raise engine to remove y-pipe ?

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raise engine to remove y-pipe ?
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05-02-2011, 04:51 PM #1 (permalink)
cohentl
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raise engine to remove y-pipe ?
I found the below while searching for instructions on removing the y-pipe to change the oil pan gasket on a 2001
Vulcan. Does the engine need to be raised per the Alldata instructions?
Vehicle: 2002 Ford Taurus V6-3.0L VIN U
Removing & Reinstalling the Dual converter Y-pipe (Haynes Repair
Manual)
Note: The exhaust headpipe on these cars is a welded assembly of two
catalytic converters and the headpipes for both banks of the engine.
The manufacturer calls it the dual converter Y-pipe, or simply the Y-
pipe. The Y-pipe assembly must be removed for other service work, such
as oil pan removal. Refer to Chapter 6 for more information about the
catalytic converters.
1. Raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands.
2. Disconnect the wiring connectors from the four exhaust oxygen (02)
sensors. 02 sensors are installed upstream and downstream from both
catalytic converters.
3. Remove the 02 sensors from the headpipes as follows to get the Y-
pipe assembly out of the car: (a) On a Vulcan V6 engine, remove the
upstream 02 sensors from each headpipe, just below each exhaust
manifold; the downstream sensors can stay in place. (b) On a Duratec
V6 engine, remove all four 02 sensors.
4. Remove the nuts that secure the front and rear headpipes to the
exhaust manifold studs.

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raise engine to remove y-pipe ? - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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5. Remove the nuts and bolts from the catalytic converter brackets at
the transaxle.
6. Remove the nuts and bolts at the flange connection of the Y-pipe
assembly to the exhaust system flex tube.
7. Remove the Y-pipe assembly from the car. You may want an assistant
to help you because the pipe assembly is heavy and awkward.
8. Install new gaskets at all exhaust system joints during
reinstallation. If the nuts and bolts are corroded, it's a good idea
to replace them also.
9. Install the rest of the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Start the engine, and check for exhaust leaks.
Service and Repair: Dual Converter Y-Pipe (Alldata)
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the bolts and engine roll restrictor.
3. Remove the bolt, ground strap, and nut.
4. Raise and support the vehicle.
5. Remove the splash shield and the air deflector.
6. Disconnect the Catalyst Monitor Sensor (CMS) electrical
connectors.
7. Remove the nuts securing the heat shield and position it out of the
way.
NOTE: Support the exhaust with mechanic's wire.
8. Remove the nuts and disconnect the three-way catalytic converter
from the dual converter y-pipe.
9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Remove the nuts and the bolt.
11. Using the special tools, raise the front of the engine.
12. Raise the vehicle.
13. Remove the bolt.
CAUTION: The sharp edges on the converter can cut the CV joint boot.
Make sure to protect the halfshaft boot with a suitable covering
before removing the converter assembly. Remove the dual Y-pipe
converter assembly.
14. Remove the gaskets and, if necessary, the Catalyst Monitor Sensors
(CMS); discard the gaskets.
Installation
1. Install the new gaskets and, if removed, install the Catalyst
Monitor Sensors (CMS).
2. Position the dual converter Y-pipe and loosely start the front nuts
and the rear bolt.
3. Tighten the bolt.
4. Lower the vehicle.
5. Tighten the nuts.
6. Lower the engine and remove the special tools.
7. Tighten the bolt.
8. Install the engine roll restrictor and tighten the bolts.
9. Position the heat shield. Install the ground strap and tighten the
bolt and nut.
10. Raise the vehicle.
11. Tighten the nuts.
12. Connect the three-way converter to the dual converter Y-pipe, and
tighten the nuts.
13. Connect the CMS electrical connectors.
14. Install the splash shield and the air deflector, and tighten the
screws.
15. Lower the vehicle.
16. Connect the battery cable.

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raise engine to remove y-pipe ? - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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05-02-2011, 05:31 PM #2 (permalink)
danhasenauer
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If the car is high enough, you shouldn't need to.
Check this out:
Thoughts On Y Pipe Removal From A Vetran
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Every option but the car phone
RI P 'Ol Blue - 09/ 2012

05-02-2011, 08:44 PM #3 (permalink)
rickpark
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You may not have to drop the Y-pipe.
This weekend I dropped the oil pan as part of the larger project of replacing the timing cover gasket. Member
00greenlx and I have been trading experiences (actually, he has come up with the majority of good tips) and he
mentioned that a subscription service he has had a pointer to removing the oil pan without dropping the Y-pipe.
What you have to do is drain the oil (duh), remove the 02 sensor on the Y-pipe leg closest to the pan.
Then remove all the pan bolts. The pan will drop down but can't be removed because the oil pump pickup is in a baffle
inside the oil pan.
However, when you have the pan resting on the Y-pipe as far as it will drop, look inside the driver side end. You will
see the oil pump body and one 13mm headed bolt that mounts it to the underside of the block.
Get a 3/8" 13mm socket and a universal joint. Work the socket on to the oil pump and loosen the bolt. You may have
to do what I do and use a breaker bar since leverage is limited by the u-joint and the angle you are working at.
However, it will break loose and then you can unscrew it for 1/2" or more. At that point, the pan will also drop down to
where it can be removed. Or, you can do what I do and unbolt the pump in which case everything will come out.
I will post pictures later this evening to show what you'll see.
My car is a California 2001 SES Vulcan. I'm not sure if the Y-pipe is different than non Californian cars.

05-02-2011, 10:12 PM #4 (permalink)
cohentl
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rickpark,
That's very interesting. I did a fair amount of searching earlier and this is the first I've seen that idea. My car is from
NY so it's probably that same as yours. I look forward to the pictures, as I plan on attempting this on Wednesday.

05-03-2011, 01:25 AM #5 (permalink)
rickpark
Senior Member

Member Number: 7669
Forgot to mention you also have to remove the starter
to have access to some of the oil pan bolts (you would have figured that out). There is also a stamped metal shield
that the starter pinion projects through that protects the flywheel, remove this as well (the starter bolts hold it at one
raise engine to remove y-pipe ? - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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end, there is a 13mm bolt that holds it to the transmission at the other end).
This is the O2 sensor that must be removed (you can dry to drop the pan without removing the O2 sensor. A club
member reports it was not necessary when he dropped the pan on his 2000 Vulcan. I found it gave me a little more
space to work.) :
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When you have removed the starter and shield and the O2 sensor, remove all the pan bolts. It will drop until it hits the
Y-pipe. You should then be able to move it around until you can see the oil pump body and the single bolt holding it
on from the transaxle end of the pan. This next picture shows how I maneuvered a 13mm socket with U-joint (3/8"
drive - 1/2" is too big, 1/4" may not give you enough leverage):
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raise engine to remove y-pipe ? - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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Loosen the oil pump bolt until you can free the pan - or just do as I did and remove the bolt completely which allows
the pump to drop to the bottom of the pan. It is easily reinstalled when you put the pan back. It also makes it easier
to apply the gasket to the block with weatherstrip adhesive and/or silicone. This picture shows how much of the bolt
needs to be unscrewed and how the pump will then drop. This was taken after I removed the pan and before
reinstalling - I just wanted to make sure there would be no problem putting it back in. This picture was actually taken
as I was getting ready to put the pump and pan back on as you can tell by the new gasket.
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Here is the underside of the block after the pan removal. As you can see, the Y-pipe is still in place. To the left, you
raise engine to remove y-pipe ? - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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can see where the oil pump mounts and the two guide pins. When reinstalling the pump, you may need to turn the
hex-sided shaft and make sure it engages the drive gear when you insert it through the hole that is just above the
upper guide pin in this picture. You won't be able to get it to fully engage the guide pins otherwise.
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This is the oil pump and the old gasket. The long black thing is the drive shaft which is hex-sided - like an Allen key:
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This is how the oil pump is positioned relative to the pan and why you need to loosen it as the circular end of the pick-
up tube is constrained by that narrow channel. When you get ready to install the pan (after putting on your new gasket
and/or sealant), you will need to put it thusly in the pan, raise the combo to the block and insert the pump drive shaft
back from where it was removed. You can then start the bolt and while holding the pump against the block, tighten it.
Make sure the guide pins are fully seated as this confirms that the drive shaft is properly in place.
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It was really a lot easier than this sounds - rest assured it can be done!
Last edited by rickpark; 05-21-2011 at 11:55 PM. Reason: Removing O2 sensor may not be necessary

05-03-2011, 10:37 AM #6 (permalink)
sheila
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^ I vote to sticky this!

05-03-2011, 10:50 AM #7 (permalink)
SoNic67
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Nice, I didn't think that will be enough space for the socket and U-Joint!
One you have the oil pump down, I would replace the whole assy, or at least the pick-up screen and shaft. That shaft
goes in the syncronizer (above).
Last edited by SoNic67; 05-03-2011 at 11:53 AM.
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05-03-2011, 11:16 AM #8 (permalink)
rickpark
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Yes, I think that would be a good idea if you are
going through the trouble.
Although now, if I have problems with the pump, it won't be an ordeal to drop the pan to replace it - probably an
hour's work.
Good point about why you need to replace the camshaft synchro at the first sign of squeaking - lose the synchro and
you probably will lose oil pressure.

06-04-2011, 01:26 PM #9 (permalink)
xFarSidex
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I don't know whether the 2004 Vulcan engine is different in some way because I managed to get enough space to get
the oil pump out but there seems to be a shield of some sort up inside covering the crank that is blocking the pan
from fully dropping.
Maybe I am doing something wrong I dunno.
I'll see if I can get a pictures so this may make more sense.
Heres the picture.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...10604-1433.jpg
Last edited by xFarSidex; 06-04-2011 at 01:38 PM. Reason: picture

06-04-2011, 02:00 PM #10 (permalink)
Bigdogg2830
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looks like they added a part to the vulcan.

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