05 Step by Step Guide To Golf Club Assembly For The Absolute Beginner

Step by Step Guide to Golf Club Assembly for the Absolute Beginner
Step by Step Guide to Golf Club Assembly for the Absolute Beginner All Rights Reserved 1

Step by Step
Guide to
Golf Club Assembly
For the
Absolute Beginner



ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted for resale or use by any party other than the
individual purchaser who is the sole authorized user of this information. The purchaser is authorized to use any of the information in
this publication for his or her own use only. All other reproduction or transmission, or any form or by any means, electronic or
mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any informational storage or retrieval system, is prohibited without express
written permission from the publisher.

LEGAL NOTICES: While all attempts have been made to provide effective, verifiable information in this book, neither the author
nor the publisher assumes any responsibility for errors, inaccuracies, or omissions. Any slights of people or organizations are
unintentional. If advice on any legal matters is needed, the services of a qualified professional should be sought. This publication is
designed to provide accurate and authoritative information in regard to the subject matter covered. This book is sold with no
guarantees of profit or income. Many variables exist for each individuals success and this material makes no guarantee that every
individual will be successful. Kenneth P. Weir cannot be held responsible for any individuals results.

Published by: Kenneth P. Weir

ISBN: 978-0-578-00131-9

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA DISTRIBUTED WORLDWIDE

2008 Step by Step Guide to Golf Club Assembly for the Absolute Beginner, Kenneth P. Weir

Table of Contents

Introduction.4

Section 1
How an Iron Club Head is Made..5

Section 2
Tools and Supplies..8

Section 3
Iron Club Assembly..10

Section 4
Tip Trimming Instructions..16

Section 5
Measuring Loft & Lie21

Section 6
Measuring Swingweight.25

Section 7
Sole.27

Section 8
Center of Gravity...29

Section 9
Reference Tables31

Section 10
Definitions..38

Section 11
How a Wood Club Head is Made...41

Section 12
Tools and Supplies43

Section 13
Wood Club Assembly...46



Section 14
Tip Trimming Instructions..54

Section 15
Measuring Loft & Lie.58

Section 16
Hosel Bore Type.62

Section 17
Face Progression.64

Section 18
Hosel Bore..66

Section 19
Reference Tables68

Section 20
Putter Assembly.70

Section 21
Putter Specifications, Facts, & Myths75


Introduction

I would first like to start off by saying thank you for the purchase of this package Step by Step Guide
to Golf Club Assembly for the Absolute Beginner and also congratulate you for wanting to do
something different thats both exciting and rewarding.

In this guide you will learn how to assemble the different types of golf clubs in their simplest form.
You will also learn about the basic measurements, terms, and what each area of the club affects. As
you go through this guide please keep in mind that you may not understand everything the first time
through, thats why I encourage you to read this over a couple of times. Some people can
comprehend things faster than others.

This book is written to be basic and by this I mean that there is not a lot of fill-in information that will
lead you off on some wild goose hunt.

The golf industry is over a billion dollar a year business and most everyone I know enjoys the game,
so why not take advantage of that and do something you really love. At the same time you will be
learning things that no one else will know and soon when word gets out and youve even sold a few
sets, you will be the one everybody turns to for golf information and products.

So with that in mind please sit back and enjoy these books as you will not regret this purchase, and
most of all have fun.

Sincerely and Good Luck!
Ken Weir
Kenneth Weir

Section 1
How an Iron Club Head Is Made

Investment Casting and Forging are the two ways in which iron club heads are produced, which
we will quickly go over.

Investment Casting
Step 1: A craftsman will start with a solid piece of rectangular metal and after a series of grinding,
cutting on a lathe, and sanding, will a master model of the club head be formed. The master
model will have all the final specifications, such as loft, lie, hosel length, sole design, and any
letters, logos, and numbers that may need to be on the final club design.

Step 2: A master die is now formed from the master model and is made from a soft metal usually
aluminum or brass. The die will consist of two separate halves with a hollow inside that is
the exact same shape and size of the master model.

Step 3: A hot liquid wax is now poured into the die and allowed to dry and harden. After the wax is
completely hardened the die is split back into two pieces and the wax replica is removed.
This stage of the process it is repeated several times to mass-produce wax replicas. After a
number of wax replicas are produced they are affixed to an object called a tree or sprue.

Step 4: The tree or sprue is dipped into a liquid ceramic material with a gelling agent to aid in the
hardening. This is also repeated several times to get a good coating on the wax replicas.

Step 5: The tree is then placed into an oven and heated to around 1800
o
F, which allows the wax to
melt and run out of the ceramic mold.

Step 6: Molten metal is now poured into the empty shells where the wax replicas once were. When
the metal hardens the ceramic material is broken away from the tree leaving the metal cast
club heads still attached to the tree. The club heads are now cut from the tree using a special
type of saw.


Step 7: Most of the club heads are then heat treated to harden the outside surface. This is done by
heating the club heads and cooling them down fast, which causes the surface to form a
different structure, which is harder than the rest of the club head.

Forging
Step 1: The first step is to take a piece of metal thats cylinder in shape and heat it to roughly 2,000
o
F.
The pieces are then pounded into shape using a hydraulic press, which is done a number of
times.

Step 2: The pressing and pounding is done in what is called a negative die of the club head. The
negative die is quite larger than the club head should be and this is because of later shaping
steps to follow. A second press or machine trims the flashing away from the club head while
its still very hot.

Step 3: After the head cools, which is usually 48 hours or so, the club head is now cleaned with
chemicals to get off any dirt, dust, or any oxidation that may have occurred during the
cooling process.

Step 4: The club head is again heated to around 1,400
o
F and pressed again to start the raw forging
stage. The raw forging stage basically determines the club heads characteristics such as loft,
sole, lie, and what type of back it will have, cavity or blade. At this stage the forging is still a
little bigger than what the final club head size will be.

Step 5: The heads are now weighed to the final specification tolerances, which are around +10/-0
grams, and any head that is underweight will be discarded or recycled.


Step 6: The hosels are now formed to their final outside diameters using special precision lathes.
Some grinding and sanding are done at this point to blend any rough edges where the
bottom of the hosel meets the heel and the back portion of the face. The hosels are now
drilled to create the bore size and depth to exact specifications.

Step 7: The faces are now ground and sanded to meet their specifications. Some more grinding and
sanding will also achieve the final weight. The weight is checked very often during this step
because if too much weight is removed and the club head becomes lighter than the
specification then the club head is rejected.

Step 8: Any numbers or logos are now stamped onto the club if need be and the face lines are
stamped by yet another stamping machine.

Step 9: The loft and lie are checked and adjusted if necessary and a final inspection is done to ensure
the heads meet all the specifications set by the company.

Step 10: The heads are now complete as far as the forging process is concerned and its off to the
tumblers where they will be vibrated in a substance consisting of grit made of plastic
pellets or rock based material. This will clean, polish, and remove any irregularities that
the club may have.

Step 11: After the tumblers, the club heads are now polished with very fine paper, nylon, or fabric
belts and then buffed to a nice shine. The club heads are now chrome plated, which will
give the club head a nice finish.

Step 12: The club head is now taped with a electrical type of tape except the areas where more work
is to be done. The score lines on the face are now sandblasted to give a little extra grip on
the ball. Letters, logos, and numbers are now paint filled. One more final inspection and
the club head makes its way off to be assembled.


Section 2
Tools and Supplies

In this section I would like to go over some tools and supplies you will need to get started assembling
iron golf clubs. You may already have some of these items lying around your house, so it shouldnt
hurt you to bad financially. The flip side is that you may have to purchase some of the necessities in
order to get started. After you become good at this you may want to visit some online golf supply
stores and upgrade on some tools and supplies to make life easier and become more precise with
measurements.

2-1: Organize your tools and supplies out on a workbench before you get started.

Lets start explaining each one and what role they play in assembling iron golf clubs.

1. The most used tool that you use will probably be the bench vise. This will hold many
components for you. Its a good idea to get rubber clamps so when holding components you
do not scratch or dent them.
2. The ruler is a good tool, as you will need this to take shaft measurements. Make sure its at
least 48 long.

3. You will need a micrometer to measure shaft, hosel, and grip diameters. This may be the
second most used tool that you use. You may have to purchase these and should only cost
around $20.00 to $60.00.
4. The file is another good tool to have. With this tool you will be filing the shafts after being cut.
You will also need a fine file to form your ferrule.
5. The plumbers tube cutter is a tool that you will use to cut steel shafts. If cutting graphite
shafts a hacksaw is the best tool.
6. A felt tip marker is a must for marking different components for measurements.
7. A drill and metal countersink tool is required for doing countersinking on the hosels of club
heads if dealing with graphite shafts.
8. 180 grit sandpaper is used to sand the ferrule to shape. This can also be used to score the end
of the steel shafts for better bonding with the epoxy.
9. There is a special tool included with this book, which is the grip installation tool. This tool will
make your life a lot easier when installing grips.
10. A utility knife comes in handy when scoring a graphite shaft for installation into a club head
hosel.
11. Masking tape is used to protect the shaft and hosel from scratches when working on the
ferrule. It can also be used to pad a grip to make it bigger.
12. Epoxy is a two-part chemical that creates a strong metal like adhesive to bond the shaft to the
hosel.
13. Acetone is used for many purposes. You can use this for clean up, and making your ferrule
shiny again after working it with the file and sandpaper. You can also use acetone for a
solvent when installing your grips.
14. Grip tape is used for grip installations. Also known as double-sided tape.
15. A paint pan is good for catching solvent when installing the grips. In most cases the solvent
can be reused for other grip installations.

You can go to any online golf retail supply store and look around for tools and supplies that would
make your life a lot easier.


Section 3
Iron Club Assembly

In this section we will go over both verbal and illustrated instructions on how to assemble an iron
golf club. Please remember that this guide is designed to get you started in the golf club assembly
business in a quick and informational manner. There is not a lot of unnecessary fill-in information
included in this guide.

3-1: Organize your tools, supplies, and
components out on a workbench before
you get started. This will allow you to
work in a nice flow and should limit your
mistakes.
3-2: Inspect each of your components for
any design and cosmetic flaws. Make sure
the components are what you ordered.
3-3: Measure your hosel ID to see if it will
accept the shaft you will be installing.

3-4: After tip trimming measure your
shafts tip to see if it will fit properly into
the club heads hosel.
For tip trimming instructions see section
4.
3-5: Temporarily install your shaft into the
club heads hosel to make sure it will
penetrate all the way to the bottom of the
hosel. If it doesnt you may have to clean
the hosel with a pipe cleaner or drill bit
thats the same size as the hosel ID.
3-6: To measure the area of the shafts tip
that will need abraded, place the shaft all
the way inside the hosel and mark just
above the top of the hosel.



3-7: Abrade the shaft using a piece of
sandpaper, usually 180 grit. Or if you have
a little bit of a budget purchase yourself a
sanding machine.
3-8: You should be just scoring the outside
coating. This is done for the epoxy to have
a good solid bonding surface.
3-9: When dealing with graphite shafts its
a good idea to countersink the top of the
hosel. This will allow epoxy to fill this
area for extra cushion. It has been known
for the tip of a graphite shaft to break at
this point due to the stress applied from
the sharp edge of the top inside hosel.

3-10: This is a picture of a hosel that has
been countersunk.
3-11: To abrade a graphite shaft it is a
good practice to use a utility knife. Place
the knife horizontal and score down gently
not to disturb the fibers. You only want to
take the coating off. This will provide a
good bonding surface for the epoxy.
3-12: If the iron you are assembling have a
square top hosel then a ferrule is
recommended. If your club head is
rounded at the top of the hosel then a
ferrule is not needed. This is a picture of
both types. The hosel to the right is
rounded and the one to the left is square.

NOTE: A ferrules job has two functions, one is to provide a smooth transition from the bigger hosel
diameter to the smaller diameter of the shafts tip, and two is to keep the dirt and dust out of the hosel
so it doesnt affect the integrity of the epoxy.



3-13: More than likely the ferrule your
installing is going to be tight fitting. You
may need to use some acetone to help
lubricate it. Simply take the ferrule place it
in the spout of the can and place your
finger over the end and tilt upside down
for a few seconds to get the inside of the
ferrule nice and wet with acetone.
3-14: Slide the ferrule over the shaft far
enough so the shaft will fit all the way
down in the hosel. This will allow the
ferrule to be out of the way when dealing
with the epoxy.
3-15: Now its time to mix up the two part
epoxy.

3-16: Start by mixing the two-part epoxy
evenly. This will create a good reaction
and provide a good adhesive for the metal
to bond to.
3-17: When finished mixing dip the tip of
the shaft in while turning it to get a good
amount on the tip.
3-18: Install the shaft into the hosel turning
as you move up and down. This allows
the epoxy to evenly coat the entire tip.

3-19: Wipe any excess epoxy off the hosel
and ferrule. Make sure you get it all, as it
will be harder to get off later after its
cured. Allow to cure for 24 hours.
3-20: At this point the ferrule will
probably be bigger than the hosel. Wrap
some masking tape around the hosel and
shaft to protect them while you file.
3-21: File the ferrule so its flush with the
tape. Make sure to go around the ferrule
evenly so you dont create big flat spots.


3-22: When finished filing sand the flat
spots down using 180 grit sandpaper.
3-23: Filing and sanding will make the
ferrule look dull, but dont be alarmed we
will fix that in a minute. For now take
some steel wool (000) and smooth out any
remaining scratches or flat spots that may
be left.
3-24: You can now remove the tape. Take
some acetone on a paper towel and wipe
the ferrule down to bring back the shine.

Now lets cut the club to length. Getting Closer!

3-25: Place the club in its proper resting
position (sole of the club on the ground).
Place the ruler behind it so that it touches
the ground right behind the heel.
3-26: Mark the shaft to the final length. 3-27: Use a tube cutter to cut the shaft at
the desired point.

NOTE: Refer to section 9 for tables on standard final club lengths.

Now, on to installing grips.


3-28: Place the shaft into the vise (using
rubber clamps) with the face of the club
pointed vertically upward.
Note: You will need to use some type of
catching device for the excess solvent.
3-29: Place the grip next to the butt end of
the shaft to get an idea of where you want
the tape to end. Remember to allow 1/8
at the end for the grip cap.
3-30: Mark a line where the grip will start.

3-31: Using your double-sided tape place
two pieces opposite of each other to get a
good coating of tape around the entire
diameter of the shaft.
3-32: Remember to extend the tape beyond
the butt end by about a inch. This will not
allow solvent to get inside the shaft when
installing the grip.
3-33: Tuck the extended tape into the butt
end of the shaft.

3-34: Once you have affixed the tape to the
shaft, go ahead and coat the inside of the
shaft with solvent by placing your finger
over the hole thats in the butt end of the
grip. This will stop any solvent from
leaking out.
3-35: Pour the solvent inside the grip to
of the way.
3-36: Squeeze the open end of the grip
with your other hand and shake. This is
done to coat the inside of the grip
thoroughly.


3-37: Pour the solvent from the inside of
the grip onto the taped section of the shaft.
Note: Its a good idea to have something
in place to catch the excess solvent. You
can reuse the solvent if desired.
3-38: Take the tool provided and insert it
onto the small end (fingers) about 1/3 of
the way up.
3-39: Take the big end of the tool and slide
it over the shaft. At the same time you
may have to twist a little to get it started.

3-38: Once you have the grip started onto
the shaft, simply pull the tool out from the
grip and finish pushing the grip on. You
can do this by pushing at both ends of the
grip.
3-39: Once you have it on all the way, you
only have about 3 minutes to align the
letters or logo on the grip with the leading
edge of the face before the tape and solvent
set enough you cant work the grip. Allow
the grip to set for at least 24 hours.
3-40: Apply the shaft band if one is
available. When applying the shaft band
make sure its also in line with the grips
letters or logos, and the leading edge of the
face.

Congratulations, you have just built your first club!

Make sure to clean the metal real good before attempting to sell. Make it look like one of a kind.

Section 4
Tip Trimming

Lets go over the 3 different kinds of golf shafts that there are. This will give you a better
understanding of what you are doing when it comes to trimming the tip. The 3 types of shafts are
Parallel Tip Steel Shaft, Taper Tip Steel Shaft, and Graphite Shaft.

4-1: This is a diagram of the two different steel golf shafts and their parts. You will notice that the tapered tip shaft differs from the
parallel tip shaft by; yep you guessed it, the tip and the tips diameter.

Parallel Tip Steel Shaft:
The parallel tip shaft has no diameter change from the tip to the first step. This allows the tip to be
trimmed for final club length, as the number of club gets shorter. The parallel tip shafts are a tad bit
lighter than tapered tip shafts and usually come in a .370 diameter tip.

Tapered Tip Steel Shaft:
The tapered tip golf shaft will usually get abraded and get installed directly into the club heads hosel
and then butt trimmed to length. The tip of the tapered shaft will usually come in a .355 diameter
size. The tapered tip shaft does however change size from the tip to the first step by usually 7
thousandths of an inch per inch up the tip end to the first step.

NOTE: All shafts come with easy to understand tip-trimming instructions.
Butt end of the shaft where the grip
gets installed. This is where the
butt end diameter gets measured.
Butt Diameter
Step Length
First Step
Parallel Tip Shaft.
No Tip Diameter Change
Tapered Tip Shaft.
Tip Diameter Change


Graphite Shaft:
Graphite shafts are easy to understand, as they will come with their own discrete trimming
instructions for the different club numbers and flexs. They also do not change diameter size by step
increments.

Here are a couple of tips to before getting started with the actual tip trimming instructions.

Always butt trim club to final length after you tip trim and install the club.
Tapered tip shafts never should be tip trimmed because they come in discrete lengths
according to the club number.

Lets move on to tip trimming a shaft. Lets say I have a 60-degree wedge club head with a hosel bore
ID of .370. I should have a parallel tip shaft with a .370 shaft tip or .355 if its a tapered tip shaft. I
have chosen a parallel tip shaft so I can show you the tip trimming steps.

This is an example of what you may find on a dealers or
manufacturers website on tip trimming instructions for parallel
shafts.
Notice that for a wedge you must trim 4 of the tip for either of
the three flex specifications.
Flex #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9 Wedges
R300 0 1/2 1 1 1/2 2 2 1/2 3 3 1/2 4 4 1/4
S300 0 1/2 1 1 1/2 2 2 1/2 3 3 1/2 4 4 1/4
X100 0 1/2 1 1 1/2 2 2 1/2 3 3 1/2 4 4 1/4

4-2: When you ordered your golf shaft you should have ordered
it to fit into an iron club head and if you ordered a parallel tip
shaft it should be .370 tip diameter. You will be able to tell by the
description in the catalog or over the web. Notice the two
highlighted circles, which indicate a .370 tip, and some other
vital information.
This picture is out of a reputable companys catalog.
4-3: Look at the trimming instructions that came with your golf
shaft. You should see a tip trimming measurement for the club
youre assembling.
Note: You can also get this information on the manufacturers
website.
One more thing to notice is the different flex of the shafts R, S, and
X. These will tip trim the same because the stiffness is built into
the golf shaft itself. When you order the shaft you will need to
specify the flex you desire.

Looking at iron
shafts.

NOTE: Each shaft will come with tip trimming instructions. Always remember that you can get the
information needed from the manufacturers website. Take a look, hop onto a known shaft
manufacturers website and find the tip trimming instructions for their shaft types. You should find
the tip trimming instructions under the technical area of the website.

Lets look at what we have so far. We now have a parallel tip shaft made for an iron club with a .370
tip diameter. We also know that we have to tip trim 4 of the tip for the wedge.

Lets move on to the actual tip trimming.

4-4: Once you have your tip trimming
instructions, measure up the shaft from the
tip (in this case its 4 ) and mark a line
with a felt tip marker.
4-5: Once you have the mark, go ahead
and cut the shaft using a plumbers pipe
cutter.
Note: When putting your components in
a vise its highly recommended that you
use rubber clamps. This will eliminate
any scratching or denting caused by the
metal jaws of the vise.
4-6: File any sharp edges that the tube
cutter left.

4-7: When measuring a graphite shaft,
measure up the shaft and wrap 2 layers of
masking tape around the area to be cut.
This will eliminate damage to the fibers
from the cutting process.
4-8: This is a picture of what damaged
fibers look like on a graphite shaft. This
voids the warranty and damages the
integrity of the shafts performance.
4-8: Use a hacksaw blade to cut through
the tape and then the graphite.


Lets talk about the flex of a golf shaft. There are five ratings for shaft flex:
1. Extra Stiff = X
2. Stiff = S
3. Regular = R
4. Senior = A
5. Ladies = L

The flex of a shaft can affect a couple of important things in the golf swing, accuracy, trajectory, and
distance.
When tip trimming your golf shafts keep in mind that if you mistakenly trim your shafts incorrectly it
will affect the shafts flex. For example lets say you are suppose to take 3 off the tip and you take 4
you have just changed your shafts flex to a stiffer flex. If you tip trim a tapered tip shaft, it may not
fit into the hosel therefore it will cause you to drill the bore out slightly bigger to accept the bigger
diameter of the shafts tip.

So tip trimming is important!

Always measure twice and cut once.

Always follow the suggested manufacturers instructions.

Hope this helps in the shaft tip trimming area.

Lets talk real quick on how the bore types of iron club heads will affect the tip trimming instructions.
Most shaft manufacturers base their trimming instructions on standard bore types. A standard bore
type is a bore of an iron club head hosel that bottoms out at 1 from the curved part of the heel.
There is another bore type that bottoms out around 1/4 from the curved part of the heel and this is
called a through bore. If dealing with a through bore you will need to trim less then what the tip
trimming instructions call for. So its a good idea to always know what bore type you are dealing
with. See figure 4-9 for measuring bore type and figure 4-10 for tip trimming instructions.


4-9: This picture illustrates how to determine what type of bore
you have. This would be a standard bore.
4-10: This picture illustrates how to determine what type of bore
you have. This would be a through bore.

So lets say the instructions call for you to tip trim 3. This is for a standard bore. Now lets say you
have a through bore, you would now tip trim 2 to keep the same flex as you would with a 3 tip
trim. The further down the hosel bore the shaft goes the stiffer the flex is.

4-11: Follow these instructions to determine what type of bore you are
dealing with.
Measure hosel length and the bore depth.
Now take your hosel length minus your bore depth and you will get the back
of heel to shafts tip dimension.
1
1
1/4
2 1/4
Hosel Length
Bore Depth
?

Section 5
Measuring Loft & Lie

First lets talk about loft and how it pertains to the iron club. The loft is responsible for the trajectory
of the golf ball as the club head strikes it. The trajectory is simply how high or low the golf balls
flight path is.

Iron clubs are not measured in the same way that wood clubs are. One reason for this is the sole
design. The sole designs of iron clubs come in many shapes and sizes so the constantly of the sole
from club to club gets thrown out the window.

To properly measure an iron club heads loft you simply take the degree from the centerline of the
hosel to the face. Figure 5-1 shows how this is done.

5-1: This picture illustrates how to properly measure the loft of an iron
club head.

Unfortunately is quite hard to measure loft with a common protractor. Although you can get close it
will most likely not be the exact measurement of loft. There are however special measuring tools that
can be bought for measuring loft and lie, and these may be expensive. I would suggest that you
assemble a few clubs before going out and purchasing one of these machines. The cost of these
machines can be from $150.00 to $800.00.
90 Degree
Sole Line
Ground Line
Degree of
Loft


Lets measure a few clubs using a protractor.

5-2: Most protractors will have a hole in the center of the 90-
degree area on the bottom of the ruler part. Take this hole and
line it up with the middle of the hosel and shaft. This is a picture
of a 5 iron with a manufacturers specification of 25 degrees.
5-3: As you can see we are very close to the manufacturers
specification by just using a protractor. Again this is not going to
be a exact measurement because of the variations of the sole line.
But this will get you in the ballpark.

5-4: This picture takes a look at another club, a 60-degree wedge. 5-5: Again we are very close to what the manufacturers
specification is, which is 60 degrees.

Again this is not going to be an exact loft measurement but will get you in the ballpark. Go to the
online golf stores and price loft measuring machines once you are ready to take your skill to the next
level.
Other specifications that affect loft are, Face Progression, Center of Gravity, and Shaft Flex. You will
read about these later.
Arrow
points to
the hole in
the
protractor.
Hole of protractor lined up with
centerline of hosel.

Now lets talk about lie and how it affects the iron golf club. Lie directly affects the golf balls
direction, as it is the horizontal position of the club head at impact. To understand this a little better
refer to figure 5-6.

5-6: This is a look at how the lie angle will affect the golf balls direction.

Lie is basically measured from the center of the shaft or hosel and the sole at the resting position. See
figure 5-7 for an illustrated example.

5-7: This picture shows how to actually measure the lie angle of an iron
golf club.
Target
Target
Target
Sole / Ground Line
Lie Angle Too Upright
Lie Angle is Correct
Lie Angle Too Flat
Degree
of Lie

Again when using a protractor to measure certain specifications take in mind that it probably will not
be an exact measurement but rather to get you in the ball park. To use a protractor to measure lie
follow the directions below in the following figures.

5-8: Place the sole flat on the ground line while placing the
protractor in front of it with center hole on the heel portion of the
club head. Remember to place the hole where the hosel starts to
curve into the sole.
5-9: Take the measurement from the center of the hosel or shaft.
In the picture I am measuring a 5 iron and the standard lie is 61.5
degrees. When measuring the 5 iron, I came up with the same
measurement.

5-10: Here Im measuring the lie of an wedge in the same manner
as the 5 iron.
5-11: The wedge has a standard lie of 64 degrees, which again I
came up with pretty much the same.


Section 6
Measuring Swingweight

Swingweight is basically how your clubs feel when swinging them. An easy definition of
swingweight can be simply summed up as the relationship of the weight distribution from the club
head end to the grip end. The higher the swingweight of a club can be determined by a amount of
weight in the club head as opposed to the amount of weight in the grip end.

Swingweight is measured or expressed in arbitrary values such as D-0, D-1, D2, with the lower the
letter/number the lighter the swingweight value. This means that a club with a D-0 value will have a
smaller club head to grip end weight ratio than a club with a D-1 value.

To measure swingweight you would need a swingweight scale. All swingweight scales these days
are based on a 14 fulcrum point. A fulcrum points definition is a point at which something
balances. All of the weight from the balancing point (14 fulcrum point) to the club head is
considered to be head weight.

6-1: This figure shows what a typical swingweight scale would look like.

It roughly takes about 5 grams of weight on either end of the club to bring the swingweight up or
down one swingweight.

For example if you have a club with a swingweight of D-0, and you place 5 grams on the club head
you would increase that swingweight to a D-1. Just the opposite would happen if you place 5 grams
on the grip end of the club, you would now bring that swingweight down to a C-9. Starting to
understand the relationship yet?

There are a lot of potential changes to a club that would affect the swingweight:
Bigger or smaller grip
New shaft, especially if you go from a steel shaft to a graphite shaft.
Changing the length of a club.
The balancing point of a shaft will affect the swingweight.

A swingweight scale can come in different shapes and sizes as well as models. You will have your
basic swingweight scales that are as cheap as $39.95 to the most versatile scales at $399.99. You can
get scales to weigh individual components as well and it all depends on how serious you will get
with your new hobby.

Section 7
Iron Club Sole

The sole of the club is the part underneath that touches the ground in the resting position. The sole
has a couple of characteristics that we will discuss in further detail as this section goes on. The sole of
the iron club is designed to glide through the turf without twisting or dragging through impact to
maintain the same direction path as was laid down in the rest position. In figure 7-1 you can clearly
see the three different style soles an iron club may have.

7-1: The three different style soles of iron club heads are listed above.

Sole Width:
Sole width is the measurement from the leading edge to the trailing edge or front to back. See the
first picture in figure 7-1 for a description.

Sole Camber:
Sole camber is the curvature of the sole from the leading edge (front) to the trailing edge (back). See
the middle picture in figure 7-1 for a description.
Conventional or Flat Sole Cambered / Radius Sole Bounce / Inverted Sole
Sole Width Sole Camber


Bounce Sole:
When talking about bounce sole, it usually refers to a wedge (PW, LW, GW, or SW). This is where
the trailing edge is lower then the leading edge at normal rest position. The bounce angle of a wedge
is designed for sand and high grass. This is what keeps the club from digging too deep in sand and
getting hung up by tall grass. You can measure bounce angle as seen in figure 7-2.

7-2: The following picture shows how to measure the bounce
angle of an iron club.

You can say that the bounce angle of a iron club is 90 degrees the degree from the centerline of the
hosel to the sole line in the resting position = the bounce angle. Or for a numeric equation you would
see something like this: 90
o
84
o
= 6
o
. Most bounce angles are between 6 and 15 degrees.
90
o

Bounce Angle
84
o

6
o


Section 8
Center of Gravity

Another variable in controlling ball trajectory is the location of the center of gravity. For example the
lower the center of gravity the higher the trajectory, and the higher the center of gravity the lower the
trajectory will be.

8-1: This picture illustrates the affect of the center of gravity has on the golf balls trajectory.

To measure the center of gravity you must remove the club head, balance it, and mark it. You cannot
look at a club head and assume you know where the center of gravity is.

8-2: This picture shows how to locate the center of gravity on a iron head. To actually realize where the center of gravity is on a club
head you must mark it and visually look at it from all angles.

Low Center of Gravity

Middle Center of Gravity

High Center of Gravity
Low Center of Gravity
Middle Center of Gravity
High Center of Gravity


8-3: The picture above shows how to measure the center gravity of two different club heads. You will notice that the distance from the
leading edge to the center of gravity is different from club to club, but the distance from the ground line to the center of gravity is the
same and should be the same in a set of irons.

There are a lot of variables that will affect the center of gravity such as:
Hosel Length.
Hosel Diameter.
Hosel Bore Depth.
Loft Angle.
Blade Thickness.
Blade Length.
Toe and Heel Height.

Another fact to keep in mind is the ball will always contact the clubs face lower then the center of
gravity when hit properly. Keep in mind that as the club number gets smaller the ball will contact
the ball lower then a higher club. For example a 9 iron will contact the ball at point lower on the face
than a 3 iron, and this is due to the loft angle.
1 1/16 13/16
5/8
5/8

Section 9
Reference Tables

Standard Final Iron Club Lengths:
Iron # Mens Standard Ladies Standard
1 39.5 38
2 39 37.5
3 38.5 37
4 38 36.5
5 37.5 36
6 37 35.5
7 36.5 35
8 36 34.5
9 35.5 34
PW 35.5 34
SW 35.5 34
All lengths are measured in inches.
9-1: This is a table of todays standard club lengths for both Men and
Women.

9-2: Remember that when measuring the final club length with a
grip you want to measure at the point around 1/8 of an inch
below the grip cap, which is usually indicated by a line before the
end of the grip. In this case this is a wedge with a final
measurement of 35 .
9-3: And remember to start your measuring from the start of the
curved section at the toe of the club head. This is the point at
which the hosel turns into the toe of the club head.
Refer to section 3, figure 3-25 for instructions.


Here is some tip trimming charts from True Temper, who in my opinion has the most selection of
iron shafts available. Remember these are for irons only, for wood trimming instructions refer to the
second book Quick Guide to Wood Club Assembly for charts. If you select another iron shaft
from another company, remember that the shaft will come with its own tip trimming instructions and
measurements. You will also find available the individual shaft tip trimming instructions from each
manufacturers website.

Remember that when dealing with tapered tip shafts, always butt trim to final length and no tip
trimming is necessary. You can also find all shaft types and tip trimming instructions through the
manufacturers websites.

1. True Temper Iron shaft tip trimming Instructions:
Dynamic Gold Parallel Irons & Dynamic Gold SL
Iron Trim Length
1 0
2 .5
3 1
4 1.5
5 2
6 2.5
7 3
8 3.5
9 4
PW 4.25
SW 4.25

GS 75
Iron Trim Length
3 0
4 .5
5 1
6 1.5
7 2
8 2.5
9 3
PW 3.25
SW 3.25


Black Gold
Iron Trim Length
1 0
2 .5
3 1
4 1.5
5 2
6 2.5
7 3
8 3.5
9 4
PW 4.5
SW 5

Dynalite Gold & Dynalite Gold SL
Iron Trim Length
1 0
2 .5
3 1
4 1.5
5 2
6 2.5
7 3
8 3.5
9 4
PW 4.25
SW 4.25

TT Lite XL
TT Lite with Standard Bore TT Lite with Through Bore TT Lite A/L Parallel Irons
Flex R S Flex R S Flex L A
Iron Iron Iron
1 1 3 1 0 2 1 0 1
2 1.5 3.5 2 .5 2.5 2 .5 1.5
3 2 4 3 1 3 3 1 2
4 2.5 4.5 4 1.5 3.5 4 1.5 2.5
5 3 5 5 2 4 5 2 3
6 3.5 5.5 6 2.5 4.5 6 2.5 3.5
7 4 6 7 3 5 7 3 4
8 4.5 6.5 8 3.5 5.5 8 3.5 4.5
9 5 7 9 4 6 9 4 5
PW 5.25 7.25 PW 4.25 6.25 PW 4.25 5.25
SW 5.25 7.25 SW 4.25 6.25 SW 4.25 5.25
For details on standard bore and through bore, refer to section 4, figures 4-9 through 4-11.

Dynalite Parallel Irons
Dynalite Combo R/S Parallel Irons Dynalite Combo A/L Parallel Irons
Flex S R Flex A L
Iron Iron
1 2 0 1 1 0
2 2.5 .5 2 1.5 .5
3 3 1 3 2 1
4 3.5 1.5 4 2.5 1.5
5 4 2 5 3 2
6 4.5 2.5 6 3.5 2.5
7 5 3 7 4 3
8 5.5 3.5 8 4.5 3.5
9 6 4 9 5 4
PW 6.25 4.25 PW 5.25 4.25
SW 6.25 4.25 SW 5.25 4.25

Dynamic Gold Lite
Iron Trim Length
1 0
2 .5
3 1
4 1.5
5 2
6 2.5
7 3
8 3.5
9 4
PW 4.25
SW 4.25

TX-90
Iron Trim Length
1 0
2 .5
3 1
4 1.5
5 2
6 2.5
7 3
8 3.5
9 4
PW 4.25
SW 4.25

Release
Mens Ladies
Iron Trim Length Trim Length
1 1 0
2 1.5 .5
3 2 1
4 2.5 1.5
5 3 2
6 3.5 2.5
7 4 3
8 4.5 3.5
9 5 4
PW 5.25 4.25
SW 5.25 4.25

Dynamic (Combo Parallel Irons)
Flex S R
1 2 0
2 2.5 .5
3 3 1
4 3.5 1.5
5 4 2
6 4.5 2.5
7 5 3
8 5.5 3.5
9 6 4
PW 6.25 4.25
SW 6.25 4.25

Custom Lite (Combo)
Custom Lite Combo A/L Parallel Custom Lite Combo R/S Parallel
Flex / Iron L Soft A Firm A Flex / Iron Soft R Firm R Soft S Firm S
1 0 1 2 1 0 1 2 3
2 .5 1.5 2.5 2 .5 1.5 2.5 3.5
3 1 2 3 3 1 2 3 4
4 1.5 2.5 3.5 4 1.5 2.5 3.5 4.5
5 2 3 4 5 2 3 4 5
6 2.5 3.5 4.5 6 2.5 3.5 4.5 5.5
7 3 4 5 7 3 4 5 6
8 3.5 4.5 5.5 8 3.5 4.5 5.5 6.5
9 4 5 6 9 4 5 6 7
PW 4.25 5.25 6.25 PW 4.25 5.25 6.25 7.25
SW 4.25 5.25 6.25 SW 4.25 5.25 6.25 7.25

TX Tour
Flex X R / S
1 0 0
2 0 .5
3 .5 1
4 1 1.5
5 1.5 2
6 2 2.5
7 2.5 3
8 3 3.5
9 3.5 4
PW 3.75 4.25
SW 3.75 4.25

Loft.
Iron Mens Standard Ladies Standard
1 16 -
2 19 20
3 22 23
4 25 26
5 28 30
6 32 34
7 36 38
8 40 42
9 44 46
PW 48 50
SW 55 56
All lofts are in degrees.
For individual loft of an iron club when purchased check the specification sheet to see what the actual loft is. This is
just a reference table for standard lofts.


Lie.
Iron Mens Standard Ladies Standard
1 57 53
2 57 54
3 58 55
4 58 56
5 59 57
6 59 58
7 60 59
8 60 60
9 61 61
PW 61 61
SW 61 61
All lies are in degrees.
For individual lie of an iron club when purchased check the specification sheet to see what the actual lie is. This is
just a reference table for standard lies.


Section 10
Golf Terms and Definitions

Here is a list of some of the more important golf terms and their definitions:

1. Blades: These types of irons are also called Muscle Back irons and have most of the
weight behind the center of the face. These are mainly for the more experienced golfers who
like to shape their shots. These types of irons are very unforgiving to the average player.

2. Cavity Back: This type of iron has the weight distributed through the perimeter of the club
head. You can tell this type of club by the indented area in the back of the club head.

3. Center of Gravity: This is where the club will balance. The center of gravity directly affects
the balls trajectory.

4. Club Head: This is the heavier metal part of the golf club that strikes the golf ball. Its
location is opposite the grip end of the club.

5. Loft: This is simply the angle of the clubface measured in degrees.

6. Bounce Sole: The sole type in which the trailing edge is lower then the leading edge when
the club is in the resting position.

7. Cambered Sole: This is the measurement of the radius of sole. This type of sole is usually
rounded from front to back.

8. Cast Iron: This is a iron club head made by a process called Investment casting and the iron
is made in a one-piece method.

9. Club Head Face: This is the part of the club head that directly comes in contact with the golf
ball, well for most players.

10. Ferrule: This is the plastic trim ring that provides a smooth transition from the bigger
diameter of the hosel to the smaller diameter of the shaft.

11. Forge Club Head: This is a club head in which the process of production is stamping and
pounding the club head into shape from a solid piece of metal using hydraulic presses.

12. Heel: This is the back portion of the club head where the hosel is.

13. Hosel: This is the part of the club head that the shaft is inserted and affixed with epoxy.

14. Hosel ID: The inside diameter of the hosel. This is measured in inches and will be in the
thousandths. (.370, .355)

15. Hosel Depth: The distance from the top of the hosel to the bottom of the hosel.

16. Lie: The angle of the shaft to the ground thats measured in degrees while the club is in its
rested position.

17. Offset: This is the distance from the most forward spot on the hosel to the leading edge of
the face.

18. Sole: The bottom section of the club head. This is the part that rests on the ground in the
resting position.



10-1: In this picture you will see where the specific areas of a club head are and what they refer to.
Shaft
Ferrule
Heel
Hosel
Sole
Face
Toe
Grooves
Back

Section 11
How A Wood Club Head is Made

Wood club heads are made in the same exact fashion as iron heads are, in using the investment
casting process. The only exception is that wood club heads are cast in two separate pieces, the sole
and the hollow shell. After these pieces are cast the sole plate is welded onto the hollow shell and
then grinded and sanded. If you pick up a commercial club at a retail shop you would never know
that the club head was cast in two separate pieces.

1-1: This is a picture of a hollow shell and soleplate before
being welded together.

Investment Casting:
Step 1: A craftsman will start with a solid piece of rectangular metal for the hollow shell and a piece
of flattened steel for the soleplate. After a series of grinding, cutting on a lathe, and sanding,
will a master model of the two-piece club head be formed. The master models will have all
the final specifications, such as loft, lie, hosel length, sole design, and any letters, logos, and
numbers that may need to be on the final club design.

Step 2: A master die is now formed from the master models and is made from a soft metal usually
aluminum or brass. The die will consist of two separate halves with a hollow inside that is
the exact same shape and size of the master models.


Step 3: A hot liquid wax is now poured into the die and allowed to dry and harden. After the wax is
completely hardened the die is split back into two pieces and the wax replica is removed.
This stage of the process it is repeated several times to mass-produce wax replicas. After a
number of wax replicas are produced they are affixed to an object called a tree or sprue.

Step 4: The tree or sprue is dipped into a liquid ceramic material with a gelling agent to aid in the
hardening. This is also repeated several times to get a good coating on the wax replicas.

Step 5: The tree is then placed into an oven and heated to around 1800
o
F, which allows the wax to
melt and run out of the ceramic mold.

Step 6: Molten metal is now poured into the empty shells where the wax replicas once were. When
the metal hardens the ceramic material is broken away from the tree leaving the metal cast
club heads still attached to the tree. The club heads are now cut from the tree using a special
type of saw.

Step 7: This is where the hollow shell and soleplate get welded together. They then go through a
series of grinding and sanding to eliminate the weld marks where the soleplate meets the
hollow shell.

Step 8: The wood club heads are sometimes filled with a foam substance in order to dampen the
vibration and help with final weight specifications. The larger club heads are usually not
filled with foam, as the final weight would be higher than needed resulting in a rejected club
head.

Step 9: The final step is finishing the wood club heads. They will most often get a painted finish
somewhat like a car gets painted and protected with a urethane coating. Now its off to the
parent company to be sold to you, and you assemble it and sell to the happy customer of
yours.

Section 12
Tools and Supplies

In this section I would like to go over some tools and supplies you will need to get started assembling
wood golf clubs. You may already have some of these items lying around your house, so it shouldnt
hurt you to bad financially. The flip side is that you may have to purchase some of the necessities in
order to get started. After you become good at this you may want to visit some online golf supply
stores and upgrade on some tools and supplies to make life easier and become more precise with
measurements.

2-1: Organize your tools and supplies out on a workbench before you get started.

Lets start explaining each one and what role they play in assembling wood golf clubs.

16. The most used tool that you use will probably be the vise. This will hold many components
for you. Its a good idea to get rubber clamps so when holding components you do not scratch
or dent them.
17. The ruler is a good tool, as you will need this to take shaft measurements. Make sure its at
least 48 long.

18. You will need a micrometer to measure shaft, hosel, and grip diameters. This may be the
second most used tool that you use. You may have to purchase these and should only cost
around $20.00 to $60.00.
19. The file is another good tool to have. With this tool you will be filing the shafts after being cut.
You will also need a fine file to form your ferrule.
20. The plumbers tube cutter is a tool that you will use to cut steel shafts. If cutting graphite shafts
a hacksaw is the best tool.
21. A felt tip marker is a must for marking different components for measurements.
22. A drill and metal countersink tool is required for doing countersinking on the hosels of club
heads if dealing with graphite shafts.
23. 180 grit sandpaper is used to sand the ferrule to shape. This can also be used to score the end
of the steel shafts for better bonding with the epoxy.
24. There is a special tool included with this book, which is the grip installation tool. This tool will
make your life a lot easier when installing grips.
25. A utility knife comes in handy when scoring a graphite shaft for installation into a club head
hosel.
26. Masking tape is used to protect the shaft and hosel from scratches when working on the
ferrule. It can also be used to pad a grip to make it bigger.
27. Epoxy is a two-part chemical that creates a strong metal like adhesive to bond the shaft to the
hosel.
28. Acetone is used for many purposes. You can use this for clean up, and making your ferrule
shiny again after working it with the file and sandpaper. You can also use acetone for a
solvent when installing your grips.
29. Grip tape is used for grip installations. Also known as double-sided tape.
30. A paint pan is good for catching solvent when installing the grips. In most cases the solvent
can be reused for other grip installations.

You can go to any online golf retail supply store and look around for tools and supplies that would
make your life a lot easier.


Section 13
Wood Club Assembly

3-1: The first thing you will want to do
is to organize your tools and
components out on your workbench.
This will make it a lot easier to do your
assembling. Next, check your
components for any cosmetic or design
flaws.
NOTE: To measure the
specifications, refer to chapter X for
details.
3-2: It is a good idea to clean the hosel
bore before installing the shaft. You
can do this by using a drill bit the
same size as the hosel, with either
your hand or an electric drill. NOTE:
There is a shoulder or rim inside the
hosel about 1 down, do NOT drill
past this point.
3-3: If you are installing a graphite
shaft, check to see if the top of the
inside of the hosel bore is beveled. If it
is not, you will want to do this, as this
will allow epoxy to fill this area
creating a cushion to eliminate the
shafts tip from breaking at this point.

3-4: This picture shows how to bevel
the edge if it is not already. You can
use a drill and metal countersink tool,
usually 20
o
. You only need to do this
for a few seconds.
3-5: Temporarily install your shaft to
see if it fits properly. Be sure it goes
all the way to the bottom of the hosel
bore.
3-6: Check to see what type of hosel
the club head may have, a rounded
top, or square top. This will determine
if you need a ferrule installed. If the
top is rounded this indicates that a
ferrule is not required. If the top of the
hosel is square then a ferrule is
recommended. A ferrule does one of
two things, keeps dirt out of the hosel
and provides a smooth transition from
the hosel to the shaft.
Rounded
Top.
Squared Top.


3-7: If you would like to convert a
rounded top hosel to a squared top
hosel simply take a sanding belt and
grind no more than of the top to
make it square. Some of your
customers will like the classic look of
the ferrule.
3-8: You will want to measure the I.D.
of the hosel bore. You can do this by
using a micrometer and this is to
ensure the hosel bore is the same size
as the shaft you will be installing.
3-9: After tip trimming measure the
tip of the shaft to make sure it will fit
properly into the hosel.
For tip trimming instructions refer to
section 4 for details.

3-11: Once we find out the tip
trimming instructions we can go ahead
and trim the shaft. For graphite shafts
its a good idea to tape the section that
will be cut. This eliminates the fibers
from being splintered during the
cutting.
3-12: Measure up the shaft from the
tip and trim according to the
instructions.
3-13: The best devices to use are a
hacksaw blade or a cut off wheel
attached to a motor.



3-14: Now you want to take the shaft
and insert it into the hosel. Mark a line
right above the hosel. The area from
the mark to the tip will be the area that
will need abraded. This is done to
provide a good bonding area for the
epoxy.
3-15: For graphite shafts the easiest
tool for the job is a utility knife. Place
the knife horizontal to the shaft and
gently score down. Be careful not to
take off to much as you could damage
the fibers. You just want to take off
the finish.
3-16: For steel shafts you can use a
sanding belt.

NOTE: Do not use a belt sander on a graphite shaft, as you may end up sanding down to the fibers, which voids the manufacturers
warranty, and affects the integrity of the shafts strength.

Now lets move on to installing a ferrule.

3-17: Remember in picture 3-6 we
talked about how to determine if a
ferrule needs to be installed or not.
Refer to figure 3-6 for details. The
inside diameter of the ferrule should
be the same as the outside diameter as
the shafts tip you are installing.
3-18: If you recall in figures 3-3 and 3-
4 when we beveled the top of the
hosel, its also recommended that the
ferrule be of the same bevel, which is
usually 20
o
. If the ferrule does not
have a bevel follow the same steps in
figure 3-4 to obtain that bevel.
3-19: Install the ferrule up the shaft far
enough to allow the shaft to penetrate
all the way down to the bottom of the
hosel.
NOTE: Sometimes the ferrule is
stubborn when going over the shaft.
You can take some acetone on a
queue-tip and rub it on the inside of
the ferrule, and this will chemically
react to the plastic and provides a
lubricate.


Tip: If you have trouble getting your ferrule onto the shaft, then you may have to force it by using the club head itself. Simply put
the ferrule as far as it will go up onto the shaft then with a block of wood underneath the shaft; gently pound down until
the shaft reaches the bottom of the hosel. Then remove the club head to proceed to the next steps.
Tip: Special tools are available from the online golf stores that make ferrule installation a breeze. Do some looking around to see
what they have.

3-20: Some assemblers put a dimple
on the tip of a metal shaft where it will
go into the hosel. This allows the shaft
to fit snug inside the hosel and allow
for more open space for epoxy to fill.
3-21: If you are installing a leather
grip, you will need to put the grips
collar on before installing the ferrule.
Its much more easier getting the collar
over the tip and up to the butt end
then it is to go over the butt end.
3-22: After your ferrule is installed on
the shaft, now is the time to mix up
some epoxy. This will usually come in
two separate containers, which one is
a catalyst, and the other is a bonding
agent.

3-23: Mix the two-part epoxy together.
Be sure to mix evenly as this will
create a good evenly reaction resulting
in a better bond.
3-24: Take the tip of the shaft and stick
it in the epoxy. I like to go about a
up the shaft. Make sure you get a good
fair amount, as this needs to coat the
entire tip.
3-25: Work the shaft into the hosel
while spinning it to get a good even
coating around the entire abraded
area.



3-26: Wipe the excess epoxy from the
hosel and the ferrule. Now you need
to let the epoxy cure before
proceeding.
3-27: After the epoxy has cured, we
now need to reduce the diameter of
the ferrule to be even with the hosel. If
you notice in this figure, the ferrule is
slightly bigger then the hosel. This is
expected. NOTE: If your ferrule is
smaller than your hosel diameter
then you will have to get a bigger
ferrule.
3-28: To reduce the ferrule size, you
will need to put the shaft in a vise
while using a fine file to go around the
ferrule until it matches the diameter of
the hosel. See bottom of page for a tip!

TIP: Any time you put a club head or shaft into a vise, its recommended that you use a set of rubber clamps. If not you will take a
chance of denting or scratching the surfaces of the components. Also when filing or sanding your ferrule, wrap masking
tape around the hosel and shaft to prevent scratching either of the two.

3-29: When you are finished filing, it
will mostly likely have flat spots. You
can now take a piece of very fine grit
sandpaper (220 grit) and lightly sand
the flat spots away.
3-30: Take a piece of fine steel wool
(000) and take the scratches out that
were left from the filing and sanding.
This will smooth the ferrule back out.
3-31: Filing and sanding will make the
ferrule dull. This is expected.
At this point you can remove
the tape from the hosel and
shaft.

TIP!

Tip!
Use rubber
clamps when
using a vise
for club
components!
Tip!
Wrap masking
tape around both
the hosel and shaft
to prevent
scratching.


3-30: Now you will want to make that
dull ferrule look like new again. Take
a paper towel and dampen it with
acetone and wipe down the ferrule.
NOTE: Do not let the acetone touch
the hosel if it has a finish on it. Most
metal woods do not have a finish on
the hosels. Check with the
description that came along with the
club head to be sure.
3-31: Here is your finished ferrule
with a nice shine to it, but most
important it has the same outside
diameter (O.D.) as the hosel.
3-32: Now that we have prepared the
club head, assembled the shaft into the
hosel with epoxy, and finished
adjusting the ferrule, we can now
move on to the measuring and cutting
the club to the proper club length.
You can do this by simply placing a
ruler behind the club in its proper lie
position (sole is flat on the floor).

3-33: With a felt tip marker mark 1/8
below the desired length. Refer to
chapter X for tables on standard finish
club length. We want this club to be
38, so we will cut the club at 37 7/8
The grip cap will account for the
additional 1/8.
3-34: For steel shafts you can use a
tube cutter, which works excellent.

3-35: For graphite shafts follow the
directions as given in figures 3-11
through 3-13.
This picture shows a graphite shaft
getting cut using a hacksaw blade.
NOTE: Remember to tape the section
being cut.

Now on to Installing Grips!



3-36: What you want to do first is to
put the shaft in a vise (with rubber
clamp pads). Make sure the club head
is pointing up in a vertical direction.
3-37: Place the grip next to the shaft
remembering to keep in mind that the
grip should be placed with the grip
cap line at the very end of the shaft.
Do not place the grip so as the very
end is at the very end of the shaft.

3-38: Mark where the grip will begin.

3-36: Using double-sided grip tape,
you want to put the pieces horizontal
with the shaft.
NOTE: When laying out your tape
make sure to do two things, overlap
the tape past the butt end at least an
inch, and to place the pieces slightly
shorter then the grip mark.

3-37: Once the tape is applied, wrap
the ends that stick out past the butt
end, and tuck it into the shaft. This
does not allow solvent to enter the
shaft during installation.
3-38: Now you want to put your
finger over the grip end plugging the
hole.

Start of grip mark
End of shaft


3-39: Pour some solvent inside the
grip and then squeeze the opening of
the grip with your other hand and
shake. This coats the entire inside of
the grip with solvent.

3-40: Now pour the solvent from the
grip onto the tape. Be sure to get
every inch of the tape wet with
solvent. This will make for an easier
installation.
NOTE: You can recycle the grip that
you use to pour over the tape.
3-41: Take the grip tool provided with
this package and slip the grip onto the
fingers about 1 or so.

3-42: Take the tool and place it over
the butt end of the shaft and push on.

3-43: When the grip is 1/3 of the way
on, remove the tool and finish pushing
on the grip. Make sure it reaches the
end of the shaft.
NOTE: Make sure the start of the
grip is exactly on the line you marked
3-44: Place the club in its proper lie
position and align the grip with the
leading edge of the club head to the
proper marking on the grip. (Usually
the name or logo.)
NOTE: You can align the grip
around 3 or so minutes after
installing the grip. After that the
grip, solvent, and tape have reacted
and will now be permanent.

Allow the club to set overnight or 24 hours and you have just built your first
clubCONGRATULATIONS!!


Section 14
Tip Trimming Instructions

Lets go over the 3 different kinds of golf shafts that there are. This will give you a better
understanding of what you are doing when it comes to trimming the tip. The 3 types of shafts are
Parallel Tip Steel Shaft, Taper Tip Steel Shaft, and Graphite Shaft. For wood clubs you will
probably be dealing with graphite shafts for the most part.

4-1: This is a diagram of the two different steel golf shafts and their parts. You will notice that the tapered tip shaft differs from the
parallel tip shaft by; yep you guessed it, the tip and the tips diameter.

Parallel Tip Steel Shaft:
The parallel tip shaft has no diameter change from the tip to the first step. This allows the tip to be
trimmed for final club length, as the number of club gets shorter. The parallel tip shafts are a tad bit
lighter than tapered tip shafts and usually come in a .370 diameter tip.

Tapered Tip Steel Shaft:
The tapered tip golf shaft will usually get abraded and get installed directly into the club heads hosel
and then butt trimmed to length. The tip of the tapered shaft will usually come in a .355 diameter
size. The tapered tip shaft does however change size from the tip to the first step by usually 7
thousandths of an inch per inch up the tip end to the first step.

NOTE: All shafts come with easy to understand tip-trimming instructions.
Butt end of the shaft where the grip
gets installed. This is where the
butt end diameter gets measured.
Butt Diameter
Step Length
First Step
Parallel Tip Shaft.
No Tip Diameter Change
Tapered Tip Shaft.
Tip Diameter Change


Graphite Shaft:
Graphite shafts are easy to understand, as they will come with their own discrete trimming
instructions for the different club numbers and flexs. They also do not change diameter size by step
increments.

Here are a couple of tips to before getting started with the actual tip trimming instructions.

Always butt trim club to final length after you tip trim and install the club.
Tapered tip shafts never should be tip trimmed because they come in discrete lengths
according to the club number.

Lets move on to tip trimming a shaft. Lets say I have a 3 wood club head with a hosel bore ID of
.335. I should have a shaft with a .335 shaft tip. I have chosen a graphite shaft so I can show you
the tip trimming steps.

This is an example of what you may find on a dealers or manufacturers website on tip trimming instructions for
graphite shafts.
Notice that for a 3 wood you have to trim .5, 1.0, or 1.75 depending on the bore type. Notice that it comes in 3
different flexes which you will specify when ordering. Also notice it comes in two different tip diameters. With the
club heads hosel accepting a .335 shaft tip then this would be the one to order.
ProLaunch 65
Product Flex Tip Diam. Butt Diam. Length Tip Length Torque Weight Ball Flight

Parallel Woods - .335 tip R, S, X .335 .605 46.0 4.5 2.8 64 HIGH
Parallel Woods - .350 tip R, S, X .350 .600 46.0 4.5 2.8 64 HIGH

Woods Tip Trim Driver 3-Wood 4-Wood 5-Wood

Through Bore 0.0 0.5 0.75 1.0
Blind Bore 0.5 1.0 1.25 1.5
Standard Bore 1.25 1.75 2.0 2.25
4-3: Look at the trimming instructions that came with your golf shaft. You should see a tip trimming measurement
for the club your assembling.
Note: For explanations on the different bore styles refer to section 6.


NOTE: Each shaft will come with tip trimming instructions. Always remember that you can get the
information needed from the manufacturers website. Take a look, hop onto a known shaft
manufacturers website and find the tip trimming instructions for their shaft types. You should find
the tip trimming instructions under the technical area of the website.
Lets look at what we have so far. We now have a graphite shaft made for a 3 wood club head with a
.335 tip diameter. We also know that we have to tip trim 1.75 off the tip for a standard bore.

Lets move on to the actual tip trimming.

4-4: Once you have your tip trimming
instructions, measure up the shaft from the
tip (in this case its 1 3/4) and mark a line
4-5: Once you have the mark, go ahead
and cut the shaft using a plumbers pipe
cutter.
Note: When putting your components in
a vise its highly recommended that you
use rubber clamps. This will eliminate
any scratching or denting caused by the
metal jaws of the vise.
4-6: File any sharp edges that the tube
cutter left.

4-7: When measuring a graphite shaft,
measure up the shaft and wrap 2 layers of
masking tape around the area to be cut.
This will eliminate damage to the fibers
from the cutting process.
4-8: This is a picture of what damaged
fibers look like on a graphite shaft. This
voids the warranty and damages the
integrity of the shafts performance.
4-8: Use a hacksaw blade to cut through
the tape and then the graphite.


Lets talk about the flex of a golf shaft. There are five ratings for shaft flex:
6. Extra Stiff = X
7. Stiff = S
8. Regular = R
9. Senior = A
10. Ladies = L

The flex of a shaft can affect a couple of important things in the golf swing, accuracy, trajectory, and
distance.
When tip trimming your golf shafts keep in mind that if you mistakenly trim your shafts incorrectly it
will affect the shafts flex. For example lets say you are suppose to take 1 off the tip and you take 2
you have just changed your shafts flex to a stiffer flex. If you tip trim a tapered tip shaft, it may not
fit into the hosel therefore it will cause you to drill the bore out slightly bigger to accept the bigger
diameter of the shafts tip.

So tip trimming is important!

Always measure twice and cut once.

Always follow the suggested manufacturers instructions.

Hope this helps in the shaft tip trimming area.


Section 15
Measuring Loft & Lie

First lets talk about loft and how it pertains to the wood club head. The loft is responsible for the
trajectory of the golf ball as the club head strikes it. The trajectory is simply how high or low the golf
balls flight path is.

The most important thing to remember is that wood clubs are not measured the same as irons are.
Another key point to remember is that wood club head loft is measured the height distance of the
face. To measure the loft of a wood club head simply take the angle from the sole to the face less
ninety degrees. Figure 5-1 illustrates this.

5-1: This picture illustrates how to properly measure the loft of a wood
club head. The numeric formula would look like this, 110 90 = 10

Unfortunately is quite hard to measure loft with a common protractor. Although you can get close it
will most likely not be the exact measurement of loft. There are however special measuring tools that
can be bought for measuring loft and lie, and these may be expensive. I would suggest that you
assemble a few clubs before going out and purchasing one of these machines. The cost of these
machines can be from $150.00 to $800.00.
Sole Line
Ground Line
10
o

90
o
110
o


Lets measure a few clubs using a protractor.

5-2: Most protractors will have a hole in the center of the 90-
degree area on the bottom of the ruler part. Take this hole and
line it up with the middle of the hosel and shaft. This is a picture
of a driver with a manufacturers specification of 10.5 degrees.
5-3: As you can see we are very close to the manufacturers
specification by just using a protractor. Again this is not going to
be a exact measurement because of the variations of the sole line
and face bulge. But this will get you in the ballpark.

5-4: This picture takes a look at another club, a 3 wood with a
manufacturers loft specification of 15 degrees
5-5: Again we are very close to what the manufacturers
specification is, which is 15 degrees.

You will notice its very difficult to get an exact reading on loft with a protractor because of the face
bulge and sole radius.

Again this is not going to be an exact loft measurement but will get you in the ballpark. Go to the
online golf stores and price loft measuring machines once you are ready to take your skill to the next
level.

Now lets talk about lie and how it affects the wood golf club. Lie directly affects the golf balls
direction, as it is the horizontal position of the club head at impact. To understand this a little better
refer to figure 5-6.

5-6: This is a look at how the lie angle will affect the golf balls direction.

Lie is basically measured from the center of the shaft or hosel and the sole at the resting position. See
figure 5-7 for an illustrated example.

5-7: This picture shows how to actually measure the lie angle of a wood
golf club.
Sole / Ground Line
Lie
Angle

Again when using a protractor to measure certain specifications take in mind that it probably will not
be an exact measurement but rather to get you in the ball park. To use a protractor to measure lie
follow the directions below in the following figures.

5-8: Place the sole flat on the ground line while placing the
protractor in front of it with center hole on the heel portion of the
club head. Remember to place the hole where the hosel starts to
curve into the sole.
5-9: Take the measurement from the center of the hosel or shaft.
In the picture I am measuring a driver and the standard lie is 55
degrees. When measuring the driver, I came up with the same
measurement.

5-10: Here Im measuring the lie of a 3 wood in the same manner
as the driver.
5-11: The 3 wood has a standard lie of 56 degrees, which again I
came up with pretty much the same.

Here are some things that may affect the lie angle of a iron golf club, Shaft Flex, and Club Length.
You will read more about loft and lie in the 4
th
book, Quick Guide to Custom Golf Club Fitting,
but for now enjoy the rest of this book. Again this book is only intended to get you started quick and
with the fundamentals of assembling.

Section 16
Hosel Bore Type

There are 3 types of hosel bore lengths in wood club heads.
6. Standard Bore
6. Through Bore
6. Blind Bore

6-1: This illustration shows the three different bore types found in wood club head hosels.

The Through bore penetrates all the way to the bottom of the sole.
The Blind bore will usually stop about to from the bottom of the sole.
The Standard bore will usually stop about to 1 from the bottom of the sole.

These bore types are important to know before you tip trim your shaft, as they will directly affect the shafts flex.
You will notice when tip trimming your shaft that the directions will give you different lengths of tip to trim
depending on the bore type.

To measure the bore type is simple to do and understand. Take a look at figure 6-2 to get an idea of how to do
this.
Through Bore Blind Bore
Standard Bore


6-2: This picture illustrates how to measure the bore type.
Take the hosel length measurement and the depth of the hosel bore.
Then subtract the total length from the depth to get a remaining length.
If the remaining length is 0 then you have a through bore, if the
remaining length is to then you have a blind bore, and if the
remaining length is to 1 then you have a standard bore.

If you were to have a numeric formula it would look like this:
Total length = 4
Bore Depth = 3
Remaining Length =
4 3 =
I would categorize this bore type as being a Blind Bore.
Total Length
Bore Depth
Remaining
length

Section 17
Face Progression

Face progression on a wood club is basically the distance from the center of hosel to the most forward
point of the leading edge of the face. This characteristic has a small affect on two areas of the golf
swing at impact and those are trajectory and loft. Figure 7-1 shows a diagram of face progression.

7-1: Illustration of what face progression is.

An example of how face progression affects the trajectory is the timing in striking the golf ball. For
example if the face progression on one club were and another club has a face progression of ,
the ball would be struck sooner with the club. With face progression you have a downhill
affect on the loft and trajectory so to speak. The loft of a club is slightly changed at impact by the face
progression thus resulting in different trajectories of the ball flight. Figure 7-2 shows illustrations of
how face progression affects loft and trajectory.

The only club head characteristic that affects the face progression of a club head is the hosel boring.
Section 8 Hosel Boring goes into a little more detail on how this affects face progression.
Face
Progression


7-2: This illustration shows how face progression changes the flight path or trajectory of the
golf ball at impact.
1
Face
Progression
Higher
Trajectory

Face
Progression
Normal
Trajectory

Face
Progression
Lower
Trajectory

Section 18
Hosel Bore

The most important specification of wood club head manufacturing is the hosel bore as this
specification affects so many characteristics of the club head itself from face angle to face progression
and many others in between including loft and lie.

First lets talk about Face Angle and how hosel boring affects this specification:

8-1: This picture illustrates how hosel boring affects face angle.

As you will see there are 3 different face angle specifications for a wood club head.
Slice or Open Face
Straight or Square Face
Hook or Closed Face

You will be able to tell what type of face angle you have
just by simply placing the club in its proper lie position
making sure the sole of the club is flat on the ground.
See figure 8-2 for an example.

Open or Slice Face Angle
Intended
Target
Straight or Square Face Hooked or Closed Face Angle

8-2: This picture illustrates a 3-wood with a hook or
closed face angle.


The next thing that can be affected by the hosel boring is the lie angle. Lets recap back to section 1
How Wood Club Heads are Made. Remember discussing the investment casting process where the
wood club head is cast in two separate pieces, the hollow shell, and the soleplate. This is where the
hosel boring is determined. The hosel bore is determined by the angle of the hosel itself when cast.
Figure 8-3 shows a good representation.

8-3: This illustration shows the different lie angles that can be determined by the hosel angle.

NOTE: This particular characteristic or specification comes into play when custom fitting someone
for a set of clubs. To read more about this refer to the 4
th
book, Quick Guide to Custom Fitting and
Repair.
Normal Lie Angle Flat Lie Angle
Upright Lie Angle

Section 19
Reference Tables

Here are some reference tables that would include standard wood club lengths, loft angles, lie angles,
and links to some trimming instruction tables from leading sources of wood club graphite and steel
shaft manufacturer.

Mens Standard Wood Club Lengths:

Wood Club Number Mens Titanium Woods Mens Graphite Shafted Steel
Wood Club Heads
Mens Steel Shafted Steel
Wood Club Heads
1 45 44 43
3 44 43 42
5 43 42 41
7 42 41 40
9 41 40 40
9-1: Mens Standard wood club lengths.

Womens Standard Wood Club Lengths:

Wood Club Number Womens Titanium Woods Womens Graphite Shafted
Steel Wood Club Heads
Womens Steel Shafted Steel
Wood Club Heads
1 44 43 42
3 43 42 41
5 42 41 40
7 41 40 39
9 40 39 38
9-2: Womens Standard wood club lengths.

Mens & Womens Standard Wood Club Head Loft:

Wood Number Mens Standard Womens Standard
1 11 12
3 16 17
5 22 23
7 28 29
9 34 35
9-3: Mens and Womens Standard Wood Club Loft: Note: All lofts are measured in degrees.



Mens & Womens Standard Wood Club Lie Angle:

Wood Number Mens Standard Womens Standard
1 55 53
3 56 54
5 57 55
7 58 56
9 59 57
9-3: Mens and Womens Standard Wood Club Lie Angle: Note: All58 lie angles are measured in degrees.

For all tip-trimming instructions please go to the following websites for information regarding these
measurements. These websites will lead you directly to their shaft selection and tip trimming
instructions.

Grafalloy - http://www.grafalloy.com/grafalloy/trimming.asp
UST - http://www.ustgolfshaft.com/docs/Charts_TipTrimming_AllShafts.pdf
Aldila - http://www.aldila.com/tech2.html
Harrison - http://www.harrison.com/cutting.html

Section 20
Putter Assembly

Putter assembly can fall into two categories, over-hosel in which the hosel has a post sticking out of it,
or in-hosel assembly in which the hosel itself is bored like your iron club heads. Each one gets
assembled pretty much the same with the exception that the shaft will either fit into or go over the
hosel. We will be going over the in-hosel method in this book. Although they are very much alike,
there are some differences which I will explain as the need arises.
I would also like to say that putters are manufactured in the same way as iron club heads (investment
casting) are with the exception they can also be manufactured using the CNC milling process.

Putter assembly is the simplest form of club assembly as they are nowhere near as complicated as
irons or wood clubs. This book is relatively shorter because of this.

3-1: The first thing you want to do is
measure inside of the hosel to make sure it
will accept the shaft you will be installing.
The two sizes of hosel bores will usually
accept a .355 or .370 shaft. Designated
putter shafts are designed with a .355
shaft tip diameter.
3-2: Measure the shaft OD you will be
installing to make sure you ordered the
correct one.
NOTE: For putter specific shafts, there is
no tip trimming necessary.
3-3: Temporarily install the shaft into the
hosel and mark a line with a felt tip marker
right above the hosel. This indicates the
area to be abraded.
If you are installing an over the hosel putter then you may have to order a specific shaft that will
work. In order to do this measure the hosel post at the base (nearest the putter head) with a
micrometer or caliper. If your post is larger than .370 then you will have to do one of two things, do
some research in order to find the right shaft ID to serve your purpose, or try and sand down the post
enough to have the shaft fit over it.


3-4: Here is where you will abrade the tip
of the shaft to the mark that you marked
with a felt tip marker. You can do this by
using a coarse piece of sandpaper.
NOTE: When using a vise make sure to
use rubber clamps for the purpose of not
scratching the shaft.
3-5: You can also use a belt sander if you
are equipped with one.
3-6: After abrading the shafts tip it should
look like the above picture. This is done to
ensure a good coarse bonding area for the
epoxy to bond to.

3-7: Now on to the epoxy. Mix a small
amount of epoxy together.
NOTE: You will notice that a putter hosel
is not as deep as an iron or wood so the
amount of epoxy can be a little less.
3-8: If you have an in-hosel putter, put a
dap on the tip of the shaft..
NOTE: If dealing with a over-hosel
putter you will want to abrade the post
and then dip it into the epoxy.
3-9: Insert the shaft into the hosel of the
putter. If working with an over-hosel, then
slide the post of the hosel into the shaft.

NOTE: For over the hosel putter installations the
shaft may not fit all the way down to the hosel base.
This is where you may need to sand the post at the base
or purchase a trim ring to take up the space between
the hosel base and shafts tip.
Post
Tri
Over
th
Hos


3-10: After you installed the shaft (either
way, a over-hosel or in-hosel) you will
need to wipe any excess epoxy off the shaft
and putter head.
NOTE: Let the epoxy cure for 24 hours
before moving on to step 3-11.
3-11: Once the epoxy has had time to cure
you now must trim the putter to length.
For putters you need to put the ruler in
line with the shaft or hosel rather than the
heel portion of the club head. This will
give you a more accurate measurement.
3-12: Mark your final length with a felt tip
marker.

3-13: Take your pipe cutter and cut the
desired length.
3-14: File any sharp edges from the cutting
process. This is done so the grip will slide
on without catching any edges.
3-15: Place your grip next to the shaft in
the assumed installed position.



3-16: NOTE: Remember to place the grip
overlapping about a 1/8 over the end of
the shaft to take in account the end grip
cap.

3-17: To install the grip place the club in
the vise with the toe of the putter head
pointed upward in a vertical direction.
3-18: Apply the grip tape from the mark
that you made to the end of the shaft,
remembering to overlap the tape about .
Tuck the pieces of the tape inside the
shafts butt end to not allow water to get
inside the shaft.

3-19: Take the grip and put your finger
over the hole thats at the end of the shaft.

3-20: Pour your solvent inside the grip
while keeping your finger over the hole.
3-21: Take the open end of the grip and
pinch it together with your other hand.
Tip the grip upside down a few times to
get a good coating on the inside walls of
the grip.

NOTE: Its a good idea to take something like a paint tray and put it under the butt end of the shaft
to catch any spillage.

NOTE: Solvents for use in grips can come in many different materials from acetone to water. I like
to use water as it is not harmful and doesnt require ventilation. Remember when ordering your grip
tape to look at what type of solvent is used with it.


3-22: Pour the solvent thats inside the grip
over the tape thats on the shaft.

3-23: Take the grip installation tool and
slip the open end of the grip over the
fingers about an inch or so.
3-24: Slide the bigger end of the grip tool
over the butt end of the shaft about 2
inches or so.

3-25: Remove the tool from the grip and
continue pushing the grip over the tape to
the mark on the shaft.

3-26: Align the flat part of the grip to the
leading edge of the putter if your installing
a putter grip. If your installing a regular
grip, which some customers will prefer,
align the letters or logos with the leading
edge of the putter head.
3-27: Allow the grip to set for 24 hours and
you have just built a brand new putter.
CONGRATULATIONS!


Section 21
Putter Specifications, Facts, and Myths

Here are some putter specifications, Facts, and Myths:

Lie:

The lie on a putter is usually around 68 degrees to 78 degrees with an average of 72 degrees.
You can measure the putter lie the same way as indicated in the iron assembly book.

Length:

The most common putter lengths are usually 33 to 36 and this does not include todays belly
putters, which are custom fit to a persons height and other denominators.
Mens putters have an average overall length of around 34 to 35, while a womens average
length is 33 to 34.

Shaft:

The shafts preferred are of a stiffer origin and are usually sold a designated putter shafts.

Loft:

Putters do have a loft contrary to belief and they are usually from 2 degrees to 4 degrees. The
loft controls the amount of distance the ball will skid then come to a roll. If the putter had no
loft you would most likely squeeze the ball between the putter head and the ground causing a
bounce action, which then you would have no distance or directional control.


Putter Grip:

The most important aspect of the putter is the feel when swinging and this comes from the
grip. The flat spot on the putters grip is not only for alignment but to lock your fingers in
place to better square the club head at impact.

Swingweight:

Putters should also be swing weighted to match the set of irons and woods.

Congratulations! Your Finished

05 Step by Step Guide To Golf Club Assembly For The Absolute Beginner

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