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Elastic knitted fabrics for tight fit sportswear

Spandex core cotton spun knitted fabrics are preferable for active sportswear like hockey, rugby and tennis, and Spandex back plaited cotton knitted fabrics are preferable for stretch sportswear for javelin, shot-put and athletic sprint sports activities, moot M Senthilkumar and Dr N Anbumani. Stretch garment are used in athletic sports activities such as cycling, swimsuits and sprint games. It improves the sportsman or athletics' performance by achieving body demand in movements by reducing fabric resistance to the body. A simple body movement expands the skin about 50%. Strenuous movements involved in active sports require even more garment stretch and recovery. The drastic difference in between skin and fabric movement is due to restriction of movement to the wearer. Stretch fibre, yarn or fabric provides necessary elasticity for a garment to respond to every movement of the body and return to its original size and shape. The degree and direction of elasticity determines the end use of stretch garment. The most important property requirement for stretch garment is in the order of body comfort fit, breathability and durability. The commercial stretch fabric production methods are spandex core cotton spun yarn fabric and spandex plaited cotton fabric. So far, no comparative analysis has been made between these two commercial methods, in order to select the right fabric for specific sports end-use application. Objective The objective of the work is to compare the elastic and comfort characteristics of elastic knitted fabrics produced from two different commercial production methods. They are a) Spandex core cotton spun yarn converted knitted fabric b) Spandex back plaited cotton knitted fabric. In order to compare these two methods, the amount of spandex feed kept constant at both the cases.

Experimental methods
Spandex core cotton spun yarn fabric A core spun yarn is a structure composed of a separable core surrounded by fibre and suitable for use as a yarn. The manufacturing process consists of feeding filament to spinning unit where it covered by staple fibres (Figure 1). Normal core spun yarn manufacturing system is used to produce a stretch yarn by feeding spandex separately by feed roller arrangement. It is to be fed in the main drafting zone. Input spandex yarn tension and the draft applied to the core fibres decide the quality of the yarn. The spandex feed is kept at 7 percentage. Spandex back plaited cotton fabric It is a new concept, stretch fabric production only at the fabric formation not in the yarn stage. Bare spandex is directly fed along with normal yarn during knitting. Normal yarn and spandex is passed through the same feeder to form a loop and to produce a fabric. Normal knitting machine has special spandex feed attachment at the top of the machine for this plaited fabric production (Figure 2).

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Elastic knitted fabrics for tight fit sportswear | Nonwovens & Technical...

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The selected materials were fabricated on 21-inch diameter, 24-gauge circular knitting machine at the speed of 25 rpm. The amount of spandex feed was kept at 7%. Both commercial knitted fabrics were processed to heat setting at 200C temperature for 38 seconds at the speed of 30 rpm. These fabrics were dyed with Red CA dyes with 65C temperature and 7.5 PH. They are treated with compacting at the temperature of 94C. the finished stretch fabrics were tested for its comfort properties. Testing methods Stretch fabrics produced from two commercial production methods were tested for their stretch comfort - elastic properties (ASTM 2594), sweat management properties such as wetting (AATCC 79: 2000), wicking (BS 3424), water vapour transmission (ASTM E 96 - Cup Method) and air permeability (IS 110 56 - 1984).

The comparative analysis was made between two kinds of stretch fabrics and the results were discussed. Elastic stretch and recovery Fabric stretch and growth properties were determined as per ASTM 2594 procedure. A typical way of fabric stretch analysis was made to hank a fabric with the weight of five pounds for one minute. Then, the weight is removed to calculate fabric stretch. Further, the stretched fabric was left freely for five minutes. Now the fabric gets compresses again. It is to calculate fabric growth. Fabric stretch and growth can be calculated by the following formulae. Fabric stretch percentage = change in length/original length x 100 Fabric growth percentage = 100 recovery percentage Where, Recovery percentage = change in length [removal of 5 pound load]/original length x 100 Table 1: Elastic properties of stretch fabric

S Specification No Elastic stretch-wale (Max) 1 % Elastic stretch-course 2 (Max) % Elastic recovery-wale 3 (Max) % Elastic recovery4 course(Max)%

Spandex core cotton spun knitted fabric 95 120 90 87.78

Spandex back plaited cotton knitted fabric 108 130 95.5 93.34

Spandex back plaited cotton knitted fabrics (SBPC) have higher in elastic stretch and elastic recovery at both the sides (wale wise and course wise direction) than that of spandex core cotton spun knitted fabric (SCCS) due to higher stitch density of SBPC (SBPC: 4608 & SCCS: 3840 Loops per Square inch) knitted fabric. The higher stitch density is the evidence that the spandex in SBPC knitted fabric has higher residual and recovery energy than SCCS knitted fabric. That is the reason for higher stretch and recovery of the SBPC knitted fabric. The elastic recovery of both knitted fabrics were analysed at four level of elastic extension such as 20%, 30%, 40% and 50%. When the fabric elastic extension is increases from 20% to 50%, fabric elastic recovery is decreases for both the fabrics at both the directions. SBPC knitted fabric has higher elastic recovery than that of SCCS knitted fabric at both wale wise and course wise direction (Figure 3). SCCS fabric elastic recovery - course wise direction is higher than that of wale wise direction of the fabric. But, SBPC fabric elastic recovery - wale wise direction is higher than that of course wise direction of the fabric. Fabric growth percentage is calculated by 100 elastic recovery in percentage (Figure 4). Wetting time Fabric water absorbency is to measure the ability of the fabric to absorb a drop of water by spreading action. A fabric sample of size 10 x 10 cm was taken. A drop of water was allowed to fall on the flat fabric surface. Area has been kept constant for finding out water spreading in seconds. The height of water drop is controlled by a syringe, which contains one

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Elastic knitted fabrics for tight fit sportswear | Nonwovens & Technical...

http://www.indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=3627

ml of water. Table 2: Wetting test

S No 1 2

Specifications Wetting time (seconds) face Wetting time (seconds) back

SCCS 39.1 26.28

SBPC 150 175

SCCS knitted fabric absorbs a drop of water quicker than that of SBPC fabric due to cotton wrapped surface in the yarn peripheral. Further, SBPC fabric has lower inter yarn space due to higher stitch density. Longitudinal wicking test A 20 x 2 cm strip of test fabric was suspended vertically with its lower end (2 cm) immersed in a reservoir of distilled water for tracking the movement of water. In this method, the wick-up action of water spreading by capillary action was observed after ten minute at which the water moved upward on a strip of fabric. Rate of longitudinal wicking has been carried out for the two stretch fabrics at the interval of 1, 2, 3, 5 and 10 minute. SCCS fabric shows higher wicking rate than that of SBPC fabric in both the directions. It is may be due to cotton covered surface in the yarn peripheral. Similarly, the spandex in the SBPC fabric has lower the capillary pressure. Hence it has lower wicking rate. Moisture vapour transmission Moisture vapour transmission rate (MVT) in the speed or rate at which moisture vapour moves through a fabric. The ASTM E 96 moisture vapour test (open cup test) is used for measuring the moisture vapour transmission rate. The rate of water vapour that passes through the fabric was determined by two different methods. a) Reduction in the height of water in the cup Water was poured into cups up to 6 cm from base level. The cups were marked for every half centimetre. The fabric samples are placed tightly on top of the cups where the water, the air above the water and the room environment are at the same temperature and pressure. After 48 hrs the level of water decreased in the cups and the reduction in height of water was noted down. The moisture vapour transfer rate is the difference between the initial height of water and the actual height of water in the cups. b) Reduction in the weight of water in the cup After measuring the height of water in the cups after 48 hours, the fabrics were taken out from the top of the cups and the cups with water were weighed in an electronic balance and the reduced weight was noted down. The moisture vapour transfer rate is the difference between the initial weight of water and the actual weight of water in the cups after 48 hours. Moisture vapour transmission of SCCS and SBPC knitted fabrics are nearly equal value in both the weight and height method. So, MVT method is the independent property, which does not serve the purpose. Further, it is essential to measure MVT with respect to time. Air permeability test Fabric air permeability is the rate of air flow through the material under a differential pressure between the two faces of a fabric. It is expressed as the quantity of air, in cubic centimetre passing per second through a square centimetre of fabric. SCCS fabric has higher air permeability value than that of SBPC fabric due to higher stitch length (SBPC: 2.54 mm & SCCS: 2.63 mm) and lower fabric stitch density. Fabric air permeability is the inverse of air resistance. So, SCCS fabric has lower air resistance.

Spandex Core Cotton Spun fabric and Spandex Back Plaited Cotton knitted fabrics were compared and analysed for their comfort properties such as a) elastic properties b) Moisture management properties such as wetting, wicking, water vapour transmission and air permeability. It is very clear that the SCCS knitted fabric has quicker wetting, higher wicking rate and higher air permeability value than that of SBPC knitted fabric in all the cases. At the same time, SBPC knitted fabric has higher elastic stretch and higher recovery than that of SCCS fabric at all the cases. It is recommended that Spandex core cotton spun knitted fabrics are preferable for active sportswear like hockey, rugby and tennis. Similarly, Spandex back plaited cotton knitted fabrics are preferable for stretch sportswear for Javelin, shot-put and athletic sprint sports activities, in order to enhance the stamina, speed and power of the sports person.

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Elastic knitted fabrics for tight fit sportswear | Nonwovens & Technical...

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The authors thank the management of PSG College of Technology and Polytechnic College, Coimbatore for providing opportunity to publish the research work. Further, they also thank the students of PSG polytechnic College -- Ramkumar, Santhosh, Udayakumar, Raja Nagendran and Ms Safiya who helped carry out the work.

References
1. Hseyin Gazi Ortlek; Sukriye Ulku (2007): Effects of Spandex and Yarn Counts on the Properties of Elastic Core-spun Yarns produced on Murata Vortex Spinner, Textile Research Journal; 77, (6), 432 436. 2. C W Lou (2005): Production of a Polyester Core Spun Yarn with Spandex using a Multi-section Draw Frame and Ring Spinning Frame, Textile Research Journal, 75, (5), 395 401. 3. Ching-Iuan Su; Hsiao-Ying Yang (2004): Structure and Elasticity of Fine Elastomeric Yarns, Textile Research Journal, 74, (12), 1041 -1044 4. JiaHorng Lin and Ching Wen Chang (2004): Mechanical Properties of Highly Elastic Complex Yarns with Spandex Made by a Novel Rotor Twister, Textile Research Journal, 74 (6), 480 484. 5. A Bayazit Marmarali (2003): Dimensional and Physical Properties of Cotton/Spandex Single Jersey Fabrics, Textile Research Journal, 73, (1), 11 14. 6. A Mukhopathyay (2001): Impact of Lycra Filament on Extension and Recovery Characteristics of Cotton Knitted Fabric, Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, Vol 28, 12, 423 430. 7. J J F Knapton and W Fong (1968): The Dimensional Properties of Knitted Wool Fabrics, Textile Research Journal, Part I, 38, 999 1012. 8. Kentaro Kawasaki and Takayuki Ono (1966): Stretch Properties of Weft Knitted Fabrics, Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan, Vol 19, No 4, T112 117. 9. S M Ibrahim (1966): Mechanism of Stretch Development in Fabric Containing Spandex Yarn, Textile Research Journal, (8), 697 706. 10. J Voyce, P Dafniotis and S Towlson: Invista (Switzerland), Textiles in Sports Chapter 10: Elastic Textiles, 205 - 230. (Woodhead Publications). Note: For detailed version of this article please refer the print version of The Indian Textile Journal June 2011 issue. M Senthilkumar Department of Textile Technology, PSG Polytechnic College, Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu 641 004. Email: cmsenthilkumar@yahoo.com. Dr N Anbumani Department of Textile Technology, PSG Polytechnic College, Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu 641 004.
published June , 2011 back to Search Results | back to Features | back to Nonwovens & Technical Textiles

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