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1, Thumb or over-hand knot, tied at the end of a rope to prevent it from opening out, &c.
2, Right or reef-knot, for securing all lashings where the ends of the rope meet together.
3, Draw-knot, which offers great facility in undoing.
4, Running-knot, used to bind or draw anything close.
5, Sheepshank, serving to shorten a rope without cutting it or unfastening the ends.
6, Clove-hitch, which binds with excessive force, and by which alone a weight can be
hung to a smooth pole.
7, Timber-hitch, very useful in hauling to move a weight.
8, Single bowline-knot, difficult to undo, useful to throw over a post &c., to haul on, used
for the draw-loop of a slip noose.
9, Double bowline-knot, for slinging a cask.
10, Running bowline-knot.
11, Woolding or packing-stick hitch, used to tighten ropes.
12, Men's harness hitch, passing over the shoulder and under the opposite arm of men
drawing a carriage, &c.
13, Stopper hitch, for stoppering the fall of a tackle, &c.
14, Inside clinch, for fastening a cable to the anchor ring, &c.
15, Common or sheet bend, a very secure method of joining two ropes, or fastening a
rope to a loop.
16, Hawser bend, for joining two ropes, easily undone.
17, Cat's paw, the turn in the bight of a rope, for hooking a tackle to it.
18, Dragrope or lever-hitch, used for fixing hand-spikes or capstanbars to the ropes
attached to heavy carriages, &c., which have to be moved by men.
19, Half-hitch, cast on the bight of a rope.
20, Carrick bend. A wall-knot is a knot made at the end of a rope to prevent it from
passing through a hole.
The Bowline
The Bowline Knot is one of the most used loop knots. This variant is most used in the
world. Probably due to its simplicity, security, and its relationship with the Sheet bend.
Keep the cross point in step A between a finger and thumb and make a clock-wise turn
with your wrist. Without the loop in between, it is the same knot.
If the loop is expected to be heavily loaded, the bowline is, in fact, not secure enough.
There is a rule of thumb which states that the loose end should be as long as 12 times the
circumference for the sake of safety.
The Bowline
"Lay the bight to make a hole
Then under the back and around the pole
Over the top and thru the eye
Cinch it tight and let it lie"
The Dutch Marine
Bowline / or The Cowboy Bowline
The Dutch Navy uses this variant of the bowline. And, of course, the Dutch sailor says
this one is superior. The working end is not so easy pushed back by accident, they say. I
think it is just a difference in culture.
There is a rule of thumb which states that the loose end should be as long as 12 times the
circumference for the sake of safety.
The double eight is a knot used by climbers. It is easy to tie and safer as the bowline.
There is a discussion whether there should be a stopper at the end of the loose end or not.
Speed of (un)tying is a safety factor itself.
The first way of tying is equal to the way of tying the flamish eight, but now in a double
rope. The 'loose-end' is the loop. This way is only applicable when the loop is 'empty'
during tying.