FABRIC STUDY ASSIGNMENT-2

Documentation and presentation on the use of different fibers/filaments, yarns, fancy yarns for various apparel usescorrelations with the specific properties of the fibers/filaments, yarn

SUBMITTED TO:
Mr. D. Praveen Nagarajan Asst. Prof. DFT
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AN EFFORT MADE BY:

Neha Keshab (CHE13MT08) Tina Dhingra (CHE13MT02) MFT-1sem

JUTE PLY: 2 TWIST: S Jute is a long, soft, shiny vegetable fiber that can be spun into coarse, strong threads. It is produced from plants in the genus Corchorus, which was once classified with the family Tiliaceae, more recently with Malvaceae, and has now been reclassified as belonging to the family Sparrmanniaceae. "Jute" is the name of the plant or fiber that is used to make burlap, Hessian or gunny cloth. Jute is one of the most affordable natural fibers and is second only to cotton in amount produced and variety of uses of vegetable fibers. Jute fibers are composed primarily of the plant materials cellulose and lignin. It falls into the bast fiber category (fiber collected from bast or skin of the plant) along with kenaf, industrial hemp, flax (linen), ramie, etc. The industrial term for jute fiber is raw jute. The fibers are off-white to brown, and 14 metres (313 feet) long. Jute is also called "the golden fiber" for its color and high cash value.

CULTIVATION
Jute needs a plain alluvial soil and standing water. The suitable climate for growing jute (warm and wet) is offered by the monsoon climate, during the monsoon season. Temperatures from 20C to 40C and relative humidity of 70%80% are favourable for successful cultivation. Jute requires 58 cm of rainfall weekly, and more during the sowing time.

FEATURES

Jute fiber is 100% bio-degradable and recyclable and thus environmentally friendly. Jute has low pesticide and fertilizer needs. It is a natural fiber with golden and silky shine and hence called The Golden Fiber. It is the cheapest vegetable fiber procured from the bast or skin of the plant's stem. It is the second most important vegetable fiber after cotton, in terms of usage, global consumption, production, and availability. It has high tensile strength, low extensibility, and ensures better breathability of fabrics. Therefore, jute is very suitable in agricultural commodity bulk packaging. It helps to make best quality industrial yarn, fabric, net, and sacks. It is one of the most versatile natural fibers that has been used in raw materials for packaging, textiles, nontextile, construction, and agricultural sectors. Bulking of yarn results in a reduced breaking tenacity and an increased breaking extensibility when blended as a ternary blend. The best source of jute in the world is the Bengal Delta Plain in the Ganges Delta, most of which is occupied by Bangladesh. Advantages of jute include good insulating and antistatic properties, as well as having lowthermal conductivity and a moderate moisture regain. Other advantages of jute includeacoustic insulating properties and manufacture with no skin irritations.

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Ultimate length: 1.5-4mm Ultimate diameter: 0.015-0.020mm No. of ultimate in X-section: 6-10 Fibers length: 5-12ft Color: white, off-white, yellow, brown, grey, golden Strength(Tenacity): 3-4 gm/denier Elongation: 1.7% at the break Specific Gravity: 1.5 Moisture Regain(MR%): 13.75% Resiliency: Bad Dimensional Stability: Good Abrasion Resistance: Average
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Effect of light and heat: Average Effect of Micro organism: Good(better than cotton)

CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
Effect of Acids: Easily damaged by hot dilute acids and conc. Cold Acid Effect of Alkalis: Fibers are damaged by strong alkali. Fiber looses weight when it heated with caustic soda. Effect of Bleaches: Resistant to bleaching agents (Bleaching agent, H2O2, NaOCl, NaClO2, Na2O2, CH3COOH, KMnO4, etc.) Effect of Light: Color changes slightly in presence of sun light. It happens due to presence of lighting in fiber. Effect of Mildew: Prevention ability in better than Cotton and Linen.

Dyeing ability: Easy to dyeing. Basic dye is used to color jute fiber. ADVANTAGES OF JUTE FIBERS
Advantage of jute over other man-made fibre is still supreme in modem world because of its many inherent yet unique properties. Under stress jute extends only 0.5% to its stable form and so gives wonderful dimensional stability. Jute being hygroscopic and aeriferous permits normal breathing and humidity to the contents and so ensures their storage without deterioration. The hairy surface of jute fabric gives it a capacity to grip any surface it comes in contact with. They can, for this reason, be stacked high and wide without any risk of slippage. Hooks may be used freely and easily on jute products during handling as its innate properties cover up the pierced holes immediately after. It thus prevents seepage loss of contents during transportation and allows itself to be re-used over and again. Protecting environment is one duty it does for all our tomorrows.

DISADVANTAGES OF JUTE FIBERS

The crease resistance of Jute is very low. Drape Property is not good enough. Create Shade effect and becomes yellowish if sunlight is used. If Jute is wetted it lose its strength.
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JUTE BEING NATURAL IS BIODEGRADABLE

It does not plug the natural pore of the earth soil and surface. It has no adverse effect on human body and the mother nature as a whole. Protecting environment is one of the major activities it does for all our tomorrows. When burned, it emits the same fume as a burning wood as we know, is nothing dangerous. The ignition temperature of jute is 1930 c. It thus remains very stable upto near ignition point. Even at boiling temperature, its intact physical properties guard it from undergoing possible distortion.

END-USES OF JUTE GOODS

Jute is being ideally used as: Bags and sacks for packing almost all kinds of agricultural products, minerals, fertilizer, cement; Wool packs and cotton bales; Wrapping materials; Carrier and backing fabric for carpet and linoleum; Cordage and twines; Webbing and fabric to cover inner springs in auto seats and upholster furniture; Cargo separator in ship; Brattice cloth for mine ventilation and partition; Filling material in cable; Roofing and floor covering apparel; Footwear lining; Wall covering and furnishing fabric; Fashion accessories; Jute geo-textile for erosion control and many more.

BURNING TEST FOR JUTE

In Flame: Ignites immediately Removed From Flame: Continues to burn, doesnt shrink from flame Odor: Burning paper or wood Ash: Light colored

MICROSCOPIC VIEW OF JUTE

FANCY YARN: ACRYLIC WITH POLYETHENE PLY: 2 TWIST: S Acrylic fibers are synthetic fibers made from a polymer (polyacrylonitrile) with an average molecular weight of ~100,000, about 1900 monomer units. To be called acrylic in the U.S, the polymer must contain at least 85% acrylonitrile monomer. Typical comonomers arevinyl acetate or methyl acrylate. DuPont created the first acrylic fibers in 1941 and trademarked them under the name Orlon. Acrylic is also called acrilan fabric. As it resembles silk, it is also called artificial silk.[1] It was first developed in the mid-1940s but was not produced in large quantities until the 1950s. Strong and warm, acrylic fibre is often used for sweaters and tracksuits and as linings for boots and gloves, as well as in furnishing fabrics and carpets. It is manufactured as a filament, then cut into short staple lengths similar to wool hairs, and spun into yarn. Modacrylic is a modified acrylic yarn.

PRODUCTION
The polymer is formed by free-radical polymerization in aqueous suspension. The fiber is produced by dissolving the polymer in a solvent such as N,N-dimethylformamide or aqueous sodium thiocyanate, metering it through a multi-hole spinnerette and coagulating the resultant filaments in an aqueous solution of the same solvent (wet spinning) or evaporating the solvent in a stream of heated inert gas (dry spinning). Washing, stretching, drying and crimping complete the processing. Acrylic fibers are produced in a range of deniers, typically from 0.9 to 15, as cut staple or as a 500,000 to 1 million filament tow.

FEATURES
Lighter than wool fibers, and fabric hand with bulkiness. Superior in warm retention, light and warm. Superior in elastic recovery, and resistant to crease. Excellent in color development and can be dyed in desired color. Little affected by sunlight. Resistant to chemicals and cannot be attacked by molds and insects. Thermoplastic

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Tenacity: 2-4.2 gm/den Density: 1.16 gm/c.c Elongation at break: 20 to 55% Elasticity: Good Moisture Regain(MR%): 1-2.5% Resiliency: Good Melting point: 230C Ability to protest friction: Good Color: White or grey white Light reflection ability: Good Ability to protest heat: It can protest up to 150C temperature Lusture: Bright to light

CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
Acids: Acrylic has enough ability against acidic action Basic: Strong alkali damages the fiber Effect of bleaching: It is safe to bleach acrylic fiber Organic Solvent: Organic solvents do not cause harm to the acrylic fiber Protection ability against mildew: Excellent Protection ability against insects: Insects does not affect acrylic fiber Dyes: Acid dyes and basic dyes are suitable to dye acrylic fiber.

ADVANTAGES OF ACRYLIC FIBER

They are light weight but have more bulk. They are comfortable to wear due to high moisture management. Dyes can be easily applied to them and they are colorfast. They are odor and mildew resistant too. In cold weather acrylics provide excellent insulation and warmth without any extra weight. Cleans easily. It is resilient. It is chosen over glass for many reasons. It is many times stronger than glass, making it much more impact resistant and therefore safer. Falling against an acrylic shower door will not likely break it. Acrylic also insulates better than glass, potentially saving on heating bills. It is only half as heavy as glass. This makes working with acrylic much easier. A transparency rate of 93% makes acrylic the clearest material known.

DISADVANTAGES OF ACRYLIC FIBER

It is more expensive than glass. If exposed to a direct flame it will melt and eventually burn.

END-USES
FOR CLOTHING: Sweaters, Women's and Children's Wear, Sports Wear, Socks, Knitted Underwear, Pajamas, Gloves, etc FOR HOME FURNISHINGS AND BEDDING: Carpets, A Variety of Rugs, Upholstery, Cushions, Blankets, Pile Sheets, etc. FOR INDUSTRIAL USES: Felts for Paper Making, Filter Cloth, Alternative Asbestos, Tents, Sheet, etc. FOR OTHER USES: Rag Doll, Toys, Auxiliary Tapes for Bags, Braids, Cloth for Bags, Wigs, etc.

BURNING TEST FOR ACRYLIC

In Flame: Burns Quickly Removed From Flame: Continues To Melt Odor: Acidic Odor Ash: Plastic Looking Bead

MICROSCOPIC VIEW OF ACRYLIC

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FANCY YARN: NYLON WITH POLYETHENE

BRAIDED YARN Nylon is a generic designation for a family of synthetic polymers known generically as aliphatic polyamides, first produced on February 28, 1935, by Wallace Carothers at DuPont's research facility at the DuPont Experimental Station. Nylon is one of the most commonly used polymers. Key representatives are nylon-6,6, nylon-6, nylon-6,9, nylon-6,10, nylon-6,12,nylon11, nylon-12 and nylon-4,6. Nylon is a thermoplastic, silky material, first used commercially in a nylonbristled toothbrush (1938), followed more famously by women's stockings ("nylons"; 1940) after being introduced as a fabric at the1939 New York World's Fair. Nylon is made of repeating units linked by amide bonds and is frequently referred to as polyamide (PA). Nylon was the first commercially successful synthetic thermoplastic polymer. There are two common ways of making nylon for fiber applications. In one approach, molecules with an acid (-COOH) group on
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each end are reacted with molecules containing amine (-NH2) groups on each end. The resulting nylon is named on the basis of the number of carbon atoms separating the two acid groups and the two amines. These are formed into monomers of intermediate molecular weight, which are then reacted to form long polymer chains. Nylon was intended to be a synthetic replacement for silk and substituted for it in many different products after silk became scarce during World War II. It replaced silk in military applications such as parachutes and flak vests, and was used in many types of vehicle tires.

FEATURES

Variation of luster: nylon has the ability to be very lustrous, semi-lustrous or dull. Durability: its high tenacity fibers are used for seatbelts, tire cords, ballistic cloth and other uses. High elongation Excellent abrasion resistance Highly resilient (nylon fabrics are heat-set) Paved the way for easy-care garments High resistance to insects, fungi, animals, as well as molds, mildew, rot and many chemicals Used in carpets and nylon stockings Melts instead of burning Used in many military applications Good specific strength Transparent to infrared light (12dB).

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Tenacity: 6.0-8.5 gm/den Density: 1.14 gm/c.c Elongation at break: 15-45% Elasticity: Very good Moisture Regain(MR%): 3.5-5% Resiliency: Good Melting point: 215C Ability to protest friction: Excellent Color: White Light reflection ability: Not good Ability to protect heat: Upto 150C Lusture: Bright to light

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CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
Acids: Like Nylon 6.6, Nylon 6 has not enough ability against acidic action. Basic: Basic doesnt cause harm to the nylon 6. Nylon 6 has enough ability against alkali. Effect of bleaching: Strong oxidizing agent is harmful for the Nylon 6. Organic Solvent: It becomes soluble in any dense acid or phenol. Protection ability against mildew: Mildew cant cause harm to Nylon 6. Protection ability against insects: Insects cause harm to Nylon 6. Dyes: Nylon 6 could be dye by direct dyes, acid dyes and vat dyes.

ADVANTAGES
Variation of luster: nylon has the ability to be very lustrous, semilustrous or dull. Durability: its high tenacity fibers are used for seatbelts, tire cords, ballistic cloth and other uses. High elongation Excellent abrasion resistance Highly resilient (nylon fabrics are heat-set) Paved the way for easy-care garments High resistance to: insects, fungi and animals, molds, mildew, rot, many chemicals Melts instead of burning Used in many military applications

DISADVANTAGES
Physical weakness: High moisture pick-up with related dimensional instability Requires UV stabilization High shrinkage in molded sections High measure absoptivity degrades electrical and mechanical properties Attacked by oxidizing agents Attacked by strong acids and bases High notch sensitivity Social weakness: environmental problems regarding its lack of being biodegradable and general pollution.

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END USES OF NYLON

Nylon dominates the market for: Womens hosiery Lingerie Active sportswear Soft floor coverings Carpeting Industrial uses include: Tire cord, machine parts, such as gears and bearings Automotive uses: Belts, Ropes, Parachute fabric rip-stop nylon, intake manifolds, gas (petrol) tanks carpet fiber fishing lines footwear pantyhose Wind pants toothbrush bristles Velcro airbag fiber slings and rope used in climbing gear and slack lining

BURNING TEST FOR NYLON

In Flame: Melts slowly Removed From Flame: Self extinguishes Odor: Unidentified odor Ash: Plastic bead

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MICROSCOPIC VIEW OF NYLON

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SPANDEX (LYCRA) MONOFILAMENT

Spandex or elastane or elastomeric fiber is a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional elasticity. It is strong, but less durable than its major non-synthetic competitor, natural latex. It is a polyurethane-polyurea copolymer that was invented in 1959 by chemists C. L. Sandquist and Joseph Shivers at DuPont's Benger Laboratory in Waynesboro, Virginia. When first introduced, it revolutionized many areas of the clothingindustry. The name "spandex" is an anagram of the word "expands". It is the preferred name in North America; in continental Europe it is referred to by variants of "elastane", i.e. elasthanne (France), elastan (Germany), elastano (Spain and Portugal), elastam (Italy) and Elasthaan(Holland), and is known in the UK, Ireland, Argentina, Australia and New Zealand primarily as Lycra. Brand names for spandex include Lycra (made by Koch subsidiary Invista, previously a part of DuPont), Elaspan (also Invista), Acepora (Taekwang), Creora (Hyosung),ROICA and Dorlastan (Asahi Kasei), Linel (Fillattice), and ESPA (Toyobo).
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PRODUCTION
Spandex fibers are produced in four different ways: melt extrusion, reaction spinning, solution dry spinning, solution wet spinning.

All of these methods include the initial step of reacting monomers to produce a prepolymer. Once the prepolymer is formed, it is reacted further in various ways and drawn out to make the fibers. The solution dry spinning method is used to produce over 94.5% of the world's spandex fibers.

FEATURES
Can be stretched repeatedly and still recover to very near its original length and shape Generally, can be stretched more than 500% without breaking Stronger, more durable and higher retractive force than rubber Lightweight, soft, smooth, supple In garments, provides a combination of comfort and fit, prevents bagging and sagging Heat-settable facilitates transforming puckered fabrics into flat fabrics, or flat fabrics into permanent rounded shapes Dyeable Resistant to deterioration by body oils, perspiration, lotions or detergents Abrasion resistant When fabrics containing spandex are sewn, the needle causes little or no damage from needle cutting compared to the older types of elastic materials Available in fiber diameters ranging from 10 denier to 2500 denier Available in clear and opaque lusters.

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Tenacity: 0.7 gm/den Density: 1.21-1.35 gm/cc Elongation at break: 400-700% Elasticity: Excellent Moisture Regain(MR%): 0.6% Resiliency: Very Good Ability to protest friction: Excellent
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Color: White or near white Ability to protest heat: Not good Lusture: Less bright

CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
Acids: It has preventive power against all of the acidic action. Basic: Hot alkali damages the spandex filament. Effect of bleaching: Bleaching action damages the fiber and it becomes weak. Protection ability Organic Solvent: Good Protection ability light: Very good Protection ability against mildew: Good Protection ability against insects: It doesnt get affected by insects Dyes: Disperse dyes, acid dye is suitable to dye spandex filament

ADVANTAGES OF LYCRA It is used in clothing because its lightweight, comfortable, and breathable. Due to its fitting nature it is often used in women's clothing rather than in men's
clothing.

It dries quickly, moisture wicking and it is easy to dye. It has bacteria resistant nature, blocks ultraviolet rays and so it is used in garments. Garments that are made using lycra are socks, swimwear, exercise clothing and
leggings.

DISADVANTAGES OF LYCRA
Since it is tight-fitting, non-cyclists feel hard to accept its appearance. Social acceptance of this tight-fitting is still slowly being implemented. Origninal lycra does not absorb liquids.If it is in the lining of the suit, it traps moisture against the skin rather than wicking it away from the skin. If the Lycra is being used as a base for gluing, as might be the case in a foam bodysuit, the glue will tend not to soak in the fibers and you will not get good adherence.
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END USES
Circular knits: They include active wear, swim wear, casual wear e.t.c Hosiery: Socks, briefs e.t.c Non-woven: Personal care products like diapers. Narrow fabrics: Waistbands, straps, belts e.t.c. Warp knits: Body shaping garments. Stretch woven: Stretch cloths like skin, tight jeans, stretch bandages and wraps.

BURNING TEST OF SPANDEX

In Flame: Melts slowly Removed From Flame: Self extinguishing Odor: Acidic Ash: Plastic bead

MICROSCOPIC VIEW OF SPANDEX

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COTTON PLY: 6 TWIST: S Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective capsule, around the seeds of cotton plants of the genus Gossypium. The fiber is almost pure cellulose. Under natural conditions, the cotton bolls will tend to increase the dispersion of the seeds. The plant is a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, Africa, and India. The greatest diversity of wild cotton species is found in Mexico, followed by Australia and Africa. Cotton was independently domesticated in the Old and New Worlds. TheEnglish name derives from the Arabic (al) qutn which began to be used circa 1400 AD. The Spanish word, "algodn", is likewise derived from the Arabic. The fiber is most often spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile. The use of cotton for fabric is known to date to prehistoric times; fragments of cotton fabric dated from 5000 BC have been excavated in Mexico and the Indus Valley Civilization (modern day Pakistan and some parts of India). Although cultivated since antiquity, it was the invention of
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the cotton gin that so lowered the cost of production that led to its widespread use, and it is the most widely used natural fiber cloth in clothing today.

TYPES OF COTTON
There are four commercially grown species of cotton, all domesticated in antiquity:

Gossypium hirsutum upland cotton, native to Central America, Mexico, the Caribbean and southern Florida, (90% of world production) Gossypium barbadense known as extra-long staple cotton, native to tropical South America (8% of world production) Gossypium arboreum tree cotton, native to India and Pakistan (less than 2%) Gossypium herbaceum Levant cotton, native to southern Africa and the Arabian Peninsula (less than 2%)

FEATURES
Grows in seed pot of the Cotton plant and composed 90% of Cellulose. Length of Cotton fibres varies from 2. When viewed under microscope, each fibre is a single elongated cell that is twisted and ribbon like with wide inner hollow (lumen).Its a kidney or bean like shape.

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF COTTON

Color: White, creamy white, bluish white, yellowish white or grey. Textile Strength: It is moderately strong. It has a tenacity of 3.5gm/den. The strength is greatly affected by moisture, the wet strength of cotton is 20%, which is higher than dry strength. Elongation at break: It doesnt stress easily. It has an elongation at break of 5-10%. Elastic Recovery: It is inelastic and rigid fiber. At 2% extension it has an ER of 74% and 5% extension it has an ER of 45%. Specific Gravity: 1.54 Moisture Regain(MR%): Standard moisture regain is 8.5 Effect of Heat: It has an excellent resistance to degradation by heat. It begins to turn yellow after several hours at 120C and decomposes marked at 150C. As a result of oxidation, cotton is severely damaged after few minutes at 240C. Cotton burns in air. Effect of Sunlight: There is a gradual loss of strength when cotton is exposed to sunlight and the fiber turns yellow. The degradation of cotton by oxidation is done when heat is
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promoted and encouraged. By sunlight much of the damage is caused by UV light and by the shorten waves of visible light. Effect of age: It shows a small loss of strength when stored carefully. After 50 years of storage cotton may differ only slightly from the new fibers.

CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF COTTON

Effect of Acids: It is attacked by hot dilute acids or cold concentrated acids which it disintegrates. It is not affected by acids. Effects of Alkalis: It has an excellent resistance to alkalis. It swells in caustic alkalis (NaOH) but it doesnt get damaged. It can be washed repeatedly in soap solution without any problem. Effect of Organic Solvent: Cotton has high resistance in normal cleaning solvents. It is dissolved by the copper complexes, such as cuprammonium hydroxide, cupriethylene diamine. Effect of Insects: It is not attacked by moth grubs or beetles.

ADVANTAGES OF COTTON
Hypoallergenic and dust mite resistant - Being hypoallergenic and dust mite resistant is one of the great advantages of cotton. This is why cotton is the best choice for people with allergies or asthma. Hypoallergenic people who are prone to skin irritation love wearing cotton in general. Environmentally friendly - People who are concerned about the environment know that one of the best advantages of cotton is that it is environmentally friendly. Not only is cotton biodegradable, it is also a renewable resource. Many people who are concerned with the environment chose to get clothes that are made with organic cotton. This is cotton that is grown with out the use of pesticides. Durable - Nobody wants to spend money on clothes only to have them fall apart quickly. One of the best advantages of cotton is that it is durable. Cotton made clothes usually last much longer than clothes made of other materials. Cotton clothing is especially good for mothers of rambunctious children, who are hard on clothing. Clothes made with cotton still look good after they have been worn hard. Breaths Well - One of the main advantages to cotton is that it breaths well. Being able to breath easily makes people who wear cotton feel cool and comfortable. Soft - Everyone likes the feeling of soft material on their skin. A great advantage of cotton is that it is extremely soft. This makes cotton one of the best choices when purchasing undergarments.

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DISADVANTAGES OF COTTON
Cotton clothes will begin to fade after a few years, particularly if left in direct sunlight. by mold and mildew. Man-made fabrics tend to be much tougher, and mold resistant.

Cotton is not a very weatherproof fabric. If left outside it is also likely to be damaged

BURNING TEST OF COTTON

In Flame: Ignites immediately Removed From Flame: Continues to burn Odor: Burning paper or wood Ash: Light ash, blows away

MICROSCOPIC VIEW OF COTTON

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