Introduction | 6

Sheltfish | 8 Fish I z6
Poultry and game birds | 48 Meat | 66
Pasta and rice I 84

Vegetables I ro4 Eggs I r38

Fruit I 16o
Flour: breads, pastries and cal<es I r78
Stocl<s, sauces and

dressings I zo6

fndex I zzo
Acf<nowledgements I zz4

poached lobster with potato and rocl<et salad

simple, elegant salad looks stunning. You will need two live lobsters, preferably fron the cold, clear loch-fed waters of western Scotland. lf you find that your lobster contoins prized coral as you prepore it (look for a dark green sac), save it. This
This

can be mixed into butter to dress flsh steoks, or beaten and brushed on large raw prawns prior to frying, to impart a superb

flavour and vibrant orangey-pink colour. SERVES z AS A STARTER OR LIGHT DISH

z small live lobsters, about 5oog
each

r First, put the lobsters

in the freezer for about 3o minutes to mal<e them sleepy.

When ready to cool<, mal<e sure you l<itt them quicl<[y: the simptest way is to detach the head from the body as fast and firmly as possibte. Put the lobster, betty-side down, horizontatly in front of you on a board. (The ctaws witt be

rog sea salt

4 targe Charlotte potatoes, about

roog each roog wild rocl<et roomI Vinaigrette (page zr8) z5g piece Parmesan cheese
sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

wrapped in thicl< bands so they won't nip you.) Hotd the head firmty with one
hand and with your other hand, push the tail hard away from you, then towards you, in two swift moves. This detaches the head from the body quicl<ty. (The two

parts may continue to twitch a little because of cut nerve endings, but the [obster
is not ative.)

pepper

z Putt the [arge ctaws from the head and set aside. Discard the head (or use for lobster bisque, page rz). Clean the body by removing the swim btadder, which is
attached to the middte taiI section. Hotding the body betty-side down, fan out the

tail and grasp the middte tait section between your finger and thumb. Bend it
upwards, then twist and gentty pull to remove the [ong, thin, opaque tube.
Repeat

to prepare the other lobster. Tie the tait sections together to obtain

perfect medallions (see right). 3 Put a [arge pan containing at least 3 litres of water on to boil and add the salt. Drop in the lobster bodies and claws, and boi[, attowing 3/z minutes for the tails,
up to 5 minutes for the claws. Remove and cooI a tittte. Putt the shetts from the

bodies

- it is best to do this white

they are still warm. Cracl< the claws with the

back of a heavy cook's knife, then you should be abte to putl off the shell in two parts and extract the meat in one piece; set aside. 4 Meanwhile, boit the potatoes in salted water untit iust tender. Remove and cooI a little, then peelthem white stitt warm (wearing rubber gloves to protect your hands from the heat).
5 Btitz hatf the rocl<et in a food processor with a littte of the vinaigrette, then

drizzle in the rest untiI the dressing is velvety smooth. Taste for seasoning. 6 Stice the potatoes lengthways and arrange in the centre of each serving plate. Spoon over some of the dressing. Cut the lobster tails into medatlions and arrange on top. Add the claw meat if til<ed. Drizzte over more dressing and add

the remaining rocl<et leaves. Using a swivel peeler, pare fine shavings of
Parmesan and scatter over the rocl<et leaves. Serve at once.

1O Shellfish

-s& r.t

&ti,.,
!--.-

::,i:**i

-I

re

:ol

rC meda[[ions, uncurL the I c ind nrp<< thpm tnocthpr

:es inwards, ptacing them

:alI as shown. Tie securety

e Iength with l<itchen string
p

thp lnh<tpr ieilc kccn

rs they cool(.

lobster bisque
gourmet soup of leftovers, this wonderful bisque is light and delicate with an intense shellfish flavour. There,s nothing difficult about it ...you simply use the heads and shells of lobsters rather than throw them away. of course, lobster carcasses can be kept in the freezer until you want to make the bisque. Langoustine and crab shells are suitable, too. you,lL
The need a

heavy bladed knife or a Chinese chopper to cut up the she11s. sERVES z-3 AS A sTARTER shetls and heads of z lobsters
6 tablespoons otive

r Chop up the lobster shetts and heads, using a large heavy

cleaver

l<nife or

chinese

oil

- the finer you

chop them, the more flavour you will extract. Retain the

r medium onion, finely chopped

2 carrots, finety chopped

r celery sticl< or
chopped

fennet butb,

soft tissue in the heads - this adds to the flavour. z Heat hatfthe olive oiI in a targe saucepan and saut6 the tobster shells and heads for about 5 minutes. Remove them with a slotted spoon and set aside. 3 Heat the remaining oiI in the pan, then add the vegetabtes, garlic and lemon grass. saut6 for about 5 minutes untilsoftened. sprinl<te in the saffron if using,
and cook for 3o seconds,

r fat garlic clove, chopped

2 [emon grass stems, chopped generous pinch ofsaffron strands

(optionat)
2 teaspoons Cognac

4 Degtaze with the cognac, then add the Noitty prat and bubble untit reduced by half. Return the shetts to the pan. Add the stocl<, tomatoes, tomato pur6e anc
herbs. Season with pepper to taste (satt won't be necessary). Bring to the boil, lower the heat and simmer for zo minutes.
5 strain the liquorthrough a large sieve into another pan, pressingthe sheils with the bacl< of a tadle to extract as much ftavour as possible.

zoomt Noilly Prat, or dry vermouth

r titre Fish Stocl< (page zo9)

3 plum tomatoes, chopped

r tablespoon tomato pur6e

r large basil sprig r large tarragon sprig

:. [arge parsley

6 Bring the strained liquor to the boit and simmer until reduced to about 5ooml. Stir in the cream and bring to a gentle simmer. cool< gently for minutes. 4-5 check the seasoning, adding salt to taste at this stage and cautious pinches of
cayenne. Serve hot.

sprig

r bay leaf
roomI double cream
generous pinch of cayenne pepper
sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

pepper

5i' ::i il't", 1-g lj1 i" NoirLy prat is one of my secret ftavourings. This cLassic vermouth with its hint of sweet aniseed is perfect for enhancing fish and sheltfish. I often use it in
r,:.

i't

i:; ir

combination with a little Cognac. Lil<e sherrv, it is a fortified wrne, so once opened it can be kept in the storecupboard.

t2

Sheltfish

veloutd of jerusalem artichol<es with mussels

:'ench love their terre et mer ('surf and turf') recipes that combine the flavours of the earth and sea, and this one is ...larly good. The soup can be made ahead, and the mussels steamed with wine and herbs d la marinidre iust before 9, then added along with the cooking juices. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER

-.'::
-

ihe otive oil in a [arge saucepan and gentty saut6 the shallots for about

3 tabtespoons olive oit

-tes until softened but not cotoured.

z [arge shaltots, finely chopped

4oog Jerusalem artichol<es

,'.'"irvhile, scrub the artichol<es under cold water. Add the lemon iuice to a , :'cold water. Stice the artichol<es very thinly and immediatety add them to
,

juice of r smat[ lemon zoomI dry white wine

ciu

lated water.

, , -:- the sha[lots are softened, drain the artichol<es and add them to the pan.
"-sn cover and sweat for ro minutes. Add hatf the wine and cool<, uncovered,
-=duced by hatf. Pour in the stocl<and bringto the boit. Season to taste,

r litre Chicl<en Stocl< (page zro)

r5oml double cream z5g butter
5oog fresh mussels

' ' :.e heat and simmer for about r5 minutes untit the vegetabtes are soft. Stir
-

:.eam and butter and cool< gently for a few minutes, then tal<e off the heat
cOOt.

r small onion, sliced z parstey sprigs r thyme sprig

sea salt and freshly ground btack

.:

. ,'.

3a

stotted spoon, scoop the vegetables into a food processor or btender

^ z until smooth, then gradua[[y add the stocl< through the feeder tube,
e blades stitl whirring. Pass the soup through a sieve, rubbing with the

' , -

pepper

. -'a ladte. (lf preparing ahead, cool and chitt untiI required.) -: :he mussels wetl in cotd water, discarding any that are open
. '^on er^,.,,+hn . LI lennod roppcu. Drrll I urrovvqy tiltr ha-'.lr utrdtu>,

and do not

:' : large saucepan untitscorching hot. Add the remainingwine, sliced , -d herb sprigs, then tip in the washed mussels. Cover with a tight-fitting

-ook for about 4 minutes, shal<ing the pan occasionatty, until the mussets

.:ered.

".,1
-

the heat, uncoverand leave untilthe mussets are coot enough to

fiscard anythat have faited toopen. Remove the mussets from their
a

- . ^ d set aside. Strain the pan juices into

lug or cup and reserve.

. ' . e. reheat the soup untit boiting, stirring in the reserved mussel juices.

. :-e

shetted mussels between four warmed bowts and pour the soup over

- :-e heat witt be sufficient to warm the mussets through. Serve at once.

lr:;ii:llr(i.jii;td1:i li:!{lili-,.1.1-iit'1.,/1 .,fiFi?ii".ii{".!i{"}.'li

nal.,.,.thanpeerthis

l<nobbty root vegetable, simply scrub the skins with a smatl vegetable (or naiL) brush. Slice

or chop the artichol<es, dropping them into a bowl of cold water acidulated with lemon juice as you do so, otherwise they wiLt discolour. Drain before cooking.

Shetlfish

73

mussels with a herb brioche crust

These make a good party canap, or starter, and you can assemble them an hour or two ahead. Cooked mussels in their half-

shell are topped with moist, herby brioche crumbs and gratinded under a hot grill. I always use freshly cooked mussels, but you do need large ones. If you can only find smoll fresh mussels, buy about twenty of the New Zealond green-lipped variety instead

- these ore sold ready cooked

in the half-shell. lf sweet brioche from a supermarket is the only option for the crumb

topping, substitute o rich bread, such as foccacio. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER rkg large fresh mussels r Wash the mussels thoroughty, pul[ away the beards and
scrub the shells to remove any barnacles. Discard any mussels that are open and refuse to close when you tap

r sha[[ot, s]iced r smal[ glass white wine

large knob of butter
sea salt and freshly ground btack pepper

them sharply.

z Heat a large saucepan until hot, then tip in the mussets,

sliced shallot, wine, butter and seasoning. Cover with a

Topping: 2oog unsweetened brioche, crusts removed

tight-fitting Iid and

cool<

for about 5 minutes, shal<ing the

pan occasionatly. By this time the mussels shoutd have opened; discard any that are stitl closed.

3-4 tablespoons olive oit r shallot, finely chopped r thyme sprig, leaves only, finely chopped

3 Drain the mussels and leave until cool enough to handle. Remove the mussels from their shells, reserving zo-3o of the [argest hatf-shetts. 4 Meanwhile, make the topping. Btitz the brioche in a food
processor to fine crumbs, then tip them into a bowl. Heat r tablespoon olive oiI in a smatl pan and saut6 the shattot

z-3 coriander sprigs, finely chopped

1

teaspoon finely chopped chives

zog Parmesan cheese, freshly grated

for about 3 minutes until softened, without cotouring. Add

to the crumbs with the chopped herbs and Parmesan. Mix

with a forl<, adding more oil to moisten as necessary; the

crumb mixture should not be dry. 5 Put 2 or 3 mussels in each of the reserved hatf-shetls.
Sprinl<le the crumb topping over the mussels to cover them

. ; ;- t:'*'' ' Mussels that you buy are -": | .. ,".-"!." ;'*1 " 'qr ."t 4" q"-ry
cuttivated in protected areas ofthe sea bed, or grown on poLes fixed in clean sea water. Because oftheir habitat, they ingest sand and grit as they feed. Live mussets must be bought very fresh. Scrub them clean and remove any barnacles under cold water, using a stiff brush. Then, if time, put the mussels in a large bowl of clean, cold salted water, sprinkLe in a handfut of oats and set aside for a few hours. The musseLs will feed on the oats and expel any grit they contain.

comptetely and press down tightty.

6 When ready to serve, preheat a foit-tined gritl pan under a

high gritt. Lay the mussels on the gritl pan and gritt for
mussels are piping hot.

few minutes untiI the topping is tightty browned and the

14 Shellfish

.a

fennel salad of marinated oysters with wafer-thin

them marinated - the best of both worlds' the shell doesn't oppeal to you' then try oysters raw from eating of notion the tf then served on a crisp fennel in citrus juices with soy and sesame flavourings, For thissolad, shucked oysters are morinated marinade by hatf os much again. Use a but you,ll only need to increase the salad, To serve 4, buy twice as many oysters, LUNCH SERYES z AS A STARTER OR LIGHT mandolin or Japanese slicer to slice the fennel'

rz freshty shucl<ed oysters, rock or native (see betow), iuices reserved

removing any tiny fragments of shett' Check over the shucked oysters carefutly'

then chitt' Wash them carefutly in their reserved iuices'

r targe fennel bulb

about toog fris6e or wild rocl<et r tablesPoon choPPed chives (page zr8) 3 tablespoons Vinaigrette
sea salt and freshtY ground blacl<

zRemovethefrondsfromthefennelandre5erveforgarnish.Withthetipofa

from the base ofthe fennet and discard' very sharp, smatl l<nife, cut out the core tip in 3 or 4 handfuts of ice cubes' Peet away Fitt a targe bowt with cold water and a swiveI vegetable peeter' the outside ribs of the fennet butb' using then drop finely from the cored end using a mandolin' 3 Stice the fennetvery

pepper

straightintotheicedwater.Leavethefennelintheicedwaterforanhourorso;
this hetPs it to become verY crisP' dish' Add marinade ingredients together in a shattow 4 ln the meantime, mix the for about r5 minutes' the oysters and toss to mix' Leave to marinate towe[' To serve' toss the crisp the fennet and pat dry with a clean tea
5 Drain

Marinade:

r targe shallot, finetY diced

iuice of z limes iuice of /' lemon r tablesPoon dark soY sauce r tablesPoon sesame oiI few droPs of Tabasco sauce sea salt and freshtY ground btacl<
pepper

fennetwiththefris6eorrocl<et,chives,vinaigretteandseasoning'Divide

forl<' tift the oysters from the marinade between ptates. Using a stotted spoon or

andarrangethemaroundthesalad'Trickleoveratitttemarinadeandgarnish
with fenneI fronds.

# # hq # #ffi #'yffiT

ffi

and the more are smooth-shelled Natives (or Belons) ffigp th. t*o main species avairabie in this countrv

craggyPacificrockoysters,whichareeasiertoopen.Theclassicshort,stubbyoysterknifeisthesafestimp|ementtouse'Makesurethe a thick, fotded napkin hand and protect your other hand with
any that are not. Take the knife in one slowly but oyster she*s are tightly closed; discard hinge end showing. Keeping the oyster level' down in the croth or tea towel with the side is cut' muscle or tea towe[. Hold the oyster rounded hinge the as 'give' necessary, untir you feel a hinge, wiggting it from side to side if cutthrougn firmry stick the knife point in through the oysterto underthe l<nife the juices into a.bowl. stide up the top rtr.tr.rip outthe lnsertthe knife a bit further and twistto tift

themuscleandtakeouttheoyster.Checkthatitisfreeofsmurlpiecesofshe|l.Washtheoystersintheirownjuicethenchill'

t6

shellfish

tem pura of oysters

.
EI

:'et to a light tempura batter is to mix it at the last moment and draw
' ss cooting, use freshly opened beer and Perrier

the food to be coated through it lightly. For a

one of the fizziest sparkling waters. The batter is ideal for other

loo, such as large prawns and cubes of monkfish.

the art of shucking oysters, following my instructions on the opposite page, and keep the juices

' "taster ' :o fish sauces. Alternatively, buy ready shucked oysters from your fishmonger.
elt.
.

- a sublime

Serve with the sweet and sour pepper

:r

o simple

dipping sauce of naturally brewed soy sauce with a drizzle of sesame oil. SERVES f-+ AS A STARTER

- -:: <

the oysters carefulty, removing any fragments of shett. Set aside in the

rz freshly shucked oysters (see teft)

olive or groundnut oil, for deep-frying

r0. way

,:r -ntiI ready to cool<.

:
,

-ake the sauce, heat the otive oiI in a pan and saut6 the shatlot and pepper ,: lut 5 minutes untiI softened but not coloured. Stir in the sugar and

3-4 smatt coriander sprigs, to serve

Botter:

': ring and cool< untit tightty caramelised.

Add the vinegar and cook until

;o;

:- -ed right down. Pour in the stocl< and orange luice and tet bubbte untit
:

rz5g plain flour or'oo'pasta ftour,

plus extra to dust
3og cornflour

-:ed by hatf. Whiz in a blender until smooth then set aside. (lf preparing

Add

'.

::

::.

cool and chitt; return to room temperature or reheat gently to serve.) ' :he batter, sift the flour and cornflour together into a large bowl and add the
Whisl< in the beer and Perrier, using a batloon whisl<,

'l

teaspoon fine sea salt

';rning.
ade
1

untitthe batter of

freshty ground blacl< pepper r5oml tight ale or lager r5omI Perrier water
Sweet and sour pepper souce: z tablespoons olive oil

-s: smooth.

* *:at

the oil in a deep-fat fryer or deep, heavy-based pan to a temperature

a cube of

;.'C, or until

white bread dropped in browns in 3o seconds.

a few at a

':

- witI need to deep-fry the oysters

time. Dust them tightty with

' : flour to help the batter cling, then draw each oyster quickty through the
,':er and immediately add to the hot oi[.
.

Fry

for about

minute, then remove

r large shallot, finely chopped r red pepper, cored, seeded and diced
8og soft brown sugar
4 tablespoons sherry vinegar

:^ a stotted spoon, drain on l<itchen paper and l<eep warm. Repeat with the

-aining oysters, reheating the oit in between as necessary. Finatty dust the ' ander sprigs tightty with ftour and deep-fry in the hot oitfor a few seconds - -: I criso.

zooml Chicken Stock (page zro) roomI orange juice

sea salt and freshty ground black

: Serve the oyster tempura at once, garnished

,:cmpanied by the dipping sauce.

with deep-fried coriander and

pepper
)re
he 0Krn

cut

rt.

f,F$mfl-S Sffi#ffiffiT

we atways rinse ourshucked oysrers in their own juices, to remove any fragments of shell that might be sticking to them. The oyster juices have a terrific flavour, so we strain (and sometimes freeze) them to use in soups and sauces.

Sheltfish t7

;a

ry
;

ryt

:::.::l::ly

,.

''

Weneverdiscardanythingthatcanbeusedtoimpartflavour,andthatincludessca[[opcorals.The

fresh corals are spread on a sheet of bal<ing parchment and dried overnight in a very low oven untiL they are hard and brittle, then blltzed in a food processor, or ground to a powder. We sprinl<le this coral powder over fish dishes, risottos and creamy sauces for Dasta. lt lends a suoerb flavour.

rB

sheitfish

satad of truffle dressed scalloPs

: s taste wonderful and can

be

:s

from scotland which are up' King scallops are very to -. :he scallops then stack them upright in lines in containers and chill overnight firm
so Vou don't need many

are quite expensive' I use only hand dived served in a variety of ways, though they wasn when we prise them open' After cleaning' we delivered so fresh they almost pulsate person' SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR LIGHT MEAL

king

per

patm of your hand and sticl< the tip :ne scallop rounded-side down in the hinge' Work the - arp, strong l<nife in between the two shelts' close to the together' Lift off : cng the hinge to sever the muscte that hotds the shetts its orange corat : shett, then stip your knife under the nugget of meat with away the sl<irt and remove the v skirt, to ease it away from the shett' Putt

6-ro king sca[[oPs

zoog mixed salad leaves (such as fris6e, rocket, oal< leaf lettuce' totlo bianco) 8 large Chartotte Potatoes, about roog each
otive oi[, to frY
a

'

.:estina[threadandmuscleattheside'Separatethecoralfromthenugget'
Chitl untiI ready to cool(' a.d dry, then cut each scallop in half horizontatty' toss together in a bowt' and drv the salad leaves, tear into pieces and mustard and seasoning -:ke the dressing, put the egg yotl<, sherry vinegar' hotd it steady' Mix the snalt mixing bowt and ptace on a damp ctoth to egg in a smatl iug and graduatty whisk into the . - : ^ ut and olive oits together tiny , ::se, a few drops at a time' Keep whisl<ing brisl<ty' and mal<e sure each starts to : : r of oiI is emutsified before adding more' As the dresslng it is thick' When time' , you can stowty tricl<te in the oit, whisking att the
t

little currY Powder, to dust

zr8)
fr

a tittte Vinaigrette (Page

&

'/,

esh

truffle (oPtion at)

sea salt and freshtY ground btack

pepper

:^.

Truffie dressing:

..

r the truffte oit. Check the seasoning and set aside'

oiI in a frying pan thicl< stices. Heat 3 tablespoons otive as necessary' Fry in a singte layer in the

r large free'range egg Yolk

1

. :oif the potatoes for 5 minutes, then drain and peelwhite stitt warm' Leave

- . then cut into rcm

teaspoon sherrY vinegar % teaspoon Engtish mustard Powder

good Pinch offine sea salt pinch of freshty ground white peppet Tomt groundnut oiI 8omI otive oil
1

-:,t6 the potato stices in batches

'
.

and ': - z-3 minutes on eacn side until brown and crispy on the outside curry powder and season' Heat a heavy-based '3 ran or ridged griddte untiI very hot' Add a thin fitm of oil' then ptace the (in the same order ::s in the pan, in a circle' Cool<forr minute' then turn side for the pan to ensure even cool<ing)' Cook the other

=: through.

KeeP warm.

tightty with ': lhe scaltops

teasPoon truffle scented oil

.::onds to l minute, untit gotden. Remove from the pan; rest for z3 '':"whiletossthesaladleavesinatitttevinaigretteandseason'Cutthe

aced them in

minutes'

'' :. if using, into wafer-thin

and stices' Arrange the potato slices' scallops

..tsIicesinacircteoneachservingplate.Ptaceata[[cutterinthecentreand
tower of ', :'r the salad [eaves, tnen carefutty tift off to [eave an impressive centre') Beat ,: .eaves. (Atternativety, you can simpty pite the leaves into the truffte dressing to toosen it' and spoon - :aolespoons of hot water into the dressing over the top and serve' . - d the satad. Drizzte any remaining

Shettfish

79

langoustine cocl<tail
ubiquitous prawn, I buy fresh langoustines, also called Dublin Bay our supplies prawns or scampi. These cold water crustaceans are not cheap, but they have the most wonderful sweet flavour' serve them simply with a mayonnaise-style are from west scotland. I poach the langoustines gently in a vegetable nage, then prawns for langousfines. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER marie-rose sauce on a shredded Cos salad. You can substitute raw tiger
This is my ultimate

prawn cocktail! Rather than

use the

zo fresh langoustines, size z 5oomI Vegetable Nage (Page Morie-rose sauce:

r Bring

a large pan of water to the boit. Drop in half of the

zu)

langoustines and btanch for 3o seconds, then immediately drain and peel (see betow). Remove the blacl< intestina[ line

that runs atong the

bacl< of each one. Repeat

with the

rooml Mayonnaise (Page zr9)

2 teaspoons
1

remaining langoustines' z Bring the vegetabte nage to the boit in a pan and lower the heat to a simmer. Drop in the langoustines and poach for z-3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and leave the shettfish to cooI in the tiquid.
in a 3 Meanwhite, mal<e the sauce' Put the mayonnaise bowt and mix in the ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, Cognac and Tabasco to taste.

tomato ketchuP

teasDoon Worcestershire sauce

r tablespoon Cognac
few drops ofTabasco

Salad:

r baby Cos or Little Gem lettuce r tablespoon finety diced shallot

r tablespoon diced crisp, sharp appte (Granny Smith) few basil leaves, finelY shredded

4 For the satad, ro[[ up the Cos lettuce [eaves and shred fairty finety. Put in a bowt with the shattot, apple, basil and vinaigrette, and toss to mix' Season to taste.
5

r-z tablespoons Vinaigrette

(page zre)

When ready to serve, remove the langoustines from the

sea salt and freshty ground btacl< pepper

nage with a stotted spoon and season tightty. Put a

To

serve:

spoonful of sauce in the base of each of 4 cocl<taiI glasses and scatter the satad on top. Arrange the [angoustines on the satad, tricl<te a littte sauce over each one and dust very tightty with curry powder. Garnish each cocl<tailwith a
cherry tomato quarter, one or two lemon segments ancl parsley sprig. Serve at once.
a

pinch of mild curry Powder

r cherry tomato, quartered

'/tlemon, peeled and segmented

4 parsley sprigs

sold in individual tubes to keep them apart' They are aggressive creatures and attack each other, so top quality langoustines are often a time, for 3o seconds to loosen the shells. ten at water, about in boiling the langoustines peet, btanch we first to To make them easier handle them. As they are easier to shelt white stilt hot, we peel the langoustines as soon as we can pu1 the head from the bodv, so the tail meat remains intact, then crack the top of the tail shetl with the back of a knife. Push up the heads, shells and legs - these are futl of meat from the tait end and it shouLd pop out perfectly peeled and in one piece. Save the freeze them and make the stock at a later date' always You can sauces. and fish soups for to use stock flavour and make exceLtent

.4refi31_*hti,* 9",,$qfdi{f}#ST*ff.% Lungorstinesaresordliveinsizes,fromrto3.Forthisreclpelusemedium-sizez.

2o

Shellfish

?rdf
? :;:'*t:

E:b#fiffi3"r'ffi %W,{;:W.W'{*, To check that the white crab meat is free from shell, flake it over a metal tray. lf there are any shetl fragments you wilt hear the sound as they fall on the metal.

22

Shettfish

dressed crab with sauce gribiche

:
l,

x
si

your ::imum flavour, if you possibty can, buy live crabs. Otherwise I recommend that you buy freshly cooked crabs from .1ger or supermarket fresh fish counter and prepare them yourself (fotlowing the illustrated technique overleaf), rather with : ready dressed crabs. I prefer to flavour the white and dark meat before spooning it back into the shells- serve
-ty

'
L

cread or toasted countrv-stvle bread. SERYES + AS A STARTER, OR z AS A LIGHT MAIN COURSE

t 3

'':sh
:3

crabs, each 5oo-6oo9

r lf using live crabs,

checl<

the claws are well secured with strong bands. Then lay

:'eferably [ive)

ine fresh breadcrumbs

each crab on its bacl< and, using an awt (or small ice picl<), pierce the main nerve centre point behind the eyes repeatedty (from different angtes) to l<itt it. Ptunge

-:eze of [emon iuice r, ::ops ofTabasco

the crabs into a large pan of boilingwaterorCourt Bouillon (page zo8) and boit, attowing about ro minutes; do not overcool<. Remove and cool, then chitt (this

r l'ops

of Worcestershire sauce

'sets'the meat and

mal<es

it easier to extract).

: :ablespoons MaYonnaise
: i3e zt9)
1

z Meanwhile. mal<e the sauce. Rub the hard-boited eggs through a sieve into a bowt using the bacl< of a ladle; set aside. Mix the raw egg yoll< with the mustard
and some seasoning in a bowt. Graduatty whisl< in the oit, drop by drop to begin with, then in a steady stream (as if you were mal<ing a mayonnaise). stir in att of

:sDoon choPPed ParsleY

:s

Doon chopped coriander

' r :alt and freshly ground PePPer

-:.'
n

the remaining ingredients, inctuding the sieved egg. Check the seasoning, cover
and chitl until ready to serve. brown 3 Prepare the fresh crabs and extract the meat, l(eeping the white and meat separate (as described overleaf). To prepare the empty shelts for serving, remove the thin undershett by cutting along the natural line, using pincers or ptiers. Wash the shett thoroughty and dry well. juice, Tabasco 4 Put the brown meat into a blender with the breadcrumbs, lemon and worcestershire sauce, and whiz very briefty to mix. season with salt and pepper.

"

i-ran ge eggs, hard-boiled, and roughly chopped

;::.ed
::j;r

i :-ra n ge egg yotl<

,;scoon Diion mustard

-' sunftower or light olive oil i: espoon white wine vinegar

'
:s

roon finely chopped caPers

e ',
u *:
*::'

;:sf,oon finety chopped gherl<ins

'

the parstey, 5 Ftake the white meat and add the r-z tablespoons of mayonnaise, coriander and seasoning. Toss with a forl< to mix.
6 To serve, rub the egg yotl< and white through a sieve with the bacl< of a ladte' l<eeping them separate. Mix the chopped capers and gherl<in together'
7 Spoon

:3spoon anchovy essence

:s :
s

, ,

roon chopped parsley

!oon chopped chervil ..sf,oon chopped tarragon

t 'r'e: '3e free-range egg, hard-boiled,

the brown crab meat into both sides of the cleaned crab shelt, th'en spoon the white meat into the centre, piting it up wett. Garnish with lines of chopped parsley, sieved egg white and yotl< (as shown). Put a spoonful of caper
and gherl<in mixture on each portion of brown meat. Serve at once, with the sauce.

:4
;

: r

i:.ed

and hatved

, .

: rspoons chopped capers

:sspoons finety chopped gherl<in

i:.espoon chopped parsleY

Shetlfish

23

.n 'J '"*e;r '".]

.-. 1 l:

, _*;*

'

j:

24

Shellfish

,iJ

'.

'::i

rf'-:

:i :j

k-i
ffi:

&te,q

d:

;re
I

i,:,9,
:: ::'::
:::a-

-:

Shellfish

25

macl(erel and confit potato in aubergine cups

Fresh mackerel is an underrated fish, which is a great shame because

it

has a

good ftavour and an excellent texture, and it,s

must feel firm. SERVES 6 As A STARTER

not expensive. of course, you need to choose mackerel that is very fresh

- the ftesh

r large aubergine
olive oit, to drizzle
z large waxy potatoes, about 3oog in

r 5lice the aubergine [engthways as thinty as possibte - a mandolin or Japanese

slicer is the best implement to use. Discard the end pieces. preheat a ridged griddte (or gritt) until very hot. cool< the aubergine stices on the griddte in
batches for z-3 minutes, turning to colour both sides. Transfer to a shattow dish and drizzle tightty with otive oit, then brush to coat a[[ over. set aside to coo[. z Pee[ the potatoes, then cut into rcm thicl< stices. Mett the butter in a shaltow pan over a low heat and continue to heat slowty for z-3 minutes to about roooc. Add the potato slices in an even layer and cool< gently for about rz minutes until softened. Remove the potato stices from the butter and drain on l<itchen paper. 3 Meanwhile, heat the gritt to high. place the mackerel sl<in-side down on the gritI racl< and brush with a tittte otive oil. season with salt and pepper and tricl<te over the [emon juice. Gritt for about 5-7 minutes untitthe ftesh feets firm. ser aside to cool, then remove the skin and divide the fish into ftal<es. 4 Now assemble the moulds. Line two large teacups or similar shaped zoomt moutds with cting film. Line the insides with the aubergine slices, overtapping them stightty and bringing the slices up over the sides (to attow sufficient overhang to cover the top). cover the base with a tayer of potato stices, press down lightly, season and sprinkte with chopped herbs. Next press a tayer of macl<erel ftakes on top. Repeat these layers twice more, then top with a layer of potato. 5 Fotd the overhanging aubergine slices over to cover the top, and press down tightty. Place on a small tray, cover with a board, weight down and refrigerate for a few hours, or preferably overnight. (This hetps the layers to set.) 6 shortty before serving, whiz the tapenade ingredients in a food processor until smooth. Demould the aubergine cups, remove the ctingfitm and place on a board or serving plate. cut into slices and serve with the tapenaoe and coarse sea salt.

tota[ (preferably Desir6e or

Chartotte)

z5og butter, diced

6 large mackereI filtets, about r5og
each

juice of r lemon r tablespoon chopped coriander r tablespoon chopped basiI

sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

pepper

Tapenade:

5og can anchovy fi[[ets, drained

zoog pitted blacl< olives

z tablespoons drained capers

r fat garlic clove, crushed

r tablespoon extra virgin otive oit

I'l I;i f V { flil i.",4'it" i- l" { rtti

Ll

r-

{i,*i;

lndividual sized cups look equaLly stunning. Use tiny ramekins or similar
moulds - no more than roomlcapacity as the starter is quite rich.

28

Fish

t5
R

., ''
'|
l,a.
ai:

w.
:

;.1:;ir.t:

ltr...,'tlt,
"5k,

5n

)oc.

tntil
eT.

''fr

-a,

\-'
ct(te
I

. {.
:.\ -'
;1

s
erVN

.^l l.
'n

for

untit )oard satt.

i i Caramelised aubergine slices give these attractive cups a unique flavour. To intensify their flavour, the bergine slices are cooked dry (without oil) on a griddle over a high heat untiI charred and caramelised, then drizzled and allowed to cool. The oiL imparts flavour and heips to soften the aubergines as they coo[. Alternatively, you can
:'i
ar elfect by gritting the aubergine slices dry, then using a red hot sl<ewer to marl( scorch lines before drizzling with oil.

Fish 29

snapper baked in a salt crust

Oven-roasted fish hos a tendency to be rather dry, but this clever Mediterranean baking technique overcomes the problem. The whole fish is encased in salt, which protects it from the intense heat of the oven, seals in the juices ond crisps the skin. The result is superb, succulent fish that, surprisingly,

doesn't taste salty. Serve the baked red snopper with lemon wedges and a garLicky moyonnaise.
SERVES z-3 AS A MAIN D|SH

r red snapper, about 8oog-rl<g, with

head, fins, tait and scales intact Z5og coarse sea salt

Heat the oven to zzooC, Gas 7. Wash the fish and shal<e to

remove excess water, but leave the sl<in moist.

z Lay a large sheet of foit in a shallow roasting tin. Spread

hatf the salt on the foil to mal<e a bed, scatter over hatf of

handful of thyme or rosemary sprigs serve:

the herb sprigs and place the fish on top. Scatter the
To

remaining herb sprigs over the fish, then pour on the

remaining salt to cover the whole fish. Press the satt up against the sides ofthe fish, then scrunch up the edges of the foit to hold it in place. Don't seaI the foit over the top,
as steam must be attowed to escape if the sl<in is to crisp.

flat-teaf parsley
lernon wedges Garlic Mayonnaise (page zr9)

3 Bal<e for zo minutes, then remove from the oven and leave to stand for ro minutes. Breal< off the crisp satt layer, then stide a long palette l<nife underneath the fish and
carefutty tift it on to a board.

4 Peet off the sl<in, which witt be easy to remove, and filtet
the fish neatty to the bone. Remove the whote sketeton and

fittet the fish underneath. The ftesh witl be moist and luicy. Carefutty transfer the fitteted fish to a serving platter and
garnish with flat-teaf parstey. Serve with [emon wedges and

garlic mayonnaise.

ffiMW {;WWffiT rhis is an exceLrentwayto ovenwhole flsh, such as snapper or sea bream. You need a fish with scales intact, and one that has been gutted neatly so the opening can be pinched together to prevent salt seeping inside. The satt forms a brittle coating that is easily broken away after baking, to reveal a oerfectlv cooked fish.
Wffir,W:XWffi W&%W &W Wcool<

Fish

ohn Dory with a tomato and cardamom sauce

'

'sh, John Dory. In fact, it has nothing to do with a person, but is an English corruption of the French jaune
the fish is freshly caught. The flesh is good to eat

. :: .ien yellow, the colour of the sheen on the skin when

- '''n, but not too meaty. Larger fish give better fillets and although it is not a flat fish like sole, it needs to :,^e woy. lf possible, ask your fishmonger to do this for you. " ee John Dory fillets are served with caramelised chicory and a fresh, creamy tomato sauce infused with
s

spice with many surprises, not least the way it goes so well with tomato. SERVES 4 AS A MAIN D|SH
z John Dory

.- ' .els to neaten if necessary and set aside, - ::'v Lengthways and trim the root end, leaving it partty intact to

fillets, each rzog,

with sl<in

-. :cgether. Rott the chicory in the sugar until evenly coated. -. :.ive oil in a sha[low pan and fry the chicory on both sides untiI

r large head of chicory

4-5 tablespoons caster sugar
5

sed. Pour in the stock, season and cool<, uncovered, until the

tablespoons otive oil

Chicl<en Stocl< (page zro)

- :"-der when pressed and the stocl< has totally reduced, about zo

3ooml Fish Stock (page zo9) or

-.-':,eandsetaside.

.. -ake the sauce. Split open the cardamom pods with your finger ,'-:cl the seeds. Whiz the tomatoes in a btender or food processor
: ga:. sugar and cardamom seeds. Pass though a sieve into a

teaspoon mild curry powder

fine sea salt

',,::ingwith the

bacl<of a [adte.

'-:
:
,',

Sauce: 5 cardamom pods 4oog vine-ripened tomatoes, halved z teaspoons sherry vinegar
2

roiI and cool<forro minutes untiI reduced by hatf. Pour in the

in the butter pieces. Season and set arm.

: --ner for z minutes, then whisl<

---',, powder with r/z teaspoons fine sea satt and sprinl<le over the fish

teaspoons caster sugar

,:
-

rghtty. Heat the remaining oit in a frying pan and fry the fish, sl<inside for no

r5omI doubte cream

5og butter, diced
sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

':: z-3 minutes. Flip over carefully and cool< the other : -1rn utes.

'-:

chicory, then lay each halfon a chopping board and slash

l<nife. Place on the centre of warmed plates and press tricl<[e over any pan juices, then

pepper

,. ,','ith a sharp
:
Sai.lCe afOUnq.

-: . to fan out. Lay the fish on top,

{:,l*qffiErffi T#ffi w. often season white fish with a curry spiced salt to enhance the flavour. Mixing the curry powder or other powdered spice with salt enables you to appty a tight,
even sprinkling and avoids'cLumping'.

Fish

31

llt

%,

i'''

\",

,...t!;:i':t':

I' I t,:

i' ' .'r. l:l i..,ii"

:,'.

l- , fo

impart a deiicate f lavour, drizzle a little otive oilon to the red mu{let sl<in, then sprinkle with saffron strands and rub with
your fingertips. Leave to infuse for 5 minutes, or so. You'lI find the saffron flavour permeates the fish and the skin cool<s to a deep gotden red cotour.

-.

nerm salad of saffron red mullet with ratatouille

,.:voLlrs, this eye-catching dish makes an inviting starter or chic light meal. Red mullet are increasingly on :..sermarkets. Although we tend to regard them as a Mediterranean species, many are caught in our own

. get your - ^-e condition. Buy whole flsh and filtet them yourself (following the instructions below), or , , - ish co unter to do so for you. I like to enhance their attractive red-pink skins with saffron (see below).
r 5 a S-ARTER OR LIGHT MEAL

er filLets carefutty with your fingertips for pin bones, removing any lf the fittets are [arge, cut each in two crossways. Place

4 smatl red multet about z5og each,

- 'r, eezers.

or z larger ones about 5oog each,

:.

-3 on a tray. Mixthe saffron strands with z tabtespoons otive oil

fitteted (see betow) r5oml olive oit, ptus extra to drizzle

large pinch of saffron strands

^= '-sh. Rub to adhere and set aside to infuse for 5-ro minutes.

.,,: z tablespoons olive oiI in a saucepan and gentty saut6 the

:::'s

for about 5-7 minutes until softened. Remove and set aside

z red peppers, cored, seeded and finely chopped zoog Mayonnaise (page zr9) r yellow pepper, cored, seeded and finety chopped

'::
:

f,eppers in a food processor until smooth and creamy. Add to

-:

stlr untit well btended. Set aside.

- : : ^s of the remaining oiI in a frying pan and gently saut6 the softened, about 5 minutes. Add the chopped courgette and

-:

r large courgette, finely chopped r medium aubergine, finety chopped r large plum tomato
r tablespoon chopped basit
sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

'
:
.,

- :rd

cook for 5-ro minutes untiI the vegetabtes are tender. :-e tomato in a bowl of boiting water for a few seconds, then :3e skin. Halve, deseed, core and finety chop the tomato

. :"

'r:atouiIte atong with the remaining red pepper, and chopped

':i3S0nlng.

pepper

::!K,

season the red muttet fittets with satt and pepper. Heat
a large heavy-based

. 'i:.espoons oil in
rs hot, add the

frying pan over a high

:: - ^ites untitthe sl<in is reatly crispy. Tal<e the pan off the heat
,: ':-

filtets, sl<in-side down, and cool< on this side

Yffi ffi$$-LffiY ffiffiffi ffiffi$-ft-ffiT

Lay the fish on a board and bend

5 minutes. The fish wil[ be three-quarters cool<ed when you

i-

: ',viLi continue to cool< as it rests. and top with the red muttet f,epper mayonnaise with a littte water if necessary and drizzte serving. Serve the rest separatety.

inwards in a slight curve. With a sharp fitleting knife, slit the skin from head

,:: -,ile between warmed plates

'::

to tail along the backbone, then cut across just below the head to the
backbone. Starting at the head end and keeping the knife flat, skim it across the bones to detach the fillet.
Turn the fish over and remove the

,.-

second fillet in this way. Trim to neaten. lf using two larger fish, cut the 4 fillets

in half crossways. Don't discard the bones and heads - use to make stock.

Fish 33

trout rittettes in olive oil

Poachfresh,meatytroutfilletsinoliveoil,thenflakeandpressintoramekinstomakeareallysimple
anddeliciousstarter.servewithcrisp,Melba-stylesourdoughtoasts'SERVES6ASASTARTER about 5oog fresh trout fittets' skinned (see betow) oit 3oomt tight olive
z tabtesPoons choPPed coriander z tabtesPoons crdme fraiche generous squeeze of temon iuice btack sea salt and freshtY ground pepper
(see sourdough toasts, to serve

by running your r Check the trout filtets for pin bones

any with tweezers' fingertips over the flesh, removing frying pan over a mediumz Heat the otive oit in a medium it wilt tal<e about low heat to a temperature of loooC;

z-3 minutes to reach this temperature'

the oit' fittets so they are submerged in 3 Lower in the fish shoutd poach not fry' then turn the heat to low - the fish
Cool<

are tightty for 4-5 minutes untit the trout fittets pinl< in the centre' and tightty cotoured on the outside, stitt

betow)

springY to the touch' from the oit and drain on kitchen 4 Lift the trout fitlets untiI cooI enough paper. Transfer them to a ptate and leave

to handte, then ftake using a fork' salt and trout into a bowl and season with 5 Tip the ffaked

crEme fraiche pepper to taste' Add the chopped coriander' moisten with a and lemon iuice to taste' lf til<ed' oit' Spoon into tablespoon or two of the poaching ramel<ins, cover and chi[t'

drffi,

rnfrr'

toasts' 6 Serve the trout rittettes with sourdough

fle

.il.trr',

.{tfr
,s,

"[,i...u,i;l:til$li'iflq1{}1"9'j'tr1ilf^?-tY$ Lavthetroutfittet'skin-sidedown'ona
boardandmakeacutatthetailendsoyoucanliftthefittetslightlyfromthesl<in. between the flesh and
and run u sharp medium knife Grasp the skin with satted fingers knife at a slight angle' to separate blade against the sl<in and the

dmr

#l#

the skin, hctdingthe

the fillet.

p"n'ut oven to 17ooc' Gas 3' cut 6 medium h,{"}Llt4.il,q}iiflifi l"t*}"fq,:bT# pale gorden brown on both sides' cut

toart tightty untir stices ofsourdough bread.na in two' Place n"uiftniie' split each stice horizonially fong u using then, off the crusts bread starts the until and bake for about ro minutes these thin siices on a baking sheet toasts These cool' they the slices wilf crisp up as to curt. Cool siightty before serving in an airtight contalner' can be prepared ahead and kept

34

Fish

pan-fried salmon with bacon and red wine sauce

' ::.:'t enough to take a smoky bacon and red wine sauce, especially if you accompany it with buttered spinach ^. cf sweet, young clrrots. I serve the fish with its crisp-fried skin uppermost, because it looks so temptinq.

'",:J*ASAMAINDISH

-on fitlets to neaten if necessary, then score the

: ,';ith salt and pepper; set aside.

sl<in (see betow)

4 thicl<-cut salmon

fillets, about

r4og each z carrots, peeled

5og butter

. i

sauce, heat a large, wide pan untiI reatly hot, then add the olive oil
a minute or two untiI browned. Add the shattots

,::;te the [ardons for

and herbs, and cool< until softened and carametised, about

roomI Chicken Stocl< (page zro) or water 4-5 tablespoons olive oil about zoog baby spinach leaves
sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

:gLaze with the port, then add the wine and cool< until reduced by
-^,.rr in the two stocl<s and add pepper to taste. (you

won't need salt

with the

ardons are satty.) Bring to the boit and simmer, uncovered, until

::f. about r5-zo minutes. Strain through

a sieve, pressing

:. Set aside. 'r: lulienne, cut the carrots into [ong thin slices, then into very thin -:tf the butter in a pan and saut6 the carrots for a minute or so. Add
:<en stocl< or water and a little seasoning. Simmer, uncovered, for :es untitthe tiquid is totally reduced and the carrots are gtazed. Set
,,,

pepper

Souce:
3

tablespoons otive oil

roog [ardons or diced smol<ed bacon

arm.

r large or 3 small sha[tots, finety

chopped z fat garlic cloves, chopped

:spoons olive oiI and the remaining butter in a pan and saut6 the rinute or two, untit.iust wilted. Remove from the heat and season: -= salmon filtets, heat a non-sticl< frying pan untit hot and add
- - :.s oLive oil. Fry the satmon, sl<in-side down, for 3 minutes. Flip over

r thyme sprig

r rosemary sprig r bay leaf

3

-.. rther side for r-z minutes. The ftesh shoutd be tightty springy when
..:son lightty.

tablespoons port

rzoml red wine

4ooml Fish Stock (page zo9)
5oomI Chicl<en Stock (page zro)

-:^eat the sauce. Place a mound ofspinach in the centre ofeach

'::
.,.

and pour over the sauce. Lay a salmon fillet, sl<in-slde up, on top
<e and serve immediatelv.

:^ a Littte pile of carrot julienne. Drizzle a littte olive oiI around the

S ffi f i 9$ $"{ ';r.i $4: fi Fr$ u se a razo r-s harp kn ire, s u ch as a craft knife or scalpet. Worl<ing across the grain of the sl(in, make shallow cuts just though to the flesh at 5mm intervals, leaving a rcm border at the edges.

"f-{}

il# fr

Fish

35

aromatic steamed cod fittets

Thick, juicy cod fillets are steamed over water that is intensely flavoured with o medley of spices, fresh

herbs and aromatics. The steqm permeates the fish to impart a delicate, lingering flavour thot is quite

sensational. NaturallU the fish must be very fresh and thickly cut. Firm flesh is

good indicator - flesh

that appears to be separating into flakes is beginning to stale. But if you con't find the best cod, then use chunkV hqke, haddock or sea bass ftllets instead. The steaming water can be re'used: simply strain
to remove the flavourings, refrigerate and use within a couple of days. SERVES 4 AS A MAIN DISH
4 thick-cut cod fi[[ets, about

r Check the cod fittets for any residual bones by running

your fingertips over the flesh. lfyou feel any, pull them out with your fingers or thin ptiers. Wrap the fittets tightty in
cting fitm and chitt. (lf possibte, leave them wrapped in the

r75-zoog each
r.5 litres water
5 star anise

r cinnamon stick
ro cardamom pods ro cloves

fridge overnight to set the shape.) z Put the water into a large pan that witt tal<e a [arge
steamer. Add att the spices, parstey, thyme, bay [eaf,

r-z tablespoons pink or Sichuan

peppercorns targe handful of parsley sprigs

shallots, garlic, vanilla pod and lemon stices. Bring to the

boit, then lower the heat and simmer for ro minutes. Take off the heat and set aside to infuse for an hour or so.
3 When ready

few large thyme sprigs

to cook, unwrap the cod. Bring the water and

r large bay leaf

3 shallots, sliced

aromatics bacl< to the boit. Line the base of the steamer

with lettuce leaves and scatter with the basi[, tarragon and
rosemary. Place the cod on top and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle with otive oil.

/zhead garlic r vanilla pod, split

r lemon, cut into 5 slices
about 8 large lettuce leaves, to [ine steamer
few small basilsprigs few tarragon sprigs

4 Fit the steamer over the pan of simmering water, cover and cool< the fish fittets for 4-6 minutes. To test, check that the ftesh feets firm when pressed, but take care as steam
can easily scatd. Lift the fish filtets on to warmed ptates. Serve with Whote Spice Basmati Pitaff (page ro3) or ptain

few rosemary sprigs tight otive oi[, to drizzle

sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

boited rice, and vegetables ofyour choice.

pepper

l5

Fish

t*

salad of seared tuna with a saut6 of treviso

I use a portion cut from the tail end of a whole tuna loin for this dish and marinate it overnight. Simply scatter thinly pared

strips of orange and lemon zest over the tuna and sprinkle with coarse rock salt, then wrap in cling film and leave in the fridge overnight. This simple technique really improves the texture of this meaty fish. Remember to bring it back to room
temperature about half an hour before cooking. Alternatively, you can use ready sliced tuna steqks, as long as they are neatly

trimmed and of even thickness. SERVES 4AS A MAIN DISH

4 tuna steal<s, preferably freshly cut

r lf necessary, trim the tuna steal<s. Mix hatf the otive oit with the mustard, honey
and soy sauce, and smear a[[ over the steal<s. Shal<e the pepper on to a sheet of greaseproof paper and press the steal<s in the pepper untiI evenly coated.
z Trim the ends of the treviso and stice in hatf lengthways. Set aside while you
cool< the

from the toin (tait end), about rzog each and rcm thicl<

rooml olive oil

z tablespoons Dijon mustard
1

tuna.

teaspoon clear honey

2 teaspoons soy sauce

3 Heat r tabtespoon of the remaining otive oiI in a [arge frying pan until very hot and fry the tuna steal<s over a high heat for 45 seconds - r minute on each side; remove and set aside to rest while you cool< the treviso. 4 Preheat a large heavy-based frying pan until atmost smoking. Dust the treviso liberatty with sifted icing sugar, then drizzte with the remaining olive oil. Place

6-8 tablespoons cracl<ed blacl<

pepper 4 smal[ heads of treviso (red chicory) or radicchio icing sugar, sifted, to dust

cut-side down in the pan and cool< for about r-tl/z minules, turning often, until they caramelise on the surface and start to wilt.
5 Divide the treviso between warmed serving plates. Cut each tuna steal< in half

r [emon, quartered

and place atongside. Squeeze over lemon juice to taste and drizzle over any pan iuices to serve.

l-:t:',-jlii:.1.:1,
11.

,.,.ii:i:t

r.a :t-i:,

: i,, li.

,.r r.:.,,1t1;, This is a great technique lor

sweetening bitter leaves, to serve as a warm salad. Hatve small heads of treviso, radicchio or white chicory Lengthways and set aside for 5-ro minutes to attow the bitter juices to exude. Then sprinl<te generously with sifted icing sugar and drizzle with otive oi[. Sear, cut-side down, in a smol<ing hot pan, and cool<, turning often, untitjust wilted and caramelised.

Fish

pan-fried bream with ceteriac veloute

Gitt.headed bream, or dorade, is a

versatile

fish

that

can

pur6e of celeriac' veloutd style sauce, thickened with a braised celery SERVES 4 AS A MAIN DlSH

a delicate or full flavoured sauce' Here it served teaming it with girolles To add to the earthy feel' I suggest
take

js

with a
and

about 4 gilt-headed bream filtets'

rzog each

any that you find with tweezers r Trim the fish and checr< for pin bones, removing or your fingertips. Set aside in the fridge'

smatl ceteriac

zToma|<ethesauce,peetthece[eriacandcutintosmattdice.Heat3ogbutterin a[argesaucepanancgentlysaut6theceteriacforabout5minutesuntittightty
it evaporates' about 3 minutes' Pour in browned. Add the wine and cool< untiI and simmer gently for ro-r5 minutes hatf the stock and bring to the boit. cover untit the ceteriac is soft. whiz' transfer the celeriac to a food processor and 3 With a slotted spoon, a smooth sauce' Strain adding stocl< from the pan until you have
graduatty

9og butter roomI drY white wine 6ooml Fish Stocl< (Page zo9) or Chicl<en Stocl< (Page zro) rooml double cream
z smatl heads celerY, about z5og in totat z tabtesPoons otive oil, Plus extra

to cool< fish r thyme sPrig, leaves ontY zoog giroItes (or chantereltes), trimmed
5og babY leaf sPinach sea salt and freshlY ground blacl< pepper

rubbing with the bacl< of a tadte' Add the through a fine sieve bacl< into the pan' Season and set aside' cream and bubbte gentty for z minutes' quarter of into thin batons' about 6cm tong' Heat a 4 Meanwhile, cut the cetery

theremainingbutterandrtablespoonoliveoilinapanandsaut6thecelerywith
thethymeleavesfor5minutes;don'tatlowtobrown.Pourintheremainingstoc|< andsimmer,uncovered,forrominutesoruntilsoftened'Drainifnecessary'and
season with satt and PePPer' drain in a colander and pat dry with Rinse the girotles quicl<ty in tepid water'
5

|(itchenpaper.Hatveorquarter[argerones'Heathatftheremainingbutterwith r tablespoon otive oit in

a

a high frying pan' When hot' saut6 the giroltes over remaining the remove from the pan' Add heat for about 3 minutes' Season and

buttertothepanandstir.frythespinachforr-zminutesuntitjustwilted.Season
and set aside; l<eeP warm'

6Tocool<thefish,heatanon-sticl<fryingpanuntityoucanfeetagoodheat
season the ftesh rising, then pour in a thin fitm of olt' Quicl<ty for 3-31 minutes, then turn and otace sr<in_side down in the pan. cook

side of the fish and

coor<

for

f,

ilrit !rit'r:i

l,j

i'i

3osecondsorso,untiIthefteshfeelsfirm'Removeandleavetorestwhi[eyou
i: I i,.lli,"i"
';1

reheat the sauce and celerY'

7 To

their deticate texture, 90% of the cool<ing time should be on the sl<in side. This helps protect the flesh and gives the sl<in a crisp texture and inviting colour. To check that it is cool<ed, press the flesh with the back of a fork. lt should feel just flrm with a very stight'give'. Never overcook fish'
To preserve

plates and spoon over a littte serve, divide the spinach between warmed on top and surround with the celery and sauce. Place the bream, skin-side up' leaving the fish sl<in girottes. Spoon the hot sauce over the vegetables' uncovered. Serve immediatetY'

4o

sa bass bal<ed on a bed of herbs

'-

tle recipe, but

the flavours are superb. A whole sea bass is cooked on a lavish bed of herbs in a sealed

foil

, . en. Don't failto savour the full aroma as you open the parcel

- it is simply divine. Farmed

sea bass is widely

:'efer to buy naturolly caught fish that has a greater depth

, .uy

of flavour and looks so beautiful. You don't need

To

:-e herbs listed below, but use at least four of them. The cooking juices make the accompanying sauce.
two fish and cook them in separate foil parcels. (lLlustrated overLeaf) SERVES z AS A MAIN D|SH

". :e
:r

of the fish wett, mal<ing sure the central blood lines are washed

r whole sea bass, about Soog-rl<9,

scaled and gutted

pat dry, inside and out. Score the = :aiI and fins using scissors, and on both sides, with the tip of a very sharp l<nife. Rub the skin pepper. Tear off two large sheets of foil,

t:s

r tablespoon olive oil, plus extra to drizzle

4 bay teaves

'-d season with salt and *r:'n square and set aside. : .sroon oil in a large

heavy-based frying pan. Lay the fish in the pan seal and crisp the sl<in

handful of rosemary sprigs handfut of thyme sprigs handfut of tarragon sprigs handfuI of basiI sprigs handful of sage sprigs

'.
le

, 'or about 3o seconds on each side to

-'

:,e

from the heat.

' :-e foil squares on a worl< surface. Scatter the herbs, lemon grass
rf

rith ock
rd

. . ,:r the centre of the foiI sheet and lay the whole sea bass on the :=:. Drizzle with a tittte more otive oil and tucl< the [emon stices
,.

4-5 lemon grass stems, stit in hatf

tengthways
4 star anise
1

'

,t''r

toor.ty with the other square of foit and fotd the edges together
should form a roomy tent around the sea bass, allowing
cool< the fish. Place the foiI parcet in a roasting

,
rh

-re foil

teaspoon mixed peppercorns

-:.am to surround and

r large lemon, thickly sliced and

caramelised (see overleaf ) sea salt and freshty ground blacl<
pepper

' ;srde in a cooI place to infuse for r-z hours untiI ready to cook. '-e oven to r8ooC, Gas 4. Put the roastingtin in the centre ofthe
': - about zo minutes untiI the fish is onty just
cool<ed.

oven

l50n

'-rm the oven and leave the fish to rest, stitt wrapped, for 5-ro minutes . :9. Unwrap the sea bass parcel atthetable and spoon the tasty
. :es over the fish as vou serve it.

and

for
ru

Fish

47

-.!:-

: : : :iia.,e.iL\/ :r :: -, :l -l :i Sea. . r :: -. r- 5 -r:'.aa Sea :r:ri ai fi-Cfe CCmple)r. :::. .o ri: ''r.' . - i i [emon 5i]ces witli a , :t.e t[ \re oii fo'e fe,,"! ]ii iuias L.t l irey begin to aatafle t.|
arourd the edges. ycLL will find ihe .-'c ty' lJ!o,r 5: t e^) l e, dt c rai<es on a different characie

*
\e

Y-'

*
,,.. '=
',1',

,?:.t

.,
4i

ry t
lffi
'l
-.,i' ,"t'

:,ir;ii

.:
S,r

::i

..

!;.1

i!.
'i:1

i:{;,

;:1,:ll

a.

?
-!&At,:

;
.

't'r.,.

:.
.F'

,"--,#-*

monl<fish in Parma ham on creamed Savoy cabbage

'ish is now one of, if not the most expensive fish that you can buy. ln recent years this superb, meaty fish has become :singLy popular and as demand exceeds supply, so the price rockets. lt is the tail that we eqt
'Ced. The central cartilaginous bone that runs the length of the taiL is removed to give two
.e

the huge, bony head is

fillets. You will also need to

the outer grey membrane, using a very sharp knife. Here the monkfish fillets are wrapped in Parma ham and served
SERVES 4 AS A MAIN DlSH

:ed of creamy cabbage with diced celeriac and carrots.

, "g

a sharp l<nife, remove as much of the

thin grey membrane that covers the

r monkfish tail, about 6oo9

about r.5og sliced Parma ham z large carrots

- :s possible. Fittet the monl<fish by removing the central bone to give two ::,,fillets.

: -:. the Parma

-:g
:::.:::-:

ham slices, stightty overlapping, on a surface lined with a sheet

/,
:.

cel,eriac

film. Place the two monl<fish fittets in the middte, laying them side by

small Savoy cabbage

:,.2*
'::t:23

::.

but head to taiI end. Wrap the Parma ham around the monl<fish, mal<ing

about z tablespoons olive oil

5og butter z5omI double cream
sea salt and freshly ground black

:.,,ita :::*ta
,

'. ii is completely covered. Wrap the parcet tightty

' :-e shape. (You can do this
a day in advance.)

a:t::ta:: -F-'.',: _-,

in cling film. Twist the ends '- e cling film to tighten ihe wrapping and chitt for at least r hour - this helps

,q-3
:" l

:?Vil:t: .j:':at?
..11:

:=ei and dice the carrots and celeriac. Quarter the cabbage and remove the

pepper

,:,.X,

.r,1

'.'
':d

[eaves. Cut out the core, then shred the cabbage finely. Bring a large pan of

water to the boil. Have ready a large bowl of iced water.

a*

-i

anch the carrots and celeriac in boiting satted water for z minutes, remove

'^ a slotted spoon and refresh in cold water. Drain and set aside. Blanch the
--:dded cabbage in the same way, atlowing r minute. Refresh in iced water,

-.:- drain again.

i,', -en ready to cool< the fish, preheat the oven to r8ooC, Gas 4 (see right). . .-ove the cling film from the monl<fish parce[, then tie at intervats with string
-oLd the shape. Heat the olive oil and butter in a frying pan and when

it

'-3ins to foam, Iower in the monl<fish parceI and -* .ninutes untiI browned all over.

cool<,

turning frequently, for

: -i
:st

the monl<fish parceI into an ovenproof dish, drizzle overthe pan juices and
in the oven for

ffi ffi :--i#

,.,1.;,7

':
=
..

5-6 minutes untilthe fish is just firm. Remove from the oven

leave

to rest in a warm place for 5 minutes.

','eanwhite, pour the cream into a [arge saucepan, bring to the boit and allow to

role untiI reduced by hatl then mix into the vegetables. Season to taste and

:<for
3 -l

rz

minutes.

serve, remove the string from the fish parcet, then cut into 8 thick pieces.

, de the creamyvegetables between warmed serving plates and arrange the

r'-'na-wrapped monkfish on top.

;: i"i ,lll#.{*ltli;'1" rrvou find it more convenient to cool< this dish entirety on the hob (and, like me, you are happy to use cting film as a wrapping for steamed food) try the following method - it worl<s briltiantty, Put the wrapped monkfish parceI in a steamer over boiling water, cover and steam for 4 5 minutes. Tal(e out of the steamer and leave to rest for 5 minutes, then remove the cling fitm. Heat the butter and olive oiI in a frying pan until foaming, add the monl<fish parceI and pan-fry, turning, for 3-4 minutes until cooked.

ilt]itir

*;|

ffi

Fish 45

Dover sole studded with herb cloutes

like to cook and serve Dover sole in a simple way to lppreciate its fine flavour. For this dish I spike the It is best served 1sh with herb cloutes, cook it briefly on a griddle, then roast the fish in foaming butter. you can use expensive, or too simply too, with green beans or o solad. If Dover sole is unavailable
t

lemon sole instead. SERVES z AS A MAIN D|SH

z Dover soles, about 5oog each z large rosemary sprigs (preferably with woody stems)

r Cut away the fins, then remove the

darl<

skin and heads

from the sole. Trim the taits. Wash the fish gentty and pat dry. Preheat the oven to r8ooC, Gas 4.

rz large basi[ leaves

r tablespoon olive oil roog butter, in pieces z bay leaves
few thyme sprigs splash of dry white wine
sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

z Break the rosemary into smalter sprigs and wrap each

sprig tightty in a basi[ [eaf, to mal<e rz cloutes (see betow).

3 Ptace the sole sl<inned-side uppermost on a board and insert the stems of the herb cloutes into the fish. Heat the
otive oiI in a large frying pan or ridged griddte pan and panfry the fish for 3o seconds on each side. Meanwhite' heat the butter in a smatl pan untiI metted and foaming.

pepper

4 Pour the foaming butter into a large bal<ing tin and lay the Dover soles in the tin. Scatter the bay leaves and thyme sprigs on top of the fish and drizzte over the white wine.
Season with satt and pepper. Bal<e for 8-ro minutes, basting the fish once or twice, untitthe ftesh feels firm and flakes easily from the bone.

,d*

46

Fish

roast chicken with herbs and cardamom carrots

the legs take different lengths of time to cook' Remove from problem with roasting a large chicken is that the breast and and cooked is meat leg meat is invariably undercooked- wait until the thigh oven when the breast is juicy and tender, and the meat' or use for Roast the legs separately to serve with the breast the breast will be dry, The trick is to coo]< them apart, Dauphinoise (page cz) for the ultimate sunday lunch' another recipe. serve the chicken with creamy Pommes
The

SERVESa-6AS A MAIN DISH

r large free'range chicken, about zl<g zoog butter, softened

3

tabtespoons choPPed ParsteY

r large carrot r [arge r onion

z celery sticl<s
[eel<

breast, pull the chic|<en tegs, slash the s|<in between the thighs and and separate the legs the tegs right out and distocate the joints, then cut through from the bodyl chop off the bony ends' Lift up the necl< sl<in to z Remove the wishbone to mal<e the breast easy to carve'
To remove

exposethewishboneandcutthisawayfromtheftesh'usingarazorsharpknife.
tip ln and smash down with Where the tip meets the breastbone, sticl< the l<nife
your fist to breal< it for easy removat
Mix hatf the softened butter with the 3 Preheat the oven to r9ooC, Gas 5' herb butter between the chopped parstey and season with pepper' Insert the

gartic cloves, "/rhead of garlic or 5

peeled

handfut of thYme sPrigs

few small rosemarY sPrigs

breastsl<inandftesh(seebetow).Thecrownofchic|<enisnowreadytoroast.

4Chopthetargecarrot,teel<,onionandceleryandplaceinaroastingtin'Sit
herb sprigs over the the chicl<en crown on top. Scatter the gartic ctoves and

r lemon, halved
5oog babY carrots, with toPs 6 cardamom Pods
sea salt and freshlY ground blacl<

surroundingvegetables.Seasonthechicl<ensl<inandptacethetwotemonha[ves
in the bodY cavitY.

pepper

basting the chicl<en with the pan juices 3 or 4 5 Roast for about 3o minutes, (The tegs can be roasted Separatety; times, to hetp brown and crisp the sl<in. altow about 45 minutes.) green statls' Melt the 6 Meanwhite, trim the carrots, leaving on a tittte of the the baby carrots with the remaining butter in a heavy'based frying pan and cool<

cardamompodsandseasoningoveramediumheatforaboutr5minutes,turning
occasionatly, until tender and caramelised'
7

cooked. Insert a thin sl<ewer when the chicl<en breast feels firm' checl< that it is lf they are pink' roast for into the thicl<est part: if the juices are ctear it is done'

another ro minutes or so.

SRemovethecrownroasttoawarmedservingdish,coverwithaloose.tent'of
The iuices witl be refoit and leave to rest for a good r5 minutes before carving. carve the breast (and absorbed into the ftesh, making it even more succulent'

tegsifroastedatthesametime)'servewiththecardamomcarrots'ancl
Dauphinoise Potatoes ifYou tike'

Pou(try and game birds

battottine of chicl<en with grainy mustard sauce

Flavour is especiaily important when

3*

it

comes to chicken

poulet de Bresse are in

I

recipe' look for good' speciatity poultry farmers in this country' For this am increasingty impressed with birds raised by smal! under the breastbone removed' boned breast and wing with the smatl fitlet that lies plump free-range chicken suprmes with grainy and poached, then served with a creamy velout6 flavoured The suprmes are stuffed with herby sausage meat (page c6). SERVES 4 As A MAIN DlsH mustard. serve with pasta or Pomme Pur6e

class oftheir own. I

France' but buy these fine-flavoured, plump-breasted black leg chickens from

- there are too many tosteless birds around

as far as l'm concerned'

4 chicl<en suprmes' PreferabtY

poulet de Bresse
z5og good quatitY fresh sausage meat (about 4 thicl< sausages'
sl<inned)

each

Using a sharp boning knife' stit Remove any sinews from the chicl<en supr6mes' way through, then open chicl<en breast horizontalty, three quarters of the

out flat. Season the inside with satt and pepper'

zMixthesausagemeatwiththechoppedherbsandspreadoverthechicker.'
Rott up

ends wetl for tightty and wrap in severat turns of cting fitm' twisting the

r tabtespoon choPPed cherviI or parstey r tablespoon choPPed tarragon

good sea[. Chitt in the refrigerator for a couple of hours' chicl<en rotls and poach Bring a [arge shaltow pan of water to the boit' Add the

foraboutr5minutesuntittheyfeetjustfirmwhenpressed,Havereadyalarge
iced water and teave for bowt of iced water. Stide the chicken rolts into the

3oo-4ooml Chicken Vetout

(page zrz)

ro-r5minutestocoorquic|<[y.Liftoutofthewaterandremovetheclingfitm'
4Meanwhite,reheatthechic|<envetout6andstirinthegrainymustard.Tasteand
adiust the seasoning.
in a [arge frying pan' When it starts to foam' add 5 Heat the olive oiI and butter untit nicely browned att the chicken rolls and fry, turning, for about 5 minutes over. Leave to stand in a warm ptace for 5 minutes'

r tablespoon wholegrain mustard z tablesPoons olive oil

large l<nob of butter
sea salt and freshlY ground blacl<

pepper

6Toserve'slicethebattottinesintoroundsandarrangeonwarmedplates'ona
Pour over the vetout6 and serve smatl mound of creamy pomme pur6e if you til<e.

VARIATION Bone the tegs (or asl< your Large chicl<en tegs can oe stuffed in a similar way'

butchertodothis),ma|<ingsurethes|<inremainsintact.Placethesausagemeat atongthecentre,enctoseandtieatintervalswith|<itchenstring.Wrapinfoitand

slowroastatrTooC,Gas3foruptorhouruntiIfirmandtender,thenserve.

52

PoultrY and game birds

sisussin with a veloutd of navets and white beans

.=

with an interesting accompaniment' Here se tender, baby chickens, or'spring chickens" and serve them
beans in a

: : .aricot
.

chicken veloutd

scented with chervil, chives and truffle oit

- fit the bill'

You

will need to

:-s

winter dish' ond \repare some velout| in advance. This is a really nice then drain and place in
a

SERVES 4 AS A MAIN DISH

!: reans in cold water overnight,

rz59 dried haricot beans r sma[[ onion, sliced

:ienty of cold water to cover, bring to the boit, and add the onion' :af. Simmer for r hour or until just tender' Drain, refresh under

r small carrot, halved r bay leaf

16 baby turniPs (navets)

,::er and drain again, discarding the flavourings' Season and set :-e
oven to r9ooC, Gas 5.

::v turnips :

in boiting water for a minute or so, then drain and

Peel the turnips thinty, cut into quarters and

-:.d running water.

: and pepper.

4 poussins, 4oo-5oog each about 4og butter, metted

--ssinswiththemettedbutterandseason.Coverthebreastofeach :: rer or a small piece of foi[. Roast for about zo-25 minutes until

3ooml Chicl<en Vetout6 (Page zrz) r tablespoon choPPed cherviI r tablespoon choPPed chives
few drops of truffle oit

::

<

pink juices the poussins, pierce between the leg and breast: if

:- extra 5-ro minutes in the oven. :,i the haricot beans and babyturnips into a saucepan with the
' -g to the boit. Simmer, ::c
-

rooml Vinaigrette (Page zr8) sea salt and freshtY ground blacl<
pepper

uncovered, for ro minutes or so' untilthe herbs by one third. Checl< the seasoning and stir in the chopped

place for ro minutes before -ssins are cooked, rest in a warm - cff the pan luices into a smatl saucepan, heat untit bubbting' then

, -aigrette.
,

':

ihe birds whole or jointed if you prefer (see below)' Divide the rs and white beans between warmed serving plates' Sit the
and drizzle over the vinaigrette sauce to serve'

{-Hf,F't.li *f--HflftilT*
I prefer

Poussins are often served whole, but to cut them up to make life easier for my guests' Using a We sharp l<nife, cut through the thigh joint and remove the legs' place' but in drumstick the leaving then putt out the thigh bone, in you don't have to do this. Carefutly cut the breasts from the bone poussin one piece and discard the carcasses. Arrange the whole breasts and legs on the Plates.

Poultry and game

birds

53

filaridges chicken ple

. :e
,.

on

the menu

at claridges,

enioyed by many of

my guests. we bake the filting and pastry separately so the chicken

pies ready plated as we do, or a whole one in a .e nt, and the pastry is tight and crisp. You can either serve individual

iish (see below). SERVES 4 AS A MAIN

DISH

:.ren into zcm chunks. Dip the onions in boiting water for 30 seconds

4 sl<inless, boneless chicl<en breasts' about rzog each

:.259 baby onions

:s<ins,thenremoveandpeet.Bringthestocktotheboitinashallow .' :-ions and cookfor 5 minutes. Liftoutwith a slotted spoon'

' ;
-'

:<en, bay teaf and thyme to the stocl<. Return to a gentle simmer - minutes, then tal<e off the heat and leave to cool in the tiquid for Strain the stocl< into a lug, discard the herbs and season the (zcm strips)' Heat a quarterofthe butter in a

5oomt Chicl<en Stocl< (Page zlo)

r bay leaf
r thyme sprig
2oog pancetta or good smoked bacon, in one Piece

',r:.

,: set aside.

,-:.::a into [ardons

, r:hen

,r:< and stir-fry the pancetta untitcrispy, about 3 minutes' Remove

paper. WiPe out the Pan.

roog butter
z5og shemigi mushrooms, or babY

'-,.ingbutterinthepan.Whenitstartstofoam,addthemushrooms ' :30ut 7 minutes untiI softened, seasoning to taste'

button mushrooms roomI dry sherrY zoomI double cream

z teaspoons choPPed tarragon

' :-?'f!
'

and bubbte untitwett reduced' Return the bacon and onions

in the reserved stocl<. Bringto the

: llur

boitand

cool<

until

"r

'

Add the cream and bubbte untit reduced by a

third' Add the

r tablespoon choPPed ParsleY

z5og Puff PastrY (Page r9o)

. : i :^d set aside.

'..-:ozoooC.Gas6'Rottoutthepastryonatighttyflouredsurfaceto

r egg yoU<, beaten with

water

teaspoon

' i

'.' 2 f r coin. Cut out four rounds, using a small saucer as a

sea salt and freshlY ground blacl<

,
:

.; ,r d diamond pattern, using the tip of a small sharp

:i

l<nife'

pepper

-, rvith

th e egg yotl< gtaze and bal<e for

about ro minutes until

:r -. 3ake for a further z minutes with the oven door stightty ajar, to ' - - r-<:ry. Remove from the oven and stide on to a wire rack' r:: :he mushrooms to the sauce and reheat until bubbting' then

.-

ls

. : -,ri:^

soon as the chicl<en is warmed through, checl< the seasoning rvarmed serving ptates.Topwith a pastry round and serve'

Y63 #fi#?/'H, $qS

...&

]"fu&,ilEf"f I#{ld.eE- trEH Preparethefiningasabove.cut

outonelargepastrytid,usingtheinvertedpiedishasatemplateandplaceonabaking

then score, glaze and sheet. cut the pastry tid into quarters and move them apart slightty, pie on top to serve. lid the pie assemble and dish into the fitling the bake as above. Tip

Poultry and game

birds

55

poch6-gritt6quaitwithahoneymustarddressing
Allow two per person butchers and poulterers' good supermarkets, as we, as most avairabre from can dry now quair on a griddle or barbecue oven,ready qua,s are is on the breasts. cooking meat the of Most dressing one each for a starter. them with a spiced honey for a main course, (see overreaf). Thereafter, r toss technique poached-grired a the dericate fresh, so t appry SERVES 4 AS A MAIN D|SH potatoes with a rocket salad' saut: of and serve on a bed
8 oven-readY quails

zro) r titre Chicl<en Stocl< (Page handfut of thYme sPrigs

8 smatl rosemarY sPrigs in strips finety pared zest of z times'
a

tittte otive oit, to brush

pepper

ground btack sea salt and freshtY

them with them up, then re-truss by securing un_truss the birds to toosen at the tips with string' simpty tying the legs together wooden cocl<taiI sticl(s or to the thyme sprigs and bring a medium saucepan' add z Put the chicken stocl( in then remove to a simmer and cool< for z minutes' the boit. Add the quaits' return have to do this in two batches' a colander' You may and drain upside down in quail paper' Stuff the cavity of each thoroughty dry with kitchen 3 Pat the birds few lime zest strtps' with a rosemary sprig and a in a iug and set aside' dressing ingredients together 4 Whisk the high you can feel a steady medium griddte (or barbecue) until 5 Heat a ridged

Dressing:
5

heat_nottoohighoryouwi[lchartheftesh.Lighttyoitthegriddte. Cook

tablesPoons clear honeY

r tabtesPoon soy sauce mustard r tabtesPoon coarse grain r tablesPoon Diion mustaro r tabtesPoon sesame oil

on the tightty' a tittte otive oiI and season 6 Brush the quaits tightty with with tongs' minutes' turning several times griddte (or barbecue) for about 7-ro careful not Be firm' atl over and the breasts are until the birds are gotden brown to burn the delicate ftesh' pour over the dressing' large shattow bowt and Transfer the quaits to a warmed'
7

Leavetomarinatefor5minutes'orafitttelonger'Untiethetegsandremovethe bed of sliced

quaits on a the cavities' Serve the rosemary and time zest from rocl<et salad' saut6ed potatoes with a

56

PouttrY and game birds

## ##

5B Porllrv ard game b rds

--:

_ .

.* ,,'::;: ':tf'
:t
-

_=*

-_;,,,

Pouttry and game

birds

59

ducl<'bresaola'
Skinned duck breasts are dry-cured in a spiced salt over a period of 4 days, then cut into wafer-thin slices, carpaccio-style, an eosy and impressive starter. LJse very fresh, prime quality meat - either one large Barbary duck breast, or z smaller

for

with chicory leaves, or a leafy from a Gressingham duck. Both have a mild gamey flavour that suits marinating. Serve salad dressed with walnut vinaigrette. SERVES zl-6 AS A STARTER
ones

r large Barbary ducl< breast, about

4oog, or z smaller Gressingham duck breasts, about zz59 each

r Turn the fridge to its lowest setting, z-3oc maximum. Remove the fat from the
ducl< breasts and trim away any sinews, then ptace the trimmed breasts in a

shattow dish.

2o-3og coarse sea salt

% teaspoon blacl< peppercorns
4 star anise, brol<en up

z Grind the satt, peppercorns, star anise pieces and coriander together' using pestle and mortar or an electric spice grinder. Mix in the grated orange and
Iemon zests.

% teaspoon coriander seeds

grated zest of r orange grated zest of r lemon olive oi[, to drizzle

and 3 spread the spiced satt mixture on top of the ducl< breasts to cover eventy press down. Cover with cting fitm and place in the fridge for z4 hours.

4 Uncover, turn the duck breasts and rub the spiced salt into the other side. By now, some satty tiquid witl have started to exude as the breasts begin to shrinl<.
Cover with cting fitm again and return to the fridge for z4 hours.

After the 48 hours, remove the breasts and rinse in cold water. Pat dry, then wrap each breast in clean mustin (not clingfitm). Ptace on a ptate and refrigerate
5

for another 48 hours to mature.

6 After this, remove the ducl< breasts from the muslin and open-freeze on a tray

for an hour to firm. Now, tal<e a razor sharp carving l<nife and stice off wafer-thin
slices at a stant in a D-shape, as you woutd cut a side of smol<ed salmon. Arrange

the ducl< slices in a circle on chitted serving plates and cover with cting film untit
ready to serve. 7 Drizzle a tittte otive oil over the ducl< slices and serve with a salad.

6O

Pouttry and game birds

rpiced roasted ducl< [egs with a sweet sour sauce

' '
'. .: ,

-'oy be the most popular cut of this rich poultry bird, but I recommend that you try slow roosting the legs. e a Layer of fat under the skin, which bastes the meat during cooking to keep it moist. I use Gressingham

;:: derived from mallard with a semi-gamey flavour. Duck legs are widely available, sold separately and relatively ' -ere they ore roasted with aromqtic spices and served with a Spanish style citrus and sherry vinegar sauce.
ii tre

i.

AS A MAIN DISH

r. - of the ducl< legs a few times with a fine sl<ewer. Mix atI the spices : 'rb into the legs. Place the ducl< in a dish and [eave to marinate in
-

4 duck legs (preferabty Gressingham)

1 1

teaspoon ground coriander teaspoon ground mace

about z hours.

' - . '-. oven to r8ooC, Gas 4. Place the duck [egs, sl<in-side up, in a ' : - :^d roast for 45-5o minutes. There is no need to baste them during - , -rry turn once or twice and roast undisturbed to allow the sl<in to ' - . : i crispy. Pour off the fat hatfway through cool<ing. (l(eep this for
: ; : :::oes.)

r teaspoon ground ginger

Sweet sour souce: 259 sugar z tablespoons clear honey

" : -cks are very tender, transfer to a warmed plate

and leave to rest,

r5oml sherry vinegar juice of z oranges juice of z lemons

pan juices from the roasted ducl< legs

" , .' -g tin and add the honey. Cool< on the hob, stirring with a wooden . " -ice[y caramelised.
i-

:,

-+

/, :n the sherryvinegar and allow to bubbte until reduced by half. Stir

a

large knob of butter

sea salt and freshly ground black

" "

,"3 and lemon juices and bubble again until reduced by half. Strain the

-g: : :;::ler

fine sieve into a bowl and beat in a knob of butter. Season wlth
to taste.

pepper

.. 'i :lck legs with the sweet sour sauce. Crispy saut6ed potatoes and a
. ;alad are good accompaniments.

Poultry and game

birds 6t

breast of guinea fowl with pomegranate dressing

meat and game dishes' Here it is reduced pomegranates are popuLar in Middte Elstern cooking, and the iuice is often used in make more pomegranate seeds' pink grapefruit and walnuts' to to concentrate the flavour, then combined with vinaigrette, same woy' guinea fowt. You could also serve quail or pheasant breasts in the an original, fragrant dressing for futt flavoured
SERVES + AS A MAIN DlSh

3 ripe pomegranates

rHalvethepomegranatesandcarefuttyScoopouttheseeds,discardingthe
cut 0ut the segments membrane. Cut the peet and pith from the grapefruit, then

r pinl< graPefruit
3 tablespoons cranberrY iuice
3

usingasmall,sharp|<nife.Roughtychopthegrapefruitflesh,reservingtheIuice. z Btitz two thirds of the pomegranate seeds in

a btender

tablespoons freshlY squeezed

orange iuice

with the cranberry'

orangeandreservedgrapefruitjuices,thenpassthroughasieveplacedovera
by about hatf' untit smatl pan, pressing with the back of a spoon' BoiI to reduce

6 tabtespoons Vinaigrette, made

with hatf otive oit, hatf watnut oil

(page zr8) z tablespoons freshtY choPPed

stightty syrupy, then add to the vinaigrette' 3

Picl<

membrane' over the remaining pomegranate seeds, removing any stray

thenaddtothedressingwiththegrapefruitSegmentsandwa[nuts;setaside.

walnuts
4 guinea fowl breasts, about rz5g
each a

4Trimtheguineafowlbreaststoneatenandrubthes|<inwithotiveoitand
pan, then fry the breasts, s|<inseasoning. Heat a heavy-based non-stick frying cool< the other side for side down, for about 3 minutes. Turn the breasts over and

little olive oi[, for cooking

pepper

r-z minutes. Do not

5

overcook the meat

- it shoutd

be very stightty pinl<.

sea salt and freshlY ground blacl<

on warmed ptates stice each guinea fowl breast horizontatty into three. Arrange

spooningthepomegranatedressinginbetween.Servewithwiltedspinachand
potatoes' Whote Spice Basmati Pitaff (page ro3) or sautEed

lh"t- H ro o t. to tr, ffi #. P&. ffi: $ {'f iffi $k {"}ltfr fl ilg lt'4. 14 these reddish-yellow hard-sl<inned fruits in markets and shops from September through to December. Use at the peak of ripeness' then when the iuice is at its sweetest. To prepare, halve vertically' all of remove to important lt is seeds' fleshy the out carefullv spoon the creamy yellow membrane, which is very bitter'
r

fi

6z

Poultry and game birds

pigeon breasts sous-viede with port and Madeira

pigeons to retain all their natural flavour and iuices' The sous-viede technique (described below) is a brilliant way of cooking sauce - you'll need to mol<e the purde in we enrich these juices with a date and orange purde to make a delicious sweet-sour pink, on small mounds of buttered spinach or blanched advance (see below). The pigeon breasts are best served stightly baby parsnips. SERVES + AS A MAIN DlSH shredded cabbage, surrounded by roasted root vegetables such as carrots and
4 wood pigeons

r sma[[ onion, sliced

1

First prepare the pigeons. cut offthe tegs and most ofthe bacl<s -these snap easity about hatfway along; reserve the tegs and bones. Trim the sides to neat 'crowns' of breast and wing ioints, cover and ptace in the fridge' z Put the pigeon tegs, bones and trimmings in a large pan with the onion, carrot, celery, bouquet garni, star anise and iuniper berries. Add about 6oomlcold water to cover and bring to the boit. Lower the heat and simmer, uncovered, for about

carrot, chopPed

r celery stick, choPPed r bouquet garni (bay [eaf, few parsley

stalks, thyme sPrig)

r star anise
4 luniper berries

quarter of the origina[ volume. Strain 45 minutes untit reduced right down to a the stock into a jug.
pan of water to boit. Place the pigeon crowns 3 When ready to cool<, bring a targe ,multi-purpose cool<ing bags'. Divide the port, Madeira and stocl< between in two possibte and them, and add the herbs and seasoning. Press out as much air as possible. seal the bags by knotting the open end, as ctose to the food as gentte simmer and cool< for 4 Drop the bags into the boiting water, return to a ro minutes for pinl< meat, shal<ing the bags twice to baste the pigeon in the iuice' lf you prefer pigeon cool<ed longer, altow an extra z-3 minutes at this stage' and rest for z minutes, then 5 Lift out the bags (teaving the water simmering)
shal<e to

z tablespoons Port z tablespoons Madeira

smatl handfuI of thYme sPrigs

z bay leaves
sea salt and fresh ground blacl<

pepper z tablespoons date and orange pur6e (see below)

6 Tal<e

distribute the contents, return to the pan and cook for another z minutes' out the bags and cut open. strain the iuices through a sieve into a small

pan, add the z tabtespoons date and orange pur6e and heat until bubbting.

Meanwhile, rest the pigeons for 5 minutes.

-i-

':"i:,i--H

i+

*:

l${;1 Li !$

--1++"

$ &.

{.} ffi

f-J +i;-]{4-{f,i

we orten appry

this in the restaurant kitchen. Smatt heatproof plastic pouches are filled with meat or vegetabtes, a smatt amount of stock or wine is added with herbs and seasonings, then the bags are vacuum-sealed and placed in pans
of simmering water. The food inside coolcs in its own.iuices and the result is
a pure simple flavour that is quite superb. Buy'multi-purpose cool<ing

the pigeon breasts in one piece; 7 Using a very sharp thin btaded l<nife, cut away they shoutd be cooked tightty pink. Arrange on warmed ptates, on mounds of spinach or cabbage ifyou til<e, and spoon over the sauce. surround with roasted
root vegetables, or serve with Ceteriac Lasagne (page rz9) ifyou prefer'

DATE AND ORANGE PUREE

We use

this pur6e to enrich many game sauces. Put rz5g chopped stoned dates,

1f roomt fresh orange juice and cinnamon sticl< in a pan and simmer for about ro-rz minutes untit the dates have softened. Discard the cinnamon sticl<. Whiz

bags'and you can do something similar at home.

the dates and juice in a blender until smooth. Spoon into a clean iar and keep in the fridge for up to r month, or freeze.

6t+

Poultry and game birds

roast grouse with lunrper and red wine sauce

' :.ts Twelfth (of August) marks the start of the grouse season, which
lasts until December rcth. lt means more to

''.'
:

thon chefs, because ideally game birds should be allowed to hang before cooking. I won't even consider putting the end of August. The red grouse in Scotland feed almost entirely on heather, which gives their

- ny menus until

..^ eue, aromatic flavour.

'i:ty gourmets would say grouse is an ocquired taste. Along with teal and partridge, this game bird needs careful " : sut, cooked properly, it can be delicious. The meat is very dark and leon, with a strong aroma, and should only ever
,

::

.:

:'grouse will serve two, but you

pink. Because it has very little fat, grouse must be'barded'with fat before roasting, to prevent it becoming dry. can easily double up the quontities to serve four SERVES z AS A MAIN D|SH
z oven-ready grouse

l-E

;-:ai the oven to zoooC, Gas 6. Tal<e out the hearts and livers from the n : . -: :avities and reserve for the game cro0tes (see betow). Lay strips of porl< " :,i-:he breasts.
:'

thin strips of porl< fat or streaky

bacon, to bard
3

:
ra5 )en
J

..

:: -alf the olive oil in a [arge heavy-based frying pan and brown the birds all

tablespoons olive oil

r"
.-

5og butter, melted and hot

, -sieT the grouse to a roasting dish, standing them upright if possible, and

r small onion, chopped

handfuI of chopped vegetables
(such as carrots, turnips, celery)
6 juniper berries

;. : - ,vith satt and pepper.

'' :. i;Drabout5minutes. r . -3 a sharp, thin btaded l<nife, remove the whote breasts from the birds; they
' :- :
'
ES
I

7-ro minutes, depending on size, basting - twice with hot butter. Remove from the oven and leave to stand in a warm Roast for

zooml red wine 5ooml Brown Chicl<en Stock

(page zro)
sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

De

nice and pinl< inside. Set aside on butter papers or greaseproof paper.
a

: -l

the legs and carcasses, return to the roasting dish and roast for

"- n' 15 minutes.

; '"rr:'while,

heat the rest of the otive oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and

pepper

'i' lhopped vegetables and cool< untiI softened and nicety caramelised, about - ^utes. Add the roasted legs and carcasses, ptus the.juniper berries and red "t ry Cook until the wine has reduced right down, then pour in the stocl<. Bring
: "-: boil and simmer untiI reduced by two thirds. Strain the sauce through
ed
a

r -: -eheat the grouse

'

'nto

jug and checl< the seasoning.

breasts, place cut'side down on the butter papers and

{"r#dfu.?h

6_"#44_$LB fi

d""*-= n

hh

Chop the grouse hearts and livers and fry in about 259 butter with a few thyme leaves for about 5 minutes. Deglaze with a splash of red wine, season to taste, then whiz to a paste in a btender or food processor. Fry neat, crustless triangles of sliced white bread in some butter until golden brown and crisp, then drain on kitchen paper. Spread the cro0tes with the grouse Liver paste to serve.

. -'^ to the oven for about 3 minutes to heat through;

don't let them overcook,

';,
.:

-:rust be pinl<. Cut each breast into stices. Serve on warmed ptates with the 3

',
tn

-:e. buttery Savoy cabbage, saut6 potatoes and the game croOtes. ::Toanv with old-fashioned bread sauce.

Pouttry and game

birds

65

I I

braised betty of pork in a rich gtaze

This spectacular dish

regularly appears on my menus.

Betly

to slow' pork may be a cheaper cut' but it responds beautifully

gentlecooking_becomingmeltingtytender.Youmayneedtoorderthjscutinadvancefromyourbutcher_persuadehimto

prepareitforyoutoo,ifyoucan.tliketoservethiswithtrufflescentedPommePurde(pagec6),lightlywiltedspinachand
A MAIN DISH steamed asparagus spears' SERVES 4 AS

r whote pork beltY ioint' about rkg

4 tablespoons otive
1

oil

carrot, choPPed

r onion, choPPed r [eek, choPPed r celerY stick, choPPed

f,head garlic or 6 fat gartic ctoves,

peeled

roomI sherrY vinegar zooml soY sauce r.5 litres Brown Chicken Stock
(page zro)
5

l<nife to cut off the sl<in' leaving a thin r To prepare the pork, use a sharp fitteting rib bones and discard' Even out the layer of fat about 5mm thicl<' Remove the areas and ptacing where the meat is thickness by tal<ing a slice from any thicl<er of boned porl< betty' Rott this up thinner. You should now have an even sheet (see overleaf)' quite firmty and tie into a neat, even-shaped rott or deep saut6 pan (with tid) untit z Heat a shattow ftameproof cast-iron casserore olive oil and brown the pork you feel a strong heat rising' Add z tabtespoons a[[ over' Remove to a plate' ioint, turning untiI carametised gartic for oil to the pan and saut6 the vegetables and 3 Add the remaining otive vinegar and cool< untit reduced by hatf' about 5 minutes. Degtaze with the sherry ptacing it on top of the vegetables' then return the pork ioint to the pan, to the boit stocl<, then add the whote spices' Bring 4 Pour in the soy sauce and

star anise

andpartiattycoverthepan.Braisestowlyoveralowheat,orintheovenatrTooC,

zo coriander seeds

with the pan juices' untit the Gas 3. Cool< for z1/z-3hours, basting occasionatty

ro white PePPercorns

meatfeelsverytender'Totest,pushametalskewerintothemiddteoftheioint;
there should be tittte resistance'

ro blacl< PePPercorns

5Liftoutthemeatandsetasidetorestonawarmedptate.Strainthepaniuices
gtaze' into a pan and bubbte to reduce to a gtossy brown

6Toserve,removethestringandcutthepor|<roltintoportions,orthic|<slices.
with witted spinach and asparagus' Arrange on warmed ptates and surround
Serve with Pomme Pur6e'

68

Meat

il

Meat

71

beef fittet with a gratin of witd mushrooms

:

;'eot way of cooking thick juicy beef fillet steaks. You do need prime quality, thick cut steaks from a neat, round ::. which can only come from a quality butcher who cuts to order. For convenience, the steaks can be seared and
"

::

the mushrooms in advance, ready to finish in a hot oven iust before serving. Ideat if you are entertaining.

* frlg
r' - :

4 AS A MAIN DISH

i': :ie

topping ahead. Gently saut6 the shaltot and garlic in I tablespoon

.;
{,:

r sha[[ot, finely chopped

':': about 5 minutes untiI nicely softened.

r fat garlic clove, crushed

4 tablespoons olive oil

:: r "' : a sieve to drain off any remaining liquid. Transfer the mushrooms to a , 'r ,.::son and mix in the herbs. A[low to coot. ' v' : "- cream untiI softty stiff, then fold into the mushrooms alongwith the -i i .. fover and chitt. i r - :-e steaks with the remaining tabtespoon of olive oiI and season them. "r . , :-ge non-sticl< frying pan until you can feel a strong heat rising. Cool< the " . . , ':' about 2-3 minutes, turning them to sear atI over. Remove from the
-,rscn and attowto coot. o ' . " ':adV to serve, heat the oven to zzooC, Gas 7. Put the steaks on a .! laking tray. Pile the mushroom mixture on top of the steal<s and dust

: , ;,'iher z tabtespoons olive oiI and saut6 the mushrooms over a high hear, ' ; '':quentty, for about 7 minutes until browned and cool<ed. Add the wine : . -qtil it has reduced away. The mixture should be quite dry. lf necessary,

roog wild mushrooms (such as ceps, girol[es, blewits, morels), trimmed

and finety chopped

roog chestnut mushrooms, chopped

z tablespoons white wine

r tablespoon each finety chopped

parsley, cherviI and chives
4 tablespoons double cream

r large egg yolk

4

filtet steaks, about r8og each and

4cm high

z tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

n
:

i--esan.

Cool<, uncovered,

: 'i d0d golden. Serve as soon as possibte, with roasted or saut6ed

for about 5-7 minutes until the topping is

rr ,:":!andaSalad.

pepper

Forthis dish,we buy a whote filetof beef, weighing approximately 6oo9. To prepare, we trim the ends and cut away any sinews, then wrap the whole fillet tightlV in cling film and chilt it overnight. This hetps to set the shape, to give you perfectly round steaks.

fl$'fl F-S Sffiflffi ffiT"

Meat /J

butter-roasted fittet of beef with baby artichokes

For a verv special roast, I buy a whole filtet of beef and cook it simply in foaming butter. Serve with sautded ortichoke hearts

and a creamy horseradish-flavoured pomme Purde (page

q6).

Trickle the irresistible buttery iuices over the beef slices and

you won't need to make a sduce. SERVES 4 AS A MAIN D|SH

r whole, thicl< fittet of beef, about

6oog
16 baby globe artichol<es, or 4 large

Checl<

that the membrane has been removed from the fittet. This is visible as

sitvery fitm

- use a razor sharp fitteting

l<nife

to remove it if necessary. Wrap the

beef fittet tightty in cting fitm, rotting it a few times and twisting the ends tightL.l

ones
5

tablespoons olive oit

to seat. Chitt for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight, to hetp set the shape' z Meanwhite, prepare and cool< the artichol<es as for Fondant of Gtobe Articho..
(page rz4). lf using targe artichokes, cut the hearts into quarters. Set aside.
3 When ready to cool<, unwrap the beef and season. Preheat the oven to r8o'C. Gas 4. Use a saut pan that you can put into the oven. (lfyou do not have a

Zog tightty salted butter, cut into sma[[ cubes

sea salt and freshly ground btack

pepper

suitabte pan, put a smatl roasting tin in the oven to heat). 4 Heat the saut6 pan (or a frying pan) untit you can feeI a good heat rising. Adc z tablespoons olive oiI and brown the beef fittet, turning it untiI eventy
caramelised. This should tal<e about 5 minutes.
5 Add

the butter graduatty and attow to foam, then spoon over the meat. Place

the pan in the oven (or transfer the beefto the hot roasting tin and pour over :butter). Roast the fittet for zo minutes, spooning over the butter at least twice that time. Press the fittet with the back of a forl<: it shoutd feet tightty springy. feets quite soft, baste wel[ and give it another 5 minutes in the oven.
6 Transfer the beef to a warmed plate, reserving the pan iuices, and rest in
a

HfrF'S SffieffiHT

w.

warm ptace for 5 minutes white you finish the artichol<es. Heat the remaining otive oil in a frying pan and saut6 the artichol<es untilgotden brown and cris:

clarify butter for many uses, but not

when the dish calls for foaming butter. The mitky sotids (or impurities) in the butter encourage it to foam, so the last fhing you want to do is remove them.

the outside. Season and remove from the heat.

7 Strain

the buttery pan juices from the meat through a fine sieve and reheal

the beef into eight even slices and ptace two on each warmed dinner ptate, adding any juices from carving to the pan juices. Surround the beefwith the
artichol<es and drizzle over the.iuices. Serve with horseradish pomme pu16e

r:lii"i'i".iiirilii";ll:l'i"!i-f,ii:]*i
I strongLy recommend mal<e

Formelrinstenderness,youcannotsurpassagoodritLet:

that you buy from a quality butcher, rather than a supermarket. Flavour is all impo':. : sure the filtet is from an animatthat has hung for a good 3 weeks, preferably Aberdeer

lvleat

leg of lamb with a mushroom and spinach stuffing

'
''ect for a special Sunday lunch and easy to prepore - especially if you get your butcher to bone out the lamb for teed a medium leg boned out flat (rather than tunnel-boned). Use the bones to make stock and reduce to

. :e the

flavour - the basis for a delicious gravy. Serve with potatoes roasted in goose fat and flageolet beans tossed : -.tter and parsley SERVES 6 AS A MAIN D|SH
tamb so that it opens out flat (or get your butcher to do so) and
a

'-:
'::

r leg of lamb, about 2.3-2.51<g

z tablespoons double cream

: :n a board, sl<in-side down. Using

sharp l<nife, cut out any sinews or

and trim away 15og ftesh. Put this through a food processor and whiz

z5og mushrooms, wild or cultivated

(or a mixture of both), trimmed and cleaned 7og butter

'=. Add the cream, teaspoon salt and some pepper and blend briefty ' : r:h. Turn into a bowt, cover and refrigerate, with the boned joint.

'-:
.

mushrooms as finely as possible. Heat the butter in a frying pan and

-= shallot or onion and garlic for about minutes until softened. Add the 3

r sha[[ot, or /, onion, finety chopped

r fat garlic clove, chopped z5og baby Ieaf spinach r tablespoon chopped tarragon
a little otive oil, to drizzle

-s

and fry, stirring, over a high heat untiI softened and browned, about

-.s. Season wetl,

then atlow to coo[.

a

- :"e spinach in boitingwater for r minute, then drain and plunge into

:e-cotd water to refresh. Drain thoroughly, squeeze dry, then chop finety

,,, r:h

the mushrooms and tarragon. The mixture should be quite dry. lf

and

3ooml welt-flavoured reduced lamb

stocl<

:',. \vrap in clean mustin and squeeze out any tiquid. Add the spinach

-s

to the lamb pur6e, mix wetl and checl< the seasoning (see Chef's Tip).

r5omI red wine few rosemary sprigs

sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

'-:r

'

amb flat on a worl<surface and spread the stuffing evenly over the rotl up firmty and tie at intervals with l<itchen string to secure.

lf

,',. sew any open edges together with a trussing needle and thread. Rott ' ;:uffed joint tightty in cting fitm and refrigerate for a couple of hours to
' :-e shaoe.
,: :he oven to r8ooC, Gas 4. Unwrap the meat and weigh to calculate the r : re. Atlow 5o minutes per l<g for medium rare meat and 55 minutes per ;:ium. Add rz minutes for each additionat z5og. Ptace the joint in a

pepper

. : r,

drizzte with a tittle olive oil and sprinl<le with seasoning. Lay a butter

^ :op to prevent over-browning. Roast the lamb for the catculated time

flffiffiF*$ TEF
rastineu
stuffing that contains raw meat to check the seasoning is never a good idea, yet it's important to get this right. I fry off a teaspoonfuI of the stuffing in a liltle oil until just firm, then taste it and adjust the stuffing
seasoning accordingly.

:
-:

,-z

hours, basting every 30 minutes with the meat juices.

'=- the meat to a platter and rest in a warm place for 15 minutes or so. juices into a smat[ saucepan, add the stocl<, wine and rosemary and
a

':'
'
:-

few minutes to reduce down, then strain into a jug. Carve the meat

. thick stices, tipping any luices that seep out into the iug. Serve the
the gravy.

Meat

75

il

tamb shank faggots in lettuce

Lamb

and poached' branched lettuce leaves pressed into bars,wrapped in tnen asparagus and baby leeks' and tiquid fravourings, root vegetables, and steamed parsnip pur6e with roqsted on a creamy main course, best served
DISH SERVES 8 A5 A MAIN

braised shanks are

srowry

to

givevery tender meat, which

is

then

with some of the braising shredded and enriched

An impressive and unusual

otive oit, to frY 4 targe lamb shanl<s

you can feel a strong r Heat a large frying pan untit

r carrot, roughtY choPPeo

1

onion, roughtY choPPeo

teel<, roughtY choPPed

r
:.

lrheadgarlic'
r thYme sPrig

cetery stick, roughtY choPPed or 6 fat garlic ctoves

r baY leaf r rosemarY sPrig

z star anise
4 cardamom Potls

shanks afl over' turning otive oit and brown the vegetables and gartic' oiI in the pan' add the chopped 2 Heat a littte more otive Pour whole spices and 4 olives' to soften' Add the herbs' and saut6 for 5 minutes thin syrup' reduced right down to a in the wine and boit until cast-iron casserote or heavy-baseo vegetabte mixture to a large the Transfer 3 on top' Pour in the tid and ptace the lamb shanl<s saucepan with a tight-fitting for at a very gentte simmer Season' cover and cook simmer' a to bring and stock for 3o minutes' then tender' Leave in the tiquid z/'3hoursuntit the meat is very Strain the tiquid into spoon and coot comptetety' transfer to a dish with a stotted untit
a

heat rising' then add a tittte aside' frequentty' Remove and set

shatlow pan, discarding

then boit rapidty tt't utgttuUes and.flavourings'

8 black otives

wine 3oomt drY white Stock r.5 titres Brown Chicken

(Page zro)

[eaves 18 outer BabY Gem lettuce

(from about 4 tettuce)

ground black sea salt and freshlY pepper

set asloe' reduced to a rich gtaze' about 35oml; Now putt the meat into and snip off any sinews' bones the from meat the 4 Pick you shoutd have arouno and ptace in a bow[; fine shreds with your fingertips the glaze' to the tamb with zooml of rest of tfre otives and add 5oog. Chop the glaze' then chirt. Reserve the remaining Mix wett and check the seasoning, a time' in the lettuce leaves' a few at to snape the faggots' btanch 5 When ready untitwitted' Lift out with a water for about 5 seconds a large pan of boiting Remove' drain and pat dry in a bowl of ice-cold water' stotted spoon and refresh

Hl"[:T::1::;,"

To

steam:

z baY leaves
z thYme sPrigs
1

ba*s but don't press too firmtv. 8 portions. Rou neatry into feaves' overlapping the leaf and tine with 3 btanched Lightty oit a medium tadte the edge' Ptace a lamb the stem ends to overhang tips in the centre and attowing pressing tightty to moutd' over the overhanging leaves batt in the middte and fotd

teaspoon coriander seeds

RepeatwiththeremainingbattsandlettuceleavestomakeS.faggots'.Chittona
down' Ptate, ioin-side to a targe thyme and coriander seeds serve' add the bay leaves' to reacly When 7 steamer (that paper on the base of a bamboo butter a Ptace water' pan of boiting Position on the steamer wrapped tamb batts on top' fits th'e pan) and ptace the ln the meantlme' rz minutes until piping hot' pan, cover and cool( for about on a bed of creamy parsnip gtaze. serve the tamb 'faggots' reheat the remaining gtaze' and drizzted with the pu16e, surrounded with vegetables'

76

Meat

.,:4a.,..
taa.a

'

' t,a,..a -tia::,.

& %u.

blanquette of tamb
A blanquette is a classic technique of cooking meat by poaching in stock until tender, then enriching the broth with an egg

r:

and cream 'liaison'. Traditionally a blanquette has a very thin sauce, but you can thicken it slightly with a small knob

of

beurre manid if you like (see below). Stewing veal is generally used for a blanquette, but lean lamb neck fillet works well and is much easier to find. Serve with plain boiled rice or tagliatelle. SERVES 4 AS A MAIN DISH

6oo9 lamb necl< fillet

3oomI Chicken Stocl< (page zro)

r Trim any excess fat from the lamb, then cut into zcm cubes. The meat wilI have
a

marbling of fat, which helps to l<eep it succulent.

r5oml dry white wine

z Place the lamb in a saucepan, season and cover with cold water. Bring stowty to the boit and sl<im off any scum that rises to the top, with a large metal spoon.
Simmer for ro minutes, sl<imming frequently until there is nothing left to sl<im. Drain the lamb in a colander and rinse in cold water. 3 Return the lamb to the clean pan and add the stocl<, white wine, bouquet garni and carrot dice. Bring to the boit, lower the heat and simmer very gently, uncovered, for about 3o minutes. 4 Meanwhite, immerse the shallots or button onions in a pan of boiting water for
3o seconds

r bouquet garni (bay teaf, thyme

sprig, parsley stall<s)

carrot, cut in small dice

z5og baby shallots or button onions z5og button mushrooms, cleaned

and quartered 4 free-range egg yoll<s

r5oml doubte cream

squeeze of [emon iuice z tablespoons chopped parsley
sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

to loosen the sl<ins, then drain and peel. Add the onions to the lamb

and continue to simmer for about ro minutes. Add the mushrooms and cool< for

another 5 minutes.
5 By now the meat should be nice and tender. Strain the tiguid into a shallow

pepper

pan. Set aside the lamb, onions and mushrooms, discarding the bouquet garni. Simmer the stocl< until reduced by a third.

6 Beat the egg yoll<s and cream together in a smal[ bow[. Remove the pan of
stocl< from the heat and slowty pour a

little on to the yoll<s and cream, whisl<ing

as you do so. Pour this tiquid bacl< into the remaining stocl(. Return the pan to ffi ffi E"# ffi ft H tVAeru fr fr i. used to thicken a sauce, such as a blanquette, if required. lt can be made in advance - in quantity ifyou
like

l'i,

the lowest heat possible and stir slowty with the whisl<, until it starts to thicl<en.
Do not let it boil or it wi[[ curdte. The sauce is ready when it coats the bacl< of
a

spoon thinly (lil<e a thin custard).

7 Return the lamb and vegetabtes to the sauce and reheat very gently,

without

and kept in the fridge to have to

*n:l:u.l.you want to thicken a liquid quicl<ly. Mett 15g butt( , JJii Ll; and cook, stirring, for 3o seconds or so. Whisk into the Liquid in tiny pieces lunl

boiting. Tip into a warmed serving dish. Checl< the seasoning and add a squeeze of lemon juice to taste. Scatter with the chopped parsley and serve.

il,li

il',:li#:::
Fo

ffi

and cool< until thilkened.

ffi;il.,

il,i.i.,".'.1'1",u,.

the tiquid before you add the egg

yolks and cream.

78

Meat

rabbit in pancetta with barley and kidney risotto

"
'eored rabbit is a light, lean and tender meat that is easy to prepare and cook. Traditionally whole rabbits are sold

- :.eir kidneys still attached, which can be chopped and stirred into this country-style barley risotto. lf you buy leg joints

'-:,tt

kidneys) from your butcher or supermarket, use lamb's kidneys instead. SERVES 4 AS A MAIN DlSH

r -g

a smatl sharp l<nife, remove the

thigh bones onty from the [egs. Wrap

4 rabbit tegs (inctuding thighs)

, - :art-boned leg in pancetta

: ;,:

or Parma ham to mal<e neat rolls. Pierce each leg

r5og thinly sliced pancetta or loog

Parma ham

'-'ee places and insert the rosemary sprigs pushing them we[[ into the flesh.

; " 3erate for about an hour to help set the shape.

ihe pear[ barley, carrot, onion, leel<, celery, thyme sprig, bay leaf and stock - a large pan. Bring to the boil, stirring occasionally. Add seasoning and

rz tiny rosemary sprigs

z5og pear[ barley
1

carrot, quartered

- -er, uncovered, for about zo minutes untitthe grains are soft.

Picl<

out the

r onion, quartered r [eek, halved r celery sticl<, halved

r thyme sprig

:::ables and drain the barley, reserving the stock. Set the bartey aside while

- :ook the rabbit and kidneys.

I :'neat the oven to r9ooC, Gas 5. Hatve the l<idneys and snip out the cores, '..- chop into smatl dice. Heat hatf the olive oil in a smatI frying pan and saut6
-..
'.idneys until nicely cotoured and just firm, about 3-4 minutes; do not ,.'cook. Season and remove from the heat. th remaining otive oiI in an ovenproof saut pan and seal the rabbit tegs

r bay leaf r litre Chicl<en Stocl< (page zro)

4 rabbit l<idneys or z lamb's kidneys

* -:at

about 4 tablespoons olive oil

7og butter, in pieces z tablespoons chopped parsley
6 tablespoons Vinaigrette (page zr8) sea salt and freshly ground black

:.tet. Transfer to the oven and roast for about zo minutes, turning the legs ' ','tay through cool<ing. To check that the meat is cooked, insert a thin metal '
.

:,,,'er; it should meet with tittte resistance and the iuices shoutd run clear.

lf

' ;:. return to the oven for an extra 5-ro minutes. Altow to stand in the warm pan - .e you finish the risotto.

pepper 4 sma[[ flat-teaf parstey or thyme sprigs, to garnish

i ;-i the barley into a saucepan with the reserved stocl< and stir over a medium '":: untiI piping hot. Stir in the butter so the pear[ barley grains become glossy.
'':he
heat, add the l<idneys and chopped parstey. Checkthe seasoning.

:l
-:
-

vide the risotto between warmed serving plates. Cut each rabbit leg into 3 or
eces and place on the barley. Place the saut6 pan on the hob and pour in the

algrette. Heat gently, stirring well to incorporate the meat juices, then spoon
or thyme sprigs.

,:'the rabbit. Serve garnished with small parstey

flffi EFtS T$F

keep rl morst.

nurui, is a lean and tender meat that is best protected during roasting ro prevenr rr oecomrng ory.

Wrapping the meat in pancetta or bacon is an effective way to

Meat

79

r:a

1&

To retain its siLl<y texture and delicate flavour, cool< caLf's

as you would a fiLIet steal<, rather than in thin slices which overcool< in mere seconds. A

the Iiver to rest for 5 minutes after cool<ing, to firm up before serving.

calfb tiver with fried polenta and fig vinaigrette

: '',
.iver has a fine, delicate texture that is easily toughened if you cook it in

thin slices - the best way to ruin it in my view

:;'.'topan-frythicker'steaks'whichgetabetter'cuisson'andsoretaintheirsweetsucculencetodeliciouseffect.Ask
' : -;tcher to cut you a thick piece of liver and portion it at home. Crisp fried wedges of polenta are the perfect . *coniment. And to continue the ltalian theme, I make a dressing with crushed fresh figs. Mouth-wateringly

good!

!i

WEs a AS A MAIN DISH

';:.

make the potenta. Put the mitk, water, olive oi[, thyme and r teaspoon salt

6 fresh figs
room I Vinaigrette (page

' : : .arge, deep pan and bring to the boit. Tricl<te in the polenta as you stir : :. ; with a long handled spoon. Always siir in one direction to avoid lumps
-9. The mixture will thicl<en fairty quicl<ty and start to splutter a bit. Don't be

zr8)

4oog calf's liver in one thick stice,

4-5cm thick
flour, to dust

... ::ed to cover the pan as you need to stir the mixture. Cook the potenta for : : ninutes over a low heat, stirring frequentty.

olive oi[, to fry

z5g butter aged balsamic vinegar, to serve
sea salt and freshly ground black

i-ove

from the heat and stir in the butter and Parmesan, then tip the polenta

' : : shallowtray and spread to a depth of about r.5cm. Leave untiI cooI and .. :rout r hour, then cut into wedges. Allow z-3 wedges per serving. (Wrap any
'

:'

r -- -ake the dressing,

ou don't need now in cling film, refrigerate and use within 3 days.)
breal< open

pepper
a

two of the figs and scrape out the flesh into

'' " . :reaking it up with a fork. Graduatty mix in the vinaigrette, then set aside. r - - ihe liver of any tubes or membrane, then cut into 4 even portions. Cut the
.

Polenta: 6oomt mitl<

6oomI water z tablespoons olive oil
1

-: -ing 4 figs in hatf tengthways.

Set aside while you cool< the polenta wedges.

" - -;:

each potenta wedge with seasoned flour. Heat a 5mm depth of olive oiI in

,'3e frying pan. When hot, fry the polenta for about z minutes on each side
3olden brown. Remove and drain on l<itchen paper; l<eep warm. Wipe out

teaspoon thyme leaves

r teaspoon salt z5og polenta grains (not the quicl<variety)

r -.ir

J tablespoons otive oil with the butter in the frying pan. Dust the liver ' w seasoned ftour, then add to the hot pan. Fry for minutes on each side

cool<

zl

3og butter

r*:+-ding
"

on thicl<ness, until the Iiver is browned on the outside, but stitI nicety
To

, '. :1d juicy inside.

:d
--

3og Parmesan cheese, freshly grated

checkwhether it is ready, press the surface with your

:;':ips: if it feets tightty springy it's ready. lf the tiver feels very bouncy, it will
iercooked. Attow to rest for 5 minutes before serving.

" I i - same time, cool< the fig halves. Fry these, cut-side down, in a tightty oited r * - :'alongside the liver if there is room) for about z minutes without turning. I :' ::e the liver on warmed plates and sprinkte with a tittte balsamic vinegar. * , - 3 the fried polenta wedges atongside and top with the hot figs. Pour the

ffi&g_$&ee$fl w$ruffiffi&ffi
A few drops

of balsamic vinegar provide a sharp contrast to rich meat

liver. Always use a brand that has been

dishes, such as meltingly soft calf's aged by the traditionaI method

:":ssing into the pan, stirring to combine with the meat juices, then drizzle

in

, - -: the liver and serve.

wooden casks for at least ro years. Dark in colour, aged balsamic vinegar has a wonderful mellow flavour.

Meat 81

navarin of venison with roasted root vegetables

A navarin is normally

and serve with

uses lean venison which I saute stow-cooked casserole of lamb with potatoes and onions. My version shaltot and raspberry vinegar red selection ofwinter roots, brown butter Brussels sprouts and a beautiful

wine

sauce.

You could

catt

AS A MAIN DlSH it a posh stew. Parsnip crisps are the ideal accompanimenf' SERVES 4

6oo9 loin ofvenison

2 carrots

r First,

the olive oit in a large saucepan' add the shattots Add the and saut6 for about ro minutes untit softened and tightty browned.
mal<e the sauce. Heat

t/z celeriac, about 3oog

thyme,bayteafandgarlic,saut6foraminuteortwo,thenpourinthewineand
to r tablespoon ofthe vinegar. Bring to the boit, then boiI rapidly untiI reduced about roomI of rich gtaze.

r5og baby Brussels sprouts, trimmed

5og butter
6

tabtespoons otive oiI

pepper

z Pour in the siocl<, return to the boit and

to about

cool< over a medium heat for

about

sea salt and freshtY ground blacl<

down zo minutes. Pass through a sieve and return the tiquid to the pan. Boitthis zoomt, sl<imming frequentty to remove any scum. You shoutd have a

Sauce: z tablespoons olive oil 8 smatt or z large shallots, sliced r thyme sPrig
:.

wonderfuI shiny sauce that is thicl< enough to tightty coat the bacl< of a spoon. stir in the remaining raspberry vinegar and checl< the seasoning. set aside.
carrots and celeriac and cut into zcm 3 Cut the venison into 4cm cubes. Pee[ the

dice.Boilthesproutsforjustzminutes,thendrainandplungeintoabowlof
iced cotd water or run them under cold water in a cotander' as the Heat the butter until it begins to foam. watch carefully and as soon

bay leaf

r fat garlic clove, sliced

75cl bottle red wine
z tablespoons rasPberrY vinegar

into butter stops foaming and has turned a tight brown colour, pour the tiquid cup, leaving the solid partictes behind. Set the liquid butter aside' ro minutes, stirring occasionalty, untitiust tender. Season and remove to an ovenproof plate. Keep warm' uncovered, in a low oven'

5Heat3tablespoonsoliveoiIinapanandsaut6thedicedvegetablesforabout

8ooml Brown Chicken Stocl<

(page zro)

To

serve:

place over a medium 6 Wipe out the pan, then add the remaining otive oit and pinl< in high heat. 5aut6 the venison cubes until carametised on a[[ sides, but still

Parsnip Crisps (Page r34)

if the centre, about 7-ro minutes. season wett. The venison chunl<s are ready they feet tightty springy when pressed. Keep warm while you finish the sprouts' toss Reheat the ctarified nut brown butter in a saut6 pan. Add the sprouts and
7 wetl to coat in the butter and heat through'

8 Reheat the sauce. Divide the meat and vegetables between shallow serving
bowls and pour over the sauce. Serve at once, scattered with parsnip crisps.

8z

Meat

homemade pasta
job for two people - one to crank the machine and one to tease the sheet of pasta out ot' the rollers and stop it folding back on itself - though of course it's possible to manage by yourself if there isn't anyone around to help. This basic recipe produces quite a large amount of pasta dough, because I find it easier to make a larger
Rolling homemade pasta is really
a

{-d

quantity than work with a small amount. For tagliatelle, ravioli qnd tortellini, you will need about half of this quantity. You ca
freeze the pasta sheets that you don't need straightaway in batches for later use. lnterleave them with freezer tissue wrap and seal well, or keep well wrapped in the fridge for a few days. ltalian 'oo' pasta flour (doppio zero) is now wideLy available

from delicatessens and good supermarkets. MAKES gooc

55og ltatian 'oo' pasta flour or plain

r To mal<e the pasta, put the ftour, salt, eggs, egg yotl<s and olive oiI into a food
processor and whiz until the mixture comes together to form coarse crumbs. z Tip this into a bowI and gather into a batl with your hands. Turn on to a [ightly

flour
'/4 teaspoon sea salt 4 free-range eggs

floured surface and l<nead we[[ untilthe pasta dough is smooth and soft, but not
sticl<y. Wrap in 3 Tal<e

6 egg yotl<s
z tablespoons olive oil

cling film and [eave to rest for 3o minutes or so.

a piece of dough about the size of a l<iwi fruit; l<eep the rest wetI wrapped

to stop it drying out. Flatten the piece of dough to a rectangle, about 5mm thicl<. With the pasta machine set to its thicl<est setting, feed the dough through two o.
three times. Adjust the setting by one notch and repeat. Continue in this way, narrowing the setting by one notch each time. The dough witt get progressivety

smoother and more etastic. When you reach the thinnest setting, the pasta is
ready to be cut, fitted and shaped as required. Repeat with the remaining dough.

4 For ravioti or tortellini, simply cut out the required shapes from the pasta
sheets. For tagliatetle, altow the sheets to dry for ro minutes before cutting

drape them over a clothes airer or the bacl< of a ctean chair. Meanwhite fit the pasta machine with the tagtiatette cutters. Pass the dough sheet through the machine cutters, l<eeping the noodles separate as they emerge. When the pasta sheet has passed through, tift the noodtes on to a tray, twirting them into a nest
a5 you 00 50.

' : : ;,: :l

il, '

,l,t We

use saffron water to give fresh pasta

an inviting rich colour and subtle flavour. 0ur concentrated saffron essence, or saffron water (page 98)
as we ca[[ it, is ihe secret here. Simpty

add a few drops to the mixture as you whiz it in the processor.

86 Pasta and rice

cannelloni of tuna with ricotta

^

e:!oni are easy to make if you roll the filling in softened pasta sheets rather than stuff dried cannelloni tubes. Here the ; is diced fresh tuna combined with aubergine 'caviar'. I serve the cannelloni topped with a hollandaise lightened with
cheese and gratinded. SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE

:::

. ;':^eat the oven to zoooC, Gas 6. Halve the aubergine lengthways, score the .. - and brush with otive oi[. Lay the garlic slivers atong one cut surface and
,

8 sheets fresh pasta (page 86)

-:,'rich together with the other aubergine hatf. Wrap tightty in foit and bake for

Filling:

nutes or uniiI softened. Coot, then unwrap and scoop out the flesh into a
a

r smatl aubergine
z tabtespoons olive oi[, plus extra to brush

r.:: rrocessor, addingthe gartic. Season and whiz to a pur6e, then tip into
' : ,, : set aSide,

; -.?t 2 tablespoons olive oit in a frying pan, add the shallot and saut6 for about * -utes to soften. Remove from the heat and cool. Meanwhile, cut the tuna
'' : :cm
u
1
'.

r fat garlic clove, thinly sliced r large shallot, finely diced

4oog fresh tuna r tablespoon chopped tarragon r tablespoon chopped basit
sea salt and freshly ground pepper

dice and place in a bowl. Add the cooled shallot and herbs, then bind

'-

ihe aubergine pur6e. Season with satt and pepper to taste.

ready a large bowl of iced water. Bring a large pan of satted water to the and btanch the pasta sheets in two batches, allowing z minutes to soften' to the iced water to cool quicl<[y, then drain again' Tear off large sheets

-:,'e

:
:

;'-cve
"..:s

rg fitm, lay on a board and brush tighttywith oit. Laythe drained pasta

Sauce:

on top and divide the tuna fitting between them, spooning it along one -5 side. Rott each pasta sheet into a tube, enclosing the fitting, then wrap in

r tablespoon wine vinegar

5og butter
4 tablespoons olive

'i :.ing fitm, twisting the ends tightty til<e a cracl<er so they witt be watertight. - ior about 3o minutes.
r ','eanwhile, mal<e the sauce. Boilthe vinegar in a smatl pan until reduced by ' : '. then immediately pour into a tiny dish. Heat the butter gentty untiI metted'

oil

z egg yotl<s

6-8 coriander seeds, crushed

squeeze of lemon juice

'r:

carefulty pour into a jug, [eaving the sediment behind' Mix in the olive oit.

roog ricotta cheese

z tablespoons double cream

-' :he egg yoll<s, crushed coriander and r tablespoon warm water in a heatproof

:,: ,,,. over a pan of simmering water and beat with a balloon whisl< untit

r-z tablespoons freshly

Parmesan cheese

grated

'
r

:<ened and creamy. Remove from the heat.

: :rvly whisk in the butter and oiI mixture, drop by drop to begin with' then in a
r:dy trickle,
[il<e a mayonnaise. Then beat in

the reduced vinegar and lemon

f;"+"{

:e. Finatty beat in the ricotta and tightty whipped cream. Checl< the seasoning. and boiI for

# **':$

"$"{$it

w.

coor< roods

: 3''ng a targe shallow pan of water to the boit, add the canne[[oni

r ninutes untitthey feel firm when pressed. Remove from the water, cool

3-tty and peet off the cting film. - :-eheat the gritt untitvery hot. Ptace the cannelloni, loin-side down, in a [arge
:

wrapped in cling film to hold them in shape. lf you prefer to avoid this terhninrrp herc nlacc the canne[oni join-side down in a greased ovenproof dish, cover with foil and bal<e at r8ooC, Gas 4 for zo minutes. Uncover
and proceed as above.

,:-proof dish and spoon over the sauce.

.

Sprinl<le with the grated Parmesan and

r'

untiI golden and bubbting. Serve at once.

Pasta and

rice 87

tagliatetle of witd mushrooms

Wild mushrooms have distinctive individual flavours that combine beautifully in sauces. They are

favourite

largely interchangeable here, so make your selection according to the seasan. During the summer my Scottish girolles are at their best. Then towards the autumn we get wonderful ceps, trompettes and blewits. t often combine them with Japanese mushrooms, especially shemigi. Or you can use a

mixture of wild mushrooms and cultivated chestnut mushrooms for a cheaper option. Fresh wild mushrooms usually contain grit, so they need to be washed carefully. This is a simple pasta dish, which
you can embellish with a mushroom veloutd for a special occasion. SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE 45og fresh tagtiatelle, preferably homemade (page 86, 1/z quantitY)

r Set the tagtiatetle aside while you prepare the mushrooms.

Picl< over

the witd mushrooms and trim the ends. Stice

25o-3oog selection of wild

mushrooms (such as ceps, girolles,

larger ones if necessary. Soal< for a few minutes in a bowl of

tepid water, swishing with your hands so atl debris sinl<s to the bottom. Lift out the mushrooms and shal<e well, then
pat dry in a large clean tea toweI or l<itchen paper.

btewits, shemigi)
z tablespoons olive oit

r shallot, finety chopped

z59 butter
:.ooml double cream

z Heat the otive oiI in a large frying pan, add the shaltot and
saut6 gently for z minutes until softened. Add the butter and when it has melted and starts to foam, toss in the cleaned mushrooms. Saut6 for about 5 minutes untit they
are softened. Season to taste, then mix in the cream and
cool<

roog wild rocl<et or baby spinach

Ieaves
sea salt and freshty ground blacl<

for a minute or so.

pepper

3 Meanwhite, cool< the pasta in a large pan of boiting satted water for r-z minutes untitjust al dente. Drain and toss

To

serve:

with the mushrooms, then add the rocl<et or spinach and

heat untit the leaves witt. Checl< the seasoning.

Mushroom Vetout6 (see right,

optiona[) about 5og Parmesan cheese, finelY pared into shavings

4 Divide the mushroom pasta between warmed deep ptates or large shattow bowls and pour over the velout6 if required. Serve topped with the Parmesan shavings.

i-i.',i i":f:'l;i'.::,i;.,'.,'ii;i..,:, wiromushroomtrimmingsarefutl offtavour,sodon'twastethem'Spreadthemon a plate lined with l<itchen paper and place in the airing cupboard for a day or untildry and crisp. 0r, microwave on a low settingfor 5 minutes orso, until crisp. Store in a bagfor up to l month.

88

Pasta and rice

Soal< 5og

dried mushrooms (morels, ceps, porcini or dried trimmings) in zoomt boiling

:" for about ro minutes, then lift out and chop. Strain the liquor through a fine sieve and reserve. Gently saut6 r finety cnoppeo ,.Lot in z tablespoons olive oil untilsoftened but not coloured. Add the mushrooms and r5omLdry white wine. Simmer until .-.ced by half, then pour in the mushroom Iiquor and 3ooml Brown Chicken Stock (page zro). Bring to the boiL and simmer until
-

-ced by half again. Finally, stir in roomI doubLe cream, return to a simmer and rgh a sieve into a jug, pressing with the bacl< of a tadLe. Reheat to serve.

cool<

for about another 5 minutes. Strain the sauce

t*

"ry

,,:

Pasta and

rice 89

i:r:..':.=:. rypicaLty, pasta is tossed with sage leaves that have been fried in butter untitfrazzled and crisp. My way of in a sage-infused, cream-enriched beurre noisette with shredded fresh sage Leaves added at the last moment gives an aLtogether different result. None of the fragrance or fresh flavour of the saqe is lost.
serving

i.-::

pasta

pumpl<in and amaretti ravioli

lt is one that she acquired from her ltalian grandmother. pumpkin a ravioli filling is an ltalian custom - it adds a light texture and a "9 ': :f sweet almond flavour. I like to serve the ravioli tossed in a sage-infused beurre noisette with shreds of fresh sage, ':t' ond shavings of Parmesan. You will need to cook the pumpkin o day in advance. If possible, track down one of the
comes from Angela Harnett at The Connaught.

: 'tvioli recipe
a small

handful of crushed amoretti to

'
",

t'skinned French variety, which has

full flavour and excellent creamy texture. SERVES 6-8 AS A MAIN

COU RSE

: :'eheat the oven to r8ooC,

Gas 4. Deseed, peel and chop the pumpl<in. Mix with

r quantity homemade saffron pasta

dough (page 86)

. ':rlespoons otive oiI and ptace on a large sheet of foit. Season and draw the

Jp over the pumpl<in. Ptace the foiI parcel on a bal<ing tray and bal<e for up to

r egg yolk, beaten with

cold water

teaspoon

-:rr

until the flesh is soft. Coo[ stightty, then whiz in a food processor until
Cool, then refrigerate

-:oth. Spoon into a large sieve placed over a bowt. : .:'right to allow excess Iiquid to drain away.

Filling ond to serve:

r.5l<g wedge fresh pumpl<in
6

: --e

next day, tip the drained pumpkin into a bowt. Finely grate hatf of the

::'Tesan. Saut the shattots in the remaining otive oil for minutes to soften, 5

tablespoons olive oil

-:r

mix into the pumpl<in flesh togeiher with the breadcrumbs, grated

r5og Parmesan cheese

z large shallots, chopped
:.oog fresh

;:-'nesan and seasoning. Crush three ofthe biscuits and mixthese in too. Set
:: Jt-

white breadcrumbs

1 -.rt the pasta into 8 pieces and rotI into balls; l<eep wrapped untiI ready to ro[[.

4 amaretti biscuits sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

-:

'rg a pasta machine, roll each pasta batl into a long sheet, about

8ox r3cm

;:e

Homemade Pasta, page 86). Repeat with the rest and l<eep covered with a

pepper

:an tea towe[.

r
,
r

Shape the ravioti (see overteaf) and ptace on a tray tined with a ctean tea towet.

Sage beurre noisette: 6 sage sprigs, plus stail<s

-'tl

in the refrigerator, uncovered, untiI ready to serve. Pare the remaining piece

j Parmesan into fine shavings. Crush the last ofthe amaretti and set aside.

759 unsalted butter, in pieces z tablespoons double cream

-o make the sage beurre noisette, strip the leaves from the sage statl<s and set 5
rs de. Put the unsatted butter in a saucepan with the sage stall<s and melt slowly,

'-en increase the heat and cool< untitthe moment the butter starts to turn brown.
-rnediatety tal<e off the heat and leave to stand for r minute. SlowLy strain the

:,tter through a fine sieve into

'-e

a clean pan, leaving

the sediment behind. Discard

sage stalks. Shred the sage leaves as finety as you can. Return the beurre
tal<e

-risette to a low heat and stir in the cream. then ;:redded sage leaves.

offthe heat and add the

5 Meanwhile, bring a large pan of tightly salted water to the boit, add the ravioti

:rd :rd :rd

cook for z minutes. Drain and return to the pan. Add the sage beurre noisette seasoning, and toss gently to mix.

z Serve in warmed

shallow bowts, scaitered with the last of the crushed amaretti

Parmesan shavings.

Pasta and

rice

91

il

...,.,,:..::
:,rt.:i,,:..:l:,.,

Pasta and

rice 93

smol(ed haddocl< and asparagus open ravioti

Fresh pasta rounds are layered with a light, creamy sauce of smoked haddock and asparogus tips, then

served topped with lightly poached quail's eggs, for a new take on lasagne. Serve simply as an elegant lunch, or make a delicate asparagus veloutd with the trimmings and spoon around the pasta ensemble for a special occasion. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR LIcHT MEAL

Using a 7-8cm plain cutter, cut out rz rounds from the pasta sheets, then cover and set aside untiI ready to cool<.

about zz5g fresh pasta sheets, preferably homemade (page 86, % quantity) Filling:

z Poach the smol<ed haddocl< fitlet in the mitl< for about 5-7 minutes untit the ftesh is just beginning to flal<e.
Remove the fish from the mill< and leave untiI cooI enough

to handle, then sl<in and flal<e the flesh.

3 Cut the stall<s from the asparagus spears, leaving about rocm tips. Reserve the asparagus stall<s for the vetout6.
Btanch the

r large Finnan or undyed smoked

haddock fi[[et, about 4oog

5ooml mill<
3oog thin asparagus spears

tips in salted water for r-z minutes untiI just

tender, then drain and plunge into a bowl of ice cold water

zoog crdme fraiche r tablespoon chopped chives z5g butter, melted

to refresh. 4 Put the crdme fraiche into a small pan, heat gently, then
add the ftal<ed haddocl<, asparagus tips and chives, and heat through. Checl< the seasoning.
5 Meanwhile, cool< the pasta in a pan of boiling water for

rz quaill eggs (optionat)

sea salt and freshly ground black

pepper

r-z minutes untit a/ dente,then drain and toss with

in a smatl pan of boiling water for

the
To

melted butter. At the same time, if using quai['s eggs, cool<

serve:

r-rf

minutes until
a

Asparagus Velout6 (see right,

tightly cool<ed. Drain and shetl, then careful[y coat with tittte of the creamy sauce base.
6 To assemble, place a round of pasta 0n each warmed ptate. Add a layer ofthe asparagus and haddocl< sauce,

optionat)

then another pasta round. Repeat these layers, then top with the quail's eggs and spoon over a littte more sauce.
Serve immediatety, with asparagus velout6 if you [il<e.

PasIa and rice

t"T.1":'r""".r'*i"J;*ilf-*ilT$:Cllopthereservedasparagusstalksfinelyandsaut6withrfinelychoppedlargesha[[otin
z tablespoons olive oil for about 5 minutes until softened. Add a handful baby spinach leaves and the chopped leaves from a sprig of tarragon. Cook untilwilted, then pour in 3ooml Fish Stock (page zo9). Bring to the boi[, lower the heat and simmer for to minutes. Whiz in a blender or food processor, then pass through a sieve, rubbing with the back of a [adle. Return the sauce to the pan and stir

in

tablespoons double cream, Reheat gently to serve.

Pasta and

rice

95

96

Pasta and rice

spatzle
,
':
'

s the Germon answer to pasta,

but it's easier to prepare. You simply make a thick eggy batter, rub it through

slotted

or colander directly into a pan of boiling water and the batter sets instantly into soft doughy squiggles. Once they are

.ed and drained, I fry the spatzle in beurre noisette so they puff up, become crispy and turn golden brown. Serve os an - npaniment to rich meat ond game stews, or with a light tomato sauce and freshly grated Parmesan for a light meal.

siRVES 4-6 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT OR LIGHT MEAt

S i1

the flour and salt together into a large bow[. Gradualty beat in the eggs,

z5og plain ftour or'oo' pasta flour r teaspoon fine sea salt
4 medium eggs, beaten about 3 tablespoons cold water

the water, untilyou have a batter with a thicl< pouring consistency. lf '::essary, add a tittte extra water. Attow to rest for z hours. In the meantime,

-:r

-:ke

the beurre noisette (see below).

r ,Vhen ready to cook,

bring a large pan of water to the boit. Have ready a [arge

roog Beurre Noisette (see below) freshly grated nutmeg, to taste

sea satt and freshly ground black

: -.',vl of iced water. Ptace a spatzte plate or colander over the pan of boiling water.

I
:

/ou wi[[ need to cool< the spatzte in batches. Ladle some runny dough on to the
ate and immediately rub through, using a dough scraper or the bacl< of the

pepper

:d le. As soon as the dough is through, remove the ptate. When they are just

finely chopped herbs (parsley, basil

or chervil), to serve

::oked, the spatzte wi[[ rise to the surface. Allow them

few more seconds, then

out with a slotted spoon into the bowl of iced water. Repeat in batches until

:^e dough is used up. Drain and dry on kitchen paper.

4 Fry the spatzle in batches. Heat a quarter ofthe beurre noisette in a large frying

:an, add hatf the spatzle and fry untit tightty browned. Add another quarter of

:re butter and continue to fry until the spatzte are puffed up and crispy. Season
generousty with satt, pepper and nutmeg to taste. Drain on l<itchen paper and (eep warm while you fry the rest, Serve hot, sprinl<ted with chopped herbs.

Silg-iWSjfl. ru#$Sf;TTfr Heat rz5g unsatted butter slowly in a saucepan, then increase the heat and cook until the moment it starts to turn brown. lmmediatety take off the heat and Leave to stand for r minute. Then slowly pour the golden brown butter into a heatproof bowl, leaving the sediment behind.

Pasta and

rice 97

....:,,,r*&'**!&,is*}6;@&l&&d$&*li|*8li@t*!d*:*;.

;,,.

;***u

my saffron shettfish risotto

preparing a classic, creamy risotto by the traditional method can take up to 20 minutes with constant attention, and this isn't patience in the restaurant, neither need you a dish you can prepare ahead and reheat successfutly. We don't test our clients' lt halves the keep your guests waiting at home if you adopt my risotto technique (described below and illustrated overleaf). grains are the because cooking time. Of the different varieties of risotto rice available, my personal favourite is Carnaroli plump and remain firm. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR LIGHT MEAL zoog risotto rice (Carnaroli, Arborio
or Viatone Nano)

r Bring

a large pan of satted water to the boit. Add the rice and btanch the grains

zo langoustine taits, or 2oog raw

for 5 minutes, then drain and spread out on a tray. Cover and set aside until ready to cool<, or chitt if you are severat hours ahead of serving'

tiger prawns (heads removed)

roog podded fresh baby broad beans about 5ooml Chicl<en Stocl< (Page zto) or Fish Stocl< (page zo9)
3

z Prepare the langoustines (see page zo), or if using prawns, peeI and remove
the darl< intestinaI thread. set the peeled langoustine tails or prawns aside. drain and 3 Btanch the baby broad beans in boiting water for z-3 minutes, then
stip the beans out oftheir sl<ins. Season and set aside'

tablespoons olive oil

r large or 3 smaller shallots, finely

chopped
4 tablespoons dry white wine

4 Bring the stocl< to a simmer in a pan. Meanwhile, heat the otive oiI in a [arger pan and saut6 the shattot for 3 minutes until softened, then stir in the rice. cool< for about z minutes, stirring frequently. Add the wine and reduce right down.
is almost all 5 Now add one third of the stocl< and stir frequentty untitthe stocl< absorbed. Add another third of the stocl<, and stir untiI absorbed. Add hatf of the remaining stocl<, then add the broad beans and stir gentty. once this stock is absorbed, checl< the rice grains. lf they are stitt a tittte chaIl<y, then add more

5og butter, chilted and cubed 1 teaspoon saffron water (see below)

r tabtespoon finety chopped chervil r tablespoon finety chopped chives

z tablespoons freshly grated

stock. (This stage only tal<es around ro minutes.) 6 In the meantime, heat hatf the butter in a frying pan untiI it starts to foam. Add the [angoustine taits or prawns and stir-fry untit bright pinl< and firm, about
3 minutes. Season and set aside. dente (cool<ed, but retaining a 7 When the risotto is creamy and the rice is a/

Parmesan cheese
sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

pepper Parmesan cheese shavings, to serve

bite), stir in the saffron water, foItowed by the herbs and Parmesan. Finalty, stir ir the remaining butter and checl< the seasoning' 8 Divide the risotto between warmed bowls. Arrange the langoustines or tiger Drawns on top and scatter with Parmesan shavings. Serve immediately'

?it-iiir; .#,r.:+'i';: ii: we buy spanish saffron and make a concentrated essence by crushing saffron strands into a little boiling water. The infused 'saffron water'gives risottos and pasta dishes an exotic flavour and rich colour. To make this, mix 1 teaspoon of saffron strands with 3-4 tabtespoons boiling water, then coot. I(eep
giji;-}if-'i'
in a jar in the fridge for up to 3 days, or freeze as tiny ice cubes, and use as required.

B rasta

and rice

green herb risotto with sautded scallops

Scallops have o delicious sweet, creamy flavour that suits different flavourings, from oriental and spicy to rich red wines. Sauted scallops are delicious served simply with a green salad, but I also Iike to serve them with a freshly cooked herb risotto' Full-bodied Barolo, one of the great wines of ttaly, is reduced down with port to make a rich glaze for the scallops.
SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR z AS A MAIN D|SH

z5omI Barolo wine z5oml ruby port 6ooml Chicl<en Stocl< (page zro) or
Fish Stocl< (page zo9)

First, mal<e your reduction. pourthe Baroto and port into a saucepan and bring to the boit. Bubble untiI reduced to about 4 tabtespoons, to make a syrupy graze

Set aside to cool.

about 4 tablespoons otive oit r shallot, finety chopped zoog risotto rice (Carnaroli, Arborio
or Vialone Nano) 4 tablespoons dry white wine

z To mal<e the risotto, bring the stocl< to a simmer in a saucepan. Meanwhite, heat z tablespoons olive oil in a deep saucepan and saut6 the shattot forabout
5 minutes untiI softened. Add the rice and cook for z minutes until the grains are opaque. Pour in the white wine and cool< until reduced right down. 3 Add a quarter of the simmering stock and cool<, stirring untit it is att absorbed.

6 l<ing scallops, cleaned (see page r9)

Add the remaining stocl<, a tadtefut at a time, mar<ing sure each addition is absorbed before adding another. This shoutd tal<e about r5 minutes, by which

large l<nob of butter r tablespoon chopped tarragon

time the rice will be tender but stiil have a good bite. you may not need to add all of the stocl<. Season with satt and pepper to taste.
4 when the risotto is almost cooked, heat a heavy-based frying pan or ridged griddte until you feeI a good heat rising. Add a thin fitm of otive oit, then place the scaItops in the pan, in a circle. Cool< for t/zminutes,then turn (in the same

r tablespoon chopped basit

r tablespoon chopped chives
sea salt and freshly ground blacl< pepper

extra chopped herbs, to serve

orderyou placed them in the pan to ensure even cool<ing). cookthe othersiae for a minute orso, until gotden. press the scailops with the bacl< of a forl<: if rney
feet slightty springy they are ready. Remove to a warmed ptate and allow to rest

white you finish the risotto. the butter and chopped herbs into the risotto. warm the red wine and oorr gtaze. sllce each scallop in half horizontatty. spoon the risotto into shatlow bowls, arrange the scallops on top and tricl<te over the gtaze. Drizzle with a little olive oiI and scatter with extra chopped herbs. Serve immediatetv.
5

stir

1O2 Pasta and rice

whote spice basmati pitaff

an easy pilaff, which is simpty left to cook in the oven. The whole spices can be removed before serving if you like, -g the rice white and gtistening but olso fragrant and delicious. Alternatively, you can omit the spices and flavour the simolv with herbs and lemon zest. use best qualitv basmati rice. A round cast-iran casserole is the ideal cooking pot; a

tg tin is not suitqble. :

SERVES

4-6 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT z5og basmati rice

75g butter

-se the rice (see betow). Preheat the oven to r8ooC, Gas 4, Mal<e a cartouche
a circle of greaseproof

' : a medium round casserote dish: cut

stightty larger

,^ the dish and snip a tiny hole in the centre to mal<e a steam vent'

r large onion, finety chopped r large thyme sprig r bay leaf

z cinnamon sticl<s
6 cardamom pods, sptit open z star anise (optionat) z cloves

','eLt

two thirds of the butter in the ftameproof casserote dish and saut6 the

rn for about 5 minutes until softened. Add the rice and stir wel[, then add the

.'f

s, whole spices and lemon or orange zest. Cool< for a minute or two.

; i'ing
:

the stocl( to the boit, using the [arger volume if you prefer a more tender
stocl< into the rice along with the satt and pepper to taste. Press on

':in. Mix the

cartouche, turning the edges up and pressing them to the side ofthe pan for

, -eat fit. Mal<e sure the vent is visible. There is no need to cover with a tid'

finety pared zest of r lemon or

orange, in pieces

- 3al<e in the oven for about z5 minutes. Remove from the oven, allow to stand 'r: 5 minutes, and then remove the cartouche. Forl< through the remaining butter
.

^tit the rice grains are ftuffy and separate, removing the whole spices before
erving if you prefer.

5oo-5oomI Chicl<en Stocl< (page zro) or water

1

teaspoon sea salt

freshly ground blacl< pepper

i:1,,-1::iilli

.':,,

.1;:;,i.l:.

rnisfragrant

rice is best washed to remove excess starch and lighten the grain. Put the rice into a [arge bowt, haLf-fill with cold running

water and swish the rice grains with your fingers. Tip out the water {eaving the wet grains behind. Repeat twice more untiI the water runs clear, then drain the rice in a
sieve. Set aside.

Pasta and

rice

1O3

watercress and Potato souP

This is one

of

you make it. those invaluable recipes that can be buitt on and taken to new heights each time

At its simplest'

Or, you can it is a fresh tasting, velvety smooth soup, that's delicious served hot, topped with a dollop of crEme fraiche. impart and it cool you keep like - to flavour as serve it chilled as a refreshing summer soup, infused with olive oil ice cubes if with a spoonful of caviar they slowly melt. For a special occasion, float a poached egg in the centre of each serving and top

(as iltustrated)

you break the softly set egg into the soup as you eat it. Or if you prefer, simply garnish each portion with a

ooached ovsfer. SERVES z AS A STARTER

r titre Vegetable Nage (Page zr:.)

1

For the stocl<, bring the vegetabte nage

to the boit, sprinkle in the boui[[on

teaspoon vegetable bouitlon

oowder and stir until dissolved.

powoer
z tablespoons olive oil

z Heat the otive oit in a large saucepan and gentty saut6 the shallot and potatoes for 5-7 minutes until softened. Do not allow them to colour.
in the 3 Pour in the vegetable stocl< and bring to a rotling boit, then drop pan from the hea: watercress and spinach. As soon as the leaves witt, remove the

r large shallot, finely choPPed

2oog waxy potatoes (such as

Charlotte), peeted and finetY

chopped z5og watercress, welI washed

and transfer the leaves and potato to a food processor, using a stotted spoon; reserve the [iquor.
bacl< graduatty. This is best 4 whiz the mixture untiI smooth, adding the liquor done in stages to ensure a very smooth texture. chitt untit required (untess you

smal[ handful of baby spinach leaves

sea salt and freshly ground bacl<

are serving the soup hot and straightaway).

pepper

serve hot, reheat the soup (if necessary). For a simpte finish, tadte into warmed bowls and top with a dottop of crdme fraiche. For a more etaborate
5 To

To

serve:

finish, stide a poached egg into each portion and top with a spoonfutof caviar. Alternatively, float a poached oyster on each serving.
6 To serve chitted, divide the soup between chitted bowts, drizzle with a

either z tablespoons crEme fraiche, tightty whipped

or 4 medium poached eggs (see page r4o) and z5g can caviar or 4 poached oysters

little

otive oit and add a few olive oiI ice cubes to each serving if you til<e'

plus olive oi[, to drizzle

gffif#.fl;ffitrp $iffi #t$ffiffi'%

use 5oomtvegetabre Nage

(page 211). Pour three quarters into ice cube trays, to fi[[ about zo cavities. Freeze until sotid around the edges, but stitl partially tiquid in the centre. Using the tip ofa small teaspoon, hotlow out

the centre of each cube and pour in about 1 teaspoon olive oil. Carefully pour in a little more stock to cover and freeze until solid. The oit should be trapped inside each ice cube, like a bubble' Use straight from the freezer.

to6

Vegetabtes

.::!r

ala

: l:i

.;a.ii '

.a::t:,:t::!..'

lf i am serving this soup warm topped with p0ached eggs, I find ii Iess oi a hassLe to prepare them in advance. Follow the instructions fcr poaching eggs on page 14o. When ready to serve. simp[1i piace a poachecl egg in eacfr portion the heat ofthe co,p wiLr be suftic,cni ic wd'* r-e oqe- ' o 9".

asparagus soup with truffle cream

Make this soup in the spring when homegrown asparagus is in season and available at
You
a

good price.

don't need to seek out young, tender spears -

ift

the flavour you need, not the texture. You will

achieve a good result with a combination of stalks and trimmings, so don't discard the woody ends and

peelings ifyou?e preparing asporagus to serve as a vegetable

- use them

here. Adding a couple

of

handfuls of tender spinach leaves helps to boost the natural asparagus colour without detracting from
the flavour. SERVES + AS A STARTER
rl<g green asparagus (inctuding

r Chop the asparagus into sma[[ even-sized pieces. Heat

the butter in a large saucepan and, when it starts to sizzte,
add the onion and gartic. 5aut6 gentty for about ro minutes

trimmings if avaitabte)
75g butter

r onion, chopped r fat garlic clove, chopped

75omI Chicken Stocl< (page zro) or Vegetable Nage (page zu)

until softened but not coloured. Add the asparagus pieces

and saut6 for a further 5-ro minutes untiI softened.

z Meanwhile, bring the chicl<en stocl< or vegetabte nage to the boit in another pan. 3 Pour the hot stocl< over the asparagus, season to taste and simmer for 3 minutes. Then stir in the spinach and
cook briefty, untitjust wilted. lmmediately remove from the heat and strain the stock, reserving the vegetabtes.

roog baby leaf spinach

sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

pepper

To

serve:

r5omI double cream

4 Pur6e the vegetables in a btender or food processor, graduatty adding the stocl< bacl< until you have a creamy [iquid. Pass the soup through a sieve into a ctean pan (or
bowt if you are not serving straightaway, see below). Rub

'l
2

teaspoon truffle oil

teaspoons finely chopped chives

the putp in the sieve wiih the back of a ladle to extract as

much ftavour as possibte.
5 To serve, tightty

whip the cream with the truffle oiI and

seasoning untit softty peaking. Reheat the soup gently un:

almost at a simmer, but do not boiI or you wi[[ destroy the

amazing colour and flavour. Serve in warmed bowts toppec

with dollops of truffle cream and chopped chives.

f,ffi ffiE:-S Sffitrffiffi"$" In the restaurant

we prepare this soup ahead, as you probably

will if you're entertaining. The trick is to capture the freshness and colour of the asparagus. To achieve this, we cool the pur6ed soup as quickty as possibLe. by pouring it straight ftom the blender into a bowl that is hetd in a larger bowl containing plenty ofice cubes and a tittle water. When the soup is cold, remove from the bowt of ice, cover and chill untit required

roB

Vegetables

my roasted tomato soup

..

perlative fresh tomato soup is one of the hallmarks of a good cook. My secret is to first roast the

:ioes, together with onions and herbs. Flavourful tomatoes are, of course, essential.

To

enhance

.
:

lovour I add smoked sun-dried cherry tomatoes with a hickory flavour. If you can't find these, stitute snipped soft sun-dried tomatoes and a dash of borbecue sauce. (lllustrated overleaf)

taRVES a AS A STARTER

: )'eheat the

oven to zzooC, Gas 7. Pour the olive oiI into a

4 tablespoons olive

oil

': asting tin and heat in the oven until atmost smol<ing.
:refu[[y tip in the tomatoes, onion rings and garlic, then
'-rss to coat in the oil. Scatter over the thyme sprigs,

rl<g plum tomatoes, halved

:.

onion, thinty sliced

z fat garlic cloves, halved

.rrinl<le with sugar and season generously with satt and :epper. Roast in the oven for zo-25 minutes until nicety
:aramelised, stirring once or twice and adding the basit :owards the end of cool<ing.
z Tip

small handfuI of thyme sprigs

1

teaspoon caster sugar

smal[ handfuI of basil sprigs

r titre Chicl<en Stock (page zro) or

a

the roasted tomatoes and flavourings into

Vegetable Nage (page zm)

3 smol<ed sun-dried cherry tomatoes

saucepan, discarding any woody thyme stail<s. Bring the stock to the boit in another pan, then pour over the

in oi[, drained (or z semi-soft sun-

iomatoes. Bring to the boit, add the smoked tomatoes (or

semi-soft sun-dried tomatoes plus barbecue sauce) and
cool< for 5 minutes.

dried tomatoes and r tablespoon

barbecue sauce)
sea salt and freshly ground black

3 Strain the stocl<, reserving the tomato mixture. Tip the

pepper

tomatoes into a blender or food processor and whiz,

graduatty adding the stocl< bacl< in, untiI smooth and
creamy. Pass the soup through a sieve into a ctean pan or
To

serve:

z tablesooons olive oil

bowt, rubbing with the back of a ladle. Taste and adiust the seasoning.

2oo-3oog baby cherry tomatoes on

the vine

4 For the garnish, heat the olive oiI in a frying pan. Snip the
vine tomatoes into four clusters and frv them on the vine for about a minute.
5 Reheat the soup if necessary, but it's best served warm

small basil leaves

rather than piping hot. Pour into warmed bowls and top

with the pan-roasted vine tomatoes. Drizzle the pan luices

around the tomatoes and scatter with basit leaves.

Vegetabtes 709

pan-roasted pumpl<in satad with ricotta and cro0tons

pumpkins are in season during the autumn and, of course, they are everywhere around Hallowe'en. Punpkin flesh has a delectable sweet, creamy flavour that tends itself beautifully to tasty soups, fillings for ravioli (see page 9t), and pureds to
accompany rich meats and game. Chopped and pan-roasted, it forms the basis of a fabulous starter salad. I prefer the brown-skinned ridged pumpkins - popular in France and the West lndies. These are often sold here in thick wedges, but you small round 'jack-o-lantern' pumpkin if you like. Pumpkin oil is available from healthfood shops. Dark golden in colour with a worm nutty aroma, it makes a tasty addition to salad dressings and is ideal for trickling over warm vegetables.

can

use a

SERVES4ASASTARTER Peel the pumpl<in: the easiest way to do this is to cut it into wedges first, with

r small, ripe pumpkin, or about rl<g unpeeted weight

heavy-btaded l<nife. Then scoop out the seeds and stringy membrane and peeI

about r5og mixed sharp salad [eaves,

such as fris6e and wild rocl<et

offthe sl<in, using

short, sharp knife' Chop the flesh into rcm cubes and season

with salt and pepper.

2 Separate the fris6e leaves, then tear into sma[[er pieces. Wash the fris6e and

4-5 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra

to brush
5og butter
1/z

rocket, dry well and ptace in a large bowl'

small ciabatta or baguette

3 Heat the otive oit in a targe frying pan, add the pumpl<in cubes and saut6 for about 5 minutes. Add the butter and cool<, shaking the pan constantly, for a further 3-4 minutes until the pumpl<in cubes are nicely caramelised and softened. Remove and drain on l<itchen paper; attow to coot stightty. 4 Meanwhile, stice the ciabatta or baguette thinty and brush with olive oil. Lightty toast on both sides untiI crisp.
5 Lightty dress the salad leaves with the vinaigrette. Add the warm pumpkin cubes and pumpl<in seeds, and toss gentty to mix, seasoning to taste. Divide between serving ptates. Spread the ciabatta toasts with the ricotta, season anc ptace atongside the satad. Drizzte the balsamic vinegar and pumpkin oil over, ascatter with Parmesan shavings to serve.
-

4 tablespoons Vinaigrette (page zt8) 4 tablespoons pumpkin seeds,

toasted 3-5 tablespoons ricotta cheese z tablespoons balsamic vinegar r tablespoon pumpl<in oil
sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

pepper

about z59 Parmesan cheese, finelY

pared into shavings, to serve

172

Vegetabtes

'&.

s il

ffi

,&
%,

.:tt

'''a &t

st

ror optirum flavour it's important to use a rea[[y ripe pumpkin here - bright golden flesh indicates that the vegetable is pumpkin' ripe and readv to cool(. Roasting in the pan or oven gives a firmer texture and more pronounced flavour than boiling
:.{

fl}:tS

-il"8F3

F
F
B.

&.

3 e
E

a z e

herb gnocchi with tomato satsa

dish. Rather than boil and mash potatoes in the usual way for gnocchi, I bake them for a fuller flavour and fluffier texture, then mash. Sautdeing the gnocchi in oil and butter before serving crisps the surface and gives them a delicious fLavour. SERVES z AS A MAIN COURSE, 4 AS A LIGHT MEAL OR STARTER
This recipe is all about

getting extra flavour into

a simple

z large bal<ing potatoes, about

Preheat the oven to r8ooC, Gas 4. Scrub the potatoes, but don't score or slit
a

4oog each
16o9 ptain flour
1

them. Bal<e for about tt/ahours untiI soft in the centre when pierced with
sl<ewer. Set aside to cool for

ro minutes, then peel off the sl<ins. Mash the potato

teaspoon fine sea salt

ftesh in a bowl or press through a potato ricer, then teave to cool comptetety. z When the mash is coo[, mix in the flour and salt until evenly incorporated, then add the herbs, Gradually worl< in the beaten egg untityou have a smooth, firm dough

r tablespoon chopped basit r tablespoon chopped parsley

r [arge free-range egg, beaten

4 tablespoons olive oi[, plus extra to

you may not need to add att of it.

drizzle
5og butter
Tomoto solsa:
6

3 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boit. Have ready a [arge bowl of iced water. Divide the dough into 8 balts, then rotl each out on a tightty ftoured
surface to a [ong, narrow sausage, about 3ocm [ong, and flatten very stightty to
mal<e an oval shape. Cut

the rotts, stightty on the diagonal, into 3cm [engths,

using the bacl< of a table l<nife or thicl< cool<'s l<nife. 4 Cool< the gnocchi in batches. Add about a quarter of them to the boiling water and cool< f or z-3 minutes, untiI they rise to the surface. Lift out with a stottec spoon and ptace in the bowl of iced water. Leave for a minute or so, then drain

vine-ripened ptum tomatoes

r sma[[ red onion, finety chopped

z spring onions, finely sticed

iuice of r Iime r tablespoon sesame oil

generous dash of Tabasco

wetl and pat dry with l(itchen paper. Repeat to cool< the remaining gnocchi,
atways returning the water to a rotting boiI in between,
5 When all

the gnocchi are cool<ed and cooled, combine them in a bowl. DrizzLe

r tablespoon finety chopped basit r tablespoon finety chopped coriander

a
,4

with a tittte olive oitto l<eep them separate, then cover with cting fitm and chi.. until required.
6 To mal<e the satsa, dip the tomatoes in boiting water for 3o seconds or so to loosen the sl<ins, then into cold waterto refresh;drain and peel awaythe sl<ins. Quarter, core and deseed the tomatoes. Finely chop the ftesh and place in a bo,'

sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

pepper

:::

with the other salsa ingredients. Toss to mix and season wett, then spoon into
serving dish.
7

t, 5 n
E

When ready to serve, heat z tablespoons olive oiI and hatf the butter in a larg.

i$'$ffiff-S SffiffffiffiT cuttng

the dough with the thicker edge of a

frying pan untit hot. Saut6 the gnocchi, in batches, for 3-4 minutes untit goldebrown and crispy on both sides. Drain on l<itchen paper and keep warm, uncovered in a low oven, white you saut6 the rest of the gnocchi, using the remaining oil and butter as needed. Serve with the tomato salsa.

x
.: =

knife has the effect of blunting the ends and gives the gnocchi their characteristic pinched edges. Cool< the gnocchi as soon as you have cut them, so they don't dry out.

t
H
F

11 I

\/aoot2hlo<

torte of fietd mushrooms

-ese impressive tortes are a vegetarian version of a popular starter on the menu at Cloridges- You will need to buy tz large - lling mushrooms portobello mushrooms are ideal ond widely avoilable. Served with a leafy salad, this is an ideal main

Lrse

if you are entertaining vegetarians. SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE

r First, mal<e the pancal<e batter. whiz the ftour, salt, egg and milk in a btender or ,:od processor untiI smooth. Pour into a jug and leave to rest in the fridge.
z preheat the oven to rgooc, Gas 5. To prepare the large mushrooms, wipe ctean (save for the ,,, ith a damp cloth, but don't wash or peel them. cut off the stall<s

rz large flat mushrooms, at least 8cm

diameter
6o9 butter, melted

olive oi[, for frying

5oog Puff Pastry (page r9o), or ready-made puff

:uxelle if you til<e). Brush the tops with the metted butter and place, cap-side up, .r roasting tin. season with satt and pepper and bal<e for ro minutes. Leave to a :oot in the tin, then drain off any iuices and chitt. mushrooms as finely as 3 Meanwhite, prepare the mushroom duxette. chop the
or by putsing in a food processor. Heat the butter and oiI in a a high heat 'rying pan untiI reatty hot, then add the mushrooms and stir-fry over lntiI softened and cool<ed. season to taste, and add the tarragon and sherry or

r egg yolk, beaten with r teasPoon

cold water (egg wash), to glaze
sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

rossibte

- by hand

pepper

\4adeira. The duxetle shoutd be soft, but quite dry (if necessary cool< for a littte yotk' ronger to evaporate any tiquid). Coot, then mix in the breadcrumbs and egg

Poncake botter:

roog plain flour

pinch of salt

r Stir the melted butter

into the pancal<e batter. Heat a r5cm cr6pe pan and oil

tightty. Cook the pancal<es, mal<ing them as thin and lacy as possible - you should make ro-rz. Set aside the 4 thinnest pancakes to coo[ (freeze the rest).
5 Now, layer the

r free-range medium egg z5oml miil< r tablespoon melted butter Mushroom duxelle:
15og chestnut mushrooms, or wild

whote bal<ed mushrooms and duxelte. Trim the baked mushrooms to the same size, using a 7cm cutter if necessary. spoon half the duxelte evenly on top of 4 mushrooms. Cover each with another mushroom, then
another layer of duxette, and finatty top with the remaining mushrooms. 6 Wrap each mushroom sandwich in a pancal<e (they won't be comptetety enctosed). Ptace join-side down on a plate and refrigerate' Set the oven to zoooc, Gas 6. Rolt out the pastry (hatfat a time for easy handting) on a tightty floured board to a 3mm thicl<ness. Cut out four rzcm rounds and four r5cm rounds. Brush round the edges with egg wash. Put the mushroom pancal<e parcels on the smalter rounds and cover with the larger ones. Cup one parcel upside-down in your hand and carefutty press the edges together, then trim to leave a rcm edge. crimp this with a fork. Repeat to shape the rest ofthe tortes.

mushrooms as available 5og butter

r tablespoon olive oil r teaspoon chopped tarragon r tablespoon sherrY or Madeira

3og fresh white breadcrumbs

r egg yolk

8 Place the tortes ftat-side down on a non-sticl< bal<ing sheet. Score the pastry with the tip of a thin knife, radiating from the centre but don't cut right through'
Brush at[ over with egg wash and rest in the fridge for 15 minutes or so'

g Bal<e the tortes for zo minutes or untiI puffed and golden brown' Leave on the bal<ing sheet for ro minutes, then carefutly stide on to ptates. Serve with a salad'

Vegetables 775

assiette de legumes with thyme veloutd

':getarian dishes are an increasingly popular choice in my restaurants and I en joy creating new medleys of vegetables that

"
:

-' ,'me veloutd. Vary the vegetables according to the season and personal preference - you might like to serve more of

1once their fabulous colours and flavours. This simple, but sophisticated selection of vegetables is served with a tight
a

'''oller selection ofvarieties. Prepare each vegetable separately

as described, ready to reheat and serve. you will need

''e

crge pan of lightly salted woter for blanching and a big bowl of iced water for refreshing. Make sure there,s plenty of ice in

freezer to keep the refreshing water cool. SERVES z AS A MAIN couRsE, 4 AS A LTGHT MEAL oR STARTER

Confit oftomatoes Set the oven to the lowest setting (Bo-roo.C). Dip the

z-3 plum tomatoes

z fat garlic cloves, thinty sliced z thyme sprigs

:lmatoes into boiling water for 3o seconds or so, then into iced water. Drain and

ip off the sl<ins, then quarter and deseed. Lay cut-side down in a shallow

-:asting tin and cover with olive oit. Add slivers of gartic, thyme and basil sprigs. trlace in the oven for about r/.hours untit the ftesh is soft but intact. season and
:

z basil sprigs
2oog green or white asparagus spears, or a mixture of both

coI in the oit, then drain wel[.

tuparagus Trim the base of the stail<s and peel the tower third with a swivel
,

z Little Gem lettuces

egetable peeter. Blanch the spears in boiling water for z minutes, then remove

loog peas or baby broad beans, or

mixture of both
4 baby artichol<e hearts

:o a bowl of iced water. Eraised lettuces Halve lengthways and saut6, cut-side down, in a tittte otive oiI

'or r-z

minutes. Season tightty and pour in vegetabte nage to a depth of rcm.

6-8 babyturnips, quartered unless tiny

zoog mixed wild mushrooms (such as girol[es, ceps, blewits, morels and shemigi)
sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

lover with a butter paper and cool< over a medium heat for 5 minutes untit lust :ender (the nage will have reduced down to a gtaze). Coot.
Peas and broad beans Pod these and stip the broad beans out

oftheir

sl<ins.

3[anch for z minutes and refresh in iced water.

Baby artichokes Trim the stall<s and hatve the artichol<e hearts [engthways. Drop

'-rto

cold water acidulated with the vitamin c powder or lemon juice. Drain ano

pepper

oat dry when ready to cook. Heat a littte otive oiI in a smal[ frying pan and saut6 :he artichol<es for z-3 minutes. Pour in 3oomlvegetable nage and simmer for
To

cook:

:5-zo minutes untiltender. Remove, cooI stightty, then scrape out the smatt hairy
chol<e on

olive oil 6oomlVegetabte Nage (page zu),

plus extra for reheating
a
1

the base. CooI and pat dry.

Babyturnips Btanch for 3 minutes or until iust tender, then refresh. Saut6ed wild mushrooms Trim the statl< bases, rinse the mushrooms quicl<ty in cold water, drain and pat dry. Heat a thin layer of otive oiI in a pan and saut6 the
mushrooms over a high heat until.just tender. Season tightty and set aside.
TO SERVE Reheat the asparagus,

tittte butter
teaspoon vitamin C powder, or juice of r lemon

turnips, lettuce, peas and broad beans quicl<ry

Thyme Velout6 (page zrz)

and separatety in a

littte hot nage with a littte butter for up to r minute. saut6 the

artichokes and mushrooms separately and briefty in a tittte otive oil untit hot. The tomatoes can be served at room temperature. Reheat the vetout6 and pour inro a
jug. Arrange the vegetabtes on serving ptates and accompany with the vetout6.

Vegetables 777

{ 4
q

a?-...

vegetabtes
ffi -F ,t'
Fi
:
This is simply

i ta grecque
+

veoetarian main

cooled in a balsamic selection of my favourite vegetables, blanched or tightly fried, then grilled steaks or chops' or as Q dressing. lt's very versatile - serve as a Starter, as an accompaniment to two. SERVES AS A STARTER OR ACCOMPANIMENT, z A5 A MAIN couRsE meal

for

$
H

z medium satsifY, trimmed iuice of I lemon z globe artichokes

Peet the satsify thinty, then cut into smatI batons (or thick

jutienne strips) and ptace in a bowt of cold water acidulated with the lemon juice. z Prepare the artichol<es

loog mangetout, trimmed 3 tablespoons olive oil

z medium carrots, thintY sticed
g

only the hearts are used' To

expose them, cut off the stall<s and putt off all the teaves untityou reach the hairy chol<e' Using a small sharp l<nife, peel around the base ofthe heart' Then turn the heart on its side and, using a heavy cool<'s l<nife, cut straight down above the heart to remove the hairy fibres of the chol<e' Scrape off any stray chol<e with a teaspoon to leave the

r [arge or 3 smatI sha[[ots, sticed

z baby [eel<s, chopPed
1

* ai
,+:
3i

teaspoon coriander seeds, crushed (page zr8) 3 tabtespoons Vinaigrette

z tablespoons balsamic vinegar

heart. Cut the artichol<e hearts into batons and add to the
acidutated water. Halve the mangetout crossways' Add the 3 Bring a [arge pan of satted water to the boit. satsify and artichol<e batons and boil for z-3 minutes until

*
:

r tablespoon choPPed coriander

leaves
sea salt and freshlY ground blacl<

% .-..
':u
:+-r

.e

pepper
-=

just tender, but stitt retaining a good bite. Remove with a stotted spoon and ptunge into a bowl of iced water to coot'
btanch for 4 Add the mangetout to the boiting water and

ea .:

r minute, then drain and add to the iced water to refresh'

Drain the cooted vegetables and shal<e dry. pan and saut6 the 5 Heat the otive oiI in a [arge frying carrots, shattot and leel<s with the crushed coriander for

:+
I -.,

z-3 minutes untitiust softened.

6 Stir in the blanched vegetables and heat for a minute or so. Add the vinaigrette, stir for a few seconds, then finatty drizzle the batsamic vinegar over the vegetables. Checl< the seasoning and serve sprinl<ted with chopped coriander'

l*:
*i

il
|'.':

LiF

li:::,ri" ]:. i

This ugly vegetable doesn't took particutarly inviting but it has a good flavour' PeeI away the darl< outer skin to reveal a pale, creamy flesh that resembtes white

i:

-l

asparagus. As soon as you peel the vegetable, immerse it in acidulated water (with lemon iuice orvitamin C added),

oiherwise it wit[ turn brown.

rrB

vegetables

fricassde of witd mushrooms

in this incredibly easy, elegant distjnctive individual flavours that shine through season and the best looking varieties on sale' .:.:companiment. Make your selection according to the during the summer' their warm golden glow ) tn,t miss out on my favourite scottish girolles. Available is prime time for wild mushrooms and ::d f|avour add a special quality to this dish, of course, autumn of year' Fresh wild : -trsuppliers bring in wonderful ceps, trompettes des morts and blewits at this time you need to wash and dry them carefully before cooking' -itshrooms often contain grit and debris, so

,,,ild mushrooms

have

sERVES 4 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT

r First

witd mushrooms and trim the encls' minutes in a Slice [arger ones if necessary. Soak for a few forest rowt of tepid water, swishing with your hands so all jebris sinl<s to the bottom. Drain and shal<e wetl' then pat
picl< over the

3oog setection of witd mushrooms - (such as cePs, girolles, blewits)

z tablespoons olive oil

r shaltot, finelY choPPed

z5g butter rooml doubte cream
sea salt and freshlY ground black

iry in a large clean tea towel or kitchen paper' lf not using

mmediately, spread the mushrooms out on a tray ano further' otace them uncovered in the fridge to dry out and z Heat the olive oit in a large frying pan, add the shallot saute gentty for 3 minutes untilsoftened' to foam' Add the butter and when it has metted and starts
3

pepper

minutes :oss in the cleaned mushrooms. Saut6 for about 5 lntit they are softened. Season to taste' then mix in the
cream and cook for a minute or so'

and fish' a Serve as an accompaniment to gritted meats

wlro mushroomscan be expensive but with a combination of Vou can mal<e a delicious fricass6e brown or chestnut cultivated and fresh witd mushrooms mushrooms. Alternatively, you could use half cultivated

e$ffiF-S Y$ffi

soaked mushrooms with just one wild variety' adding some flavour' the dried porcini or ceps to beef up

Vegetables 179

gratin of Swiss chard with lemon

swisschard,orbletteasitiscalledinFrance,haspalegreen,thick'fleshystalkstoppedwithcrispdarkgreenleaves'Asthe chard is often used to make a creamy cook, they are best cooked separately' Swiss stalks and leaves take different times to to simple grilled or as a vegetarian main course' or accompaniment tart, but here l've turned it into a tasty gratin. serve
z AS A MAIN COURSE roasted meat and fish.SERVES 4 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENI

'r,

5oog Swiss chard leaves

3oomI mitk 75g butter zog ptain flour

(such as 5og grated hard cheese Gruy6re, Cheddar or Beaufort)

rPreheattheoventorgooc,Gas5.washthechardwettandcutthepalegreen lf with a V-shaped cut at the point where they ioin'

statl<s from the leaves

necessary'peetthestat|<stightty,usingaswiveIpee[er,thenhalvelengthways. Sticethesta[|<sintobatons,rcmthic|<.Cuttheleavesintozcmthic|<shreds'
Have ready a large bowl of z Bring a large pan of tightty satted water to the boit'

icedwater.Btanchthechardsta[|<batonsintheboitingwaterfor5minutes,then

r onion, thintY sticed r tablespoon olive oil

grated zest of r lemon z egg yoll<s

removewithastottedspoonandaddtotheicedwater.Leaveforz-3minutes'
then remove with the slotted spoon and drain'

3Addtheshreddedchardtotheboitingwaterandbtanchforjustoverlminute'
Drainandrefreshintheicedwater(asabove).Whenco[d,removeanddrainwell,
then pat dry with kitchen paper and set aside'

rooml double cream

z tablesPoons freshlY grated Parmesan cheese
sea salt and freshtY ground blacl<

4Toma|<ethesauce,heatthemit|<inapanalmostuntitboiting,thenremoveand

setaside'Heat5ogbutterinaSaucepanuntiIfoaming.stirintheflourandcoo|<,
hot mitl<' Cool<' stirring stirring, for I minute, then graduatty whisk in the with a coating consistency' constantty, untit you have a smooth, glossy sauce

pepper

Simmerforzminutes,Seasontotasteandremovefromtheheat.Stirinthe
ro minutes' cheese untit metted and set aside to cooI for the otive oit in a frying pan and with remaining butter 5 Meanwhite, heat the gotden' Add the lemon gently saut6 the onion for about ro minutes untit soft and

zestandsaut6forafewsecondslonger.Mixwiththechardbatonsandleaves,
then tip into a sha[[ow ovenproof dish' whip the cream' then fotd in' 6 Beat the egg yotl<s into the cheese sauce' Lightty

Chec|<theseasoning.Pourthesauceoverthechardandonions,stirringgentlyto
(The dish can be prepared to combine, then sprin|<te with the grated Parmesan. this point in advance and chitled until ready to serve')
'ii:,tn1t"\',:',

{i

"i'

il

il}

s*t$

chard stalks

oven for 15 minutes or until golden brown on 7 Bake the gratin in the

top'

tal<e lorger to cook than the leaves, so

they are best treated separately to maximise their ftavour and different textures. The stall<s need to be btanched first (as You would cook celery); the leaves are then wilted in similar fashion to sPinach.

thoroughtyhotandbubbting.Leavetostandforrominutesbeforeserving.

72O Vegetables

satad of roasted baby beets with balsamic dressing

Sweet, tender baby beetroot have a wonderful earthy taste. Cook them my way to bring out their full flavour

bake whole

,'unpeeled) on a bed of rock salt in a foil parcel, then peel, saut in butter to glaze and dress in good aged balsamic vinegar. I serve the baby beets warm or at room temperature with lamb or oily fish, such as salmon or mackerel. (lllustrated overleaf)
SERVES 4 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT

Preheat the oven to r8ooC, Gas 4. Wash the baby beetroot and trim the tops,

5oog baby beetroot

leaving on a little ofthe teafy stalks and roots. Pat dry.

zoog rocl< salt

z Lay a large sheet of foit on a bal<ing sheet and spread the rocl< satt in the
centre. Nestle the beetroot in the rocl< salt and scatter with thyme, tearing the stems into smatter sprigs. Scrunch the foit and bring the edges together to
enctose the beetroot and seat.

z-3 thyme sprigs

5og butter

3-4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

3 Bal<e in the oven for about r5-zo minutes until the baby beets are tender. Remove, uncover and leave to cool stightty. Wearing a pair of thin rubber gloves (to avoid staining your hands), peel the beetroot white they are still warm, using
a

thin-bladed l<nife. Cut each beetroot in hatf verticatly.

4 Heat the butter in a saut6 pan. When it starts to foam, toss in the beetroot and cook, turning frequently, for a couple of minutes until coated in butter and
gtossy. Add the balsamic vinegar to deglaze and bubbte untiI reduced and

syrupy. Serve warm, or at room temperature.

fl*4 ffi$:-ffi

-$-$ffi
rr

uury beetroot

are unavailable, buy the smallest fresh beetroot you can find and increase the baking time accordingly. After peeting, cut the beetroot into 1cm thick slices before glazing.

Vegetables 127

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;,4 i
,4

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>2

h
themoisture'to Bal<ingbeetrootintheirsl<insonabedof saltisagreatwaytodrawoutsomeof sa[ty' As you becoming it prevents fresh and vegetabre. The skin protects the beetroot concentrate and intensify the ftavour ofthe oee|awavtheskinafterbal<ing,you,l[simpLyremoveanylracesofrocksalt,ieavingsweet,iuicybeets.
i-,11

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Vegetabies 723

fondant of globe artichokes

This classic cooking method gives you lovely tender artichoke hearts to serve warm with melted butter,

Vinaigrette (page

zB)

or Mayonnaise (page zry). When you buy globe artichokes make sure the leaves
OR ACCOMPANIMENT

ore plump and glossy, not shrivelled in any way. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER

2 teaspoons

vitamin

powder

r Dissotve l teaspoon vitamin

C powder in a [arge bowl

of

(see below) 4 large globe artichokes

ice cold water. Snap off the stall<s of the artichokes, then

putt off att the leaves, until you reach the purple-cream

r thyme sprig

inner leaves. Using a smatl sharp l<nife, peel around the

base ofthe heart and trim away the inner leaves. Turn the artichol<e on its side and, using a Iarge cool<'s l<nife, cut

r bay leaf
r fat garlic clove, halved ro white peppercorns ro coriander seeds
1

straight across just above the meaty heart to remove the spiky chol<e. Scrape off any stray wisps of choke with
a

teaspoon sea salt

teaspoon. As you prepare the artichol<e hearts, drop them

4 tablespoons olive

oil

straight into the bowl of acidulated water.

z When all the artichol<e hearts are ready, find a pan that is large enough to tal<e them in a single layer. Cut a circle of greaseproof paper stightty larger than the diameter of the pan to make a cartouche.

3 Remove the artichol<e hearts from the cold water and add them to the pan with the herbs, garlic, peppercorns, coriander seeds and salt. Tricl<le over the olive oil and pour
in enough cotd water to just cover the hearts. Stir in the remaining vitamin C powder.

4 Press the cartouche on top so that it fits snugly to the side of the pan. Bring to the boit, then lower the heat and
simmer for about zo minutes. To test. insert a sl<ewer into the centre of one artichoke heart

- it shoutd meet with

[ittle

resistance. Remove from the heat and leave the artichokes in the water until readv to serve.

flfr$ ffiP-S T$$e w. use vitamin c powder (ascorbic acid) to acidulate water for refreshing vegetables [ike artichokes that would otherwise quickly oxidise and turn brown. You can buy it in small tubs from pharmacists and some Asian food stores. The good thing about vitamin C powder is that it doesn't affect the delicate flavour of artichokes. lfyou do not have any, acidulate the water with the juice of r lemon instead.

I !

724

Vegetables

purde of cauliflower scented with herbs

-:uliflower is a versatile vegetable, but it does emit a rather unpleasant aroma when you cook it in the
..suol way. To counter this, I simmer the florets in milk with added herbs. You con strain off the milk and
..se

it to make a bdchamel sauce (see below), serving the florets as a simple accompaniment, or take '- e dish a stage further as I have here, cooking the cauliflower until really tender then blending to a
,

elvety smooth purde. This purde makes a wonderful base for curry dusted pan-fried fish or scallops.

sERVES 6 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT

r Trim the cauliflower, discarding the leaves, and cut into

r medium cautiflower
3ooml milk r small bay teaf

'iorets. Place in a saucepan and add the mitl<, herbs and

about'/. teaspoon salt. Bring to the boi[, then cover and

simmer gentty. (To serve the florets whole as a simple accompaniment, drain after 5-7 minutes.) For a pure, cool<

r thyme sprig
sea salt and freshly ground white

ior tz-t5 minutes untitthe cautiftower is very tender. z Drain the cauliflower and discard the herbs, reserving the
mitl<. Tip

pepper

the florets into a btender or food processor. Whiz

untilvery smooth, adding enough of the reserved mitl< to

give a very creamy consistency, scraping down the sides a

coupte of times. You may need to btend the mixture for up

to 5 minutes to achieve a really smooth, sill<y texture' 3 Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding a tittte pepper if
required. Serve piping hot.

fl#

mitk in which the cauliflower is cooked can be used to flavour a b6chamet. Make the roux in the usuaI way, then incorporate the flavoured milk and cook,

-:;!$q'S

'l $F rn.

stirring, until smooth.

Vegetables 725

&&*d*ii{,;i!tua,Mffi

}..

{
-.^ .

fondue of Little Gem lettuce

lfyou have never eaten cooked lettuce, I urge you to try it! Cooked in light, buttery stock, this salad
vegetable is surprisingly delicious and makes an excellent accompaniment to poultry and fish. And because it is tender and creamy, you won't need to make a special sauce or gravy to go with the meal.

Little Gem lettuce, with their tightly packed leaves, are the best choice here - allow one per person.
SERVES 4 AS AN ACCoMPANIMENT

fi

4 Littte Gem lettuces

z tablespoons olive oil
Z5g butter, in cubes zoomI Chicl<en Stocl< (page zro)

r Cut the lettuces in hatf [engthways, but don't cut off the
staU<s. Carefutty wash and pat dry

with l<itchen paper.

z Heat the olive oiI in a saut6 pan. When it is reatty hot, tay the lettuce halves in the pan, cut-side down. Season and
cool< over a

r thyme sprig
sea salt and freshty ground black

medium heat for about z minutes untit tightty

caramelised. 3 Graduatty add the butter in pieces and the stocl<, then

pepper

scatter in the thyme, torn into tiny sprigs. Cover the lettuce

with a butter paper or a scrunched sheet ofwet

greaseproof paper. Cook on a low heat for about 8 minutes, basting once or twice, untiI the [ettuce is tender but stitt hotds its shape. The liquid shoutd have reduced to a gtossy gtaze by now. Attow to stand for 5 minutes before serving.

*
'ij

flF.g ffi tr-ffi T$ ffi rryins the lettuce halves first in hot otive oil caramelises the outer leaves and gives them a succulent,
Lr

sweet flavour. Braising them in tight stock with butter thereafter enhances the flavour and lends a creamy,texture.

tZ6

Vegetabtes

braised spiced red cabbage with iuniper

The

simplest cooking techniques are often the best. Here, red cabbage is cooked long and slow, yet

obligingly retains its texture and colour. lt can even be made ahead and reheated without loss of flavour. Don't be tempted to use the more refined wine vinegor, for this dish malt vinegar lends the appropriate flavour. However, the amount of sugar and butter can be adiusted to taste - I prefer mine sweet ond buttery. This dish is wonderful with roast pork, duck, goose and the Christmas turkey.
SERVES

6-8 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT

r red cabbage, about 5oog z5omI malt vinegar roog demerara sugar rz5g butter, diced r teaspoon sea salt
z star anise

Preheat the oven to r4ooC, Gas r. Quarter the cabbage

and cut out the core. Putl off any outer leaves that are damaged or witted, then shred each cabbage quarter as

finety as possible, using a sharp l<nife or mandolin. z Place the cabbage in a large cast-iron casserote. Add the
vinegar, sugar, butter and salt. Tie the star anise, coriander seeds and luniper berries in a smatl square of muslin and nestle in the centre ofthe cabbage. 3 Cover the casserole. A good seaI is essentiat, so ifthe tid isn't tight-fitting, cover the casserote with foit, then put the tid on. Cook for up to 3 hours, until the cabbage is tender,

teaspoon coriander seeds

ro juniper berries freshly ground black pepper

giving it a good stir hatfway through cool<ing.

4 When the cabbage is tender, checl< to see if any iuices

remain. lf so, strain them into a pan and boil down to reduce

untit syrupy, then stir back into the casserole. Discard the
bag of spices and adiust the seasoning before serving.

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rhese dark blue berries

have a sweet, aromatic flavour, reminiscent of pine, They have a natural affinity with cabbage, and are often used to flavour rich meat and eame dishes.

tzB

Vegetables

celeriac 'lasagne'
good flavour. Here I've cooked it in two ways - sliced and as a Serve with meat or fish, or try the varation and serve as a : irde, then combined the two to make an original accompaniment. SERVES 4 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT ght moin meal. The dish can be prepared ahead and reheated without spoiling'
_eleriac

may

not be

the most attractive vegetable, but

it

has a

r preheat the oven to rgooc, Gas 5. cut the top and base from the ceteriac' then
the :eeI away the skin with a swivet peeter - you't[ find it easier to worl( around the circumference of the vegetabte than peeI from top to bottom. Trim away

r large celeriac, about 75og

juice of r lemon 6og butter, softened
4

tnobbty root ends. into z Stand the ceteriac on a board, on its ftat base, and cut down the middte ptace in a bowt traro halves. cut four large, 5mm thick rounds from each hatf and
of cold water acidutated with hatf of the lemon iuice. pan of boiting Chop the rest of the ceteriac into smatt, even dice' Add to a
3

tablespoons double cream

Parmesan cheese

z tablespoons freshlY grated

sea salt and freshtY ground blacl<

pepper

for salted water with the remaining [emon luice and bring back to the boit. cool< to a about 15 minutes untitiust tender. Remove with a stotted spoon and transfer
blender or food Processor.

tift the celeriac rounds from 4 Return the water to the boit. Using a stotted spoon, minutes the acidulated water and stide into the boiting water. simmer for to-tz so they carefutly slices tender and stitt hotding a good shape. Drain the untit iust
stay intact. Set aside.
5 Meanwhite, whiz the diced ceteriac

untit smooth, adding the butter and cream,

to give a very creamy textured pur6e. Adiust the seasoning' and 6 Spread hatf the celeriac pur6e over the base of a shallow ovenproof dish grated the cover with hatf the celeriac stices. Repeat these layers, then sprinl<[e parmesan over the surface. (The dish can be prepared to this point in advance and chitled untiI readY to serve.)
7 To

serve, bake in the oven for about r5 minutes or untiI gotden brown on top'

thoroughtyhotandbubbting.Leavetostandfor5minutesbeforeserving'
VARIATION

toss in Stir-fry z5og peeled tiger prawns untit tender, dust with curry powder and each on half stice the prawns in hatf tengthways, then layer lime or [emon luice.
layer of celeriac pur6e. Finish as above. Serve as a [ight meal'

Vegetables 729

sautded broccoli with crispy garlic and oyster sauce

Broccoli is a highly versatile vegetable and very popular, but it is so easily overcooked. One minute it is too hard, the next it is

unpalatably limp and watery. My solution is to blanch the florets briefly in boiling water then immediately refresh them in iced water. When reody to serve, I stir-fry the broccoli quickly; here it is served Chinese style with a controst of crispy garlic
slivers. An ideol accompaniment for fish or chicken. SERVES 4 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT

r large head of broccoli, about 5oog z tablespoons sunflower or olive oil

z fat garlic cloves, thinty sliced

r Cut off the main stalk, then cut the broccoti into small ftorets. Have ready
large bowl of iced water.

z Bring a large pan of salted water to the boit, add the broccoti ftorets and blanch
for z minutes, timing from the moment the water returns to the boit. lmmediately
drain the broccoli and tip into the bowl of iced water to refresh. Drain and set aside until ready to serve.

r tablespoon sesame oil

r onion, thinty sticed

z tablespoons oyster sauce
sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

3 Heat

l tablespoon sunflower or olive oit in a frying

pan. When it is hot, add the

pepper

garlic slivers and saut6 until golden brown and crispy. Do not attow to scorch or the garlic wil[ taste bitter. lmmediatety remove with a stotted spoon and drain on
l<itchen paper. 4 When ready to serve, heat the remaining sunflower or olive oiI in the pan,

together with the sesame oit. Add the onion slices and saut6 over a medium heat
for about 5 minutes untilsoftened.
5

Add the broccoti ftorets and saut6 until piping hot, tossing carefully to ensure

the florets are not brol<en up. Mix in the oyster sauce, then add the crisp garlic
slivers. Adjust the seasoning and serve immediately.

13O

Vegetables

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rf'rltisanimportanttechniquethathetpstopreservethevibrantcolourandfreshnessofvegetables,by
preventing them overcooking. lt's especially usefuI for fast-cooking green vegetables [ike broccoli. All you need is plenty of iced water to hand - add 3 good handfuls of ice cubes to a targe bowL of cold water. As soon as you drain the vegetables from the boiling water, immediate[y plunge them into the iced water. Leave for about 5 minutes to cool thoroughty, then drain the vegetables and set aside, readv to reheat and serve. The water can be used again, simply replenish the ice cubes.

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eLanching baby onions in boiling water for 3o seconds t0 1 minute [oosen their sl<ins and mal<e it much easier to peel them. However, for this dish, you

find that the onions won't caramelise as successfully if they have been pre-blanchec avoid doing so unLess you are very short of il

carametised baby onions with beetroot ius

rich magenta glaze' -ere baby onions, or shallots, are cooked in a beetroot ius until they take on a as a flavouring ::en served as an accompaniment in their own right, rather than used merely if you have a iuicer, using raw beetroot, or buy bottled beetroot iuice -gredient. Make your own
ius

'"om a

healthfood shop.

SERVES

4-6 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT

lf using fresh beetroot, peel them, wearing thin rubber g[oves to stop your fingers staining. Chop roughty and whiz :hrough your iuicer. lf using bottted beetroot juice, strain and pass through a fine sieve so the [iquid is ctear' You 'reed about zoomI juice.

r large fresh beetroot (about z5og) or

zoomt bottled beetroot iuice roog butter z5og baby onions or small shallots'
peeled few thyme sprigs

z Heat the butter in a large saut6 pan. When it starts to foam, add the whole baby onions or shaltots, with the
thyme and sugar, and cook for about 5 minutes untit tightty carametised. Season with salt and pepper as they cook' nage' 3 Pour in the beetroot iuice and stocl( or vegetable further for a uncovered Bring to the boit, then cool<

'f teaspoon sugar

rooml Chicl<en Stocl< (page zr.o) or
Vegetable Nage (Page zr.r)
sea satt and freshlY ground black

pepper

stirring occasionatly, until the onions are iust tender; they shoutd still retain a bite. Using a stotted
5 minutes,

spoon, transfer the onions to a dish. gtaze' 4 Bubbte up the pan juices untiI reduced to a syrupy Return the onions to the pan and heat through, turning to coat in the glaze. Discard the thyme.

vegetables 133

r
li
moy prefer to

-P:qs4rfiqs@4ffiFE@-'w

parsnip crisps
Beyond potatoes, I think parsnips make the best deep-fried crisps. To create wafer-thin broad ribbons, buy maincrop rather than young parsnips, you'll also need a swivel vegetable peeler. A light dusting of curry salt makes them irresistible, but you

omit this if serving the crisps as an accompaniment rather than

a snacl<. They go

particularly well with venison'

beef steaks and game birds. SERVES 4 A5 AN ACCOMPANIMENT 4 medium parsnips

r Peetthe

parsnips, then top and tail them. Using a swivetvegetable peeler,

vegetable oil for deep-frying, about 5oomI about r teaspoon curry salt
(see right)

mandolin or,lapanese vegetable slicer, shave each parsnip lengthways into wafer-thin stices.

z Pour the oit into a deep-fat fryer or deep, heavy saucepan; it should one-third
fitt the pan. Heat the oit untit it registers r8ooC on a frying thermometer, or untiI smatl cube of day-otd bread dropped into the oil browns in 3o seconds.
a

3 Deep-fry the parsnip wafers, a handful at a time. Using a stotted spoon, add them to the oit and deep-fry for zl minutes until golden brown and crisp. As they fry, keep moving the parsnip crisps around in the pan with the bacl< of the
spoon to ensure an even colour.

4 Remove and drain on kitchen paper, then immediatety sprinl<te the crisps with the curry salt white they are stitt piping hot, so the ftavour is readity absorbed.
Keep warm in a low oven, uncovered, white you cool< the remaining crisps. Returr

the oit to the correct temperature in between frying each batch.

5 Serve the parsnip crisps as soon as you have cool<ed them att.

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134

Vegetabtes

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l1r,$;.'"i Thishassomanyuses,it'sworthmakingmorethanyouneedandstoringtherestinasmalljar. lsprinkteitontoscatiops,prawns, r and chicl<en, to enhance their flavour. To prepare, simply mix l teaspoon medium curry pot','Cer lo every 2 teaspoons fine sea salt.
.,1

fiillt

pomme puree
There are three secrets to a velvety smooth pomme purde. The first is the choice of potato. You need one with a good flavour

and floury texture, such as Desirde or King Edward. Then, to make sure the potato cooks evenly, cut it into chunks of the
same size. Finally, press the

potato through

mouli or potato ricer, rother than mash or beat it, to ochieve a silky, even

texture.
SERVES

To

keep it light, add hot cream and beat in diced butter. Serve plain, or try one of my suggested flavourings below.

4-6 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT

rl<g floury potatoes (such as Desir6e

Peel the potatoes thinty, then cut in even-sized chunl<s, about 5cm. Add to a

or King Edward) r5omI double cream

pan of tightty salted water and bring to the boit. Simmer until tender, a[lowing

about 15 minutes from the moment the water returns to the boil, but checl< after

6o-9o9 butter, cut into small cubes

sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

rz minutes.
z Drain the potatoes, then return to the pan over the heat to dry out for a few
minutes. Then pass the potatoes through a vegetable mouti or press through a

pepper

potato ricer.
3 Meanwhile, boit the cream in a sma[[ pan untiI reduced by hatf. Stir into the potatoes and season with salt and pepper to taste. Now, gradualty worl< in the cubes of butter, according to how rich you want the pur6e to be. A good pomme pur6e witt be able to tal<e a lot of butter without'sptitting'. l(eep warm or chill

untiI required and reheat in a pan or microwave to serve.

FLAVOU RI NG5

Horseradish Add z-3 tablespoons horseradish relish to the finished pur6e.

Mustard Add r tablespoon coarse grain mustard and r teaspoon horseradish

retish to the finished pu16e.

Truffle Add a few drops of truffle oil to the finished pur6e. Serve sprinkted with littte very finety chopped btack truffte if avai[abte.
Celeriac PeeI and

chop/,

smatl celeriac, about z5og, and boit in tightty satted

water until tender. Drain and whiz in a btender or food processor untilvelvety smooth. Mix into the pomme pure with the cream and seasoning.
Basit Heat 4 large basiI teaves in the cream as you reduce it to infuse. Remove

the basiI before mixing into the pomme pur6e.

136

Vegetables

pommes dauphinoise
For this creamy potato gratin, you need to buy a waxy variety that will retain its texture as it absorbs liquid. A traditional gratin is cooked entirely in the oven, but I prefer to simmer the potatoes first in milk on the hob, then finish the dish in the

oven. This method cuts the cooking time and gives you a more dependable result. The potatoes should be of a similar size.
SERVES 4 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT

r Preheat the oven to

zoooC, Gas 6. Peet the potatoes thinty, then slice evenly

6oo9 slightly waxy potatoes (such as

La Ratte or Maris Piper)

into tcm stices. Bring the mitk and cream to the boit in a large saucepan and add the gartic, herbs and seasoning. Simmer for a couple of minutes'
z Stide the potatoes into the pan and stir gently. Simmer for about 7 minutes

35oml milk 35oml double cream

untit the potato slices are onty just tender; they should hold their shape and retain a bite. Drain the par-cooked potatoes in a colander set over a bowl to catch the creamy mitk.
of the 3 Layer the potatoes in a shal[ow ovenproof dish, sprinkling two thirds cheese and seasoning in between the layers. Tricl<te a tittte of the saved mi[l< over each layer too.

r large garlic clove, sliced

r thyme sprig

r bay leaf
9og Gruy6re cheese, grated
sea salt and freshly ground black

pepper

4 Pour a littte more of the mitk around the sides, but not too much - iust enough to moisten. Sprinkte over the last of the cheese' minutes or 5 Ptace the dish in a shaltow roasting tin and bake for about ro-r5

untitthe cheese is beginning to bubbte and turn golden brown. Attow to stand for ro minutes before serving.

rvrut lng ture the potatoes are just you layer them takes the guess work out of cooked before this classic baked potato dish and ensures that it is always

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creamy with a nice bite.

Vegetables 737

eggs benedict with minted hollandaise

ln 894 a Wall Street broker, Lemuel Benedict, ordered the chef at New York's Waldorf Hotel to put together all his favourite

foods-eggs,bacon,toastandHollandaise-tocureahangover. Acenturyon,withmuffinsinsteadoftoastandaminted
hollandaise, this is still one of our popular breakfast dishes at Claridges.
We

poach the eggs ahead and keep the hollandaise

warm in a bain marie, because it cannot be reheated once it has cooled and solidified. SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT MEAL r To mal<e the hollandaise, mett the butter in a pan over a gentle heat, then

4 large free-range eggs

l<nob

of butter

carefully pour off the gotden oil into a jug and discard the mitl<y sotids. Set the ctarified butter aside to cool unti[ [ul<ewarm.

z muffins, split

4-8 slices Parma ham

Minted hollondoise:
:.5og unsalted butter z free-range egg yotks 5 coriander seeds, crushed

z Put the egg yotks, crushed coriander and r tablespoon cold water into

a a

heatproof bowt and fit snugly over a pan of gently simmering water. Using it easier to incorporate the butter).

hand-hetd stick blender or electric whisl<, beat until very tight and frothy (this
mal<es

3 Remove the bowl from the heat and continue whisl<ing for a coupte more

minutes, then slowly tricl<le in the runny butter as you continue to whisl<. Don't
add the butter too quickty or it witt curdle. When all the buiter is incorporated, season with salt and add the reduced vinegar, lemon juice and cayenne. Finatty,

rf

teaspoons reduced white wine

vinegar (see betow)

squeeze of [emon iuice pinch of cayenne pepper 4 large mint leaves, cut into thin julienne strips
sea salt

fotd in the chopped mint. Set the bowl bacl< over the pan of hot water (but off the
heat) to keep warm; stir occasionatly to stop a sl<in forming. lf the sauce does happen to sptit, whisl< in a trickte of cold water to re-emutsify it.

4 Poach the eggs: you can do this in advance for convenience, and to avoid
overcool<ing them (see betow),
5 To

assemble, toast the split muffins tightty on both sides. lf you have poached

the eggs ahead, using a slotted spoon, transfer them to a pan containing enough boiting hot buttery water to cover. Leave to stand off the heat for t5-zo seconds,
no longer or the yotks won't be soft. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain well.

6 Butter the muffins and ptace on warmed ptates. Arrange r or 2 stices of Parma
ham on each muffin, sit a poached egg on top and finally coat with the warm hotlandaise. Serve immediatelv.
b&$firuffi %g$ruffi#effi lt's usefulto reep a small bottte of this in the fridge. To
prepare, pour z5omlwhite wine

ffiffiffiffiffiffiffi

vinegar into a pan, add /rsmall shallot, sliced, a blade of mace and '/a teaspoon black peppercorns. Boil until reduced by half, then strain through a sieve, cooI and pour into a small bottle.

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rt is absotutetv essentiar to use

very fresh eggs to ensure the whites hold together. Hatf-fitl a sha[[ow saucepan with water. add a dash of vinegar and bring to a steady simmer. Meanwhile, break an egg into a cup.
Tc

help the egg set to a neat shape, lightLy whisk the water, using a slow circular movemeni. then reduce the heat to a low simmer. Slide the egg into the pan and poach for t/zminutes. Carefully lift out and place in a bowl of chilled water to stop the cool<ing. Repeat with the remaining eggs and refrigerate untiL needed.

740

Eggs

ru

fried duck eggs with griddted asparagus

Free-range

about z5% larger than a hen's egE becoming much more widety available, which is terrific. They're They are superb fried, but the frying must be gentle' with a bright yellow, rich, creamy yolk that stands proud of the white. crisping. ldeally, you need two blini pans' about tzcm in almost as a confit technique, so the egg white sets without kitchen. This is a great dish to cook when homegrown diameter. otherwise use the smallest frying pan you have in the spring' SERVES z As A LIGHT MEAL asparagus starts to appear in shops and markets, around late

duck eggs

are

20Og green asparagus spears

good olive oi[, to drizzle and frY

tightty satted

peet the lower stems of the asparagus, using a swivel peeter. Bring a pan of water to the boit and btanch the spears for r minute' Drain and

4og butter, cut into thin flakes z free-range ducl< eggs, or extra large
hen's eggs about 3og Parmesan cheese, finelY pared into shavings handfut of rocl<et leaves, about z5g
sea salt and freshlY coarse ground

pat dry. Ptace th: refresh in a bowl of ice-cotd water for 5 minutes, then drain and turn to coat. btanched asparagus in a sha[[ow dish, drizz[e with olive oiI and
l<nob z Pour r tabtespoon otive oit into each of two rzcm btini pans, add a small gentle heat rising, of butter and place over a medium heat. when you can feel a perfection (see ducl< egg into each pan and fry gentty until cool<ed to

crack a

black pepper

betow). Duck eggs witl tal<e 8-ro minutes; hen's eggs 5-6 minutes' griddte pan over a high heat untityou can feel a good 3 In the meantime, heat a z-3 minutes' heat rising, then add the asparagus spears and cool< for about

turning occasionatty, untiI tender and tightty charred' on two warmed large plates and season' 4 To serve, arrange the asparagus

{ I

very scatter over the Parmesan shavings and rocket leaves, dressing these coarsely grind tightty with otive oiI if you tike' Carefutty place a fried egg on top' over some pepper and serve straightaway'

t
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ffiffiffiffiffi#T'flffififfiffi ffiffiffiffi
Crack the egg into the hot oiled pan over a

medium heat. Tilt the pan to centre the yotk - it witt set in position after about 3o seconds. Lower the heat and cook until the egg white starts to firm, about 4 minutes
for duck eggs, 3 minutes for extra large hen's eggs. Stip the butter ftakes down the side of the pan. As the butter begins to foam, spoon it over the egg whites to hetp them cook. Season lightly and cook untiI the whites are just set firm and the yolks are still soft and runny' Loosen the edge with a small palette knife and remove.

742

Eggs

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I44

Esss

tartlets of scrambted eggs with smoked satmon

sled eggs, and the way they are cooked, is a matter of personal taste. I like them creamy and fine-textured, achieved - saring them in the classic way. For an elegant light meal, I line crisp pastry tartlets with smoked salmon, fill them with
' scrambled eggs and top with a little caviar
.,

- Osietra is my preferred
To

choice. For a less extravagant finish, you can

top with smoked salmon strips and snipped chives.

treat the palate to an unforgettable experience, serve the

'-topped tartlets with a swirl of reduced Lobster bisque. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR LIGHT MEAL

. ' .st,

mal<e the

tartlet cases. Cut the pastry into four, then rotI out each portion

'

35og Puff Pastry (page r9o), or ready-made puff

to a round and use to line four rocm tartlet tins with removable bases.

3 the pastry high up the sides, so it protrudes about rcm above the rim. r

4og butter, diced

6 large or 8 medium free-range eggs
4 tablespoons double cream 4 tablespoons miil<

the bases with a forl<. Then carefully stacl< the pastry-tined tins, one on top
l<eeps

-e other - this helps

the pastry thin and crisp as it cool<s. Line the

:sed top tarttet with foiL and bal<ing beans. Leave the stacl< of tart cases to

,:

ln the fridge for r5 minutes.

r5og sliced smoked salmon

sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

- I'eheat the oven to zoooC, Gas 6. Place the tartlet cases, stitl in a stacl<, on a
..','y bal<ing sheet and bal<e for about 15 minutes untiI golden brown. Remove

pepper

.
_-

foiI and bal<ing beans, and carefully separate the tartlet tins. Trim the pastry
To

,3es leveI with the rim of the tins, using a sharp l<nife. Return to the oven for
minutes to crisp the pastry.

serve:

zoomI Lobster Bisque (page rz, optionat)

4 teaspoons caviar

,
-

- the meantime, if serving [obster bisque, boitto reduce by hatf; l<eep warm.
,',/hen ready

to serve, mal<e the scrambled eggs. Put the butter into a wide,

'aIow pan over a low heat. As it begins to melt, add the eggs and whisl<
_.orously with a balloon whisl< as they start to heat. When the eggs begin to -ambte, pour in the cream and mill<. lmmediatety remove from the heat, season

or extra strips of smol<ed satmon and

snipped chives

--d stir gentty with

a forl<

untitcreamy.

?emove the tarttet cases from the tins. Line the sides with the smol<ed satmon,

-- it extends

high above the rims. Place on warmed serving plates and fitt with -e warm scrambled eggs. Top with a spoonfuI of caviar and surround each

:rttet with adrizzle of reduced lobster bisque if you Iil<e. Alternatively, simpty
:o with a few smoked satmon strips and snipped chives. Serve immediately.

:.

Use a wide, shattow pan set over

a medium heat to begin with. Add the butter and as soon as it starts to meLt, crack in the

eggs. Using a baLtoon whisl<, beat vigorously untilthe eggs form soft curds, then whisl< in the cream and mill<. This wiltslow the cuisson down and achieve the correct creamy exture. Season at this stage, not before, and continue to stir gently until soft and creamy. Serve without delav.

Esss 145

Swiss soufft6s
These impressive, delicate bchamel soufflds are cooked in individual ramekins, then turned out to finish cooking in a gratin

dish of cream, with a generous sprinkling of GruyEre. Like all soufflds, they need to be served the moment they are ready, so
have warmed serving plates

and your guests

ready and waiting. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR LIGHT MEAL

3oomlmilk r bay leaf

% small onion

Put the miU< into a pan with the bay leaf and onion and bring to a simmer, then

remove from the heat and set aside to infuse for 3o minutes. Discard the bay teaf and onion. Reheat the mitl<.

3og butter 3og plain flour z59 Parmesan cheese, freshly grated z large free-range eggs, separated,
plus r extra egg white

z Melt the butter in a medium saucepan and stir in the ftour. Cook, stirring, over
a gentte heat for

r-z minutes. Graduatty whisk

in the hot milk,

to make

a smooth

sauce. Simmer for z minutes, stirring once or twice. Remove from the heat, beat in the Parmesan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in the z egg
yoil<s, cover and attow the mixture to cool.
3 When ready

melted butter, to brush

to serve, preheat the oven to zoooC, Gas 6 and prepare four

z-3 tablespoons naturaI colour dried

breadcrumbs

ramekins, 9cm in diameter. Brush the insides evenly with melted butter, then

sprinkte in the crumbs and tap a[[ round to coat with an even layer, tipplng out
any excess. Stand the ramel<ins on a bal<ing sheet.

aooml double cream freshty grated nutmeg roog GruyEre or EmmenthaI cheese, grated
sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

4 In a clean grease-free bowl, whisk the 3 egg whites with a good pinch of salt until they form soft firm peaks. Beat a third ofthe egg whites into the sauce to tighten it, then using a targe meta[ spoon, gently fotd in the rest. Divide between the ramekins and level the tops. Bake for ro-rz minutes untilwell risen and the
surface is set and golden brown. 5 In the meantime, pour the cream into a large shallow ovenproof gratin dish anc

pepper

sprinkle with satt, pepper and nutmeg. 6 Now work fast! As soon as the souff[6s are ready, quicl<ly run a thin table knife
round the side of each one. Hotding each ramel<in with a cloth, upend the

souffl6s into the cream, one at a time. Sprinl<te the grated cheese over the top
and bal<e in the oven for ro minutes. Serve immediatelv.
!^9X;: t,': d" 'f'tss L ffi nn- ;$ t :r- ltisimportantto whisk the egg whites to the correct softly peaking consistency. lf overbeaten the whites wil[ become grainy and you won't be able to foLd them into the mixture smoothly. The souffL6 mixture can be prepared to the end of step z wetl in advance (up to z4 hours) and kept in the fridge untiI ready to finish and serve.

146

Esgs

perfect cheese omelette

tn theory it's easy to make an omelette, but the timing is critical. The perfect omelette is pale golden on the outside

without

:he slightest tinge of brown, and soft and creomy in the centre, which the.French term bauvese. If overcooked, an omelette

*ill

be hard and leathery, and quite unpalatable. The secret lies in the technique of constantly stirring and shaking the pan

during cooking, then folding and tipping the omelette straight on to a warmed serving plate so it folds neatly into three. SERVES r AS A LIGHT MEAL

r Place

a 2o-27cm

omelette pan over a medium-high heat. Beat the eggs in

3 medium free-range eggs

bowl untiI evenly blended, but don't add satt or pepper at this stage. Add the olive oiI to the pan and, when you can feel a good heat rising, slip in the butter and swir[ it in the pan as it foams and melts.

r tablespoon olive oil

large knob of butter, about r5g 5og grated Gruy6re or mature Cheddar cheese
sea salt and freshly ground black

z Pour in the beaten eggs and swir[ them round and round in the pan with a fork,
shaking the pan frequently with one hand. The trick is to get the eggs to an even tight, creamy texture at this stage.
3 When

pepper

the mixture is three-quarters set, stop stirring with the fork and leave

undisturbed for 3o seconds or so, untiI the base ofthe ometette is just set. Loosen the edges with a palette l<nife.
4 Wrap your free hand in a ctean tea towe[, hotd the pan just off the heat,

titt

away from you and bang the side opposite the handle on the surface a few times.

This has the effect of shal<ing the omelette loose from the pan so that it begins to slide on to the edge furthest away from you.
5 At

this point, season with salt and pepper and scatter over the cheese. Then,

hotding the pan handle again, flip the third of the omelette furthest from you into the centre. Now hold the pan over a warmed plate and slide the omelette out, so

it folds over into a neat roll. For real perfection, use your tea towel to shape the omelette ro[[ neatly. And that's it. The heat of the creamy centre is sufficient to
melt the cheese. Serve at once.

Th$ ffi ffi$ffi$$T"$"ffiffi$-ffi

rr'.

choice of pan is important. You need a frying pan about zrcm in diameter, with rounded sides that make it easier to flip the ometette. We use a heavy duty nonstick pan that can take metal forks, but if

C# ffi$]-S #iffii#qffiT Don't season the esgs before you cook them, because salt breaks down the albumen in the eggwhite and thins the mixture, giving a less satisfactory result.

yours is not as robust, then use a wooden or heatproof plastic fork for stirring.

Esss 147

open omelette of goat's cheese and spinach

As a modification of

the

on top of a perfect omelette technique, chunks of chEvre and boby spinach leaves are scottered

soft'

I use a cendrd (ash-coated) goat's cheese' but set omelette, which is then flashed under the gritl to tightly colour the chdvre. q and crusty bread' you could substitute a herb-coated chEvre ifyou prefer. Serve straight from the pan with mixed leaf salad
SERVES 2 AS A LIGHT MEAL

z good handfuts of babY sPinach leaves, about 5og z tablespoons olive oil 4 large free-range eggs

r preheat the gritt to medium.

Put the spinach into a saucepan with r tablespoon

otive oit and place over a low heat for about 3o seconds untit tightty wilted, then remove from the heat and drain on l(itchen paper. Tease the tightty cool<ed leaves apart to seParate.

zog butter, diced roog good, soft ch6vre (PreferabtY

cendr6), with rind z tablespoons freshlY grated Parmesan cheese
sea salt and freshlY ground blacl<

z place a27-23cm ometette pan overa medium-high heat. Beatthe eggs in a bowt untiteventy btended, but don't add satt or pepper. when you can feel a
good heat rising, add the remaining tabtespoon olive oil to the pan and swir[ round the base, then drop in the diced butter and allow to melt and foam. pour in the eggs. Take a forl< (ideatty metal if your 3 when the butter is foaming,
pan witt take it, otherwise a wooden or heatproof ptastic one) and stir the egg

pepper

mixture round in the pan. When the mixture is two'thirds set, stop stirring with the fork. Pinch the chEvre into pieces and scatterthese and the spinach leaves
over the surface of the ometette. Season tightty (you

won't need much satt

because of the cheese). Sprinkte with the Parmesan' Now place the omelette pan under the gritt until the top is tightty set and the

patette cheese is gotden. Remove from the heat and loosen the edges with a l<nife. Stide the ometette out of the pan and serve, cut into wedges'

VARIATIONS Try one of the fotlowing alternative toppings:

caramelised onion and anchovy cool< z-3 sticed red onions slowly in olive oil with a tight sprinl<ting of sugar untit softened and carametised. coot stightty' thescatter over the hatf-set ometette and top with 4-6 snipped anchovy fillets.
Finish as above.
anc Confit of cherry tomatoes Slow roast cherry tomatoes in otive oit with thyme seasoning untiI tender. scatter over the hatf-set ometette with torn basi[. Finish as above.

Omelette Arnold Bennet Top the half-set ometette wiih ftaked, poached smokec
haddocl<, creamy Mornay cheese sauce and grated cheese. Gratin6 under the
d

gril[ as above.

tr+v t,Q,

Foo< -oo'

:,**:;,,* i#:l.,l;i ff :x?l#i}r T:ffi :lfiffi

.;r#:lhrrl:lff

rn[T::*I[lil:.:;

15

Eggs

chocolate and tiramisu parfait

'ese decadent parfaits comprise three layers: a chocolate hazelnut base, a sabayon flavoured with fortified wines, and a (pages t5B-Q, or buy a good quaLity luxury :oop of vanilla or white chocolate ice cream on top. Use a homemade ice cream

mould the pa(aits, use metal cutters if possible (available from good cookshops), or ramekins. As sabayon never :ezes solid, the parfaits must be served prompfly SERVES 6 'and.
To

For the chocolate tayer, put the chocotate, hazetnuts, icing sugar, cream and ..lm into a heatproof bowl. Set over a pan of gentty simmering water untiI the

Cho co

lote

h aze ln

ut base :

roog good quatity miil< chocolate

(such as Valrhona's Jivara), about 3o% cocoa solids

,hocolate has melted, stirring occasionatty. Remove and stir well untit smooth

:nd creamy. Leave to cool to room temperature.

z Meanwhite, set six 6cm metal ring cutters on a tray tined with cting fitm. Or tine

3og roasted chopped hazelnuts r tablespoon icing sugar roomI double cream r tablespoon rum

c ramel<ins with cting film, pressing welI into the sides and base for a snug fit,

:nd atlowing plenty to overhang the sides.

3 Give the chocotate mixture a stir, then spoon into the moutds. Tap on a work

surface to level the mixture, then put in the freezer. 4 Now mal<e the sabayon. Put the egg yoll<s, sugar, Madeira and Marsala into a
.arge heatproof bowt. Set this over a pan of gently simmering water and whisl<,

Saboyon:
5 free-range egg yoll<s

:sing an electric hand whisl< or battoon whisl<, for at least ro minutes untilyou
:rave a pate gotden

lOOg Casrer sugar

tight, stable foam, the consistency of thicl< double cream. The

rl rl
To

tabtespoons Madeira or medium tabtespoons Marsala

sabayon is readywhen the mixture [eaves a trail as the beaters are tifted.
5 Remove from

dry sherry

the heat and continue whisl<ing for another 5 minutes or so, untiI

cool. Tal<e the moulds or ramel<ins from the freezer and spoon the sabayon on

top ofthe chocolate layer. Return to the freezer and freeze until firm.

serve:

6 Unmould the parfaits and top with ice cream and chocolate shavings to serve.

6 sma[[ scoops White Chocolate lce

Cream (page ry9) or Classic Vani[[a

lce Cream (page r58)

darl< chocolate shavings

'j
,i

*F#fl#L&YS SE*&hsgru#S
The easiest wav to shape thin chocolate curls is to shave them directty from a block

of chocolate, using a swivel vegetable peeler or sharp knife. The chocolate must be at room temperature, not taken straight from the fridge.

Eggs

757

Eton mess
OriginalLy a tuck shop treat at that well known boarding school, Eton Mess has evolved into a

scrumptious pudding that couldn't be easier to prepare. Meringues are simply crushed, then fotded into whipped cream with chopped strawberries. Easy French meringue is used here - it bakes to a crispness on the surface, but remains slightly gooeyinside. SERVES 6-8

Meringue: z large free-range egg whites

pinch of fine sea salt or squeeze of lemon juice

1 Preheat the oven Gas

to its lowest setting, maximum roooC,

/q. Line a bal<ing sheet with bal<ing parchment.

z Place the egg whites in a ctean, grease-free bowt. Add the

satt or lemon luice and whisl< with a hand-hetd electric
whisl<

roog vanitla sugar (see below), or

caster sugar

untilthe egg whites lust hotd firm peal<s. Do nor over-beat or the mixture will become dry and grainl. untityou have
a

3 Graduatty whisl< in the sugar, a tablespoonful at a time,

To

assemble:

firm glossy meringue that holds its shape.

4ooml double cream z5og ripe strawberries, huIted

z tablespoons l<irsch or sherry

4 Spread this on the prepared bal<ing sheet in an even layer, about 2cm thicl(. Bal<e for at [east z hours untit tightly crusty on top. lf your oven is very [ow, or you are using
a

(optionat)
:.

warming oven, the meringues may be teft inside to dry out for up to 6 hours. Carefutty tift the meringue (by the paper)
on to a wire racl<. Leave to cooI completely, then peel off

tablespoon chopped pistachio nuts (unsalted)

the paper. Breal< the meringue into z-3cm pieces.

5

Whip the cream just untiI it forms soft floppy peal<s.

Roughty cut up the strawberries and toss with the l<irsch or sherry if using.
6 When ready to serve fold the crushed meringues and

strawberries into the cream and spoon into 6 or 8 small

i i" :.. r;, ,i],, i-i i:; n nur. your own fragrant vaniLta sugar by burying r or z vanilla pods in a jar of caster sugar. Leave to infuse for at [east 48 hours before using. Keep the pods in the jar and replenish the sugar as necessary.
lr',:li

;t

it

dishes. Sprinl<te with chopped pistachio nuts and serve.

Very fresh eggs are noL Lhe secret to successful meringue. The best texture is achieved with eggs that are at least r week old. You will also get a better

result ifthe egg whites are at room temperature, rather than tal(en straight from the fridge. lfyou have separated egg whites in the fridge destined for meringue, but you're not sure
how many, weigh them and use an equaI quantity of sugar.

752

Eggs

I,
t

ite flottante
favourite French dessert that cleverly illustrates the versatility of eggs. The yolks go to make on espresso coffee cr\me anglaise, while the whites are whisked up to make meringues, which are gently poached rather than
This is my version of a

boked.

To

serve, the billowy meringues are floated on the coffee custard and drizzled with caramel. SERVES 4

r First

mal<e

the custard. Put the egg yoll<s and brown sugar into a heatproof

5 free-range egg yolks 9og soft light brown sugar z5omI double cream

bowl and whisl< until thick and creamy. Meanwhile, bring the cream and milk atmost to the boit in a heavy-based pan and stir in the coffee. Slowly pour the creamy coffee milk on to the egg mixture, whisking att the time. z Strain through a fine chinois or sieve back into the pan and cool< over a low heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, untiI the custard begins to thicl<en and thinty coat the bacl< ofthe spoon, about z-3 minutes. Do not allow to boit as the custard wit[ curdte. Cover the surface with damp greaseproof paper to prevent a skin forming and allow to coo[. Then pour into a [arge sha[tow bowt, or individuat serving bowls, cover with cting fitm and chitt.
3 To make

z5oml whole

miU<

5oml espresso coffee or strong

instant coffee Meringue:

z eggwhites squeeze of lemon juice

the meringues, whisk the egg whites with a squeeze of lemon luice in

loog caster sugar 3oomlwhole milk

Caramel: 6og caster sugar
1

a clean, grease-free bow[, using a hand-hetd etectric whisl< or balloon whisl<,

untit they form soft peal<s. Whisl< in the sugar, a spoonful at a time. Once it is atl

incorporated, continue to whisl< for z minutes [onger.

4 Pour the mill< into a large shatlow pan and bring to a simmer. Spoon 3 or 4 neat queneltes of meringue into the simmering milk and poach, uncovered, for about z minutes. Using a stotted spoon, carefully turn each meringue over and poach for another z minutes. Do not cover with a pan lid or the meringues wi[[ cottapse' When cooked, lift out the meringues with the spoon and float on the coffee custard. Repeat to cool< the remaining meringue. Allow to cool.
5 For the caramet, mix

teaspoon liquid glucose

the caster sugar, glucose and z tablespoons cold water in

a heavy-based pan and leave to stand for ro minutes. Ptace the pan over a low

heat to dissolve the sugar stowly, stirring once or twice. When the [iquid is crystal
ctear, raise the heat and bubble until the syrup turns a rich darl< brown caramel

(but don't stir, or stop watching). lmmediately remove from the heat and carefulty
drizzte the carameI over the meringues. Leave to stand for ro minutes before serving, so the carameI sets to a crunchy topping.

ffi #ffi

F$#LF ffi

{k#

ffi ru

tr

LilSS

Dip a dessertspoon into a bowl of hot water to warm it slightLy, then dry. Dip the spoon sideways into the meringue and curl to take up an oval. lmmediately, tip the quenette out sidewavs into the simmering milk to poach.

Esss 153

my baked alaskas
lnstead of baking in a very hot oven which can be unpredictable, I envelop individual alaskas in ltalian meringue and wave a

blow-torch over the surface to finish. The effect is stunning and they taste divine. A sugar thermometer is useful here, to
check the temperature of the sugar syrup for the meringue. MAKES 6-8

Genoise sponge bose: 5og butter 4 medium free-range eggs

To make

the sponge, melt the butter, then cool to room temperature. Preheat

the oven to r9ooC, Gas 5. Line a shallow bal<ing tray with bal<ing parchment. z Whisl< the eggs and sugar in a large heatproof bowl over a pan of gentty
simmering water, using a hand'held electric whisl<, untiI the mixture is pate, thick and creamy. lt shoutd leave a traitas you lift the beaters. Remove the bow[ from

rz5g caster sugar

rz5g ptain flour, sifted

Filling: zoog raspberries, tightty crushed
6 scoops good quatity ice cream

the heat and whisk for a further 3-5 minutes to coot. 3 Using a large metal spoon, gently fotd in the flour. Now, drizzle the runny butter
down the side of the bowl and fotd this in very gently. Carefulty pour on to the prepared tray and gently spread to a 1cm thicl<ness, mal<ing sure the surface is tevet. (lt doesn't matter if the mixture doesn't extend to the sides of the tray.)

(preferably homemade, page r58)

Italian meringue:
18og caster sugar

about ro minutes, until golden and iust firm to the touch. Leave on the tray for ro minutes, then turn out on to a wire rack and peel offthe paper.
Bal<e for

4 To mal<e the meringue, put the sugar, glucose and 3 tabtespoons water into a

rl

teaspoons liquid gtucose

medium heavy-based saucepan and leave to stand for:.o minutes, then dissotve over a medium heat, stirring once or twice. When the tiquid is clear, increase the heat and boit untit the syrup registers tzooC on a sugar thermometer. 5 In the meantime, whisl< the egg whites with a squeeze of lemon iuice in a clean, grease-free bow[, using a hand-held electric whisk or ba[[oon whisl<, until they form soft peal<s. With the beaters stitt whirting, slowly pour the hot syrup down the side of the bowt and continue beating on fu[[ speed for ro minutes to a firm, glossy meringue. Set to one side.

3 large free-range egg whites squeeze of lemon juice

6 Using a 6-7cm cutter, cut out rz discs of the baked sponge' Place six on a tray,
tined with cting fitm and top with a layer of crushed raspberries'
7 Now finish one at a time, so the ice cream doesn't melt. Ptace a neat scoop of

ice cream (the same diameter as the discs) on the raspberries, then top with a ptain sponge disc. Quicl<[y cover the top and sides with meringue, swirting it

attractively. Repeat to finish the rest ofthe atasl<as, then ptace, uncovered, in the
freezer untiI ready to serve. 8 To serve, place each ataska on a serving plate and wave a cook's blow'torch

tightly and quickty over each meringue to colour. This onty tal<es seconds - take
care to avoid over-scorching. Serve at once.

154

Esss

w,

#
,,

.upiif,f#

tut;''

.''.'

"

nt2ffi

ttfT1fffffft1fi**t',,'.';1;;ff;ffi:lilili"i:,iliil'J::1i'#'l:i:i5ilff;!;Jff:ifi;':l"Jl*lljiill:Jff"'

calvados rice br0[6es

As

a twist on classic crdme brAQes, t spoon

a rich, creamy rice

pudding into ramekins, scatter demerara sugar over the

surface and caramelise the topping. The simple combination of flavours works brilliantly. Serve with apple tuiles (see below' or sliced fresh fruit, such as peaches or mango, if you haven't time to make the tuiles. SERVES 6

9og pudding rice

To mal<e

the pudding, put the rice into a large non-sticl< saucepan with the mitk.

z5omtwhole milk
z5omI double cream 9og caster sugar 6 free-range egg yotl<s z tablespoons Calvados
6 tablespoons demerara sugar

cream and caster sugar. Bring stowly to the boit, then turn the heat down and simmer for about z5 minutes, stirring occasionally until the rice is soft and plum: and the mitl< is mostty absorbed.

z Meanwhile, beat the egg yotks in a bowl untit thick and creamy. Stowty mix in the rice pudding, then return to the pan and cool<, stirring, over a low heat for a
couple of minutes or so untiI it starts to thicl<en. Do not overheat or it wit[ curdle.

To

serve:

Appte Tuiles (see below), or peach or mango stices

3 lmmediatety remove from the heat and stir in the Calvados, then divide the rice pudding between six ramekins and allow to cool. Chitt untit required. pudding 4 When ready to serve, sprinl<[e demerara sugar thicl<ty on top of each
and wave a blow-torch over the surface to mett and caramelise the sugar' Don't do this in advance or the sugar will dissotve into a syrup rather than caramelise.
5 Serve

the puddings as soon as they are atl carametised' Set the ramekins on

smatt ptates, with appte tuiles (see below) or sliced peach or mango on the side

r..i:.l-.: prefreat the oven to its lowest setting, maximum roooC, Gas /+. Core, but do not peeI a Granny Smith apple, then cut into thin, even slices. Cover a [arge bal<ing sheet with a non-sticl( siticone liner. Dip the appte slices, one at a time,
into Stock Syrup (page 164), then lay on the silicone mat, making sure they are not touching. Place in the oven until dry and crisp, about z hours. Remove to a wire rack to cooI and crisp.

756

Esss

crEme anglaise
A

good crEme anglaise - or homemade custard souce

- tastes superb,

and it can be served either worm or chilled. tt

complements so many desserts, from sophisticated fruit tarts through to homely puddings and pies, and of course it is an integral part of some recipes, including trifles ond classic bavarois. Crdme anglaise will keep for z3 days in the fridge as long as you cover the surface to stop a skin forming. And although it cannot be frozen as it is, you can churn it in an ice cream machine to make wonderful ice cream. You may be surprised by the suggestion of UHT milk, but it does make the custard
more stable. MAKES ABOUT 6ooml

r Putthe miU<and cream into

a heavy-based saucepan with

rtabtespoon ofthe

z5omI whole miU<, preferably UHT

sugar (this wilt hetp to stop the mixture boiting over).

z5oml double cream

a

z Using a ba[[oon whisl<, beat the rest of the sugar and egg yoll<s together in with the tip of a l<nife and add them to the yotk and sugar mix.

5og caster sugar 5 large free-range eggyotks z vanilla pods

large heatproof bowt. Stii the vanilla pods [engthways, scoop out the tiny seeds

3 Add the empty vanilla pods to the mill< and cream, then slowly bring to the boit.
As

the tiquid starts to creep up the sides ofthe pan, gradualty pour on to the

sugary yolks, beating well. 4 Strain the mixture through a sieve bacl< into the pan, then ptace over a low heat. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon untiI the custard thicl<ens stightty

- enough

to thinly coat the back ofthe spoon. lfyou draw a finger along the bacl< ofthe spoon, it should leave an impression. A sugar thermometer can be used to check when the custard is cool<ed sufficientty

the temperature should be 8z-84oC.

5 lmmediatety remove the pan from the heat and strain the custard back into the

bowl through a fine sieve. Cover and allow to coo[, stirring occasionally to prevent a sl<in forming. Chitt untit required (or churn into ice cream).

FL-qqr#ffi

ffi ffi

ffi tffi

ffi

&4ffi eruffi fr-&$Sffi vou.un

infuse the creamy milk with other flavourings, omitting the vanilla pods. For a minted crdme angLaise, for example, add the leaves from 6 mint sprigs to the hot creamy milk and set aside to infuse for 3o minutes, then remove the leaves and return the liquid to the

boil before adding to the yolk and sugar mix.

Esgs

157

.,.,^,*li$uu**lU;*,*,gffi4.**m

classic vanitta rce cream

We

freezers

only ever serve homemade ice cream in our restaurants. There is always a good variety of flavoured ice creams in the to complement our desserts, and most of them are based on crEme anglaise. Pale yellow and speckled with tiny

black vanilla seeds, real vanilla ice cream is far superior to bought ice cream. The secret to success is a smooth texture, and you to invest in using an ice cream machine is the best way to achieve this. tf you haven't got one already, then I recommend
a

good quality domestic ice cream machine with o built-in freezer motor. MAKES ABOUT r.z LITRES

5oomI whole mill<, preferablY UHT

Mal<e

the crdme angtaise (fottowing the method on page rl7). Coot quickly over

5ooml double cream loog caster sugar

a bowt of iced water and chill thoroughty.

z Pour the chitled crdme angtaise into an ice cream machine and churn until thick
enough to scoop. Either serve straightaway or transfer to a freezerproof plastic tub, seat and put in the freezer. (lfyou do not have an ice cream machine, freeze

rz large free-range eggyotks

4

vanilla pods

the chitted crdme angtaise in a shaltow container, beating thoroughty at least

three times during freezing.)
3 To enjoy

the ice cream at its best, eat within a weel<, altowing it to soften at

room temperature for about ro minutes before scooping. For convenience' you may wish to scoop the soft ice cream into batts and open freeze these on a non-

stick tray, ready to serve (or pacl< into a plastic tub if not serving at once). As ice cream readily absorbs the flavours of food stored atongside it, containers must
be well seated.

VARIATIONS attractive decorations are simply made from 'spent' pods. As you scrape the vanilla seeds out (for your
crdme anglaise, perhaps) make sure you keep one end of the pod intact. Then, using the tip of a very sharP, thin bladed knife, slit each pod lengthways as many times as you can, keeping the end intact. Place on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and spread out the strands. Repeat to make as many vanilla fans
as you need, then cover with another sheet of greaseproof paper and place

By adding different flavours to the crEme anglaise before churning it, you can

create a variety of ftavoured ice creams. These are some of my favourites' Orange flower water Omit the vanilla. Add z-3 tabtespoons orange flower water

to the crdme anglaise as it cools. cinnamon Substitute the vanilta pods with z cinnamon sticl<s and 1 teaspoon
ground cinnamon.

Mint Omit the vanitta. Infuse the hot mitl< with a large sprig of mint and set aside untit cotd. Remove the mint, return the mitk to the boiI and continue as above.
Caramel Before you start making the crdme anglaise, gently heat roog sugar with r tablespoon cold water and 4og butter in a heavy-based pan, stirring until dissotved. Increase the heat and cook until the tiquid turns gotden brown'

another baking tray on top. Bake at

r8ooC, Gas

4for zo-25 minutes. When

lmmediatety remove from the heat and whisl< in the mill< and cream for the
custard. Then proceed with the recipe for crdme anglaise'
Rum and raisin Warm 6-8 tablespoonfuts raisins in rooml each darl< rum and

the kitchen fitls with the aroma of vanilla you know they are readY.
Remove and coot. Use to decorate ice

creams and other desserts.

Stock Syrup (page 16+), then remove from the heat and macerate for z4 hours. Drain and add to the crdme angtaise before churning.

158

Esgs

white chocolate ice cream

Not oll ice creams have a crEme anglaise bqse. This one is

simply a mixture of melted white chocolate, cream qnd milk,

combined with an inert sugar, liquid glucose, to keep it smooth. We have very fost freezing machines in our kitchens, which keep the mixture churning until it is smooth and firm enough to scoop into.balls. At home, I suggest that ofter churning the mixture in your domestic ice cream mochine, you tronsfer it to a suitable container and leave it in the freezer for an hour or

two before scooping into balls. Good quality white chocolate is essentiaL MAKES ABOUT goomt

Breal< up

the chocolate into a large heatproof bowl and add the remaining

16og white chocolate

ingredients. Place the bowl over a pan of gently simmering water and heat
stowty, stirring frequentty, until the chocolate melts smoothly into the tiquid. Don't a[[ow the mixture to become too hot otherwise the chocolate might 'seize'. It should be just warm enough for the chocolate to melt and blend smoothty.

z5oml double cream

5oomlwhole milk
5og icing sugar

r4og pot liquid glucose

z Remove the bowl from the pan and pour the mixture into a cotd bow[. Leave untit quite cotd, then pour into an ice cream machine and churn untit it is as thick
as possible. Scoop into a freezerproof container and freeze for

z3

hours or until

it is firm enough to scoop into balls. 3 For convenience, you can scoop the ice cream into sma[[ batls and open freeze these on a tray lined with a sheet of baking parchment. Freeze untiI solid, then
ptace in a freezerproof container and l<eep frozen untiI ready to serve.

flF{ ffiffi-S Yfrffi

Liquio grucose is available from pharmacists and the baking

section of larger supermarkets.

Esss 159

kn i cl<e rbocl<er glo ri es

This is my chic version of the favourite British sundoe that takes its name from the striped pantaloons worn by Victorian

the seaside. Here tall glasses are filled with delicate layers of fresh orange ielly, panna cotta, crushed amaretti and sliced peaches, then topped with ice cream and a flamboyant fruit finish to serve. SERVES 4-6
ladies at Oronge Jelly:

For the ietty, put the orange

juice into a pan with the icing sugar to taste and boil

Tooml fresh orange juice

z-3 tablespoons icing sugar

3 sheets leaf getatine (or z teaspoons

to reduce to about 5oom[. Meanwhite, soal< the getatine leaves in cold water until softened. (Or soal< powdered gelatine in z tabtespoons cold water untilspongy.) z Remove the gelatine leaves from the cotd water and squeeze out excess water, then stide them into the hot orange tiquid (or add the softened gelatine) and stir briskty untitdissotved. Cool to room temperature. Pour z tablespoons into each glass and chitt untit set. Pour the rest into a shallow bowl and chitt untit set.
(Or soak 3 For the panna cotta, soal< the gelatine leaves in cold water untitftoppy' powdered gelatine in z tablespoons cold water until spongy.)

powdered gelatine)

Ponna cotta: 4 sheets leaf gelatine (or 3 teaspoons powdered getatine)

6oomldouble cream
r5omI mill<
15og caster sugar

4 Stowty bring the cream and mitl< to the boiI in a large saucepan, stirring. Lower the heat and bubbte gently for about 5 minutes to reduce by about a third'
Remove the getatine leaves from the cold water and squeeze out excess water.
Tal<e

grated zest of r orange

z tablespoons white rum (optional)

the pan offthe heat, stir in the sugar and orange zest, then stide in the

getatine (or add the softened gelatine), stirring untiI dissolved. coot stightty, then
mix in the rum, if using. Transfer to a bowl and set aside to coot.

To

serve:

75-roog strawberries, finely chopped 6-8 amaretti biscuits, crushed z ripe peaches, thinly sliced

jetty in each glass and chitl 5 Pour z tabtespoons of panna cotta on top of the set to set. Pour the rest into a shattow bowl and chitt untiI set.
6 Turn the set letty out of the shatlow bowl on to a sheet of bal<ing parchment and

chop finety, using a sharp knife dipped in cold water. Add a thin layer of finely chopped strawberries to each glass, then a layer of chopped ietty'
7 Stir the

8-ro sma[[ scoops of good quatity

vanilla ice cream (preferably
homemade, page r58)

softly set panna cotta in the bowt, then spoon a layer on top ofthe

dried pineappte and star fruit slices (optionat, see betow)

chopped ietty. Add crushed amaretti, then arrange the peach stices on top. Finatty, as a crowning glory, top the peaches with two scoops of vanitta ice cream and finish with dried fruit stices or sliced strawberries. Serve immediatety'

Oven-dried wafer-thin slices of firm fruit, such as pineapple, apple, banana (iltustrated make a stunning decoration. Simply cut slightly under-ripe fruit into very fine slices. right), and star fruit using a sharp, serrated fruit knife. Sprinkle fruit that is liable to discoloration, such as banana, with lemon juice. Dip the fruit stices quickty into Stock Syrup (page 164), shake offexcess, then lay on baking sheets lined with silicone cool<ing liners- Leave in the oven on its lowest settihg for a good z hours until firm and almost translucent' The slices will crisp up on cooling. Store in airtight ptastic containers for up to a week.

mffi$ffiffi FffiU{ H 5LE{,ffi$

t6z

Fru

it

i
,1i,

tropical fruit satad with pomegranate seeds

Make the most of tropicat fruits during the winter when they are in good supply and homegrown fruits are limited. Put them together in a vibrant fruit salad to brighten the winter days. Pomegranates are in season from late outumn through to the

spring and their fragrant, juicy seeds add a special quality to this salad. Vary the flavour of the stock syrup according to taste. I suggest aromatic Angostura Bitters and a dash of grenadine syrup to accentuate the pomegranate flavour. SERVES 6-8 z5omI Stock Syrup (see below) juice of z lemons r tablespoon Angostura Bitters

r Mix the syrup with rooml boiting water, then stir

Bitters and grenadine.

in the lemon juice, Angostura

z-3 tablespoons grenadine syrup r medium ripe pineapple r large ripe mango r large peach
r Asian pear (nashi)

z Prepare the fruits. Peelthe pineapple and remove the 'eyes'with the tip of a vegetable peeter or sharp l<nife. Cut into quarters, remove the core and cut the
ftesh into bite-sized chunks. Ptace in a large bowl and pour on the syrup. 3 Cut the mango down either side ofthe [arge stone' PeeI away the skin and cut the flesh into small cubes. Add to the bowt.

r star fruit
z kiwi fruit, peeled zz5g strawberries, hulled 1-2 pOmegranales
1

4 Dip the peach briefty into hot water to loosen the skin, then peet. Cut in hatf, twist to separate and thinty slice the flesh. Peet, quarter and core the Asian pear, then slice thinty. Stice the star fruit and l<iwi fruit. Halve or quarter the strawberries. Add att these fruits to the bowl and stir gentty to combine. Chitt untiI ready to serve.
5 To

papaya (paw paw)

prepare the pomegranate(s), hatve verticatty, then carefully scrape out the

fleshy seeds. lt is important to remove att of the creamy yettow membrane, which
is very bitter.

6 Add the papaya just before serving. Cut in hatl scoop out and discard the seeds, then peet the flesh and cut into smatl chunks. Gentty stir these into the

fruit salad. Transfer to

a serving

bowl and scatter over the pomegranate seeds.

f.i-#d;$d %Yhtq.$Fl
This has so many uses, I suggest you make up a quantity of full strength syrup, using 5ooml water and 5oog sugar. Dissolve the sugar in the water in a heavy-based pan over a low heat, then bring to the boil and boil for 5 minutes. Cool and bottle or pour into a iar and l<eep in the fridge (for up to z weeks) to use as required. For a light stock syrup you will need to ditute it, adding about hatf the volume of water. lmpart character and colour by adding fLavourings, such as pared strips of citrus zest, mint sprigs, bruised lemon grass stall(s or a dash of liqueur, such as Malibu, Amaretto or Kahtua.

164

Fruit

roasted autumn fruits in brambte syrup

Early autumn is the time to feature flavourful, ripe orchard and hedgerow fruits in desserts. For o simple compote, pan-roast

qnd some crushed apples and pears until lightly caramelised, then macerate in syrup with poiry eau-de-vie or Calvados blackberries. Serve chilled, with cream. SERVES 4-6

r Quarter, core and stice the apples and pears, but don't peel them. Heat a large
heavy-based non-sticl< frying pan untiI you can see a faint haze rising.
z Toss the sliced

z large fresh Cox's apples z large Conference or Williams pears

4

fruits in the icing sugar, then immediatety tip them into the

tablespoons icing sugar, sifted about t5og

frying pan and spread out in a single layer. Leave for about zo seconds until the
undersides are beginning to carametise, then turn each piece to tightty colour the other sides. You only need to carametise the outside remain firm. Tip the hot fruits into a bowl. 3 Lightty crush the berries in a bowl, using a forl< and pour over the syrup. Add the poire eau-de-vie or Catvados, if using, and toss to mix. gentty, then 4 Add the berries and syrup to the caramelised apptes and pears, stir required. chitt untit and set aside to cool and altow the ftavours to mingle. Cover
5 To

cupfuI of blackberries or elderberries,

- the fruit shoutd still

z5oml Stocl< Syrup (page r5+)

z tablespoons poire eau-de-vie or Calvados (optionat) r tablespoon chopped mint (optionat)

serve, give the fruits a gentle stir, then sprinkle with chopped mint if you

[ike. Serve with cream.

F ffi q",B $T'S FS.ru -ffi#S-$TE ffi Tossing autumn fruits, such as apptes and pears, in icing sugar, then searing them in a very hot, dry pan gives them a fabulous

ffi

caramelised flavour and colour. Brief cooking is essentiat, as the

fruit slices should remain intact.

Fruit r65

pear sorbet
This

My red-skinned pears is especially good for sorbets' to round off a rich meat. t find the flavour of but red Williams and Comice pears work is the bright Forelle, which has an amazing flavour,

to serve between courses' or as a light dessert simple, refreshing sorbet is an ideal palate cleanser

favourite

well too. SERVES 4-6 6 Forette, Wittiams or Comice pears' iust riPe but stitt firm juice of r lemon

chunks' Pee[, quarter, and core the pears, then cut into

and Place in a large pan with the lemon iuice, cinnamon out the star anise. Stit the vanilta pod tengthways, scrape pod' seeds and add them to the pan with the empty to the boit' 2 Pour the stocK syrup over the pears and bring minutes' or Lower the heat and simmer gently for ro-l5

r cinnamon sticl<
4 star anise r vanitla pod
1i

z5omI Stock SYruP (Page 164)

untilthe pears soften.

Remove the whole spices and vani[[a

pod. Leave the pears to cool in the tiquid, then drain in a sieve over a bowl to save the stocl( syrup'
or food processor' graduatty 3 Pur6e the pears in a blender pur6e into a adding back the reserved stock syrup' Pour the ice cream bowt. cover and chitt thoroughty, then churn in an at once machine to a thicl<, soft frozen texture' Either serve in the or transfer to a freezer container, seat and store freezer for uP to 2 weeKs. from the freezer' atlow it to 4 lfyou are serving the sorbet Scoop soften stightty at room temperature for ro minutes' crisp with into batls and serve in smatt gtass dishes' dessert biscuits if You tike.

VARIATION

pears with Granny For an appte and pear sorbet, reptace 3 Smiths apptes' The sharpness of the apptes complements the mellow sweetness of the pears perfectty'

t
i

1bb

frull

chitted soup of pan-roasted plums

As a refreshing dessert to impress, serve this sensational ice-cold soup rather than a sorbet. For an

intense, rich colour, buy dark-skinned plums at their peak of ripeness. Serve in elegant bowls or wide
glasses lined with wafer-thin

plum

slices. A

spiral of creamy bio yogurt adds a sophisticated finishing

touch

no one will guess it's simply squeezed from a plastic bottle. (lllustrated overleaf) SERVES 4 5oog ripe dark red plums
3 tablespoons icing sugar, sifted

Halve and stone the ptums and set aside the 6 best halves

to serve. Cut the rest into quarters. Heat a wide, shallow heavy-based pan until you can see a faint haze rising. z Toss the plum quarters in the icing sugar, then

z cinnamon sticks z vanilla pods (empty pods with the

immediately tip them into the pan and spread out in

zest and star anise. Cool<, without moving, for about

seeds scraped out wilt do)

single layer, adding the cinnamon, vanilla pods, orange

zo seconds untiI beginning to carametise underneath, then

finely pared strips of zest from

1 Orange

z star anise

turn to lightty cotour the other sides.

3 Mix the stocl< syrup with rooml boiting water and the

zoomI Stocl< Syrup (page 164) r tablespoon liquid glucose zoog natural creamy bio yogurt,
to serve

tiquid gtucose, then pour into the pan. Bring to the boit, then lower the heat and simmer for rc-t5 minutes until the
plums are softened. 4 Set aside to coot, then remove the cinnamon, vanitla pods, orange zest and star anise. Tip the plums and syrup

into a blender or food processor and whiz to a smooth

pur6e. Rub this through a fine chinois or sieve into a bowl

with the bacl< of a ladle. Cover the bowl with cting fitm and
chitt the soup untiI required.
5

When ready to serve, slice the reserved plum halves as

thinty as possible and use to line the sides of4 shallow

sundae glasses or glass bowls. Carefu[[y pour in the soup. Stir the yogurt untiI smooth and runny, then trickle on top

ofthe soup and serve.

Fruit

767

{"lti:t{;rt::i'!i=i:

il}

Thesimplestfinishesareofrenthemosteffective.TocreatetheeffectitLustratedinthephotograph,putthe

yogurt into a clean (squeezabte) plastic bottle, reptace the top and squeeze a spiral ofthin yogurt on to each portion of soup.

Fru

it

769

ffi $ftffi T$ffi w. always use leaf gelatine because it softens and dissolves more easily than powdered gelatine, without 'clumping'. However you do need to ensure the liquid you are adding the leaves to is very hot (ust below boiling point) or the setting quality may be adversely affected.

#ffi

17

Fruit

melon and grape jetty

Fruit jellies are wonderfully refreshing and always popular with our guests. We serve them in small shot glasses topped with o ftoat of singte cream or yogurt. I like to experiment with new flovours - melon with grape is one of our recent successes.

fruit that is soft enough to pure, for a clean, fresh taste. A fragrant melon that is almost over-ripe can be used here. Passing the purde through a jelly bag helps to clarify the iuice, but it's not vital. SERVES 4-6
you need o

Hatve the melon and scoop out the seeds. Using a

tiny melon batler, scoop out

r [arge, well ripened Galia or

Charentais melon r tablespoon [emon juice

about 16 balts and set aside. z Scoop the remaining melon ftesh from the skin and ptace in a btender or food processor with the temon juice. Pur6e until smooth, then whiz in the stocl< syrup.

rooml Stock Syrup (page 164)

3 sheets leaf gelatine (or z teaspoons

3 For a clear jetty, pour the melon pur6e through a jetty bag suspended from a hool< or a large sieve tined with wet muslin, ptaced over a bow[. Attow the tiquid to drip through (rather than force it) to achieve a clear set. lt may take an hour or so for a[[ the iuice to drip through. You should have around 5oom[. (lf a crystat
clear set isn't your goal, sl<ip this stage.)
(Or soal< powdered 4 Soal< the getatine leaves in cold water to cover untit ftoppy. gelatine in z tablespoons cotd water untit spongy.)

powdered gelatine) 7og smalI seedless grapes

5 Heat the meton juice untilon the point of boiting. Remove the gelatine teaves from the cold water and squeeze out excess. Take the melon iuice offthe heat and stide in the gelatine (or add the softened getatine), stirring untiI dissolved.
Set aside to coo[.

6 Meanwhite, peet the grapes if you tike (but not if you're short of time). Pour a

tittte meton ielty into the base of 4-6 glasses and add a few melon balls and a few grapes. Chitt untit set. Add another layer of cooI tiquid ietly and fruit. Chirt
again untit set. Repeat the layers, chitting each to set, until you reach the top of the glasses. Chitt untit ready to serve.

ffi F'S T$ff s"ning the fruits within the jelly in layers ensures they are evenly distributed. lfyou add them altogether the fruit witl settle in a layer on

f,ffi

the top ofthe ielly.

Fruit

771

ravioli of pineapple with crushed strawberry cream

grass, then sandwiched Wafer-thin slices of fresh pineapple are macerated overnight in stock syrup infused with lemon 6 SERVES refreshing. together with balts of crushed strawberry cream. simple, and deliciously

2oog caster sugar

r lemon grass stalk, or strips of finety pared zest from r lemon r large, iust ripe pineaPPte
4oog strawberries

put the caster sugar into a pan with 4oomlwater and dissolve over a low heat, then bring to the boit and boitfor 5 minutes. stit the [emon grass in half tengthways, if using. Pour ihe syrup into a bowl and add the lemon grass or lemon zest to infuse the syrup as it coots. when cold, remove the flavourings.

zoog thicl< crdme fraiche

a

littte sifted icing sugar, to taste

2 peel the pineapple and remove the'eyes'with the tip of a potato peeter or sharp l<nife. Lay the pineappte horizontatty on a board and cut rz stices as thinty as you possibly can - a tong, serrated knife or electric carving l<nife is ideal for this. Lay the pineappte slices in the syrup as you cut them, mal<ing sure that each is we[[ coated in syrup before you add another.
longer, untit they soften. 3 cover and leave to steep overnight in the fridge, or Drain off the syrup and dab each stice with l(itchen paper to dry stightty' pur6e. Beat the crame fraiche 4 crush the strawberries with a fork to a rough untitthicl( and fotd in the crushed fruit, sweetening to taste with a tittte icing sugar. Shape the mixture into six batts, using an ice cream scoop. choose six of the smallest pineappte slices for the base and place one on each dessert plate. put a strawberry cream batt in the centre, then position a larger pineappte slice on top. lt shoutd drape over the cream - press the sides down stightty to ftute

them if necessary. That's it - serve as soon as possible.

{-}'g$rf}L4 Sitfl,#it[i.T

steepingfresh fruit in stocl<svrup with

aromatics lends a subtle ftavour and alters the texture of the fruit to give it a different character. In this recipe lemon grass provides the flavour, but other ingredients can be used, such as star anise,

vanilla. l<irsch or brandv.

772

Fruit

caramet bananas en papil[ote with chocolate sauce

lf you enioy baked bananas as a dessert then this creamy caramel version should please. Bananas are baked in paper pouches along with a rich caramel sauce. Serve the bananas in their pouches for your guests to open at the table, handing round the chocolate souce in a iug. A scoop of pistachio or roasted almond ice cream would be a perfect touch.

finishing

SERVES 4

just ripe bananas (not too soft)

r Preheat the oven to

r8ooC, Gas 4. To mal<e the carameI sauce, pour hatf the

cream into a medium saucepan and add the sugar, glucose and butter. Bring
Coramel sauce:

slowly to the boit, stirring untit smooth, then simmer for 2 minutes. Remove from

3oomI doubte cream rTog tight muscovado sugar

4 tablespoons tiquid gtucose

the heat and whisl< in the remaining cream. z Meanwhile, mal<e the chocotate sauce. Breal< up the chocotate and place in a heatproof bowt with the cream, and rum if using, over a pan of gentty simmering water. Leave untiI melted, stirring once or twice. Remove and stir untit smootn. then pour into a jug and set aside to cool. 3 For the papittotes, tear off four sheets of greaseproof paper, measuring 3ocm square. Pee[ the bananas and slit each in half lengthways. place 3 banana halves
in the centre of each paper square and drizzle over the caramel sauce. Fotd one

7og unsalted butter

Chocolate sauce:

8og darl< chocolate, at least 6o%

cocoa solids

rzoml double cream

half of the paper over the bananas to enctose them and pteat the edges together to sea[.

r-z tablespoons rum (optiona[)

4 Ptace the papitlotes on a bal<ing sheet and bal<e for B-ro minutes depending on the ripeness ofthe bananas. To checl< that they are softened, press the bananas
tightty through the papillotes with the bacl< of a fori..
5 Transfer

the papiltotes to targe serving ptates, using a fish stice. They witt l<eep

warm for at least ro minutes. warn guests to be careful oftrapped steam as they open up their parcels. Hand round the chocolate sauce to pour over the bananas.

i:.ii1 :'rr-i,i-:':,r..1..ii''i- ThisissimplytheFrenchtermforbakinginpaper.Thefoodis

sealed in the paper parce[, which puffs up and browns in the heat ofthe oven, while the food inside cool<s in the trapped steam. lt is an attractive way to present this dish, though you can simpty bal<e the banana haLves in a foi[-covered shallow dish with the caramel sauce poured over if you prefer.

174

ffi i
{'ff
.::,:::,

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ffi

pain perdu with roasted Peaches

ofwarm French toasted brioche for a fast dessert, which fragrant peaches are quickly pan-roasted, then piled on top get supplies of superb ltalian white peaches can also be served as a brunch. For a limited season, August to September, we of course, use sweet yellow peaches here, or even nectarines' Top with for me one of the great treats of the sLlmmer. You can,
Fresh,

and a dottop of mascarpone or whipped cream and eat the pain perdu with a knife

fork

SERVES

lmmerse the peaches in a bowl of boiting hot water for barely 30 seconds' then remove with a stotted spoon and peel away the sl<ins as soon as the fruit is coot enough to handte. Score each peach vertically around the middte to the stone' and twist the hatves to separate. Cut the halves into quarters or eighths depending on size. 2 Heat hatfthe butter in a heavy-based frying pan and toss in the peaches' sprinl<te with icing sugar and continue to cook over a high heat untiI nicely caramelised, about z-3 minutes. Remove the fruits to a ptate and keep warm. Wipe out the pan. (targe enough to take a stice of 3 Pour the beaten eggs into a shattow dish pan brioche). Heat hatf of the remaining butter with r tablespoon of oil in the

4 targe peaches, or 8 smaller ones

roog butter 3-4 tablespoons icing sugar, Plus extra to dust

z large free-range eggs, beaten

r-z tablespoons sunflower oil

4 stices brioche

loaf

mascarpone or whipPed doubte cream. to serve

untilthe butter stops foaming.

coat the other side, then + Quickty dip a brioche slice in the egg, turn to

lift out

golden and add to the pan. cook over a medium-high heat for 45 seconds or unti[ brown, then ftip over and cool< the other side for about 3o seconds until nicely golden brown. Remove to a warm ptate and keep warm' Repeat with the remaining brioche stices, adding more butter and oiI to the pan as necessary.
5 As soon as

they are atl cooked, ptace the brioche slices on warm serving plates and spoon the peaches on top. Add a scoop of mascarpone or whipped cream'
dust with icing sugar and serve.

'Lost bread'as it is PAilf,$ literatly translated, has been a favourite way olusing up stightty stale bread for centuries. Made with fresh brioche it is a great base for other pan-roasted fruits,
such as plums and caramelised apptes, compotes of apricots and pears' and fresh berries, such as blueberries trickted with maple syrup.

PHRffiU

Fruit

77 5

summer berry l<ebabs with lavender honey dip

lavender stalks and Here flavou(ul berries are skewered on to dried Berries and cream are the ultimate summer sensation. cream dessert that's perfect for at fresco eating. The luscious, fragrant served with a lavender infused cream, for an easy stalks' Use any thin wooden satay sticks instead ofthe dried ravender serves as a dip. For more robust skewers, use rong peach' mango or pineapple' if you like' SERVES 4 combination of summer fruits - adding cubes of z tablesPoons caster sugar 4 dried lavender heads
15Og mascarpone

lDissolvethecastersugarin4tabtespoonsofwaterinasma[[panoveralow
simmer for z minutes. Altow to heat untit clear, then add the tavender heads and coot, then strain the syrup and reserve'

r5oml whiPPing cream

2

2Beatthemascarponeandcreamtogetheruntitsofttystiff'thenfotdinthe
chitt' sugar syrup and honey. Pour into a small bowl and

teaspoons clear honeY

z5og smalt strawberries or witd strawberries (fraises de bois) rz5g rasPberries or [oganberries rz5g blueberries rz5g blacl<berries
5og redcurrants 5og white currants serve:

3Huttthestrawberries.Skewertogetherwiththeotherfruitsondriedlavender
statl<s or thin satay sticks. Chitt untiI required'

arrange the fruit kebabs around' a place the bowt of cream on a serving ptate and tiked' Sprinkte the cream with a few lavender flowers if

To

about rz long dried stall<s of lavender or thin wooden sataY sticks

tu&qd' ffi ru ffi i

ffi.ffi

F$

fl t$S

#ru S

flowers to infuse sugar syrups, creamy custards' subtly enhances even chocolate ganache - the tight florat fragrance delicious effea. ro concentrate the flavour' we than fresh flowers. Floristsspecialising in dried

rt. tut..o.t

;*;.;or;;rt;;

ur. Ori.O'*,f,l"t

picl< your own ftowers are a good source of supply' Alternatively or airing kitchen' dry warm, in a lavender and hang the stems

cupboard to drY.

t7

Fruit

,'.:,.

:,::ii

#.

pain de mie
This gorgeous French bread is a cross between a brioche and a simple white loaf.

lt is quite to easy to make, especially if you

The

have a mixer with a dough hook. The

secret is to make a yeast'sponge'first to get the yeast active.

dough can be baked

free form as a cob, or in a round tin, or shaped into 8 rolls. Fresh yeost will give the best texture and flavour, though you can
use dried yeast. Pain de Mie is best eaten within a day or two. MAKES

LARGE LOAF

15g fresh yeast

r Crumble the yeast into a medium bowl and whisl< in the

warmed untit tepid

mitl<

until dissolved.

rz5mlwhole
(zooC)

miU<,

Then beat in the rz5g plain flour until quite smooth. Cover with cting fitm and leave in a warm place (such as an airing cupboard at about zSoC) for about r hour

rz5g plain white flour (preferably organic, unbleached)

16o9 strong white

to'sponge'.
z Meanwhile, sift the strong flour and satt into a bowl and rub in the butter, then stir in the sugar. Make a well in the centre.
3 When the 'sponged'dough is ready, add to the flour welt with the cold milk and

flour (preferably

organic, unbleached)
1

teaspoon crushed Maldon salt, or fine sea salt

mix to a soft dough. Knead vigorousty for 5-ro minutes, either in a machine with
a dough hook, or by hand on a very tightly floured work surface. The dough is

zog butter, in pieces

2

ready when you can press it and leave a thumbprint.

teaspoons caster sugar

4 tablespoons cold

miik

4 Place the dough in a bow[, coverwith cting fitm and leave in a warm spot (z8oC) for about r hour until doubted in butl<.
5 Knock bacl< the dough on a clean surface and shape into a large ovat. Sprinl<le

semolina, to sprinkle oi[, to brush

the top with semotina, pressing tightty so it stays in place. Oil a heavy bal<ing sheet and sprinl<le the base tiberatty with semotina. Place the dough on the baking sheet and leave to prove until doubled in size, about 45-5o minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to zoooC, Gas 6.

6 Spray the baking sheet around the risen dough with cold water, then

immediately bal<e for ro minutes. Reduce the setting to r8ooC, Gas 4 and bal<e for a further r5-zo minutes or until golden brown and crisp, and the loaf sounds
hotlow when tapped on the base. Remove and slide on to a wire racl< to coot.

ffi&flru WW WWW WffiL|*ffi shape the dough into 8 balls, rotlthe tops back and forth a few times to smooth, then press them into a bowl containing some semolina. Place on a baking sheet lined with baking parchment and cover loosely with cLing fitm. Leave to prove until doubled in size, then bake at zoooC, Gas 6 for just rz minutes.

Yffi&,SY tryou cannot obJain rresh yeast, I recommend ordinary dried active yeast here (rather than fast-action). Blend l/. teaspoons with a little of the tepid mill< and z tablespoons of the soft flour. Wait for a few minutes untiLthe mixture begins to bubble, then mix in the remaining tepid milk and soft ftour. Continue as above.
B-JSgffi
ffi3ffi g ffi Kft

ffi

l8O

Ftour: breads. oastries and cakes

sun -d ried tomato fougasse

-cugasse is the great ProvenEal rich flat bread, originally an orange-scented sweet dough, but now more often made with a trvoury twist. This version, flavoured with sun-dried tomatoes ond herbs, is my favourite especially eaten aL fresco on a summer evening' To give the dough a head start, you need to make a yeast 'sponge'. (lllustrated overleaf) MAKES z ""0rm

r To mal<e the 'sponge', place r4og of the flour in a [arge bowl and mix in

teaspoons ofthe yeast. Heat rzoml ofthe water untit tepid (zo"c), add to the iLour and beat for r-z minutes untitsmooth. cover with cting fitm and [eave in a
',varm place (such as an airing cupboard) for about

rl

42og strong white flour (preferabty

organic, unbleached), plus extra to dust

79 sachet fast-action dried yeast

r/,hours to ,sponge,.

z Now heat the remaining r8omI water untit tepid and beat into the ,sponged' mixture with the rest of the strong ftour, the rye ftour, salt, remaining yeast and
r tablespoon of the otive oit. Mix thoroughly.
3 Turn

3ooml bottled sti[[ spring water 8og rye flour

r'l

teaspoons crushed Maldon satt

the dough on to a tightty floured surface and r<nead firmry for about 5 minutes, untilyou have a smooth, fairty soft dough. Transfer to a ctean bowl,

or fine sea salt

6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oit

cover with cting fitm and leave to rise in a warm ptace (at about

zg.c) for
Filling: rz5g semi-soft sun-dried tomatoes
or a z8og jar, drained
4 tablespoons chopped chives, or

3o minutes or so, until it begins to rise. 4 Meanwhile, pat the sun-dried tomatoes dry with l<itchen paper if necessary and cut into smalI bite'sized pieces. Knocl< the risen dough bacl< on a tightty flourec surface. Using a rolting pin, rotl out to a 4ocm square. scatter the tomato pieces and chives or oregano over the dough.
5 Fotd the sides into the middte, then fold the bottom

1-2 teaspoons dried oregano

third up to the centre and

the top third over that

- to give a rectangle, about

20x73cm. Ro[ (or putt and pat)

the dough out again to a square, fold and roll one more time. 6 Divide the dough in hatf and shape each piece into a rog. r(eep one coverec while you roll out the other to an ova[, about z5-3ocm long and ro-rzcm wide.
7 Lift the dough on to a bal<ing sheet [ined with bal<ing parchment and slash the

top quite deeply at an angle, either side of the middte, using a very sharp l<nife. Repeat to mal<e another fougasse with the remaining dough.

8 Brush with a tittte more otive oiI and cover toosety with cting film. Leave in a
warm ptace untit doubted in size, about 3o minutes. 9 Meanwhile, preheat the oven ro zzooc, Gas 7. spray the bal<ing sheets around each fougasse with water, then immediatety bal<e for about r5 minutes until browned and crisp, swapping the bal<ing sheets hatfway through cool<ing. Brusn the fougasse tiberatty with the remaining otive oil as thev cool. vARlATl0N scatter roog chopped pitted blacl< or green olives and r tablespoon snipped rosemary over the rotled-out dough, instead of sun-dried tomatoes ano chives. sprinl<te the top with crushed Maldon sea salt ftal<es just before bal<ing.

Flour: breads. pastries and cajres 181

sourdough
apple iuice, yogurt and For this clqssic sourdough, you need to make a yeast starter, a good 4-5 days ahead. Organic A warm dry place, like an currants introduce natural yeasts that feed on the flours and bubble into tivety, tasty ferments.

process' MAKES z OR 3 LOAVES airing cupboard or draught-free spot in a warm kitchen, helps the fermentation
Starter:
125g strong ftour (preferably organic,

unbleached)
1259 rye flour, plus up to r5og extra

the starter, place both ftours in a plastic bowl with the appte iuice, yogurt and currants. Beat wetl for about 5 minutes to a smooth, thicl< batter, then sprinkte the top tightty with rye ftour. cover and leave in a warm place (such as
For

an airing cupboard at about z8oC) for z4 hours.

to sprinl<le
rTomI organic (unfittered) apple iuice

z Lightty beat the starter and sprinkte again with rye flour. cover and store as above. Repeat this process for a total of 5 days by which time you should have
tivety fermenting starter, about 6oo9. You need to

r5og organic low-fat live bio yogurt

5og organic currants, washed and

use half. (Put the other half in a

dried

clean ptastic container and refrigerate or freeze for another batch of sourdough') a bow[, add the tepid water 3 For the bread, crumble the fresh yeast, if using, into and stir brisl<ty to dissolve. lf using dried yeast, mix with the water and z pinches of caster sugar and leave for about 10 minutes until it begins to 'sponge.' Mix the yeast tiquid with the rye starter and hatf the white flour. Cover loosely

Breod:

rog fresh yeast, or z teaspoons dried

active yeast and a little caster sugar zoomI tepid spring water (zooC)

3oog rye starter (from above) 3Z5g strong white flour (preferably organic, unbleached)
125g strong wholemeaI

with cting fitm and leave in a warm place untitthe mixtures bubbtes' about:. hour. white flour with the satt in a warm 5 combine the whotemeat, rye and remaining juice. Mix with your large mixing bowt. Add the bubbting yeast dough and apple
hands untit the dough no longer feets sticl<y, then turn out on to a clean surface. 6 l(nead wett, onty dusting the surface very tightty with ftour if necessary - as you
l<nead, the dough witt become smooth and less sticl<y. The dough is ready when

flour

5og rye flour z teaspoons Matdon salt, finelY crushed or fine sea satt

you can press it and teave a thumbprint. Ptace in a tightty oited bowl, cover with cting fitm and leave in a warm place for about I hour until doubled in size.
minutes, then return to the 7 Knock bacl< the dough, knead again for about 3 bow[, cover and leave to prove for another hour.

roomI organic (unfittered) appte iuice extra white flour and semolina, to dust sunflower oit, to oil

g Knockthe dough bacl<again and divide into z or3 equa[ pieces. Ro[tthese into batons, 25-3ocm tong. oita large non-stick heavy bal<ing sheet and dust with semolina. Ptace the batons wetl apart on this and make 4 or 5 diagonat stashes along each one with a razor-sharp knife. Sprinl<te tightty with white flour and leave in a warm spot untit risen by about a third. Meanwhite, preheat the oven to
z5ooC, Gas 9 and boit the kettte.

g put a roasting tin, hatf-fitted with boiting water on a lower oven shetf. Ptace the bal<ing sheet hotding the batons on a higher shetf and bal<e for 5 minutes. Then turn the temperature down to zoooC, Gas 6 and cool< for another z5-30 minutes untitthe crust is mid-brown in colour and the bread sounds holtow when tapped underneath. CooI on a wire
racl<.

784

Flour: breads, pastries and cakes

,,i-i

:il:.
?i"':t

.r.t1

#i;;1',,t!

3r';
4..

,''i

i,.:li:,

F\Ft#i-fl.$$.il$:q&{i*1

.:::i.-ji.:::--:.i.-.:i-,:ii,S.S"E rr.ririsdericiousservedwithcheese.Mal<eupthebasicsourdoughrorheendor

stage 6. Roll out to a large rectangle, about rcm thicl<, and scatter eveniy almost to the edges with a medium Bramley apple, peeled, cored and cut into r.5cm chunks. FoLd the sides into the middle, then puil the top doivn a thrrd and the bottom up and over that, to make a rectangle. Rotl and fotd once more, then cover and leave to rise again for about r hour. Co:tinue from stage 8.

buckwheat btinis
Large wafer-thin crpes made with buckwheat flour are popular across northern France. For smaller thicker blinis, the buckwheat batter is fermented with a little yeast to lighten and flavour it, then cooked in small cast-iron blini pans. If you

haven't any ofthese pans, then cook spoonfuls of batter in a large heavy-based frying pan, like drop scones. The blinis won't be as neatly rounded, but the flavour and texture will be just as good. Soured cream and caviar is the traditional topping, but blinis make good starters with less expensive toppings (see below). Allow two per person. SERVES 6 AS A STARTER

Put the tepid mitk into a jug, crumble in the fresh yeast and stir briskty

until

roomI milk, heated until tepid r5g fresh yeast (or fast-action dried
yeast, see below) 55g strong ptain flour 45g buckwheat flour

dissolved.

z Mix the two ftours and salt together in a large bow[, standing on a damp ctoth to hotd it steady. Make a well in the centre and add the egg yotl< and hatf of the
yeast mixture. Beat to a thick batter with a whisk, gradually adding the rest of the yeasty milk and the beer. 3 Cover with cting film and leave in a warm spot for about an hour or until bubbtes start to appear and the mixture looks as if it is expanding. Alternativety, for a stow rise, leave the batter in the fridge; it witt take about 4 hours to bubbte. 4 Whisk the egg whites in a ctean bow[ to soft peal<s, then whisk in the sugar. Beat a spoonfuI of the whisl<ed egg whites into the btini batter to loosen it, then

/,teaspoon fine sea salt

r free-range egg yolk
z tabtespoons beer z free-range egg whites
2

teaspoons sugar

butter, to fry

fotd in the remaining whites, using a spatula.

5 Tal<e one or

two cast-iron blini pans, about 8cm in diameter. Melt a l<nob of

a

butter in each pan and heat until you can feeI a strong heat rising. Spoon

tadtefutof batter into each pan and cool< for 7-Ty2minuIes until the surface is
covered with tiny bubbles and no longer lool<s wet on the surface, and the sides
lool< cooked. Loosen

the edges with a palette l<nife, checl< that the underside is

brown, then flip over and cool< for a minute on the other side. 6 Stacl< the btinis in a fotded clean tea towel to l<eep them warm white you cool<

the rest; you shoutd have sufficient batter to make rz btinis. Serve warm, with your preferred toppings (see betow).

T"#FPfrffiffi".% S.ru.

blinis warm, topped with a doltop of thick soured cream or crdme fraiche and smoked salmon scrunched into rosettes, or folded Parma ham. Or top with lemon mayonnaise and flaked gritled salmon. For an unusual topping, spoon on a LittLe fig jam and top with slices of Duck'Bresaola' (page 6o). The shalLot and cep topping (from
Caramelised Cep Tarts, page r88) is an ideaI vegetarian option.

Flour: breads, pastries and cal<es 187

caramelised cep tarts

purde, then topped with caramelised ceps and Wafer-thin puff pastry discs are covered with a layer of creamy onion stock' parmesan shavings. This recipe is suitable for vegetarians if you omit the bacon and use white wine rather than chicken
SERVES 4 AS A STARTER oR LIGHT MEAL

35og Puff Pastry (Page r9o) 5og butter z tablespoons olive oil

Rot[ out the pastry to the thicl<ness of a

fr

coin and cut out four rzcm discs,

using a smatl saucer as a guide. Pricl< the dough and place on a heavy non-stick 6. baking sheet. Rest in the refrigerator white you heat the oven to zoooc, Gas

r large Spanish onion, thinty sticed

z5g smol<ed bacon or Pancetta

z Meanwhite, make the onion pure. Heat hatf the butter and r tablespoon olive oil in a saucepan. Add the onion, with the bacon trimmings if using, and saut6
gentty for up to 15 minutes untiI softened but not co[oured, stirring often. and cool( Remove the bacon pieces. stir in the stock or wine and cream. season food for another few minutes untiI reduced right down' Transfer to a blender or processor and whiz untit smooth and creamy' Set aside' parchment and place another flat heavy 3 cover the pastry discs with bal<ing and bal<ing sheet on top. Bal<e for rz minutes, then remove the top bal<ing sheet parchment. Return the pastry discs to the oven for up to 3 minutes untiI gotden brown and crisp. Remove and carefutty transfer to a wire rack' ceps Heat the remaining butter and otive oit in a saut6 pan, then add the sliced the and saut6 untiI nicety caramelised, about 5 minutes. Add the shallots, with

trimmings (optionat)
3

tablespoons chicl<en stock or white wine

z tablespoons double cream z5og fresh ceps, cleaned and thintY sticed z shallots, finely choPPed

r thyme sPrig
sea salt and freshlY ground blacl<

pepper

z5g Parmesan cheese, Pared into

shavings, to serve

then leaves from the thyme sprig, and seasoning. cook for a further 2-3 minutes'
remove from the heat. pur6e and pastry discs. spread the onion pur6e thicl<ty 5 Lightty warm the onion over the pastry and arrange the caramelised ceps on top. scatter over the
Parmesan shavings and serve warm.

VARIATION

when fresh ceps are not in season, or simpty for a cheaper option, use thinly pack of sticed, large portobetto mushrooms and enhance the ftavour with a rog dried porcini mushrooms. Soal< the dried mushrooms in hot water for ro minutes, be then drain, chop and fry with the fresh mushrooms. The soal<ing liquor can strained and used instead of the stock or wine'

r88

Flour: breads, pastries and cakes

I love the

light crispness of puff pastry but not al[ those deep puffy layers. To obtain wafer-thin flat pastry bases, I bal<e puft pastry discs between two heavy baking sheets. -his impedes rising
and produces meLt-in"the-mouth crisp pastry - the perfect foil for a caramelised shaltot ard cep topping.

puff pastry
melt'in-the-mouth texture' lf a Homemade puff pastry certainly has a richer flavour than ready'made puff, and a wonderful half' Make up a batch and recipe calls for z5og puff pastry use a quarter ofthis recipe; for 35og use a third, for 5oog use divide into portions, freezing any you don't need to use now' MAKES r'zkg
5oog butter, cut into chunks 5oog plain flour 1f teaspoon fine sea salt

Divide the butter into 45og and 5og portions. set aside 5og of the ftour' sift the rest of the ftour with the salt into a bowl and rub in the 5og of the butter untiI the mixture lool<s [ike fine breadcrumbs. This can be done in a food processor. z Add the vinegar and tricl(te in the ice-cotd water, mixing with a table l<nife untit it comes together as a smooth dough. You may not need a[[ the water, or you may need a tittte more. This depends on the flour. of butter. This is best 3 Now, mix the remaining 5og flour into the remaining 45og large sheet of cting to a done using an electric mixer. spoon this mixture out on

l teaspoon white

wine vinegar

about 3oomI ice-cotd water

fitm and shape into a rectangle, 74x2ocm. wrap well in cting fitm and chitt untit firm. wrap and chitt the dough at the same time - both for around zo minutes.
z5 x35cm rectangle - twice 4 On a tightty ftoured surface, rolt out the dough to a the size ofthe butter. Mal<e sure the edges and corners are straight and neat.

This is one ofthe secrets ofsuccess. lfnecessary, tease the dough into shape. of the rotted dough and fotd 5 ptace the chitted butter rectangle on the longend the dough in two to comptetely enctose the butter. Press the edges ofthe dough

together to seat in the butter. 6 Rott out the dough in one direction only until it is three times the tength, making sure none ofthe butter breaks through.
down to the centre' then folding 7 Fotd the dough in three, bringing the top third the bottom third on top. Give the dough a quarter turn and roll it out again in one
i;. {'{ il il' S 5,r',fli{- ffi Li't" p,n pastry rises best when the fat has been incorporated into the flour dough in very fine, even laYers. For this reason it is important to always the edges ofthe dough are as straight as Possible when rolting and folding. Simpty pat or pull the dough into line. To keeP tabs on the number of rollings after each folding, press a fingertiP into the
mal<e sure

direction, tightty dusting with ftour as necessary. Fold as before, l<eeping those edges neat, then wrap in cting film and chitt for another zo minutes, or longer in
warm weather.

g Unwrap with the fotd to the same side as before and roll out for
portions as dictated by your recipe.

third time.

Fotd as before, that is top to centre, then bottom over. Finatly, divide into

corner of the dough to corresPond

with the number of rollings.

t9O

Ftour: breads, pastries and cal<es

pite SUCree
This is one of the standard pastries we use for tarts. Make up a big batch and divide into 3 or 4 portions. Wrap portions you

don't need to use immediately in freezer film and freeze. For best results, moke this pastry in an electric mixer, then knead lightly by hand. MAKES ABOUT rkg

Using an electric mixer, beat the butter and sugar together untilsmooth and

z5og butter, softened to room temperature

18og caster sugar

creamy, but not ftuffy. Sptit open the vanilla pods, scrape out the seeds and add these to the mixture. z With the machine running on slow speed, graduatty add the eggs. Stop the machine once or twice and scrape down the sides. 3 Sift the ftour and salt together. With the machine on its lowest speed, add the

3-4 vanilla pods z large free-range eggs, beaten

5oog plain flour

flour in 3 or 4 stages. As soon as the mixture comes together as a crumbly

dough, stop the machine. 4 Gather the dough and ptace on a tightty floured surface. Briefty l<nead it with your hands until smooth; don't over-worl< it. Divide into 3 or 4 batches and wrap in cling film. Leave to rest in the refrigerator for 3o minutes before rolling out, freezing any portions you don't need now for later use. 5 Before rolling out, l<nead the pastry again very tightty. This hetps to prevent it
cracl<ing as you roll it.

teaspoon fine sea salt

I i"-,.

-'./:;'

lf you divide the

pdte sucr6e dough into 3 equal portions, each ofthese portions wilL be sufficient to line a 27-23 cm

taft

tin. Double wrap in freezer film to

freeze and give the dough a tight kneading after thawing.

Flour: breads, pastries and cal<es 797

hazelnut sablds
crEme brAEes on them and use them to Thin, light crisp biscuits like these have many applications in our desserts. We sit to a week in an airtight tin' or you can accompany ice creams, roasted fruits and fruit compotes. They witl keep crisp for up you need them. That is, of course, if you can resist nibbling your way through the freeze them and remove a few at a time as

entire batch, as they are seriously more-tsh' MAKES zo-24

roog unsalted butter, softened

45g icing sugar, sifted

In a bowt, beat together the butter, icing sugar and salt untit tight and ftuffy.

stir

teaspoon fine sea salt

your in the nuts and flour and mix to a smooth soft dough, l<neading gently with preheat the Meanwhile, hands. wrap in cting fitm and chitt for about 3o minutes.
oven to r8ooC, Gas 4.

z5g toasted choPPed hazelnuts

rz5g plain flour

z Tear off two sheets of bal<ing parchment, each the size of a heavy bal<ing sheet. Ptace the dough between the parchment sheets and rotl out to a rcm thicl<ness. Hotding the edges of the paper, lift on to the bal<ing sheet and place a second heavy bal<ing sheet on top, so that the dough is sandwiched between both parchment and bal<ing sheets. and tift off the top 3 Bal<e for 5 minutes, then remove to a heatproof surface ptace, roll the half-baked in bal<ing sheet. with the top baking parchment stitt dough as thinty as you can, then remove the parchment. Return to the oven and
bal<e

for another 5 minutes or untiI pale golden.

cut out as many 4 Remove from the oven and, using a 5-6cm cutter, immediatety rounds as you can white the dough is stilt soft. using a palette l<nife, tift these on to a wire tray to cooI and crisp. lf the dough starts to harden before you finish

cutting, return to the oven for a minute or so to soften. When coot, store the biscuits in an airtight tin.

f92

Ftour: breads, pastries and cakes

banana and rum tatins

This is one of the recipes that earned my Head Chef at Claridges, Mark Sargeant (or Sarge as he is better known), the Chef

of

the Year zooz award. Serve with cream, crEme fraiche, or vanilla or rum and raisin ice cream. (lllustrated overleaf) SERVES 4

Have ready a large cast-iron frying pan (suitable for use in the oven) or a Swiss

8og caster sugar 8og butter, in small pieces

z tablespoons darl< rum

rotl tin. Put the sugar into a heavy-based saucepan and heat very gently untiI it metts. (You may find it easier if you first saturate the sugar with z tablespoons cold water.) z Add the butter and melt over a medium heat, shal<ing the pan to blend the

3oog Puff Pastry (page r9o) or trimmings (see betow) z large, stightty unripe bananas serve:

butter with the sugar. BoiI to a medium darl< brown carame[, but do not a[low it to burn. lmmediatety tal<e off the heat and stir in the rum - it witt splutter. 3 Pour the caramel into the cast-iron pan or Swiss roll tin and spread with the
bacl< of a spoon

To

to leveI and cover an area that wil[ tal<e the 4 banana halves; it

Vanitta Fans (page r58) ice cream, cream or cr6me fraiche Dried Banana Slices (page 16z,

doesn't need to reach the sides. Cool untiI set. 4 lf using fresh 'virgin'pastry, rotI out on a tightty ftoured surface to the thicl<ness
of a

fr

coin, then scrunch into a ba[[ and l<nead lightty untit smooth. Roll out

optionat) icing sugar, to dust (optional)

again, this time more thinty than before, or roll out trimmings in the same way. 5 Peel each banana, stice in half tengthways, and place rounded-side down on

the pastry. Cut the pastry around the bananas, leaving a rcm border atl round, ro
mal<e hatf-moon shapes. Transfer

the bananas to a board, cut-side down, anci

drape the pastry crescents over them. Press the pastry to the sides ofthe bananas and trim away any excess, then ptace cut-side down on the set caramet.
Rest in the fridge for at least 3o minutes. Preheat the oven to zoooC, Gas 6.

6 When ready to serve, place the tin on a heavy bal<ing sheet and cool< in ihe oven for about rz-r5 minutes untitthe pastry is tight gotden brown and crisp.
Leave to stand for a minute or so, then slide a palette l<nife under each banana

and carefully tift and ftip over on to a warmed ptate. Trickle over the carameliseo
pan juices and top with a vanilla fan. Serve with a scoop of ice cream ptaced on a

tF{ ffif,-ffi "$ffiflffiffiY

we use

dried banana slice for optimum effect, or accompany with cream or crdme fraiche. Dust tightty with icing sugar to serve.

lot of puff pastry and have plenty of trimmings from the first rolting, or 'seconds' as we call them. These trimmings are not discarded, but designated for a different role. We gather them together, moutd them gently into rectangles, then wrap and chill to rest. These 'seconds' cook to tight, crisp pastry that doesn't rise too
much

perfect for the above tatins

and our ftat tart bases.

flour: breads, pastries and cal<es 193

{.:

i:ii-:lrtiii

:!iLil"l1iil'E-Theingredientsforthisdessertaresimpte-thesecrettiesinthetechnique.

youwiLt needpuff

pastry that crisps but doesn't rise too much, and the tatins need to be bal<ed just before serving.

Flour: breads, pastries and

cakes 195

croustade of aPPle and coconut

in the kitchens of of the great and good top chefs' I had a wonderful time Before my formative period in the Paris kitchens suppliers and learnt to be when it snowed hard' we were cut off from our the Hotel Diva, located in a ski resort above Nice.

resourcefulwithdrystores.Thiscomforting,easydessertWascreatedinthosedays,serveitwithCremeAnglaise(pagery)'
ideally infused with a few mint leaves' SERVES 6
(Page r9r) 35og Pate 5ucr6e

surface and use to line a zrcm flan Rolt out the pastry thinty on a tightty ftoured

roog sultanas
6 Granny Smiths aPPles

tin,thatisatleastz.5cmdeep'Pressthepastrywettintothesidesandleave

roog butter
5og demerara sugar finety grated zest of r orange

base, tine with greaseproof paper about rcm overhanging the top edge. Pricl< the for 3o minutes' or foit and bal<ing beans, then rest in the fridge

zMeanwhite,preheattheoventozoooC,Gas6.Puithesuttanasinabow[,cover

finely grated zest of r lemon

3 tablesPoons desiccated coconut,

pat dry with kitchen paper' with boiting water and leave for 15 minutes' Drain and hatfthe core the apptes, then cut into r'5cm cubes' Heat

tightty toasted about toog filo PastrY sheets icing sugar, to dust

3 Peel, quarter and sprinl<te the sugar over them' butter in a targe frying pan, toss in the apptes and are iust tender and tightty Cool<, stirring occasionatly, untitthe apptes

caramelised,about:.zminutes.Removefromtheheatandstirinthegrated
citrus zests, coconut and sultanas' Set aside'
sheet and bake 'btind'for about r5 minutes' 4 Ptace the ftan tin on a bal<ing

Removethepaperorfoitandbeansandreturntheflancasetotheovenfor
5 minutes

pastry untiI to cook the base. with a sharp knife, trim the overhanging

neatty level with the top of the tin' to brush into the ftan case' Mett the remaining butter and use 5 Spoon the apptes each one tike a crumpted tissue' each fito sheet tightty on both sides, scrunching sugar' of the apples to cover them, then dust with icing
Ptace on top the fito topping is crisp and 6 Bal<e the ftan for another rz-r5 minutes untit to serve' golden brown. Dust with a little more icing sugar

VARIATION
For a

12og caster sugar' 12og different topping, omit the fito' Beat together

desiccatedcoconutandzeggs.Spoonthisontopoftheapplesandbakefor
turns golden brown' rz-r5 minutes untitthe topping puffs up stightty and

tg6

Ftour: breads, pastries and caKes

plum and almond tart

family size version of the little plum tarts we feature on our dessert menus is ideal for a Sundav lunch. lt is best served freshly baked and warm. As a variation, you could use mi-cuit prunes instead of plums. SERVES 6-8
This

Rol[ out the pastry on a tightly floured surface to the thicl<ness of a

fr

coin and

5oog Pite Sucr6e (page r9r)

4 large, ripe dark red plums

use to [ine a25cm flan tin, that is at least z.5cm deep with a removable base. Press the pastry wetl into the sides and leave about rcm overhanging the top

rz59 unsatted butter, softened to

room temperature

edge. Pricl< the base, line with greaseproof paper or foit and bal<ing beans, then rest in the fridge for zo minutes. 2 Preheat the oven to zoooc, Gas 5. ptace the tart tin on a heavy bal<ing sheet and bal<e blind for r5 minutes. Remove the paper or foit and beans and return the flan case to the oven for 5 minutes to cool< the base. Using a sharp l<nife, trim the overhanging pastry untiI neatly tevel with the top of the tin. set aside to cool

rz59 ground almonds

1259 caster sugar

z5g plain flour

1

teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)

while you mal<e the fitting, and lower the oven setting to r5ooC, Gas z. 3 For the fitting, hatve the plums, remove the stones, then cut each hatf into 4 wedges. Put the butter, ground almonds, sugar, ftour, cinnamon if using, and
egg in a food processor and whiz to a smooth, creamy batter. spoon into the ftan tin and [eve[ the surface. Nestte the plum wedges into the mixture, placing them
sl<in-side up.

r large free-range egg 3-4 tablespoons apricot or plum jam

gtaze (see below)

4 Bal<e the flan for 3o-35 minutes untiI risen, firm and golden brown. Remove
from the oven and brush with the lam gtaze white stitl warm. Leave to coot stightty in the tin, then unmoutd and slide on to a flat ptate. serve warm, cut into wedges.
VARIATION

Instead of the plums, use 6-8 French mi-cuit Agen prunes for the fitting. First
soal<

them in hot Earl Grey tea to cover for about z-3 hours, then drain, stone if necessary, and cut the prunes into quarters. place in a small bowl and sprinl<le

with z-3 tablespoons Armagnac or cognac. Leave to macerate overnight, then

drain and use in the same way as the ptum wedges.

e\4tq'" \ ':. !1i-L t-: This gives a tempting, glossy sheen to a home baked tart. Simpty warm about 4 tablespoons apricot or plum jam in a small pan with t-z tablespoons water and a squeeze of lemon
f

- ,i- n& a'

juice untiI the jam melts. Heat until bubbling, stir briefty, then pass through a sieve, rubbing gently with the bacl( of a wooden spoon. We mal<e up a large batch of this glaze and store it in a screwtopped jar in the fridge ready to use.

Flour: breads, pastries and cal<es 197

passion fruit and orange tart

fruity taste, I first boil the passion fruit juice and orange to reduce and concentrate the flavour. A thin whisper of dork chocolate lines the tart case, adding a hint of contrasting flavour; it also helps to prevent the creamy passion fruit filling softening the pastry. Serve cut into wedges, with a
scoop of vanilla ice cream if you like. SERVES 6-8
This tart is an elegant variation of the classic French tarte au citron. For an intensely

Hatve the passion fruit, scoop

outthe putp into

a saucepan and add the orange

a

6 ripe, wrinl<[ed passion fruits 35omI fresh orange juice

luice. Bring to the boiI and boit until reduced by hatf. Pass through a sieve into jug, rubbing with the bacl< of a wooden spoon to extract the juice from the
passion fruit seeds. You should have around z5om[; set aside to coo[.

35og Pdte Sucr6e (page r9r) 4og darl< chocolate

25og caster sugar

z Rol[ out the pastry as thinty as possible, ideatty to a 3mm thicl<ness, on a tightty ftoured surface. Lift it on the rolling pin into a 2r-22cm ftan tin that is about zcm deep with a removabte base. Press the pastry well into the sides and
leave about rcm overhanging the top edge. Don't worry if the pastry cracl<s as

zoomI double cream

6 medium free-range eggs

you press it in, simpty pinch the dough together to mend the cracks. Pricl< the
base, line with greaseproof paper or foil and bal<ing beans, then rest in the fridge

for zo minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to zoooC, Gas 6.

3 Stand the ftan tin on a bal<ing sheet and bal<e blind for r5 minutes. Remove the

paper or foit and beans and return the flan case to the oven for 5 minutes untiI the base is pate golden and crisp. Using a sharp l<nife, carefulty trim the overhanging pastry until neatly [eve[ with the top ofthe tin. Set aside to cool and lower the oven setting to r5ooC, Gas z. 4 Meanwhile, break up the chocotate and mett in a small heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water, or in the microwave on medium for about z minutes. Allow the chocolate to cooI until tepid, but stil[ runny. 5 Using a pastry brush, spread the chocolate eventy and thinly over the base and
up the sides of the pastry case, ideally white the pastry is stitt stightty warm.

Attow to coot and set.

6 For the fitting, beat the reduced fruit juice, sugar, cream and eggs together in bowl untiI smooth, then strain through a sieve into a lug. Stand the flan tin on a bal<ingsheet and place on the middle shetf of the oven, puttingthe shelf out as
far as it is safe to do. Pour the fitting into the case until it reaches the top. Carefutty push the oven shelf and tart bacl< into the oven and bake for 35-4o

flffi#f,'.S 5 ;fif,ffiH'"fl

ro,u

minutes until the top forms a light crust and appears to be tightty set, although it
may stitt be stightty soft in the centre.
7 Carefutty remove the

tart from the oven and a[[ow to cool. The fitting witt

continue to firm up as it cools. Chitt untit ready to serve, then carefully unmould and cut into wedges.

light caramelised finish, dust the chiLted tart with a light even layer of sifted icing sugar, then immediately caramelise by waving a cook's blowtorch over the surface.

Florr: breads, pastries and cal<es 199

perfect scones
so much better and it takes t despair that so many people have only ever tosted mass produced scones. Homemade ones are than is usual very little time to mix the dough, pat it out, shape and bake. I find that baking scones at a lower temperature

and warm from the ensures that they remain soft on the outside, yet still rise beautifully. Scones ore always best eaten fresh MAKES 8-ro oven, spilt and buttered - with or without clotted cream and homemade strowberry iam.
z5og self-raising flour
1

r Preheat the oven to r8ooc, Gas 4. Line

a bal<ing sheet

with bal<ing parchment.

teaspoon baking Powder good pinch offine sea salt

45g unsalted butter, softened r tablespoon caster sugar, plus extra

z sift the ftour, baking powder and salt together into a large bowt. Add the butter in tittte pieces and rub it in using the tips of your fingers and tifting the flour up
high so you aerate it. when the butter is incorporated the mixture should look

to dust
5og sultanas

like fine breadcrumbs. Stir in the caster sugar, then the suttanas. z In another bowt, beat the egg with the mitl<. Pour about three quarters into the flour mixture and quicl<ty mix together with a [arge table l<nife, adding extra egg and mill< mix as necessary to give a soft but not sticl<y dough. Do not over-mix

r large free-range egg

roomI ice-cold milk, plus extra to glaze

- the quicl<er

and tighter the mixing the higher your scones will rise'

gentty roll with a rolting 3 Tip the dough on to a tightty ftoured surface and very
pin or pat out with your fingers to a 2-2.5cm thicl<ness. Using a 6cm cutter, press

out as many rounds as you can. Gentty re-shape and tightty roll the trimmings to
cut out a couple more rounds if you can'

4 Place the rounds on the tined baking sheet, brush the tops with mitl< and sprinl<te tightty with extra sugar. Bake for zo-25 minutes untiI risen and gotden brown. To check that the scones are ready, lightty squeeze the sides of one - the
dough shoutd be springy. stide off on to a wire rack and coot. Eat the scones

within an hour or so of bal<ing, while stilt warm'

VARIATIONS

Omit the sultanas and add r teaspoon ground cinnamon or mixed spice to the ftour. Or, for savoury scones, omit the sugar and sultanas, mix in 5og finety grated mature Cheddar or Parmesan and

teaspoon powdered Engtish mustard

and sprinkte the tops with a tittle more grated cheese before baking.

ffffiffi g4'S

Tfr ffi ro save time, simply pat the dough out to a 2.5cm thick square with your hands, keeping the edges straight, then cut into squares. Alternatively, pat the dough into a 2.5cm thicl< round and score the top into 8 wedges. Bake for about
z5 minutes, then cut on cooling.

2OO

Flour: breads, pastries and cal(es

ry
t
,,,n:,,.r.,

lemon and vanitta kugethopf

ways to suit Similar to a classic Genoese sponge, this is a truly nulti-purpose cake mixture, which can be used in a variety of to slice and fill deep tin a round different occasions. you can bake it in a kugelhopf mould (a fluted tin with a funnel centre) or

with whipped crEme fraiche. Or, to serve as a dessert, bake the mixture in a Swiss roll tin and cut out small rounds to sandwich with crushed fruits and whipped cream. Alternatively, you can bake it in Madeleine trays or bun tins. Use an electric
mixer with a whisk attachment if you have one. SERVES ro

4 large unwaxed lemons, scrubbed roog butter, ptus rog extra to grease tin

Finety grate the zest from the lemons and set aside. Melt att the butter untit just

runny and cool untiI tepid. Sift together the ftour and baking powder'

3zog plain flour, plus extra to dust

2

z Use r tablespoon of the melted butter to grease a zzcm l<ugelhopf ring mould, then dust tiberatty with ftour and tap out the excess. Preheat the oven to r6ooc,
ud5 J. pod open' 3 Put the eggs and sugar into an etectric mixer bowl. Stit the vanilla scrape out the seeds using the tip of a sma[[ sharp knife, and add them to the sugar. Beat, using a whisk attachment, until pale gotden and thicl< enough to leave a traitwhen the beaters are [ifted. This may tal<e up to ro minutes'

teaspoons bal<ing Powder

5 medium free-range eggs

35og caster sugar r vanilla pod

r5omI singte cream serve:

To

4 Remove the bowt from the mixer and gentty fotd in the ftour and lemon zest, using a large metal spoon. Pour the cream and runny butter down the sides of the bowt and, using a figure,of-eight motion gentty incorporate into the mixture, retaining as much of the volume as possible.
bake in the centre of 5 Gentty scoop the mixture into the prepared cal<e tin and the oven for 5o minutes to t hour, or untit a skewer inserted in the middle comes

icing sugar, to dust

summer berries, such as

strawberries and raspberries whipped cream

out clean. The top shoutd be springy when pressed and the cal<e witl have started to come away very stightty from the edge of the tin. 6 Invert on to a wire racl< and leave to coolwith the tin over the cal<e for ro minutes, then remove the tin and leave to cool completety. Dust with sifted
icing sugar and serve in thin wedges, with summer berries and whipped cream.

VARIATIONS Bake the mixture in a lined and greased deep z5cm round cal<e tin for 5o-6o

flfi"{ffifl-S ffiffiilffiffiT

Li'

minutes. After cooting, sptit and fitt with cream and crushed fruits, then dust with icing sugar to serve. Atternatively, bal<e the mixture in a shattow Swiss rotl tin for

cake has a rich buttery flavour with a light sponge texture, achieved bY

whisking eggs and sugar vigorously to incorporate as much air as possible. then carefutly folding in melted runny butter and cream to keep the mixture light.

about zo minutes. After cooling, trim the edges and cut out rounds. sandwich together with whipped cream ftavoured with stocl< Syrup infused with lemon
grass (page 164) and crushed raspberries'

2O2

Flourr breads, pastries and cakes

dark, rich carrot cake

This wonderfully moist cake from the connaught repertoire takes me back to my childhood and memories of my mother,s

tasty carrot cake. Not only is it easy to make and bake, it is really healthy being dairy free and high in fibre, vitamins and minerals. 5o, Mum, this one,s for youl SERVES 8-ro

Preheat the oven to r5ooc, Gas z. Grease a rkg toaftin and tine the base with baking parchment. sift the ftour, spice and bicarbonate of soda together, then tip in the bran from the sieve if it won't rub through. peel and coarsety grate the

zoog plain wholemeal flour r tablespoon ground mixed spice r teaspoon bicarbonate ofsoda
2259 carrots z5og soft darl< brown sugar 15oml sunflower oil

carrots; you should have around zoog. Set aside. z Beat r75g of the sugar with the oil and orange zest, using a large etectric mixer or by hand, untiI smooth. Beat in the eggs, one by one, untit tight and creamy.
Fotd in the sifted ftour mixture until smooth, then finalty fold in the grated carrot,

finely grated zest ofr large orange

z medium free-range eggs

sultanas, coconut and chopped walnuts.

3 Turn the mixture into the prepared toaf tin and tevet the top. Stand the tin on
a

uog sultanas
5og desiccated coconut 5og chopped walnuts iuice

heavy baking sheet and bake for r hour zo-25 minutes. Meanwhite, gentty heat the orange luice with the remaining sugar and lemon juice in a smalt saucepan

untit the sugar is dissolveo.

4 To checl< that the cake is cooked, insert a metal skewer - it shoutd come our clean. Also, the top shoutd feeI quite firm when pressed. Run a knife around rne edges of the cake to loosen it. Pricl< hotes a[ over the surface with a skewer, tnen stowly drizzte over the orangey syrup so it seeps into the holes and round the edges. Leave the cake in the tin untit att the syrup is absorbed, then turn out and remove the base paper. Ptace on a wire racl< and leave to coot comptetelv. store in an airtight cal<e tin untit required. Serve cut into thicl< stices.

of/z

large orange

r tablespoon lemon juice

H=F-S T$ffi

Rouringa citrus

syrup over this cake as it cools makes it more moist and imparts a tangy flavour. The crust needs to be well

punctured with a skewer to enable

the syrup to soak in.

breads, pastries and cal<es 2O3

chocolate truffle ravioti

melts in the 'doughnuts' are filted with a chocolate ganache' which Brioche dough is highty versatile. These littte brioche as a chic dessert or treat with coffee' MAKES zo-24 centre and oozes out as you bite into them. Quite divine

Ganache

filling:

r First mal<e the ganache. Break

up the chocolate and ptace in a heatproof bowl

8og dark chocolate (6o% cocoa sotids) 4og unsalted butter 3 tablespoons double cream
Brioche dough:

gentty simmering water and stir with the butter and cream. Place over a pan of untit sotid. until metted and smooth. Remove and cool, then chitt

zUsingasmaltmelonbalter,scoopoutzo-z4baltsofganache;theydon'tneed
to be perfect spheres. Chitt untit required'
3 To mal<e

rog fresh yeast or z teaspoons dried

active Yeast

r5omI tePid milk z5g caster sugar, Ptus extra to dust 4oog strong Plain flour 2 teaspoons fine sea satt 4og unsatted butter z medium free-range eggs, beaten vegetable oi[, for deeP-frYing

mill< and a the brioche dough, if using fresh yeast mix with the tepid with a pinch of the sugar' lf using dried yeast, whisk the granutes into the mitk pinch of sugar and set aside until it starts to froth' into a targe bowt' set on a damp ctoth to hotd 4 Meanwhite, sift the flour and satt fine breadcrumbs, then it steady. Rub in the butter untit the mixture resembles centre' Pour in the yeasty in the remaining caster sugar. Mal<e a wett in the

mix

mitkandattbutztablespoonsofthebeatenegg.Mixtoadoughandshapeinto
a batt with Your hands'

surface for about 8 minutes untit the dough is 5 Knead on a tightty ftoured the dough to coat in the smooth and elastic. Ptace in an oited [arge bowt and turn and teave in awarm place untitthe dough has oi[. Coverthe bowt with ctingfitm

doubled in size.

6Knocl<bacl<thedough,thenkneaduntilsmooth.Rotloutonatighttyfloured

surfacetothethicknessofafrcoin.usinga5or6cmcutter,pressout40-48
(see below)' Rest in the rounds, re-rotting if necessary and shape the ravioti

fridge for 15 minutes.

7

deep-fat fryer with oil and When ready to serve, hatf-fil[ a deep saucepan or sugar, and l<itchen paper for heat to r8ooc. Have ready a shatlow bowl of caster

draining. Deep-fry the fitted dough batts, about 4-6 at

time' for

r'l

minutes

untitgotdenbrown.Drainonkitchenpaperforaminute,thentossinthesugarto
centre is stitt metted' coat. Coo[ stightty, but serve stit[ warm so the chocolate

2O4

Flour: breads, pastries and cakes

,:.::,.::.a

*-.t,& :..-

t:4

,,:'

court boui[[on
A court bouillon is a poaching liquor used for whole fish, lobster ond crab. lt imparts flavour and acidity

find it is worth the time to make up a court bouillon for simple poaching because of the added value in terms of flavour. MAKES ABOUT z LTTRES
I

to give fish and seafood a subtle piquancy.

z leeks, roughly chopped

2 carrots, roughly chopped

Put all the vegetables and gartic into a large stocl< pot

with the bunch of herbs and cover with the cotd water.
Bring to the boit. Add the rest of the ingredients, return to a simmer and cool< gently for about 3o minutes.

r celery sticl<, roughly chopped r large onion, roughly chopped

z medium shatlots, roughly chopped

z Strain the court bouillon through a colander tined with wet mustin into a deep bowl. Discard the vegetabtes and
flavo urings. 3 Cool the tiquor untess using straightaway. lt can be kept,

/,

fennel, bulb, chopped

3 gartic cloves (unpeeted)

r large sprig each thyme, tarragon,

basil and parsley, tied together
z litres water

covered, in the fridge for up to 3 days, or frozen.

teaspoon white peppercorns

rog rock salt

r lemon, sliced
r star anise zoomI dry white wine

zo8

Stocks, sauces and dressings

fish stock
flavoured fish stock with a light colour, choose sole or turbot bones, plus heods. Ask your fishmonger if he has any to spare, even if you are not buying sole or turbot at the time, or give him notice to put some aside for you. you will need around 15kg' lf turbot or sole aren't possibilities, you can use the bones of other white fish, but not oity fish like salmon. Fish stock is essential, t would say, for true soups or fish velout6s. MAKES ABour r.5 LTTRES fish
For a fine

r Prepare the bones and heads. rfusingthe head ofa [arge fish, remove the eyes
and gills, then chop the head in hatf. Avoid using the skin too, if possibte. Rinse away any blood from bacl<bones under cold running water, as this might give the stocl< a bitter taste, Roughty chop the bones so they witt fit into the pan.

about r.5l<g white fish bones and

heads

leel<, chopped

r onion, chopped
1

z Put all the vegetables into a stocl< pot with the olive oit, then heat until thev start to sizzte. cover with a tid and sweat gentty over a low heat for about

celery sticl<, chopped

i5 minutes, shal<ing the pan occasionally.

3 Stir in the fish bones and wine and cook

/zfennel butb, chopped

z garlic cloves (unpeeled)

untilthe wine evaporates almost

totalty away. Now pour in the water, add the herbs, [emon and peppercorns, and bring to the boit over a medium high heat.
4 As the tiquid boits gentty you wilt note a scum forms. This is simply due to fish proteins and is quite harmtess. However, we sl<im it off with a wide sl<imminc

rooml tight olive oi[ (not extra virgin) 3ooml dry white wine z [itres water
z sprigs each thyme and parstey, tied

together

spoon so it does not mal<e the stocl< cloudy.

the heat down and simmer, uncovered, for zo minutes no [onger or the stocl( may acquire a bitter taste from the bones. Turn offthe heat and Leave
5 Turn

I I

lemon, sliced teaspoon white peppercorns

undisturbed for ro minutes so the partictes settle. 6 Line a large colander with wet mustin and set over a targe bowl or smaller pan. Gentty tip the tiquid through the mustin. rf it hetps, remove the larger bones first with a slotted spoon. rf you are not using the stocr< straightaway, coorthen chilt. You should have about r.5 litres. Atternativety, you can boirthe strained stocr<
down to about r litre to concentrate the flavour.

frF{

mistake it fo_r chicken or vegetable flavours. Unsalted stock should keep in the freezer for up to 3 months.

T.:

gF-$ YFF mur,. a batch of stock, boil to concenrrate and ,l,j:. 5oomlcontainers. Don,t forget to fuU.f, o, Vuu ,igit

5tocl<s, sauces and

dressings 2Og

chicken stocl<
This is a good multi-purpose stock. We make chicken stock using fresh chicken carcasses delivered

daily to the restaurants, but I appreciate these are not always available to home cooks. lnstead, you
can buy packs of cheap fresh chicken wings. Light chicken stock is used in soups and creamy veloutds,

but we also use a dark (or brown) chicken stock for pork, lamb and game bird dishes. lt is made in the same way as light chicken stock except that the carcasses are first roasted in a hot oven. This gives a depth of colour and flavour without an over-meaty fdsfe. MAKES z LITRES zkg raw chicken carcasses or bony
chicl<en joints (such as wings or

Put the chicl<en carcasses into a stock pot, coverwith the

water and bring to the boit. Using a slotted spoon, skim off
any white scum.

backs) 4 litres cold water

3 celery sticl<s, roughly chopped

z Add the chopped vegetables to the pan along with the garlic and thyme. Return to the boil, then turn down the heat to a gentle simmer and cool<, uncovered for about 3 hours, sl<imming occasionally if necessary.
3 Strain the stocl< through a colander tined with wet mustin

z leel<s, roughly chopped z onions, roughty chopped z [arge carrots, roughty chopped

/z head gartic (unpeeted)

r large thyme sprig

into a large bowt. Discard a[[ the debris. lf you want

stronger stock, return the tiquid to the pan and continue boiting untiI reduced by hatf. Coot, chitt and use within
3 days, or freeze in 5oomI quantities.

ffi fl F$f; frKffi ru we use this stock to give a sauce some depth of flavour and a light cotour. Follow the

ffi#Wru

STffieK

ffi

i:,ilJ:i,:x',,lill:';J[::"J:T:ffJJl,il:'Jl.T;:l'""''
tu rn
i

ill,l.l llfJil J:;l'J,H:"

on

ce or twice

nti r n ice rv

27o

Stocl(s, sauces and dressings

vegetabte nage
This vegetable stock is one of the secrets of our light, yet full flavoured sauces. tt isn't simply made by

boiling all the ingredients together. lnfusion is the secret. The vegetables are simmered briefly, then
fresh herbs are added and the nage is Ieft to infuse for a good day before straining. This is the stock we
use for our vegetarian dishes and light vegetable soups. Occasionally I combine vegetable nage with

some fish or light chicken stock in a sIuce. MAKES ABOUT r.5 LITRES

Put att the vegetables, garlic, lemon, peppercorns, bay

3 onions, roughly chopped

leaf and star anise into a large saucepan or stock pot with the water. Bring to the boit, lower the heat and simmer for

r leek, roughly chopped

z celery sticks, roughly chopped 6 carrots, roughty chopped

ro minutes.
z Remove the pan from the heat, push in the bouquet of
herbs and stir in the wine. Coo[ to atlow the vegetabtes and herbs to infuse the tiquid with their delicate flavours. 3 Spoon the cooted vegetables and flavourings into a large

r head of garlic, sptit in hatf r lemon, roughly chopped

'/, teaspoon white peppercorns

1f teaspoon pink peppercorns r small bay leaf
4 star anise

jug or other suitable container and tip in att of the tiquid.

Cover and infuse in the fridge for z4 hours or so, then strain

through a muslin-[ined colander into another jug or bow[.

Keep covered in the fridge for up to 3 days untit ready to use. Alternatively, freeze in smaller amounts, remembering

z [itres cold water r sprig each tarragon, basil,

coriander, thyme, parsley and chervi[, tied together

to labet the containers.

zooml dry white wine

Stocks, sauces and dressings 217

velout6
A

good veloutd requires fresh stock - use chicken or fish stock, or vegetable nage depending on the recipe. This sauce gets its depth of flavour by boiling down the wine, stock and cream in stages.
Occasionally we whisk in a knob of ice cold butter to give the seuce e sheen. MAKES ABOUT 5ooml

rog butter
3 shaltots, finely chopped

Heat the butter in a wide saucepan, stir in the shailots then saut6 gently for about r5 minutes untit softened but

zooml dry white wine zooml Noilly Prat or dry vermouth 4oomI Fish Stock (page zo9),
Chicl<en Stock (page zro) or

not coloured. Deglaze with the wine and vermouth, then boiI for about 7 minutes untiI reduced by hatf.

z Pour in the stocl< or nage, return to the boil, stirring, and continue to boil until reduced by hatf. 3 Now add the two creams, bring back to a gentle boit and simmer untiI the sauce is the consistency of pouring cream.
Season to taste, then strain the sauce through a fine sieve. It should by now be smooth and glossy.

Vegetabte Nage (page

zn)

zoomI double cream

zoomlsingle cream
sea salt and freshly ground white

pepper
THYME VELOUTE

Use vegetable nage and proceed as above, adding 3 targe

thyme sprigs with the stock. lf desired, strip the leaves

from another smatI thyme sprig and stir these into the
sauce ,iust before serving.

#fufi ffi ffi-ffi ffi vou witt find that even fresh vegetabtes, wine, bones and herbs used to make stocks and sauces have some natural salty flavour and this will be concentrated by boiling and reducing. This is why I always
Season a sauce at the end.

'$-fi

272

Stocl(s, sauces and dressings

reo wrne sauce

with red meats, but we also use them for chicken dishes ond, surprisingly perhaps, certain full flavoured fish like salmon, nonkfish or turbot. Depending on the intended purpose, you can use either fish stock or light chicken stock as the base - both work well.
Red wine sauces are usually associated

T'

Freeze any sauce that you don't need now for later use. Resist the temptation to use a cheap red wine, o medium quality Cabernet Sauvignon or softer Merlot wine will give a far better resulf. MAKES 4ooml

First, pour the red wine into a wide shallow pan and boiI

75ct bottte red wine z tablespoons olive oil 4 targe shatlots, sticed

down untiI reduced by three quarters to a rich syrupy liquid, about zooml. z Heat the otive oiI in another pan and saut6 the shaltots for 5 minutes untit they soften and start to caramelise, then add the five spice powder, peppercorns, thyme and bay
teaf. Cool< for another 5 minutes, then degtaze with the sherry vinegar.

l teaspoon five spice powder

rz
blacl< peppercorns

r thyme sprig
r sma[[ bay teaf r tablespoon sherry vinegar
75omt tight Chicl<en Stocl< (page zro) or Fish Stocl< (page zo9)
sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

3 Now add the reduced wine and the stock. Bring to the boil
and boit rapidty for about ro-r5 minutes until reduced by half. Carefutty sl<im off any scum or fat from ihe surface using a ladle. 4 Stowty pour the hot tiquid through a sieve Iined with wet muslin. Repeat this process once more to ctarify the sauce
even further, then season to taste.

pepper

Stocl(s, sauces and

dressings 213

pan f us gravy
This is a quick sauce using the natural

jus (or pan juices) from cooked meat, poultry or fish.

The

jus is

enriched with a glass of wine, but you don't need to open a bottle especially, a splash of Noilly Prat from the storecupboard will do. lf you haven't any homemade stock to hand, use a bought tub of fresh stock.
MAKES ABOUT rTomt

pan 'jus'from cooking a steal<,

chicl<en joint or fish fitlet

Put the roasting

tin (or other pan the meat or fish has

been cool<ed in) on the hob over a low heat. Add the olive oit, shattot and thyme, and cool( gentty, stirring to scrape up the sediment, for about 3 minutes until softened. z Deglaze the pan with the vinegar, then pour in the wine. Bring to the boit and boiI untiI reduced by hatf. 3 Now add the stocl<, return to the boit and reduce by a

r-z tablespoons otive oil

r shallot, finely chopped

r thyme sprig

l teaspoon white wine or red wine

vinegar

r glass (about r75ml) red or white

wine
about r5omI fresh stock, or water mixed with powder

third. Whisk in the crdme fraiche or cream and cool< for another minute or so. Checl< the seasoning and pour through a sieve into a jug.

teaspoon boui[lon

r tablespoon crAme fraiche or double

cream
sea salt and freshly ground black

pepper

274

Stocks, sauces and dressings

classic pesto
We make fresh pesto to use as garnish, often thinning it down with vinaigrette or water and decanting it into a'squirty' plastic bottle, so we can easily swirl it on to plates of pasto, soups, etc. Puilsts would use a pestle and mortar, but we make pesto in a blender or food processor. Pine nuts soon turn rancid,

so buy fresh ones rather than use o pack you find lurking at the back of a cupboard - shame to spoil

good olive oil and fresh, fragrant basll. MAKES ABOUT 3ooml

Place the pine nuts, garlic and Parmesan in a fooo

5og pine nuts 5og gartic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped 5og Parmesan cheese, finely grated

processor and whiz until you have a fine crumbly mixture. z With the motor stit[ running, feed in the basiI leaves

through the chute, then slowly trickte in the olive oit.

Process until you have a smooth pur6e.

3og basil leaves

3 Spoon the pesto into a screw-topped iar, seal and store

in the fridge for up to r week. Or if you tike, thin the pesto

rzoml extra virgin olive oil

with 3-4 tablespoons cold water or vinaigrette and pour into a plastic bottte with a squirty top before refrigerating for up to r week.

flHffiF-S TBF

rrestr pestowilt

keep better in a screw-topped jar if you pour a thin layer of olive oil over

the surface before refrigerating.

Stocks, sauces and dressings 275

herb oils
I love

to

infuse olive oit with herbs and other flavourings to trickle over hot vegetables or grilled fish, chicken and chargrilled

vegetables. tnfused oils add instant flavour and richness with littte effort. You can also use them in vinaigrette dressings, diluted half and half with pure olive oil. lt is important to heat the oil to at least 9o"C to destroy any airborne bacteria in herb

sprigs and other flavourings, then bottle and seal white hot. This takes z-j minutes over a medium heat and does not affect the flavour of the oil. It is also a good idea to ensure the bottle is sterilised first either by putting it through a dishwasher infusions, pure grade olive cycle or heating it in a warm oven for rc minutes. There is no need to use extra virgin olive oil for

oil will suffice.

MAKES z5omt

3og basiI sprigs, including stalks z5om[ pure olive oil (not extra virgin)

r wash the basit sprigs under cold running water, then pat dry between kitchen
paper or spin in a salad sPinner.

z Heat the otive oit gentty in a medium pan over a moderate heat to about gooc; this takes about 3 minutes. Add the basil and stir gently untitwitted. Leave on the heat for r minute, then remove. 3 Lift the basitsprigs into a ctean, sterilised bottle, pushing them down with a sl<ewer or chopsticl<. Then carefully pour in the heated oit. seal immediatety and
coo[. Store in a cooI ptace out of direct sunlight. You can store the oit in the

fridge, but expect it to go cloudy

- this doesn't

affect the flavour.

VARIATIONS

Rosemary Wash 3-4 sprigs of fresh rosemary, dry and proceed as above. Sage Wash a good handfut offresh sage leaves, dry and proceed as above'
Red pepper Core, deseed and slice a medium red pepper. Saut6 in 4 tablespoons

of the above quantity of otive oit for z-3 minutes until iust softened. Then add

the remaining oit and heat for another z minutes. Continue as above. Gartic Saut6 about 8 peeled, fat gartic cloves in a little of the olive oil to cover for z minutes, but do not atlow to burn. Add the remaining oil and heat for another

z-3 minutes. Continue as above.

chitti Infuse a-6 whote dried chitties, according to taste

in the oil as

it heats.

or stice 3-4 targe fresh chilties and tightty saut6 in 3 tabtespoons of the otive oit, then add the remaining oit and continue as above. For a milder flavour, deseed
the chitties before sticing. Try combining chitti with 4 gartic ctoves.

vinaigrette
We use vinaigrettes to dress a variety of dishes, not just salads. New potatoes, pasta and couscous, for example, are often over tossed in a vinaigrette flavoured with chopped fresh herbs while still warm. But I also drizzle vinaigrette dressings

grilled fish, chicken and even sliced pan-fried liver and steaks, varying the oil and vinegar to suit the particular dish. The base should always be q medium flavour pure or extra virgin olive oil, mixed with a more neutral oil such as groundnut or sunflower oil. you can replace part of either oil with a nut oil, but use sparingly - hazelnut and walnut oils can
be very aromatic.

oil in my dressings than most classic recipes, simply because too much vinegar can (see overpower o dish. A quality white wine vinegar is fine, though you might like to experiment with different vinegars shake betow). I also add fresh lemon juice for a fruity, citrus hint. Make a good quantity of vinaigrette and store in the fridge;

use

proportionally

less vinegar to

or whisk before each use. MAKES ABOUT z5oml rooml extra virgin olive oil roomI groundnut oil

Put att the ingredients into a lug or bowt and whisk together until emutsified.

z Pour the vinaigrette into a clean bottle or jar and store in the fridge. shal<e
each time you use it.

teaspoon Maldon sea salt,

crushed

'/a teaspoon freshly ground white or

VARIATIONS

black pepper r tablespoon lemon iuice, or to taste z tablespoons white wine vinegar

Mustard and honey dressing Add 3 teaspoons coarse grain mustard with 1 teaspoon clear honey. Or for a vinaigrette with a subtte mustard flavour, iust
add a scant teaspoon of ptain Diion mustard (no honey). Herb dressing Chopped fresh herbs can be added to the vinaigrette at the tast minute before serving - not before as the bright green colour wi[[ turn to grey on storage. Add about r tablespoon chopped herbs to each roomI of dressing. Chopped chervit, chives and parsley are a[[ excellent in a dressing.

'WqffiffiffidtffiS fr#ffi, ffiffiffiSSfi*ru##

rouu,ytt',e rLavour, replace some or

a[ of the white wine vinegar. Rice wine vinegar is lighter and slightly sweeter, or for a
fulter, ftavour with a hint of apple, incLude a little cider vinegar. Aged balsamic vinegar wilt impart a special character. spanish sherry vinegar is one of my favourites, though it is quite strong, so a teaspoon is enough to lend a mellow flavour. Another spanish vinegar, forvm agridulce de Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend.ofwine vinegar and grape iuice that's almost syrupy and good enough to sip neat from a spoon'

zt8

Stocks, sauces and dressings

mayonnaise
A freshly made mayonnaise is far

using at [east 2 tablespoons you can righten a thick mayonnoise with vinaigrette, remains thick and spoonabre. rf required, the best organic eggs available' Note that raw egg yolks are used choose mayonnaise to each t tablespoon vinaigrette.

superior to anything you can buy'

lt uses egg yolks to stsbilise

the emulsion and always

Whiskingamayonnaisebyhandwillgivethebestresult,butyouCanuseablenderorfoodprocessor,usinglWhole is running' The mayo will be adding the oil through the chute while the motor egg and t yolk rather than z yolks, and slowly paler in colour and a little more runny' MAKES ABOUT 3oomt
1 Put

and mustard into a bowt' the egg yotls, wine vinegar, salt, pepper to taste' a baltoon whisk' beat wetl Stand this on a damp ctoth to hotd it steady' Using of oit from the tip of a until smooth and creamy. Now tricl<te in a few drops teaspoon, whisl<in g vi goroustY'

z free-range organic egg Yotks

l teaspoon white

wine vinegar

% teaspoon sea salt

then slowly increasing the z Continue to whisl< in the oit drop by drop at first' sure each addition is wetl amount you add to a stow, steady stream' making you witl achieve a thicl< incorporated before you add any more' This way
mayonnaise. and cold water to stabilise the emulsion' Taste 3 Finatty, add r-z tabtespoons adiust the seasoning if necessary'

freshly ground white or btack pepper 1 teaspoon English mustard Powder olive oit 3ooml groundnut oil or tight (not extra virgin)

VARIATIONS

btanch in boiling water tor Garlic mayonnaise Peet 3-4fatgartic ctoves and finished mayonnaise' 1 minute or so, tnen crush and stir into the

gritted Mediterranean Red pepper mayonnaise This is superb with

fish' such

as

redmuttetorseabass.Makeupthemayonnaise(asabove)andsetaside.Put

with 4-5 tabtespoons olive oil z finety chopped targe red peppers in a saucepan l tarragon sprig and cool< gently' and heat untit sizzting. Add r thyme sprig and about ro minutes' Remove the stirring once or twice, until soft but not browned'

herbsandwhizinabtenderorfoodprocessoruntitsmoothandcreamy.Pass

spoon' Coo[' then stir into the though a sieve rubbing with the bacl< of a wooden mayonnaise and check the seasoning'

flffi ilS'S

'F!F

rrvo, are unluckY

enough to find your mayonnaise does sptit, try this remedy. Whisk another egg yotk in a seParate bowl with a pinch each of salt, PePPer ano mustard, then whisk in the sPtit

mixture. lt should re-emutsifY'

Stocks, sauces and dressings 279