the same time, twist is
inserted by the rota-tion of
the drum the end is
continually wound off, so
forming a continuous yarn.
In other methods, perforated
drums or electrostatic forces
are used in place of the rotor
to assemble the fibres. In the
air-vortex method the fibres
are sucked into a stationary
tube and travel in a helical
path. They then join the yarn
end, which rotates in the tube
and inserts the twist. The
point of con-tact between the
fibre path and the yarn path
is continuously moving up
and down the tube and gives
a mixing or doubling effect.
The yarn is continuously
pulled out of the tube.
OPEN-FACE
FABRIC
fabrics A face or shell fabric
constructed with
specifically designed
open areas
A face or shell fabric
constructed with specifically
designed open areas to show
the substrate when joined to
another material
OPEN-WIDTH
PROCESSING
processes,
operations
The treatment of fabric
at its full width in the
unfolded state in
contrast to rope-form
processing.
The treatment of fabric at its
full width in the unfolded
state in contrast to rope-form
processing. The fabric may
be carried on rollers through
the processing media or be
held on a roller, as in beam
dyeing.
OPENING processes,
operations
The process of
separating fibres from
each other in the
preparatory stages of
spinning.
The process of separating
fibres from each other in the
preparatory stages of
spinning.
609
Word Category Short description Description
OPENNESS garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The provision for leg
stance in the angle of
the leg seams.
The provision for leg stance
in the angle of the leg seams.
OPTICAL ART fabrics Also called Op art. Also called Op art. Fabrics on
which simple designs are
drawn: squares, circles,
spirals, cubes, moir patterns
that offer multiple
interpretations and a sense
of movement. Layers of
translucent fabric can ap-
proximate this phenomenon.
OPTICAL
BRIGHTENING
AGENT
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Fluorescent
whitening agent.
See Fluorescent whitening
agent.
OPTICAL DYE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Fluorescent dye See Fluorescent dye
OPTIMUM TWIST fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Spun yarns that have the
amount of twist that
gives the maximum
tensile strength
Spun yarns that have the
amount of twist that gives the
maximum tensile strength or
the maximum bulk at strength
levels suitable for weaving or
knitting.
ORDINARY
HONEYCOMB
fabrics See under Honeycomb. See under Honeycomb.
ORDINARY LAY accessories A laid rope (see Lay - 2)
in which the direction of
twist in the roping yarn
and the finished rope are
the same
A laid rope (see Lay - 2) in
which the direction of twist in
the roping yarn and the
finished rope are the same
and in which the direction of
lay of the strand is in the
opposite direction.
ORDINARY
TWILL
fabrics See Common twill See Common twill
ORDINARY
TWIST
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Same as Z twist. Same as Z twist. See also
Direction of twist
ORGANDIE fabrics The sheerest cotton
fabric made of fine 100
% cotton yarn.
The sheerest cotton fabric
made of fine 100 % cotton
yarn. Open translucent fabric
with a stiff han-dle, woven in
plain weave and given a
special acid finishing
treatment which creates the
crisp translucent effect by
partially gelatinising the
610
Word Category Short description Description
surface of the fabric. The
finish is permanent. Fabric
creases very easily and is
mainly used for decoration
and as an interfacing fabric in
lightweight garments. It is
also used for dresses,
blouses and sometimes for
hats. Very springy and
inclined to bubble and lose its
shape under pressure.
The organdie-effect can be
obtained more effectively (but
not cheaply) by the use of
monofilament synthetic
yarns.
ORGANZA fabrics Similar in appearance to
Organdie. Lightweight,
plain weave, sheer fabric
made originally from fine
silk yarns but now also
made in man-made
synthetic fibre yarns.
Similar in appearance to
Organdie. Lightweight, plain
weave, sheer fabric made
originally from fine silk yarns
but now also made in man-
made synthetic fibre yarns. It
has a crisp handle and
drapes well. Made in plain
colours and in printed styles,
for dress use. Used for
evening wear and trimming
and may also be used as
interfacing in fine fabrics.
ORGANZINE
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Two or more raw silk
yarns twisted in the
opposite direction from
the single yarn of which
it is made.
Two or more raw silk yarns
twisted in the opposite
direction from the single yarn
of which it is made. Turns per
inch in the singles and ply
usually within the limits of 10
to 20 turns; generally used as
warp.
ORIENTAL
CARPETS
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A group of handmade
carpets produced in the
Orient, especially in
Asia, notably, Persia
(Iran), Asiatic Turkey,
Bokhara, Afghanistan
and China.
A group of handmade
carpets produced in the
Orient, especially in Asia,
notably, Persia (Iran), Asiatic
Turkey, Bokhara,
Afghanistan and China. They
are woven similar to tapestry
or in a pile weave. The
number of knots per square
inch determines their
fineness. Generally made of
611
Word Category Short description Description
wool, some of the finest
Persians have silk pile.
ORIENTATION processes,
operations
A combing or attenuating
action on fibre
assemblies
A combing or attenuating
action on fibre assemblies
causing the fibres to lie
substantially parallel to the
axis of the web or strand.
ORIFICE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A tiny, single hole in a
spinneret.
A tiny, single hole in a
spinneret. It is through these
fine holes that the spinning
solution is formed.
ORIGINAL TWIST fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The twist in a single or
plied yarn component of
a plied or cabled yarn
The twist in a single or plied
yarn component of a plied or
cabled yarn as the
component was before
incorporation into the more
complex structure.
ORLON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Trade name for one of
the first acrylic fibres.
Trade name for one of the
first acrylic fibres. Melts at
high heat, but does not catch
light. Noted for soft hand,
absorbency, and warmth
without weight, chemical and
sunlight resistance. It blends
very well with wool and other
fibres, and is used
extensively in knitwear and
dress fabrics.
ORTHOPAEDIC
AND SURGICAL
FELT
fabrics A white soft low density,
highly resilient felt.
A white soft low density,
highly resilient felt.
OSNABURG fabrics A traditional coarse
cotton fabric, woven with
uneven yarns and often
incorporating cotton
waste.
A traditional coarse cotton
fabric, woven with uneven
yarns and often incorporating
cotton waste. Is plain weave,
resembles crash in
appearance and is the basic
fabric from which Cretonne
may be made.
OSSEIN
FILAMENTS
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
An experimental
synthetic fibre obtained
from ossein, the chief
organic basis of bone
tissue which remains as
residue after removal of
the material that matters.
An experimental synthetic
fibre obtained from ossein,
the chief organic basis of
bone tissue which remains as
residue after removal of the
material that matters. The
ossein is related to gelatine.
A major weakness of the
612
Word Category Short description Description
fibre was its brittleness
OTTOMAN fabrics Heavy fabric with broad,
flat crosswise ribs of
even size, but some
have small ribs.
Heavy fabric with broad, flat
crosswise ribs of even size,
but some have small ribs.
Ottoman cords have
alternating wide and narrow
ribs. Basic yarn used may be
silk or wool, but is now more
likely to be acetate, viscose,
triacetate or cotton. Weft
cords are usually cotton yarn
covered by the warp yarns.
Soft unyielding fabric. Used
for plain dresses, coats and
curtains. Creases easily
across the width of the fabric
OUT-OF-FIT defects See Off-register See Off-register
OUT-OF-
REGISTER
defects See Off-register. See Off-register.
OUTING
FLANNEL
fabrics a soft, lightweight, plain
or twill weave fabric
usually napped on both
sides.
a soft, lightweight, plain or
twill weave fabric usually
napped on both sides. Plain
or striped. Used often for
blazers, cricket trousers, and
sleeping garments, etc.
OUTLINE
EMBROIDERY
processes,
operations
Needlework in which the
design is outlined in
colour but not filled in.
Needlework in which the
design is outlined in colour
but not filled in.
OUTSIDE SEAM general A seam formed in which
the completed seam
allowance is located on
the exterior of the object,
usually on the face side
of the fabric.
A seam formed in which the
completed seam allowance is
located on the exterior of the
object, usually on the face
side of the fabric. An
example of an outside seam
is the flat-felled seam.
(Com-pare in Inside seam.)
OUTSIDE-LEG
LENGTH
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See
under Garment sizing
system.
OVEDRPLAID fabrics A plaid pattern with one
plaid woven over
another of the same or
different size.
A plaid pattern with one plaid
woven over another of the
same or different size. Also,
a plaid design on checked
ground
OVEN apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A heat chamber in which
textile fabrics or
garments are cured or
A heat chamber in which
textile fabrics or garments
are cured or baked. There
613
Word Category Short description Description
baked. are two types of curing ovens
(a) batch curing oven and (b)
continuous conveyor oven
OVEN-DRY
WEIGHT
general The weight of a textile
material determined after
drying
The weight of a textile
material determined after
drying by definite prescribed
methods, which in-clude
oven drying
OVER WAXING processes,
operations
The operation of waxing
a yarn after sizing.
The operation of waxing a
yarn after sizing.
OVER-END
WITHDRAWAL
processes,
operations
The unwinding of yarn
from a package
The unwinding of yarn from a
package generally along the
axis of the package.
OVER-RAISED defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Excessive
surface nap that may or may
not be accompanied by
damage to the ground
structure. It is usually caused
by the incorrect setting of the
raising machine or irregular
feed of the fabric.
OVERALL garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Workwear usually
designed to be worn
over every day clothes
Workwear usually designed
to be worn over every day
clothes to give protection to
the body and part of the legs
of the wearer.
OVERALL
CLEANING
processes,
operations
In upholstered furniture,
the application of an
appropriate cleaning
agent to the entire fabric
covering
In upholstered furniture, the
application of an appropriate
cleaning agent to the entire
fabric covering,
accomplished while the
upholstery fabric remains
attached to the furniture unit.
OVERCAST
STITCH
general A slating stitch used
around cut edges or
open parts to prevent
ravelling
A slating stitch used around
cut edges or open parts to
prevent ravelling
OVERCHAIN general See Overlock. See Overlock.
OVERCHECK fabrics A pattern in which one
check is superimposed
upon another of different
size or colour.
A pattern in which one check
is superimposed upon
another of different size or
colour.
OVERCOATING fabrics Any fabric used for
overcoats.
Any fabric used for
overcoats. Generally medium
or heavy woollen or worsted
or union fabric.
OVERCUT fibers, A synthetic staple fibre A synthetic staple fibre
614
Word Category Short description Description
filaments,
yarns
having a longer than
normal length; the length
is generally a multiple of
2,3 or more times the
normal length.
having a longer than normal
length; the length is generally
a multiple of 2,3 or more
times the normal length. An
overcut occurs when the
filaments are not cut to the
desired length during the
process of manufacturing the
staple.
OVEREDGE general There are many types of
overedge stitches, with
varying numbers of
needle threads, looper
threads and covering
threads.
There are many types of
overedge stitches, with
varying numbers of needle
threads, looper threads and
covering threads. All are
basically forms of chain
stitch, in which threads pass
round the edge of a fabric as
well as through it. The fabric
edge is trimmed in the
sewing machine and the
stitch is then formed over the
freshly cut edge.
OVEREDGING processes,
operations
The use of an overedge
stitch either by hand or
machine to bind an edge
so as to avoid fraying.
The use of an overedge
stitch either by hand or
machine to bind an edge so
as to avoid fraying. Can also
be used as a decoration.
Also described as
Overlocking
OVERFEED
FABRIC
fabrics A warp-knitted fabric in
which, generally, one
warp is fed faster than
would be required to
form normally shaped
loops.
A warp-knitted fabric in
which, generally, one warp is
fed faster than would be
required to form normally
shaped loops. The excess
yarn results in large loops
and underlaps which appear
as surface pile. The fabric
may subsequently be
brushed and raised of
sueded
OVERHAND processes,
operations
A way of examining
textile materials by
viewing horizontally at
eye-level.
A way of examining textile
materials by viewing
horizontally at eye-level.
OVERLAP processes,
operations
In warp-knitting, lateral
movement of the guide
bars on the beard or
hook side of the needles.
In warp-knitting, lateral
movement of the guide bars
on the beard or hook side of
the needles. This movement
615
Word Category Short description Description
is normally restricted to one
needle space.
OVERLAPS defects Bands of yarn found at
the ends of a yarn cone
or cheese caused by
faulty winding.
Bands of yarn found at the
ends of a yarn cone or
cheese caused by faulty
winding. They are associated
with Winding pattern and
Ribboning
OVERLENGTH
STAPLE FIBRES
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Man-made staple fibres
that are at least 10 %
longer than the nominal
or average cut length.
Man-made staple fibres that
are at least 10 % longer than
the nominal or average cut
length. (Compare to Multiple
length staple fibres.)
OVERLOCK general Stitches used to bind
edges of fabric to
prevent them fraying.
Stitches used to bind edges
of fabric to prevent them
fraying. In knitted garments
such stitches are also used
to form seams between two
or more fabrics. Invariably
overlock describes the
looped stitch construction
formed from two or more
threads, although overedge
stitches can be achieved with
a single chaining thread and
with zigzagged lockstitch.
Also called Overchain. See
also Overedge.
OVERLOCK
SEAM
general A seam in which two or
more edges of fabric are
joined together,
oversewn and edge-
trimmed in one operation
A seam in which two or more
edges of fabric are joined
together, oversewn and
edge-trimmed in one
operation, with overedge
stitches having two or more
threads.
OVERLOCKING processes,
operations
See Overedging. See Overedging.
OVERNIT fabrics See Double Piqu See Double Piqu
OVERPICK LOOM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A loom on which the
picking stick is above the
level of the shuttle box.
A loom on which the picking
stick is above the level of the
shuttle box.
OVERPRINT processes,
operations
A print applied on top of
a coloured, piece dyed
fabric.
A print applied on top of a
coloured, piece dyed fabric.
Also called Ad-hock.
OVERSHOT fabrics See Float See Float
OVERSPRAYING processes,
operations
The spraying of staple
fibres with a lubricant
The spraying of staple fibres
with a lubricant during
616
Word Category Short description Description
during blending. blending.
OVERSPUN defects A defective yarn that is
very irregular because it
has been drawn, to too
high a count for its
quality
A defective yarn that is very
irregular because it has been
drawn, to too high a count for
its quality, with resulting over-
twist in the thin places and
absence of twist in the thick
places.
OVERWIDTH defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Fabric that has
not been finished to the
proper width. Extra washing
and proper shrinking may
bring cloth to proper width, or
re-stentering may have to be
resorted to.
OXFORD
CHAMBRAY
fabrics An Oxford woven with
coloured yarn-dyed warp
and white filling
An Oxford woven with
coloured yarn-dyed warp and
white filling
OXFORD CLOTH fabrics A plain-weave shirting of
good quality yarns that
has two warp ends
weaving as one.
A plain-weave shirting of
good quality yarns that has
two warp ends weaving as
one. Soft, somewhat porous
cotton shirting fabric given a
silk-like lustre finish. Fancy
weave effects can be
incorporated. Made in plain
white or colours, and
sometimes also in coloured
yarns stripes. Usually
inexpensive fabric, but more
expensive if mercerised
cotton is used. Mainly used
for shirts, light suits, dresses.
OXFORD GREY fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A grey colour effect
produced by blending
white and black fibres.
A grey colour effect produced
by blending white and black
fibres. The percentage of
black is usually 80-95 %, so
that the cloth produced is
dark grey.
OXFORD
SHIRTING
fabrics A cotton or blended
fabric in a basket weave
originally made in Oxford
A cotton or blended fabric in
a basket weave originally
made in Oxford, and used for
shirts, blouses, and
sportswear.
OXIDATION processes,
operations
A process in which: (a) a
chemical element loses
electrons; (b) oxygen is
A process in which: (a) a
chemical element loses
electrons; (b) oxygen is
617
Word Category Short description Description
added to any chemical
formula.
added to any chemical
formula.
OXIDATION
DYES
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In principle, a small
molecular weight
intermediate is treated
under acid oxidation
conditions to form a
much larger, coloured
molecule.
In principle, a small
molecular weight
intermediate is treated under
acid oxidation conditions to
form a much larger, coloured
molecule. These dyes are
mostly used as hair and fur
dyeing. Except aniline black,
the few other oxidation
colours formerly employed in
textile printing, fell out of gen-
eral use on fastness grounds.
Oxidation dyes are:
suitable for cotton, linen,
viscose rayon, and
cuprammonium rayon fibres.
OXIDISED OIL
STAINING
processes,
operations
Staining of textiles
caused by oil acquired or
applied during
processing.
Staining of textiles caused by
oil acquired or applied during
processing. The presence of
oxidised oil may cause
discoloration and affect the
dyeing property of the
material. In the manufacture
of woollen and worsted
yarns, this discoloration is
sometimes referred as
Gliding, Yellowing, or Bronz-
ing.
OXYCELLULOSE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Cellulose changed
chemically by the action
of oxidising agents.
Cellulose changed
chemically by the action of
oxidising agents. This
produces weak or tender cot-
ton.
OXYGEN INDEX
(OI)
general Also called Limiting
oxygen index.
Also called Limiting oxygen
index. The minimum
concentration of oxygen in a
mixture of oxygen and
nitrogen (expressed as a
percentage) that will just
support flaming combustion
of a material under specified
test conditions.
OZONE FADING processes,
operations
An irreversible change in
hue that when dyed or
printed textiles are
exposed to ozone.
An irreversible change in hue
that when dyed or printed
textiles are exposed to
ozone. Ozone fading is
618
Word Category Short description Description
particularly prevalent under
severe conditions of
atmospheric pollution.
Different from gas fading.

P

Word Category Short description Description
P.A. COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Partially acetylated
cotton
Partially acetylated
cotton. This type of
cotton fibres have
good resistance to
deterioration from
mildew, rot and heat,
but they are inferior to
fully acetylated cotton
in flat and flex
abrasion and in
tensile strength.
P/C fabrics Denotes a fabric
made from a blend
of polyester and
cotton fibres.
Denotes a fabric
made from a blend of
polyester and cotton
fibres. Also called P-
C
PACKAGE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A length of yarn
wound on a carrier
or bobbin.
A length of yarn
wound on a carrier or
bobbin. See also
Yarn package.
PACKAGE BUILD fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The manner in which
the yarn coils are
arranged on a
package.
The manner in which
the yarn coils are
arranged on a
package.
PACKAGE DYEING processes,
operations
A method of dyeing
yarn. The yarn is
wound uniformly on
perforated cones or
cheeses.
A method of dyeing
yarn. The yarn is
wound uniformly on
perforated cones or
cheeses. These
packages are then
placed in a special
dyeing machine in
which the liquor is
circulated through the
yarn alternately from
the outside of the
package to the centre
and then from the
619
Word Category Short description Description
centre to the outside
of the package.
PACKING DEFECTS IN
GARMENT
defects See under Garment
defects, classified.
See under Garment
defects, classified.
PAD garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s,
processes,
operations
Abbreviated form for
Padding
1. A stiffing, wadding,
soft mass, cushion,
etc.
2. Abbreviated form
for Padding
PAD-DYEING processes,
operations
Applying a dye liquor
to textiles
Applying a dye liquor
to textiles, either by
passing the material
through a bath and
then squeezing out
the excess with heavy
rollers or by passing it
between squeeze
rollers, the bottom
one of which carries
the liquor paste.
PAD-STEAM CONTIUOUS
DYEING
processes,
operations
A speedy pad-dyeing
process
A speedy pad-dyeing
process, which
operates at high
temperatures and is
used mainly to apply
vat dyes in
approximately one-
tenth the time
required for batch
methods like jig
dyeing and pad
dyeing.
PADDER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A set of squeeze
rollers used to
impregnate any
fabric with a liquid
A set of squeeze
rollers used to
impregnate any fabric
with a liquid by
continuous passage
of the fabric through
the liquid and then
between the rollers.
PADDING processes,
operations
Cloth impregnation
process executed
through a padding
mangle
Cloth impregnation
process executed
through a padding
mangle
PADDING STITCH general A herringbone or
zigzag basting stitch
A herringbone or
zigzag basting stitch
620
Word Category Short description Description
that is helpful in the
shaping of a garment.
PADDING YARN fabrics See Wadding yarn See Wadding yarn
PADDLE DYEING processes,
operations
A method of dyeing
clothing, hosiery and
other small pieces
while packaged
loosely in mesh bags
A method of dyeing
clothing, hosiery and
other small pieces
while packaged
loosely in mesh bags.
The dyeing machine
consists of an open
tank and revolving
paddles which
circulate the bags in
the dyeing bath
PADDOCK fabrics Term describes a
worsted fabric which
resembles gabardine
in weight and
moisture repellence.
Term describes a
worsted fabric which
resembles gabardine
in weight and
moisture repellence.
Commonly seen at
race courses.
PAINTED CLOTH fabrics A canvas with
various mottoes
painted in oil
A canvas with various
mottoes painted in oil.
Used for wall
hangings.
PAINTED FABRIC fabrics Any fabric with hand-
painted designs.
Any fabric with hand-
painted designs.
PAISLEY fabrics Originally only from
Scotland, paisley
meant a shawl made
in fine soft woollen
yarn, with a woven
design derived from
Indian patterns.
Originally only from
Scotland, paisley
meant a shawl made
in fine soft woollen
yarn, with a woven
design derived from
Indian patterns. Fine
fabric, always with
scroll designs. The
true Paisely cloth is
very expensive. Now,
anything of any fibre
or mixture printed
with the traditional
elaborate
multicoloured scrolls
is described as
paisley design.
PAJ AMA CHECKS fabrics Fabric with two,
three or more warp
Fabric with two, three
or more warp and
621
Word Category Short description Description
and weft threads
weaving as one in
plain and fancy
basket weaves
weft threads weaving
as one in plain and
fancy basket weaves.
Similar to a checked
dimity. Used in union
suits, shorts, hospital
gowns and summer
dresses.
PAJ AMA CLOTH fabrics A hard-wearing
cotton (once silk)
fabric with a close
warp and woven in
stripes of varying
widths and colours.
A hard-wearing cotton
(once silk) fabric with
a close warp and
woven in stripes of
varying widths and
colours. The fabric is
often brushed on the
right side. See
Pajama
PAJ AMAS garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
A two piece
ensemble consisting
of a top and a
bottom
A two piece ensemble
consisting of a top
and a bottom
generally used for,
but not limited to,
nightwear.
PAK-NIT processes,
operations
Mechanical dry
system of
compressive
shrinkage
Mechanical dry
system of
compressive
shrinkage used to
make tubular knit
goods dimensionally
stable; calenders are
eliminated.
PALAMPORES fabrics Indian hand-painted
cotton fabric with
fairly large size
designs
Indian hand-painted
cotton fabric with
fairly large size
designs; often
patterned with Tree
of life motifs. Used
for bedcovers,
hangings and framed
PALGHAT MAT garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
A fine sleeping mat
made in India from
the leaves of the
sedge Cyperus
laevigatus.
A fine sleeping mat
made in India from
the leaves of the
sedge Cyperus
laevigatus.
PALM FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A general term
sometimes applied
to any fibres
obtained from the
A general term
sometimes applied to
any fibres obtained
from the plants or
622
Word Category Short description Description
plants or trees of the
palm family, e.g.
Palma, Palmetto,
Palmyra,
Piassaca, etc
trees of the palm
family, e.g. Palma,
Palmetto, Palmyra,
Piassaca, etc
PALMERING processes,
operations
A finishing treatment
to give mellowness
to the hand of the
fabrics.
A finishing treatment
to give mellowness to
the hand of the
fabrics. The
equipment consists of
a large, steam-heated
cylinder covered with
an endless
papermakers felt
apron. The material is
led between two
continuous aprons
and the heat, aided
by the smoothness of
the aprons, will give
the fabrics a smooth,
calendered effect
which is more
appealing than an
ordinary calender
finish.
PAN FIBRES fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Polyacrylonitrile
fibres.
See Polyacrylonitrile
fibres.
PANAMA fabrics Very lightweight
fabric used for mens
summer and tropical
wear and womens
dresses.
Very lightweight fabric
used for mens
summer and tropical
wear and womens
dresses. The yarns
used are cotton and
worsted in the
traditional Panama
cloth, although other
fibres such as
polyester and viscose
are sometimes used.
The cloth has a
recognisable square-
weave effect, and is
usually in plain
colours. A crisp
fabric.
PANAMA CANVAS fabrics A canvas of matt A canvas of matt
623
Word Category Short description Description
weave that is given a
beetled finish and
used for embroidery
purposes.
weave that is given a
beetled finish and
used for embroidery
purposes.
PANAMA HAT garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
Mens and womens
straw hat made from
fine, hand-plaited,
creamy coloured
toquilla straw.
Mens and womens
straw hat made from
fine, hand-plaited,
creamy coloured
toquilla straw.
Panama hats are
mainly made in
Ecuador.
PANAMA WEAVE fabrics A weave which
consists of several
warp and weft
threads crossing
each other at once
A weave which
consists of several
warp and weft
threads crossing each
other at once,
producing a mat-like
effect
PANELS fabrics Knitted hosiery
swatches or panels
used for testing
purposes.
Knitted hosiery
swatches or panels
used for testing
purposes.
PANN fabrics Flattened or pressed
flat as Pann velvet.
Flattened or pressed
flat as Pann velvet.
PANN SATIN fabrics Silk or synthetic satin
with an unusually
high lustre because
of a special finish
Silk or synthetic satin
with an unusually
high lustre because of
a special finish
PANN VELVET fabrics Silk or synthetic
velvet with a short
pile on the right side
that is pressed flat
and laid in one
direction during
manufacture.
Silk or synthetic
velvet with a short
pile on the right side
that is pressed flat
and laid in one
direction during
manufacture. This
gives the effect of a
shiny shimmery
velvet. The fabric is
soft and floppy,
comfortable to wear.
It is the easiest of all
velvets to sew.
Drapes well. Used for
eveningwear, robes,
leisure clothes, tops
and trousers.
624
Word Category Short description Description
PANTING fabrics Sometimes refers to
Trousering.
Sometimes refers to
Trousering.
PANTOGRAPH apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A device used to
copy a printing
design in a scale
other than the
original.
A device used to copy
a printing design in a
scale other than the
original.
PAPER FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibres unsuitable for
textile operations,
but which find use in
paper making.
Fibres unsuitable for
textile operations, but
which find use in
paper making. These
include flax, cotton,
rayon, linen, silk,
nylon, vinyl fibres,
jute and other bast
fibres. These are
used in conjunction
with other normal
paper raw materials,
such as wood pulp.
PAPER MUSLIN fabrics A lightweight cotton
muslin which has
been sized and
glazed, mainly used
for lining.
A lightweight cotton
muslin which has
been sized and
glazed, mainly used
for lining.
PAPER TAFFETA fabrics A fine-weave,
lightweight taffeta
fabric which has
been treated to
make it crisper than
usual.
A fine-weave,
lightweight taffeta
fabric which has been
treated to make it
crisper than usual.
The crispness is
usually a permanent
finish. It produces a
paper-like crackle.
See Taffeta.
PAPER YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Treated paper of
high strength is
made into paper
yarns for use alone,
to twist with other
fibre yarns, or to
surround the core in
a core yarn.
Treated paper of high
strength is made into
paper yarns for use
alone, to twist with
other fibre yarns, or to
surround the core in a
core yarn. These
yarns are used for
knitted and woven
garments and
household articles
PAPERING processes,
operations
The insertion of cold
or heated board
The insertion of cold
or heated board
625
Word Category Short description Description
elements (papers)
into folds of fabric
prior to pressing in a
hydraulic press.
elements (papers)
into folds of fabric
prior to pressing in a
hydraulic press.
PAPERY FINISH processes,
operations
A hyper-smooth
finish on fabric
produced by sizing
and calendering.
A hyper-smooth finish
on fabric produced by
sizing and
calendering. Often
quite and crisp in
hand.
PAPIER MACH general A paper-based
mixture that can be
shaped or moulded
into strong,
lightweight articles
such as dress forms.
A paper-based
mixture that can be
shaped or moulded
into strong,
lightweight articles
such as dress forms.
PAPYRUS FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibres from a rush-
like aquatic plant,
formerly common in
Egypt. Used for
writing paper.
Fibres from a rush-
like aquatic plant,
formerly common in
Egypt. Used for
writing paper. The
stem fibres have
been used since
ancient times for
cloth, sails, mats,
cords, etc.
PARACHUTE FABRIC fabrics A lightweight but
strong fabric used for
parachutes
A lightweight but
strong fabric used for
parachutes; originally
of silk but now of
nylon yarn.
PARAFFIN DUCK fabrics A stiff, heavy, water-
proofed duck treated
with a preparation of
paraffin.
A stiff, heavy, water-
proofed duck treated
with a preparation of
paraffin. Used for
coats and trousers for
rough outdoor wear.
PARAGUAY LACE fabrics Single threads are
used to produce
spiders web effects,
which are then
woven together.
Single threads are
used to produce
spiders web effects,
which are then woven
together.
PARALLEL LINE GRATINGS apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Transparent plates
containing uniformly
spaced parallel lines
in the cross-wise
direction.
Transparent plates
containing uniformly
spaced parallel lines
in the cross-wise
direction. It is
626
Word Category Short description Description
possible to determine
the number of threads
per unit length (cm or
inch) in a fabric by
selecting an
appropriate grating
and placing it parallel
to a set of threads.
The number of lines
appearing on the
grating indicates the
difference between
the total number of
lines on the grating
and the total number
of threads in the area
covered by the
grating. By placing a
grating at a small
angle to a set of
threads, irregularities
in their spacing can
be detected
PARALLEL WORSTED
SYSTEM
processes,
operations
See Modified
worsted system.
See Modified worsted
system.
PARALLEL WOUND
PACKAGE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A package on which
the yarn coils are
wound side-by-side
roughly
perpendicular to the
package axis.
A package on which
the yarn coils are
wound side-by-side
roughly perpendicular
to the package axis.
PARALLELING processes,
operations
Laying strands of
fibres straight and
even by machine
operations, such as
combing or drawing.
Laying strands of
fibres straight and
even by machine
operations, such as
combing or drawing.
PARAMATTA fabrics A fine quality 1/2 twill
fabric with worsted
weft, used
particularly in the
making of double-
texture rubber-
proofed garments.
A fine quality 1/2 twill
fabric with worsted
weft, used particularly
in the making of
double-texture
rubber-proofed
garments. The term
was originally applied
to a dress fabric with
silk (later cotton)
warp, woven in
Paramatta, New
627
Word Category Short description Description
South Wales.
PARCHMENTIZING processes,
operations
A finishing treatment,
comprising a short
contact with, e.g.
sulphuric acid of high
concentration
A finishing treatment,
comprising a short
contact with, e.g.
sulphuric acid of high
concentration, the
aim of which is to
produce a variety of
effects, depending on
the type of fabric and
the conditions used,
ranging from a linen-
like handle to a
transparent organdie
effect. The treatment
is applied mainly to
cotton. Apart from
sulphuric acid some
other reagents also
produce these
effects.
PARIS BINDING accessorie
s
A binding, with firm
handle, of twill or
herringbone twill
weave (usually 3/1)
A binding, with firm
handle, of twill or
herringbone twill
weave (usually 3/1)
originally made with
silk warp and
polished cotton weft,
but usually made with
mercerised cotton or
continuous filament
warp and weft. Often
used to reinforce
clothing subject to
high abrasion. See
Kick tape.
PART WOOL FELT fabrics A textile composed
of wool fibres
A textile composed of
wool fibres in
combination with any
one or any
combination of
natural or man-made
fibres.
PARTIAL ACETYLATION processes,
operations
A process, in which
cotton in the form of
fibre or yarn is
subjected to partial
acetylation
A process, in which
cotton in the form of
fibre or yarn is
subjected to partial
acetylation to impart
628
Word Category Short description Description
it, special properties.
See also Acetylation.
PARTIAL RACKING processes,
operations
See under Racking See under Racking
PARTIALLY ORIENTED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A continuous
filament yarn made
by extruding a
synthetic polymer
A continuous filament
yarn made by
extruding a synthetic
polymer so that a
substantial degree of
molecular orientation
is present in the
resulting filaments,
but further molecular
orientation is
possible, i.e. filament
yarn which is
incompletely drawn.
PASHMINA TWEED fabrics A term used to
describe tweed
fabric woven with
hand-spun cashmere
yarn on hand-looms
in Kashmir
A term used to
describe tweed fabric
woven with hand-
spun cashmere yarn
on hand-looms in
Kashmir
PASSEMENTERIE accessorie
s
Trimmings,
especially braids,
beads, cord, gimp,
etc
Trimmings, especially
braids, beads, cord,
gimp, etc
PASTELS fabrics Fabrics dyed in light
shade colours.
Fabrics dyed in light
shade colours.
PATCH fabrics An ornamental piece
of fabric generally
with embroidered
design, sewn on a
garment.
An ornamental piece
of fabric generally
with embroidered
design, sewn on a
garment. May be an
insignia, badge or
other decorative trim.
PATCH POCKET garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
A pocket formed by
attaching a piece of
material to the
surface of a
garment.
A pocket formed by
attaching a piece of
material to the
surface of a garment.
PATCH WORK processes,
operations
Pieces of fabric in
various colours
and/or shapes sewn
together
Pieces of fabric in
various colours
and/or shapes sewn
together to form a
textile article such as
a quilt or pillow cover.
629
Word Category Short description Description
PATENT LEATHER fabrics A varnished leather
that is very
expensive.
A varnished leather
that is very
expensive. Used
mainly for shoes and
handbags.
PATOLA fabrics A plain weave, richly
decorated, silk fabric
with a tie-dyed or
hand-blocked
border, made in
India.
A plain weave, richly
decorated, silk fabric
with a tie-dyed or
hand-blocked border,
made in India.
PATTERN fabrics,
garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
Design of a fabric
which is either
woven-in or printed
on the cloth.
1. Design of a fabric
which is either
woven-in or printed
on the cloth.
2. A replica of
garment in flat card or
paper. A template
used for marking out
the parts of a garment
on material prior to
cutting. See also
Block pattern.
PATTERN BLANKET fabrics Also called
Designers blanket
Also called
Designers blanket.
The product of a
system for designing
fabrics, especially
suitings, whereby a
warp consisting of a
number of different
block stripes is woven
in a given pattern and
weft in different
colours or picking
patterns are
introduced at
intervals. The
resulting blanket
exhibits a number of
combinations of
colours in a single
construction, some of
which constitute a
random range.
Pattern blankets are
used to provide
samples for
630
Word Category Short description Description
commercial selection.
PATTERN CHAIN apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Chain used on looms
to control the pattern
of the fabric.
Chain used on looms
to control the pattern
of the fabric.
PATTERN CUTTER general A person who
determines the
shapes of the
components of
garments, to ensure
that they fit together
A person who
determines the
shapes of the
components of
garments, to ensure
that they fit together
and, when
assembled, reflect the
intentions of the
designer and also
ensure that they
conform to the
dimensions of
intended size.
PATTERN DEFECTS IN
GARMENT
defects See under Garment
defects, classified.
See under Garment
defects, classified.
PATTERN WARPING processes,
operations
Also called Band
warping.
Also called Band
warping. The process
of preparing warp
beams over two
stages; first winding
the yarn in narrow
tapes on a large drum
or reel, and then
rewinding the
complete warp onto
the beam.
PBI FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
P.B.I. is an
abbreviation for
polybenzimidazole.
A manufactured fibre
in which the fibre-
forming substance is
a long chain aromatic
polymer having
reoccurring imidazole
groups as an integral
part of the polymer
chain. P.B.I. is an
abbreviation for
polybenzimidazole.
PEANUT FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A synthetic staple
fibre produced from
a protein base
derivative from
peanut meal.
A synthetic staple
fibre produced from a
protein base
derivative from
peanut meal. It has
soft hand, is quite
631
Word Category Short description Description
lofty, but is relatively
low in dry and wet
tenacity.
PEARLE COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A loosely twisted,
mercerised cotton
thread with a rope or
corded appearance.
A loosely twisted,
mercerised cotton
thread with a rope or
corded appearance. It
has some weaving
and knitting
applications but
mainly used for
needlework of various
kinds.
PEARLS fabrics Also called Purls Also called Purls.In
lace, small loops
either at the edge of a
piece of narrow lace
or used as decoration
in Brides.
PEAU fabrics A French term for
skin.
A French term for
skin. Combined with
one or more words to
designate fabrics.
PEAU DE CYGNE fabrics A very soft satin
fabric, woven in fine
soft yarns with a
lustrous finish.
A very soft satin
fabric, woven in fine
soft yarns with a
lustrous finish. Used
mainly for expensive
lingerie. See Satin.
PEAU DE SOIE fabrics A French term,
meaning literally
skin of silk
A French term,
meaning literally skin
of silk applied
originally to a fine silk
fabric, the term is now
also used to describe
fabrics made from
synthetic fibres, such
as polyester and
acetate, that have the
typical look of peau
de soie. It is a satin
weave with matt finish
on both sides, and is
usually a firm, heavy
fabric in plain colours.
Used for formal
dresses.
PEBBLE fabrics A term often used for A term often used for
632
Word Category Short description Description
the characteristic
appearance of a
crpe fabric.
the characteristic
appearance of a
crpe fabric.
PEBBLE WEAVE fabrics A granite weave. A granite weave.
PECCARY LEATHER fabrics A lightweight pigskin
leather.
A lightweight pigskin
leather. Used for
gloves.
PECTASE See under Enzymes. See under Enzymes.
PEEL BOND STRENGTH general Actual force required
to peel or to
separate two layers
of bonded goods.
Actual force required
to peel or to separate
two layers of bonded
goods. This test is
done on the fabric
both on wet and dry.
Result expressed in
unit weight of pull per
one-inch width of the
bonded goods.
PEGGING processes,
operations
A finishing process
that is used to
produce a lustre on
velveteens.
A finishing process
that is used to
produce a lustre on
velveteens. The pile
is rubbed with blocks
of wood or soapstone
PEKIN fabrics A design in which
wide stripes of equal
width are woven in
different colours or
weaves
A design in which
wide stripes of equal
width are woven in
different colours or
weaves
PELT general Skin of an animal,
including the hair.
Skin of an animal,
including the hair.
Specifically, the skin
of sheep, including
the wool.
PENCIL STRIPE fabrics A dark stripe on a
lighter ground
(regardless of the
width of stripe.
A dark stripe on a
lighter ground
(regardless of the
width of stripe. See
also Pin stripe and
Chalk stripe.
PENCILLING processes,
operations
In printing, the
touching up of a
printed fabric with a
fine brush.
In printing, the
touching up of a
printed fabric with a
fine brush.
PENETRABILITY OF FABRIC fabrics A fabrics ability to
permit penetration by
rain
A fabrics ability to
permit penetration by
rain
633
Word Category Short description Description
PENETRATION OF SIZE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The extent to which
a size solution
penetrates into the
yarn structure.
The extent to which a
size solution
penetrates into the
yarn structure.
PENTA-LOBAL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A five-sided man-
made fibre as seen
in cross section
under the
microscope.
A five-sided man-
made fibre as seen in
cross section under
the microscope. The
modification of the
circular shape to the
penta-lobal has been
done to increase the
lustre of the yarn.
PENTAGRAPH apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The machine using
the pantograph
principle to transfer
at one time as many
print-design repeats
as are required
around the surface
of the copper
cylinder
The machine using
the pantograph
principle to transfer at
one time as many
print-design repeats
as are required
around the surface of
the copper cylinder.
Originally the design
was always increased
five times in size on
to the zinc master
plate before being
transferred at original
size on to the surface
of the copper
cylinder; hence this
traditional corruption
of the word
pantograph in textile
trade.
PEPPER AND SALT fabrics Fabric having fine
speckled effect
Fabric having fine
speckled effect. The
appearance of cloth
suggests a mixture of
salt and pepper. The
effect is obtained by
the use of two-
coloured twisted
yarns, ordinarily in
black and white or by
the intricacy of weave
with two or more solid
coloured yarns. Cloth
also made in shades
634
Word Category Short description Description
of grey, brown, green,
and blue, etc. See
also Salt and pepper.
PERCALE fabrics A closely woven
plain weave fabric,
usually of Egyptian
cotton, or lighter
weight than chintz.
A closely woven plain
weave fabric, usually
of Egyptian cotton, or
lighter weight than
chintz. A percale has
smooth surface and
compact structure,
may be plain or
printed, glazed or
unglazed. It is
hardwearing and
launders well. Used
for blouses, shirts,
and childrens
clothes, sheets and
duvet covers. See
also under Sheeting.
Percale, as applied to
bed sheeting, is a
plain weave fabric
with not fewer than
180 yarns/inch2.
PERCALINE fabrics Lightweight cotton
print fabric similar to
lawn, with a bright
soft finish.
Lightweight cotton
print fabric similar to
lawn, with a bright
soft finish. Usually the
yarn is mercerised.
Used for lining fur
garments.
PERCE fabrics Perforated effect. Perforated effect.
Specifically, eye-let
patterns.
PERCENT ELONGATION general Deprecated term. Deprecated term. Use
the term Elongation.
PERCENTAGE COVER fabrics Cover factor as a
percentage of the
maximum possible
for a particular
weave structure.
Cover factor as a
percentage of the
maximum possible for
a particular weave
structure.
PERCENTAGE MATURITY fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A method of
expressing,
numerically, the
maturity of a sample
of cotton fibres
A method of
expressing,
numerically, the
maturity of a sample
of cotton fibres. It is
the percentage fibres
635
Word Category Short description Description
in the sample whose
walls have developed
to greater than
specified degree. See
also Maturity ratio
and Percentage
maturity
PERCENTAGE POINT general A difference of 1% of
a base quantity
A difference of 1% of
a base quantity
PERCH apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A machine used for
inspecting fabrics for
defects.
A machine used for
inspecting fabrics for
defects. The machine
permits full width
inspection of the cloth
PERCHING processes,
operations
Examination of
woven goods to
record all visible
defects and
imperfections
Examination of woven
goods to record all
visible defects and
imperfections for
correction in
subsequent finishing
operations, or for
quality classification
of finished goods.
PERFORATED WEAVE fabrics An open mesh
character of mock-
leno fabric created
by the weave
An open mesh
character of mock-
leno fabric created by
the weave. The effect
may be emphasised
by leaving one or
more dents empty
and varying the rate
of take-up.
Lightweight open
textures are
sometimes called to
as imitation mock
gauze.
PERFORMANCE
CHARACTERISTICS,
FABRICS
fabrics See Fabric
performance
characteristics.
See Fabric
performance
characteristics.
PERFORMANCE PROPERTY general In wear testing, any
chemical or physical
property of a fibre,
yarn, or fabric that is
evaluated during the
wear-refurbishing
cycles.
In wear testing, any
chemical or physical
property of a fibre,
yarn, or fabric that is
evaluated during the
wear-refurbishing
cycles.
636
Word Category Short description Description
PERLE processes,
operations
A finishing process
used on woollen
dress fabrics, which
raises the nap in the
form of dots.
A finishing process
used on woollen
dress fabrics, which
raises the nap in the
form of dots.
PERLOK PROCESS processes,
operations
A process whereby
groups of continuous
filament tow are
converted through
breaking or cutting
into a top or sliver.
A process whereby
groups of continuous
filament tow are
converted through
breaking or cutting
into a top or sliver.
PERLON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Trade name of a
polyamide fibre.
Trade name of a
polyamide fibre. Has
the same properties
as nylon.
PERMANENT DEFORMATION general Same as Permanent
set
Same as Permanent
set
PERMANENT FINISH processes,
operations
A finishing process
applied to various
fabrics which will
retain their specific
properties
A finishing process
applied to various
fabrics which will
retain their specific
properties, such as
glaze on chintz,
crispness in organdy,
smoothness on cotton
table damask, crease
resistance, crush
resistance, and shrink
resistance, during
normal period of wear
and laundering.
However it is
misnomer, because in
most cases finishes
are not completely
permanent. The
words resistant or
durable are more
accurate.
PERMANENT PLEATING processes,
operations
Wide variety of
permanently pleated
fabric available.
Wide variety of
permanently pleated
fabric available. Is
usually knife pleated-
narrow pleats on fine
fabric, wider ones on
thicker fabrics. The
fabric may be of
almost any weave,
637
Word Category Short description Description
including knit, and
may be closely woven
or have a lacy
pattern. If the fibre is
synthetic the pleating
will be permanent and
therefore probably
washable, but if
natural fibres included
the pleating cannot
be heat set and is
therefore not
permanent. Many
fabrics are available
in matching colours;
one plain cloth, the
other pleated, so that
garments combining
both can be made.
The fabrics vary from
chiffon and georgette,
to fine knits and quite
heavy skirt and dress
fabrics. Some of it is
sold flat with the
pleats removed,
some is sold with a
paper backing and
measured with the
pleats folded. It is all
fairly expensive.
PERMANENT PRESS processes,
operations
This term as a
substitute to durable
press is undesirable
This term as a
substitute to durable
press is undesirable.
See Durable press.
PERMANENT SET processes,
operations
See under Setting. See under Setting.
PERMANENT STARCHLESS
FINISH
processes,
operations
A finishing process
that impregnates a
fabric and is not
dissolved in
laundering.
A finishing process
that impregnates a
fabric and is not
dissolved in
laundering. The cloth
returns to its original
crispness when
ironed.
PERMASTIFF SEW-IN accessorie
s
See Under Sew-in
woven interfacings.
See Under Sew-in
woven interfacings.
PERMEABILITY general The rate of flow of a The rate of flow of a
638
Word Category Short description Description
fluid under a
differential pressure
through a material.
fluid under a
differential pressure
through a material.
See also Air
permeability.
Fluid under
differential pressure
includes: gas under
differential gas
pressure, vapour
under differential
vapour pressure,
water under
differential hydrostatic
pressure
PEROXIDE processes,
operations
An oxide containing
a relatively high
proportion of oxygen.
An oxide containing a
relatively high
proportion of oxygen.
Strictly, a higher
oxide in which oxygen
is joined to oxygen,
as in hydrogen
peroxide. Very useful
as bleaching agents.
PERSPIRATION general A saline fluid
secreted by the
sweat glands
A saline fluid secreted
by the sweat glands,
which can cause on
fabrics, odour, loss of
colour and strength.
There are
perspiration resistant
finishes which are
useful for dress
fabrics and especially
linings.
PERSPIRATION-RESISTANT fabrics A term applied to
fabrics or dyes which
are relatively
unaffected by acid
and alkaline
perspiration.
A term applied to
fabrics or dyes which
are relatively
unaffected by acid
and alkaline
perspiration.
PETERSHAM RIBBON accessorie
s
MILLINERY. Ribbon
in plain weave
originally used on
ladies hats which
usually has a
continuous filament
warp
1. MILLINERY.
Ribbon in plain weave
originally used on
ladies hats which
usually has a
continuous filament
warp, typically with
639
Word Category Short description Description
10-12 picks per cm of
cotton or spun
viscose giving it a
pronounced rib. The
edge is formed by the
turn of the weft.
2. SKIRT. A narrow
fabric having a
pronounced rib,
usually with 9-12
picks per cm and
having lateral
stiffness produced
either by the high
density of the weave
or by a finishing
process. In older
times, some were
woven with pockets
for whale born or
plastic strips to give
added lateral
stiffness. In the
contrast to Petersham
ribbon, millinery,
above, it has an edge
of contrasting weave.
PETIT POINT STITCH general A small, slanting
stitch worked over
the separated double
threads of the
canvas
A small, slanting
stitch worked over the
separated double
threads of the canvas
to form even lines of
solid background.
Used on cushions,
chair covers and
handbags.
PH (pH) general A measure of the
acidity or alkalinity of
a solution
A measure of the
acidity or alkalinity of
a solution, with
neutrality represented
by a value of 7, with
increasing acidity
represented by
increasingly smaller
values, and with
increasing alkalinity
represented by
increasingly larger
values.
640
Word Category Short description Description
The negative
logarithm of the
effective hydrogen ion
concentration or
hydrogen ion activity
in gram equivalents
per litre used in
expressing both
acidity and alkalinity
on a scale whose
values run from 0-14,
with 7 representing
neutrality, numbers
less than 7 increasing
acidity, and numbers
greater than 7
increasing alkalinity.
PHILIPPINE EMBROIDERY processes,
operations
Hand needlework,
characterised by
dainty floral designs.
Hand needlework,
characterised by
dainty floral designs.
Primarily used on less
expensive lingerie.
PHOOL KARY fabrics A striped cotton
muslin embroidered
with small buds,
branches and other
designs.
A striped cotton
muslin embroidered
with small buds,
branches and other
designs. From around
Lashkar, India.
PHORMIUM fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The fibre from wildly
grown flax plant
phoriun tenax in
New Zealand.
The fibre from wildly
grown flax plant
phoriun tenax in
New Zealand. Fairly
strong and flexible,
and has good
resistance to sea
water. Used mainly
for ropes, twines and
coarse bagging
materials. Same as
New Zealand flax
PHOTOCHROMISM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In some dyeings the
colour of a dyeing
changes on
exposure to light, but
reverts to its original
state after the
sample is kept in the
dark.
In some dyeings the
colour of a dyeing
changes on exposure
to light, but reverts to
its original state after
the sample is kept in
the dark.
A qualitative
641
Word Category Short description Description
designation for a
reversible change in
colour of any kind
(whether a change in
hue or chroma) which
is immediately
noticeable upon
termination of light
exposures when the
exposed area of a
specimen is
compared to the
unexposed area. The
reversion of the
colour change or
instability of the hue
or chroma upon
standing in the dark
distinguishes
phototropism from
fading.
Photochromism is a
reaction influenced by
the wavelength of the
light energy from the
sun. These
wavelengths can be
long and invisible
(infra red), the
medium and visible
and short and
invisible (UV
radiation).
In technical terms,
photochromism is the
inter-conversion of
two molecular states
(A & B) brought about
by the absorption of
light. A absorbs light
at a certain
wavelength and
converts to B. In the
absence of the
activating
wavelength, B
spontaneously
reconverts to A. It is a
molecular see-saw
642
Word Category Short description Description
that is at the heart of
photochromism.
PHOTODEGRADATION processes,
operations
Degradation caused
by the absorption of
light or other
radiation and by
consequent chemical
reactions.
Degradation caused
by the absorption of
light or other radiation
and by consequent
chemical reactions.
Ultra-violet radiation
is an especially
potent cause
PHOTOGRAPHIC
ENGRAVING
processes,
operations
See Process
engraving
See Process
engraving
PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTING processes,
operations
Application of a
photographic image
to cloth
Application of a
photographic image
to cloth, by transfer
from photo-engraved
copper rolls or rollers.
PHOTOGRAVURE processes,
operations
The process by
which AN engraving
is produced in a
metal plate or
cylinder by means of
light acting on a
sensitised surface
and the resultant
image then being
etched in acid.
The process by which
AN engraving is
produced in a metal
plate or cylinder by
means of light acting
on a sensitised
surface and the
resultant image then
being etched in acid.
Conventional gravure
cylinders all have
cells or dots of the
same width but
varying depth so that
they hold either more
or less ink, thus
producing varying
tones of one colour.
One of the main
methods of printing
transfer paper for
transfer printing
PHOTOMECHANICAL
TECHNIQUES
processes,
operations
In printing,
photographic
techniques
In printing,
photographic
techniques in which a
screen serves to
break up the
gradations of a
continuous-tone
subject into a series
of minute dots of
643
Word Category Short description Description
varying size or a
series of fine lines.
PHOTOMETER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
An instrument that
measures the light
reflectancy of
surfaces.
An instrument that
measures the light
reflectancy of
surfaces. Find use in
the testing of
whiteness, soil
removal, colour
fading, etc.
PHOTOMICROGRAPH general A photograph of a
magnified object
obtained by
attaching a camera
to a microscope.
A photograph of a
magnified object
obtained by attaching
a camera to a
microscope.
PHTHALOGEN See under Ingrain
dye.
See under Ingrain
dye.
PHYSICAL TEXTILE TESTING general Laboratory tests
made on fibres,
yarns and fabrics by
mechanical devices.
Laboratory tests
made on fibres, yarns
and fabrics by
mechanical devices.
PHYSIOLOGICAL COMFORTS
OF GARMENTS
garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
One of the main
purposes of clothing
is to protect the body
from heat loss.
One of the main
purposes of clothing
is to protect the body
from heat loss. It has
been found that still
air is the best
possible insulator,
which plays a very
important part in
retaining body
warmth. There is
trapped air between
the yarns and fibres
of a fabric, also within
the kinks and curls of
textural filaments, and
in any brushed or pile
surface, all of which
increases a fabrics
warmth virtually by
the way the air is
used. There is very
large volume of air in
most fabrics as, for
instance, in a blanket
more than 90% of the
bulk is occupied by
644
Word Category Short description Description
air. In order to provide
insulation the
entrapped air must be
immobilised, and
therefore under windy
conditions the outer
layer of the clothing
assembly should be
almost impermeable
to air.
Although fabrics can
be constructed to
have very low
permeability, no
woven or knitted
fabric can ever be
completely
impermeable. This
can only be achieved
by laminating the
fabric to a plastic film
or coating. But, very
closely woven cotton
fabrics, or polyester
and cotton blended,
using fine yarns set
very closely together
so that air and wind
have difficulty in
passing between
them, from a
reasonably good
insulating outer layer,
particularly if finished
with a showerproof
treatment.
The value of air gaps
between clothing
layers, has been
tested on a person
wearing a vest, shirt
and jacket show that
has been found out to
be tests, and the
results show that out
of the total thermal
resistance for the
whole assembly, 66%
is due to the
645
Word Category Short description Description
garments and 34% to
the air gaps between
them; such air gaps
between garment
layers can contribute
significantly to the
warmth of a clothing
system. Yet because
fibres in a textile
fabric occupy only a
small fraction of the
total volume, the
difference in thermal
conductivity between
one fibre and another
is unimportant in
clothing for average
climates.
These with low
conductivity, often
used for internal
layers of cold weather
clothing, are
polypropylene,
polyester and
polyvinylchloride.
Wool, acrylic, and
cellulose acetate are
higher, then viscose
and polyethylene.
Cotton has the
highest thermal
conductivity; i.e.
produces the lowest
heat retention. The
thermal insulation of
air is about one
thirtieth of most fibres
and about one sixth
of most fabrics.
Textiles can protect
the body from
excessive radiant
heat such as the
suns rays, or the
heat of a furnace. In
this case a dense
fabric construction is
necessary in order to
646
Word Category Short description Description
gain maximum
protection. Colour can
also divert radiant
heat from the body by
means of reflection.
White provides good
heat reflection
whereas black is the
least effective. Thick
fabrics coated with
aluminium foil give a
high protection
against radiant heat,
although aluminium
paint is less efficient.
In addition to
protecting the body
against excessive
heat from the outside,
it is necessary in cold
climates to protect it
from radiant heat loss
from the body into the
clothing assembly or
the outside
atmosphere.
Under normal
conditions of
atmospheric
temperature and
humidity (the amount
of moisture in the air)
and of body activity,
the entire human
body is continuously
producing
perspiration in order
to regulate the bodys
temperature, which
evaporates within the
skin layers and is
emitted in the form of
water vapour, which
is invisible.
Physiologists refer to
it as sensible
perspiration which is
liquid sweat normally
only appearing when
647
Word Category Short description Description
the temperature and
humidity of the air is
abnormally high or
the individual
indulges in strenuous
exercise. A third form
of perspiration is the
apocrine sweating
from certain glands
which can contribute
to offensive body
odours; this can be
either acid or alkaline.
But as long as the
normal perspiration
remains insensible -
that is, in vapour form
- a person will feel
reasonably
comfortable. Yet if
water vapour cannot
escape quickly
enough through the
clothing, the
percentage of relative
humidity at skin level
will increase, making
the wearer feel
clammy and if the
conditions and type of
clothing are such that
the relative humidity
within the clothing is
increased to 100%,
liquid moisture is
formed on the skin
and sometimes on
the garment, by
condensation of the
water vapour, and the
discomfort is
increased. To be
comfortable the skin
must be kept in a dry
condition and the
body temperature
should be constant,
not too high or too
low - between 35C
648
Word Category Short description Description
and 40C, preferably
at 37C.
The need for fabrics
to allow transmission
of water vapour is
generally understood
but it is often
confused with air
permeability. Air and
water vapour pass
through a fabric in
different ways. All
textile fibres
irrespective of their
chemical composition
are impermeable to
air and therefore the
passage of air
through a fabric can
only take place
through spaces
between the fibres,
called the interstices.
The water vapour on
the other hand,
passes through fabric
in several ways,
sometimes through
the interstices and
sometimes right
through the fibre
itself, evaporating in
the process, which
can cause cooling of
the skin. Every fibre
has a different ability
to absorb and
evaporate moisture.
For example, PVC
fibres, polypropylene
and polyethylene
fibres have none;
polyester and nylon
have very little; wool
has reasonably good
ability, whilst linen,
viscose and cotton
are very good for this
purposes. Water
649
Word Category Short description Description
vapour can pass
through all absorbent
fibres, but some have
better facilities for
moisture evaporation
than others. It is
possible to have a
fabric with very low
air permeability but
with high moisture
vapour permeability,
dependent on the
fibre used.
For tropical clothing
the fabrics should be
made of open weave
to allow air
permeability and to
absorbent with high
evaporation ability.
Also the air between
the body and the
layers of clothing
should be kept
circulating. Open
necks and sleeves,
shirts at the hips, not
belted or tucked in
enables the air
currents to pass
through the garment.
Conversely, to
provide extra warmth
in the same garment,
the collar can be
buttoned closely at
the neck, the sleeve
cuffs fastened round
wrist and the waist
belted tightly, which
stops the air currents
and creates a still air
insulation round the
body, providing as
much extra warmth
as putting on a
additional lightweight
garment.
Softness is a quality
650
Word Category Short description Description
generally associated
with comfort.
PHYSIOLOGICAL
DISCOMFORTS OF
GARMENTS
garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
Sensorial discomfort,
Thermophysiological
discomfort, Garment
Fitting discomfort
The qualities that are
generally associated
with physiological
discomforts of
garments are:
Sensorial discomfort:
What the garment
feels like when worn
next to skin; allergy,
tickle, prickle, initial
cold feel of fabric,
abrasion of skin,
loose fibres are shed,
wet fabric clings to
the skin, etc.
Thermophysiological
discomfort: Whether
the garment feel too
warm, or too cold,
and it transport sweat
away from skin, etc.
Garment Fitting
discomfort: Whether
the garment is tight fit
overall, or tight fit at
local areas, etc.
PICK fabrics,
processes,
operations
An individual length
of weft yarn (filling
yarn) or group of
threads
Sometimes called
Shot.
1. An individual length
of weft yarn (filling
yarn) or group of
threads, or
2. The process of
inserting the filling
yarn. See Pick
spacing.
PICK AND PICK fabrics A fabric with
alternating weft
threads, one pick of
one kind or colour
and one pick of
another.
A fabric with
alternating weft
threads, one pick of
one kind or colour
and one pick of
another. See also
Pick at will.
PICK AT WILL apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A loom on which it is
possible to pick more
than once from one
A loom on which it is
possible to pick more
than once from one
651
Word Category Short description Description
side or single picks
from different sides.
side or single picks
from different sides.
PICK BAR defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. A bar in
which the pick
spacing is different
from that in the
normal fabric.
PICK COUNT fabrics In woven fabrics, the
number of weft yarns
per inch of fabric.
1. In woven fabrics,
the number of weft
yarns per inch of
fabric.
2. In braided rope, the
number of strands
rotating in one
direction in one cycle
length divided by the
cycle length
PICK COUNTER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Counting glass. See Counting glass.
PICK DENSITY fabrics The number of picks
per unit length of
fabric.
The number of picks
per unit length of
fabric. The number of
weft yarns (picks) per
unit distance as
counted while the
fabric is held under
zero tension, and is
free of folds and
wrinkles. See Pick
spacing.
PICK GLASSS apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Counting glass. See Counting glass.
PICK OUT processes,
operations
Determination of the
weave in a fabric by
noting how each
yarn interlace with
every other yarn in
one repeat of the
pattern
Determination of the
weave in a fabric by
noting how each yarn
interlace with every
other yarn in one
repeat of the pattern
PICK SPACING fabrics The distance
between two picks in
a woven fabric.
The distance between
two picks in a woven
fabric.
PICK STITCH general A hand stitch A hand stitch made
by passing the needle
straight through the
652
Word Category Short description Description
material at right
angles to the surface
alternately from one
side to the other.
PICK-FOUND fabrics Term describes a
fabric, that contains
no missed or broken
picks.
Term describes a
fabric, that contains
no missed or broken
picks.
PICK-OUT MARK defects Also called Rip-out.
Fabric defect.
Also called Rip-out.
Fabric defect. A
weftwise band or bar
characterised by a
chafed or fuzzy
appearance due to
the pulling out of the
original picks.
PICK-OUT PLACE defects See Temple mark. See Temple mark.
PICK-UP general See Add-on. See Add-on.
PICKAGE fabrics The number of picks
(weft threads) per
inch.
The number of picks
(weft threads) per
inch.
PICKER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The part of the
picking mechanism
of the loom that
actually strikes the
shuttle.
The part of the
picking mechanism of
the loom that actually
strikes the shuttle.
PICKING processes,
operations
The action of weft
insertion.
The action of weft
insertion. Passing the
weft thread.
PICKING-OUT processes,
operations
See Unweaving. See Unweaving.
PICOLAY fabrics Compact cotton
fabric with a plain
weave, embossed
with a diamond
pattern to resemble
diamond piqu
Compact cotton fabric
with a plain weave,
embossed with a
diamond pattern to
resemble diamond
piqu. Used for
childrens clothes,
tablecloths.
PICOT fabrics A purl on lace or a
small loop woven on
edge of ribbon.
1. A purl on lace or a
small loop woven on
edge of ribbon. A
hem-stitching
machine may also
make a picot edge.
2. Loops forming run-
resistance in the top
653
Word Category Short description Description
of hosiery.
PICOTAGE fabrics,
processes,
operations
A speckled effect on
the surface of a pile
fabric
1. A speckled effect
on the surface of a
pile fabric owing to
differential light
reflection from
deformed tips of tufts.
2.See Pinning
PIECE fabrics Also called Bolt. Also called Bolt. A
length of fabric, of
customarily accepted
unit length.
PIECE GOODS fabrics Any fabric that has
been made up for
sale
Any fabric that has
been made up for
sale, usually used in
reference to that sold
by the yard or metre
in retail stores.
PIECE-DYEING processes,
operations
The woven fabric is
dyed a solid colour
by complete
immersion,
The woven fabric is
dyed a solid colour by
complete immersion,
contrasted with yarn
dyeing or raw stock
dyeing.
PIECE-RATE general A method of
payment of
employees by pricing
the task that they are
required to do.
A method of payment
of employees by
pricing the task that
they are required to
do. The more tasks
they complete within
a certain time, the
higher the reward.
PIECING processes,
operations
, defects
Yarn defect. 1. J oining the ends of
a broken yarn. See
also End breaks.
2. Yarn defect. A thick
place in a yarn
caused by poor
splicing
PIGMENT DYES apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A colourant in
particulate form
which is insoluble in
a substrate but
which can be
dispersed in the
substrate to modify
its colour.
A colourant in
particulate form which
is insoluble in a
substrate but which
can be dispersed in
the substrate to
modify its colour. In
admixture with a
654
Word Category Short description Description
suitable resin binder
they are applied on
the majority of textile
fabrics.
Pigment colours are
not soluble, cannot
penetrate fibre
surfaces, and
therefore must be
attached to the
surface of the fabric
by a binder. A
polymeric resin
serves as a binder.
When the resin is
cured or permanently
fixed to the fabric, the
dye is also fixed on
the fabric surface.
The colour fastness
of pigment colours is
dependent on the
durability of the
binder, not pigment.
These colours, unlike
dyestuffs which stain
the fibre of the cloth,
are generally only a
surface colouration,
i.e. they coat the
outside of each warp
and weft thread with
which they get in
contact. Pigment
dyes (+binder) are:
suitable for cotton,
linen, wool, silk,
viscose rayon,
cuprammonium
rayon, cellulose
acetate, cellulose
triacetate, polyamide,
polyester, acrylic, and
fibre glass fibres
suitable for
elastomeric fibres, but
lacks fastness.
PIGMENT PRINTING processes,
operations
Printing an insoluble
colouring material on
Printing an insoluble
colouring material on
655
Word Category Short description Description
cloth. cloth. The colour,
which has no affinity
for the fibre, is fixed
to the cloth by a
binding adhesive
resin that has affinity
for both the pigment
and the cloth.
Methods include
water-in-oil or oil-in-
water or solvent
dispersion.
PIGMENT TAFFETA fabrics The only taffeta
fabric without shine.
The only taffeta fabric
without shine. Dull,
pigmented yarns,
lacking lustre are
used. See Taffeta.
PIGMENTED fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Delustered. See Delustered.
PIGSKIN fabrics This skin is easily
recognised by the
little holes or pores
where once the
bristles of the pig
grew.
This skin is easily
recognised by the
little holes or pores
where once the
bristles of the pig
grew. Very
hardwearing. Used
for gloves, coats,
belts, and handbags.
PILATE processes,
operations
A term sometimes
used in place of pile
lifting.
A term sometimes
used in place of pile
lifting. See Pile lifting.
PILE fabrics The loops or tufts
(cut loops) that stand
up from the body of
the fabric and which
form all or part of the
surface
The loops or tufts (cut
loops) that stand up
from the body of the
fabric and which form
all or part of the
surface; the surface
texture composed of
many tuft legs bound
to a backing fabric in
an orderly repetitive
array.
PILE FABRIC fabrics Any fabric of any
fibre that has raised
surface of individual
fibres, making a furry
surface.
Any fabric of any fibre
that has raised
surface of individual
fibres, making a furry
surface. Pile may be
656
Word Category Short description Description
uncut in manufacture,
e.g. terry towelling, or
cut, e.g. velour. The
direction of the pile on
the cloth may be felt
or it can sometimes
be observed by
holding the length of
cloth vertically. Where
the pile is running
upwards, the cloth will
look a different shade
from where it is
running downwards.
PILE FLOOR COVERING garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
A pile fabric intended
for use as a floor
covering.
A pile fabric intended
for use as a floor
covering. The pile
may be in the form of
cut loops or loops or
both. Both the cut
loops and the loops
may vary in height
PILE KNIT fabrics Any fabric with a
knitted construction
as the base and a
looped or cut pile on
the surface.
Any fabric with a
knitted construction
as the base and a
looped or cut pile on
the surface.
Examples are Stretch
towelling, J ersey
velour.
PILE LAY garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
In floor covering, the
direction in which
most of the pile
fibres lean in the
original, uncrushed
carpet.
In floor covering, the
direction in which
most of the pile fibres
lean in the original,
uncrushed carpet.
PILE RETENTION fabrics The degree to which
cut-pile yarns are
held secure and
intact during wear.
The degree to which
cut-pile yarns are
held secure and intact
during wear.
PILE REVERSAL fabrics A persistent change
in the direction of
pile lay in certain
areas, so that a
difference of shade
is observed.
A persistent change
in the direction of pile
lay in certain areas,
so that a difference of
shade is observed.
See also Shading and
Water mark.
PILE RUCHE accessorie See under Ruche. See under Ruche.
657
Word Category Short description Description
s
PILE WARP fabrics Warp which is
looped up with wires
for making the
surface of plush or
raised fabrics.
Warp which is looped
up with wires for
making the surface of
plush or raised
fabrics.
PILE WEAVE fabrics By the use of either
extra warps or extra
wefts, loops are
formed on the
surface of the fabric.
By the use of either
extra warps or extra
wefts, loops are
formed on the surface
of the fabric. The
loops are either cut or
left uncut. Many
corduroy, velvet,
velveteen, rugs, and
terry cloth are woven
by pile method.
PILE WEFT fabrics The weft which is
woven into
velveteens and
similar fabrics for the
purpose of being cut
to form a surface pile
The weft which is
woven into
velveteens and
similar fabrics for the
purpose of being cut
to form a surface pile
PILE YARN FLOOR
COVERING
garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
A textile product in
which yarn or yarn
segments are
attached
intermittently to a
backing fabric so as
to project above the
backing fabric to
form a pile
A textile product in
which yarn or yarn
segments are
attached intermittently
to a backing fabric so
as to project above
the backing fabric to
form a pile; the yarn
entering the backing
fabric substantially
perpendicular to the
plane of the backing
fabric.
PILE, IN CARPET garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
That part of a carpet
consisting of textile
yarns or fibres, cut or
looped, projecting
from the substrate
and acting as use-
surface.
That part of a carpet
consisting of textile
yarns or fibres, cut or
looped, projecting
from the substrate
and acting as use-
surface.
Carved pile: The pile
of a carpet that is
subjected after
manufacture to a
shearing operation
658
Word Category Short description Description
with the object of
creating different
levels of pile, often on
the periphery of
certain elements of
design formed by the
pile.
Curled pile: The pile
of a carpet, in which
curl has been induced
by over-twist or by
other means.
Cut Pile: The pile of a
carpet consisting of
legs of tufts or
individual fibres.
Cut-Loop pile: The
pile of a carpet,
formed during
manufacture by loops
and tufts of different
lengths or of the
same length.
Loop pile: The pile of
a carpet consisting of
loops. Also called
Uncut Pile.
Sculptured pile: A pile
in which a pattern is
created by having
areas of different
lengths of pile and/or
by omitting pile in
certain places.
Textured pile: A pile
in which the surface
character is varied,
e.g. by having areas
of different
characteristics or by
combinations of
different yarn or pile
yarns, e.g. soft and
hard twist.
Tip-sheared pile: The
pile of a carpet,
originally consisting of
loops of different
lengths, which has
659
Word Category Short description Description
been subjected after
manufacture to a
shearing process to
cut the tips of the
longer pile loops.
PILL defects See Pilling See Pilling
PILLAR LACE fabrics Lace in which two or
more threads from
warp, beam, or
spool, encircled and
bound by one bobbin
thread.
Lace in which two or
more threads from
warp, beam, or spool,
encircled and bound
by one bobbin thread.
PILLAR STITCH fabrics In warp-knitted
materials, a single
unconnected
continuous column
of knitted loops
In warp-knitted
materials, a single
unconnected
continuous column of
knitted loops, formed
by knitting
consecutive loops on
the same needle from
the same yarn to give
a continuous chain of
loops entirely
separate and
disconnected.
PILLING defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. The
formation of small
nodules or balls of
compacted loose fibre
(pills) on the surface
of a fabric due to
wear. Such pills result
from abrasion of the
fabric. Their severity
is measured by
density on the
surface, but they may
vary in relative
strength of
attachment, in size
and in colour. In the
latter, the pills may
accumulate fibres
from external
sources. With woollen
knitwear, the pills
usually brush off
during wear, but with
660
Word Category Short description Description
synthetic fibre
materials they cling.
The tendency to
pilling can be reduced
by the use of different
yarn and cloth
structure, by singeing
or shearing fibre ends
on the cloth surface.
Chemical and other
preventive methods
also have been
developed.
PILLING RESISTANCE fabrics Resistance to the
formation of pills on
a textile fabric.
Resistance to the
formation of pills on a
textile fabric.
PILLOW CASE garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
A removable textile
covering that is
produced or
fabricated in a tube
usually closed on
one end which is
used to encase a
bed pillow
A removable textile
covering that is
produced or
fabricated in a tube
usually closed on one
end which is used to
encase a bed pillow
PILLOW LACE fabrics See Bobbin lace. See Bobbin lace.
PILLOW LINEN fabrics Very smooth, high
count, plain-weave,
bleached linen
fabric.
Very smooth, high
count, plain-weave,
bleached linen fabric.
May be cotton
finished to resemble
linen. Easily
laundered, sheds dirt,
cool hand and
durable.
PILLOW TUBING fabrics A cotton double cloth
stitched together
only at the
selvedges, to form a
tubular fabric.
A cotton double cloth
stitched together only
at the selvedges, to
form a tubular fabric.
Woven double in the
form of a tube, using
a plain weave. Used
for pillow cases.
PILLS defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect.
Bunches or balls of
tangled fibres which
are held to the
surface of a fabric by
one or more fibres.
661
Word Category Short description Description
(Compare Fuzz ball.)
PILOT fabrics A woollen fabric,
generally made in
navy blue and used
for seamens coarse.
A woollen fabric,
generally made in
navy blue and used
for seamens coarse.
It is usually 2/2 twill
weave, heavily milled,
with a raised brush
finish.
PIMA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
pima cottons are
often loosely used in
the trade as a term
for any long-staple
cotton.
A cotton variety which
produces extra long
staple fibre, but now,
pima cottons are
often loosely used in
the trade as a term
for any long-staple
cotton.
PIN CHECK fabrics Worsted suiting
fabric made with
different coloured
yarns, which
produce a figured
effect the size of a
pinhead, and give
the appearance of a
fine check.
Worsted suiting fabric
made with different
coloured yarns, which
produce a figured
effect the size of a
pinhead, and give the
appearance of a fine
check. A cheaper
imitation is made from
viscose but this not
hardwearing. Uses
worsted type for
mens suits, womens
skirts. A sturdy cotton
cloth in pincheck
design is used for
mens work clothing.
PIN DOT fabrics A small dot
approximately the
size of the head of a
pin
A small dot
approximately the
size of the head of a
pin; may be woven or
printed on sheer
fabrics.
PIN LOCK SLIDER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In zippers, a slider
that incorporates a
projection on the pull
In zippers, a slider
that incorporates a
projection on the pull
that fits between
adjacent interlocking
elements of a zipper
when a pin lock slider
is in the locked
662
Word Category Short description Description
position.
PIN MARK fabrics A series of holes
near the edge
parallel with the
lengthwise direction
of a fabric
A series of holes near
the edge parallel with
the lengthwise
direction of a fabric
caused by the holding
device on a pin tenter
frame. See also Clip
mark.
PIN STRIPE fabrics Name given to any
fabric with very fine
pin-width stripes.
Name given to any
fabric with very fine
pin-width stripes.
Usually associated
with mens worsted
suiting.
PIN TUCK garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
A small sewn pleat. A small sewn pleat.
PIN TWISTING processes,
operations
The generation of
false-twist by a
device in which a
yarn is wrapped
around a small pin or
peg of wear-resistant
material (usually,
sapphire or ceramic)
The generation of
false-twist by a device
in which a yarn is
wrapped around a
small pin or peg of
wear-resistant
material (usually,
sapphire or ceramic)
mounted across a
rotating tube through
which the yarn
passes. One rotation
of the tube generates
one turn of twist. See
also Friction twisting.
PIN-DRAFTING processes,
operations
A system of drafting
in which the fibres
are oriented relative
to one another in the
sliver and are
controlled by pins.
A system of drafting
in which the fibres are
oriented relative to
one another in the
sliver and are
controlled by pins.
Any system of
drafting, e.g. gilling,
in which the
movement of the
fibres relative to one
another in a sliver is
controlled by pins.
PIA-CLOTH fabrics Fine plain-woven Fine plain-woven
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Word Category Short description Description
translucent lustrous
fabric
translucent lustrous
fabric made of yarns
produced from fibres
of the leaves of the
pineapple tree. Is a
stiff, wiry fabric and
makes a good base
for embroidery.
PINCORD fabrics Very fine needlecord
fabric.
Very fine needlecord
fabric. See under
Corduroy.
PINEAPPLE CONE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A low angled yarn
package in which the
traverse length
decreases as the
diameter increases.
A low angled yarn
package in which the
traverse length
decreases as the
diameter increases. It
is used mainly for
continuous filament
yarns in order to
produce a more
stable package.
PINEAPPLE FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A fibre from the leaf
of the plant ananas
cosmosus, capable
of being processed
into fine fabrics.
A fibre from the leaf
of the plant ananas
cosmosus, capable
of being processed
into fine fabrics. The
fibres are fine, white,
lustrous, and strong.
PINEAPPLE STITCH general A knitting stitch
which produces an
oval pattern.
A knitting stitch which
produces an oval
pattern.
PINHOLE defects Fabric defect in
woven fabric. A very
small hole,
approximately the
size of the cross
section of a pin.
1.Fabric defect in
woven fabric. A very
small hole,
approximately the
size of the cross
section of a pin.
Pinholes along
selvage are caused
usually by the pins
holding the fabric
while processing
through tenter/stenter
frame. Major or minor
depending on how far
the pin holes extend
into the body of the
fabric.
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Word Category Short description Description
2. Fabric defect in
hosiery. Also called
Cat eye, Cross stitch,
Duck eye, Fish eye,
Snag, Spread stitch.
Very small holes in
hosiery.
PINKED SEAM-FINISH general A finish for the raw
edges of the seam
allowances of a plain
seam, which
produces a
zigzagged cut raw
edge.
A finish for the raw
edges of the seam
allowances of a plain
seam, which
produces a zigzagged
cut raw edge. A
pinked seam-finish is
made by trimming,
with pinking shears,
close to the raw seam
allowance edge.
(Compare Stitched
and pinked seam
finish.)
PINKING fabrics Gimping or serrating
an edge in the form
of V-shaped cuts by
a machine or
handshears normally
having a serrated
blade.
Gimping or serrating
an edge in the form of
V-shaped cuts by a
machine or
handshears normally
having a serrated
blade. The operation
is undertaken
primarily to prevent
fraying and achieves
a decorative raw
edge.
PINNING processes,
operations
An old style of textile
printing, known in
French as Picotage.
An old style of textile
printing, known in
French as Picotage.
A series of brass pins
are driven into the
surface of the block
which is then used to
produce a pattern,
either as a
background or as
shadowy shapes of
such things as leaves
PINSONIC QUILTING processes,
operations
A method of quilting
fabrics without
thread using
A method of quilting
fabrics without thread
using ultrasonic
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Word Category Short description Description
ultrasonic sound. sound. The face,
batting and backing
are thermally welded
when they pass
between a pattern roll
and the ultrasonic
heads.
PINWALE fabrics A very narrow pile or
rib in a fabric (from
16 to 23 wales to the
inch)
A very narrow pile or
rib in a fabric (from 16
to 23 wales to the
inch); e.g. pinwale
corduroy.
PINWORK processes,
operations
Fine raised stitches
in needlepoint lace,
Fine raised stitches in
needlepoint lace,
which produce an
effect of lightness.
PIPING accessorie
s
A narrow fabric or
cord used to finish
raw edges on
material
A narrow fabric or
cord used to finish
raw edges on
material or for
decorative purposes
in finishing by
dressmakers.
PIQU fabrics WARP KNITTED. A
fabric, normally
made with two guide
bars, that shows
pronounced cord
effects in the warp
direction.
1. WARP KNITTED.
A fabric, normally
made with two guide
bars, that shows
pronounced cord
effects in the warp
direction. The
portions between the
cords are made by
omitting one or more
threads from the
guide bar that is
making the small
underlap.
2. WEFT KNITTED.
See Single piqu,
Double piqu, and
Texi piqu.
3. WOVEN. A fabric
showing rounded
cords in the weft
direction, with
pronounced sunken
lines between them
that are produced by
666
Word Category Short description Description
the nature of the
weave. The weave on
the face of the cords
is plain. There are
warp floats the width
of the cords in the
back. Wadding picks
are used to
accentuate the
prominence of the
cords. When the
cords are in straight
lines across the
fabric, the structure is
known as welt and
when they create
waved lines it is
known also as waffle
piqu or Marcella.
The term piqu is
also applied to a
much less expensive
white fabric made in a
lightweight Bedford
cord.
PIQUETTE fabrics Weft-knitted fabric. Weft-knitted fabric. A
non-jacquard double-
jersey fabric made on
an interlock basis
consisting of a
selection of knitted
and float loops.
PIRN apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Also called Quill. Also called Quill. A
weft package which is
inserted into a shuttle
of a loom. Weft yarn
is wound on pirn,
using a pirn winder
PIRN WINDING processes,
operations
The winding of yarns
on pirns (quills).
The winding of yarns
on pirns (quills).
PITCH fabrics,
garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
In weaving, the
distance between
two yarns or other
components.
1. In weaving, the
distance between two
yarns or other
components.
2. The up and down
movement of a
shuttle during transit
across the loom.
667
Word Category Short description Description
3. The balanced
insertion of the sleeve
into the garment
controlled by balance
marks in the scye
line.
PITCH PINS apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Pitches. See Pitches.
PITCHES apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In printing, fine metal
pins driven into the
corners of a printing
block for the purpose
of establishing the
correct repeat.
In printing, fine metal
pins driven into the
corners of a printing
block for the purpose
of establishing the
correct repeat. Same
as Pitch pins.
PITCHING processes,
operations
In engraved roller
printing, ensuring the
correct repeat, by
putting each roller in
correct position while
the machine is
running slowly
In engraved roller
printing, ensuring the
correct repeat, by
putting each roller in
correct position while
the machine is
running slowly. Also
known as registering
or putting in register.
PLACKET garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
An opening provided
in a garment to
facilitate removal by
the wearer, or an
extra piece of fabric
applied to that
opening for
reinforcement or as
a style feature.
An opening provided
in a garment to
facilitate removal by
the wearer, or an
extra piece of fabric
applied to that
opening for
reinforcement or as a
style feature. The
placket may
incorporate
fastenings.
PLAID fabrics The word plaid was
originally used by for
the Scottish tartan
worn by Highland
women.
The word plaid was
originally used by for
the Scottish tartan
worn by Highland
women. Patterns of
different coloured
bars crossing each
other to form varied
squares or
rectangles. Usually
the pattern is woven
668
Word Category Short description Description
from dyed yarns, but
it also may be printed
PLAID BACK fabrics A light, medium or
heavy material for
over-coatng made
on the double-cloth
principle; two
systems of warp and
weft, with a binder
warp or weft
arrangement.
A light, medium or
heavy material for
over-coatng made on
the double-cloth
principle; two systems
of warp and weft, with
a binder warp or weft
arrangement. The
underside of the cloth
is a plaid; a series of
cross stripes that
form a dull or vivid
effect. Weight,
warmth, and the
covering up of the
interlacings are
features of the
material. Plaid backs
take the place of
linings in some cloths
used for coating
material.
PLAIN BACK fabrics A twill-face plain
weave back
structure made from
single worsted yarns.
A twill-face plain
weave back structure
made from single
worsted yarns.
PLAIN BRAID accessorie
s
Also called Diamond
braid.
Also called Diamond
braid. In rope, a
braided construction
in which one strand of
one direction of
rotation about the
axis of the rope
passes over one
strand of the opposite
direction.
PLAIN EDGE garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
Finished edge of a
garment that shows
no stitching on the
surface.
Finished edge of a
garment that shows
no stitching on the
surface. A blind or
filling stitch is used.
PLAIN FABRIC, WEFT-
KNITTED
fabrics A fabric in which all
the component
knitted loops are of
the same sort and
meshed in the same
A fabric in which all
the component
knitted loops are of
the same sort and
meshed in the same
669
Word Category Short description Description
manner. manner. The fabric
may also be
described as plain,
single jersey, web, or
stockinette.
The appearance may
be described with
reference to the
surface of the
structure.
1. FACE OR
TECHNICAL FACE:
The surface of a plain
weft-knitted fabric that
consists wholly of the
face loops.
2. BACK OR
TECHNICAL BACK:
The surface of a plain
weft-knitted fabric that
consists wholly of
back loops.
3. EFFECT SIDE:
The surface of the
fabric intended to be
used outermost on a
garment or other
construction.
4. REVERSE SIDE:
The surface opposite
to the effect side
PLAIN FINISH
PLAIN FINISH
fabrics A cotton fabric that
has not been
mercerised.
A cotton fabric that
has not been
mercerised.
PLAIN GOODS fabrics Standard
construction, plain
weave grey goods.
Standard
construction, plain
weave grey goods.
PLAIN KNIT fabrics Synonym for flat knit
fabric.
Synonym for flat knit
fabric. See Flat knit
PLAIN LOOM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A loom which
operates with a cam
motion, rather than a
dobby or J acquard
mechanism, to
create the weave
A loom which
operates with a cam
motion, rather than a
dobby or J acquard
mechanism, to create
the weave. It is
capable of weaving a
plain weave or a
simple twill
670
Word Category Short description Description
PLAIN LOOP fabrics See Face loop under
Knitted loop.
See Face loop under
Knitted loop.
PLAIN NET fabrics A twist lace fabric
made with equal
numbers of warp and
bobbin threads
A twist lace fabric
made with equal
numbers of warp and
bobbin threads. The
warp threads run
lengthwise in the
fabric. The bobbin
threads twist round
the warp threads and
traverse diagonally in
the fabric. Equal
numbers of bobbin
threads are always
traversing in opposite
directions. A fine plain
net made from silk is
sometimes called as
Tulle.
PLAIN NET MACHINE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See under Lace
machines.
See under Lace
machines.
PLAIN SEAM general A seam formed by a
single joining line
A seam formed by a
single joining line. A
plain seam joins two
or more layers of
fabric; multiple layers
of fabric may be
treated as a single
layer. Raw edges of
the seam allowance
in a plain seam may
or may not have a
finish applied.
PLAIN SELVEDGE fabrics Plain selvedges are
woven with extra
warp ends for
additional strength
and in the same
weave as the body
of cloth
Plain selvedges are
woven with extra
warp ends for
additional strength
and in the same
weave as the body of
cloth. This selvedge
is also defined as
wire selvedge.
PLAIN STITCH general A knitting stitch
which produces a
series of wales or
lengthwise ribs on
A knitting stitch which
produces a series of
wales or lengthwise
ribs on the face of the
671
Word Category Short description Description
the face of the fabric
and courses, or
cross-wise loops, on
the back
fabric and courses, or
cross-wise loops, on
the back, all the loops
are drawn through
others to the same
side of the fabric.
PLAIN WEAVE fabrics Also called Tabby.
One of the three
basic types of
weave, the other two
being Twill, and
Satin. Plain weave is
the simplest of all
weave interlacings.
Also called Tabby.
One of the three
basic types of weave,
the other two being
Twill, and Satin. Plain
weave is the simplest
of all weave
interlacings.
A fabric pattern in
which each yarn of
the weft passes
alternately over and
under a yarn of warp
and each yarn of the
warp passes
alternately over and
under a yarn of the
weft. A weave in
which half the ends
pass over one pick
and the other half
pass under, then the
action is reversed on
the next pick. The
adjacent ends and
picks interlace
differently.
This very simple
interlacing system
cannot be widely
varied and most of
the variety in plain
weave fabrics is
produced by using
different thickness,
textures, and varying
closeness of warp
and weft yarns.

Plain weave
Quite a few of the
basic fabrics are plain
weave fabrics but
672
Word Category Short description Description
they are individually
different in
appearance and
texture. If colour is
combined with the
interlacings by the
use of differently
coloured warp and
weft yarns textural
interest can be
increased and a
visual effect produced
which does not
resemble either the
weave itself or the
order of colouring.
In the three diagrams
A, B, and C, below,
show how the
appearance of a plain
weave fabric can be
changed by the use
of colour.
In diagram A the
plain weave has been
coloured black in
warp and white in the
weft. The plain
interlacing mixes
these colours evenly
and would give a grey
colour from a
distance which would
become coarser in
grain as the eye
began to perceive the
actual interlacings.
When two colours are
used in this way the
combination of them
appears to vary as
the fabric is moved or
draped because of
different direction of
warp and weft. When
lustrous coloured
yarns are used in this
way a shimmering
variable effect is seen
673
Word Category Short description Description
known as shot
effect.
In diagram B the dark
and light colours are
still evenly divided
between warp and
weft but they are now
used in alternate
yarns in warp and
weft. This is seen to
produce fine vertical
hairline stripes of
colour and the weave
interlacings cannot be
perceived as a
separate factor and
no horizontal colour
effect is seen even
though the weft yarns
are coloured
alternately dark and
light.

In diagram C the
same two colours are
used in warp and weft
in the same
proportions but now
in pairs. This creates
a totally different
colour effect in the
form of a small neat
check which again
dominates the weave
and gives no
indication of the order
of colouring.
Rib weave: It is a
plain weave variation.

2/2 RIB
The rib weave
produces regular
horizontal lines
across the fabric. In
this the 1 and 1 plain
interlacing has been
increased to 2 in warp
direction.
674
Word Category Short description Description
Cord weave: This is a
plain weave variation.

2/2 CORD
The cord weave
produces lines down
the fabric. In this the
1 and 1 plain
interlacing has been
increased to 2 in weft
direction.
Hopsack weave: It is
a plain weave
variation.


2/2 HOPSACK
The hopsack weave
is simply a plain
weave doubled; i.e.
the yarns interlace in
pairs. This gives a
coarser grain of
appearance than
plain weave but a
softer fabric, because
the interlacings are
not as tight as plain
weave. In this the 1
and 1 plain interlacing
has been increased
to 2 and 2 in both
directions
PLAIN WEFT KNITTED
FABRIC
fabrics The simplest
construction of weft
knitting in which the
loops are all of one
sort, open loops, and
are all intermeshed
in the same manner
The simplest
construction of weft
knitting in which the
loops are all of one
sort, open loops, and
are all intermeshed in
the same manner
PLAIT garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
The intersection of
the strands of a
braid.
1. The intersection of
the strands of a braid.
2. See Braid
PLAITED ROPE garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
Also called Eight-
strand rope.
Also called Eight-
strand rope. Rope
made from eight
strands arranged in
675
Word Category Short description Description
four pairs in which
one strand is placed
adjacent to a second
in each pair and in
which each strand of
each pair has been
twisted in one
direction while each
strand in each
alternate pair has
been twisted in the
opposite direction and
the four pairs of
strands are
intertwined by
maypole fashion in a
manner such that
each pair of strands
passes over and
under adjacent pair of
strands. See also
Rope.
PLAITED STITCH general A herringbone effect
produced in
needlework
A herringbone effect
produced in
needlework
PLANKING processes,
operations
In hat manufacture,
acid milling of settled
forms by the
combined action of
hot sulphuric acid
and mechanical
treatment to produce
a cone-shaped felt
known as a hood or
body.
In hat manufacture,
acid milling of settled
forms by the
combined action of
hot sulphuric acid and
mechanical treatment
to produce a cone-
shaped felt known as
a hood or body.
Sometimes called
Bumping.
PLANTAIN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The textile fibre
derived from Musa
sapientum, also
known as banana
fibre.
1. The textile fibre
derived from Musa
sapientum, also
known as banana
fibre.
2. A strong, bast fibre
obtained from the
plane tree Platanus
orientalis. Used for
cordage and mats
PLANTED COLOURS processes,
operations
Spacing spools of
surface yarns, in
Spacing spools of
surface yarns, in
676
Word Category Short description Description
different colours, at
the back of the
J acquard loom.
different colours, at
the back of the
J acquard loom. The
object is to show
more colours in the
design than would
normally show on the
carpets surface.
PLANTING processes,
operations
A process in
weaving fabrics in
which the pattern is
developed by extra
warp threads.
A process in weaving
fabrics in which the
pattern is developed
by extra warp
threads. A large
number of warp
colours are
introduced into the
fabric by replacing
one colour with
another at intervals.
PLASTIC general,
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Something that can
be shaped, extended
or moulded.
Something that can
be shaped, extended
or moulded. Plastics
are of two types: (a)
thermoplastics these
can be remoulded by
heat after formation.
The thermoplastic
resins can be formed
into fibres and then
fabricated into textile
cloths. (b)
thermosetting these
type forms cross links
in the final shape and
cannot be remelted.
2. Generic term for
substances man-
made from various
chemicals.
3. See also PVC
PLASTIC FILM fabrics Flexible, drapeable
material in thin
gauges.
Flexible, drapeable
material in thin
gauges. It may be
polyvinyl chloride,
polyethylene,
polyvinylidene
choride, polystyrene
or polypropylene
677
Word Category Short description Description
among others.
Thicker gauges, more
than 10 units, are
referred to as
sheeting.
PLASTIC GOODS fabrics Materials made from
resins in sheet form,
not woven, that may
be used for shower
curtains, draperies,
umbrellas and the
like.
Materials made from
resins in sheet form,
not woven, that may
be used for shower
curtains, draperies,
umbrellas and the
like. They may be
transparent, printed,
or dyed in solution.
When plastic film is
supported by cloth, it
is classified as a
textile.
PLASTICIZE processes,
operations
The softening of a
synthetic material or
polymer usually by
the addition of a
lubricant.
The softening of a
synthetic material or
polymer usually by
the addition of a
lubricant.
PLATED FABRIC fabrics A fabric knitted from
two yarns of different
properties, both of
which are used in
the same loop whilst
positioned one
behind the other.
A fabric knitted from
two yarns of different
properties, both of
which are used in the
same loop whilst
positioned one behind
the other. The special
feature of the fabric is
that each loop
exhibits the
characteristics of one
yarn on the face side
and the
characteristics of the
other yarn on the
reverse side. In plain
weft-knitted fabrics,
where the loops are
all formed in the
same direction, the
characteristics of one
yarn are visible on the
surface composed of
the face loops whilst
the characteristics of
678
Word Category Short description Description
the other are only
visible on the reverse
surface composed of
back loops. Types of
plated fabric are:
Cross-plated fabric:
An arrangement of a
plated face stitch
(knitted on one set of
needles) and of an
adjacent plated
reverse stitch (knitted
in the same course
on the other set of
needles) the relative
positions of the face
yarn and the back
yarn in the face stitch
being interchanged in
the reverse stitch.
Float-plated fabric:
The knitting of a
plated fabric in which
the face yarn is mis-
knitted by certain
needles to allow the
other yarn to appear
in the face.
Reverse-plated fabric:
A plated knit
construction in which
the relationship of the
two yarns is reversed
in certain stitches
within the same
course to give a
patterned or fancy
effect.
Sandwich-plated
fabric: A plated
construction usually
knitted on one set of
needles in which the
ground yarn is
positioned
(sandwiched) within
the structure so that it
is not visible from
either the face or the
679
Word Category Short description Description
reverse side of the
fabric.
Embroidery-plated
fabric: The
superimposing of one
or more additional
ends of yarn over a
restricted but variable
width of weft-knitted
fabric, so that the
loops formed by the
additional yarns
appear on the face of
the fabric. Panel
wrap and wrap
stripe are examples
of embroidery plating
produced in this way.
PLATING processes,
operations
The action of
producing plated
fabric.
The action of
producing plated
fabric.
PLEAT garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
Three layers of fabric
involving two folds or
reversals of
direction; the back
fold may be replaced
by a seam.
Three layers of fabric
involving two folds or
reversals of direction;
the back fold may be
replaced by a seam.
Material folds
introduced to allow for
expansion or to
provide style features.
Pleats may be either
pressed to give sharp
creases or left
unpressed to give soft
folds
PLEATED FABRIC, WARP-
KNITTED
fabrics A fabric produced
from two or three
guide bars in which
the front warp is
stopped while the
front bar mis-laps.
A fabric produced
from two or three
guide bars in which
the front warp is
stopped while the
front bar mis-laps.
The fabric produced
by the back bar (or
back and middle
bars) while the front
bar mis-laps is raised
out of the plane of the
fabric in the form of a
680
Word Category Short description Description
pleat extending
across the complete
width. All bars are
full-set threaded.
PLEATING processes,
operations
The process of
making one or more
desirable folds in a
cloth by doubling the
material over on
itself.
The process of
making one or more
desirable folds in a
cloth by doubling the
material over on itself.
PLIED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Folded
yarn and Formed
yarn.
Also called Folded
yarn and Formed
yarn. A yarn formed
by twisting together
two or more single
yarns in one
operation. See also
Cord.
PLIED YARN DUCK fabrics Duck fabric with
plied yarns in warp
and weft; army,
numbered, and
special use ducks.
Duck fabric with plied
yarns in warp and
weft; army,
numbered, and
special use ducks.
See also Duck
PLISS fabrics Originally a term
describing a fabric
woven in a special
weave, which
produced pleats or
folds in the fabric.
Originally a term
describing a fabric
woven in a special
weave, which
produced pleats or
folds in the fabric.
The term now refers
to a crinkle effect
produced on cotton
fabrics by printing a
stripe or other pattern
in caustic soda paste
which causes
puckering of the
treated parts of the
fabric, or in synthetic
fibres by the use of
differential heat
shrinkage.
Some fabric consists
of alternating wrinkled
and plain stripes,
often in different
colours. Fibre content
681
Word Category Short description Description
is usually polyester
with cotton. Caustic
soda is applied to
specific sections,
causing bubbles to
form in the fabric.
This is a semi-
permanent finish,
which is liable to
lessen with constant
washing and
particularly with
ironing. It is a soft
cool summer fabric
and is used for casual
blouses and skirts,
beachwear and
childrens clothes.
These methods
produce cheaper and
more varied crinkle
effects than traditional
methods such as
seersucker.
Sometimes called
Crinkle crpe.
PLUCKED WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A pulled wool
obtained from a
sheep carcass
several days old.
A pulled wool
obtained from a
sheep carcass
several days old.
Applied in a broader
sense to all pulled
wool.
PLUGGING garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
Fastening decorative
buttons by inserting
a plug through the
eyes of the shanks
on the inside of the
garment
Fastening decorative
buttons by inserting a
plug through the eyes
of the shanks on the
inside of the garment
PLUMAGE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The outgrowth of
fowl, consisting of
feathers and down
(waterfowl) or
feathers only (non-
waterfowl).
The outgrowth of
fowl, consisting of
feathers and down
(waterfowl) or
feathers only (non-
waterfowl).
PLUMULES fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Downy waterfowl
plumage
Downy waterfowl
plumage with
underdeveloped soft
682
Word Category Short description Description
and flaccid quill with
barbs
indistinguishable from
those of down
PLUS X processes,
operations
A patented process
for imparting stretch
to all-wool and wool-
blend cloths.
A patented process
for imparting stretch
to all-wool and wool-
blend cloths. The
process puts a
permanent crimp into
a fabric before it is
dyed and finished.
PLUSH fabrics WOVEN. A pile
fabric, with a longer
and less dense pile
than that of velvet.
1. WOVEN. A pile
fabric, with a longer
and less dense pile
than that of velvet.
The yarns can be
almost any, natural or
synthetic. Many of the
fabrics are now
washable. Made in
various weights for
dresses, curtains,
drapes and
upholstery.
2. WARP-KNITTED.
A fabric in which one
series of threads form
pile loops standing at
approximately 90 to
the fabric plane,
being connected to
the ground
construction by
knitting-in or laying-in.
The pile loop may be
cut or uncut.
3. DOUBLE WARP
KNITTED. A pile
fabric produced on a
double needle-bar
Raschel warp-knitting
machine, by knitting
separate ground
fabrics on each
needle bar and
connecting them by
pile threads which
knit on both needle
683
Word Category Short description Description
bars so that two
fabrics are produced
face to face. The
fabrics are then
separated to produce
two cut pile fabrics.
4 WEFT-KNITTED. A
knitted fabric made
with a looped pile
showing on the
reverse side of some
or all stitches. The
plush loops are
elongated sinker
loops of the yarn lying
at the back of a
plated fabric. It is
sometimes known as
knitted terry
PLY fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics,
processes,
operations
,
accessorie
s
YARN. The
individual yarn in a
plied yarn or in a
cord.
1. YARN. The
individual yarn in a
plied yarn or in a
cord. The number of
plies in a plied yarn or
in a cord is the
number of yarns,
which are twisted
together to form the
plied yarn or the cord.
2. FABRIC. A single
thickness of fabric in
a lay or seam. The
number of plies in an
assembly is the
number of fabric
thickness.
3. See under Tyre
textiles.
4. See Fold.
PLY WEAVE fabrics Any fabric
constructed with
more than one set of
warp and weft yarns
Any fabric
constructed with more
than one set of warp
and weft yarns, e.g.
cotton harness
webbing, and
chinchilla.
POCKET garments,
made-ups,
IN GARMENT. A
bag inserted into or
1. IN GARMENT. A
bag inserted into or
684
Word Category Short description Description
assemblie
s,
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
attached to a
garment, for practical
or decorative use.
attached to a
garment, for practical
or decorative use.
Pockets may have
flaps, jettings or
welts.
2. IN ZIPPERS. The
cavity of an element
designed to receive
the head.
POCKET BAG garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
The part of a pocket
on the interior of a
garment.
The part of a pocket
on the interior of a
garment.
POCKET DRILL fabrics A stout, unbleached
cotton drill used for
pockets
A stout, unbleached
cotton drill used for
pockets
POCKETING SEW-IN accessorie
s
See under Sew-in
woven interfacing.
See under Sew-in
woven interfacing.
POIL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Poile See Poile
POILE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A raw silk yarn made
of eight to ten
singles twisted
together
A raw silk yarn made
of eight to ten singles
twisted together.
Usually silk of inferior
quality is employed.
Used as the core of
tinsel yarn and some
pile and flat silk
fabrics.
POINT general Ornamental stitching
on the back of a
glove.
1. Ornamental
stitching on the back
of a glove.
2. Various stitches
used in hand-made
lace.
POINT BLANKET fabrics See Hudsons bay. See Hudsons bay.
POINT BONDING processes,
operations
A method of making
thermally-bonded
non-woven fabric
A method of making
thermally-bonded
non-woven fabric, in
which heat and
pressure are applied
to specific areas by
the use of embossed
calender rollers so as
to cause local
685
Word Category Short description Description
bonding.
POINT DESPRIT fabrics any lightweight fabric
such as voile that is
decorated with satin
stitched spots.
Usually polyesters
Usually describes net
fabric that has
embroidered spots or
squares on the
surface, but the term
is often used in
relation to any
lightweight fabric
such as voile that is
decorated with satin
stitched spots.
Usually polyesters.
Used for dresses,
wedding gowns, etc.
POINT DRAW processes,
operations
See Angled draft See Angled draft
POINT NET fabrics A net ground made
with the needle, i.e.
needlepoint net
ground.
A net ground made
with the needle, i.e.
needlepoint net
ground.
POINT-LACE fabrics A knitted form of lace
or openwork fabric
A knitted form of lace
or openwork fabric
made on a hand
frame using loop
transfer techniques.
POINT-PAPER DESIGN accessorie
s
The representation
on design paper
(point paper) of the
order of interlacing
the threads in a
woven fabric.
The representation on
design paper (point
paper) of the order of
interlacing the
threads in a woven
fabric.
POIRET TWILL fabrics Named after Poiret,
the French designer.
Named after Poiret,
the French designer.
Is a firm, twilled
worsted material, but
its twill is pronounced,
like gabardine, and
steeply angled. Is not
much used now but is
an excellent tailoring
cloth.
POLISHED COTTON fabrics Plain weave cotton
fabric, often
inexpensive, that has
been calendered to
give it an attractive
Plain weave cotton
fabric, often
inexpensive, that has
been calendered to
give it an attractive
686
Word Category Short description Description
shine. shine. The
calendering does not
survive laundering, so
garments have to be
starched, unless a
resin permanent
finish is added. Many
weights of cotton may
be polished and used
for curtains, loose
covers, dresses, etc
POLISHED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A cotton yarn which
has been treated
with a starch,
gelatine, etc., and
then passed over
rollers or other
devices to smoothen
and make glossy
finishing material.
A cotton yarn which
has been treated with
a starch, gelatine,
etc., and then passed
over rollers or other
devices to smoothen
and make glossy
finishing material.
Twine and sewing
thread also may be
polished.
POLISHING processes,
operations
FABRICS. The
treatment of tanned
skins, or of fabrics,
particularly pile
fabrics, to increase
lustre
1. FABRICS. The
treatment of tanned
skins, or of fabrics,
particularly pile
fabrics, to increase
lustre by mechanical
means, without
compressing the
material.
2. YARNS.
Operations for
conferring on yarns a
relatively high degree
of smoothness of
surface. Application
of a size coating to a
yarn promotes
smoothness of
surface, and in
fibrous yarns helps to
lay protruding fibres
in one direction.
POLKA DOTS fabrics Round dots,
embroidered, printed
or flocked, of any
size forming a
Round dots,
embroidered, printed
or flocked, of any size
forming a surface
687
Word Category Short description Description
surface pattern. pattern. If very large,
they are called Coin
dots.
POLKA GAUZE fabrics A cotton gauze fabric
ornamented by small
spots introduced in
swivel weaving.
A cotton gauze fabric
ornamented by small
spots introduced in
swivel weaving.
POLKA RIB fabrics Also called Full
cardigan rib.
Also called Full
cardigan rib. Knitted,
1x1 rib fabric, every
stitch of which
consists of a held
loop and a tuck loop
POLO CLOTH fabrics Name given to top
quality highly napped
fabric that is made
into sportswear and
polo caps and coats,
jackets, etc., for
spectators.
Name given to top
quality highly napped
fabric that is made
into sportswear and
polo caps and coats,
jackets, etc., for
spectators. Mainly
produced in
expensive-looking
shades of brown.
Made from wool, it
may be woven or
knitted in construction
POLO COLLAR garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
A variation of the
round neck collar on
a jumper
A variation of the
round neck collar on
a jumper, that
extends well up the
neck and is turned
over or doubled on
the outside.
POLYACRYLONITRILE FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibre spun from
polymers or
copolymers of
acrylonitrile.
Fibre spun from
polymers or
copolymers of
acrylonitrile. This is
subdivided into two
classes, depending
upon the proportion of
acrylonitrile in the
polymer; Acrylic and
Modacrylic.
POLYAMIDE FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
manufactured nylon
filament yarn.
Although, chemically
strictly not true,
because other
manufactured fibres
also come under this
688
Word Category Short description Description
heading, polyamide
has come to be
accepted as the word
referring to
manufactured nylon
filament yarn. See
Nylon fibres.
POLYAMIDE NATURAL FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Silk, wool, and other
animal fibres are
examples of natural
fibres consisting of
polymers containing
the repeating group -
CO-NH-.
Silk, wool, and other
animal fibres are
examples of natural
fibres consisting of
polymers containing
the repeating group -
CO-NH-.
POLYAMIDE TREATMENT processes,
operations
An interfacial
polymerisation of
polyamide resin on
the surface of wool
fibres.
An interfacial
polymerisation of
polyamide resin on
the surface of wool
fibres. The treatment
controls shrinkage of
woollens.
POLYCARBAMIDE FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured fibre
composed of
synthetic linear
macromolecules
A manufactured fibre
composed of
synthetic linear
macromolecules
having in the chain
recurring aliphatic
groups joined by
ureylene groups
which together
comprise at least 85
% (by mass) of the
chain. Same as
Polyurea fibre
POLYCHLAL FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Bi-component man-
made polyvinyl
alcohol and polyvinyl
chloride fibre.
Bi-component man-
made polyvinyl
alcohol and polyvinyl
chloride fibre. It is
made by grafting
some vinyl chloride to
the polyvinyl alcohol.
The fibre is emulsion
spun into staple and
tow. Used for
blankets, carpets,
curtains, bedding,
upholstery, formed
fabrics, papermaking,
689
Word Category Short description Description
etc.
POLYCHROMATIC
PRINTINGF
processes,
operations
A process of
squirting dyes on a
continuous width of
cloth.
A process of squirting
dyes on a continuous
width of cloth. The
movement of various
jets controls the
design. Also called
J et printing.
POLYESTER CHIFFON fabrics See Chiffon. See Chiffon.
POLYESTER COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
The correct term
should be polyester
and cotton.
The correct term
should be polyester
and cotton. The two
fibres are mixed in
varying percentages
according to the
weight and type of
fabric produced.
Polyester and cotton
mixtures can be
made into any weight
of fabric from Coile to
Gabardine, but for the
purposes of
identification in this
section these notes
refer only to the
medium-weight fabric
that resembles a
plain-weave all cotton
material. The
advantage over 100
% cotton is that the
polyester reduces
creasing and provides
good draping
qualities. It also
makes the fabric even
more hardwearing. It
may be plain or
printed or woven in
patterns. Used for
blouses, shirts,
nightwear, and
childrens clothes.
Lends itself to tucks,
gathers, soft styles
and plain styles.
During washing dirt
690
Word Category Short description Description
comes out easily.
POLYESTER CRPE fabrics Soft synthetic crpe
in a wide range of
plain colours, which
has largely replaced
other types for
blouses, dresses,
evening wear,
lounging pajamas,
negliges
Soft synthetic crpe
in a wide range of
plain colours, which
has largely replaced
other types for
blouses, dresses,
evening wear,
lounging pajamas,
negliges.
Hardwearing, does
not lose its shape and
is reasonably priced.
POLYESTER FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured fibre
in which the fibre
forming substance is
any long-chain
synthetic polymer
composed of at least
85 % by weight of an
ester of a substituted
aromatic carboxylic
acid, including but
not restricted to
substituted
terephthalate units
and para substituted
hydroxy-benzoate
units.
A manufactured fibre
in which the fibre
forming substance is
any long-chain
synthetic polymer
composed of at least
85 % by weight of an
ester of a substituted
aromatic carboxylic
acid, including but not
restricted to
substituted
terephthalate units
and para substituted
hydroxy-benzoate
units.
Polyester, the man-
made fibre, has many
similarities in
appearance and
general properties, to
nylon. Polyester is
strong, elastic and
tough. Can be heat-
set and has good
chemical properties.
Has excellent drip-dry
properties, being
even less absorbent
than nylon. It melts at
slightly higher
temperature than
nylon but its
sensitivity to heat in
use is similar. Used
alone or blended with
691
Word Category Short description Description
other fibres.
Polyester has a more
pleasant handle and
a rather less glassy
appearance than
nylon, in an ordinary
filament state. This
has led to the use of
polyester staple being
preferred to nylon for
blending with wool.
Polyester gives extra
strength and abrasion
resistance to the
fabric, in the way that
nylon would.
In uses, where the
extra given by a
higher initial
resistance to stretch
is desirable, polyester
would be preferred.
Its high resistance to
degradation by the
action of daylight
makes it suitable for
curtain net and other
materials for out of
door uses.
It is not regarded as
being dangerously
flammable; melts
when ignited and the
flame tends to go out
when the molten
portion drops away.
POLYESTER GEORGETTE fabrics See Georgette. See Georgette.
POLYESTER HONAN fabrics Fine-textured fabric
with a silky finish and
a slub yarn across it
Fine-textured fabric
with a silky finish and
a slub yarn across it.
Resembles a heavy
georgette but is softer
to the touch. Used for
full styles; blouses
and dresses.
POLYESTER J ERSEY fabrics Close plain knit
fabrics often printed,
in various weights
Close plain knit
fabrics often printed,
in various weights
692
Word Category Short description Description
from very thin to
fairly heavy.
from very thin to fairly
heavy. The
lightweight fabrics
drape well and are
soft, slippery and
shiny, although those
made from spun
polyester are matt.
These fabrics often
cause static problems
which may be
lessened by using
fabric softener
occasionally. Used for
dresses, robes,
evening clothes, light
suits. Fabrics do not
crease.
POLYESTER SATIN fabrics A satin fabric that
creases very little,
due to its fibre
content, and is soft
and comfortable to
wear and drapes
well.
A satin fabric that
creases very little,
due to its fibre
content, and is soft
and comfortable to
wear and drapes well.
It is made in various
weights suitable for
lingerie, blouses and
eveningwear. It has
less lustre than satins
made from shiny
fibres such as silk or
acetate. See Satin.
POLYESTER SHEER fabrics Firm, vision net used
for curtains
Firm, vision net used
for curtains. Fibres
vary but polyester is
mainly used because
it does not lose its
colour. Fibre
combinations include
polyester and silk,
and polyester, acrylic
and nylon.
POLYESTER VOILE fabrics Very fine polyester
curtain fabric net
made in various
widths.
Very fine polyester
curtain fabric net
made in various
widths. It is soft,
drapes well and
keeps its colour
693
Word Category Short description Description
POLYETHYLENE fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
Polyethylene, often
termed in the
shortened form
polythene is spun
from polymers or
copolymers of
ethylene.
Polyethylene, often
termed in the
shortened form
polythene is spun
from polymers or
copolymers of
ethylene. Filaments
are hot-melt extruded
and contain colouring
matter if so desired.
Characterised by very
good strength, high
abrasion resistance
and low water
absorbency
It is one of the
polymers used for
adhesives on fusible
interlinings, and
because of its very
good performance
during washing, it is
the main adhesive for
shirt collars and cuffs,
applied either as high
density or low
density, the former
having the greatest
resistance to dry
cleaning and
commercial
laundering.
It has low softening
point, high shrinkage,
low stiffness, poor
creep characteristics,
and an inability to
take dyes. These and
other shortcomings
have restricted its use
to only specialised
non-apparel
applications.
Used in thin sheet
form for transparent
bags to protect
garments. But it is not
produced as a fibre
for weaving or knitting
694
Word Category Short description Description
clothing textiles,
although in coarse
high denier filaments
it is woven into deck
chair canvas and
similar hardwearing
fabrics. However, as
non-woven fabric,
made directly from
the filaments by the
spun-bonded system,
it has become an
important type of
fabric for hospital and
clean air clothing. It
can be successfully
printed in colourful
patterns for
promotional garments
or the fibre can be
coloured during
extrusion. See also
Polyolefin fibres.
POLYISOPRENE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Elastodiene
fibre
See Elastodiene fibre
POLYMER TAPE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A tape of synthetic
polymer in
unfibrillated form,
A tape of synthetic
polymer in
unfibrillated form, that
may be used in textile
production in that
form or converted into
a fibrillated-film yarn.
POLYMERISATION processes,
operations
The chemical union
of two or more
molecules of the
same compound to
form larger
molecules of the
same compound.
1. The chemical union
of two or more
molecules of the
same compound to
form larger molecules
of the same
compound. See also
Addition
polymerisation and
Condensation
polymerisation.
2. In screen printing,
the emulsion coating
(with added hardener)
is baked, or cured, to
695
Word Category Short description Description
bring about
polymerisation - after
exposing and
developing - as it
greatly extends the
life of the patterned
print screen
POLYNOSIC fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A type of
regenerated
cellulose fibre that is
characterised by a
high initial wet
modulus of elasticity
and a relatively low
degree of swelling in
sodium hydroxide
solution.
A type of regenerated
cellulose fibre that is
characterised by a
high initial wet
modulus of elasticity
and a relatively low
degree of swelling in
sodium hydroxide
solution.
In practise the term
HWM is commonly
used to describe a
broad range of
regenerated cellulose
fibres. The term
polynosic is used for
those with the highest
wet modulus. The
properties are similar
to cotton, but the fibre
is softer, It is more
difficult to dye than
cotton. Often mixed
with cotton and other
fibres. See Modal
POLYOLEFIN FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured
fibre, often termed
simply olefin
A manufactured fibre,
often termed simply
olefin, in which the
fibre forming
substance is any long
chain synthetic
polymer composed of
at least 85 % by
weight of ethylene,
propylene, or other
olefin units, except
amorphous
(noncrystaline)
polyolefins qualifying
under Rubber, 1.
Polyethylene and
polypropylene come
696
Word Category Short description Description
under the polyolefin
group. See
Polyethylene and
Polypropylene
POLYPROPYLENE FIBRES fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Made from polymers
or copolymers of
propylene.
Characterised by
very good strength,
high abrasion
resistance and
almost total non-
absorbency of
liquids.
Made from polymers
or copolymers of
propylene.
Characterised by very
good strength, high
abrasion resistance
and almost total non-
absorbency of liquids.
Very light, have low
thermal conductivity,
good abrasion
resistance and non-
staining properties.
As a textile fibre its
main end-use is in
sports clothing and
thermal clothing. As
the fibre has virtually
nil moisture regain
facility, the bodys
water vapour cannot
be absorbed by the
fabric. When
polypropyene is worn
next to the skin, as
the first layer and
when an absorbent
layer is worn over the
polypropylene
garment, the moisture
is wicked away into
absorbent layer and
the skin is kept dry.
It can be used in
tufted, woven or non-
woven form. Deep
pile garments and
blankets make good
use of its low thermal
conductivity and
lightness. Its
resistance to acids
and alkalis makes it
suitable for the
workwear.
697
Word Category Short description Description
The fibre blends well
with other fibres such
as cotton and wool
and it can be crimped
without difficulty. It
can be printed on the
finished fabric surface
but as the softening
temperature is
comparatively low,
ironing of any type is
not recommended
and therefore transfer
printing only can be
undertaken at low
temperatures, which
reduce the colour
fastness of the prints.
See Polyolefin fibres.
POLYSTYRENE FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured fibre
made from a
synthetic linear
polymer styrene.
A manufactured fibre
made from a
synthetic linear
polymer styrene.
POLYTETRAFLUOROETHYLE
NE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibres spun from
polymers of
tetrafluoroethylene.
Fibres spun from
polymers of
tetrafluoroethylene.
Also called PTFE
fibre. See also
Fluorofibre.
POLYTHENE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Polyethylene is often
termed in the
shortened form
polythene
Polyethylene is often
termed in the
shortened form
polythene. See
Polyethylene
POLYUREA FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Polycarbamide
fibre.
See Polycarbamide
fibre.
POLYURETHANE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured fibre
composed of
synthetic linear
macromolecules
A manufactured fibre
composed of
synthetic linear
macromolecules
having in the chain
recurring aliphatic
groups joined via
urethane groups
which together
comprise at least 85
% (by mass) of the
698
Word Category Short description Description
chain.
The segmented
polyurethane fibres
are all characterised
by the high extension
and snap-back
recovery associated
with rubber-like
elasticity. See
Elastane and
Spandex
POLYVINYL ALCOHOL FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Vinal and
Vinylal fibre.
See Vinal and Vinylal
fibre.
POLYVINYL CHLORIDE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called PVC. A
type of chemically
produced
thermoplastic
chlorofibre, spun
from polymers or
copolymers of
vinylidene chloride.
Also called PVC. A
type of chemically
produced
thermoplastic
chlorofibre, spun from
polymers or
copolymers of
vinylidene chloride.
PVC has many
properties of synthetic
fibres, but it has no
absorbency. It is very
heat sensitive,
shrinks in boilinig
water and softens
even with a cool iron.
These properties
make it unsuitable for
general apparel,
unless it is heat-
stabilised. The
principal clothing use
is for thermal wear,
consisting of nearly
every type of garment
from underwear to
outer coats.
The main advantage
of the fibre is its
tendency to generate
a negative electro-
static charge. PVC
fibres generate
negative electricity by
friction with the skin,
699
Word Category Short description Description
whereas most other
fibres develop
positive electric
charges. It is believed
that it creates a
barrier of electro-
static air, which
increases and
maintains body
warmth and it is
claimed that this
negative electricity
has therapeutic
effects, and is of
value in the treatment
of rheumatism and
similar complaints.
See also Chlorofibres
and Saran.
POLYVINYL CHLORIDE
FABRIC
garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
Most fabrics referred
to as PVC fabric, are
base fabrics, such as
plain knitting or plain
or printed cottons
that have been
sprayed with
coloured or
colourless polyvinyl
chloride.
Most fabrics referred
to as PVC fabric, are
base fabrics, such as
plain knitting or plain
or printed cottons that
have been sprayed
with coloured or
colourless polyvinyl
chloride. Some are
stiff and heavy, some
are softer. Used for
aprons, protective
wear, raincoats, hats,
etc., and for curtains.
Upholstery fabric is
made from expanded
vinyl and a knitted
backing cloth.
POLYVINYLIDENE CHLORIDE
FIBRE (PVDC)
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A type of chlorofibre. A type of chlorofibre.
See Chlorofibre. See
also Saran.
POLYVOLTINE SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Silk produced by a
variety of silk worm
producing several
generations per year
Silk produced by a
variety of silk worm
producing several
generations per year,
more commonly
found in the tropics.
Also called
multivoltine silk
700
Word Category Short description Description
worm.
POMPON accessorie
s
A ball pendant made
of any fibre in a
chenille effect, i.e.
with the threads
radiating from the
centre.
A ball pendant made
of any fibre in a
chenille effect, i.e.
with the threads
radiating from the
centre. Used for
trimming curtains,
hats, dresses,
furniture, etc. when a
series of these yarn
balls hang from a
braid, they are called
a ball fringe.
PONCHO fabrics A cotton or woollen
fabric made with a
plain twill or rep
weave with fringes at
the ends.
A cotton or woollen
fabric made with a
plain twill or rep
weave with fringes at
the ends. Often made
with a slit in the
centre for the head
and used for
overcoats.
PONGEE fabrics Derived from the
Chinese penchi,
which means woven
at home or hand
loom.
Derived from the
Chinese penchi,
which means woven
at home or hand
loom. It was originally
a light silk fabric of
slightly rough feel
with excellent draping
qualities, but it may
now be acetate,
triacetate, nylon or
other fibres, all
resembling the silk
fabric in weight and
handling. It is in plain
weave and may be
printed or plain. Used
for blouses, soft
dresses, nightwear,
and plain colours as a
lining fabric. All types
are slippery.
PONGEE IMPERIAL fabrics A rich, lustrous, plain
weave pongee silk
dress fabric.
A rich, lustrous, plain
weave pongee silk
dress fabric.
701
Word Category Short description Description
PONTE-ROMA fabrics See Punto di Roma. See Punto di Roma.
PONTIAC fabrics A strong, knitted,
waterproof, woollen
fabric made in dark
grey.
A strong, knitted,
waterproof, woollen
fabric made in dark
grey. Used for skirts
and coats.
PONY CLOTH fabrics A term used for cut-
pile fabric made in
imitation of pony
skin.
A term used for cut-
pile fabric made in
imitation of pony skin.
POODLE CLOTH fabrics Fabric, medium or
heavy characterised
by loops of yarn on
the surface.
Fabric, medium or
heavy characterised
by loops of yarn on
the surface. May be
wool, acrylic or other
yarns or mixtures.
Mohair is also
sometimes included.
Is in plain colours or
random effects. Used
for jackets, coats and
warm dresses. A thick
cloth to sew, but soft
and yielding.
POOR PENETRATION defects When heavy or
densely woven
fabrics, or tightly
twisted yarn fabrics,
are piece-dyed,
there is some times
a lack of penetration
of the dye into the
centre of the yarn
material.
When heavy or
densely woven
fabrics, or tightly
twisted yarn fabrics,
are piece-dyed, there
is some times a lack
of penetration of the
dye into the centre of
the yarn material.
This condition leaves
the fibres in the
centre of yarn or at
fabric interlacing
lightly coloured or
undyed. Although
there is no problem
with such fabrics
while new, but after a
brief period of
wear/use they will
take on a faded
appearance at the
abrasion points. For
this reason, many
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Word Category Short description Description
high quality,
heavyweight and
densely woven
fabrics are yarn-dyed
even though they are
of solid shades.
POPLIN fabrics Fine closely woven
plain weave fabric,
medium-weight,
made from
mercerised cotton
yarns.
Fine closely woven
plain weave fabric,
medium-weight,
made from
mercerised cotton
yarns.
Poplin originated as a
ribbed fabric made
with a fine silk warp
and a worsted wool
weft.
It creases in wear,
although less so if
some polyester yarn
has been included. It
is in plain colours or
prints, and is very
hardwearing,
comfortable and
absorbent. Used for
mens shirts, blouses,
pajamas, childrens
clothes, and dresses.
It has a characteristic
crosswise fine rib
effect and a sheen.
The rib effect is
developed by a
deliberate
unbalancing of the
fabric structure.
The warp yarns are
very closely set and
the weft yarns are
correspondingly
opened out so that in
a good quality poplin
there will be twice as
many warp yarns per
cm than there are
weft yarns. This
means that the warp
yarns bend round the
703
Word Category Short description Description
weft yarns and the
latter remain virtually
straight. The warp
yarn interlacings
close up and almost
hide the weft and the
straight lines of weft
produce the
characteristic ribs. In
good quality poplin
warp and weft are of
the same thickness
and the rib is
produced entirely by
the imbalance of
structure
Cheaper types
produce the effect by
using a thicker weft
and a closely set
warp. This can make
the fabric liable to
crack by the sliding of
warp yarns sideways
over the straight weft.
A similar construction
principle is used to
produce the other
ribbed fabrics, such
as fille, poult,
grosgrain, and repp.
But in the case of the
heavier ribbed fabrics
thicker weft yarns
must be used to
obtain the heavier
ribs and the
difference in warp
and weft fineness and
closeness increases
considerably as the
ribs become bolder,
e.g. in a grosgrain
there will be four to
six times as many
warp yarns as weft
yarns per inch.
Poplin is mostly made
from cotton and the
704
Word Category Short description Description
best qualities are
given a mercerised
finish and are made
from combed two fold
yarns to obtain
maximum
smoothness and
evenness. Poplin is
also made from
staple fibre rayon
yarns. It is used for a
very wide range of
clothing; dresses,
blouses, shirts,
pyjamas, etc.
A very fine poplin can
be difficult to make up
because of its close
structure; it can be
very hard to sew,
particularly if it has a
resin finish and it is
very susceptible to
seam pucker
POPLINETTE fabrics A very lightweight
cotton poplin made
with single yarns.
A very lightweight
cotton poplin made
with single yarns.
PORCELAIN LACE fabrics A lace steeped in a
thick solution of
kaolin and fired,
destroying the fibres
and leaving the
resultant porcelain in
the lace pattern.
A lace steeped in a
thick solution of kaolin
and fired, destroying
the fibres and leaving
the resultant
porcelain in the lace
pattern.
POROSITY general,
fabrics
The ratio of the
volume of air or void
contained within the
boundaries of a
material to the total
volume (solid matter
plus air or void)
expressed as a
percentage.
The ratio of the
volume of air or void
contained within the
boundaries of a
material to the total
volume (solid matter
plus air or void)
expressed as a
percentage.
In fabrics, this refers
to open spaces in the
weave which permit
the passage of air
from without or which
705
Word Category Short description Description
allow body heat to
escape. See also
Permeability
POSITIVE BEAT-UP apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A beat-up
mechanism in which
the weft is moved by
a positively
controlled reed.
A beat-up mechanism
in which the weft is
moved by a positively
controlled reed. See
also Beat-up
POSITIVE DRIVE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In yarn winding, a
system in which a
yarn package is
driven mechanically
at constant or
controlled rotational
velocity.
In yarn winding, a
system in which a
yarn package is
driven mechanically
at constant or
controlled rotational
velocity. The yarn
speed varies with with
package diameter
and is also dependent
on angle of wind and
cone taper angle if
any.
POSITIVE FEED apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In weft knitting, the
supply of a
predetermined
length of yarn to a
given number of
needles of a weft-
knitting machine.
In weft knitting, the
supply of a
predetermined length
of yarn to a given
number of needles of
a weft-knitting
machine.
POST BED apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In sewing machine, a
bed incorporating a
raised post
underneath the
sewing head, which
enables sewing to be
carried out above the
level of the table on
which the machine is
mounted.
In sewing machine, a
bed incorporating a
raised post
underneath the
sewing head, which
enables sewing to be
carried out above the
level of the table on
which the machine is
mounted.
POST CURE processes,
operations
See Deferred cure See Deferred cure
POST MERCERISATION processes,
operations
Crease resistant
linen fabrics may be
produced by
treatment with urea
formaldehyde resin
followed by a
mercerising
treatment
Crease resistant linen
fabrics may be
produced by
treatment with urea
formaldehyde resin
followed by a
mercerising treatment
to confer durability
706
Word Category Short description Description
and suppleness. See
also Mercerising.
POSTER CLOTH fabrics A bleached or grey
drill cloth given a
smooth-faced and
heavy starch back-
filled finish.
A bleached or grey
drill cloth given a
smooth-faced and
heavy starch back-
filled finish.
Sometimes
impregnated with
pyroxylin to make it
weather- and termite-
proof. Used for
outdoor advertising
posters and displays.
POT SPINNING processes,
operations
See Box spinning See Box spinning
POTTING processes,
operations
A finishing process
for woollens
designed to produce
a bright, glossy face
and a soft hand.
A finishing process
for woollens designed
to produce a bright,
glossy face and a soft
hand. It consists of a
heat and steam
treatment. Also
known as wet
decating
POULT fabrics A finishing process
for woollens
designed to produce
a bright, glossy face
and a soft hand.
A finishing process
for woollens designed
to produce a bright,
glossy face and a soft
hand. It consists of a
heat and steam
treatment. Also
known as wet
decating.
POUNCING processes,
operations
In hat manufacturing In hat manufacturing,
the operation of the
subjecting the felt
hood or body to a
mechanical treatment
with emery paper to
produce a smooth
finish.
POUND GOODS fabrics Fabric remnants
usually sold by the
weight, instead of by
the length.
Fabric remnants
usually sold by the
weight, instead of by
the length.
POWDER BONDING processes, A method of making A method of making
707
Word Category Short description Description
operations thermally-bonded
non-woven fabric
thermally-bonded
non-woven fabric in
which the fibre web or
batt is bonded by
activating heat-
sensitive powder
dispersed within it.
POWDERING fabrics A dotted pattern
strewn all over the
fabric
A dotted pattern
strewn all over the
fabric
POWER NET fabrics See Lingerie knit. See Lingerie knit.
POWER STRETCH FABRICS fabrics See under Woven
stretch fabric
See under Woven
stretch fabric
POWERLOOM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A loom which is
driven by a source of
power such as an
electric motor.
A loom which is
driven by a source of
power such as an
electric motor. This is
the standard form of
loom used in the
commercial
production of fabrics.
POY fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Partially
oriented yarn
See Partially oriented
yarn
PRAYER RUG garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
A small Oriental rug
used by the Muslims
to kneel on during
prayer.
A small Oriental rug
used by the Muslims
to kneel on during
prayer. These rugs
have characteristic
motifs on it.
PRE-BOARDING processes,
operations
The operation of
boarding carried out
on garments or
stockings
The operation of
boarding carried out
on garments or
stockings, usually
before they are
scoured and dyed.
See Boarding.
PRE-CONDITIONING processes,
operations
In testing, to dry a
textile material to an
approximately
constant mass
In testing, to dry a
textile material to an
approximately
constant mass in an
atmosphere with a
relative humidity
between 10 % and 25
% and a temperature
not exceeding 50 C.
PRE-CURING processes, A finishing process A finishing process of
708
Word Category Short description Description
operations of garment fabrics as
piece goods to give
them a durable
press.
garment fabrics as
piece goods to give
them a durable press.
PRE-SENSITIZATION processes,
operations
The treatment of a
fabric with a reagent
that will give
stabilization of shape
when the fabric,
especially in garment
form, is
subsequently
pressed.
The treatment of a
fabric with a reagent
that will give
stabilization of shape
when the fabric,
especially in garment
form, is subsequently
pressed. The term
has been used, e.g.
for
(i) the application of a
cross-linking agent
and latent catalyst to
fabrics containing
cellulosic fibres, so
that the garments
produced may be
given durable shape
by a heat treatment,
and
(ii) the application of a
reducing agent, e.g.
2-
hydroxyethylammoniu
m hydrogen sulphite,
monoethanolamine
bisulphite (MEAS), to
wool fabrics and
particularly garments
to accelerate setting.
PRE-SHRUNK fabrics A fabric from which
part or all of the
residual shrinkage
has been removed
before the cloth is
offered for sale.
A fabric from which
part or all of the
residual shrinkage
has been removed
before the cloth is
offered for sale.
PRE-SPOTTING processes,
operations
A pre-treatment to
remove or enhance
removal of soil or
stains in a local area
on parts of garments
with a solvent
detergent solution
A pre-treatment to
remove or enhance
removal of soil or
stains in a local area
on parts of garments
with a solvent
detergent solution
before the regular dry
709
Word Category Short description Description
cleaning process.
PRE-TENSION general The specified
tension applied to a
specimen
preparatory to
making a test.
The specified tension
applied to a specimen
preparatory to making
a test.
PRECISION WINDING processes,
operations
The winding of a
yarn package in
such a way that
consecutive coils are
closely spaced
irrespective of
package diameter
The winding of a yarn
package in such a
way that consecutive
coils are closely
spaced irrespective of
package diameter
PRECRPING processes,
operations
The embossing of a
fabric containing
crpe yarns with a
design to influence
the uniformity and
fineness of the crpe
effect produced in
subsequent
treatment.
The embossing of a
fabric containing
crpe yarns with a
design to influence
the uniformity and
fineness of the crpe
effect produced in
subsequent
treatment. This
process is carried out
by means of a pre-
crping calender. See
also Embossed crpe
under crpe.
PREMETALLISED DYES apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Later development of
mordant dyes.
Later development of
mordant dyes. These
are dye-metal
complex dyes. By
linking chromium with
two molecules of dye,
the 1:2 chromium
complexes were
formed. These are
easier to apply and
are widely used in
dyeing, especially
wool.
PREPARATION processes,
operations
In textile
manufacturing, those
processing
operations
performed on greige
fabric, coloured
fabric, textile yarns
or fibres to ready
In textile
manufacturing, those
processing operations
performed on greige
fabric, coloured
fabric, textile yarns or
fibres to ready them
for dyeing, printing or
710
Word Category Short description Description
them for dyeing,
printing or finishing
finishing. For
example, typical
greige cotton fabric
preparation includes
singeing, desizing,
scouring, bleaching
and (optionally)
mercerising.
PRESHRINKING processes,
operations
Shrinking processes
applied to fabric
before cutting up to
hold to a specified
minimum the degree
of shrinkage which
will occur after the
made-up articles are
washed.
Shrinking processes
applied to fabric
before cutting up to
hold to a specified
minimum the degree
of shrinkage which
will occur after the
made-up articles are
washed. The
percentage of
residual shrinkage is
often indicated
PRESIDENT BRAID accessorie
s
A braid similar to
Russia braid but with
three cores
A braid similar to
Russia braid but with
three cores, the
centre core being
larger than the other
two outer cores.
PRESS apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A device that
squeezes liquid out
of a fabric by roller
pressing.
1. A device that
subjects a fabric to
heat and pressure to
remove creases, folds
or wrinkles.
2. A device that
squeezes liquid out of
a fabric by roller
pressing.
PRESS FINISHING processes,
operations
See under Boarding. See under Boarding.
PRESS-OFF defects Fabric defect, major,
in knitted fabric.
Fabric defect, major,
in knitted fabric. A
condition in which the
yarn fails to knit and
either the fabric falls
off the needles or the
design is distorted or
incomplete.
Sometimes because
of poor maintenance
of the machinery
711
Word Category Short description Description
(many of the knitting
needles that are
broken not replaced
in time), all parts of
the needles on
circular knitting fail to
function resulting in
the fabric falling off
the machine or the
design is disrupted or
even completely
destroyed.
PRESSED-IN CREASE fabrics A sharp crease
inserted intentionally
in a fabric
A sharp crease
inserted intentionally
in a fabric usually by
application of
pressure, heat, and
moisture.
PRESSER FOOT apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In a rib or plain
knitting machine, the
device that operates
in the knitting zone
for controlling loop
formation and
diminishes the need
for take down weight
on the fabric as it is
formed.
1. In a rib or plain
knitting machine, the
device that operates
in the knitting zone for
controlling loop
formation and
diminishes the need
for take down weight
on the fabric as it is
formed. Plates and
wires of various sorts
are used for this
purpose.
2. In sewing machine,
a section of the
pressure device on
the sewing machine
which ensures, in
conjunction with the
throat plate and feed-
dog, an even flow of
material and correct
loop formation.
PRESSING processes,
operations
A process of
smoothening and
shaping of textile
material
A process of
smoothening and
shaping of textile
material by heat
and/or steam and/or
vacuum, or a
combination of these
712
Word Category Short description Description
with pressure. See
also Ironing.
PRESSING AND FINISHING processes,
operations
This term takes into
account all of the
industrial pressing
and finishing
treatments used in
garment production
This term takes into
account all of the
industrial pressing
and finishing
treatments used in
garment production
PRESSING OFF processes,
operations
IN KNITTING. The
act of removing
knitting from the
needles of a knitting
machine.
1. IN KNITTING. The
act of removing
knitting from the
needles of a knitting
machine. This may be
by design at the end
of or progressively
during a knitting
cycle, or by accident
when the yarn breaks
during knitting.
2. IN GARMENT
PRESSING. See Off-
pressing
PRESSURE BOIL processes,
operations
The scouring of
cellulosic textiles
with liquors in closed
vessels under
excess pressure.
The scouring of
cellulosic textiles with
liquors in closed
vessels under excess
pressure.
PRESSURE BOWL apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In printing, the large
central printing
cylinder against
which the engraved
roller rotates
In printing, the large
central printing
cylinder against which
the engraved roller
rotates and which
carries the back-gray
and cloth to be
printed. Made
resilient by lapping, it
acts in effect like a
print table.
PRESSURE DYEING processes,
operations
Dyeing under super
atmospheric
pressure
Dyeing under super
atmospheric
pressure, primarily
with the object of
raising the
temperature of the
dye liquor above its
normal boiling point.
PRESSURE MARK defects See Bruise. See Bruise.
713
Word Category Short description Description
PREWASHING processes,
operations
A finishing technique
applied on fabrics to
ensure a soft hand
and a fashion look.
1. A finishing
technique applied on
fabrics to ensure a
soft hand and a
fashion look. Often
done to denim and
corduroy.
2. Action in the
washing solution or
period of agitation
prior to regular
washing.
Accompanied by
hand or automatic
washer
PRICKSTITCH general A hand stitch made
by passing the
needle straight
through the material
at right angles to the
surface alternately
from one side to the
other.
A hand stitch made
by passing the needle
straight through the
material at right
angles to the surface
alternately from one
side to the other.
PRIMARY COLOURS general The primary or pure
colours are red,
yellow and blue;
when mixed they
produce all other
colours.
The primary or pure
colours are red,
yellow and blue;
when mixed they
produce all other
colours. See also
Colour, Secondary
colours and Tertiary
colours.
PRIMARY CREEP processes,
operations
See Delayed
deformation.
See Delayed
deformation.
PRINCE OF WALES CHECK fabrics See Glen Urquhart
check under Checks.
See Glen Urquhart
check under Checks.
PRINCESS LACE fabrics An imitation of the
luxurious Duchesse
lace.
An imitation of the
luxurious Duchesse
lace.
PRINT fabrics Textile fabrics to
which patterns are
applied by dyes with
stencils, rollers,
wooden blocks, or
screens.
Textile fabrics to
which patterns are
applied by dyes with
stencils, rollers,
wooden blocks, or
screens.
PRINT BONDING processes,
operations
A method of making
non-woven fabrics in
A method of making
non-woven fabrics in
714
Word Category Short description Description
which there is
controlled application
of adhesive to those
used for colouration
which there is
controlled application
of adhesive to those
used for colouration.
See also Adhesive
bonded non-woven
fabric.
PRINT CLOTH fabrics A medium weight
cotton fabric with a
plain weave from
carded yarns.
A medium weight
cotton fabric with a
plain weave from
carded yarns. Widths
vary widely. The
fabric is similar to
sheeting but with finer
yarn and
construction.
Converted into a wide
variety of differently
finished fabrics and
printed in many
different types of
patterns.
PRINT MACHINE STOP defects Printing defect,
major.
Printing defect, major.
The smudging of dye
along the width of the
fabric, caused by a
machine stop.
PRINT OUT OF REGISTER defects Printing defect, may
be major or minor.
Printing defect, may
be major or minor.
The various colours
of the design are not
in proper position,
caused by the print
rollers not being
synchronised
properly.
PRINT WORK processes,
operations
Embroidery worked
with black stitches
over sepia printed
designs
Embroidery worked
with black stitches
over sepia printed
designs. Also called
etching embroidery.
PRINT-ON processes,
operations
A term used to
indicate that the
printing method
employed is not
discharge printing
A term used to
indicate that the
printing method
employed is not
discharge printing
PRINT-ON-PRINT processes,
operations
Application of motifs
to a textile fabric by
Application of motifs
to a textile fabric by
715
Word Category Short description Description
an individual printing
roller for each colour.
an individual printing
roller for each colour.
A low expense
method of printing.
PRINT-PASTE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Also known as Dye-
paste.
Also known as Dye-
paste. The blend of
colouring-matter,
solvents, mordant
and thickening, which
are used in printing to
achieve the required
impression
PRINTED STRING fabrics See Bolduc. See Bolduc.
PRINTED YARNS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Yarns on which the
design is printed
before weaving.
Yarns on which the
design is printed
before weaving. Both
the warp and weft
yarns may be printed,
or sometimes only the
warp yarns are
printed; the latter
being known as a
warp printed fabric.
PRINTING processes,
operations
The process for
applying colourants
or other materials to
the surface of a
substrate, usually in
specific localised
areas to produce a
design.
The process for
applying colourants or
other materials to the
surface of a
substrate, usually in
specific localised
areas to produce a
design. Patterning of
cloth by means of
printing, dyeing or
painting. Printed
fabrics may be
divided into four
different styles: Resist
style, Dyed (or
mordant) style,
Discharge style and
Direct style.
All four styles can
obviously be used in
conjunction with a
great variety of
devices, from the
simplest brush or
thread, as in tie-and-
716
Word Category Short description Description
dye, to the most
elaborate and
sophisticated of
modern screen
printing machinery.
PRINTING TOPPING processes,
operations
Second printing of a
fabric
Second printing of a
fabric. Printing is
done after the colour
has been fixed and
dried. Colours for
topping are brilliant,
heavy and dark to
give tone to the
lighter colours used in
the first printing.
PROCESS ENGRAVING processes,
operations
The process in which
copper cylinders
used for printing are
etched from
tracings (positives)
The process in which
copper cylinders used
for printing are etched
from tracings
(positives) produced
entirely by
photographic means.
Also known as
Photographic
engraving.
PROCESSED FILAMENT
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A synthetic filament
yarn that has been
treated to increase
its bulk.
A synthetic filament
yarn that has been
treated to increase its
bulk.
PROCESSING
ORGANISATION
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The layout of
machinery, drafts,
etc. used in textile
manufacturing
The layout of
machinery, drafts,
etc. used in textile
manufacturing to
produce a particular
textile product
PROCESSING
PERFORMANCE
processes,
operations
A general term
denoting the
processing efficiency
of a specific process
A general term
denoting the
processing efficiency
of a specific process
or covering a group or
series of processes
PRODUCER DYEING processes,
operations
See under Mass-
colouration
See under Mass-
colouration
PRODUCERS RISK general The probability of
rejecting a lot when
the process average
is at the Acceptable
The probability of
rejecting a lot when
the process average
is at the Acceptable
717
Word Category Short description Description
Quality Level or
AQL.
Quality Level or AQL.
See also Acceptable
quality level.
PRODUCTION LINE processes,
operations
In garment
manufacturing, a
linear arrangement
of sewing machines,
each dedicated to a
limited task within
the production of a
garment.
In garment
manufacturing, a
linear arrangement of
sewing machines,
each dedicated to a
limited task within the
production of a
garment. The number
of machines devoted
to a particular task is
related to the
proportion of time that
the task occupies in
the total time required
to produce the
garment. The work
usually passes from
one operative to
another in bundles.
PRODUCTION LOT general That part of one
manufacturers
production made
from the same
nominal raw material
under essentially the
same conditions and
designed to meet the
same specifications.
That part of one
manufacturers
production made from
the same nominal raw
material under
essentially the same
conditions and
designed to meet the
same specifications.
PROFESSIONAL CARE processes,
operations
For consumer textile
products, overall
cleaning and
maintenance
procedures requiring
the services of a
person specially
trained or skilled in
their use
For consumer textile
products, overall
cleaning and
maintenance
procedures requiring
the services of a
person specially
trained or skilled in
their use and usually
earning a livelihood
by their cleaning.
PROFILE FIBRES fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A term used to
identify shape of the
fibre-filament cross
section
A term used to
identify shape of the
fibre-filament cross
section, i.e. bilobal,
pentalobal, round,
dogbone, x-shaped or
718
Word Category Short description Description
y-shaped
PROFILE STITCHING general Automatic sewing
following a pre-
determined profile,
e.g. by jig or cams.
Automatic sewing
following a pre-
determined profile,
e.g. by jig or cams.
Usually applied to the
automatic stitching of
small parts. See also
Contour stitching and
Stitching jig.
PROGRESSIVE BUNDLE
SYSTEM
processes,
operations
A production system
in which bundles
pass from one
operator to the next
with some work in
hand at each
operation.
A production system
in which bundles pass
from one operator to
the next with some
work in hand at each
operation. The
operations are laid
out in sequence with
the required number
of machines for
approximate balance
allocated to each.
Conventional bundle
system
PROGRESSIVE CURING processes,
operations
Also called
Spontaneous curing.
Also called
Spontaneous curing.
A sensitised fabric
treated for deferred
cure that cures itself
spontaneously while it
is in storage
PROGRESSIVE LINE SYSTEM processes,
operations
A production system
in which single
garments or parts
are assembled.
A production system
in which single
garments or parts are
assembled. During
assembly the parts
are passed from one
operator to the next
resulting in some
work in hand.
PROGRESSIVE SHRINKAGE fabrics Shrinkage that
occurs on repeated
washing or cleaning.
Shrinkage that occurs
on repeated washing
or cleaning.
PROJ ECTILE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A device used in
place of a shuttle.
A device used in
place of a shuttle.
Instead of carrying a
supply of yarn on a
bobbin or quill, the
719
Word Category Short description Description
projectile grips single
ends of weft yarn and
carries them through
the warp shed at the
appropriate times.
See also Shuttleless
looms.
PROJ ECTILE LOOM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A loom that uses
projectiles instead of
shuttles
A loom that uses
projectiles instead of
shuttles. See also
Shuttleless looms.
PROOF fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics,
garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
Fully resistant to a
specified agency,
either by reason of
physical structure or
inherent chemical
non-reactivity, or
arising from a
treatment designed
to impart the desired
characteristics.
Fully resistant to a
specified agency,
either by reason of
physical structure or
inherent chemical
non-reactivity, or
arising from a
treatment designed to
impart the desired
characteristics.
Proofing treatments
are defined by
specified limits
ascertained by test,
and the use of the
term is related to the
limiting conditions.
Resistant,
retardant, or
repellent are
appropriate
alternatives used
when the resistance
is less than full.
PROOFED fabrics Descriptive of a
material that has
been treated to
render it resistant to
a specified agency
Descriptive of a
material that has
been treated to
render it resistant to a
specified agency. A
designation of
materials as proofed
should indicate that
the material conforms
to definite standards.
See Proof.
PROTEASE See under Enzymes See under Enzymes
PROTECTIVE FINISHES processes, finishing treatments Those finishing
720
Word Category Short description Description
operations treatments: (a) that
protect the wearer
from discomfort such
as air conditioning,
antibacterial, anti-
static (b) that protect
wearer from bodily
injury such as fire
retardant and (c) that
protect the fabric from
deterioration such as
moth repellent,
perspiration
resistant, mildew
resistant, and
abrasion resistant.
PROTEIN FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A natural fibre
derived from
animals.
1. A natural fibre
derived from animals.
2. A manufactured
fibre obtained from
natural protein
substances by
chemical
regeneration.
PRUNELLA fabrics A 2/1 twill weave,
fine worsted cloth,
mostly made in plain
colours only.
A 2/1 twill weave, fine
worsted cloth, mostly
made in plain colours
only. Often used for
childrens clothes, but
also for clergymens
wear.
PTFE FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Short for
polytetrafluoroethyle
ne
Short for
polytetrafluoroethylen
e. See
Polytetrafluoroethylen
e
PTU garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
Abbreviatiion for
permanent turn-up.
Abbreviatiion for
permanent turn-up.
See Turn-ups.
PUCKERED FABRIC fabrics Fabrics that have
curliness or
crimpness in it
Fabrics that have
curliness or
crimpness in it, as a
result of uneven
contraction, caused
when yarns of
different sizes or
varying tensions are
721
Word Category Short description Description
woven together or by
processing. See
Pliss, Seersucker.
PUCKERED SELVEDGE defects Fabric defect, may
be major or minor.
Fabric defect, may be
major or minor.
Usually caused by
selvage being
stretched in finishing
or uneven wetting out
in the sanforization
process.
PUCKERING defects A wavy, three-
dimensional effect
typified by closely
spaced wrinkles
A wavy, three-
dimensional effect
typified by closely
spaced wrinkles, on
either the face fabric
or the backing fabric,
or both.
PUFF garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
A small wedge of the
same material sewn
on to a V cut at
various positions in
canvas or lining
making
A small wedge of the
same material sewn
on to a V cut at
various positions in
canvas or lining
making to
accommodate a
prominence, such as
the shoulder bones.
PULL fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
PULL, IN ZIPPERS.
A part connected to
a zipper slider by
which the slider is
operated.
1. In cotton length
testing, a group of
fibres grasped by the
forceps at one time
and drawn from the
specimen in the
combs.
2. PULL, IN
ZIPPERS. A part
connected to a zipper
slider by which the
slider is operated.
PULL-IN defects See Pulled-in filling. See Pulled-in filling.
PULL-IN MACHINE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A machine used to
photographically
reduce the width of a
printing design as
well as for slashing.
A machine used to
photographically
reduce the width of a
printing design as
well as for slashing.
Also known as Take-
in machine.
722
Word Category Short description Description
PULLED WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Slipe
wool, Skin wool.
Also called Slipe
wool, Skin wool. Wool
taken from the pelt of
a slaughtered sheep
and which has not
been commercially
scoured. It is inferior
in all respects to
fleece wool, which is
taken from live sheep.
Pulled wool is used
with better grades of
fleece wool to make
woollen and
worsteds.
PULLED WORK processes,
operations
Open-work
embroidery.
Open-work
embroidery.
PULLED-IN FILLING defects Fabric defect Fabric defect. Also
called Drag-in, Lash-
in, Whip-in. An extra
thread dragged into
the shed with the
regular pick and
extending only a part
of the way across the
cloth. See also J erk-
in.
PULLER FEED apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In sewing machine, a
feed mechanism
situated after the
presser foot and
consisting of one or
more rollers
In sewing machine, a
feed mechanism
situated after the
presser foot and
consisting of one or
more rollers, at least
one of which is
driven, in contact with
the material, which
feed or assist in
feeding it. Puller
feeds may be either
continuous or
intermittent.
PULLING, RAG processes,
operations
Also called Grinding,
rag.
Also called Grinding,
rag. The operation of
reducing rags and
threads to a fibrous
state.
PULLING-BACK processes,
operations
See Unweaving. See Unweaving.
723
Word Category Short description Description
PULLING-BACK PLACE defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. An
isolated narrow bar,
running parallel with
the picks of woven
fabric, that starts
abruptly and
gradually shades
away to normal fabric
and is caused by
unweaving. The
pick-spacing within
this bar may be
different from that of
the normal fabric or
may be similar to it,
but the effect will still
be visible as a result
of the greater degree
of abrasion to which
the warp has been
subjected by being
unwoven and woven
again
PULP fibers,
filaments,
yarns
COTTON. Purified
cotton linters usually
in the form of
standard sheets
about 1mm thick.
The process involves
pressure boiling
followed by
bleaching.
1. COTTON. Purified
cotton linters usually
in the form of
standard sheets
about 1mm thick. The
process involves
pressure boiling
followed by
bleaching.
2. WOOD. Cellulose
fibres isolated from
wood by chemical
treatments. A raw
material in the
manufacture of
viscose
PUNCHED CARD fabrics In weaving, a card
perforated in such a
manner to control
operations
In weaving, a card
perforated in such a
manner to control
operations; in
weaving to control the
pattern in a fabric
PUNCHED WORK processes,
operations
An open work type of
embroidery.
An open work type of
embroidery. Certain
threads of a fabric are
724
Word Category Short description Description
pulled aside with a
needle or stiletto and
are fastened by
embroidery stitches.
Used mainly on
household linens.
PUNTO DI ROMA fabrics A non-jacquard
double jersey fabric
made on an interlock
basis, using a
selection of loops
and floats.
A non-jacquard
double jersey fabric
made on an interlock
basis, using a
selection of loops and
floats. A double-knit
fabric combining the
appearance of rib and
jersey stitches. The
alternative Ponte-
Roma is probably a
corruption.
PURDAH fabrics A fine, closely woven
cotton or linen veil
worn by Indian
women
1. A fine, closely
woven cotton or linen
veil worn by Indian
women.
2. A plain weave,
Indian cotton fabric
generally made in
blue and white
stripes. Used for
curtains and screens
PURE DYE SILK fabrics See Pure silk. See Pure silk.
PURE FINISH processes,
operations
A finish applied
without the use of
weighting, sizing,
etc.
A finish applied
without the use of
weighting, sizing, etc.
PURE GOLD fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Gold
thread.
See under Gold
thread.
PURE SILK fabrics Also called Pure dye
silk, All silk
Also called Pure dye
silk, All silk. Silk
goods which do not
contain metallic
weighting or finishing
materials exceeding
10 % (15 % on black).
See also Weighted
silk.
PURE STARCHED FINISH processes,
operations
A crisp finish
achieved with a
A crisp finish
achieved with a
725
Word Category Short description Description
starch mixture, to
which softening
compounds may be
added.
starch mixture, to
which softening
compounds may be
added. Used
especially on cotton
goods it is applied to
achieve the hand,
but not for weighting.
PURIFYING FINISH processes,
operations
Any fabric treatment
which prevents body
odours
Any fabric treatment
which prevents body
odours by destroying
odour-causing
bacteria coming in
contact with the
fabric.
PURL FABRIC fabrics A weft knitted fabric
in which both back
and face loops are
used in some or all
of the wales, which
produces horizontal
ridges and thus the
ribbed effect.
A weft knitted fabric in
which both back and
face loops are used in
some or all of the
wales, which
produces horizontal
ridges and thus the
ribbed effect. The
structure may be
identified by the
particular knitting
sequence used, e.g.
1x1 purl fabric, in
which a single course
of back loops
alternates with a
single course of face
loops. 2x2 purl and
3x3 are made in a
corresponding way.
See also Fancy purl.
PURL GAITING processes,
operations
See under Gating. See under Gating.
PURL STITCH fabrics Usually a weft-knit
cloth, nor classed
with single and
double knits which
are also weft knits,
but separately.
Usually a weft-knit
cloth, nor classed
with single and
double knits which
are also weft knits,
but separately.
Identifying features
are that it looks
similar to the reverse
side of jersey. Used
726
Word Category Short description Description
for sweaters, in
stripes and patterns.
Also termed as plain
knitted.
PURLS fabrics See Pearls. See Pearls.
PURSE SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A thick, smooth, soft
silk thread used for
embroidery.
A thick, smooth, soft
silk thread used for
embroidery.
PURSE TWIST fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A silk yarn dyed in a
brilliant colour in
imitation of gold.
A silk yarn dyed in a
brilliant colour in
imitation of gold.
Used as ornamental
thread and for
embroidery.
PUSSY WILLOW fabrics A plain weave fabric
characterised by fine
horizontal lines and
made from net silk
yarn.
A plain weave fabric
characterised by fine
horizontal lines and
made from net silk
yarn. The warp sett is
made greater than
the weft sett.
PUTTING IN REGISTER processes,
operations
See Pitching. See Pitching.
PUTTING ON processes,
operations
In printing, the job of
transferring the
design to the surface
of the block or die
prior to cutting or
engraving.
In printing, the job of
transferring the
design to the surface
of the block or die
prior to cutting or
engraving.
PVC fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Polyvinyl
chloride fibre.
See Polyvinyl chloride
fibre.
PVDC fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Polyvinylidene
chloride.
See Polyvinylidene
chloride.
PYJ AMA garments,
made-ups,
assemblie
s
Same as Pajama. Same as Pajama.

Q

Word Category Short description Description
QD apparatus,
equipage,
Abbreviation for quick
disassembly zipper.
Abbreviation for quick
disassembly zipper. See
727
Word Category Short description Description
tools Releasing stop.
QR apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Abbreviation for quick
release zipper.
Abbreviation for quick release
zipper. See Releasing stop.
QUALITY general A relative term used to
indicate the perceived
merits of similar
products for the same
end-use.
Quality may be described as:
1. The totality of features and
characteristics of a product or
service that bear on its ability to
satisfy stated or implied needs.
2. A term, usually combined with
a number or name, used to
identify textile products.
3. A relative term used to
indicate the perceived merits of
similar products for the same
end-use.
QUALITY
CONTROL
general Continuous testing and
inspection of
manufacturing
operations to make
certain that all products
measure up to quality
standards previously
set.
Continuous testing and
inspection of manufacturing
operations to make certain that
all products measure up to
quality standards previously set.
QUALITY
WOOLS
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Wool grading term
referring to wools
graded from 28s to
100s quality.
Wool grading term referring to
wools graded from 28s to 100s
quality. Superior qualities,
graded above 60s are merino.
Those graded below 60s are
classed as crossbreds, below
50s medium crossbreds. Wools
graded below 40s are generally
classed as coarse wool.
QUALITY, IN
WARP
KNITTING
processes,
operations
See Inches per rack
(IPR).
See Inches per rack (IPR).
QUALTY
ASSURANCE
general To carry out all those
planned and systematic
actions necessary to
provide adequate
confidence that a
product or service will
satisfy given
requirements for
quality.
To carry out all those planned
and systematic actions
necessary to provide adequate
confidence that a product or
service will satisfy given
requirements for quality.
QUARTER fabrics A unit of measure, 9
inches, used as a
A unit of measure, 9 inches,
used as a standard in
728
Word Category Short description Description
standard in measuring
some textiles
measuring some textiles;
especially wider widths.
QUARTER
GOODS
fabrics Fabrics 9 inches wide. Fabrics 9 inches wide. Three-
quarter goods is 27 inches wide;
six-quarter is 54 inches wide
and labeled 6/4.
QUARTZ
FIBRES
general Pure melted silica that
is drawn into glass-like
fibres.
Pure melted silica that is drawn
into glass-like fibres. These
fibres have good resistance and
high dielectric strength.
QUARTZ
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Yarn spun from quartz
fibre and short fibres
obtained fem textile
waste
Yarn spun from quartz fibre and
short fibres obtained fem textile
waste; the latter are too short to
be spun alone. The quartz fibre
forms the skeleton or backbone
of the yarn, which is claimed to
be highly durable. Mainly
produced in Austria.
QUEEN SILK fabrics A soft, silk chiffon
fabric, yarn or piece
dyed.
A soft, silk chiffon fabric, yarn or
piece dyed.
QUEEN
STITCH
general A square-within-a-
square design
embroidered on a
fabric.
A square-within-a-square design
embroidered on a fabric. The
sides are parallel.
QUEENS
CORD
fabrics In warp-knitting, a two-
bar construction made
with full-set threading in
both guide bars.
In warp-knitting, a two-bar
construction made with full-set
threading in both guide bars.
The lapping movement of the
back guide bar involves
underlapping three or four
needle spaces, while the front
guide bar chains continuously
on the same needle.
QUENCHING processes,
operations
Cooling of man-made
fibres after extrusion by
carefully controlled air
flow.
Cooling of man-made fibres
after extrusion by carefully
controlled air flow.
QUILANDI
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A coarse, hand-twisted,
two-ply coir yarn
produced on the
Malabar coast, India.
A coarse, hand-twisted, two-ply
coir yarn produced on the
Malabar coast, India. Used
mainly for bagging and matting
QUILL fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
apparatus,
equipage,
See Pirn. 1. See Pirn.
2. In feathers, the stem or
central shaft.
729
Word Category Short description Description
tools
QUILL
EMBROIDERY
processes,
operations
Needlework decorated
with split porcupine
quills, feathers, and
stips of skins.
Needlework decorated with split
porcupine quills, feathers, and
stips of skins.
QUILL
FEATHERS
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Feathers which are
over 4 inches in length
or which have a quill
point exceeding 6/16
iches in length.
Feathers which are over 4
inches in length or which have a
quill point exceeding 6/16 iches
in length.
QUILL POINT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
In feathers, the section
of quill extending
beyond the section of
barb attachment.
In feathers, the section of quill
extending beyond the section of
barb attachment.
QUILL SHAFT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
In feathers, the section
of quill from which the
barbs emanate.
In feathers, the section of quill
from which the barbs emanate.
QUILL
WINDING
processes,
operations
See Pirn winding. See Pirn winding.
QUILOT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A fine, white and glossy
inner fbre yielded by
the abaca plant.
A fine, white and glossy inner
fbre yielded by the abaca plant.
Used for very fine fabrics by the
natives of the Philippines.
QUILT fabrics,
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A bedcovering
assembly used
primarily for warmth,
consisting of an
insulating filler secured
between two layers of
fabric, but generally
lighter in weight and
thinner than a
comforter.
A bedcovering assembly used
primarily for warmth, consisting
of an insulating filler secured
between two layers of fabric, but
generally lighter in weight and
thinner than a comforter. The
two layers of fabric are held with
rows of machining in diamond
pattern or parallel rows.
A backing, which may be a thin
layer of plain-colored knitted
nylon or another fabric to
contrast with or match the outer
material, is usually added before
quilting This is referred to as
double-sided quilt-ing. All
quilting is warm but light. Used
for robes, dressing gowns, bed
jackets, anoraks, childrens
clothes, snow suits, jackets,
boleros, belts and also small
pieces of quilting can be used
for collars, pockets, yokes, lining
hoods.
730
Word Category Short description Description
QUILTING processes,
operations
The production of a
raised or padded effect
by stitching or other
means in two layers of
fabric lined or interlined
with wadding or similar
material.
The production of a raised or
padded effect by stitching or
other means in two layers of
fabric lined or interlined with
wadding or similar material. The
stitching, etc. may be in parallel
rows or to a pattern
QUILTING
COTTON
accessories Stuffing used for quilts
made of cotton batting
or wadding.
Stuffing used for quilts made of
cotton batting or wadding.
QUINA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Trade name for a rather
recently developed
nylon fibre which is
made available only in
filament form, has
some silk-like
properties.
Trade name for a rather recently
developed nylon fibre which is
made available only in filament
form, has some silk-like
properties. Need no ironing, and
reasonably crease resistant,
non-yellowing. Used mainly for
knitted fabrics.
QULLING processes,
operations,
fabrics
A type of narrow lace of
plain or spotted net.
1. A process of winding warp
yarns on filling bobbins or quills
especially yarns of man-made
fibres or silk yarn.
2. A trimming fabric which is
fluted or plaited, resembling a
row of quills.
3. A type of narrow lace of plain
or spotted net.
QUTN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The Arabic word for
cotton.
The Arabic word for cotton.

R

Word Category Short description Description
RABBIT HAIR CLOTH fabrics A fabric in which
rabbits hair is used in
combination with other
fibers to give the
material a soft,
smooth hand.
A fabric in which rabbits hair
is used in combination with
other fibers to give the
material a soft, smooth hand.
Little or much of the rabbit
hair may appear on the
surface, as desired. It is used
in varying percentages with
wool and in blend fabrics.
RACCROC STITCH A stitch used in lace
making to join
separately made
A stitch used in lace making
to join separately made
pieces together into a larger
731
Word Category Short description Description
pieces together into a
larger piece.
piece. The edges of the
smaller pieces are finished
with half meshes instead of
whole meshes.
RACE I F The cut filling floats of
pile that run warpwise
in corduroy and
velveteen.
1. The cut filling floats of pile
that run warpwise in corduroy
and velveteen. After the cloth
is woven, the races are cut in
their center. Later, the cut
fibers are brushed up to form
an all-over pile, as in
velveteen, or cords or wales,
as in corduroy.
2. In the loom, the path of the
shuttle on the reed.
RACK I In warp knitting, a unit
of length measure
consisting of 480
courses.
In warp knitting, a unit of
length measure consisting of
480 courses. On machines
with two needle-bars, 480
courses on each set of
needles
RACKED STITCH I In weft knitting, a
sideways-deflected
stitch
In weft knitting, a sideways-
deflected stitch that lies
across a stitch formed in the
same course on the opposite
needle bed.
RACKING The movement of one
knitting bed of a rib or
purl knitting machine
relative to the other
The movement of one
knitting bed of a rib or purl
knitting machine relative to
the other, either to produce
deflections within the fabric
being knitted or to re-align
the elements for a different
structure to that previously
being knitted.
Partial racking: Less than
one full needle space, may
be required to facilitate loop
transfer from one bed to the
other on a rib machine.
RADDLE F A mechanical device
for spreading the
warps evenly as they
are wound onto the
beam.
A mechanical device for
spreading the warps evenly
as they are wound onto the
beam. Necessary when the
loom is warped from the back
to the front.
RADIANT ENERGY o Energy traveling
through space in the
Energy traveling through
space in the form of photons
732
Word Category Short description Description
form of photons or
electromagnetic
waves of various
lengths.
or electromagnetic waves of
various lengths.
RADIO fabrics A soft, lustrous, sheer
silk fabric
A soft, lustrous, sheer silk
fabric made in a plain weave
and dyed or printed.
RADIO FREQUENCY
HEATING
processes,
operations
The use of dielectric
for heating.
Also called RF heating. The
use of dielectric of
frequencies from 3 to 300
MHz for heating.
RADIO
PUNCHWORK
Openwork embroidery
made with round
designs.
Openwork embroidery made
with round designs.
RADIUM fabrics Plain-weave lustrous
fabric
Plain-weave lustrous fabric,
that has the draping quality of
Crpe but the crispness of
Taffeta. The fibers used
include silk, viscose, acetate,
and triacetate. Used for
lingerie, robes, blouses, and
as lining fabric. Slippery to
handle.
RAFFIA v A fiber obtained from
the leaves of the raffia
palm raphia ruffia.
A fiber obtained from the
leaves of the raffia palm
raphia ruffia.
RAG PULLING The reducing of
wastes, threads, and
fabrics to fibrous form
The reducing of wastes,
threads, and fabrics to
fibrous form by garnetting or
by some other process
appropriate for waste stock
RAG RUG z A rug made with a
weft of rags of cotton
or wool torn into strips
and tied sewed
together at the ends.
A rug made with a weft of
rags of cotton or wool torn
into strips and tied sewed
together at the ends. The
warp is of heavy cotton. May
be handmade or machine-
made
RAGLAN SLEEVE z A sleeve with the
armhole line
extending from the
front and back scye to
the neck point
A sleeve with the armhole
line extending from the front
and back scye to the neck
point so that the shoulder
section is joined to the sleeve
crown, eliminating the
conventional shoulder and
sleeve head seams. The
term is used in both woven
733
Word Category Short description Description
and knitted garment
construction.
RAGS I z Shabby or tattered
clothing, torn pieces of
cloth.
Shabby or tattered clothing,
torn pieces of cloth.
1. NEW RAGS. The waste
fabric, whether or woven or
knitted, that is left after a
garment has been cut out.
The term also covers piece
ends and discarded pattern
bunches.
2. OLD RAGS. Worn
garments etc., that have
been discarded.
RAILWAY STITCH Same as Chain stitch. 1. Same as Chain stitch.
2. In crocheting, same as
tricot stitch.
3. See Leviathan stitch.
RAIN GROWN
COTTON
v Cotton grown under
conditions of natural
rainfall.
Cotton grown under
conditions of natural rainfall.
The moisture content and
rate of growth have a definite
influence upon fiber
properties and have an effect
upon finishing processes
such as dyeing.
RAIN TEST I A standard method to
measure the
resistance of fabrics to
the penetration of rain.
A standard method to
measure the resistance of
fabrics to the penetration of
rain. Different hydrostatic
heads are used to simulate
the effects of rainfalls of
different intensities. See
Water resistance.
RAINBOW EFFECT An effect produced in
calico printing by
shading the different
colored fields into
each other.
An effect produced in calico
printing by shading the
different colored fields into
each other.
RAINBOW YARNS v Novelty yarns made in
an ombr effect.
Novelty yarns made in an
ombr effect.
RAINBOWING processes,
operations
The use of divided
color-box in block
printing
The use of divided color-box
in block printing, so that the
color is transferred to the
block in the form of softly
shaded stripes. In French it is
called Fondu.
734
Word Category Short description Description
RAINCOAT FABRIC I See Proofed poplin. See Proofed poplin.
RAISED BACKS fabrics A general term for
fabrics with nap raised
on the back
A general term for fabrics
with nap raised on the back,
especially cotton fabrics
such as flannelette, some
pajama fabrics
RAISED CHECKS I A fabric figured with
extra warp on a plain
ground.
A fabric figured with extra
warp on a plain ground.
RAISED COLORS A printing term for
colors which are
treated after printing
A printing term for colors
which are treated after
printing, in a bath which will
fix or develop the color.
RAISED
EMBROIDERY
processes,
operations
Needlework with
raised patterns done
in satin stitch over
padding.
Needlework with raised
patterns done in satin stitch
over padding. Used on table
and bed linens, scallops and
for monograms. Embroidery
with figures in high relief is
called Stump work.
RAISED FABRIC I See Napped fabric. See Napped fabric.
RAISED FIBER
SURFACE
I In textile fabrics,
intentionally lifted
fibers or yarns such
as pile, napped,
tufted, flocked, or
similar surfaces.
In textile fabrics, intentionally
lifted fibers or yarns such as
pile, napped, tufted, flocked,
or similar surfaces.
RAISED J ERSEY I Term used to describe
a medium-weight knit
fabric of fairly open
texture, that has been
brushed on the right
side to add warmth
and give an attractive
fuzzy effect.
Term used to describe a
medium-weight knit fabric of
fairly open texture, that has
been brushed on the right
side to add warmth and give
an attractive fuzzy effect.
Often made in random color
coordinating yarns. The fiber
is usually acrylic as it lends
itself particularly well to this
kind of treat-ment. Used for
soft suits, dresses, and
coats.
RAISED POINT I A needlepoint lace
with a padded motif to
make it stand in relief.
A needlepoint lace with a
padded motif to make it stand
in relief.
RAISING See Napping. See Napping.
RAISING PLAINS I A plain weave cotton
fabric made with hard
spun warp and
A plain weave cotton fabric
made with hard spun warp
and coarse, soft spun filling.
735
Word Category Short description Description
coarse, soft spun
filling.
RAJ AH I Soft, strong, plain
weave silk fabric with
rough texture.
Soft, strong, plain weave silk
fabric with rough texture. It
was first made, not in the Far
East, but in the United
States. Tussah Silk was
normally used, but it is now
made from acetate,
triacetate, nylon, polyester. It
is very similar in appearance
and weight to Pongee
RAMBOUILLET v Wool fiber from a
breed, which is of the
largest and the
strongest bodied wool
sheep
Wool fiber from a breed,
which is of the largest and
the strongest bodied wool
sheep. This is a pure
descendant of Spanish
merino. Fiber length is 11/2
to 3 inches. Shrinkage
averages about 60 %.
RAMIE fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
yarn. Also known as
China-grass, Rhea. It
a strong, vegetable
bast fiber.
Yarn. Also known as China-
grass, Rhea. It a strong,
vegetable bast fiber. Ramie
consists of the bast fibers
from the green-leafed ramie
(Bohemeria nivea), and the
white-leafed ramie
(Bohemeria tenacissima).
Lacks flexibility and elasticity.
Very lustrous, bleaches to a
beautiful white and is
extremely durable.
Fabric. Also called China
grass and Nettle cloth. An old
Chinese fabric woven from
ramie fibers. An uneven
weave, but a very fine
transparent fabric once used
a great deal in China as a
basis for embroidered table
linen. Launders and starches
well. Very similar in
appearance to Pineapple
cloth.
RANDOM DYEING processes,
operations
A method of dyeing
yarn
A method of dyeing yarn
where the color is applied to
small areas in a random
manner with some portions in
736
Word Category Short description Description
one color and other portions
in other color or white. May
be done by Tie-dyeing.
RANDOM LINKING Linking in which, when
stitching pieces of
fabric together, no
attempt is made to
stitch through
adjacent loops.
Linking in which, when
stitching pieces of fabric
together, no attempt is made
to stitch through adjacent
loops.
RANDOM RANGE I See Pattern blanket. See Pattern blanket.
RANDOM SAMPLING The process of
selecting units for a
sample of size n
The process of selecting
units for a sample of size n
in such a manner that all
combinations of n units
under consideration have an
equal or ascertainable
chance of being selected as
the sample. Same as Simple
random sampling and
Sampling at random.
RANDOM SHEAR I The pile of a rug
which has been cut
(sheared) so that the
pile is in varied,
random lengths.
1. The pile of a rug which has
been cut (sheared) so that
the pile is in varied, random
lengths. This kind of texture
is intended to ensure a bright
lustre and soil-hiding
properties.
2. A planned shearing or
clipping of loops in parts of a
textured effect. May be called
sculpturing as in carpeting,
velvet, velveteen and some
silk fabrics. Clipped loops in
some parts of a motif and un-
cut loops in other parts gives
a richness of texture to the
cloth, particularly for
eveningwear.
RANDOM SLUB v A slub yarn with the
thick places in a
variety of lengths and
thicknesses and
distributed at random
in the yarn
A slub yarn with the thick
places in a variety of lengths
and thicknesses and
distributed at random in the
yarn
RANDOM WINDING A method of winding
cones and cheeses
A method of winding cones
and cheeses in which the
angle of wind is constant and
the wind decreases as the
737
Word Category Short description Description
package diameter increases.
RANDOM YARN v A novelty yarn 1. A novelty yarn made by
twisting one colored strand
around a different colored
core.
2. Sometimes applied to
varicolored yarn.
RAPID AGER F See under Ageing. See under Ageing.
RAPIER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A device for inserting
filling
A device for inserting filling
from the side of the loom
during weaving.
RAPIER LOOM F See under Shuttleless
looms.
See under Shuttleless looms.
RAS I A general term in
French used for plain
weave solid colored
fabric made with nap
A general term in French
used for plain weave solid
colored fabric made with nap.
Commonly made in wool.
RASCHEL KNIT fabrics Name of this type of
knitted fabric derived
from the name of the
machine on which this
is produced. The
Raschel machine
uses latch needles set
in a vertical plane
Name of this type of knitted
fabric derived from the name
of the machine on which this
is produced. The Raschel
machine uses latch needles
set in a vertical plane and
produces a wide variety of
fabrics, particularly heavier
and complex structures.
Fabrics are not of
conventional knit
construction, but appears to
be partly woven in texture.
These fabrics are often
printed; and some are very
transparent; they have some
give, but only a little, are
attractive, wear well and do
not crease. The fiber content
is polyester. Used for
blouses, dresses, curtains,
bedspreads, depending on
design. See also under
Knitting.
RASMUSSEN
PROCESS
processes,
operations
A technique of making
a bonded-fiber fabric
A technique of making a
bonded-fiber fabric. A sheet
of polyethylene or
polypropylene is stretched
lengthwise to orient its
molecular chains. When
738
Word Category Short description Description
disintegrated into fibrous
form, the fine fibers are
relatively parallel to each
other. Two or three layers of
fibers are spot-welded
together.
RAT-TAIL CORD w Also called American
cord
Also called American cord. A
tubular woven cord usually of
satin construction.
RATCHET LOCK
SLIDER
F In zippers, a slider
with a locking
mechanism
In zippers, a slider with a
locking mechanism that
permits the slider to slip
along the chain upon
application of a
predetermined force so as to
prevent damage that would
impair either the service or
use of either the slider or
chain.
RATE OF DYEING The rate at which a
dye is absorbed
The rate at which a dye is
absorbed by a substrate
under specified conditions.
RATIN I French word meaning
fuzzy. A rough,
pebbly woolen fabric
made of novelty yarns
with a fancy twist, and
similar in finished
appearance to
Chinchilla.
French word meaning fuzzy.
A rough, pebbly woolen
fabric made of novelty yarns
with a fancy twist, and similar
in finished appearance to
Chinchilla.
Plain weave with an uneven
surface due to the use of
fancy yarns usually of the
spiral or loop type. These
give a randomly uneven
surface effect varying in
coarseness according to the
weight of fabric. Used for
mens overcoats. Basically
this is a coating fabric but
dress or suiting weights can
be made.
RATIN LACE I Machine-made lace,
the groundwork of
which consists of
heavy loops rather
than mesh.
Machine-made lace, the
groundwork of which consists
of heavy loops rather than
mesh.
RATIN YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A curly knotty plied
yarn
A curly knotty plied yarn
made with one heavy and
one or more fine single yarns
739
Word Category Short description Description
twisted together under
uneven tension; the heavy
yarn is fed more freely,
producingloops or nubs.
RATING w A quantitative or
qualitative scale for
evaluation of a
specific property.
1. A quantitative or qualitative
scale for evaluation of a
specific property.
2. The process for
determining or assigning a
grade to a material by
comparing it to a standard
ref-erence scale.
RAVEL COURSES See Roving courses. See Roving courses.
RAVELING v A loose yarn that has
been partially or
wholly detached from
a cloth.
A loose yarn that has been
partially or wholly detached
from a cloth.
The process of removing the
yarns consecutively from the
fabric.
RAVENSDUCK I A very heavy linen
fabric in 2/1 twill
weaves, such as a
sailcloth.
A very heavy linen fabric in
2/1 twill weaves, such as a
sailcloth.
RAW general textile materials in
their natural state.
Term applied to textile
materials in their natural
state.
RAW COTTON v Ginned lint that has
not been subjected to
any textile
manufacturing
process.
Ginned lint that has not been
subjected to any textile
manufacturing process. See
also Ginned lint.
RAW EDGE I Unfinished edge of a
fabric, which may
ravel.
Unfinished edge of a fabric,
which may ravel.
RAW SEAM A visible line made by
joining two parts of a
fabric
A visible line made by joining
two parts of a fabric by
placing two cut (raw) edges
of fabric together and
stitching them.
RAW SILK v Continuous filaments
or strands containing
no twist,
Continuous filaments or
strands containing no twist,
as it has been reeled from
silk cocoons.
RAW STOCK v Unprocessed fiber in
the natural state.
Unprocessed fiber in the
natural state. See Raw.
RAW STOCK
DYEING
The process of dyeing
fibers in a mass
The process of dyeing fibers
in a mass before spinning or
740
Word Category Short description Description
before spinning or
weaving.
weaving.
RAW WOOL v Wool or hair of the
sheep in the grease,
pulled, or scoured
state.
Wool or hair of the sheep in
the grease, pulled, or
scoured state.
RAWKINESS defects Streakiness in a fabric Streakiness in a fabric due to
uneven, irregular yarns.
RAYLEIGH I Irregular bars in
guipure lace
Irregular bars in guipure lace
RAYON FIBER v The earliest man-
made fiber, from
cellulose such as
wood or cotton.
1. The earliest man-made
fiber, from cellulose such as
wood or cotton.
A manufactured fiber
composed of regenerated
cellulose, as well as
manufactured fibers
composed of regenerated
cellulose in which
substituents have replaced
not more than 15 % of the
hydrogens of the hydroxyl
groups.
This definition includes three
types of regenerated
cellulose fiber, Viscose,
Modal and Cupro.
2. The term Rayon is used in
some manufacturing
countries for any
manufactured cellulose fiber,
including, in some cases,
fibers composed of cellulose
acetate.
RAYON FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
man-made fiber, from
cellulose such as
wood or cotton
1. The earliest man-made
fiber, from cellulose such as
wood or cotton. A
manufactured fiber
composed of regenerated
cellulose, as well as
manufactured fibers
composed of regenerated
cellulose in which
substituents have replaced
not more than 15 % of the
hydrogens of the hydroxyl
groups. This definition
includes three types of
741
Word Category Short description Description
regenerated cellulose fiber,
Viscose, Modal and Cupro. 2.
The term Rayon is used in
some manufacturing
countries for any
manufactured cellulose fiber,
including, in some cases,
fibers composed of cellulose
acetate
RAYON STAPLE v Short rayon fiber of
spinnable length
manufactured directly
or by cutting large
groups of continuous
filaments.
Short rayon fiber of spinnable
length manufactured directly
or by cutting large groups of
continuous filaments.
Generally measures to 1 to
20 denier and is usually
produced in lengths of 1 to 5
inches. Spun into yarns of
different textures and sizes.
Often it is blended with
natural and other man-made
fibers. In general, the lengths
and thicknesses are
comparable with natural
fibers. Rayon staple does not
include cut rayon waste
RAYON STRAW v A ribbon-like filament
of viscose rayon.
A ribbon-like filament of
viscose rayon. It is folded
and resembles straw.
RAYON TOW v A tow composed of
parallel filaments of
continuous lengths
A tow composed of parallel
filaments of continuous
lengths, which will be used
for processing into yarns by
any of several tow-
conversion methods. It is
also used for flock.
RAYON-HP v High performance, or
improved kinds of
rayon.
High performance, or
improved kinds of rayon.
These types will include high
tenacity and high-wet
modulus
RAZ I Solid colored wool
serge
Solid colored wool serge
RE v See Residual
Elongation.
See Residual Elongation.
RE-ANIMALIZING A process which was
used for weighting silk
A process which was used
for weighting silk and
supposedly to strengthen the
742
Word Category Short description Description
fiber by immersion in a bath
containing phosphate of soda
with glue or casein.
RE-EMBROIDERED
LACE
I Flat lace that has
been re-worked with
another intricate
design using a variety
of threads.
Flat lace that has been re-
worked with another intricate
design using a variety of
threads. An elaborate and
expensive fabric, due to the
two operations involved.
REACTION
SPINNING
processes,
operations
A process of fiber
production
A process of fiber production
in which polymerization is
achieved during the extrusion
of one set of reactants into
another set of reactants.
REACTIVE DYES These are dyes that,
under suitable
conditions, are
capable of reacting
chemically with
cellulose fibers.
These are dyes that, under
suitable conditions, are
capable of reacting
chemically with cellulose
fibers. This produces a
covalent dye-fiber bond,
which gives dyeings and
prints of excellent washing
fastness. May be used on
wool, silk and nylon with
varying degrees of fastness
properties. The differences in
reactivity of different shades
of dyes are indicated, usually
by using different letters, e.g.
Procion M (more reactive)
and Procion H (less
reactive) dyes. Reactive dyes
are suitable for cotton, linen,
wool, silk, viscose rayon, and
cuprammonium rayon fibers.
REAVY YARN v A yarn made by
twisting together a
single and two-ply
yarn
A yarn made by twisting
together a single and two-ply
yarn. Also see Reamy yarn.
RECESS SHEARING See Hollow-cut
velveteen.
See Hollow-cut velveteen.
RECLAIMED
TEXTILE FIBERS
v A broad term which
includes: extract wool,
mungo, noil,
reprocessed wool,
reused wool, shoddy,
etc.
A broad term which includes:
extract wool, mungo, noil,
reprocessed wool, reused
wool, shoddy, etc.
743
Word Category Short description Description
RECLAIMED WOOL v This broad term
implies wool obtained
from various sources
This broad term implies wool
obtained from various
sources; clippings,
reprocessed wool, shoddy,
mungo, extract wool, etc.
RECLINING TWILL fabrics A twill weave A twill weave which produces
a twill line running at an
angle less than 45.
RECOMBING A second combing of
worsted tops for
removing vegetable
particles that were not
removed by the first
combing.
A second combing of worsted
tops for removing vegetable
particles that were not
removed by the first combing.
This process improves the
ease with which the tops may
be handled in further
processing.
RECOMMENDED
ALLOWANCE
o The percentage that,
in the calculation of
commercial mass of
textile material and of
yarn linear density is
added to the oven-dry
mass.
The percentage that, in the
calculation of commercial
mass of textile material and
of yarn linear density is
added to the oven-dry mass.
The determination of this
mass may or may not have
been preceded by washing to
remove natural or added oils
and dressings. The
recommended allowance is
arbitrarily chosen according
to commercial practice and
includes the moisture regain.
It may also include the
normal finish that is added to
impart satisfactory textile
qualities to the material.
RECONSTITUTED
FIBERS
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibers produced from
recovered waste
polymer
Fibers produced from
recovered waste polymer or
blends of virgin polymer and
recovered waste polymer.
RECOVERABLE
ELONGATION
o In rope, elongation
which may be
reclaimed after a
period of relaxation.
In rope, elongation which
may be reclaimed after a
period of relaxation.
RECOVERED WOOL v SeeReused wool. SeeReused wool.
RECOVERY fibers,
filaments,
yarns
ability of a yarn or
fiber to return to its
original length
The ability of a yarn or fiber
to return to its original length
after it has been stretched.
RECYCLED WOOL v The resulting fiber The resulting fiber when wool
744
Word Category Short description Description
when wool has been
woven or felted into a
wool product
has been woven or felted into
a wool product which, without
ever having been utilized in
any way by the ultimate
consumer, subsequently has
been made into a fibrous
state, or the resulting fiber
when wool or reprocessed
wool has been spun, woven,
knitted, or felted into a wool
product which, after having
been used in any way by the
ultimate consumer,
subsequently has been made
into a fibrous state.
REDEPOSITION processes,
operations
The tendency of soil,
already removed from
the fabric and being in
suspension to go back
on the fabric,
1. The tendency of soil,
already removed from the
fabric and being in
suspension to go back on the
fabric, thus lowering the
fabrics retention of
whiteness. 2. In laundering of
fabrics, deposition of soil, dirt
or grime on fabrics when the
wash water has a high
percentage of dirt, etc. that
has already been removed in
washing
REDOUBLING An operation
combined with
doubling that is
necessary in making
even, uniform yarn.
An operation combined with
doubling that is necessary in
making even, uniform yarn.
See Dou-bling.
REDUCTION In textile technology,
this term is confined to
the removal of oxygen
from a substance, or
the addition of
hydrogen
In textile technology, this
term is confined to the
removal of oxygen from a
substance, or the addition of
hydrogen
REDUCTION
CLEARING
processes,
operations
Removal of unfixed
dyestuff
Removal of unfixed dyestuff,
usually disperse, by
alkali/reducing system,
usually sodium
hydroxide/sodium dithionite.
REED F In a loom, a comb-like
wired frame through
which warp yarns
pass.
In a loom, a comb-like wired
frame through which warp
yarns pass. Each partition is
a dent. It separates the warp
745
Word Category Short description Description
yarns and is used during
weaving to beat-up the weft
yarn into the cloth after each
passage of weft yarn across
the loom
REED GRATINGS F Transparent plates
containing lines that
are parallel and
uniformly spaced in
the cross-wise
direction.
Transparent plates
containing lines that are
parallel and uniformly spaced
in the cross-wise direction.
By placing an appropriate
grating on a reed it is
possible to see if there is any
irregularity in the spacing of
the reed wires. Reed gratings
can also be used for counting
the number of reed wires per
unit distance. See also
Parallel line gratings.
REED MARK t Fabric defect in woven
fabrics.
Fabric defect in woven
fabrics. A crack, streak, line,
or mark between groups of
warp ends, either continuous
or at intervals. Caused
mainly due to crowded dents,
open dents, improper warp
tension, worn out reed, loose
reed wires, incorrect reeding,
etc.
REED NUMBER F The number of dents
per unit length of the
reed.
The number of dents per unit
length of the reed.
REED OMBR processes,
operations
A woven ombr effect
produced in the reed
A woven ombr effect
generally produced in the
reed by a variation in warp
pattern from open to close
and then from close to open.
Appears almost as shading
running warpwise.
REED RAKE t A defect in fabric
similar to a pin
scratch.
A defect in fabric similar to a
pin scratch.
REED WIDTH I The width of the warp
as it lies in the loom
prior to the weaving.
The width of the warp as it
lies in the loom prior to the
weaving.
REEDINESS t Fabric defect. Fabric defect. A noticeable
grouping of warp threads due
to the reed wires producing
746
Word Category Short description Description
warp-way cracks. It can be
caused by the use of a reed
unsuited to the fabric
construction employed.
REEDING PLAN I Also called Denting
plan, Sleying plan.
Also called Denting plan,
Sleying plan. A plan
indicating the arrangement of
warp yarns into the reed
dents, in one weave repeat.
REEDY CLOTH defects A defective fabric that
shows reed marks.
A defective fabric that shows
reed marks. There are
several causes such as
drawing an insufficient
number of warp yarns
through each dent, too heavy
a reed, improper finish,
irregular reeding.
REEDY WARP t See Reed mark. See Reed mark.
REEL v See Hank. 1. See Hank.
2. A cylindrical former,
usually flanged, suitable for
use with domestic sewing
machines, onto which sewing
thread is wound.
3. The revolving drum, mill or
swift of a section warping
machine.
REEL DYEING processes,
operations
A form of open box
dyeing
A form of open box dyeing
used especially for light
fabrics to avoid tension on
the goods or for crpe to
avoid flattening. Also used on
woolen goods
REELED SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Raw silk wound
directly from the
cocoons into skeins
Raw silk wound directly from
the cocoons into skeins. The
yarn has only a slight twist,
and has not yet been twisted
or thrown. Raw silk is usually
marketed in this form
REELING The process of
unwinding raw silk
from the unbroken
cocoons, which have
been placed in hot
water
1. The process of unwinding
raw silk from the unbroken
cocoons, which have been
placed in hot water, and
reeling filaments from several
cocoons as a single thread,
without any twist, held firm by
the natural gum which coats
747
Word Category Short description Description
the silk filaments. This is the
first process in preparing silk
yarn.
2. Unwinding of yarn from
bobbins or cones, etc. and
rewinding it in the form of a
skein or hank.
REELING MACHINE F Also called Hanking
machine. A revolving
frame onto which a
number of hanks or
skeins or reels of yarn
are wound
simultaneously.
Also called Hanking machine.
A revolving frame onto which
a number of hanks or skeins
or reels of yarn are wound
simultaneously. The frame
normally comprises a number
of parallel bars, some of or all
of which are collapsible to
facilitate removal of the
wound hank, mounted
circumferentially on a
cylindrical form. Traversing
yarn guides provide a pattern
which enables the hank to be
leased so that it can be
unwound without
entanglement after storage
or, e.g. wet processing.
REFINE I A napped woolen
fabric of fine quality,
mainly used for livery.
A napped woolen fabric of
fine quality, mainly used for
livery.
REFINISHING processes,
operations
treatment, such as
steaming and
pressing, given to a
textile fabric
Any treatment, such as
steaming and pressing, given
to a textile fabric to restore
the finish.
REFRACTION o The deflection from a
straight path
undergone by a light
ray in passing
obliquely from one
medium (as air) into
another (as glass) in
which its velocity is
different.
The deflection from a straight
path undergone by a light ray
in passing obliquely from one
medium (as air) into another
(as glass) in which its velocity
is different.
REFRACTIVE INDEX o The ratio of the
velocity of radiation
(as light) in the first of
two media to its
velocity in the second
as it passes from one
into the other.
The ratio of the velocity of
radiation (as light) in the first
of two media to its velocity in
the second as it passes from
one into the other.
748
Word Category Short description Description
REFURBISH processes,
operations
To brighten or freshen
up and restore to
wearability
To brighten or freshen up
and restore to wearability or
use by cleaning such as Dry
cleaning, Laundering, or
Steam cleaning.
REGAIN v See Moisture regain. See Moisture regain.
REGATTA I A striped cotton-type
fabric woven in 2/1
twill.
A striped cotton-type fabric
woven in 2/1 twill. The
pattern consists of fast-dyed
color and white in warp
stripes of equal width. The
fabric has a white undyed
weft.
REGENERATED
CELLULOSE FIBERS
v See Rayon fiber,
Viscose fiber, Modal
fiber and Cupro fiber.
See Rayon fiber, Viscose
fiber, Modal fiber and Cupro
fiber.
REGENERATED
FIBER
v See under Fiber. See under Fiber.
REGENERATED
PROTEIN FIBERS
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibers made from the
protein of peanuts,
maize, soya beans
and milk
Fibers made from the protein
of peanuts, maize, soya
beans and milk. They all
possess wool-like
characteristics of softness,
warmth and resilience but it
has not yet been found
possible to produce a fiber of
this type sufficiently strong to
be used alone. Very little of
this type of fiber is being
manufactured in bulk
REGIMENTAL
STRIPE
I A textile pattern
consisting of wide
stripes of color
different from the
ground of the fabric.
A textile pattern consisting of
wide stripes of color different
from the ground of the fabric.
The colors of most of these
stripes were taken from
colors of Britsh regiments.
Used primarily for neck-wear
and hat bands.
REGINA I A fine cotton good
quality 2/1 twill weave
fabric.
A fine cotton good quality 2/1
twill weave fabric. Two fold
yarns may be used and the
fabric is around 100 g/m2.
REGISTERING See Pitching See Pitching
REGISTRATION The correct fitting
together of all areas
and colors in a printed
fabric
The correct fitting together of
all areas and colors in a
printed fabric
749
Word Category Short description Description
REGULAR FINISHES I See Basic finishes
under Finish.
See Basic finishes under
Finish.
REGULAR TWILL fabrics A trade term for a twill
weave
A trade term for a twill weave
that produces diagonal lines
running 45 angles without
any fancy figures.
REGULAR TWIST v For cotton same as Z
twist.
For cotton same as Z twist.
For wool, same as S twist.
REINFORCED
HOSIERY
I Hosiery with a
reinforced heel and
toe knitted with an
extra and sometimes
coarser yarn.
Hosiery with a reinforced
heel and toe knitted with an
extra and sometimes coarser
yarn. A later development
has been the use of nylon
reinforcement in the toe and
heel of both cotton and wool
hose to increases the
abrasion resistance.
REINFORCED SEAM In sewn seams, a
seam that includes an
additional layer of
material
In sewn seams, a seam that
includes an additional layer
of material on the face or
backside of the seam
allowance.
REINFORCED
TWILLS
fabrics Combinations of
regular twill and plain
weaves.
Combinations of regular twill
and plain weaves. Generally
warp-faced, with the twill line
running from lower right to
upper left. The fabrics are
bleached or dyed and used
for dresses.
REJ ECTION
NUMBER
o In acceptance
sampling, the
minimum number of
nonconforming items
in a sample
In acceptance sampling, the
minimum number of
nonconforming items in a
sample that requires the
conclusion that the lot does
not conform to specification.
RELATED SHDES o Colors of similar tone
in the same or
different depths of
color.
Colors of similar tone in the
same or different depths of
color.
RELATIVE HUMIDITY o The ratio of the water
vapour present in an
atmosphere to the
amount present in a
saturated atmosphere
at the same
temperature.
The ratio of the water vapour
present in an atmosphere to
the amount present in a
saturated atmosphere at the
same temperature. It is
generally expressed as a
percentage.
RELAXATION Releasing of strains in Releasing of strains in textile
750
Word Category Short description Description
textile materials. materials.
1. The relief of any strain
present in fiber, yarn or fabric
resulting from all stages of
processing, nec-essary to
impart dimensional stability to
the final textile material.
2. An operation performed on
a knitted sweater made of
textured filament nylon yarn.
This is a form of conditioning
a fabric that is important to
effective dyeing, shape, final
appearance, and dimen-
sional stability. Relaxation
from tension is obtained by
washing sweaters in a
solution of soap and water or
non-ionic detergent for five
minutes at 90 F., then
rinsing for two minutes.
RELAXATION
DIMENSIONAL
CHANGE
I The dimensional
change that occurs
when a fabric is
immersed in water
without agitation
The dimensional change that
occurs when a fabric is
immersed in water without
agitation so that the strains
and stresses put into fibers,
yarns, or fabrics during
previous processing stages
such as spinning, weaving, or
knitting, and finishing are
relieved.
RELAXED STATE I in knit fabric, the
dimensional state of a
fabric when the forces
within the loop
structure are in
equilibrium
In knit fabric, the dimensional
state of a fabric when the
forces within the loop
structure are in equilibrium
and it is considered that the
fabric can consolidate no
more, without the application
of force.
RELAXED YARN v A filament yarn of
nylon or polyester
which has been
subjected to a yarn
relaxation treatment.
A filament yarn of nylon or
polyester which has been
subjected to a yarn relaxation
treatment. The treatment
imparts uniform dyeing
characteristics to the yarn
and an also reduces and
equalizes shrinkage and
torque.
751
Word Category Short description Description
RELEASING SLIDER F In zippers, a slider
with a mechanical
means for loosening
the slider on the
chain.
In zippers, a slider with a
mechanical means for
loosening the slider on the
chain.
RELEASING STOP F In zippers, a device
attached at or near
the top of the stringer
on the separable pin
side which limits the
travel of the slider at
the open end of the
chain under normal
closing operations.
In zippers, a device attached
at or near the top of the
stringer on the separable pin
side which limits the travel of
the slider at the open end of
the chain under normal
closing operations. The slider
may be forced beyond the
releasing stop when added
force is exerted towards the
top of the zipper. Releasing
stops are used on QR or QD
zippers.
RELIEF FABRIC fabrics Also known as Blister
fabric and Cloqu
fabric. A patterned rib-
based fabric,
Also known as Blister fabric
and Cloqu fabric. A
patterned rib-based fabric,
the surface of which exhibits
a characteristic relief or
blister effect in which the
number of loops in the relief
portion is greater than in the
surrounding area on the
effect side and on the
reverse side. The relief area
may be of a different color
from the main ground and the
ground also is patterned.
RELIEF PRINTING A method in which
only the high parts of
engraved plates are
inked and printed
A method in which only the
high parts of engraved plates
are inked and printed.
Opposite to intaglio printing.
Also see Cameo printing and
Surface printing.
REMANUFACTURED
WOOL
v This is wool which has
been used or
processed before, as
opposed to virgin
wool or pure new
wool which is wool
being used for the first
time.
This is wool which has been
used or processed before, as
opposed to virgin wool or
pure new wool which is wool
being used for the first time.
Wool and to some extent,
hairs, have the capacity to be
used more than once and in
view of the cost of new wool,
this is a distinct practical
752
Word Category Short description Description
advantage which is not
shared by any other textile
fiber type.
There are three main sources
of raw materials for this
industry:
Shoddy: Fibers obtained by
shredding soft rags, i.e.
knitted or loosely woven wool
fabrics.
Mungo: Fibers obtained by
shredding hard rags, i.e.
closely woven or thick heavily
milled fabrics.
Noils: The shorter fibers of
the wool staple extracted
during the worsted combing
process.
The rags used to obtain
shoddy and mungo fibers are
either old fabrics or new
clippings but in re-ducing the
rags to fibers there is
considerable fiber damage
and breakage. These fibers
then are short, and vary
considerably in thickness and
quality and lack the full
qualities of resilience and
softness which new wool
possesses. Noils are better in
that the fibers are merely
shorter than aver-age and
not damaged, but they are
not fully representative of the
quality of wool from which
they were extracted.
Due to the shortness of
shoddy and mungo fibers
they would be difficult to hold
securely in a yarn and would
easily be rubbed out in use
so that the fabric would
gradually disintegrate in
wear. It is easy to see
therefore how the term
shoddy came to represent
something poor in quality.
These fibers are mostly
753
Word Category Short description Description
blended with new wool to
prevent rapid loss of fibers. In
this use they are a valuable
contribution to the textile
industry because if they are
skillfully used, attractive
medium and low priced
woolen fabrics can be made
which have sufficient
durability, particularly for
fashion garments. Fabrics so
made are not obviously
inferior and at present state
of legislature can be la-belled
all wool in many countries.
Hair noils can be used as a
fiber content in a fabric and
labelled as the hair so that
the fiber name in itself on the
label is no clear guarantee of
quality. Many coun-tries
demands clear labeling
distinguishing between new,
re-used, and re-processed
fibers.
REMBRANDT RIB I A knitted vertical-rib
effect in womens
hosiery
A knitted vertical-rib effect in
womens hosiery made by
alternating five drop stitches
and one inch of plain knitting.
REMNANTS I In the marketing of
textile material, those
accumulated short
odd lengths of cloth,
remaining from
original full-length
piece.
In the marketing of textile
material, those accumulated
short odd lengths of cloth,
remaining from original full-
length piece. See also Fents.
RENAISSANCE
CLOTH
I A French term for
fabric made from
reclaimed wool.
A French term for fabric
made from reclaimed wool.
RENAISSANCE LACE I Motifs joined by a
variety of stitches.
Motifs joined by a variety of
stitches.
REP I See Repp. See Repp.
REP STITCH A canvas stitch that is
worked vertically on
double-thread canvas.
A canvas stitch that is
worked vertically on double-
thread canvas. Also called
Aubusson stitch. See also
Canvas stitch.
754
Word Category Short description Description
REPCO PROCESS See under False
twisting.
See under False twisting.
REPEAT I IN WEAVING. A
pattern which is
repeated in the fabric
weave.
1. IN WEAVING. A pattern
which is repeated in the
fabric weave.
2. IN PRINTING. The exact
reproduction of any unit of
design placed in an accurate
geometric rela-tionship to it.
An example for this is the
Square Repeat.
REPELLENT general Possessing the
property of resistance.
Possessing the property of
resistance. Special finishes
impart various types of
repellency to textiles, e.g.
water repellency, stain, oil,
and moth.
REPOUSS fabrics A hammered or
pressed pattern effect.
A hammered or pressed
pattern effect.
REPP fabrics Also called Rep.
Usually a heavy or
medium fabric with a
very prominently
pronounced rib.
Also called Rep. Usually a
heavy or medium fabric with
a very prominently
pronounced rib. The true
repp, which is now not
commonly made, was a plain
weave fabric made with two
warps, one fine and one
coarse, the yarns arranged
alternately and the fine warp
more heavily tensioned than
the coarse. Two wefts are
used, one fine, one coarse
alternately and the weave
arranged so that the coarse
warp was always lifted over
the coarse weft. This gave
very prominent ribs. More
usually the term repp is given
to almost every fabric of the
plain weave type having
prominent ribs, made on the
plain weave fine warp and
thicker weft principle and of a
coarser and heavier
construction than poplin,
faille and poult.
REPPING t Fabric defect. Fabric defect. The
unintentional introduction into
755
Word Category Short description Description
a woven fabric of a bar in
which a prominent weftway-
rib effect is evident. This fault
is often associated with
standing places and is the
result of differential relaxation
of the upper and lower
sheets of warp while the
loom is standing.
REPRESENTATIVE
SAMPLE
o A sample taken such
that every individual in
the parent population
has the same chance
of being included in
the sample
A sample taken such that
every individual in the parent
population has the same
chance of being included in
the sample
REPROCESSED
WOOL
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Woolen fibers
obtained from existing
knitted or woven
garments
Woolen fibers obtained from
existing knitted or woven
garments, which, however,
have never been worn by the
consumer. These are now
very rare, as it is difficult and
very expensive to reprocess
blends.
RESERVE DYEING Same as Resist
dyeing.
Same as Resist dyeing.
RESIDUAL DRAW
RATIO
v See under Draw ratio See under Draw ratio
RESIDUAL
ELONGATION (RE)
v In rope, the elongation
remaining after the
rope has been
stabilized at a
designated load level.
In rope, the elongation
remaining after the rope has
been stabilized at a
designated load level.
RESIDUAL
SHRINKAGE
I The percentage of
shrinkage that
remains in the fabric
after it has been
subjected to a
shrinking process.
The percentage of shrinkage
that remains in the fabric
after it has been subjected to
a shrinking process.
Frequently used to mean just
the percentage that the
material will shrink when
washed.
RESIDUAL TORSION v Revolutions made by
a specified length of
cord when one end is
held in a flexed
position and the other
allowed to turn freely.
Revolutions made by a
specified length of cord when
one end is held in a flexed
position and the other
allowed to turn freely.
RESIDUE v In plumage, quill pith, In plumage, quill pith, quill
756
Word Category Short description Description
quill fragments, trash,
or foreign matter.
fragments, trash, or foreign
matter.
RESILIENCE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
That property of a
material by virtue of
which it is able to do
work against
restraining forces
That property of a material by
virtue of which it is able to do
work against restraining
forces during return from a
deformed state, i.e. the ability
to recover from deformation.
High resiliency is a natural
property of wool and silk.
Staples that are not
inherently resilient can be
chemically treated to resist
creasing and crushing.
RESIST DYEING processes,
operations
Also called Reserve
dyeing. Yarns are
treated with a resist
dye,
Also called Reserve dyeing.
Yarns are treated with a
resist dye, then woven with
untreated yarn into a fabric
which is subsequently piece
dyed. Washing removes the
resist material, leaving a
fabric with white and colored
threads. A contrasting color
may also be applied with the
resist agent for two-tone
effects
RESIST STYLE processes,
operations
The process by which
a pattern is produced
by dyeing
The process by which a
pattern is produced by dyeing
after painting or printing the
cloth with a mechanical resist
(such as wax or clay), or
chemical resist (such as an
acid).
RESIST STYLE
PRINTING
In this method of
printing, the pattern
area is painted or
stamped with a resist
made from rice paste,
clay or some type of
wax.
In this method of printing, the
pattern area is painted or
stamped with a resist made
from rice paste, clay or some
type of wax. Then the cloth is
dyed, so leaving the pattern
areas reserved in white
against a dyed background.
RESIST-DYED YARN I Yarn that has been
treated with tannin, a
mordant, etc. to repel
the dyestuff to be
used.
Yarn that has been treated
with tannin, a mordant, etc. to
repel the dyestuff to be used.
The result should be a
harmonious effect.
RESISTANCE TO
SPLITTING
I See Splitting
resistance.
See Splitting resistance.
757
Word Category Short description Description
RESISTANCE TO
YARN SLIPPAGE
The force required to
separate the parts of a
standard seam by a
specified amount.
The force required to
separate the parts of a
standard seam by a specified
amount.
RESORPTION The process by which
a material that has
given material by
desorption takes up
some more of the
material given.
The process by which a
material that has given
material by desorption takes
up some more of the material
given.
RESTORATION
FORCE
I The energy brought to
bear on a fabric to
accomplish a
dimensional
restoration.
The energy brought to bear
on a fabric to accomplish a
dimensional restoration.
RESULTANT YARN
NUMBER
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The yarn number
based on the
observed mass per
unit length of a plied
yarn
The yarn number based on
the observed mass per unit
length of a plied yarn, a
cabled yarn, or a yarn whose
number has been changed
by processing such as
twisting or bulking.
RETAINER PIN F In zippers, a tube-like
element, similar to the
separable pin
In zippers, a tube-like
element, similar to the
separable pin, attached over
the bead at the bottom end of
the stringer opposite to the
separable pin and that is
designed to hold the fixed
retainer in position.
RETEXTURING The passage of an
already textured yarn
through a further
texturing processes
1. The passage of an already
textured yarn through a
further texturing processes.
The second textur-ing
process may be the same
type of process or different
from the first texturing
process.
2. A process for treating dry-
cleaned garments, etc., to
improve their handle, etc
RETICELLA LACE I A very early type of
needlepoint lace.
A very early type of
needlepoint lace. It was a
combination of drawn-thread
lace work and cut-work.
RETTING processes,
operations
The process of
decomposing woody
The process of decomposing
woody and gummy matter
758
Word Category Short description Description
and gummy matter surrounding the bast fibers of
a flax plant stalk and
extracting flax fiber from it.
The crop or deseeded straw
are subjected to chemical or
biological treatment to make
fiber bundles more easily
separable from the woody
part of the stem.
REUSED WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Recovered
wool
Also called Recovered wool.
Fibers obtained from
garments worn by
consumers. The cast off
apparel finds its way to the
garnetting plant, where the
material is returned to the
fibrous stage. Shoddy and
mungo are the names
applied to the unfelted and
felted fiber residue following
the garnetting operation,
which breaks up the
garments and produces the
fibers
REVERSE I A coarse, loosely
woven, wool fabric
with napped face,
similar to flannel.
1. A coarse, loosely woven,
wool fabric with napped face,
similar to flannel. Used for
inexpensive clothing.
2. Synonym for the back of
the fabric.
REVERSE BLEND I Mostly used in denim
warp yarn.
Mostly used in denim warp
yarn. A blend of 75% cotton
and 25% polyester. When the
yarns are spun, the cotton
fibres tend to be at the
outside of the yarn. A 35/65
blend is used in boys and
young mens jeans. The warp
provides the color and hand
of the denim; a spun weave
makes the fabric appear like
all-cotton. In reverse blending
the natural fibber (cotton or
wool) has the predominant
concentration.
REVERSE CRPE I A fabric generally of
filament yarn, made
with a crpe yarn
A fabric generally of filament
yarn, made with a crpe yarn
warp and a flat yarn filling.
759
Word Category Short description Description
warp and a flat yarn
filling.
REVERSE
J ACQUARD
I A weft-knitted rib-
based fabric in which
the design on the
effect side is reversed
on the other side by
alternation of the two
component threads
between the two
sides.
A weft-knitted rib-based
fabric in which the design on
the effect side is reversed on
the other side by alternation
of the two component
threads between the two
sides. See also Double-faced
jacquard.
REVERSE KNIT I A pattern area of weft-
knitted fabric with the
reverse side outwards
A pattern area of weft-knitted
fabric with the reverse side
outwards, knitted on
machines having two sets of
needles.
REVERSE LOCKNIT I A warp-knitted fabric
of two-bar
construction made
with full-set threading.
A warp-knitted fabric of two-
bar construction made with
full-set threading. The front
bar makes a 1x1 movement
and the back bar a 2x1
movement in opposition.
REVERSE PLATING Patterns created in
knit goods by
controlling the feed of
the yarns
Patterns created in knit
goods by controlling the feed
of the yarns in such a way
that the position of a pattern
is interchanged.
REVERSE SIDE I The side of a weft-
knitted fabric opposite
to the effect side.
The side of a weft-knitted
fabric opposite to the effect
side. See Plain fabric, Weft-
knitted.
REVERSE TOE z In hosiery, a form of
toe
In hosiery, a form of toe in
which the join between the
toe and foot is on the
underside of the foot.
REVERSE TWILL
WEAVES
fabrics Broken, pointed, and
similar twill weaves,
Broken, pointed, and similar
twill weaves, i.e. twill weaves
in which the twill line runs
alternately in right-hand and
left-hand directions.
REVERSE TWIST v Same as S twist. See
also Direction of twist
Same as S twist. See also
Direction of twist
REVERSE WELT z See under Welt See under Welt
REVERSIBLE
BONDED FABRIC
I A bonded double-
faced cloth
construction in which
two face fabrics are
A bonded double-faced cloth
construction in which two
face fabrics are bonded
together so that either side
760
Word Category Short description Description
bonded together so
that either side can be
used.
can be used. Stiffness
resulting from bonding limits
the use to this fabric.
REVERSIBLE
FABRIC
fabrics A double-faced fabric
that can be used on
either side
A double-faced fabric that
can be used on either side.
The design or texture
generally is not the same on
the face and back.
REVERSIBLE
TWILLS
I A general term for
fine, high count, plied
yarn fabric made with
combed cotton in an
even-sided four-
harness twill in which
the twill line runs from
lower left to upper
right.
A general term for fine, high
count, plied yarn fabric made
with combed cotton in an
even-sided four-harness twill
in which the twill line runs
from lower left to upper right.
The number of warp yarns
per inch is about twice as
great as the weft yarns.
Egyptian, Pima and other
superior grades of cotton are
often used. Frequently dyed
tan or olive drab and given a
water-repellent finish for
army field jackets, rain coats
and windbreakers.
REVOLVING
SHUTTLE BOX
F See Circular shuttle
box
See Circular shuttle box
REWETTING AGENT A surfactant which
find usage in textile
preparation, dyeing
and finishing.
A surfactant which find usage
in textile preparation, dyeing
and finishing. The surfactant,
which after application and
drying onto textiles, promotes
rapid wetting on subsequent
exposure to an aqueous
solution.
REWORKED WOOL v See Reprocessed
wool and Reused
wool.
See Reprocessed wool and
Reused wool.
RF HEATING See Radio frequency
heating.
See Radio frequency
heating.
RHE (Rhe) o The unit of fluidity; the
reciprocal of the unit
of viscosity (the
poise).
The unit of fluidity; the
reciprocal of the unit of
viscosity (the poise).
RHEA v A fiber better known
as Ramie or China-
grass.
A fiber better known as
Ramie or China-grass.
RHYTHM CRPE fabrics Name given to a fabric Name given to a fabric with
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Word Category Short description Description
with regularly spaced
puckering.
regularly spaced puckering.
Is made from viscose and
resembles Seersucker
RIB fabrics Straight cord or ridge
running warpwise or
weftwise in a fabric.
Straight cord or ridge running
warpwise or weftwise in a
fabric.
RIB FABRIC, WEFT-
KNITTED
I A fabric in which both
back and face loops
occur along the
course, but in which
all the loops contained
within any single wale
are of the same type,
i.e. either face or
back.
A fabric in which both back
and face loops occur along
the course, but in which all
the loops contained within
any single wale are of the
same type, i.e. either face or
back.
Broad rib fabric, weft-knitted:
A rib fabric in which groups of
three or more adjacent wales
are of the same type, either
face or back.
6x3 rib fabric, weft-knitted:
Also called Derby rib. A fabric
in which all the loops of six
adjacent wales are
intermeshed in one direction
and all the loops of the next
three wales knitted at the
same course are
intermeshed in the opposite
direction, and so on
alternately.
1x1 rib fabric, weft-knitted:
Also called English rib. A rib
fabric in which single wales
of face loops alternate with
single wales of back loops.
2x2 rib fabric, weft-knitted:
Also called Swiss rib. A rib
fabric in which two adjacent
wales of face loops alternate
with two adjacent wales of
back loops in a series.
RIB FABRIC, WOVEN I A fabric whose
surface consists of
warp way (weft rib) or
weftway (warp rib)
raised lines or ridges.
A fabric whose surface
consists of warp way (weft
rib) or weftway (warp rib)
raised lines or ridges.
RIB GAITING See under Gating. See under Gating.
RIB J ACQUARD I A weft-knitted
patterned rib-based
A weft-knitted patterned rib-
based fabric, the surface of
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Word Category Short description Description
fabric, the surface of
which is essentially
flat and exhibits a
figure or design in
differing color or
texture.
which is essentially flat and
exhibits a figure or design in
differing color or texture. The
patterned surface is derived
from the chosen arrangement
of yarns, and of knitted and
float loops. The back of the
fabric may be made from
either (a) plain or striped
backing, or (b) Birdseye
backing.
RIB KNITTTING
MACHINE
F Same as Double
jersey knitting
machine
Same as Double jersey
knitting machine
RIB TRANSFER In knitting, the process
of transferring the
loops of one course of
a rib fabric on to the
needles of a plain
machine in
preparation for plain
knitting
In knitting, the process of
transferring the loops of one
course of a rib fabric on to
the needles of a plain
machine in preparation for
plain knitting
RIB TRANSFER
STITCH
In weft-knitting, a
stitch made by the
transfer of the loop
from a needle in one
set to a needle in
another set
In weft-knitting, a stitch made
by the transfer of the loop
from a needle in one set to a
needle in another set, the
latter having a loop already
on it. It is an effect stitch.
RIB VELVET I A rarely used name
for Corduroy.
A rarely used name for
Corduroy.
RIB WEAVE fabrics A variation of plain
weave.
A variation of plain weave.
The rib effect may be either
in the direction warp or the
weft. The effect is produceed
by having two or more
successive ends or picks
weave alike; i.e. ends
alternating under and over
two or more picks, or picks
alternating under and over
two or more ends. Ribs may
also be produced by
employing coarser yarn for
the rib than for the ground.
RIB WEFT KNITTED
FABRIC
I A construction in
which all the loops in
any one wale are all
the same, either back
A construction in which all
the loops in any one wale are
all the same, either back
loops or face loops. However
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Word Category Short description Description
loops or face loops the loops are mixed back and
face within the fabric. The
appearance of the fabric is
reminiscent of animal ribs,
hence the name
RIBBED HOSIERY I A class of hosiery
produced on knitting
machines employing
the Rib stitch.
A class of hosiery produced
on knitting machines
employing the Rib stitch.
Heavier than fine-gauge
hosiery, but possessing
greater elasticity.
RIBBON w A narrow fabric,
usually woven, and
generally with a
continuous filament
warp in a variety of
styles for decorative
and functional uses.
A narrow fabric, usually
woven, and generally with a
continuous filament warp in a
variety of styles for
decorative and functional
uses. Ribbon may also be
made by slitting broad fabric.
The product may have a
fused edge. Usually ribbons
are woven fabrics less than 4
inches (100 mm) wide.
The French term ruban and
German band are
sometimes incorrectly
translated as ribbon but are
terms which embrace a wider
range of woven fabrics
including elastic, tape and
webbing.
See also Narrow fabric and
Tape
RIBBON
EMBROIDERED
LACE
I A very elaborate fabric
of lace background
with matching narrow
ribbon crushed and
stitched in scroll
designs on the right
side of the lace.
A very elaborate fabric of
lace background with
matching narrow ribbon
crushed and stitched in scroll
designs on the right side of
the lace. The ribbon is likely
to be nylon or polyester to
avoid crushing. The lace
could be almost any fiber.
RIBBON LOOM F A machine for making
narrow fabrics.
A machine for making narrow
fabrics.
RIBBONING t See Winding pattern See Winding pattern
RIBBONZINE z Non-woven ribbon
made by binding silk
or rayon warp with
adhesive and finishing
Non-woven ribbon made by
binding silk or rayon warp
with adhesive and finishing
with high luster. Made in solid
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Word Category Short description Description
with high luster. colors, in various widths.
Used for tying packages.
RIC-RAC BRAID I A flat braid made by
tensioning component
threads differently so
that the fabric forms a
zig-zag shape.
A flat braid made by
tensioning component
threads differently so that the
fabric forms a zig-zag shape.
See also Van Dyke braid.
RICE F See Swift See Swift
RICE BRAID w A braid consisting of a
core yarn having
alternately thick and
thin places entirely
covered with fine yarn
wound around
A braid consisting of a core
yarn having alternately thick
and thin places entirely
covered with fine yarn wound
around. Generally made of
white cotton yarn, also in
colors. Used for trimming and
fancywork
RICE CLOTH fabrics A plain weave, cotton
dress fabric made with
hard spun warp and a
fine, nubby novelty
yarn
A plain weave, cotton dress
fabric made with hard spun
warp and a fine, nubby
novelty yarn that produces
effects resembling grains of
rice on the face of the
material. Made in solid colors
and prints. Similar to a fine
Ratin.
RICE NET I Woven of coarse
cotton thread stiffened
by sizing and used as
hat foundations.
Woven of coarse cotton
thread stiffened by sizing and
used as hat foundations.
RICE WEAVE I A variation of simple
six-end and eight-end
twill weaves formed
by a decortication
method.
A variation of simple six-end
and eight-end twill weaves
formed by a decortication
method.
RICHELIEU I An openwork fabric
made in imitation of
hand embroidery of
the same name.
An openwork fabric made in
imitation of hand embroidery
of the same name. The
designs are geometric, the
embroidery may be in a yarn
which matches or contrasts
with the backing fabric. The
fibers used may be cotton,
viscose, polyester, modal or
a mixture of fibers. It is a
medium-weight crisp fabric.
Used for blouses, dresses,
and childrens dresses. Also
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Word Category Short description Description
used effectively in small
areas, such as yokes or
pockets, with a plain
matching or contrasting
fabric.
RIDGED WEAVE t Fabric defect. A streak
or mark in the
direction of the filling,
sometimes visible at
regular intervals in the
woven cloth.
Fabric defect. A streak or
mark in the direction of the
filling, sometimes visible at
regular intervals in the woven
cloth. This is due to slack
warp or to some obstruction
that hinders the passage of
the filling bobbin through the
looms shed.
RIDGY CLOTH t See Wavy cloth. See Wavy cloth.
RIG processes,
operations
To fold wide fabrics in
the center and wind
on bolt or roll,
To fold wide fabrics in the
center and wind on bolt or
roll, rather than having them
flat on a much wider roll or
bolt.
RIGGING The lengthways
folding of fabric so
that the folded
material is half its
original width.
The lengthways folding of
fabric so that the folded
material is half its original
width.
RIGHT - HAND TWILL fabrics A twill weave which
produces a diagonal
line
A twill weave which produces
a diagonal line or twill
running from lower left to
upper right. Approximately
80% of all twills made are of
the right-hand type.
RIGHT SIDE I See Face side. See Face side.
RIGHT TWIST v Same as Z twist. See
under Direction of
twist
Same as Z twist. See under
Direction of twist
RIGHT-HAND TWILL I A twill weave which
produces a diagonal
line or twill running
from lower left to
upper right.
A twill weave which produces
a diagonal line or twill
running from lower left to
upper right. Approximately
80% of all twills made are of
the right-hand type
RIGID RAPIER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A stiff rod-like rapier
used to insert filling.
A stiff rod-like rapier used to
insert filling.
RING t Also called Denier
variation, Horizontal
line, Yarn variation.
1. Also called Denier
variation, Horizontal line,
Yarn variation. Fabric defect
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Word Category Short description Description
Fabric defect in
hosiery.
in hosiery. A nar-row, visually
different horizontal band,
caused usually by variation in
yarn size, dye absorption, or
luster.
2. See under Swealing
RING BOBBIN v A bobbin of yarn as
spun on a ring-
spinning machine.
A bobbin of yarn as spun on
a ring-spinning machine. See
Ring tube.
RING DOUBLING See Ring twisting See Ring twisting
RING SPINNING processes,
operations
A system of spinning A system of spinning wherein
drafting the roving, twisting
the yarn and winding it on the
bobbin, proceed
simultaneously and
continuously. Ring frames
are suitable for spinning all
counts upto 150s, usually
give a stronger yarn and is
more productive than the
mule spinning frame.
RING TUBE v The yarn package
wound on ring tube in
the spinning machine
during ring spinning.
The yarn package wound on
ring tube in the spinning
machine during ring spinning.
See Ring bobbin
RING TWISTING Also called Down
twisting.
Also called Down twisting. A
system of producing folded
yarn by twisting together two
or more single yarns using
ring-and-traveler as the
twisting technique. The terms
ring twisting and down
twisting are also used when
the same technique is
employed to increase or
decrease the twist in a single
yarn.
RINGLESS I Hosiery knitted in
such a way as to
eliminate shadowy
rings of color around
the leg
Hosiery knitted in such a way
as to eliminate shadowy rings
of color around the leg. This
is accomplished by not
knitting any two courses of
the consecutive courses from
the same cone of yarn.
RINGS, KNITTING t A defect characterized
by clouded or mottled
area around a
A defect characterized by
clouded or mottled area
around a stocking, usually
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Word Category Short description Description
stocking caused by uneven yarn.
RINSE processes,
operations
To cleanse an article
with water after
washing.
To cleanse an article with
water after washing.
Successive additions of fresh
water are used to remove
dirt, soil, detergents, etc. that
have accumulated in the
washing equipment.
RIP-OUT t See Pick-out mark. See Pick-out mark.
RIPE COTTON v Fully mature cotton
that is particularly
suitable for spinning
into yarn.
Fully mature cotton that is
particularly suitable for
spinning into yarn.
RIPENESS v See under Cotton
maturity
See under Cotton maturity
RIPENING A process employed
for stiff, wiry carpet
wools to prepare them
for carding.
1. A process employed for
stiff, wiry carpet wools to
prepare them for carding.
The fibers are sprayed with
oil, and remain in this state
for several days or weeks so
that the oil penetrates the fi-
bers, softening them to make
them easier to work.
2. A process in viscose rayon
manufacture in which the
spinning solution is stored for
a specific period of time to
allow it to achieve the proper
character for spinning
(extrusion through spinner-
ets).
RIPPED SELVEDGE t See Cut selvedge. See Cut selvedge.
RIPPING The operation of
removing cotton or
man-made fiber
linings from garments
prior to the sorting and
classification of rags.
The operation of removing
cotton or man-made fiber
linings from garments prior to
the sorting and classification
of rags.
RIPPLE CLOTH fabrics Inexpensive, plain-
weave, medium
weight, soft fabric
Inexpensive, plain-weave,
medium weight, soft fabric
that has been slightly
brushed on both sides and
then forcibly wrinkled to give
it a wavy or rippled surface.
Both treatments add warmth.
Fabric may be made from
768
Word Category Short description Description
wool, but is more likely to be
acrylic or from cotton and
therefore inflammable; in
plain colors only. Used for
dressing gowns and bed
jackets
RIPPLE, WEFT-
KNITTED
I WELT RIPPLE: A
held-loop fabric, made
on two sets of needles
1. WELT RIPPLE: A held-
loop fabric, made on two sets
of needles by selective
knitting and missing on one
set and continuous knitting
on the other and featuring roll
or weave effects on the fabric
side.
2. TUCK RIPPLE: A fabric,
made on one set of needles,
featuring raised effects that
are developed by selective
knitting and tucking, tuck
loops being accumulated in
alternate wales
RIPPLING processes,
operations
Combing process for
removing the leaves
and seed
Combing process for
removing the leaves and
seeds from the dried stalks of
the flax plant in preparation
for retting.
RISER o In weaving, a filled-in
square on design
paper which indicates
lifting of an end.
In weaving, a filled-in square
on design paper which
indicates lifting of an end.
RIVRE A French term for
openwork effect
produced by
embroidering over or
drawing together the
threads left in a drawn
work foundation.
A French term for openwork
effect produced by
embroidering over or drawing
together the threads left in a
drawn work foundation.
ROAD MEMBRANE I Any coarse, plain
weave, open cotton
fabric used to
reinforce asphalt
surfaced roads, airport
runways, and ditches.
Any coarse, plain weave,
open cotton fabric used to
reinforce asphalt surfaced
roads, airport runways, and
ditches. Osnaburgs were the
preferred fabrics converted to
this use but they have been
to a large degree superseded
by other processes. Also
called road cloth.
ROBIA VOILE I Trade name of a wide Trade name of a wide variety
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Word Category Short description Description
variety of voile fabrics of voile fabrics. In 100 %
cotton, the voiles vary from
satin stripes in various widths
and colors to plain square-
effect weave with self-color
woven spots.
ROBOTICS The complete
replacement of human
beings in a handling
situation.
The complete replacement of
human beings in a handling
situation. The application of
robotics to the making of
garments proves very difficult
because of the flexible nature
of the materials.
ROCK CORK v A variety of asbestos A variety of asbestos
ROCK WOOL v Wool-like fibers made
from molten slag or
rock
Wool-like fibers made from
molten slag or rock by forcing
a blast of steam through the
liquid. Used for insulation
jobs.
ROCKET PACKAGE v A large version of a
Super Cop
A large version of a Super
Cop, used as a means of
supplying a coarse weft yarn
to shuttleless weaving
machines. It may be up to
800 mm in length and 75 mm
in diameter.
RODIER I See Double piqu. See Double piqu.
ROGUES YARN v A colored strand of
worsted twisted in
rope used by British
navy.
1. A colored strand of
worsted twisted in rope used
by British navy.
2. A yarn different from
others in a cloth, inserted for
identification.
ROLL WELT z See under Welt. See under Welt.
ROLL-BOILING A comparatively short
potting treatment at
the boil.
A comparatively short potting
treatment at the boil.
ROLLED LATEX v A fine core thread
which, when covered
with nylon, etc. is
used for foundation
garments, bathing
suits, etc.
A fine core thread which,
when covered with nylon, etc.
is used for foundation
garments, bathing suits, etc.
It is first made in a flat strip,
then rolled on itself to form
the thread.
ROLLED SEAM-
FINISH
A finish for the raw
edges of the seam
allowances of a plain
A finish for the raw edges of
the seam allowances of a
plain seam, in which both raw
770
Word Category Short description Description
seam, in which both
raw edges are
enclosed by rolling to
one side and hand
stitching close to the
seam line.
edges are enclosed by rolling
to one side and hand
stitching close to the seam
line. A rolled seam-finish is
made by (1) trimming the
seam allowance to 10 mm.
(2) rolling the seam
allowances together with
thumb and forefinger to one
side so that raw edges are
enclosed, and (3) hand
stitching the rolled edge
close to the seamline.
ROLLED SELVEDGE t See Curled selvedge See Curled selvedge
ROLLER FINISH See Venetian finish. See Venetian finish.
ROLLER PRINTING processes,
operations
Also called Cylinder
printing. A mechanical
method of printing
different colored
patterns on cloth
Also called Cylinder printing.
A mechanical method of
printing different colored
patterns on cloth with, in
some cases up to sixteen
colors in one pass, in perfect
register. The cloth, full width,
passes under copper rollers
around a large drum. The
design is engraved on the
copper rollers. Color paste, in
the engravings of each roller,
is pressed against the cloth.
There is a separate roller for
each color in the pattern.
ROLLER ROCKER
MACHINE
F See under Lace
Machines.
See under Lace Machines.
ROLLER-EMBOSSED
FILM
v I A polymer film that
has been indented to
induce easy splitting
during subsequent
stretching.
A polymer film that has been
indented to induce easy
splitting during subsequent
stretching. The indentations
are produced by using a
profiled embossing-roller and
may be either longitudinal
and followed by uniaxial
stretching to produce
individual filaments, or
patterned and followed by
biaxial stretching to produce
a fine net.
ROLLING ROCKER
MACHINE
F See under Lace
machines.
See under Lace machines.
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Word Category Short description Description
ROLLING SELVEDGE t Fabric defect. Fabric
has curled, buckled,
or rolled-up selvedge.
Fabric defect. Fabric has
curled, buckled, or rolled-up
selvedge. May be cut out by
shearing, before the material
is sent for finishing
processes.
ROMAINE I A light weight fabric
having a dull lustre
and crpe texture.
A light weight fabric having a
dull lustre and crpe texture.
ROMNEY ARSH v The wool from this
hardy breed of sheep
is not as long nor as
lustrous as Cotswold
or Linocln wool,
however it is denser
finer.
The wool from this hardy
breed of sheep is not as long
nor as lustrous as Cotswold
or Linocln wool, however it is
denser finer. There is much
variation in Romney, which
shrinks about 30 %.
ROOFING FELT I A felted fabric made of
animal hair, coarse
wool or asbestos
treated with tar or
other suitable material
and used for roofing.
A felted fabric made of
animal hair, coarse wool or
asbestos treated with tar or
other suitable material and
used for roofing.
ROPE w An article of cordage
more than 4 mm in
diameter obtained
when (a) three or
more strands are laid
or plaited together, or
(b) a core is covered
by a braided or plastic
film sheath.
An article of cordage more
than 4 mm in diameter
obtained when (a) three or
more strands are laid or
plaited together, or (b) a core
is covered by a braided or
plastic film sheath. Types of
rope are:
Braided rope: Also called
Sennit rope, Sinnet rope. A
rope formed by braiding or
plaiting the strands together.
Cable laid rope: A rope
formed by three or more
ropes twisted to form a helix
around the same central axis.
The ropes that become the
secondary strands are S lay
and the finished cable is Z
lay or vice versa.
Combined rope: A rope in
which the strand centres are
made of steel and in which
the outer por-tions of each
strand are made from fibrous
material.
772
Word Category Short description Description
Double braided rope: A rope
in which a number of strands
are plaited to form a core and
around which are plaited
further strands to form a
sheath. The core lies
coaxially within the sheath.
Eight-strand rope: A rope
normally composed of 4 pairs
of strands plaited in a double
four strand round sennit.
Hard Laid rope: A rope in
which the length of lay of the
strands and/or the rope is
shorter than usual, resulting
in a stiffer and less flexible
rope.
Hawser laid rope: A rope of
three strands which are
twisted to form helixes
around the same cen-tral
axis.
Laid rope: A rope in which
three of more strands are
twisted to form helixes
around the same cen-tral
axis. See also Ordinary Lay.
Shroud laid rope: A four
strand rope with or without a
core with the strands twisted
to form a he-lix (round the
central core, where present).
Soft laid rope: A rope in
which the length of lay of
strands and/or the rope is
longer than usual re-sulting in
a more flexible rope which is
easily deformed.
Spring lay rope: A rope made
with six strands over a main
core, each strand of which
has alternat-ing wire and
fiber components laid over a
fiber core.
ROPE BELTING w A belting generally
made of cotton ropes
formed by twisting
four stands around a
central core;
A belting generally made of
cotton ropes formed by
twisting four stands around a
central core; each strand is
covered in spiral fashion with
773
Word Category Short description Description
ten twisted cords of cotton
yarn that serve as a
protective covering to the
inner part of the rope,
preventing contact and wear
without interfering with
flexibility or strength.
ROPE FORM I Cloth that has been
permitted to close in
on itself, for
convenience in
handling over open
width.
Cloth that has been permitted
to close in on itself, for
convenience in handling over
open width.
ROPE MARK t Fabric defect in dyed
or finished fabrics.
Fabric defect in dyed or
finished fabrics. A long
irregularly shifting
longitudinal mechanically
induced streak, caused by
abrasion marks occurring
while wet-processing the
fabric in rope form.
ROPING v A term used for roving
in the woolen system
of spinning.
A term used for roving in the
woolen system of spinning.
ROPING YARN v A yarn from which a
strand is produced.
A yarn from which a strand is
produced.
ROSE-POINT LACE I A Venetian
needlepoint lace with
designs connected by
a thick thread
A Venetian needlepoint lace
with designs connected by a
thick thread. Is characterized,
as the name suggests, by
delicate close flower or leaf
designs.
ROT RESISTANCE I Resistance to
deterioration of a
textile material as a
result of fungal growth
in or on it.
Resistance to deterioration of
a textile material as a result
of fungal growth in or on it.
Such deterioration is
normally assessed by
measuring loss in tensile
strength.
ROTARY KNIFE
CUTTING MACHINE
F A machine with a
circular rotating blade
A machine with a circular
rotating blade, generally used
for cutting straight lines or
gradual curves in fabric lays
of limited depth.
ROTARY SCREEN
PRINTING
processes,
operations
Printing from a
machine equipped
with a set of cylindrical
Printing from a machine
equipped with a set of
cylindrical screens - usually,
774
Word Category Short description Description
screens but not always, placed in line
along a horizontal print table-
each fitted with an integral
squeegee and color-feed
unit.
ROTOR apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A machine part in
open-end spinning
machine.
A machine part in open-end
spinning machine. A device
resembling a centrifuge, in
which the fibers are
assembled and in which, by
virtue of its rotation, real twist
is inserted in the forming
yarn.
ROTOR SPINNING processes,
operations
A method of open-end
spinning which uses a
rotor (a high speed
centrifuge)
A method of open-end
spinning which uses a rotor
(a high speed centrifuge) to
collect and twist individual
fibers into a yarn. The fibers
on entering the rapidly
rotating rotor are distributed
around its circumference and
temporarily held there by
centrifugal force. The yarn is
withdrawn from the rotor wall
and, because of the rotation
of the rotor, twist is inserted.
ROUGH t Fabric defect Fabric defect. A descriptive
term for a fabric surface
which has the feel of
sandpaper.
ROUGH DRY processes,
operations
Laundry that is dried
without smoothening
or ironing.
Laundry that is dried without
smoothening or ironing.
ROUGH PLACE t See Temple mark. See Temple mark.
ROUGH SELVEDGE t See Loopy selvedge. See Loopy selvedge.
ROUND HEEL z A fully-fashioned hose
heel made by
continuous knitting
A fully-fashioned hose heel
made by continuous knitting
across the whole width with
widening or narrowing.
ROUND NECK
COLLAR
z A collar on a jumper
that encircles the
lower part of the neck
A collar on a jumper that
encircles the lower part of the
neck, without being either
loose or tight.
ROUND TWILL fabrics A misnomer for fabric
with a rounded rib
effect
A misnomer for fabric with a
rounded rib effect made with
a satin weave.
ROVE v In jute processing, a In jute processing, a
775
Word Category Short description Description
continuous strand of
spun-jute fiber having
a spyndle number of
50 or greater.
continuous strand of spun-
jute fiber having a spyndle
number of 50 or greater.
ROVING fibers,
filaments,
yarns
An indefinitely long,
loose assemblage of
staple fibers,
An indefinitely long, loose
assemblage of staple fibers,
drawn or rubbed into a single
strand, substantially parallel
and with very little twist, but
capable of being drafted. In
spun yarn systems, the
product of the stage, or
stages, just prior to spinning.
ROVING COURSES In weft knitting.
Additional courses
used in the
manufacture of knitted
articles either as
protective courses or
to facilitate handling in
subsequent
operations.
In weft knitting. Additional
courses used in the
manufacture of knitted
articles either as protective
courses or to facilitate
handling in subsequent
operations. These courses
are afterwards removed. Also
called Hand-hold, Ravel
courses, Waste courses.
ROVINIG FRAME F Any machine used in
yarn manufacture,
particularly in the
cotton system, to
reduce the size of the
sliver to roving, even
it, and insert a slight
amount of twist.
Any machine used in yarn
manufacture, particularly in
the cotton system, to reduce
the size of the sliver to
roving, even it, and insert a
slight amount of twist. This
classification includes those
machines employed between
the drawing and spinning
processes
ROWDY t Fabric defect. The
defect consist of
streaks in the fabric.
Fabric defect. The defect
consist of streaks in the
fabric.
ROWEY t See Uneven surface See Uneven surface
ROWS I A term used in
reference to pile floor
covering, for the
average number of
tufts or loops per inch
counted in the
warpwise direction.
1. A term used in reference
to pile floor covering, for the
average number of tufts or
loops per inch counted in the
warpwise direction.
2. A series of stitches, in
crocheting, knitting or netting
worked from one side to the
other in a straight piece of
needlework.
776
Word Category Short description Description
ROYAL RIB I WOVEN. A plain
weave fabric with a
warp-way rib
produced by taped
ends and a high weft
sett.
1. WOVEN. A plain weave
fabric with a warp-way rib
produced by taped ends and
a high weft sett.
2. KNITTED. See Half
cardigan rib.
ROYAL TWILL fabrics A term used for a two-
ply silk warp
A term used for a two-ply silk
warp and fine cotton filling
fabric used for dresses.
ROYLE I A closely woven silk
fabric with horizontal
ribs broken off at
intervals,
1. A closely woven silk fabric
with horizontal ribs broken off
at intervals, after a given
number of warp threads
employing what is technically
known as figured rib weaves
for interlacing warp and
filling.
2. An eight-harness silk fabric
with about 250 ends and 100
to 140 picks per inch. Used
for dresses and mens
waistcoats.
RUBBER fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A material that is
capable of recovering
from large
deformations quickly
and forcibly
A material that is capable of
recovering from large
deformations quickly and
forcibly, and can be, or
already is, modified to a state
in which it is essentially
insoluble (but can swell) in
boiling solvent, such as
benzene, methylethyl ketone,
and ethanol-toluene
azeotrope. A manufactured
fiber in which the fiber-
forming substance is
comprised of natural or
synthetic rubber, including
the following categories:
RUBBER CORE
YARN
v A core yarn made with
a core of round or
square cut filaments
of rubber
A core yarn made with a core
of round or square cut
filaments of rubber around
which are wrapped, in one or
both directions, one or more
yarns of cotton, man-made
fiber, etc. resulting in and
elastic yarn.
RUBBER SHEETING I A plain cotton fabric
with heavy coating of
A plain cotton fabric with
heavy coating of cured
777
Word Category Short description Description
cured rubber on one
or both sides.
rubber on one or both sides.
Used in various weights in
hospitals and for baby cribs
RUBBER THREAD
COUNTS
v The size or number of
the thread depending
on its cross-section
The size or number of the
thread depending on its
cross-section, and expressed
in parts of an inch, e.g. #50 is
1/50 of an inch in diameter.
RUBBER, NATURAL v A raw material
obtained from the sap
(latex) of the rubber
tree.
A raw material obtained from
the sap (latex) of the rubber
tree. Rubber is extruded,
vulcanized, and slit into
sheets.
RUBBER, SYNTHTIC fibers,
filaments,
yarns
An elastomeric
substance which is
synthesized from
derivations of
petroleum.
An elastomeric substance
which is synthesized from
derivations of petroleum. Its
properties are similar to
natural latex.
RUBBERIZED fabrics Fabric which is
impregnated with, or
coated on one or both
sides with, rubber
compound,
Fabric which is impregnated
with, or coated on one or
both sides with, rubber
compound, to make it water
resistant or waterproof.
RUBBING t See Crocking See Crocking
RUBBING
FASTNESS
general A method of
measuring the transfer
of a colored fabric to a
white cloth
A method of measuring the
transfer of a colored fabric to
a white cloth when the two
fabrics are rubbed together.
RUCHE w A narrow, woven or
knitted heading (see
under Fringe), usually
having a very heavy
multiple-thread weft
passed through to
form a skirt (see Loop
ruche), normally about
25 mm wide over-all
A narrow, woven or knitted
heading (see under Fringe),
usually having a very heavy
multiple-thread weft passed
through to form a skirt (see
Loop ruche), normally about
25 mm wide over-all. It is
used generally in lieu of
piping round upholstery
cushions. Other types consist
of a web, the centre one-third
of which consists of a pile
weave or other raised effect,
which is sewn around a
central core. Ruches are
usually flanged, the flanged
portion being for insertion
into the seam of the article to
which it is to be sewn.
778
Word Category Short description Description
Cauliflower ruche: A woven
flat ruche, the weft of which
provides a very heavy uncut-
pile effect on one side. The
cross-section of a cauliflower
ruche is almost semi-circular.
It is sometimes called half-
round ruche.
Crimped loop ruche: A loop
ruche, the weft for which has
been passed through a
crimping ma-chine.
Cut crimped ruche: A cut
ruche, the weft of which has
been passed through a
crimping machine.
Cut ruche: A ruche woven or
knitted in double width and
cut down the middle.
Knitted flat ruche: A ruche
consisting of a loosely
constructed warp-knitted web
with an uncut-pile effect on
one surface.
Loop ruche: A ruche, the skirt
of which is in the form of an
uncut pile. Also called Tape
ruche.
Pile ruche: A ruche made as
a woven flat ruche, but with
pile-forming elements.
Woven flat ruche: A ruche
made from a narrow woven
tape with warp patterning, but
without pile forming
elements.
RUCHED FABRIC fabrics A warp-knitted, three
or four-bar fabric
A warp-knitted, three or four-
bar fabric in which the front
one, two, or three guide bars
are part-set threaded and
mis-lap while their warps are
stopped so producing a
discontinuous pleat in the
form of small raised areas,
the size, shape, and
arrangement of which
depend on the threading and
lapping movement of the
guide bars.
779
Word Category Short description Description
RUFFLING A form of gathering A form of gathering
RUG z Also called Mat. Also called Mat. A textile floor
covering of limited area
which is complete in itself
and is intended for use as
partial covering of a floor, or
another floor covering
RUG BACK z That part of a rug
normally in contact
with the floor.
1. That part of a rug normally
in contact with the floor.
2. The underside of a rug as
opposed to the use-surface.
RUG CUSHION z A sponge rubber or
hair felt fabric placed
under the rug
A sponge rubber or hair felt
fabric placed under the rug to
prevent the rug from slipping
and to make the rug softer
and more cushiony.
RUG WOOL v A wool yarn, generally
woolen-spun, twisted
six-fold
A wool yarn, generally
woolen-spun, twisted six-fold,
the single thread before
plying being not finer than
350 tex
RUG, MAT z A textile floorcovering
of predetermined
shape and limited
dimensions.
A textile floorcovering of
predetermined shape and
limited dimensions.
RUGGEDNESS TEST o An experiment in
which environmental
or test conditions are
deliberately varied to
evaluate the effect of
such variations.
An experiment in which
environmental or test
conditions are deliberately
varied to evaluate the effect
of such variations.
RULING MILL F In printing, a small mill
which has scale lines
raised in relief on its
surface
In printing, a small mill which
has scale lines raised in relief
on its surface, and which is
used to transfer these lines
on to the varnished surface
of a copper cylinder.
RUN v t In the American
woolen system, the
number of 1600 yard
lengths of yarn per
pound
1. In the American woolen
system, the number of 1600
yard lengths of yarn per
pound; an indirect yarn
numbering system generally
used for yarns spun on the
woolen system.
2. Fabric defect in knitted
fabric. Also called Ladder. A
series of dropped stitches.
780
Word Category Short description Description
See also Dropped stitches.
RUN PROOF fabrics The ability to
withstand runs.
The ability to withstand runs.
Especially used to describe a
knitted construction of locked
loops, which prevent runs
RUN WOOL v The number of 1600
yard hanks, of wool
yarn in a pound.
The number of 1600 yard
hanks, of wool yarn in a
pound. A 4 run wool has 4 x
1600 or 6400 yards in one
pound
RUN-IN RATIO The run-in ratio is a
very important
characteristic of the
seam. The ratio
between a given
length of seam and
the length of one of
the threads consumed
in creating it.
The run-in ratio is a very
important characteristic of the
seam. The ratio between a
given length of seam and the
length of one of the threads
consumed in creating it.
When the run-in is relatively
large, the seam is perceptibly
loose and the component
fabrics can be separated
when pulled laterally so that
the seam grins. The
extensibility of the seam
along its length is, however,
at a maximum. At the
opposite extreme, with low
run-in, the seam is percepti-
bly tight with little lateral
movement between the
components and reduced
stretch along the seam.
The run-in ratio in all types of
seams is an absolute
quantity that expresses three
variables which can
charaterise the geometric
construction of a seam:
- the density or frquency, i.e.
number of stitches/cm;
- the overall thickness of the
components to be joined;
- the tension of the thread at
the time of construction.
In a complex stitch involving
several threads there will be
several run-in ratios. The
most useful ones involve the
needle threads.
781
Word Category Short description Description
RUN-OF-THE-LOOM I Fabric ready for
shipment as it comes
from the loom.
Fabric ready for shipment as
it comes from the loom. No
inspection is made and no
weaving defects are
eliminated
RUN-RESIST I Numerous varieties of
run-resist
constructions of knit
fabrics are employed.
Numerous varieties of run-
resist constructions of knit
fabrics are employed. A
special knitting stitch, usually
a displaced loop type, a
locked loop, etc. Used in
hosiery and various knit
fabrics.
RUNNAGE z Specific length
especially of cords
and ropes.
Specific length especially of
cords and ropes.
RUNNER t z Fabric defect, major,
in knitted fabric.
1. Fabric defect, major, in
knitted fabric. Caused by a
broken needle, and will
appear as vertical line. Most
machines have stopping
device to stop machine when
this happens. See End out.
2. A long narrow length of
textile floor covering finished
on both ends.
RUNNING MARK t See Rope mark. See Rope mark.
RUNNING
METRE/YARD
I One metre/yard of
cloth, regardless of
width in which it is
woven.
One metre/yard of cloth,
regardless of width in which it
is woven.
RUNNING STITCH A short, even, and
continuous hand-
stitch, formed by
passing the thread
through the material
alternately from top to
underside and vice
versa.
A short, even, and
continuous hand-stitch,
formed by passing the thread
through the material
alternately from top to
underside and vice versa.
The stitch is used for
topstitching, fine seams, and
gathering.
RUNNING YARD I One yard (36 inches)
length of fabric
regardless of width of
the cloth.
One yard (36 inches) length
of fabric regardless of width
of the cloth.
RUNNING-ON The placing of
previously knitted
loops, or a selvage,
The placing of previously
knitted loops, or a selvage,
back onto the needles of a
782
Word Category Short description Description
back onto the needles
of a knitting machine
for the addition of a
further piece of
knitting
knitting machine for the
addition of a further piece of
knitting. The term is also
used when an intermediate
transfer bar is used to run on
to, as in placing the
waistband and cuff ribs onto
a straight bar knitting
machine when knitting fully
fashioned garments.
RUPTURE o t The breaking or
tearing apart of a
material. (Compare
Failure.)
The breaking or tearing apart
of a material. (Compare
Failure.)
RUSSEL CORD I A ribbed fabric made
with a cotton warp and
worsted filling
A ribbed fabric made with a
cotton warp and worsted
filling; two warp ends are
woven together to form the
cord. The rib lines run
warpwise.
RUSSIA BRAID w Two or more adjacent
braids interlaced to
form stripes.
1. A narrow braid with two
cores side by side, covered
with fine yarns, which go
backwards and forwards over
one core and under the other
as a continuous figure 8.
2. Two or more adjacent
braids interlaced to form
stripes.
RUSSIAN TWILL fabrics A fine twilled wool
dress fabric with a
clear finish
A fine twilled wool dress
fabric with a clear finish,
made with right hand twist
yarn and dyed in the piece.
RUSTY SILK t Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Fine, brownish
streaks seen in the weft of
white or delicately colored
silk fabric.

S

Word Category Short description Description
SABLE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A dark brown luxury
fur which is very
hardwearing.
A dark brown luxury fur
which is very
hardwearing.
SABL GROUND fabrics A French term for a A French term for a
783
Word Category Short description Description
block-printed cloth
which has tiny-
pinned dots printed
all over it before the
printing of the main
pattern.
block-printed cloth which
has tiny-pinned dots
printed all over it before
the printing of the main
pattern. Also called
Sanded or Vermicular.
SACKING fabrics A general term
applied to coarse
fabrics, used mainly
for making of bags or
sacks.
A general term applied to
coarse fabrics, used
mainly for making of
bags or sacks. They are
often made of jute,
hemp, flax or polyolefin,
and the number of
threads per centimetre
may vary from 2 to over
12. See also Bagging
Fabric
SADDENING processes,
operations
A wool dyeing
process in which the
mordant is applied
after, instead of
before the dyestuff.
A wool dyeing process in
which the mordant is
applied after, instead of
before the dyestuff.
SADDLE SHOULDER garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The shape of the
junction between the
sleeve and the body
of a garment
The shape of the junction
between the sleeve and
the body of a garment
where the line starts at
the underarm,
progresses as a set-in or
raglan to a point
approximately two thirds
up the armhole, then
changes to a line parallel
to the shoulder itself. The
sleeve head has a
tongue projection to
achieve this.
SAFETY STITCH seams,
stitches
Stitch formed by an
over-edge stitch,
reinforced by a chain
stitch (or sometimes
lockstitch), further in
from the fabric edge.
Stitch formed by an over-
edge stitch, reinforced by
a chain stitch (or
sometimes lockstitch),
further in from the fabric
edge.
SAILCLOTH fabrics Firm ribbed fabric
made from cotton,
rayon usually, or
polyester and cotton
Firm ribbed fabric made
from cotton, rayon
usually, or polyester and
cotton. In plain colours in
plain or basket weave,
Coarser and more
784
Word Category Short description Description
heavily ribbed than
poplin but not as
prominently ribbed as
repp. Sailcloth is made in
heavier weights than
poplin and is used for
dresses, blouses,
childrens clothes, leisure
wear, trousers and mens
summer jackets
according to weight. It is
usually resin finished and
is stiff and hardwearing.
Drape and pleats well
but crease easily.
SALISBURY fabrics Popular white
English flannel; made
of woollen yarn.
Popular white English
flannel; made of woollen
yarn. It comes in varying
weights.
SALT AND PEPPER fabrics Fabric made of black
and white ply yarns
Fabric made of black and
white ply yarns. Typical
fabrics are tweed and
homespun. See also
Pepper and Salt
SALT SENSITIVITY I IN DYEING. The
extent to which the
dyeing properties
(especially on
cellulosic fibres) of a
dye are af-fected, by
the addition of a
neutral electrolyte to
the dyebath.
1. IN DYEING. The
extent to which the
dyeing properties
(especially on cellulosic
fibres) of a dye are af-
fected, by the addition of
a neutral electrolyte to
the dyebath.
2. IN DYED FABRIC.
The susceptibility of
coloured material to
change in colour when
spotted with aqueous
solution of neutral
electrolytes.
SAMITE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Xamitum. See Xamitum.
SAMPLE general A portion of a lot of
material which is
taken for testing or
for record purposes.
1. A portion of a lot of
material which is taken
for testing or for record
purposes.
2. A group of specimens
used, or observations
785
Word Category Short description Description
made, which provide
information that can be
used for mak-ing
statistical inferences
about the population(s)
from which they were
drawn.
See also Lot sample,
Laboratory sample, and
Specimen.
SAMPLING PLAN general A procedure for
obtaining a sample
A procedure for obtaining
a sample
SAMPLING UNIT general An identifiable,
discrete unit or sub-
unit of material that
could be taken as
part of a sample.
An identifiable, discrete
unit or sub-unit of
material that could be
taken as part of a
sample.
SAND CRPE fabrics A fabric with an
irregular surface
texture made from
silk or man-made
fibres.
A fabric with an irregular
surface texture made
from silk or man-made
fibres. It is heavier than
crpe de chine. The
fabric is finished with the
appearance of sand.
SAND ROLLER MARKS defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. These
marks run in the weft
direction and may be
caused by uneven
tension and pull on the
cloth as it winds around
the sand roller on the
loom. Irregular tension
between the sand roller
and the cloth roller also
causes these marks
SANDED fabrics See Sabl ground. See Sabl ground.
SANDFLY NET fabrics See Bobbin net See Bobbin net
SANDWICH BLENDING processes,
operations
Mixing fibres from
different package
lots, units, or of
different
characteristics
Mixing fibres from
different package lots,
units, or of different
characteristics by
spreading them in two or
more horizontal layers
with all elements in the
proper proportion when
vertical sections are cut.
Sections are fed to the
786
Word Category Short description Description
appropriate yarn-making
machine.
SANDWICH-PLATED
FABRIC
fabrics See under Plated
fabric.
See under Plated fabric.
SANFORIZE PUCKER defects Fabric defect, may
be major or minor.
Fabric defect, may be
major or minor. Resulting
from uneven wetting out
on the sanforizor, usually
defective spray heads.
The fabric will appear
wavy or puckering when
spread on the cutting
table.
SANFORIZED fabrics The trademark of a
controlled
mechanical shrinking
process applied to
cottons and other
fabrics liable to be
washed a great deal.
The trademark of a
controlled mechanical
shrinking process
applied to cottons and
other fabrics liable to be
washed a great deal.
Fabrics are shrunk by
compressive shrinkage
process. Sanforized
fabric can be controlled
to shrink not more than 1
% in laundering. Used
mainly on shirt fabrics.
SANFORIZED COTTON
SEW-IN
accessories See under Sew-in
woven interfacing.
See under Sew-in woven
interfacing.
SANFORIZING MARK defects Fabric defect. Also
called Blanket mark.
Fabric defect. Also called
Blanket mark. A crimped,
rippled, wavy, pebbled,
or cockled place in the
cloth showing distortion
of the texture.
SANITIZED fabrics A germicidal or
bacteriostatic finish
applied to fabric,
plastic and other
materials.
A germicidal or
bacteriostatic finish
applied to fabric, plastic
and other materials.
SANSEVIERIA fabrics A fibre obtained from
the leaves of various
species of plants of
the genus
Sansevieria.
A fibre obtained from the
leaves of various species
of plants of the genus
Sansevieria.
SAPONIFIED ACETATE
RAYON
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A high-tenacity
acetate rayon, which
is insoluble in
A high-tenacity acetate
rayon, which is insoluble
in acetone and is dyed
787
Word Category Short description Description
acetone and is dyed
like viscose rayon.
like viscose rayon.
SAPONIFIED
CELLULOSE ACETATE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The saponified
cellulose acetate
filaments are made
by heating cellulose
acetate filament
yarns in steam and
stretching the
softened yarn by 4 to
10 times its original
length.
The saponified cellulose
acetate filaments are
made by heating
cellulose acetate filament
yarns in steam and
stretching the softened
yarn by 4 to 10 times its
original length. The
stretched yarn is wound
onto perforated bobbins
and saponified by
treatment with caustic
soda solution. The
resultant yarn of very fine
filaments of regenerated
highly oriented cellulose
is then washed, oiled,
dried and rewound. Very
high ratio of strength to
volume and excellent
dimensional stability.
SARAN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured fibre
in which the fibre-
forming substance is
any long chain
synthetic polymer
composed of at least
80 % by weight of
vinylidene chloride
units.
A manufactured fibre in
which the fibre-forming
substance is any long
chain synthetic polymer
composed of at least 80
% by weight of vinylidene
chloride units.
It is a very strong fibre
resisting dirt, chemicals,
sunlight, etc. Used
mainly for upholstery on
public trans-port.
SARI fabrics,
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Also spelled saree
A term applied to the
fabric woven
especially for saris.
Also spelled saree
1. A term applied to the
fabric woven especially
for saris.
2. Sari is one of the best
surviving examples of
the ancient, purely
draped womens
costume of the warm
climates in which the
garment is constructed
entirely by draping-
without cutting. Saris are
788
Word Category Short description Description
woven of fine cottons,
silks or even man-made
fibres. They may be of
printed or plain designs
and are often decorated
with metal threads on
borders and ends. It can
be worn in different
ways. The pieces can be
from 3.5 m. to 5 m. long
depending on the style of
draping. Now, fine
expensive saris are
hand-woven or machine-
made in cotton or silk,
while the less expensive
saris are cut from long
pieces.
SARILLE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Trade name of a soft
cellulose fibre,
developed from
viscose and used to
produce warm
fabrics.
Trade name of a soft
cellulose fibre,
developed from viscose
and used to produce
warm fabrics. Mainly
used in dress fabrics,
household textiles such
as blankets, and often
mixed with other fibres,
such as wool, to reduce
the cost
SARONG garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A draped costume
consisting of a piece
of fabric woven 5 m.
to 7 m. long, usually
of cotton, sometimes
silk.
A draped costume
consisting of a piece of
fabric woven 5 m. to 7 m.
long, usually of cotton,
sometimes silk. Usually
printed by the batik,
block or warp print
method or sometimes
with woven design. Often
made with fancy borders.
SARSNET RIBBON accessories A ribbon constructed
entirely in plain
weave of very fine
warp and weft and
with high density, the
weft density being
higher than that of
the warp.
A ribbon constructed
entirely in plain weave of
very fine warp and weft
and with high density,
the weft density being
higher than that of the
warp. A true sarsnet is
made wholly of silk
SARSONET fabrics Originally a fine Originally a fine Arabian
789
Word Category Short description Description
Arabian fabric of silk,
it is now a net or
veiling fabric in
millinery
fabric of silk, it is now a
net or veiling fabric in
millinery. Made from silk,
nylon, or polyester.
SATEEN fabrics In pure sateen
weaves, the surface
of the cloth consists
almost entirely of
weft floats. Sateen is
manufactured in
many different types
and weights. The
standard curtain
lining fabric is a good
example of this type
of fabric, made from
cotton and given a
schreiner finish to
produce lustre.
Most commonly used
for linings. According
to quality it is used as
curtain lining or
curtain fabric. Used
for costumes for the
stage and fancy
dress. Soft and
drapes well. It does
not wear particularly
well; seams tend to
pull and crack-marks
appear where hems
are pressed. It is not
often used as a dress
fabric for these rea-
sons.
Regarded as a cheaper
version of the satin.
Sateen weave produces
a weft-faced fabric by
reversing the satin
weave. However it is not
a straightforward
reversing of a satin
weave because the
fabric construction differs
in that the weft yarns are
more numerous and
more closely set than the
warp yarns here in order
to give the necessary
compactness of surface.
The diagram shows a 5-
thread sateen structure.
In pure sateen weaves,
the surface of the cloth
consists almost entirely
of weft floats. Sateen is
manufactured in many
different types and
weights. The standard
curtain lining fabric is a
good example of this
type of fabric, made from
cotton and given a
schreiner finish to
produce lustre.
Most commonly used for
linings. According to
quality it is used as
curtain lining or curtain
fabric. Used for
costumes for the stage
and fancy dress. Soft
and drapes well. It does
not wear particularly well;
seams tend to pull and
crack-marks appear
where hems are
pressed. It is not often
used as a dress fabric for
790
Word Category Short description Description
these rea-sons.
SATEEN FINISH fabrics A highly lustrous
finish with a fairly
crisp hand applied to
certain cotton fabrics
to imitate satin
fabrics.
A highly lustrous finish
with a fairly crisp hand
applied to certain cotton
fabrics to imitate satin
fabrics.
SATIN fabrics Fabric, that is very
smooth and has
lustrous face on the
right side (although
sometimes both
sides are satin
weave).
Fabric, that is very
smooth and has lustrous
face on the right side
(although sometimes
both sides are satin
weave). It originated as a
woven silk fabric and its
effect depends on a
special construction. The
smoothness is produced
by a special satin weave
which has long floats of
warp over weft. The warp
is very closely set and
there are usually at least
twice as many warp
yarns per cm than weft.
This gives a close
compact face
predominantly warp. The
interlacings of warp with
weft should be
completely hidden giving
the fabric an apparently
smooth featureless
surface. See diagrams
5-thread satin and 8-
thread satin under Satin
weave. The back of the
fabric is comparatively
dull in contrast.
Satin-weave fabrics are
made from all yarns,
including silk, acetate,
nylon, viscose, polyester,
cotton Many different
types and weights of
satin are made for a wide
variety of dress and
lining use.
Duchesse satin: Very
smooth rather stiff-
791
Word Category Short description Description
handling satin, heavier in
weight than the average
dress satin, made with a
very fine warp in an 8-
thread satin weave which
may be silk, but is more
likely to be viscose (see
diagram under satin
weave), usually with a
non-lustrous fairly thick
weft to give the requisite
firm-ness. Used mainly
for wedding-gowns and
evening dresses.
Double satin: Very
expensive fine fabric
made as the name
suggests with a double
satin weave so that both
sides are lustrous - and
may be different colours
- and the weft is
completely hidden.
Crpe satin: This
features hard twisted
weft yarns in alternate S
and Z twist which cause
a crinkling of the smooth
surface giving a more
subdued lustre.
The satin weave is used
in cotton and wool
fabrics also, not primarily
for lustre purpose but to
produce a smooth
surface, which can be
suitably enhanced by
finishing processes. See
Drill and Doeskin.
A satin type fabric is also
produced by warp
knitting by using long
guide bar laps which
gives the technical back
of the fabric a smooth
surface which is used as
the face side for dress
fabrics, often printed.
The fabric surface is not
792
Word Category Short description Description
so smooth and compact
as the woven satin
SATIN DRILL fabrics A drill fabric made
with a five-end satin
weave
A drill fabric made with a
five-end satin weave
SATIN FINISH fabrics A smooth lustrous
finish, which may be
applied to several
fabrics.
A smooth lustrous finish,
which may be applied to
several fabrics. The satin
weave is not necessarily
employed.
SATIN STITCH seams,
stitches
Embroidery done in
close parallel lines
(stitches) over a
printed design
Embroidery done in
close parallel lines
(stitches) over a printed
design. Characterised by
a satiny surface. May or
may not be padded; if it
is, called a raised satin
stitch; if not, a flat satin
stitch.
SATIN STRIPE fabrics Fabric of almost any
fibre, including
cotton, that has a
satin-weave shiny
stripe alternating with
contrasting stripe of a
different weave of
thickness of yarn,
even of a different
colour
Fabric of almost any
fibre, including cotton,
that has a satin-weave
shiny stripe alternating
with contrasting stripe of
a different weave of
thickness of yarn, even
of a different colour
SATIN STRIPES fabrics A stripe in fabric
formed by a satin
weave.
A stripe in fabric formed
by a satin weave.
SATIN WEAVE fabrics One of the three
basic types of weave,
the other two being
Plain and Twill.
One of the three basic
types of weave, the other
two being Plain and
Twill.
Satin weaves are a
group of structures
designed to produce a
smooth fabric surface
without twill markings.
The word satin creates a
mental picture of a
smooth lustrous fabric
In the diagram of a 5-
thread satin weave,
shown above, it will be
seen that the face of the
793
Word Category Short description Description
fabric is predomi-nantly
warp and each warp yarn
passes over four weft
yarns and under one.
The interlacings do not
form a rigid twill line; the
warp yarns are set
almost twice as closely
as the weft yarns so that
as the surface closes up
the single weft
interlacings are hidden
between the warp floats
in each side of them.
This gives the illu-sion of
a solid unbroken surface
if the structure is
correctly set, but creates
a one-sided fabric in that
the re-verse side is
coarser in texture, and
not smooth. Larger
weaves give a smoother
surface by enabling the
weft interlacings to be
hidden more efficiently
but tend to produce
loose fabrics unless the
setting is very fine
In the 8-thread version,
shown above, the basic
interlacing is 7 and 1.
This is used only in more
expensive fine fabrics
because it would
produce a very loose
structure in a cheaper
setting.
These weaves are used
extensively with filament
yarns to obtain maximum
lustre and smoothness.
The long floats of the
interlacings expose the
filaments to damage in
making-up and wear.
Satins are not very dura-
ble if subjected to much
abrasion, unless made
794
Word Category Short description Description
from very strong
synthetic fibres, and
cheap satins, which
usually lack closeness,
are subject to yarn
slippage and cracking of
fabric
The sateen weave
produces a weft-faced
fabric. See Sateen
SATIN, KNITTED fabrics A two-bar warp-
knitted fabric in which
the front-bar
underlaps are
arranged with a view
to producing a
smooth surface.
A two-bar warp-knitted
fabric in which the front-
bar underlaps are
arranged with a view to
producing a smooth
surface.
SATIN-BACK fabrics Any fabric of any
fibre where the
reverse side is of
satin weave.
Any fabric of any fibre
where the reverse side is
of satin weave. See
Satin.
SATIN-BACK CRPE fabrics See Satin-back
crpe.
See Satin-back crpe.
SATINET WEAVE fabrics See Satinett. See Satinett.
SATINETT fabrics A four-end irregular
satin or sateen
weave.
A four-end irregular satin
or sateen weave.
SATURATION BONDING processes,
operations
A method of making
nonwoven fabrics
A method of making
nonwoven fabrics in
which the fibre web or
batt is treated by overall
application of an
adhesive in liquid form.
See also Adhesive
bonded Non-woven
fabric.
SATURATION REGAIN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The moisture in a
material at 95 to 100
% relative humidity.
The moisture in a
material at 95 to 100 %
relative humidity.
SATURATION VALUE processes,
operations
The maximum
quantity of a dye
which can be
absorbed by a
substrate under
defined conditions.
The maximum quantity of
a dye which can be
absorbed by a substrate
under defined conditions.
SAWDUST CRPE fabrics A type of rayon fabric
made in a crpe
A type of rayon fabric
made in a crpe
795
Word Category Short description Description
construction with a
harsher hand than
sand crpe.
construction with a
harsher hand than sand
crpe.
SAXONY fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
FIBRE. The high
grade Class One
wool of the merino
wool group.
1. FIBRE. The high
grade Class One wool of
the merino wool group.
2. YARN. A high grade,
finely twisted knitting
yarn used in the better
type of fabrics.
3. FABRIC. A soft
feeling, well finished
flannel made from
Saxony wool. Originally
made in the province of
Saxony, Germany, the
name has come to be
used to describe any
soft, plain weave woollen
or worsted cloth with a
slight nap. High-grade
yarns are used so the
term always implies a
good quality cloth. It may
be plain or in small
checks.
SAXONY FINISH fabrics A finish generally
applied to woollen
fabric; the cloth is
fulled, stretched,
napped, shorn short
and then brushed
and pressed.
A finish generally applied
to woollen fabric; the
cloth is fulled, stretched,
napped, shorn short and
then brushed and
pressed.
SCAFFOLDING YARN fabrics That component of a
plied yarn that is
used to support a
weaker component
through further
processing until it is
satisfactorily
introduced into a
fabric.
That component of a
plied yarn that is used to
support a weaker
component through
further processing until it
is satisfactorily
introduced into a fabric.
The scaffolding yarn may
then be removed by
solvent or other chemical
action or, alternatively,
be retained in the fabric
to make it more durable.
SCALE LINES apparatus,
equipage,
In engraved printing-
roller work
In engraved printing-
roller work, in order to
796
Word Category Short description Description
tools print a flat area of solid
colour, the shape (after
outlining) must be filled
in with a series of parallel
lines set an angle of
between 22 and 30;
the number of these to
the inch constitutes the
scale.
SCALES fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The overlapping
horny cell
components which
make up the outside
surface of the wool
fibre.
The overlapping horny
cell components which
make up the outside
surface of the wool fibre.
They permit felting.
SCALLOP fabrics,
defects
Curves or
indentations along
the edge of a fabric.
1. Curves or indentations
along the edge of a
fabric.
2. Fabric defect. The
edges of a fabric
exhibiting approximately
sinusoidal waveforms of
short lengths in the plane
of the fabric. The defect
usually appears in a
fabric which has been
stretched excessively
width-ways during
stentering
SCALLOPED SELVEDGE defects Also called Misclip,
Off-dip. Fabric
defect.
Also called Misclip, Off-
dip. Fabric defect. An
abrupt, narrow
indentation in the
selvedge of the cloth,
caused due to clip on
stenter frame failing to
attach itself onto, or hold
fabric selvedge. An
irregular cloth edge
similar in appearance to
that of a scallop shell.
SCARF garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A square piece of
cloth worn for warmth
or as a decorative
apparel item.
A square piece of cloth
worn for warmth or as a
decorative apparel item.
SCHAPPE SILK fabrics A type of silk from
which the gum has
been removed by
A type of silk from which
the gum has been
removed by
797
Word Category Short description Description
fermentation. fermentation. The fabric
produced and called by
this name is similar to
Spun silk
SCHAPPING processes,
operations
A method of
degumming applied
to silk waste, which
removes part of the
gum by a
fermentation
process.
A method of degumming
applied to silk waste,
which removes part of
the gum by a
fermentation process. Up
to 90 % of gum may be
removed from the fibre.
SCHIFFLI LACE fabrics Name originates from
the machine itself.
Name originates from the
machine itself.
Embroidery done in a
Schiffli loom-like
machine, equipped with
many needles and boat-
shaped shuttles. It
produces various effects
on lightweight fabrics.
SCHIFFLI MACHINE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
An embroidery
machine
An embroidery machine
consisting of a
multiplicity of lockstitch
sewing elements working
on a basic net or fabric
that is attached to a
frame movable vertically
and horizontally
according to the
requirements of the
pattern
SCHREINER processes,
operations,
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A finish for
enhancing the lustre
of the fabric,
obtained by passing
it through a schreiner
calender.
1. Description of a
calender with two or
three bowls in which one
( the middle one in a
three-bowl calender) is of
highly polished steel
engraved with very fine
parallel lines (grooves)
running at an angle of
approxi-mately 20 to
either the horizontal or
the vertical.
2. The term is sometimes
used for the engraved
bowl of a schreiner
calender. The engraved
bowl is heated, usually to
798
Word Category Short description Description
60-120 C for finishing
cotton fabrics,
3. A finish for enhancing
the lustre of the fabric,
obtained by passing it
through a schreiner
calender. Opti-mum
effects are obtained
when the lines are
slightly cross the
direction of the surface
yarn twist.
SCHREINERING processes,
operations
A fabric finishing
process which
smoothen the right
side, often
impressing a pattern
at the same time.
A fabric finishing process
which smoothen the right
side, often impressing a
pattern at the same time.
Schreinering is produced
using a special schreiner
calender. It has a metal
cylinder that has a series
of fine lines, from 250 to
350 per inch (100 to
140/cm), engraved so
that they form an angle
of roughly 26 to the
construction of the cloth.
The angle is usually such
that the lines are parallel
to the twist in the yarns.
The fabric is fed between
the large cylinder with
the engraved lines and a
smaller cylinder that is
heated. The finish
produces a soft, silk-like
lustre and is frequently
used on cellulose fibres
such as cotton and linen.
The cylinders flatten the
yarns and create a
smooth and compact
fabric. This process is
also used in tricot knits to
produce lingerie fabrics
that are soft and opaque
SCOOP accessories Deprecated term. Deprecated term. See
Element.
SCOTCH BEAMING processes, See Dry taping under See Dry taping under
799
Word Category Short description Description
operations Scotch dressing. Scotch dressing.
SCOTCH BLACKFACE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A well-known breed
of sheep, which
produces much long
carpet wool.
A well-known breed of
sheep, which produces
much long carpet wool.
The fibres are very
strong, rugged, stand the
rigours of weather very
well and ideal for use as
filling fibre in the
manufacture of rugs and
carpets.
SCOTCH CARPET garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under Ingrain
carpet.
See under Ingrain
carpet.
SCOTCH DRESSING processes,
operations
Dry taping: Also
called Scotch
beaming.
Dry taping: Also called
Scotch beaming. A
method of preparing
striped warps for
weaving, suitable for use
when long lengths of any
one pattern are to be
woven. The preparation
is carried out in three
operational steps.
Dresser sizing: Also
called Scotch warp
dressing. A method of
warp preparation, used
particularly in the linen
industry, which
incorporates sizing.
See also Dressing
SCOTCH FINISH fabrics A term applied to
heavy woollens
finished with a
closely shorn nap.
A term applied to heavy
woollens finished with a
closely shorn nap.
SCOTCH TWEED fabrics Woollen tweed made
in twill weave using a
white warp and
brightly coloured weft
yarns.
Woollen tweed made in
twill weave using a white
warp and brightly
coloured weft yarns. It
has a tough, shaggy
appearance, and is
made in various weights
for suits and overcoats.
SCOTCH WARP
DRESSING
processes,
operations
See Dresser sizing
under Scotch
dressing.
See Dresser sizing under
Scotch dressing.
800
Word Category Short description Description
SCOTCHGUARD fabrics A registered shower-
proof finish applied to
some fabrics
A registered shower-
proof finish applied to
some fabrics
SCOURED WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Wool, from which the
bulk of impurities
have been removed
by an aqueous or
solvent washing
process.
Wool, from which the
bulk of impurities have
been removed by an
aqueous or solvent
washing process.
SCOURING processes,
operations
The cleaning of raw
stock, yarn or cloth to
remove various
impurities as oils,
fats, waxes, soluble
impurities and any
adhering particulate
of solid dirt.
The cleaning of raw
stock, yarn or cloth to
remove various
impurities as oils, fats,
waxes, soluble impurities
and any adhering
particulate of solid dirt.
The process consists
essentially of treatment
with a detergent, with or
without the addition of an
alkali or by treatment
with solvents and
chemicals. Scouring is
almost invariably the first
wet process applied to
textile materials.
SCRATCH FELT fabrics Cheap quality
woollen fabric made
to resemble camel
cloth.
Cheap quality woollen
fabric made to resemble
camel cloth. Poor
wearing qualities.
SCRAY apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A J shaped
container in which
piece goods may be
accumulated in folds
or pleats.
A J shaped container in
which piece goods may
be accumulated in folds
or pleats. Generally used
in dry finishing or
inspection to
compensate the flow of
cloth to varying speeds.
SCREEN ENGRAVING processes,
operations
The production of the
open and in-filled
pattern areas on the
print-screen surface
The production of the
open and in-filled pattern
areas on the print-screen
surface; the traditional
term is still used,
although engraving is in
no way involved.
SCREEN PRINTING processes,
operations
A stencil-like method
of printing, using a
screen of fine mesh
A stencil-like method of
printing, using a screen
of fine mesh cloth. Areas
801
Word Category Short description Description
cloth. to remain uncoloured,
are treated with a film
which prevents colour
passage. Colour paste is
forced through the
untreated potions of the
screen onto the fabric
underneath. The screen
may then be moved
ahead to a repeat.
Separate screen is used
for each different colour
in a design. There are
mainly two types of
screen printing methods:
Flat bed screen printing:
Colour is squeezed
through a flat screen
manually or
automatically. Also called
automatic screen
printing.
Roller screen printing: A
roller metal screen is
used. Rollers are
arranged horizontally,
vertically and cen-trally.
SCRIM fabrics Loosely woven cloth
in cotton yarn, similar
to voile but a poorer
quality fabric.
Loosely woven cloth in
cotton yarn, similar to
voile but a poorer quality
fabric. It is very similar to
cheesecloth. Normally
used only for backing
other fabrics such as fur.
SCRIMP defects Printing defect,
major.
Printing defect, major.
The result of the fabric
being folded or creased
when passing through
the print machine. There
will be areas not printed.
SCRIMP ROLLER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Also called Scroll
roller.
Also called Scroll roller.
Rollers or bars (rails)
characterised by grooves
or projections inclined at
equal and opposite
angles to the centre line
on each half and used
for removing folds or
802
Word Category Short description Description
creases during finishing
operations.
SCRIMPS defects A wrinkle in a cloth
caused by excessive
strain, tension or
pressure on a fabric.
1. A wrinkle in a cloth
caused by excessive
strain, tension or
pressure on a fabric.
2. A printing defect
identified by areas of
fabric that are unprinted.
May be due to creasing
of the fabric as it passes
through the printing area.
SCROLL GIMP fabrics A woven figured
narrow fabric having
two series of wefts
and a warp.
A woven figured narrow
fabric having two series
of wefts and a warp.
Each series consists of
three gimp cords laid flat.
The ground series
projects at one edge to
form a triple loop; the
figure series passes
through the warp and
returns over the warp
alternately to form a
loose scroll on the
surface. The overall
width of the fabric, which
is in plain weave, is
about 16 mm
SCROLL ROLLER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Scrimp roller See Scrimp roller
SCROOP fabrics The rustling sound
associated with silk,
which is heard when
fabric is compressed,
rubbed together or
with body movement
when worn.
The rustling sound
associated with silk,
which is heard when
fabric is compressed,
rubbed together or with
body movement when
worn. It is not a natural
property, but is imparted
during finishing by
treatment with certain
acids. Some man-made
materials also may be
given this finish.
SCULPTURED PILE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under Pile in
carpet
See under Pile in carpet
803
Word Category Short description Description
SCULPTURED RUG garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A floor covering with
J acquard designs, in
different heights of
pile.
A floor covering with
J acquard designs, in
different heights of pile.
SCUTCHER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A machine which
breaks and opens up
fibres.
1. A machine which
breaks and opens up
fibres.
2.A finishing machine
that whirls against the
fabric in such a way and
speed, so as to spread
the cloth in full width.
SCUTCHING processes,
operations
IN COTTON FIBRE.
An operation in which
cotton is opened
mechanically and
cleaned and formed
into a continuous lap.
1. IN COTTON FIBRE.
An operation in which
cotton is opened
mechanically and
cleaned and formed into
a continuous lap.
2. IN FLAX FIBRE. The
operation of separating
the woody part of
deseeded or retted flax
straw from the fibre. See
also Retting.
3. IN ANY FABRIC.
Opening up of fabric to
its full width. This takes
place after the fabric has
been allowed to close in
on itself to rope form.
See Scutching
SCYE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The armhole of a
garment
The armhole of a
garment
SCYE DEPTH garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related
term.
Garment-related term.
See under Garment
sizing system.
SEA ISLAND COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A type of extra long
staple cotton fibre.
A type of extra long
staple cotton fibre.
Average fibre length 51
mm. The best quality
cotton fibre and yarn in
the world. The fibre is
long, soft, lustrous, and
smooth and made into
top quality cotton fabrics
both plain and printed.
Production is limited, so
804
Word Category Short description Description
it is a very expensive
yarn.
SEA SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Strong lustrous fibres
yielded by certain
algae.
Strong lustrous fibres
yielded by certain algae.
SEAL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Shiny and flat hair
with coarse texture
Shiny and flat hair with
coarse texture; not
hardwearing. Black or
grey in colour.
SEALSKIN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fur, of the Alaskan
seal, usually dyed
black or brown.
Fur, of the Alaskan seal,
usually dyed black or
brown. Is very
hardwearing. Often used
for handbags.
SEAM seams,
stitches
Also called J oining
line. A line where two
or more fabrics are
joined, usually near
the edge.
Also called J oining line.
A line where two or more
fabrics are joined,
usually near the edge.
The term seam is used
to describe the
composite result of fabric
being stitched. Materials
used may include fabric,
fur, leather and plastic
film. J oining methods for
seams may vary. Taken
into account are the
relationship between the
stitching and the edges
of the fabric(s), the
particular folding of the
fabric, the entry location
of the needle in stitching,
and the positions of
looper and seam
covering threads.
See also Sewn seam,
Glued seam, Stapled
seam, Thermally-bonded
seam.
SEAM ALLOWANCE seams,
stitches
Also called Seam
margin.
Also called Seam
margin. In sewn fabrics,
the distance from the
edge of a fabric to the
parallel stitch line
furthest from that edge,
i.e. a pre-determined
amount of material
805
Word Category Short description Description
between the edge of the
component parts of the
garment and the seam
line. Many commercial
patterns specify seam
allowances which may
vary usually between 1
mm to 20 mm depending
upon the pattern. Seam
allowances may be
trimmed during or after
seam construction.
SEAM ASSEMBLY seams,
stitches
The composite
structure obtained
when fabric(s) are
joined by means of a
seam
The composite structure
obtained when fabric(s)
are joined by means of a
seam
SEAM BASTING seams,
stitches
A temporary sewing
together of two parts
of a garment.
A temporary sewing
together of two parts of a
garment.
SEAM BINDING accessories A straight tape used
for finishing the
edges of hems and
seams
A straight tape used for
finishing the edges of
hems and seams
SEAM BUSTING seams,
stitches
Pressing open
seams, often carried
out as an
intermediate
operation during
garment assembly.
Pressing open seams,
often carried out as an
intermediate operation
during garment
assembly. Same as
Seam opening
SEAM DAMAGE defects Sewing defect Sewing defect. An
adverse change in the
physical condition of one
or more of the
components in a seam
which would reduce the
seam efficiency and
seam acceptability such
as yarn slippage, needle
damage, or fabric
rupture.
SEAM EFFICIENCY seams,
stitches
In sewn fabrics, the
ratio of seam
strength to fabric
strength
In sewn fabrics, the ratio
of seam strength to
fabric strength
SEAM MARGIN seams,
stitches
See Seam
allowance.
See Seam allowance.
806
Word Category Short description Description
SEAM MARK defects Fabric defect, in
finished woven cloth
Fabric defect, in finished
woven cloth. A pressure
mark caused by the
thickness of the seam
being pressed against
the cloth. Sometimes
called Wrinkle Mark.
SEAM OPENING seams,
stitches
See Seam busting See Seam busting
SEAM PUCKER seams,
stitches
Puckering of fabric
along the line of
stitching at a seam.
Puckering of fabric along
the line of stitching at a
seam.
SEAM QUALITY seams,
stitches
The serviceability
and appearance of a
seam as governed by
the quality of the
fabric
The serviceability and
appearance of a seam
as governed by the
quality of the fabric, the
thread used, and the
number of stitches to the
inch
SEAM SLIPPAGE fabrics In sewn fabrics, the
displacement of the
fabric yarn parallel
and adjacent to the
stitch line.
In sewn fabrics, the
displacement of the
fabric yarn parallel and
adjacent to the stitch
line. The pulling away of
fabric from a seam under
tension.
A synthetic resin finish
for rayons and synthetics
prevents seam slippage
and fraying at the seams
of yarns liable to occur
with smooth fibres and
filament yarns, especially
light, loosely woven
cloth.
SEAM SMOOTHNESS seams,
stitches
In fabrics, the visual
impression of
planarity of a seamed
specimen quantified
In fabrics, the visual
impression of planarity of
a seamed specimen
quantified by comparison
with a set of reference
standards.
SEAM TYPES seams,
stitches
An alphanumeric
designation relating
to the essential
characteristics of
fabric positioning and
rows of stitching in a
specified sewn fabric
An alphanumeric
designation relating to
the essential
characteristics of fabric
positioning and rows of
stitching in a specified
sewn fabric seam.
807
Word Category Short description Description
seam. Seam constructions are
divided into eight
classes, as per BS
Standard 3870, that
describe the number and
configuration of the
material components in
the seam.
A five-digit number
denotes the particular
combination. The first
number represents the
class, the second and
third digits the materials
configuration, and the
fourth and fifth digits the
needle penetration
location.
The components are
described as being
limited or unlimited on
their edges. Limited
describes an edge that is
finite and bears a
relationship to the seam
formed. Unlimited
describes an edge or
side that is inde-
terminate and
unconnected with the
seam formed. Within the
British Standard a limited
edge is defined with a
straight line and an
unlimited edge by a wavy
line.
SEAM-FINISH seams,
stitches
A treatment of the
raw fabric edges of
the seam allowance
in a plain seam.
A treatment of the raw
fabric edges of the seam
allowance in a plain
seam. Seam-finishes are
used to prevent raveling,
provide a neater
appearance, and prolong
wear life.
Types of seam-finishes
may include Bound,
Clean-finish, Double-
stitched', Hand-
overcast, Hong Kong,
808
Word Category Short description Description
Pinked, Rolled, Self-
bound, Stitched and
Pinked, Turned and
Stitched, and
Zigzagged. The type of
seam-finish chosen may
be influenced by type
and weight of fabric, end
use of object, amount
and kind of care given,
the visibility of the
seams, and the design of
the item. Seam-finishes
are not needed with
complex seams.
SEAMING garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
J oining together the
component parts of a
garment at a given
distance from the
edge of the material.
J oining together the
component parts of a
garment at a given
distance from the edge
of the material.
SEAMING DEFECTS IN
GARMENT
defects See under Garment
defects, classified
See under Garment
defects, classified
SEAMLOC processes,
operations
A treatment with a
plastic binder on the
back of woven
carpets to prevent
the fabric from
ravelling
A treatment with a plastic
binder on the back of
woven carpets to prevent
the fabric from ravelling.
Seams are joined with
special tape and
cementing material to
make an almost invisible
seam.
SEAT garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Part of trousers
covering the buttocks
Part of trousers covering
the buttocks
SEAT ANGLE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The quantity of
material, usually 5 to
8 cm., allowed at the
seat on the
underside for ease of
movement.
The quantity of material,
usually 5 to 8 cm.,
allowed at the seat on
the underside for ease of
movement.
SEAT BELT WEBBING accessories A woven webbing,
usually of polyester
A woven webbing,
usually of polyester, with
special physical
characteristics used for
body restraining
purposes.
SEAWEED FIBRES fibers, See Alignate fibres See Alignate fibres
809
Word Category Short description Description
filaments,
yarns
SECANT MODULUS general On a stress/strain
diagram, the ratio of
change in stress to
change in strain
between two points,
especially the points
of zero stress and
breaking stress.
On a stress/strain
diagram, the ratio of
change in stress to
change in strain between
two points, especially the
points of zero stress and
breaking stress.
SECOND-HAND FILLING
MATERIAL
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
An industry product
which contains any
filling material which
has previously been
used
An industry product
which contains any filling
material which has
previously been used
should not be offered for
sale unless a clear and
conspicuous disclosure
of that fact is made on
the label thereof and in
all advertising and
invoices relating to such
product.
SECONDARY COLOURS general See under Colour See under Colour
SECONDS general Textile products
which, owing to some
fault or imperfection
Textile products which,
owing to some fault or
imperfection, do not
reach an agreed
standard of quality.
SECRET FINISH processes,
operations
Usually a newly
patented finish of a
converter.
Usually a newly patented
finish of a converter. The
finisher can collect
royalties, or sell or
license the technique
and the finish. Secret
finishes bring certain
textile fabrics to the
consumers attention.
SECTION MARK defects Fabric defect in
woven fabrics.
Unintented warp
bands of different
colour, texture, or
lustre.
Fabric defect in woven
fabrics. Unintented warp
bands of different colour,
texture, or lustre. Seen in
a fabric section, the warp
yarns woven loose, and
the weft yarns show a
cockled effect. Caused
by uneven tension of the
warp or a section of the
warp which has slipped
810
Word Category Short description Description
during the dressing or
slashing operations. The
affected areas are
usually a total loss, since
it is very difficult to bring
the material to what it
should be. Also called
Warp Band
SECTION WARPING processes,
operations
See Pattern warping
and also Beam
warping.
See Pattern warping and
also Beam warping.
SEE-THROUGH FABRIC fabrics A very sheer cloth
such as gauze.
1. A very sheer cloth
such as gauze.
2. Foam laminating,
particularly in knit goods;
permits the foam backing
to show through on the
face of the cloth.
SEED COAT FRAGMENT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
In cotton, a portion of
a cottonseed,
In cotton, a portion of a
cottonseed, usually black
or dark brown in colour,
broken from a mature or
immature seed, and to
which fibres and linters
may or may not be
attached.
SEED COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Cotton, as harvested
and before ginning
Cotton, as harvested and
before ginning,
consisting of seeds with
the fibre attached and
usually including
measurable amounts of
foreign matter.
SEED EFFECT fabrics Appearance of
having small seed-
like objects scattered
over the surface of
the fabric.
Appearance of having
small seed-like objects
scattered over the
surface of the fabric. May
be produced by the yarn,
weave or print.
SEED FIBRES fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A general term
applied to fibres and
hairs produced by
the seeds or seed
pods of plants
A general term applied to
fibres and hairs
produced by the seeds
or seed pods of plants,
such as cotton,
vegetable silk.
SEERLOOP GINGHAM fabrics Gingham with slack-
tension loops of yarn
Gingham with slack-
tension loops of yarn on
811
Word Category Short description Description
on the surface, often
on the white lines
only.
the surface, often on the
white lines only. See
Gingham.
SEERSUCKER fabrics Traditional form of
cotton fabric showing
crinkled/puckered
stripes alternating
with flat ones of
various widths which
may be in different
colours and sizes.
Traditional form of cotton
fabric showing
crinkled/puckered stripes
alternating with flat ones
of various widths which
may be in different
colours and sizes. The
stripes may be
multicoloured, or in a
plain coloured fabric with
a printed floral pattern on
it. Early seersucker, all
cotton, was made by
physically forcing
bubbles into the plain
fabric, and so after a few
washes the bubbles
began to flatten and, if
ironed they would
certainly disappear.
Now, however, the cloth
is made on a twin- beam
loom which feeds the
yarns at different speeds
and the puckers are
therefore woven in, i.e. a
normally plain weave
fabric is produced by
having two warps, one
heavily tensioned and
the other comparatively
slack. The crinkled
stripes are formed by the
slack warp and the
smooth ground by the
tight warp. Fibre content
now normally includes
polyester with cotton, but
it can be a nylon fabric.
This is a relatively
expensive method of
producing crinkled
effects and the chemical
or heat shrinkage
methods as mentioned in
Plisse are cheaper and
812
Word Category Short description Description
more commonly used.
Used for lightweight
casual clothes, such as
shirts, skirts, beachwear,
aprons and for
tablecloths and kitchen
curtains. Creases do not
show
SELF-BLENDED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A single yarn spun
from a blend or
mixture of the same
fibre species.
A single yarn spun from
a blend or mixture of the
same fibre species. A
spun yarn made from
fibres of varied lengths or
different counts would be
a self-blended yarn. See
also Combination yarn,
Blended yarn.
SELF-BOUND SEAM-
FINISH
seams,
stitches
A finish for the raw
edges of the seam
allowances of a plain
seam, in which one
seam allowance
encloses both raw
edges.
A finish for the raw
edges of the seam
allowances of a plain
seam, in which one
seam allowance
encloses both raw
edges. A self-bound
seam-finish is made by
(1) stitching on the 15
mm seamline with face
sides together, (2)
trimmimg one seam
allowance to 3 mm, (3)
folding the wider seam
allowance edge under 3
mm, (4) turning the
folded edge over the
narrower seam
allowance so the folded
edge nearly abuts the
seamline, thus enclosing
all raw edges, and (5)
machine stitching along
the first folded edge
through the four layers of
seam allowances.
SELF-EDGE fabrics Same as Selvedge. Same as Selvedge.
SELF-FASTENING TAPE
FASTENERS
accessories Also called Hook and
loop fasteners and
Touch and close
fasteners.
Also called Hook and
loop fasteners and
Touch and close
fasteners. Used as
813
Word Category Short description Description
garment closures. They
are usually made
available in lengths in
narrow tapes, and as
small squares and dots.
These provide an easy
on, easy-off adjustable
closure.
The material comes in
two pieces. One piece
has small hooks all over
the surface, and the
other is covered with
small loops. When the
two pieces are pressed
together, the hooks
attach to the loops,
holding the pieces
together. They are quite
easy to peel apart.
They are suitable only for
medium and
heavyweight fabrics.
Ideal for outerwear,
especially for closing
pocket flaps and cuffs.
Often used on clothing of
children and
handicapped persons,
and on space suits.
SELF-FIGURE fabrics Also called Self-
stripe.
Also called Self-stripe. A
woven pattern in fabric,
as distinguished from a
printed pattern; the
weave of the design
differs from the ground
weave. Generally
employed on solid
colours, the pattern
being the same colour as
the ground.
SELF-STITCHING
DOUBLE CLOTH
fabrics See under Double
cloth.
See under Double cloth.
SELF-STRIPE fabrics See Self-figure. See Self-figure.
SELF-TWIST SPINNING fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A method of making
yarn from rovings fed
to a drafting unit
A method of making yarn
from rovings fed to a
drafting unit; the
emerging strand of fibres
814
Word Category Short description Description
is subjected to a
cyclically reverse false-
twisting action, which
can be imparted in a
number of ways. Two or
more adjacent strands
delivered from the false-
twist system are then
brought together by
guides, and their torque
causes them to wrap
about each other. This
wrapping action is
defined as self-twist and
produces a twist-pattern
of -S-Zero-Z-Zero- etc.,
in the yarn, which is then
taken up as a cheese.
Further twisting may be
necessary before the
yarn is used.
SELF-TWIST TWISTED
YARN (STT
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A self-twist yarn to
which unidirectional
twist has been added
in a subsequent
operation.
A self-twist yarn to which
unidirectional twist has
been added in a
subsequent operation.
SELVAGE fabrics Same as Selvedge Same as Selvedge
SELVEDGE fabrics Also called Selvage,
List, and Listing. The
woven edge portion
of a fabric parallel to
the warp.
Also called Selvage, List,
and Listing. The woven
edge portion of a fabric
parallel to the warp. The
longitudinal edges of a
fabric that are formed
during weaving. The
edge at each long side of
a woven fabric, that is
usually in a firmer
construction than the rest
of the fabric, to provide a
firm neat edge and a
secure grip for finishing
machinery. Selvedges
are often upto 20 mm
wide and may differ from
the body of the fabric in
construction or weave or
both, or they may be of
exactly the same
815
Word Category Short description Description
construction as the body
of the fabric and be
separated from it by
yarns of different colour.
Usually the selvedge has
an increased number of
ends per inch. Selvedges
may contain fancy
effects or may have
brand names or fabric
descriptions woven into
or printed on them.
Selvedges serve as a
binding point for the weft
when weaving and as an
aid to maintain proper
width when dyeing,
printing, and finishing
fabric. A good selvedge
which is found on any
material at the full width
pro-duces the effect of a
frame around a picture
and is usually a cloth of
proper quality and
construction. A well-
woven selvedge assures,
generally speaking, a
well-woven cloth.
Tuck-in selvedge:
Formed by tucking-in
protruding portions of
each pick into the next
warp shed, alongside the
new pick, and beating
them up together with it.
Double-pick interwoven
selvedge: Formed by
interweaving a strong
selvedge end with the
legs of the pro-truding
loops, using a small
reciprocating shuttle.
Double-pick knitted
selvedge: Formed by
passing protruding loop
of each pick through the
loop of the pre-ceding
pick.
816
Word Category Short description Description
Fused selvedge:
Thermoplastic warp and
weft are welded together
by heat and pressure.
Helical selvedge:
Formed by nipping each
pick between two strong,
highly tensioned ends
which interwine
continuously, each end
having a helical
configuration.
Inserted selvedge:
Formed by inserting
additional short double
picks of strong fine yarn
by means of a re-
ciprocating needle.
Leno selvedge: Formed
by one or more pairs of
strong, highly tensioned
ends that interface with
the weft on the leno
principle. Warp threads
are crossed and
interwoven into the
edges of the fabric.
Traditional selvedge:
Formed without making
special provision on a
shuttle loom weaving
plain cloth.
However, fabrics woven
by new fast looms do not
produce conventional
selvedges. In shuttleless
looms, the cloth is
provided with special
selvedges that will not
allow the fabric to fray at
the edges, but will
enable it to perform
satisfactorily during
finishing and making-up,
or even give satisfaction
in the final article with-
out the need for
hemming.
SELVEDGE END defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. These are
817
Word Category Short description Description
BREAKS caused by improper shed
setting whereby the
shuttle cannot function
properly, poor temple
setting, shuttles which
have not been
sandpapered to make
them smooth, weak
selvedge threads,
crowded reeding of the
selvedge ends, too tight
a weave construction,
damaged or bent reed
wires, poorly plied yarn
with one of the plies
being loose or out
altogether.
SELVEDGE IN KNITTING fabrics The sealed edge of a
piece of weft knitted
fabric.
The sealed edge of a
piece of weft knitted
fabric. The edge is
formed when the thread
forming a course turns
back at the edge of the
knitting and is used to
create the succeeding
course. The term is
derived from weaving
where the weft thread
also turns back to form
succeeding picks.
SELVEDGE MARK defects Fabric defect. A more
or less regular,
lengthways, crease
mark, in the finished
cloth, along the
selvedge.
Fabric defect. A more or
less regular, lengthways,
crease mark, in the
finished cloth, along the
selvedge. Caused by an
edge being folded or
doubled during the
finishing of the cloth.
SELVEDGE TORN defects Fabric defect, major.
Self-explanatory.
Fabric defect, major.
Self-explanatory.
SELVEDGE TURNDOWN defects Fabric defect. A
lengthways streak
immediately adjacent
to the selvedge,
characterised by a
difference in colour
from that of the body
of the fabric, by
Fabric defect. A
lengthways streak
immediately adjacent to
the selvedge,
characterised by a
difference in colour from
that of the body of the
fabric, by surface
818
Word Category Short description Description
surface disturbance,
or by both
disturbance, or by both.
The defect is caused by
the selvedge having
folded over, thus
shielding the edge of the
usable fabric during
processing.
SELVEDGE WIDENING processes,
operations
In weft knitting, a
method of shaping a
garment panel
In weft knitting, a method
of shaping a garment
panel by introducing
additional needles at one
or both selvedges in a
particular sequence
designed to increase the
width of the fabric over a
given number of courses
whilst maintaining a
secure selvedge and
without changing the
structure. See also
Selvedge, weft knitting.
SELVEDGE, DISTORTED defects A selvedge that does
not itself vary in width
A selvedge that does not
itself vary in width, but
which is not straight as a
result of variations in the
fabric width.
SELVEDGE, UNEVEN defects See Uneven
selvedge.
See Uneven selvedge.
SELVEDGE, WEFT
KNITTING
fabrics The edge of a fully-
fashioned garment
panel.
The edge of a fully-
fashioned garment
panel.
SEMI-COLLAPSED
BALLOON SPINNING
processes,
operations
Also called Semi-
suppressed balloon
spinning.
Also called Semi-
suppressed balloon
spinning. A system of
ring spinning in which the
rotating yarn balloon is
greatly reduced at the
start of an empty bobbin
and is allowed to expand
later when the bobbin is
becoming filled with yarn.
The small-balloon
condition is achieved by
allowing contact between
the rotating balloon and
the spindle top. As the
bobbin fills, contact is
lost and the yarn balloon
819
Word Category Short description Description
is allowed to expand.
The system is often used
for worsted and semi-
worsted spinning.
Special spindle top
extensions are used to
obtain the required
effect.
SEMI-DULL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Delustred. See under Delustred.
SEMI-MILLED FINISH processes,
operations
A finish on lightly
milled fabrics
containing wool
A finish on lightly milled
fabrics containing wool
SEMI-PERMANENT SET processes,
operations
See under Setting See under Setting
SEMI-SUPPRESSED
BALLOON SPINNING
processes,
operations
See Semi-collapsed
balloon spinning.
See Semi-collapsed
balloon spinning.
SEMI-WORSTED SPUN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A term applied to
yarn spun from sliver
produced by carding
and gilling in which
the fibres are
substantially parallel,
the carded sliver not
having been
condensed or
combed.
A term applied to yarn
spun from sliver
produced by carding and
gilling in which the fibres
are substantially parallel,
the carded sliver not
having been condensed
or combed. Alternately,
the yarn may be
produced from roving.
SENNIT ROPE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under Rope. See under Rope.
SENSITIZED processes,
operations
The chemical
treatment of a fabric
before curing to give
it a memory.
The chemical treatment
of a fabric before curing
to give it a memory. The
fabric is capable of
retaining the shape into
which it is formed by
subsequent curing. See
Curing and Memory
SEPARABLE PIN accessories In zippers, a tube-like
element attached
over the bead at the
bottom end of one
stringer.
In zippers, a tube-like
element attached over
the bead at the bottom
end of one stringer.
SEPARABLE ZIPPER accessories A zipper fitted with
special components
at the bottom of the
A zipper fitted with
special components at
the bottom of the chain,
820
Word Category Short description Description
chain so as to permit complete
disengagement and then
re-engagement of the
two stringers. (Compare
Non-separable zipper.)
SEPARATE ELEMENT
ZIPPER
accessories A zipper consisting
two series of
separately formed
elements
A zipper consisting two
series of separately
formed elements, each
attached to one of the
opposing edges of two
tapes which are engaged
and disengaged by the
movement of a slider.
(Compare Continuous
element zipper.)
SEPARATING COURSE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
In weft knitting, a
course of knitted
loops separating one
garment or garment
part from another
In weft knitting, a course
of knitted loops
separating one garment
or garment part from
another, that, on
removal, permits the
separation of articles that
are knitted as a
succession of
interconnected units.
Separat-ing coursed may
be cut, unroved, or
dissolved, and several
such courses may be
made consecutively.
SEPARATION accessories In printing, the
opaque painted or
photographically
produced positive of
all areas of one
design colour on
transparent film.
In printing, the opaque
painted or
photographically
produced positive of all
areas of one design
colour on transparent
film. Also known as a
Sketch or Tracing
SEQUENTIAL DRAW-
TEXTURING
processes,
operations
See under Draw
texturing.
See under Draw
texturing.
SEQUIN LACE fabrics A crochet lace made
of coloured yarn with
coloured braid for the
design
A crochet lace made of
coloured yarn with
coloured braid for the
design
SERGE fabrics Either a twill cloth or
a smooth faced plain-
weave material,
made from worsted
Either a twill cloth or a
smooth faced plain-
weave material, made
from worsted or woollen
821
Word Category Short description Description
or woollen yarn yarn.
Basically a firm,
compact, twill-weave
worsted (wool) fabric
with a clear face finish.
The 2/2 and 3/3 twills are
most commonly used. A
wide range of fabrics is
made varying in weight
and quality, in plain piece
dyed, yarn dyed and
fibre dyed mixture
colours. Woollen yarns
can also be used to
produce serges with a fi-
brous surface and
cheaper types are made
with a cotton warp and
woollen weft. Staple fibre
rayon is also used either
alone or blended with
wool. Conventional serge
should be reasonably
square in construction
giv-ing a twill diagonal of
45. The handle will vary
according to the quality
of wool used. Botany
wool serges are soft in
handle whilst crossbred
quality serges are harder
and rougher.
This is a basic suiting
fabric, used extensively
for uniforms particularly
in heavier weights up to
about 750 gm a running
metre. Cross-bred wool
qualities are used where
hardwearing properties
are more important than
softness of handle or
smoothness of
appearance.
Used for mens suits, but
more often for classic
coats, school uniforms,
etc. It becomes shiny
with wear but pressing
822
Word Category Short description Description
revitalises it.
SERGING processes,
operations
The operation of
neatening the cut
edge to avoid fraying,
by means of an
overedge stitch.
The operation of
neatening the cut edge
to avoid fraying, by
means of an overedge
stitch.
SERICEOUS general Made of silk; like silk Made of silk; like silk;
pertaining to silk.
SERICIN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The natural gum
cementing the two
fibroin filaments in a
silk bave.
The natural gum
cementing the two fibroin
filaments in a silk bave.
Sericin, a gelatinous
protein, comprises 20 to
30 % by mass of raw
silk. Unless the gum is
completely removed, silk
does not exhibit its
characteristic lustre,
smoothness as well as
softness
SERSICULTURE processes,
operations
The raising of
silkworms and
production of silk
The raising of silkworms
and production of silk
SET processes,
operations
See Sett. See Sett.
SET MARK defects A stop mark resulting
from a prolonged
loom shutdown.
A stop mark resulting
from a prolonged loom
shutdown. See Coarse
filling bar.
SET TWIST fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Dead
twist.
Also called Dead twist.
Description of the
condition of a yarn in
which an unbalanced
twisting couple has been
dissipated or rendered
latent by suitable
treatment such as
steaming.
SET YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Stabilised yarn. See Stabilised yarn.
SET-IN SLEEVE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A separate sleeve
which is attached to
the scye.
A separate sleeve which
is attached to the scye.
The shape of the junction
between the sleeve and
the body of a garment,
where the line runs from
823
Word Category Short description Description
the underarm to the
apparent top of the
extreme end of the
shoulder. The term is
used in both woven and
knitted garment
construction
SETT processes,
operations
Also called Set,
Pitch.
Also called Set, Pitch. A
term used to indicate the
density of ends or picks
or both in a woven fabric,
usually expressed as the
number of threads per
centimetre. The state of
fabric at the time should
be described, e.g.
loomstate or finished.
See also Count of reed.
SETT, SQUARE fabrics A fabric in which the
number of ends per
centimetre and the
number of picks per
centimetre are
approximately equal.
A fabric in which the
number of ends per
centimetre and the
number of picks per
centimetre are
approximately equal. For
practical reasons, the
linear densities of warp
and weft would normally
be approximately the
same in such a fabric
SETT, UNBALANCED fabrics A fabric in which
there is an
appreciable
difference between
the number of ends
and picks per
centimetre.
A fabric in which there is
an appreciable difference
between the number of
ends and picks per
centimetre.
SETTING processes,
operations
The process of
conferring stability of
form upon fibres,
yarns, fabrics, or
garments, usually by
means of successive
heating and cooling
in moist or dry
conditions.
The process of
conferring stability of
form upon fibres, yarns,
fabrics, or garments,
usually by means of
successive heating and
cooling in moist or dry
conditions. The different
grades of setting are:
Cohesive set: Set which
is destroyed by
immersing the set
824
Word Category Short description Description
material in water.
Temporary set: Set
which is destroyed by
ordinary usage.
Semi-permanent set: Set
which is resistant to
ordinary effects
experienced in use, but
which can be de-stroyed
(by deliberately applied)
more severe treatment.
Permanent set: Set in
which a structural
change takes place that
cannot be reversed.
More severe setting
treatments may cause
further irreversible
changes of structure.
It is observed that in
practice the term
permanent set is used
very loosely.
The term is sometimes
used in conjunction with
a description of the
particular characteristics
to be stabi-lised (e.g.
twist setting, crpe
setting, crimp setting, flat
setting) or of the setting
medium (e.g. heat
settimg, steam setting).
SEW processes,
operations
To unite or fasten
with stitches made
with a needle and
thread.
To unite or fasten with
stitches made with a
needle and thread.
SEW-IN WOVEN
INTERFACINGS
accessories Stiffened cotton sew-
in, Marquisette sew-
in...etc
There are different types:
Stiffened cotton sew-in:
An open wavy-weave
cotton stiffened to a crisp
finish. Suitable for firm
fabrics. Not cheap.
Washable.
Marquisette sew-in: An
open lattice-weave nylon
fabric. Very stiff and
unyielding. The sort of
thing to use for
825
Word Category Short description Description
underlining a brides
skirt. Not cheap.
Washable.
Viscose/cotton sew-in: A
lovely soft plain-weave
fabric, suitable for
mounting rather than
interfacing most fabrics.
Not cheap. Washable.
Sanforized cotton sew-in:
The trade name for
permanently stiffened
cotton interfacing
(although the proc-ess is
also applied to other
fabrics). It is slightly
open-weave cotton.
Slightly stiff. Washable.
Victoria sew-in: A fine
Lawn that is fairly stiff.
An excellent fabric to
interface medium-weight
crisp fab-rics. Not cheap.
Washable.
Shirt collar interfacing
sew-in: A plain, very
even weave cotton made
from a fairly heavy yarn.
It is very heavily
stiffened. Expensive but
obviously only small
amounts are required.
Washable.
Permastiff sew-in: The
trade name for a fabric
that has been treated
with the Permastiff finish.
The interfac-ing is a very
stiff fairly thick cotton
fabric of medium price.
Washable.
Tie Interfacing sew-in: A
thick, soft fabric made of
viscose fibre in plain
open-weave. In cream
only. It is used on the
bias for ties, so its
stiffness makes it very
pliable, yet the thickness
826
Word Category Short description Description
will give the tie sufficient
padding. Washable.
Pocketing sew-in: A
close-weave plain fabric,
usually cream and with a
glazed finish on the right
side. It is strong to
withstand wear but soft
so that the pocket bag
does not show through
the garment. Made from
vis-cose (Vincel) fibre.
Washable.
SEW-KNIT FABRIC fabrics See Stitch-bonded
fabric
See Stitch-bonded fabric
SEW-THROUGH FLANGE
BUTTON
accessories See under Button See under Button
SEWED YARN fabrics A yarn interwoven
into a fabric by hand
A yarn interwoven into a
fabric by hand
SEWING DEFECTS IN
GARMENT
defects See under Garment
defects, classified.
See under Garment
defects, classified.
SEWING OUT processes,
operations
Sewing of the
garment parts
together with the raw
edges turned in
Sewing of the garment
parts together with the
raw edges turned in
SEWING PREPARATION
DEFECTS IN GARMENT
defects See under Garment
defects, classified.
See under Garment
defects, classified.
SEWING THREAD accessories A flexible, small-
diameter yarn or
strand, usually
treated with a surface
coating, lubricant, or
both
A flexible, small-diameter
yarn or strand, usually
treated with a surface
coating, lubricant, or
both, intended to be
used to stitch one or
more pieces of material
or an object to a material
SEWN SEAM seams,
stitches
Also called Stitche
seam.
Also called Stitche seam.
In sewn fabrics, a
junction at which two or
more planar structures
such as textile fabrics,
are joined by sewing,
usually near the edge.
(Compare Glued seam,
Stapled seam,
Thermally-bonded
seam).
SHADE BAR defects See Bar. See Bar.
827
Word Category Short description Description
SHADE CHANGE defects A change from the
normal or expected
colour of a textile
material.
A change from the
normal or expected
colour of a textile
material. See also Colour
change.
SHADE CLOTH fabrics A plain weave fabric
that has been treated
with starch, oil and
chemicals so that it is
opaque.
A plain weave fabric that
has been treated with
starch, oil and chemicals
so that it is opaque.
Used for shades, it has
good body and feel and
the required stiffness
SHADED GOODS defects A finishing defect in
which the cloth
shows uneven
colouring.
A finishing defect in
which the cloth shows
uneven colouring.
Sometimes alternating
bright and dim lines
running across a cloth;
the cause often is poor
blending or mixing of
fibres, or faulty yarn
dyeing.
SHADING fabrics In coloured textile
fabrics, gradual
change in hue,
chroma and/or
lightness, lengthways
or widthways.
In coloured textile
fabrics, gradual change
in hue, chroma and/or
lightness, lengthways or
widthways. When
unintended, shading is
considered a defect; but
when, intentional it is for
styling purposes. See
also Pile reversal
SHADOW CHECK fabrics An indistinct,
shadowy-check
effect produced by
employing alternate
stripes of right-hand
and left-hand twist
yarns in both warp
and weft.
An indistinct, shadowy-
check effect produced by
employing alternate
stripes of right-hand and
left-hand twist yarns in
both warp and weft. The
effect is obtained without
changing the weave,
which is plain.
SHADOW LACE fabrics The density of the
stitch, forms the
pattern in this type of
machine-made lace.
The density of the stitch,
forms the pattern in this
type of machine-made
lace. There is no
outlining thread to make
the design stand out. It is
light and filmy and is
828
Word Category Short description Description
used for blouses,
evening dresses, etc.
SHADOW PRINT fabrics Silk.ribbon or
cretonne woven with
printed warp yarn
forming indistinct
design
Silk.ribbon or cretonne
woven with printed warp
yarn forming indistinct
design. Reversible.
SHADOW STRIPE
FABRIC
fabrics See Single bar atlas
fabric.
See Single bar atlas
fabric.
SHADOW STRIPE,
WOVEN
fabrics An effect, caused by
different reflections of
light, produced in
woven fabrics
An effect, caused by
different reflections of
light, produced in woven
fabrics by employing
yarns of different
characteristics, usually of
S- and Z-twist, in warp or
weft (or in both, when it
becomes a shadow
check).
SHADOW WEAVE fabrics The appearance of
reflected shadows
The appearance of
reflected shadows
produced: (a) by a
repetition of the weave
following an area of
darker shades of yarn
that causes a reflection
of light like shadows; (b)
in staple fabrics by
weaving in yarns that
have been treated in
directions opposite to
those used in the woven
fabric; (c) in herringbone
and diamond effects
used in worsted suitings
SHADOW WELT garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See After-welt See After-welt
SHADY FILLING defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Bright or
dim areas across the
fabric usually for the full
length of one bobbin.
There are other reasons
for shady filling in cloth,
such as some defect or
irregularity in any
process, treatment or
operation in processing
829
Word Category Short description Description
from yarn to fabric
SHAFT fabrics Term used to
describe the number
of sheds, necessary
to complete a
pattern, before a
repeat.
Term used to describe
the number of sheds,
necessary to complete a
pattern, before a repeat.
Used most often in
reference to satin, e.g.
five shaft satin.
SHAFTY WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Strong, dense and
well-grown wool with
good length and
spinning
characteristics.
Strong, dense and well-
grown wool with good
length and spinning
characteristics.
SHALLOON fabrics A 2/2 twill-weave
fabric made from
crossbred worsted
yarns, used as a
lining for coats,
liveries, etc.
A 2/2 twill-weave fabric
made from crossbred
worsted yarns, used as a
lining for coats, liveries,
etc.
SHAM garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A fabric covering for
a bed pillow, usually
of decorative fabric
that matches the
bedcovering.
A fabric covering for a
bed pillow, usually of
decorative fabric that
matches the
bedcovering.
SHAM HOLE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
An imitation
buttonhole.
An imitation buttonhole.
A double row of stitching
inserted in the fabric to
simulate a buttonhole.
SHANK garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A link between a
button and the fabric
to which it is sewn
A link between a button
and the fabric to which it
is sewn; it allows room
for the overlapping layer
of the garment.
SHANK BUTTON accessories See under Button See under Button
SHANTUNG fabrics This is a plain weave
fabric with an
unevenly ribbed
surface and a crisp
texture.
This is a plain weave
fabric with an unevenly
ribbed surface and a
crisp texture. The fabric
originated in Shantung
province of China where
the wild silkworms
produced a rougher and
more uneven type of silk
called wild silk which
when used as weft gave
an uneven fabric surface
which became the
830
Word Category Short description Description
characteristic of the
fabric. Ninghai, honan
and pongee are similar
types of fabric but
originating from different
Chinese districts. See
Wild silk and Tussah silk.
These types of fabric are
now extensively copied
in man-made fibres by
the use of deliberately
irregularly made filament
yarns. Cellulose acetate
is commonly used for
this type of fabric.
SHANTUNG-TYPE YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
An irregular yarn
made from fibres
other than natural silk
An irregular yarn made
from fibres other than
natural silk to imitate the
yarn used for making
shantung.
SHAPE processes,
operations
See Suppression. See Suppression.
SHAPE-SET garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The ability of a
garment or other
textile article to hold
its manufactured
shape as a result of
durable press
treatment
The ability of a garment
or other textile article to
hold its manufactured
shape as a result of
durable press treatment
SHAPING processes,
operations
IN GAREMENT
MANUFACTURE,
cutting of fabric in the
correct shape and
size by use of a
template or shaper,
e.g. at the lapel and
collar.
1. IN GAREMENT
MANUFACTURE, cutting
of fabric in the correct
shape and size by use of
a template or shaper,
e.g. at the lapel and
collar.
2. IN KNITTING, it
describes the process
used to shape a knitted
product during knitting by
changing the number of
stitches per course,
wale, or unit area in the
fabric. There are various
methods, which may be
used separately or in
combination. See Fully
fashioning, Selvedge
831
Word Category Short description Description
widening, Stitch holding,
Stitch shaping, and
Stitch transferring.
SHARKSKIN fabrics This originated as a
closely woven
compact twill fabric
made from delustred
man-made fibre
yarns such as
cellulose acetate
This originated as a
closely woven compact
twill fabric made from
delustred man-made
fibre yarns such as
cellulose acetate. Now,
made from worsted yarn,
this is an expensive
fabric in fancy or novelty
weaves, sometimes
mixing colours. It is of
fine texture and very
hardwearing. Acetate or
viscose sharkskin is
used for sportswear. It is
crisp and washes well.
Not hardwearing.
Occasionally made in
silk.
A compact form of warp
knitted fabric is also
made by using long
guide bar laps and using
the technical back of the
fabric as the effect side.
The effect is that of a
finely grained surface in
a compact firm fabric of
good weight but with
good draping properties.
Used for dress, suiting
and sportswear.
SHARP MARK fabrics A printed design that
has a sharp, well-
defined edge with no
migration of colour or
blurring.
A printed design that has
a sharp, well-defined
edge with no migration of
colour or blurring.
SHAWL garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
An oblong, triangle or
square piece of fabric
made of a great
variety of fibres in a
wide range of sizes
An oblong, triangle or
square piece of fabric
made of a great variety
of fibres in a wide range
of sizes. Worn as loose
covering for the head
and/or shoulders
SHEAR MARKS defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. An
832
Word Category Short description Description
unevenly marked, or cut,
nap on the cloth. Slubs,
knots, and kinks often
tend to make for
unevenness in shearing.
Shear marks easily show
to poor advantage when
light strikes the fabric.
SHEAR STRAINING fabrics See under Shearing
property.
See under Shearing
property.
SHEARED TERRY PILE fabrics See under Velour See under Velour
SHEARING fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
Cutting fleece from
sheep.
1. Cutting fleece from
sheep.
2. See Cropping.
SHEARING PROPERTY fabrics The deformation of a
fabric structure in
which a rectangular
element becomes
lozenge shaped is
termed shear
straining.
The deformation of a
fabric structure in which
a rectangular element
becomes lozenge
shaped is termed shear
straining. In woven
fabrics this results from
movement of yarns from
normal position in which
yarns run horizontally
and vertically and
interlace at right angles,
to other positions in
which the interlacing is
deformed to less than
90-degree angle.
Bending and shear
formation has an effect
on drape and handle of
fabrics. Fabrics that
shear easily will be softer
and more drapable. The
draping qualities are
affected by the stiffness
of the fibre and yarn, the
size of the yarn, and
particularly the fabric
construction. In tight
structures, especially
where coarse yarns are
packed tightly together,
fabrics are likely to be
stiff and less drapable. In
833
Word Category Short description Description
loose structures where
yarns can move easily
over one another, fabrics
are likely to be softer and
drape more easily.
In general, because of
the ways in which yarns
are combined, woven
fabrics have higher
shearability than knitted
fabrics do. Warp knits
have lower shearability
than weft knits.
SHEARS apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A band cutting tool
similar to scissors,
but with angled
blades and thumb
rests, and with a
cutting edge of at
least 20 cm.
A band cutting tool
similar to scissors, but
with angled blades and
thumb rests, and with a
cutting edge of at least
20 cm.
SHEATH fibers,
filaments,
yarns
IN FIBRE. The outer
part of a fibre
1. IN FIBRE. The outer
part of a fibre.
2. IN FEATHERS. A
covering at the quill point
end of nestling feathers
or nestling down which
holds the barbs together.
SHEATH-CORE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A descriptive term for
a multicomponent
textile fibre consisting
of a continuous
envelope which
encases a
continuous, central,
internal region.
A descriptive term for a
multicomponent textile
fibre consisting of a
continuous envelope
which encases a
continuous, central,
internal region. See also
Component polymer.
SHED processes,
operations
The opening formed
when the warp
threads are
separated in the
operation of weaving.
The opening formed
when the warp threads
are separated in the
operation of weaving.
SHEDDING processes,
operations
The operation of
forming the shed in
weaving.
The operation of forming
the shed in weaving. See
also Warp shed.
SHEEPSKIN fabrics The skin of the sheep
or goat with the wool
on the outside or
inside.
The skin of the sheep or
goat with the wool on the
outside or inside. A
suede finish is usually
applied to the skin side.
834
Word Category Short description Description
Bulky to handle
SHEER fabrics The name given to a
group of
transparently thin or
diaphanous fabric
The name given to a
group of transparently
thin or diaphanous fabric.
Plain-weave type fabrics
such as organdie,
chiffon, organza, voile,
where the fineness of the
yarns and openness of
the weave gives varying
degrees of regular
translucence and an
even texture. The
appearance of a very
fine pair of ladies
stockings illustrates the
textural and visual
properties conveyed by
this expression.
There is no clear
distinction between
sheer fabrics and
nonsheer fabrics.
Generally, the purchaser
and the seller agree in
advance into which
category a fabric should
be classified.
SHEET garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under Sheeting. See under Sheeting.
SHEET BLANKET fabrics A thin blanket of
cotton or cotton and
synthetic blend
having a nap on both
sides.
A thin blanket of cotton
or cotton and synthetic
blend having a nap on
both sides.
SHEETING fabrics A class of fabrics in a
wide range of counts
and widths.
A class of fabrics in a
wide range of counts and
widths. They are
generally heavier than
usual print fabrics are.
Since the introduction of
fitted sheets and duvets,
sheeting has been made
available as piece goods.
It can be plain or printed
and in all colours. Mostly
cotton polyester blend for
835
Word Category Short description Description
easy care. Used for
sheets, pillowcases,
duvet covers, valances,
curtains. Soft and easy
to handle.
Fitted sheet: A product
usually made with boxed
corners, sometimes
elasticised, with shape
and size to conform to
the contours of the
mattress and used for
covering the mattress on
a bed.
Flannel: As applied to
sheeting, a napped fabric
used in the fabrication of
sheeting products.
Flat sheet: In textiles, a
flat, hemmed product,
usually rectangular, used
for covering the mattress
on a bed and used for
sleeping on or under.
Muslin: As applied to bed
sheeting, a plain weave
fabric with not fewer than
180 yarns/in2.
Percale: As applied to
bed sheeting, a plain
weave fabric with not
fewer than 180 yarns/in2.
Sheet: In textiles, a large
rectangular usually plain
woven fabricated product
which is used over a
mattress on a bed. The
product may be carded
or combed yarn in a wide
range of constructions.
SHELL COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A class of heavy
impurities found in
excessive seed
coverings and fleshy
kernels of cotton.
A class of heavy
impurities found in
excessive seed
coverings and fleshy
kernels of cotton.
SHELL-STTICH FABRIC fabrics A warp knitted fabric
having a raised shell-
like surface
A warp knitted fabric
having a raised shell-like
surface produced by
holding loops on certain
836
Word Category Short description Description
needles while knitting
takes place on others at
each course. The
arrangement of the held
loops in pattern
formation gives the shell-
like effect.
SHEPHERDS CHECK fabrics Description of a
traditional Scottish
Border design in 6
mm squares of black
and white.
Description of a
traditional Scottish
Border design in 6 mm
squares of black and
white. The size of check
remains the same
regardless of the
thickness of the yarn. A
twill weave, producing
alternate solid black
squares and diagonally
striped squares. In wool
it is used for shawls,
caps, coats. In worsted,
it is it is used for mens
suiting. In cotton, acrylic,
polyester fibres, it is a
lighter weight washable
fabric used for shirts,
sports clothes, childrens
clothes. See also
Checks.
SHEPHERDS PLAID fabrics See Shepherds
check.
See Shepherds check.
SHETLAND fabrics A suiting fabric made
wholly or partially of
Shetland wool.
1. A suiting fabric made
wholly or partially of
Shetland wool. The cloth
has a raised finish and a
rather soft handle. Used
for suiting and
sportswear.
2. A soft knitted fabric
made of Shetland wool.
SHETLAND WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Real Shetland wool
is the underneath
part of fleece of
Shetland sheep,
pulled out by hand in
springtime
Real Shetland wool is
the underneath part of
fleece of Shetland
sheep, pulled out by
hand in springtime. It has
a characteristic softness
and is made into yarn for
soft suiting and knitting
837
Word Category Short description Description
yarns. Very expensive.
The term is now often
used to describe other
woollen yarns of equal
softness
SHIER defects Also called Shire Also called Shire. Fabric
defect in woven fabrics.
The weftwise cracks
randomly distributed
across the fabric width.
(Compare Let-off mark
and Crack mark.)
SHIFTING defects Distortion of a fabric
due to unexpected
movement of the
yarns.
Distortion of a fabric due
to unexpected movement
of the yarns. Also called
Slippage.
SHINER defects Fabric defect Fabric defect. A streak,
usually short, caused by
a lustrous section of a
filament yarn, caused
mostly by excessive
tension applied to the
yarn during its
processing. Faulty
weaving also may give a
flat effect to the yarn and
can be easily noted
when the rays of light
strike the fabric.
Improper friction in the
mouth of the shuttle also
sometimes cause the
effect on fabrics. They
appear mostly in fabrics
of filament acetate or
rayon and silk
SHIPMENT general Goods or
commodities which
are transported
together as a unit
Goods or commodities
which are transported
together as a unit; a
quantity of product for
which a bill of lading has
been signed by the
carrier.
SHIRE defects Same as Shier. Same as Shier.
SHIRLEY CLOTH fabrics A type of cotton
fabric made of
mercerised yarns
produced from long-
A type of cotton fabric
made of mercerised
yarns produced from
long-staple cotton. Ply
838
Word Category Short description Description
staple cotton. yarns are used in the
warp, with a soft twist
yarn in the weft. When
the fabric is wet, the
fibres (especially those in
the weft) swell and set
up a barrier against
further moisture
SHIRRED FABRICS fabrics A range of fabrics
with one edge
elasticised to a depth
of 6-10 cm and made
available as ready-to
sew skirt and
sundress fabrics
A range of fabrics with
one edge elasticised to a
depth of 6-10 cm and
made available as ready-
to sew skirt and
sundress fabrics. Very
easy to sew, as only one
seam has to be sewn to
make a skirt. Often of
cotton fabric, but may be
of others such as
polyester, usually
printed. Often sold as
ready-cut skirt lengths.
Used for casual clothes
and childrens tops and
dresses.
SHIRRING seams,
stitches
A decorative method
of controlling fullness
with several parallel
rows of gathering,
A decorative method of
controlling fullness with
several parallel rows of
gathering, which is
usually done with multi-
needle chain stitch
machines using elastic
thread in the looper.
SHIRT COLLAR
INTERFACING SEW-IN
accessories See under Sew-in
woven interfacing.
See under Sew-in woven
interfacing.
SHIRTING fabrics Any fabric of any
fibre that is closely
woven and implies
absorbent,
hardwearing
qualities.
Any fabric of any fibre
that is closely woven and
implies absorbent,
hardwearing qualities.
The most common are
made from cotton, silk,
polyester and cotton.
SHIVES defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Vegetable
matter found in woollen
fabrics such as neps,
straw, leaf particles,
motes, etc.
SHODDY fibers, Fibres made from Fibres made from
839
Word Category Short description Description
filaments,
yarns
ground-up rags and
mixed with other
fibres to reduce cost
ground-up rags and
mixed with other fibres to
reduce cost. See also
Re-manufactured wool.
SHOE FOLD fabrics A method of fabric
folding
A method of fabric
folding; fabric folded from
both ends into twelve or
sixteen folds to the
piece, the length of the
fold depending upon the
length of the piece.
(Compare Book fold.)
SHOOT fabrics,
processes,
operations
See Pick. See Pick.
SHORN PILE fabrics Pile that is removed
when a specimen is
sheared.
Pile that is removed
when a specimen is
sheared.
SHORT STAPLE
SPINNING
processes,
operations
The use of cotton
spinning machinery
The use of cotton
spinning machinery to
produce staple yarns
from cotton or any other
type of fibre possessing
similar length and
fineness. See also
Cotton spun
SHORT WOOLS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Those wools which
average in length
between 1 to 6
inches in staple
length.
Those wools which
average in length
between 1 to 6 inches in
staple length.
SHOT fabrics See Pick. See Pick.
SHOT EFFECT fabrics,
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Term used to
describe the effect
created by using one
colour in the warp
and a totally different
colour in the weft.
1. Term used to describe
the effect created by
using one colour in the
warp and a totally
different colour in the
weft. Any fibre may be
used, but the most
effective are the shiny
ones, such as acetate,
polyester and silk. See
also Changeable effect.
2. In pile floor covering,
The number of weft
yarns per row of tufts.
SHOT TAFFETA fabrics One of the most One of the most
840
Word Category Short description Description
luxurious types of
Taffeta
luxurious types of
Taffeta, as it is made
from two colours and can
be seen to change colour
as wearer moves. See
also Shot
SHOTTING YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A single weft yarn
used in weaving
gunny sacking.
A single weft yarn used
in weaving gunny
sacking.
SHOULDER accessories In zippers, the
bearing surface of an
interlocking element
by which the chain is
contained inside the
flanges of the slider.
In zippers, the bearing
surface of an interlocking
element by which the
chain is contained inside
the flanges of the slider.
SHOULDER J OINT garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related
term.
Garment-related term.
See under Garment
sizing system
SHOULDER LENGTH garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related term Garment-related term.
See under Garment
sizing system.
SHOULDER SLOPE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related
term.
Garment-related term.
See under Garment
sizing system
SHOWER CURTAIN garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A hanging fabric
used to prevent
water spillage from a
shower area.
A hanging fabric used to
prevent water spillage
from a shower area.
SHOWER-PROOF processes,
operations
A process by which a
garment is made
resistant to light rain
A process by which a
garment is made
resistant to light rain; it is
always described as
shower proofing not
waterproofing
SHOWER-PROOF
FABRIC
fabrics A base fabric of
cotton, or polyester
and cotton,
resembling
cheesecloth in
appearance and
sprayed on one side
with latex to make it
shower-proof.
A base fabric of cotton,
or polyester and cotton,
resembling cheesecloth
in appearance and
sprayed on one side with
latex to make it shower-
proof. The layer of latex
is quite thin so the right
side of the fabric is wrin-
kled like cheesecloth. It
is a soft, fairly floppy
fabric. Used for
raincoats, jackets, hats,
841
Word Category Short description Description
etc. Does not fray at all.
SHOWER-PROOF
POLYESTER/COTTON
fabrics Medium-weight fabric
with a shower-proof
finish, usually in plain
colours only.
Medium-weight fabric
with a shower-proof
finish, usually in plain
colours only. Used for
raincoats, anoraks, etc.
Seams may be inclined
to wrinkle, especially
across the warp
direction. Springy fabric.
SHOWER-PROOFED
CORDS
fabrics See under Corduroy See under Corduroy
SHRINK RESISTANT fabrics A fabric that has
been stabilised to
shrinkage.
A fabric that has been
stabilised to shrinkage.
Mechanical means,
chemical modification of
the fibres and resin
treatments may be
employed to prevent
fabrics from shrinking
SHRINKAGE general A dimensional
change of an object
or material resulting
in a decrease in one
or more dimensions
i.e. the length or
width of a specimen.
A dimensional change of
an object or material
resulting in a decrease in
one or more dimensions
i.e. the length or width of
a specimen.
SHRINKAGE CONTROL processes,
operations
Various processes,
either mechanical or
chemical, are used to
minimise shrinkage
of fabrics and
garments
Various processes,
either mechanical or
chemical, are used to
minimise shrinkage of
fabrics and garments;
compressive shrinkage
of a cotton fabric holds
residual shrinkage to
less than 1 % in either
width or length.
SHRINKAGE OF COTTON
FABRICS
fabrics Relaxation
shrinkage, Washing
shrinkage
There are two types of
shrinkage in cotton
fabrics.
Relaxation shrinkage:
Relaxation shrinkage is
caused by relaxing of
tensions imposed in
fabric manufac-ture and
finishing. The warmth
and moisture of washing
processes provide ideal
842
Word Category Short description Description
relaxation conditions. As
cotton is not a very
extensible fibre
relaxation shrinkage is
not great and in itself is
not a problem.
Washing shrinkage:
Washing shrinkage is
caused by physical
adjustments in the fabric,
brought about by
swelling of the fibres
when wet. When the
interlaced yarns of a
woven fabric swell room
to accommodate this
swelling must be found.
This room is most
commonly provided by
the weft yarns being
compressed closer
together, by the warp
yarns which interlace
with them. This
compressing action
takes place over a
number of washes until
equilibrium is reached
and the fabric will not
shrink any further. This
was the rea-son why pre-
washing of fabric was
never a success as
shrinkage treatment
because one wash is
never suffi-cient and in
any case many felt that it
left the fabric second-
hand looking without the
smart mill finish. Width-
way shrinkage is not
normally a problem
except in special fabric
types such as crpe;
most shrinkage is in
length because the initial
tension on the warp
yarns usually spaces the
weft yarns sufficiently for
843
Word Category Short description Description
com-pression room to be
available. There is no
contraction of individual
cotton fibres.
SHRINKAGE OF WOOL
FABRIC
fabrics Relaxation
Shrinkage, Milling or
Felting Shrinkage
They are subject to two
forms of shrinkage.
Relaxation Shrinkage:
Wool has considerable
powers of extension and
recovery so that tensions
are accu-mulated during
manufacture and
finishing. When all
processes are completed
the wool fibres if left
alone will try to creep
back to their unstressed
length. In fabrics also
tension in warp direction
is the greater so greater
relaxation contraction
takes place in that
direction. Because of the
stretching capacity of
wool, and because
relaxation shrinkage is
completely independent
of washing, it presents a
great problem in wool
fab-ric use. Wool shrinks
when washed, but
relaxation shrinkage a
complete mystery for
many when it happens
without washing contact.
Heat and moisture
produced in pressing or
even in wear can
produce relaxation
shrinkage.
Knitted wool fabrics are
also subject to relaxation
shrinkage, but it is area
shrinkage and not as
directional as in woven
fabric. Because of the
greater elasticity of
knitted structure control
of dimensional stability of
844
Word Category Short description Description
knitted fabrics is more
difficult.
Milling or Felting
Shrinkage: Because of
the well known difficulties
in washing, many wool
fabrics are not intended
to be washed but even
so some degree of felting
can take place.
Felting is produced by
the combined effect of
heat, moisture and
movement on a mass of
wool fibres. Heat and
moisture make the fibres
swollen and soft and
flexible. In this condition
they readily move when
the mass is agitated. A
dominant characteristic
of the wool fibre is the
scaly surface which
varies accordingly to
quality. Soft fine wool are
covered with scales and
the scale-tips project
giving a serrated edge to
the fibre. The tips project
in the same direction and
this has a ratchet effect,
i.e. it allows movement in
one direction only.
Movement in the
opposite direction is
prevented by the
protruding scale tips and
the fibres catch and
tangle with each other as
they attempt to move
back. This one-way
movement causes a
mass of fibres to
gradually become denser
as felting proceeds with
a consequent reduction
in volume. Felting is
progressive and
shrinkage will occur as
845
Word Category Short description Description
long as felting conditions
operate so that pre-
shrinking, as for cotton,
is completely ineffective.
The common-sense
washing instructions for
wool, i.e. luke warm
water, mild soap,
minimum of rubbing and
squeezing are designed
to minimise felting and to
delay its onset.
The basic principle of
ant-felting treatment is of
modifying the surface
scale structure to allow
two-way fi-bre
movement.
SHROPSHIRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A woollen fibre type
named after the
county of Shropshire.
A woollen fibre type
named after the county
of Shropshire. The staple
is about 3 inches long.
SHROUD LAID ROPE accessories See under Rope. See under Rope.
SHUTTLE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
IN LOOM. A yarn
package carrier that
is projected through
the shed to insert
weft yarn during
weaving. It carries
sufficient weft for
several picks.
1. IN LOOM. A yarn
package carrier that is
projected through the
shed to insert weft yarn
during weaving. It carries
sufficient weft for several
picks.
2. IN SEWING
MACHINE. An oscillating
device, used to carry the
under-thread and pick up
the needle thread in
some types of lockstitch
machines
SHUTTLE BOX apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The compartment at
each end of the lay of
the loom for retaining
the shuttle during
beating-up.
The compartment at
each end of the lay of the
loom for retaining the
shuttle during beating-
up.
SHUTTLE MARK defects Fabric defect. Also
called Box mark, Box
stain
Fabric defect. Also called
Box mark, Box stain. A
fine weftwise line caused
by damage to a group of
warp yarns by shuttle
abrasion or by oil stains
846
Word Category Short description Description
of some sort from the
shuttle.
SHUTTLE RACE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The shelf at the base
of the reed on which
the shuttle is carried.
The shelf at the base of
the reed on which the
shuttle is carried.
SHUTTLE SMASH defects Also called Box
mark. Defect, in
woven fabric; major.
Also called Box mark.
Defect, in woven fabric;
major. This occurs when
a few or many warp ends
are broken because of
an imperfect shuttle
being used, or when two
shuttles meet or kiss in
the shed of the loom.
Other reasons for
smashes include a
trapped shuttle in the
shed of the loom or a
harness strap loosening
or breaking altogether
SHUTTLE TRAP MARK defects Fabric defect Fabric defect. A
disturbance of the weave
or a localised pucker of
the fabric that extends
over an area
corresponding to the
dimensions of a shuttle.
It is caused mainly by an
incomplete cycle of the
picking motion, resulting
a trapping of the shuttle
between the reed and
the fell of the cloth
SHUTTLELESS LOOM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A loom in which an
alternative to the
shuttle is used.
A loom in which an
alternative to the shuttle
is used. Such looms
currently in industrial use
can be grouped into
three main classes
according to the means
employed to convey the
weft through the warp
shed.
Missile loom: The free
end of the weft is
attached to a missile
which is projected from
one side of the loom to
847
Word Category Short description Description
the other; once launched
it moves freely, no longer
in contact with the
picking- mechanism, and
thus, like a shuttle, is not
a normal engineering
component, so that
looms employing this
method must be
reckoned as imperfect
machines. The missiles
are also variously
referred to as Gripper-
shuttle, Gripper, Dummy-
shuttle, or Projectiles.
Rapier loom: An arm is
used, which may be rigid
or flexible, either to take
the weft all the way
across or to take it half-
way and transfer it to
another arm which has
entered the shed
simultaneously from the
opposite side and
withdraws to take it the
rest of the way. An arm
may operate on the weft
either by gripping its free
end or by engaging a
loop which slips freely
through an eye or round
a pin or other smooth
control surface situated
near the end of the arm.
The arms used on
narrow-fabric and carpet
looms are rigid and are
called needles; the
former are usually
curved, the latter
straight. The arms on
other looms are usually
called rapi-ers, whether
or not they are rigid, but
flexible rapiers are also
called tapes, which,
apart from their gripping
or guiding heads, is an
848
Word Category Short description Description
accurate description of
the form they take.
Fluid-jet loom: In this the
method of conveying the
weft is to propel it by
means of a fluid-jet,
using the word fluid in its
scientific sense to
include gases as well as
liquids. The fluid used is
in fact, either air or wa-
ter, and normally the
looms employing this
method are referred to
more specifically as
either Air-jet or Wa-ter-jet
looms. From main points
of view it is legitimate to
consider these two kinds
of weft insertion as be-
ing distinct, because a jet
of water behaves
differently from one of air
and, by wetting the warp,
weft, cloth and many
loom components,
creates problems not
present with any other
type of loom
SHUTTLELESS
WEAVING
processes,
operations
Weaving with a
shuttleless loom.
Weaving with a
shuttleless loom.
SI UNIT SYSTEM general See International unit
system.
See International unit
system.
SICILIENNE fabrics First made in Sicily
as a coarse-weave
lining fabric of mohair
and cotton
First made in Sicily as a
coarse-weave lining
fabric of mohair and
cotton. Is now a plain-
woven fabric with heavy
weft ribs, made from silk,
cotton and wool mixtures
and resembling poplin in
appearance. It is used as
an occasional dress
fabric.
SIDDO RAGS garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Also called Syddo
rags.
Also called Syddo rags.
Rags consisting of
interlinings from
garments. The best
849
Word Category Short description Description
types are produced from
fabrics made from yarns
of hair, or blends of hair
with wool, made on the
worsted system.
SIDE TO SIDE processes,
operations
See Square Repeat See Square Repeat
SIDE WITHDRAWAL processes,
operations
The unwinding of
yarn from a package
with the yarn roughly
perpendicular to the
package axis.
The unwinding of yarn
from a package with the
yarn roughly
perpendicular to the
package axis.
SIDE-BY SIDE
BICOMPONENT
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under
Bicomponent fibres
See under Bicomponent
fibres
SIDES fabrics See under Knitted
Loop
See under Knitted Loop
SIEVE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In printing, the part of
a swimming-tub
which furnishes the
block with colour.
In printing, the part of a
swimming-tub which
furnishes the block with
colour.
SIGHTING COLOUR See Fugitive tint. See Fugitive tint.
SILENCE CLOTH fabrics A heavy, thick cotton
flannel fabric used as
pad under tablecloths
to protect the table
top and deaden
noise.
1. A heavy, thick cotton
flannel fabric used as
pad under tablecloths to
protect the table top and
deaden noise.
2. Draperies and wall
coverings used in audio
studios and elsewhere to
absorb sound.
SILESIA fabrics Lightweight cotton
twill fabric with a
calendered glaze.
Lightweight cotton twill
fabric with a calendered
glaze. Is very closely
woven and very
hardwearing. Made in a
limited range of colours.
Used as a lining fabric,
and in tailoring for the
bags of pockets.
SILHICON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A bast fibre obtained
from several pieces
of Sida, in the
Philippines.
A bast fibre obtained
from several pieces of
Sida, in the Philippines.
Used mainly for making
twine and sometimes for
fabric
SILHOUETTE fabrics A plain weave fabric A plain weave fabric
850
Word Category Short description Description
made with cotton
warp and different
coloured linen warp
made with cotton warp
and different coloured
linen warp to produce a
changeable effect.
SILICA FIBRES fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Commonly described
also as Ceramic
fibres.
Commonly described
also as Ceramic fibres.
These are inorganic
fibres, and they come
within the category of
high-temperature fibres.
Silica fibres made by
different methods are
similar, in that they are
all basically silica, but
they differ in certain
characteristics which
derive from differences in
their methods of
production; Quartz fibres,
Silica (G) fibres, and
Silica (V) fibres.
SILICATE COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Slag wool. See Slag wool.
SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A natural fibre
unreeled from the
cocoon of the silk
worm.
A natural fibre unreeled
from the cocoon of the
silk worm. As a textile
fibre silk occupies a very
unique position, though
relatively only a very
small quantity is
produced. No other fibre
possesses such a
combination of beauty
and strength. It is
expensive and scarce;
hence as a clothing fibre
it is always associ-ated
with class and status. It
is the only natural
filament used for textile
purposes. There are two
main types; Mulberry
silk and Tussah silk.
There are various types
silk fabrics, e.g. Brocade,
Douppion, Crpe de
chine, Satin, etc.
851
Word Category Short description Description
The filament is excreted
by the silkworm, the
caterpillar of a moth, in
the form of a so-called
bave. This consists of
two separate, very fine,
continuous filaments of
the true silk fibre
composed of fibroin,
embed-ded in a
surrounding sheath of
sericin, also known as
silk-gum. The gum
amounts to between 20
t0 25% of the total weight
of the bave.
With the twin filament the
caterpillar produces a
protective casing known
as a cocoon around itself
before the chrysalis
stage of its life. Inside
this casing it would
normally change into a
moth and emerge when
the change had been
completed.
Silk filaments are
obtained by unwinding
the cocoons in groups of
six to eight at a time and
reeling the re-sultant fine
thread, after the
silkworms have been
stifled by steam. This is a
tedious operation
requiring much skill,
because to obtain a
regular even thread the
beginning and end parts
have to be discarded, so
that although a cocoon
can contain about 3000
metres of filament the
amount of first quality
filament can be less than
1000 m. The sericin is
dispersed by hot soap
solutions to which a mild
852
Word Category Short description Description
alkali such as sodium
car-bonate may be
added. The fibroin which
remains after removal of
the gum is a protein fibre
The bulk of silk produced
is cultivated; i.e. the
silkworms are reared on
farms and cared for at
every stage of
development. Suitable
climate is of prime
importance for silk
production. China and
J apan produce most of
the worlds cultivated
silk; southern France,
Italy and parts of Asia
produce small quantities.
Silk is elastic and
resilient similar to wool
though not quite as
good, and fairly strong
though slightly lesser
than cotton. Silk is
crease-resistant, not so
good as wool, but
superior to cotton and
linen. They can be
treated to give them
scroop (rustling sound
with movement), and
also can be stiffened by
weighing with certain
salts to produce fabrics
with more body, a firmer
drape and freedom from
slippage of yarns. This
unique combination of
properties, together with
its rich lustre, fineness,
absorbency,
smoothness, and su-
perb drape enables silk
to be converted into
many beautiful types of
fabrics, varying from
delicate chiffons to
beautiful heavy
853
Word Category Short description Description
brocades.
In addition there are wild
silks, the best-known
variety wild silk is Tussah
silk. See Wild silk and
Tussah silk.
Waste filaments from all
stages of production is
converted into spun silk,
i.e. lengths of filament
spun as staple fibres.
This type of material
lacks lustre, fineness and
general character of
filament silk.
SILK BURLAP fabrics Silk fabric of linen
weight, but feels light
and drapes well
Silk fabric of linen
weight, but feels light
and drapes well. Various
widths. Used for suits
and dresses.
SILK FINISHED processes,
operations
A finish employed on
sewing cottons to
give them the smooth
glossy appearance of
silk.
A finish employed on
sewing cottons to give
them the smooth glossy
appearance of silk. The
cotton is treated with a
special finishing material
and polished
SILK J ACQUARD fabrics Medium-weight,
luxurious, patterned,
silk fabrics
Medium-weight,
luxurious, patterned, silk
fabrics. Depending on
the design, the J acquard
weave may give a moir
effect. Fabrics drape well
and as silk dyes so well,
will often be found in
jewel-rich colours. Used
for evening and bridal
wear, luxury suits,
blouses and kimonos.
SILK J ERSEY fabrics Fine, lightweight
knitted fabric, often
printed.
Fine, lightweight knitted
fabric, often printed.
Drapes beautifully, wears
well and always looks
superb. Used for special
outfits; dresses, blouses,
long dresses. Like all
light jersey, it has a lot of
elasticity.
854
Word Category Short description Description
SILK LAP processes,
operations
In warp knitting, a
lapping movement
produced on a
Milanese machine
In warp knitting, a
lapping movement
produced on a Milanese
machine in which the
yarn traverses two wales
per course. See also
Milanese.
SILK MOUSSELINE fabrics See Mousseline. See Mousseline.
SILK NOIL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The fibres extracted
during silk dressing
or those that are too
short for producing
spun silk
The fibres extracted
during silk dressing or
those that are too short
for producing spun silk.
These fibres are usually
spun on the condenser
system to produce what
are known as silk noil
yarns. See also Bourette.
SILK NOIL FABRIC fabrics An attractive silk
fabric of dress or suit
weight
An attractive silk fabric of
dress or suit weight, its
feature is that it has
small pieces of cocoon
woven in it and these
appear as dark cream
flecks
SILK SATIN fabrics Very soft lustrous
fabric for luxury
lingerie.
Very soft lustrous fabric
for luxury lingerie. Is
expensive and drapes
beautifully but creases.
Used for all items of
lingerie, especially in
conjunction with lace.
SILK SHANTUNG fabrics Medium weight silk
fabric woven with
irregular yarns.
Medium weight silk fabric
woven with irregular
yarns. The fabric has a
dull appearance and
rough texture and is
popular for blouses,
shirts and dresses. It is
also referred to as
Nankeen or Rajah and
also sometimes carries
the name of the province
where the yarn
originated
SILK THREAD fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A synonym for ply in
silk
A synonym for ply in silk,
e.g. 2 thread and 2 ply
may both be used to
describe a silk thread.
855
Word Category Short description Description
SILK TWILL fabrics Soft twill weave silk
fabric without much
body, usually printed.
Soft twill weave silk
fabric without much
body, usually printed.
Printed squares often
made up as scarves.
Used for blouses,
decorative features, and
pyjamas.
SIMILI BINDING fabrics See under Binding. See under Binding.
SIMILI MERCERIZING processes,
operations
A calendering
process for
increasing lustre.
A calendering process
for increasing lustre. The
effect is similar to that
obtained by mercerising
but is not permanent
SIMPLE RANDOM
SAMPLING
processes,
operations
Same as Random
sampling.
Same as Random
sampling.
SIMPLEX FABRIC fabrics A reversible double-
faced fabric usually
made on two needle
bars of a bearded-
needle warp-knitting
machine
A reversible double-
faced fabric usually
made on two needle bars
of a bearded-needle
warp-knitting machine;
the two sets of warp
threads are meshed
together successively on
each needle bar to
produce a fabric that
normally has the same
appearance on both
sides
SIMPLEX PRINTING processes,
operations
Printing of one side
of the cloth only.
Printing of one side of
the cloth only.
SIMPLEX WARP-
KNITTING MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A double needle bar
machine using
bearded needles
mounted vertically or
nearly so, in which
the fabric is
supported and
controlled by sinkers.
A double needle bar
machine using bearded
needles mounted
vertically or nearly so, in
which the fabric is
supported and controlled
by sinkers. The fabric is
removed from the
knitting zone in a
downward direction.
SIMULTANEOUS
CONTRAST
fabrics An effect produced
when two colours are
placed side by side
An effect produced when
two colours are placed
side by side; each takes
on the shade or tinge of
the adja-cent colours
complement
856
Word Category Short description Description
SIMULTANEOUS DRAW-
TEXTURING
processes,
operations
See under Draw
texturing.
See under Draw
texturing.
SINGEING processes,
operations
The process of
burning loose fibre
ends or fuzz from
cotton yarns or cloth
by passing it over a
flame or heated
plates.
The process of burning
loose fibre ends or fuzz
from cotton yarns or
cloth by passing it over a
flame or heated plates.
This gives the fabric a
smoother surface and is
helpful when fabrics are
to be printed and when
smooth finishes are
desired. Same as
Gassing.
SINGLE BAR ATLAS
FABRIC
fabrics Fabric. Also called
Vandyke fabric,
Shadow stripe fabric.
Fabric. Also called
Vandyke fabric, Shadow
stripe fabric. A warp-
knitted fabric
characterised by having
one set of threads
traversing in a diagonal
manner, one wale per
course for a number of
courses, returning in the
same manner to the
original wale. Open or
closed laps may be
used.
SINGLE CANVAS fabrics Popular plain weave
cotton, or cotton and
polyester,
embroidery canvas of
fine construction
Popular plain weave
cotton, or cotton and
polyester, embroidery
canvas of fine
construction, with easily
dis-tinguished holes
between the warp and
weft threads
SINGLE HEAD LOOM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A narrow-fabric loom
that weaves one
piece only.
A narrow-fabric loom that
weaves one piece only.
SINGLE J ERSEY fabrics Made on knitting
machines with one
row of needles
producing a fabric
that is smooth and
even on the right
side, but uneven on
the under side.
Made on knitting
machines with one row
of needles producing a
fabric that is smooth and
even on the right side,
but uneven on the under
side. The fabric is
lightweight and tends to
curl at edges. Used for
857
Word Category Short description Description
tops and trousers. Made
from all fibres and blends
of fibres.
Often wool, but may
contain a little acrylic
fibre. Is a knit fabric that
is thin and curls at the
edges. The right side
only has the stocking
stitch appearance; the
wrong side is the reverse
and like hand knitting in
effect. Single jersey may
be in plain or mixed
colours, in random
stripes, or with a marked
appearance. It is soft and
drapy. Used for soft
gathered dresses and
suits. See also J ersey.
SINGLE J ERSEY (PLAIN
WEB) KNITTING
MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A machine, usually
circular, with a single
set of needles
A machine, usually
circular, with a single set
of needles, used for the
production of piece
goods on a plain fabric
basis
SINGLE J ERSEY
J ACQUARD, WEFT-
KNITTED
fabrics A patterned single-
jersey weft-knitted
fabric, usually made
from two or more
yarns of differing
colour or texture to
give a construction
that consists
essentially of knitted
and float loops, but
may incorporate tuck
loops.
A patterned single-jersey
weft-knitted fabric,
usually made from two or
more yarns of differing
colour or texture to give
a construction that
consists essentially of
knitted and float loops,
but may incorporate tuck
loops. The surface
pattern is derived from
the chosen arrangement
of the yarns and of the
knitted and float loops.
The inclusion of tuck
loops into the
construction eliminates
long lengths of floating
threads from the back of
the fabric
SINGLE J ERSEY TUCK
J ACQUARD, WEFT-
fabrics A patterned single-
jersey weft knitted
A patterned single-jersey
weft knitted fabric usually
858
Word Category Short description Description
KNITTED fabric usually made
from two or more
yarns differing in
colour or texture in
construction that
consists of knitted
and tuck loops.
made from two or more
yarns differing in colour
or texture in construction
that consists of knitted
and tuck loops. The
surface pattern is derived
from a chosen
arrangement of the yarn
and of the knitted and
tuck loops.
SINGLE KNIT fabrics Same as Single
jersey
Same as Single jersey
SINGLE LIFT processes,
operations
In weaving, a term
applied to lever
dobbies and jacquard
mechanisms in which
a single knife or griffe
is used to effect a lift.
In weaving, a term
applied to lever dobbies
and jacquard
mechanisms in which a
single knife or griffe is
used to effect a lift. A
closed shed is produced.
SINGLE MARL,
WORSTED
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Worsted See under Worsted
SINGLE MOTTLE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Worsted. See under Worsted.
SINGLE PIQU, WEFT
KNITTTED
fabrics A non-jacquard
double jersey fabric
made on an interlock
basis using a
selection of knitted
and tuck loops.
A non-jacquard double
jersey fabric made on an
interlock basis using a
selection of knitted and
tuck loops. The fabric is
sometimes called cross
tuck.
SINGLE SAMPLING processes,
operations
In acceptance
sampling, a sampling
plan for which the
decision to accept or
reject a lot is based
on a single sample.
In acceptance sampling,
a sampling plan for
which the decision to
accept or reject a lot is
based on a single
sample.
SINGLE SATIN RIBBON accessories A ribbon woven from
continuous filament
yarns
A ribbon woven from
continuous filament
yarns, formerly in silk,
having a satin face on
one side only and a
contrasting edge
SINGLE THREAD CHAIN
STITCH
seams,
stitches
Stitch formed by a
single thread passed
through the fabric by
Stitch formed by a single
thread passed through
the fabric by the needle
859
Word Category Short description Description
the needle and
looped by the
previous stitch under
the fabric.
and looped by the
previous stitch under the
fabric. See also Chain
stitch.
SINGLE TWIST fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The amount of twist
in each individual
single yarn element
in a cord structure
The amount of twist in
each individual single
yarn element in a cord
structure based on the
length of the element
after twist has been
removed from the cord.
SINGLE YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A variety of yarn in
which the fibres are
twisted in only one
direction
A variety of yarn in which
the fibres are twisted in
only one direction and
forming the simplest
strand of fibres suitable
for weaving, knitting, etc.
See Singles.
SINGLE-BREASTED(S.B.) garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Style of coat with
minimum overlap
Style of coat with
minimum overlap
(usually left over right for
men and vice versa for
women) and a centre
front fastening
SINGLE-LEVEL PILE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
In floor coverings,
having all pile tufts at
the same level.
In floor coverings, having
all pile tufts at the same
level.
SINGLES fibers,
filaments,
yarns
One strand of yarn,
not plied. A mass of
fibres or number of
filaments bound
together into
coherent yarn.
One strand of yarn, not
plied. A mass of fibres or
number of filaments
bound together into
coherent yarn.
The simplest strand of
textile material suitable
for operations such as
weaving, knitting etc.
A term widely used in the
U.S. for single yarn,
especially cotton.
See also Doubles.
SINGLING defects Process defect Process defect. The
condition caused by the
breaking of one or more
strands in a plying
operation with resulting
unevenness in the
finished product.
A defect in a yarn
860
Word Category Short description Description
caused when one or
more strands are broken
in the plying process.
This shall cause
unevenness in the
finished cloth.
SINKAGE processes,
operations
Loss of mass in wool
cleansing, usually
expressed as a
percentage
1. Loss of mass in wool
cleansing, usually
expressed as a
percentage.
2. Unaccounted or
invisible loss of mass in
processing, usually
expressed as a
percentage
SINKER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In weaving, a link in a
pattern or boxchain
In weaving, a link in a
pattern or boxchain
which activates the
lowering of a harness
frame or the shuttle
boxes.
SINKERS apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In knitting,
mechanisms that
assist needles in
forming loops.
In knitting, mechanisms
that assist needles in
forming loops. All types
consist of shaped thin
metal plates situated
between, and alternating
with, needles.
Loop forming sinkers:
Mechanisms that assist
needles in forming loops
by directly pushing a
measured length of yarn
around needles.
Web holding sinkers:
Mechanisms that assist
needles in forming loops
by supporting the already
formed knitted fabric
during loop formation
and preventing the fabric
rising as the needles rise
during the knitting cycle.
SINNET ROPE accessories See Sennit rope. See Sennit rope.
SISAL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Coarse vegetable
fibres manufactured
from leaves.
Coarse vegetable fibres
manufactured from
leaves. They are a
cream colour and are
861
Word Category Short description Description
used for matting and
rope.
SIVAL MACHINE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See under Lace
machines.
See under Lace
machines.
SIX-BY-THREE RIB
FABRIC
fabrics See under Rib fabric,
weft-knitted.
See under Rib fabric,
weft-knitted.
SIZE A generic term for
gelatinous film-
forming substance, in
solution or dispersion
normally applied on
yarn or fabrics.
A generic term for
gelatinous film-forming
substance, in solution or
dispersion normally
applied on yarn or
fabrics. When size is
used on yarn or fabric, it
forms a more or less
continuous solid film
around the yarn and
individual fibres. In yarn
form sizing is done
chiefly on warp threads,
but sometimes on wefts
too. Siz-ing is applied:
to warp yarn to bind the
fibres together, and
stiffen and strengthen
the yarn,
to crpe yarn to set the
twist and assist crping,
to sewing thread to bind
the strands together and
leave a smooth,
lubricated, pliable yarn,
to fabrics to improve their
physical properties such
as weight and stiffness,
to airplane fabrics to
make them taut,
to balloon fabrics to
make them less
permeable to gases, and
to fabrics to produce a
glazed, lustrous effect.
SIZE PENETRATION processes,
operations
The degree to which
a size penetrates to
the core of a yarn.
The degree to which a
size penetrates to the
core of a yarn.
SIZE SHEDDING processes,
operations
The removal of size
particles from the
yarn during
The removal of size
particles from the yarn
during processing.
862
Word Category Short description Description
processing.
SIZING processes,
operations
Also called Dressing. Also called Dressing.
The operation of
applying a size
compound to yarn or
fabric. See also Size,
Slashing and Filler
SIZING SYSTEM garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Garment-related
term.
Garment-related term.
See under Garment
sizing system.
SKEIN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A continuous strand
of yarn in the form of
a flexible coil
1. A continuous strand of
yarn in the form of a
flexible coil having a
large circumference in
proportion to its
thickness.
2. See Hank.
SKEIN BREAK FACTOR fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The comparative
breaking load of a
skein of yarn
adjusted for the
linear density of the
yarn expressed in an
indirect system
The comparative
breaking load of a skein
of yarn adjusted for the
linear density of the yarn
expressed in an indirect
system; the product of
the breaking load of the
skein and the yarn
number expressed in an
indirect system
SKEIN DYEING processes,
operations
See Hank dyeing See Hank dyeing
SKETCH accessories See separation See separation
SKEWNESS defects Also called Bias, Bias
filling, Askewed.
Fabric defect
Also called Bias, Bias
filling, Askewed. Fabric
defect. A fabric condition
resulting when weft
yarns or knitted courses
are angularly displaced
from a line perpendicular
to the edge or side of the
fabric.
See also Bowing.
SKIN BACKS defects See Broken filaments See Broken filaments
SKIN WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Pulled wool. See Pulled wool.
SKIP defects See Float. See Float.
SKIP DENT fabrics,
defects
A dent in the reed
through which no
1. A dent in the reed
through which no warp
863
Word Category Short description Description
warp yarn is drawn yarn is drawn, in a
weaving design.
2. If the above is done by
mistake, it produces a
fabric defect.
SKIP DRAFT fabrics The passage of the
warp ends of a
repeat through
harnesses
The passage of the warp
ends of a repeat through
harnesses by skipping
some of them to obtain a
certain effect in the
fabric.
SKIPPING defects Fabric defect Fabric defect. Skipping
or skip marks are caused
by an irregular, uneven
height of the harnesses
in the shedding motion of
the loom. The result is
that the warp ends
affected will not weave in
regular formation with
the filling at all times.
Small float areas result
and these are usually
fixed during dry finishing
of the fabric.
SKIRT garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
That part of a coat,
dress or other
garment, that hang
below the waist.
1. That part of a coat,
dress or other garment,
that hang below the
waist. A garment worn by
women, sus-pended
from waist or hips.
2. See under Fringe.
SKITTERINESS defects An undesired
speckled effect
An undesired speckled
effect arising from
differences in colour
between adjacent fibres
or portions of the same
fibre.
SLACK COURSE processes,
operations
In weft knitting, a
course of knitting
made with loops
longer than normal
In weft knitting, a course
of knitting made with
loops longer than normal
for a special purpose,
e.g. linking, running-on,
etc.
SLACK END defects Also called Slack
thread, Slack warp.
Fabric defect.
Also called Slack thread,
Slack warp. Fabric
defect. A warp yarn
woven under insufficient
864
Word Category Short description Description
tension.
SLACK FILLING defects See Slack pick. See Slack pick.
SLACK MERCERIZATION processes,
operations
Mercerising of a
fabric in absence of
tension, or under
reduced tension.
Mercerising of a fabric in
absence of tension, or
under reduced tension.
After washing-off, the
fabric remains in the
shrunken condition, and
consequently a high
degree of yarn crimp is
obtained and the fabric
becomes more
extensible. There are two
reasons for operating
this process: to produce
a stretch fabric; or as
part of the process for
crease resisting linen.
Dye absorption is
increased but lustre is
not. See also Merceris-
ing.
SLACK PICK defects Also called Loose
pick, Slack filling.
Fabric defect.
Also called Loose pick,
Slack filling. Fabric
defect. A single weft yarn
under insufficient
tension, which shows
loops throughout the
yarn.
SLACK SELVEDGE defects Also called Baggy
selvedge, Loose
edge, Stringy
selvedge, Wavy
selvedge. Fabric
defect.
Also called Baggy
selvedge, Loose edge,
Stringy selvedge, Wavy
selvedge. Fabric defect.
Slack ends in the fabric
edge. Caused by too
much of a spread, or
cramming of selvedge
ends in the reed, thereby
creating slackness in the
selvedge areas. Other
causes include too loose
a weave construction,
use of improper yarns as
the count, twist or ply;
and the edge threads
wound too hard or too
high as to number on the
warp beam.
865
Word Category Short description Description
SLACK THREAD defects See Slack end. See Slack end.
SLACK WARP defects See Slack end. See Slack end.
SLACKS garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Trousers normally
used for leisurewear
for men or women
Trousers normally used
for leisurewear for men
or women
SLAG WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A fibrous slag
produced by pouring
molten slag,
generally made from
iron, into a vessel
fitted with a steam
injector, which blows
the slag into the
fibres.
A fibrous slag produced
by pouring molten slag,
generally made from
iron, into a vessel fitted
with a steam injector,
which blows the slag into
the fibres. These fibres
are used as felt for
packing purposes and
sometimes for insulation.
Sometimes called
Silicate cotton.
SLAM-OFF defects Fabric defect, in
woven fabrics.
Fabric defect, in woven
fabrics. A distortion due
to the entrapment of the
weft carrier in the shed.
(Compare Smash.)
SLASHING processes,
operations
IN WEAVING. The
application of size
solution to yarns by
immersion into the
solution and
squeezing
1. IN WEAVING. The
application of size
solution to yarns by
immersion into the
solution and squeezing
which is followed by
drying to make the warp
yarn more suitable for
weaving.
2. IN PRINTING. The
controlled distortion
necessary to print
horizontal stripes by
engraved roller. The
roller is engraved with
the stripes set at an
angle of 22 to 30
from the horizontal and
printed on to cloth sten-
tered off-grain at the
same angle. The same
effect can be produced
photographically on a
Pull-in machine
SLAY fabrics,
apparatus,
See sley See sley
866
Word Category Short description Description
equipage,
tools
SLEAZY FABRIC fabrics A thin, loosely woven
cheap fabric with
limp texture
A thin, loosely woven
cheap fabric with limp
texture. Does not retain
shape. Now it has come
to describe any fabric
which is unsatisfactory in
construction.
SLEEPERS defects Ends that have been
broken in warping
and beaming
operations and then
have been tangled
and obscured by
other ends.
Ends that have been
broken in warping and
beaming operations and
then have been tangled
and obscured by other
ends. A mill term for
sleepers is Lost ends.
SLEEVE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
That part of a
garment, which
covers all, or part of
the arm
That part of a garment,
which covers all, or part
of the arm
SLEEVE CROWN garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The top section of
the sleeve head
The top section of the
sleeve head, which
extends approximately 6
cm on either side of the
shoulder seam.
SLEEVE HEAD garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The part of the top
sleeve which is
joined to the scye.
The part of the top
sleeve which is joined to
the scye.
SLEEVING fabrics Braided, knitted, or
woven fabric of
cylindrical form
having a width less
than 4 in. (100 mm)
(circumference less
than 8 in. (200 mm))
Braided, knitted, or
woven fabric of
cylindrical form having a
width less than 4 in. (100
mm) (circumference less
than 8 in. (200 mm)).
See also Tubing.
SLEY fabrics,
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Also called Slay. Also called Slay.
1. IN WEAVING. The
number of warp ends per
inch of fabric width,
exclusive of selvedge.
2. IN LOOM. That
oscillating part of a loom,
positioned between the
healds and the fell of the
cloth, which carries the
reed.
SLEYING PLAN fabrics See Reeding plan. See Reeding plan.
867
Word Category Short description Description
SLICKER-FABRIC fabrics A common name for
textile fabrics which
have been
waterproofed by
coating the fabric
with a waterproof film
A common name for
textile fabrics which have
been waterproofed by
coating the fabric with a
waterproof film. Plain
weave rayon, silk, or
cotton are the usual
fabrics and a vast
number of chemical
substances are
applicable.
SLIDE FASTENER accessories See Zipper. See Zipper.
SLIDE WASTE defects A yarn defect
identified by its slub-
like appearance.
A yarn defect identified
by its slub-like
appearance. A mass of
entangled fibre encircles
a yarn and can be slid
easily along the end.
SLIDER accessories In zippers, the part
that opens a zipper
In zippers, the part that
opens a zipper when it is
moved in one direction
and closes the zipper
when it is moved in the
opposite direction.
SLIP RESISTANT fabrics Fabric not prone to
weft slippage.
Fabric not prone to weft
slippage. This is often
achieved by chemical
finishing treatments that
also give firmness to the
fabric
SLIPCOVER garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A removable, fitted
protective textile
cover, often
decorative and
specifically made for
upholstered furniture.
A removable, fitted
protective textile cover,
often decorative and
specifically made for
upholstered furniture.
See Furniture covering.
SLIPE WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Pulled wool. See Pulled wool.
SLIPPAGE fabrics The tendency of
fibres, filaments,
yarn, or cloth to slip
or slide when
manipulated.
The tendency of fibres,
filaments, yarn, or cloth
to slip or slide when
manipulated. In loosely
woven fabrics the yarns
may tend to separate,
leaving open spaces.
Also slippage may cause
868
Word Category Short description Description
trouble during cutting
operations. Chemical
treatments may be
applied to retard
slippage. Also called
Shifting
SLIPPER SATIN fabrics Also called J ockey
satin.
Also called J ockey satin.
Heavy, closely woven,
hardwearing, high quality
satin made from
continuous filament silk
or man-made filament
yarns. Used for wedding
gowns, evening dresses,
evening shoes, and
jockeys blouses. It is less
glossy than other satins
due to the closeness of
the weave, and because
of this a more elegant
fabric. See Satin
SLIPS fabrics A low grade cotton
velvet fabric in which
alternate floats are
cut
A low grade cotton velvet
fabric in which alternate
floats are cut; in better
velvets every float is cut,
except in figured velvet.
SLIT FILM fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Yarn, produced by
slitting extruded film.
Yarn, produced by
slitting extruded film.
SLIVER fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A continuous strand
of loosely assembled
fibres that is
approximately
uniform in cross-
sectional area and
without twist.
A continuous strand of
loosely assembled fibres
that is approximately
uniform in cross-
sectional area and
without twist. An
indefinitely long
assembly of staple
fibres, substantially
parallel and without twist,
and capable of being
drafted.
SLIVER-KNITTED
FABRIC
fabrics A single-jersey fabric
in which untwisted
staple fibres are
knitted in at each
loop to form a pile
surface on the
technical back of the
A single-jersey fabric in
which untwisted staple
fibres are knitted in at
each loop to form a pile
surface on the technical
back of the jersey
structure.
869
Word Category Short description Description
jersey structure.
SLOT SEAM seams,
stitches
A complex seam
formed on the inside
of the object, having
a decorative seam
underlay slightly
visible from the face
side, held in place by
two visible rows of
stitching.
A complex seam formed
on the inside of the
object, having a
decorative seam
underlay slightly visible
from the face side, held
in place by two visible
rows of stitching. A slot
seam is made by (1)
machine basting the face
sides of the fabric
together 15 mm from the
raw edges, (2) pressing
open the seam, (3)
clipping and basting
stitches every four to five
stitches to facilitate later
removal of thread, (4)
centering the underlay
(which is approximately
38 mm wide) under the
open seam allowance,
(5) topstitching two lines
an equal distance
(approximately 6 mm)
from the seamline on
each side, and (6)
removing the basting
threads. The two
topstitching rows are
visible from the face side
SLOUGH-OFF defects WINDING DEFECT.
Partial disintegration
of a yarn package by
the separation of one
constituent layer of
yarn from another.
1. WINDING DEFECT.
Partial disintegration of a
yarn package by the
separation of one
constituent layer of yarn
from another. The
slippage of a number of
yarn coils during
unwinding which usually
causes a tangle.
2. FABRIC DEFECT. In
woven fabrics. Caused
by several coils of yarn
slipping the weft bobbin
simultane-ously and
being woven into the
fabric in a group.
870
Word Category Short description Description
SLUB defects IN YARN. Also called
Bunch, Lump,
Piecing, Slug.
1. IN YARN. Also called
Bunch, Lump, Piecing,
Slug. An abruptly
thickened place, in a
yarn, caused by soft,
thick and uneven place.
Little balls of yarn at
irregular intervals along a
length of yarn, causing
the fabric to have a
surface interest and
broken texture. See also
Slub silk. (Compare
Cockles.)
1. IN KNIT FABRICS.
Fabric defect, usually
caused due to thick or
heavy place in yarn or
lint getting onto yarn
feeds.
2. IN WOVEN FABRIC.
Fabric defect, usually
caused by an extra piece
of yarn that is woven into
the fabric. It can also be
caused by thick places in
the yarn often caused by
fly waste being spun in
yarn in the spinning
process.
See also Slub yarns.
SLUB SILK fabrics Fabric made from silk
yarns having nubs or
balls of fibre at
intervals.
Fabric made from silk
yarns having nubs or
balls of fibre at intervals.
The fabric has an
interesting surface
texture and is usually
dress-weight and often
crisp.
SLUB YARNS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A type of fancy yarn A type of fancy yarn. A
yarn in which slubs are
deliberately created to
produce a desired effect.
Slub yarns are
deliberately
manufactured in fibres
such as polyester,
acetate, viscose.
Generally, slubbed yarns
871
Word Category Short description Description
are made by two
methods; spun slubs and
plucked or inserted
slubs.
SLUBBY FILLING defects Fabric defect. Thick,
uneven places in
filling yarn caused by
uneven yarn winding,
poor carding,
combing and/or
spinning of the fibres
in the manufacture of
the yarn.
Fabric defect. Thick,
uneven places in filling
yarn caused by uneven
yarn winding, poor
carding, combing and/or
spinning of the fibres in
the manufacture of the
yarn. Soft, slubby yarn
results from some
irregualrity in one of the
manipulating machines
or frames.
SLUBBY WARP defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. This is
when some warp yarns
become uneven because
of short fibres or certain
wastes working out of
place usually as a result
of improved settings for
the number of twists per
unit length in the yarns.
Often referred to as soft
slub or tight slub yarn
SLUFF-OFFS defects See Slough-off See Slough-off
SLUG defects YARN DEFECT. An
abruptly thickened
place in a yarn,
caused by inclusion
of fly or clearer waste
along with regular
fibres.
1. YARN DEFECT. An
abruptly thickened place
in a yarn, caused by
inclusion of fly or clearer
waste along with regular
fibres. Same as Bunch,
Lump, Piecing, Slub.
2. FABRIC DEFECT, IN
RAW SILK. A thickened
place several times the
diameter of the yarn, 3
mm or over in length.
3. FABRIC DEFECT, IN
GLASS. Unattentuated
particles of glass of
substantially larger
diameter than the aver-
age filament diameter.
Same as Lump, Piecing,
Slub.
872
Word Category Short description Description
SMASH defects Also called Break
out. Fabric defect,
major, in woven
fabrics.
Also called Break out.
Fabric defect, major, in
woven fabrics. It is
caused by a number of
ruptured warp ends that
have been repaired.
Accidental breakage of a
large number of warp
ends due to the
entrapment of the shuttle
or a place in the fabric
where a large number of
ends have been broken.
A relatively large hole in
the cloth characterised
by many broken warp
ends and floating picks.
Compare Slam off.
SMOCKING seams,
stitches
Firm, ornamental and
functional rows of
stitching to hold
fullness in place.
Firm, ornamental and
functional rows of
stitching to hold fullness
in place. Used mainly for
smocks, dresses and
aprons.
SMOOTH-DRYING garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See Easy-care. See Easy-care.
SMOOTHNESS
APPEARANCE
fabrics In fabrics, the visual
impression of
planarity of a
specimen quantified
In fabrics, the visual
impression of planarity of
a specimen quantified by
comparison with a set of
reference standards
SMOULDERING general The combustion of a
solid material without
accompaniment of
flame but generally
with the production of
smoke.
The combustion of a
solid material without
accompaniment of flame
but generally with the
production of smoke.
See also Glow and
Afterglow
SNAG defects,
fabrics
A yarn or part of a
yarn pulled or
plucked from the
surface.
1. A yarn or part of a
yarn pulled or plucked
from the surface. See
also Pin hole.
2. In knitting. A pulled
thread course-wise in
weft knitting or wale-wise
in warp knitting. In weft
knitting a small snag is
873
Word Category Short description Description
called a fish eye
SNAGGING RESISTANCE fabrics In textile fabrics, the
resistance to the
formation of snags.
In textile fabrics, the
resistance to the
formation of snags.
SNAP ACTION accessories The force required to
disengage a snap
fastener
The force required to
disengage a snap
fastener resulting from a
pull exerted
perpendicular to the
plane of material to
which the snap fastener
is attached.
SNAP FASTENER accessories A device for
attaching one
material to another
A device for attaching
one material to another
consisting of matching
male and female parts,
each of which is attached
to a separate material so
that the parts can be
joined by a low
compressive force and
separated by a low
perpendicular tensile
force
SNAP FASTNERS accessories Used as garment
closures.
Used as garment
closures. They provide a
more secure closure,
when compared to hook-
and-eye type. There are
two basic types of snaps,
sew-on snaps and
gripper-type snaps.
Sew-on types are made
in two halves; the
projecting ball half and
the flatter socket half.
Sew-on snaps are meant
to be concealed between
the garment layers for an
invisible closure. The
projecting ball half of the
snap is sewn on the
wrong side of the
overlapping fabric layers.
The flatter socket half
goes on the right side of
the underlap.
Gripper-type snaps are
874
Word Category Short description Description
made in four pieces.
They are affixed to the
garment by pressure with
a special tool, as they
cannot be sewn on.
Gripper snaps, some of
which come with
decorative caps, are
attached to the to the
right side of both overlap
and underlap. They are
most often used on
childrens garments,
jeans, denim jackets,
and casual clothing.
SNARE defects Fabric defect. Fabric
shows tangled
masses or clumps of
roving or yarn in a
cloth
Fabric defect. Fabric
shows tangled masses
or clumps of roving or
yarn in a cloth; can be
removed in burling and
specking operations.
SNARL defects Yarn defect. Yarn defect. A part of the
yarn where it folds and
twists around itself.
Same as Kink-in.
SNARL YARNS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A type of fancy yarn. A type of fancy yarn. A
compound yarn that
displays snarls or kinks
projecting from the core.
It is made by a similar
method as a loop yarn,
but, instead of a resilient
thread, a lively highly
twisted yarn is used.
Thus, snarls are formed
in place of loops when
the tension is released at
the front rollers. The
snarls may be controlled
to vary in size and
frequency, either
continuously or in groups
at places along the yarn.
SNARLY YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Lively
yarn.
Also called Lively yarn.
Yarn that shows an
excessive tendency to
twist round itself if held
with insufficient tension.
875
Word Category Short description Description
SNOW BALL defects See Fuzz ball. See Fuzz ball.
SNOW CLOTH fabrics Term is used to
describe any heavy
outdoor cloth
Term is used to describe
any heavy outdoor cloth,
particularly those with
nap or pile.
SOAPING processes,
operations
Treating fabric with a
soap solution
Treating fabric with a
soap solution. Dyed and
printed fabrics are
soaped thoroughly in hot
solution to remove
excess unfixed colour
present.
SOFT FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Bast fibre. See Bast fibre.
SOFT FILLED fabrics A fabric made with a
low twist weft yarn.
A fabric made with a low
twist weft yarn. The
thicker, softer twisted
weft yarn makes the
fabric suitable for
napping.
SOFT GOODS general A broad term for
textiles and textile
products
A broad term for textiles
and textile products
SOFT LAID ROPE accessories See under Rope. See under Rope.
SOFT TWIST fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A comparative term
for yarn, especially
spun types having a
relatively low number
of turns of twist per
inch.
A comparative term for
yarn, especially spun
types having a relatively
low number of turns of
twist per inch. Warp,
voile and crpe yarns
have a high number of
turns of twist, and weft
yarns and knitting yarns
(espe-cially spun types)
a low number of turns.
The yarns in the latter
class are often described
as soft twist.
SOFT WARP defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Usually a
warp that has not been
sized correctly, causing
chafing and weakening
of the ends as they go
through the successive
operations from yarn to
fabric.
876
Word Category Short description Description
SOFT WASTE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Waste from slubbing,
roving, and wool
tops.
Waste from slubbing,
roving, and wool tops.
SOFT WATER general Water, which is free
from, dissolved
mineral salts
Water, which is free
from, dissolved mineral
salts. Water can be
treated chemically to
soften it.
SOFT WINDOW
COVERINGS
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Curtains, draperies,
or other accessories
on wall or window
openings
Curtains, draperies, or
other accessories on wall
or window openings that
are either lined or
unlined and primarily
constructed of textile
fabrics.
SOIL fabrics Dirt, oil or other
substances, not
normally intended to
be present on a
substrate such as
textile material.
Dirt, oil or other
substances, not normally
intended to be present
on a substrate such as
textile material.
SOIL AFFINITY fabrics The reduction in
reflectance between
new and soiled
fabrics.
The reduction in
reflectance between new
and soiled fabrics. See
also Cleanness.
SOIL REDEPOSITION processes,
operations
The soiling of clean
or relatively clean
fabric during the
laundering process
by soil which has
been removed from
another fabric
The soiling of clean or
relatively clean fabric
during the laundering
process by soil which
has been removed from
another fabric
SOIL RELEASE processes,
operations
The degree to which
a soiled substrate
approaches its
original, unsoiled
appearance as a
result of a care
procedure.
The degree to which a
soiled substrate
approaches its original,
unsoiled appearance as
a result of a care
procedure.
SOILED ENDS defects Also called Dirty
ends.
Also called Dirty ends.
Fabric defect, major.
Self-descriptive. Dirty,
oily looking spots on the
warp yarns, or on
packaged dyed yarn.
SOILED FILLING defects Fabric defect, major.
Self-descriptive.
Fabric defect, major.
Self-descriptive. Dirty,
877
Word Category Short description Description
oily looking spots on the
weft yarns, on packaged
dyed yarn
SOILING processes,
operations
In textiles, a process
by which a textile
substrate becomes
more or less
uniformly covered
with/or impregnated
with soil.
In textiles, a process by
which a textile substrate
becomes more or less
uniformly covered with/or
impregnated with soil.
SOISETTE fabrics Name given to a fine
cotton fabric made
from mercerised
yarns.
Name given to a fine
cotton fabric made from
mercerised yarns. Use
confined mainly to good
quality nightwear and
negliges, due to its
softness
SOLAR SCREENING fabrics A woven fabric made
of coated fibreglass
yarn
A woven fabric made of
coated fibreglass yarn. It
imparts a shielding or
protection from light,
heat, wind, and insects
without excessive
alteration or impairment
of visual viewing, and
that has a mesh in
excess of 12 by 12 with a
rib pattern in the warp
direction formed by the
weaving of two or more
contiguous yarns with a
minimum of space
between such yarns
followed by space
equivalent to the width of
one or more of the yarns
in the rib
SOLEIL fabrics Name for a very
highly finished wool
fabric woven in twill
broken-rib effect.
Name for a very highly
finished wool fabric
woven in twill broken-rib
effect. The weave and
finish give the fabric a
shiny appearance. The
term is also used to
describe any shiny, light-
reflecting fabrics in any
fibres.
SOLID BRAID accessories In rope, a braided In rope, a braided
878
Word Category Short description Description
construction construction in which
each strand alternately
passes under and over
one or more of the other
strands while all strands
are rotating around the
axis with the same
direction of rotation.
SOLID COLOUR fabrics A fabric or yarn
entirely of one colour
tone.
A fabric or yarn entirely
of one colour tone.
SOLID COLOUR,
WORSTED
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Worsted. See under Worsted.
SOLID WOVEN BELTING garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See under Belting See under Belting
SOLUTION-DYEING processes,
operations
See Mass-coloration. See Mass-coloration.
SOLVENT METHOD fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under
Manufacture of man-
made fibres.
See under Manufacture
of man-made fibres.
SOLVENT-SOLUBLE
SOIL
general The most commonly
found impurity in a
dry cleaning solvent,
e.g. oils and greases.
The most commonly
found impurity in a dry
cleaning solvent, e.g. oils
and greases.
SORPTION processes,
operations
The process of taking
up or holding a
material by
adsorption,
absorption, or both.
The process of taking up
or holding a material by
adsorption, absorption,
or both.
SORTING processes,
operations
Process of
separating material
into different groups
of comparable
character and quality,
determined by some
standards
Process of separating
material into different
groups of comparable
character and quality,
determined by some
standards; same as
classing, grading.
SOUFFL fabrics A French term used
for some fabrics with
raised or puffed
designs, e.g.,
matelasse.
A French term used for
some fabrics with raised
or puffed designs, e.g.,
matelasse.
SOURING processes,
operations
An acid treatment
used in bleaching
and laundering
An acid treatment used
in bleaching and
laundering to neutralise
excess amount of alkali
879
Word Category Short description Description
that might be present.
SOUTACHE accessories A narrow braid used
as ornamentation on
garments
A narrow braid used as
ornamentation on
garments
SOYBEAN FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A protein-base, man-
made fibre derived
from the soybean;
resembles wool.
A protein-base, man-
made fibre derived from
the soybean; resembles
wool. Did not achieve
commercial success due
to its lack of tensile
strength, and other
weaknesses
SPACE DYED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Yarn dyed in single
colour or multicolour
spaces
Yarn dyed in single
colour or multicolour
spaces along a given
lineal length of yarn in
either repeat type or
random type patterns.
SPAN LENGTH fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Fibre
length.
See under Fibre length.
SPANDEX fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured fibre
in which the fibre-
forming substance is
a long chain
synthetic polymer
comprised of at least
85% of a segmented
polyurethane.
A manufactured fibre in
which the fibre-forming
substance is a long chain
synthetic polymer
comprised of at least
85% of a segmented
polyurethane.
These synthetic fibres,
apart from their very high
elastic recovery
compared to any
synthetic elastomeric
filament, have higher
tensile strength, higher
modulus, and better
resistance to oils, fats,
perspiration and other
organic materials. See
also Elastic Fibre.
Spandex may be used
by itself (i.e. not covered
with other yarns or
fibres), covered with one
or more yarns of other
fibres (i.e. yarns twisted
round spandex), or
covered with a sheath of
880
Word Category Short description Description
other fibres (i.e. core-
spun yarns).
SPANISH LACE fabrics all lace made in
Spain.
The most common
Spanish lace is made of
silk in flat designs,
usually floral, and held
together with a mesh, but
the term Spanish Lace
also refers to all lace
made in Spain.
SPANISH STITCH seams,
stitches
A type of embroidery
composed of cross-
stitches in rows on
the right side of the
cloth and squares on
the wrong side.
A type of embroidery
composed of cross-
stitches in rows on the
right side of the cloth and
squares on the wrong
side. The cross on the
face of the goods may
also be enclosed in a
square.
SPARTERIE fabrics Stiff fabric, used in
making hat bases as
it can easily be
shaped.
Stiff fabric, used in
making hat bases as it
can easily be shaped.
SPECIAL FINISHES fabrics A general term for
fabric finishes
imparting special
properties such as
water repellency,
crease, stain and
flame resistance.
A general term for fabric
finishes imparting special
properties such as water
repellency, crease, stain
and flame resistance.
See also Functional
finishes under Finish.
SPECIAL TRISTIMULUS
VALUES
See under Colour
measurement.
See under Colour
measurement.
SPECIALITY YARNS fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Special effects may
be produced by using
metallic or tinsel
yarns, which give a
sheen or degree of
ornamentation to the
fabric.
Special effects may be
produced by using
metallic or tinsel yarns,
which give a sheen or
degree of ornamentation
to the fabric. Metallic
threads may be made
from gold, silver, copper,
etc., and often consist of
metal foil sandwiched
between plastic film.
Most fancy or novelty
yarns are produced by
twisting together two or
more yarns. The two
yarns may be deliv-ered
881
Word Category Short description Description
continuously to the
twisting-spindle, with one
of them being delivered
at a greater speed than
the other. The yarn that
is over-fed will obviously
be in excess and will
therefore wrap around
the other yarn. A similar
yarn is produced by
combining two slubbings
or rovings of different
colour or lustre.
It is also possible to
deliver one of the
components
intermittently and thus
cause an accumulation
of one yarn around
another at certain
positions along the
length of the final
product. These yarns will
therefore have irregu-lar
knops or nodes along
their length. These knops
can be spaced at regular
or random intervals, and
their size can be
controlled. Tufts of fibres
may be inserted at
intervals between two
yarns that are being
twisted together. These
slubs are usually
produced by
intermittently feeding
rovings to the twisting
spindle.
A snarl yarn is formed by
feeding a highly twisted
yarn at an excess rate
onto the core yarn. The
twist causes the slack
yarn to form snarls that
stand out from the fancy
yarn.
Numerous variations of
these technique are
882
Word Category Short description Description
possible, including the
use of yarns of
contrasting colours
wound around one
another in such a way
that different colours
dominate at intervals.
See Bicomponent Yarns,
Fila-ment Blend yarns,
Multilobal Filaments,
Epitropic Fibres, Heterofil
Fibres.
SPECIFIC AREA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
In wool, the ratio of
the fibre surface to
fibre volume.
In wool, the ratio of the
fibre surface to fibre
volume.
SPECIFIC CLO general The specific thermal
resistance to clo
units per unit
thickness
The specific thermal
resistance to clo units
per unit thickness. See
also Clo.
SPECIFIC FELT fabrics One of a number of
special purpose felt
structures
One of a number of
special purpose felt
structures available for,
but not limited to, a
specific end-use
application.
SPECIFIC GRAVITY general The ratio of the mass
of a material to the
mass of an equal
volume of water at 4
C
The ratio of the mass of
a material to the mass of
an equal volume of water
at 4 C. See also
Density.
SPECIFIC STRESS general The ratio of force to
the linear density
The ratio of force to the
linear density expressed
in N/tex or submultiple
thereof (conventionally
mN/tex).
SPECIFICATION general A precise statement
of a set of
requirements to be
satisfied by a
material, product,
system, or service
A precise statement of a
set of requirements to be
satisfied by a material,
product, system, or
service that indicates the
procedures for
determining whether
each of the requirements
is satisfied.
SPECIMEN general A specific portion of a
material.
A specific portion of a
material.
SPECKINESS general In textile printing, the In textile printing, the
883
Word Category Short description Description
quality or state of
containing specks.
quality or state of
containing specks. If
intended it can be a
required effect. If
occurred unintended it is
a defect.
SPECKS defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect.
1. A small particle, such
as an agglomerate in a
liquid dispersion, or a
very small spot of dark
colour on a dyed
substrate.
2. Small pieces of
undyed vegetable
matter, which can be
removed by carbonising
or can be covered by
dyeing or inking.
(Compare Trash.)
SPECKY FABRIC defects Fabric defect. Dyed
fabric which shows
small specks of
undyed vegetable
matter on the face.
Fabric defect. Dyed
fabric which shows small
specks of undyed
vegetable matter on the
face. The specks may be
removed by carbonising
or be covered up by
speck dyeing. Same as
Specky cloth.
SPECTROPHOTOMETER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
An instrument for
measuring shade
and intensity of
colour.
An instrument for
measuring shade and
intensity of colour.
SPECTROPHOTOMETRY processes,
operations
A method of
measuring reflection
factors of a colour, by
comparing various
wavelengths and the
intensity to a
standard.
A method of measuring
reflection factors of a
colour, by comparing
various wavelengths and
the intensity to a
standard. The
measurements can be
plotted on a chart. The
chart is ruled, one
direction for wavelengths
(the spectrum) and the
other direction for
reflection (the intensity).
SPECULAR GLOSS general Same as Gloss. Same as Gloss. The
relative luminous
884
Word Category Short description Description
fractional reflectance of a
specimen in the specular
direction.
SPIDER SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Silk filaments spun
by spiders.
Silk filaments spun by
spiders. Filaments are
similar in appearance to
ordinary silk; they are an
orange-yellow in colour.
Spider silk has generally
proved impractical for
textile use, but is
employed in the optical
and instrument industry.
They are fine, strong and
uniform and are
particularly useful due to
their ability to withstand
oxidation and changes in
temperature and
humidity. One of the best
types is obtained from
the golden garden spider
Miranda aurentia
SPIDER STITCH seams,
stitches
A stitch in lace or
netting in which the
threads are arranged
to resemble a spider
web.
A stitch in lace or netting
in which the threads are
arranged to resemble a
spider web.
SPIDER WEAVE fabrics A class of weave that
produces a net-like
or distorted thread
effect on the face of
fabric
A class of weave that
produces a net-like or
distorted thread effect on
the face of fabric by
floating and deflecting
either the ends or picks.
SPIKING processes,
operations
The use of spikes
fixed to one edge of
a hinged table to
facilitate the even
laying-up of fine
fabrics.
The use of spikes fixed
to one edge of a hinged
table to facilitate the
even laying-up of fine
fabrics. The tabletop is
tilted vertically for
hanging the fabric and
back to the horizontal for
cutting.
SPIN DRY processes,
operations
A process in
laundering whereby
water is extracted by
centrifugal force from
the laundered items.
A process in laundering
whereby water is
extracted by centrifugal
force from the laundered
items. In this state the
885
Word Category Short description Description
articles may be termed
damp dry. Tumble or
line drying follows.
SPIN-DRAWING processes,
operations
A process for
spinning partially or
highly oriented
filaments
A process for spinning
partially or highly
oriented filaments in
which most of the
orientation is introduced
between the first
forwarding device and
the take-up, i.e. spinning
and drawing are
integrated sequential
stages. See also Draw-
spinning
SPIN-STRETCH RATIO processes,
operations
Also called Draw-
down.
Also called Draw-down.
In man-made filament
extrusion, the ratio of
take-up or haul-off speed
to the average speed of
the spinning fluid at the
exit from the hole of
spinneret.
SPINDLE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In the spinning
frame, the slender
rod held in a vertical
position for twisting
and holding the spun
yarn dur-ing spinning
1. In the spinning frame,
the slender rod held in a
vertical position for
twisting and holding the
spun yarn dur-ing
spinning.
2. A unit on a winding
machine.
3. A post for mounting
packages.
4. A part of a J acquard
loom.
SPINNERET apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A nozzle with holes
or slits in it,
A nozzle with holes or
slits in it, through which
the fibre-forming
substance is extruded in
the manufacture of man-
made fibres.
SPINNERS DOUBLE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Married
yarn and Double
ends
Also called Married yarn
and Double ends. Two
ends inadvertently
running onto one spindle
during spinning
operations. This is
usually caused by the
886
Word Category Short description Description
breakage of one end
followed by its
subsequent
entanglement with an
adjacent end after which
the two continue to run in
married form.
SPINNERS WASTE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Broken and tangled
threads and lengths
of yarn left on
bobbins and spinning
machinery
Broken and tangled
threads and lengths of
yarn left on bobbins and
spinning machinery in
the manufacture of yarn.
SPINNING processes,
operations
The word Spinning
is used to cover four
distinctly different
processes
The word Spinning is
used to cover four
distinctly different
processes which should
not be confused.
1. General: The process
or processes used in the
production of single
yarns.
2. Yarn from staple fibre:
The formation of yarn
from sliver or roving by
drafting and twisting.
3. Filament yarn or tow:
The formation of
filaments by extrusion of
fibre-forming substance,
either in molten form, in
solution, or in a form
suitable for regeneration.
4. Yarn from filament
tow: The formation of
yarn from tow by cutting
or breaking, drafting and
twisting in a single
operation. Often called
Direct spinning.
See also Cap spinning,
Continuous Yarn felting,
Double roving spinning,
Flyer spinning, Friction
spinning, Hollow-spindle
spinning, J et spinning,
Mule spinning, Open-end
spinning, Ring spinning,
Rotor spinning, Self-twist
spinning, Twistless
887
Word Category Short description Description
spinning, Wrap spinning,
and Yarn manufacture by
spinning.
SPINNING LIMIT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The finest yarn
number that can be
spun satisfactorily
The finest yarn number
that can be spun
satisfactorily from a
specified lot of fibre
under specified
conditions.
SPINNING MILL general A factory producing
yarn.
A factory producing yarn.
SPINNING
PREPARATORY STAGES
processes,
operations
See under Yarn
manufacture by
spinning.
See under Yarn
manufacture by spinning.
SPINNING QUALITY fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The ease with which
fibres lend
themselves to yarn-
manufacturing
processes.
The ease with which
fibres lend themselves to
yarn-manufacturing
processes. See also
Fibre cohesion.
SPINNING SOLUTION fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Chemical solution
prepared for
extrusion through a
spinneret
Chemical solution
prepared for extrusion
through a spinneret to
produce synthetic
filaments.
SPINNING, DIRECT processes,
operations
See Direct spinning See Direct spinning
SPIRAL YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Eccentric
yarn.
Also called Eccentric
yarn. Novelty yarn with a
pronounced spiral effect
obtained by twisting
together two yarns of
different counts and/or
twist, tension, direction of
twist or a single and a
doubled yarn.
The fine yarn is usually
given a hard twist and
the heavy yarn a slack
twist; in spinning, the
heavier yarn is wound
spirally around the fine
yarn. Different coloured
yarns may be used for
considerably varied
effects.
SPIRALITY defects Fabric defect in
knitted fabric.
Fabric defect in knitted
fabric. A distortion of a
888
Word Category Short description Description
knitted fabric whereby
the wales and courses
align at an angle other
than 90. This condition
is usually caused by
residual torque in the
component yarns.
SPLASH YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
An elongated nub
that has been tightly
twisted around a
base yarn
An elongated nub that
has been tightly twisted
around a base yarn
SPLICE processes,
operations
See Corkscrew yarn. See Corkscrew yarn.
SPLICING processes,
operations
J oining together the
ends of two yarns
without tying
J oining together the ends
of two yarns without
tying; may be done by
hand, or machine.
SPLIT apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Dent. See Dent.
SPLIT END defects See Dent. See Dent.
SPLIT ENDS defects See Broken
filaments.
See Broken filaments.
SPLIT FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Fibrillating
film.
See under Fibrillating
film.
SPLIT FILAMENTS defects See Broken
filaments.
See Broken filaments.
SPLIT STITCH defects See Broken
filaments.
See Broken filaments.
SPLIT STITCHES defects Fabric defect in
knitted fabric.
Fabric defect in knitted
fabric. A stitch in which
one part of the yarn is
knit and the other part is
dropped.
SPLIT YARN defects A yarn which
appears in the fabric
as a thin yarn.
A yarn which appears in
the fabric as a thin yarn.
This defect is often
caused by abrasion or
excessive tension during
winding or weaving
which breaks a part of
the yarn (e.g. a filament
of a continuous filament
yarn or a ply of a two-fold
yarn) that is
subsequently held back
889
Word Category Short description Description
during weaving.
SPLITFUL fabrics The number of ends
in a reed.
The number of ends in a
reed.
SPLITTING RESISTANCE fabrics Of felt. The force
required to overcome
the interfacial
strength of a material
Of felt. The force
required to overcome the
interfacial strength of a
material and specifically
to separate a felt into two
layers (of approximately
equal thickness).
SPOKESTITCHING seams,
stitches
A decoration
achieved by drawing
out parallel threads
at the inner edge of a
hem
A decoration achieved by
drawing out parallel
threads at the inner edge
of a hem and stitching
along both sides of the
ladder of parallel
threads, rather than
along the outer edge, as
in hemstitching.
SPONGE WEAVE fabrics Any one of a variety
of weave
arrangements that
groups ends and
picks together in
order to form a
cellular structure
Any one of a variety of
weave arrangements
that groups ends and
picks together in order to
form a cellular structure
and to create a soft
spongy effect in the
fabric, e.g. spot weaves,
diamond effects,
honeycombs and sateen-
based structures with lifts
added, as illustrated
below
SPONGING processes,
operations
A steam treatment
given to woollens
and worsteds for a
final shrinkage
control
A steam treatment given
to woollens and worsteds
for a final shrinkage
control and to improve
handle and finish.
SPONTANEOUS CURING processes,
operations
See Progressive
curing.
See Progressive curing.
SPOOL apparatus,
equipage,
tools
IN SEWING
MACHINE. A small
tube, with or without
flanges
1. IN SEWING
MACHINE. A small tube,
with or without flanges,
on to which is wound the
under-thread of a lock-
stitch machine. The
spool is held in the spool
case underneath the
890
Word Category Short description Description
throat plate.
2. IN THREAD. A
cardboard or plastic tube
as a base on which to
wind thread. Also called
cop.
SPORT SHIRT garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
FOR BOYS. A shirt
made in numerical
sizes, designed for
informal wear
1. FOR BOYS. A shirt
made in numerical sizes,
designed for informal
wear and may be worn
with or without a jacket.
2. FOR MEN. A shirt
designed for informal
wear and made with
body sizes such as
small, medium, or large;
they may be worn with or
without a jacket.
SPORTS DENIM fabrics A lightweight denim
with a soft finish
made in a variety of
colours and patterns
A lightweight denim with
a soft finish made in a
variety of colours and
patterns. Used for
womens playclothes,
slacks, beach robes,
mens sportswear.
Sometimes also called
Faded denim
SPOT defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. A small
discoloured area on, or
in, a fabric.
SPOT AND CROSS
PAPER
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
In garment
manufacturing.
In garment
manufacturing. A paper
printed with a design of
alternate spots and
crosses, used for making
master markers.
SPOT CLEAN processes,
operations
See Stain removal. See Stain removal.
SPOT REMOVAL processes,
operations
See Stain removal. See Stain removal.
SPOT RESISTANT fabrics Fabric, which has
been treated to resist
stains.
Fabric, which has been
treated to resist stains.
SPOT STITCH seams,
stitches
An ornamental
decoration
An ornamental
decoration achieved by
crocheting regularly
spaced raised dots or
891
Word Category Short description Description
figures.
SPOTTED COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Cotton that has been
changed in colour to
a brown, cru, or
yellow cast by
unfavourable
weather, wet bolls,
stems, leaves,
rainstorms.
Cotton that has been
changed in colour to a
brown, cru, or yellow
cast by unfavourable
weather, wet bolls,
stems, leaves,
rainstorms. Spots on
cotton affect the grading.
SPOTTING processes,
operations
In cleaning, the
application of solvent
or solution to a
material prior to or
after commercial
scouring, laundering,
or drycleaning
In cleaning, the
application of solvent or
solution to a material
prior to or after
commercial scouring,
laundering, or
drycleaning to remove or
enhance removal of soil
or stains in a local area.
See also Pre-spotting.
SPRAY BONDING processes,
operations
A method of making
nonwoven fabrics in
which droplets of
adhesive are sprayed
on to the fibre web or
batt.
A method of making
nonwoven fabrics in
which droplets of
adhesive are sprayed on
to the fibre web or batt.
See also Adhesive
bonded non-woven
fabric.
SPRAY DYEING processes,
operations
Application of
colorant to a
substrate using a
spray gun
Application of colorant to
a substrate using a spray
gun with the object of
producing ombr effects.
SPRAY MARKING processes,
operations
In garment
manufacturing, the
method of outlining
patterns prior to
cutting by spraying
over the lay
In garment
manufacturing, the
method of outlining
patterns prior to cutting
by spraying over the lay,
leaving the pattern area
as a silhouette which can
then be cut.
SPRAY PRINTING processes,
operations
Application of dye to
fabric with a
compressed air spray
gun for shade
effects.
Application of dye to
fabric with a compressed
air spray gun for shade
effects.
Also selectively exposed
areas of fabric may be
printed with a type of
spray gun; different
stencil is employed for
892
Word Category Short description Description
each colour.
SPREAD LOOP processes,
operations
In weft knitting, a
needle loop
expanded over two
or more wales.
In weft knitting, a needle
loop expanded over two
or more wales. Applied
to stockings, the terms
spread loop and Knotted
stitch refer to expansion
over two wales and the
stockings are described
as mesh or (technically)
half-point transfer. The
stitch has ladder-
resistant properties.
SPREAD STITCHES defects See Pinhole. See Pinhole.
SPREADER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
IN LAYING UP. A
device for
manipulating fabric to
form the layers of a
lay.
1. IN LAYING UP. A
device for manipulating
fabric to form the layers
of a lay. It may vary from
primitive hand-moved
types to sophisticated
fully automatic machines.
2. IN SOME TYPES OF
SEWING MACHINE, a
part located under the
bed which assists loop
formation.
SPREADING processes,
operations
See Laying up See Laying up
SPREADING DEFECTS
IN GARMENT
defects See under Garment
defects, classified.
See under Garment
defects, classified.
SPRING LAY ROPE accessories See under Rope. See under Rope.
SPRING NEEDLE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See under Needle. See under Needle.
SPUN POLYESTER fabrics Lightweight woven or
knitted fabrics that
have a soft, warm
feel.
Lightweight woven or
knitted fabrics that have
a soft, warm feel.
Comfortable for sports
and casual clothes,
dresses, nightwear.
SPUN RAYON fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
Yarn or fabric made
from short lengths of
rayon filaments
which have been
twisted together
Yarn or fabric made from
short lengths of rayon
filaments which have
been twisted together in
a manner similar to the
spinning of cotton.
SPUN SILK fibers, This is a type of silk This is a type of silk yarn,
893
Word Category Short description Description
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
yarn, although the
fabric itself may be
labelled this way.
although the fabric itself
may be labelled this way.
Silk yarn consisting of
short filaments obtained
from silk wastes spun in
similar manner to
worsted yarn. The yarn is
made by breaking up
short fibres of waste silk
and spinning them
together, and this yarn is
then woven into fabric.
Although the fabric
should be cheaper than
silk, as it is made from
waste yarn, the
processing is lengthy
and expensive. The
fabric produced may be
of any weight.
SPUN VISCOSE fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
This is really the
name of a yarn, but
fabrics also carry this
title.
This is really the name of
a yarn, but fabrics also
carry this title. They are
in plain weave and may
be plain or printed.
These fabrics were once
considered poor in
quality and performance
but the fabric finishing
techniques have
improved so much that
they are now good
fashion fabrics. They are
soft and drape well and
are fairly warm, but they
crease in wear and are
highly inflammable. Used
for dresses, blouses,
shirts, nightwear and
childrens clothes.
SPUN YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn made from
staple fibres as
distinguished from
the continuous
filament yarn
A yarn made from staple
fibres as distinguished
from the continuous
filament yarn. A
continuous strand of
fibres that consists of
fibres of regular or
irregular length, held
together by some binding
894
Word Category Short description Description
mechanism, usually
bound together by twist
SPUN-BONDED fabrics Non-woven materials
in the form of sheets,
tapes and laminates
Non-woven materials in
the form of sheets, tapes
and laminates consisting
of fine webs of randomly
arranged continuous
filaments.
SPUN-DYEING processes,
operations
See Mass-
colouration.
See Mass-colouration.
SPUNLACED FABRIC fabrics See Hydroentangled
fabric.
See Hydroentangled
fabric.
SPYNDLE NUMBER fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A direct yarn-
numbering system
for jute rove and jute
yarns
A direct yarn-numbering
system for jute rove and
jute yarns in which the
number of pounds per
spyndle, or 14,400 yards
(13,167 metre) length, is
expressed as pounds per
spyndle. See also Direct
yarn numbering system.
SQUARE
CONSTRUCTION
fabrics A fabric in which the
same yarn number
and the same yarn
density are used in
both directions.
A fabric in which the
same yarn number and
the same yarn density
are used in both
directions.
SQUARE DESIGN PAPER accessories In weaving, the paper
used for representing
the interlacing of
warp and weft in a
woven fabric.
In weaving, the paper
used for representing the
interlacing of warp and
weft in a woven fabric.
SQUARE REPEAT processes,
operations
The exact
reproduction of any
unit print design
The exact reproduction
of any unit print design,
set at a given distance
exactly horizontal and
vertical to the original.
Also called Side to side.
SQUARE WEAVE fabrics Weave in which the
number of risers is
equal to the number
of sinkers in the
repeat.
Weave in which the
number of risers is equal
to the number of sinkers
in the repeat.
SQUEEGEE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The device (usually
in the form of a
blade) used to press
the printpaste
The device (usually in
the form of a blade) used
to press the printpaste,
or alternatively the light
sensitive emulsion,
895
Word Category Short description Description
through the mesh of the
screen. See also Doctor.
ST. GALL LACE fabrics Machine-made
imitation of Venetian
Lace
Machine-made imitation
of Venetian Lace,
copying the texture and
designs.
STABILITY TO THERMAL
OXIDATION
fabrics That property of a
fabric which resists
breaking under a
specified tensile
strain
That property of a fabric
which resists breaking
under a specified tensile
strain, when exposed to
a current of air at an
elevated temperature.
STABILIZATION fabrics A term usually
referring to fabrics in
which the dimensions
have been set by a
suitable preshrinking
operation
A term usually referring
to fabrics in which the
dimensions have been
set by a suitable
preshrinking operation,
or by chemical finishing.
STABILIZED YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Yarn which has been
subjected to a
heating and cooling
or other setting
treatment,
Yarn which has been
subjected to a heating
and cooling or other
setting treatment, usually
in order to reduce its
tendency to shrink,
contract, twist, snarl, or
stretch. Also called Set
yarn.
STABLE FABRIC fabrics A textile fabric, the
dimensions of which
do not change
significantly with
multiple passes
through measuring
devices
A textile fabric, the
dimensions of which do
not change significantly
with multiple passes
through measuring
devices. Compare Fabric
stability.
STAGE TWISTING processes,
operations
See Two-stage
twisting
See Two-stage twisting
STAIN defects Fabric defect. An
area of discoloration
that penetrates the
fabric surface,
Fabric defect. An area of
discoloration that
penetrates the fabric
surface, caused by a
local deposit of soil or
discoloration on a
substrate that exhibits
some degree of
resistance to removal, as
by laundering or dry-
cleaning.
896
Word Category Short description Description
STAIN REMOVAL processes,
operations
A cleaning procedure
for localised areas on
textiles with cleaning
agents and
mechanical action
specific to the
removal of the
foreign substances
present.
A cleaning procedure for
localised areas on
textiles with cleaning
agents and mechanical
action specific to the
removal of the foreign
substances present.
Stains should be treated
as soon as possible; the
longer a stain remains on
an item, the harder it will
be to re-move.
Knowledge of fibre
content help to
determine appropriate
solvents, e.g. attempting
to remove a nail pol-ish
stain on an acetate fabric
with nail polish remover
that contains acetone
would destroy the fabric.
Evalua-tion of the fabric
structure also is
important, e.g. rubbing
hard on a stain on a pile
fabric will flatten the pile,
rubbing may abrade the
surface of a satin weave
fabric. Before any stain
remover is used, the
textile should be tested
to determine whether it is
colourfast to the stain
remover or whether it
may have a finish that
the stain remover will
harm.
ADHESIVE TAPE,
CHEWING GUM,
RUBBER CEMENT:
Apply ice or cold water to
harden surface; scrape
with a dull knife. Saturate
with cleaning liquid.
Rinse; then launder.
BABY FORMULA: Soak
in a product containing
enzymes for at least 30
minutes (several hours
897
Word Category Short description Description
for aged stains).
Launder.
BEVERAGES (COFFEE,
TEA, SOFT DRINKS,
WINE, ALCOHOLIC
BEVERAGES): Sponge
or soak stain in cool
water. Then pretreat with
prewash stain remover,
liquid laundry detergent,
liquid detergent booster,
or paste of granu-lar
laundry product and
water. Launder using a
chlorine bleach, if safe
for fabric, or an oxygen
bleach. Older stains may
respond to soaking in a
product containing
enzymes, then
laundering.
BLOOD: If stain is fresh,
soak in cold water. For
dried stains, soak in
warm water with a
product containing en-
zymes. Launder. If stain
remains, rewash using a
bleach safe for fabric.
BROWN OR YELLOW
COLOURATIOIN FROM
IRON, RUST,
MANGANESE: Use a
rust remover
recommended for fab-
rics; launder. Do not use
a chlorine bleach to
remove rust stains
because it may intensify
discoloration. For a rusty
water problem, use a
nonprecipitating water
softener in both wash
and rinse water. For
severe problems, install
an iron filter in the
system.
CANDLE WAX: Scrape
off surface wax with a
898
Word Category Short description Description
dull knife. Place stain
between clean paper
towels and press with a
warm iron. Replace
paper towels frequently
to absorb more wax and
to avoid transferring
stains. Place stain face
down on clean paper
towels. Sponge
remaining stain with
cleaning fluid; blot with
paper towels. Let dry.
Launder. If any colour
remains, rewash using a
chlorine bleach, if safe
for fabric, or an oxygen
bleach.
CHOCOLATE: Prewash
with a product containing
enzymes in warm water
or treat with a prewash
stain remover. Launder.
If stain remains, rewash
using a bleach safe for
fabric.
COLLAR, CUFF SOIL:
Pretreat with prewash
stain remover, liquid
laundry detergent, or
paste of granular deter-
gent and water. Launder.
COSMETICS: Pretreat
with prewash stain
remover, liquid laundry
detergent, paste of
granular detergent, or
laun-dry additive and
water or rub with bar
soap. Launder.
CRAYON: For a few
spots, treat same as
candle wax. For a whole
load of clothes, wash
with hot water using a
laundry soap and 1 cup
baking soda. If colour
remains, launder using a
chlorine bleach, if safe
899
Word Category Short description Description
for fabric. Oth-erwise,
soak in a product
containing enzymes or
an oxygen bleach using
hottest water safe for
fabric, then launder.
DAIRY PRODUCTS
(MILK, CREAM, ICE
CREAM, YOGURT,
SOUR CREAM, CREAM
SOUPS): Soak in a
product con-taining
enzymes for at least 30
minutes (several hours
for aged stains).
Launder.
DEODORANTS,
ANTIPERSPIRANTS:
Pretreat with liquid
laundry detergent.
Launder. For heavy
stains, pretreat with
prewash stain remover.
Allow to stand 5 to 10
minutes. Launder using
an oxygen bleach.
DYE TRANSFER:
Attempt restoration of
white fabrics that have
picked up colour from
other fabrics by using a
packaged colour
remover, following label
directions. Launder. If
dye remains, launder
again using a chlorine
bleach, if safe for fabric.
For coloured fabrics and
whites that cannot be
chlorine bleached, soak
in oxygen bleach.
Launder. This type of
stain can be prevented if
proper sorting and
laundering procedures
are followed.
EGG: Soak in a product
containing enzymes for
at least 30 minutes
900
Word Category Short description Description
(several hours for aged
stains). Launder.
FABRIC SOFTENER:
Dampen the stain and
rub with bar soap. Rinse
out, then launder.
FRUIT, J UICES: Wash
with bleach safe for
fabric.
GRASS: Soak in product
containing enzymes. If
stain persists, launder
using a chlorine bleach,
if safe for fabric, or an
oxygen bleach.
GREASE, OIL (CAR
GREASE, BUTTER,
ANIMAL FATS, SALAD
DRESSINGS, COOKING
OILS, MOTOR OILS):
Pretreat with prewash
stain remover, liquid
laundry detergent, or
liquid laundry detergent
booster. For heavy
stains, place stain face
down on clean paper
towels. Apply cleaning
fluid to back of stain.
Replace paper towels
under stain frequently.
Let dry, rinse. Launder
using hottest water safe
for fabric.
INK: Some inks in each
of the following
categories - ballpoint,
felt-tip and liquid - may
be impossible to re-
move. Laundering may
set some types of ink.
Try a pretreatment
method using a prewash
stain remover, dena-
tured alcohol or cleaning
fluid.
Use one of the following
methods with denatured
alcohol or cleaning fluid.
901
Word Category Short description Description
First, sponge the area
around the stain with the
stain remover before
applying it directly on the
stain. Place stain face
down on clean paper
tow-els. Apply denatured
alcohol or cleaning fluid
to back of stain. Replace
paper towels under the
stain frequently. Rinse
thoroughly. Launder.
Another method is to
place the stain over the
mouth of a jar or glass
and hold the fabric in a
taut position. Drip the
stain remover through
the spot so that the ink
will drop into the
container as it is being
removed. Rinse
thoroughly. Launder.
MILDEW: For newly
formed mildew stains, a
strong soap solution
followed by exposure to
air.
Stained items are
laundered using a
chlorine bleach, if safe
for fabric, and exposed
to air. Repeated if neces-
sary. Or soaked in
oxygen bleach and hot
water; then laundered.
Very badly mildewed
fabrics may be damaged
beyond repair.
MUD: When dry, brush
off as much as possible.
Pretreat with a paste of
granular detergent and
water, liquid laundry
detergent or a liquid
detergent booster.
Launder. For heavy
stains, pretreat or
presoak with a laundry
902
Word Category Short description Description
detergent or a product
containing enzymes.
Launder.
MUSTARD: Pretreat with
prewash stain remover.
Launder using chlorine
bleach, if safe for fabric.
NAIL POLISH: May be
possible to remove. Try
nail polish remover but
do not use on acetate or
triacetate fabrics. Place
stain face down on clean
paper towels. Apply nail
polish remover to back of
stain. Replace paper
towels under stain
frequently. Repeat until
stain disappears, if it
does. Rinse and launder.
PAINT, WATER-BASED:
Rinse fabric in warm
water while stains are
still wet, then launder.
Once paint is dry, it
cannot be removed.
PAINT, OIL-BASED AND
VARNISH: Use the same
solvent the label on the
can advises for a thinner.
If label is not available,
use turpentine. Rinse.
Pretreat with prewash
stain remover, bar soap
or laundry detergent.
Rinse and launder.
PERFUME: Pretreat with
prewash stain remover
or liquid laundry
detergent. Launder.
PERSPIRATION: Use a
prewash stain remover
or rub with bar soap. If
perspiration has changed
the colour of the fabric,
apply ammonia to fresh
stains, white vinegar to
old stains and rinse.
Launder using hottest
903
Word Category Short description Description
water safe for fabric.
Stubborn stains may
respond to washing in a
product containing
enzymes or oxygen
bleach in hottest water
safe for fabric.
PINE RESIN: Sponge
cleaning fluid into the
stain; let dry. Mix liquid
laundry detergent and
ammonia; soak stain in
the solution. Launder
using liquid laundry
detergent.
SCORCH: Badly
scorched fabrics may be
damaged beyond repair.
Launder stained items
using a chlorine bleach,
if safe for fabric. Or soak
in oxygen bleach and hot
water; then launder.
SHOE POLISH, LIQUID:
Pretreat with a paste of
granular detergent and
water; launder.
SHOE POLISH, PASTE:
Scrape residue from
fabric with a dull knife.
Pretreat with a prewash
stain remover or cleaning
fluid. Rinse. Rub
detergent into dampened
area. Launder using a
chlorine bleach, if safe
for fabric, or an oxygen
bleach.
TAR: Scrape residue
from fabric. Place stain
face down on paper
towels. Sponge with
cleaning fluid. Replace
paper towels frequently
to absorb more tar and to
avoid transferring stains.
Launder in hottest water
safe for fabric.
TOBACCO: Dampen
904
Word Category Short description Description
stain and rub with bar
soap. Rinse. Soak in a
product containing
enzymes; then launder. If
stain remains, launder
again using chlorine
bleach, if safe for fabric.
TYPEWRITER
CORRECTION FLUID:
Let stain dry thoroughly.
Gently brush excess off
with a clothes brush. Dry
clean.
URINE, VOMIT,
MUCOUS, FECES OR
STOOL: Soak in a
product containing
enzymes. Launder using
chlorine bleach, if safe
for fabric, or use oxygen
bleach.
STAINED COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Discoloured cotton
fibres.
Discoloured cotton
fibres. Cotton almost
entirely discoloured to a
slightly mottled tan
colour is called yellow
stained cotton, and
cotton discoloured by
exposure to frost and
other causes until it is
grey or, in severe cases,
a light slate colour is
called grey cotton or
blue stained cotton
STAND garments,
made-ups,
assemblies,
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
That part of a collar,
which joins the neck
edge of the garment
1. That part of a collar,
which joins the neck
edge of the garment and
terminates at the crease
of the collar where the
fall commences.
2. See Bust.
STANDARD
ATMOSPHERE FOR
PRECONDITIONING
general In the testing of
textiles, this is, an
atmosphere having a
relative humidity of 5
to 25 %
In the testing of textiles,
this is, an atmosphere
having a relative
humidity of 5 to 25 %,
2 % tolerance for the
selected relative
humidity, and a
905
Word Category Short description Description
temperature of not over
50 C (122 F), with 1
C (2 F) tolerance for
the selected temperature
and used to partially dry
the material before
further treatment or
conditioning.
STANDARD
ATMOSPHERE FOR
TESTING
general An atmosphere for
testing in which the
conditions for relative
humidity and
temperature are
specified and
controlled.
An atmosphere for
testing in which the
conditions for relative
humidity and
temperature are
specified and controlled.
In the testing of textiles,
this is, an atmosphere in
which the air is
maintained at a relative
humidity of 65 2 % and
at a temperature of 21
1 C (70 2 F).
STANDARD CONDITION general The state of being in
moisture equilibrium
with the standard
atmosphere for
testing
The state of being in
moisture equilibrium with
the standard atmosphere
for testing. See Moisture
equilibrium for testing.
STANDARD DEPTH
SCALE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
In colour
measurement, a
series of dyed
samples of different
hue and chroma that
have been accepted
to have the same
depth.
In colour measurement,
a series of dyed samples
of different hue and
chroma that have been
accepted to have the
same depth.
STANDARD
HAIRWEIGHT
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The hairweight of
cotton fibre divided
by its maturity ratio.
The hairweight of cotton
fibre divided by its
maturity ratio. It is
usually denoted by HS.
STANDARD HWM
FIBRES
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under HWM
modal fibre.
See under HWM modal
fibre.
STANDARD MOISTURE
REGAIN
general The amount of
moisture contained
by a textile material
when conditioned or
brought into
equilibrium in
standard
The amount of moisture
contained by a textile
material when
conditioned or brought
into equilibrium in
standard atmosphere.
The equilibrium is to be
906
Word Category Short description Description
atmosphere. approached from a state
of lower region. See
Moisture regain.
STANDARD
PERFORMANCE
SPECIFICATIONS FOR
FABRICS
fabrics Specifications that
cover the evaluation
of specific
performance
characteristics of
importance in fabrics,
meant for various
end uses
Specifications that cover
the evaluation of specific
performance
characteristics of
importance in fabrics,
meant for various end
uses.
The specifications are
used by mutual
agreement between the
purchaser and the
supplier to establish
purchas-ing specification
requirements. However,
the specifications may
not purport to address all
of the safety prob-lems, if
any, associated with its
use. The user of such
specifications, may
establish appropriate
safety and health
practices and determine
the applicability of
regulatory limitations
prior to its use.
See also Fabric
performance
characteristics.
STAPLE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The name given to
textile fibres of
limited length. Fibres
of finite length, as
opposed to a
continuous filament.
The name given to textile
fibres of limited length.
Fibres of finite length, as
opposed to a continuous
filament. Natural fibres or
cut lengths from
filaments. To make a
continuous length of yarn
with staple fibres, they
have to be twisted
together. Staple fibres
can range from about 10
mm to many centimetres
in length, but in no case
do they ever become
long enough to be
classed as filament.
907
Word Category Short description Description
However, man-made
filaments can be
converted into staple
fibres by deliberately
cutting them into short
lengths.
An example of a natural
staple fibre is cotton. If a
yarn from an ordinary
cotton fabric is untwisted,
it will be seen to break
down into fine fibres of
about two or three
centimetres long.
STAPLE CRIMP fibers,
filaments,
yarns
In wool, (a) the
natural waves in a
grease lock (
In wool, (a) the natural
waves in a grease lock
(b) one complete wave
or undulation of a
crimped lock.
STAPLE DENIER fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Diameter fineness of
staple rayon.
Diameter fineness of
staple rayon.
STAPLE FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Man-made fibres of
pre-determined short
lengths.
Man-made fibres of pre-
determined short
lengths. The fibres,
which may or may not be
crimped, are usually
prepared by cutting or
breaking filaments of the
material into lengths
suitable for the
processing system in
question. These normally
range from 5 mm to 500
mm and have a linear
density of 0.5 - 50
decitex, although special
products are made
outside these ranges.
STAPLE GLASS YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Yarn, made from
filaments that are
nominally 8 to 15 in.
(200 to 380 mm) in
length.
Yarn, made from
filaments that are
nominally 8 to 15 in. (200
to 380 mm) in length.
STAPLE LENGTH fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Fibre
length
See under Fibre length
STAPLE YARN fibers, Yarn, spun from Yarn, spun from staple or
908
Word Category Short description Description
filaments,
yarns
staple or short fibres. short fibres.
STAPLED SEAM seams,
stitches
A seam formed by
shaped metal
devices such as U-
shaped staples.
A seam formed by
shaped metal devices
such as U-shaped
staples. A stapled seam
may be used in
upholstering when
fabrics are attached to a
frame. (Compare Glued
seam, Sewn seam,
Thermally-bonded
seam.)
STAR STEAMER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A steamer in which
the printed cloth is
wound round a star-
shaped frame by
means of pins.
A steamer in which the
printed cloth is wound
round a star-shaped
frame by means of pins.
This frame is then
lowered into a chamber,
the lid tightened down
and steam injected
through perforated pipes
in the base.
STARCH LUMP defects See Hard size. See Hard size.
STARCHLESS FINISH processes,
operations
A durable finish
which lasts through
several washings
A durable finish which
lasts through several
washings, and obviates
the use of starch for
body and crispness.
STARFISH PROJ ECT processes,
operations
It is the code-name
given by The
International Institute
for Cotton in 1984, to
one of their extensive
research program
into the shrinkage of
knitted cotton fabrics
It is the code-name given
by The International
Institute for Cotton in
1984, to one of their
extensive research
program into the
shrinkage of knitted
cotton fabrics that has
led to a practical system
for reliably predicting the
shrinkage and
dimensional properties of
finished knitted cotton
fabrics.
START-UP MARK defects Fabric defect. Also
called Stop mark,
Stopping line.
Fabric defect. Also called
Stop mark, Stopping line.
1. IN WOVEN FABRIC.
A crosswise streak,
caused by starting up the
909
Word Category Short description Description
loom that had been idle
for a long period of time.
Sometimes the cloth may
show bright or dim mark
lines in the weft direction,
caused by the weaver
not starting the loom at
the correct warp tension.
1. IN KNITTED FABRIC.
A band of several
courses having stitch
characteristics different
from those in the normal
fabric. It is usually
caused by a change in
yarn tension resulting
from the deceleration
and standing time when
the machine stops.
STATEMENT processes,
operations
In fully fashioned
knitting. A written
program describing
the events required
to knit a portion of a
fully-fashioned
garment sequentially.
In fully fashioned knitting.
A written program
describing the events
required to knit a portion
of a fully-fashioned
garment sequentially.
STATIC ELECTRICITY IN
TEXTILES
fabrics Static electricity is
created when two
dissimilar substances
are rubbed together
and then separated,
Static electricity is
created when two
dissimilar substances are
rubbed together and then
separated, causing
negatively charged
electrons to be removed
from one surface and
attracted to the other.
The surface from which
the electrons are
removed becomes
positively charged and
the surface to which they
are attached becomes
negatively charged. In
the list below, textile
fibres are arranged in
such an order that any
one of them rubbed
against another below it
on the list will become
positively charged, and if
910
Word Category Short description Description
rubbed against another
above it, will become
negatively charged.
The further apart they
are on the list, the
greater the charge
generated. Human and
animal skin occupies a
posi-tion near to cotton
and viscose rayon. A
person wearing an
acrylic or PVC garment
could produce a fairly
strong charge, which will
show, sparks when the
fabric is removed from
the skin. Equally two
fabrics worn to-gether
e.g. an acrylic sweater
over a wool or nylon
dress when separated
could produce the same
result.
Natural fibres generate
less electrostatic charge
than synthetics because
they absorb moisture,
which is a con-ductor.
Synthetic fibres, being
non-absorbent, tend to
store static charges, and
there are problems in
obtaining a really durable
anti-stat process for
them, as they are
normally hydrophobic the
aim of the antistat finish
is to make them
hydrophilic, to provide
some degree of moisture
absorption, which helps
to conduct away the
static charge. See also
Anti-static Finish
STATIC FRICTION general Friction developed
between two
touching bodies
Friction developed
between two touching
bodies at the time one
body starts to move
relative to another.
911
Word Category Short description Description
(Compare Kinetic
Friction.)
STATION apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Fixing position for
each printing unit in a
printing machine of
any type.
Fixing position for each
printing unit in a printing
machine of any type.
Also known as Nip.
STAY BINDING fabrics See under Binding. See under Binding.
STAY TAPE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A narrow strip of firm,
plain woven, non-
stretch fabric
A narrow strip of firm,
plain woven, non-stretch
fabric used for
strengthening or
controlling various parts
of a garment
STEAM CLEANING processes,
operations
A term often used in
place of hot water
extraction.
A term often used in
place of hot water
extraction. See Hot water
extraction.
STEAM HEAT-SETTING processes,
operations
See under Heat-
setting.
See under Heat-setting.
STEAMER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A machine used in
the process of
steaming
A machine used in the
process of steaming
STEAMING processes,
operations
In textile dyeing or
printing, the
treatment with moist
steam to promote
penetration and/or
fixation of the dye.
1. In textile dyeing or
printing, the treatment
with moist steam to
promote penetration
and/or fixation of the dye.
The steam may be
neutral, acid, or air-free
depending on the dye
class.
2. Treating woollens with
steam for controlled
shrinkage.
STEEL CORD garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A formed structure
made by twisting
together two or more
steel filaments or
steel strands
A formed structure made
by twisting together two
or more steel filaments
or steel strands
STEEL CORD WRAP garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A filament wound
helically around a
steel cord.
A filament wound
helically around a steel
cord.
STEEL FILAMENT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The individual
element in a steel
strand or cord.
The individual element in
a steel strand or cord.
STEEL STRAND garments,
made-ups,
A group of steel
filaments combined
A group of steel
filaments combined
912
Word Category Short description Description
assemblies together to form a
unit product.
together to form a unit
product.
STEEP TWILL fabrics A twill weave in
which the angle of
the twill line is more
than 45.
A twill weave in which
the angle of the twill line
is more than 45.
STENCIL PRINT processes,
operations
A type of resist
printing.
A type of resist printing.
Portions of the design to
be resisted are covered
with paper or metal, so
that those part do not
take dye.
STENTER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Also called Tenter Also called Tenter. An
open-width fabric-
finishing machine used
for adjusting the
dimensions of fabrics,
drying, heat setting and
fixing chemical finishes.
See also Stentering
STENTER MARK defects See Clip mark. See Clip mark.
STENTERING processes,
operations
Same as Tentering.
A controlled
straightening and
stretching process of
cloth which has been
pulled out of shape
due to the many
rough finishing
processes.
Same as Tentering. A
controlled straightening
and stretching process of
cloth which has been
pulled out of shape due
to the many rough
finishing processes. The
selvedges of the cloth
are attached to a series
of pins/hooks/clips as it
is fed through a stenter
machine; an oven of
controlled temperature,
which is dry, heated or
steam heated. During the
process, as the
pins/hooks/clips are
gradually placed further
apart widthways, the
cloth is slowly and
permanently brought out
to the desired width.
Stenterring give the
fabric particular
dimensions of length and
width, and eliminate
creasing. Thermoplastic
913
Word Category Short description Description
fibre fabrics achieve a
set, when stentered.
STEP-AND-REPEAT
PRINTING MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A machine which
copies as many
repeats as are
required
A machine which copies
as many repeats as are
required on to a
sensitised screen or film
in correct register.
STEP-HALF processes,
operations
See Half-drop. See Half-drop.
STEREO processes,
operations
In printing, a copy of
cast
In printing, a copy of
cast. In flexographic
printing the term is
applied to the moulded
rubber repeats of the
pattern, many of which
are fixed together to form
a complete roller. See
also Cast block.
STICK-SLIP general Alternate periods of
sticking and slipping
of the surfaces in
contact
Alternate periods of
sticking and slipping of
the surfaces in contact,
when boundary
lubrication is deficient.
STICKER defects Fabric defect. A
distortion in the
weave characterised
by tight and slack
places in the same
warp yarns
Fabric defect. A
distortion in the weave
characterised by tight
and slack places in the
same warp yarns,
caused by warp ends
restricted by broken
filament slubs, or knots
catching at lease rods,
drop wires, heddles,
reeds, or rolled ends.
Same as Draw-Back,
Hitch Back, Rolled End,
Tie Back, Warp Holding
Place.
STIFFENED COTTON
SEW-IN
fabrics See under Sew-in
Woven interfacing.
See under Sew-in
Woven interfacing.
STIFFNESS fabrics Resistance to
deflection or other
distortion
Resistance to deflection
or other distortion, with
regard to circular
bending of textiles;
resistance to
multidirectional bending
STIPPLING processes, In hand engraving for In hand engraving for
914
Word Category Short description Description
operations printing, the tonal
effects produced by
punching small dots
on the copper
cylinder with a series
of small punches and
hammers
printing, the tonal effects
produced by punching
small dots on the copper
cylinder with a series of
small punches and
hammers. Not much in
use now, because
gradations can now be
more easily produced
photographically.
STITCH seams,
stitches,
fabrics
IN SEWN SEAMS.
The repeated unit
formed by the sewing
thread(s) in the
production of seams.
1. IN SEWN SEAMS.
The repeated unit formed
by the sewing thread(s)
in the production of
seams. The geometric
configuration of threads
used to produce a
particular seam. Stitches
may be used to join
pieces of fabric or to
produce a decorative
effect. They are
classified according to
their geometric
configuration and are
placed into a number of
categories within the
BS/ISO system.
2. IN WEAVING. See
Binding point.
3. IN KNITTING. An
intermeshed loop in a
knitted fabric
4. IN TUFTED PILE
FLOOR COVERING.
The number of pile tufts
per inch in the
lengthways direction.
5. In RUBBERISED
ARTICLES. To press
uncured rubber
compound into or around
yarns or cords to form a
com-posite of the
materials and to remove
entrapped air.
STITCH DENSITY seams,
stitches
In sewn seams, the
number of stitches
per unit length in one
In sewn seams, the
number of stitches per
unit length in one row of
915
Word Category Short description Description
row of stitching in the
seam.
stitching in the seam.
The number of repeats of
the stitch per unit length
of the seam, expressed
as stitches per
centimetre or stitches per
inch.
STITCH GAUGE seams,
stitches
In sewn seams, the
perpendicular
distance between
adjacent parallel
rows of stitching.
In sewn seams, the
perpendicular distance
between adjacent
parallel rows of stitching.
STITCH HOLDING processes,
operations
In weft knitting, a
method of shaping a
knitted product by
changing the number
of loops in individual
wales by continuing
to knit on certain
needles whilst
knitting is stopped
and the stitches held
on other needles for
a given number of
courses.
In weft knitting, a method
of shaping a knitted
product by changing the
number of loops in
individual wales by
continuing to knit on
certain needles whilst
knitting is stopped and
the stitches held on other
needles for a given
number of courses. It is
possible to start to knit
again and join the held
stitches into a
continuation of the fabric.
In flchage the stitch
holding is used to
produce wedge shaped
areas of fabric.
STITCH SHAPED CUT
GARMENT
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Stitch shaped cut is a
class of knitted
garment derived from
knitted blanks
(rectangles of knitted
fabric).
All knitted garments are
classified into four
classes according to
general production
methods; Fully Cut,
Stitch Shaped Cut, Fully
Fashioned and Integral.
Stitch shaped cut is a
class of knitted garment
derived from knitted
blanks (rectangles of
knitted fabric). The
dimensions of the blank
are determined by the
sizes of the garment
portions to be cut from it.
The majority of knitwear
916
Word Category Short description Description
is produced by this
method, together with a
very small production of
ladies vests. The main
advantage of this
process is the relatively
very low wastage of
fabric.
The general method
involves knitting of
rectangular fabric pieces.
The pieces, known as
blanks, have the lower
edge of the fabric sealed
with a structure known
as a welt that prevents
laddering and distortions
of waistbands and cuffs
The term stitch shaped
derives from different
stitch structures within
the length of the blank
that distort it from the
rectangle into a shape
associated with the
human body. Commonly
such shaping involves
engineered rib
waistbands and cuffs
that restrict the lower
extremity of the garment
but are extensible. In
ladies vests such
waistbands occur in the
middle of the garment
blank.
These blanks require
minimal preparation for
seaming. Cutting
involves trimming for
length and sometimes for
width, followed by cutting
neckholes and armholes,
lower arms and shoulder
shaping.
The blank is always
made as near as
possible to the exact size
of the garment portion, or
917
Word Category Short description Description
a width multiple of the
garment portions. The
knitting machinery
employed to produce the
blanks is in its
mechanised form the
most complex of all,
although it must be
admitted that simple
hand flat knitting
machines can produce
highly com-plex blanks,
with the programme
being in the brain of the
operative.
There are two types of
knitting machine
employed; flat and
circular. Both are usually
rib machines, with two
knitting beds and two
sets of needles. Some
are purl type, with two
beds sharing one set of
needles. Flat knit-ting
machines knit blanks
with selvedges on the
side of the fabric. The
blank can be any width
up to the total width of
the machine bed. Two or
more blanks can be
knitted at the same time.
Flat machines vary in
their complexity with the
simple types being used
for relatively simple
garments. Most
machines now are
computer controlled and
programmed and are
built for prodigious
versatility of fabric type
and patterning. (Other
mechanical
developments of this
type of machinery also
allow the production of
fully-fashioned and
918
Word Category Short description Description
integral garments,
although at the expense
of the production rate).
The circular machines
produce blanks in the
form of tubes. The
approach now employed
is to have very large
diameter machines
producing large
circumference tubes that
are split down the side,
opened out and cut in to
a series of widths of
bodies and sleeves to fit
the production
requirements and
minimise waste.
Yet a further approach is
the variable
circumference machine.
This type can produce
fabrics as an open width
blank, the width of which
can be varied to suit the
production requirements,
with minimal waste. Now
circular garment length
machines come with
programming computers
having Computer Aided
Design (CAD) facility.
The garments are
assembled almost
entirely by the use of
three and four thread
overlock machines.
Seam cover-ing stitches
are sometimes used on
the facings or stolling of
cardigan and back neck
seams. Collars are often
attached by linked, or
increasingly, mock lined
seams. Lockstitch seams
are used when attaching
inextensible trims such
as ribbon facings,
plackets, leather and
919
Word Category Short description Description
woven fabric decorative
portions, and tabs and
labels.
Often, in the initial stages
of production prior to
cutting, the blanks are
steamed in an open bed
- in the case of acrylics -
or pressed in the case of
woollen and cotton.
Heavy, rectangular, wire
frames are sometimes
used to hold the blanks
to prescribed
dimensions.
STITCH SHAPING processes,
operations
In weft knitting, a
garment shaped
wholly or partially by
change of stitch
length,
In weft knitting, a
garment shaped wholly
or partially by change of
stitch length, or structure,
or both, e.g. from 1x1 rib
to half cardigan rib.
STITCH TRANSFERRING processes,
operations
A method of shaping
a garment panel on a
flat knitting machine
A method of shaping a
garment panel on a flat
knitting machine by
transferring selvedge
loops from one needle
bed to the other in a
particular sequence
designed to increase or
decrease the width of the
fabric over a given
number of courses,
whilst maintaining a
secure selvedge and
without changing the
structure.
STITCH TYPE seams,
stitches
A numerical
designation relating
to the essential
characteristics of the
interlacing of sewing
thread(s) in a
specified seam in
sewn fabric.
A numerical designation
relating to the essential
characteristics of the
interlacing of sewing
thread(s) in a specified
seam in sewn fabric.
In sewn seams, a
numerical designation
relating to the essential
characteristics of the
interlacing of sewing
thread(s) in a specified
920
Word Category Short description Description
stitch
STITCH-BONDED
FABRIC
fabrics Also called Sew-knit
Fabric.
Also called Sew-knit
Fabric. Fabrics produced
by unconventional
methods, other than
weaving. Yarns are
stitched together or a
web of fibres is stitched.
See Malimo.
STITCHED AND PINKED
SEAM-FINISH
general A finish for the raw
edges of the seam
allowances of a plain
seam, in which each
raw seam allowance
edge is machine
stitched and then cut
to a zigzag raw edge.
A finish for the raw
edges of the seam
allowances of a plain
seam, in which each raw
seam allowance edge is
machine stitched and
then cut to a zigzag raw
edge. A stitched and
pinked seam-finish is
made by first stitching 6
mm from the raw edge of
each seam allowance
and then trimming close
to that stitching with pink-
ing shears. (Compare
Pinked Seam-finish.)
STITCHED BASKET
WEAVE
fabrics A basket weave in
which the length of
floats is reduced to
produce a firm fabric.
A basket weave in which
the length of floats is
reduced to produce a
firm fabric.
STITCHED HOPSACK fabrics See under Hopsack. See under Hopsack.
STITCHED PLACE defects Fabric defect. An
area where the
interlacing of the
warp and weft
threads does not
conform to the
planned weave.
Fabric defect. An area
where the interlacing of
the warp and weft
threads does not
conform to the planned
weave. It is usually
caused by one or more
ends being lifted out of
sequence by an adjacent
end or heddle.
STITCHED SEAM seams,
stitches
See Sewn seam. See Sewn seam.
STITCHING processes,
operations,
defects
A series of stitches
embodied in a
material or materials
of planar structure
such as woven textile
1.A series of stitches
embodied in a material
or materials of planar
structure such as woven
textile fabrics, usually for
921
Word Category Short description Description
fabrics ornamental purposes,
finishing or joining
edges.
2. See Cobwebbing
STITCHING J IG apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A device having two
rigid plates usually
hinged together
between which fabric
is clamped for
stitching.
A device having two rigid
plates usually hinged
together between which
fabric is clamped for
stitching. The plates are
guided by a track thus
reducing the skill needed
for accurate sewing of
small parts, e.g. collars,
cuffs, flaps. See also
Profile Stitching.
STITCHINGS seams,
stitches
Stitchings consist of
a sequence of
stitches
Stitchings consist of a
sequence of stitches,
applied to a fabric or
composite, for the
purpose of finishing an
edge or for
ornamentation
STOCK DYEING processes,
operations
Dyeing loose fibres in
bulk form
Dyeing loose fibres in
bulk form, before any
yarn manufacturing
operations have begun
STOCK IN PROCESS general In textile spinning,
staple fibres at any
stage of manufacture
In textile spinning, staple
fibres at any stage of
manufacture between
the opening of the bale
and the completion of the
spinning process
STOCKINETTE fabrics IN KNITS. A knitted
fabric made with a
plain stitch or wool,
cotton, man-made
fibres or
combinations of
these fibres, in
tubular or flat form.
1. IN KNITS. A knitted
fabric made with a plain
stitch or wool, cotton,
man-made fibres or
combinations of these
fibres, in tubular or flat
form. Used for
underwear, industrial and
other purposes. In
heavier constructions,
dyed and napped, it finds
apparel uses.
2. IN WOVEN. A
variation of the two up,
two down twill weave
generally employed for
922
Word Category Short description Description
spongy fabric of low
count yarns.
STOLL ABRASION
TESTER
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
Specialised machine
developed for testing
the wear-life of
fabrics
Specialised machine
developed for testing the
wear-life of fabrics by
flex and flat abrasion,
bending, rolling and
folding
STOLLING garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A knitted strip used
as a facing, in which
the wales run along
the length
A knitted strip used as a
facing, in which the
wales run along the
length
STONE WASH processes,
operations
See under Enzymes. See under Enzymes.
STOP accessories In zippers, the device
at the top and bottom
of the chain or
stringer
In zippers, the device at
the top and bottom of the
chain or stringer that
prevents the slider from
leaving the chain.
STOP MARK defects Also called Start-up
Mark. Fabric defect,
may be major or
minor
Also called Start-up
Mark. Fabric defect, may
be major or minor. A
visible change in the
density of the weave
across the width of the
fabric caused by the
tension on the warp not
being adjusted properly
after the loom has been
stopped. When the loom
is stopped, the yarn
elongates under tension;
then when the loom
starts again, the
slackness is woven into
the fabric. See also Set
Mark.
STOP MOTION apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A device which stops
the machine
whenever a fault or a
break occurs.
A device which stops the
machine whenever a
fault or a break occurs.
STOP, RELEASING accessories See Bottom
Releasing Stop
See Bottom Releasing
Stop
STOPPING LINE defects See Start-up Mark. See Start-up Mark.
STORAGE STABILITY processes,
operations
The ability of a
sensitized fabric to
remain sensitized
1. The ability of a
sensitized fabric to
remain sensitized without
923
Word Category Short description Description
without curing itself
spontaneously while
being stored.
curing itself
spontaneously while
being stored.
2.In general, the ability of
a textile material to retain
its properties under
storage.
STOTING seams,
stitches
A hand stitch used to
draw together two cut
edges of fabrics.
A hand stitch used to
draw together two cut
edges of fabrics.
STOVING processes,
operations
A process for
bleaching wool, silk,
hair or other
keratinous materials
A process for bleaching
wool, silk, hair or other
keratinous materials in a
moist condition with
sulphur dioxide in a
chamber.
STRAIGHT DRAFT processes,
operations
The passage of the
warp ends of a
repeat in sequence
from the first to the
last harness
The passage of the warp
ends of a repeat in
sequence from the first
to the last harness
STRAIGHT KNIFE
CUTTING MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A machine with a
vertical reciprocating
blade used for cutting
fabric lays.
A machine with a vertical
reciprocating blade used
for cutting fabric lays.
Also called a vertical
cutting machine.
STRAIGHT LINE SYSTEM processes,
operations
A garment production
system
A garment production
system, in which single
garments or parts are
assembled by passing
through a series of
consecutive operations,
performed by different
operators.
STRAIGHT-BAR
KNITTING MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A type of knitting
machine equipped
with vertically
disposed bearded
needles mounted in a
bar.
A type of knitting
machine equipped with
vertically disposed
bearded needles
mounted in a bar. Loop
formation is aided by
loop forming sinkers,
knock over bits and
pressers. Machines are
actually made with a
number of heads, each
head consisting of a
needle bar with its
attendant sinkers and
924
Word Category Short description Description
capable of producing a
single piece garment. It
is this machine that is
used to produce the
majority of fully-
fashioned garments,
most of which are knitted
in plain fabric.
STRAIN defects Deformation of a
material caused by
the application of an
external force.
Deformation of a material
caused by the
application of an external
force. See also Tensile
Strain.
STRAND fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A single fibre,
filament, or
monofilament.
1. A single fibre, filament,
or monofilament.
2. An ordered
assemblage of textile
fibres having a high ratio
of length to diameter and
normally used as a unit,
including slivers, rovings,
single yarns, plied yarns,
cords, braids, ropes, etc.
3. In braided rope, one of
a number of similar units,
which are intertwined to
produce a braided rope,
each unit consisting of
one or more yarns which
are not twisted together
and which follow a
prescribed path through
the braided rope.
4. In twisted and plaited
rope, the main
component consisting of
an ordered assemblage
of yarns.
STRAND IRREGULARITY fabrics In textiles, variation
in a property along a
strand.
In textiles, variation in a
property along a strand.
STRAW fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A broad classification
of plant fibres
obtained from stems,
stalks, leaves, bark,
etc.
A broad classification of
plant fibres obtained
from stems, stalks,
leaves, bark, etc. they
are braided, plaited or
woven into hats, shoes,
and mats.
925
Word Category Short description Description
STRAW COTTON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Cotton thread that
has been heavily
sized with starch.
Cotton thread that has
been heavily sized with
starch. A wiry, harsh feel
makes the thread straw-
like and therefore
suitable for making
straw-like products
STRAYING END defects Fabric defect, major,
in warp knit fabric
Fabric defect, major, in
warp knit fabric, caused
by an end of yarn
breaking and the loose
end straying and being
knit irregularly into
another area
STREAK defects An extended
unintentional stripe of
narrow width, often a
single yarn.
Fabric defect.
1. An extended
unintentional stripe of
narrow width, often a
single yarn.
2. A stain (rust, oil, dye,
grease, soap, etc.)
extended as an irregular
stripe in the cloth.
STREAK STITCH seams,
stitches
A stitch used to
produce open veins
of leaves in
handmade lace.
A stitch used to produce
open veins of leaves in
handmade lace.
STREAKED WARP defects Fabric defect. It
occurs when one of
the section of the
warp, as it creeled
was not under proper
tension or was of
incorrect shade.
Fabric defect. It occurs
when one of the section
of the warp, as it creeled
was not under proper
tension or was of
incorrect shade. When
the fabric is dyed, this
defect becomes much
more discernible.
STRENGTH general The property of a
material that resists
deformation induced
by external forces.
The property of a
material that resists
deformation induced by
external forces.
(Compare with Force.)
STRENGTH COUNT
PRODUCT
general See Break Factor. See Break Factor.
STRENGTH, AT BREAK general See Breaking
strength.
See Breaking strength.
STRESS general The resistance to
deformation
The resistance to
deformation developed
926
Word Category Short description Description
developed within
material subjected to
an external force.
within material subjected
to an external force.
STRETCH general Elongation of fibre,
yarn or fabric by
tension.
1. Elongation of fibre,
yarn or fabric by tension.
2. To extend in length or
width by tension, e.g. to
stretch piece goods in
tentering.
STRETCH FABRIC,
WOVEN
fabrics See Woven Stretch
Fabric.
See Woven Stretch
Fabric.
STRETCH FABRICS fabrics All knitted fabrics and
many woven fabrics
with conventional
yarns have small but
varying degree of
stretch and elastic
recovery.
All knitted fabrics and
many woven fabrics with
conventional yarns have
small but varying degree
of stretch and elastic
recovery. Stretch-fabrics,
however, stretch
considerably and recover
immediately or within a
short time. This
characteristic is achieved
by the use of elastomeric
fibres, stretch yarns or
finishing treatments. Gar-
ments made from stretch
fabric are comfortable, fit
without pressure and
keep their shape.
Cotton fabrics may be
given stretch properties
in three ways:
1. By the use of stretch
cotton yarns, made by
the twist-set-untwist
method similar to that
used for synthetic fibres.
Preliminary chemical
treatment is necessary.
2. By the use of torque or
lively yarns in certain
fabric construction
imparts stretch.
3. By the use of yarn that
has been mercerised
under slack conditions.
Woollen clothes may be
given stretch properties
927
Word Category Short description Description
in three ways:
1. By the use of stretch
yarns method; two-ply
yarns are given the
twist-set-untwist
treatment.
2. By the production of
yarn crimp in weaving,
e.g. for ski trousers with
warp stretch, two warps
are used, one a worsted
yarn, the other a cotton
one held under tension.
After being woven, the
cloth is set, the cotton is
re-moved and a stretch
develops.
3. By the use of finishing
treatment. To produce a
weft stretch, the cloth is
chemically set with the
warp under tension. On
drying the crimp passes
from the warp to the
weft. This method,
referred to as crimp
development and
interchange, has been
used for sports and
womens form-fitting
trousers.
STRETCH SPINNING processes,
operations
A special method of
spinning rayon.
A special method of
spinning rayon. The
stretched filaments are
spun while moist and
before final coagulation.
This gives the filament,
increased strength.
STRETCH TOWELLING fabrics Knit fabric with short
loop pile to give it a
thin terry towelling
appearance on the
right side.
Knit fabric with short loop
pile to give it a thin terry
towelling appearance on
the right side. It is
produced in plain colours
and in patterns and
stripes. Made from
cotton and polyamide, it
has a great deal of
stretch. Very useful for
baby clothes, childrens
928
Word Category Short description Description
clothes, sports outfits,
jump suits, bathrobes,
etc. See also Pile knit.
STRETCH YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A generic term for
thermoplastic
filament or spun
yarns
A generic term for
thermoplastic filament or
spun yarns having a high
degree of potential
elastic stretch and rapid
recovery, and
characterised by a high
degree of yarn curl. Yarn
capable of being
stretched, but having
rapid recovery on
relaxation. See also Bulk
Yarn.
STRETCHED FILLING defects See Tight Pick. See Tight Pick.
STRIKE-OFF processes,
operations
In printing, sample
prints made to prove
the accuracy of print-
screens/rollers.
In printing, sample prints
made to prove the
accuracy of print-
screens/rollers.
STRING general A small cord, larger
than thread and
smaller than rope
A small cord, larger than
thread and smaller than
rope, e.g. a shoestring,
lacing, etc. used mainly
for tying or fastening
objects.
STRING WARP MACHINE apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See under Lace
Machines.
See under Lace
Machines.
STRINGER accessories In zippers, the tape,
bead, and element
assembly that
constitutes one side
of a chain
In zippers, the tape,
bead, and element
assembly that constitutes
one side of a chain, i.e.
the textile tape, to which
is attached, a row of
metal or plastic members
which may or may not be
interconnected, designed
to in-terlock with another
row similarly attached to
another tape.
STRINGY SELVEDGE defects See Slack Selvedge. See Slack Selvedge.
STRIP BACKS defects See Broken
filaments.
See Broken filaments.
STRIP TEST processes,
operations
A method of
measuring the
A method of measuring
the breaking strength of
929
Word Category Short description Description
breaking strength of
fabric
fabric. The test specimen
used in strip form
STRIPE fabrics A line or narrow band
in a fabric
A line or narrow band in
a fabric produced by
using different colour,
weave, or raw material.
STRIPE YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A type of fancy yarn. A type of fancy yarn. A
yarn that contains
elongated knops. See
also Knop Yarn. It can be
made (i) as a knop with a
moving knopping bar to
spread the surplus
thread or knop, or (ii) by
alternate fast and slow
delivery of one or more
of its component threads
and a constant rate of
delivery of the base
threads. The threads join
below a stationary bar to
form the intermittent
stripes.
STRIPINESS defects Defect in knitted
fabric. Lengthways
areas, of several
wales width,
appearing darker in
colour from normal
fabric
Defect in knitted fabric.
Lengthways areas, of
several wales width,
appearing darker in
colour from normal
fabric. This is mostly
caused by wale-
consolidation or
distortion arising from
uneven width tension
during knitting that is
subsequently
accentuated by dyeing
and finishing, or from
poor width control during
open-width processing
STRIPPING processes,
operations
The removal of
colour from dyed
textile with the use of
chemicals.
1. The removal of colour
from dyed textile with the
use of chemicals.
2. The removal of sericin
from the silk.
3. The removal of short
fibres and waste
STRONG WOOL fibers,
filaments,
Extra-long staple
wool from any wool
A term with several
meanings, including:
930
Word Category Short description Description
yarns clip 1. Extra-long staple wool
from any wool clip
2. An Australian term for
crossbred sheep, and
3. The description of
British lustre wools.
STRUCTURAL DESIGN fabrics See under Design See under Design
STRUSA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Frisons. See Frisons.
STT YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See Self-twist
Twisted Yarn.
See Self-twist Twisted
Yarn.
STUBBLE garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
In shorn floor
covering, the portion
of the pile that
remains after
shearing.
In shorn floor covering,
the portion of the pile
that remains after
shearing.
STUBBLE HEIGHT garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
The distance the
stubble extends
above the backing
fabric.
The distance the stubble
extends above the
backing fabric. See
Stubble.
STUD BREAKER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
See Breaking
Machine.
See Breaking Machine.
STUFF fabrics An old eighteenth-
century word used to
describe any fabric
containing worsted
yarns.
An old eighteenth-
century word used to
describe any fabric
containing worsted
yarns.
STUFFER YARN fabrics See Wadding yarn. See Wadding yarn.
STUFFER-BOX
TEXTURING
processes,
operations
See under Textured
Yarn.
See under Textured
Yarn.
STYLE general A characteristic
mode of design,
construction, texture,
etc.
A characteristic mode of
design, construction,
texture, etc. in either a
household or garment
textile
SUBLIMATION defects Undesirable transfer
of colour from
synthetic fibres dyed
with low molecular
weight disperse dyes
Undesirable transfer of
colour from synthetic
fibres dyed with low
molecular weight
disperse dyes, on
application of heat, to
adjacent fibres which,
may be white or another
shade. However, it is to
931
Word Category Short description Description
be noted that thermofix
dyeing methods depend
on the phenomenon of
sublimation
SUBLIMATION PRINTING processes,
operations
A form of transfer
printing employing
dyes
A form of transfer
printing employing dyes
that sublime readily and
have substantivity for the
substrate to which they
are applied.
SUBSTANTIVE DYES seams,
stitches
See Direct Dyes. See Direct Dyes.
SUBSTRATE general In textiles, a fibre,
fibre assembly, yarn,
fabric or film to which
another material is
applied
In textiles, a fibre, fibre
assembly, yarn, fabric or
film to which another
material is applied
SUEDE fabrics The correct term is
suede leather,
because it is now
usually calfskin
treated on the inside
to give it a napped or
sueded finish.
The correct term is
suede leather, because it
is now usually calfskin
treated on the inside to
give it a napped or
sueded finish. Is smooth
and attractive and can be
dyed in a variety of
fashion colours. Used for
a wide range of
garments.
SUEDE FABRIC fabrics There is a wide
variety of simulated
suede or suede
fabrics.
There is a wide variety of
simulated suede or
suede fabrics. Most
types are fairly
expensive, although the
advantage over real
suede is that they do not
take on permanent
creases or show wear
easily, and most of them
are washable. The
method of manufacture
varies and so does the
fibre content. Suede
fabrics are suitable for
dresses, jackets for men
and women, skirts,
childrens clothes, sports
and leisure outfits.
SUINT fibers, Excretion from sweat Excretion from sweat
932
Word Category Short description Description
filaments,
yarns
glands of sheep,
which is deposited on
wool fibres.
glands of sheep, which is
deposited on wool fibres.
SUITING LACE fabrics Term used to
describe any type of
firm lace
Term used to describe
any type of firm lace
which would be suitable
and durable for formal
garments such as
jackets and skirts. The
yarns are usually thick
matt and firm, such as
cotton and viscose. The
motifs or designs are
deliberately close
together to provide
stability and to prevent
the fabric from being too
see-through.
SULPHUR FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured fibre
in which the fibre-
forming substance is
a long chain
synthetic
polysulphide
A manufactured fibre in
which the fibre-forming
substance is a long chain
synthetic polysulphide in
which at least 85 % of
the sulphide (-S-)
linkages are attached
directly to two aromatic
rings
SULPHURISING processes,
operations
Bleaching wools and
silks by means of
sulphur.
Bleaching wools and
silks by means of
sulphur.
SUNFAST fabrics Dyed fabrics, which
do not change colour
under normal
exposure to sunlight
or under standard
tests with the fade-o-
meter. T
Dyed fabrics, which do
not change colour under
normal exposure to
sunlight or under
standard tests with the
fade-o-meter. There are
very few colours which
can be truly called really
sunfast.
SUNLIGHT RESISTANCE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
All fibres are affected
by prolonged
exposure to sunlight
in varying degrees.
All fibres are affected by
prolonged exposure to
sunlight in varying
degrees. The gradual
damage caused by the
ultraviolet rays of the sun
may be very mild and
negligible in many fibres,
but on a few fibres it can
933
Word Category Short description Description
be severe.
SUNN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A bast fibre obtained
from the plant
crotolaria juncea.
A bast fibre obtained
from the plant crotolaria
juncea.
SUNRAY PLEATS garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Pleats radiating from
a single point, usually
the centre of full
circular skirts.
Pleats radiating from a
single point, usually the
centre of full circular
skirts.
SUPER COP apparatus,
equipage,
tools,
A wooden or plastic
conical base on
which weft is wound
for use in a shuttle
loom.
1. A wooden or plastic
conical base on which
weft is wound for use in
a shuttle loom.
2. The weft package
produced by winding
yarn onto the base
described above.
SUPER-DULL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
See under Delustred See under Delustred
SUPERFINE WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The finest, most
expensive wools for
mens suiting and
luxury knitwear.
The finest, most
expensive wools for
mens suiting and luxury
knitwear. Mostly from
Australian Saxon Merino
sheep.
SUPERWASH WOOL general This label, attached
to wool fabrics,
garments and hand
knitting yarns,
indicates that the
product will not
shrink when machine
washed as instructed
on the label.
This label, attached to
wool fabrics, garments
and hand knitting yarns,
indicates that the product
will not shrink when
machine washed as
instructed on the label. In
addition, the dye will not
bleed or stain other
articles being washed.
Superwash is a
trademark promoted by
the International Wool
Secretariat. The
treatment, a reduction of
the tendency of fibre to
bond to fibre, is applied
mainly to worsted yarns,
although those for
woollen yarns are being
developed.
SUPIMA fibers, Trade mark for a Trade mark for a
934
Word Category Short description Description
filaments,
yarns
superior type of high
quality, extra-long-
staple, Amercan-
Egyptian cotton
superior type of high
quality, extra-long-staple,
Amercan-Egyptian cotton
SUPPORTED NEEDLED
FELT
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A textile structure
(felt, needled,
unsupported)
A textile structure (felt,
needled, unsupported) in
combination with a
woven, knitted, or
stitched textile fabric.
SUPPRESSION processes,
operations
The creation of
shape by removal of
a calculated amount
of fabric
The creation of shape by
removal of a calculated
amount of fabric from the
surface area of the
garment, especially in
womens wear.
SURAH fabrics The name given
originally to a fine
soft twill weave silk
fabric used for
dresses, scarves and
head squares in plain
or printed styles.
The name given
originally to a fine soft
twill weave silk fabric
used for dresses,
scarves and head
squares in plain or
printed styles. Soft twill
fabric made from
filament yarns, including
silk, polyester, acetate,
triacetate. The usual twill
used is 2/2 which gives
the fabric a fine
appearance. Surah dress
fabrics are made in
cellulose acetate and
triacetate fibres and
these have a remarkably
silk-like handle. Is always
a printed shiny fabric. It
is not hard-wearing, and
tends to develop
slippage at seams and
points of strain, and
creases easily. Used for
loose dresses, blouses,
scarves, ties and as a
lining fabric. Slippery and
will fray readily.
SURFACE CONTOUR fabrics The divergence of a
surface from
planeness rough
(high) to smooth
The divergence of a
surface from planeness
rough (high) to smooth
(low). See Hand of
935
Word Category Short description Description
(low). fabric.
SURFACE FRICTION fabrics Resistance to
slipping offered by
surface harsh (high)
to slippery (low).
Resistance to slipping
offered by surface harsh
(high) to slippery (low).
See Hand of fabric.
SURFACE PRINTING processes,
operations
A printing method in
which the pattern is
raised in relief above
the surface of the
printing device.
A printing method in
which the pattern is
raised in relief above the
surface of the printing
device. Has a limited use
in textiles. Also called
relief printing, kiss
printing
SURFACE ROLLER
PRINTING
processes,
operations
Rotary printing from
cylinders patterned in
relief
Rotary printing from
cylinders patterned in
relief; it was used for
traditional chintz to give
a hand-block effect, but
is now used only in
specialist firms and in the
wallpaper industry.
SURFACE WATER
ABSORPTION BY
FABRIC
processes,
operations
The process of
removing liquid water
from a surface such
as human skin,
dishes, or furniture.
The process of removing
liquid water from a
surface such as human
skin, dishes, or furniture.
SURFACE WEAVE fabrics By employing an
extra yarn, designs
can be woven into
cloth while the basic
fabric is being
woven.
By employing an extra
yarn, designs can be
woven into cloth while
the basic fabric is being
woven. A lappet design
is produces by using
needles carrying warp
yarn. This yarn, firmly
fastened in the fabric as
each design is finished,
is floated on the back to
the next design and after
weaving the float is cut.
Another surface weave is
the swivel design, which
is produced by using
shuttles with extra weft
yarn which is cut
automatically after each
design is woven.
SURGICAL GAUZE fabrics A bleached and
sterilized cheesecloth
A bleached and sterilized
cheesecloth used in
936
Word Category Short description Description
used in surgery. surgery.
SUSPENDER WEB accessories See Brace web. See Brace web.
SUSURRUS general A rustling sound, as
of silk taffeta.
A rustling sound, as of
silk taffeta.
SUTURE LINE processes,
operations
A line within weft
knitted fabric at
which the wales are
caused to change
direction collectively
A line within weft knitted
fabric at which the wales
are caused to change
direction collectively. It is
formed either by knitting
more loops in certain
wales than in others and
or during the knitting of
pouches.
SWAB garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A kind of mop,
especially a rope
mop, that is used
aboard ships.
A kind of mop, especially
a rope mop, that is used
aboard ships.
SWADDLE fabrics A fabric used for a
bandage or band
A fabric used for a
bandage or band
SWANSDOWN fabrics,
accessories
Heavily napped
cotton fabric
1. Heavily napped cotton
fabric. Highly
inflammable. Used for
nightwear.
2. A narrow fuzzy
decoration originally
made from the downy
breast feathers of the
swan, but now more
often made from
synthetic fibres. Used to
trim nightwear, evening
gowns
SWATCH general A bunch of collection
of sample cuttings of
materials
A bunch of collection of
sample cuttings of
materials used to
indicate their
representative
characteristics.
SWEAL MARK defects See under Swealing. See under Swealing.
SWEALING processes,
operations,
defects
Migration of dye into
the angles of folds
and creases during
dyeing.
1. Migration of dye into
the angles of folds and
creases during dyeing.
2. Fabric defect. Partial
transfer of colour, dirt or
grease into the
surrounding fabric,
caused by unsatisfactory
937
Word Category Short description Description
removal of stains by
hand from a fabric when
using an aqueous
solvent treatment.
The resulting mark is
frequently referred to as
a sweal mark, halo or
ring
SWEATSHIRT FABRIC fabrics Acrylic or cotton knit
fabric with a bumpy
fleecy back in a
variety of plain
colours and striped
designs.
Acrylic or cotton knit
fabric with a bumpy
fleecy back in a variety of
plain colours and striped
designs. The yarns used
are often marled. Some
fabrics are quite thin; all
stretch easily and lose
their shape. Not
hardwearing. Used for
sports and leisure
clothes.
SWEEPING WASTE general The sweeping from
the floors of the
various rooms in the
mill.
The sweeping from the
floors of the various
rooms in the mill. This is
usually of a short and
fluffy character.
SWELL RATIO fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Bulge
Ratio. In man-made
fibre extrusion, the
ratio of the maximum
diamter of the
extrudate as the
solution of melt
emerges from the
spinneret to the
orifice diameter.
Also called Bulge Ratio.
In man-made fibre
extrusion, the ratio of the
maximum diamter of the
extrudate as the solution
of melt emerges from the
spinneret to the orifice
diameter. The
phenomenon is known
as Die swell.
SWELLED EDGES seams,
stitches
An effect achieved by
a row of stitching,
An effect achieved by a
row of stitching, sewn at
a specific and regular
distance from the
finished edge of a
garment, usually
between 1/2 and 2 cm.
SWIFT apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The revolving frame
onto which a hank is
mounted when it is
unwound.
The revolving frame onto
which a hank is mounted
when it is unwound. Also
called Rice.
SWIMMING-TUB apparatus,
equipage,
In printing, a wooden
tub, half-filled with
In printing, a wooden tub,
half-filled with thickening
938
Word Category Short description Description
tools thickening or old dye-
paste to give
resilience, over which
is stretched a
waterproof covering
and on which is
resting the sieve - a
drum stretched over
tightly with woollen
cloth.
or old dye-paste to give
resilience, over which is
stretched a waterproof
covering and on which is
resting the sieve - a
drum stretched over
tightly with woollen cloth.
The colour is spread on
to the sieve and the
block pressed against it
before printing.
SWIMWEAR garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Textile garments
intended for wear in
fresh, chlorinated, or
salt water.
Textile garments
intended for wear in
fresh, chlorinated, or salt
water.
SWING NEEDLE
MACHINE
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A sewing machine,
with a needle bar
which alternates
laterally during
sewing to produce a
zigzag stitch.
A sewing machine, with
a needle bar which
alternates laterally during
sewing to produce a
zigzag stitch.
SWISS fabrics See Dotted Swiss. See Dotted Swiss.
SWISS BAR apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The middle guide
bar, in a lace
furnishing machine,
equipped with three
guide bars.
The middle guide bar, in
a lace furnishing
machine, equipped with
three guide bars. It is
usually clothed with
threads from the bottom
spool board.
SWISS DOUBLE PIQU fabrics See under Double
piqu
See under Double piqu
SWISS LACE fabrics A furnishing lace
obtained by
contrasting two
densities of clothing.
A furnishing lace
obtained by contrasting
two densities of clothing.
The lighter densities
consist of V-ties made
from the Swiss bar
between two or more
pillars. The heavy
density is made from the
back bar in a
complementary class of
work.
SWISS RIB fabrics See under Rib
Fabric, Weft-knitted.
See under Rib Fabric,
Weft-knitted.
SWISSING processes,
operations
A calendering
operation for cotton
A calendering operation
for cotton fabrics which
939
Word Category Short description Description
fabrics which
compresses fabric to
produce a smooth,
compact appearance
with moderate lustre
compresses fabric to
produce a smooth,
compact appearance
with moderate lustre. Hot
or cold rollers are used.
SWIVEL LOOM apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A loom for narrow
fabrics such as
ribbons and tapes,
the picking being
done by a special
type of small shuttle
controlled by a swivel
A loom for narrow fabrics
such as ribbons and
tapes, the picking being
done by a special type of
small shuttle controlled
by a swivel
SWIVEL WEAVING fabrics A fabric in which
figure is achieved by
the introduction of
additional weft
threads into a base
fabric to produce
small clipped woven-
in spot effects.
A fabric in which figure is
achieved by the
introduction of additional
weft threads into a base
fabric to produce small
clipped woven-in spot
effects. The figuring yarn
is fed from a series of
small shuttles mounted
over the top of the
weaving surface.
SYDDO RAGS garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
See Siddo rags See Siddo rags
SYNTHESIZED FIBRES fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibres made from
chemicals that were
never fibrous in
character
Fibres made from
chemicals that were
never fibrous in
character
SYNTHETIC FELT fabrics A non-woven fabric,
fairly thin but with an
interesting texture
A non-woven fabric, fairly
thin but with an
interesting texture. It
dyes well and is
available in a range of
bright clear colours. It
has no grain but it does
not stretch. Used for
decoration, appliqu,
etc., and such things as
fancy dress and
theatrical costumes.
SYNTHETIC FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Term used loosely
for all man-made
fibres.
Term used loosely for all
man-made fibres. Strictly
the term includes only
textile fibres made by
chemical synthesis, such
as nylon, rayon, saran,
940
Word Category Short description Description
etc. See also Fibre.
SYSTEMATIC SAMPLING processes,
operations
The process of
selecting units in a
sample in
accordance with a
specific order or
location in time or
space or both.
The process of selecting
units in a sample in
accordance with a
specific order or location
in time or space or both.

T

Word Category Short description Description
T-CLOTH I A coarse, plain weave
cotton cloth made
with approximately
the same number of
ends and picks per
square inch and
heavily sized.
A coarse, plain weave
cotton cloth made with
approximately the
same number of ends
and picks per square
inch and heavily sized.
Originally produced in
Great Britain and
exported in the loom
state to the Orient and
other markets. The
name was derived from
the mark T of the
original ex-porters.
T-SHIRT z A simple style of short
sleeve shirt, made
from cut and sewn
knitted fabric.
A simple style of short
sleeve shirt, made from
cut and sewn knitted
fabric.
T.O.T. v See Twist on twist. See Twist on twist.
T.P.I. v See Turns per inch See Turns per inch
TAB fabrics The starting point of a
weave
The starting point of a
weave; the term
derived from Tabby
when used in relation
to plain weave.
TABARET I A finely woven, yarn-
dyed furnishing fabric
A finely woven, yarn-
dyed furnishing fabric
that has alternate warp
stripes of satin and
plain weave. Also
called Tabourette.
TABBY I See Plain weave. 1. See Plain weave.
2. A rich silk velvet.
941
Word Category Short description Description
3. A watered effect
produced on by
passing the material
between engraved
rollers.
TABER F A machine for testing
the abrasion
resistance of fabrics.
A machine for testing
the abrasion resistance
of fabrics.
TABLE COVERINGS z Fabrics of cotton,
linen, rayon,
synthetics and blends
are used to cover
tables.
Fabrics of cotton, linen,
rayon, synthetics and
blends are used to
cover tables. Crash,
damask, organdy,
checked gingham,
dobbies, etc. are some
of the main fabric types
used.
TABLE FELT z See Table padding. See Table padding.
TABLE LINEN garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Any cloth, regardless
of fibre content
Any cloth, regardless of
fibre content, that is
suitable for a table
covering.
TABLE PADDING z Also called table felt.
A soft cotton fabric
napped on both sides
or quilted.
Also called table felt.
A soft cotton fabric
napped on both sides
or quilted. Used as
silence cloth.
TABLET WEAVING I A method of making
woven plain or
patterned narrow
fabrics.
A method of making
woven plain or
patterned narrow
fabrics. The warp shed
is controlled by tablets
made of thin, stiff
material, e.g.
cardboard, plastic,
bone, etc. Tablets are
usually about 5 cm to
10 cm square, although
other shapes, e.g.
triangles, hexagons,
etc., are also used.
Each tablet has a hole
at each corner through
the warp yarns are
threaded. Rotating the
tablets controls the rise
and fall of the warp
yarns
942
Word Category Short description Description
TABOURETTE I See Tabaret See Tabaret
TABS fabrics The ends of a fabric
less than one yard
length
The ends of a fabric
less than one yard
length
TACK v to adhere at the area
of contact.
Rubber or rubber
compounds have the
property, that causes
two layers of these
materials, when
pressed together, to
adhere at the area of
contact.
TACKING ; STITCH. Machine or
hand stitching,
sometimes decorative
to reinforce parts of a
garment. See Bar
Tack.
1. STITCH. Machine or
hand stitching,
sometimes decorative
to reinforce parts of a
garment. See Bar
Tack.
It is to be noted that in
some sections of the
industry, this term is
used to mean the same
as Basting.
2. IN PROCESSING.
Sewing together of the
two selvedges of a
fabric that has been
folded length-wise, with
the face side in. This is
done to encourage
ballooning, and thereby
reduce rope mark-ing
during wet processing
and also to protect the
face of the fabric in
other finishing
operations. It helps to
prevent wrinkles, and
selvedge curling.
Sometimes also called
Bagging.
TACKING CUT I Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Small
holes or cuts along the
selvedge of the cloth,
caused by holes
remaining after fabric
has been tacked
(sewn) along edges to
943
Word Category Short description Description
protect face of cloth
during wet finishing.
TACKSPUN FABRIC fabrics A material made from
a polymer film with
backing substrate.
A material made from a
polymer film with
backing substrate. The
film is melted by a
roller, to which it
adheres. As the film
and roller separate a
fibrous pile is formed.
TACTEL v A new type of filament
nylon yarn.
A new type of filament
nylon yarn. It is
particularly suitable for
making woven and
knitted fabrics for
sportswear.
TADPOLE PONGE I An ponge made with
several plain ends
alternating with a loop
yarn in the warp and
plain weft
An ponge made with
several plain ends
alternating with a loop
yarn in the warp and
plain weft. The loops
are scattered over the
face.
TAFFETA fabrics Taffeta is used as a
dress blouse fabric or
as a lining and in
certain types of
lingerie.
Originally taffeta was a
smooth, fine, close,
plain-weave, fabric
made from even yarns
of shiny filament,
usually silk of light or
medium weight. The
fabric had a sheen and
the stiff handle
produced a rustling
noise when worn as a
garment. It was a fairly
square fabric so that an
even surface was
presented. However,
increasing quantities of
taffeta are now made
which are not square
and they have, more
closely set warp yarns
than weft yarns and
this produces a faint rib
effect across the fabric.
Though originally a silk
fabric, now more likely
944
Word Category Short description Description
to be composed of
acetate, triacetate,
nylon or blends of
these. A stiff finish is
usually given to the
fabric to produce the
authentic rustle. It is
characteristically crisp
with a faint weft-way rib
and is usually plain
coloured but can be
printed. It is not hard-
wearing, so its use is
confined to evening
wear, stiff petticoats,
lampshades and
drapes, and small
items such as
cummerbunds, artificial
flowers, evening bags,
stage costumes and
linings. Taffeta is used
as a dress blouse
fabric or as a lining and
in certain types of
lingerie.
TAFFETA GLAC I A changeable taffeta
with a high lustre
made with a different
colour in warp and
weft.
A changeable taffeta
with a high lustre made
with a different colour
in warp and weft.
TAFFETA METALLIQUE I A taffeta with a
metallic colour effect
given in the finish.
A taffeta with a metallic
colour effect given in
the finish.
TAFFETA RIBBON w A ribbon of
continuous filament
yarn in plain weave
A ribbon of continuous
filament yarn in plain
weave, with a relatively
high warp density and
a very fine, almost
imperceptible rib,
generally with a
selvedge of contrasting
weave.
TAFFETALINE I A plain weave fabric
made of waste silk,
finished in imitation of
taffeta.
A plain weave fabric
made of waste silk,
finished in imitation of
taffeta. Made in various
qualities. Mainly used
945
Word Category Short description Description
for lining dress skirts.
Also called tamtine
TAFFETINE fabrics A lightweight, plain
weave, slightly
stiffened fabric
A lightweight, plain
weave, slightly
stiffened fabric made
with closely spaced
organzine warp and
coarser cotton, linen or
silk wefts. Used for
linings.
TAFFETIZED FABRICS I A range of cotton
fabrics given a
permanent partially
glazed surface finish
A range of cotton
fabrics given a
permanent partially
glazed surface finish,
which suggests taffeta.
TAFFETIZED FINISH processes,
operations
A non-permanent
crisp finish
A non-permanent crisp
finish applied to fabrics
to give a rustle similar
to taffeta.
TAG CLOTH I See Label cloth. See Label cloth.
TAIL v A length of yarn
wound onto a cheese
or cone at the
commencement of
winding that
A length of yarn wound
onto a cheese or cone
at the commencement
of winding that
protrudes from the
main build-up of yarn
and can later be
attached to the free
end yarn of a second
package during
magazine creeling.
TAIL END I The end of a piece of
a fabric, where that
piece is finished on
the loom.
The end of a piece of a
fabric, where that piece
is finished on the loom.
Opposite of head end.
TAILED COTTON v A stringy cotton
resulting from the
ginning of cotton
when it is too damp.
A stringy cotton
resulting from the
ginning of cotton when
it is too damp.
TAILING defects Dyeing defect. Dyeing defect. A
gradual change in
colour along a length of
material to which
colorant has been
applied by padding or
other continuous
techniques.
946
Word Category Short description Description
TAILORS CHALK w Dyeing defect. Also called Clay. A
piece of flat pipeclay,
either square or
triangular in shape,
used for making
marking cloth
TAILORS TACKS Same as Mark-stitch Same as Mark-stitch
TAILORS TWIST v A coarse, strong silk
sewing thread used
by tailors.
A coarse, strong silk
sewing thread used by
tailors.
TAK DYEING Continuous dyeing
process for carpets.
Continuous dyeing
process for carpets.
The main steps of the
process are: (a) carpet
wetted; (b) dye and
auxiliary chemicals
applied; (c) dye fixed in
festoon steamer; (d)
carpet washed and
dried in one pass
through the carpet
drying range
TAKE DOWN F A device on a knitting
machine that ensures
that fabric is removed
from the knitting
machine
A device on a knitting
machine that ensures
that fabric is removed
from the knitting
machine at a constant
linear rate or at a
constant tension.
TAKE-IN MACHINE F See Pull-in machine. See Pull-in machine.
TAKE-UP fabrics Also called
Contraction. The
difference in distance
between two points in
a yarn
Also called
Contraction. The
difference in distance
between two points in a
yarn as it lies in a fabric
and the same two
points after the yarn
has been removed
from the fabric and
straightened under
specified tension,
expressed as a
percentage of the
straightened length.
TAMBOUR F A double hoop used
to hold fabric for
embroidering.
A double hoop used to
hold fabric for
embroidering. The
947
Word Category Short description Description
fabric is stretched over
the inside hoop and
held securely in place
by the second hoop
TAMBOUR LACE A piece of net is
stretched on a frame
and the yarn is drawn
by a hooked or
tambour needle
through the meshes
of the net.
A piece of net is
stretched on a frame
and the yarn is drawn
by a hooked or
tambour needle
through the meshes of
the net. Tambour work
is of Eastern origin and
the tambour is derived
from the drum or
tambourine-shaped
form on which the work
is done. In the strictest
sense of the word, it is
not the lace, but
embroidery. May be
made by hand or
machine.
TAMISE I Similar to
Marquisette.
Similar to Marquisette.
TANGLE v A mass of fibre, raw
stock, yarn, etc
A mass of fibre, raw
stock, yarn, etc
TANGLE LACED FABRIC I In formed fabrics, the
bonding may be done
by tangling the fibres
rather than by
stitching or spot
binding.
In formed fabrics, the
bonding may be done
by tangling the fibres
rather than by stitching
or spot binding.
TANGLING processes,
operations
An entangled
condition of two or
more layers of tow
An entangled condition
of two or more layers of
tow which have
become intertwined
and withdrawn in that
state. May shake out or
become disengaged
before it reaches the
first banding jet or its
guide; if not, a break
will occur. Also called
Snarl and Pull-
TAPA CLOTH I Non-woven cloth,
made of beaten bark
fibres of the mulberry
tree.
Non-woven cloth,
made of beaten bark
fibres of the mulberry
tree. Layers of
948
Word Category Short description Description
cleansed bark are
beaten with mallets into
a web, which may be
made as fine as muslin
or tough and leathery.
It is easily bleached,
dyed and printed.
Excellent printed
designs are applied by
primitive means. It
does serve for apparel
and decorative use
among the natives of
the Pacific Islands.
Usage mostly limited to
the Pacific Islands
TAPE I A single ply narrow
fabric, usually of
plain-weave,
sometimes knitted,
used in non-load
bearing applications
or reinforcing of
fabrics to resist wear
and deformation.
1. A single ply narrow
fabric, usually of plain-
weave, sometimes
knitted, used in non-
load bearing
applications or
reinforcing of fabrics to
resist wear and
deformation. See also
Webbing.
2. A long narrow flat
structure with textile-
like properties made
from thermoplastic
polymer, pa-per, or
other appropriate
material.
TAPE ENDS w In zippers, the tape
extending beyond the
stops at either or both
ends of the stringers.
In zippers, the tape
extending beyond the
stops at either or both
ends of the stringers.
TAPE RUCHE w See under Ruche. See under Ruche.
TAPE SELVEDGE I A closely woven,
tape-like selvedge
A closely woven, tape-
like selvedge, which
consists of two or more
additional threads
woven in basket
weave, differing in
construction and
appearance from the
body of the fabric. This
gives the fabric, added
949
Word Category Short description Description
strength and also help
resist curling
TAPE-FINISHED HEM z A raw edge of a
garment or household
textile that is finished
by attaching and
stitching a seam
A raw edge of a
garment or household
textile that is finished
by attaching and
stitching a seam,-
binding tape to cover
the raw edge.
TAPED ENDS t Weaving defect Weaving defect. Two
or more warp yarns
drawn through the
healds and reed as one
as a result of being
stuck together after
sizing process.
TAPED SEAM A seam which
includes straight tape.
A seam which includes
straight tape. Normally
used to prevent
stretching and for
strength.
TAPERED CONES v See under Biconical
package.
See under Biconical
package.
TAPESTRY fabrics Highly ornamental
fabric, woven on a
J acquard loom, which
has an embroidered
look.
Highly ornamental
fabric, woven on a
J acquard loom, which
has an embroidered
look. Cotton and
worsted yarns are used
in many colors, usually
showing a picture. A
heavy fabric used
upholstery, curtains
and bedspreads.
Tapestry sometimes
comes into fashion for
clothes and is then
made lighter in weight.
TAPESTRY CARPET z A patterned carpet
woven by the single
pile Wilton process, in
which a warp, printed
before weaving, is
used to produce the
design.
A patterned carpet
woven by the single
pile Wilton process, in
which a warp, printed
before weaving, is
used to produce the
design. When the pile
is cut, the carpet is
known as tapestry
velvet.
950
Word Category Short description Description
TAPESTRY VELVET
CARPET
z A cut-pile carpet
woven from a printed-
pile warp or single
frame of yarn.
A cut-pile carpet woven
from a printed-pile
warp or single frame of
yarn. It was traditionally
woven on a tapestry
carpet loom with
bladed wires.
TAPESTRY WEAVE I A construction in
which wefts are
battened so closely as
to conceal the warps.
A construction in which
wefts are battened so
closely as to conceal
the warps. Used
especially in Navajo
weaving.
TAPPA CLOTH fabrics A white fabric made
by beating together
the bast or bark of the
paper mulberry tree.
A white fabric made by
beating together the
bast or bark of the
paper mulberry tree.
This is done by hand
by the natives of the
Marquesas Islands.
The colour of tappa
cloth can be fast when
dyed with vegetable
dyestuffs.
TAPPET FABRIC fabrics Fabric of a simple
weave structure
Fabric of a simple
weave structure that
may be woven on a
cam or tappet loom.
TARE o A deduction from the
weight of
merchandise plus
container, made in
allowance for the
weight of the
container.
1. A deduction from the
weight of merchandise
plus container, made in
allowance for the
weight of the container.
2. To yield a specified
proportion or degree of
wool top over noil, as,
this wool tares well.
TARLATAN fabrics An open, plain-weave
coarse cotton with a
starched finish,
resembling coarse
net.
An open, plain-weave
coarse cotton with a
starched finish,
resembling coarse net.
Highly inflammable.
Used in millinery and
for stiffening belts as
well as for extra stiff
petticoats or bustle
effects. Often used for
stage costumes.
951
Word Category Short description Description
TARNISH PREVENTION
FABRIC
I Chemically treated,
napped cloth used to
wrap silver
Chemically treated,
napped cloth used to
wrap silver and to line
silver chests, to protect
silver from oxidising.
TARNISH RESISTANT
FLANNEL
I Flannel dyed with
colours free from
sulphur and other
substances that
possess a tendency
to tarnish silver and
impregnated with
chemicals that absorb
sulphur fumes.
Flannel dyed with
colours free from
sulphur and other
substances that
possess a tendency to
tarnish silver and
impregnated with
chemicals that absorb
sulphur fumes. Used to
wrap silver and to line
silver chests.
TARPAULIN fabrics A general term for
heavy waterproof
canvas fabric, used
as protective cover for
cargo, etc.
A general term for
heavy waterproof
canvas fabric, used as
protective cover for
cargo, etc. from
weather. Originally
made of cotton duck
waterproofed with tar.
Also plain weave jute
or hemp fabric made
with taped ends and
single filling,
waterproofed with tar,
paint or other
waterproofing
substances. Now made
of nylon and other
synthetic fibres.
TARRED ROPE z A rope which has
received an
application of tar to
increase resistance to
the deteriorating
effect of water.
A rope which has
received an application
of tar to increase
resistance to the
deteriorating effect of
water. Yarns for this
cordage are usually
treated with tar by the
dipping and saturating
process. It also imparts
added abrasion
resistance.
TARTAN fabrics tartan is an
elaborately colored
Authentic tartan
designs belong to
952
Word Category Short description Description
check design individual Scottish
clans, although many
other people now wear
them. Cloth is woolen
or worsted in twill
weave; each tartan is
an elaborately colored
check design. The
traditional garment is
the pleated kilt, but
tartan cloth is also
used for trousers,
shawls and fashion
garments. Elaborately
checked fabric is
available which is not
authentic tartan, often
made from acrylic or
cotton. The weight of
the cloth varies
considerably.
TARTAN CHECKS I Plain or twill weave
cotton dress fabric
with standard
patterned Scotch
plaids.
Plain or twill weave
cotton dress fabric with
standard patterned
Scotch plaids. May
also refer to fibred
fabric with a similar
plaid pattern.
TASSEL I A pendant trimming
with a tuft of loose
yarn at the end of a
length of rope-like
material.
A pendant trimming
with a tuft of loose yarn
at the end of a length
of rope-like material.
Used for dresses,
coats, curtains and
upholstery.
An embroidery stitch
used to form fringe.
TATTERSALL CHECK I Large, loud check
woollen cloth, often in
black and white with
another color.
Large, loud check
woollen cloth, often in
black and white with
another color. Often
worn on the
racecourse. Used for
overcoats, hats, caps
and capes for men.
Usually heavy. See
also Tattersal checks
under Checks
953
Word Category Short description Description
TATTING fabrics Lacy work, of varying
coarseness,
depending on the
thread used
Lacy work, of varying
coarseness, depending
on the thread used
(usually crochet
thread). It is worked
using a shuttle with
thread wound on to it,
and using the fingers of
the other hand in
conjunction with it.
Usually used only for
edgings, motifs, or
tablemats.
TEARING STRENGTH
I The resistance of a
fabric to tearing.
TATTING COTTON I A fine, hard twist,
cotton thread used in
tatting.
A fine, hard twist,
cotton thread used in
tatting.
TE z See Total elongation. See Total elongation.
TEAR t Fabric defect. Fabric defect. An
opening in the structure
of a fabric in which
several warp or weft
yarns, or both, are
severed.
TEAR DROP t Also called Teariness.
Fabric defect in
woven fabrics.
Also called Teariness.
Fabric defect in woven
fabrics. A fabric
condition characterized
by short crescent-like
elliptical deviations of
one or more adjoining
picks, caused by
insufficient warp
tension, incorrect
harness timing, over-
sized warp, uneven
penetration of sizing
solution. Tear drops
are most pronounced
in taffetas and
grosgrain weaves.
TEARINESS t See Tear drop. See Tear drop.
TEARING IN PRINTING See Tiering. See Tiering.
TEARING STRENGTH I The resistance of a
fabric to tearing.
The resistance of a
fabric to tearing.
954
Word Category Short description Description
1. The average force
required to start a tear
in a fabric under
specified conditions.
2. The average force
required to continue or
propagate a tear,
previously started in a
fabric, under specified
conditions.
TEASE The process of
napping or teaseling.
The process of napping
or teaseling.
TEASEL F See Teazle See Teazle
TEAZEL F See Teazle See Teazle
TEAZLE o Also called Teasel,
Teazel.
Also called Teasel,
Teazel. The dried
prickly burr of the plant
Fullerrs thistle
(Dipsacus fullonam),
used to raise the nap
and pile on certain
fabrics. The machine
used for this purpose is
known as Teazle Gig.
Wire brushes may also
be used for this
purpose
TEAZLE GIG F See under Teazle. See under Teazle.
TEAZLING processes,
operations
The dried prickly burr
of the plant Fullerrs
thistle
The dried prickly burr
of the plant Fullerrs
thistle is used to raise
the nap and pile on
certain fabrics. The
machine used for this
purpose is known as
Teazle gig. Wire
brushes may also be
used for this purpose
TEBELIZED A finish applied to
many fabrics,
including pile
constructions.
A finish applied to
many fabrics, including
pile constructions. The
finish resists creasing,
crushing and mussing;
gives the fabrics the
ability to recover from
wrinkling in wear;
remains the same after
955
Word Category Short description Description
washing.
TECHNICAL TEXTILES fabrics Textile materials and
products
manufactured
primarily for their
technical performance
Textile materials and
products manufactured
primarily for their
technical performance
and functional
properties rather than
their aesthetic or
decorative
characteristics. Some
of the end-uses
include, aerospace,
industrial, marine,
medical, military, safety
and transport textiles
and geo textiles.
TEDDY BEAR CLOTH I A napped fleece
coating made of wool
and mohair.
A napped fleece
coating made of wool
and mohair.
TEFLON v See
Tetrafluoroethylene.
See
Tetrafluoroethylene.
TEG WOOL v See Hog wool. See Hog wool.
TEKKA z A type of plaited cord
made of native wool
in Algeria and
generally dyed one
colour.
A type of plaited cord
made of native wool in
Algeria and generally
dyed one colour. Used
by Arab men to tie
trousers.
TEKLAN v Trade name for a
modacrylic fibre,
which is strong and
hardwearing but also
soft, warm and light
and can be bulked.
Trade name for a
modacrylic fibre, which
is strong and
hardwearing but also
soft, warm and light
and can be bulked.
Has good resistance to
sunlight, bacteria and
chemicals and, above
all, is nonflammable.
Used mainly in woven
and knitted dress
materials, and
household textiles,
such as net curtains
and furnishing fabrics,
and because it is
particularly flame-
resistant, for childrens
nightwear. See Acrylics
956
Word Category Short description Description
TELESCOPIC RAPIER F See Rapier. See Rapier.
TEMPLE F A device used on
looms to hold the
cloth at the fell as
near as possible
A device used on
looms to hold the cloth
at the fell as near as
possible to the width of
the warp in the reed; to
control the fabric width.
TEMPLE CUTTING t Fabric defect, caused
by fracture of the
warp or weft yarn, or
both, by temple pins
during weaving.
Fabric defect, caused
by fracture of the warp
or weft yarn, or both,
by temple pins during
weaving.
TEMPLE MARK t Also called Bad
temple, Pick-out
place, and Rough
place.
Also called Bad temple,
Pick-out place, and
Rough place. Fabric
defect in woven fabrics.
Small holes,
impressions,
distortions, or marks
adjacent to the selvage
of the fabric caused by
poorly ad-justed or
improper temples.
TEMPORARY SET See under Setting. See under Setting.
TENACITY v I The maximum
specific stress that is
developed in a tensile
test taken to rupture.
The maximum specific
stress that is
developed in a tensile
test taken to rupture.
TENCEL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Trade name of a
brand of lyocell fibre.
Trade name of a brand
of lyocell fibre. See
Lyocell.
TENDEL I A variety of biaze
dyed with indigo.
A variety of biaze dyed
with indigo. Made in
Central Asia.
TENDER GOODS t Fabric which has
become weak
because of tendering.
Fabric defect. Fabric
which has become
weak because of
tendering.
TENDER SPOT t See Weak spot See Weak spot
TENDER SPOTS t Places in fabric which
have been
excessively
weakened, usually by
exposure to
processing chemicals.
Places in fabric which
have been excessively
weakened, usually by
exposure to processing
chemicals. Also occurs
in printing and finishing
procedures.
TENDER WOOL v Wool, below the Wool, below the normal
957
Word Category Short description Description
normal tensile
strength.
tensile strength.
TENDERING defects Weakening of textile
materials by over
exposure to some
treatment or finishing
operation.
Weakening of textile
materials by over
exposure to some
treatment or finishing
operation. Tendering
can occur due to the
use of dried-out yarn,
very strong a scouring
liquor, redyeing,
redyeing after stripping
the cloth too harshly to
remove the colouring
on the material, poor
singeing, excessive
napping, excessive
shearing, etc
TENERIFFE LACE fabrics Lace which is
inexpensive typified
by a wheel design or
spiders web motif.
Lace which is
inexpensive typified by
a wheel design or
spiders web motif.
These are often joined
to make mats or added
to table linen. It is
similar to Paraguay
lace.
TENNIS CLOTH fabrics Also called Tennis
flannel. A bleached or
cream-coloured fabric
made of cotton,
Also called Tennis
flannel. A bleached or
cream-coloured fabric
made of cotton,
sometimes with wool
filling, in a two up, two
down twill or other
simple weaves, and
often decorated with
stripes of mercerized
cotton or spun silk.
Popular for shirting,
sportswear and
dresses.
TENNIS FLANNEL I See Tennis cloth. See Tennis cloth.
TENSILE general Relating to tension in,
or on, a material.
Relating to tension in,
or on, a material.
TENSILE HYSTERESIS
CURVE
o A stress-strain or a
complex load-
elongation curve
A stress-strain or a
complex load-
elongation curve
obtained when the test
958
Word Category Short description Description
sample is (a) subjected
to successive
applications of a load
or stress less than is
required to rupture and
to the removal of the
load or stress
according to a given
procedure; (b) stressed
less than breaking
elongation and is
permitted to relax by
removing the strain
according to the given
procedure.
TENSILE STRAIN o The relative length
deformation exhibited
by a specimen
subjected to a tensile
force
The relative length
deformation exhibited
by a specimen
subjected to a tensile
force; the extension of
a material subject to
tension expressed as a
proportion of the length
of the specimen.
TENSILE STRENGTH o See Breaking
strength.
See Breaking strength.
TENSILE STRENGTH AT
BREAK
o Also called Breaking
force.
Also called Breaking
force. The tensile force
recorded at the
moment of rupture.
The tensile strength
and the tensile strength
at break may be
different if, after yield,
the elongation
continues and is
accompanied by a drop
in force resulting in
tensile strength at
break being lower than
tensile strength.
TENSILE STRESS o The stress within a
material subjected to
tension.
The stress within a
material subjected to
tension.
TENSILE TEST o A test in which a
textile material is
extended in one
direction to determine
A test in which a textile
material is extended in
one direction to
determine one or more
959
Word Category Short description Description
one or more of its
force-extension
of its force-extension;
or stress-strain,
characteristics; e.g.
Breaking force,
Elongation at break.
TENSION o The force acting along
a yarn or fabric
sample tending to
elongate it
The force acting along
a yarn or fabric sample
tending to elongate it; a
uniaxial force tending
to cause the extension
of a body or the
balancing force within
that body resisting the
extension.
TENSION REP I A plain weave rep
made on two warp
beams, one tensioned
slackly and the
second tightly.
A plain weave rep
made on two warp
beams, one tensioned
slackly and the second
tightly. Ends are
arranged in a simple
pattern, e.g. one tight
end and alternating
with one slack end.
TENSION TEST o A test designed to
measure the tautness
in a textile strand or
fabric.
A test designed to
measure the tautness
in a textile strand or
fabric. See also Tensile
test.
TENSION-SUPPORTED
ROOF
z A fabric roof-system A fabric roof-system,
that is properly secured
and primarily held in
place by tensile forces
applied across the
system.
TENSOMETER F A laboratory device
that measures the
tensile strength, and
therefore the tenacity,
of the specimen.
A laboratory device
that measures the
tensile strength, and
therefore the tenacity,
of the specimen.
TENT CLOTH I A strong, waterproof
cloth, especially duck,
used for tents.
A strong, waterproof
cloth, especially duck,
used for tents.
TENT STITCH A short, slanted type
of needlework made
in even lines of
stitches from left to
right.
A short, slanted type of
needlework made in
even lines of stitches
from left to right.
Commonly used in
960
Word Category Short description Description
embroidery.
TENTER F Same as Stenter. Same as Stenter.
TENTER MARK t See Clip mark. See Clip mark.
TENTERING Same as Stentering. Same as Stentering.
TERENE v A trade name for
polyester resembling
Dacron physically
A trade name for
polyester resembling
Dacron physically; in a
range of deniers and
staple fibres.
TERINDA v Trade name for a
polyester fibre, from
which a range of
knitting yarns has
been designed
especially for surface
finishes.
Trade name for a
polyester fibre, from
which a range of
knitting yarns has been
designed especially for
surface finishes. The
yarns may be bright,
dull or extra dull. Used
in suede and panne
fabrics.
TERMINOLOGY FOR
GRADING PROCESS
See under Grading. See under Grading.
TERRITORY WOOL v This wool is chiefly of
the fine type and it
shows heavy
shrinkage and low
yield.
This wool is chiefly of
the fine type and it
shows heavy shrinkage
and low yield. Much of
the wool is dull, dark
and dirty in-the-grease
but it scoures well to a
good white.
TERRY I See Terry towelling. See Terry towelling.
TERRY FABRIC fabrics A warp-pile fabric
having the pile in the
form of loops,
A warp-pile fabric
having the pile in the
form of loops, which is
used for toweling,
beach robes, bath
mats, etc.
TERRY OFF t Fabric defect. A band
in a terry section that
has no terry loops.
Fabric defect. A band
in a terry section that
has no terry loops.
Usually caused by
incorrect let-off motion.
TERRY ON PALAIN t Fabric defect. Terry
loops appearing
within a plain section
of a terry fabric
Fabric defect. Terry
loops appearing within
a plain section of a
terry fabric. Usually
caused by incorrect let-
off motion.
961
Word Category Short description Description
TERRY TOWEL z See under Towel. See under Towel.
TERRY TOWELING fabrics It is cotton backing
with uncut loops on
the surface.
It is cotton backing with
uncut loops on the
surface. The best
quality toweling has
loops on both sides
and a firmly woven
selvage. The loops are
formed by the extra
yarn being fed in at a
slack tension; they are
easily caught and
pulled on cheap
toweling, but on better
quality fabric they are
shorter and closer and
more firmly anchored.
Terry may be plain or
printed. Used for robes
and beachwear as well
as towels, curtains and
bath mats, etc. Terry
varies in thickness, but
all are all bulky. Also
sometimes called
Turkish toweling.
TERRY VELVET I A velvet fabric with a
looped pile, produced
in the same way as
Terry toweling.
A velvet fabric with a
looped pile, produced
in the same way as
Terry toweling.
TERTIARY COLOURS o Shade of colour made
by mixing the primary
colours or one or
more of the
secondary colours
with grey or black.
Shade of colour made
by mixing the primary
colours or one or more
of the secondary
colours with grey or
black. See also Colour,
Primary colours and
Secondary colours.
TERYLENE v Trade name of a
polyester fibre,
produced from
petroleum and its
byproducts.
Trade name of a
polyester fibre,
produced from
petroleum and its
byproducts. Can be
successfully bulked. Is
extremely hardwearing
and mixes well with
many other fibres such
as cotton, wool, and
962
Word Category Short description Description
viscose. Does not
catch light but it melts.
Used in all types of
dress and furnishing
fabrics. See Polyester.
TETRAFLUOROETHYLENE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
It is Teflon. It is Teflon. A textile
fibre made in either
staple or filament form
from
tetrafluoroethylene
monomer unit.
TEX v Tex is the basic unit
of the tex system.
Tex is the basic unit of
the tex system. A unit
for expressing linear
density, equal to the
mass in grams of 1000
metres of yarn,
filament, fibre or other
textile strand. It is a
recognized SI unit. See
Tex system.
TEX COUNT (tex) fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Tex is the basic unit
of the tex system
Tex is the basic unit of
the tex system. A unit
for expressing linear
density, equal to the
mass in grams of 1000
metres of yarn,
filament, fibre or other
textile strand. It is a
recognized SI unit. See
Tex system and Yarn
count in tex system
TEX SYSTEM fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The internationally
accepted system of
expressing linear
density (mass per unit
length) of fibres,
filaments, slivers, and
yarns, or other linear
textile material.
The internationally
accepted system of
expressing linear
density (mass per unit
length) of fibres,
filaments, slivers, and
yarns, or other linear
textile material. The
basic unit is tex, which
is the mass in grams of
one kilometre of the
product. Multiples and
sub-multiples
recommended for use
in preference to other
possible combinations
963
Word Category Short description Description
are: kilogram per
kilometre, designated
kilotex (ktex); decigram
per kilometre,
designated decitex
(dtex); and milligram
per kilometre,
designated millitex
(mtex).
TEXILOSE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A substitute for jute
yarn,
A substitute for jute
yarn, consisting of
paper strips mixed with
short waste textile
fibres.
TEXIPIQU fabrics A non-jacquard
double jersey fabric
A non-jacquard double
jersey fabric made on
an interlock basis and
consisting of a
selection of knitted and
tuck loops.
TEXTILE general The word is derived
from the Latin word
texere
The word is derived
from the Latin word
texere - to weave; but
a wider meaning than
simply that of weaving
must be accepted
since that is only one of
a variety of ways of
making textile fabrics.
Originally a woven
fabric, now generally
applied to fibres, yarn
intermediates, yarns,
fabrics, and products
made from fabrics
which retain more or
less completely the
strength, flexibility, and
other properties of the
original fibres or
filaments. A textile is a
fabric made from fibres
but, as shown below,
the fibres may either be
converted into yarn first
and then the yarns put
together in one of a
variety of ways to make
964
Word Category Short description Description
fabrics, or the fibres
can be converted
directly into a fabric.
TEXTILE ARTICLES z Yarns, piece goods
and made-up articles
consisting mainly of
textile materials.
Yarns, piece goods
and made-up articles
consisting mainly of
textile materials.
TEXTILE DESIGN An arrangement of
forms or colours, or
both, to be
implemented for
ornamentation in or
on various textile
materials.
An arrangement of
forms or colours, or
both, to be
implemented for
ornamentation in or on
various textile
materials. Designs or
patterns may be woven
or knitted into the
structure of a fabric;
may form a surface
decoration; or a blend
of colours may brighten
or improve the design
or pattern.
TEXTILE FABRIC I See Fabric. See Fabric.
TEXTILE FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A unit of matter that is
characterized by
having a length at
least 100 times its
diameter or width
A unit of matter that is
characterized by
having a length at least
100 times its diameter
or width and which can
be spun into a yarn or
made into a fabric by
interlacing in a variety
of methods, including
weaving, knitting,
braiding, felting, and
twisting. Not, all fibres
are suitable for textile
purposes because a
textile fibre must
possess sufficient
length, fineness,
strength and flexibility
to be suitable for
manufacture into
fabrics. The two basic
forms of textile fibres
are Filament and
Staple. See also Fibre.
TEXTILE MATERIALS general An inclusive term for An inclusive term for
965
Word Category Short description Description
fibres, yarns, fabrics,
and products
fibres, yarns, fabrics,
and products, which
keep relatively the
same tensile strength,
flexibility and properties
of the original fibres.
TEXTILE MODULUS general Deprecated term. Deprecated term. See
Youngs modulus.
TEXTILE PROCESSING processes,
operations
Any mechanical
process used to
transform a textile
fibre or yarn to a
fabric or other textile
material.
Any mechanical
process used to
transform a textile fibre
or yarn to a fabric or
other textile material.
Included in these
processes are:
Opening, Carding,
Combing, Spinning,
Quilling, Slashing,
Weaving, Knitting, etc.
TEXTILE TECHNICIAN general A specialist
knowledgeable in the
technical details
A specialist
knowledgeable in the
technical details of
some particular phase
of textile
manufacturing.
TEXTILE TECHNOLOGIST general A scientist who
applied precise
knowledge
A scientist who applied
precise knowledge to
the development or
direction of various
phases of textile
manufacturing.
TEXTILE, NON-
COMBUSTIBLE
fabrics See Non-combustible
textile.
See Non-combustible
textile.
TEXTILIST o A specialist in some
phase of textiles.
A specialist in some
phase of textiles.
TEXTURAL DESIGN A great variety of
design and texture
effects which may be
produced by weave
combination of
various materials and
in pile fabrics
A great variety of
design and texture
effects which may be
produced by weave
combination of various
materials and in pile
fabrics as distinguished
from design produced
by colour. See Textile
design.
TEXTURE fabrics The surface
appearance and hand
The surface
appearance and hand
966
Word Category Short description Description
of a textile material; of a textile material;
may be described as:
dull, lustrous, woolly,
stiff, soft, fine, coarse,
open or closely woven,
etc. Texture is
independent of the
colour of the material.
TEXTURED FILAMENT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Multi- or mono-
filament yarn
characterized by
actual, or latent,
filament crimps, coils
or loops, with or
without twist liveliness
Multi- or mono-filament
yarn characterized by
actual, or latent,
filament crimps, coils or
loops, with or without
twist liveliness, by
which it has, or can
develop by after-
treatment, bulk and/or
stretch properties.
TEXTURED GLASS YARN v A yarn processed
from continuous
filament yarn
A yarn processed from
continuous filament
yarn in such a manner
to induce bulk to the
yarn by disorientation
of the filaments
TEXTURED PILE z See under Pile in
carpet.
See under Pile in
carpet.
TEXTURED YARN v A generic term for
filament or spun yarns
A generic term for
filament or spun yarns
that have been given
notably greater
apparent volume than
conventional yarns of
similar fibre or filament
count and linear
density. See Texturing.
TEXTURING processes,
operations
Also called
Texturising. A process
by which synthetic
thermoplastic yarns
are imparted
additional bulk,
moderate stretch and
texture.
Also called Texturising.
A process by which
synthetic thermoplastic
yarns are imparted
additional bulk,
moderate stretch and
texture. A continuous
filament yarn that has
been processed to
introduce durable
crimps, coils, loops or
other fine distortions
along the lengths of the
967
Word Category Short description Description
filaments. Man-made
fibres, in the form of
continuous filaments,
when twisted together
to make smooth
surfaced continuous
filament yarns, could
not compete effectively
with spun yarns,
particularly those made
from natural fibres,
because they did not
have the same
hairiness, bulk and
warmth of handle, or
high moisture
absorbency which the
spun yarns possess.
The texturing process
imparts, to the stronger
continuous filament
synthetics; those
properties which were
once associated only
with staple yarns. The
improved properties
are developed by the
permanent introduction
of crimps, coils, loops
and crinkles into the
straight filament. The
technique of texturing
has added significance
as the man-made fibre
producers can now
produce yarns more or
less ready for weaving
or knitting, without the
additional processes of
cutting up the extruded
filaments and
respinning the resulting
staple on traditional
textile machinery.
Various techniques
have been developed
for bringing about
these filament
modifications, and
968
Word Category Short description Description
some methods are
more in common usage
than others.
TEXTURISING See Texturing See Texturing
TEXTURITY general A label placed on
material that is
guaranteed not to
shrink more than 2%.
A label placed on
material that is
guaranteed not to
shrink more than 2%.
TEXTURIZED I An appealing textural
surface due to the use
of a textured yarn.
An appealing textural
surface due to the use
of a textured yarn.
TG (Tg) o See Glass-rubber
transition
temperature.
See Glass-rubber
transition temperature.
THEATRICAL GAUZE I A lightweight, plain
weave, open textured
cotton fabric with a
stiff finish.
A lightweight, plain
weave, open textured
cotton fabric with a stiff
finish. It is available in
many colours. Used for
theatrical costumes,
curtains. The fabric
was originally woven
with linen yarn and,
because of its
sheerness, was used in
theatrical drops as an
almost invisible ground
for applied foliage. Also
called linen scrim.
THERMAL BLANKET I See under Blanket See under Blanket
THERMAL BONDED
BATTING
v w A textile filling
material which
contains low-melting
point fibres or
polymers
A textile filling material
which contains low-
melting point fibres or
polymers which, when
heated, fuse the batting
materials together
THERMAL CHARACTER I Apparent difference in
temperature of the
fabric and the skin of
the observer touching
it.
Apparent difference in
temperature of the
fabric and the skin of
the observer touching
it. See Hand of fabric.
THERMAL CONDUCTANCE o See Thermal
transmittance.
See Thermal
transmittance.
THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY o Time rate of
unidirectional heat
transfer per unit area
Time rate of
unidirectional heat
transfer per unit area,
in the steady-state,
969
Word Category Short description Description
between parallel
planes separated by
unit distance, per unit
difference of
temperature of the
planes.
THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY
TESTER
F A laboratory device
that measures the
resistance of a fabric
to the flow of heat.
A laboratory device
that measures the
resistance of a fabric to
the flow of heat. A cloth
is a better insulator and
thus warmer when it
has lower thermal
conductivity.
THERMAL FABRICS I Fabrics made with
fibres having wicking
property.
Fabrics made with
fibres having wicking
property. Used mainly
for the manufacture of
thermal underwear,
which when worn next
to the skin, the skin is
kept dry through the
wicking action of the
fibre, transferring body
moisture into a more
absorbent garment
worn on top. Thermal
fabrics are made of
spun synthetic yarns
(chlorofibre (polyvinyl
chloride),
polypropylene,
polyester, etc.) which
are soft, almost cotton-
like in handle so that
there is no question of
a clammy fabric next to
skin.
Most thermal fabrics
seem to rely on almost
total lack of moisture
regain which helps to
limit the thermal
conductivity of the
fibre.
If the construction of
the fabric provides a
layer of still air over the
body it will prevent the
970
Word Category Short description Description
entry of cold from the
outside and the loss of
heat from the body.
The fabric construction
and the garment layers
play an important part
in creating the
necessary insulation
properties.
An additional factor is a
negative electrostatic
charge generated by
chlorofibre which is
regarded as
therapeutic. It has been
found to relieve pain
and to help retain body
warmth by producing a
barrier of air which is
electrostatic. It is
reported by some
European universities
and hospitals that
these tribo-electrical
properties of polyvinyl
chloride have very
significant beneficial
effects on pa-tients
suffering from various
conditions such as
neuralgia, scitica and
rheumatism.
THERMAL FINISHING The process of
applying heat to
textiles to impart
desired functional
and/or aesthetic
characteristics.
The process of
applying heat to textiles
to impart desired
functional and/or
aesthetic
characteristics.
Thermal finishing
includes heat setting,
hot embossing, etc.,
but excludes drying.
THERMAL FIXATION The use of dry heat to
achieve a degree of
permanence when
applying colorants to
textile material.
The use of dry heat to
achieve a degree of
permanence when
applying colorants to
textile material.
THERMAL KNIT FABRIC I A waffle-knit fabric of A waffle-knit fabric of
971
Word Category Short description Description
cotton, wool or man-
made fibre which has
an insulating quality.
cotton, wool or man-
made fibre which has
an insulating quality.
THERMAL PROTECTIVE
PERFORMANCE (TPP)
RATING
o See Exposure energy
to thermal endpoint.
See Exposure energy
to thermal endpoint.
THERMAL PROTECTIVE
PERFORMANCE RATING
I See Exposure energy
to thermal endpoint.
See Exposure energy
to thermal endpoint.
THERMAL RESISTANCE o The reciprocal of
thermal transmittance.
The reciprocal of
thermal transmittance.
THERMAL RESISTIVITY o The reciprocal of
thermal conductivity.
The reciprocal of
thermal conductivity.
THERMAL
TRANSMITTANCE
o Time rate of
unidirectional heat
transfer per unit area,
in the steady state,
between parallel
planes, per unit
difference of
temperature of the
planes.
Time rate of
unidirectional heat
transfer per unit area,
in the steady state,
between parallel
planes, per unit
difference of
temperature of the
planes. Same as
Thermal conductance
and Heat Transfer
coefficient.
THERMAL WOVEN FABRIC I A porous fabric so
constructed that air
warmed by the body
is trapped between
the yarns.
A porous fabric so
constructed that air
warmed by the body is
trapped between the
yarns. Used for
blankets, winter
underwear, the reverse
sides of comforters.
THERMALINE DYEING I Solid-colour dyeing
that is applied to
union lustre wool
fabrics.
Solid-colour dyeing that
is applied to union
lustre wool fabrics.
THERMALLY-BONDED
SEAM
o A seam formed by
heat and pressure.
A seam formed by heat
and pressure.
(Compare Glued seam,
Sewn seam, Stapled
seam.)
THERMATION MACHINE F An automatic quilting
machine
An automatic quilting
machine capable of
producing vinyl quilting
in one step by
sandwiching a layer of
filling material between
972
Word Category Short description Description
two layers of vinyl.
THERMOFIX DYEING A dyeing process
used extensively for
continuous dyeing of
materials made of
polyester alone or
when mixed with
other fibres
A dyeing process used
extensively for
continuous dyeing of
materials made of
polyester alone or
when mixed with other
fibres; a process which
makes effective use
the property of
sublimation, possessed
by disperse dyes of low
molecular weight
THERMOFIXATION A dry heat process
used for fixation of
dyes on a fibre, e.g.
fixation or reaction of
fibre reactive dyes.
A dry heat process
used for fixation of
dyes on a fibre, e.g.
fixation or reaction of
fibre reactive dyes.
Sometimes applied to
the thermosol process.
THERMOPLASTIC general Term applied to
substances able to be
repeatedly deformed
Term applied to
substances able to be
repeatedly deformed
by the application heat
and pressure without
any accompanying
chemical change.
THERMOSETTING general Term applied to
substances which
harden when
sufficient heat is
applied
Term applied to
substances which
harden when sufficient
heat is applied and
thereafter are
practically infusible
THERMOSOL METHOD processes,
operations
A method of dyeing
man-made fibres,
especially polyester
and other
thermoplastic fibres,
A method of dyeing
man-made fibres,
especially polyester
and other thermoplastic
fibres, by padding
fabric with disperse
dyes or selected vat
pigments. Dry heat
(390 C to 450 C for
about one minute) is
used to make dyes
migrate or move into
and colour the fibres.
So-called solid
solutions are formed in
973
Word Category Short description Description
the fibre.
THERMOSOLING Fixation by dry heat or
baking
Fixation by dry heat or
baking
THERMOSTATIC
PROCESS
processes,
operations
A heat-treating
process used on
nylon fabrics to
improve hand of
fabrics
A heat-treating process
used on nylon fabrics
to improve hand of
fabrics; dimensional
stability; wrinkle-
resistance and crease
resistance.
THERMOVYL v A non-post-
chlorinated
polyvinylchloride fibre
of coarse staple.
A non-post-chlorinated
polyvinylchloride fibre
of coarse staple. It is
pre-shrunk by heat
treatment, which
improves its heat
stability and minimal
strength at high
extension.
THICK AND THIN v Twisted strands of
fibres of varying
thickness used to
obtain unusual effects
in weaving.
Twisted strands of
fibres of varying
thickness used to
obtain unusual effects
in weaving.
THICK AND THIN PLACES t Fabric defect. See
Thick place and Thin
place.
Fabric defect. See
Thick place and Thin
place.
1. MAJ OR FABRIC
DEFECT. Places in the
fabric where for 1 in.
(25 mm) or more the
count varies more than
a specified percentage
from the specified
count. See also Thick
place and Thin place.
2. MINOR FABRIC
DEFECT. Places in the
fabric where for less
than 1 in. (25 mm) the
count varies more than
a specified percentage
from the specified
count. See also Thick
place and Thin place.
THICK BAR t Fabric defect. Fabric defect. An effect
caused by two or more
weft picks which give a
974
Word Category Short description Description
thick or bloated effect
in the goods. Caused
by improper setting of
the cloth in the loom
after a start-up,
uneven tension and
weights on the warp
beam, not setting the
pick-wheel correctly
after stopping the loom,
poor functioning of the
take-up because of
possible improper
setting or tension, or
skipping.
THICK FILLING t See Coarse pick. See Coarse pick.
THICK PICK t See Coarse pick. See Coarse pick.
THICK PLACE t YARN DEFECT. A
place in the yarn
characterized by a
diameter greater than
that of the adjoining
segments and
extending for 6 mm
( in.).
1. YARN DEFECT. A
place in the yarn
characterized by a
diameter greater than
that of the adjoining
segments and
extending for 6 mm (
in.).
2. FABRIC DEFECT.
An unintentional
change in fabric
appearance
characterized by a
small area of more
closely spaced yarns,
or by a congregation of
thick yarns as
compared to the
adjacent con-struction.
See also Thin place
and Thick and thin
places.
THICK STRIPES t Fabric defect. Stripes
which are too thick in
diameter and tend to
throw off the general
appearance of the
fabric.
Fabric defect. Stripes
which are too thick in
diameter and tend to
throw off the general
appearance of the
fabric. Caused by
uneven yarn, incorrect
drawing-in or reeding-
in of the warp threads,
975
Word Category Short description Description
and incorrect yarn
sizes.
THICKENING In printing, any agent
used to stodge up
the liquid colouring-
matter
In printing, any agent
used to stodge up the
liquid colouring-matter
and to prevent its
spread by capillarity to
unwanted areas of the
cloth. It is made of
natural starches or
gums or of artificial
ones.
THICKNESS general In textiles, the
distance between the
upper and lower
surfaces of the
material
In textiles, the distance
between the upper and
lower surfaces of the
material, measured
under a specified
pressure.
THICKNESS TESTER F A laboratory device
that measures the
thickness of yarns
and fabrics under
standard pressure.
A laboratory device
that measures the
thickness of yarns and
fabrics under standard
pressure.
THICKSET I A strong corduroy
with short, thick pile
and twill back.
A strong corduroy with
short, thick pile and
twill back. Woven with
high filling count per
square inch. Used for
work clothing. The pile
is so thickly set as to
somewhat resemble a
coarse velveteen.
THIGH GIRTH z Garment-related term. Garment-related term.
See under Garment
sizing system.
THIN BAR t Fabric defect. Occurs
in the loom when two
or more warp ends do
not interlace with the
weft yarn.
Fabric defect. Occurs
in the loom when two
or more warp ends do
not interlace with the
weft yarn. May be
caused by failure of the
loom to stop or knock-
off when a weft breaks
or snaps, or by an
irregular action of a
harness frame. Thin
bars may be
interspersed
976
Word Category Short description Description
throughout the width of
the goods if a harness
strap on a harness
frame breaks or skips;
gives a flat in the warp
direction of the cloth.
May also be caused by
a warp end becoming
broken and causing the
two ends on each side
of where it should be
weaving to weave side-
by-side to produce a
flat in the vertical
direction of the
material.
THIN END t See Fine end. See Fine end.
THIN FILLING t Also called Fine filling,
Fine pick, Light filling,
Light pick, Thin pick.
Also called Fine filling,
Fine pick, Light filling,
Light pick, Thin pick.
Fabric defect in woven
fabrics. A weft yarn
smaller in diameter
than normally being
used in the fabric.
THIN FILLING BAR t See Fine filling bar. See Fine filling bar.
THIN PICK t See Thin filling. See Thin filling.
THIN PLACE t YARN DEFECT. A
place in the yarn
characterized by a
segment that is
substantially (at least
25 %) smaller in
diameter than the
average diameter of
the yarn.
1. YARN DEFECT. A
place in the yarn
characterized by a
segment that is
substantially (at least
25 %) smaller in
diameter than the
average diameter of
the yarn.
2. FABRIC DEFECT.
An unintentional
change in fabric
appearance
characterized by, a
small area of loosely
spaced yarns, often
caused by the weft
yarn breaking and the
loom continues to run
until the operator
notices the problem, or
977
Word Category Short description Description
a congregation of thin
yarns as compared to
the adjacent con-
struction.
See also Thick place
and Thick and thin
places.
THIN SPOT t See Crack mark See Crack mark
THIN STRIPES t Fabric defect. Linked
with thick stripes
Fabric defect. Linked
with thick stripes,
these come from poor
set-up of the pattern,
faulty weaving,
improper drawing-in or
reeding-in of the warp
yarns.
THIN-WALLED FIBRE v See under Cotton
maturity.
See under Cotton
maturity.
THIRD COMBING v The wool taken from
the lower part of the
back of the fleece.
The wool taken from
the lower part of the
back of the fleece.
THIRD GENERATION MAN-
MADE FIBRES
v The phase of
development is
characterized by
custom-tailoring fibres
for specialized
markets.
The phase of
development is
characterized by
custom-tailoring fibres
for specialized
markets. The qualities
of performance and
aesthetics are now
being built in to the
fibres in the production
stage.
THISTLE o See Teazle. See Teazle.
THONG HOLE F In zippers, the
opening at the end of
a pull.
In zippers, the opening
at the end of a pull.
THORNPROOF TWEED fabrics Characteristic type of
tweed with Salt and
pepper colouring
styles.
Characteristic type of
tweed with Salt and
pepper colouring
styles. Normal woollen
yarns for tweeds are
single yarns but
thornproof tweed is
made from two-fold
twist yarns and the two
yarns can be either
contrasting or toning in
978
Word Category Short description Description
color. The standard
weave is plain and the
combination of this
weave and series of
twist colors in warp and
weft gives the
characteristic sprinkled
color effect.
THREAD fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The result of twisting
together in one or
more operations two
or more single, folded
or cabled yarns.
The result of twisting
together in one or more
operations two or more
single, folded or cabled
yarns. The term thread
is frequently used to
describe single yarns,
a product as used in
sewing, also used in
such expressions as
(threads per unit
length) irrespective of
their nature
THREAD BREAK In sewn seams, a
rupture of the sewing
thread.
In sewn seams, a
rupture of the sewing
thread.
THREAD COUNT v The number of warp
and weft threads in 1
square inch of fabric
The number of warp
and weft threads in 1
square inch of fabric
before it being
subjected to any kind
of processing.
THREAD COUNTER F See Counting glass. See Counting glass.
THREAD FABRIC I A strong,
heavyweight, plain
weave cotton fabric
made with ply warp
and single filling
A strong, heavyweight,
plain weave cotton
fabric made with ply
warp and single filling;
picks are spaced far
apart from each other.
Once used as a
foundation for rubber in
tyres, but later
supplanted by other
cord fabrics.
THREAD HOLDER apparatus,
equipage,
tools
The device on which
thread is wound
The device on which
thread is wound so that
it can be transported
to, and run off smoothly
at, the sewing
operation. It may be in
979
Word Category Short description Description
the form of a cone,
spool, tube, or bobbin.
THREAD MARKING z Temporary stitches to
mark the fitting lines
of a bespoke
garment.
1. Temporary stitches
to mark the fitting lines
of a bespoke garment.
2. Marking key
positions such as
pockets and darts of
garments, by means of
threads inserted
through all the plies of
a lay with a thread
marking machine.
THREAD OUT t See End out. See End out.
THREAD WASTE v The waste left on
bobbins or collected
during spinning and
weaving.
The waste left on
bobbins or collected
during spinning and
weaving. See also
Thrum waste, and
Spinners waste.
THREADY CLOTH fabrics A fabric finished to
show all the thread on
the face.
A fabric finished to
show all the thread on
the face.
THREE-LEAF TWILL I Simplest form of twill,
repeating on three
ends and three picks.
Simplest form of twill,
repeating on three
ends and three picks.
THREE-LEAF WARP TWILL I Dyed or bleached,
carded fabric made
with a three-harness
warp-faced twill.
Dyed or bleached,
carded fabric made
with a three-harness
warp-faced twill. It is
lighter in weight than
jeans or drills and is
used in work shirts,
pocketings and some
linings.
THREE-PICK TERRY
CLOTH
I Two picks (filling) go
under the pile loops
and one pick goes
between two rows of
pile.
Two picks (filling) go
under the pile loops
and one pick goes
between two rows of
pile.
THREE-QUARTER GOODS fabrics In woollen industry,
fabrics, which
measure 27 inches
(68.58 cm) or , yard
(0.69 m), in width.
In woollen industry,
fabrics, which measure
27 inches (68.58 cm)
or , yard (0.69 m), in
width.
THROAT PLATE F In sewing machine, a
platform in the
In sewing machine, a
platform in the stitching
980
Word Category Short description Description
stitching zone for
supporting the work
material being sewn
with openings for the
needle and feed
surfaces.
zone for supporting the
work material being
sewn with openings for
the needle and feed
surfaces. Slots are cut
in the plate through
which the dogs
protrude, holes are
located for needle
passage to the bobbin
or loopers below the
plate, and extensions
of the plate are used
for chaining fingers on
the overlock and
multithread chain stitch
machines. Also called
Needle plate.
THROAT SEIZING z See Seizing. See Seizing.
THROATS w in zippers, the two
openings in a slider
that receive the
stringers.
in zippers, the two
openings in a slider
that receive the
stringers.
THROUGH-AND-THROUGH fabrics A reversible wool
fabric with identical
face and back
A reversible wool fabric
with identical face and
back.
THROUGH-PRINTED fabrics sheer fabrics printed
so that the colors are
well defined on both
sides
Sheer fabrics can be
printed so that the
colors on the back of
the cloth are about as
well defined as those
on the face, e.g.
Discharge style
printing.
THROW z A removable, unfitted
protective textile
cover, used over
upholstered furniture.
A removable, unfitted
protective textile cover,
used over upholstered
furniture. See Furniture
covering
THROWING fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Term, especially used
in the silk and man-
made fibre industries
Term, especially used
in the silk and man-
made fibre industries to
describe the twisting or
folding of continuous
filament yarns from
required number of
filaments with required
amount of twist for the
981
Word Category Short description Description
fabric to be woven or
knitted.
THROWN SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Raw silk that has
been twisted, or
doubled and twisted.
Raw silk that has been
twisted, or doubled and
twisted.
THROWN SINGLES I Raw silk, which after
reeling is thrown, i.e.
grouped and
generally twisted into
tram, organzine, no-
throw or twistless
yarn, crpe or sewing
silk thread.
Raw silk, which after
reeling is thrown, i.e.
grouped and generally
twisted into tram,
organzine, no-throw or
twistless yarn, crpe or
sewing silk thread.
THROWSTER v #Error #Error
THRUM o A term for fringe or
short lengths of
materials which
suggest fringe.
1. A term for fringe or
short lengths of
materials which
suggest fringe.
Specifically, the end of
warp which is not
woven but remains on
the loom when the
woven fabric has been
cut free.
2. A general term for
soft, short threads,
tufts, or fringe. In
broader terms, any
mass of hairs on an
animal, or fibres or
thread-like leaves of a
plant which is similar to
thrum
THRUM WASTE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The threads of
woven-out warps cut
from warp beams.
The threads of woven-
out warps cut from
warp beams. This
waste is often tightly
twisted and must be
reworked before it can
be used again.
THUNDER AND
LIGHTNING
I See Oxford grey. See Oxford grey.
TICK EFFECTS I A term sometimes
used for birds eye
patterns, especially
on worsted suiting.
A term sometimes
used for birds eye
patterns, especially on
worsted suiting.
TICKET NUMBER v The tex number The tex number
982
Word Category Short description Description
assigned to a sewing
thread to designate its
approximate linear
density.
assigned to a sewing
thread to designate its
approximate linear
density.
TICKING I Very strong, closely
woven twill.
Very strong, closely
woven twill. Stiff and
can be recognized
mainly by the narrow
woven in stripes of any
color along with white;
can be plain also.
Usually made of cotton,
but sometimes linen is
added. Though not
very attractive fabric,
used occasionally as a
fashion fabric for
womens jackets and
trousers. Its main use
is as hardwearing
covers for mattresses,
and pillows.
TIE CLOTH I Any soft or crisp fabric
suitable for mens ties
or cravats
Any soft or crisp fabric
suitable for mens ties
or cravats, including
Tie silk and faille,
pongee, in twill weave,
acetate, polyester or
silk fibres.
TIE INTERFACING SEW-IN I See under Sew-in
woven interfacing.
See under Sew-in
woven interfacing.
TIE SILK I A general term for silk
fabric used for mens
neckties generally
made in narrow
widths
A general term for silk
fabric used for mens
neckties generally
made in narrow widths,
in a wide range of
constructions, textures,
colours, designs and
qualities.
TIE-DYEING processes,
operations
Also called Tie-and-
dyeing or Knot
dyeing.
Also called Tie-and-
dyeing or Knot dyeing.
Hand dyeing method of
producing patterns on
fabric. Portions of the
cloth are tied into a
compact knot so that
areas will not be
penetrated and thus
983
Word Category Short description Description
remain undyed,
forming a pattern.
TIE-STITCH A short stitch, leaving
ends of thread several
inches long which are
then tied in a knot.
A short stitch, leaving
ends of thread several
inches long which are
then tied in a knot.
Used mainly in
millinery and
occasionally in
dressmaking
TIERING In printing, the job of
spreading the print-
paste evenly over the
woollen sieve.
In printing, the job of
spreading the print-
paste evenly over the
woollen sieve. Same
as Tearing.
TIGERING processes,
operations
Removing the surplus
strands of fibre
Removing the surplus
strands of fibre from
the surface of high-pile
woven or knitted
fabrics.
TIGHT END t Fabric defect in
woven fabrics.
Fabric defect in woven
fabrics. A yarn which
was woven under
excessive tension or
has shrunk more than
a normal amount.
TIGHT FILLING t See Tight pick. See Tight pick.
TIGHT PICK t Also called Stretched
filling, Tight filling.
Fabric defect in
woven fabrics.
Also called Stretched
filling, Tight filling.
Fabric defect in woven
fabrics. One or more
picks woven under
abnormally high
tension producing a
fabric condition
appearing as a wavy,
ruffled or puckered
surface at the junction
with normal picks.
(Compare Wavy cloth.)
TIGHT SELVEDGE t Also called Drawn
selvage. Fabric defect
in woven fabrics.
Also called Drawn
selvage. Fabric defect
in woven fabrics.
Selvedge yarns shorter
than warp yarn in the
body of the fabric. May
be caused by the loom
984
Word Category Short description Description
temples not holding the
edge threads and the
fabric to the proper
width at the fell of the
cloth as it is being
woven; filling tensions
being too high, too
many ends in the reed
splits or dents which
cause cramming of the
yarn, a weave
construction that is too
compact or tight and
the yarn which is not
suitable for the type of
fabric desired. Tight
selvedges are very
difficult to remedy.
TIGHT SPOT t See Twit See Twit
TIGHT TWIST END t Also called Hard end,
and Wiry end. Fabric
defect
Also called Hard end,
and Wiry end. Fabric
defect. A single end
with higher than normal
twist.
TIGHT WARP ENDS t Fabric defect. One or
more ends which
result from abnormal
tension in the cloth
Fabric defect. One or
more ends which result
from abnormal tension
in the cloth and usually
run for considerable
length unless observed
by the weaver.
Sometimes difficult to
detect as cloth is being
woven.
TIGHTNESS FACTOR fabrics Also called Cover
factor. In knitting, a
measure of the
relationship between
the loop length of a
knitted fabric and the
size/count of the yarn
employed to construct
it.
Also called Cover
factor. In knitting, a
measure of the
relationship between
the loop length of a
knitted fabric and the
size/count of the yarn
employed to construct
it. A range of fabric of
differing loop size are
considered to have
related properties if the
yarn size increases to
maintain the same
985
Word Category Short description Description
cover factor.
TIME-TO-BREAK o The time interval
during which a
specimen is under
prescribed conditions
of tension
The time interval during
which a specimen is
under prescribed
conditions of tension
and is absorbing the
energy required to
reach maximum load.
TIN WEIGHTING Building up weight of
silk by use of tin salts
Building up weight of
silk by use of tin salts,
especially used for
white or light shades.
TINCTORIAL STRENGTH The effectiveness of a
given mass of dye in
coloring a given mass
of material.
The effectiveness of a
given mass of dye in
coloring a given mass
of material.
TINSEL YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A textile yarn or
thread, combined,
coated, or covered
with a shiny
substance,
A textile yarn or thread,
combined, coated, or
covered with a shiny
substance, often
metallic, (e.g.
aluminium,
occasionally gold or
silver), to produce a
glittering or sparkling
effect. See also
Metallized yarn.
TINTING processes,
operations
Application of
whitening agents for
enhancing whiteness
of textile goods.
Application of
whitening agents for
enhancing whiteness of
textile goods.
TIP PRINTING A combination of
embossing and
printing.
A combination of
embossing and
printing. The embossed
section of the fabric is
printed.
TIP-SHEARED PILE z See under Pile in
carpet.
See under Pile in
carpet.
TIPPED I A descriptive term for
pile fabrics, usually
plushes, with long pile
A descriptive term for
pile fabrics, usually
plushes, with long pile,
where the final dyeing
process is applied only
to the tips or cut ends,
of the pile.
TIPPY WOOL v Wool in which the tip
portions of the fibres
Wool in which the tip
portions of the fibres
986
Word Category Short description Description
have been so
damaged by
weathering during
growth as to have
markedly different
dyeing properties.
have been so damaged
by weathering during
growth as to have
markedly different
dyeing properties.
TISSUE fabrics Term used to
describe a light
transparent or
translucent woven
cloth in any fibre.
Term used to describe
a light transparent or
translucent woven cloth
in any fibre. Usually
means one that has
body and is not soft or
floppy.
TISSUE TAFFETA I The finest, lightest
taffeta
The finest, lightest
taffeta. It is almost
transparent and
normally only used for
underwear or for lining
fine garments
TITER o Weight per unit length
of yarn.
1. Weight per unit
length of yarn.
2. Number of filaments
in reeled silk thread.
TITRE NUMBER fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A generic term for
units of linear density.
A generic term for units
of linear density. The
corresponding term for
units of specific length
is count number
TJ ANTING #Error #Error
TJ AP BLOCK F A wax printing block,
made entirely of metal
strips and are open at
the back.
A wax printing block,
made entirely of metal
strips and are open at
the back. It was
introduced in J ava to
facilitate speedier
production.
TO TAKE DRESS See under Dress. See under Dress.
TOBACCO CLOTH I See under
Cheesecloth.
See under
Cheesecloth.
TOBY PRINTING processes,
operations
A method used in
block printing
A method used in block
printing when the
different colour areas
of a design are clearly
separated from each
other; the colours are
applied by means a
divided sieve and are
987
Word Category Short description Description
thus printed at the
same time from one
block.
TOE BLOCK z A reinforced toe
section of a stocking.
A reinforced toe
section of a stocking.
TOE CLOSING The closing of the toe
opening in knitted
hosiery.
The closing of the toe
opening in knitted
hosiery. It may be
closed in the knitting or
it may be sewn closed.
TOILE I z French for fabric. 1. French for fabric.
2. A trial garment that
tests the shape,
dimensions and
finishes of the design
and enables altera-
tions to be made at an
early stage.
TOILE DE J OUY See J ouy print. See J ouy print.
TOM-TOM F Also known as Dolly. Also known as Dolly. A
machine in which lace,
hosiery, or knitwear are
subjected to the action
of free-falling beaters
while immersed in a
detergent solution and
carried in a moving
trough.
TOMMY DOOD F A machine used for
back-filling.
A machine used for
back-filling.
TONE o See Hue See Hue
TONE-TO-TONE PRINT processes,
operations
A fabric printed in two
tones of the same
colour.
A fabric printed in two
tones of the same
colour.
TOP v An indefinitely long
assembly of staple
fibres, substantially
parallel and without
twist, and capable of
being drafted.
An indefinitely long
assembly of staple
fibres, substantially
parallel and without
twist, and capable of
being drafted. The
package of slivers that
is the starting material
for worsted and some
other drawing systems.
1. TOP IN WORSTED
PROCESSES: A sliver
in which the fibres have
988
Word Category Short description Description
been parallelized, and
usually combed. See
also Top in wool.
2. TOP IN MAN-MADE
FIBRES OR TOW TO
TOP PROCESS: A
sliver obtained by
drafting, along with
breaking or cutting a
multifilament tow.
3. TOP IN WOOL: A
continuous untwisted
strand of wool fibres
from which the shorter
fibres or no-ils have
been removed by
combing.
TOP AND BOTTOM FEED F In sewing machine, a
feed mechanism
comprising of a
feeding foot working
in unison with a drop
feed.
In sewing machine, a
feed mechanism
comprising of a feeding
foot working in unison
with a drop feed. Also
called Upper and under
feed.
TOP AND BOTTOM
THREAD TRIMMER
F In sewing machine, a
device fitted to it,
which cuts the needle
threads and under-
threads after sewing.
In sewing machine, a
device fitted to it, which
cuts the needle threads
and under-threads after
sewing.
TOP DYED processes,
operations
Wool fibre dyed in the
form of top
Wool fibre dyed in the
form of top and then
processed in the
coloured condition.
TOP SIDE z In trousers, the front
section extending
from the trouser-
bottom to the waist
band and between the
inside and side
seams.
In trousers, the front
section extending from
the trouser-bottom to
the waist band and
between the inside and
side seams.
TOP STOP w In zippers, a part
affixed between or
immediately above
the interlocking
elements
In zippers, a part
affixed between or
immediately above the
interlocking elements,
on either or both
stringers, to prevent
the slider from leaving
the chain.
989
Word Category Short description Description
TOPHAM BOX F See under Box-
spinning.
See under Box-
spinning.
TOPPING processes,
operations
The application of
further colourant
The application of
further colourant not
necessarily of the
same hue or class to a
dyed substrate in order
to adjust the latter to
the desired final colour.
TOPSTITCHING A line or lines of
stitching that shows
on the face side in the
finished article
A line or lines of
stitching that shows on
the face side in the
finished article, stitched
at a uniform distance
from a seam to
reinforce it or for
decoration, usually
stitched while having
the face side of the
fabric up.
TORCHON LACE I Coarse lace made
from cotton or linen
thread, often with a
shell design.
Coarse lace made from
cotton or linen thread,
often with a shell
design. Is inexpensive
and not hardwearing,
due to the fact that the
threads are loosely
twisted and it is quickly
made. Used for mats
and decorations on
clothes.
TORN SELVEDGES t Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Fabrics
which are not
presentable because of
selvedge ends missing,
uneven tying-in of
broken ends, knots and
slubs; often caused by
generally poor work on
the part of the weaver.
TORN SIZE o The dimensions of a
sheet or pillow case
before hemming.
The dimensions of a
sheet or pillow case
before hemming.
TORQUE o A moment (of forces),
which produces or
tends to produce
rotation or torsion.
A moment (of forces),
which produces or
tends to produce
rotation or torsion.
When used in
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Word Category Short description Description
describing the
performance or
characteristic of a yarn,
refers to that
characteristic which
tends to make it turn on
itself as a result of
twisting.
TORQUE YARN v A textured filament
synthetic yarn made
by imparting twist
(torque) in the S or
Z direction.
1. A textured filament
synthetic yarn made by
imparting twist (torque)
in the S or Z
direction.
2. A stretch yarn that,
when permitted to hang
freely, rotates in the
direction of the
unrelieved torque
resulting from previous
deformation. See also
Non-torque yarn and
Stretch yarn.
TORSION o The twisting of one
end of a body with
respect to the other.
The twisting of one end
of a body with respect
to the other. See also
Residual torsion.
TOTAL CLO o The intrinsic clo plus
the thermal resistance
from the air boundary.
The intrinsic clo plus
the thermal resistance
from the air boundary.
See also Clo.
TOTAL CROTCH LENGTH z Garment-related term. Garment-related term.
See under Garment
sizing system.
TOTAL ELONGATION (TE) z In rope, the entire
elongation when
placed under a given
strain.
In rope, the entire
elongation when
placed under a given
strain.
TOTAL VERTICAL TRUNK
LENGTH
z Garment-related term. Garment-related term.
See under Garment
sizing system.
TOUCH AND CLOSE
FASTENERS
w Also called Hook and
loop fasteners, Self-
fastening tape
fasteners.
Also called Hook and
loop fasteners, Self-
fastening tape
fasteners. A fastener
comprising two tapes,
both being pile fabrics.
The hook tape has a
991
Word Category Short description Description
pile made from
polyamide or polyester
monofilament with
hook-shaped ends and
the loop component
has a pile or multi-
filament yarn. On
presenting one to the
other, the hooks
engage in the loops,
forming a secure
closure that can be
separated by a peeling
action from either end
TOUGHNESS general That property of a
material by virtue of
which it can absorb
work
That property of a
material by virtue of
which it can absorb
work.
There is, therefore, an
overall decrease in
length but an increase
in bulk
TOW v IN CONTINUOUS
FILAMENTS. A large
number of continuous
filaments assembled
without substantial
twist, intended to be
cut or stretch-broken
for use in staple fibre
form.
1. IN CONTINUOUS
FILAMENTS. A large
number of continuous
filaments assembled
without substantial
twist, intended to be
cut or stretch-broken
for use in staple fibre
form.
2. IN FLAX. Any
substantially clean fibre
of less than scutched
length.
3. IN BAST FIBRES,
the short fibres
removed by hacking.
4. IN MAN-MADE
FIBRES, a twistless
multifilament strand
suitable for conversion
into staple fibres or
sliver, or for direct
spinning into yarn. See
also Spinning-4.
TOW BREAKING
MACHINES
F These machines
break the tow by
These machines break
the tow by stretching it,
992
Word Category Short description Description
stretching it, until it
gives way at the
weaker places.
until it gives way at the
weaker places.
Different tensioning
and spreading devices
ensure that a regular
sheet is fed into the
machine. In the pre-
stretching zone the
material is brought
close to its breaking
point and then fed to
the breaking zone.
Here the stretching is
continued until
breaking occurs, and
the tow is transformed
into short pieces of
staple.
The material is then
usually passed through
a crimping-box to give
the sliver more
cohesion and to aerate
it. Often the slivers are
steamed to bring about
shrinkage, and this can
produce high-bulk
material.
The material is then
usually passed through
a crimping-box to give
the sliver more
cohesion and to aerate
it. Often the slivers are
steamed to bring about
shrinkage, and this can
produce high-bulk
material.
For the Turbo stapler, a
machine of this type,
the sequence of
operations, may
therefore be listed as 1.
Tensioning, 2.
Spreading, 3.
Stretching, 4. Breaking,
5. Crimping, and 6.
Collecting.
The sliver will then be
993
Word Category Short description Description
processed to produce
the spun yarn.
The Two processes of
cutting and breaking
are quite different and
therefore the products
will vary. For example,
the breaking resistance
of the material will be
increased by the
stretch-breaking
method, because the
material will already
have given way at its
weakest point. After
being cut by the
converter the ends are
crushed and this
makes it more difficult
for the fibres to slide
over one another
during spinning. There
are also other
variations such as the
range of the fibre
lengths ob-tained and
the manufacturer,
therefore, consider
carefully the type of
yarn he wishes to
make, bear-ing in mind
the materials to be
processed, while
deciding which method
to use.
However, one thing is
certain; man-made
staple fibres will be
processed more and
more on these
machines, replacing
the traditional
operations of carding
and combing.
TOW CUTTING MACHINES F These machines are
often known as
converters.
These machines are
often known as
converters. They are
fed with a sheet, made
up of several tows, and
994
Word Category Short description Description
this is cut by a helical
blade. As the blade
rotates it is strongly
pressed against a
smooth cylinder called
an anvil. It is possible
for the helical blade to
cut obliquely across the
tows; the ends of the
fibres are not adjacent
across the sheet and
this is known as bias
cutting. After cutting,
the sheet of fibres is
fed to a shuffling
device, which staggers
the cut fibres so as to
obtain a sliver which is
then collected in a can.
The sequence of
operations for this type
of converter can be
summarized as follows:
1. Tensioning, 2.
Spreading, 3. Cutting,
4. Shuffling, 5.
Crimping, and 6.
Collecting.
Another machine,
which is versatile but
also based on the
principle of cutting, is
the Pacific Con-verter.
This can be used to
produce high-bulk yarn.
Some of the material is
first passed through a
heat-stretching zone,
but some material
bypasses this area and
the final sliver is a
mixture of two kinds of
staple. That which has
been heat-stretched
will have a far greater
shrinkage potential
than the rest. Thus on
steaming, relaxation of
some of the staple
995
Word Category Short description Description
takes place readily and
the rest is bulked out.
There is, therefore, an
overall decrease in
length but an increase
in bulk.
High-bulk spun yarn
can be produced in this
way from acrylic yarns.
TOW-TO-TOP
CONVERSOIN
The process by which
the tow is cut or
broken to form staple
and then drafted into
a sliver as a
continuous process.
The process by which
the tow is cut or broken
to form staple and then
drafted into a sliver as
a continuous process.
Man-made staple fibre
is produced for
spinning on the
standard textile
spinning machinery.
For this purpose the
tows of continuous
threads from the
spinnerets are cut into
staple of the required
length. In the tow, the
fibres are in the form of
regular filaments
without any
entanglement, but
when converted into
staple fibres these are
packed into bales and
they become
entangled. The spin-
ner then has to card
and comb the mass of
fibres in order to
straighten them out
again before a yarn
can be produced.
It would obviously be
desirable to convert the
rope of continuous
filaments directly into a
sliver of stapled fibres.
Machines are available
to do this and the tow
is processed directly
into the so-called
996
Word Category Short description Description
combed tops. The
process is, naturally,
referred to as tow-to-
top conversion.
The tow-to-top
machines can be
considered in two
groups; those that
produce the staple by
cutting, and those
which obtain the staple
by stretch-breaking. It
is important to be able
to control the length of
the staple produced
and essential that the
ends of the fibres in the
sliver are staggered. In
this way the sliver is
held together and
drafting can
subsequently be
carried out
satisfactorily. If all the
ends of the fibres were
at the same point along
the length of sliver,
obviously it would not
hold together and it
would be almost
impossible to handle
the material.
TOWEL garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
An absorbent textile
product used for
drying or wiping.
An absorbent textile
product used for drying
or wiping.
is made with loop pile
on one or both sides
generally covering the
entire surface or
forming stripes,
checks, or other
patterns.
TOWELING fabrics Any of several types
of fabric intended for
use as towels;
Any of several types of
fabric intended for use
as towels; specifically,
fabric woven in long
pieces and then cut to
the desired sizes, as
distinguished from
997
Word Category Short description Description
cloth woven in towel
lengths with borders or
other decorations.
Cotton or linen is
generally used and the
fabric is often relatively
coarse in texture with
low-twist yarns that are
absorbent.
tween processes or
between mill and
customer.
TPP RATING I See Thermal
protective
performance rating.
See Thermal protective
performance rating.
TRACEABILITY o The ability to trace the
history, application or
location of an item or
activity
The ability to trace the
history, application or
location of an item or
activity, or similar items
or activities, by means
of recorded
identification.
TRACING w See Separation. See Separation.
TRACK SUIT FABRIC I Synthetic knit with
slightly sueded
backing made from
polyester or polyester
and cotton.
Synthetic knit with
slightly sueded backing
made from polyester or
polyester and cotton.
Medium thickness, and
in plain bright colors,
black and white. For
track suits, anoraks,
trousers, shorts, and
for childrens clothes.
TRACK SUIT J ERSEY I Slightly open knit
fabric, soft and has
fleecy back.
Slightly open knit
fabric, soft and has
fleecy back. Plain,
often dull, colors
usually with marled
effect. Generally acrylic
or polyester with
viscose. Fabric is soft
and comfortable. Loses
shape and is not very
hardwearing compared
with the original, firmer
track suit fabrics. Used
for sports and leisure
wear, including
998
Word Category Short description Description
jumpsuits and
childrens clothes.
TRADE MARK o A word, letter, device,
or symbol used in
connection with
merchandise
A word, letter, device,
or symbol used in
connection with
merchandise and
alluding distinctly to the
origin or ownership of
the product to which it
is applied.
TRADE NAME o A name given by a
manufacturer or
merchant to a product
to distinguish it as one
produced or sold by
that manufacturer.
A name given by a
manufacturer or
merchant to a product
to distinguish it as one
produced or sold by
that manufacturer. It is
called, more
accurately; a trade
mark name and may
be protected as a
trademark
TRADITIONAL SELVEDGE I See under Selvedge. See under Selvedge.
TRAFFIC SURFACE I The durability,
abrasion and
performance of the
textile floor coverings.
The durability, abrasion
and performance of the
textile floor coverings.
The public walks on the
surface of a rug or
carpet so that these
features can be
discerned.
TRAM v Raw silk yarns
doubled and twisted
with a low number of
turns per inch
Raw silk yarns doubled
and twisted with a low
number of turns per
inch; generally used as
weft.
TRAMISTATIC F A term to describe a
loom with a stationary
weft supply.
A term to describe a
loom with a stationary
weft supply.
TRAMMAGE t Also called Uneven
hand.
Also called Uneven
hand. Fabric defect in
crpes. A puckered
area in which a weft
yarn has twist running
in the same direction
for several picks
instead of alternating
S and Z twist.
999
Word Category Short description Description
TRANSFER In textile processing,
movement of a
chemical, dye or
pigment between
fibres within a
substrate or between
substrates.
In textile processing,
movement of a
chemical, dye or
pigment between fibres
within a substrate or
between substrates.
TRANSFER PRINTING A textile-printing
method
A textile-printing
method in which the
pattern is printed on to
a paper web and
transferred by a
process of sublimation
(under heat and
pressure) to fabrics
mainly of man-made
fibre.
TRANSFER STITCH Transference of loops
during the knitting
cycle
Transference of loops
during the knitting cycle
to form a hole or lace
design or to create a
structural change from
rib to single knit and
vice versa, or to shape
a sweater.
TRANSMISSION ROPE z A rope made of six
strands of seven
wires with a hemp
center
A rope made of six
strands of seven wires
with a hemp center,
used for transmitting
power, as in driving line
shafts.
TRANSPARENT VELVET I Lighter in weight than
chiffon velvet, soft
and silky with good
draping qualities.
Lighter in weight than
chiffon velvet, soft and
silky with good draping
qualities. Made with a
silk viscose or acetate
backing and viscose or
nylon pile.
TRANSPORTATION
FABRIC
I The fabric covering
for seats in buses,
railway cars,
airplanes, and other
vehicles.
The fabric covering for
seats in buses, railway
cars, airplanes, and
other vehicles.
Specifications for this
fabric include excellent
resistance to abrasion,
soiling, strain and light,
and in some cases
flammability.
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Word Category Short description Description
TRAPPED TWIST YARN v Filament yarn
textured by twisting
two yarns around the
same axis
Filament yarn textured
by twisting two yarns
around the same axis,
heat-setting and then
untwisting to form two
distinct textured yarns.
TRASH v t The non-fibrous
matter present in
bales of raw cotton
other than abnormal
items, such as stone,
timber, and pieces of
old iron, etc.
1. The non-fibrous
matter present in bales
of raw cotton other
than abnormal items,
such as stone, timber,
and pieces of old iron,
etc. The main
component of trash is
chaff, dirt in the form of
soil or sand and
sometimes, foreign
(unwanted) fibres such
as lengths of sisal, jute,
hemp, and grass.
2. Also called Mote
trash. Defect, in cotton
yarn and fabric.
Undeveloped seed,
motes, small bits of
seed coat, or particles
of leaf appearing as
specks.
TRASH CONTENT v
The ratio of the mass
of trash in a sample of
raw cotton fibres to the
total mass of the
sample. The ratio is
usually expressed as a
percentage.
TRAVANCORE FLAX I Synonym for Sunn. Synonym for Sunn.
TRAVELLER F The metal or plastic
component through
which yarn passes on
its way to from the
ballooning eye to the
package surface in
ring spinning or
twisting.
The metal or plastic
component through
which yarn passes on
its way to from the
ballooning eye to the
package surface in ring
spinning or twisting. It
is mounted on a ring
and is dragged round
by the yarn.
TRAVERSE v F The distance moved 1. The distance moved
1001
Word Category Short description Description
by the yarn along the
package during
winding.
by the yarn along the
package during
winding. The
movement of an end or
ends parallel to the
axis of rotation, which
spaces the turns
across the yarn
package. See also
Trav-erse length.
2. An adjective to
describe a type of
mechanism used in
winding.
TRAVERSE LENGTH v The distance, parallel
to the axis of a yarn
package, between
points of reversal of
the direction of
traverse.
The distance, parallel
to the axis of a yarn
package, between
points of reversal of the
direction of traverse.
TREADLE LOOM F A weaving machine
activated by a treadle
connected to the main
shaft.
A weaving machine
activated by a treadle
connected to the main
shaft.
TREATED FABRIC fabrics A fabric to which a
finish has been
applied
A fabric to which a
finish has been applied
in order to change the
original level of a
specific property or
properties, e.g. water
repellence, crease
resistance, soil
resistance.
TREBLE CLOTH fabrics A layerd fabric made
with three warps and
three fillings, together
with a binder thread.
A layerd fabric made
with three warps and
three fillings, together
with a binder thread. A
stitching holds the
layers in place. Used
for industrial fabrics
and overcoatings. Also
called Triple cloth
TRELLIS WORK Embroidery similar to
Roman cut work.
Embroidery similar to
Roman cut work. In
trellis work, the floral
figures climb over a
trellis-like design
TRIACETATE v Triacetate differs from Triacetate differs from
1002
Word Category Short description Description
acetate in that, they
have a crisper handle,
resemble more truly
the easy-care
synthetics, absorb
less water than
acetate, are more
stable, wash well and
dry rapidly and lose
less strength when
wet.
acetate in that, they
have a crisper handle,
resemble more truly
the easy-care
synthetics, absorb less
water than acetate, are
more stable, wash well
and dry rapidly and
lose less strength when
wet. A heat treatment
is employed on
garments for durable
pleating and creasing.
See also Acetate.
TRIAXIAL LOOM F A loom, which lays in
yarn in three
directions instead of
the usual two. See
Triaxial weaving.
A loom, which lays in
yarn in three directions
instead of the usual
two. See Triaxial
weaving.
TRIAXIAL WEAVING fabrics A weaving operation
that goes one step
beyond the
conventional weaving
A weaving operation
that goes one step
beyond the
conventional weaving,
by introducing a third
end into the operation.
Two sets of warp ends
and one weft are
interlocked at 60
angle.
TRICEL v Trade name of a
triacetate fibre, which
is used on its own and
mixed with other
fibres to make a wide
range of fabrics of
varying types and
weights, both woven
and knitted.
Trade name of a
triacetate fibre, which is
used on its own and
mixed with other fibres
to make a wide range
of fabrics of varying
types and weights,
both woven and
knitted. The fibre
resists dirt, is fairly
crease-resistant and is
harder wearing than
acetate although
similar in appearance.
TRICEL SUEDE I Soft, supple knit fabric
with pile surface and
sometimes also may
be punched.
Soft, supple knit fabric
with pile surface and
sometimes also may
be punched. Used for a
variety of fabrics sports
1003
Word Category Short description Description
and leisure clothes.
TRICEL VELOUR I Tricel yarn knitted in
combination with
nylon or polyester
results in a rich pile
fabric that is soft and
comfortable to wear.
Tricel yarn knitted in
combination with nylon
or polyester results in a
rich pile fabric that is
soft and comfortable to
wear. Fabrics dye well
and therefore carry rich
strong colors well and
also black. Pale colors
tend to look patchy but
are very attractive.
Used for jumpsuits,
skirts, casual clothes,
leisure wear and in
heavier weight for
drapes and furnishings.
TRICELON v Trade name for a
blended yarn of tricel
and nylon.
Trade name for a
blended yarn of tricel
and nylon. The
combination of these
two yarns produces a
soft fabric with superb
draping qualities.
Fabrics made from
Tricelon are generally
lightweight and used
for dresses, blouses
and lingerie. Fabrics
may be woven or
knitted. Tricelon makes
an ideal fabric for
permanent pleating.
TRICHROMATIC SYSTEM See under Colour
measurement.
See under Colour
measurement.
TRICOMPONENT FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A fibre consisting of
three polymers
A fibre consisting of
three polymers which
are chemically
different, physically
different, or any
combination of such
differences.
TRICOT fabrics The most common,
and the simplest,
warp-knit fabric.
The most common,
and the simplest, warp-
knit fabric. Lightweight,
run-resistant, warp knit
fabric characterized by
vertical ribs or wales on
1004
Word Category Short description Description
the right side and slight
crosswise ribs on the
wrong side. The fabric
has give and is
comfortable. Almost
any fibre can be made
into tricot, including
silk, polyester, nylon
and viscose. Used for
underwear, nightwear
and lining fabric. Also
used in nylon for
sheets, lightweight
furnishings and plush
fabric.
TRICOT STITCH A very simple
crocheted needlework
in plain, straight
pattern
A very simple
crocheted needlework
in plain, straight pattern
TRICOT WARP-KNITTING
MACHINE
F A warp-knitting
machine generally
using bearded or
compound needles
mounted vertically, or
nearly so, in which the
fabric is supported
and controlled by
sinkers.
A warp-knitting
machine generally
using bearded or
compound needles
mounted vertically, or
nearly so, in which the
fabric is supported and
controlled by sinkers.
The fabric is removed
from the knitting point
at approximately 90 to
the needles movement
(nearer the horizontal
than the vertical).
TRICOTINE I The name implies a
knit fabric, but it is in
fact a twill-weave
dress fabric woven as
double twill, giving a
pair of diagonal lines
on the right side.
The name implies a
knit fabric, but it is in
fact a twill-weave dress
fabric woven as double
twill, giving a pair of
diagonal lines on the
right side. May be
made from any fibre,
including worsted,
polyester, acrylic,
viscose.
TRILAM I A plain weave
laminated fabric,
made from polyester
scrim coated with
A plain weave
laminated fabric, made
from polyester scrim
coated with polyester
1005
Word Category Short description Description
polyester film, for use
as sails.
film, for use as sails.
TRILOBAL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A fibre with a modified
cross-section
A fibre with a modified
cross-section having
three lobes like a
clover leaf.
TRIM processes,
operations
To cut off a portion of
a textile material.
To cut off a portion of a
textile material.
TRIM PRESSING See under Boarding. See under Boarding.
TRIMMINGS w The comopnents of a
garment, other than
the main fabrics and
sewing threads.
The comopnents of a
garment, other than the
main fabrics and
sewing threads.
TRIPLE CLOTH I See Treble cloth. See Treble cloth.
TRIPLE SHEER I A tightly woven sheer
fabric with a fine, flat
surface; almost
opaque.
A tightly woven sheer
fabric with a fine, flat
surface; almost
opaque. Both warp and
weft yarns are usually
given extra twist. Used
for womens dresses,
blouses and evening
wear.
TRIPLE VOILE I See Ninon See Ninon
TRISTIMULUS VALUES The amounts of three
defined primaries
The amounts of three
defined primaries
(usually blue, red, and
green) required to be
mixed additively to
match the colour of the
object, under defined
conditions.
TRIVINYL FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured fibre
from a synthetic
terpolymer of
cyanoethane
(acrylonitrile)
A manufactured fibre
from a synthetic
terpolymer of
cyanoethane
(acrylonitrile), a
chlorinated vinyl
monomer and a third
vinyl monomer, none of
which represents as
much as 50% of the
total mass.
TROPICAL SUITING I A light weight, plain-
weave suiting for
mens and womens
summer wear.
A light weight, plain-
weave suiting for mens
and womens summer
wear. It has various
1006
Word Category Short description Description
weaves and is made of
a variety of fibres. See
also Tropical worsted.
TROPICAL WEIGHT I A yard of worsted
suiting weighs from
198 to 312 grams
A yard of worsted
suiting weighs from
198 to 312 grams. A
lightweight fabric
suitable for warm
climates.
TROPICAL WORSTED I A plain or fancy
weave worsted cloth,
very light in weight
and mainly in light
colours, beige and
white.
A plain or fancy weave
worsted cloth, very light
in weight and mainly in
light colours, beige and
white. An excellent
cloth for hot weather as
the high-twist worsted
yarn makes it cool. It
pleats and creases
well. Used for mens
suits, womens suits,
trousers, etc.
TROPUNTO z A type of quilting in
which the design is
outlined with single
stitches
A type of quilting in
which the design is
outlined with single
stitches and padding is
drawn from the back,
filling each part of the
design separately,
giving a high relief
effect.
TROUGH F See Beck. See Beck.
TROUGHED SHED I In weaving, a warp
shed in which two
sheets that form the
shed are under
different tensions in
order to improve
cover.
In weaving, a warp
shed in which two
sheets that form the
shed are under
different tensions in
order to improve cover.
TROUSER z A two-legged
outerwear garment,
covering the body
from the waist down
to the ankles and is
divided so as to make
a separate covering
for each leg.
A two-legged
outerwear garment,
covering the body from
the waist down to the
ankles and is divided
so as to make a
separate covering for
each leg. Trousers may
be made up with pleats
in the top side and
1007
Word Category Short description Description
described as pleated
fronts; otherwise they
are known as plain
fronted trouser.
TROUSER BINDING w See Kick tape. See Kick tape.
TROUSER BRAID w A flat, usually black,
braided narrow fabric
with closely interlaced
threads at the sides
and more open
interlacing in the
centre, having a core
thread on each side of
a more loosely
constructed centre.
A flat, usually black,
braided narrow fabric
with closely interlaced
threads at the sides
and more open
interlacing in the
centre, having a core
thread on each side of
a more loosely
constructed centre. It is
usually made of
continuous filament
yarn and used on
formal dress.
TRUE v The uniform diameter
of wool fibres
The uniform diameter
of wool fibres. See also
Untrue wool.
TRUE BIAS See under Bias
binding.
See under Bias
binding.
TRUE DRAW RATIO v See under Draw ratio. See under Draw ratio.
TRUE HEMP v See under Hemp. See under Hemp.
TRUE SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Silk produced by the
larvae of the moth
Bombyx mori.
Silk produced by the
larvae of the moth
Bombyx mori.
TRUE STITCH Sewing with a
threaded embroidery
needle so that the
ornamentation is the
same on both sides of
the fabric.
Sewing with a threaded
embroidery needle so
that the ornamentation
is the same on both
sides of the fabric.
TRUNNIONS w In zippers, the two
pivots at the end of
the pull that fit into the
bail.
In zippers, the two
pivots at the end of the
pull that fit into the bail.
TRUTH MARK I An identification mark
applied close to the
ends of a piece of
fabric by various
means, such as
weaving in a
contrasting colour of
yarn, using a marker
An identification mark
applied close to the
ends of a piece of
fabric by various
means, such as
weaving in a
contrasting colour of
yarn, using a marker
1008
Word Category Short description Description
pen, punching a logo
etc.
pen, punching a logo
etc. The purpose of the
mark is to show that
the piece has remained
intact between
processes or between
mill and cus-tomer.
TRY-ON z The individual fitting
of a garment for the
purpose of confirming
the size, shape and
fit, either before or
after the garment is
completed.
The individual fitting of
a garment for the
purpose of confirming
the size, shape and fit,
either before or after
the garment is
completed.
TUB SILK I Washable silk. Washable silk.
TUBE F v A holder or bobbin of
cylindrical shape used
as a core for a yarn
package of cylindrical
form.
1. A holder or bobbin of
cylindrical shape used
as a core for a yarn
package of cylindrical
form.
2. A cylindrical yarn
package formed by
winding on a tube.
TUBE TWIST v The smooth plied yarn
that has been twisted
through a compressor
The smooth plied yarn
that has been twisted
through a compressor;
the yarn generally is
composed of 8 or more
single yarns, as
distinguished from ring
twist.
TUBING fabrics Braided, knitted, or
woven fabric of
cylindrical form
Braided, knitted, or
woven fabric of
cylindrical form having
a width of 4 in. or more
(circumference of 8 in
or more).
TUBULAR FABRIC I See Tubing. 1. See Tubing.
2. A knitted tubular
fabric made on a
circular knitting
machine. Various kinds
are used for under-
wear and hosiery.
TUBULAR WELT z See under Welt. See under Welt.
TUBULAR YARN v See under Hollow-
filament yarn.
See under Hollow-
filament yarn.
1009
Word Category Short description Description
TUCK I z A lightweight fabric of
cotton, silk or man-
made fibre with pleats
running from selvedge
to sel-vedge
1. A lightweight fabric
of cotton, silk or man-
made fibre with pleats
running from selvedge
to sel-vedge and
formed with a separate
warp and a weft usually
heavier than that used
for the ground weave.
Used for shirts,
bloused, etc.
2. In twisted or plaited
rope, a free strand
placed between the
rope strands during
splicing.
TUCK STITCH A knitting stitch which
produces tuck effects
by having certain
needles hold more
than one stitch at a
time.
A knitting stitch which
produces tuck effects
by having certain
needles hold more than
one stitch at a time.
Used for underwear
and outerwear fabrics.
TUCK-IN SELVEDGE I See under Selvedge. See under Selvedge.
TUCKED SEAM A complex seam
formed on the inside
of the object with
neither raw edge
enclosed
A complex seam
formed on the inside of
the object with neither
raw edge enclosed,
having one visible line
of topstitching on the
face side and a visible
free folded edge (tuck).
A tucked seam is made
by the same steps as
the lapped seam,
except the topstitching
is farther from the fold
6 to 10 mm. (Compare
Lapped seam.)
TUCKING See also Fulling. A type of fulling
process in which the
fabric is soaked, slowly
heated to the boiling
point, and then slowly
cooled, heavily
shrinking and
thickening the cloth to
and extent that the
1010
Word Category Short description Description
individual yarns are
virtually imperceptible.
See also Fulling.
TUMBLE DRYING processes,
operations
A process carried out
on a textile article
after washing
A process carried out
on a textile article after
washing, with the
intention of removing
residual water by
treatment with hot air in
a rotating drum. A
method of drying
fabrics or garments in
hot air (up to 180 F)
with air circulating
through the articles for
30 to 40 minutes.
Sometimes a tumbler
with no heat also is
used. This method is
called tumble cold.
TURNBACK CHECKS fabrics A cotton fabric with
small, woven coloured
checks and solid
coloured borders
A cotton fabric with
small, woven coloured
checks and solid
coloured borders.
Made with single yarns,
with about 90 ends and
40 picks per square
inch; yarn sizes being
in the neighborhood of
20s.
TUSCAN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A fine yellow straw
obtained from the
tops of bleached
wheat stalks in
Tuscany, Italy.
A fine yellow straw
obtained from the tops
of bleached wheat
stalks in Tuscany, Italy.
Often woven in lace-
like patterns
TUSSAH SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also known as Wild
silk. A darker silk and
not easy to make
white, so colors are
usually cream and
dyed colors
Also known as Wild
silk. A darker silk and
not easy to make
white, so colors are
usually cream and
dyed colors. Fabrics
are thick and usually
plain or hopsack
weave. Some are like
hessian in weight but
softer. The yarn has an
uneven slub, which
1011
Word Category Short description Description
gives it a rough texture
to the cloth. Used for
suits, dresses, skirts,
and shirts. See also
Wild silk.
TUSSORE fabrics A fabric woven from
the coarse silk called
Tussah.
A fabric woven from
the coarse silk called
Tussah.
TWEED fabrics Fabric made from
strong quality spun
woollen yarns
Fabric made from
strong quality spun
woollen yarns,
somewhat coarse in
terms of comparative
yarn fineness and they
are rather tough in
handle; the wool
qualities being selected
for strength and
resilience rather than
softness. This term is
now applied to fabric in
a wide range of
weights and qualities
made from woollen
yarns in various
weaves and
sophisticated colour
effects. The one
exception to the
general description of
tweed is the Shetland
tweed, which is made
from soft wool of the
Shetland sheep which
is plucked from the
animal and not shorn.
Tweeds are used for
suitings and coatings
and this full-handling
resilient type of fabric
tailors beautifully and
wears very well. The
roughness of the wool
is sometimes too
uncomfortable and in
the past this has meant
extra lining, which
tends to add to the
weight and cost.
1012
Word Category Short description Description
However by the use of
bonding techniques the
scratchiness of tweed
can be eliminated and
the introduction of
lighter-weight qualities
has helped to
overcome objections
on heaviness.
TWILL fabrics A type of weave,
made by varying the
order of interlacing
the yarns
A type of weave, made
by varying the order of
interlacing the yarns,
so that diagonal lines
are produced and
repeats over three or
more ends and picks,
on the face of the
fabric. Any fibre can be
woven in various types
of twill weave.
TWILL DIRECTION fabrics The direction of a twill
is generally described
as a fabric is viewed
looking along the
warp.
The direction of a twill
is generally described
as a fabric is viewed
looking along the warp.
Twill right then refers
to the diagonal running
upwards to the right
[&], and the twill left to
the diagonal moving
upwards to the left [%].
By analogy with twist
direction in yarns, an
alternative method is to
describe twill right as
Z and twill left as S.
TWILL WEAVE fabrics One of the three basic
types of weave, the
other two being Plain
weave and Satin
weave.
One of the three basic
types of weave, the
other two being Plain
weave and Satin
weave. Can be
produced in a much
greater numerical
variety. These weaves
all possess the twill
characteristic, which is
the presence of
diagonal lines across
the fabric. The twill
1013
Word Category Short description Description
effect is produced by
the stepping one yarn
space to the right of
each successive weft
yarn interlacings (warp
interlacings, being
equal, also move
similarly). This
movement enables
yarns to be closed up
effectively to make a
compact but supple
fabric, but as in the
case of hopsack
looseness begins to
show if interlacings are
increased much more
than 3 yarns.
TWIN FABRICS fabrics Fabrics intended for
use in combination.
Fabrics intended for
use in combination.
TWIST fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The helical
configuration of fibres
or filaments in a yarn.
The helical
configuration of fibres
or filaments in a yarn.
The number of turns
about its axis per unit
of length observed in a
yarn or other textile
strand. This is
generally indicated as
T.P.I. (turns per inch)
or T.P.M (turns per
metre). It is also
measured by helix
angle in a structure of
known diameter.
TWIST ANGLE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The angle between
the path of a yarn
element and the yarn
axis
The angle between the
path of a yarn element
and the yarn axis
TWIST BALANCE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
In corded
constructions
In corded
constructions. The
relationship of primary
and final twist to each
other and to the cord
size such, that residual
torsional effects are
nullified.
TWIST LIVELINESS fibers, The tendency of a The tendency of a yarn
1014
Word Category Short description Description
filaments,
yarns
yarn to twist or untwist
spontaneously.
to twist or untwist
spontaneously.
Snarling of yarns
during processing and
spirality in knitted
fabrics are examples of
effects, which may be
caused by twist
liveliness. The direction
of twist liveliness or
torque, S or Z, is that of
the twist change which
takes place
spontaneously when
an end of yarn or
hanging loop is allowed
to rotate.
TWIST SETTING processes,
operations
A technique for fixing
(setting)
A technique for fixing
(setting) to prevent
snarling and kinking in
the yarn.
TWISTLESS SPINNING processes,
operations
A system of yarn
formation that relies
on the use of a
permanent or
temporary adhesive to
bond fibres together.
A system of yarn
formation that relies on
the use of a permanent
or temporary adhesive
to bond fibres together.
Where a temporary
adhesive is used it is
removed during fabric
finishing, and the yarn
(and fabric) strength is
then obtained through
lateral pressure
produced by the
interlacings in the
fabric. A similar fabric
construction can be
achieved by using wrap
spun yarns, which have
been produced with a
soluble binder. See
also Spinning
TWISTLESS YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn prepared
without twist in order
to obtain special
properties
A yarn prepared
without twist in order to
obtain special
properties, e.g.
increased softness and
dyeability.
1015
Word Category Short description Description
TWO-AND-TWO CHECK fabrics A check pattern
formed by arranging
both warp and weft
A check pattern formed
by arranging both warp
and weft with two
threads of one colour
alternating with two
threads of another
colour or white. The
same colours are used
in the weft. Plain
weave is used.
TWO-FOR-ONE TWISTING processes,
operations
A system, which
inserts two turns of
twist for each
revolution of a twisting
element.
A system, which inserts
two turns of twist for
each revolution of a
twisting element. This
is achieved by inserting
one turn of twist
between a stationary
feed package and
rotating disc and a
further turn between
the latter and a balloon
guide.
If doubling is involved,
either a single
assembly-wound
package or two
separate single-wound
packages may be used
as the supply. When
the single-wound
packages are joined
together, the system is
called Clip-cone two-
for-one twisting.
TWO-STAGE TWISTING processes,
operations
Also called Stage
twisting. A system of
producing yarn which
consists of two
stages:
Also called Stage
twisting. A system of
producing yarn which
consists of two stages:
(i) inserting a low level
of twist into a yarn or
yarns by ring twisting,
and (ii) taking the
product of (i) and
uptwisting to insert the
desired amount of
twist.
TWO-WAY STRETCH
YARNS
fibers,
filaments,
Also called Stage
twisting. A system of
1016
Word Category Short description Description
yarns producing yarn which
consists of two stages:
(i) inserting a low level
of twist into a yarn or
yarns by ring twisting,
and (ii) taking the
product of (i) and
uptwisting to insert the
desired amount of
twist.
Textured yarn in a
woven fabric provides
increased bulk and
comfort because both
warps and fillings are
textured-stretch.
TYRE TEXTILES general Textile materials that
are used in the
manufacture of rubber
tyres.
Textile materials that
are used in the
manufacture of rubber
tyres.
TYRE YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Yarn that is used in
the manufacture of
the textile carcase of
rubber tyres.
Yarn that is used in the
manufacture of the
textile carcase of
rubber tyres.

U

Word Category
Short
description
Description
ULTIMATE
FIBRES
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The most
minute units of
matter that can
be separated
from an organic
structure
The most minute units of matter that can
be separated from an organic structure
without ruining the structure.
ULTRAVIOLET
RADIATION
general Radiant energy Radiant energy for which the
wavelengths of the monochromatic
components are smaller than those for
visible radiation and more than about
100 mm
UMBRELLA
FABRICS
fabrics A wide range of
closely woven
fabrics with
tape selvedge,
used for
covering
A wide range of closely woven fabrics
with tape selvedge, used for covering
umbrellas. Silk, cotton, man-made fibres
and combinations of these are mainly
used. The material is generally given a
water-repellent finish. A very popular
1017
Word Category
Short
description
Description
umbrellas type is Gloria. Plastic film and coated
fabric are also used. In silk and man-
made fibre fabrics, taffeta is the most
important, although novelty weaves and
satin effects are often employed. The
tape selvedge is generally made with a
novelty weave, rib or satin stripe.
UNBALANCED
YARNS
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Yarns in which
there is
sufficient twist
to set up a
torque effect
Yarns in which there is sufficient twist to
set up a torque effect, so that the yarn
will untwist and re-twist in the opposite
direction.
UNBLEACHED fabrics In the grey, or
loom state
In the grey, or loom state
UNDERLAP processes,
operations,
fabrics
lateral
movements of
the guide bar
1. In warp-knitting, lateral movements of
the guide bar made on the side of the
needle remote from the hook or beard;
the amount of this movement is limited
only by mechanical considerations. See
also Lapping movement.
2. In a warp-knitted fabric, the
connection between stitches in
consecutive courses.
UNDERLAY accessories A cushion or
padding
material used
under rugs or
carpets
A cushion or padding material used
under rugs or carpets to give greater
resiliency and longer service.
UNDERPICK
LOOM
apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A loom in
which the
picking stick is
vertical
A loom in which the picking stick is
vertical and under the level of the shuttle
box.
UNDRESSED
FINISH
fabrics A napped
surface on
woollen or
worsted fabrics
A napped surface on woollen or worsted
fabrics that is so thick it shows the
weave only in some places. Semi-
finished goods have about half as much
nap as undressed-finish fabrics and
therefore the former fabrics show shine
quicker than do the latter.
UNDYED fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
In the natural
colour state;
yarn and fabric.
In the natural colour state; yarn and
fabric.
UNEVEN
SHRINKAGE
defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. A bowed, ballooned or
wavy, warpwise condition in the cloth,
which prevents it from lying flat on a
1018
Word Category
Short
description
Description
horizontal surface. Usually caused by
some error during the finishing of the
goods.
UNEVENNESS general variation in the
linear density
of a continuous
strand
In textiles, variation in the linear density
of a continuous strand of a strand.
UNFINISHED fabrics Fabric in the
loom state
Fabric in the loom state
UNGUMMED
SILK
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A silk from
which the
sericin or gum
has been
removed
A silk from which the sericin or gum has
been removed
UNICOLOURRED general Material dyed
in one colour.
Material dyed in one colour.
UNION COLOUR fabrics A colour of a
blended fabric
A colour of a blended fabric in which two
or more classes of fibres with different
dyeing properties are dyed (coloured to
the same shade)
UNION DYEING processes,
operations
A process of
dyeing textiles
A process of dyeing textiles containing
fibres having different dye affinities to
achieve the appearance of a uniform,
homogenous color. See also Cross-
dyeing
UNION FABRIC fabrics A fabric made
of the union of
two fibres
The term can mean two things. 1. A
fabric made of the union of two fibres
e.g. cotton and worsted.
2. A striped fabric made of two fibres
and then dyed; the fibres taking the dye
differently and hence producing a
colored stripe.
UNION YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A yarn made
by twisting
together yarns
of different
fibres.
A yarn made by twisting together yarns
of different fibres.
UNLEVELNESS defects the nonuniform
distribution of a
dye or
chemical
In dyeing and finishing, the nonuniform
distribution of a dye or chemical in or on
a substrate. (Compare Levelling and
Shading.)
UNROVING processes,
operations
The pulling out
of a row of
knitting or
seam stitching
The pulling out of a row of knitting or
seam stitching by disconnecting the
constituent loops in a chain reaction. All
weft knitted constructions will unrove
from the end last knitted and all chain
1019
Word Category
Short
description
Description
stitch seams will unrove from the end
last formed.
UNWEAVING processes,
operations
The act of
removing weft
threads to
correct
weaving faults
The act of removing weft threads to
correct weaving faults (picking-out) and
subsequent resetting of the fell to
correct position (pulling-back) before the
weaving machine is restarted. The terms
pulling-back and picking-out may also
be used to describe the whole operation.
UPLAND
COTTON
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A type of
cotton,
gossypium
hirsutum,
A type of cotton, gossypium hirsutum,
which forms the bulk of the worlds
cotton crop. It varies in staple length
from about 22 mm to about 32 mm. One
of the three main types of cotton grown
in the U.S., the other two being Sea
Island cotton and American-Egyptian
cotton.
UPTWISTING processes,
operations
A system of
twisting one or
more yarns
A system of twisting one or more yarns
by withdrawing them over-end from a
rotating package. If more than one yarn
is to be twisted, the yarns are first
assembly-wound on to a single uptwister
supply package.
Uptwisting forms the second stage in
two-stage twisting.
URENA fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A bast fibre
similar to jute,
from the plant
urena lobata.
A bast fibre similar to jute, from the plant
urena lobata.

V

Word Category Short description Description
VALUE OF
COLOUR
general The luminosity or
lightness or darkness
of a colour.
The luminosity or lightness or
darkness of a colour.
VANE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
In feathers, the
section that consists
of a solid, stiff
collection of barbs,
In feathers, the section that consists
of a solid, stiff collection of barbs, as
distinguished from the section near
the quill point that has soft, fluffy
barbs.
VANISHING
STRIPES
fabrics Woven broken-stripe
patterns
Woven broken-stripe patterns in
which the coloured yarns appear
alternately on the face of and back of
1020
Word Category Short description Description
the fabric.
VARIGATED
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A multicoloured yarn
commonly produced
by printing.
A multicoloured yarn commonly
produced by printing.
VAT DYES These are water-
insoluble dyes,
usually containing
keto groups
These are water-insoluble dyes,
usually containing keto groups, which
are normally applied to the fibre from
an alkaline aqueous solution of the
reduced enol (leuco) form, which is
subsequently oxidized in the fibre to
the insoluble form. Considered to be
the most resistant dyes to both
washing and sunlight.
Vat dyes are suitable for cotton, linen,
viscose rayon, and cuprammonium
rayon fibres, suitable for wool, and
silk fibres, but the usage is now
declining and not suitable for cellulose
triacetate fibres, except in fibre
blends.
VEGETABLE
DYE
A class of natural
dyes
A class of natural dyes such as
madder, indigo, which are obtained
from vegetable matter. Roots, bark,
berries, etc. are the source of some of
the oldest known dyes.
VEGETABLE
FIBRES
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Fibres of vegetable
origin.
Fibres of vegetable origin. They are
composed mainly of cellulose, and
number in the hundreds, e.g. cotton,
linen, Sisal, Coir, etc.
VEGETABLE
SILK
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A lustrous seed hair A lustrous seed hair obtained from the
seed pods of many species of plants
and trees. Common commercial
varieties are kapok and milkweed
fibre.
VEILING fabrics A large variety of
gauze-like materials
used for veils,
A large variety of gauze-like materials
used for veils, usually net, made from
silk, acetate, viscose, nylon. May be
woven, netted, knit or produced like
lace. Styles are plain, embroidered or
ornamented with elaborate patterns.
VEINING processes,
operations
A striped gauze effect
in a fabric
A striped gauze effect in a fabric
produced by omitting one or more
ends in the weave.
VELLUM fabrics A fine, very
transparent cotton
fabric
1. A fine, very transparent cotton
fabric used as a tracing cloth. 2. A
print cloth orsheeting fabric, piece
dyed before it is milled it is glazed on
1021
Word Category Short description Description
both sides and embossed.
VELOUR
FINISH
processes,
operations
A napped finish
applied to woollen
fabric
A napped finish applied to woollen
fabric, producing a dense, erect and
even nap resembling velvet
VELOURS fabrics Loosely applied to all
types of fabric with
nap or cut pile on one
side
Loosely applied to all types of fabric
with nap or cut pile on one side,
specifically, a cut pile cotton fabric
similar to cotton velvet but with a
thicker pile.
VELVET fabrics A warp pile fabric,
made with two warps,
a ground warp and a
pile warp
A warp pile fabric, made with two
warps, a ground warp and a pile
warp. A special weave construction
causes loops to be formed in the pile
warp which stand upright and which
can then be cut. The cut ends of the
pile yarn form the fabric surface. It is
woven with a warp pile and an
additional yarn. In production, wires
are inserted to lift this yarn and then,
when withdrawn, there are loops,
which are cut or not according to the
type of velvet being made. The
backing fabric, formed by the ground
warp and the weft, holds the loops in
place. Velvet can be woven perfectly
plain or a figured design can be
produced by forming pile patterns on
a flat ground, or by a contrast of cut
and uncut loops, or different heights
of pile. In Pann velvet, a design is
produced by embossing or crushing a
lustrous pile in different directions.
VELVETEEN fabrics weft pile cotton fabric
made to resemble
velvet.
Very often this name is given to velvet
made from cotton, but strictly
speaking it refers to a weft pile cotton
fabric made to resemble velvet.
VENETIAN fabrics Highly lustrous twill
cloth originally made
in Venice from silk.
Highly lustrous twill cloth originally
made in Venice from silk. When made
in satin weave from wool, it is the
fabric worn by pilgrims to the Middle
East. Venetian for mens suiting is
made from worsted yarn, but
womens clothes can be made from
synthetic varieties, usually polyester.
Expensive in any fibre. Use usually
confined to suits, skirts, trousers.
VENITIAN
FINISH
processes,
operations
Also called Roller
finish
Also called Roller finish. A process in
which rollers engraved with fine
1022
Word Category Short description Description
VESTING fabrics Any fabric used for
vests
Any fabric used for vests, especially
heavyweight fancy silks or
combinations of silk and wool or
cotton. This term covers a wide
variety of cloths used for mens fancy
vests and other dress purposes,
including bedford cord, piqu and a
variety of fabrics with wovendobby
figures, produced by extra warp or
weft, J acquard weaves, etc.
VICTORIA
SILK
fabrics A petticoat fabric of
silk-and-wool which is
guaranteed not to
rustle.
A petticoat fabric of silk-and-wool
which is guaranteed not to rustle.
VICUA I This is the finest, softeset
and most rare animal hair and makes
the most expensive and luxurious
cloth there is. It is produced by the
vicua, the smallest lama species,
which lives wild at very high altitudes
in the Ades mountains mainly in Peru;
the animal is threatened with
extinction.
VICUA
FINISH
processes,
operations
A finishing process
for worsted fabric
A finishing process for worsted fabric,
which gives it the appearance of
vicuna fabric. The surface of the cloth
is napped while damp and then fully
shrunk, producing a fine, short, erect
nap, totally obscuring the weave and
yarns.
VINAL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured fibre A manufactured fibre in which the
fibre-forming substance is any long
chain synthetic polymer composed of
at least 50 % by weight of vinyl
alcohol units and in which the total of
the vinyl alcohol units and any one or
more of the various acetal units is at
least 85% by weight of the fibre.
VINYLAL
FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A range of
manufactured fibres
A range of manufactured fibres
composed of synthetic linear
macromolecules of polyethenol
(polyvinyl alcohol) of differing levels of
acetalization.
VINYON fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A manufactured fibre A manufactured fibre in which the
fibre-forming substance is any long
chain synthetic polymer composed of
at least 85 % by weight of vinyl
chloride units.
VIRGIN
FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
The terms virgin or
new as descriptive
The terms virgin or new as
descriptive of any fibre or part thereof,
1023
Word Category Short description Description
yarns of any fibre shall not be used when the product or
part so described is not composed
wholly of new or virgin fibre which has
never been reclaimed from any spun,
woven, knitted, felted, braided,
bonded, or otherwise manufactured or
used product.
VISCOSE
FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
One of the earliest
types of artificial silk
One of the earliest types of artificial
silk. Regenerated cellulose fibre
obtained by the viscose process for
filament and discontinuous fibre. The
name viscose was derived from the
word viscous referring to the sticky
spinning solution, looking like clear
honey. The name rayon was the first
generic term devised to replace
artificial silk but is now has almost
gone out of use, being replaced by
viscose.
VISIBLE
LIGHT
general Visible light is only a
small section of a
much broader band
of electromagnetic
radiation
Light is a form of electromagnetic
radiation. Visible light is only a small
section of a much broader band of
electromagnetic radiation travelling as
a wave motion. The electromagnetic
spectrum covers wavelengths from
10-5 nm (cosmic rays) to wavelengths
greater than 109 nm (radio waves).
Within this spectrum the only visible
radiation is that within the wave length
range between 380 nm (ultra-violet)
and 780 nm (red), each wavelength
representing a different hue.
VIYELLA fabrics Trade name
describing an old,
established, classic
fabric.
Trade name describing an old,
established, classic fabric. However
at times the name Viyella is
generically used. The fabric still has
the same composition as original, i.e.
55 % lambs wool and 45 % cotton,
and it is a fine, soft, twill weave
material. Was first produced in 1893
in UK, and for a long time was used
almost exclusively for childrens
clothes, babywear and nightwear.
Later, it became a popular fabric for
blouses and shirts. Now, mostly due
to improved designs, it is used for top
fashion clothes.
VOILE fabrics A light, fine sheer A light, fine sheer fabric originally
1024
Word Category Short description Description
fabric originally made
from hard (high)
twisted combed
cotton yarns in plain
weave
made from hard (high) twisted
combed cotton yarns in plain weave
which give a crisp handle to the
fabric. Can be produced on plain,
striped or printed styles. Used for
blouses and dresses. Can also be
made in man-made fibres. Cotton and
also polyester with cotton, produces a
soft, comfortable, fabric used for
blouses, dresses, childrens clothes
and sometimes for mens shirts. Voile
is also made from silk. Wool voile is
referred to as Challis.
VOILE YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A special hard twist
yarn used for voile
fabrics.
A special hard twist yarn used for
voile fabrics. The twist varies, but is
more than regular twist and less than
crpe twist. Cotton voile yarns are
both single and two-ply, generally
1/50s and 1/100s, respectively. The
two-ply twist is given in the same
direction as the twist in the single
yarn.
VOILETTE fabrics A machine made
French lace with
powdered dots or fine
trailing line designs
A machine made French lace with
powdered dots or fine trailing line
designs on very fine mesh ground,
embroidered along the edge with a
light floral pattern.
VULCANIZED
FIBRE
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A cotton cellulose
material, layers of
which are bonded by
chemical treatment,
A cotton cellulose material, layers of
which are bonded by chemical
treatment, thus producing a laminated
plastic. Depending upon the end use
for which it is produced, this laminate
can be hard or soft. Its plastic
properties permit it to be formed, bent
or drawn into intricate shapes without
sacrificing strength. In textiles, used
for shuttles, in looms and bobbins.

W

Word Category Short description Description
WADDED
CLOTH
fabrics Fabric made with
heavy extra warp or
weft yarns,
Fabric made with heavy extra
warp or weft yarns, arranged to lie
between the face and back of the
cloth to add weight and bulk or
pad the fabric
1025
Word Category Short description Description
WAFFLE
WEAVE
fabrics Square or oblong-
shaped box formation
Square or oblong-shaped box
formations appear on both the
face and back of the fabric, by
allowing both warp and weft yarns
to float at fixed intervals.
WALE fabrics In knitted fabrics, an
intermeshed row of
loops along the
length of a weft
knitted fabric
In knitted fabrics, an intermeshed
row of loops along the length of a
weft knitted fabric. A column of
loops in successive courses that is
parallel with the loop axes. In
machine knitting it is the product
of one needle.
WALE SHAPING processes,
operations
Two and three
dimensional shaping
of knitted fabric
Two and three dimensional
shaping of knitted fabric achieved
by the movement of wales, which
are both terminated and
introduced to a pre-determined
plan.
WALL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
In cotton fibre, the
solid portion of the
cotton fibre,
In cotton fibre, the solid portion of
the cotton fibre, divided into two
parts; a thin skin on the surface of
the fibre, called primary wall and
the main part of the solid part of
the fibre composed of layers of
cellulose, called secondary wall
WARP fabrics The longitudinal
yarns in a woven
fabric.
The longitudinal yarns in a woven
fabric. Yarn intended for use or
used in the warp of a woven
fabric.
WARP
KNITTING
processes,
operations
Making fabric by a
method in which the
loops made from
each warp thread are
formed mainly along
the length of the
fabric
A number of threads arranged in
longitudinal and horizontal
direction are bound together by
formation of stitches. Making
fabric by a method in which the
loops made from each warp
thread are formed mainly along
the length of the fabric.
Manufactured on Tricot and
Raschel knitting machines. See
also under Knitting.
WARP PRINT processes,
operations
Warp yarns are
printed with the
design before
weaving.
Warp yarns are printed with the
design before weaving. Weft yarns
are either white or neutral colour,
so that a greyed effect is
produced.
WARP SHED apparatus,
equipage,
The opening through
which weft is inserted
The opening through which weft is
inserted in a loom.
1026
Word Category Short description Description
tools in a loom.
WARP SHEET fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A multitude of warp
yarns parallel to each
other.
A multitude of warp yarns parallel
to each other.
WARP YARN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Yarn intended for use
or used in warp of a
woven fabric
Yarn intended for use or used in
warp of a woven fabric
WARP- SATEEN fabrics A warp-faced sateen,
made with a
considerably greater
number of ends than
picks per inch.
A warp-faced sateen, made with a
considerably greater number of
ends than picks per inch.
Generally stronger than filling
sateen. Used mainly as base cloth
for coated fabrics, pillow and
mattress ticking and comforter
covering.
WARP-FACED
FABRICS
fabrics Fabrics with more
ends on the face than
picks
Fabrics with more ends on the
face than picks, the face formed
by the warp yarns.
WARPING processes,
operations
The production of a
sheet of parallel yarn
The production of a sheet of
parallel yarn in substantial long
lengths and evenly spaced, by
winding of warp yarns from
packages onto a warp beam
WASH processes,
operations
Any cleansing
operation done in
water or water
containing
detergents, alkalis or
builders
Any cleansing operation done in
water or water containing
detergents, alkalis or builders. A
typical wash cycle consists of
soaking, washing, spin drying, and
rinsing. In latest automatic
washing machines, load capacity,
bath temperature and cycle
timings, etc. are electronically
controlled.
WASH GOODS general Launderable textile
fabrics, manufactured
textile items or
garments
Launderable textile fabrics,
manufactured textile items or
garments
WASH-AND-
WEAR
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
A generic term
applied to garments
which satisfactorily
retain their original
neat appearance
A generic term applied to
garments which satisfactorily
retain their original neat
appearance after repeated wear
and suitable home laundering with
little or no pressing or ironing.
WASHABLE fabrics,
garments,
made-ups,
assemblies
Fabrics or garments
which may be
washed without
damage to color or
Fabrics or garments which may be
washed without damage to color
or shrinkage. Generally need
qualification on the basis of
1027
Word Category Short description Description
shrinkage. laboratory tests as to the type of
washing the material will
withstand: hand, home machine,
laundering, as well as
temperature.
WASHING processes,
operations
Treatment designed
to clean textile
articles in an aqueous
bath.
Treatment designed to clean
textile articles in an aqueous bath.
Washing includes all or some of
the following operations in
relevant combinations: Soaking,
pre-washing and proper washing
(carried out usually with heating,
mechanical action and in the
presence of detergents or other
products) and rinsing. Water
extraction, i.e. spinning or
wringing performed during and/or
at the end of the operations
mentioned above. These
operations may be carried out by
machine or hand
WASHING-OFF processes,
operations
Treatment of textile
material in water or
detergent solution
Treatment of textile material in
water or detergent solution to
remove substances employed in
previous process
WASTE
FACTOR
general In garment
manufacturing, the
amount of material
left when garment
portions are cut
In garment manufacturing, the
amount of material left when
garment portions are cut from
piece goods, knitted blanks or
shaped garment portions. The
waste isexpressed as a
percentage of the weight of the
original fabric.
WASTE SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The short, unreeled
filaments that are left
after the long cocoon
filaments have been
removed.
The short, unreeled filaments that
are left after the long cocoon
filaments have been removed.
These short noils are carded,
sometimes combed also and used
for manufacturing of spun silk
yarn.
WATER
HARDNESS
general Hardness of water is
expressed in
degrees indicating
number of parts of
calcium or
magnesium salts in
terms of calcium
carbonate present in
In ordinary water, salts of calcium
and magnesium are commonly
present in three forms, viz. (i)
bicarbonates, (ii) sulphates, and
(iii) chlorides. Bicarbonates
produce temporary hardness,
whereas sulphates and chlorides
produce permanent hardness.
1028
Word Category Short description Description
100,000 parts of
water
Hardness of water is expressed in
degrees indicating number of
parts of calcium or magnesium
salts in terms of calcium
carbonate present in 100,000
parts of water
WATER
RETENTION
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The moisture
remaining in and on a
fibre
The moisture remaining in and on
a fibre, after specified mechanical
treatments.
WATER
SOFTENER
A chemical added to
hardwater to bring
down its hardness
A chemical added to hardwater to
bring down its hardness, i.e. to
make the water soft. In most of the
textile wet-processings, water
hardness impairs the quality and
efficiency of the process.
WATER
SPOTTING
processes,
operations
An unattractive
physical change
produced on some
surfaces by a drop of
water
An unattractive physical change
produced on some surfaces by a
drop of water.
WATER-
PROOFING
fabrics Weaterproofed
fabrics shed water
under all pressures.
Fabrics for raincoats, table covers,
etc. are treated with non-ventile
finishes like rubber, oils, oil
mixtures, lacquer compounds or
synthetic resins. Weaterproofed
fabrics shed water under all
pressures.
WATER-
REPELLENT
fabrics A textile material,
which has the ability
to resist surface
wetting.
A textile material, which has the
ability to resist surface wetting.
Water repellency is established by
the natural properties of the fibre
and yarn, and by chemical
treatment of the fabric so that it
repels water.
WATER-
RESISTANT
fabrics A fabric which has
the ability to resist
wetting and
penetration of water.
A fabric which has the ability to
resist wetting and penetration of
water. A fabric may be water
resistant due to its construction,
due to fibres or yarns repelling
water or due to a finishing
treatment.
WATT SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A waste silk produced
in the cultivation of
the silkworm.
A waste silk produced in the
cultivation of the silkworm. It is
very irregular, and is therefore one
of the poorest grades, being
virtually a silk refuse
WAVE TWILL fabrics A twill weave with a A twill weave with a wave or
1029
Word Category Short description Description
wave or zigzag
design
zigzag design produced by
changing the direction of the twill
at intervals. The term is also
applied to the fabric
WEAR-
RESISTANCE
fabrics The ability of a fabric
to resist deterioration
The ability of a fabric to resist
deterioration due to normal or
excessive wear.
WEATHER
CLOTH
fabrics A fabric that will
withstand all types of
inclement weather
A fabric that will withstand all
types of inclement weather. Items
such as tarpaulin and canvas
come under this category.
WEATHER
RESISTANCE
general Ability of a material to
resist degradation of
its properties
Ability of a material to resist
degradation of its properties when
exposed to climatic conditions.
WEAVE fabrics The process of
forming a fabric on a
loom by interlacing
the warp and weft
threads with each
other.
The process of forming a fabric on
a loom by interlacing the warp and
weft threads with each other. The
weaves vary, depending on the
interlacing pattern, used in a
woven fabric. The fundamental
weaves are Plain weave, Twill
weave, and Satin weave. All other
weaves, no matter how intricate,
use one of these basic weaves in
their composition. There are many
variations on the basic principle,
which make possible many
different types of fabric surfaces
and fabric strengths. See also
Design.
WEAVE
ANALYSIS
processes,
operations
The physical analysis
of a fabric to
determine its
construction.
The physical analysis of a fabric to
determine its construction. Method
is usually with pick glass and pick
needle
WEAVE
EFFECT
fabrics The distinctive effect
developed in a fabric
by the weave
The distinctive effect developed in
a fabric by the weave, e.g. twill
weave effect, honeycomb weave
effect, etc.
WEAVE
PATTERN
general Also called Point
paper design and
Draft
Also called Point paper design
and Draft. A plan (usually drawn
on graph paper) used as a guide
in weaving operations that employ
harnesses.
WEAVE
REPEAT
fabrics The smallest number
of ends and picks
The smallest number of ends and
picks on which a weave-
interlacing pattern can be
represented.
1030
Word Category Short description Description
WEAVING processes,
operations
Process of making
cloth by interlacing
yarns at right angles
Process of making cloth by
interlacing yarns at right angles
according to a prescribed pattern.
WEFT fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Another name for
Filling. A yarn
intended for use in
the filling of a woven
fabric.
Another name for Filling. A yarn
intended for use in the filling of a
woven fabric. A yarn which is
interlaced with warp threads to
make a fabric. Yarn running from
selvedge to selvedge at right
angles to the warp in a woven
fabric. The widthways threads in a
woven fabric
WEFT-FACED
TWILL
fabrics A weave
characterised by
diagonal lines
produced by a series
of floats
A weave characterised by
diagonal lines produced by a
series of floats staggered in the
warp direction. Floats are normally
formed by the wefts.
WEFTLESS
FABRIC
fabrics a sheet of parallel
cords surrounded by
uncured rubber
compound.
As used in tyre building, a sheet of
parallel cords surrounded by
uncured rubber compound.
WEIGHT OF
FABRIC
fabrics The weight of fabric
may be expressed in
length per unit weight
The weight of fabric may be
expressed in length per unit
weight, or weight per unit length.
WEIGHTING processes,
operations
The finishing
application of certain
salts to a fabric
(mostly silk)
The finishing application of certain
salts to a fabric (mostly silk), in
order to increase its weight, give
more body, and also stiffen it for a
firmer drape and freedom from
slippage of yarns.
WET CLEANING processes,
operations
The aqueous process
for cleaning of heavily
soiled fabrics with
soap.
The aqueous process for cleaning
of heavily soiled fabrics with soap.
WET
DOUBLING
processes,
operations
The combination by
twisting together of
two or more single
yarns
The combination by twisting
together of two or more single
yarns which have been wetted out
by immersion in water or water
with suitable additives or
alternativelydamped by contact
with a transfer medium for similar
fluids, before the folding twist is
inserted to form a plied yarn.
WET FINISHING fabrics The application of
aqueous or other
liquid treatments in
one or more steps to
The application of aqueous or
other liquid treatments in one or
more steps to impart different
finishes to yarn or fabric. Some of
1031
Word Category Short description Description
impart different
finishes to yarn or
fabric.
the more important processes are:
beetling, bleaching, calendering,
chasing, decating, dyeing,
embossing, fulling, gassing,
lubricating, mercerization, milling,
printing, shrinking, sizing,
softening, sponging, stentering,
washing, waterproofing, etc. See
also Fabric finish
WET PICK-UP general The amount of liquid
and material carried
by the liquid, applied
to a textile.
The amount of liquid and material
carried by the liquid, applied to a
textile. Wet pick-up is usually
determined as a percentage of
either the dry or conditioned
weight of the textile prior to
processing.
WET
PROCESSING.
processes,
operations
A collective term for
processes included in
preparation, dyeing,
printing, and finishing
A collective term for processes
included in preparation, dyeing,
printing, and finishing in which the
textile material, is treated with a
liquid, normally water, or with
chemicals in solution or dispersion
in a liquid.
WET SOILING processes,
operations
The application of soil
from a liquid medium.
The application of soil from a
liquid medium.
WET
STRENGTH
general The strength of a
textile material
evaluated, when the
material is in a
thoroughly wet state
The strength of a textile material
evaluated, when the material is in
a thoroughly wet state
WET TWISTING processes,
operations
This is contrasted
with the standard dry
twisting
This is contrasted with the
standard dry twisting, cotton
yarns are passed beneath a roller
submerged in a water trough
before actually being twisted
together. The protruding fibres are
laid down by the water, thus
producing smoother yarn.
WHIPCORD fabrics Also called Artillery
twill. A firm, compact,
twill weave fabric
using bulky yarns to
give a raised look to
the twill ribs.
Also called Artillery twill. A firm,
compact, twill weave fabric using
bulky yarns to give a raised look to
the twill ribs. The prominent,
indented, steep twill is produced
by having the warp closely set and
the weft more open, and a special
weave in which the twill
interlacings are stepped-up two
weft yarns to give a steeper twill
1032
Word Category Short description Description
line. See diagram for effect
produced.
WHITE-BACK
DENIM
fabrics Another name for
standard denim
Another name for standard denim,
made with indigo blue dyed warp
and gray yarn filling.
WHITENESS general Whiteness is the
attribute
Whiteness is the attribute by
which an object colour is judged to
approach a preferred white
WHITNEY fabrics Overcoating cloth
made in wool.
Overcoating cloth made in wool.
Soft and thick with a face-finish on
the right side that produces a
wavy line effect. If made from
good quality woollen yarn, it is an
excellent and hard-wearing cloth.
WICKING fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Term used to
describe how
moisture can run
along a fibre which in
itself may be totally
non-absorbent.
Term used to describe how
moisture can run along a fibre
which in itself may be totally non-
absorbent. This helps with
evaporation of moisture into the
atmosphere. Although moisture
may sometimes appear to be
absorbed by the fabric, it is only
held within a spun, crimped or
textured fibre combination, resting
on the surface of the fibres. If
moisture is not absorbed the fabric
dries more quickly, i.e. the
moisture is wicked along the fibres
either to become evaporated or to
be absorbed by outer layers of
clothing.
WIDENING processes,
operations
In knitting. A term
used to describe the
movement of loops
outwards at the
selvedge of a piece of
fabric.
In knitting. A term used to
describe the movement of loops
outwards at the selvedge of a
piece of fabric. The result of such
movement is an increase in the
number of loops in the succeeding
course (usually by one loop), thus
widening the fabric. The term is
used both to describe the action
itself and the site of it.
WIDTH fabrics A transverse
measurement of a
material, i.e. from
side to side, or at
right angles to the
length.
A transverse measurement of a
material, i.e. from side to side, or
at right angles to the length. In
woven fabrics, width is the
distance from selvedge to
selvedge, in flat knit fabric, width
is measured from edge to edge, in
1033
Word Category Short description Description
ribbons, width is expressed by the
number of the line, or ligne, and in
the woollens and worsteds width
is expressed in quarters, one-
quarter measuring nine inches.
WIGAN fabrics Dull-finish, plain-
weave cotton cloth,
usually in dark
colours but
resembling sheeting.
Dull-finish, plain-weave cotton
cloth, usually in dark colours but
resembling sheeting. Main use is
as a backing or interfacing in
mens jackets, and coats.
WIGAN FINISH processes,
operations
A firm, starched,
plain-calendered
finish without lustre
A firm, starched, plain-calendered
finish without lustre, applied to
light weight sheetings and print
fabrics
WILD SILK fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
Fibres extruded by
insect larvae other
than Bombyx mori.
Fibres extruded by insect larvae
other than Bombyx mori. Wild silk
is produced by the
undomesticated varieties of
silkworm. These wild silkworm
lives outside on the leaves of
certain oak-like trees in China,
India and J apan. The best known
variety is Tussah silk, which has a
honey colour, is stronger than
cultivated silk, and is less readily
attacked by acid and alkali. It is
easily recognised under the
microscope by its uneven width,
fine lines along the length, cross
markings at intervals, and patches
of silk gum. It also appears to be
flatter.
WINCH apparatus,
equipage,
tools
A machine designed
for solution treatment
(washing, scouring,
dyeing, etc.) of piece
goods while in the
form of rope or
endless lengths.
A machine designed for solution
treatment (washing, scouring,
dyeing, etc.) of piece goods while
in the form of rope or endless
lengths. It consists of an open vat
for the solution and circular or
elliptical rollers which move the
fabric along. Most of the fabric is
in the bath in a slack or
tensionless state.
WIND
MULTIPLE
processes,
operations
The winding of two or
more ends onto a
tube or cone in
parallel form
The winding of two or more ends
onto a tube or cone in parallel
form so that the ends form a
compact, flat ribbon.
WINDBREAKER
CLOTH
fabrics A group of closely
woven fabrics used
A group of closely woven fabrics
used for sports jackets designed
1034
Word Category Short description Description
for sports jackets to prevent passage of air with a
minimum of porosity.
WOOD FABRIC fabrics A plain weave fabric
made with warp of
hard-spun cotton or
raw silk
A plain weave fabric made with
warp of hard-spun cotton or raw
silk and weft of several fine wood
shavings in fibrous form in one
shed altered with one or more
cotton yarns in the next shed. Was
used for hat frames, hat linings
and embroidery canvas.
WOOD PULP
YARNS
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Yarns made almost entirely of
paper made of wood pulp. The
yarns are made from long narrow
strips of thin, moistened paper,
which are loosely or tightly spunor
twisted. Hardening or softening
solutions can be used. Another
method starts with a moist web of
pulp as it comes from the press
rolls of the paper machine. It is
divided by various methods, into
strips or ribbons and twisted and
rolled into yarns. Used for flat-
weave carpets, summer floor
coverings, etc.
WOOL fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The fibrous covering of the sheep.
Wool is the second mostly used
natural clothing fibre. The fibre is
from the fleece of the sheep or
lamb, or hair from the Angora goat
or Cashmere goat, (and may
include the so-called speciality
fibres from the hair of the camel,
alpaca, llama, and vicuna), which
has never been reclaimed from
any woven or felted wool product.
The yarn is spun from fibres,
which are variable in length and
randomly oriented to one another.
They are intermingled and
produce a bulky yarn with a fuzzy
surface. Fabrics made from wool
are warm and easy to manipulate,
but good pressing is essential.
Wool is popular not only for its
quality of warmth. Because of its
breathing properties, wool allows
perspiration to dry on the skin,
1035
Word Category Short description Description
which, in turn, triggers the bodys
cooling effect. This also prevents
perspiration from being absorbed
into the fabric as happens with
other fibres that have a rapid
absorption rate. Very fine wool
fibres weighing only 120-300 g per
metre are now used for poplin,
gabardine and panama.
WOOL DYED fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
Wool yarn or fabric
made from wool
Wool yarn or fabric made from
wool, which has been stock dyed
before being spun into yarn. stock
dyed is the preferred term.
WOOL OIL A lubricant applied to
wool or hair fibres
A lubricant applied to wool or hair
fibres to facilitate subsequent
processing
WOOLLEN fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics,
Description of yarns,
fabrics or garments
made of yarns of
carded wool, more
loosely twisted than
worsted yarns.
Description of yarns, fabrics or
garments made of yarns of carded
wool, more loosely twisted than
worsted yarns. Woollens, usually
have a fuzzy surface as
contrasted with a smooth surface
of most worsteds.
WOOLLEN
COUNT
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Traditional counts
depend upon the
spinning system used
Traditional counts depend upon
the spinning system used because
a different hank length is
employed in each case, e.g. 1/24s
woollen count means that, 24
hanks each 256 yd long weigh 1 lb
WOOLLEN
FINISH
processes,
operations
A napping treatment
given to some cotton
fabrics
A napping treatment given to
some cotton fabrics to make them
appear like woollens, e.g.
Flannelette, Cahallis, Blanket
cloth, Canton flannel, Domete
flannel.
WORMING processes,
operations
A nautical term for
filling up the divisions
between the lay
(strands)
A nautical term for filling up the
divisions between the lay (strands)
of a rope by passing a spun yarn
along in it in order to obtain a
smooth surface.
WORSTED fibers,
filaments,
yarns,
fabrics
Yarn. Worsted yarn is
spun from long
staple, wool fibres
1. Yarn. Worsted yarn is spun
from long staple, wool fibres,
which have been carded, and
either gilled or combed, or both.
Worsted yarn is smooth surfaced
and blends very well with other
fibres. 2. Fabric. Worsted fabric is
1036
Word Category Short description Description
manufactured wholly from worsted
yarns, except that decoration
threads of other fibres may be
present. Worsted clothes are
usually very closely woven,
smooth to touch, light, springy,
durable. It holds creases well and
do not stain easily.
woollen materials.
WORSTED
SYSTEM
processes,
operations
Spinning of worsted
yarns from medium or
longer wools, alpaca
and mohair.
Spinning of worsted yarns from
medium or longer wools, alpaca
and mohair. Generally the
processes employed are carding,
combing, drawing and spinning.
The short fibres or noils are
removed in combing and the
resultant yarn is rather compact
with the fibres placed parallel. The
process is quite different from the
Woollen system.
WORSTED-
TYPE FABRIC
fabrics A fabric
manufactured wholly
from worsted-type
(worsted-spun) yarns
A fabric manufactured wholly from
worsted-type (worsted-spun)
yarns, or from cotton warp and
worsted-type (worsted-spun) weft,
and which may or may not contain
decoration threads or other fibres.
WOVEN fabrics Double thread
system, lengthwise
(warp) and crosswise
(weft)
Double thread system, lengthwise
(warp) and crosswise (weft), the
two crossing one another at right
angles, and kept together by
means of interlacing (binding).
Manufactured on conventional
automatic looms, projectile looms,
gripper looms and jet looms.
WOVEN
FABRIC
fabrics A structure produced
when at least two
sets of strands are
interlaced, usually at
right angles to each
other
A structure produced when at
least two sets of strands are
interlaced, usually at right angles
to each other, according to a
predetermined pattern of
interlacing, and such that at least
one set is parallel to the axis along
the lengthwise direction of the
fabric.
In their simple form these consist
of two series of threads, Warp
and weft, interlaced at right
angles to each other. The warp
threads run the length of the fabric
1037
Word Category Short description Description
and the weft threads run across
the width. Plain weave is the
simplest form of interlacing. The
warp and weft interlace with each
other in a similar manner. If the
threads are closely spaced, this
form of interlacing gives a very
tight structure because the
alternate interlacings give no room
for sideways movement of
threads. The draping properties of
such a structure would depend
entirely on the flexibility of the
fibres and yarns. Woven
structures vary in density and in
interlacing, and this make them
differ in appearance and handle,
but in their simple forms they
represent a very stable material.
WOVEN
STRETCH
FABRIC
fabrics A woven fabric which
is capable of at least
20 % stretch in either
warp or weft direction
A woven fabric which is capable of
at least 20 % stretch in either warp
or weft direction, or both, under
loads and conditions encountered
in use, and of almost complete
recovery on removal of the load.
WRAPPER
FIBRES
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Belly
bands
Also called Belly bands. Fibres
which wrap around the main body
of a staple fibre yarn during yarn
formation in the production of
Open-end spinning and Fasciated
yarn.
WRINKLE defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. An objectionable
crease, generally short and
irregular in shape, developed
unintentionally.
WRINKLE
RECOVERY
fabrics Also called Crease
recovery. That
property of a fabric,
which by its own
resilience enables it
to recover from
folding deformations.
Also called Crease recovery. That
property of a fabric, which by its
own resilience enables it to
recover from folding deformations.
Wool fabrics have the greatest
natural resilience. Thermoplastic,
synthetic fibres and chemically
treated cotton and synthetic also
exhibit considerable wrinkle
recovery.
WRINKLE
RESISTANCE
fabrics That property and
capacity of a textile
material, which
That property and capacity of a
textile material, which enables it to
resist the formation of wrinkles
1038
Word Category Short description Description
enables it to resist the
formation of wrinkles
when subjected to a folding
deformation and/or recover from
creasing. Molecular cross-linking
is one of the processes employed
to improve crease resistance.
Crease resistance is a term
commonly used in place of the
preferred term wrinkle resistance.

X

Word Category Short description Description
XAMITUM fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Samite.
A rich, heavy silk
fabric, generally
interwoven with gold
or silver threads in
brocade effects
Also called Samite. A rich, heavy silk
fabric, generally interwoven with gold
or silver threads in brocade effects.
Used for ecclesiastical garments,
robes of state. The term is derived
from the Greek word hesamitos, which
means woven with six threads; the
fabrichas originally been made with a
six-ply warp
XANTHATING processes,
operations
An intermediate step
in the manufacture
of viscose rayon
An intermediate step in the
manufacture of viscose rayon in which
alkali cellulose is treated with carbon
bisulphide for several hours at
specified temperatures converting it
into cellulose xanthate.
XYLINA fabrics A bleached cotton
fabric made from
cotton grown in
upper Egypt.
A bleached cotton fabric made from
cotton grown in upper Egypt. It was
very popular with wealthy classes of
the Roman Empire.
XYLODINE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Yarn made by
twisting a strip of
paper and coating
with glue and fibre.
Yarn made by twisting a strip of paper
and coating with glue and fibre.
XYLOLIN fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A trade name for
paper yarn, made in
Germany.
A trade name for paper yarn, made in
Germany.

Y

Word Category Short description Description
YARN fibers,
filaments,
Generic term for a
thin, long, continuous
Generic term for a thin, long,
continuous strand of textile
1039
Word Category Short description Description
yarns strand of textile
fibres, filaments, or
material in a form
suitable for knitting,
weaving, or
otherwise interwining
to form a textile
fabric.
fibres, filaments, or material in
a form suitable for knitting,
weaving, or otherwise
interwining to form a textile
fabric. An assembly of
substantial length with a
relatively small cross-section,
made from fibres and/or
filaments into a long, thin
strand.Assemblies of fibres or
filaments are usually given
other names during the stages
that lead to the production of
yarn, e.g. tow, slubbing. sliver,
or roving. Except in the case of
continuous filament or tape
yarns, any tensile strength
possessed by assemblies at
these stages is generally the
minimum that can hold them
together during processing.
YARN COUNT IN
TEX SYSTEM
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The tex value of a
yarn is the weight in
grams of 1000 m of
yarn, so that a larger
number indicates a
heavier, coarser
yarn.
Traditional yarn counts and
deniers have been replaced to
a great extent by the tex
system.
The tex value of a yarn is the
weight in grams of 1000 m of
yarn, so that a larger number
indicates a heavier, coarser
yarn.
Yarn Count in Tex System of
Continuous Filament Yarns:
On the tex system continuous
filament yarns, formerly
specified in terms of denier,
are specified in decitex. The
relationship between decitex
and denier is:
denier is the weight in grams of
9000 m of yarn.
dtex is the weight in grams of
10000 m of yarn.
tex is the weight in grams of
1000 m of yarn.
Thus, tex =denier 0.9
Yarn Count in Tex System of
Staple Yarns: Traditional
counts depend upon the
spinning system used because
1040
Word Category Short description Description
a different hank length is
employed in each case, e.g.
1/24s cotton count means that,
24 hanks each 840 yd long
weigh 1 lb.
1/24s worsted count means
that,
24 hanks each 560 yd long
weigh 1 lb.
1/24s woollen count means
that,
24 hanks each 256 yd long
weigh 1 lb.
On the tex system the meaning
is the same for all yarns.
24s tex count means that,
1000 m of yarn weigh 24 g.
YARN DYED fabrics Fabrics woven or
knitted with yarns
that have been dyed.
Fabrics woven or knitted with
yarns that have been dyed.
YARN NUMBERING
SYSTEM
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A system expressing
yarn size as a
relationship between
length and mass
A system expressing yarn size
as a relationship between
length and mass
YARN
PERFORMANCE
CHARACTERISTICS
fabrics The performance
specification
requirements for
yarns, meant for
various end uses, are
usually guided by the
internationally
approved Standard
Performance
Specifications.
The performance specification
requirements for yarns, meant
for various end uses, are
usually guided by the
internationally approved
Standard Performance
Specifications. Generally, the
main performance
characteristics which are
tested on yarns are: Count,
Dimensional stability to
washing, Identification of
fibre/filament, Lea strength,
Loop strength, Melting point
(fibre), Single yarn/thread
strength, Twist per unit length
and Yarn evenness.
YARN SPINNING processes,
operations
The process of
joining together short
or staple fibres by
drawing them from
the fibrous mass and
twisting them
together.
The process of joining together
short or staple fibres by
drawing them from the fibrous
mass and twisting them
together. Spun yarns are
produced in this way from the
natural fibres such as wool,
1041
Word Category Short description Description
flax and cotton. Man-made
fibres also are produced in this
form, after chopping up a tow
of continuous threads. The
fundamental operations of
spinning yarn by traditional
methods are carding, drawing
and inserting twist, followed by
winding
YARN TWIST fibers,
filaments,
yarns
The number of turns
of twist per unit
length yarn.
The number of turns of twist
per unit length yarn. It is the
twist in the yarn, which helps
the fibres to hang together and
the important factor is the
angle of twist. This is the angle
which the fibres make with the
long axis of the yarn. However,
it is more convenient to refer to
the twist in turns per
centimetre.
As the amount of twist is
increased in yarns they
become stronger as fibre
slippage is lessened, but when
maximum strength has been
reached, any further twisting
tends to weaken the yarn.
However, it is not necessary
for all yarns to be twisted to the
degree necessary to achieve
maximum strength. Some
yarns are required with soft
and desirable characteristics
requiring less twist, and thus
having a somewhat reduced
strength. See Direction of twist.
YARN
UNEVENNESS
defects In textiles, variation in
the linear density of a
continuous strand or
portion of a strand
In textiles, variation in the
linear density of a continuous
strand or portion of a strand.
See also Coefficient of
variation unevenness and
Mean deviation unevenness.
YELLOWING processes,
operations
The yellow
discoloration that
may develop on
textile materials
The yellow discoloration that
may develop on textile
materials during processing,
use, or storage.
YOLK fibers,
filaments,
The oily fat
surrounding the wool
The oily fat surrounding the
wool fibre in sheep, composed
1042
Word Category Short description Description
yarns fibre in sheep largely of wool fat, or lanolin,
plus dried perspiration or suint.
YORKSHIRE TWEED fabrics A fabric made of
reworked wool, low-
grade wool, or a
mixture of wool and
cotton, in imitation of
Tweed.
A fabric made of reworked
wool, low-grade wool, or a
mixture of wool and cotton, in
imitation of Tweed.
YUZEN processes,
operations
A secret J apanese
process of dyeing a
painted fabric in
which fidelity of
pattern, boldness of
line, and rich
colouring is retained.
A secret J apanese process of
dyeing a painted fabric in
which fidelity of pattern,
boldness of line, and rich
colouring is retained. Habutai,
silk crpe and velvet are
examples of fabrics used.
YUZEN BIRODO fabrics A velvet fabric made
by applying the
yuzen process and
then cutting away the
pile with a small,
sharp chisel
A velvet fabric made by
applying the yuzen process
and then cutting away the pile
with a small, sharp chisel,
cutting the strong lines and
shadows deeply and the
delicate portions lightly.

Z

Word Category Short description Description
ZANELLA fabrics A twilled fabric
generally made with
combed cotton warp
and worsted, rayon or
silk filling.
A twilled fabric generally made with
combed cotton warp and worsted,
rayon or silk filling. Used for linings
and previously for umbrella covering.
ZEIN FIBRE fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A natural polymer
fibre, produced from
zein, which is
extracted from corn
meal.
A natural polymer fibre, produced
from zein, which is extracted from
corn meal. It is softer than wool, has
attractive handle. Can be made up
into fabrics that are warm as wool.
Used mostly in blends with cotton,
rayon and nylon.
ZENANA fabrics a lightweight
matelass made with
satin and gauze
stripes
a lightweight matelass made with
satin and gauze stripes. Used for
womens dresses.
ZEPHIRITIES fabrics A light weight, lace-like
silk jacquard fabric,
made with two sets of
A light weight, lace-like silk jacquard
fabric, made with two sets of raw silk
warp; the ground warp is given a
1043
Word Category Short description Description
raw silk warp; hard finish, while the warp used to
form the designs is soft-finished.
Originally made in France. The very
sheer foundation is woven with both
right and left hand twisted weft yarns,
with one pick of each type alternating
in every shed. The warp is used to
form the designs are sheared away
between the figures
ZEPHYR fabrics A general term for very
fine fabric of plain
weave
A general term for very fine fabric of
plain weave. Derived from the name
of the ancient god of the west wind.
Usually it has coloured stripes on a
white ground and exhibits a cord
effect made by the introduction of
coarse threads at intervals. Used for
dresses, blouses, and shirtings and
made in various qualities.
ZEPHYR
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
Also called Zephyr
worsted. A variety of
soft worsted yarn
characterizedby a low
twist and spun from
very fine wool.
Also called Zephyr worsted. A variety
of soft worsted yarn characterizedby
a low twist and spun from very fine
wool. Sometimes silk or man-made
fibres are blended in the yarn.
ZERBASE fabrics A double-faced silk
fabric inter-woven with
gold or silver threads.
A double-faced silk fabric inter-woven
with gold or silver threads.
ZERO-TWIST
YARN
fibers,
filaments,
yarns
A continuous filament
single yarn, in which
there is no twist
1. A continuous filament single yarn,
in which there is no twist. 2. A
doubled yarn in which there is no
doubling twist.
ZIBELINE fabrics Heavy coating fabric
with a long, shaggy
nap laid in a single
direction.
Heavy coating fabric with a long,
shaggy nap laid in a single direction.
Usually woollen, but sometimes other
fibres such as acrylic may be
included. Dark colours are normally
used and the cloth is often striped.
Used for womens coats, capes,
childrens coats
ZIGZAG
TWILL
fabrics A term broadly applied
to twill weaves with a
zigzag effect
A term broadly applied to twill
weaves with a zigzag effect. These
generally fall in the broken twill class.
ZIRPRO processes,
operations
A treatment,
developed by the
International Wool
Secretariat, which
improves flame
A treatment, developed by the
International Wool Secretariat, which
improves flame retardance in wool
fabrics. There is a wide range of
specific applications enabling the
1044
Word Category Short description Description
retardance in wool
fabrics.
treatment to be applied at the most
convenient point in manufacture, i.e.
involving least cost but ensuring the
highest degree of flame retardance.
Specific treatments, such as low
smoke zirpro have been developed
for aircraft manufacturers. The Zirpro
treatment (zirconium processes) can,
also include other processing, e.g.
Zirpro plus silicone for water
repellence,
Zirpro plus fluorocarbons for oil
repellence, and Zirpro plus shrink-
resist treatment.