Costa Daurada Update

Version 1 - (2/12/1999) CONTENTS GENERAL COMMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 ROUTE and CRAG CORRECTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Page by page listing of amendments

MARGALEF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 to 5
Full topos and approach details This update is intended to be used in conjunction with Fax10 - Costa Daurada, published by ROCKFAX in 1998. For more details contact the ROCKFAX web site - rockfax.com.

Thanks to the following who have all contributed to this information: Steve Swygart, Kevin Stephens, Tom Philips, Philip Smith, Simon Pritchett, Alan Austin, Sebastian Schwertner, Bernd Poertl, Craig Smith, Lewis Grundy, Jane Grundy, Rory Park, Jane Park, Molly Heits, Sophie Milner, Jon deMontjoye, Hillary Sharp, Lisa Curry and David Chadwick. Sorry to anyone I have missed off.

Rory and Jane Park on Trumfus Petuts (5+), Sector Can Torxa at Margalef. Photo: Alan James

GENERAL COMMENTS
THE OVERVIEW MAPS The position of the village of Prades is wrong on all the little overview maps except the main one on page 39. ROPE LENGTHS I have had several comments stressing the fact that you really need a 60m rope in this area. We have tried hard in the guidebook to make this clear on page 18 and also on areas where it is relevant. You will have problems in the Costa Daurada with a rope shorter than 60m and even with a 60m rope you may end up having to lower off mid-route bolts. The reason we don't include pitch lengths for all routes is that if you describe a pitch as being 25m then people may assume they can lower-off safely with a 50m rope but: 1) not all 50m ropes are the same length 2) people may clip different bolts on their ascent making the pitch use more rope 3) people sometimes forget when they have cut the tag end off their rope 4) people stand in different places to belay 5) some people are stupid These five factors can be vital when the pitch is a long one especially if you are lowering onto a ledge or a steep slope where, even from 2m up, a fall can take you a long way. Another reason that we dont give detailed pitch lengths (on sport routes) is that climbers should learn to be responsible for their own ropes when lowering off and should never rely on the guidebook. A simple 'very long pitches' on the topo should suffice but if accurate details are there then people may trust them without questioning and then the five reasons above come into play. SNAKES and OTHER NASTIES Hog-nosed vipers have been spotted on the paths at Mussara and Montral and I have reliably been informed that these can be fatal if bites are not treated. Be careful with those sport sandals! Poison ivy has been found on the apporach to Lo Raval. If you are remotely allergic to this then give the crag a miss. PAGE 10 - GENERAL INFORMATION The telephone number of Tourist Info in Cornudella is wrong. I dont know what it really is. The climbing shop is poor. The Decathlon between Tarragona and Reus has basic gear and a climbing wall. You can buy Fax10 at the camp site at Vilanova de Prades (if you need another copy or bump into someone who wants one).

Page 80 - Mont-ral - Sector l'Arrepenjada Route 8 - Ta is desperate therefore harder than 6b+. Page 90 - Arboli - Can Mansa Route 2 - Kuriosillo is 6a+. Route 3 - Marfullenga is 6a Page 93 - Arboli - Can Simiro Route 21 - Variant is three stars and probably better than the original but it is only 7a+. Page 95 - El Falco The line on the photo-topo marked as 14 is in fact Route 11. Page 97 - El Falco - Right Route 9 - Fandango is only 7b. Route 10 - Tu Pa Los.. has a dangerous first clip. Page 99 - El Falco - Left Route 11 - Pa Ella... is the only sandbag at Falco. Probably 7b unless you are a gorilla. Route 16 - Pere Mata is only 6b+. Route 19 - Haber pedido muerte is a superb route but the grade is all over the place. The first half is probably about 6b and the second half is probably easier. The grade of 6b+ if you do it in one long pitch is about right. Route 20 - Per Tutatis is only 7a+ but it is 40m. This is also the route featured in all the photos early in the book, not Borinot. Page 104 - Siurana - Valley Crags Route 2 - Kataplax is 7a. Route 17 - Mandragora is probably 7b+. Page 107 - Siurana - Valley Crags The photo is Ya os Vale not Bistec. Page 113 - Siurana - Sector Melafots Route 31 - Hybrydy is worth 2 stars as is Route 35 - Hostia. Page 115 - Siurana - Can Marges Lower Route 3 - Ay Candemor is worth 5+ Route 4 - Can Fanga is worth 6a Route 5 - Trimegesto has a dodgy first bolt and the second is quite high. Possibly 6a. Page 118 - Siurana - Campi Qui Pugui Route 23 - Isadora.. is 7b+. Page 119 - Siurana - Can Gan Dionis Route 2 - Escaralamoza is 6c. Route 3 - Eto e tota ihas poor bolts.

Page 124 - Siurana - Tonigros Route 4 - Estrany. is 6b. Page 125 - Montsant - Approach Dont go up the track directly from the parking, this is someones driveway. Take the other track which leads first to the left then doubles back up the hill. Page 130 - Montsant Routes 2 and 3 are only 2 star. Route 10 is a sustained 6b+, 1 star. Route 11 is brilliant. Route 21 is called Cometa Pupazza and is abrilliant but hard 6c. There is a new line 29a - grade unknown but hard. Routes 31 and 32 looked okay so bin the bags! Route 35 is only 7a+ but quite scary. Page 132 - Vilanova - General Comment The grades at this crag are very stiff! Page 137 - Vilanova - Sector Camping Route 34 - Maneta Xafardera is worth 6c. Page 141 - Vilanova - Sector Dels Ploms There are lots of new routes here. No details are known but they have all been put up by the owners of the camp site at Vilanova de Prades who will give you the information happily. Page 147 - La Riba - Sector Pedestal The two routes Mejar menjant and La via de Brian are extremely polished and not really worth 3 stars. Menjar menjant is worth 6c+. Page 151 - La Riba - Sector Les Plaques Route 12 - GEAM is worth 7a. Page 147 - La Riba - Sense Nom Route 1 - Panini di Paura is brilliant but only 6c+. Route 2 - Mon Magic... is also brilliant but is probably 7a+. Page 157 - Cogullons - Approach I have had a report that from the large lump of rock with a sign post on top of it, you need to continue for 1km, not 550m, to the left turn. Page 165 - Les Gralles Some of the easy routes have been de-bolted in order to put up some new routes in the middle of the pinnacles. The new routes don't look very good. The de-bolted rotues are, on page 165 - Route 2, Route 3, Route 4, Route 7 and Route 8, and on page 167 - Routes 25 to 29.

ROUTE and CRAG CORRECTIONS

Page 44 - La Mussara - Sector Roure Route 3 - Roure is polished and not very good any more. Probably worth 6b now. Route 5 - Shargamanta is only 6c Route 10 - Tu no vadis is harder, 6c. Page 49 - La Mussara - Sector La Proa Route 12 La Primera del Estiu is probably 6b+ over the top roof. Page 50 - La Mussara - Sector Espantocells Route 4 is probably only about grade 5. The extension to Route 5 - Espantocells is 6b. Route 9 - Del Pelut is 6b+ Page 66 - Soterrani - Jardi del Roure Route 7 - Love etc. is easier - 6a ish Page 69 - Soterrani - El Biombo Route 10 is worth 6a. Page 75 - Les Campinelles Route 16 - Visula Persuasion is worth three stars.

Page 2 - Costa Daurada Update 2/12/99

MARGALEF
Margalef is a pleasant little area which didnt make the main guide. It has a good set of routes and some very interesting rock formations and should provide a good days entertainment for most teams.

EHIO
Can Torxa

MARGALEF - Can Torxa

THE ROUTES

The rock is a conglomerate, like that found at Montsant, but the buttresses are on a much smaller scale. Most of the climbing involves pulling on big pebbles or holes once filled by ex-pebbles. The walls are sometimes steeply undercut giving hard starts but on many of the developed buttresses there are The valley of Margalef with El Laboratori and Can Llepafils on the right. Photo: Alan James plenty of friendly slabby options as well. It is particularly good in the lower grades which are sometimes lacking on certain Daurada crags. Those operating at 7a and above may be a little disappointed but it could make a good rest day venue.

9 10

7 11 8

12

CAN TORXA
The first quality buttress encountered on the road side of the stream also has some of the best routes of the whole valley. APPROACH - It is possible to park under the crag but if these spots are occupied park at the larger areas further back.

EL TOXTO DEN FREDI

A small and relatively insignificant buttress further up the road. There are two worthwhile routes. APPROACH - This buttress is very much above the road. There is a small parking spot for 2 cars a bit further on. The base of this crag is very sandy but higher up the wall is more solid.

ASPECT AND CLIMATE

The left-hand side of this valley (looking up) is a complete suntrap and can be even hotter than many of the other sun-traps in te Costa Daurada since it is also relatively sheltered. The other side, however, is in the shade for much of the day, unless you get here early, and can be a pleasant hot weather alternative.

1. Calatrava . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5km
Vilanova de Prades
T701 C242

x 6a

A lone route up the short wall to the left of the main buttress.

2. Trumfus Petuts . . . . . . . . .

2x 5+ 2x 6a 1x 6b+ 1x 5+

A good finish on the upper wall. See photo on title page.

Ulldemolins
T701

13. Project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hard 14. Project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hard 15. El Bocamoll del Priorat
Up orange streaks past a hole.

APPROACH

The valley is situated some distance to the west of the main areas covered in the book. The best road to follow is the C242 which goes through Cornudella. Head along this road, avoiding any turns to the right until you can turn left down a steep windy road to Margalef. Clock the kilometres at the top of the hill and look out for a turning on the left after 6.3k. This leads up a wide valley with buttresses on either side. There are various parking spots which are detailed on the map below and with the individual sector notes.

Margalef
Montsant
Cornudella Margalef

Prades

3. LEscorpi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4. Juli Vert . . . . . . . . . . . . .

A slightly better line to the right, sharing the same start.

Siurana
T704

2x 6a+ A hard start off a pile of boulders. Well positioned higher up.
5. Somiaruites . . . . . . . . . . .
The left wall of the gully.

2sx 6c+ 1x 6c x 6b

Arboli
Scala Dei

16. Solikoi . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
A very sandy start.

La Mussara

17. Via del Mingo . . . . . . . . . . . .

Looks harder than 6b. Sandy steps to start.

C242

6. Follet tortuga . . . . . . . . . .
Slaby wall right of the gully.

Porrera
N420

1x 6a A steep start with pleasant climbing above.

7. Name Unknown . . . . . . . . . 8. Ivan Tres Potes . . .

The next buttress along is El Laboratori (see next page).

El Toxto den Fredi

6.3 km from the main road

El Toxto Den Fredi Can Torxa

Ruins

Can Llepafils

Reservoir Can Si Fa o No Fot

2psx 7b
13

A powerful bulging start leads to a thin upper wall.

2 cars 2 cars

9. Supercalcrea . . . .
El Laboratori 4 cars 2 cars

2tsx 7a sx (7a/b)

14

Trend left towards the arete.

Margalef village

10. Name Unknown . . . . . . . .

The steep side wall.

Can Pesafigues Can Verdures

Cova Boix

Unclimbed cliffs = pylon Not to scale

1x 6c 12. El free Pend . . . . . . . . .1x 6c The long grey wall behind a tree.
11. Freekand . . . . . . . . . . .

15

Sandy
16 17

ROAD

Page 3 - Costa Daurada Update 2/12/99

MARGALEF - Can Lepafils

Main

ESI
2 min 21 22

MARGALEF - Can Lepafils

Right

23

18

19

20

27 28 17 7 8 16 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 24 25 26 29 30 31 32 33 34

15. Puerto Murraco . . . . . . . . FAR LEFT EL LABORATORI

Further up the valley from Can Torxa the lower walls bulge over the road. These walls have plenty of bolt lines on them but most look like either extremely hard routes or very ambitious projects. Infact the immense cave at the far end of the wall has the Worlds most outrageously placed lower-off on its lip. 25m horizontal roofs all around it and no visible holds! If you do feel like tackling something a bit harder then the lines to the right of the buttress, before the cave, looked a bit more reasonable. The first routes are on a short wall beyond the main undercut buttress. Slide around the edge of the low roof.

1x 6a

30. To raro . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Steep start.

1x 5

16. Desakato . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17. Llepafils

Left of the scoop.

CAN LLEPAFILS
The most extensive buttress in the valley is perched above the impressive bulging walls of El Laboratori. This has numerous pleasant slab routes especially in the lower grades. It is very exposed to the sun and can be incredibly hot. APPROACH - Drive down the valley past Can Torxa and continue past El Laboratori and the deep cave on a corner. Park on the next bend. Walk up to the pylon and double back above the big cave to reach the upper tier.

bx 4+ 2. A morro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5 3. Sexi movie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a 4. Korroscada . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6b+ 5. Eskorbuto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a 6. Sociedad Alcohlica . . . . . . . .x ?

1. Tampak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MAIN
The main buttress has an unfortunately undercut base giving most of the routes a first-move crux.

x 6a . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 5+ x5

18. Pampa mik . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Right of the scoop.

1x 4+ 20. Txak Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 4 A high first bolt, but easy climbing.

19. Trans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21. A mi plin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Start up a steep bank. Break out left.

x 5+ 32. Fa fong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5 33. Jungle-jungle . . . . . . . . .bx 6a 34. Akimatoro . . . . . . . . . . .bx 5+

31. Air Bamba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CAN SI FA NO FET - No Topo
Futher up the valley is another developed buttress above the road. The local topo and I disagree severely about the grades and lines here so I have included both. My grade is an appearance grade only and is in brackets. APPROACH - Drive about 500m beyond the parking space for Can Lepafils. Park in a lay-by on the right just before a pylon and sign, on a bend where the reservoir appears. The path up to the buttress is in the trees opposite the pylon.

x5 x 5+ x 6a+

22. Pidle soccaret . . . . . . . . . . .

Direct verison of the previous route.

Far Left

x 5+ 8. Torrada negra . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5+ 9. Bombarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a

7. Titacorta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10. Les mosques tambe dormen . . . . . . . . . . .
After a beefy start, climb the crack.
5 1 2 3 4 6

23. Miss Tela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Thin slab. Start up the steep bank.

Name Unknown . . . . . . . . . . . . .

x (6b) x (7c/8a)

RIGHT
The first routes encountered are a bit short and uninspiring but there are a few that look okay.

Local topo has this as a project. Start up and around to the left on a higher ledge.

Pilsen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1x 6a+ 1x 6b 1x 6a+ 1x 6b 1x 6a+

11. Avi que no has visit livingston . . . . . . . .

Another beefy start.

x4 25. Katulina . . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 4+ Left of the big tree.

24. Tronco Quemac . . . . . . . . . . . 26. Rosco guarro . . . . . . . . .
Right of the big tree.

Locally given 6c. Start from the higher ledge. This is up the wall left of the big rounded arete.

Cop de Cap . . . . . . . .

2sfx (7a/b) 2sfx 7a+ x Hard! 2spx (7a/b)

Locally given 6c. A boulder problem start to the ledge (or walk in under route 2).

1x 5

Figogol . . . . . . . . . .

Agreement! locally given 7a+. A short wall to the ledge.

12. Smuc . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
20m to Main Sector

An easier start if you step on the tree stump.

13. Besigato . . . . . . . . . . . .
Hard start.

14. Callaunrato . . . . . . . . . .

x5 28. Cutty Sark . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 4 29. Raticulin . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 5+ Steep start.

27. LHomflor . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Txana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Locally given 6c - unbelievable!

Via del mingo . . . . . .

Locally 6c+. Start from gully behind the block.

Page 4 - Costa Daurada Update 2/12/99

MARGALEF - Can Verdures

RSOP RSO
7 min 5 min

MARGALEF - Can Pesafigues

10

11

14 13 5 27 1 2 3 4 7 16 9 P 12 P P 18 15 17 24 25 26 28 29 30 31 6 8

Dont bush bash from Can Pisafigues From stream (2nd cairn)

No access

23 19 20 21 22

From stream (1st cairn)

CAN VERDURES
This steep buttress is heavily undercut at the point where the path arrives. The main area of interest is to the left where the upper walls are more accessible. APPROACH - From the first parking spot, by the ruin and small dam, cross the stream and walk along the right bank for about 300m. The first cairn leads up to Can Pesafigues. The second cairn leads up to Can Verdures. Dont try and get to this buttress from Can Pesafigues without returning to the stream since the bush-bash is awful.

CAN PESAFIGUES 9. Galef . . . . . . . . . .

Sustained above the break.

2stx 7b 2x 6c

The first buttress encountered on the far bank of the stream is heavily vegetated at its base. APPROACH - From the first parking cross the stream and walk along the bed for about 300m. When you come to the first cairn head up through the bushes.

The next routes are on the set-back buttress right of the approach path.

10. Verdures atmiques . . . . .

Good climbing on the upper wall.

17. Project 18. Maar Galluf . . . . . . . . . . . . .

11. Project 12. Bitx . . . . . . . . . . 13. Ni poc . . . . . .

x 6c x 6b+ x 6b+

1. El da de La Bestia . . . .
At the end of the cleared vegetation.

tfx 7a+ x 6b+

2stx 7b 1psx 7a

Start up a white streak.

x 6a 28. La senda de wenda . . . . . . . .x 5+ A recessed crack.

27. Drac Sheran . . . . . . . . . . . . .

A steep start but the main difficulties lie higher up.

19. Bulma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Left of the tree.

2. Baginades . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Left of an orange streak.

1pstx 7b

A steep starting bulge with some painful pockets.

20. Sense Pi . . . . . . . . . . . .
Behind the tree.

1x 6c+

1x 6b+ 4. Murciegalus . . . . . . . . . . .1x 6b+ Up and orange scoop.

3. Kriliu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5. Gos roig ros boig . . . . .
Start from a block.

x 7a 30. El mostre B . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6c+ 31. LEstibador . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6c

29. Ulls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . COVA BOIX
The third cairn on the stream-side path leads up to another buttress, via a windy path. This is probably the most impressive buttress in the valley but so far only has two bolt lines. One looks about 7c/8a and was well chalked, the other looks impossible.

14. Estilson . . . . . . .

The same steep start is the crux. The next section has an impressive project. The only other routes are to the right from the approach path.

21. Crupa Aristo . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Pocket at the start.

2sx 6c tx 7a

15. La pernillota del Passadena . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The wall and slim corner right of the roof.

x 6b

1x 6b 23. Campus . . . . . . . . . . . . .2x 6b+ A slab up the pillar.

22. Tasmanian devil . . . . . . . 24. El Pesafigues . . . . . . . . .
A steep start but a nice upper wall.

6. Samson . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Technical moves on the upper wall.

1tx 7a+ 8. El seynor de les mosques . .2x 6c+ The corner crack and fine upper groove.
7. Carn DOlla . . . . . . . . .

16. La feria Choquetin . . . . . .

A thin slab.

tx 6b

1x 6b 1x 6b 1x 6c+

25. Murdol . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26. Escargot Boob . . . . . . . .

The right wall and crack in the big red corner.

Tricky start then easier climbing just left of the arete.

Page 5 - Costa Daurada Update 2/12/99